Scan Magazine | Special Theme | A Taste of Denmark
Traditional Danish food at its best
By Louise Older Steffensen Photos: Bardur Mikladal
The town of Gilleleje has been a favourite holiday destination for stressed-out Danes for decades. The old fishing village at Sealand’s northern tip has retained the charms of its past, but the town’s beaches, bustling harbour and ample independent shops and restaurants make it a lively and dynamic spot today. One of the true mainstays of Gilleleje, however, is the harbour-side restaurant Brasseriet, which has served up delicious Danish classics to hungry Gillelejan souls for the past 40 years. Chef Berit Bjørnestad took over Brasseriet in 2017, having previously run two restaurants in neighbouring towns. “We haven’t changed the menu too much,” she says. “We serve up classic dishes like plaice and no less than eight types of tartar – it’s what Brasseriet has always done best, and those traditional favourites have an important place in modern Danish culinary culture too.” The evening menu is small and exquisite, with four mains options and a special, often based on the local fishermen’s catches. The extensive lunch menu, meanwhile, shows off the Danish institution of smørrebrød: imagine a plethora of open sandwiches consisting of hot or cold fish or meat, such as herring, paté or roast beef, paired with a
canonical set of toppings and condiments for each type of sandwich. The smørrebrød prepation is undertaken by Jytte Støvlbæk, an undisputed expert with 50 years of experience at Denmark’s best smørrebrød restaurants, whom Bjørnestad was lucky enough to get on board. Together, they are a jolly, unstoppable force in the kitchen. “I feel like I’ve come home,” Bjørnestad says. Born and bred in Gilleleje, she remembers the restaurant from her childhood. “I actually worked here 20 years ago, back when it was Restaurant Karan og Marie and I was newly trained,” she recalls. “The restaurant may have received an update, but we retain its commitment to honest, wholesome food and hospitality.”
Where the Danes go to eat
68 | Issue 116 | September 2018
Web: www.brasseriet-gilleleje.dk Facebook: brasserietgillelejehavn Instagram: @brasseriet3250
By Josefine Older Steffensen | Photos: Cafe Lindevang
For a true culinary experience of Denmark, the classics have to be tried; everything from an open sandwich to a traditional pork or beef dinner. And there is no better place to try these than in Café Lindevang, a restaurant that has been serving the classics since 1938. Copenhagen has over the years become a culinary capital, but getting a taste of the traditional Danish dishes can actually sometimes be a bit difficult in the nation’s capital. So, at a place like Café Lindevang, there is good reason why 80 per cent of the diners are regulars; people just love this kind of food. “We took over the running of the restaurant in 2007, and one thing was clear to us − we weren’t going to change anything. Of course, some things have modernised over the years, but deep down we’re making the kinds of dishes that our grandparents would have made for us. It’s homely, comforting food,” explains Carsten Jensen, co-owner of Café Lindevang. Café Lindevang is a little snapshot of Danish culture, where a herring platter
Berit and Jytte.
served with snaps and beer is a must-try, or maybe an open sandwich with roast beef or breaded plaice for lunch. For dinner, there are even more classics to be had, with most traditional dishes having some kind of meat, potato and pickled cucumber or red cabbage. Simple and absolutely delicious. If you are looking for a true taste of the Danish classics, then Café Lindevang is worth a visit, not only for the food, but also the relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. Bus: 9A from the city centre. Bus stop: Folkets Allé (Peter Bangs vej) Open: Mon-Sat Lunch: 11.30am-3.30pm Dinner: 4.30pm-9pm Web: www.cafelindevang.dk