Discover Germany, Issue 29, August 2015

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Discover Germany | Focus on | Fine Jewellery

Unique jewellery with organic forms and a personal touch – literally! Sabine Müller lives and works in the Harz Mountains creating unique gold and silver pieces – all of them handmade and available as a single copy, “I work with organic forms,” she says. And so one of her designs, called ‘Becherlinge’, has a matching counterpart in nature: a fungus growing in the autumn woods. TEXT: JESSICA HOLZHAUSEN | PHOTOS: SABINE MÜLLER

Sabine Müller’s 'Becherlinge' are miniature cup shaped forms she attaches to rings and bracelets, their surface looks soft, like the pieces have grown naturally instead of being cast. Indeed a Becherling is a species of fungus with various sub types like the common brown cup or the violet fairy cup.They display stunning colours, especially on the inside. Born in 1963 Müller became a goldsmith’s apprentice in 1979 and started working as goldsmith soon after finishing her training. From 1984 to 1990 she studied art and design in Halle to enhance her knowledge and craft. Since 1990 the current mother of three has

worked as a freelance artist. Every piece is unique:“I first mould it in wax and afterwards cast it in silver or gold,” explains Müller.“Since I modulate the form with my bare fingers my fingerprints are left

in the wax, when the Becherling is finished they form a rough structure on its back side.”Müller does every step herself, from modulating to casting, from polishing to colour application and setting of gems or pearls. Another aspect that makes her work special is the use of plastic. “It is a transparent material letting the polished surface shine through,”says Müller.“With this technique I create a shining point of light while the colour has different brightness levels. This gives the jewellery a very lively impression.” www.sabine-mueller.com

Below: Drop earrings 'Schneebecherlinge', cast in silver and blackened it has a red acrylic layer inside (left) and cast in silver and golden plated, green acrylic inlay (right).

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