Jazmayne Chatman I am here to fulfill the demand of the highest quality hair products and superior customer service, we at The Chatman Brand offers premium hair extensions for customers who demand only the best.
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Install/ Customization Tools & Materials Tweezers Flash Lift Bleach / oil based developer Lace tint or RIT Dye Bold Hold Lace Tape, Glue and skin Protectant. Or GhostBond Wooden applicator sticks Got 2 Be Invisible Spiking Glue (Gel) Got 2 Be Freeze spray 99% alcohol Scissors Thread Curved Needles Mesh Wig Cap (SkinToned) T pins Duck bill clips Tripod Canvas head
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Naturalism: Hairline Customization Bleach Knots: This is optional, but recommended for the most natural look. I sometimes add violet or ash Based blonde to my bleach. Or you can use highlift hair color to minimize brassy roots.
Tweeze / Pluck Hairline Spray base with water to loosen up. Be mindful not to tear the lace . You Don’t want to go too close to the root. Using the tweezers begin plucking the hairline in a inconsistent v- pattern. Keep in mind the human hairline is not uniformed. There is a substantial amount of natural thinning. I like to pluck 2 to 3 inches behind the hairline. This is based on the desired fullness and density. Began tweezing from middle to side. I like to keep the hair plucked from each side separate, to ensure an even amount was removed. Push or pull hair up on each side and pluck down. If Hair is placed in a loose side pony you can see how thick or thin you would like the hairline to be. The thinner the hairline is the more natural it appears. Placed unit on client or self to check hairline/density
To mimic a natural hairline I make the temple areas much thinner. Less is more in this process.
Cutting The Lace Brush hair away from the lace. Use duckbill clips to secure. Cut lace ½ centimeter away from baby hairs in desired pattern to match hairline. Near the ears, part away the excess lace and unwanted hair. Cut a way to fit around the ears and sides.
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Sewing Elastic Band Use second ear to ear measurement, And take away 2 ½ to 3 inches for the elastic band measurement. Usually 7 to 9 inches based on head size. Begin sewing the band a half inch away from the hairline ,1 to 2 inches above the ears in a downward motion. Repeat on the other side. I Recommend that you use clear thread to minimize the appearance of the stitching. Double sew across the top of the Elastic band to ensure security. Put the unit on your client or yourself to see if the band fits. Fitting “Too Tight” Can create headaches. But overtime the strap will loosen from wearing.
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Sew Clips: Sew your combs or clips above the elastic band on each side at an angle. You can sew your last two clips on the 3rd to 4th track from the bottom. Or upside down at the nape. Use your judgment where the clients hair is healthiest and can withstand tension.
Lace Application with Glue Cornrow the hair in a straight back braid pattern Use alcohol and cotton swab to cleanse away oils for a better hold Apply mesh skin tone wig cap to head over the ears and up to eyebrows. Apply a very small amount of clear got 2 be glued gel and spray for a firm hold Use cool air until dry Cut access cap and add products to lay the frayed edges of the cap. Let dry Use alcohol swap again on skin and let dry Apply skin Protectant And allow skin to drive for 45 minutes Place wig / frontal on head in desired position. Make sure it’s aligned with the both sides for coverage. Use a comb and duckbill Clips to pull Hair on wig away from the hairline. Fold lace back slightly. Use wooden stick to apply glue placing small dots on the skin right at the wig cap line. Start applying glue from the middle of head stopping at the temple. www.thechatmanbrand.com
A. Apply directly under the cap. B. Move in one direction at a time C. Apply a heavier coat around the ear-lines. Smooth out the glue and let air dry or use blow dryer on cool until the glue is clear and tacky or for 8 to 10 minutes. Place place in desired position Use a tool to press lace into skin * Use comb or lace front brush to press edge of Lace into skin for a great melt
Wig Making Tools and materials Mannequin Head For building and styling Base/ tripod Required for support and to minimize movement Measuring Tape Allows you to customize the size to fit the client head shape and hairline Scissors (not shears) For cutting weft and thread Curved Needles To minimize or help avoid sewing unit to the cloth base or from puncturing client scalp during Extension services
Nylon Thread Wax cold it nylon thread is preferred for the wefts to withstand tension and promote longevity Combs/ Clips Gives clients the option of removing the unit daily, while creating security during wear Elastic band Extra security at the Nape /bottom of the unit Human Hair Wig, Bundles & frontal or closure My personal preference is virgin Indian hair with cuticles aligned in the same direction
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Sizing / Measurements In order to have a precise fit. Do you want to measure the size of the head unit is being creative for, along with the size of the manikin head. You will need a pen and paper handy or you can use your phone to text measurements to yourself and the client. This way you can have them documented. How to measure: Front of head to nape: Slightly in front of the hairline down the middle to the neck. Ear to ear: Measure across the top Like a headband landing behind the top of each ear. Ear to ear (2): From the back of the ear along the nape, connecting to the other side Circumference: Play state in the center of the forehead and a line behind the ears, around the neck And back to the middle of the forehead. Sizing Closure wig Base: A mesh weaving or wig cap is used for this process. They come in small medium and large, and May need additional stitching prior to wig creation. Once the base is placed on the mannequin, use tape to measure the existing size and shape. Starting below the crown, fold Wig bass down the backside to fit client head shape. Use T pins to secure hold until stitched. Do not sew above the crown. So folds down prior to stitching tracks to keep your custom size and shape. The bottom flap on a mesh with Creates coverage in the Nape area. I recommend that it be removed for clients who’s head is round or on the smaller side.
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Closure Wigs 101 Sizing Closure wig Base: A mesh weaving or wig cap is used for this process. They come in small medium and large, and May need additional stitching prior to wig creation. Once the base is placed on the mannequin, use tape to measure the existing size and shape. Starting below the crown, fold Wig bass down the backside to fit client head shape. Use T pins to secure hold until stitched. Do not sew above the crown. So folds down prior to stitching tracks to keep your custom size and shape. Hi end custom wigs Are usually handmade with quality Indian hair. The wefts are sometimes thinner and easier to fold. I use the folding method for several reasons: Minimize shedding Easy take down when client wants a new style Easy flow while stitching. Minimizes pieces of thread used. This will allow the unit to last longer without the stitches coming apart.
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Sewing The Unit Box stitching creates a saddle or a seat for the track to rest in. This will prevent the thread from breaking when there is tension from a tangle or pulling on the hair. Lay the first track along the nape area. When at the fold, push needle through the track and double loop to help the folded track late extra flat. Sew tracks in a semi U-shape Until you are halfway through the unit. Do you not fold tracks once you get to the first track above the ears. I recommend that you cut track moving forward unless you have mastered the flat/ fold technique. When you begin to sell the tracks around the hairline of a closure unit, you want to lay your track with a slight curve on both ends. Use T- pins To place and secure tracks before you Begin sewing. Think of a slight/semi hook. Continue this method until you reach the temples. Closure Placement: Please closure at the top of unit in it’s desired spot in the middle or on the side. Measure the width and length of the closure base. Cut a U-shaped out of the mess base ½ inch smaller than the closure measurements. Fold mesh flaps and Pin Wig base down. The objective is to mimic the shape of the closure you have. * Remember that closure sizes vary from vendors so never cut the shape without measuring first.
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Stitch closure opening prior to closure application. Please closure slightly above Wig base line 3/4”. The clothes you should be stitched in two places for flatness and security. Inside and along the perimeter. Sew the Closure Front Front to the middle halfway and stop. then repeat process on the other side. Do the same process on the edge of the closure. Use tension with the thread to help take on the shape of the manikin head (slightly rounded) What’s the closure is flat and secure. Complete unit by sewing the last few tracks with the same method previously described. Interior work: Sew elastic band and clips in desired position. Wash and condition unit. For Extra flatness you can mold the wet hair backwards with hair off the face and let air or under heat. If you don’t have time to wet set, Yes pressing comb or flat iron to redirect. Cut and style as desired
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