Magister Navis International Edition Issue 01

Get inspired. Sail more.

M A G A Z I N E

WHERE PHOTOGRAPHY AND SAILING CO-EXIST

THE OTHER GARDEN OF EDEN IN SOUTH CORSICA

FILICUDI WILDLIFE CONSERVATION ASSOCIATION

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I S S U E

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MY CULINARY ITINERARY ACROSS IONIAN GREECE

Ten de r to

ATHENIAN YACHTS

40 Years of experience in Yacht Sales, Charters and Management athenian-yachts.gr

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BALI C ATA M A R A N S

Hello fellow sailors, an

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Sailing has been an integral part of my life since I was born. I grew up in Sardinia, where breathing in clean sea air loaded with the scents of marine life was my personal childhood luxury. Going back to the sea and those scents, whether in Sardinia, somewhere in the Saronic Gulf or by the crystal waters of the British Virgin Island is a bit like breathing for me, an essential need.

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While we are all rooting for normality to be back, we don’t know how long it will take before we will be able to say that the pandemic is behind us. What we do know is that sailing is our evergreen passion.

That is why we want to continue dreaming about sailing, being inspired about what we love, keep wandering with our minds around Corsica, the Caribbean, Croatia and many more mesmerizing sailing destinations.

This magazine wants to inspire first and foremost a generation of sailors and sea lovers to think of a world after Covid. We’ve talked to our most trusted community of friends: we’ve met skippers and hostesses who’ve made boats their daily office desk, interviewed fully licensed sailors such as Omero Moretti and learnt a few mis-understood knots, learnt from Andrea how the world of photography can weave into the one of sailing. Sailing is so much more than just sailing. Packed with maritime lifestyle and sailing tips, culinary itineraries and personal encounters, you’ll love to flick through our new digital magazine: Magister Navis. The choice of making it digital was taken willfully: we wanted to make sure this could be a fully sustainable resource, ultimately preserving what we care about the most: our seas.

I hope you enjoy the read!

Best, Manlio Accardo

ISSUE NO.1

LIFESTYLE 08

The Filicudi Wildlife Conservation Project

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My culinary itinerary across Ionian Greece

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Bruschettas the Sardinian way

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The other garden of Eden in South Corsica

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Mojito - El clĂĄsico del Caribe!

STORIES AT SEA 36

Where photography and sailing co-exist

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Ahoy, join the crew!

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Sailing in Pandemic Times in Croatia

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Mesmerizing Saronic Gulf

PRO 16

Life Onboard

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Mis-understood nautical knots

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Sailing at 360°

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From the mountains to the sea

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Saint Vincent and the Grenadines

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Canary Islands - a sailing paradise for the whole year

yacht charter | management | sales

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YACHTS

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BASES

LAVRION | PREVEZA | ALIMOS | ZEA

See you in Greece!

Legal notice: Editors: Paola Di Pietro, Peter KollmannJehle & Theresa Drossel Project Manager: Paola Di Pietro Art Director & Designer: David Dooley (Yo Kyoto! Studio), Yasemin Yavuzbaş Sales: Larin Heero, Nicola Pinna Nossai Image Sourcing: Paola Di Pietro, Yasemin Yavuzbaş, Peter Kollmann-Jehle & David Dooley Image Sources: shinesty.com, shutterstock. com, Sailogy S.A., Master Yachting GmbH, untersegeln.eu, Restaurant Zí Anto, Filicudi Wildlife Conservation, Niki Christidi Roemmer, Omero Moretti ©2020 Sailogy S.A.

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SEA PROTECTION

IN SICILY FILICUDI WILDLIFE CONSERVATION ASSOCIATION

For years the Filicudi WildLife Conservation Association has been involved in research applied to the conservation of cetaceans and sea turtles in the Aeolian Archipelago.

A lot of the work is the outcome of the incredible collaboration with public and private research institutions and many Italian universities.

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he activities related to cetaceans are mainly concentrated on two species of dolphins that live in the Aeolian coastal environment: the bottlenose dolphin (Tursiops truncatus) and the striped dolphin (Stenella Coeruleoalba). The Association also studies sperm whales (Physeter macrocephalus), the largest among the odontocetes using the technique of photo identification and bioacoustics.

The bottlenose dolphin (Tursiops truncatus) is undoubtedly the best known among all the odontocetes present in the Mediterranean Sea. The populations of bottlenose dolphins living in coastal waters are subject to various human threats such as a direct competition with artisanal fishing activities, bycatch (accidental entrapment) in fishing gear and the lack of food due to overexploitation of fish resources. Although it is really difficult to quantify the actual impact of these threats, the sum of these impacts is leading to a net decline in dolphin population on a local scale.

Some locations are particularly strategic for the feeding of this species and they could be included in the future planning and management of the protected marine area of the Aeolian Archipelago. A thorough piece of research involving the definition of the behavioral ecology of the species is currently underway.

Marine Turtles

The Filicudi WildLife Conservation Association also coordinates a conservation project on the common sea turtle Caretta Caretta.

The Aeolian habitat is particularly favorable for the feeding and wintering activities of this species despite the fact that breeding sites are not present in this area without sandy beaches. The Caretta Caretta is a sea turtle that is widely present in the seas of temperate zones and in the tropical and subtropical seas of the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian oceans. After the first vital phase when the younger turtles tend to simply get dragged by the sea currents, the specimens of Caretta Caretta tend to frequent deeper waters and prefer to feed with algae. It is precisely in this phase of the life cycle that turtles may encounter greater threats such as the accidental capture in fishing nets and other fishing materials.

T H E F I L I C U D I W I L D L I F E C O N S E R VAT I O N P R O J E C T

Interviewing Chiara Bruno - researcher and co-founder at the Filicudi Wildlife Conservation Association e meet Chiara, a researcher who has been working for the Filicudi Wildlife Conservation Association for several years. She’s obtained a bachelor degree in Marine Biology and Ecology at the University of Messina with a thesis on the reproductive parameters of bottlenose dolphins in the Aeolian Islands.

What led you to found this Association?

I think back to when as a child my grandfather took me to Filicudi on summer vacation for the first time. I used to grab lobsters by their antennae and then gently place them back down; whilst swimming in front of the pier I would contemplate octopuses, scorpion fishes, mullets and local crabs; I would see huge amberjacks, groupers, tuna, manta rays, dolphins, whales.

‘‘My immense love for the sea and my desire to preserve it has been my personal drive to devote myself fully to scientific research’’ This sea habitat is slowly disappearing. My immense love for the sea and my desire to preserve it has been my personal drive to devote myself fully to scientific research. That is why I decided to undertake my Master in Animal Biodiversity Conservation project right here, studying the population of bottlenose dolphins, coastal dolphins living in the waters of the Aeolian Archipelago. Now this species is near extinction here in the Aeolian Islands. Driven by love for this place and its wonderful habitat, in 2004 I decided to found the Association. I also started to catch sight of specimens of sea turtles, sadly sometimes in poor health conditions. In

2010 I was authorized by the Ministry of the Environment to start our First Aid for Marine Turtles project.

What results have you achieved so far?

Over these years, we have been able to seal numerous scientific collaborations across multiple research projects both on dolphins and sea turtles. We’ve also increased the awareness of the scientific projects we carry out in the Archipelago. An experimentation project, funded by Blue Marine Foundation and SeaWorld & Busch Gardens Conservation Fund kicked off in 2017 to address the dolphin-fishing problem in the Aeolian Islands.

Another great milestone for us has been the TartaNet project: from the collaboration between the Aeolian Island Preservation Fund and the Blue Marine Foundation in 2019, this project focuses on the rescue of the Caretta caretta species in the Aeolian Archipelago.

Ongoingly, we do our best to rescue all animals in danger which get reported regularly by boats. Alongside the TartaNet project, we’ve recently launched the TartaNest project which is aimed at creating a monitoring network of Caretta caretta nest traces in the sandy beaches of the islands of Lipari, Stromboli and Vulcano. Thanks to our collaboration with the Island of Lipari, we were able, this year alone, to fence the cave of the Sea Ox and Horse with ecological buoys, a big step forward to protect the variety and wealth of the seabed in this area of the Mediterranean.

One of our objectives is also to set the foundations for a designated marine area to protect all autochthonous species, from bacterial to top predators, in the hope of retaining everything I saw in my childhood and that led me to love the sea so much.

M A G I S T E R N AV I S - I S S U E N O . 1

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T H E F I L I C U D I W I L D L I F E C O N S E R VAT I O N P R O J E C T

From your experience, do you think that the sensitivity to safeguard the Aeolian habitat has been gradually changed over the years?

We have started several courses in marine and terrestrial biology, as well as distance learning on environmental education, like the project called At school with nature (A Scuola con La Natura), working with schools on the Aeolian Islands. We find that the children who visit the islands, whether islanders or tourists, are very curious, aware and sensitive to environment-related problems.

On top of that many of the local fishermen are aware of the depletion of fish resources and are willing to change their traditional ways of fishing.

LifeDelfi project that will be discussed later.

The lack of listening in the scream that this sea makes in asking for help is not understood by the large commercial fishing of non-local fishermen and those who, without giving breath, use prohibited fishing gear but continue to be wandering around the sea, killing myriads of species. The attitude of those who travel greatly affects the environment, in terms of waste production, water consumption and resource consumption.

What can tourists practically do to safeguard the Aeolian ecosystem?

Our advice is to choose associations that preach sustainable tourism or to take you on natural excursions by boat. Make sure you bring your snorkeling mask to help you enjoy the landscape that lies under the sea even more.

‘‘The goal is that this experience remains a positive memory and is the result of curiosity and knowledge.’’

Our Association offers tourists an authentic experience that can convey our immense love for each island in the Archipelago and we take time to explain both geology, flora and fauna, even terrestrial, local traditions and the importance that each organism has in that blue dimension and that a tourist would not grasp alone.

The goal is that this experience remains a positive memory and is the result of curiosity and knowledge.

Can you spare a few words on the latest #LifeDelfi project the Association has been involved with??

LifeDelfi is a project funded by the European Commission through the LIFE program, with the aim of reducing interactions between dolphins, mainly of the species Tursiops truncatus, and professional fishing activities. These interactions are an environmental risk because dolphins often get caught in fishing nets as they try to feed themselves, with the risk of getting seriously injured. Life Delphi focuses on the protection of the coastal dolphin (Tursiops truncatus), through concrete actions with the involvement of fishermen such as the

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use of acoustic and visual mitigation tools and alternative and eco-sustainable tools, experimenting integrated solutions to reduce the conflict between fishermen and these marine mammals. One of the preliminary steps is to create an understanding with the fisherman, chatting with them about the problems encountered by this ongoing conflict with dolphins.

Your research projects, past and present, are in fact numerous. How are your research activities funded?

We collect funds in two ways, via our research fields and via our summer tourism activities. The research camps are designed primarily for young university graduates but are open to all sea lovers. For a week our volunteers take part in dolphin and turtle monitoring activities, help us collecting data and cataloguing them, managing environmental education activities for tourists. The other way we finance our research activities is through tourism.

During the summer, we organize boat trips, guided snorkeling with marine biology lessons and guided trekking on the paths of the island.

You can also help with the Association’s mission in practical terms. When you spot a cetacean or sea turtle while visiting the Archipelago by boat you can contact the Association on the number +39 349 4402021 this will help with the work they’re doing with the monitoring and preservation of the Aeolian ecosystem.

To find out more about the Filicudi Wildlife Conservation Association you can visit their website here. You can also start following all the projects they are running on the Filicudi Wildlife Conservation Association Facebook page or the Instagram page.

Fancy sailing in the Aeolian Islands? Find your ideal boat here! https://www.sailogy.com/en/ boat-rental/rent-a-boat-inaeolian-islands-211

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S E A P ROT EC T ION I N S IC I LY

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LIFE ONBOARD Working as a hostess.

Working as a skipper.

Meet Abrye from Florida and Tony from the UK. Both quit their office jobs to start a career onboard. Let’s find out more about their passions and what led them to choose this career.

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LIFE ONBOARD

Abrye Redeker is from Florida, US and has left her corporate lifestyle to work as a hostess and travel the world from aboard. She’s been working as a hostess since 2018.

‘‘My favourite sailing destination is the British Virgin Islands. The water there is just so crystal blue, you see all sorts of wildlife, you see sea turtles almost every time you go snorkeling…‘‘ Fancy learning what being a hostess is all about? Follow Abrye’s travels on @Breezygene on Instagram.

Tony, from the UK, quit his office job to become a professional skipper. He has worked as a Quarterdeck skipper for the last 5 years.

‘‘I was working in an office and I was very bored, all day indoors, so I decided to quit my job and make my living as a professional skipper. No sooner said than done! And now I’m on the road, The next place I would like to visit is Sardinia...‘‘ Interested in Tony’s whereabouts? Follow Tony @anthonymorgan93 on Instagram

If you are thinking about becoming a skipper or host/hostess and want to learn more about this world, you can learn more on www.quarterdeck.co 17

My Culinary Itinerary Across Ionian Greece Cooking has turned into a passion only when I started working on boats. Basically I never really liked cooking offboard. Still today my boyfriend

Niki Christidi Roemmer

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does most of the cooking at home. I guess it’s just way more fun to cook for clients that are enthusiastic and excited to taste your local cuisine.

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I

learned all the basic Greek recipes from my mother and added some extra spices and personal flair, what I’d call the ‘Niki style’ to all of my culinary creations to shape a meal that can work onboard. What I love cooking the most is “Gemista”, stuffed vegetables. The taste is delicious and it is just so colorful. The lack of time, space and kitchen utensils means that I have to learn to be even more creative onboard.

I’ll take you on one of my recent journeys across the Ionian Sea. This itinerary will see a crew of 7, a family from Switzerland of five, the skipper and myself.

Our itinerary is mostly a combination of what our clients wish to see together with our recommendations and of course the weather forecast for the days ahead. Overall our sailing conditions predict a smooth, beautiful and sunny sail and fair wind ideal to sail in the early afternoons.

Saturday

Route: Lefkas Marina, Vathy, Meganisi After leaving Lefkas Marina, we set sail to explore the bays around beautiful Vathy. After a mid-afternoon break with local fresh season fruits, we treat ourselves with a stop at one of my favourite restaurants in Vathy Errikos,.

Sunday

Route: Vathy, Meganisi, Frikes Today we’re heading south to explore the bays of Meganisi and stop for a swim and lunch.

What’s on the menu: Traditional Papoutsakia (what you’ll need: Fresh tomatoes, Onions, Garlic, Greek olive oil, Aubergines, Parsley, Feta Cheese, Spices) Where to find your ingredients: Here I recommend buying your vegetables from the local vegetables market in Vathy It’s a very cute market, a “bakalis” as Greeks call it, only selling vegetables picked by local farmers

Monday

Route: Frikes to South Atokos From Frikes, we set sail to Atokos, a small island in the Ionian Sea off the coast of Acarnania, one of the most westerly and perhaps most remote of the Echinades Islands. In South Atokos it is just pure bliss to spend a night on bay.

What’s on the menu: For our lunch, I prepare a light meal, made up of ham, fried Cypriotic halloumi, feta and manouri cheese, some toasted pita bread, a big greek salad and some fresh cold watermelon.

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For dinner I will prepare lavraki fish (seabass) together with a delicious beetroot salad. The ingredients for the salad: beetroot, carrot, parsley, dill, lemon, Greek olive oil, spices.

Where to find your ingredients: If you are lucky a local fisherman will cross your path on a boat with his fresh catch of the day! Cannot get any more fresh than this.

Tuesday

Route: Route: Atokos, Vathy, Ithaca. Lunch stop on a beach called Gidaki What’s on the menu: For lunch we will make Giouvetsi.

Where to find your ingredients: In Frikes there are no butcher shops, so I’d usually ask directly in the local restaurants if I can purchase the beef from them.

Wednesday

Route: Route: Vathy, Ithaca, Fiskardo. From Vathy will have a stop for a well-deserved swim and dive to then lunch in Koutsoupia Beach in Kefalonia.

MY CULINARY ITINERARY ACROSS IONIAN GREECE

What’s on the menu: In one of my sail stops I always love to prepare some home-made Gyros pita. Here’s what you’ll need: gyros meat (chicken or pork), fresh hot sexy pita bread, onions, tomatoes, home made tzatziki yogurt, garlic, dill, Cucumber, olive oil , vinegar , salt - fried potatoes, mustard and ketchup Where to find your ingredients: Any local butcher will do. For the other ingredients I’d look for one of the supermarkets in Vathy.

Thursday

Route: Fiskardo, Sivota , Swim stop and lunch in Arkoudi Island

Friday

Route: Sivota, Lefkas What’s on the menu: For breakfast I recommend a stop at the local pies and pastries shop Melina in Fiskardo.

For lunch, I will prepare another one of my absolute favourite Greek dishes: Gemista. What you’ll need is tomatoes, some colorful peppers, tomato paste, potatoes, zucchini, one carrot, mushrooms, black raisin, carolina rice, pine nuts, parsley, feta cheese and Greek olive oil.

Where to find your ingredients: In Fiskardo I always buy my ingredients at a friend’s local supermarket just between the alleys - walk on the main road next to the water, turn right just in front of “Le passage cafe” and there you are!

On my final day I like to treat my crew with what I call the ‘Finale Salad’. This salad contains the most superb fresh ingredients on earth and will give my clients the energy for the final day of their amazing sailing week.

Here’s what I have in my Finale salad: spinach leaves, nectarines, chia seeds, corn, fresh mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, fresh basil, fresh mint, pumpkin seeds, balsamic oil, olive oil, lemon, garlic powder, mushrooms, pomegranate, croutons.

Niki has been working as a freelance hostess for Istion Yachting and owns the sailing charter John Enzzo Cruises based in Northern Greece and would love to show you around the Ionian Sea. Find out more about Niki on Instagram.

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s you make your way to North Sardinia, after you’ve set sail from the crystalline waters of La Maddalena, you cannot certainly miss a foodie experience at bar Zi Antò. Located just about 1 NM (nautical mile) from La Maddalena harbour of Cala Gavetta and about 1.6 NM from Cala Mangia Volpe, this is your go-to-place for superb fish, fresh ingredients and breathtaking sunsets.

Zi Antò was originally a military home: you will find several towers dating back to the two world wars. The founder of the restaurant, Antonio Muzzu, also known to the locals ‘Zi Antò’ - quite literally Uncle Tony - chose this place as his living home back in 1950 together with wife Isabella and since 1959 started his culinary career.

This has always been a family bar, where the core values remain a fusion of Sardinian cooking tradition, fresh ingredients combined with an underlying respect for the environment.

Over the last ten years the culinary offer of Zi Antò has evolved into a wonderful variety of bruschettas, all made with local bread and ingredients... Sardinian cherry tomatoes, local mortadella, burrata cheese.

More recently the offer has now evolved to include some delicious ‘primi piatti’ (pasta dishes) with fresh catch of the day (‘il pescato del giorno’) from the local fish market.

Couldn’t be easier to anchor here

BRUSCHETTAS THE SARDINIAN WAY 22

Zi Antò is perfectly situated in a small peninsula between two bays: one sheltered from the westerly wind and the Mistral and the other one sheltered from the Levanter, easterly wind and from the Sirocco, the south-easterly wind. The restaurant is simply perfect to reach by boat as you’ll be able to anchor in the peninsula and have your lunch or evening stop as if it was the extension of your boat deck! Particularly recommended a visit here at sunset.

Enrico Muzzu, one of the family members behind Zi Antò here proposes one of the recipe they’re particularly proud of at Zi Antò’:

B R U S C H E T TA S T H E S A R D I N I A N WAY

Where to find Zi Antò Address: Località Punta Tegge, 07024 La Maddalena SS (the restaurant is a small white house on the sea).

You can book your Sardinian treat here by calling 0789 722150. Or start following them on Instagram or Facebook to see their latest recipes (and sunsets!).

Lorenzo, Enrico, Tino and Caterina

Sardinian fregola with seafood Ingredients Preparation for 4 people

☑☑ Fragola* (50g pro Person)

1.

☑☑ Pawns 200gr

2. Open the mussels and remove the whole shell. Continue removing the shell of the shrimp tails and slice your tomatoes and zucchini into small cubes.

☑☑ Clams 0,5 kg ☑☑ Calamari 150 gr ☑☑ Mussels 300gr ☑☑ Tomatoes 100gr ☑☑ Zucchinis 80gr ☑☑ Bisque sauce (0,5 Liter) ☑☑ Vegetable broth 0,5 Liter ☑☑ A few leaves of parsley ☑☑ Garlic and extra virgin olive oil

Open the clams, remove half of the shell.

3. Place your tomatoes and zucchini onto a pan with extra virgin oil and a pinch of salt.

4. Slice your squids into long strips. Now heat up another frying pan and place your garlic cloves and the extra virgin olive oil.

5. Add the fregola and toast it, then pour your vegetable broth. Once the broth starts boiling add the bisque sauce to give that final flavour to your fregola.

6. About 2 minutes before the fregola is ready add your shrimps, clams and zucchini. Just before serving, add the mussels, squids and parsley.

7. Complete your dish with a drizzle of olive oil. **Fregola is a type of Sardinian pasta and typically consists of semolina dough that has been rolled into balls 2–3 mm in diameter and toasted in an oven.

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Fancy sailing in Sardinia? Find your ideal boat here! https://www.sailogy.com/en/ boat-rental/rent-a-boat-insardinia-11

SAILING INFO

WIND CONDITIONS

TIDAL RANGE

LEVEL OF SAILING DIFFICULTY

An area of medium difficulty. Basically the weather and wind are rather stable. The Mistral can sometimes interfere with your trip planning. In the Strait of Bonifacio between Corsica and Sardinia you can often expect 1 to 2 Bft more. A really great area - pure fun!

BEST TIME TO TRAVEL April to October

ANCHORING

The infrastructure is excellent. Especially in the north there are countless bays and anchorage possibilities, as well as harbours and marinas.

PORT / INFRASTRUCTURE / PROVANT Many harbours and marinas on the way, well serviced.

PRICES

Beer: 3,50 Euro, Cappuccino: 3 Euro, local dishes: from 7 Euro (e.g. Pizza). At the exclusive hotspots it can also be a little more expensive.

GETTING THERE

Flight via Olbia (North) or Cagliari (South) - or with the ferry.

LANGUAGES SPOKEN Italian and English.

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THE OTHER GARDEN OF EDEN IN SOUTH CORSICA Situated in the middle of the International Marine Park, the port of Bonifacio is set in the heart of a channel, about one nautical mile long.

It offers total protection in all weathers and winds. But above all, a stop-over to satisfy sailors with top-level sea food gastronomy, numerous bars and terraces with the possibility of all types of provisioning only a few meters from the pontoons.

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THE OTHER GARDEN OF EDEN IN SOUTH CORSICA

he author, M .Valery, like Charles V or Napoleon Bonaparte was subjugated by the extreme beauty of Bonifa­cio. He resumes in two well-chosen words « picturesque capital » the strong sensations and unforgettable sou­venir offered by the« City of the Cliff». It has to be said that with its millenary fortress, its 5 historical monuments, its houses perched 60 meters over the sea and its 120 kilometers of coastline, Bonifacio has more than enough to satisfy curiosities and fulfill desires.

Bonifacio, the other garden of Eden Bonifacio is rich with rare and protected species. The Cory’s Shearwater seabird is part of the family of the Albatross, the African Fish Eagle planes over Sperone and wild orchids, found nowhere else in France, cover the countryside. And marine mammals of all kinds (the common dolphin and the White-Blue Dolphin) are omnipresent all year long.

The Natural Reserve of the Bonifacio Strait The largest marine natural reserve in mainland France, the Natural Reserve of the Bonifacio Strait aims at preserving and enhancing the value of the coastal and marine heritage of the Bonifacio Strait. Here you’ll find a variety of natural habitats, seagrass and coralligene meadows and vegetal or animal species, such as groupers, brown meagres, razorfish, Audoin’s gull, Cory’s shearwater. The reserve also has a uniquely beautiful and diverse landscape. It comprises 12,000 hectares of reinforced protection zones where underwater fishing is prohibited.

The reserve consists of the Lavezzi Islands, the Cerbicales Islands and the Tre Padule natural reserves, as well as the protected biotope areas of the Moines Islands and the Bruzzi Peninsula, a few zones acquired by the Coastline Conservatory and the Department of Corse-du-Sud along the coasts, and finally ‘cantonnements’ (no-take zones) introduced by the fishermen’s corporation of Bonifacio.

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WIND CONDITIONS PROPRIANO Bonifacio

TIDAL RANGE St

LEVEL OF SAILING DIFFICULTY Mostly between easy to medium level of difficulty. Generally the weather and wind conditions are fairly stable. Beware of the mistral which can be stronger especially in the west. It is less frequent over the summer and more active in the peripheral months.

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SAILING INFO

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ANCHORING There are many ports and marinas in Southern France and Corsica.

Otherwise you can also find beautiful bays.

PORTS / INFRASTRUCTURE / PROVISIONS

In the marinas you can get good supplies, electricity and water.

Easy access to supermarkets make it easy to store provisions almost everywhere you sail along the coastline of the region.

PRICES

Beer: 3,50 Euro, cappuccino: 3 Euro, local dishes: from 9 Euro. In some more touristic spots, prices can be a little higher than the average.

GETTING THERE

Flight via Nice, Marseille, Ajaccio.

LANGUAGES French and English

How about exploring Corsica by boat?

Browse through our boats here! https://www.sailogy.com/en/ destination/corsica

“Often seen as a bit of a dream destination for sailors, you will always find sailing wind here because of the nozzle effect.”

Sailing is special around here Sailing into Bonifacio is definitely a breathtaking experience. You enter through a narrow passage with cliffs on either side. Truly an incredible sailing journey. In the Strait of Bonifacio which separates Corsica and Sardinia, the coast is very rugged with large white cliffs towering over the sea. One can easily access numerous coves between cliffs. Often seen as a bit of a dream destination for sailors, you will always find sailing wind here because of the nozzle effect. These are one of the few stretches of coastline in the Mediterranean where you are practically sure to sail.

Not just a windy spot Omero Moretti, life-long sailor with a profound knowledge of this area, describes sailing across the Strait of Bonifacio as follows: “here the wind is the master: you can see it in the landscape, in the purest colors, in the molded rocks, in the low scrub that climbs on the stones, you can feel it in the air and in the scents. Often it is because of the sudden changes in the wind direction that this part of the Mediterranean has a tricky reputation. But it’s a beautiful navigation, challenging and definitely exciting.”

“The Strait is a great place to sail: a few miles apart there are beautiful bays sheltered from any wind and generally very safe anchorages - even if the wind may blow heavily, a short sail is enough to get to heavenly spots.”

“The Mistral’s shelters are the most popular, and therefore also the best known: Budelli, La Maddalena, Santa Manza, Rondinara and Lavezzi. Sometimes when the Mistral extends for several days, it’s worth going back to the east side of Corsica: the Mistral ultimately will get there as well but usually you won’t find any waves.” Omero continues: “With the Grecale, the north-easterly wind, you will find shelter on the western slopes of the islands of the archipelago, less “beaten” but definitely just as fascinating - two of them the wonderful Razzoli and the magical Porto della Madonna.”

This article was written in collaboration with the ‘Bonifacio Office Municipal de Tourisme’. Follow them on Instagram @bonifaciotourisme or find them on Facebook Bonifacio Tourisme.

And Omero Moretti. Follow Omero Moretti on Facebook Omero Moretti Vela or Instagram @omeromoretti 29

M o j it o

ยกEl clรกsico del Caribe!

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MOJITO - EL CLÁSICO DEL CARIBE!

W

hat could be better than a refreshing cocktail at sunset on board? Our choice today is a real classic, a Caribbean, refreshing mojito! Even Ernest Hemingway appreciated this popular cocktail in his 20 years in Cuba. “My mojito in La Bodeguita, My daiquiri in El Floridita.” according to a handwritten note left by the author.

The origin of the mojito is still not completely clear today. However, the first time it made its appearance on a cocktail menu was in Havana, on the beautiful island of Cuba. Reason why Cuba takes credit for being its place of origin. And this is why Cuban rum is generally the most popular and more often used to prepare it.

The first traces of mojito can be found back in the 16th century with the so called ‘El Draque’. Namely, this drink with lime and mint was once used by the famous buccaneer Sir Francis Drake as a remedy for his scurvy-plagued crew off the Cuban coast - the ingredients were chosen purposely. The limes helped against scurvy and the mint is said to be beneficial for stomach ailments.

However, there are several theories as to the origin of the mojito’s name. Some say that the cocktail got its name from the African word mojo, which describes a cloth bag with magical spices and objects. The African slaves on the sugar cane plantations (sugar cane is the raw ingredient used for the preparation of rum) thus probably gave the drink its name. Other sources claim that the name of the cocktail has its roots in the Cuban spice Mojo, which consists of limes and is often used for cooking in Cuban cuisine.

Mojadito translates for “a little wet” in English, which supports this theory of names.

However, there are several

theories as to the origin of the mojito’s name.

Wherever the mojito got its current name from, one thing is certain: in the early days, the taste was much harsher. In the 16th and 17th centuries, rum was almost inedible and was therefore mixed with sugar and other ingredients to make it sweeter and more flavoursome. Modern rum distilling techniques gave rise to the aromatic and refreshing mojito, which today is an essential part of any bar and we should add, any holiday at sea!Den Sprung von Kuba in die weite Welt gelang dem Getränk in der Zeit der Prohibition, indem er an Bekanntheit und Beliebtheit an der ‘Offshore-Bar’ der US-Amerikaner, wie Kuba damals bezeichnet wurde, gewann.

The drink made the leap from Cuba into the wide world during the time of prohibition by gaining in popularity and fame at the “offshore bar” of the Americans, as Cuba was called at that time.

Now that we know a little more about the origin of the mojito, we naturally do not want to withhold a recipe from you. Maybe you can try it out on board!

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M A G I S T E R N AV I S - I S S U E N O . 1

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MOJITO - EL CLÁSICO DEL CARIBE!

Even Ernest Hemingway appreciated this popular cocktail in his 20 years in Cuba.

Ingredients: ☑☑ ☑☑ ☑☑ ☑☑ ☑☑ ☑☑

1 lime (juice) 2-4 tsp white cane sugar 5-7 mint leaves 4 cl rum (white or up to 3 years old) Soda water Crushed Ice

What you need: ☑☑ ☑☑ ☑☑ ☑☑ ☑☑

Cutting board Knife Glass Wooden pestle cocktail spoon

Preparation:

F

irst, the sugar is put into a glass with the lime juice. Then the mint leaves are added and lightly pressed to release the essential juices. Be careful not to overly press the mint as this could ruin the taste! Now fill the glass to the brim with crushed ice and add the rum. To mix the ingredients well, stir with a bar spoon and then fill the glass with soda water. You can now decorate with some extra mint leaves as desired.

For connoisseurs: Mint is especially important for the taste of the mojito. To make it even more intense, carve a few sprigs of mint and place them in a solution of lime juice and sugar. Leave it all in the fridge overnight and finally serve without the twigs in a glass with rum and cold soda. A fresh sprig of mint is then used for decoration. This way of preparation is a bit laborious, but worth a try!

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MIS-UNDERSTOOD NAUTICAL KNOTS

YOUR SEA KNOTS SURVIVAL GUIDE. Sara has been sailing for several years together with partner in crime and professional sailor Omero Moretti. In this article she takes us on a journey through knots she’s been learning over the years, those that come in handy as you set sails. A practical survival guide whether it’s your first time or you are more of a pro.

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MIS-UNDERSTOOD NAUTICAL KNOTS

S

ea knots are one of the things that most fascinates those who approach the world of sailing, and that triggers the most fierce discussions among sailors: “it is done this way, no it is done this way, no it should be done as I do”, etc.. There are many ways to tie knots, and it is right that everyone finds what they prefer, but some things are better to keep in mind Sea knots have precise characteristics: apart from the specific function that each one performs, they must be able to withstand very strong tensions and at the same time melt quickly and easily when needed. Securing something well in its place and being able to release it quickly when the time comes is in most cases a matter of safety, and that’s why knots on board receive so much attention.

What Omero always says is that knots must be understood before they are made. If you focus on learning what function they have to perform, on which head the tension is exerted and which is free (the dormant and the current) and how to untie it, you will have understood a knot. And at that point doing it will be simple.

Those who know little or nothing about sailing when they come on board for a vacation find themselves in a moment projected into a world of sea knots with high sounding names, very complicated in appearance and to be made with the utmost precision. And almost everyone wants to learn how to make at least a couple of them. And even those who are already sailors always find themselves having a little lesson, a bit of revision and a lot of exercise to learn the different ways of making a knot. In one of the last weeks in Sardinia we had a high concentration of sailors and an expert climber on board, the lessons on knots, as on many other aspects of sailing, were therefore wasted.

On request here is a brief summary :) Which knots are needed in the boat?

One thing that few people say because it diminishes the sacredness of the experienced sailor is that the knots that are really needed in the boat are few. Under normal conditions there are four that are used the most: the clove hitch knot, the savoia, the lover‘s bowline (gassa d’amante) and the bollard knot (nodo di bitta).

Clove Hitch Knot Clove Hitch Knot is used a lot, and it is important to learn how to do it well both horizontally and vertically: it is the classic fender knot, but it is also useful to tie the tender on the fly to a bollard. Once the knot is done, it is best to secure it with an extra neck to prevent the speech from melting with tension. The flat knot is used to connect the two ends of a line or two lines of the same diameter. Also in this case a half neck extra for safety is advisable.

The Savoia The ‘savoia’ is mainly used at the end of the current maneuvers, to make sure that they do not run away from the winches and stoppers. Two things to remember: it is better to do the savoia not just at the end of a rope, but leaving some free calumny.

For the halyards of the spi and gennaker Omero does not use stop knots, it is preferable to let the sail go even in the water rather than risk during a sudden breeze.

Lover‘s Bowline Lover’s bowline is the most popular knot for sailors, who use it for anything you can think of, both on and off the boat. Characteristic of the bowline is the eyelet that forms, which does not flow and is therefore suitable for attaching a line to anything of any size: another line, a bollard, a gullet, a pole.

Omero is obsessed with making the bowline “for good” as he says, that is without preparing the eyelet first (with the classic story of the snake coming out of the lake), because he says (and he is right) that you have to have the dexterity to tie a knot in any condition, and preparing the eyelet first is

often impossible if the sleeper is in tension.

Another very important thing that Omero often repeats to me, about mooring knots, is that first you have to think about stopping the boat: twice around the bollard are the first thing to do when you have to secure the boat on land, especially in tense wind conditions, then you can think about what kind of knot to use.

The Bollard Knot The bollard knot is perhaps the easiest to screw up, resulting in Omero (and any other commander) having to screw up because if done wrong it becomes difficult to untie. In the photos below you can see the sequence of the realization of the bollard knot as Omero does: two “eight”, the second eight is to be closed by making a half neck upside down and keeping the same alignment of the top, and finally another half neck upside down for further safety. There are many other ways to make the bollard knot that can be found around the web and ports: no pretense to say that this is the best way, but for now we have never had any problems.

Sea knots must be beautiful Another commander when I was doing some shitty knot told me: “If a knot is not beautiful it means it is not done well”. He was right: sea knots, just to be able to untie well, are precise and never tangled. Some knots, then, are beautiful and that is to say, they are purely decorative. This is the case of the “Turkish head” knot that I enjoy making in the middle of the wheels of the Freya’s rudder, or to weave the mats on board. It’s a bit complex, I must admit, but very fascinating: it’s a continuous weaving that seems never to end and that’s really a nice meditation if you don’t have anything to do one afternoon…

And finally, if you want to practice (maybe in the office :)) I recommend some marine nodes applications to download on your phone or tablet. I use the first one, but all of them are useful because they show the nodes in three dimensions, and the animated realization of the node can also stop, slow down or restart if at some point you get lost...

Follow Omero’s adventures on Instagram @omeromoretti or visit his website www.omeromorettivela.it

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WHERE PHOTOGR AND SAILING CO-EXIST. We meet Andrea Andalò, Italian licenced skipper, family guy and passionate photographer. Despite sailing is not Andrea’s first job - he’s a professional trainer in the automotive sector - in this article, he shares with us how he became passionate about sailing and life onboard plus all the profound emotions and vivid memories one gets from sailing.

Tell us a little bit about you? Where are you from and how did you get to love the world of sailing?

I was born in Rome in 1969, I lived in the US for one year and then moved to Bologna at the age of 13, before arriving in Milan and falling in love with it more or less 15 years ago. Proud father of two children, aged 10 and 15 to whom I am trying to share and pass them my love for the sea and sailing.

For me the most fascinating part of being at sea is actually that profound sense of inner peace, it’s kind of as if you’re being cradled in the maternal womb again. I owe this passion also to my father, let’s say it’s his ‘fault’. Since I was a child, he has always taken me on boats of all sorts, from small boats to motor dinghies, this has given me that drive and desire to make me want to sail. It is however at the age of 17 that I started feeling that urge to go sailing, to be closer to the sea. It was 1987, it started as a joke: I took part in the first course at the Centro Velico Caprera, in Sardinia from there on I lived on bread, sailing and bowline.

I took a long break from sailing due to a personal loss, however I couldn’t easily stay away from that strong urge and 5 years ago, like a mistral gust, I came back to sailing. Come on Andrea get on that boat, so here I am sailing again.

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How would you describe your sailing experience?

As a sailor, I grew up sailing at the Centro Velico Caprera where I took part in several courses up to the most advanced one, their cruise course.

Over the past few years, I have acquired a good deal of confidence in hauling the mainsail.

‘‘It’s a great feeling to be able to pass on this incredible love I have for the sea and sailing to my children’’ A very special moment of my sailing years so far has certainly been back in 2018 when, as a skipper, I sailed on a 35 foot cruiser from Ostia, near Rome heading towards the Pontine Islands and then to Ischia and Procida with my children onboard. It’s a great feeling to be able to pass on this incredible love I have for the sea and sailing to them. In the following years, I continued sailing in my leisure time in Croatia. Croatia really does offer some excellent sailing and marinas equipped with excellent port services at very affordable costs.

What do you absolutely love about sailing? “freedom”: this is the first word that comes to mind when I think of sailing. If you take a holiday and leave on a plane, your holiday starts when

RAPHY

you are at your destination, the rest is just travel. On a boat, your holiday starts even before you leave the moorings, before you set sails.. On a boat, you’re on holiday when you start dreaming about it, when you start thinking about the galley, when at home you draw the route, in front of your nautical chart (today on a PC).

You’re a passionate photographer as well as a professional skipper. How do you combine your passion for photography with the one for sailing?

Taking photos is like drawing using light as your brush, freezing the moment in that one single shot. I don’t particularly like “holiday” photos I am referring to those predictable holiday souvenir photos, they are not my photo style.

When I pick up my camera, it is because I see something I have already imagined in my mind, taking a shot is just that necessary act to freeze that imaginative thought, to capture it. It’s exactly what I do when I am onboard with my Nikon. It usually happens that I go on a sailing vacation with my mind and I visualize all the photos that I want to take. Then when on holiday I make sure to capture with my camera what I had seen in my head before leaving.

‘‘When I pick up my camera, it is because I see something I have already imagined in my mind, taking a shot is just that necessary act to freeze that imaginative thought, to capture it. It’s exactly what I do when I am onboard with my Nikon.’’

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If you could pick a place (bay, harbour, town, etc…) from your sailing experience that you will forever remember…?

I don’t think I can pick one bay, harbour or a memory.

The sea is so immense that I feel like experiencing it at 365 degrees, stop and be mesmerized by it, that shimmering light the water creates, these are quite unique feelings. Having said that, a few years ago as I sailed back in Porto Palma, a bay on the Island of Caprera where a long time ago I started my sailing experience, I will treasure that moment in my heart forever. There are numerous moments I will forever remember. I can pick two, probably my most favourite ones: there was this one time when my children set the alarm at 5 a.m. on our way from Ostia to Ponza telling me, with their sleepy eyes: ‘we woke up to see the sun rise with our daddy’. The first taste of the ocean waves during a cruise to the Canary Islands. Often my friends ask me if I’m not afraid to spend the night in a bay, the right answer is to ask them if you have ever really seen the stars. It is something magical.

What do you recommend to those who are considering going on a sailing holiday for their first time?

Wow, what a responsibility to respond to this question!

If you don’t have any experience, before booking a holiday of a week or more, I’d recommend trying it out for a weekend. That way you and your crew can understand if it’s something that you enjoy. The problem is that if it is something you love, then it’s tricky to stop!

Another piece of advice is to rely on qualified skippers and look at what they do while sailing, ask them as many questions you can think of, especially if this is your first experience, or perhaps you just got your sailing licence. I always recommend to rely only on those who can give you that assurance of great professionalism, expertise and knowledge.

You can follow Andrea Andalò and take a look at his exquisite photo collection on Instagram

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Ahoy, join the crew!

It’s been a busy year for our community and we’ve absolutely loved seeing some wonderful shots of fellow sailors on their holidays.

If you’ve sailed recently and are not feeling too shy, why not share your favourite pic by tagging us @Sailogy_com or using hashtag #sailogy! We’ll be thrilled to see your photos. Here are some of the most recent ones we’ve received.

Keep’em coming!

SAILING AT 360° With over 25 years of experience in the world of sailing, the crew behind sailing school Orza Minore has been able to create a unique model on the sailing scene, based on the love for this sport and geared towards sharing the technique to both the beginner and the advanced sailor.

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S A I L I N G AT 3 6 0 °

VIDEO rza Minore is one of the main sailing schools in Italy, operating mainly in Dervio on Lake Como. The crew is not just about lake sailing, as they often head south towards more open waters, in Liguria and Sardinia. Orza Minore deals with sailing at 360°, from beginner courses for children and adults to the more technique-driven classes for competitive teams.

What makes Orza a special learning environment is the passion of its sailing instructor like Martino, passionate about sailing for 13 years now.

What is the fascination for sailing for you?

Sailing is freedom, it is travelling, it is playing with the wind and the waves.

If you’re thinking about trying sailing for the first time, what is the best way to try it out?

The best way to approach sailing is to try it, you have to get on a boat and try to sail; after that you have to continue with sailing courses in order to learn and start being an active member of a crew. Then the possibilities for sailing are almost endless, everyone has the chance to find their own way.

almost exclusively theoretical examination and can be taken even with little sailing experience. The federal instructor’s licence, on the other hand, is a course that lasts years and certifies a person’s ability to teach sailing.

Several of our sailors have a nautical licence but may not know the sailing area they’re taking their crew for holiday. What is your advice to them?

The main thing is the attitude with which you sail. You need to be ready to change your mind about the changing weather-climate situation, be able to listen to the advice of those who know the sailing area you’re heading towards and be prepared. By being prepared, I mean to have all the tools you need to navigate safely: weather forecasts and nautical charts. I also strongly recommend studying the sailing area you’re planning to sail to; unexpected events always happen when sailing, but if you are prepared you can surely face them.

What are your plans for the future?

I plan to continue sailing for as much as I can, safely of course. And sailing at this particular time is one of the safest activities of all. On top of that, traveling and discovering new places is what makes this sport special and accessible, and perfect, to everyone!

Should you bring along a certain skipper ambition?

Every time you go out sailing you learn something new, it is a sport that allows you to always grow and learn from everyone. You shouldn’t think you know it all, as making mistakes on the boat is quite common even for advanced sailors. My advice is to stay humble and make sure you keep an attitude open to learning and listening.

How do you approach your sailing classes?

There is no one-size-fits-all approach to sailing, you can learn a technique even from children; in my view, this is what makes sailing so wonderful: you can exchange ideas, expertise and skills at all levels with sailing and you can rest assured to always learn something new. I strongly recommend relying on certified instructors and trainers. Especially at the very start of your sailing training professionals can make sure you learn to stay disciplined but also will convey that insane passion for sailing they’ve grown over the years.

What is the best way to get a certificate?

There are different types of certificates, in particular in Italy the main ones are the nautical licence and the FIV (Federazione Italiana Vela) instructor’s licence. The licence, unfortunately, is an

Martino together with his younger students

To learn more about Orza Minore, you can visit their site or follow them on Instagram orza_minore at or on their Facebook page @OrzaMinore 41

M A G I S T E R N AV I S - I S S U E N O . 1

SAILING IN PANDEMIC TIMES IN CROATIA How does it feel to sail during a pandemic crisis along the Croatian coastline? Here’s the travel report of sailor Mario Lopez and his partner who sailed from beautiful Dubrovnik on a Dufour 360 early October. As it turns out, his trip ended up being quite an extraordinary experience onboard...against all odds.

“After our flights have been postponed several times due to the pan-

time. We are allowed to take off our masks on the plane while eating

demic and the associated travel warnings and flight cancellations, our

and drinking. About one hour later, we land in Dubrovnik and make

outbound flight to Dubrovnik leaves today at 12:45 noon.

our way to the marina. The handover of our boat takes place rapidly.

Luca, our base manager at the marina, gives us a tour of our boat and

Originally we were supposed to fly in the evening and would have

then drives us to the nearest supermarket. We buy water, beer, wine

spent the first night in Dubrovnik in a hotel. But because of the pan-

and food supplies for 1 week and quickly stow everything in the various

demic things are not running quite as expected. Dubrovnik has been

storage spaces on the boat. Mario checked the wind and weather

flagged as a risk area and a travel warning states: “..all unnecessary

forecast for the 100th time. It doesn’t look good: from early afternoon

tourist trips to the Dubrovnik - Nebrevka region are strongly discour-

until Sunday night 1:00 a strong wind with up to 50 ktn is announced. It

aged..”. The numbers have finally gone down again, but the travel

seems too risky to sail out now, so we get into the idea of spending our

warning has not yet been lifted and unfortunately the trip is simply too

first night there.

risky for the rest of our crew.

Since Mario and I will continue working from home after our return anyway, a possible quarantine does not seem to be that bad and after weighing all pros and cons we decide to fly and sail anyway. We have chosen a Dufour 360 Grand Large, there’s enough space for the two of us.

Saturday, 3.10.2020 We wake up at about 8:30. It is quiet in the marina and there is little sign of the storm that is supposed to be raging outside. While I go to take a shower, Mario takes a look at the weather forecast. The marina is closed today. Wind force 6-8, nobody is authorized to leave. But at least it should stay dry and it is pleasantly warm. After breakfast we go

As expected, the airport is relatively empty. Of course, masks are com-

to the nearby supermarket to buy the missing small things we noticed:

pulsory in the terminal. It’s strange that now people now buy single- or

Washing-up liquid, liquid soap, a lighter for the gas cooker, orange juice

reusable masks and disinfectant sprays, rather than coke, chips and

for me for breakfast and another 6-pack of water. We think about taking

fruit gums. Mario and I got ourselves the best protection in the aero-

the bus to Dubrovnik, but then we stay in the marina. After all, the wind

plane FFP2 masks. As expected, the plane is not full and we leave on

should continue to freshen up in the course of the afternoon, and it

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MOJITO - EL CLÁSICO DEL CARIBE!

43 The Island of Lastovo, Croatia

M A G I S T E R N AV I S - I S S U E N O . 1

might rain a few drops now and then. After all, the wind is expected to freshen up further in the course of the afternoon, and it might rain a few

Tuesday, 6.10.2020 At night the moon wakes me up. We wake up again just before 8:00:

drops now and then. Next Saturday we’ll be in Dubrovnik for another

It is a cloudless sky and the sun is slowly coming over the hill. There is

night anyway, and with the sunshine forecast we’ll have plenty of time

a rather cool wind and we wait a few more minutes in our warm bed.

to explore the old town. I make myself comfortable on the forecastle,

Finally, I dare go for a morning swim. Wonderful.

listen to the beating of the shrouds, I enjoy some lazy reading. We decide to stay on board for dinner - the frozen burgers we had the pre-

Ahead of us lies a wonderful sailing day. Mario takes some outrageous-

vious day in the restaurant were not that great, we’d rather make some

ly superb photos, probably making our friends at home quite jealous.

delicious wraps and enjoy a glass of red wine on board.

In Halle it’s 6 degrees and raining, in Cologne and Munich it obviously doesn’t look any better. We are happy with our 20 degrees and sunshine. We first sail along the island of Lastovo, then round it in the north and then sail again towards the east coast. We then decide to sail the 2 hours further to Korcula, the island opposite of Lastovo. This turns out to be a good decision. The small anchorage in Pupnatska Luka is very idyllically situated, we are the only boat and manage to easily anchor.

Above us again a starry sky. After dinner we chill out on deck: We get our blankets as it is getting crispy out here, there’s an incredible starry sky above us. I spot the dolphin: the constellation where Christopher has his star. The staring of the sky is special, even more so when I spot shooting stars! Three during the course of the evening...

Wednesday, 7.10.2020 As our weather apps correctly predicted, today it is grey in grey and rainy: we are woken up by the banging of the anchor chain against the side of the ship: the wind and thus the ship have turned and we Korcula, Croatia

are now lying with the bow towards the opening of the bay. We are still lucky and can still enjoy our breakfast outside in peace. As soon

Sunday, 4.10.2020 We wake up early by the numerous church bells. The storm has obviously died down and the sun is shining. After breakfast we do not waste much time and leave.

Because of the pandemic, Dubrovnik has reported 7000 less tourists compared to normal non-Covid times. Around 14:30 we enter a small bay: Luka Saplunara. There is a small field of buoys and instead of anchoring we simply moor at a buoy. In normal times, these are exclusively for restaurant guests. This year all restaurants are closed so we choose to stay anyway. But first a swim. Wonderful. After dinner we enjoy the silence with red wine and tasty nibbles. I look up at the starry sky - a milky way almost like the outback in Australia is spread-

as we are out of the bay, the spitting turns into proper rain and Mario puts on his oilskin. A little later I also take my rain trousers and cap and another 1-2 hours later my rain jacket. We decide to head for the sandy bay in the south of Korcula. It is too nasty and we do not want to drive another 4 hours to Mijel in this weather. The bay of Przina is not very pretty (which one is there when it rains?) but we decide to try anchoring anyway. We spend the rest of the day reading and chilling. Sometimes it swings quite a bit. It also starts to rain again and again. Around 18:00 we take our beers on deck to escape from the next rain shower into our Krka. Luckily, the weather seems to be getting better. Less than 30 minutes later it has stopped and we can still see a beautiful sunset. The rocking becomes less frequent and above us a cloudless sky opens up, this means only one thing: dinner outside!

ing over us. It’s very quiet here, in a way, the pandemic has brought us the chance to enjoy a much calmer holiday so far. We go to bed early, because tomorrow there is a long drive to Lastovo ahead of us…

Monday, 5.10.2020 At 6:30 I wake up. The weather’s not that bad after all: the sun hasn’t risen yet, so it still looks a bit cloudy. The sea is still a bit bumpy but not as bad as yesterday. After about 8 hours of sailing and about 44 nautical miles we are finally approaching our destination for today: the island of Lastovo lies ahead of us - a nature reserve. For 100 Kuna (about 15 Euro) we are allowed to moor at the buoy. Plus an additional 15 Euro for crew & boat for the nature reserve. The off-season prices are really affordable.

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S A I L I N G I N PA N D E M I C T I M E S I N C R OAT I A

Thursday, 8.10.2020

Around 1:00 a.m. the extreme rocking finally reduces in intensity. The next morning a cloudless sky greets us, together with a rather strong and cold wind. As the sun is shining only timidly over the hill so far, we do without our good-morning swim. But then better wait until this evening! Mario advises to hurry, as the stroke might be a little longer today after all. We can set the sails immediately after casting off and with a wind of 25kn we can reach 6.5 kn. Our boat can hardly go any faster.

As the wind is quite gusty here and there in the channel, We sail along the island of Mljet from north to south - but this time along the northern coast. Around 15:00 we arrive at the first of 2 bays that Mario has chosen for us to spend the night. The first bay “Prozura” is quite pretty and has numerous buoys, but it doesn’t seem protected enough with the prevailing NW wind (or is it a “small” bora?) and we sail the 30min further to “Okuklje”. There are several restaurants here and the restaurant owners are also ready to do business at the pier and have their moorings ready to brief us. First we think about anchoring, which we quickly discard due to a shallow water in the middle of the bay. Then we prefer to anchor at the buoy. There are two small yellow buoys on the south side of the bay. However, the buoys are so small and the loops are under water that we need some mooring. Finally I get ready to jump into the water and tie ourselves down from the water when Mario finally manages to grab and hold on to a buoy. After mooring, we quickly enjoy a cool bath before we get our anchor or buoy beer. We watch the local fishermen checking the nets in their rowing boats. Tomorrow we will return to the marina in Dubrovnik.

In the evening we enjoy once again the view into the cloudless starry sky. Our sailing week has passed incredibly fast again....

Friday, 9.10.2020

The morning looks sunny although the sun has not yet arrived in our bay and the wind is still quite cool. So no bath but breakfast immediately. Since we are very well on track with our supplies, we have fried eggs and fruit with Greek yoghurt today. Then we’re off. No wind plus the sea lies before us like a bathtub and we decide to have a look closer to the islands off Dubrovnik. The island landscape reminds me a little bit of the Marlborough Sounds of New Zealand, several small “wooded mushrooms” until just before the water edge. Before we go to the marina we have to refuel. I moor the fenders left and right, and as a precaution I prepare the thick berta, because the entrance seems to be quite narrow and we are not quite sure yet how to moor. Then I get ready with the mooring rope at the bow. The mooring manoeuvre works almost perfectly due to the lack of wind. We refuel, I pay and then we start again in reverse order: first the stern line is released, then the bow line on slip - and off we go. Mario tells Luca that we have finished refuelling and are now coming into the marina. The trip there takes about half an hour from the petrol station. There is not much going on in the marina, no wind either and Mario makes a perfect berthing manoeuvre.

Luca quickly checks the boat and thanks us for treating the Krka so well. Now only the diver is missing. Meanwhile I take out the rubbish and we enjoy our last beer - with crackers, salami and cheese. We let the evening fade away comfortably on board. Since it gets quite fresh after sunset, we get the reinforced blankets and pillows again. The starry sky here is not as impressive as outside in the small bays. Around 21:30 we get tired and get off to bed.

What a wonderful trip. No crowded bays and excessive prices. In addition, voluntary quarantine on board with recommended permanent ventilation - good that we did it. We are looking forward to next year!

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MARKUS SILBERGASSER

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F R O M T H E M O U N TA I N S T O T H E S E A

Markus Silbergasser comes from the mountains, or more precisely from Austria, near Salzburg. His summer home, however, has been for quite some time now the Mediterranean - and his SY Nambawan, a Beneteau Oceanis. Here’s a conversation about setting yourself free and feeling a vivid passion for the sea.

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Your sailing holidays, • since 2001.

Choose the biggest charter fleet in South of Italy.

85 boats in fleet.

7 bases all over Italy.

20 years of experience.

Endless beauty to discover.

Tuscany

•

"

Spart�/ento YACHTS 48

& CHARTER

www.spartivento.it

H

ow did you actually come to sail?

When I was 16 an acquaintance from my home town took me sailing for the first time to the Northern Adriatic, where his boat was anchored. As a teenager it was wonderful for me to sail up and down the Istrian coast on his Elan 32 (at that time still a big sailing yacht). It was incredibly fun.

And even then it was clear to me: when I grow up I will need my own boat and will travel the oceans with it. And that’s how it finally happened.

So the foundation stone was laid early on, wasn‘t it?

Well, I grew up in a normal family of four in the countryside, my hobbies were hiking and mountaineering, especially since we still had our house outside the village, right on the mountain. Swimming and the sea were not so accessible there.

How did you make the dream of having your own boat and the necessary sailing licences come true?

First of all, mainly through hard work! With a normal job and the people’s mindset of where I was growing up, this didn’t look at all likely, I realised that quite fast. So after my apprenticeship in handicraft, I continued my education to become an industrial engineer.

For over 20 years I was then employed in a large company - always with that one goal in mind. And that‘s what I saved up for - the big dream of having my own boat. I only got my first sailing licence in 2004 and that was when I met my partner Monika. That worked out quite nicely, because it was immediately clear to us: sailing is our thing.

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M A G I S T E R N AV I S - I S S U E N O . 1

When did you decide it was the time to make that life change?

In 2005 I started my own business, to manage my time better. This way I could then spend 8-10 weeks a year on the boat. At the same time, I continued my intensive training. Weather seminars, medicine on board and all the sailing certificates up to our worldwide trip. And after having read many books of couples who had sailed around the world, we decided to go on board during an economic crisis. Before the saved money is left lying there unused in the bank account, we decided to buy our own boat.

It all happened relatively quickly and we decided to buy a 40-foot Beneteau Oceanis. Ideal for two of us, but also big enough to host up to 4 guests on board. And we were lucky: through the mediation of my sailing mentor, who had got me to sail, we came across a hardly used, virtually unused demonstration boat. When I came back from visiting Italy, I said to Monika: we absolutely have to buy this boat - and we are still very happy with it today.

That‘s how you came to the Nambawan - but the name needs some explanation. What is behind it?

While reading sailing-around-the-world literature we became aware of the name Nambawan. In the Creole language Bislama, which is spoken in Vanuatu, it means “the best”. And for us our boat is the best boat - our number one.

Of course, we also want to show our Nambawan their home, the South Seas - that was another incentive for us to name our boat that way.

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What is the fascination for you about being on the water??

Sailing is the last great freedom that the world of today still has to offer!

There are few restrictions, just adapting to nature, you have to live with it and you can actually get a lot of power out of it. The simple, beautiful places you discover, with little or no infrastructure - wonderful! Also in connection with the discoveries you can make on land.

Speaking of places, is there a designated favourite place in the Mediterranean?

Ah, there are many. Actually, I have several in every country, in every region. It always depends on the conditions under which you sail there, of course. Sometimes a place is a dream if the weather is right, and a week later a nightmare if the wind and weather conditions change.

You said earlier that adapting to nature plays a big role. That doesn‘t always work out perfectly - are there any challenging situations you’ve faced while at sea?

Of course, if you are on the move a lot, as we are, then you surely find yourself in challenging unexpected situations. Even your boat sometimes lets you down, no matter how well you plan ahead and take good care of the maintenance. For example, the engine breaks down before anchoring, or your cable breaks when starting the engine of your Dinghy. That’s the reason why I always make sure I am in a position to intervene and repair and improvise wherever possible.

A small tip: Even if you take over a boat as a charter customer, always have it thoroughly briefed and checked! That way you can have an understanding if your charter yacht is fully working. A boat is very complex, and there is almost no boat that does not have some weaknesses.

What would you advise to take onboard to someone who, like you, dreams about going off sailing?

Of course, it’s not always all sunshine on board, and it’s not always as glamorous as in most pictures

“Sailing is the last great freedom that the world of today still has to offer! ” and snapshots. You have to limit yourself in some things when living on board, but it’s definitely worth it. Living in harmony with nature is often enough the most rewarding aspect.

At the moment you are exclusively travelling in the Mediterranean. Where else will your journey on your Nambawan take you?

We definitely want to continue sailing in the Mediterranean. I can’t say how much longer we’ll be travelling in the Mediterranean, but of course that depends very much on how the current pandemic situation develops. At some point, of course, the Caribbean and the South Seas will also be on our agenda.

Markus, thank you very much, fair winds to you and your Nambawan!

www.untersegeln.eu untersegeln silbergasser @untersegeln 51

AN 8-DAY CRUISE

M A G I S T E R N AV I S - I S S U E N O . 1

S

aint Vincent and the Grenadines is a former colony of Great Britain and a member of the Commonwealth.

Distances between the islands are very short and the Caribbean waters are excellent for diving and snorkelling: what makes this sailing area extremely popular among sailors. Two ships were wrecked to the ground intentionally to provide a possibility for beginners to learn and experience wreck diving. So this destination is perfectly prepared for watersports enthusiasts. Another point in favour of the Grenadines is that the temperature does not normally drop below 30 degrees Celsius all year round. The one thing to note is that from July to October the risk of hurricanes increases, so it is better to avoid sailing here around those months. The main island of the Grenadines is St. Vincent, where our cruise starts.

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A N 8 -DAY C R U I S E - S A I N T V I N C E N T A N D T H E G R E N A D I N E S

ST. VINCENT

THE TOBAGO CAYS (6NM)

Take over your charter yacht at the Blue Lagoon Marina in St. Vincent.

The marina is centrally located. The capital of the island, Kingstown, was founded by the French in 1722, but English has ultimately become the main spoken language. St. Vincent is one of the poorer islands of the Caribbean, which is why you will often find dilapidated houses instead of splendour and jewellery. However, Fort Charlotte, built in 1806 to protect against attackers, towers majestically over the capital.

Take over your charter yacht at the Blue Lagoon Marina in St. Vincent.

The marina is centrally located. The capital of the island, Kingstown, was founded by the French in 1722, but English has ultimately become the main spoken language. St. Vincent is one of the poorer islands of the Caribbean, which is why you will often find dilapidated houses instead of splendour and jewellery. However, Fort Charlotte, built in 1806 to protect against attackers, towers majestically over the capital.

MUSTIQUE (15NM)

CANOUAN (7NM)

With its unspoilt nature and white sandy beaches, the island of Mustique remains one of the most impressive islands. As Mustique is privately owned, there are hardly any hotels here, which makes the island especially interesting for an overnight stay contemplating the undisturbed starry sky. Peace, seclusion and magnificent nature especially define this island. Picnicking on Macaroni Beach is a popular activity on Mustique.

With its unspoilt nature and white sandy beaches, the island of Mustique remains one of the most impressive islands. As Mustique is privately owned, there are hardly any hotels here, which makes the island especially interesting for an overnight stay contemplating the undisturbed starry sky. Peace, seclusion and magnificent nature especially define this island. Picnicking on Macaroni Beach is a popular activity on Mustique.

MAYREAU (19NM)

BEQUIA (20NM)

Mayreau is the smallest of the Grenadines islands with its 250 inhabitants. Snorkelling is a must here. The Salt Whistle Bay in the northwest of the island is certainly an impressive bay. Those who want to secure a good spot at the small headland should anchor early. From there you have a great view through palm trees to the open Atlantic Ocean. The locals on the island live mainly from fishing and offer their delicacies in the nearby restaurants. These are worth a visit!

Mayreau is the smallest of the Grenadines islands with its 250 inhabitants. Snorkelling is a must here. The Salt Whistle Bay in the northwest of the island is certainly an impressive bay. Those who want to secure a good spot at the small headland should anchor early. From there you have a great view through palm trees to the open Atlantic Ocean. The locals on the island live mainly from fishing and offer their delicacies in the nearby restaurants. These are worth a visit!

PETIT ST. VINCENT (7NM)

ST. VINCENT (9NM)

On Petit St. Vincent you’ll find two miles of pristine white sandy beaches surrounded by palm trees, the perfect place to switch off and unwind.

Those who are into sports will enjoy indulging in all sorts of water sports here: from windsurfing, snorkelling, kayaking to stand-up paddling - here you will find everything your heart desires, surrounded by untouched nature. The island is also a pretty sight from the water - the island is hilly and abundant with natural wildlife.

On Petit St. Vincent you’ll find two miles of pristine white sandy beaches surrounded by palm trees, the perfect place to switch off and unwind.

Those who are into sports will enjoy indulging in all sorts of water sports here: from windsurfing, snorkelling, kayaking to stand-up paddling - here you will find everything your heart desires, surrounded by untouched nature. The island is also a pretty sight from the water - the island is hilly and abundant with natural wildlife.

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0

BRITISH

20

40

60

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VIRGIN ISLANDS a

TORTOLA

10-20 kn

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ST. MARTIN B

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WIND CONDITIONS

min

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Roseau

MARTINIQUE

ST. LUCIA

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LEVEL OF SAILING DIFFICULTY

a

BEST TIME TO TRAVEL

n

December to May.

UNION ISLAND

r

e

BOAT DRIVER‘S LICENCE / VOCATIONAL VEHICLE DIVERTIGATION LICENCE Varies from island to island, a radio certificate is usually not necessary.

ST. VINCENT

d

i n

The BVIs are a great spot for beginners thanks to the short distances between harbours and its calm seas. The further south, the greater the distances between harbours, plus the wind can become stronger.

G

GRENADA

SAILING INFO

ANCHORING

There is a lot of anchoring - the islands and their bays are a real invitation. You will also find many buoys, marinas are not so frequent.

PORTS / INFRASTRUCTURE / PROVISIONS

You should definitely bunker at the beginning of your trip, not everywhere you will find a shop quickly. Recommended to leave with plenty of water and cash as well.

PRICES

Beer: around 2,80 Euro, cappuccino: 2,80 Euro, local dishes: from 10 Euro can differ depending on the island.

GETTING THERE

Varies: either via the USA or directly from Germany and all over Europe.

LANGUAGES SPOKEN

Depends on the island: in the BVIs English is best, in Martinique e.g.

French, in Puerto Rico Spanish.

Fancy exploring the Caribbean by boat?

Find your perfect boat here! https://www.sailogy.com/en/ destination/caribbean

FOR THE WHOLE YEAR

A SAILING PARADISE

M A G I S T E R N AV I S - I S S U E N O . 1

Based on the trip report from sailor and author Jimmy Cornell

T

he Canary Islands are a typical blue water area off the coast of Africa, in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. Due to their position in the open ocean, this sailing spot is often regarded best for advanced sailors.

Due to the Azores high and the trade winds, a strong wind blows all year round from mostly northern directions (up to 20 knots), which only decreases on the leeward side of the mountainous islands. Sailing in these breathtakingly beautiful islands requires a certain level of sailing experience.

Most of the moorings and anchor bays are located in the south of the islands or offer shelter in a northerly direction, but when the wind shifts to south/southwest, small boats may need to seek shelter elsewhere. The good news is that these winds usually last only a few days, after which the wind turns north/northeast again. Occasionally the wind also comes from the southeast and brings hot air and red dust from the Sahara. This affects visibility at sea and tends to occur primarily in August or September on the eastern islands. The channels 56

between the islands are another important aspect to consider when sailing around the Canary Islands: this is where the notorious jet effect forms and the wind force increases again by up to three Beaufort.

Usually the areas affected are recognisable by the formation of ripples and by the spray.

The eight islands in the group, Lanzarote, Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria, El Hierro, La Palma, La Gomera, La Graciosa and Tenerife, offer a wide range of activities and experiences, both on land and at sea. Between the islands and in the bays you can snorkel and enjoy the underwater world of the Canary Islands or explore with a stand up paddle. On the crossings, on the other hand, you can watch turtles, dolphins and whales in the open sea - a unique experience for any sailor. A trip to the Canary Islands begins either on Lanzarote - from here you can explore the eastern islands - or on Tenerife, the gateway to the western islands.

The islands in the east are most exposed to the north-east trade wind.

The starting marina here is Arrecife, from where you can sail to the smaller island of La Graciosa, very close to Lanzarote. La Graciosa attracts visitors with its impressive landscape and the charm of its small fishing communities. Lanzarote is also worth a visit.

The National Park of Timanfaya with its Fire Mountain can be explored on a guided tour. This lies in a lunar landscape shaped by several layers of volcanic ash from previous eruptions. Even today, the heat of the volcano can be felt only a few metres below ground. If you throw

A S A I L I N G PA R A D I S E F O R T H E W H O L E Y E A R - C A N A RY I S L A N D S

branches into a pit, they burn and water, which is led through a pipe into the ground, immediately evaporates in a kind of mini-geyser. In a restaurant on the Fire Mountain, meat is grilled over a hole in the ground from which the heat of the volcano rises.

Another island to the east is Fuerteventura. The coast with its mountains, sand dunes, cacti and palm trees is very reminiscent of the African mainland, to which it is closest of all the Canary Islands. There are also a total of 152 beaches where you can enjoy swimming and snorkelling, especially with 300 days of sunshine and few rainy days a year.

In the west the charter usually starts in Las Galletas on Tenerife. The island is home to the highest peak in Spain, the Pico de Teide, at more than 3700 metres. The largest island of the Canary Islands offers a variety of landscapes - volcanic rocks, snowy mountains, pine forests, subtropical forests, cacti and sandy beaches. The few rain clouds accumulate on the mountains, so there is almost always sunshine in the south of the island. However, the peaks also influence the NE trade winds and bundle them on the east coast into winds of more than 25 knots, whereas in the south of the island there can be down winds.

Besides the typical volcanic rocks, La Palma is a very green island with forests and the well-known banana plantations. Due to its somewhat remote location, La Palma is strongly exposed to the trade winds and the Canary Islands current can also make itself felt with up to 2 knots.

Due to the past volcanic eruptions on the island many beautiful bays

are blocked by rocks, which makes anchoring impossible. So on La Palma there are only a limited number of anchorages with also limited protection.

The islands of La Gomera and El Hierro also belong to the western islands and are the least touristically developed parts of the archipelago - on them you can still find typical Spanish charm in small restaurants.

From the highest mountain of La Gomera you can look down on clear days to the summit of the Teide on Tenerife - the ascent is worthwhile.

Tidal currents are noticeable off the coast, often in combination with the Canary Islands current. The many interesting places on the island can be explored after anchoring on the south coast or entering a harbour. El Hierro is the smallest island of the Canary Islands. It has no beaches, but a beautiful interior with numerous viewpoints.

So if you and your crew have already gained some sailing experience and would like to see something different from the Mediterranean, the Canary Islands are definitely worth a visit with their advanced conditions, modern marinas and breathtaking beauty on land and sea.

Do you like what you’re reading? Sail the Canary Islands with us! https://www.sailogy.com/en/ destination/canary-islands 57

M E S M E R I Z I N G

SARONIC GULF

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MESMERIZING SARONIC GULF

C

hris is a travel influencer from Norway. He’s been sailing across Greece last year. In this trip report, he shares with us what made his sailing trip so special that he’s planning on sailing again next year.

Sailing has been my favourite way of spending holidays for many years. Without too much need for convincing, last summer we rented a catamaran with a group of 10 friends. We decided to set sails from Athens, as we had spent a fantastic holiday in the Cyclades with a smaller group the year before.

The Saronic Gulf is usually a little quieter than the rest of the Aegean Sea, which was very convenient for our group, as we had several newcomers on board!

We sailed directly to our first anchorage at the foot of the historic Poseidon Temple. It offers some of the best sunsets you will ever see and the beach restaurants are perfect for your first dinner. This was a wonderful spot to kick off our sailing week ahead.

From there we caught the west wind and headed off to Hydra Island, an absolute jewel. Our group was quite heterogenous: we had a pregnant lady, a couple, several of our crew members had never set foot on a sailboat before, so we put together a relaxed itinerary that focused on finding beautiful anchorages, with plenty of time for swimming, canoeing and snorkelling. Our boat even had a barbecue on board, which made for some truly memorable evenings under the stars.

Throughout our journey, we explored the picturesque port of Spetses and found ourselves surrounded by dolphins off the coast of Poros. When we finally arrived back on the Greek mainland a week later, we were already planning our next sailing holiday for the following summer! Who knows, if everything goes according to plan, we might even spend two weeks in two different countries!

Follow Chris on Instagram at @thatnorwegiannomad

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