Magister Navis - Sailogy International Edition Issue No. 3

Get inspired. Sail more.

M A G A Z I N E

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I S S U E

N O . 3

Solar Power Brewing at Cooper Island

Island hopping (& eating) in the

CYCLADES My personal journey to the

Yachtmaster Licence

Ten de r to 1

LEGAL NOTICE Editors: Paola Di Pietro, Peter Kollmann-Jehle Project Manager: Paola Di Pietro Art Director & Designer: Yasemin Yavuzbas Image Sourcing: Paola Di Pietro, Yasemin Yavuzbas, Peter Kollmann-Jehle Advertising: Michael Müller, Nicola Pinna Nossai Translations: Paola Di Pietro Image Sourcing: Paola Di Pietro, Yasemin Yavuzbas, Peter Kollmann-Jehle Image sources: shutterstock.com, Sailogy S.A., Master Yachting GmbH, The British Virgin Islands Tourist Board, @annaundmalin, Chris & Dersim, Beyond the Reef, Momentas Guide, Giovanni Pomari, Paolo Traverso, Periklis, Anna-Lena Erbel, Roberto Presotto, Urs Tanner, IRIS Yachtcharter, Istion Yachting ©2021 Sailogy S.A.

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Dear readers, dear friends of Sailogy Filled with a new sense of beginnings, the end of 2021 sets the vibe of what is to come in 2022.

This year has taught us to sail in the midst of the pandemic and we managed to take travellers aboard against all odds. Besides the recent re-opening of many sailing destinations, we’ve finally gone back to visiting boat shows, stepping our feet on exhibition wharves again.

Starting off with the Cannes Yachting Festival

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in France and then the Genoa Salone Nautico in

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o Ac c a r d o | F

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er

Italy, the salty breeze and the smell of teak from the moored boats was positively intoxicating. And

we couldn’t be more excited to finally walk again along the halls at boot Dusseldorf in January after over a year

of waiting.

In this issue, we’ll take a first dive into Caribbean waters. We’ll stop by

for a drink on the sandy shores of Manchioneel Bay, in Cooper Island Beach Club Microbrewery: a family owned eco–resort, committed to supporting sustainable tourism in the British Virgin Islands. After drinking one can get the appetite going, right? So, sailing northward, our magazine will take you to mesmerizing Anegada where you will learn about the most ‘cracking’ lobster restaurants on the island. To inspire the more experienced sailors, this time we have a superb collection of itineraries written in collaboration with local skippers: from the Cyclades with Greek Periklis all the way to the Maddalena Archipelago with Sardinian Paolo, plus a special interview on tips and tricks on the journey to Yacht Master with skipper Giovanni.

So from the Caribbean to the Med, we hope our third issue will inspire you with some tips and ideas for your 2022 sail!

Sincerely, Manlio Accardo

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LIFESTYLE 06

Solar Power Brewing in Cooper Island (BVI)

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Island Hopping (&Eating) In The Cyclades

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On, Above And Underwater

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Creating (Artistic) Underwater Ecosystems

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It’s a Cracking Business

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The Insider’s Guide To Croatian Konobas And Taverns

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That’s The Spirit: BVI Gin!

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Our TOP 5 Nautical Films and TV programmes

PRO 18

In Conversation with BVI-born Captain D’Andra Lewis

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Of Pirates, Palm Trees And Big Plans: Caribbean For Beginners

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Tips On Managing Your Water & Power Supply Onboard With Francesco

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Two Girls, One Boat, No Plan On The Journey Of A Lifetime

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My Personal Journey To The Yachtmaster Licence

SAILING ITINERARIES 54

Maddalena Archipelago: The local’s guide to sailing there

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Winter Sailing Trip Around Mallorca In 7 Days

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A 7-Day Itinerary In The Cyclades With Skipper Periklis

SAILORS STORIES 10

My First Time Sailing Was In...Greece!

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An Unforgettable First Time Onboard

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I Couldn’t Live Without It

SAILOGISING 51

Who Is Who @Sailogy?

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Share Your Sail

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Black Friday Deals Coming!

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SOLAR POW BREWING WELCOME TO COOPER ISLAND BEACH CLUB MICROBREWERY 6

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Never had brewing this sustainable Nestled on the sandy shores of Manchioneel Bay, Cooper Island Beach Club is a family owned eco–resort, committed to supporting sustainable tourism in the British Virgin Islands. Featured on many sailing itineraries, Manchioneel Bay is a natural stop along the Sister Island chain leading to The Baths at Virgin Gorda.

Sustainability is engraved in every single activity run at the resort.

The aim is to reduce the environmental impact without losing on the comfort and modern amenities of a touristic destination. An easy reach from Tortola, ideal for your first night aboard or your last stop before returning your boat to unwind after your sailing charter.

The custom-built microbrewery is an important part of their environmentally sustainable efforts. By serving draft beer only, they no longer import cases of beer to the island or have to dispose of thousands of aluminum cans. Started only with one 500L custom built fermentation vessel, it now has five fermentation vessels producing 2500L of beer at a time using solar power. Six craft beers on tap - usually a Lager, Pilsner, Amber Ale & Best Bitter and our guest beers such as Wheat, Oktoberfest and Stout will feature during the season. The new Turtle IPA was launched in 2017 and $1 from every IPA sold is donated to BVI Sea Turtle conservation.

“After a long and somewhat challenging waiting period for the tourism industry worldwide and all the guests visiting not only Cooper Island but the BVI every year, the team at Cooper are excited to see white sails back in our bay and to return to what we know best – excellent service, fabulous food, home-brewed beer, signature drinks and a wonderful, laid back Caribbean vibe. Welcome back to Cooper Island Beach Club.”

- Operations Manager at Cooper Island Beach Club Drinking sustainably The array of 303 photovoltaic solar panels on the Island help provide 80% of the resort’s power. This, in turn, has saved over 1 million pounds of carbon emissions so far. To help reduce carbon footprint, they make their own triple filtered and treated drinking water to reduce the use of plastic, brew their own beer to avoid alloy cans, source produce locally where possible and grow as much as we can on the island. A GL sand crusher reduces empty glass bottles down to fine sand which is then added to building aggregate for use around the resort. A submerged membrane bioreactor processes their wastewater into 1000GL of clean, recycled irrigation water each day to be used for watering the resort gardens.

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S ol ar Powe r Bre wi ng i n C oop e r Is l a n d

Mooring here Moor-SeaCure Limited maintains 30 mooring balls in the bay; suitable for vessels up to 60ft in length and 20 net tons. The 15 white mooring balls are available on a first-come basis, and tend to be full by 12 noon. The 15 orange buoys at the southern end of bay can be reserved from 7AM on the day via the www.boatyball.com website or phone app.

With BoatyBall membership you can pre-reserve buoys at various locations in the BVI including Cooper Island Beach Club, Leverick Bay Resort, Anegada Reef Hotel, Cane Garden Bay and Great Harbour JVD. Manchioneel Bay is one of the Department of Conservation & Fisheries’ Sea Grass monitoring sites and crucial to the health of the marine environment. Anchoring within the mooring field is strictly prohibited.

Contact Cooper Island Beach Club Manchioneel Bay Cooper Island British Virgin Islands CooperIslandBeachClub.com The 2021 season is reopening on Friday 22nd October 2021

This content was written in collaboration with the British Virgin Islands Tourism Board Tel+44 (0) 207 355 9585 info@bvitourismus.com www.facebook.com/BVITB www.instagram.com/BVItourismus

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MY FIRST TIME SA

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My fi r s t ti me s ail i ng was i n . . .Gre e c e !

AILING WAS IN...

GREECE! C

hris is from Norway and he’s been sailing with his girlfriend Dersim and a crew of friends from Athens at the end of June 2021. They’ve been sailing on a Lagoon 450 via Poseidon Temple to Poros Island and then back to Athens. For Dersim, it was the absolute first time onboard and we’ve interviewed her to find out what it was like as the first time on a sailing holiday.

“If I had to pick a moment of this experience I’ll absolutely never forget, I’d say that just sailing across different islands and seeing how beautiful each one of them is both from afar and then up close is superb. That’s something you don’t get every day” What would you say to others who are thinking of going on a sailing holiday for the first time? Enjoy it because you’re never going to get this type of feeling on any other holiday.

Chris and Dersim have been travelling for quite some time throughout the Med, take a watch at their videos on Instagram and get inspired for some travelling @ldnbruncning

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GREECE ONE COUNTRY 12

FOUR SAILING AREAS

he next sailing summer is sure to come! From Corfu in the west to Kos and Rhodes in the east - Greece offers sailors the perfect choice to provide a tailor-made sailing experience for everyone. No matter whether you are an experienced skipper

with plenty of sea miles or a newcomer at the helm. You have to know when and where. In cooperation with ISTION YACHTING, we have compiled a small overview that first reveals the diversity of this area from west to east and can help you decide with some suggested cruises.

THE IONIAN SEA Whether from Corfu or Lefkas - the west of Greece attracts pleasant sailing conditions even for beginners. Mostly predictable wind conditions ensure relaxed sailing, numerous islands, and the mainland attracts dreamlike bays and green landscape. The facilities are excellent, the distances manageable. Everyone will find their favourite spot here!

Explore the Ionian Islands from Lefkas!

The charter base on Lefkas (Lefkada) island is the ideal starting point for exploring the Ionian Islands, including the famous islands of Zakynthos, Kefalonia in the south and Corfu in the north, as well as a variety of smaller, beautiful islands in between.

With all of these destinations within easy reach, you are free to choose which islands to visit and which itinerary to take!

The fleet in Lefkas is located in the main port of Lefkas Town, with plenty of opportunities for shopping and dining before or after your charter.

For those pressed for time, there is also a charter base in Preveza, just a 10-minute taxi ride from Aktion Airport, which is also where most visitors to Lefkas arrive.

7-DAY EXAMPLE ITINERARY FROM THE ISTION BASE IN LEFKAS LEFKAS → KEFALONIA (FISCARDO) → ZAKYNTHOS → KEFALONIA (AGIA EFTHIMIA) → ITHACA → KALAMOS → LEFKAS • Lefkas → Kefalonia (Fiscardo): 29 NM • Kefalonia → Zakynthos: 43 NM • Zakynthos → Kefalonia (Ag. Efthimia): 37 NM • Kefalonia → Ithaca: 16 NM • Ithaca → Kalamos: 17 NM • Kalamos → Lefkas: 20 NM Sailing Itineraries from Corfu From our base in Corfu sailors with one week typically take in the coast of Corfu and may head down to Lefkas and back. Two week charters can reach the islands further south including Kefalonia and Zakynthos.

The Northern Ionian Islands around Corfu Corfu has many amazing coves and beaches to explore and is a large island that can easily take many days to explore. Heading down to Lefkas will usually take you through the mainland ports of northern Greece including Syvota and Parga and allows you to explore the amazing islands of Paxoi and Antipaxoi along the way.

The Southern Ionian Islands South of Lefkas are Zakynthos and Kefalonia. Both are large well known islands with plenty to of things to do and sites to visit. In between Lefkas and Kefalonia are many smaller islands well worth a visit including the amazing Ithaki and the smaller islands of Kalamos and Kastos.

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Gre e ce – one cou ntr y, fou r s a il i n g a re a s

M AGIS TER NAVIS IS S UE NO. 3

7-DAY EXAMPLE ITINERARY FROM THE ISTION BASE IN CORFU

recommended for light sailing, especially in July and August when

KORFU → PAXOS → LEFKAS (NYDRI) → MEGANISI → LEFKAS

the northerly solid “Meltemi” winds blow in the Cyclades. It is also

MOURTOS → KORFU

suitable for a charter of less than two weeks, as the sailing times

• Korfu → Paxos: 29 NM

between islands and ports are relatively short.

• Paxos → Lefkas (Nydri): 43 NM • Lefkas → Meganisi: 37 NM

You will find breathtaking views of sophisticated island towns,

• Meganisi → Lefkas: 16 NM

ancient temples, Byzantine castles, small fishing ports, and pristine

• Lefkas → Mourtos: 17 NM

anchorages along this route. The annual N-NW Meltemi wind force

• Mourtos → Corfu: 20 NM

is usually no stronger than 4-5, decreasing significantly around the island of Poros and the Methana peninsula. There is also the

THE SARONIC GULF (Aegean Sea)

possibility of light winds from the S-SE, especially near the coast.

Also suitable for all levels of experience and a fantastic way to discover Greece from the water at any season is the Saronic Gulf.

7-DAY ITINERARY FROM THE BASE IN ALIMOS, ATHENS.

Well protected and with plenty of highlights, it’s an excellent spot!

ARGOSARONIC GULF OR THE SARONIC ISLANDS ATHENS → EPIDAVROS → HYDRA → SPETSES → POROS → AEGINA

Explore the Saronic Gulf from Athens!

→ ATHENS

Athens is easily accessible from any country in the world via

• Athens → Epidavros: 31 NM

the international airport. Many visitors reserve a few days at the

• Epidavros → Hydra: 32 NM

beginning or end of their sailing trip in Greece to explore this

• Hydra → Spetses: 15 NM

remarkable city with its ancient ruins, spectacular museums, but also

• Spetses → Poros: 26 NM

its vibrant nightlife!

• Poros → Aegina: 13 NM • Aegina → Athens: 17 NM

At the inner-city Alimos Marina on the west coast, you’ll find the Athens fleet: ideally located for sailing directly to the islands of the

Must-Visit:

Saronic Gulf or sailing to the western Cyclades. Alternatively, you can

EPIDAVROS

start from Lavrion further east.

Ancient Theatre • Little Theatre • Sanctuary Of Asklepios Greek Festival • Αgricultural exhibition

The islands of the Saronic Gulf (Aegina, Poros, Hydra, Spetses) and the coast of the Peloponnese offer a calm sailing area, largely

HYDRA INSEL

shield from strong winds. The Saronic route around the gulf is highly

Town of Hydra • Kamini fishing village “Miaoulia” festival • Easter festivities

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Gre e ce – one cou ntr y, fou r s a il i n g a re a s

SPETSES INSEL

You can start your holiday by exploring the unspoilt bays and small

House of Bouboulina • House of Hatzigiannis Mexis Church

harbours of the Gulf of Volos. The beautiful green islands of the

of Panayia Armata • Cathedral of Ayios Nikolaos Old Harbor •

Sporades, including Skopelos, Alonissos and Skyros, then invite you

Kounoupitsa village

to visit them. Sheltered and unspoilt anchorages along the way and white sandy beaches are a common feature of all these islands.

POROS INSEL Russian Dockyard • Temple of Poseidon • Monastery of Zoodochos

The area is famous for the Alonissos Marine National Park. Dolphins,

Pigi Lemonodasos (aka Lemon Forest) • Ancient city of Troezen

sea turtles and the endangered Monachus or Mediterranean seal live

Theatre of Ancient Epidaurus

here. If you are lucky, you may encounter some of these beautiful and friendly sea creatures on your trip.

AEGINA INSEL Τemple of Aphea (daughter of Zeus) • Archaeological Museum Agios

7-DAY CRUISE PROPOSAL FROM VOLOS

Nektarios Monastery • Wildlife Hospital • Paleochora International

VOLOS → AMALIAPOLI (MITZELA) → SKOPELOS → ALONNISSOS

Music Festival • Pistachio Festival

KYRA PANAGIA → SKIATHOS → PALEO TRIKERI ISLAND - VOLOS

SPORADES AND CYCLADES – Island Paradises for Advanced

7-DAY CRUISE PROPOSAL FROM SKIATHOS

Sailors in the Aegean Sea

SKIATHOS → ALONISSOS → KYRA PANAGIA → SKYROS → PERISTERA

No matter which of the two island groups gets your interest,

→ SKOPELOS → SKATZOURA → PSATHOURA → SKIATHOS

experienced sailors will get their money’s worth here! Whether sailing

• Skiathos → Alonissos: 21 NM

from Skiathos or Volos to the Sporades or from Lavrion, Paros or

• Alonissos → Kyra Panagia: 31 NM

Mykonos to the Cyclades, here you’ll find fun time for all tastes.

• Kyra Panagia → Skyros: 11 NM • Skyros → Peristera: 37 NM

The Sporades

• Peristera → Skopelos: 14 NM

Volos offers fantastic sailing for one and two-week charters, and

• Skopelos → Skantzoura: 18 NM

the itineraries are usually similar to those on the nearby island of

• Skantzoura → Psathoura: 18 NM

Skiathos. You can start your holiday by enjoying the unspoilt bays

• Psathoura → Skiathos: 34 NM

and small harbours of the Gulf of Volos. The beautiful green islands of the Sporades such as Skiathos, Skopelos, Alonissos and Skyros then

The Cyclades

invite you to visit them. Sheltered and unspoilt anchorages and white

The Cyclades are a group of islands located in the middle of the

sandy beaches are a common feature of all these islands.

beautiful Aegean Sea. They are world-famous for the beauty of the

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rugged rocky landscape that blends with the crystal clear sea, for the

DODECANESE - Pearls in the East Aegean Sea

traditional whitewashed houses and windmills, and for the endless

Further east in the Aegean Sea and still an absolute dream

opportunities they offer for exploration and sightseeing. Of course,

destination in the late season are the islands of the Dodecanese.

some of the islands are also known for their vibrant nightlife!

A charter there starts best from Kos or Rhodes. Kos is the island of Hippocrates, who is considered the founder of modern medicine.

Sailing in this archipelago requires experienced sailors. The winds can easily reach force 6-7 N-NW, especially in July and August, while the norm is force 4-5 N-NW (Meltemi annual winds). If you decide to sail in the Cyclades, you shouldn’t miss visiting Paros, Santorini, Mykonos, Serifos, and Milos. But to be honest, every island in the Cyclades is a hidden gem to explore!

A crossroads of civilisations, from Neolithic times to the end of 20th-century colonialism, Kos proudly houses impressive remains of outstanding ancient monuments and many neo-colonial Italianate buildings that still dominate central points of the town with their distinctive and beautiful features architectural style.

7-DAY SAMPLE ITINERARY FROM THE BASE IN MYKONOS CYCLADES MYKONOS → NAXOS → KOUFONISIA → PAROS/ANTIPAROS → SIFNOS → SYROS → RINIA → DELOS MYKONOS

South of Kos lies Rhodes, the largest of the Dodecanese islands, rich in history and full of life! A week-long sailing trip from Kos to Rhodes usually includes the island of Symi and its picturesque harbour, guaranteed to be remembered for its combination of colour and 16

architectural grace, and the island of Nysiros with its still active volcano!

In summer, the prevailing wind in the region is the Meltemi, which blows from the northwest, usually at force 4-6. In spring and autumn, the wind usually blows from the southeast at around force 2-4. There are numerous bays and safe anchorages in the Dodecanese islands where you can find shelter in rough winds.

7-DAY SAMPLE ITINERARY FROM THE BASE ON KOS - DODECANESE ISLANDS KOS → PSERIMOS → KALYMNOS → LEROS → PATMOS → LIPSOS → KOS • Kos → Pserimos: 9 NM • Pserimos → Kalymnos: 8 NM • Kalymnos → Leros: 10 NM • Leros → Patmos: 23 NM • Patmos → Lipsos: 10 NM • Lipsos → Kos: 32 NM Explore the Dodecanese Islands from Rhodes!

Rhodes is undoubtedly the most popular, cosmopolitan island of the Dodecanese. It features one of the most well-preserved medieval castles in Europe (a World Heritage Site in fact), a castle that is still pretty much the center of the main city of Rhodes. Once the base of operations of the Knights Order of Saint John, the Medieval Old Town is now packed with restaurants, bars and sunbaked, bougainvillea-filled verandas. Studded with monuments from the classical to the hellenistic to Byzantium to crusader and ottoman times, Rhodes is definitely a must for anyone even remotely interested in history.

Our yacht charter base on the island of Rhodes is perfect for exploring the Dodecanese Islands including the popular islands of Kos and Patmos, as well as the relaxed islands of Leros and Symi.

Rhodes is easily accessible by charter flights from many European countries and is a short connecting flight for those flying in to Athens.

7 DAY SAMPLE ITINERARY FROM ISTION BASE AT RHODES – DODECANESE ISLANDS RHODOS → SYMI → NISIROS → KOS → TILOS → CHALKI → RHODOS • Rhodos → Symi: 23 NM • Symi → Nisiros: 32 NM • Nisiros → Kos: 21 NM • Kos → Tilos: 35 NM • Tilos → Chalki: 14 NM • Chalki → Rhodos: 37 NM One country and so many different sailing areas if there isn’t something for everyone!

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IN CONVERSATION WITH BVI-BORN CAPTAIN

D’ANDRA LEWIS Hello my name is D’Andra Lewis and I’m from the British Virgin Islands. I grew up by the bayside. After school, my grandfather would take me to the beach via cycling/walking, driving or boating. Even though the beach was a five-minute drive, going by boat was long and quite an adventure. There was always something new to see, whether a shark, a turtle, a flying fish or even a sting-ray leaping out the water. That’s when I fell in love with the ocean.

We often talk about sailing as a school of life, rewarding, essential. Has this been true for you?

Yes, this proved to be true.

Four main things in life sailing taught me are: • How to be self-confident.

Sailing builds your courage and mental strength to overcome any obstacles such as docking or anchoring a vessel .

As I got older, my foster dad would take his sons and me to work with him. We would go to Nanny Cay every weekend to service or do repairs on different catamarans. Once the job was done, he would teach us the course from Nanny Cay to Marina Cay by letting us navigate the vessel on our own. When I came of age to join the Kids At Sea programme (KATS), he ensured that we all enrolled. I attended all their programmes, from basic to advanced sailing, and excelled in all my areas.

• Responsibility.

While sailing, your responsibilities are limitless. You are not only responsible for the vessel, but you’re responsible for every life on board. The safety of the passengers, the crew and the vessel all take priority over your very own life.

• Critical Thinking.

Sailing prompts you to make quick decisions. There can be times when the wind changes your sailing course or you find yourself in an emergency. As a captain, your response should be quick to ensure a safe passage.

• Teamwork.

There’s no I in TEAM. Therefore, a captain is as good as his/her crew.

You can be an awesome captain. However, how can you encourage and motivate your crew to perform at their very best without good leadership skills?

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I n C onve r s ation with BV I-b or n C aptai n D ’A n d ra L e w i s

What do you think attracts women to sailing? Maybe a sense of independence, freedom, what do you think...?

I think feminism plays a significant role when it comes to a woman being attracted to sailing. Being able to prove that women can and should be treated as equal in male-dominated careers. It boosts our self-confidence, independence and sense of control.

“Being able to prove that women can and should be treated as equal in male-dominated careers. It boosts our self-confidence, independence and sense of control.”

From a technical point of view, what do you prefer? Monohulls or Catamarans? Or does this depend on the sailing area / purpose of the trip?

Catamarans have always been one of my favourites, especially when it comes to luxury. They have more stability, space, are easier to manoeuvre and allow you anchorage in shallow areas. However, I prefer luxury power yachts.

Many women have achieved leading roles in sailing. Ellen MacArthur from the UK who entered ocean racing at a very young age and held world speed records. Or Isabelle Autissier from France, the first

“It’s always an overwhelming and prideful feeling to see passengers or locals amazed by my performance at the helm. This motivates me to perfect my skills and encourage other females to pursue their careers in a maledominated field.”

Do you think that in the future there will be more and more women experiencing sailing whether for leisure or at a more competitive level?

Certainly, in the powerboat industry, there’s an increasing number of female captains. There are a few speed boats and sloop racers.

In the BVI, we have seen an increase of female students taking advantage of the maritime courses and internships provided

by HLSCC. What is your advice for women who are attracted to sailing but have not yet tried it yet?

Never be afraid. Sailing is your first-class ticket to an unplanned adventure. As Robert Brault said “Life is like sailing. You can use the wind to go in any direction”

woman to sail around the world on a sailing boat.

Do you think we’re seeing an important change leading to a growing interest in the world of sailing on the part of women?

Of course, we’ve had many more female captains since then taking the helm of vessels. I’m fond of Captain Kate McCue, the first American woman to become captain of a mega Cruise ship. In March

Wer D’Andra auf Social Media folgen möchte SkippaLul_284 D’Andra Lewis (Lulu) Snapchat @lul_est97

2020, she was the captain of Celebrity Edge Cruise-liner, where most of the officers in the bridge were females.

You’ve recently taken part in a talk hosted by the BVI Ministry of Health & Social Development to celebrate women in maledominated careers. What is your personal experience in engaging in a traditionally male-dominated field such as that of sailing?

It’s always an overwhelming and prideful feeling to see passengers or locals amazed by my performance at the helm. This motivates me to perfect my skills and encourage other females to pursue their careers

This content was written in collaboration with the British Virgin Islands Tourism Board Tel+44 (0) 207 355 9585 info@bvitourismus.com www.facebook.com/BVITB www.instagram.com/BVItourismus

in a male-dominated field.

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ISLAND HOPPING

(&EATING) IN THE CYCLADES

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Is l and h oppi ng ( & e ati ng ) i n th e Cyc l a de s

Dal calpo del porto in Folegandros Folegrandos is a small Greek island in the Aegean Sea. Together with Sikinos, Ios, Anafi and Santorini is a southern island part of the Cyclades. The small port from the island bustles with bars, hotels and restaurants. An absolute worth a visit is Dal calpo del Porto, located close to the port and only 10 minutes away from the main town by car. It’s the perfect story after a day sunbathing on your deck. My recommend is their french potatoes and calamarakia (fried squid rings). And of course their saganaki cheese - simple and beloved traditional Greek appetizer: Crunchy on the outside, melted cheese on the inside and warm.

Restaurant Ostria in Kythons Our next foodey stop is in Kythons, a beautiful mountainous island right on the west part of the Cyclades. Its wild natural landscape and selection of stunning bays to stop by for a swim and some unwinding time, makes this island quite unique in the Cyclades group. Being quite close to Athens, is often very popular and finding the right place to stop for a bite can be challenging. You won’t be let down here in Restaurant Ostria in Merichase, a small town by the sea. If you love your local fish dishes, this is the place to be.

I definitely recommend trying the grilled calamari and the risotto with shrimps and tomatoes. The views from here are special as well: you’ll be sipping your ouzo whilst looking at exquisite sunsets.

Ammoudi Fish Tavern in Santorini Ammoudi is one of the best places on Santorini island to watch the amazing sunsets. Probably one of my favourite views in the Cyclades from here. It’s a bit of a walk up the stairs (but what isn’t in Santorini?) but trust me it’s absolutely worth it! You can choose from a selection of Greek dishes and whatever you’ll choose you won’t get disappointed. Start your night with a bottle of white wine and tuna carpaccio. The staff is very knowledgeable and friendly, you will get excellent service and the staff will make you feel at home.

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Ouzeri Halaris in Paros Paros Island is well known for its gorgeous food and nightlife. Ouzeri Halaris offers just a perfectly comfy atmosphere after your day sunbathing or swimming. Ideal location near the port of Naousa. At Ouzeri Halaris you will enjoy exquisite fish and seafood. My recommendation is their mussel pasta and pariani salad: the salad epitomizes the best products Paros has to offer.

Marinated ripe and crisp tomatoes, salty and lightly pickled samphire (which grows abundant near the rocks by the sea here), tiny briny caper flowers, all tossed together with carob rusks and sprinkled with soft and creamy “xynomyzithra” cheese on top. I can say this salad is a decent representative of Greek super-foods.

Livadia Restaurant Cafe in Paros Another great option when visiting Paros Island is Livadia Restaurant, located right at the main port of the island, at Paroikia. I recommend sitting outdoors so you can enjoy the view of the waves right in front of you and of course the fresh air. Here I suggest the local and Mediterranean cuisine, especially their grilled fish and grilled squid combined with white house wine, delicious and with unique flavours. It offers a great selection for breakfast, the perfect way to start the day sailing!

Gialos Restaurant in Milos North of the Sea of Crete, you’ll find the volcanic island of Milos, in the southwestermost part of the Cyclades group. Our restaurant, Gialos, sits in a special location on the island, Pollonia, overlooking the sea. An extended menu of traditional Greek favourites, a variety of wine selections and the magical view make this a place worth stopping bite for a proper meal or even for small bites on the way. It is reasonably considered as one of the best restaurants in Milos. I would heartily recommend the calamari with lemon sauce and sepia.

About me…

“This is George and I’m from beautiful Greece. I decided to become a food blogger because I love travelling and good food. So I combined those two things in blogging.

I really enjoy trying new food from the countries and the islands I visit. I believe that food is one of the most interesting parts of every culture. Of course, I love eating my country’s traditional dishes and Greek cuisine is one of my favourites. What makes Greek food special for me is its simple ingredients that are carefully put together in a harmonious combination of flavours.”

If you want to explore Greek food and drinks together with a real Greek, check out George’s Instagram page on @food.life.travelling

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M AGIS TER NAVIS AU SGABE NO.3

ON, ABOVE UNDERW AND

We mostly move above water when sailing - fortunately! Otherwise, 99 per cent of the time, something will have gone wrong. But that’s not enough for some: it’s a question of being either well high above the waves or way under the sea. Sailing + cruises, one could define them, i.e. sailing topped up with additional sports are becoming more popular. Let’s take a closer look at these two combos.

24

WATER

On, ab ove and u n de rw at e r

„

Many sailors at anchor explore the underwater landscape with their diving goggles and a snorkel. Doing the same with a scuba tank

is much more exciting and varied. From “above”, you experience a beautiful bay in a way. Exploring it while diving as well is a wonderful addition.” Urs Tanner knows exactly the feeling. Onboard his Lagoon catamaran, you will find things that you won’t find in the shipyard’s equipment catalogue. Even at first glance, you can see the compressor for filling the diving tanks. Underwater, too, the crew here around Kos in the East Aegean explores the bays and diving spots of the Greek region not only above the water surface. Ever since he got his diving licence in Australia in 1995, he’s had a fascination for the underwater world. Four years later, when he obtained his sailing and boating licence, it quickly became clear that the combination had potential. Was one of the two not enough for him? “No, definitely not. The combination of the rest phases that always occur in sailing and the variety in diving complement each other to create something exceptional.“ Resting is not something skipper Marvin particularly enjoys - and underwater, you’ll often look for him in vain. He also offers Sail &Dive experiences, but for him the action above water is in the foreground he combines sailing and kiting. “Sailing takes you to hidden beaches and places. And then discovering the ideal kite spot there is a fantastic experience,” the well-travelled sailing skipper is convinced, despite his young years. He would love to kite every day. At least since he - now as the owner of a catamaran - follows his vocation entirely independently.

Just like Urs and his catamarans, he is on the move in Greece and the Caribbean, mostly on the hunt for the ideal kiting spot.

New concepts The two concepts have one thing in common - they reveal new, more holistic experiences with the element that all sailors can appreciate.

While simply sailing is enough for many skippers, some are looking for a 360° more comprehensive experience. “More sea is always possible”, so to speak...But, does this change the way they experience the sea?

“Yes,” answers Urs, “I think it changes the view of the underwater world and nature. Diving from a sailing catamaran certainly promotes an understanding of “anchoring well”. Almost with every dive, we use the anchor chain as a descent or ascent aid. Often we then dive to the anchor to check if it is holding. You can observe live how the substrate influences the hold of an anchor.

„Sailing takes you

to hidden beaches and places. And then discovering the ideal kite spot there is a fantastic experience“ 25

M AGIS TE R NAVIS IS S UE NO. 3

But it also shows what damage an anchor can do if accidentally anchored on a “more sensitive substrate”. And finally, an unfortunately well-known point - the rubbish on the seabed - unfortunately we encounter this underwater again and again and at certain tourist locations very often. A point which certainly leads to reflection and more conscious handling.”

In the summer, he travels around Greece with his boat. Paros and Naxos are the kite spots that immediately come to mind. His Sail&Kite tours are not suitable for beginners, but those who master the board well have the chance of spots that remain mostly undiscovered and inaccessible to land-based kitesurfers. In winter, we go to the Caribbean. The great thing is that the board is easy to stow away, and you can take it anywhere. The Greek kite summer can look like this: Mykonos, Paros, Naxos, Kofenesia and back again. Six-day kiting with seven-day charter.

Wicked spots like the “Blue Lagoon”. In winter, it’s over the Atlantic, to the Caribbean. You can get free cabins on his kite trips via his website staysaltyyachting.com. And double the freedom on the water at the same time.

In summer in the Mediterranean, in winter on the Canary Islands. The “Diving and Sailing” package, which makes up about a third of the charter weeks, is well received by divers and sailors. Many find their way to the other via the one. Where do you find the best spots?

The best spots “There are many areas on our planet that are well suited for sailing and diving. Primarily we offer Sail & Dive in Greece, the Canary Islands and the Caribbean. In Greece, we mainly dive ship and aircraft wrecks that sank voluntarily or involuntarily during the Second World War or in the recent past. Besides the well known “crystal clear water”, Greece also offers many caves for diving. The volcanic history of the islands has created something unique here. On the Canary Islands, we mainly dive for “bigger fish”. A dive where we don’t see rays is rather a rarity.

The well-known coloured corals are rather rare, as the islands are too young. But many years ago, the lava flows, which cooled down in the sea, created a fascinating underwater world. The northern part of Tenerife offers dive sites with unique rock formations. And finally, a few words about the Caribbean ... Corals and a variety of fish dominate the dives here. We find diving in the “Virgin Islands”, Guadeloupe or Martinique particularly attractive - it is simply a dream to dive into 27-degree water and become a part of this unique underwater world.”

Popular with groups With Urs, too, the available places are somewhat more limited than with a regular charter. On the Lagoon Cats, you can accommodate up to six guests. Here you also have a mobile diving compressor and the necessary equipment such as a tender lift (hydraulic bathing platform), diving bottles, weights and the appropriate emergency equipment. For those who don’t have any previous experience, you can get the “Open Water Diver” in a fast-track course 3 to 4 days before your trip. But to make the most of it, you need a little experience, as some diving sites go down to more than 18 metres. About half of the charter guests in a season use the option, most of them occasional divers.

“Hardcore divers” are less our guests, as they have the demand to complete three or more dives per day. And: safety is a top priority! That doesn’t fit into our programme,” notes the Swiss.

“From our point of view, you’ll always find a dive guide onboard who knows the area well and has completed full diving training. This way, we can guarantee the safety of our diving guests - which is very important for us, especially in the more challenging areas, such as the Canary Islands.”

The passion for the element that sailors already appreciate can certainly be further explored, whether above or below water. And if not, then add new aspects. It’s best to find out for yourself whether this is necessary, but the possibilities are there in any case. Whether in Greece, on the Canary Islands, in the Caribbean, among corals or high above the waves with the power of the wind, respect and connection with the sea are all elements sailing, diving and kiting have in common. For sure.

And for kiting? Marvin has been fascinated by the water sport since he first stood on a board seven years ago in Cartagena, Colombia; he deepened his knowledge in Egypt, the Caribbean, Greece and Mexico.

26

More about Sail & Dive: www.tamiro-catamaran.com More about Sail & Kite: www.staysaltyyachting.com

WE TAKE CARE OF EVERYTHING! We at Magic Sailing Charter know how important your holidays are, that’s why we do our best to make them unforgettable. Enjoy your sailing holiday aboard our catamarans.

OUR FLEET Lagoon 40, 42, 450, 50, 52F; Fountaine Pajot 40 (motorboat) Oceanis Beneteau 55 (sailing boat) www.magicsailingcharter.it +393880905374 Info@magicsailingcharter.it

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MAGI STER NAVIS AUSGABE NO.3

CREATING

(ARTISTIC)

UNDERWATER ECOSYSTEMS It’s a pleasure for us to bump into this organization that’s creatively come up with an original way of caring for the seafloor and marine ecosystems in the Caribbean….Let us introduce you to Beyond the Reef!

In a nutshell, Beyond The Reef works to create a diverse reef ecosystem for marine species to inhabit and thrive in where the seafloor would otherwise remain desolate and damaged. All their projects are geared to simultaneously encourage local community education and pride in the surrounding underwater habitat.

Their core values could be summed up in: • BUILD to enhance OCEAN LIFE • RECYCLE to reduce WASTE • ART to create TOURISM • OUTREACH to EDUCATE COMMUNITY Recycle small items in conjunction with concrete as well as larger items such as derelict boats and additional materials that would otherwise end up as waste in landfills - how unique!

The latter point is particularly interesting as it’s got snorkelers and divers in mind ensuring that what you’re going to experience underwater is actually beautiful to see and will generate positive awareness (and responsible tourism as a side effect). Involving local children in the design and artwork of the coral structures and boats helps to educate future generations on the need to protect their oceans both locally and beyond.

Beyond the Reef’s founders are a unique group of collaborators who are passionate about the ocean. To understand the ins and outs of how the organization functions, we’ve met Kendyl Berna, one of the founders at Beyond the Reef.

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C re ati ng ( ar ti s tic) Unde r wate r Ec o s y s t e m s

INTERVIEW WITH KENDYL BERNA, FOUNDER AT BEYOND THE REEF

and even ingestion. Within the past few months alone, Beyond The Reef has been called to untangle both a whale and two turtles from within fishing ropes that have gotten deeply tied around their fins and flippers.

Each week, we send out a team of divers to the hard to reach outer islands within the BVI that tend to trap most of the garbage and fishing gear. They trek across the island’s coasts and look in the shallows to identify ropes, nets and pots and then remove them. Most often the garbage gets built up on the windward side of the island, but they have to anchor the boats on the leeward side for safety purposes, so it’s a lot of trekking debris over a hill! Not an easy job.

Tell us a little about yourself, what brought you to found Beyond the Reef?

I met Chris Juredin while working on a documentary TV show in the Caribbean. Shortly after, Hurricanes Irma and Maria happened which completely decimated the island and its reefs. Chris had been involved in the BVI marine sector and conservation for many years including the sinking of the Kodiak Queen, but after seeing the devastation from the hurricanes and the number of vessels it wrecked, he suggested creating artificial reefs on a much bigger scale. So, we brought our skill sets together and also recruited the help of Laura Arton who is an Oceanographer and Dive Instructor in the BVI who helps make many of our days to day operations happen.

In what seas, do you operate?

We currently operate in the British Virgin Islands waters but are expanding to have a US-based nonprofit as well.

Beyond the Reef works to remove fishing gears from BVI waters... how does it practically work and what have you achieved so far?

“Ghost Fishing” refers to derelict, abandoned or lost fishing gear in the marine environment that continues to trap fish and animals for years and years after they were originally set for use. This abandoned gear such as nets, traps and pots not only attracts, traps, entangles and potentially kills marine life, but it also often smothers fragile marine environments such as coral reefs.

Within the BVI, ghost pots are the greatest threat to species of fish, lobsters and conch, while ropes and nets are a greater threat to turtles, sharks, dolphins, whales and even sea birds due to both entanglement

“Some friends who have made this ship their home” You’re actively involved in coral reef conservation. Can you tell us a little a bit about what your project is all about?

We are involved in multiple types of coral reef restoration. Our most notable and interesting is our artificial reefs including the “Willy T” and the “Sharkplaneos”. After the hurricanes, we took the old Willy T which had been washed ashore for over a year damaging the coastline and turned it into a massive pirate ship. This required floating, re-patching, and then doing an intensive art and sculpture build on the ship before re-sinking it. It has now been at the bottom of the ocean at 60 feet for 2 years in what was once a damaged part of the seabed, and it is now flourishing. It’s really incredible to see the growth that has happened on the vessel and the amount of life that it is now home to.

The “Sharkplaneos” were also damaged aeroplanes that we realized looked a bit like sharks! So, we converted 3 aeroplanes into different shark species from around the BVI. We also hoped that this would bring some attention to shark conservation in the BVI. We ask that every diver on any of these “Art Reef” sites (including the Kodiak Queen) donate $5 as an admission fee which then gets donated directly to local kids swim programs, as many children in the BVI don’t actually know how to swim.

“This abandoned gear such as nets, traps and pots not only attracts, traps, entangles and potentially kills marine life, but it also often smothers fragile marine environments such as coral reefs.”

29

M AGIS TER NAVIS IS S UE NO. 3

We are also involved in the treatment of Stony Coral Tissue Loss

And all of us think the shark tagging initiative is fun, because sharks

Disease which is a relatively new disease that’s been plaguing

are always fun and under-researched, especially in the BVI.

stony corals in the Virgin Islands and Florida. Its still not completely understood how it spreads, but we do know that applying an antibiotic paste can help slow the spread, so along with the government, volunteers and other local NPO’s we are trying to halt its spread.

In a nutshell, what can the sailor visiting the Caribbean do in practical terms to support the efforts of organizations like yours?

We welcome anyone visiting the BVI to get in touch! We took a bit of a setback with our swim donations program since tourism has slowed down due to Covid, but we would love to see more people on our dive sites spreading the word. If they continue to be successful we will continue to do more! We also encourage every sailor to pick up whatever trash they can when they can. It may save an animal. Also, make sure not to anchor on any coral reef!

“Excuse me sir, I think you have some stuff growing on your face... 5 months under the sea has led to some sponge growth out of his orifices and we couldn’t be happier.”

What’s the project you’re most proud of?

Kendyl loves the artificial reefs and how they bring art, conservation, interactivity and donations for children’s swim programs together. Chris is really passionate about cleaning our oceans and removing the ghost

Are things looking up for the future? Can we feel confident we

nets, traps and pots from them and is proud of how much his team has

can over time swim in cleaner seas and enjoy the sightings of

been able to accomplish this year. Laura’s passion is coral and trying

more and more marine species?

to save our local reefs while understanding more about them, so she

The ocean is incredibly resilient. If you even leave it alone for a few

would say the Stony Coral Tissue Loss Disease treatment.

months it can bounce back. We are at a point right now where we

30

C re ati ng ( ar ti s tic) Unde r wate r Ec o s y s t e m s

can either continue to exploit it or we can give it a rest. The best thing we can each do individually for the ocean is eating less commercially caught fish. This is where almost all of the debris that ends up in our waters comes from. The amount of by-catch that comes from many

At a Glance BVI Art Reef

mass commercial fishing practices is astounding. So I would say what we can each individually do is educate ourselves on where our seafood

“This project breaks new ground here in the BVI... In my

is coming from and encourage our local restaurants and grocery stores

years in the Territory, this is the first time a proposed ship

to provide that information. There are multiple websites you can quickly

sinking has undergone such a detailed planning process...

lookup on your phone that will provide you with a lot of information on

I have no doubt this will be a successful undertaking that

which fish might be best to buy depending on where in the world you

will set the standards and will be used as a guide for all

live!

future artificial reef projects in the BVI.” —Clive Petrovic, ARK, Marine Biologist & Environmental Consultant

You can learn more about the amazing work Kendyl and her team have been doing and how you can help, check the Beyond the Reef website or follow them on Instagram @1Beyondthereef (you won’t get enough of their videos!)

An underwater art gallery amidst the beautiful blue water of Virgin Gorda.

A historical World War II ship converted to an artificial reef and art canvas.

A WWII warship could mobilize a global network of researchers, philanthropists and artists... to solve marine health problems through the Power of Play?

“This ship will quickly become a premier dive site, perhaps even rivalling the Rhone as an internationally recognized attraction.”

— Clive Petrovic, ARK Founding Member, Marine Biologist & Environmental Consultant

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M AGIS TER NAVIS IS S UE NO. 3

IT’S A CRACKING BUSINESS Potter’s by the Sea Located at Setting Point, Anegada. Just to the west of the government ferry dock. Want to dine with your feet in the Caribbean sand? At Potter’s by the Sea, you can dig your toes into the sand as you dine on the beach under the starlit evening sky.

All their food is prepared fresh daily. You watch as your lobster is pulled fresh from the sea and cooked on our open charcoal B.B.Q. grills. Most of the entrees are cooked on open barbecue grills using special wood, collected from the interior of the island, which gives a very special flavour. http://pottersanegada.com/

Instead of the volcanic hills of Tortola, Anegada is the only coral island in the British Virgin Islands, dotted with low loblolly, turpentine trees, sea grape and wild orchids.

In a fortuitous series of events, Anegada was not affected back in 2017 when Hurricane Irma hit other islands of the BVI volcanic chain. So everything that made Anegada special remained open for business since. This is true also of its wealth of exquisite lobster restaurants.

While many of the restaurants feature seafood including the succulent Caribbean spiny lobster, Anegada is an island that is the most popular location for lobster. Lobster fishermen here get lobsters from areas around the island. We’ve made a special shortlist of some of Anegada’s most beloved restaurants for a lobster treat: 32

Anegada Riff Hotel Finding an ideal romantic hotel in Anegada does not have to be difficult.

Plus you’ll get a truly special lobster dinner. You can get there with your catamaran or sailing boat and after settling down you can take a dinghy to the shore. Travellers who have been there claiming the lobster never tasted this good anywhere else they ate it. You could see on the deck two guys cleaning freshly caught lobster and grilling in big barrel-like grills. Experience not to be missed.grills. Experience not to be missed.

It’s a cr ack i n g b u s i n e s s

https://www.anegadareef.com/

Die Hummerfalle – Lobster Trap The Lobster Trap is a captivatingly beautiful restaurant situated at the water’s edge in Anegada. The main dining area is located over the water and gives guests a full view of amazing sunsets and moonlight dining.

A nicely built jetty reaches out into the harbour with a hand-painted sign reading ‘Lobster Trap’. The speciality of the house is BIG DADDY lobsters. For $50 you get a three-course meal of green salad, bread, lobster and dessert. https://www.facebook.com/thelobstertrapbvi/

Want to get in the mood for some lobster at home, perhaps as you think of your next sail to the British Virgin Islands?

We’ve asked the expert, here’s Lawrence recipe from the Anegada Reef Hotel.

Ingredients Fresh lobster Garlic cloves Butter

Preparation

Split your fresh lobster in half and remove the insides, that are non edible. Wrap the shell side in foil leaving the flesh part not covered.

Wonky Dog The Wonky Dog bar and restaurant is on the water’s edge at Benders Point next to the mooring field. Make sure you try their lobster special combined with their pina coladas and the views overlooking the anchorage and sunsets. Basically a must-visit! http://www.thewonkydog.com/

Now prepare your barbeque grill using your favourite wood. The hotter the better. Using a paper towel remove the excess water from the flesh side of the lobster.

Place your lobster on the grill, foil side down.

Cover the grill right away and let it cook for 15mins on hot fire.

Using a paper towel remove excess water and liquid from the lobsters once again.

Baste lobsters with drawn butter (add garlic if desired).

This content was written in collaboration with the British Virgin Islands Tourism Board Tel+44 (0) 207 355 9585 info@bvitourismus.com

Cook for another 15 mins or until meat pulls away from the shell. Now remove from the grill and take the foil off and plate lobster to your desire.

Baste once again with drawn butter and garnish how you see fit.

www.facebook.com/BVITB www.instagram.com/BVItourismus

33

M AGIS TER NAVIS AU SGABE NO.3

OF PIRATES, PALM TREES AND BIG PLANS:

CARIBBEAN FOR BEGINNERS W

hen Christopher Columbus first set foot on the soil of what he thought was India in 1492, entering the

“New World” for the first time (in what is now the Bahamas), he was probably unaware of what a paradise he had discovered. And even if he was, it was undoubtedly a long way to the place that is the definition of a holiday paradise for so many sailors today. In the centuries following this historic event, the Caribbean was a place for adventurers and pirates, slave traders and plantation owners, the scene of conflicts, the source of untold riches and a place where the rigid class structures of old Europe sometimes became blurred. A place where pirates, privateers and settlers sought wealth or freedom, happiness or even just a new beginning. And where the powers that determined the course of the world at that time fought out their conflicts. First the Spanish, then the French, British and Dutch.

They all left their mark on the islands’ heritage, which have lost none of their fascination over the centuries.

And anyone who swims underwater with a snorkel or takes a dive today will find the legacy of those who sailed through these waters. Where divers today enjoy the fascination of the underwater world in the Caribbean, the wrecks of proud ships are tourist attractions that show how merciless the competition between nations was.

Where once you’d find gold, tobacco, sugar ear, rum and people trading, today a true paradise opens up to those relax- and holiday seekers.

Who wants to reach the most incredible places under sail and seek ultimate relaxation on white dream beaches with a painkiller in their hand?

34

Of pi r ate s , pal m tre e s and b ig pl ans : C ar i b b e an for b e g i n n e rs

A DIVERSE ECOSYSTEM OF ISLANDS As diverse as the powers that shaped the region’s destiny are the influences of the colonial power resident on each island. Whether Spanish, French or English in character, the friendliness of its inhabitants, the hospitality and the relaxed rhythm run like a red thread through the island world off the coast of the American continent. Whether in the excellent

The short distances, the marinas and harbours, and the buoy fields could bring back memories of those in the Mediterranean Sea. If you need it, you can always find a bar or restaurant on the beach. These ratios, unique by Caribbean standards, bring a lot of popularity. As a result, prices and the number of charter yachts are relatively high. So a buoy f ield can be full even in the afternoon.

cuisine or the official and Creole languages, the details and nuances, the sound and taste, the mentality change everywhere according to the colonial heritage. And that is precisely what makes this region so fascinating.

So many stories and legends entwine around the hidden beaches, ubiquitous coral reefs and other places at sea and on land. We could probably write an article purely on those stories from around here. This article is about to give you a brief introduction and overview of the islands, a quick look at the land and the people, at nautical and sailing aspects, at culinary and cultural aspects (above all it doesn’t claim to be exhaustive, although we’ll hope you’ll find it enjoyable!). A short journey through the waters that are the setting of Robert L. Stevenson’s Treasure Island, which Johnny Depp as Captain James Sparrow made unsafe in the film representing all literary pirate characters. Parts 1-3 were actually all filmed there and still exude a whiff of the adventure that many of us

The Bahamas

seek and find when sailing. So light up a Cuban cigar, pour yourself a

Over 700 islands, only 30 inhabited and well shielded from the Atlantic

glass of rum and join us in discovering the fascinating island world.

and its waves: that’s the Bahamas. The distances here are short, and the palm islands entice with their fine white sandy beaches and plenty of entertainment in the form of beach bars, resorts and marinas, which is

WHAT’S IT LIKE TO SAIL IN THE CARIBBEAN? The Caribbean consists of more than 5,000 islands, reefs and coral

especially true of the so-called Abacos. While the Exumas, the southernmost area, remains much more secluded.

Both areas are about 200 nautical miles apart, and those sailors wanting to experience both have to bring along some time to take in both.

reefs. Here you will find everything and (almost) every challenge you could wish for as a sailor, and at all levels of difficulty. From simple

The distances between the destinations are short within each district,

navigation on sight to demanding bluewater sailing - no wishes remain

although you can take longer routes at will. The long island chains offer

unfulfilled here. A great adventure playground where you can find a

sufficient protection from open Atlantic waves. The shallow stretches of

place to feel good with every level of experience.

sea between the islands shimmer turquoise, an ideal catamaran spot.

With a single-hull keel yacht, the situation is somewha t different; here,

The Caribbean arch offers protection from the big Atlantic waves. During

you must always keep an eye on the depth gauge.

the high season between November and April, there are constant trade winds, little rainfall and no tropical storms. Ideal for escaping the winter in Europe. When it gets grey and gloomy here, the island world usually shows its best side.

Around the Caribbean islands, you will often find larger shallow water spots, making it an ideal catamaran destination. But also with a sailboat, you can discover the areas, which guarantee perfect anchorages and great sunsets with their countless dream bays. But here, too, the rule applies: the details and the degree of difficulty vary from district to district.

A reason for us to introduce you to the most important ones: The British Virgin Islands The islands are considered the ideal sailing area for an introduction to the Caribbean. Tropical idylls that live up to every cliché. Enchanting islands, blue seas, dream beaches, and despite Hurricane Irma, which

The Leeward Islands

unleashed its immense destructive force in 2017, some excellent facilities

We mentioned the diversity of the Caribbean above, and nowhere is it

for sailors. The 60 islands of the archipelago are not far from each other,

more well documented than in the Leeward Islands. Saint Martin, Sint

no clearing in and out, and the area offers good shelter from the big

Maarten, St. Barthélmy, Anguilla, St. Kitts and Nevis, Antigua and Barbu-

Atlantic waves. Even after the hurricane, the islands are well on their way

da, Guadeloupe, Montserrat stretch out over a good 200 nautical miles:

to becoming a top spot in the Caribbean sailing realm.

former English, Dutch and French colonies cluster together in a clear 35

area. And those with high sailing standards can look forward to exciting passages on the open Atlantic.

Of course, you won’t be able to make it to all the islands. Quite a lot for one cruise. It often makes sense to put two neighbouring islands on the list of destinations. Antigua and Guadeloupe, for example.

And when you talk to returnees about sailing in Cuba, you often see such smiles. Enthusiasm sticks - and usually, it is not only the sailing experiences that make them reminisce. What makes the largest of the Caribbean islands so popular are the numerous offshore islands, the Cayos. There are said to be over 1000 of them. There is hardly any infrastructure when sailing in Cuba, but nature parks and untouched nature St. Martin, the island with French and Dutch sides, is the epicentre of sailing tourism in the Leeward Islands. Here you will find the bases of the charters and all sailing facilities. You can reach St. Martin by direct flight from some European countries, e.g. from Paris or Amsterdam. Alternatives for the start of a cruise include Guadeloupe or Antigua.

in front of a dreamlike Caribbean backdrop attract visitors.

If you visit Cuba, you usually can’t miss Havana. The capital of Cuba, characterised by the Spanish colonial architecture of the 16th century, is the Caribbean metropolis par excellence with its approximately 2 million inhabitants. A city of contrasts that is worth a visit.

Windward Islands A classic amongst the Caribbean destinations is the Windward Islands: Martinique, St. Lucia, St. Vincent and the Grenadines and Grenada. This chain of islands stretches for a long time in the south of the Caribbean Arc. If you sail back and forth between the large islands, it can take up to 5 or 6 hours. Over 150 nautical miles of pure Caribbean await you.

Sailors report feeling the Atlantic waves. It is usually much calmer on the west side: distances are shorter, as between the many small islands of the Grenadines.

Martinique is an excellent place to start, but the Grenadines, with their picture-book Caribbean charm, can be the end of a two-week cruise. If the time budget is not so high, you can also set sail from St. Lucia.

FIND WHAT SUITS YOU BEST! One could argue that sailing in the Caribbean is a bit like going to a buffet: plenty of choices from beginners to experts where one can pick what suits them best. While beginners and harbour hoppers will find excellent facilities in the BVIs, for example, explorers will get their money’s worth in Cuba. And if you are looking for a sailing challenge, choose an area with long Atlantic passages between the islands. And if being on the water is not enough, we recommend one area in particular: the second largest reef in the world in the Caribbean. We’re, of course, talking of the Belize Barrier Reef, a true paradise for divers who also want to be underwater.

Curious? Our experts will be happy to answer all your Kuba “La vida es corta pero una sonrisa sólo precisa un segundo”, life is short, but the effort of a smile only takes a second. A Cuban proverb.

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questions, visit sailogy.com, chat to us via the chat box or call us on +44 20 8068 4904

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The BVIs are a great spot for beginners thanks to the short distances between harbours and its calm seas. The further south, the greater the distances between harbours, plus the wind can become stronger.

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Various from island to island, a radio certificate is usually not necessary.

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There is a lot of anchoring - the islands and their bays are a real invitation. You will also find many buoys, marinas are not so frequent.

PORTS / INFRASTRUCTURE / PROVISIONS

You should definitely bunker at the begining of your trip, not everywhere you will find a shop quickly. Recommended to leave with plenty of water and cash as well.

Fancy sailing in the Caribbean?

Find your ideal boat here!

PRICES

Beer: 3 Euro. Cappuccino 3 Euro. Local Dishes: from 11 Euro. Prices may slightly vary depending on the island..

GETTING THERE

Varies: either via the USA or directly from all over Europe.

LANGUAGES SPOKEN

Depends on the island: in the BVIs English is the best, in Martinique e.g. French, in Porto Ricco Spanish.

37

The insider’s guide to

38

Croatian Konobas and Taverns

T h e i ns i de r ’s g u i de to C roati an Konob as a n d Tave rn s

Konoba Quattro Kornat, Strižnja N43°49´11´´, E15°17´06´´ Tel.: +385 91 754 9420 The bay of Strižnja has cult status and the legendary conflict between the two konobas Darko and Quattro contributed to this. Although living only a stone’s throw away from each other, their owners did not exchange a word for decades due to political differences. Only the children of the landlords, who increasingly took over the pubs after the turn of the millennium, broke the ice, but Konoba Darko has not been in regular operation since 2019. The reason for this is once again a conflict, but this time an inner-family one...

What remains is the quaint Konoba Quattro of the affable, well-German-speaking Jere Skračić. The spot, which is considered a place of power, is magnificent and correspondingly popular, so a berth on the three piers is hard to come by - a reservation makes absolute sense.

The kitchen is the realm of Mother Marija, who knows how to prepare not only fish and scampi, but also stuffed peppers and braised sauerbraten yachties are happy to travel a long way for the latter dishes. We can only hope that Jere, the kurnatare, will not make his melancholy thoughts of renting out the konoba one day come true - he simply fits his restaurant too well.

Konoba Koromačna Kornat, Koromačna N43°44´39´´, E15°26´25´´ Tel.: +385 91 611 3263 Gastronomy professional Zbyněk Dolejš immediately fell in love with this little-known settlement on Kornat and signed a lease until 2028 as the new patron of the konoba. With Antonijo Kursan, he hired a top executive as restaurant chef, who not only advises his guests in the style of a butler on the selection of dishes and wines (the new label “Testament” from nearby Šibenik is excellent!), but also assists them with docking and disembarking.

A team of young, local fishermen supplies the konoba several times a week with the best that the surrounding fishing grounds have to offer; during our last stay, even a barracuda landed in their nets.

Konoba Santor Lastovo, Zaklopatica N42°46´23´´, E16°52´39´´ Tel.: +385 (0)95 380 3363 Santor has been part of the illustrious circle of gourmet temples in Zaklopatica since 2009. Barbara Škratulja and her brother Frane, the harpoon fisherman, make sure that dentex, grouper and langoustines are on the menu, as well as veal, lamb and beef. The lamb under the peka bell is a special taste experience, but must be pre-ordered in good time. Olive oil, plavac (red wine) and rukatac (white wine) are produced in the interior of the island itself. The rumour that the Santor charges extra for the place setting is unfounded; the Santor is on the same price level as its competitors, but with its four mooring places and a mooring buoy it is the jewel in the bay.

There is a cosy terrace with comfortable wooden benches, and the dining room is a cosy alternative on inhospitable days, but only offers space for a manageable number of guests.

39

M AGIS TER NAVIS IS S UE NO. 3

Konoba Jastožera Vis, Hafen Komiža N43°02´40´´, E16°05´10´´ Tel.: +385 99 670 7755 Komiža is a vibrant fishing port on the west coast of Vis. There are numerous eateries, but they reach their capacity limits in high season, and in some cases the quality suffers as a result. A bank, on the other hand, is a visit to Konoba Jastožera in the northern part of the harbour. Around 1900, a breeding and storage facility for lobsters and langoustines was located here, from which the goods were sold throughout Europe until the 1960s. The restaurant is located directly above the former lobster dungeon. It was completely renovated in 2015 and was used in the Hollywood film Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again as a “Greek” taverna. You sit on a covered pier under which you can land with a dinghy; the coveted crustaceans await their fate in traditional wooden cages.

Not cheap, but a location that is second to none. Beware: there are often longer waiting times in the high season. *The Jastožera is the leftmost restaurant in the stone house with the round arch.

Konoba Ficović Pelješac, Hodilje N42°51′32″, E 17°41′21″ +385 95 393 4185 Why not take a trip to the oyster paradise that is the Mali Ston Canal?

Leaving the new 2,300-metre Pelješki Bridge behind us, we sail twenty scenic kilometres along the increasingly narrow and shallow canal with its countless mussel farms to the village of Hodilje. The pier offers space to moor boats on both sides. Marko Ficović’s very well-kept family business is just a few steps away and is even praised in Gault Millau. Marko’s mother Kate and brother Antonio work their magic in the small kitchen and at the grill. Sister Karla is responsible for service and recommends highly remarkable daily specials in addition to the menu. You can wait for your meal while bathing on the local beach.

Konoba Dalmatino Vis, Rukavac N43°01’18’’, E16°12’47’’ Tel.: +385 99 513 4393 Once a small fishing village close to some dream beaches, Rukavac is now the third largest village on the island of Vis. Rukavac means “sleeve”, as the village seems to jut out into the sea over a peninsula like a sleeve. Mooring at the village quay is permitted, but it must be kept free at night.

The traditional Konoba Dalmatia has come under increasing criticism in recent years and was no longer able to make convincing use of its prime location on the rocky cape with 5 buoys directly in front of it. From now on, a young, dynamic team is at the helm, putting the culinary finishing touches on this brilliant location. We were thrilled by the quality of the food, the service and the price-performance ratio, which will surely get around quickly among yachties. Caution: In the bay entrance, the landlord of the restaurant has boats arriving in the west bay intercepted and diverted to him. Konoba Dalmatino is in the east bay and it is better to reserve a buoy in advance.

40

T h e i ns i de r ’s g u i de to C roati an Konob as a n d Tave rn s

Konoba Gambo Hvar, Mrtinovik N43°07´04´´, E17°06´01´´ +385 91 792 8529 A wonderful contrast to the vibrant western part of Hvar is offered by “Konoba Gambo”, well hidden in the bay of Mrtinovik on the eastern south coast of Hvar. At the seven mooring buoys, seafaring visitors find a Robinson idyll with a pebble beach, a 150-year-old fisherman’s house along with its accompanying sea-animal catcher - what more could you want! The charismatic fisherman Ante has been fishing for guests in this beautiful corner for 20 years. After a drink or two to welcome you, he conjures up multi-course gourmet menus full of flavour, currently at 350 kuna per person. The gamberi from the far Neretva River are a delight!

Uninvited guests are sometimes annoying wasps. Waving them around or blowing on them won’t do any good. Arm yourself with essential oils of mint, lemon balm and lavender, because the yellow-black wasps can’t stand these smells.

Luke’s Taverne Pelješac, Kobaš N42°48′14″ E 17°44′38″ +385 99 201 4111 This quaint taverna is undoubtedly one of the cosiest places in southern Dalmatia. Many visiting crews have blissfully immortalised themselves on the walls of the tavern after unforgettable evenings.

Opened in 1985 by fisherman Luka Đuraš, his son Nikša, a highly trained gastronome with his own ideas and great motivation, is now taking over this gastronomic stroke of luck. Mother Katia continues to be an indispensable fixture in the kitchen, while Luka discreetly keeps a low profile to avoid generational conflicts with the energetic junior chef. But with wit and charm, Luka continues to be the ornament and good spirit of the restaurant, which you find out at the latest over a good glass of wine in personal conversation.

Much of the food here is home-grown, the rest sourced from local farmers and fishermen, most of whom are family members.

Restaurant Ante’s Place Mljet, Sablunara N42°42´02´, E17°44´19´´ Tel.: +385 99 591 0024 Sablunara Bay with its shallow sandy beaches is one of the most beautiful spots along the Adriatic, but suffers the fate of many a paradise and is becoming more and more touristy.

Captain Ivo Dabelić has expanded his father’s house, the former Konoba Kod Ante, in grand style and created a real eye-catcher in the bay. The complex is called Resort Boutique Pine Tree, consists of chic flats, a cool infinity pool and the restaurant Ante’s Place; Ivan’s better half, the equally charming and dedicated Ana Kralj, is responsible for the latter. The central element of the kitchen is a “Josper”, not called the Ferrari of ovens for nothing, in which traditional and modern dishes are prepared and succeed with unique tenderness.

Attention: Be sure to reserve a buoy in advance.

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M AGIS TE R NAVIS IS S UE NO. 3

Konoba Moster Šćedro, Manastir N42°05´36´´, E16°42´25´´ Tel.: +385 98 923 6040 In Šćedro, the saying about the clocks turning slower definitely still applies.

The bays of the nature park offer well-protected anchorages, a fact that has been known since ancient times. Pavao Kordić’s Konoba Moster in the small cove of Manastir, where 9 official buoys are available - but you have to pay for them when you visit the restaurant, but you can reserve them in advance through Pavao.

From the 15th to the 18th century, old and sick sailors were cared for by the monks in the Dominican monastery, which can still be visited today. This is why leisure captains feel a special bond with this bay.

The chapel of the monastery is used for two occasions, for example Pavao married his sweetheart there - a renovation has failed for the time being due to lack of funding.

His konoba is located in a wonderfully decelerated paradisiacal environment that is hard to find in the Mediterranean. What Pavao catches in the morning is processed and served in several courses - it doesn’t get more authentic than that. On the day of our visit, he caught a sensational amber fish!

Thomas Schedina From 13 December 2021, the new restaurant guide “Momentas - Gourmet Stars along the Adriatic” by Croatia intimate Thomas Schedina will be published.

35 extraordinary restaurants are visited, lavishly illustrated and described in the face of the current crisis.

So far, volumes have been published on the Kornati islands and the Šibenik archipelago (2016), the legendary Mljet, the greenest island in the Mediterranean (2017), the island of Vis, closed to tourists until 30 years ago, and the volcanic triangle in the middle of the Adriatic (2018) and on the island of Lastovo, the medieval pirate hideaway (2020).

The entire series is available at www.konoba-guide.com.

42

r e n t r a P g n i l i a Your Perfect S s d e e n g n i l i a s r u o y for all of BOAT CHARTER THE BEST EXCLUSIVE CHARTER MANAGEMENT OFFER BOAT SALE

Tel: +385 23 385 205 Mob: +385 98 16 36 058 booking@euronautic.hr www.euronautic.hr43

THAT’S THE

SPIRIT 44

T h at’s t h e Sp i rit

T

he Caribbean has been synonymous with rum since the begin-

batch produces just 60 bottles. The branding aims to pay homage to the

ning of time with every island making its own. Yet it looks like the

sailing heritage of the British Virgin Islands with a hand drawn map of the

Caribbean has now a new flirt. While rum is certainly ruling the

British Virgin Islands visible through the back of each bottle.

scene when it comes to Caribbean drinks, a new wave of home-grown distilleries are testing out new flavours with several gin microbreweries

“One of our aims since we launched BVI GIN is to promote the British

springing up on the different islands.

Virgin Islands through the brand. We believe that our product being featured internationally can only be a positive thing in improving awareness

The newly-found passion for the juniper-scented spirit reflects a global

of the BVI as a tourist destination.”

trend. The global gin market value is projected to double between 2020 and 2028 with Europe being one of the major consumers, accounting

Driven by persistence and belief, Matthew and his team learned to over-

solely for more than 50% of the overall gin market share in 2020.

come the logistical obstacles of setting up a distillery on a small Caribbean island, including sourcing equipment, base ingredients, bottles and

The classic London Dry Gin has dominated the gin world since forever.

labels, and gaining licences and health inspections.

Caribbean gin is just like its older British relative but, most who tried it argue, is smoother and subtler. Ideal if you fancy a lighter, fresh taste with a hint of tropical breeze.

Finding the right scent and flavours to the final gin was also part of the journey: making sure to get the right balance of ingredients between those of the traditional Lon-

Today we take a closer look at the homegrown British Virgin Island gin, BVI GIN which has certainly shaken up the

don Dry Gin but that extra Caribbean identity (which involved making hundreds of test batches and running a number of very welcome tastings ). It took a year to

spirit scene.

get there and the result is a traThe distillery developed by

ditional London Dry Gin with

a force other than trends. It

beautiful flavours of juniper

was more an opportunity to

and citrus from grapefruit and

recover from hurricane Irma.

lemon, balanced with floral

BVI GIN was launched by

notes taken from the Carib-

the Little Bay Distilling Com-

bean hibiscus flower. Cassia

pany based close to Little

bark and liquorice root are

Bay, Tortola in the British

also there, resulting in a gin

Virgin Islands in September

that is light and refreshing,

2018 by Matthew Neal, who

and pairs perfectly with tonic or Ting, and a twist of grape-

had been working as a lawyer

fruit. There is also a BVI Pink Gin

in Tortola for three years when

infused with raspberry.

Hurricane Irma hit in September 2017.

BVI GIN has already won Bronze in the “Following Irma, there was a great deal of news of devastation coming out of the BVI,” says Matthew. “We wanted to spread more positive messages about the territory – messages of resilience, mes-

International Wine & Spirit Competition, and Best in the Americas from The Gin Guide. “We’ve had a very positive reaction so far,” says Matthew.

“People who don’t usually drink gin have enjoyed the product.

sages that the BVI was open for business. We had been working on the

We believe we’re putting gin on the map in the BVI and, once we start

idea for a while but it seemed the perfect time to set up the Little Bay

exporting to the wider Caribbean, we hope to increase the awareness of

Distilling Company.”

a new image of BVI in the region.”

On top of that, the popularity of gin in Europe was soaring and almost all the gin sold in the Caribbean was imported. Matthew saw an opportunity to bring gin production to a historically ‘well-spirited’ part of the world.

“We wanted to spread more positive messages about the territory – messages of resilience, messages that the BVI was open for business.

If you’re interested in learning more about BVI GIN, check their website on bvigin.com or follow them @bvigin on Instagram.

We had been working on the idea for a while but it seemed the perfect time to set up the Little Bay Distilling Company.”

Made up of more than 60 idyllic islands, islets and cays, and being well known for its white powdery beaches, crystal clear sailing waters, lush green hills and warm, friendly people, the BVI is the perfect setting for this distillery.

BVI GIN is distilled using carefully selected botanicals using the tradition-

This content was written in collaboration with the British Virgin Islands Tourism Board Tel+44 (0) 207 355 9585 info@bvitourismus.com www.facebook.com/BVITB www.instagram.com/BVItourismus

al “London Dry” method in a bespoke copper column still. Each small 45

Our TOP 5 nautical Films and TV programmes Particularly during the long winter months, these are excellent ways to quench our longing for the sea, or well, at least to ease the withdrawal symptoms: Films and TV programmes with a nautical connection - from classic sailing drama to reality fornat. Pictures on screen are a good way to pass the time until the next cruise. Besides classics like “Moby Dick” , “Titanic” or “Das Boot”, here is a selection of our crew’s favourite formats as inspiration for the next home cinema or streaming evening:

1

Turning Tide - between the waves (En solitaire, F 2013) What’s it about?

A French single-handed sailor unexpectedly gets the chance to fulfil his dream of participating in the Vendée Globe. After a repair stop, he discovers that he is not alone on board. He discovers a stowaway on board. From then on he is in a quandary...

A great sailing film that also skilfully captures the atmosphere of the legendary single-handed around the world regatta. Seamanship, the conflicts about the realisation of dreams and humanity compressed on an Open 60 and skilfully mixed with the storylines on land - a great film that is a lot of fun and exciting until the end.

Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World (USA 2003)

Russell Crowe and Paul Bettany sail halfway around the world to confront an invincible enemy in the historical epic Master and Commander. Epic drama set during the Napoleonic Wars. Classic!

P.S. The replica of the HMS Surprise on which the film was shot was also used in “Pirates of the Caribbean”.

3 46

2

All is lost (USA, 2013)

After colliding with a drifting cargo container in the Pacific, Robert Redford as a lone sailor is confronted with a merciless fight for survival on the high seas. Even though there is often criticism among sailors about supposedly unrealistic behaviour and actions, and the plausibility of some events is questioned: Atmospherically and in terms of acting, the film is quite successful. A clear recommendation!

4

In the Heart of the Sea (USA 2015)

By Ron Howard with Chris Hemsworth, Benjamin Walker and Cillian Murphy. Ron Howard’s “In the Heart of the Sea” traces the events of the whaling ship “Essex”, which is the model for Herman Melville’s classic “Moby Dick”.

Whaling drama, life on board and the irrepressible power of the sea and those who inhabit and travel it.

Impressive!

Adrift (USA 2018)

Based on true events, Adriftlead actress Shailene Woodley sails through a terrible storm to save herself and her boyfriend (Sam Claflin). While ferrying a yacht from Tahiti to San Diego, a pair of sailors are caught in a violent and violent storm.

The film traces the story of Tami Oldham, who set off across the Pacific with her fiancé Richard Sharp aboard the 44-foot yacht “Hazana” in 1983.

5

Drama, great pictures and a lot of emotion!

Out of Competition

Below Deck (Reality series, 2013- ) Below Deck Mediterranean, Below Deck Sailing Yacht.

Has little to do with sailing but with yachting itself - and offers a lot of drama! The successful reality series about the lives of crews on superyachts, the “yachties”, including lots of drama, affairs, jealousy, stress and parties, always on the hunt for the tip, the tip of the more or less eccentric and incredibly rich charter guests now calls two spin - offs including sailing - superyacht life their own. And all this always against the backdrop of fantastic sailing destinations - from the Bahamas to Thailand. A feast for fans of reality TV, everyone else will probably have a hard time.

47

M AGIS TER NAVIS IS S UE NO. 3

Some boats also come with an inverter: an electronic device capable of converting the 12 Volt DC from the batteries into 220 Volt AC, like that of the household electrical system.

The power of these devices, when installed, does not exceed a few

TIPS ON MANAGING YOUR WATER & POWER SUPPLY ONBOARD WITH FRANCESCO

hundred Watts, which means that it is possible to connect some appliances for which we only have the 220 Volt power supply, but not appliances with high absorption (a hairdryer or a straightener, for example).

How do I charge my mobile phone on a boat? Do I need an inverter?

Many people look for an inverter as a must-have accessory to ensure that they can charge their mobile phone using the usual power supply.

In reality, it is much easier and more effective to ensure that you charge your mobile phone with a USB adapter that you plug into the boat’s cigarette lighter socket, just like you do in your car.

In addition to the adapter, I recommend that you bring along some USB

In this article we meet experienced sailor and friend Francesco,mwho

plug splitters so that several crew members can charge simultaneously.

shares a few practical tips when it comes to managing both your water

Don’t forget power banks and traditional power supplies for use ashore

and power supply onboard. Francesco passion for sailing started 20

or in the marina.

years ago in Liguria, Italy. A fleet specialist in Sailogy, his favourite boat is the Dufour 310 Grand Large.

The purpose of the inverter is to allow us to live on a sailing boat using devices for which we do not have a 12 Volt power supply.

Even the least tech-savvy person today is interested in the characteristics of the electrical system onboard, first and foremost to ensure that they can charge their mobile phone.

We have already talked about devices such as mobile phones, tablets or power banks and in general all those that are powered via USB. For all other electronic devices with higher electricity consumption like computers, you can use 12 Volt power supplies.

I recommend that you give it some thought if you plan to use it intensively, for example, if you are going to work remotely from your boat.

Onboard Utilities Apart from recharging existing devices, you will need your electricity for two purposes: • to run the boat • to provide onboard services As far as the boat is concerned, we are thinking first of starting the engine, for which there is a dedicated battery so that we can always be sure to restart it and charge all the other devices.

Boats, like all vehicles, have a 12 Volt DC electrical system connected to

As far as onboard services are concerned, we have the internal lights,

batteries and the engine that recharges them. There are generally three

which absorb very little power if they are LED (remember, however, to

batteries:

keep only those switched on in the room where we are) and the refrig-

• one to start the engine for safety

erator, which absorbs around 50 Watts, which doesn’t seem much. Still,

• the other two to provide electricity for all appliances onboard

we must consider that it works continuously.

This means that 12 Volt power is available onboard at all times, similar to a car cigarette lighter.

Charging Batteries So far, we have talked about power consumption, but how do we

How does electricity work on boats?

store the energy in the batteries?

You’ll also find a 220 Volt system onboard: something typically only

A sailing boat used for leisure (rather than living) does not necessarily

switched on when the boat is connected to the mains in the marina to

have the equipment for long sails as it does not usually require long

charge the batteries.

periods of energy - autonomy. In this case, you have two options: re-

48

Ti ps On M anag i ng You r Wate r & Powe r Su pply Onb oard With Fra n c e s c o

charging by connecting to the 220 Volt mains via the dedicated power

leisure sailors renting a boat for a week holiday.

chargers on the marina docks. The power you’ll get from the chargers will provide you with 220 Volt electricity, and in one night, you’ll have

Maximise the water onboard for a more sustainable sail with wa-

recharged all batteries on board. This aspect is especially important

termakers, marine soap and much more with captain Francesco

when we are away from the port, a few hours a day of engine operation

Life on board is not substantially different from life on land. Today’s

will compensate at least partially the energy used.

boats are so comfortable and fully accessorised that we often forget we are on board and not sitting on our couch at home. That said, sailing

However, it is also possible to recharge the batteries through the

boats do present some constraints compared to homey life. One of

engine generator, just like a car. In this case, I recommend keeping an

them is freshwater.

eye on consumption so that you don’t have to turn on the engine while stationary without needing it to charge the batteries.

Every sailing boat has generous freshwater tanks to use for general washing up. Just for reference, here are examples of the capacity of water tanks of some boats and catamarans of different sizes: • Dufour 310 Grand Large 159 litres • Bavaria Cruiser 37 208 litres • Bavaria C 45 650 litres • Dufour 520 Grand Large 719 litres One word on catamarans. Their shape affects their overall weight; thus, whilst one may think they may host more water supply, actually, they are not significantly different from sailboats in this respect.

The water supply will not be much greater than on a sailing boat. The number of toilets, and therefore water consumption, will tend to be higher on a catamaran.

Something to consider if we want

Using the engine is not a particularly efficient method of recharging.

to spend a long period. Do take this into account if you want to spend

I suggest being a little careful with consumption, for example, by

long periods anchoring in roads.

periodically switching off the fridge. It is well insulated and can cope

• Lagoon 380 300 litres

with intermittent operation without any problems, mainly if we help its

• Lagoon 42 299 litres

thermal inertia with a few ice bricks.

• Lagoon 450 348 litres

The Power Generator

The water in the tanks onboard is used mainly for washing and taking

If we need to keep the batteries charged for long periods away from the

showers. Super, but do remember that water supply comes from a tank

port, rather than the engine generator (not designed for this purpose), I

and not to an aqueduct!

recommend opting for a boat equipped with a boat generator. This accessory, also known as a generator set, consists of a diesel engine connect-

Showering onboard: Some tips

ed to a generator, enclosed in a soundproof container and housed in a

Bear in mind that one single shower produces about 10 litres of water per

boat locker, specifically designed to produce electricity with maximum

minute. Under the enveloping jet time flies, this means that a crew in a

efficiency. This small power station is the solution for those who plan to

round of full, domestic showers can drain the boat’s water reserve, forc-

stay “into the wild” for a long time or have significant power consumption

ing a return to the nearest harbour to refuel. A time-consuming operation,

on board.

especially in the high season and in small resorts. It forces an unwanted overnight stop in the marina.

Solar panels, wind generator, hydro-generator When sailing, it is common to encounter globetrotting boats equipped with

Our advice to save your tanks, and I should add an enjoyable one, is to

such devices, usually in roadsteads rather than ports. They can be expensive

give yourself a rinse in the sea during the day. Then just a final wash with

and not easily manageable.

fresh water using the external shower while standing on the stern beach at the end of the day. In this way, as well as having a fresh shower (or a

However, they guarantee excellent operating time and eco-sustain-

hot one, as there is usually never a lack of hot water on a boat) with a

ability even when sailing for long cruises away from ports, without the

priceless view, you will also avoid wetting the boat’s bathroom.

risk of depleting the fuel supply to run the engine. These devices are undoubtedly useful on a boat. Still, with the possible exception of solar

The secret to maximising our water supply is using marine soap. Some-

panels in certain circumstances, my view is that they’re less suited for

thing you should always take with you as you pack your bags.

49

M AGIS TER NAVIS IS S UE NO. 3

Why is it so important? For three reasons: first, it is a special soap that can

within everyone’s reach, with compact dimensions and low power

dissolve even in saltwater, differently from regular soaps that are harder

consumption and runs also using the batteries onboard. It consists of a

to rinse. So a more effective and practical option for seawater. On top

high-pressure pump and an extended filter and removes salt from the

of that, it does not produce any foam, so it is ideal for the environment.

water through an osmotic process.

Regular soap will leave that typical trail of bubbles where we are and where, let’s not forget, we are only guests. A reason why the third aspect,

With an output of several dozen litres per hour, it will provide an inex-

biodegradability, is so important.

haustible supply of freshwater for all our holiday needs.

Modern watermakers are very compact, this model produces 30 liters / hour with the absorption of a light bulb Let’s make sure we dispose of mineral water bottles correctly A week holiday for a 6 people crew with a skipper requires an average of 150 plastic water bottles.

These must be disposed of correctly and can put a strain on a generally fragile environment both from a water supply perspective as well as when it comes to waste disposal.

To overcome this problem and this inconvenience, I just think of the number of times we will be forced

We don’t want to leave that perfect cove or bay we’ve just discovered

to go ashore during our holiday to dispose of the bottles we produce),

because we ran out of water, do we? So it is essential to make sure we

desalination units are becoming more common on boats, which can

set sail with sufficient water, food and fuel supply so that we can choose

produce drinking water which we can then store in our flasks at our

to stop whenever we spot a special place to anchor.

preferred temperature.

Water for food use

Managing your water on board

As far as food use is concerned, onboard we generally use plastic

How to save water: a boat is as comfortable as a house, but it is detached

bottled water for drinking and cooking. At least three litres per person

from the mainland, so it is essential to respect a golden rule that can also

per day, so do your maths and take plenty. Under the floor, you will find

be applied at home: never let the water run from the tap, but always close

plenty of space to store your bottles (I recommend removing the label

it after each use.

if it is made of paper). Some boats, particularly well-equipped, will also

In the past, boat taps were equipped with hand pumps, which were not

have a convenient tap powered by seawater in the galley. Great not

very practical but had the advantage of making us more aware of the water

only for rinsing your fruit and vegetables but also for washing dishes.

we were using.

Today, the boat’s plumbing system is pressurised by an electric pump that

Cooking with seawater

allows water to flow copiously every time we turn on the tap, which is very

If you enjoy it, you can use seawater for cooking - just make sure it’s

practical but at the same time very prone to domestic consumption.

clean. Given the reasonably high salinity of the Mediterranean, much

When we need to rinse something, such as a swimming costume or fruit,

higher than that of the ocean, for example, it is sufficient to use a quarter

we do not use the tap jet, but rather fill a bowl or basin with the water we

of seawater of the total liquid.

need.

Among other advantages, the pressure cooker allows you to cook using

Use seawater whenever possible

little water, otherwise, you can recover the water used to cook pasta,

Suppose we need to strictly control our water consumption not to run out

which is excellent for washing dishes!

of water while waiting for the next refill. In that case, we should consider temporarily disconnecting the pump.

The watermaker Many modern boats are now equipped with a desalinator. Once intended

Aber egal ob Wasser oder Strom: Ressourcen schonen und die Umwelt

for oceanic navigators and specialist use, this accessory is now almost

schützen – für uns Segler eigentlich selbstverständlich.

50

Who is who @ Sailogy ?

Interview with Alen Radetic, Sailogy Head of Operations.

Hello Alen! So what’s your story? How did you land in this role?

It was a nice ride still running. We started 4 years ago with fleet “cleaning” and customer support, and now we are dealing with many different aspects on the commercial and operative level, for both our brands Sailogy and MasterYachting. It’s a really fast and competitive environment, but the most important part is that it is still inspiring every day.

Were you new to the world of sailing before working for Sailogy or you’d tried sailing before?

I grew up in Istria, so the sea is something pretty near my everyday life. I was always fascinated by various types of boats and I had some sailing experience in my youth, but honestly, I always preferred motorboats :) After university, I decided to try my luck with a Spanish agent that worked in the sector, and by the end of that experience, I came to our company.

In a nutshell, can you describe what you do in your everyday job?

Mainly I’m giving support to all our departments, especially during

high season periods, that are hopefully becoming longer and longer.

Generally, with my team, we are working on the so-called “quality control”: checking the data regarding various boats, analyzing the performances of our partners (the charter companies), and trying to expand our business offer to new markets.

What’s the biggest challenge of working as Head of Operations?

I will be probably banal here, but definitely at the moment handling all the COVID related disruptions. I think that the crisis actually brought us together even more, and we now completely feel that we can rely on each other for any professional need we might have, but obviously, it’s not easy to balance the various interests of clients, partners and ours, keeping in mind always the main goal: the best service for everybody.

Can you remember one of the strangest / unexpected situations you’ve found yourself in as part of this job?

I’m a big football fan, and during the boat shows it’s not always easy to watch the matches of my club. I had a meeting with a partner during match time and when I came to his table he was kind of anxious, so I asked what was happening and he kindly asked if we could move the meeting later in the evening. I immediately agreed, given the situation, and told him the truth about the football match. It ended up that he was cheering for the opposite club that was playing against mine, so we took a beer and watched the match together, here and there discussing business also ;) In one sentence, what is the one thing you absolutely love about working in this industry?

The satisfaction of first-timers when they come back after an amazing sailing experience.

Two girls, one boat, no plan on the journey of a lifetime Loyal readers already know Anna and Malin from our last two magazine issues. We, from Sailogy, have been following Anna and Malin’s exciting journey for a year now.

With little to no sailing experience, two girls set out to travel the world sailing after completing their academic journey. The two are living their dream under the eyes of a steadily growing fan community on YouTube, Instagram, and the like. And if you’re feeling intrigued, perhaps you’re dreaming about leaving your office job, or you’ve just finished your studies and need some inspiration on what to do next, why not start following them on their Instagram account @annaundmalin.

If you dubble a bit of German, then we recommend their recently released book Zwei Mädels, ein Boot, kein Plan auf der Reise ihres Lebens. Since we are big fans of the two and their story, we are giving away a total of five copies among our readers. To enter, just drop an email by 01.12.2021 to marketing@master-yachting.de with the subject “annaundmalin Gewinnspiel”. * Participation in the competition of Master Yachting hereinafter referred to as the operator or organiser, is free of charge and exclusively governed by these conditions of participation. The duration of the competition is from 19.10.2021, 00:00 hrs to 01.12.2021, 00:00 hrs. In order to participate in the competition, it is necessary to send an email with the surname, first name and address of the participant. Participation is only possible within the entry period. Entries received after the closing date will not be taken into account in the draw. Only one entry per participant will be entered into the competition. It is strictly prohibited to use multiple email addresses to increase the chances of winning. Participation in the competition is free of charge. All persons involved in the conception and implementation of the competition and employees of the operator as well as their family members are not eligible to participate in the competition.

51

M AGIS TER NAVIS IS S UE NO. 3

MY PERSONAL JOURNEY TO THE

YACHTMASTER LICENCE

I started sailing in 1990 at the age of 10 at a sailing and wind-

surfing school in Malcesine on Lake Garda. I live in Verona and the lake is a very educational gym very close to home; I

spent every summer there working and learning to windsurf

and catamaran mainly. I fell in love with the wind and the water. Since then my passion has remained unchanged, the

of competence, there are minimum requirements of experience (miles sailed in

sea is the place where I relax the most and feel at ease and

certain conditions) to be able to access the course and the exams. Don’t think that

in contact with nature. Whenever possible, I have sailed and

you can make any false claims, on the day of the exam and throughout the course

tried to accumulate as much experience as possible, learning

the candidate’s experience will be thoroughly investigated.

from anyone who had something to teach me, the sea is a great school of life.

How long did it take you to get the licence?

The course lasts about twenty days and the exam lasts a whole day, but I consider

Let’s start from the basics, how do you become a Yachtmaster?

the YM as the end of a path that really begins with the first boat trips. Before the

The course that Rya has developed is very well organised

course I went over and studied all the topics I knew would be covered and this

and designed to make everyone aware of their own abilities

helped me a lot. I bought a lot of books (in English, since the course and the exam

and therefore able to choose what type of sailing to do safely,

are in English) to get a better and more detailed theoretical preparation. I would

from a day trip near the coast to the Yachmaster.

say that 3 or 4 months of pre-course study was enough.

Those who already take their first steps in such an organised

What are the basics you should be capable of before you start the RYA YM?

course will surely make a complete growth that will make

The skill I think is most important is to be able to demonstrate safe navigation in any

them safe and prepared sailors. For those, like the vast major-

situation. Have a great passion and respect for the sea, and have a serious and

ity of foreigners, who decide to try to obtain a Rya certificate

methodical attitude when going to sea. Becoming a YM opens the door to a profes-

52

My Pe r s onal Jou r ne y To T h e Yachtmast e r L ic e n c e

sional career at sea and what RYA certifies is precisely the fact of having a serious and professional attitude towards the sea. You need seriousness and determination Is experience a key essential?

Experience is indeed essential. The course and the exam are very concrete, they are based on real life at sea and both the teachers and the examiner will be extremely competent and prepared people but above all people with a great deal of experience accumulated over many years of sailing, everything will be very concrete. Rya requires a minimum level of experience to be able to take the exam, miles, days at sea, sailing distance from the coast, night passages (details on the Rya website). Experience is the fundamental basis. result. The sense of justice that I felt that day and throughout the course was perhaps the aspect that impressed me most.

In what ways did taking the Yachtmaster licence affect your life as a professional sailor?

After the sailing YM I converted to a motor boat, took all the stcw courses (fire fighting, first aid, sea survival etc) to get the authorisation to use my YM commercially. Now I want to gain even more experience and look for a boat over 24 meters where I can learn more and more.

I am dedicated to a few selected charters and transfers or as a support skipper for private owners. In any case I am ready to take advantage of any good opportunity that comes my way.

What was the absolute most challenging part of taking the licence?

The course is very intense and if I hadn’t come prepared I definitely

I certainly feel changed after this journey and very aware of how delicate

wouldn’t have kept up. On the course you take it for granted that you have candidates who are prepared and ready and who need a slightly different way of thinking, but knowledge of the subjects is taken for granted. Reasoning about so many technical English terms was difficult at the beginning.

The practical part of the course was very challenging, we dealt with any situation and any subject, at sea from early morning until late at night.

Staying focused and changing your way of doing things was very challenging but also rewarding.

this job is, which unfortunately is often mistaken for a paid pastime both by clients and by those who venture into it thinking it is a way to get paid for their holidays. Nothing could be more dangerous and far from the truth.

Any insider’s tips for anyone thinking to embark on the Yachtmaster licence journey?

Be realistic and honest about your experience, don’t rush things, stay determined and focused to fill your knowledge gaps before starting. Do not underestimate this path but take it as a great opportunity to become a better sailor and maybe even a better person.

What does the final exam consist of?

The examiner just got on the boat and told us: the exam is simple, you

I sincerely thank my instructors and examiners for this wonderful experi-

have to make me understand that I can safely trust you with my grandson

ence that has profoundly changed me and made me grow as a person,

to cross the English Channel at night.

and sailor, a lot.

The exam is extremely concrete, you are at sea for many hours, with a maximum of two candidates, and with the examiner you deal with everything. You do it from the boat, you manage the boat, the navigation, the

If you’re interested to follow Giovanni’s sail wanders, go ahead and check him out on Instagram @sailing.pomo

crew. On that day, luck or misfortune really won’t be able to influence the 53

Maddalena The beauty of the Sardinian beaches is known throughout the world and needs no introduction. Ichnusa, as Sardinia was called in ancient Greek, is the second-largest island in the Mediterranean after Sicily. The Sardinian coast has almost 200 km of beaches, cliffs, hidden coves and rias.

We suggest here an itinerary that starts from the south-east coast of Sardinia and will take you to Caprera, then to the island of La Maddalena, the island of Spargi and the northernmost islands of Budelli, Razzoli and Santa Maria. Skipper and Maddalena native Paolo Traverso helped us with the article you’re about to read. With a wealth of nautical miles on his shoulders in northern Sardinia, he’s shared some valuable navigation tips (and more) with visiting La Maddalena.

You won’t miss the most fascinating pearls onboard your sailboat or catamaran.

54

Archipelago

55

M AGIS TER NAVIS IS S UE NO. 3

THE LOCAL’S GUIDE TO SAILING THERE

unspoilt nature. Right at the north-eastern end is a pearl of rare beauty,

Departures for the Archipelago

included in a single municipality.

There are two main ports from which you can set sail for la Maddalena Archipelago: Portisco and Cannigione. Portisco is located a little to the southeast of la Maddalena National Park. Still, from here, you will be able to follow a beautiful sailing itinerary which, although slightly further away, will allow you to reach the most beautiful parts of the Archipelago, passing through Soffi and Mortorio Island (about 3.2 NM from Portisco). Cannigione is closer to the Archipelago, 4 NM from Caprera, and is ideal if you want to spend more time exploring the islands to the north in a seven-day itinerary and if you want to go as far as Budelli and Santa Maria. In both cases, we will share with you, with the help of Paolo’s advice, the most spectacular anchorage points along with your sailing.

In both cases, you will discover true gems of these areas, discovering them from the magnificent point of view of the boat.

the La Maddalena Archipelago.

The Archipelago was recognised as the first National Park in Sardinia in 1994. With over 11,000 inhabitants, La Maddalena is also the only one

With more than 180 km of coastline and 5,000 hectares of granite and Mediterranean scrub surrounded by 15,000 hectares of crystal-clear sea, there are seven ‘major’ islands part of the Archipelago: La Maddalena, where you’ll find the main town, Caprera, Santo Stefano, Spargi, Budelli, Razzoli and Santa Maria, but also includes a vast number of smaller islets and rocks within its boundaries.

The park groups the Archipelago into zones to better safeguard the ecosystem: you’re not allowed to transit in some of these. Rules can vary and are updated yearly, so I recommend checking that you are not travelling through forbidden zones. Penalties can be hefty.

The main islands are very close to each other. The Archipelago is particularly suited to be explored on a boat, to enjoy its beauty fully and admire even the otherwise inaccessible islands.

So many bays to explore: Caprera The island is connected to the island of La Maddalena by a fixed bridge built over the Passo della Moneta; unfortunately, the height of the bridge makes it impassable for sailing boats.

One of the first bays you come across as you head towards the island of La Maddalena, sheltered from practically all winds except the Ostro, is Porto Palma, a beautiful inlet on the southern side of the island, home to the Caprera Sailing Centre. It has a seabed ranging from one metre to 15 metres, there are free buoys and the Rada is allowed. The seabed offers good hold, and the natural protection offered by the bay is generally remarkable and very characteristic.

Remember that it is absolutely forbidden and inadvisable to bottom the

A 7-day itinerary onboard in La Maddalena Archipelago Sailing from the South-East Starting your trip from Portisco towards La Maddalena, you will usually sail between the islands of Soffi and Mortorio, which, despite their dis-

Posidonia Oceanica: this is a protected species. It is an easily recognisable marine plant usually living in all the waters of the area. It has the important purpose of oxygenating the sea and being a very bad bottom for holding anchors. You should, therefore, always pay the utmost

tance from La Maddalena National Park, are part of it.

attention.

The real point of access to the Archipelago is the passage of the Bisce,

docks reserved for the sailing centre because of the intense activity

between Capo Ferro and the island of the Bisce. You can sail along the internal part of the passage or external. Obviously, this will depend on the weather conditions you are sailing.

These islands, together with Li Nibani, offer lovely views. I want to observe one important thing here: these islands are an integral reserve and you’re not allowed to sail around them. You can therefore sail along

In the bay of Porto Palma, it is not advisable to get too close to the that takes place near their buoys to avoid creating problems for the students.

The island is home to a vast number of bays and inlets, and Cala Coticcio, which can only be seen from the sea at this time, is undoubtedly worth mentioning. Also known as Tahiti, with its turquoise-coloured sea, it is a tiny beach on the east side of the island that is worth seeing. It

them to admire their beauty.

does not offer much protection from the east but is well protected from

Once you have passed through the passage, the first larger and partly

are orographic obstacles just behind the bay, including Monte Tejalone,

inhabited island you’ll encounter is Caprera. The first natural shelter when entering La Maddalena, even in the event of easterly winds.

La Maddalena National Park Sailing northwards along the east coast of Sardinia, one is immediately captivated by the scent and charm of a breathtakingly beautiful, still 56

the west winds. Beware of wind turns when you are at anchor as there the highest mountain on Caprera, worth a trek if you’re into that!

I’d also like to point out some of the other most beautiful bays on the island, Cala Caprese, known as “due Mari” for the locals, Cala Brigantina, and Cala Napoletana, which is well protected from the sirocco.

Generally speaking, there are fantastic little beaches and coves all

M ad d al e na A rc h i p e l a g o

along the coast. The only problem is that the shallows below the coast

routes: keep S.Stefano to starboard to pass in front of the islet Roma,

are often not marked, so proceed with care, especially when you get

in which case make sure to pay attention to the route of the ferries Pa-

close to the mainland.

lau-Maddalena and always give precedence; alternatively sail through the roadstead of Santo Stefano and then between Punta Sassu and the

Also fantastic is the beach of the Relitto, which takes its name from the

dam of the islet Chiesa, in this passage be careful because it is an old

remains of an old wooden boat still visible on the beach, but the bay is

exit from the port, the green and red are reversed.

closed to anchoring so the only way to reach it is by land.

The Porto Turistico di Cala Gavetta is the main port of La Maddalena, just a stone’s throw from the town centre. Among other things, you’ll find the only marine fuel supplier in the Archipelago (the nearest alternative is Palau). Since the demand for berths is high in the summer season and the main port is not huge, you’ll find several other ports and jetties near the town. These include the Marina di Cala Camiciotto, which is well-protected except for the strong Libeccio (rarer in the summer season), Zona Padule and along the main piazza Umberto Primo.

The island of La Maddalena offers many alternatives and places of interest.

The beach of Bassa Trinita, sheltered from the easterly winds, is perhaps the most famous beach on the island, with its fine dunes and turquoise water, offering a truly breathtaking sight.

But as we have said, the prevailing winds on the island are from the West, in particular Mistral and Ponente, and the bay most sheltered from these winds is certainly Spalmatore, where there is also a quay and a Caprera has two museums worth a visit: one dedicated to Giuseppe

buoy park where you can pay and enjoy an aperitif by the sea.

Garibaldi and the second one is Museum of the Sea and many well-preserved historic forts with evocative landscapes.

The whole of the Giardinelli islet is also fantastic, with the famous

There are fabulous trails for trekking enthusiasts, and the whole island

cant draughts because the whole area is sown with shallows.

“Capocchia du Purpu” beach, but be very careful, especially with signifiis a beautiful nature reserve. The pine forest that stretches inland is staggeringly beautiful, and I most certainly recommend a visit.

Sailing between Baia di Villamarina and Baia del Pesce: Santo Stefano Island Between Caprera and La Maddalena is the fantastic Isola di Santo Stefano (2 NM from Caprera), famous for its military base that was once in the hands of the American Navy and is now in the hands of the Italian Navy. It is forbidden to approach the eastern side of the island, where the base is located, although, at present, its activity is limited.

Particularly suggestive from both a naturalistic and cultural point of view is the Baia di Villamarina. Here you can walk among the remains of the granite quarry and see the unfinished statue of Ciano, dating back to the Second World War, as well as several forts that are still in excellent condition. The bay is also particularly sheltered from almost all winds and suitable for the roadstead. Only the Osto is particularly annoying.

The Baia del Pesce, where the former Valtour tourist village is located, is also very beautiful. It is a pity that it offers little water for sailing

It is definitely worth renting an electric vehicle or a scooter to visit the

boats and little protection from the Ponente, the dominant wind in the

island by land. The old town is very pretty, full of life and bars, as well

Archipelago.

as history and culture. The panoramic road that goes around the island offers a fantastic view of the whole Archipelago, and on a clear day, it is

If the Ponente or Mistral wind is strong, be careful along with the Rada

also possible to see the mountains of Corsica.

di Santo Stefano, between S. Stefano and Caprera, because the island itself with its reliefs causes sudden strong gusts that can “lie down” a

You should also visit the cliffs of Punta Tegge, facing West, perfect for

sailing boat in every sense!

watching the sunset and enjoying an aperitif on the sea.

Mooring in the Island of Islands: The Island of La Maddalena

The whole coastline is worth a visit, dotted with small coves with stun-

To enter the main port of La Maddalena, Cala Gavetta, you can take two

ning colours and unique views.

57

M AGIS TER NAVIS IS S UE NO. 3

Because of the numerous islands in the Archipelago, it is easy to lose

We then find Cala Granara, recognisable by the small house on the

your bearings. An excellent point to always take as a reference is Guar-

beach. The island of Spargi was once inhabited, and Granara takes its

dia Vecchia, a Coast Guard station located on the top of the island and

name from the wheat that was once loaded onto this beach by ships.

visible from most inland waters.

The beach is relatively small but staggeringly beautiful. The seabed is sandy and in the case of westerly winds offers excellent protection for the night.

In succession we find Cala Connari, Cala Ferrigno, recognisable by its quay, and more hidden and smaller, Cala Bonifazzinca.

What can I say? Each of them has its own characteristics and beauties, so the advice, if possible, is always to see them all.

Between Budelli, Razzoli and Santa Maria and their natural harbour Porto Madonna In order to reach the group of islands of Budelli, Razzoli and Santa Maria, leaving Spargi behind, we will have to face a stretch of sea which, although short, less than two nautical miles, can still be quite treacherous, since we lose all shelter in the event of a westerly wind, which has enough fetch to generate significant waves. In addition, the presence of shoals that are not dangerous for navigation, but are nonetheless notable, increases this phenomenon, the Washington shoal, for example, reaches about six metres below sea level and offers among other things an excellent point of interest for those who love diving.

Snorkelling on Spargi Island Less than three miles from the port of Cala Gavetta, the distances to the

Budelli, Razzoli and Santa Maria are three islands very close to each

Archipelago are relatively short...You enter the Pearls of the Archipelago.

other, which in their embrace form an actual natural harbour called Porto

Spargi is an unspoilt island with no inhabitants, famous for its turquoise sea

Madonna. This port is often called Le Piscine because of the colour of

and fine, white sand as fine as flour. The island’s central bays are sheltered

its waters. With the islet of Carpa in the centre, each view has its unique

from the West but, as a result, suffer somewhat from easterly winds, apart

vibe. I recommend exploring it as much as possible, swimming or even

from Cala d’Alga.

with a canoe or tender.

Let’s start with Cala d’Alga, which I would like to point out because it is sheltered from the easterly winds and although it is usually less celebrated than its sisters, its beauty has nothing to envy from the more famous and touristy bays. Because of the wind, the north-eastern side of the island is mainly rocky and is suitable for snorkelling, diving or perhaps for those who are not fond of sand. On the south-eastern side of the island, we find a series of stunning beaches, the first of which is Cala Corsara, the largest and perhaps most famous bay on the island. It is made up of three smaller beaches, and in the central one it is possible to see and enter a Tafone, a small cave dug out of a granite rock by water erosion.

Obsidian arrowheads have been found in this bay, which testifies to the passage of man between these islands in ancient times, probably used as a bridge to reach Corsica and then Europe. It is also famous for the rock in the shape of the Witch’s head, which at sunset takes on the typical profile of a huge nose, and the Bulldog-shaped rock in the centre of the bay, from which it is also possible to dive. The central area of the bay is almost free of shallows and the seabed is sandy: I advise you to always be careful when going

The shallow water in its central part does not allow the passage of

very close to the coast. Fantastic for snorkelling, however, we recommend

sailboats, so it is recommended to circumnavigate Budelli to visit it at 360

caution in summer due to vehicle traffic.

degrees.

Proceeding eastwards you come to Cala Soraya, two dunes of very white

There is a free field of buoys, so use the white ones because the red

sand, divided by a central cliff, which is reminiscent of the tears of Princess

ones are for traffic boats. Alternatively, you can drop your anchor, always

Soraya of Persia after being abandoned by the Shah. Watch out for the

remembering to be careful of the Posidonia. Particularly suitable for road-

shoal in front of the cliff, while in front of the two beaches there is a

steads thanks to its natural protection from the wind.

fantastic sandy seabed. The colours are breathtaking, and the view from above the dunes is almost surreal, between myrtle and ajacci. Be careful

Razzoli, the wildest of the three islands, is uninhabited and predominantly

when sailing between coves because there are so many shallows on the

rocky and is home to the Razzoli lighthouse, which watches over the

coast, which are sometimes difficult to spot.

Bocche di Bonifacio. Budelli is undoubtedly better known to the general

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M ad d al e na Arc h i p e l a g o

public for its famous Pink Beach. Also, an integral reserve, closed and

however, because the islands themselves and their reliefs often cause

protected since 1994. Many people thought that the pink colour was due

gusty winds and wind jumps, especially near the tips, so try to prevent

to coral, although studies have shown that it is instead the remains of a

these effects as much as possible.

microorganism that lives in Posidonia Oceanica, which deposits in the bay due to its geographical conformation, giving the sand its characteris-

The most important ones are signposted, but when approaching the

tic colour.

anchorage points, always proceed with the utmost caution. There are many of them, and depending on the reflection of the light, they can be challenging to spot.

The Archipelago is a paradise on earth, ready to welcome all those who are interested in visiting it, obviously with full respect for its rules and safeguarding its integrity as much as possible.

Good Wind to everyone!

Behind the beach is the small house where the former beach keeper, Mauro, still lives. By sea, it is only possible to slip past it to admire it, leaving the rock of the Crocodile to the left and paying attention to the shallows under the point, by the way coming from Spargi, it is the first beach you come to on entering Porto Madonna.

You cannot swim at the bottom or in front of the red buoys marking the boundaries of the bay. Cavaliere beach, along the east coast of Budelli, is further inland and is accessible from both sides. The shallows are a real

Satellite view of Cala Caprese source: Google.com

minefield of shallows, and in the event of easterly winds, it is advisable to circumnavigate Budelli and proceed, keeping Razzoli to the left, so that once you have entered the bay, you will be faced with the backdrop of Santa Maria.

Santa Maria has a lighthouse on the east side of the island, as well as a few private houses, so it’s very quiet! Worth visiting and suitable for the roadstead is Cala Santa Maria, where there are also free buoys. It is the largest beach of the three islands facing east on the opposite side of Porto Madonna. Watch out for the shoal at the entrance, marked by a red buoy, and the rocks near the quay. The seabed is sandy and suitable for safe diving. It is worth going a mile north to admire Presa island and to take a swim in the fantastic Muro cove.

Between the island of Santa Maria and Razzoli there is a pass, called the Asinelli, which with its shallow waters creates a series of unique colours and transparencies. Be careful because the seabed in this area is very

Hi, I’m Paolo and I’m in love with Sardinia.

shallow.

“I was born in Sassari to parents from Maddalena. I’ve been Practical tips for sailing in La Maddalena Archipelago

boating since I was a child, you could say in swaddling

The geographical conformation of the Archipelago means that it is al-

clothes, although it was from the age of twenty onwards that

ways possible to find sheltered places to protect oneself from the wind.

I started sailing regularly and professionally. I studied eco-

As we have said, the prevailing winds are westerly, especially in winter,

nomics and business but decided to change my life. I bought

and most of the bays are well protected. As we have seen, there is no

a sailing boat, and now I take tourists to the Archipelago. My

lack of shelter from the east, and the inland waters are relatively safe

labrador, Artemide, is (almost) never missing on board!”

as the islands all around do not allow the waves to grow. Be careful,

Follow me on @paolotraverso on Instagram!

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M AGIS TER NAVIS AU SGABE NO.3

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Sailogy offers yachts on all locations marked with this icon. For detailed information, please visit www.sailogy.com

Iglesias

CAGLIARI

Villasimius

Fancy sailing in Sardinia?

Find your ideal boat here!

SAILING MAP

SARDINIA

CARLOFORTE

60

WIND CONDITIONS

TIDAL RANGE

LEVEL OF SAILING DIFFICULTY

An area of medium difficulty. Basically the weather and wind are rather stable. The Mistral can sometimes interfere with your trip planning. In the Strait of Bonifacio between Corsica and Sardinia you can often expect 1 to 2 Bft more. A really great area - pure fun!

BEST TIME TO TRAVEL April to October.

ANCHORING

The infrastructure is excellent. Especially in the north there are countless bays and anchorage possibilities, as well as harbours and marinas.

PORT / INFRASTRUCTURE / PROVANT Many harbours and marinas on the way, well serviced.

PRICES

Beer: 4,70 Euro. Cappuccino 4,20 Euro. Local Dishes: from 8 Euro (e.g. Pizza). In the more exclusive destinations, prices can get more expensive than the average.

GETTING THERE

Flight via Olbia (North) or Cagliari (South) - or with the ferry.

LANGUAGES SPOKEN Italian and English.

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M AGIS TER NAVIS AU SGABE NO.3

WINTER SAILING TRIP AROUND MALLORCA

IN 7 DAYS

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Wi nte r-S e g e l tör n r u nd u m M allorca i n 7 Ta g e n

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M AGIS TER NAVIS IS S UE NO. 3

allorca is an attractive year-round sailing area that

the technical briefing. At the latest, the first ‘café con leche’ (coffee with

shows its beauty also and especially in winter. A

milk) or breakfast in the clubhouse brings on the holiday feeling.

circumnavigation of the island is the best way to experience the area’s incredible diversity.

Thanks to the booked early check-in, we leave Club Nàutic Arenal already at noon heading west with the intermediate destination Cala

The IRIS Yachtcharter team has put together a cruise tip with sheltered

Portals Vells (39° 28.3’ N 002° 31.6’ E). Cala Portals Vells is one of our

marinas and picturesque natural harbours, which is particularly well

favourite coves, framed by several beaches, the famous Platja del

suited for winter sailing. If the weather conditions are right, you can

Mago. This pristine beach, with its fine white sand, turquoise waters

stop by at some particularly picturesque bays for the night or a stroll.

and relaxed ambience, is a worthwhile destination on any cruise!

After a glance at the weather forecasts, the crucial question finally

After this first stop, we set the course for Port d’Andratx (39° 32.5’

arises: “Right-hand turn or left-hand turn?” In this suggested itinerary,

N 002° 22.6’ E). Port d’Andratx is popular with sailors because of its

we sail directly around Mallorca clockwise for around 170 nautical miles.

geographical location (shortest distance to Ibiza) and its picturesque

Depending on the prevailing wind direction, you can sail also anti-

surroundings. Whether we end the day onboard or indulge in the

clockwise.

culinary delights of one of the many restaurants in the picturesque old town is entirely up to us.

Leg 1 • 22 nautical miles From Club Nàutic Arenal - Playa de Palma (39° 30,3’ N 002° 44,6’ E) to

Leg 2 • 23 nautical miles

Port d’Andratx (39° 32,5’ N 002° 22,6’ E)

From Port d’Andratx (39° 32,5’ N 002° 22,6’ E) to Port de Sóller (39°

After only 15 minutes by taxi, we reach one of the most popular starting

48,0’ N 002° 41,2’ E)

ports of Playa de Palma, the Club Nàutic Arenal. The charter base

The next leg of our cruise takes us along the Serra de Tramuntana.

of IRIS Yachtcharter scores with free parking and mooring spaces, a

On its 45 nautical miles, it has only one real harbour of refuge, Port

variety of shopping facilities, delivery services, and popular restaurants

de Sóller (39° 48.0’ N 002° 41.2’ E), but all the more wild and romantic

within walking distance. In summer, not only fine sandy beaches attract

anchorages. Our first destination is the unique Cala Banyalbufar (39°

small and large crew members here but also the club’s pool, while

41.6’ N 002° 30.9’ E) with its long pebble beach. Only here can you

skippers and co-skippers get to know the charter yacht in detail during

admire such an impressive terraced mountain landscape from the sea.

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The Moors built the terraces in the 13th century. The wild mountain

the amphitheatre and the Roman excavations, the old city wall with the

range was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

parish church (Sant Jaume) and the clock tower at the town hall.

With the next beat to Port de Sóller, we sail further north and pass Port

Leg 4 • 15 nautical miles

de Valldemossa (39° 43.2’ N 002° 35.2’ E), Na Foradada, the rocky

From Port d’Alcúdia (39° 50,0’ N 003° 08,1’ E) to Cala Rajada (39° 42,5’

outcrop with its daytime restaurant (39° 45.3’ N 002° 37.2’ E) and Cala

N 003° 27,8’ E)

Deia (39° 45.8’ N 002° 38.45’ E), below the famous artists’ village. Port

Today the route follows the long sandy beaches of the Bay of Alcúdia

de Sóller is a large natural harbour that offers protection against the

and around “Cap Farrutx” to Cala Rajada (39° 42.5’ N 003° 27.8’ E).

wind from almost all directions (but not against swell). The imposing

Here too, depending on the weather, you are spoilt for choice between

mountain backdrop is characteristic, and you should not miss a ride on

various picturesque bays or the harbour town of Cala Rajada, which is

the historic tram to Sóller.

a popular holiday destination in summer. It marks Mallorca’s eastern tip. From here, it’s only 25sm to the neighbouring island of Menorca.

Leg 3 • 40 nautical miles

The harbour promenade is lined with a variety of restaurants to suit all

From Port de Sóller (39° 48,0’ N 002° 41,2’ E) to Port d’Alcúdia (39° 50,0’

tastes. The annually changing works of art along the promenade also

N 003° 08,1’ E)

deserve attention.

On the longest stage, we can marvel at Mallorca’s “wild west” and explore popular calas such as Cala de sa Calobra (39° 51.6’ N 002° 47.8’

Leg 5 • 20 nautical miles

E ) and Cala Boquer (39° 56.2’ N 003° 06.3’ E) before finally leaving

From Cala Rajada (39° 42.5’ N 003° 27.8’ E) to Portocolom (39° 24.8’ N

the west coast and going around Cabo Formentor....Our destination for

003° 16.1’ E)

the day is Port d’Alcúdia (39° 50.0’ N 003° 08.1’ E). Here we find good

The route continues south, passing the beautiful calas on the east

shelter from the mistral (strong winds from the north) as well as good

coast. Also worth a detour are the famous “Coves d’Artà”, the caves

shopping facilities and restaurants for dinner. We can spend the night

of Artá, and the dragon caves, “Cuevas del Drach”, which can be

in the main marina Alcudiamar or at anchor southwest of the outer

reached on foot when you moor in Porto Cristo.

breakwater. The historic old town of Alcúdia is about 2km away. It was founded by the Romans in 123 BC and re-founded by the Moors at the

However, our destination for today is Portocolom (39° 24.8’ N 003° 16.1’

beginning of the 8th century as “Al Kudia”. Especially worth seeing are

E), a large natural harbour with numerous mooring possibilities. Many

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Leg 7 • 25 nautical miles From Archipiélago de Cabrera (39° 09,3’ N 002° 55,6’ E) to Club Nàutic Arenal - Playa de Palma (39° 30,3’ N 002° 44,6’ E Es Trenc (39° 20.8’ N 002° 58.5’ E) is certainly no hidden gem, attracting thousands of locals and tourists every year, but on course for home port, we can’t possibly pass the south coast of Mallorca without dropping our anchor here. Es Trenc is on everyone’s radar, in every travel guide and travel blog, and for a good reason: the approximately 10 km long white sandy beach and calm waters offer an unforgettable Caribbean feeling. The salt flats are just behind the beach, and the dunes harvested the famous “Sel de Fleur” (salt flower). This delicate salt with a centuries-old history can be found in many shops on the island and is ideal for souvenirs!

opt for a buoy and cover the short distance to the quay wall by dinghy.

The pretty old town begins directly at the harbour and is considered the best-preserved old town in Mallorca. In its many alleyways, we are delighted by the large selection of restaurants and bars where we can indulge in Mallorcan delicacies.

Technical check-out at Club Nàutic Arenal is expected by 5 pm. You can spend the last evening can be spent in the tourist hotspot at Playa de Palma or in the tranquil Son Veri. Son Veri can be easily reached on foot during a beautiful sunset walk along the cliffs, which you can admire from the water, and offers a variety of restaurants for the farewell evening before spending the last night on board.

Leg 6 • 22 nautical miles From Portocolom (39° 24,8’ N 003° 16,1’ E) to the Archipiélago de Cabrera (39° 09,3’ N 002° 55,6’ E) Today we sail further south to the National Park of Archipiélago de Cabrera (39° 09,3’ N 002° 55,6’ E). Cabrera enjoys its “must-sail” reputation quite rightly! The bay is very sheltered, even in windy conditions, and the breathtaking backdrop of the castle alone is a real highlight. Popular destinations are the old castle and the ethnographic museum. The well-maintained path to the lighthouse also invites you to take a walk. With a yacht or dinghy, an excursion to the famous Blue Grotto in the neighbouring bay is also an option, but be careful, the bay may only be partially navigated, and anchoring is completely prohibited! We also highly recommend exploring the island on foot and immersing yourself in the history of the archipelago.

Cabrera is probably one of the most visited places on the Balearic

You can find dream yachts in Mallorca here:

Islands, and we recommend reserving a buoy 20 days before the

https://www.sailogy.com/operator/iris-yachtcharter-2/4125

desired overnight stay in the season. A free registration is required for a day visit, as all IRIS yachts have a day licence for buoy use until 17h.

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Sailogy offers yachts on all locations marked with this icon. For detailed information, please visit www.sailogy.com

SANT CARLES DE LA RÀPITA

Castellón de la Plana

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SAILING MAP

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Do you like what you’re reading?

Sail the Baleares with us!

LEVEL OF SAILING DIFFICULTY

The Balearic Islands are ideal for beginners. You won‘t find any particular sailing complexity here and the wind is predictable. The Spanish east coast can be more challenging.

BEST TIME TO TRAVEL Baleares: January till December.

Coastline: May till September.

ANCHORING

There are many marinas, harbours and bays on the Balearic Islands.

Along the coast, harbours and marinas perfect for spending the night.

HARBOUR FACILITIES

Harbour facilities are excellent. Supermarkets, restaurants and shops are easy to find everywhere. Electricity and water are widely available in all marinas.

PRICES

Beer: 4 Euro. Cappuccino 2,50 Euro. Local Dishes: up to a maximum of 19 Euro.

GETTING THERE

Nearest airports: Barcelona, Girona, Alicante.

LANGUAGES SPOKEN Spanish and English.

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M AGIS TER NAVIS AU SGABE NO.3

A 7-day Itinerary in the

CYCLADES with Skipper Periklis

Written in collaboration with Periklis Alatzas, a Greek skipper who’s been sailing the Cyclades for some years now.

“Hi! My name is Periklis, half Greek half French. I grew up in Santorini, Greece. I’ve been sailing since the age of 7. At 7 it is also when I started competing, something I’ve been doing for many years, and still do ever so often when I have the time.

I always loved the sensation of sailing and the freedom that comes with it. Being in the endless blue it’s just a happy place! I began working professionally on yachts as a skipper early in life and since then I’ve sailed pretty much most of the Mediterranean Sea. My summers are usually spent in the Aegean and winters mostly doing boat deliveries from the northwest coast of France and arriving in Greece. But my favourite sailing spot is in the Cyclades with the cool breeze of the “meltemi” and the white caps. Together with the wild hills of the islands, their iconic architecture and stunning bays.”

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A 7 -D ay Iti ne r ar y I n T h e C ycl ade s With S k i pp e r Pe ri kl i s

(when the true wind is at a right angle to the sailing craft) as the prevailing winds come from the north. Sifnos Island is known for its gastronomy and of course the beauty of its views from Appolonia, the capital of the island: the toponym ‘appolonia’ means that the city is devoted to Apollo and it is built amphitheatrically on three smooth shaped hills. Sifnos has more than 200 churches (some say more than 300!) and is home to the most important culinary event in the Greek islands, the Cycladic Gastronomic Festival. Sifnos has also an important tradition in the production of terracotta ceramics.

As we get closer to the island, we will stop for a swim in the beautiful bay of Faros, in the southeast of Sifnos. Faros is considered the safest port on the island, which was also the official port of Sifnos until 1883. The name Faros comes from its lighthouse at the entrance of the harbour.

Day one

It is a fishing village consisting of three consecutive sandy beaches,

We start off our charter from Paros in the Cyclades

Fasolou, Faro and Glyph.

Once the boat is prepared and the provisioning has been done it’s time for the safety briefing. We will start our journey from Parikia which is the

After lunch, we will head south of Sifnos to Platis Gialos: here we can

capital of Paros. Paros is a unique island in the heart of the Aegean Sea

either moor at the harbour or stay at anchor. The bay is well protected

and belongs to the Cyclades. Paros is the perfect departing point, being

and the sandy bottom has a good holding. Get ready and go explore!! I

close to other famous Cyclades islands such as Mykonos, Santorini and

recommend having dinner in one of the great taverns on the island.

Naxos. Famous for its wonderful beaches and beautiful waters, it is also known as one of the best destinations in the Cyclades for windsurfing and kitesurfing.

A must-visit place of Paros is by far the buzzing town of Naoussa. The second biggest town of Paros and the centre of nightlife and great Greek taverns and ouzeries, Naoussa is built amphitheatrical around its port. If you love photography, I recommend visiting the town during the early morning hours and capture that moment of colourful contrasts between the blue-domed chapel of St Nikolas and the hundreds of colourful fishing boats, the numerous “Gouna” fish in front of every restaurant during their sun-drying process and the photogenic white and fuchsia Linardo bar.

Day three After our usual morning swim and filling breakfast, we begin our sailing downwind towards the Island of Folegandros. Just south of Sifnos, our destination is about 20nm at about 2:40, we head to the beautiful bay of Vathy. With its crystal waters and the sandy bottom, this is a great spot for holding against the north-prevailing winds of the Cyclades. Make sure you have some lines at some rocks at the shore with your sternlooking north and enjoy a swim as lunch is prepared!

Folegandros is known for the amazing views of the main village Chora and the food! That’s exactly what we’re going to do! Get a taxi or a bus We depart at around 17:30’/18:00 and will cruise the coast heading to

ride and visit the highest village Sifnos Chora. With a short hike, you’ll

Despotiko via the beautiful channel of Paros/Antiparos (which literally

reach the beautiful monastery and enjoy the sunset with the stunning

means ‘opposite of Paros’, that’s exactly where you’ll find it). Despotiko

architecture of the village as it is built right on the edge of the cliffside.

is situated west of Paros and Antiparos, about 12 nm (about 1:40’). Drop

As always, I recommend unwinding in one of the local taverns in Chora.

your anchor here and take a plunge. Here the sunsets are quite special.

Perfect when topped up with an onboard dine or at a tavern with the

Day four

view of the sunset.

Today we have an early start: we’re heading east of Folegandros to Ios. We are going to snack on the way and have a fast sail on a beam reach.

Day two

Always having a reef or two depending on the wind speed as the gusts

I love starting my days with a swim and then breakfast on board. It’s a

can be quite strong passing through the impressive cliffs of Folegandros

special sail today: our boat will be heading westward to Sifnos Island,

and Sikinos. Our sail will last about 3 hours (that of course will depend on

about 14nm from Paros (about 1:40’). The route is usually beam reach

our speed. The distance is about 23nm to one of the best and safest 69

M AGIS TER NAVIS IS S UE NO. 3

bays of Ios: Maganari. The waters here are incredibly shallow and sandy:

their local drinks: Rakomelo a Greek mixed alcoholic drink, made of

again a perfect anchor holding if you wish to spend the night.

two types of grape place brandy with honey and several spices such as cinnamon, cardamom and other regional herbs, often used as a

We’re going to have a big lunch since everyone is hungry and enjoy the

digestive, traditionally used as a home remedy for a sore throat and

calm and the beauty nature offers around here. In the afternoon, we will

cough.

get ready to visit the port of Ios, about 6nm 1:00’ and then Ios Chora (the main village). Ios is known for its quaint little village and its multiple alleys

Day six

to wander around as well as the nightlife. I suggest having your dinner in

After buying some traditional breakfast from the bakery and having a

one of the many taverns for some incredible Greek seafood.

swim in the turquoise waters, it’s time to head north-west towards Antiparos, about 24nm (3:00/3:30’hr). On our way, we will visit the southwest side of Naxos (about 8/9nm) to visit the beautiful bays of Pirgaki and Alykos. You can choose to have your lunch on board right here.

The many dunes and the perennial cedar trees which form a small wooded area along the seafront give this beach a distinctly exotic vibe.

It is an unusual surrounding, which brings to mind the Mediterranean coasts of North Africa rather than a typical beach of the Aegean Sea. Next, we will head towards Antiparos, 16nm (about two hours). Reef the mainsail as winds always increase in intensity in the channel of Naxos and Paros. I suggest making another stop at Antiparos and Paros channel at the islands of Panteronisia and enjoy a long swim in one of the most vibrant blue and turquoise colours. Slowly start cruising the channel north to the main village of Antiparos where we will drop the anchor as there is no dock or harbour but a very safe anchorage nevertheless. Have a walk around the cute alleys and indulge in some

Day five

shopping at the boutiques and gift shops before or after dinner.

After breakfast, get ready for some upwind sailing north-east of Ios, towards Koufonisia. One of the gems of the Cyclades. The sail will be a little bit longer today because it requires some tacking against the wind, about 25nm 3:30’/4hrs always having a reef in the main and off we go!

With its turquoise waters and the sandy beaches! We will stop at Kato Koufonisia - the name of Koufonisi comes from the word ‘Koufio’ hollow and ‘Nisi’ island because of all the sea caves around the islands. Drop the anchor on the southeast part of Kato Koufonisi. Let’s take a plunge here and then prepare for lunch! All around the island the waters are turquoise and shallow therefore anchoring shouldn’t be an issue.

Day seven Our last day is going to be a bit of a “lazy” day: Drop your anchor again on the north bay of Antiparos and take your first swim of the day (my favourite). We will then start cruising north-east of Antiparos towards our starting line. On your way there, stop at the bay of Krios, about a nautical mile west of Parikia. The waters here are superb and I always recommend a bit of snorkelling around here. Later in the afternoon, time to sail to our starting point, Paros. We will refuel and run the final checks of our boat. Once the check out is complete, how about taking a stroll in the capital, finding yourself a tavern by the sea, taking a final glimpse at the sunset! Alternatively, even better, take a bus ride or taxi to Naoussa, in the northeastern corner of Paros, explore the “pirate” village and end your day with dinner and a few drinks...the nightlife here is buzzing!

Once done with our food and our swimming, we’re going to anchor at Pano Koufonisi, about 4/5nm (about 35/40’ max) and drop our anchor at the Anchorage outside of the small harbour with the iconic picture of the main village and the beautiful waters. I most certainly recommend exploring this island and its quaint alleys. Make sure to try one of 70

Start following Periklis and his sailing whereabouts throughout Greece and the Med on Instagram @Periklis.pe

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WUND CONDITIONS Sailogy offers yachts on all locations marked with this icon. For detailed information, please visit www.sailogy.com

TIDAL RANGE

IONIAN SEA WIND CONDITIONS

Fancy exploring Greece by boat?

Find your perfect boat here!

SAILING MAP

GREECE

TIDAL RANGE

LEVEL OF SAILING DIFFICULTY

The Ionian Sea is a sailing area suitable for less experienced sailors: the islands create sheltered navigation and the winds are light to moderate. In the Aegean, on the other hand, the Meltemi can blow, even in the heart of the summer months. Thus we recommend it for a more experienced sailing crew.

BEST TIME TO TRAVEL April to October.

ANCHORING

Classic marinas or buoy fields are not common. Shore power and water is not available everywhere, so better check before arrival.

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The infrastructure is very good. Supermarkets, restaurants and shops can be found quickly and easily anywhere.

PRICES

Beer: 1,80 Euro. Cappuccino 3,40 Euro. Local dishes: up to a maximum of 10,50 Euro.

LANGUAGES SPOKEN Greek and English.

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M AGIS TER NAVIS IS S UE NO. 3

AN UNFORGETTABLE FIRST TIME ONBOARD My exploration of the Dodecanese islands and their food delicacies….(not to mention the starters!)

Can you tell us a little bit about you? Where are you from? What’s

You picked a boat with a skipper - are you happy with this decision?

your story?

What made having a skipper a plus for your trip?

I’m Anna-Lena, 23 years old, and I live in Germany. I have loved the

The skipper we ‘booked’ was a friend of ours. It was his sixth time

water since I was a kid. Doesn’t matter if it’s sea, river, lake or pool.

sailing from Kos so he was very familiar with the surroundings and the

When I’m on, in or next to it, I relax right away. I like to meet new people

staff at the marina. He knows exactly where to stop, what are the best

and have good talks, especially when I’m on vacation and you start

taverns and bars. And well, let’s be honest, eating and dining are a big

conversations with random strangers. It’s awesome the sort of people

part of a holiday! So knowing where to indulge in some authentic Greek

you will meet and the stories you will hear! I love taking photos, to keep

food is imperative!

some of my most memorable moments recorded forever.

A skipper on board is a massive plus. The meltemi ‘greeted’ us for two days during our sail, yet we had no reason to be afraid because our

You’ve sailed from Kos Greece this summer. Was it your first time

skipper knew exactly what to do and where to go.

sailing?

It was the first time sailing, yes. I had already been on a boat before

The most memorable spot you anchored?

and slept on it but before this year I had never sailed. It was great and

It was definitely Vathi - Astypalea. A wide bay with incredible views:

I’ve never slept so well. The gentle waves in the bay made the boat

perhaps five houses maximum, a simple, typical Greek tavern and

sway a little, like a rocking cradle. That was so calming and soothing!

many goats. We stayed there for two nights. It looks like a lagoon due to its sheltered bay (approximately 50 m long) which restricts the

What is it you loved about this trip?

access of sea water. The land around the ‘lagoon’ works as a shelter

That we did not have to share a hotel, a breakfast hall or pool with

from the wind. When the Meltemi hits that part of the coastline, you can

hundreds of other tourists. We had our own little private hotel at sea.

barely notice it.

Also we weren’t bound to one spot or place, we were able to go wherever we wanted and woke up every morning in a different new

Maria from the Taberna Oyzeri is a classic Greek lady and loves her

spot.

job. You’ll find exquisite caught of the day, vegetables, tzatziki, salad and ouzo. Absolutely superlative. As you walk in her tavern, you will

You get to see the islands from a different point of view. The beauti-

also meet a little sheep, that you’ll soon learn is an important part of

ful bays and islands from the sea were absolutely different, special.

her family. But no worries, the sheep is wearing some diapers ;-)

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A n Unforg e ttab l e Fi r s t Ti m e O n b o a rd

“Sailing Sailing is incredibly relaxing and calming. You are immediately away from the everyday stress. Sailing takes you straight into another world. Let it work on you, it will change you! After your trip you will have a special smile on your face.

When you experience it, you will know what I mean :)“ :)“ Eating on or offboard?

We always made our breakfast on board and had dinner offboard. Our crew kind of started a bit of a challenge as to which tavern or restaurant would serve the best starters. So we tried the tzatziki, the zucchini balls and other great Greek small bites to find out which one has the best stuff. A fun routine to keep our stomachs full!

During breakfast we would normally plan our day, what we wanted to see and where we wanted to go. For lunch we would have fresh fruit, nuts or made light sandwiches on board - or we would go to a cafe if we were visiting a village. For our crew it was vital to make sure we all knew when and what we’d eat, because a hungry crew turns quickly into a hangry crew!

What would you say to someone who’s thinking about going on a sailing trip for the first time?

Go for it and try it yourself! It is a great way to explore new destinations abroad! You do not have overcrowded pools or annoying neighbours - and if you do, you can easily sail away. You’ve got the entire sea for you, people you love around, the best pool you can have!

My conclusion….

Sailing is incredibly relaxing and calming. You are immediately away from the everyday stress. Sailing takes you straight into another world.

Let it work on you, it will change you! After your trip you will have a special smile on your face. When you experience it, you will know what I mean :) One last, special thanks to Armin, our friend and skipper who made our trip this memorable.

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M AGIS TER NAVIS AU SGABE NO.3

I COULDN’T LIVE WITHOUT IT My third year running in Croatia with the family My name is Roberto, I’m 54 years old from Italy (not far from Milan).

I’m the father of three boys aged 15-13 and 11 (Edoardo, Leonardo, Riccardo). This is my third year running sailing in Croatia.

On our first week, I sailed with my family on a Dufour 412 GL embarking from Trogir. On our second week, we set sail together with another family embarking from Biograd Na Moru.

Our boats were excellent, efficient, comfortable and suitable for the type of sailing we faced and the crew we sailed with.

If you could choose one place (bay, port, town, etc...) in particular that you visited with your crew during this holiday that you will remember forever, which one would you choose and why?

Generally speaking, I prefer to stop in the bays and do just one day in the middle of the week in a port to refuel (water and food and maybe a little Croatian taverna).

I particularly love Sibenik: besides being a quaint and gorgeous historical town to visit, Marina Mandalina is extremely nice and you can easily spend the night. It’s very well equipped and has friendly and knowledgeable staff.

Almost all the bays are stunning and it’s tricky to choose which one’s my favourite. I generally choose them based on the position I’m in and after consulting the pilot book.

Croatia, especially in its central part (Kornati), is full of many shelters and great mooring spots. The sea is almost always breezy and wave-free, making it ideal for sailing even with a less-than-experienced crew.

You have chosen the option without a skipper. What did you particularly like about this choice?

I am the skipper of the boats I hire, and for me, this is fundamental when I go sailing. Being the captain of your boat, taking care of your crew, involving people in the manoeuvres, transferring the love I have for sailing and giving them confidence in more complex sailing times is a pleasure beyond compare. When I get on board, my whole world is there; inside 12/15 metres is my family, friends, and everything I love.

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I C oul d n’ t Live Wit h o ut It

I know that I will have to deal with all sorts of unexpected circumstanc-

recommend having clear expectations of what it is like to live on a boat

es one may find himself in when sailing. My mind stops thinking about

with other people. I could make a small list of things to think about

work, problems at home, at school, with the kids, and becomes free

before deciding whether or not to go sailing:

and focused on managing the boat and the crew. For a fortnight a year, I live another life. I’m a different person.

• Increase your threshold of tolerance Be prepared to deal with a few minor inconveniences, such as using toilets that are never comfortable, using little water to wash, taking turns managing the galley, filling the fridge.... in short, getting busy • Put up with the skipper a bit (sometimes they can be a bit heavy.

This is clearly not my case...I hope at least! Perhaps best to ask my crew…

• Sharing spaces, which are few and small Understand that sailing does not mean going on a tour with pre-established stages at all costs....at sea, the sea rules. If the skipper thinks that you can’t set sail on a particular day, or that you can’t anchor in a certain bay, or that you can’t reach the coolest city in the world (because friends have told us so and we want to say when we get back: “I’ve been there...”), you have to get used to the idea that plans can change....and often do. The phrase “go where the wind takes you” seems like a trivial one for a boater, but if you want to enjoy a holiday peacefully, then get used to this sacrosanct principle too.

Sailing at 8/9 knots with the boat heeling, sleeping or having a spaghettata in a roadstead with friends, seeing the sunsets, watching the sunrise, taking a swim in crystal-clear waters are indeed simple things. Yet, they give you enormous satisfaction in that precise moment, and you carry them inside for the rest of your life.

If you are prepared to deal with this simple scenario, then the reward will be enormous because you will be able to enjoy the real pleasures of sailing and life on board in general. Sailing at 8/9 knots with the boat heeling, sleeping or having a spaghettata in a roadstead with friends,

Do you have any advice for those considering a sailing holiday for the

seeing the sunsets, watching the sunrise, taking a swim in crystal-clear

first time?

waters are indeed simple things. Yet, they give you enormous satisfac-

My advice is to try it out for a weekend first, to understand what life on

tion in that precise moment, and you carry them inside for the rest of

board is really like and to understand your tolerance to seasickness -

your life. All this is life on board, with its good and bad points. I could

something completely manageable following a few simple tips. I also

never do without it...

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