Magister Navis International Edition Issue No. 2

Get inspired. Sail more.

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INSIDE BAVARIA INTERVIEW WITH CEO

MICHAEL

MÜLLER

IT’S A WOMAN’S WORLD ONBOARD

STEALING THE SHOW

GET INSPIRED WITH OUR SAILING ITINERARIES IN THE

MEDITERRANEAN Ten de r to 1

M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

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Legal Notice Editors: Paola Di Pietro, Peter Kollmann-Jehle, Maren Schmidt Project Manager: Paola Di Pietro Art Director & Designer: Yasemin Yavuzbaş Image Sourcing: Paola Di Pietro, Yasemin Yavuzbaş, Peter Kollmann-Jehle Image sources: shutterstock.com, Sailogy S.A., Bavaria Yachts, @annaundmalin, blauwasser.de, Omero Moretti Vela, Anastasia Dmytruk, Quarterdeck.co, Blue-world.org, Thanos Katsigkras. ©2021 Sailogy S.A. 3

M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

Dear readers, dear friends of Sailogy In this issue, we’ve pushed our sailing frontiers by taking you on an Atlantic crossing (perhaps metaphorically what to some of us 2020 felt like). We’ve reached the final shore and cannot wait to start this season full steam ahead. In this issue, ladies steal the show with captains Anna and Malin, two girls in their early 20s sharing their perspective of one year of Covid from the Baltic Sea. With three Atlantic crossings and several thousand miles on her shoulders, Sara tells us how determination and technique are the foundation on any journey, no matter your gender.

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Our second issue of Magister Navis is a testament to a sector that couldn’t be readier to set sails.

That’s what the CEO of Bavaria, Michael Müller, shares in the interview you’ll find in this issue. With him, we learn that uncertainty and challenges brought by the pandemic have also steered the sector towards greater innovation and resilience.

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Resilience and passion are also what drives Greek olive oil producer, Thanos, who takes us on a personal journey through his mythical olive groves in Poros Island (who ever thought olive oil could make the best cocktails?). Plus, to make your packing smoother, together with our expert Sailogy sailors, we’ve worked on a practical checklist of what you mustn’t forget before your sail.

So whether you’re still pondering where your boat will take you next or you’ve already picked your crew and destination, I hope this magazine can inspire you with some tips and ideas for this exciting summer season at sea!

Sincerely, Manlio Accardo

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LIFESTYLE 14

Safeguarding Biodiversity: The LifeDelfi Project

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Life Onboard: Meet Helene & Giles

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Boozey Report: Our Top 5 Beers

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Saving Marine Life in the Adriatic

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A Special Foodey Treat in the Heart of Tuscan Elba

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The Perfect Family Sail: With a Taste of Greek-Ness All Around

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Sailing to Flavoursome Greek Groves

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Top 10 Coastal Croatian Restaurants

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Sailing in the Baltic Sea (Life onboard during the pandemic)

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Inside Bavaria: Interview with CEO, Michael Müller

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Rescuer in Distress: The automatic lifejacket - a short guide for beginners

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Atlantic Crossing: Are You Ready?

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Stealing the Show: It’s a Woman’s World Onboard with Sara Teghini

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Pack your suitcase like a (sailing) pro

SAILING ITINERARIES 52

Underestimated Pearl of the Adriatic: Istria

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Sailing Info: Croatia

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Vive Mallorca

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Sailing Info: Baleares

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Greece: Sailing to the Absolute Best of the Aegean Sea

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Sailing Info: Greece

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Navigating the Aeolian Archipelago With a Local

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Sailing Info: Southern Italy / Malta Local 5

M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

SAILING IN THE BALTIC SEA

Life Onboard During the Pandemic Both in their early 20s, Anna and Malin have made their dream come true and after completing their education, they haven’t stopped sailing, mainly in the Mediterranean. Just as the two sailors were about to start their next endeavour, Covid 19 breaks over the world and, well, the seas. They are somewhat trapped in the Baltic Sea. Well, trapped may be a bit of an exaggeration because while many of us have been forced to stay in quarantine in our living rooms, the two of them have had to learn to juggle in the new situation and in a new home territory. Something that was made more complex with the ongoing borders open, borders closed, and the evolving travel restrictions turned out to be not so easy to manage. In this travel report, they share their newly-found love for the Baltic Archipelago, life with a mask on trains and regularly adapting to the new restrictions. Here’s their recap of what it was like to sail during the pandemic.

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S ail i ng i n th e B al tic S e a ( Li fe onb oard d u r i ng th e p a n de m ic )

March 2020 Spring is approaching, but the pandemic is just around the corner.

This month we wanted to finally get back into the water after the winter, but suddenly this pandemic came instead of the crane appointment. So our boat, the Hevandelli, remains on dry land. Time for more boat work and dreaming of the most beautiful places in the Baltic Sea. April 2020 Big Mediterranean plans? Not in these times!

No significant improvements on the horizon, but the crane date for early May is finally set. The idea of discovering Norway, Denmark and Sweden under sail is solidifying. The temperatures are rising, and so is our anticipation. The case numbers, on the other hand, are slowly dropping.

wanted to go straight to Norway, but the borders are still closed to tourists. It’s a crazy world here in the middle of Northern Europe. We take what we can - namely the Danish South Sea. From the island of Anholt, where we also get to see some Swedish ships, we are drawn to the country that does everything differently in Covid19 anyway - Sweden.

August 2020 Culture shock: the Swedish way.

A fabulous Swedish summer dream we experience here - everything is allowed and open. Even partying in bars and clubs is possible. We feel like we’re in our own little world, far away from Germany. Stony archipelago landscapes and breathtaking anchor bays with dreamlike sunsets.

September 2020 There is no way to Norway!

Norway still didn’t want us. Will it ever work out with us again? So we head south along the Swedish west coast again to find a suitable place for the winter. Partly because of the Corona situation, we decide to stay in the north this year and not spend the winter in the somewhat warmer Mediterranean. We are also enchanted by the Baltic Sea with its diverse coasts and islands.

October 2020 Denmark and the sudden stop!

We sail over to Denmark again. The change of country is initially possible without any problems, but a few days later, apart from Sweden, entry from Germany is no longer even allowed. So there is no visit from home for us.

What a pity.

May 2020 Off to the water! Virus or no virus...

Here we go, Hevandelli’s sword is finally back in the water. The final purchases of equipment and provisions are made. The situation around the virus eases somewhat. German harbours are finally open again, albeit without sanitary facilities. No matter, the main thing is that the sailing season is open.

June 2020 Netflix and Couchsurfing in quarantine? No thanks, we’d rather go to a boot camp with our grandparents.

For us, too, it’s finally time to go - with the three of us on board, we make a detour to Germany’s only high-sea island, Helgoland in the North Sea, before heading out into the Baltic. The harbours, which are relatively empty at the beginning, fill up in the month. We’re no longer alone. Once we’ve arrived in the Schlei, it’s a bit of normality in pandemic times: crowds of people are flocking to the water’s edge, and anyone who wants to get a place in the harbour has to be quick. Everything as usual? Well, that’s okay for us on the boat; we keep to ourselves anyway. And instead of a living room, it just smells like saltwater.

July 2020 Summer, sun, Denmark!

Off to Denmark, the sailor’s paradise for the Germans. Big islands to sail on and no more masks. Somehow no one worries about getting sick here anymore. Strange. But it doesn’t go any further for us either: we actually

November 2020 Mutations and alternative stations.

After lengthy deliberations, we decided on Sweden and thus against Denmark. That is where the first mutated type of the virus appears. The Danes close the borders and restrict public life. This means we are no longer welcome here, and instead of Copenhagen, we now choose Malmö as 7

M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

our winter base. There we want to wait out the coldest months of the year and then continue sailing east in the spring.

December 2020 Xmas@home Christmas at home - that would be it. Fortunately, we can enter via Denmark by train without any problems, but we have to complete a 10-day quarantine and get tested. A sailing year almost without Corona comes to an end for us. However, Germany is in its second wave, and it is a slight shock for us to return from open Sweden.

Our top 5 spots in the Baltic Sea ANHOLT ISLAND - DENMARK A small island in the middle of the Kattegat, accessible only by ferry or on your own keel. Car-free. Varied nature - from wide sandy beaches to pine forests and a unique dune landscape. The busy harbour is a nice balance to the quiet nature.

GOTHENBURG ARCHIPELAGO - SWEDEN Many small and large islands off the coast of Gothenburg with countless possibilities for sheltered anchoring - whether directly on the rock with a stern anchor or in one of the most popular anchoring bays. Sometimes you even have your own tiny island all to yourself. Rocky, barren landscape and the most beautiful sunsets we have experienced on the west coast.

January 2021 New year. New experiences.

We start the new sailing year full of anticipation. Back at the boat, we only observe the situation in Germany through the media. We are glad to be here. Even though spring is far from being in sight. There is even snow on the deck of our boat for a few days, and we are glad to have a running heating system.

February 2021 Northern lights from land.

As we can’t sail any further with the ship anyway due to the frozen harbour basin, we take a train trip to the far north to Kiruna. Across the country, we travel by train - as always in Sweden without masks or other travel restrictions - and get to see the Northern Lights. Breathtaking. What must that look like on a ship in the middle of the ocean?

March 2021 One year so far The pandemic plagues us for a year - and we are finally back on the water - we hoist the sails and sail along the south coast of Sweden. Unfortunately, we are not allowed to sail to the very famous Danish island of Bornholm. But that’s okay and accepted. We skip this beautiful spot and sail along the east coast towards the north. We are so happy to travel here at all - and curious to see how next year will develop.

If you want to hear, read and see more of Anna and Malin’s adventures and experiences, you can follow them on: @annaundmalin 8

Annaundmalin

Annaundmalin.de

FJÄLLBACKA - SWEDEN Many red wooden houses, typical Swedish idyll. A town at the foot of the Vetteberg, from where you have an incredible view over the Archipelago. The Kugsklyfta, an impressive rock crevice, is located near the harbour.

KOSTER ISLANDS - SWEDEN The Koster Islands are part of an archipelago with two main islands, home to several seal colonies. They form Sweden’s only maritime national park. Several are the hiking trails across the islands in the southern and northern part of the Archipelago, and they are surrounded by abundant nature and great places to swim.

IDDEFJORDEN - SWEDEN/ NORWAY Border fjord between Sweden and Norway - rocky landscape with dense fir forests. Here you get a real Scandinavian feeling. Deep anchor bays. All alone in the middle of nature.

Made for forest walks to look for blueberries and chanterelles.

RESCUER IN DISTRESS The automatic lifejacket - a short guide for beginners A brief distraction, a mistake at the wheel or a misjudged weather situation...There are many scenarios in which it can quickly be “man overboard”. In many cases, the excursion into the cool water ends smoothly - thanks to the lifejacket worn. Solid lifejackets often restrict our range of movement. The automatic lifejacket is often the more comfortable option.

There is an enormous choice of models and price ranges on the market, and it is sometimes difficult to keep track of them all. Here is a brief overview of the main features: Buoyancy The minimum buoyancy should be 100 Newton. Waistcoats below 100 Newton are mostly buoyancy aids (50N) that are unsuitable for rescue at sea. The natural buoyancy usually starts at 130-150 Newton up to a maximum of 300N. The higher the Newton number, the more stable and faster the body is turned into a fainting position and rises out of the water accordingly. By the way, bodyweight does not necessarily play a significant role. Air pockets instead hinder the turning under (heavy) sailing clothes. Here, a higher Newton number can be decisive in an emergency and heavy seas. But as a Mediterranean charterer, you certainly can’t go wrong with a Newton of 150 or more.

Release Automatic waistcoats inflate within seconds of hitting the water surface with the help of a gas cartridge. Usually, a tablet that dissolves is responsible for the release. For this reason, be a little extra careful with automatic waistcoats that they do not get wet, if possible, to prevent false triggering. It is always advisable to have a replacement set with a cartridge and tablet on board so that you can continue to use the waistcoat in the event of accidental activation.

Crotch strap, harness and more...

Waistcoats in the upper price range, which are among the best on the market, are already equipped with light, hood, harness attachment point and crotch strap as standard.

In principle, all waistcoats follow the ISO standard, which ensures that the minimum requirement for rescue is guaranteed. However, a large number of waistcoats not only meet that standard but also fulfil important aspects beyond that standard and have many extras on top. The basic equipment of any valid lifejacket must include a spray hood to prevent secondary drowning, a harness to attach a line, as well as a whistle and lamp. Emergency-locating systems are worth adding, but not everyone considers them vital.

For those who do not want to get the premium price type, we recommend the following minimum equipment: Possibility of manual/oral inflation A D ring for picking in lifelines 150 N buoyancy A recent innovation in the world of lifejackets has been it being part of a regular sailing jacket (e.g. from Marinepool).

The price range is significant - between 90 and 300 EUR - but our advice is that safety on board is always worth investing on.

Regardless of which waistcoat you choose, no waistcoat can do much about safety if you don’t wear it correctly.

Before first use, be sure to read and follow the instructions on how to wear it. Even the best waistcoat is good to no use if you have not adequately fitted its straps. Tighten the straps as much as possible and make sure that none of the straps is twisted. This can cost lives.

Unfortunately quickly forgotten, but also of particular importance, is the regular maintenance of the waistcoats. The TÜV seal on the waistcoats provides information about the subsequent maintenance, which you should do every two years. Don’t be confused by the green lights on modern waistcoats. They still need to be inspected to ensure they are in good working order. You should consider replacing your waistcoat after 10 years of use..

More details about life jackets can be found at blauwasser.de

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MAGISTER M a g iste r Nav NAVIS i s Issue AUSGABE No 2 NO.2

INSIDE BAVARIA Interview with Bavaria CEO, Michael Müller Known since its founding as an innovation leader in serial yacht manufacturing, Bavaria Yachts CEO Michael Müller shares his overall sentiment of optimism for the sector and the months looking ahead despite travel uncertainties are still on the horizon. Over 450 sailing yachts and motorboats are manufactured at the shipyard of Bavaria Yachts in Giebelstadt, near Würzburg, Germany. Four production lines, each 125 meters long, a carpenter’s workshop with the complete yacht manufacture chain and two halls to manufacture hulls and decks.

How are shipyards doing in times of coronavirus?

Good so far, that’s what we hear from Giebelstadt. Michael Müller, a native of the Rhineland - is full of infectious optimism. And why not - the pandemic is giving boat builders an opportunity for a record summer.

Actually, we would probably all be in Düsseldorf right now asking each other these questions face to face, but now the conversation is taking place via video conference, and I think our industry is like all the others, we’ve all been shaken up a bit for sure.

Let’s start a bit more globally: How has Bavaria been doing in the last 12 months, going back and forth between lockdowns and global and local travel restrictions?

Yes, fortunately, our production has been running relatively unhindered since the beginning of the pandemic, sometime in March. Thus, we were able to deliver all the yachts to the dealers on time at the beginning of the year, for the last season.

I think we were one of the few shipyards. The French were very severely affected. They even had closures, including Nautitech. Of course, we have adapted production, but also administration, we have adapted processes, the way employees deal with each other with new concepts. We also started working remotely in the early days, despite some resistance from some unions. In the end, we got out of it well. Nevertheless, our employees had about three months of short-time work due to the lockdown, because we received practically no orders from the dealers for the first three months after it started.

They were all very reluctant. The biggest challenge we had back then, but still have today, is our suppliers because very often, the supply chain could not be guaranteed, and we had to switch to alternatives very often. Nevertheless, we were able to deliver all the yachts on time. Of course, we have changed our plans for the coming year. But for new developments, we have a specific plan for the refurbishment that we have here.

We have not changed that. So we have continued to develop here, and I think that was very good. Since June, as many people have noticed, even when some activities started opening

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again in the charter sector, our dealers have had an excellent business, it has to be said. Some of them said that we have no more second-hand boats. We sold out. And that’s when we started to have the best sales ever. July was our most profitable month, August went on like that, and we sold most boats. Today we can happily say that we have sold all the boats we can produce for the coming season.

That’s good news. Would you say that travel restrictions may have triggered a desire of owning a boat?

Müller: Well, I have already said that since earlier last spring: the number of orders has skyrocketed, that has to be said clearly! And these orders that we have had are very many owner boats. That’s just the way it is. Yes, you can see it in the equipment, and we also know it from the dealers. And the big charter companies, which we also supply directly, have, of course, held back massively or had to hold back because there is a lot of uncertainty.

And you can sometimes leave a boat in the charter for a year or two longer before you buy a replacement. Nevertheless, I have also noticed that people start travelling again as soon as travel restrictions ease. There are bookings again, and that was also generally noticeable. But we are very cautious not to talk about a burden.

Yes, we have also noticed that people travel comparatively more as soon as they have the opportunity. May I ask something more personal: What has annoyed you the most in this situation from a professional standpoint?

I have been in many other sectors and still have a lot of contacts across industries. Our sector is doing pretty well compared to others. And yet, when I look around, I do miss that positive vibe you get when we could go on holidays, make plans, make day trips. And at the moment people are complaining that not all of them can deliver the yachts they would like to sell.

So you expect a bit more optimism and confidence?

There is a saying in German, which roughly translates in ‘people always find the small percentage of the negative side of something’ meaning that unfortunately, some people cannot see the bright side of a moment, as tragic as this Covid has been.

Looking ahead, this time last year, we witnessed the new C42, at a world premiere. Now the C38. It seems smaller. What’s been the response to that latest model?

Die C38 segelt in einem hart umkämpften Segment. Segelboote um die 11 Meter passen genauso gut auf die Ostsee wie ins Mittelmeer.

Das ist gerade für unsere Privatkunden das entscheidende Kriterium.

Die Bavaria C38 ist daher das wichtigste Boot der C-Serie und darf den Kunden nicht enttäuschen. Auf ihr baut die Grundlage für unser Image für die ganze C-Linie auf.

Im Motorbootbereich wurde jetzt ein neuer Daycruiser vorgestellt – wo geht hier der Trend hin?

Die Sportboote der Marke Bavaria Yachts werden auch weiterhin unser Fokus sein, aber vor allem der Außenbordermarkt wächst weltweit. Hier muss sich Bavaria für die Zukunft neu aufstellen, will man ein Globalplayer sein. Bis dahin ist noch ein langer Weg für uns und wir müssen diese Märkte auch verstehen.

Last year at the Boat Show in Düsseldorf, I had the pleasure of talking at length with your product manager on the C42. He could hardly contain his euphoria when he told us about it. What makes the C38 different, any specific innovative feature, its wow-effect?

It was imperative to us that the new model would be a family cruiser and, as part of our C-line, needed to meet the same criteria of the other models. That means that no matter the type of crew you sail with, you can have sailing fun with it. Yes, so it must not come too short. That was very important to us with this boat. That’s not the case with all the other competitors. And that was one of the goals we pursued here. At the same time, the question is always, if they become much smaller, what do you want to save on? And so on, because the price is lower. And despite all that, we have focused on functionality and, if possible, not skimp on anything.

For example, the bathing platform is one of those things you have to take separately. These are small examples where we have done something and reduced the costs accordingly. Otherwise, of course, the basis of the C 42 is fantastic, that we have these Chinese in the corner, that we have this V-bow, which gives a lot of room, and then, of course, we have spaces in this ship - front cabin aft cabin - where you say wow, that’s just the sense, that’s due to this design that we have here. With these two boats. And we have substantially big cabins.

I think that’s undoubtedly worldclass, what we have. So I haven’t seen any of the other competitors that have anywhere near as big a cabin, and when you see the salon live - you don’t realise you’re on a 38.

I’m looking forward to it, absolutely. Let’s leave the sailing topic for a second and go back to engine boats.

In terms of latest on day cruisers, where is the trend going?

Well, I would say for the time being, our focus is still on the classic sports boats. But we must not ignore the fact that the outboard market is growing worldwide. And here, we simply have to position ourselves looking ahead if we want to go a bit more global at some point. We can’t just leave this outboard sector behind. That’s not possible. It’s always a long road.

Because the technology and the requirements are different, and the philosophy is also different. And we are far from simply saying we’ll take an inboard and put an outboard on it. That will work. That is not the solution, but we have to understand the markets. That takes time.

And that’s why our strategy also states that we want to take a new look at this outboard sector and think long-term.

This means that we have been lucky here with an entry opportunity that we were able to buy something that we have now developed further. You have to have a foot in there to learn.

The type of drive plays a significant role. If we now look at mobility on land, there is no getting around the topic of propulsion.

Diesel, electricity, hydrogen? The first yacht on a pure electric engine or even a hybrid in large-scale production. Is this something you have considered?

As a series manufacturer, I’ll put it this way: we’re still missing the proven technology. In other words, a sustainable, tried-and-tested technology. And from my point of view, the main problem lies around storage. A lot still has to happen there. Weight is an important aspect on a yacht. I find it hard to imagine them being filled up with batteries.

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M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

Same goes for a sailing yacht. One doesn’t need the engine purely to manoeuvre their boat in the harbour or a small bay. They need it also in case of adverse weather conditions, waves or long sails. That’s not feasible with an electric motor, which has neither the power nor the endurance. So from that point of view, “proven technology” around electric engines like that has not been carried out. We care about proven technology (as opposed to experimenting with our customers).

But people on the water usually have so much space that you don’t need spacing systems. What can we still manage on our own?

What we notice is that comfort is playing an increasingly important role for our customers. And in sailing, if you want comfort, if you want space, you really can’t get around the catamaran. The development and demand is constantly increasing. Bavaria does cover the world of catamarans. Any new developments planned in this area? Anything in the pipeline?

Yes, I agree that catamarans have their enthusiasts in the market, of course. The demand is certainly greater in the charter sector, than in the owner sector. Yet, our focus has been on our C lines. Spacewise catamarans will always win, however I do believe at certain point any boat manufacturer has to ask this question: “What do we want to focus on and what are we prepared to ask for it? Some people may want to have a big house, others a more functional one, others want one by the sea. The sailing qualities of a finish line are a decisive advantage if that’s what I want. If I want to drink coffee and lie in the bay, I might book a holiday in a hotel.

Is sustainability a topic that customers are concerned about? Is that even a question? For example, with more sustainable production and sustainable materials?

Yes, yes, I don’t think any shipyard can avoid the aspect of sustainability. That is also daily business here. And whether it’s about energy, materials, resins, processing, everything is put to the test and there is not a year that goes by without a new resin being used that has evolved. And you know, we produce all hulls and decks in Giebelstadt, in Bavaria, and the environmental regulations that we have here in Germany are very strict and we have to comply. That’s where sustainability plays a big part.

Sustainability is only a trendy topic now. Where is the trend on the water going then? In terms of propulsion, the new technologies are not yet ready for the masses and series production.

As you have just said - what technology will come next? More assistance systems? Automatic docking like automatic parking?

Where do you think the trend will lead?

Well, my hope, not only around water but also in other areas, is that the technological possibilities we have today will help us to make life safer and more accessible in general, and above all on the water, without becoming the focus of attention, especially when sailing and driving.

So it has to run in the background, it has to support and make life simply more beautiful and simple. It must also not be so complex. And I think if you compare it to traffic, it’s getting more and more intense.

And then we can talk about whether we have distance systems or not.

Then one last question: Where do you see the greatest development potential at Bavaria?

Well, we have been in the process of setting up on new feet for two years now. And I believe that in a short time, we will have stabilised and redefined our position in Europe and the charter market. That is certainly not very far away. In the medium term, of course, we also have to take on the challenges from the States, North and South, and also the Asian markets, where we simply have to position ourselves.

This should not be decisive for us today, but in the medium-term future, it will certainly play a greater role than it has done for Bavaria today. At the moment, I’d say we do 80 per cent of our business in Europe. But that will shift in the medium term.

Thank you very much for your time and for your patience in answering these questions.

Your sailing holidays, • since 2001.

Choose the biggest charter fleet in South of Italy.

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7 bases all over Italy.

20 years of experience.

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M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

SAFEGUARDING BIODIVERSITY:

THE LIFE DELFI PROJECT The Life DELFI project started from the overarching problem around the conservation of dolphins, mainly the bottlenose dolphins, and for the negative economic consequences on the fishery sector due to interactions of these species with fishing activities.

Today we interview Raffaele Cava, who’s been working on projects related to safeguarding biodiversity, climate change and the recovery of endangered species. Together with the team of Lega Ambiente (a non-for-profit environmental association), he shares some of the outstanding results they’ve been able to achieve in the past year.

ties linked to the pandemic, the partnership has managed to carry out the planned actions. In addition to CNR and Legambiente, the partnership comprises four marine protected areas, two universities (Padua and Siena), a Croatian NGO, Blue World Institute, and the Sicilian association Filicudi Wildlife Conservation. This first year was used to set up the preparatory actions: monitoring the seas of the pilot areas, listening to fishermen, starting the distribution and testing of the pingers. These, the acoustic deterrents, are the basis of the project: the DiDs are mounted on fishing nets and are only activated when the presence of dolphins is detected, and then drive them away with a beep.

Life Delfi is a European project. What are the initiatives at European level that you are most proud of?

As I said, this is still an early stage of Life Delfi, but at European level, thanks to our partner BWI, we have already been able to establish contact with a large number of fishermen willing to test pingers and low environmental impact equipment.

Tell us a little about yourself, what led you to work with the Life Delfi project?

I’ve been working with Legambiente for about two years now, and in particular I’m in charge of the projects’ all-round communication. These projects are linked to themes such as safeguarding biodiversity, climate change, recovering endangered species, etc. One of them is Life Delfi.

One of these is Life Delfi, coordinated by CNR-Irbim and co-financed by the European Commission through the LIFE programme. The main objective is to mitigate interactions at sea between dolphins and professional fishing in the Adriatic, Tyrrhenian Sea, Sicily and Sardinia.

What results have you achieved so far with this project?

Life Delfi has been active for just over a year and despite the difficul14

Based on your experience, do you think that sensitivity to issues of marine species protection has changed over the years?

I believe that awareness of issues such as biodiversity, climate change and, in general, the care of nature and our planet, is growing, especially among young people. This is demonstrated by the great prominence of the Friday for Future movement.

S afe g u ard i ng Biod ive r s ity : T h e Li feD e l f i P roj e c t

What are you doing in particular to increase fishermen’s awareness of coastal dolphin conservation?

In this phase, each partner interviewed dozens of fishermen in their area trying to understand how the phenomenon of fishery-dolphin interactions and, therefore, by-catch, affects their activity. The majority of fishermen indicated that they are facing small or large economic damages as a result of dolphin interactions and would therefore be very happy to work with Life Delphi to mitigate this phenomenon.

In practical terms, what can tourists do to help the Life Delphi project?

Life Delfi is planning to launch an app dedicated to reports of dolphins sighted at sea. Tourists or fishermen will be able to report the sighting of a dolphin in the sea, launch an alarm in case of cetaceans in trouble and then activate the rescue machine. In fact, another prerogative of Life Delfi is the training of rescue teams, teams of volunteers trained and able to intervene in case of emergency. Tourists will be involved in awareness-raising and information activities, and the project also plans alternative economic activities for fishermen such as dolphin watching.

Learn more about the project and how you can help practically here on the Life DELFI website.

What is Lega Ambiente?

We are a non-profit association made up of people who care about environmental protection in all its forms, quality of life, and a fairer, more just and inclusive society.

Through volunteering and direct participation, we promote change for a better future.

We have based our mission on scientific environmentalism, collecting thousands of data on our ecosystem, which form the basis of every project we undertake.

For 40 years we have been fighting against pollution, illegality and injustice for beauty, protection and a better quality of life.

We have won many battles. New challenges await us and we are needed more and more. But to continue to be us, we need YOU. Learn more about what we do on www.legambiente.it

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M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

LIFE ONBOARD MEET HELENE AND GILES

Helene started working with Quarterdeck in 2015 as a host and has been returning every summer since, sailing in Sweden, Croatia, Montenegro, Greece and the British Virgin Islands. Helene is originally from Sweden and also has a career in media production. She is now chasing miles and experience to qualify and get certified as a skipper so she can have the opportunity of working either as a skipper or a host in the future. Helene is known for her positive and vibrant personality and she is a well-loved member of the Quarterdeck community.

Follow Helen’s travels as a host @hedenstrand on Instagram.

“You will never meet the people in your ordinary day that you meet onboard... To make a good host you need to be able to wake up with a big smile.”

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Li fe Onb oard : Me e t He l e n e & Gil e s

Giles started working with Quarterdeck as a skipper in 2019.

He was born in Hong Kong, raised in Bermuda, and now lives in the UK. He started sailing at 6 years old, moving through several dinghy classifications, to inshore keelboat racing, dinghy instructing, and finally yachting. Since attaining his RYA Yachtmaster Offshore he has worked as a skipper in Greece, Croatia, and the British Virgin Islands. Between yachting seasons, he has crossed the Atlantic on two separate occasions, once as skipper and another one as a first mate. Giles has his masters in Marine Geography and is known for his knowledge of the seas, expertise and being a problem solver.

Interested in Giles’s whereabouts? Follow him @giles.lt on Instagram.

“What I love about being a skipper is that you get to be on a different boat every week, you get to sail lots of big boats, lots of nice boats, lots of boats you wouldn’t be able to sail if you just go for a week and rent them.”

If you are thinking about becoming a skipper or host and want to learn more about this world, you can learn more on www.quarterdeck.co or start following them on @quarterdeck.co.

2020 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 490 2019 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 440 2018 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 440 2011 Salona 44 Performance

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el v a r t o t e r i des

• Over 30 years experience • Privately owned & maintained fleet • Based in Lavrion, Kos & Alimos / Greece • Offering quality, innovation, elegance and performance • Customer satisfaction is our # 1 priority

www.wanderlustyachting.com

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M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

OUR ADVICE: HEAD FOR THE SEYCHELLES! Whether the Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama simply had a bad day on that day in 1502 or was busy enough with his original mission, no one can say for sure today. In any case, he paid little attention to the islands he visited in the western Indian Ocean, and they were forgotten again in Europe. This was fortunate for his French colleague Lazare Picault, who 240 years later stumbled upon a paradise that today is one of the most beautiful destinations in the world for sailors.

JEWEL IN THE INDIAN OCEAN The Seychelles. They are huge granite rocks that have been polished over the eons by the relentless waves of the Indian Ocean, gigantic palm trees with their famous “coco de mer” and turquoise bays with lush green takamakas shading the fine white sand beaches. There is hardly a place that deserves the label “paradise” more.

Of the 115 islands in the Seychelles, 41 of the Inner Islands are the oldest granite islands in the world. If this doesn’t really convince you, the additional 74 low-lying reef islands will make you realise that this region is worth a visit.

We want to take you today to visit the busy, well travelled Inner Islands such as Mahé, Praslin and La Digue. We will also take you to the less visited, remote Outer Islands, just beyond the Seychelles. There you will find seclusion and tranquillity as you relax among the reefs.

VACCINATION WORLD CHAMPION In general: The Seychelles stand out worldwide in 2021 due to a rapid Corona vaccination campaign. Along with Israel and the United Arab Emirates, Seychelles has consistently been among the three countries far ahead of the rest of the world in vaccination coverage since January of this year. At the end of the first quarter, 64.2 % of the total population, and thus almost all adults in the country, had received their first vaccination - the highest first vaccination rate in the world. 34.0 % had already had both vaccinations - second place behind Israel.

All travellers need a Travel Health Authorisation. It must be applied for before departure via the official website of the Seychelles government or the mobile app. This requires a passport, passport photo, contact details, flight details, proof of approved accommodation, negative PCR test result and credit or debit card, as well as proof of vaccination or health insurance covering COVID-19 diseases. Processing takes up to six hours. The fee is USD 50. In emergency and urgent cases, an express application will be processed for an express surcharge of 90 USD. A health check will be carried out upon entry.

WHAT ELSE DO WE NEED? 1) A passport valid on the day of entry and exit in Seychelles.

2) Return or onward travel ticket

HOW DO WE GET THERE IN THE CURRENT SITUATION?

3) Proof of accommodation including contact details

Visitors from all countries except South Africa are allowed to travel to the Seychelles and stay quarantine-free. The prerequisite is the presentation of a negative PCR test, which must not be older than 72 hours at the time of departure. (as of April 2021)

The residence permit is initially valid for up to one month and can be extended to up to three months.

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4) Sufficient funds for the duration of the stay.

Payment is made in Roupie Seychelloise (SCR). The exchange of SCR

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! into foreign currency is limited by each exchange office.

Day 2: We set off for Petite or Grande Anse, southeast of La Digue.

And rent a bike to visit this beautiful island that is never overrun by

Otherwise, we get by with credit cards: Master and Visa credit cards are accepted, and only Seychelles rupees are distributed at the (few) ATMs.

tourists. With its white sand paths winding under tall palm trees, palmroofed houses, small copra factories, fine white sand beaches and large polished rocks, La Digue is possibly the most beautiful island in the Seychelles. No cars - only bicycles or carts pulled by oxen.

THE WIND Two opposing trade winds generally dominate the weather: the north-westerly trade winds blow from October to March, with average wind speeds of 8 to 12 knots; and the livelier south-easterly trade wind blows from May to September, with winds between 10 and 20 knots. It brings the cooler and windier conditions that are ideal for sailing.

The calm periods between the trade winds provide relatively warm and wind-free conditions in April and also in October. Conditions for swimming, snorkelling and especially diving are excellent in April/ May and October/November when the water temperature sometimes reaches 29ºC and visibility is often 30 metres or more.

Our 7 day cruising tips: Northwest Winds (November to April) Day 1: We visit the Vallée de Mai in Bay Ste. Anne, a valley protected

by UNESCO. A walk is enchanting, with a path leading you through the huge palm leaves of the “cocos de mer”. Everywhere you look, the foliage seems to go on and on. We spend the night at anchor in Bay Ste Anne.

Day 3: Curieuse -we sail around Marianne and Félicité. Anchoring on the west coast of Grande Soeur for lunch. Unforgettable snorkelling on the Cocos Islands. Cocos Island is made up of large rocks with strange regular stripes carved by the sea, forming a beautiful sight with a great harmony of shapes and colours. The ochre rocks contrast with the bright green leaves of the coconut palms and the white sand of the beaches fringed by turquoise waters. Underwater the view is equally attractive with large corals where thousands of many coloured fish swim in front of narrow breaks and dark caves. We anchor for the night in Baie Laraie, east coast, or again in Baie Sainte Anne if we need water.

Day 4: Saint Pierre / Curieuse - Curieuse, part of the Marine National Park, is home to about a hundred giant tortoises, not to be missed. A 45 minute walk through mangrove and coconut trees, takes us to the other side of the island where there is a beautiful beach and a small but interesting museum. We move on to St. Pierre. A mass of rounded rocks topped by a cluster of tall palm trees swaying gently in the wind: a typical and magnificent Seychelles landscape, photographed countless times and printed a million times in tourist magazines! An excellent place for snorkelling with magnificent underwater scenery.

Return to Baie Laraie for the night.

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M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

Day 5: Aride / Curieuse - Aride Island, which is under the supervision

tall palm trees, palm-roofed houses, small copra factories, fine white

of the Royal Society for Nature Conservation, is a nature reserve.

sand beaches and large polished rocks, La Digue is possibly the most

Narrow paths through the dense vegetation lead to the rock barrier in

beautiful island in the Seychelles. No cars - only bicycles or carts

the north, from where you can observe the whole island. Free of the

pulled by oxen.

cats and rats that have ravaged so many tropical islands around the world, Aride is a haven for a variety of seabirds, unique vegetation and rare land birds. The ten breeding bird species include the rare Roseate Tern and the Red-tailed Tropicbird. The world’s largest colony

Day 5: Sail around Marianne and Félicité. Cocos Island is made up of large rocks with strange regular stripes carved by the sea, forming a

of Slender-billed Noddies is here, with more than 200,000 pairs nest-

beautiful sight with a great harmony of shapes and colours. The ochre

ing. Open Mondays, Wednesdays and Sundays. Anchor again in Baie

rocks contrast with the bright green leaves of the coconut palms and

Laraie for the night.

the white sand of the beaches fringed by turquoise waters. Underwater, the view is equally attractive with large arborescent corals where thousands of many colourful fish swim in front of narrow breaks and

Day 6: Cousin Island - Cousin Island is a nature reserve and bird sanctuary with rare species and some giant tortoises. Less than 800

dark caves. Unforgettable snorkelling. We spend the night back in La Digue.

metres in diameter, the island can be visited from Tuesday to Friday.

A small path leads to the turtle enclosure, from where it leads through dense vegetation to the summit. A great panorama and a good place from which to watch the magnificent flights of tropical birds. During

Day 6: Anchor west of Grande Soeur, the island of two steep and rocky hills connected by a low isthmus. A small coconut plantation,

the southeast wind season, up to 100,000 pairs of black noddies can

where a few huts hide, covers the sandy plateau. The contrast be-

nest in the trees. We find our anchorage for the night again in Baie

tween the bare rocky part and the undergrowth of the coconut grove

Sainte Anne.

is beautiful. Great snorkelling on the west coast where we can see sea turtles. Beautiful beaches on the east coast. Open from Monday to Friday. We spend the night in Baie Sainte Anne.

Day 7: Bay Sainte Anne - Check out at the base.

Day 7: Bay Sainte Anne - Check out at the base.

Our 7 day cruising tips: Southeast Winds (May to October)

CONCLUSION

Day 1: We visit the Vallée de Mai in Bay Ste. Anne, a valley protected

by UNESCO. A walk in the valley is enchanting, with a path leading you through the huge palm leaves of the cocos de mer. Everywhere you look, the foliage seems to go on and on.We eventually tear ourselves away and spend the night at anchor in Bay Ste Anne.

The Seychelles easily made it onto our to-sail list. If only because of the impressive nature. No wonder, the island nation in the Indian Ocean is the first in the world to include nature conservation in its constitution. Almost 60 percent of the land areas are specially protected. And they are waiting to be discovered by you.

Day 2: Curieuse -We sail to the island of St Pierre, a mass of rounded rocks topped by a cluster of tall palm trees swaying gently in the wind: a typical and magnificent Seychelles landscape, photographed countless times and printed a million times in tourist magazines! An excellent place for snorkelling with magnificent underwater scenery.

Continue to Curieuse and stop at Anse San José, part of the Curieuse Marine National Park. A 45 minute walk, into mangroves and coconut trees, takes us to the other side of the island where hundreds of giant tortoises are found.

Day 3: Cousin Island is a nature reserve and bird sanctuary with rare species and some giant tortoises. Less than 800 metres in diameter, the island can be visited from Tuesday to Friday. A small path leads to the turtle enclosure, from where it leads through dense vegetation to the summit. The panoramic view is incredible and becomes even more impressive when tropical birds fly by.

Day 4: Anchor in Petite or Grande Anse, southeast of La Digue.

Renting a bike proves ideal for visiting this beautiful island, which is never overrun by tourists. With its white sand paths winding under

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Curious about the Seychelles? Learn more about where to sail in the Seychelles

B ooz e y Re por t: Ou r Top 5 Be e rs

BOOZEY REPORT OUR TOP 5 BEERS Indispensable, irreplaceable and always available in sufficient quantities and well chilled - on what feels like 80% of all sailing trips, the availability of the products of local brewing plays a role that should not be underestimated. When bunkering in the supermarket, the crew member responsible for logistics is then spoilt for choice to satisfy the different and demanding tastes of the crew members. Between all the colourful cans and bottles, what should you buy in each country? We’ve conducted a small very scientific (LOL) - survey among our crew (which we’ve decided, with a leap of faith, to consider as statistically representative), and came to the following conclusions as to which is ‘The’ favourite brand in the most popular sailing destinations in the Med:

GREECE

Clearly, the number 1 is Mythos - the likeable and mythical beer with the significant logo that, according to rumours, has inspired entire cruises to name it in punto. It’s hard to imagine the Greek beer pantheon without it since the 70s. No wonder, since it comes from the Greek offshoot of the German Henninger Group.

ITALY

Mamma mia, here the choice gets more complicated and making a choice couldn’t be more challenging: in the end, however, ‘Mr Moretti’ comes as the best, closely followed

by Mr Peroni, second place. Out of competition but also not unpopular: the Sardinian Ichnusa.

SPAIN

Here it’s a neck-and-neck race in our opinion poll: San Miguel for some, the Catalan Estrella Damm from Barcelona for others. Or maybe you’d instead go for Rioja. Again keep us posted. You’ve got to simply try for yourself, don’t you?

FRANCE

No joke: when it comes to French beers, our team puts Southern French rosé first. Our colleagues must have had one in their tea. Or one or two too many Kronenbourg.

Otherwise, Heineken - you can find it everywhere, and it’s always good. Cheers!

CROATIA

Well, whoever says beer in Croatia usually says Karlovačko.

Beer in Croatia is red and white, according to the unanimous opinion of our respondents. Or yellow, then it is called Ozujsko.

And then there is the secret tip of the real Croatian in our crew who picked Zmajsko (perhaps worth the off-the-beaten-road sip! Let us know...)

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MAGISTER M a g iste r Nav NAVIS i s Issue AUSGABE No 2 NO.2

SAVING MARINE LIFE IN THE ADRIATIC

The Blue World Institute of Marine Research and Conservation (the BWI) works to protect the Adriatic Sea marine environment. To that end, the BWI operates three programmes – research, education, and conservation. The research focuses mainly on large marine vertebrates (dolphins, whales, sea turtles, sharks and species like the giant devil rays or the monk seal), informing our education activities and conservation projects. They collaborate with the local communities based on the Adriatic coast and islands, encouraging sustainable development.

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S avi ng M ar i ne Li fe i n t h e Ad ri at ic

Their efforts also extend to the national and international, often regional levels, advancing sustainable marine management and environmental sustainability in the Mediterranean Basin. The Educational programme is predominantly carried out in the Lošinj Marine Education Centre (LMEC) in Veli Lošinj. The LMEC provides space for housing a permanent exhibition for general public awareness-raising and specialist facilities for structured educational programmes focused on various interest groups. The BWI has developed programmes for school groups that consist of multiple lectures and workshops, and one of the main topics that we are dealing with is the problem of marine litter. Over the last fifteen years, the BWI has been a partner to eighteen EU funded projects from nine programmes, including European Maritime and Fisheries Fund, Interreg Italy-Croatia, LIFE, Erasmus Plus, Horizon2020, Interreg Instrument for Pre-Accession Assistance for Croatia, Interreg Instrument for Pre-Accession Assistance for Cross-Border Cooperation, PHARE and CARDS. fund a non-governmental organisation, the Blue World Institute, and continue monitoring the same population. Therefore, with 34 years of research in the row, the Adriatic Dolphin Project is the most extended ongoing study of one bottlenose dolphin population in the wild in the whole Mediterranean and one of the world longest. Since I’m an environmental education specialist, education program development has always been the focus of my role at BWI role.

What results have you achieved so far with your organisation?

From being a small NGO leaning on volunteer work and donations to study bottlenose dolphins local population, we became a recognised and relevant regional organisation that carries our three main programs – Scientific Research, Education and Conservation and employs 23 professionals. In these 21 years, we participated in 18 EU funded projects working with numerous international partner organisations, mainly from the Mediterranean and worldwide. In 2003 we opened Lošinj Marine Education Centre in Veli Lošinj that hosted over 100.000 visitors to promote marine conservation and sustainable tourism. We developed dozens of education programs for different age and interest groups. Also, BWI was the main initiator and promoter of establishing the Natura 2000 area in the Cres-Lošinj Archipelago.

We’ve met Jelena Basta, President at the Blue World Institute of Marine Research and Conservation and environmental education specialist.

Recently she’s been coordinating projects related to marine litter issues, organizing cleanups, public awareness events and education programmes on this topic.

So Jelena, can you tell us a little about yourself. What brought you to work with the Blue World Institute of Marine Research and Conservation?

As a biologist born and bred on the island of Lošinj, I was involved in the Blue World Institute of Marine Research and Conservation (BWI) activities from the very beginning. Together with a group of researchers and enthusiasts back in 1999, we decided to continue our work on the Adriatic Dolphin Project studying the local population of bottlenose dolphins, initially started by our Italian colleagues in 1987 on the Cres-Lošinj Archipelago. After they finished their study, we decided to

The Blue World Institute of Marine Research and Conservation collaborates with the local communities. In what way have you engaged with them?

From the very beginning, BWI is cooperating closely with the City of Mali Lošinj as the local administrative unit in the main study area and the local community. The City was our leading partner in many projects, including opening the education centre to promote our activities as one of the pillars for sustainable tourism development on the island. Since we opened two other field stations in Murter, North Dal-

M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

matia and at the island of Vis in Central Dalmatia, we are continuously developing joint local projects with their local communities. In the BWI, we strongly believe in the importance of the community-led local development concept as one of the premises for the conservation and management of the marine environment. Additionally, we also think that the local inhabitants are the best promotors of sound sustainable practices at the sea. Cooperation and exchange of knowledge with fishermen, tourist boats and recreational boat owners are essential to us.

Your organisation has also collaborated internationally to advance environmental sustainability in the Mediterranean Sea. What sort of collaborations are you most proud of?

Being an NGO, we are very proud of being recognised among the leading scientific institutions for marine research in the region as one of the most competent organisations in large marine vertebrates research in the Adriatic Sea. As such, currently, we participate in five big international scientific research projects. That’s important because marine conservation doesn’t recognise the borders, the same as the species we study. We share the Adriatic Sea with several countries; however, it is an essential part of the Mediterranean; thus, we share the same marine conservation challenges. Collaboration is crucial for all of us.

Based on your experience, do you think that awareness of marine species protection issues has changed over the years?

As someone with over 20 years of experience in working on environmental education, I can say that awareness of marine species protection and marine conservation issues, in general, has significantly increased. There are two reasons for that. First is increased education activities through various public awareness actions such as campaigns, events and media. The other reason is perhaps more

Science program, a great help to our field research activities. Expanding a network of leisure and recreational boat users in the Adriatic Sea is particularly important to enhance observation efforts on the sea. Through our Citizen Science apps, we’ve received hundreds of information on the locations where some particular species where spotted, such as dolphins, whales, sea turtles. We also receive notifications on some emergencies where instant reactions where needed, which helped us act. If you want to join this program, you can report your sighting on the sea at https://www.blue-world.org/get-involved/ citizen-science/report-a-sighting/ Additionally, we would like to use this opportunity to share sailors’ simple rules when encountering dolphins and other marine mammals at sea – slow down, keep the distance of min 50 m, don’t try to chase them or cross their way. Just be a quiet and patient observer, and in many cases, they will show their appreciation by approaching your boat themselves.

negative: it is the fact that some threats to the marine environment became so evident and alarming that we cannot ignore them any more.

The best example of it is the problem of marine litter. We can only step up our efforts in finding innovative solutions for some of these threats and hope that it is not too late.

In a nutshell, what can the sailor visiting the Med do in practical terms to help the Blue World Institute of Marine Research and Conservation?

One of the programs that we are constantly developing is the Citizen 24

Are things looking up for the future? Can we feel confident we can over time swim in cleaner seas and enjoy the sightings of more and more marine species?

We have to stay optimists and believe that the conservation actions and efforts will eventually pay off. The best way to reach this goal is through education on all levels!

You can support the Blue World Research activities by donating to Blue World Institute through the Adopt a dolphin program at www.adopt-a-dolphin.org or you can start following them on Instagram @blueworldinstitute or Facebook blueworldinstitute

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THE BEST SUNGLASSES FOR SAILING THE SEAS?

GO FOR POLAR! Do not neglect your eyes and you’ll be rewarded with the best views in the world If there is one thing I hate it is to be in the full glory of nature and not able to properly see it. Well that’s what sunglasses are meant for, not (only) to look cool while you’re at the helm.

The first thing you should care for in a pair of sunglasses are, of course, the lenses.

That’s the main ingredient when it comes to clarity and ease of vision. And when it comes to choosing the best lenses for your next sailing trip you should definitely, definitely, go for polarised lenses! I know they generally come at a higher price, but trust me, it’s worth it.

If you’ve ever been on a beach looking at the sea, you already know how hard the sun, bouncing on the surface of the waves, can hit your eyes. That’s not good. And that’s precisely why I’m telling you to go polar.

Let me get a bit technical, a polarisation filter is made of vertical micro-mesh structures whose job is to eliminate the horizontally oscillating element of light which is responsible for a great deal of glare when sunlight shines on wet or shiny surfaces. Now, in plainer terms, that means that your vision becomes clearer, with sharper contours, and even in bright sunlight your eyes will be noticeably more relaxed and less fatigued.

You’ll be able to enjoy the most beautiful sunny days, for as long as you wish, in the comfort of your eye protection and with a much, much better view.

Now there are many options when it comes to choosing sunglasses, and as long as you go for polarised lenses, you’ll do fine. But let me recommend one particular brand that, I’m sure, you’ll find quite interesting: Radius Radius is an Italian startup that designs, produces and sells eyewear of an excellent quality at reasonable prices.

This summer Radius has launched, in a limited edition, a new collection made from Econyl, a special kind of plastic derived entirely from recycled fishing nets, pieces of fabric, old carpets and industrial waste, giving a new life and purpose to all the stuff that would otherwise go in our landfills or, worse, in our beloved seas!

What’s more, Radius has taken at heart it’s brand’s mission to produce the most eco-friendly pair of sunglasses in the world, and has made the effort to estimate the quantity of CO2 produced with a pair of sunglasses, to be able to entirely offset it. Actually they’ve gone even further, and not only they offset all the CO2 produced with the production of this new collection, and that’s counting all the parts that make the eyewear, lenses, transportation, packaging, etc, but they contributed to a reforestation project called Vilamatsa Mangrove Site, planting enough mangrove trees to compensate CO2 emissions more than six times over. Every mangrove tree, planted on the Western coast of Madagascar, has the capacity to absorb up to 12.3Kg of CO2, while Radius has estimated that one pair of sunglasses of this new collection only produces 2Kg of CO2.

It goes without saying that all pairs of sunglasses of this special collection come with polarised lenses, produced for Radius by Carl Zeiss Vision. Need I say more? Affordable, actually good for our environment and our seas, and with lenses of an impeccable quality: I believe they truly are the best choice for your eyewear in 2021.

Learn more about Radius latest collection on seeradius.com or start following them on Instagram @seeradius 25

M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

A SPECIAL FOODEY TREAT IN THE HEART OF TUSCAN ELBA As you sail along the north-east part of Elba, just off the Tuscan coast, make sure you drop your anchor in this special place, for a small bite or a full Italian menu. Freshly caught fish + super views of sunsets + ideal proximity to the sea. We meet Mario, owner and chef of Aquasalata (‘Salty water’ in Italian), a restaurant where the solid Tuscan culinary tradition meets creative innovation.

Hello Mario, tell us a little bit about you? How do your passion for the sea and for cooking come together?

Each of us is destined to follow our own path, the one we were born for, the one that gives added value to our existence. My path has not been easy from the start (as it often happens), tortuous at times impervious, different from the conventional life choices, one may say. I travelled around the world, cooking in many restaurants as a cook and then as a chef, before realising that the Island of Elba, in the small bay of Nisporto, would set my path, would be ‘The place’ for me to start my project.

A mesmerizing place...I was immediately captivated by the harmony of the Mediterranean vegetation and that addictive scent of salt. I was able to combine my culinary knowledge, my appreciation for the quality of my raw ingredients, flavours and mix it up with technique, attention to detail and innovation.

One year after the restaurant opened, I am very satisfied with the objectives achieved thanks to the young, competent and close-knit staff I have met during my work experience. We don’t want to set ourselves any limits because we are aware that we can always do better.

What sort of cuisine do visitors find here?

An innovative cuisine. We love to revisit Italian traditional dishes in a modern contemporary way.

What’s the link between the restaurant and the sea?

In addition to a breathtaking view of the bay of Nisporto, the waves hit the cliff where our terrace is located, allowing you to sit at the table at a distance of only a few metres from the sea itself. It’s as if you were on a boat.

How do you get there?

Our restaurant is located right by Nisporto Beach, in the north-eastern part of Elba.

Our address is: Strada per Nisporto, 95, Rio Nell’elba, Tuscany Tel: 0565 963027 Interested in having a virtual bite to get properly convinced?

Check Aquasalata’s Instagram page @aquasalata_isoladelba

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A s pe ci al foode y tre at i n th e h e ar t of Tu s c a n E l b a

Crustaceo with dipping sauce and mustard citronette Ingredients

- 1 Lobster - 3 Mazzara red prawns - 3 Sicilian scampi - 200g Red potatoes - 3 Carrots - 1 Fresh spring onion

- 2 White onions - 3 Celery sticks - 4 Cherry tomatoes - 1 Tbsp old mustard - 2 Tbsp of apple vinegar - 4 Basil leaves

- Borage leaves - 3 Leaves of curly endive - White wine to taste - Salt - Evo oil to taste - White pepper to taste

Preparation

Preparing the mashed potatoes with oil Wash the potatoes, put them in a pot of salted water and cook them for about 35 minutes.

Peel them, mash them and whip them with the olive oil in a mixer.

Preparing the mustard citronette Using a hand blender, blend the olive oil with the mustard, apple vinegar, a blanched shrimp tail, salt and pepper until you get a creamy sauce.

Preparing the crustaceans Clean the shells and guts from the crustaceans. Dip the celery, carrots, onions and white wine in a pot of salted water and cook until an aromatic broth is obtained. Now dip the shellfish in the broth for about one minute and then drain.

Preparing the dipping sauce (pinzimonio) Wash and peel the vegetables, slice them into julienne strips, add the basil and cherry tomatoes and dress with citronette.

Final touches Using a pastry bag, spread the mashed potatoes in oil on a rectangular plate. Place the crustaceans vertically on the bed of potatoes and with a spoon add the crunchy vegetables. Finish it all off with borage sprouts and curly endive leaves.

MAGISTER M a g iste r Nav NAVIS i s Issue AUSGABE No 2 NO.2

THE PERFECT FAMILY SAIL With that taste of Greek-ness all around My culinary journey started in 2013, and I couldn’t be more grateful to work in this industry.

It’s lovely when you can combine two of your favourite passions: travelling and cooking. I have visited over 50 Greek islands, and each one has left me more mesmerized and has inspired me to learn more about Greece. Travelling has nurtured my creativity in cooking.

One of the most beautiful things about sailing is the chance to meet new amazing people from all over the world. Today I’d love to share with you a memorable trip I went on sailing from the Athens Marina of Alimos to the mesmerizing Saronic Gulf, with a couple and their two children. The calm waters and the warm weather of the Gulf - plus the perfect island-hopping - makes this itinerary simply ideal for families.

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T h e Pe r fe ct Family S ail : With a Tas te of Gre e k-Ne s s All A ro u n d

How to make the most delicious ouzo in no time: Boil your shrimps and sieve once cooked, then proceed cooking your pasta in the same water. Sautée your shrimps in a pan until they get nice and coloured and quench with ouzo. When all the extra water evaporates, add your onions, garlic, tomato, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Once everything is cooked, stir your shrimps and pasta together. The result is a unique Greek dish famous all over the world. ) For all the ingredients and fresh shrimps, I recommend you buy in Athens; otherwise, if you are lucky, you can find early morning in Poros’ fish market.

Tip of the day! Τasting one of the best Organic Extra Virgin Olive Oil in Greece! Ask for Theseus EVOO and Thanos, who is the founder of the company. He is a Superhost and the one that could guide you to explore the Mythical Groves of King Theseus in Troezen by touring around: such a unique life experience!

Day 3: Poros - Spetses

Day 1: Alimos Marine - Perdika (Aegina)

Welcome on board! We usually welcome our guests with local special meze, fresh fruits and refreshments. Meze, by the way, literally means ‘a bite of something’ and is used to describe small plates of savoury snacks that are usually served to eat alongside a drink.

After the captain and host’s briefing, let’s embark on our sailing journey! Our first stop is Perdika in Aegina island (3 hours 30’).

Our day ends with a relaxing walk in town and dining at one of the best restaurants in Aegina, Taverna Kavouropetra, with daily fresh fish dishes.

Leave from Poros and head to Spetses (4 hours 30’) On our way to the harbour, we anchor our boat for a swim to explore the Cave of Bekirisand. You can reach it only by boat. It has a tiny, sandy beach inside and formations of stalactites and stalagmites. An absolute beauty! For lunchtime, after a day of exploration, we deserve our Greek treat: Gemista with stuffed Vegetables (tomatoes, courgettes, onions, peppers) with rice, herbs and feta cheese on top. I recommend you buy your fresh veggies and traditional cheese from the local stores in Poros. This recipe is Greek, healthy and yummy. You should most certainly try it.

Tip of the day!

The most interesting sightseeing in Spetses is the Museum of Bouboulina, which is actually the home of the Greek Revolution’s legendary heroine originating from Spetses.

Tip of the day!

Aegina island is famous for the pistachios and The temple of Aphaia What should you order here?

Lamb or goat meat with pistachio crust.

Day 2: Aegina - Poros

Leave from Aegina and head to Poros town (2 hours) Poros Town is the capital and main harbour of the island of Poros. It is located in the southern part of the island, covering the tiny, volcanic Sferia with a long shoreline that extends for two kilometres and is full of restaurants, bars and cafes. Poros town is a beautiful village with very hospitable residents and has a breath-taking view of sunsets. Our first stop for a swim is Love’s bay. It is an adorable and charming bay, a little paradise on earth with fine white pebbles and sand and amazing crystalline waters.

Lunchtime!

Pasta with shrimps quenched with ouzo 29

M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

Day 4: Spetses - Kyparissi Village (Peloponnese)

Leave from Spetses and head to Kyparissi village in Peloponnese (3 hours 30’) Kyparissi is one of the most beautiful villages in Greece. It is the favourite destination of George Bush, Prince Charles and may have been the last place Princess Diana visited before her ill-fated trip to Paris.

A small quiet village that is really difficult to access and thus does not have many visitors.

Dinner at one of my favourite places to have a perfect meal, Mourayo awarded Restaurant in Spetses.Abendessen an einem meiner Lieblingsorte für ein perfektes Essen, dem preisgekrönten Restaurant Mourayo in Spetses.

For lunchtime, we make pastitsio, a kind of Greek Lasagna with bechamel sauce.

Followed by dinner on board under the stars. A light meal - after the filling lunch. We opt for a healthy green salad with rockets, cherry and balsamic sauce, accompanied by some bruschetta with tomato & basil and a sweet dessert choco salami called “Kormos”.

Tip of the day!

Enjoy the peaceful place, feel the hospitality of locals, and walk through the village’s tiny paths.

Day 6: Agioi Anargyroi (Spetses) - Hydra

Hydra’s natural beauty and has a fascinating history. No cars are allowed on the island, and the primary mean of transportation here are mules and donkeys, as well as water taxis. Which makes this a tranquil and relaxing spot to anchor and go for a stroll.

You will find all the ingredients for your meals in the local stores here.

There aren’t many, but those you’ll find will guarantee a suite of local Greek taste and flavours. Time for Moussaka! This dish is a legend!

Creamy, juicy and absolutely delicious. Greek moussaka is one of Greece’s most popular dishes, served in almost every tavern and prepared in every household on special occasions and big family meals and for a good reason! Combine it with a Dakos Creten salad, the perfect combination.

Tip of the day!

For your perfect dinner with a sunset view, I highly recommend the Sunset Restaurant. I promise you will absolutely love it!

And if you’re into cocktails, the best of the best is Hydronetta.

From here, the views are breathtaking.

P.S. Make sure you try the Martini Mango!

Day 5: Kyparissi - Agioi Anargyroi (Spetses)

Agioi Anargyroi is a gorgeous organized beach located in the southwestern part of Spetses. A long, thin stretch of golden sand and clear water and the graceful trees and rocks next to it make this place one of the most beautiful beaches and thus, it is a common destination for tourists in Greece.

I will prepare some fresh catch of the day in the oven with grilled veggies - easy to make and absolutely delicious for lunchtime.

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T h e Pe r fe ct Family S ail : With a Tas te of Gre e k-Ne s s All A ro u n d

Day 7: Hydra - Aponisos (Agistri) Leave from Hydra and head to Agistri.

It is a superb final destination of your itinerary before returning to Athens because there is an incredible beach called Aponisos with crystal clear waters surrounded by nature. It is a quiet place in which you may see peacocks and even some deers!

The unique combination of colours reminds you of exotic places, offering you a unique relaxation and calmness. The beach is located in a marvellous location, in the southwest part of Agistri.

One and only local restaurant- tavern located there may offer you exquisite seafood snacks with ouzo, right next to the breaking waves.

There is an organized beach with deck chairs and sea sports for activities.

Fancy taking a virtual tour of Anastasia’s sailing journey? Then check her out on her Instagram account @__anastasia__dm

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M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

Sailing to Flavoursome Greek Groves

Between history and modernity in Poros grows a mythical olive oil

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Probably the most accessible sailing destination to reach from Athens, the islands in the Saronic Gulf are the ideal destination for one-week trips from Athens. Blessed by the relatively mild winds compared to other sailing Greek destinations and closer to the mainland, the Saronic Gulf is a sought-after sailing destination for those in the mood for a more relaxing, less strenuous (sailing-wise) holiday in Greece. Starting your journey from Alimos Marina, you can head south-west and visit the islands of Aigina, Spetses, Hydra and Poros. It is in Troezen, right across Poros Island, about 30 nautical miles from Athens Alimos, that we strike a flavoursome connection with what is possibly one of the most ancient aromatic ingredients from these sun-blessed Greek islands: of course, we are talking of the extra virgin olive oil that so gracefully clours most Greek cuisine, from starters to desserts (wait a minute, what did we just say? yes, you heard us right - we shall find out soon enough).

And what a wonderful way to guide us in this exploration if not with an olive oil connoisseur who lives and breathes ‘Greek-ness’ all round.

Meet Thanos, owner of the extra virgin olive oil who takes us on a journey through time, from mythology, history all the way to modern times of why olive oil is an absolutely vital element in the life of a Greek and what makes this olive oil just so special.

So Thanos, tell us a little about yourself, where you are from, where do you currently live?

My name is Thanos Katsigkras, I am 25 years old and I come from the diamond-beauty island of Saronic Gulf, Poros Island. I have graduated from the University of Agricultural Sciences of Thessaly (Volos). I have participated in a number of seminars on olives and olive oil, both on the cultivation/production stage, the process stage, the bottling stage and the marketing business plan stage. However, the time after university was not meant to be left unexploited. So, I attended weekly courses at the National Kapodistrian University of Athens on marketing agricultural products and I am the founder and producer of the Extra Virgin Olive Oil Theseus.

What’s the story behind the name Theseus Evoo?

Well, the story of Theseus comes from the mythological godly-human creature Theseus. His human mortal side, from his mother Aethra, gives him the ability to understand and empathise with humans.

His father’s divine side, Neptune, pushes him to make use of his supernatural skills for the wellbeing of mankind.

Theseus was a great fan of Hercules. When he became an adult, Aethra showed him the stone that his mortal father Aegeus (King of Athens) had left his sword and his sandals. He lifted the stone with his strong hands, grabbed the gifts of his father and began the way to Athens and his father, Aegeus.

Theseus is considered the greatest Mythical Hero of Athens. He was endowed with power, bravery and great intelligence, which had always been put at the service of the people, which resulted in freedom for the Athenians. He was a hero of his times: he rebuilt cities, crafted laws, instituted sacred sporting games and organized the first social system. His heritages lies also here, on this island where olive groves have been flourishing since ancient times.

M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

How did you get involved in the Olive Oil business?

The idea of growing olives and producing extra virgin olive oil started growing in me about three years ago when I was still a student. The actual business, however, shaped up properly shortly before the pandemic, so we’re a start-up still but we’re growing quickly and learning every day something new about the business and about the art of olive oil making.

The unique mythical, ancient and modern history of Troezen, the important supplies I grabbed by the University of Agricultural Sciences and the experience I gained from my family through years of knowledge in the cultivation of olive trees, in combination with the pure Extra Virgin Olive Oil produced by our estates, was the reason to incarnate the idea in the bottle.

So what makes this olive oil so special?

The extra virgin olive oil comes in different varieties and probably one of the reasons why it’s so special, it can really satisfy different palates.

Our Manaki variety is more buttered and mild and it is enriched with a strong fruity flavour, perfect for cooking and dressing. Our Koroneiki variety tends to have a bittersweet taste, spicier than our Manaki variety can perfectly accompany savoury dishes. Needless saying, it’s a constant learning experience: to reach the level we’re at now takes time, continuous effort, patience, persistence and well, also a scientific approach to the cultivation of olive groves.

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What is your absolute favourite way of tasting your olive oil?

The truth is that I am a food lover! So, I am not able to choose one.

But, if I had to, I would say that Cretan Takos is my favourite way of tasting extra virgin olive oil as it is on its raw state in combination with greek grated Feta, a bit of thyme and pure tomato sauce on a big crunchy Rusk.

What would you say to sailors anchoring by Poros?

Saronic is the closest gulf to Athens and is perfect for island-hopping and sailing through Aegina, Agistri, Poros, Hydra and Spetses. I totally recommend Poros Island as a stop on your sailing tour. Our island has the widest port of all Saronic Gulf’s Islands and it’s the greenest island of all.

How does one reach your olive groves?

I would love to meet any sailors coming our way and show them what original Greek philoxenia means by providing them with a tour on Theseus Olive Groves and giving them the opportunity to feel our lands wonderful flavours. Poros connects to Peloponnese through a sea passage (Poros means Passage in Greek) of about 400m, where daily small boats or ferry boats transport people and vehicles. It is like a Little Venice. Theseus Olive Groves is located in the historic land of Troezen (Galatas, Peloponnese). So, almost every day we cross this sea passage to reach our olive groves and back again at the end of the day.

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M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

An ‘olivey’ itinerary for all sailors

Tip 1: Anchor by Galatas and enjoy the view of Poros port/town Tipp 2: When going across Poros to Galatas do not lose the click on the back of the small boat of Poros Town, it’s amazing, like a painting!

Tipp 3: When you arrive in Galatas, don’t lose the chance to even have a look at La Frianderie Noisette. Get coffee, tea, brunch etc and you are ready to continue the tour!

Theseus Olive Groves are about 15 minutes by renting a minivan/ minibus or a car or by taxi. All the way to Troezen, a visitor can easily notice that all around there are olive and citrus groves.

Next to Troezen, there are Theseus Olive Groves and the famous Stone of Theseus, the one that he lifted when he grew up and from where he grabbed the sandals and the sword his father had left him. Minivan/minibus/car/taxi stops at this point and trekking begin all the way up to Devil’s Bridge. After the Stone, there is the Castle of Theseus, where the myth says he grew up. Keeping on trekking, we meet the Devil’s Footprint on a rock and as the myth says, Devil wanted to cross one mountain to the other. So, he built a bridge and crossed them easily, that’s the famous Devil’s Bridge, over a wonderful oasis with a small lake, which we will be able to visit, swim and feel like Tarzan for a while, following the right path. Incredible Experience!

Going all the way back to the minivan/car/taxi, we will continue our tour to our business’s hill viewpoint, from where Theseus Olive Groves are right in front of you. In these settings, our friend and chef Anastasia will prepare a special meal with our extra virgin olive oil. If you sail to Poros at the end of September / October, you will have the chance to experience the harvesting of olive trees and following the path to the olive mill all the way to bottling!

Contact details and how to get to Theseus Olive Groves by boat If you’re interested to learn more you can contact Thanos via email theseusevoo@gmail.com or WhatsApp +306998463015 or you can start getting in the mood by following them on Instagram @Theseusevoo

Cretan Dakos by chef Anastasia

Make a fresh and colorful Greek salad in no time. It’s great with grilled meats or on its own as a veggie main.

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Ingredients 2-3 large vine tomatoes

½ red onion, thinly sliced 8-10 Greek olives 1 tsp dried oregano 80g feta cheese, cut into chunks 4 tsp THESEUS Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Preparation

Place 2-3 large vine tomatoes, cut into wedges, ½ thinly sliced red onion, 8-10 Greek olives, 1 tsp dried oregano, 80 g feta cheese chunks and 4 tbsp THESEUS extra virgin olive oil in a large bowl. Lightly season, then serve with crusty bread to mop up all of the juices.

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WE LCO M E TO T H E WO R L D O F YAC H T I N G

47 YA C H T S | 3 D E S T I N AT I O N S

H E R M E SYAC H T I N G .CO M 37

M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

TOP 10 COASTAL CROATIAN RESTAURANTS Tavern Go-Ro The story of this tavern began over 35 years ago when Goran Rogulj made an ingenious old barbecue tradition socially acceptable in a secluded bay at the end of the Telašćica Nature Park called the peka. There is almost nothing that Goran has not already prepared in a peka. Most popular, however, are the varieties with veal and squid, which are gently grilled and steamed in their juice along with vegetables.

Goran, who easily ran the entire restaurant in the style of an entertainer, died in 2016. His son, Jakov, took over management and is successfully continuing the peka tradition of the tavern, which has advanced to become a top international address, and also delights his guests with Dalmatian specialties such as pašticada, a braised beef or lamb that is cooked for hours and, thus, is available in limited quantities.

Due to the long cooking time, we recommend ordering in advance!

Dugi Otok, Telašćica, Magrovica Bay N43°55‘39‘‘, E15°08‘19‘‘ Phone: +385-98-1388136

Konoba Statival The restaurant opened by David Špralja in 2011 on the rather barren, rugged north side of the island is one of the last insider tips in the Kornati National Park. In the wild and romantic bay there are two mooring places, three buoys and discounted national park tickets. David is an innkeeper, fisherman and sought-after diving instructor, and the house speciality is octopus. It is served grilled, as a peka or carpaccio. The black sepia risotto and the sepia spaghetti also taste sensational. The meat of the sheep grazing peacefully in the bay is prepared under the peka hood. A reservation is required, preferably via WhatsApp message, as the radio signal in the bay is relatively poor.

Kornat, Statival N43°51‘46‘‘, E15°15‘06‘‘ Phone: +385-91-5060102

Konoba Ringo Jure Knezović, who speaks perfect German, has lovingly furnished his tavern with all sorts of original pieces. He only assigns a berth after telephone notification and the promise to respect the sacred tranquillity of this bay.

Only fish and seafood are served, both of which Jure knows how to prepare flawlessly. And all without garlic which Jure describes as the “prison of aroma”, which falsifies the purity of the taste. If you want, you can order a menu with countless courses; the absolute highlight is the masterfully fried tuna.

Hvar, Pribinja N43°11’28’’, E16°26’03’’ Phone: +385-91-5103686

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Top 1 0 C oas tal C roati an Re s t au ra nt s

Konoba Soleta You can’t tell by looking at it, but Šipnate Bay, where the sun seems to take an exceptionally long time to set, was the scene of a drama in August 2007.

Twelve firefighters lost their lives in what was supposed to be a routine operation; large stone crosses, which can be reached via a narrow path, still remind us of this tragedy today.

In 2013, the success story of the young couple Snježan and Ivana Rameša began, whose family has been raising sheep here for a hundred years.

Great importance is attached to an inviting ambience and lovingly designed decoration. Hospitality with the appropriate attention is written in capital letters! The nicely designed menu is convincing with its freshness and quality because everything from lamb to fish to olive oil grows more or less around the house here. Gourmet tip: scampi buzzara à la Ivana!

Buoys and mooring places are available. Discounted National Park day tickets are also available here!

Kornat, Šipnate Bay N43°51‘00‘‘, E15°14‘48‘‘ 39

Phone: +385-95-1978102

Konoba Senko Karuza The landlord, Senko Karuza, is described by some as a problematic philosopher who rules over his little dream bay and only cooks when he feels like it. My tip is to get in touch with him in good time, reserve a buoy – and you will end up in another world. Senko turns out to be quite approachable and friendly; maybe he staged his reputation himself. His stone house is very cosy, his cooking style is a mixture of dedication and adventure, and the result is simply terrific. For more than 30 years, the idiosyncratic “gastrosoph” has been trying to get his guests excited about slow food and home-grown wines - you should make enough time for this.

Vis, Mala Travna N43°01’13’’, E16°10’47’’ Phone: +385-99-3525803

Restaurant Augusta Insula Lučo Jurica is a gifted dreamer with a thousand ideas and the obsession to implement them. He paid tribute to the island’s ancestors and designed the restaurant as a pirate’s nest with a cannon and all the paraphernalia. Today, the rich and famous dock here, and you feel like a Hollywood star in this setting with a whirlpool, an Asian massage team, and a cleaning crew who quickly brings the boat into shape – if you can get one of the berths. Just which blockbuster gave Lučo the inspiration for the dynamic, lovely service team remains his secret. A menu of the day, which is just as spectacular as the entire location, is served on several terraces or board. Great cinema is offered here – if you like it that way!

Lastovo, Zaklopatica N42°46’28’’, E16°52’39’’ Phone: +385-98-571884

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M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

Konoba Mrčara The friendly jack-of-all-trades, Krešo Glavica, who uses the former military island as a location for survival camps on the off-season, has creatively decorated his small, rustic tavern with floating debris and offers to change menus, vegetarian dishes and peka. Two boats can moor on the side of the old military pier, and there are two new mooring places at the top and three buoys. Today, this little paradise, which can only accommodate a manageable number of guests, is no longer an insider tip, and a reservation is required.

Mrčara (Archipelago of Lastovo) N42°46‘16‘‘, E16°47‘34‘‘ Phone: +385-99-5485720

Konoba Marijina Even after more than 30 years in the business, the Belins are constantly striving to consolidate the excellent reputation of the family business. Last winter, the terrace was weatherproofed, and a new garden was created where all kinds of vegetables and herbs thrive. In the four legendary clay ovens, fish, lobster, wild boar and, above all, octopus is prepared with great skill. The undisputed star is the already mentioned cephalopod, which is served as a starter, salad, risotto, and numerous other variations. The desserts made fresh every day by Chef Marianka are on their way to achieving cult status. There are three mooring places and seven buoys directly in front of the restaurant.

Mljet, Prožura N42°43’52’’, E17°39’03’’ Phone: +385-99-8877951

Restaurant Stermasi Adrian Stermasi’s restaurant, which towers high above the narrow Podskolj Bay, guarded by two islets, is practically the Olympus of the island in terms of gastronomy. From here, you can see as far as the Elaphiti Islands stretching northwest of Dubrovnik. The owner, who speaks German ideally, learned his trade in Hamburg and has built an excellent reputation on Mljet since the early 2000s. He defends consistently and successfully year after year.

Everything is just right here: the ambience, quality of the food and service.

There are five (orange/red) Stermasi buoys in the bay. A reservation is highly recommended.

Mljet, Podskolj N42°42’15’’, E17°44’35’’ Phone: +385-98-9390362

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Top 1 0 C oas tal C roati an Re s t au ra nt s

Konoba Gastro Mare The tranquil Kobaš Bay in the Stonski Canal is no longer an insider tip – it is one of the most sought-after gourmet bays in Croatia.

The newest restaurant, “Gastro Mare” offers a high culinary level! Berths with electricity and water and well-tended sanitary facilities and a chilled bar in front of the building delight the numerous, often prominent guests.

Chef Toni Bjelančić has delighted his guests with Dalmatian cuisine for a long time in the USA, in London and, most recently, in the restaurant “Kulinarum 7” in Vienna.

In an open show kitchen, he celebrates varied, highly creative menus made from regional ingredients and the restaurant’s garden. The charismatic master chef presents to his guests in a protracted manner.

Toni’s fish soup is simple but ingenious and has received several awards!

The fish on offer is now caught using their boat.

Pelješac, Kobaš N42°48’16’’, E17°44’34’’ Phone: +385-97-7968008, +385-99-2617171

Thomas Schedina The full-time graphic artist has been self-publishing the series “Momentas - Exploring Memorable Places” since 2016. The focus is always on special places and bars in a particular region described in text and images. So far, volumes have been published about the Kornati Islands and the Archipelago of Šibenik (2016); the legendary Mljet, the greenest island in the Adriatic Sea (2017); the island of Vis, which was closed to tourists up until 30 years ago and the volcanic triangle in the middle of the Adriatic Sea (2018), and about the island of Lastovo, the medieval pirate hideout (2020).

The new edition “Gourmet Stars along the Adriatic” will be available as of December 13, 2021. In it, thirty-five fabulous restaurants are portrayed, elaborately illustrated, and described in the face of the current crisis.

The entire series is available on www.konoba-guide.com.

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M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

Atlantic C 42

Crossing Are you ready?

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M AGIS TE R NAVIS AU SGABE NO.2

April is the season when boats coming from the Caribbean start making their way to the Mediterranean, facing the west-east Atlantic crossing, the most challenging and most demanding crossing, which only a few amateur sailors decide to tackle. in the Azores, beautiful, remote islands where a few-day stay is both pleasant and useful. There is always something to repair or tune-up before tackling the last leg to Gibraltar..

Can you tell us more generally how you approach and prepare for an Atlantic crossing?

There are two things I often tell those asking me how to prep for an Atlantic crossing on a sailing boat. The very first I’d say is that the Atlantic crossing, nowadays, is a treat that many more people can achieve than one might think. The second thing is that it is men who cross the ocean, not boats.

Today, we meet Omero Moretti, a skipper for 35 years, both for passion and work, and has embarked on an Atlantic crossing 39 times as of today.

Omero, tell us a little bit about the Atlantic crossing from west to east.

Well, it’s undoubtedly harder, more demanding and more technical than the Atlantic crossing to the Caribbean, yet it’s the one that brings me back home and the one that allows me to appreciate the boat’s strength and character to the full. That is why it has always been my favourite crossing.

What does this mean?

The fact that sailing across the ocean today is more manageable than even just a few decades ago is a trivial statement. GPS, satellites and equipment of all kinds make sailing accessible to even the most inexperienced sailors. There’s no need to go too far back in time, just thinking of my first sailing years: I didn’t have a GPS on board, it wasn’t

I usually follow the return crossing route: this takes me very far north, around 34°- 38°. At these latitudes, the ocean begins to be challenging, but that’s where you have to find the western circulations that can give you a fair wind to sail east. Further south, we are still in the trade wind, but instead of having it in our favour, as it is on average during the outward voyage, it is contrary. And sailing upwind in the ocean, with a three-metre wave when the going is good, is not very pleasant.

Many follow a more southerly route, starting a little later and stocking up on diesel. But apart from the wind, I also like to go north to stop off widespread for leisure boats, and commercial GPS were prohibitively expensive for me. I did everything with a sextant, an astronomy book and the radio (which I used to call the ships I encountered on the way to get confirmation of their estimated position). Downloading weather charts was also time-consuming and not always successful, with weather faxes depending on propagation.

Today I have three GPSs on board, internet and satellite connections for downloading weather (although I still use the radio for my pleasure), and I generally use the sextant only for lecturing the more willing crew.

That said, some aspects have not changed at all over time.

The first - and the reason why I say it’s men who cross, and not boats - is that set sail with 3,000 miles ahead of you still means heading into the unknown, even if that unknown has been fully mapped and covered by satellite signals.

Atl antic cros s i ng : A re Yo u Re a dy?

with their boat. Then we can talk about how to get ready and how to prepare your boat. Writing about getting ready, to me, already is challenging. There’s one thing I’ve learned in 35 years at sea: There are too many variables to be able to say in good conscience, “that’s how you need to prepare for...”. So take the indications as lines along which you can move with your experience and skills.

Let me explain. Nowadays, with 70-foot carbon prototypes with foils, you can do a roaring 50: but none of us is as skilled an athlete as one of the Vendee Globe sailors, nor do we have that sort of organisation behind us. So as a first consideration, I would say you need to be able to manage your boat, from manoeuvres to repairs: it’s useless to talk about an excellent theory if you will never be able to apply it. That’s just the best way never to get going.

We will only have weather forecasts for a few days, and then we will have to take what comes. Assistance from the land is generally available only for a few hundred miles, and then you will need to fend for yourself no matter what happens. Indeed, you now have the luxury of accessing instruments and tools to communicate and feel less alone.

Still, ultimately only you can make the necessary decision for your boat and the crew you’re sailing with.

Are there any essential technical features?

I believe that the essential technical checks should be those concerning those parts most heavily used: the mast and rigging, the rudder blade, the stanchion and the sea intakes. Halyards are also subject to a lot of stress during long voyages, often at the same speed, so it is essential to check them, change them if necessary and certainly prepare one that has already been passed into the mast in case it breaks.

“I often say that an Atlantic crossing should be the end of a journey, not the starting point.”

This reminds me of one of my most favourite motto: two of everything.

Something the ocean taught me and that I carry with me after countless breakages. The last one that gave me a hard time was the breakage of one of the two forestays during a return Atlantic crossing. We were a thousand miles away from everything, but luckily Freya, my boat, also has two stays.

How do you prepare for this “sailing into the unknown”?

Over the years, on my 39 Atlantic crossings, teaching people to leave the dock with awareness has been the most crucial part of my work.

I also talk a lot about these aspects in my book, Il mestiere del mare (Working at sea), published by Il Frangente. Sorry for the publicity, but they really are topics that would take many pages!

Let’s say that awareness and a little bit of sea experience are the fundamental prerequisites for those who want to tackle a crossing

M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

If you don’t sail alone, spend some time preparing your crew. Sail together first. Get to know each other and make sure the roles are as clear as possible. Once you are in the middle of the sea, there is one and only one captain, there must be discipline, and it is a matter of safety that it should be so.

This is even more apparent on a west-eastern crossing, where the boat can encounter even more significant challenges, and often so is your crew. When I sail in the North Atlantic, I reinforce the portholes with plexiglass from the outside, and I stow the anchor and chain in the bilge to better balance the weights. In short, it takes technique, and you can’t just improvise.

How much experience at sea do you need to embark on an Atlantic crossing?

I often say that an Atlantic crossing should be the end of a journey, not the starting point. I know that nowadays, with everything seeming more accessible and comfortable and with so many videos often showing only part of the story, many people approach this experience without having sailed at least a little bit first.

Crossing the Atlantic can not only dangerous, but also, if you have not internalised what it means to really sail the sea, you risk living half a crossing with the anxiety of missing your flight when you arrive, or worse, of getting bored, instead of enjoying the ride.

Wenn Sie mehr über Omero und seine Reisen erfahren möchten, segeln Sie auf seinem Instagram-Account @omeromoretti oder besuchen Sie seine Website omeromorettivela.it

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Bü h n e Fre i

STEALING THE SHOW It’s a woman’s world with Sara Teghini.

onboard

Can you tell us a bit about yourself? How did you get into the world of sailing?

I’m from a place far from the sea, like many of those who eventually choose to live there. My first sailing experience was for a holiday many years ago, and I still remember that feeling of freedom and wonder I felt. Really, it’s still a very vivid feeling, and one of the best things that happen to me on board is to see it again in the people who choose for the first time a sailing holiday with us on the Freya.

The path that led me to sail is one of those somewhat tortuous and, I think, partly random ones, which only make sense when you look back at them after a few years. Maybe I’ll tell you the whole story another time because it’s perhaps too long. However, I can tell you the exact moment when I decided that living on a boat would be my life.

For my 35th birthday, I decided to treat myself to my first Atlantic crossing, from Malaga to the Canaries. One night, while I was sleeping, I heard the boat making unusual movements, and I went out to see what was going on. The Portuguese trade wind, a strong wind from the North, was blowing our way downwind as the boat glided along the African coast. The skipper had manoeuvred and rigged the spinnaker to catch it as best he could. So when I got out, I had the feeling that the boat was flying over the sea on a moonless night with the silver sea in its wake.

The dots connected when I arrived in the Caribbean and met Omero (Omero Moretti) and Freya (his boat). And that’s when I began my second chapter, which has now lasted seven years, three Atlantic crossings and several thousand miles.

We often talk about sailing as a school of life, rewarding, essential.

Does this apply to you, you think?

Yes, it has been like that ever since I went on holiday for the first time when sailing was something totally new to me, and it’s still the same every day, even if I live life onboard in a completely different way. Taking everything back to basics is a trait of my character. It always has been, and it’s as if sailing allows me to live it “naturally”, without forcing it, without conditioning, without having to explain it.

What do you think attracts women to sailing? Maybe a sense of independence, freedom..what are your thoughts?

I don’t know. To be honest, I don’t even know if women are attracted to sailing. What seems more important to me is that they are no longer turned away from it if they want to approach this world. As always, the road is uphill, or rather, against the wind, but I have met very few women who shy away from what they decide is their own challenge.

I think it’s important to say that an experience on a sailing boat, I mean an experience of sailing rather than a holiday, can be very helpful in gaining courage and believing in yourself more. I learned to listen to myself, trust my instincts, make decisions quickly and under stress, and rely on others. It was indeed like that for me. I don’t think it is trivial, and maybe it is an essential aspect for other women.

So many women have gone on to achieve leading roles in sailing.

Think of Britain’s Ellen MacArthur, who entered ocean racing at a very young age and held world speed records. Or the Frenchwoman Isabelle Autissier, the first woman to sail around the world on a sailing boat. Are we witnessing an important change in your opinion leading to a growing interest in the world of sailing on the part of women?

I think the exact same change has finally arrived in the traditionally male-dominated world of sailing that has arrived in many other areas of sport, work and life in general. And since you mentioned Ellen MacArthur, I’ll give you an example of what women can bring to this world in a new and better way. During her solo round-the-world voyage, Ellen MacArthur began to think about the importance of reusing and saving resources on board. From that reflection, she decided to create her foundation, one of the most important in the world (perhaps the most important) among those dealing with circular economies. As in all things, if we don’t insist on copying a male model, we may have more to say and more to give.

Do you think that in the future there will be more and more women entering sailing?

It’s inevitable, fortunately!

What is your advice to women attracted to sailing but have not yet embarked on a boat experience?

Obviously, I’d say...try it. Travelling alone, so that you can enjoy the whole experience without being conditioned, and choosing an experience that is perhaps not too demanding (I also give this advice to men, to be honest). It is also crucial to choose an experienced skipper who is open-minded and familiar with women on boats. Nowadays, many of the tasks requiring muscular strength can be replaced by good technique. When sometimes Freya unfurls its sails to the wind a bit too much, Omero knows how to adjust the strength so as to make them more manageable for me.

Learn more about Sara’s sail trips on www.omeromorettivela.it, or start following Sara and Omero on Instagram @omeromoretti.

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M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

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Pack your suitcase like a sailing pro

We’ve all been there, haven’t we? You wait for months for your holiday and then it comes so suddenly that you forget half of what you really need to pack. We’ve made it easy for you (we hope!) and listed the most important things for your next sail...A checklist based on the experience of the Sailogy crew. Save it on your phone, when it’s about time it will come in handy!

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MAGISTER M AGIS TE RNAVIS NAVIS AUSGABE AU SGABE NO.2 NO.2 Travel documents Passport Identity card Sailing licence

Radio licence, pyro licence, if available Driving licence Vaccination certificate

Insurance card International health insurance Emergency numbers

Money Cash in the local currency EC card Credit card / Pin

Medicine Medication for seasickness (plasters, tablets, chewing gum, bracelet) Personal medication

Mosquito spray

Hygiene Toothbrush Toothpaste Deodorant Shampoo Body lotion

Hair dryer Razor Sunscreen Aprés Sun Feminine hygiene (sanitary towels, tampons...)

Hairbrush / comb Hair elastics Cosmetics

Shoes Wellingtons with light-coloured soles (depending on the district) Sneakers with light-coloured soles, boat shoes

Flip-flops (shore leave) Shoes for going out

Clothes Fleece pullover/jacket Trousers / shorts, short Trousers / jeans, long Cap / Hats Rain/salt water resistant clothing

Shirt Sweater Pullover Rain jacket / rain cape Sailing gloves

Pyjamas Socks Sunglasses with safety strap Underwear Change of clothes

Technical equipment / entertainment Digital camera incl. battery/charging cable Single lens reflex camera, lenses, polarising filter Underwater camera Binoculars Lighter Carabiner

Mobile phone incl. charging cable Powerbank Tablet/ Laptop Scissors Torch, waterproof ocket knife / tool

SD-card Books Card games Clothesline, pegs Waterproof sea bag

Bathing / Beach Bath towel Towel Bathing linen

Swimming shoes Diving goggles (if not on board) Snorkel (if not on board)

Covid Mask Hand disinfection Surface disinfection Proof of vaccination/testing, if necessary

Underwater camera (if applicable)

Reserve your yacht now and enjoy the most luxurious, stunning and safe holidays!

Experience exceptional service while cruising the endless Blue.

Our fleet of 85 yachts consists of 30 fully crewed catamarans one of the largest fleets in Europe (ranging from 80ft to 45ft) and 55 bareboat/skipper yachts including, 23 monohulls (41ft to 55ft) and 32 catamarans (ranging from 38ft to 50ft).

M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

Underestimated Pearl of the Adriatic

ISTRIA “Putnik dobrodošlice - Welcome Traveller” is the local greeting you’ll often read as you approach the city harbour in Istria.

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Although the harbours of Istria are better known as starting points for cruises to Dalmatia or the Kvarner Bay, the north of Croatia is worth visiting on your boat for several reasons, we will sum them up here for you.

M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

The sailing area of Istria is a wealth of culture and history. Just starting with the town of Rovinj, often described as the most beautiful town in Istria, with its quaint little bays, crystal-clear water and beautiful, dreamy old town with countless small cafés, or the extraordinary, almost Africanlike nature in the Brijuni National Park. There’s a bit of something for everyone’s taste here. We’ll go on a circular journey of just under 145 SM, split into 7 stops in this itinerary.

Culinary delights are well catered for in the marina. If the adjacent 5-star Grand Park Hotel Rovinj is not to your liking, you can enjoy typical local dishes in one of the numerous restaurants nearby. The third alternative is to moor in the anchorage of Lon. The centre is only a few minutes walk away and also invites you to take a stroll.

Our journey begins in Pula, the largest and the oldest city in Istria. Pula is a very diverse city offering tourists azure blue bays and all sorts of tourist attractions. With a marina safely situated in a natural bay, its historic harbour once served as the most critical military port and is only a few metres away from Pula’s most important sights. Those interested in Roman history should not miss the old amphitheatre, the Arc de Triomphe and the city walls. The sixth-largest arena in the world was built from 2 BC to 14 AD and is now used during the summer months for various events such as concerts, exhibitions and film festivals.

Rovinj

In the evening, too, a stroll into the old town, through the winding alleys, past charming houses, across Marsala Tita Square, is highly recommended. On the way, you will pass numerous cafes and restaurants that invite you to linger. Towering over the old town, you will never lose sight of the town’s landmark, the Church of St. Eufemija. If you take the time to visit the baroque church, you will be rewarded with a dreamlike view of the sea and neighbouring islands.

Pula

With a total of 195 berths, the ACI Marina’s access to boats is well signposted thanks to the two lighthouses. Just a note for sailors: keep an eye on the irregularly anchored iron buoys along the course to the marina.

Getting to the harbour if you land by plane is convenient with Pula International Airport only 5 kilometres from the city centre.

After your arrival and check-in, we recommend that you explore the town and its historical sights and end the day in one of the numerous exquisite fish restaurants before setting off for Rovinj the next day.

Today, a pearl for all art lovers is on the agenda. Only 9 km from Rovinj is the 200-year-old village of Porec. Protected by the island of Sveti Nikola, the village is located on a narrow headland on the west coast. The Rivijera Hotel offers various options for anchoring. However, here too, attention must be paid to the winds. In SW or W winds, the north-eastern shore of the island of SV Nikola should be preferred for anchoring. With 120 berths, Porec Marina does not offer many berths, mostly as most of them are oc-

It is not surprising that Rovinj is called the most beautiful town in Istria.

Its beautiful alleys dating back to the Middle Ages, the vibrant waterfront promenade and the romantic old town will give that maritime holiday vibe from the very first moment you set foot there.

Mooring in Rovinj depends on the weather and the time of year. The north side of the old town, for example, offers very inexpensive moorings, which are, however, often already occupied and are not well suited when the wind is blowing from the north. More berths are available at ACI Marina Rovinj. After the reopening of the marina in 2019, it is now one of the most exclusive marinas in the area. With around 200 berths in the water, it also offers space for larger yachts. In addition to the usual comforts such as water and electricity supply and sanitary facilities, the marina offers an enchanting l view of the town.

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Porec

Unde re s ti mate d Pe ar l of th e Ad r iat ic . Is t ri a .

cupied by permanent berth holders. Unfortunately, there is little space for guest berth holders in this marina. However, if you have secured a berth, electricity and water connections are, of course, available here as well.

Art lovers will enjoy the many exhibitions and the summer art festival “Poreč Open Air Festival”. The Euphrasian Basilica, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is also worth a visit. The island has already won several awards for its diverse tourism offer. The small town knows how to charm its visitors with its flair.

Of course, the culinary gourmets among you will not miss out either.

Unfortunately, we couldn’t try it ourselves. Still, based on several recommendations, we can in good conscience recommend a visit to “Na Moru”, where you can enjoy seafood variations on the terrace with a sea view. Here, the chef cooks himself on an open wood fire, and they will be happy to help you when you moor in Valun harbour.

At our next stop, you could be forgiven for thinking that you had mistaken the continent and accidentally landed in Africa. Fear not - just a few nautical miles from Pula is the Brijuni National Park, where zebras and antelopes graze alongside llamas. The animals were once brought to the island owner as gifts and have been living there in a safari park ever since.

The 36 km² national park includes 14 islands. The safari park is located on the largest of the islands, Veli Brijun. This island is free to visit and is a

Unije

After another 20 SM you arrive back at the marina in Pula for check-out.

After check-out, you can visit the sights you didn’t see on the first day, or you can end the cruise with a good glass of wine in one of the many cosy restaurants while reviewing your holiday.

Brijuni National Park

particular highlight for families with children because of the park and its animals. The other islands are mostly privately owned and may not be entered.

If the visit to the national park is fascinating, the next stop offers the ideal conditions to relax. Our journey is 26 km long to Unije, an island in the Kvarner Bay, known for its olive groves. What makes this island quite unique is that cars are not allowed. The tiny village houses only a few restaurants and a small shop. Please note that there are neither banks nor ATMs on the island. It is a quiet place, ideal for relaxing while walking around the island! Also important to note is that the pier was built for scheduled services. It may be necessary to vacate the mooring early in the morning, so it is advisable to anchor freely in the bay, south of the pier.

Last but not least, we would like to give you an independent recommendation for your individual planning. The described route is only a recommendation from us. Of course, you are as flexible as possible in your planning. At this point, we would like to recommend a planning tool that can be used to plan a cruise in Istria particularly well. The Harbour Guide - Croatia, Montenegro and Slovenia by Emma Glaumann, Joakim Hermansson and Per Hotvedt.

With traditional harbour plans and aerial photographs, we recommend reading them for planning your cruise. For those who want additional culinary tips, we also recommend the Momentas Guides. That’s where you will find the best Croatian restaurants along your sail.

More details about life jackets can be found at blauwasser.de

Our penultimate stop brings us to the picturesque village of Valun on the island of Cres. It is about 16 miles from Unije.

You can moor at the town pier. The marina has only 10 berths, some of which have mooring lines.

Note the varying water depths along the quay, and that mooring is not possible or very difficult in a northerly wind.

The 60 souls village (more or less, for real!) is famous because of the discovery of the Valun tablet, a tomb slab from the 11th century, the oldest “written document” in the Croatian language. You can see it today in the church of the village. You can enjoy a fabulous view from the Lubenice fortress, which towers high above the sea.

Valun

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Sailogy offers yachts on all locations marked with this icon. For detailed information, please visit www.sailogy.com

WIND CONDITIONS Ever thought of visiting Croatia from a different perspective?

Start with Sailogy today!

SAILING INFO

CROATIA

TIDAL RANGE

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link: https://www.sailogy.com/ en/destination/croatia-north

LEVEL OF SAILING DIFFICULTY

Croatia is a great spot for beginners: short distances between the islands, easy sailing and infrastructure built around sailors ensure the most optimal sailing conditions.

BEST TIME TO TRAVEL April to October.

ANCHORING

Here you will find everything: anchor bays, buoy fields and professionally equipped marinas - or mooring directly at the restaurant jetty. Hardly any other area is so professionally equipped for sailing yachts.

HARBOUR FACILITIES

Most harbours are usually well equipped with electricity and water.

Supermarkets allow easy bunkering of provisions almost everywhere.

PRICES

Beer: 2.50 euros, cappuccino: 2 euros, local dishes: from 9 euros; note: in the tourist centres you can easily add 20 to 50 %.

GETTING THERE

Split, Zagreb, Zadar, Pula and Dubrovnik are served by direct flights from many airports.

LANGUAGES SPOKEN

English is spoken by most people so you can get by easily.

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Segelsaison 2021 four seasons yachting hat die Gruppe „Segelsaison 2021“ erstellt.

Corona hat die Gruppe verlassen.

Quarantäne hat die Gruppe verlassen.

Deutschlandurlaub hat die Gruppe verlassen.

E G R O

THE ATTITUDE MAKES THE DIFFERENCE. 7 Reviere, über 150 Yachten und mehr als 14.000 zufriedene Kunden.

Jetzt den Segeltörn für 2021 buchen – bei Ihren Experten Master Yachting und four seasons yachting.

Mehr Infos auf: www.four-seasons-yachting.com

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MAGISTER M a g iste r Nav NAVIS i s Issue AUSGABE No 2 NO.2

Vive Mallorca

It is no secret that Mallorca is a popular destination for many tourists, from pretty much anywhere in Europe and beyond. However, the fact that it is one of the most beautiful islands of the Balearic Islands from water is perhaps not known to everyone.

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In this article, we would like to present you with a route that includes the most beautiful marinas on the island and, at just under 166 SM, is easily doable in 7 days.

Where better to start the journey than in Porto Colom, the town rumoured to be the birthplace of Christopher Columbus? From Palma, it takes just under an hour by car to reach the former fishing village.

Today’s town has just over 3 thousand inhabitants and is located in the southeast of Mallorca. It is home to the largest natural harbour on the island, in a very well sheltered spot.

Isla Cabrera

A “must-see” is the Cova Blava, the blue cave located at the northernmost tip of Cabrera. When the sun shines into the cave, the water shimmers an almost unnatural blue and invites you to a beautiful, refreshing swim.

Docked in the harbour, you can reminisce about your first impressions of the trip over a cerveza in one of the small, quiet tavernas until you carry on the busier Palma the next day.

Portocolom

Once you’re all settled in on your boat, you will find more time to explore the surrounding area. There are several worthy beaches within walking distance of the harbour, but we’d recommend one in particular: the beach of S’Arenal, on the peninsula opposite the town centre. With its beautiful lighthouse, the beach can easily be reached by car, bicycle or on foot. The actual beach of S’Arenal is popular over here, thus we recommend sailing just over the beach and stopping a few metres further.

Another less known and quiet beach area, greened with shady pine trees, appears in front of you - from the beach, you have a great view of Porto Colom’s natural harbour.

Today’s destination is probably the best known of our trip.

25 SM separate the small Isla Cabrera and Palma. If you haven’t already had a chance to get an impression of Palma, let me tell you that Palma is not just a colossal party mile. Quite the opposite: with its beautiful old city centre, the shopping and several bathing beaches, the capital leaves nothing to be desired.

With over 200 berths at your disposal, Palma’s harbour offers an exceptionally good opportunity to moor safely and is located right in the heart of the city, just a few minute-walk from the centre.

Palma offers its visitors a diverse selection of sights and leisure activities.

The best thing to do is to decide on the spot which of the places you

You can end your evening in one of the quaint local restaurants there. If you like Spanish cuisine, we recommend the HPC Porto Colom, for the mouth-watering paellas, salads, carpaccios, tartars and fresh seafood plus a great view of the bay (which, let’s be honest, never hurts!). The adjoining bar also offers a pleasant atmosphere to linger in because you won’t find parties and loud music in Porto Colom.

The first stop on our route is Isla Cabrera (beware, here you need a state permit to enter the national park in the form of a ticket!).

During the almost 22-nautical-mile trip, you will pass beautiful, fine-sand bays whose azure waters invite you to take a swim or at least a break on the deck of the yacht.

Once you arrive at Isla, you can enjoy the island to the full with the “Cabrera Permit”. It has a small harbour, but you cannot anchor there as you find yourself in a nature reserve. What you can do instead is moor at one of the 50 buoys. When you visit the island, nights are limited to one night in July and August; two nights in June and September and up to seven nights in the remaining months.

Entering the bay of “Goat Island”, one immediately notices the fortress on the left, which served as protection against pirates and buccaneers in the 14th century. The high rock walls of the island offered and still offer good protection. Depending on what you fancy, we recommend a visit to the fortress or take a swim with a scuba diving mask and marvel at the numerous fish that already live almost trustingly in the bays thanks to the small number of licensed fishing boats.

Palma

would like to visit. And if you can’t decide? Why not rent a scooter and take a look at several of the city’s highlights at once? Many companies offer this sort of experience, and it’s fun to explore the surroundings, including the mountains outside the city, on a scooter.

Had enough of the tourist hustle and bustle of the big city after the day? Then today, we continue to Sant Elm & Isla Dragonera. Today, our route covers approximately twenty-two nautical miles and offers beautiful views of Mallorca’s mountain ranges and unspoilt nature both

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en route and at the destination. Isla Dragonera, the “Dragon Island”, is a nature reserve, popular not only with hikers but often highly recommended among divers. If you are one of those holidaymakers who like to explore the surroundings on foot, we can recommend the ascent to the Far Vell lighthouse, 353 metres above the sea. The tower, built in the 16th century, offers a great view of the island and the west coast of Mallorca. As the island does not offer any localities, the journey continues to Sant Elm after the short stopover.

explored in more detail on a hike. The small, picturesque coastal town is famous for its historic tramway and the large bay with its sheltered harbour and was also a filming location for the Hollywood production “Cloud Atlas”. The tramway, reminiscent of San Francisco, is especially recommended. While today it is a beautiful way to travel around the bay, it was once designated for transporting ranges and lemons between the city and the harbour. The citrus orchards still give you a typical Mediterranean holiday feeling.

The marina in Port de Sóller is located on the north-east side of the bay and is protected from north-westerly winds by the Racó de Santa Caterina peninsula. The entrance to the harbour is easy. Just look for the black and white striped fire Sa Creu in the north and the lighthouse Cabo Gros in the south, marking the entrance to the bay. Moored in the harbour, you will, of course, find a restaurant as well as facilities for showers and washing/drying clothes.

In this marina, it is key to note that the boat length is limited to 15 m and the draught to 3 m. There is also a diesel filling station. There is also a diesel filling station on site.

Isla Dragonera

Enjoy the time on land again in Sóller. Our tour on the next day to Colonia de Sant Pere foresees a longer time on the water with almost 41 SM. To get to Colonia de Sant Pere/ San Pedro, we will make full use of the time on the boat. Enjoy the beautiful nature of the north of Mallorca. A particular highlight on the way is the bay of Sa Calobra, which, according to insiders, is home to the most beautiful pebble beach in the Balearics.

The island does not have its marina, so you have to moor at one of the 14 mooring buoys. The buoys are opposite Es Geperut, one of the largest beaches in Sant Elm, which is partly sheltered by the island of Pantaleu. The water here is quite deep, so that larger yachts can moor here too.

The small village, home to just under 450 inhabitants, is known for its unspoilt nature. This island is all about relaxation. The view of the mountains, excellent local fish make this the perfect stop to unwind and truly get to ‘unplug the plug’ from the mental noise.

Now you’ve had enough of the quiet island life? Just as well that our destination today, Port de Sóller, offers just the right mix of relaxation Colonia de Sant Pere

Port de Sóller

and entertainment. Today’s leg is about 23 nautical miles.

This small, tranquil town lies in the heart of the Tramuntana mountains.

Not for nothing was it declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can admire the crystal-clear water and the hierarchical mountain ranges from your yacht as on the previous day. The island almost calls out to be

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Surrounded by fallen rocks, the beach is worth a short break.

Once in Colonia, you can moor up at one of the 307 berths provided.

Even if you should enter the harbour in the dark, it will not be a problem. The entrance is easy to handle, as the harbour is well lit, and there are no shallows. Orientate yourself here by the black and white striped lighthouse to the west of the harbour. Colonia de Sant Pere Marina has a small café and canteen, the Club Nàutic. If you want a typical local meal, you have to walk to the charming beach promenade. This connects to the eastern end of the harbour, directly to the less frequented sandy beach.

Along the promenade, you will find some authentic local fish restaurants.

Here fish is caught daily by the local fishermen anchoring in the marina.

Enjoy the last evening before returning to Porto Colom the next day.

During almost 33 SM, you can enjoy the last hours on board before you return your yacht to Porto Colom. Relax again on board and look back on this beautiful trip.

We recommend enjoying the sunset at the lighthouse after check-out while you are already planning your next trip.

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Do you like what you’re reading?

Sail the Baleares with us! link: https://www.sailogy.com/ en/destination/balearic-islands

LEVEL OF SAILING DIFFICULTY

The Balearic Islands are ideal for beginners. You won‘t find any particular sailing complexity here and the wind is predictable. The Spanish east coast can be more challenging.

BEST TIME TO TRAVEL Baleares: January till December.

Coastline: May till September.

ANCHORING

There are many marinas, harbours and bays on the Balearic Islands.

Along the coast, harbours and marinas perfect for spending the night.

HARBOUR FACILITIES

Harbour facilities are excellent. Supermarkets, restaurants and shops are easy to find everywhere. Electricity and water are widely available in all marinas.

PRICES

Beer: 3 Euro, Cappuccino: 1,5 Euro, local dishes: up to a maximum of 18 Euro.

GETTING THERE

Nearest airports: Barcelona, Girona, Alicante.

LANGUAGES SPOKEN Spanish and English.

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MAGISTER M a g iste r Nav NAVIS i s Issue AUSGABE No 2 NO.2

GREECE Sailing to the absolute best of the Aegean Sea

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It is not without reason that the Aegean is one of the most popular sailing areas in the world. Plenty of wind, breathtaking nature and relatively low prices attract more and more water sports enthusiasts to the Mediterranean Sea - nestled between Greece and Turkey.

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M a g iste r Nav i s Issue No 2

The Aegean Islands are grouped into seven primarily. In this itinerary, we will focus on the eastern part of the Aegean.

Let the journey begin from probably one of the most famous Greek spot in the Med, where you can sail from and prepare for the next seven days of crystal clear waters, endless sandy beaches, historical sites and picturesque natural paradises. We’re talking, of course, of Rhodes.

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Rhodes

Rhodes Marina is located southeast of the city harbour on the east coast and is just 14 kilometres from the international airport. After a lengthy reconstruction and rebuilding, it now offers 563 berths. Easy to both enter and exit the marina. One minor note: Watch out for the sand bar in the harbour. When approaching on the way back or at night, the harbour entrance is well-lit on both sides.

After checking in with your charter on your arrival there, you should take the time to stroll a little through this UNESCO World Cultural Heritage city.

You’ll surely want to explore the azure blue water bays as you sail your way along the island. Rhodes also offers a veritable splendour of natural beauty. For example, you can explore the Valley of the Butterflies with its most colourful butterflies and hibiscus blossoms or, for those of you interested in history, visit the St. John’s Fortress in Monolithos.

Of course, at the end of our seven-day tour, there is still the possibility to visit some of the numerous highlights of the island worth seeing, as it will be difficult to do justice to the island with all its different facets in a short time.

The island is abundant with pines and oaks with unique neoclassical architecture; it’s a unique gem in the Mediterranean. The harbour village of Gialos on Symi was once famous for sponge diving (you’ll find many of the souvenir shops selling natural sponges). The village is worth a stroll, especially with its winding alleys, which could end in one of the countless small tavernas at the harbour with a glass of wine and delicious Greek specialities before you head to Mandraki on Nisyros Island the following day.

Today we sail for a little longer at 39 SM, but you’ll soon find that your destination is well worth it.

The extraordinary scenery of Mandraki harbour on Nisiros has amazed many visitors. Only a few SM away from Kos, the island is still a real insider’s tip. The marina welcomes you with three beautiful old windmills. Once there, you can moor at the northern or western part of the quay. We recommend avoiding the southern part, as it quickly becomes shallow, and mooring can be difficult due to fill-ups.

Mandraki lies at the foot of a volcano. In what seems like a beautiful picturesque contrast, the tiny white houses will seem to shine even more against the dark volcanic rock. We recommend renting a scooter and taking a trip to Emborio. The small village is located directly on the crater rim and offers a fantastic view of the sea, the island and the volcano.

Pull up your anchor up and off we set sail for the unknown destination of Ano Symi, or Symi for short, an island located at the very edge of the Aegean Sea. Today’s route covers 25 SM, including a small stopover in the beautiful bay of Nanou. This bay is perfect for anchoring and cooling off after enjoying the first hours of your holiday with a delicious lunch on the boat.

After you have enjoyed Nanou sufficiently, you continue to the harbour of Symi, where you can moor overnight. Typically for the area, you will be moored off bow anchors on the north and south sides of the basin.

Due to fluctuating water depths, the depth gauge should not be left unattended. It can quickly get up to 40m deep. Thus make sure you have enough chain ready! When entering the marina, the harbour crew assigns your berth and the berthing fees. You’ll be able to pay for both water and electricity at the same time.

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Mandraki on Nisiros

If you make the trip to Emborio, we recommend the Taverna to Balconi to Emporeiou, which offers delicious local food right on the crater rim with an incredible view. If you prefer to dine at the harbour near the

Gre e ce : S ail i ng to th e ab s ol ute b e s t of th e Ae g e a n S e a

yacht, we can recommend the Aphrodite Grill & Seafood Restaurant, right on the water. Here, not only the delicious Greek food is convincing, but also the friendly service.

On the fourth day, we are off to Kos. The most famous island of the Dodecanese is only 22 km from Nisiros. While Hippocrates once taught at the university on Kos, the island is now a popular tourist destination.

You arrive at the officially chosen second best harbour in Europe, which offers 250 berths with mooring lines, water supply, electricity, petrol station and 24-hour surveillance, as well as many extras in reception such as ATM, weather report and internet. There are many historical highlights to see on Kos, such as the plane tree of Hippocrates, which according to legend, was first planted by Hippocrates himself more than 2400 years ago. Or the ancient Agora, the oldest excavation site in Kos. The mountain village of Zia is a special treat within a short walking distance. A short climb takes you to the church of “Kimissis tis Theotokou”, from where you can indulge in a magnificent view of the north coast. Halfway there, you will find a recommendable colourful

Today’s destination - Livadia on Tilos Island The small village of Livadia is on the island of Tilos, about 34 km from Kos. The village of 300 inhabitants is characterised by its many churches, with many white and pastel-coloured houses.

When you moor there in the harbour, you will immediately notice the many small fishing boats in the harbour. On one side of the bay, you’ll find the medieval port of Agios Stefanos with its quaint lighthouse; on the other side, behind the village, you will see a lush green, fertile valley. The nearest beach, which is particularly inviting for snorkelling as a pebble beach, is right next to the harbour. If you are looking for more beaches, you can walk along the coast to the last more extensive

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bar where you can stop for a delicious coffee. Unfortunately, Zia is no longer an insider tip, and many tourists come to the small village every day. Therefore, we recommend an early morning or late evening visit.

If you are looking for a wildlife treat, you should check out the large flocks of pink flamingos at the Alikes salt lake near Tigaki. The right time to do this is at sunset when the birds fly into the evening.

The right time also to enjoy a freshly caught fish or calamari with delicious ouzo in one of the tavernas at the harbour...

Livadia on Tilos Island

black rock formation. Behind it is a collection of small lakes with green water, an ideal way to cool off from your walk in the warm sun with a dip in the cool water. The island’s nature resembles Crete’s, with olive groves, whimsically shaped sea-whipped rocks of red and black lava and mountains of limestone. The island also offers a wonderful selection of small tavernas and cafés, all located near the harbour. If you like seafood, the Filoxenia Restaurant is the place to be.

We have just under 19 nautical miles to go before we reach Halki Island on our penultimate day at sea. Halki Island is the perfect quiet anchoring stop: spared by the hordes of tourists, you will find it a peaceful resting place on your sailing cruise in the Aegean. Only about 350 people live on the 28 km² island, and it reminds us a little of the Greece of 30 years ago. The picturesque island is ideal for hiking, and the locals are happy to provide information on possible destinations, such as the pebble beach of Ftenagia. Just a 20-minute walk from the harbour town of Halki. The small promenade with a few local restaurants invites you to linger while enjoying the last evening.

One restaurant recommended here is the Minori Restaurant, serving traditional home-cooked food.

On your last day, we sail back to Rhodes with 38 SM. Even after check out, we recommend indulging a few more days in Rhodes (if you haven’t done before your sail) and marvel at the mix of modern culture and entertainment, breathtaking history, local cuisine and beautiful nature.

For example, take a look at the Acropolis, the 3,000-year-old landmark of Lindos, which towers 116 metres above the town. Alternatively, for something less history-heavy, visit the wine village of Embonas, the centre of Rhodian viticulture, where you’ll enjoy wine tasting in many of the local wineries. We are sure that the islands of Dodecanese will remain in your memory as an unforgettable holiday not only on the water but also on land.

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LEVEL OF SAILING DIFFICULTY

The Ionian Sea is a sailing area suitable for less experienced sailors: the islands create sheltered navigation and the winds are light to moderate. In the Aegean, on the other hand, the Meltemi can blow, even in the heart of the summer months. Thus we recommend it for a more experienced sailing crew.

BEST TIME TO TRAVEL April to October..

ANCHORING

Classic marinas or buoy fields are not common. Shore power and water is not available everywhere, so better check before arrival.

HARBOUR FACILITIES

The infrastructure is very good. Supermarkets, restaurants and shops can be found quickly and easily anywhere.

PRICES

Beer: 1,30 Euro, Cappuccino: 2,90 Euro, Local dishes: from 10 euros.

LANGUAGES SPOKEN Greek and English.

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Aeolian Archipelago Local skipper Giovanni speaks out on the absolute must-see spots in this Sicilian Islands

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Just off the northern coast of Sicily, in the southernmost part of Italy, an ancient landscape of sulphur, pumice, and obsidian emerges from the dark waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Its morphology is typical of volcanic islands, the result of geological activity that has shaped them over the millennia, massaged by the sea and wind, which, like artists, have patiently sculpted over the years what we see today. It is no coincidence that the Aeolian Islands earned UNESCO World Heritage status in 2000.

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There is a kind of ‘slow-living in the Aeolian Islands, cadenced by the rhythm of the waves and by fishing and cooking traditions preserved over time. Capers, figs, olives, wild fennel and lemons bigger than your fist grow in abundance in the dense volcanic soils. A glass of sweet Malvasia wine, one of the islands’ most important export, complements this perfect sunny destination. Each of the seven Aeolian islands has its distinct landscape and offerings. Walking on extinct (and active!) volcanoes, bathing on black sand beaches and visiting the incredible rock formations and caves off the coast are just some of the highlights.

Hiring a boat to explore them all allows you to visit them all in a playful step-by-step itinerary where every day if you wish, you can savour a different one, each day, the exploration begins again on a new island.

name originates from a boulder at the end of the cave that looks just like a horse’s head. Just next to the entrance to the great rocky vault is the Piscina di Venere (Venus’ Pool), inside which you will feel “embraced” by the tuff and basalt rocks. Arm yourself with masks and flippers because snorkelling is the one thing you should do in this corner of paradise.

Here we suggest a circular itinerary that will take you to Vulcano all the way to Filicudi. We wrote it together with a local Sicilian and skipper, Giovanni Arena. With several years of experience on his shoulders, Giovanni shares some nautical nuggets and insider tips on the Aeolian Islands onboard your boat.

Departures for the Aeolian Islands There are two main ports from which you can set sail for the Aeolian Archipelago: Portorosa, 15 NM from the closest to the land, Vulcano (about 2h30min sailing) and Capo D’Orlando, 16 NM from Vulcano (about 2h45min sailing).

BEST BAYS TO ANCHOR IN THE AEOLIAN ARCHIPELAGO The Island of Vulcano In terms of size, Vulcano is the third largest and southernmost island in the Aeolian group. It is from here that our boat trip begins. In the past, the volcanic activity that periodically takes place in the Gran Cratere has resulted in people having to evacuate the island. Today, the activity is limited to the fumaroles found in the area around the Fossa and on the isthmus between the Faraglioni and Vulcanello. A strip of land separates Vulcanello from the island, giving rise to the bays of Porto Levante and Porto Ponente from where it is possible to reach the village.

Anchoring tips on Vulcano Bay of Porto Levante Famous for its warm water right next to the beach, this is the central bay from where you can reach Vulcano. It is a bay with a fair amount of maritime traffic due to the only commercial port on the island. It is advisable to be careful when entering the bay, giving precedence to the various regular ferries. Anchoring in front of the beach, to the north of the port, is possible. You’ll find a sandy and muddy seabed ranging from 5 to 11 metres, which is also safe if you want to spend the night.

Buoys are available in this bay or moor at the “Marina di Vulcanello” jetty to the north of the bay or the “Baia di Levante” jetty to the bay’s south inside the commercial port. In high season it is preferable to book the buoy or mooring in advance.

Baia Porto di Ponente This bay is perfect for admiring one of the most beautiful Aeolian sunsets from the boat or one of the lounge bars on the black sandy beach.

Be careful when entering the bay: you may bump into rocks on both the right and left side of the bay. I recommend staying right in the centre and make sure t anchor on a seabed ranging from 5 to 14 metres.

The seabed has a good hold, making it ideal for spending the night, but watch out for the wind: winds can hit the bay quite strongly here.

Vulcano: Grotta del Cavallo As you head towards the island’s western coast, you’ll sail in front of the Grotta del Cavallo: a rocky cove similar to a Greek theatre. The

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Anchoring here is preferably only recommended during the daytime by dropping your anchor inside the bay immediately to the south, circumnavigating the Pietra Quaglietta rock on the outside. The bay has a sandy seabed in the centre with large boulders near the cliff. From here, you can take the tender to the Grotta and the Piscina di Venere.

On the southernmost tip of Vulcano, you will find two beautiful bays.

Baia di Gelso and Baia Della Spiaggia del Cannatella, also with black sand, where it is possible to anchor safely between 5 and 12 metres. In Baia di Gelso, the westernmost bay, a small jetty is a landing place for small boats or tenders, and here you can have lunch at the famous da Pina Restaurant (best to book). In the bay of Cannitello beach, during the summer, a bar is open where you can enjoy a happy hour or an aperitif on the beach.

In favourable weather conditions, it is possible to stay in the roadstead also for the night and enjoy the fantastic colours of the sunset and with good visibility, even the majestic Etna in Sicily.

In Vulcano I also recommend...

Especially for trekking lovers, the free excursion to the crater of the island. Estimated time 1 hour to reach the summit. To enjoy an excellent

Navig ati ng th e Ae ol i an A rch i pe l ag o Wit h a L o c al

Sicilian granita, I recommend Ritrovo Remigio in front of the commercial port. Get a taste of the typical Aeolian cuisine in La Bottega Restaurant right in the village centre.

Lipari About 6 NM from the island of Vulcano is Lipari, the largest and oldest of the Aeolian Islands and the most populated. On the east side of the island is Lipari, divided into two villages: Marina Corta and Marina Lunga. Starting from Marina Corta, you can walk along with Monte Rosa and the village of Canneto. From here, you will find the famous white beaches with their pumice quarries: a must-stop here where the seabed is even more crystalline. Worth a stop is the village of Acquacalda, a hamlet of Lipari, where I recommend stopping for the obsidian flows. On the island’s western side, you will see some jaw-dropping cliffs ending right into the sea. Being on a boat has the luxury of seeing what often cannot be spotted from land: in fact, you can spot the innumerable coves, caves, the Petra Longa and Petra Menalda only from onboard.

Anchoring tips in Lipari At Marina Corta, you will find a small harbour for small fishing boats only and, in any case, reserved for local boats. In front of Marina Corta or immediately to the south of the harbour entrance, it is possible to anchor on a sandy seabed of about 12 metres. Beware of local traffic when approaching. This anchoring is ideal for visiting the village or spending the night.

A bit further north, you will find Marina Lunga, where you can moor on several floating bridges and take advantage of all the essential yachting services. Alternatively, floating docks are a little further down in the small pleasure port (Porto Pignataro).

In the bay of Marina Lunga, you can refuel at the “Eolian Bunker” jetty just outside Porto Pignataro. I recommend that you always give priority to regular ferries and be careful, especially in high season.

There are many bays along the island worth a stop, from Capo Rosso on the north-eastern side of the island. This unspoilt paradise can only be reached by boat, to Spiaggia Praia di Vinci at the southern end of the island, perfect for snorkelling. We recommend our article on the most beautiful shores of Lipari written also in collaboration with skipper Giovanni Arena.

On Lipari, I also recommend...

On Lipari, it’s worth hiring a car or moped to explore the island’s interior. Among the many good restaurants on Lipari, the Trattoria del Vicolo, where you will find traditional Sicilian and Aeolian dishes reinterpreted in a modern key, is worth visiting. La Kasbah restaurant, housed in an old theatre, is nestled in the alleyways of Lipari. Refined in its simplicity, it opens onto a cosy and welcoming garden of olive trees. And finally, the Ristorante da Filippino if you want to taste the excellent fish. For a delicious granita or typical Sicilian pastry, I recommend La Pasticceria d’Ambra in Marina Corta or Subba in Marina Lunga.

Panarea From Lipari, we continue our week’s sailing in the Aeolian Islands to Panarea. The island, which is 10NM from Lipari (about 1h40min), is famous for its nightlife, lounge bars, discos under the stars, boutiques and white houses with blue doors and windows, but above all for its crystal clear water ideal for snorkelling. From the harbour area, you can visit the quaint city centre on foot.

At the island’s southern tip, there are two main coves: Cala Zimmari and Cala Junco.

Anchoring tips in Panarea Cala Zimmari is a safe harbour, well sheltered from the winds and the regular sea coming from the fourth quadrant, so it is ideal for anchoring both during the day and at night. From here you can land on the beach, from where you can reach the nearby prehistoric village or the island’s centre in about 20 minutes on foot.

Cala Junco is a corner of paradise set among the rocks. I strongly recommend doing some snorkelling here: the seabed inside the cove

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is exceptional here. Thus I recommend dropping anchor immediately outside to venture out with your mask and fins.

If you want to visit the island leaving the boat in peace and safety, in good weather, I recommend that you take one of the many buoys with taxi service included in the price positioned along the east coast of the island. It is possible to book them or when you are outside the buoy field, a dinghy will ask you directly if you want to moor.

The nearby islets of Basiluzzo frame Panarea, Dattilo, Bottaro, Spinazzola and the rocks of Lisca Bianca, Lisca Nera, Panarelli and Formiche (pay attention to the latter as they can be a real danger to navigation, especially if you sail at night as they are not marked).

If you are coming from the south, I recommend that you drop anchor during daylight hours between Bottaro and Lisca Bianca on a sandy bottom between 5 and 13 metres without crossing the channel between the two islets because of the shallow water. Anchoring here is a necessity, not only for snorkelling but also for the solfatara (bubbles coming from the bottom of the sea) ideal for a natural hydro-massage.

Stromboli Stromboli is undoubtedly the most surprising of the archipelago’s islands. Its volcano, in perpetual explosive activity, gives incandescent plays of lava that, especially at nightfall, offer unique emotions.

Navigating from Panarea to Stromboli is, without doubt, fascinating and unique in every moment of the 10 miles that separate them (about 2 hours of navigation).

Basiluzzo, the largest of this small archipelago, is another spot worth stopping by. The mix of colours of the seabed and the turquoise water are exceptional. For safe anchoring, I recommend stopping in front of the east coast of the islet on a 9 to 14-metre sand and stone bottom.

Anchoring tips in Stromboli On the north-eastern side of the island is the main town. Here it is possible to anchor on a mixed bed of sand and stones between 5 and 12 metres. Otherwise, it is safer, given the island’s shape, to moor at one of the many buoys (Marina del Gabbiano) in front of the beach at Punta Lena.

On Stromboli I also recommend...

The most popular activity on the island is trekking up the volcano with an expert guide along a path leading to the observation point where you can see the magma pouring out of the crater. For lovers of granitas and arancini, I recommend a stop at Bar Ingrid in the square not only for its delicious specialities but also for the beautiful view over the bay and Strombolicchio.

On the west side of Stromboli, you can admire the rocky wall shaped by the magma flows over the years. For the more experienced, I recommend sailing at sunset to be enchanted by the explosions of fire and lapilli rolling down to the sea. I recommend always check the local protocols on the distance necessary from the coast on this side of the island.

In Panarea I also recommend...

I recommend a visit to the prehistoric village between Cala Junco and Cala Zimmari and trekking along the path from Cala Zimmari and going around the whole island. The restaurants “Cusiritati” and “Da Pina” are perfect for a fish dinner. The Restaurant “Il macellaio” for a meat dinner or a delicious pizza.

For an elegant and suggestive aperitif, I recommend the “Raya” restaurant with a panoramic terrace overlooking the bay of Panarea and Stromboli.

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Salina At 20NM from Stromboli - about 3h20min by boat - you will find Salina, the second-largest island of the Aeolian Archipelago, after Lipari, with an area of about 27 square kilometres. The rich vegetation of ferns, poplars, oaks, vineyards and capers also makes it the greenest, especially in the spring and summer seasons.950m high, Salina is worth spending a day to enjoy the slow pace of life on the island, take a hike up Monte delle Felci or rent a scooter to explore the interior.

Anchoring tips in Salina Santa Marina Salina is the island’s central landing place: here, you will find two ports, one commercial, where you can stock up on fuel and water, while the one further south is the marina (Porto Delle Eolie) dedicated to pleasure boats with all the essential services. If you don’t want to enter the port, you can anchor safely just outside the harbour and then reach the island by tender.

Lingua is a village on the extreme south-eastern tip of the island where

you can anchor on a bottom between 5 and 12 metres for a day or night stop. The lake is very suggestive with the sunset colours, built by the Romans to obtain the salt used to preserve capers and fish. Let yourself be delighted by the Pane Cunzato and granitas of the Ristorante da Alfredo before returning to the boat.

the Montenassari rock. You can anchor here at 12-16 metres, preferably during the daylight hours and with a snorkel because of the rocky seabed. Arm yourself with a mask and flippers and enjoy the view!

Pollara Bay The Bay of Pollara, made famous by the film Il Postino, is a secret treasure of the island and one of the most beautiful in the archipelago. The stone on the cliffs tells the story of this place, as do the old fishermen’s cottages, now converted into fishing depots reached by steep steps.

An almost surreal place where time seems to have frozen.

Anchoring in this corner of the Aeolian Islands is a must if sea and wind conditions permit. Enter the bay from the northwest, keeping between Punta Perciato and Scoglio Faraglione to anchor on a sandy and rocky sea bed of between 5 and 10 metres.

Be careful not to pass between the rock and the coast because of large boulders almost at water level.

Filicudi Formerly called Phoenicodes because of the large number of ferns on the island, steep slopes and rocky coastline characterise this small island formed by a group of craters, the highest of which is Fossa delle Felci (773 m). Together with Alicudi, Filicudi is the furthest island from Sicily. With no roads, the locals often travel on donkeys. Both are perfect for those who want to get off the beaten track. It is 10NM from Salina, about 1h40min by boat.

Anchoring tips in Filicudi On the north side of the island is the harbour bay with the main pier for ferries. Here I do not recommend anchoring as the sea bed is not a good seal, but you can moor at the small floating dock with water service or the buoys.

On the other side of the island, you can anchor in the small bay on the

Alicudi Alicudi is the smallest island of the Aeolian Islands. It has a surface of 5,10 square kilometres, few dozens of people live there, and it is far from Filicudi, about 10 miles heading west (about 1h40min of navigation).

The island has a coin shape: you will not find many sheltered bays, and the seabed drops rapidly. If you want to visit it, I recommend mooring at the buoys available in front of the small village. It is also good to check the weather forecasts here to make sure you find favourable wind and sea conditions.

Sailing home This sailing itinerary of the Aeolian Archipelago can accompany you on your next boating holiday. Depending on the wind and current conditions, it may change. Whether you are an experienced sailor or a skipper, you will know that travelling by boat requires flexibility in planning.

In the same way, we advise you to retrace your steps back to your port of departure, Portorosa or Capo d’Orlando. Still, always considering the wind and current conditions, you can decide together with your skipper and your crew if you want to modify your return route.

Winds on the archipelago in the different seasons The predominant winds during the summer season are those coming from the northeast (grecale). In the winter season, winds from the southwest (libeccio) and west (ponente) are more frequent.

Generally, you can predict weather conditions based on visibility. For example, when you see the coast of Sicily clearly, sirocco winds are coming. If instead in the same conditions you can see the Calabrian coast, you will have easterly winds. If clouds cover Calabria and Sicily, you will have north or west winds, respectively. Elongated clouds form in the opposite direction to the wind.

Source: Esemar.net

south coast as you approach the first small beach on the island west part. Here, I recommend anchoring from 11 metres upwards to avoid the large boulders that have crumbled from the rock face over time.

On the south side, as an alternative to the port, you can also moor near the many buoys available in front of the village of Pecorini a Mare. Here I strongly recommend stopping by the Bar il Saloon, where you can chill in the evenings indulging in a glass of Malvasia wine, which’s so typical around here.

On the west coast of the island of Filicudi, you can admire the beautiful Grotta del Bue (Ox Cave) and half a mile further out to sea, you can see the Canna (a solitary 85-metre high stack in the middle of the sea) and

About skipper Giovanni Arena “I come from a small fishing village on the Strait of Messina, and since I was a child, I grew up in close contact with the sea and boats. I started having my first experience at sea with a sailing dinghy at the age of 14. A few years later, at the age of 19, I obtained my sailing licence and immediately afterwards the title of Yacht & Monotype sailing instructor, the latter obtained on Lake Garda. Here I had the opportunity to work for a couple of seasons in a sailing school as an instructor, interspersed with skippering experience in Italy and Greece.”

Follow Giovanni on Instagram @vita_da_barca

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SAILING DIFFICULTIES

Southern Italy/Sicily may require some sailing experience: the level of sailing difficulty ranges from easy to medium depending on where you are and what period of the year you pick.

BEST TIME TO TRAVEL

April to October.

ANCHORING

Many harbours are well equipped for sailors, but not all. Buoys can be often found but worth checking before arrival. In Malta, mooring is possible on some marinas. Always worth checking before.

HARBOUR FACILITIES

Facilities for all types of boats are generally good. There are sufficient harbours on the coast of southern Italy and Sicily, grocery shops are easy to find. The marinas on Malta offer water and shore power.

PRICES

Southern Italy/Sicily: Beer: 3 euros, cappuccino: 2.50 euros, local dishes: from 10 to 15 euros; Malta: beer: 5 euros, espresso: 2 euros, local dishes: from 8 to 15 euros.

GETTING THERE

Southern Italy/Sicily best via Palermo/Catania or Naples airports.

For Malta, via Malta Airport

LANGUAGES SPOKEN Italian and English.

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