der from the kitchen of chef schroe
Gri lle d Po co no Tro ut & Cu cu mb er Perhaps the most unusual heirloom variety, and a recent arrival on the Philly local food scene. is the Mexican Sour Gherkin. At maturity, these cucumbers are about the size of grapes, and their light and dark green stripes make them resemble tiny watermelons. Mountz discovered them at a street festival in Kennett Square. “A Mexican family from Oaxaca had a stand set up, and they were selling fish tacos. I bit into one and this little thing came out — it scared me the first time I bit into it.” Mountz searched for the seeds and fell in love. The next year, he planted 1,000 of the climbing plants. He can’t even pick them all once the crop reaches full production. Look for them this year in green paper half-pints and, if you can manage to get them home without finishing the box, mix up a quick brine. Pickled, the tiny cukes make a perfect garnish for a Bluecoat gin martini (recipe at www.gridphilly.com).
for The cook
At a time of year when even the most gastronomicallyinclined among us are loath to turn on the stove, cucumbers handily serve as the basis for refreshing meals. The fruit—which hails originally from India—is extremely adaptable. They provide juicy crunch alongside the sweetness of tomatoes, briny olives and feta in a Greek salad. Pureed with avocado and chilled, they yield a refreshing soup or green smoothie. They’re a natural sliced and served with hummus, or mixed into yogurt with herbs for a quick raita or tzatziki. Their juice, paired with melon and mint, makes a refreshing agua fresca (recipe at www. gridphilly.com). With little more effort than a splash of vinegar, a bit of salt and a pinch of sugar, cucumbers go from a whole ingredient to a crunchy, satisfying lunch. Scott Schroeder, Chef of the South Philly Taproom and American Sardine Bar, developed the following recipe (a Grid exclusive!), which plays a simple Greek yogurt and lemon dressing off of the nubbly, satisfying crunch of cucumbers with red onion, cherry tomato, mint, and watercress. Add simply grilled trout—from the Poconos if you can find or catch it—and you have a seasonal, satisfying meal that comes together in moments. American Sardine Bar, 1800 Federal St americansardinebar.com South Philly Taproom, 1509 Mifflin St southphillytaproom.com
Sa lad
(Serves 2)
to high heat. Preheat a gas or charcoal grill bowl of ll sma a in soak and n onio Slice le the cold water to mellow the flavor. Whi r, halve mbe cucu slice and wash s, onion soak s (or rcres wate tear or quarter tomatoes, and l. bow large a into mint and ) purslane l with the Drain onion and add to the bow s with table vege the on Seas nts. edie other ingr g. salt and black pepper to your likin juice to the Add Greek yogurt and lemon drizzle of rous vegetables, along with a gene . bine com to Toss oil. olive n extra virgi the skin When the grill is hot, season both salt with t trou the of side flesh the side and the trout and pepper. In one motion, place w the skin-side-down on the hot grill. Allo out moving julienned trout to grill skin-side-down, with Just before whole trout, filleted 2 it, until the fish turns 95% opaque. the flesh n onto t lemo trou one juice of it cooks through, flip the nds. black pepper seco few a just side for with salad salt Remove the trout to a plate, top virgin extra with lemon wedges plate le who the le and drizz olive oil. Serve with lemon wedges.
slicing cucumber, 9-10,” sliced thin 20 cherry tomatoes, halved or quartered 1/4 small red onion, thinly sliced and soaked in cold water 2-3 handfuls watercress or purslane, washed and with tough stems removed 1/4 cup Greek-style yogurt 2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 20 mint leaves, torn or
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for The pantry cucumbers are a staple of summer gardens and farmers markets. They are best used within a day or two of purchase or picking, and hold better on your countertop than in the fridge. To make a quick pickle, submerge sliced cucumbers in rice wine vinegar seasoned with garlic, green onions and mint. For longer-term preservation, Kirby cucumbers can be cut into spears and packed in jars with a brine of one part vinegar and one part water, with one tablespoon salt for each cup of vinegar. Add garlic and dill to taste. If pickles aren’t your thing, try gazpacho or chilled cucumber soup. —Marisa McClellan
What to look for Though almost any vegetable can be pickled, cukes are kings, whether you’re pressure-canning pickles for winter storage or just mixing a quick batch to enjoy in the next few days. These varieties have been bred for dense flesh, small seeds and thin skins, which stand up much better to a vinegar and salt bath than slicing cucumbers, which can become leathery or mushy.
Learn more about food preservation at foodinjars.com
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