rawr “Better coverage than Janet Jackson�
More breakfast bang, pg. 4 Going under the knife, pg. 6 Giving blood saving lives, pg. 8
February 10, 2012 cover art by alex aguirre
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your art in rawr illustration photography mixed media paintings sculptures rawr is an alternative weekly publication covering art, culture, campus life and entertainment. We are accepting art submissions each week for the cover. All forms of art will be accepted.
your writing in rawr short fiction poetry non-fiction we are accepting all forms of creativity for an artists’ corner. Email: arg-arts@uidaho.edu
horoscopes chloe rambo | rawr
Aquarius 1/20 – 2/18 If you’re really not a morning person, simply remember one thing: Coffee before chemistry. Try to get a bit of caffeine before turning on the Bunsen burner. Please. Pisces 2/19 - 3/20 Contrary to what some “fashionable” people think, the color black does indeed go with brown. Uh, hello? Just think of chocolate covered Oreos – perfection. Aries 3/21 – 4/19 Wash your hands next time. Germs spread incredibly fast, just sayin’. Taurus 4/20 - 5/20 A goldfish may be a great pet for a college student, but you
still have to feed it. Help a fish our and stop being so stingy with the food flakes. Gemini 5/21 - 6/20 The day you put your winter boots in the back of the closet is the same day 2 feet of powderfy white will fall upon Moscow’s campus. Migh as well leave the boots out, you’ll probably need them again. Cancer 6/21 - 7/22 It’s time you start capitalizing on your cool talent of making jungle animal noises. Seriously, start a blog. Leo 7/23 - 8/22 When was the last time you gave someone a hug? Gals, give your best friend a big ol’ bear hug. Guys, feel free to either hug it out with your fellows or make them a PB&J sandwich. Same thing.
mix tape happy time
molly spencer | rawr
molly spencer rawr
If the recent weather has your feeling down, here’s a compilation of songs that should put a smile on your face.
“Send me on my way” Rusted Root It’s the happiest song in the world. “Send me on my way” has been featured in classics like “Matilda” and “Ice Age.” I dare you to listen without smiling. Plus, Rusted Root is playing at the Knitting Factory on April 1st in Spokane. “Sing what you want” Kotchy (Rusko remix) An up-and-coming artist with a different take on style. Guaranteed to make you smile.
“Touch of gray” Grateful Dead This song is about being above what gets you down. If you need a pick-me-up, here’s an original to ensure happiness. “Levels” Avicii One of the top songs on the radio, with a plethora of remixes already available. If this song doesn’t make you want to dance, I advise you see Student Health immediately. “Once in a lifetime” Talking Heads Talking Heads is quite possibly one of the most eccentric
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Virgo 8/23 - 9/22 Tie your shoes. If you’re wearing sandals right now, there are only two words for you: It’s February. Libra 9/23 - 10/22 Listening to Skrillex-style dubstep is cool, but constantly dancing to the tunes like a synthe-fueled robot isn’t. Tone it down. Scorpio 10/23 - 11/21 Seeing sparks fly and your life flash before your eyes will teach you to stop putting whole cans of Spaghetti-Os in the microwave. Use a bowl. Sagittarius 11/22 – 12/21 Wearing Bermuda shorts to class isn’t going to make winter end sooner, but don’t stop. Everyone needs something to laugh at. Capricorn 12/22 – 1/19 You bought that backpack because it could hold your books, Skyrim setup and an entire box of Chips Ahoy. A step in the right direction.
more information Listen to Molly Spencer and Elizabeth Rudd discuss this week’s Mix Tape at uiargonaut.com
bands of all time. All of their songs bring smiles. “Empathy” Crystal Castles My dog was bobbing her head to this song seven seconds in. “Great Day” Madvillain “Looks like it’s gonna be a great day today to get some fresh air like a stray on a straightaway.” It’s a collaboration of Madviallain and MF Doom, two hip-hop artists with vast discographies.
“D’yer Mak’er” Led Zeppelin A classic hit from a classic band. Sean Kingston remixed this song in 2007. Personally, I prefer the 1972 version. “Hours” Tycho One of my newfound favorites, this is a song I can groove to any place, any time. “Night Falls” Booka Shade Good for doing homework to, waking up to, driving to. Booka Shade keeps you moving.
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Relics of the road The glory of college cars jared montgomery rawr Stained fabric seats, strange noises from under the hood and windows that derail themselves halfway down the track are facts of life for many college drivers. These problems plague vehicles with only 10 or 15 years on the clock, but a handful of University of Idaho students soldier on with cars much older than that. Maintaining a car that pre-dates the Reagan administration can be laborintensive, but Andrew Jacobs, recent UI graduate, doesn’t seem to mind. “It’s got a lot of character to it,” Jacobs said. “The older (cars) aren’t as touchy. You actually have to put some force behind it. Every time I’m in a new car, I almost take out what’s in front of me.” Jacobs drives a 1980 Mercedes-Benz 300SD Turbodiesel. This baby blue beast sports faded paint and still-shining chrome bumpers. It’s a large car, but its diesel engine (known for efficiency) manages decent fuel mileage. “I can — on cross-country, open high-
zach edwards | rawr Biology major Dora Cohen leans on her 1986 Saab 900 “Lady Baltimore.” Though her car has seen more than 25 years of service, she said “it has a lot of personality.”
way — get pretty close to 34 miles per gallon,” Jacobs said. Of course, a 32-year-old vehicle is not without its quirks. “The defroster takes half an hour to warm up,” Jacobs said. “The windows don’t roll down anymore. In fact, I had to fasten one of the windows in place. Sometimes it doesn’t start in the cold, although it has to be really cold. But nothing makes it un-driveable.” For all of these peculiarities, Jacobs said he is attached to the car. He related his experience to “Star Wars.” “It feels like you’re driving a boat, because it’s just huge,” he said. “Growing up, I never understood the whole fascination with the “Millennium Falcon,” but my car is a lot like that.” UI student Dora Cohen drives a 1986 Saab 900 that has seen more than 25 years of use. “I’ve been driving it for three years,” Cohen said. “Its name is Lady Baltimore. It has a lot of personality and my mom drove it my whole life, so I kind of grew up in the back of that car.” Just as with Jacobs’ Mercedes, Cohen said “Lady Baltimore” has some interesting issues.
“Nothing electrical works in the dashboard. The odometer just started working again — it froze for a few months,” she said. “It does have a new radio, though.” Most owners of aging cars live in a state of concern that something will go wrong. Everyday driving can turn into a gamble. “It’s fairly reliable,” Cohen said. “I worry about it sometimes because it makes noises that kind of freak me out, but I think it has proven itself to be reliable, especially in the last year. I get it looked at once a year, and it’s been running pretty well.” Overall, Cohen said she isn’t bothered that her car isn’t so new. “I like driving the older car because not many people have it,” Cohen said. “It’s more unique. I can definitely recognize my car.” Although the car is a Saab, many people on the street mistake it for a more common, boxy, old car. “I get lots of people who are like, ‘Oh, I love your Volvo,’” Cohen said. Cohen said “Lady” averages about 25 miles per gallon, which is the same as UI junior Ethan Kimberling
said he gets in his 1986 Mazda 626. Kimberling said the old sedan definitely has some snags. “The interior is pretty bad. The turn signals don’t work — just a bunch of the small problems that you typically associate with an older car,” Kimberling said. Kimberling said he’s had some bittersweet times with his Mazda. “The first year — being in high school, being able to drive around, it’s liberating,” Kimberling said. “It definitely has the qualities of a beater that are kind of endearing. The first year that I had it, the wheels were a little bit rusted, so the tires wouldn’t seal properly. I probably had to change flats on it about15 to 20 times. I’ve had it for so long, and it always starts up. It runs well for what it is.” Common among these three students is an undeniable affection for their old automobiles. While gleaming, new models can be enticing, there’s something to be said for the uniqueness and character of a car that has seen more years than its driver.
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for your breakfast
zach edwards | rawr
chloe rambo rawr University of Idaho sophomore English and general studies major Lindsey Nelson has gotten breakfast from a few of the various nooks on campus. “On days that I don’t have to work right after school (my boyfriend and I) go to the shop that’s in the Student Union Building, Joe’s Cafe,” Nelson said. “I get a scone and he usually gets a donut.” Many consider breakfast the “most important meal of the day,” yet busy university students often skip it. Fear of running late for morning classes is a leading cause of skipping breakfast. “If I left late I would ... just skip breakfast,” Nelson said. “I have two classes and then I have an hour break for lunch, so if I’m running late ... I just eat breakfast on my break.” Many students grab a hot cup of coffee on campus to take to class with them, especially if morning routines don’t allow time for coffee at home. “I have coffee at least once a day,” Nelson said. “I usually go up to the Administration (building), to Sister’s Brew.” As students’ schedules fill with classes, homework and extra-curricular activities, time to cook and prepare meals because can become scarce. Morn-
ing meal planning can be exceptionally hard after late nights spent studying or with friends. “There are a lot of misconceptions about eating breakfast,” said Samantha Ramsay, assistant professor and director coordinated program in dietetics. “A lack of knowledge and the constraints of our society, put those all together and breakfast somehow gets skipped.” If eating healthier was one of your New Year’s resolutions, getting a balanced breakfast every day is a great place to start. “Research has shown that individuals who were recognized as ‘breakfast-eaters’ not only improved cognitive capacity, but also had increased productivity and more energy,” Ramsay said. Even if you’re trying to drop a few pounds, breakfast isn’t the bad guy. “Many think that eating breakfast will increase their weight,” Ramsay said. “So they skip it as a means to restrict their caloric intake. That’s not recommended.” Not knowing what to prepare is a main reason breakfast is the most often skipped meal, Ramsay said. A perfect breakfast contains a healthful blend of carbohydrates and protein, two essential types of nutrients that will fuel your brain and body correctly until lunchtime comes around. “Everyone has a different approach to
their morning,” Ramsay said. “Getting a carbohydrate base (is important). Some sort of oatmeal, toast or cereal.” Carbohydrates, or carbs, can be found in rice, pasta, nuts and various fruits and vegetables. Filled with starchy energy sources, carbohydrates are an especially important resource for student-athletes, Ramsay said. A former collegiate volleyball player, Ramsay initially became interested in studying nutrition after investigating how various foods affected her performance. “Student-athletes definitely need more carbs to optimize their energy source,” Ramsay said. “Restricting carbohydrates can subsequently cause fatigue over the long term ... (but) it is beneficial to have some kind of protein source also.” Protein is another important player when it comes to keeping your body strong. Protein is essential to cell growth, immune system health and proper muscle repair. But you don’t have to sit down to a steak dinner every night to fulfill your protein quota. Peanut butter, eggs, even flavored Greek yogurt and milk are all simple ways to fuel up. “If you have more time you can make eggs and toast, peanut butter and toast, even milk and toast,” Ramsay said. Focusing on getting carbs (and) ensuring there’s a protein source as well,
more information Keep an eye on the rawr Facebook page for some delicious and easy breakfast recipes. she said, will give you the most bang for your breakfast. Finding a do-able morning schedule can be as difficult as finding the perfect beverage concoction from Starbucks. Senior art student Chris Miotke prefers to eat a larger lunch, rather than eating in the morning. “It’s not that I don’t like breakfast,” Miotke said. “I just don’t like eating when I wake up. I usually have a (nauseous) feeling in my stomach. That’s why I don’t like it.” While not all students like to eat before class, many enjoy a brunch-style breakfast similar to what is considered “diner-fare.” “Give me three or four hours … and I’ll have a huge (breakfast), but that’s more around lunch time,” Miotke said. “If I had a huge stomach, my perfect breakfast would be eggs over medium, bacon, sausage, toast of course and maybe some pancakes ... and lots of juice.” No matter what time breakfast comes around, morning, noon or night — it’s one of the most valuable meals of the day.
Gleeful for ‘Glee’ isla brazzil rawr Gleeks. They’re hidden in every enclave of the University of Idaho. Your neighbor, your professor, the cashier in the Idaho Commons — even you could be a fan of Fox’s hit series “Glee.” Glee is a musical comedydrama TV series that focuses on a high school glee club, called , New Directions, competing on the show choir competition circuit. The show deals with relationships, sexuality and social issues, while maintaining a Broadway feel. UI student Micaela Iveson said the Glee phenomenon is “mainstream nerdy.” “I think that it’s really well written and really funny and witty,” Iveson said. “I like how quirky the characters are.” Many despise the show while some get completely hooked. “I probably watched it a month straight last month,” junior Melissa Drew said. “It’s not just some kids show. They drink, they party. It’s … actually super funny.” Drew said “Glee” is definitely in her top 10, and 10 million times better than any “High School Musical” spinoff. From Neil Patrick Harris to Jennifer Lopez, celebrities are lining up for a chance to
appear in an episode. Even President Obama is trying to get in on the action by inviting the cast to perform at the White House. Natalie Brodie said her favorite “Glee” episode features Ke$ha, even though she said she doesn’t watch the show all that much. “It’s about alcohol abuse in the high school, but it’s really funny,” Brodie said. “The cast gets drunk before performing a skit about the dangers of drinking and the audience thinks they are just acting.” Iveson said Rachel Berry, played by Lea Michele, is her favorite character. Although students like Drew admit to having no theater background, others, like Iveson, are interested in the show because of their love for music and theater. “Glee” may be considered a comedy, but it’s also known for being its musical numbers. Some celebrities have publicly criticized “Glee,” including Slash, Kings of Leon, and Miley Cyrus. Slash embargoed the use of songs by “Glee,” which he calls “worse than ‘Grease.’” Co-writer Ryan Murphy’s ire was raised again when the band Kings Of Leon publically spurned his request to cover their music on the show. Pop star Miley Cyrus said
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Photo courtesy of freecelebritygraphics.com
see the show... Watch all new episodes of “Glee” at fox.com/glee.
Verde Great Finds...
New Inspirations for the Artful Soul! she was happy to let “Glee” cover her song but when asked if she’s a fan herself said, “Honestly, musicals? I just can’t. What if this was real life and I was just walking down the street on Rodeo Drive and all of a sudden I just burst into song about how much I love shoes?” Students like Marissa (Missy) Hornby, however, enjoy “Glee” for this very reason. “I wish that students could break out in song at University of Idaho,” Hornby said. Hornby said she watches “Glee” because it’s light, fun and enjoyable, but the musical aspect gets her into the show. On UI’s campus, the “Glee” phenomenon is still alive.
Great Finds for Valentine’s Day
Simple, fun (no corn) Cards Candles in Red Hobnail Glass Goblets Heart-shaped Bird Seed Cakes Silk Hearts and Boxes embellished with Pearl and Crystals Living Plants in Beautiful Red Pots Palouse Mall near Macy’s
208-882-1126
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Saving face Is plastic surgery what it seems? kristen koester-smith rawr Cosmetic plastic surgeries make headlines in America. They question: Has Sarah Palin had a boob job? Is Kim Kardashian’s butt real? Did Heidi Montag destroy her natural beauty? These aren’t just tabloid stories — legitimate news organizations report on some of these topics. Constant discussion about cosmetic surgery often overshadows reconstructive surgeries. University of Idaho senior Logan Bushnell is majoring in biology and plans to become a plastic surgeon to help people who need reconstructive surgery. “I like the thought of helping people especially if they have problems they weren’t born with or they were accustomed to by an accident or a fire,” Bushnell said. “There is not a lot of money in that side of plastic surgery because a lot of times you do it for free.” Bushnell said he wouldn’t refuse to do cosmetic procedures, but believes God made people the way they are and they should embrace the way they look naturally. “In a sense (cosmetic surgery) is overused,” Bushnell said. “Because any time anyone sees a flaw in their body they like to go right to the doctor and get a quick fix instead of actually working for something. I feel like plastic surgery should be the last resort to fixing a problem.” Elizabeth Ropski, UI senior in English, said although she would never want to have anything “done,” personal preference directs how individuals want to look and what they think is
beautiful. She said people should be able to act on feelings and values however they please. “If it will make you feel better that you have huge titties or something, then go ahead and do it,” Ropski said. “I think when it falls in a bad place is when people do it to try to fit an image … that someone else wants them to be.” Although there is some scare involved with any surgery, Ropski said she benefitted from the extra efforts of plastic surgeons when she had cancerous cells removed from her chin. “I had another spot of (cancerous cells) on my back, and I just went to a general surgeon. If I had that on my face I would look like scar face or something, it’s not very pretty. But this one I was totally pleased with,” Ropski said. Dr. Steven Ozeran, a plastic surgeon based out of Lewiston, said he sees many patients who need cancerous skin cells removed. He has seen people with merkel cells, an aggressive type of skin cancer, in which case he said he needs to be direct about the type of treatment required. “People don’t want you to sugar coat it,” Ozeran said. “When people ask me what I would do I just say ‘Look, this is what needs to be done.’” Ozeran said while the media has a part in pressuring people to have cosmetic procedures and surgeries done, he believes many people go under the knife to stay competitive in the workplace. Employers hire people who look young and energetic, Ozeran said, and people are responding to this economic pressure. “One of the things that we see is not that people are spending
lots and lots more money, but more people are spending some money … just to fix a couple of things or enhance a couple of things just to make them more marketable,” Ozeran said. He said patients who come in for cosmetic procedures are often some of the most grateful. “When I first came into town I thought it was crazy to do cosmetic surgery, in the sense that I wasn’t ‘helping people.’ But they’re so grateful,” Ozeran said. “I’ll have women patients who had breast augmentations tell me how happy they are when they wake up to find something there that wasn’t before. It’s just amazing how life-altering that can be for them.” Ozeran said of his 400 to 500 procedures a year, he sees the young and old, men and women, with problems ranging from the face to hands and feet. One of the procedures Ozeran said he is most proud of was when a man had cut his thumb off with a table saw. The man was so embarrassed he told the doctors to throw the thumb away and stitch him up. Ozeran thought he could save the thumb, so he convinced the man to let him try to put it back on. “I had an assistant help me for three and a half hours. We were able to put the thumb back on and repair the blood vessels and the veins and fix the arteries and the bones,” Ozeran said. “The thumb survived — it did great.” Ozeran said he loves the complexity of his work. He described difficult procedures in which he had to take muscle tissue from the back and move it to a leg, requiring extensive work with veins and arteries.
“It’s the diversity in what you do, but it’s also taking a complicated problem, oftentimes one someone else has been struggling with and has no idea how to put it together,” Ozeran said. “The patients themselves are incredibly grateful. It’s just really rewarding to do that for someone.” Bushnell said that is something about doing reconstructive surgery that he looks forward to. “I would just like to bring joy to that kind of person, making them happy again,” Bushnell said. “Seeing their relief that it’s not going to ruin them for the rest of their life.” Satisfying patients is rewarding for reconstructive surgeons, but Ozeran said people often have unrealistic expectations of what doctors can do. He said patients think he can change something without leaving a scar. Ozeran said the happiest patients are those who have lower expectations. Medical scenarios have changed, Ozeran said, because doctors used to tell people what they needed and what surgeries they would perform. Now, people listen to doctors and make informed decisions for themselves. He also said people need to spend time and money making sure procedures are performed by able doctors who will act responsibly. “I think that sometimes people look at the price and recovery, and if something sounds too good to be true it probably is,” Ozeran said. “I’ve seen multiple complications from people doing something they probably should not have been doing.”
photo illustrations by alex aguirre
Top Left: Senior in early childhood special education Catie Cotmel illustrates what changes might be made to her body Monday. Kotmel said she believes people should love themselves and avoid listening to the skewed standards society has in place for beauty. Top Right: Moscow resident and local artist Colleen Sullivan illustrates what changes might be made to her body, based on societal standards and pressures. Sullivan said that her body and weight has changed and fluctuated her whole life, which used to be a source of frustration.
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Giving blood, saving lives joanna wilson rawr Henry Champlin averted his eyes as the nurse slid a needle into the purple line of his vein. “I’ve never looked, I just don’t really want to,” Champlin said. A line of dark red slid through the vinyl loops in the plastic tube and into the blood donation bag. He glanced back at the tubing. “I do like seeing the blood go swoosh, swoosh — snake through it like a straw,” he said. The nurse taped the tube in place and directed him to continue squeezing the ball in his hand to keep the blood flowing through his arm and into the tube. “If you feel any different than you do right this moment, you let me know right away, OK?” she said. Champlin, University of Idaho sophomore in physical education, donated blood for the first time during a high school blood drive. “The big thing was ‘how much will the needle hurt?’” he said. “But I was also wondering how much blood I’ll give, and how I’ll feel afterwards.” The needle feels like a hard pinch, he said and once it’s in he doesn’t feel it at all. “On a scale of one to 10, it’s like a three, I would say,” he said of the initial pain. Champlin said he made his appointment for the second day of the drive to avoid a PE class, because donating leaves him feeling tired. “Just sleepy, just a little tired,” he said. “But usually, I have some food and have some sugar, and you’ll be fine.” Champlin said he ate the baked potato and chili earlier
that day which packed his blood with nutrients in preparation to lose one of his 10 to 12 pints. After checking in, he was taken to a medical history booth. Kellee McGee, a nurse with the American Red Cross, said nurses enter the person’s medical history and personal information into a computer. “And we will do a mini physical,” McGee said. “We check their blood pressure, pulse, temperature. We’ll ask them their weight, then take a small sample of blood.” The blood sample is a drop taken by a simple lancet that works like a diabetic’s blood tester. McGee said a nurse inserts the sample into a machine that verifies the donor has the right amount of hemoglobin, the molecular structure in blood cells that carries oxygen to the body. “Then we will step out and they will answer about 50 questions about their personal (health),” McGee said. “Have they traveled outside the U.S.? Have they been in any contact with anyone who’s done drugs or have they done drugs?” Nurses also ask donors about AIDs, tattoos and medications. Champlin said he was intimidated by the booth the first time he donated. “It was asking all these weird questions and I was like ‘I don’t know,’” he said. “Some questions are a little weird, but I understand that they have to ask them.” Finished explaining his medical history, Champlin sat in a reclining mesh chair and squeezed a ball as the nurse, Amanda Peterson, fitted a colorful blood-pressure cuff around his arm.
The vein on the inside of his elbow soon appeared as a dark line under the skin. “It’s the only palpable one that would hold the needle,” Peterson said. “You can go anywhere in this area … you want to have the most voluptuous vein because, you know, it’s got to support that.” She raised the thick needle. It was round and one end was shaped like a shovel, but sharpened, allowing it to slide through the skin. To insure no pathogens are passed from donor to donor, the ARC never reuses a needle, McGee said. “It’s definitely for a good cause,” Peterson said. “Um hum, three lives or some thing,” Champlin answered. “It helps other people, and it’s really easy to do. It doesn’t hurt that bad, doesn’t take too long.” As the bag filled with blood, Peterson watched Champlin for a reaction. “Most reactions that you see are light-headed and dizziness,” she said. “…Pale skin, sweaty and then there’s sometimes — .” “I’ve seen people pass out,” Champlin said. “People have become unconscious for a short period of time,” Peterson said. Reactions happen because the donor has not eaten properly, had enough fluids or simply from the shock of losing blood. “Sometimes it’s just because they’re scared,” McGee said. “And psyching yourself out,” Peterson said. Champlin said the point where the needle entered his skin felt warm, but not painful. “I definitely know something’s in there, but it’s not uncomfortable,” he said.
ilya pinchuk | rawr
Jessica Brown squeezs a plush toy to stimulate blood flow as she gives blood Tuesday, Feb. 7 in the Idaho Commons. The Inland Northwest Blood Center and the American Red Cross visit campus twice a month to gather blood from donors, which then gets distributed to hospitals across Idaho. A HemoFlow machine tracked how much blood slid through the tube. “So when it gets to 470 it automatically shuts off and keeps the blood so we can’t take anymore,” Peterson said. The machine beeped. “What was my time?” Champlin asked. “I’ll be able to tell you at the end here,” Peterson said. “What’s the fastest time you’ve ever seen?” he asked. “I was three minutes and two seconds,” Peterson said. “And it was scary. If it is anything under three, it is a possible arterial bleed puncture. You don’t want those, because they can really hurt the donor.” After filling several small
test tubes, Peterson pressed a square of gauze to the entry point, and slid the needle out. “Test his blood to make sure it is safe to give to a recipient,” she said. The blood is tested for sexually transmitted diseases, hepatitis, West Nile Virus, blood type and blood count, McGee said. When he stood up and headed for the cookie table, Champlin mostly felt tired. “Cold more then anything,” he said. “I feel like I’m in good enough shape that I can handle all of this.” He bit into a cookie. “This is a good part,” he said. “You get cookies and stuff.”
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The rise and fall of fashion icons nicole lichtenberg rawr What do ponchos, slip dresses and fingerless gloves have in common? While they are all foolish fashion choices today, at one point (the ’80s and ’90s) they were all the rage. Pieces of novel concept clothing that are all-consumingly popular one day and a faux pas the next are referred to as fads. University of Idaho clothing, textiles and design major Jasmyn Bennett said trends are related to fads. “A fashion trend is something that only stays for a season,” Bennett said.“A fad is a lot quicker than a trend. Silly Bandz are a fad. The color red is a trend.” Outlasting both fads and trends are classics. Bennett said a classic clothing item, such as a pencil skirt or jeans, is universally flattering and has “simple, clean lines.” Classic items create a stable wardrobe basis, and can save money over time. “You can mix it in with trendy things so you can keep with the times with buying all new things,” said CTD major Sarafina Harney. According to CTD instructor Erika Iiams, fads last less than a season, trends about a season and classics do not go out of style, though they may be slightly more popular some seasons than others. Classic items feature simpler styles and less extreme changes in cool factor, while more trendy or fad-following items are subject to more extreme changes in coolness. Trends and the Economy Fashion trends are heavily influenced by the economy. “When times are good, fashion gets really fun … and extravagant,” Iiams said. “Think of the ’20s and the flapper girls, and the ’80s — those are two good examples of exuberant fashion that was really fun.” Iiams said when the times are tough, flashy colors go away. “When times are bad, like the ’90s ... the colors are more subdued, the styling is more
subdued and classic because you are going to want your clothes to last,” Iiams said. “You don’t want them to come in and out of style really quickly.” Iiams said the decrease in flamboyance does not only affect middle and lower classes. “When times are bad, it’s not considered good form for conspicuous consumption, so even people who do have money want to tone down the look,” Iiams said. Trends and Technology Shifts in fashion are often the result of technological innovation. One example of this, said Iiams, is the advent of the miniskirt in the ’60s. Prior to the ’60s, women wore pantyhose with garter belts. When pantyhose became available with built in waistbands, hemlines rose to a height that was previously impossible. Innovations affecting fashion today are often environmentand animal-friendly. Textile technology has made it possible to create inexpensive, realistic fur and leather imitations, and it is becoming easier to recycle synthetic materials, Iiams said. Additionally, many consumers demand items made of organic cotton because cotton is considered the world’s dirtiest crop — using more pesticides than any other major crop. How they get in your closet Fashion trends and fads find their beginnings with “Fashion Innovators.” Innovators are either in positions of power in the fashion industry or are careful followers of the powers that be. Bennett said they are often celebrities, such as Victoria Beckham, royalty, such as Kate Middleton, or in possession of incredible taste, such as Scott Schuman of The Sartorialist. They influence followers, who propagate the trend until it eventually peaks in popularity and dies out. The same relationship exists between designer goods and mass market products, and fashionistas and blind followers. The more popular the trend, the more readily available it is at lower price points and the higher the likelihood
alex aguirre | rawr
Seniors in clothing, textiles and design Hanna Uhling, left, and Cathrine Holtz, right, pose for a photo Monday outside of the Student Union Building. Uhling describes her style as being girly, fun and vibrant. Holtz said her style is a combination of trendy and classic. that someone on the street is wearing it. Fashion trends are not always Keynesian. “Trends are often from street fashion,” Bennett said. Street fashion allows regular people to make sartorial
change, which has diversified fashion trends. “Because of the influence of street fashion trends don’t really matter,” Bennett said. “Style is more personal.” In today’s climate of diversity and individuality, a trend is
for more photos Visit uiargonaut.com not a mandate from the fashion gods, but an amalgam of one’s personal style and reaction to external influences.
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Healthy lifestyle beats size 0 molly spencer rawr
TV, magazines and websites give people countless images of what their bodies should look like, Sharon Fritz of the Counseling and Testing Center said. She said the media directs members of our society away from interpersonal connection with one’s body. What’s really important — who you are as a person, she said. “It’s more about what you look like and not necessarily what your values are or what you believe,” Fritz said. The question is — how can one feel good about their body and who they are healthily? “How do you feel good about yourself despite the little rolls that you get and the gray hairs that you’re going to get — all those kinds of things,” Fritz said. “And to me that’s the challenge. I think part of it is not looking at those magazines, not watching those shows and not coveting that. But that’s a hard pressure to resist.” She said it’s important not to judge how people by their looks or weight because people are so much more than that. “We do have more control over what kind of person we are, what kind of values, how we treat one another … and to focus on those because that’s who we are and the body is going to change — I can tell you that,” she said. Miles Meason from the CTC said everybody’s different.
“I can only speak from the clients that I’ve worked with. There seems to be a tremendous amount of pressure that young women have on them these days about the way their body should look,” Meason said. “I think a lot of it has to do with the social media.” The media shows images that aren’t necessarily real-life in a lot of ways, Meason said. Even models don’t look the way they do in pictures. “I’m not an expert on the media, but I think they do have a target audience that doesn’t encompass everyone that may be impacted by their advertising,” he said. Heather Gasser, Women’s Center director, said the media is the primary source for impacting body image. “I think we often equate healthy with thin and I think we need to break that apart a little bit,” Gasser said. “When we use that word ‘healthy’ sometimes we put people in a box and say ‘this is what a healthy body is, and this is what a non-healthy body is.’” Gasser said the people we surround ourselves with have an impact. “I think our parents have an impact, our peers certainly have an impact, but we can’t deny the fact that the media representation of women is very white, very thin and it’s hardly realistic,” Gasser said. “This impacts men also. While women become increasingly smaller, men have to become increasingly bigger. For many people,
it’s just not attainable and it’s kind of an endless cycle.” Gasser said she feels nutrition is just half of it. Healthy can mean a lot of different sizes. “How can we create a situation where we can feel like we can accept our body for what it is?” she said. The Women’s Center often refers students to Verna Bergmann, UI’s professional campus dietician. When Bergmann is helping a student find a healthy weight, she refers to a body mass index chart. “If your BMI is less than 18.5 it falls within the underweight range, if your BMI is 30 or higher it falls within the obese range,” Bergmann said. “Obese and overweight describe ranges of weight that are greater than what is considered healthy for a given height, while underweight describes a weight that is lower than what is considered healthy.” But healthy weight isn’t just about a diet, Bergmann said. It’s about a lifestyle that includes long-term challenges like daily eating and exercise habits. “This campus is a great place to work out some of the concerns and challenges in one’s lifestyle about any of those issues of nutrition, exercise, mental health — because there is expertise on campus to help with those individual concerns,” she said.
2.10.12
illustration by jacob smith | rawr
rawr
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Find your fortune
5
3
A crocodile will eat all your french fries.
1. Cut out the fortune teller on the dotted line. 2. Flip it over so that the type is face down.
4. Unfold then fold all four corners to the center.
6. Then again, fold the corners to the middle.
y e
7
8
nk
6
rawr
5. Flip it back over so the folds are face down.
ll o w
You have a lifetime supply of bread and jelly, but NO peanut butter.
4 d re
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pi
rhiannon rinas
3. Fold each corner to the opposite corner.
You now have to survive with a spoon, two mismatched shoes and olives.
All the computer mice have skittered away. You must now type out every single comand.
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1
Remember elementary school? It was all about “eww, boys have cooties,� hopscotch and lollipops. This fortune teller, also known as a cootie catcher or chatterbox, is something that entertained kids during elementary, middle and even high school. Cut it out, grab a friend and enjoy.
7. Fold in half horizontaly and vertically. 8. Insert fingers under the tabs. 9. Pick a color, pick a number and pick a number again.
the argonaut
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2.10.12