Warsaw In Your Pocket City Guide_June-July 2025

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Warsaw

Boats off the beach in Praga, with a view of the Old Town. Photo: Łukasz Kopeć

Welcome to Warsaw

Located on the Vistula River at the very crossroads of Central Europe, Warsaw is the 8th most populous city in the European Union (1.8 million people) and a major cultural, political and economic hub.

The city has had a troubled history ever since King Sigismund III Vasa moved his royal court from Kraków, making Warsaw the new Polish capital in 1569. Pillaged by the Swedes in the 17th century, and occupied by Russia for most of the 19th century, Poland was off the map for 123 years before returning in the aftermath of WWI. The interwar period signalled a golden age for Warsaw, as the city developed on par with other great European capitals.

WWII brought new suffering, however. Occupied by Nazi Germany, Warsaw saw its cultural monuments defiled or stolen, and its Jewish population of 350,000 systematically exterminated. With liberation in sight, the Polish population rose up against their German occupiers in August 1944, only for Soviet forces to look on as the Nazis brutally crushed the Uprising and destroyed the city in reprisal. When the fires were extinguished, 150,000 more civilians were dead and German occupation had merely been traded for Soviet oppression, as Poland was pinned under Moscow’s influence for the next four decades, during which Warsaw was rebuilt in communist fashion, earning a reputation as a charmless city of concrete.

But that was then, this is now. A compelling blend of East and West, past and future, today’s Warsaw is a modern metropolis of complex character and rich rewards for those who get to know it. Gone are the gloomy images of yesteryear as the city restlessly evolves, buzzing with energy and optimism. Whether you’re here to explore trendsetting urban culture or UNESCO treasures, world-class dining or luxury boutiques, you’ll hardly be disappointed by all the modern capital has to offer. Enjoy Warsaw!

Warsaw’s bustling downtown (more on p.30) photo/droneinwarsaw

How to Use This Guide

Warsaw In Your Pocket is designed to provide you with all of the ideas, tools and information you need to explore the city on your own, stay offline as much as possible, and really connect with the city you’re visiting.

Over here at IYP we still believe that the best way to understand the space you’re in is with a map, and the most immersive way to explore it is on foot. As such, our Sightseeing chapter is organised into geographic areas of interest with detailed district maps to help you navigate them. Selfguided district tours include descriptions of all the most important sites, plus local tips on where to eat and drink in each area. There are also intriguing ‘Crossroads’ moments that allow you to be lured towards alternative adventures, either on foot or via public transport.

Throughout the guide, page references are liberally used to lead you to related info on a topic elsewhere in the guide, while QR codes will take you to our website when we feel there’s more to know than can be expressed in print. Each venue listing includes a map coordinate (E-8, for example) that correlates to the city map on p.2-3. If there’s a specific venue you’re searching for, use the Venue Index in the back of the guide to quickly find it, or simply follow our informed suggestions.

Cover Story

The high-end Belvedere restaurant, tucked against the lush backdrop of Łazienki Park. A place for good dining, good events and beautiful views. Photo: DroneInWarsaw

Publisher & Staff

IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com

Circulation

12,000 copies published every 2 months

Warsaw IYP Online

Of course, space in our print guide is a finite resource, but if you don’t find what you’re searching for here, we’re confident you’ll find it on our website. Visit warsaw.inyourpocket.com for more info about the capital, and poland.inyourpocket.com to see just how much of the country we cover.

Here is some extra content we wish we had room for in print this issue:

Warsaw Day Trips

Read through our entire guide, done it all and still looking for more? Of course not, but the surrounding region still offers many sites worth exploring, from national parks to spa towns.

Summer in Warsaw

Ahhh, summer in the city. It's full of life, live music, drinks by the river, bike rides through the streets, walks through the parks, cafe sitting and... well, find the rest of our suggestions here!

Artists of Warsaw

Warsaw is a city with a rich art history -- especially in the 20th century when tons of prolific artists created everything from major fibre sculptures to surrealist oil paintings. Check out our favorites here!

Editor: Anna Merriman

Sales Consultant: Jarek Śliwiński (+48) 606 749 643

Marketing: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 728 879 494

Research: Karolina Adamik

Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman

Copyright Notice

All content copyright IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o Sp.k. and its partners, unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written consent from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.

Summer on the Vistula

When the weather’s warm in Warsaw, the entire city gravitates towards the water. Even though Warsaw couldn’t be any more landlocked (being right in the middle of Poland and all), the city has done an excellent job of playing up its strengths, specifically that lovely waterfront!

That means the Vistula River - the long banks of which comprise the city’s unofficial ‘19th district’ and provide a bounty of places to relax and explore, including sandy beaches, green forests, sports clubs, cycling paths, and dozens of restaurants, bars and nightclubs.

Perhaps the most characteristic thing about Warsaw’s riverside is the striking dichotomy between its left and right banks. While the left bank is more sanitised, developed and urbane, the right bank has been left largely untouched and resembles a wooded nature preserve. Both have plenty to offer in terms of relaxation, exercise and entertainment, and here we list the highlights. Whether you’re looking for an escape from the noise and crowds of the capital, or the most happening party in town - you’ll find it on the riverside!

Grab a Bike

There are plenty of chances for bike rentals in Warsaw – specifically thanks to the Veturilo bike system which allows you to rent a bike for a day or even just a few hours as you ride around the city. There are plenty of places to go, of course, but we really recommend riding the banks.

If you want to see If you want to see some riverside sights then head straight down to the Vistula Boulevards; from here, you can choose to head north to forest trails in Młociny Forest, or head south, where the path stretches on for a long time and there’s plenty of gorgeous sun and water views to take in.

As we said, the city’s west-bank riverfront has long been developed by authorities with the eastside

With views over the city and lots of spaces to lounge in the sand, the east side of the Vistula is one of the best places in Warsaw.

traditionally remaining wild. With a mix of dirt and paved trails, avid bikers can travel from as far south as the Siekierkowski bridge, going further south outside Warsaw to towns like Konstancin; or, with a spin of the compass, to Warsaw’s northern-most Maria Skłodowska Curie bridge, and then beyond city limits to see a palace in the town of Jabłonna, or (for the true bike freaks amongst you) even as far north as Modlin Fort in the town of Nowy Dwór Mazowiecki. Regardless of where you choose to go, there are plenty of chill out spots, such as official beaches, to the more wild shoreline areas, just to stop, relax, and glance at the city views from afar.

Hop on a River Ferry

If you really want to explore the breadth of Warsaw’s waterfront, the best way to do it is by getting on a bicycle, but you can also take advantage of the city’s free ferry service, which provides a more scenic way to get across the river and hit the beach. These crossings are incredibly popular and limited space often means waiting in queues to board what would otherwise be a quick 5min trip. There are 3 routes:

• The Słonka, which goes from Cypel Czerniakowski to Saska Kępa beach,

• The Pliszka, which goes from the Poniatowski Bridge waterfront on the west side to the National Stadium beach on the east,

• The Wilga, which goes from Podzamcze Fountains to the Zoo.

Ferries run daily in July & August, weekends and holidays only in June & Sept.

Not only that, but for a small price, you can actually take a ferry up the river three hours to the nearby, popular Zegrze reservoir for more lounging and water fun (that’s a reservoir you can actually swim in).

Lounging on the Left (West) Bank

The main gateway to the river for most Varsovians is the M2 Metro stop ‘Centrum Nauki Kopernik,’ which deposits you right on the water (I-6). Certainly the busiest and most developed section of the river, there are many attractions that make this area essential for taking a stroll, not least of which are all the other people about.

Head north from the Metro to see the Warsaw Mermaid sculptures, the Copernicus Science Centre, Museum on the Vistula and University Rooftop Gardens (see p.54 for all of these places) The areas between all of these cultural sites are filled with parks, gardens and public spaces that are a pleasure to spend time in. There are plenty of benches and

The west side of the river is full of activities and options!

A Few Guidelines

Alcohol: When it comes to drinking in public, the river is your friend. Basically you can consume your own alcohol anywhere along the west side of the river without fear of a fine, just please clean up after yourself.

Swimming: Although the temptation is ever present, we don’t recommend getting in the water. It is neither safe, nor sanitary. Fires & Grills: Most beaches in Warsaw have designated grill areas, so if you want to build a fire, go for it, just keep it contained to the designated places.

stairs to relax on, and of course numerous cafes, bars, restaurants, ice cream stands, food trucks and river barges where you can find great food and refreshments. In the evening check out Przystań Nowa Fala - a popular two-level riverbarge with food, drinks and DJ parties parked right in front of the museum (H-5), or simply listen to the music and feel the vibes from the boulevard. If you like that, there’s plenty more options for you - in fact, all summer you’ll find tons of barges selling food and alcohol and playing music all along the river

Make like a true Varsovian and grab a drink from one of the barges or stalls that line this side of the river (or from a nearby Żabka) and relax on the steps in the evening –you’ll find tons of other people doing the same.

Płyta Desantu Beach

About 2km south of Copernicus Science Centre you’ll find this small left-bank beach near Śmigłego-Rydza Park. This area feels like a mini summer festival, with bars and music and lots of lounging opportunities. By day, chill out on the sand, have a grill, hit up the food trucks, rent a kayak or catch the ferry over to Saska Kępa. In the evenings, the crowds (and mosquitos) start to pick up and concerts, films and even theatre shows are common.

Hanging Out on the Right (East) Bank

Saska Kępa beach is a great place to start on the east side. This small, wild, natural beach is a good option if you just want to escape urbanity, though it can still be quite popular on hot days. Infrastructure is limited to a few grill areas, swings and a neglected playground, though there is a place to rent kayaks nearby. The free ferry goes directly here, making it easy to get to.QK-8/9.

is a unique restaurant in the heart of Warsaw, created by SPOMLEK - the Polish Dairy. Welcome to a culinary journey with the best Polish long maturing cheeses. Discover their rich taste in exquisite dishes, original desserts and unique combinations that will delight every gourmet!

BursztyNova Restaurant Warsaw, Królewska 16 (+48) 519 310 110

Poniatówka Beach

Warsaw’s largest and most popular beach, located right under the National Stadium, with free ferry service straight onto the sand from Powiśle. As such you’ll find quite a bit of infrastructure at this one, including food, bars, ice cream, a playground, designated barbecue areas, and more. This is the casual cousin of the other beaches here and it’s wellworth a visit if you just want to place a blanket down and stare at the skyline with some friends and a good bite of food. I.e. we love it for its picnic abilities. A good choice if you want to people-watch, sunbathe or DIY party with the locals after sunset.QJ-7.

Praga Beach & La Playa

Known as the ‘Rusałka Beach,’ ‘Praga District Beach,’ ‘Zoo Beach’ or even ‘the beach at La Playa’ thanks to the famous riverside fun club behind it, this sandy pitch across from the Old Town and metres from the zoo is more of a wild beach, but does have designated areas for grilling and wicker gazebos. Bring the kids after a trip to the zoo (p.66), or rage hard at La Playa (p.20) and come down to the water for a breather. The daytime views of the Old Town are great, but at night…just, wow. Nearby is a playground and also a ropes park with courses for kids and adults. Probably the most celebrated beach club in the capital.

Find plenty of boats and lounging spots on both sides of the river

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ESTELL CLINICS IN WARSAW

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UL. BURAKOWSKA 14 01-066 WARSZAWA

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ESTELL KLIF UL. OKOPOWA 58/72 01-042 WARSZAWA

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ESTELL SENATOR UL. BIELAŃSKA 12 00-085 WARSZAWA

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History Meets City Life:

Celebrating 5 Years of Elektrownia Powiśle

Located in the heart of Powiśle, the striking, hyper trendy space known as Elektrownia Powiśle may trace its roots back to the early 20th century. But it’s only in the last few years that the former power plant has burst forth with new life in the form of shops, restaurants, bars, activities and more.

And this year is a big one for the beloved cultural and gastronomic hub: Elektrownia Powiśle is celebrating its 5th anniversary of its major revitalization project! That’s five years of inspired projects, five years of premiers and vibrant shows, five years of culinary events, and five years of good food and good shopping and more. In our view, a special anniversary warrants a special treatment, so for its fifth birthday, let’s look at 5 reasons to visit this spot.

A Powerful Story

Elektrownia Powiśle tells an intriguing history, dating back to 1904, when it began operating as a municipal power plant supplying electricity to the growing city of Warsaw. During World War II, the facility director purposefully hired individuals to protect them from round-ups in the streets and the possibility of ending up in forced labour or a concentration camp. The heroic employees of the plant worked tirelessly during the intense battles of

the Warsaw Uprising to keep the occupied capital supplied with power. The facility would continue to operate all the way up until 2001, and, for the next decade or so, the plant stood idle. But that was far from the end of its story. Jump ahead to 2015 when Tristan Capital Partners and White Star Real Estate acquired the historic industrial site. The developers aimed to preserve the character of the space, retaining as many elements of the historic structure as possible in the redevelopment and revitalisation of the project. Elements that could no longer serve their original purpose were not disposed of, and instead became elements of the premises’ unique interior design. Even traditional brick-baking methods were used in material production.

Retail Options Abound

Elektrownia Powiśle is one of the top spots in Warsaw for thoughtful and stylish shopping – whether you’re looking for a gift or something special for yourself.

The cultural, culinary, shopping hub that's the heart of Powiśle, is celebrating its 5th birthday.

From food and fashion to accessories, shoes, books, and art, this destination offers a carefully curated selection with something for every taste. Not only that, but there’s a strong focus on Polish brands such as Elementy, Balagan, and Orska, as well as international brands, including COS, Weekday, and Urban Outfitters. For shoes, visit the Run Colors store or the Shoe House Klasyczne Buty boutique. For fragrance lovers, Galilu offers a carefully curated selection of niche perfumes from the world’s most sought-after houses. Avalonia Vintage brings fashion with a story – think blazers, jackets, and accessories where the past meets the present. And for those in search of impeccable tailoring, tailor-made suits for men can be pursued at Kraviec. More-renowned global brands are found at Chosen By boutique, possessing the likes of Dior, Chanel, and many others.

Find Incredible Restaurants

The food scene at Elektrownia Powiśle is truly unmatched. And that’s largely due to its extensive restaurant offerings. There are 41 restaurants, bars and cafes located in this space and lovers of all kinds of international cuisines, including Polish of course, will find something to love here. Think Turkish, Georgian, Italian, Vietnamese… the list goes on! There are, of course, plenty of elegant and upscale restaurants within Elektrownia. Some highly recommended spots are the Asian restaurant Pełną Parą, which serves up delicious dumplings or Thai PaTaThai with some truly authentic Thai food. The Italian Madre will ensure you get top-notch pizza, while Bakery serves up delightful breakfasts. Head over to Tex-Mex Blue Cactus for great tacos dripping in flavor, or try the beloved Polish restaurant, Dock19 by Mateusz Gessler (a

master on the culinary scene of Warsaw). Find more incredible dishes at Dym and Ivy Lounge, tasty Spanish food at Tres Toros, real American meat at Prime Cut & Cigar Room and still more excellent Polish and Ukrainian dishes at the popular Milk Bar.

Travel the Culinary World at Food Hall

One of the biggest draws of Elektrownia Powiśle is the famous Food Hall, which offers 17 stalls with different types of food, from dumplings to pizza, to even more specific stalls (try the Philly cheesesteak!). Plus it’s all held in a gorgeous space with high ceilings and plenty of tables so you can meet with friends or family. Head over to their extensive bar for a cocktail and grab a bite at one of their stalls before heading out to enjoy their outdoor garden – it’s truly the ultimate summer experience!

The Beauty Hall is Top Notch

It doesn’t stop at food! It is also home to a Beauty Hall - a dedicated space for beauty and relaxation, offering a wide range of services for both women and men. Among the standout salons are Warszawska Izba Lordów, providing comprehensive grooming and care for men; Beauty Skin, specialising in advanced face and body treatments or Balance & Beauty by Marta Bem, which takes a holistic approach to wellbeing through massages and therapeutic sessions.Visit the concierge who will assist you in finding treatments, and even making a reservation!

Home to Incredible Events

Almost every day, Elektrownia is buzzing with social life thanks in part to its long list of events (not to mention its popularity, of course). This summer, come on Wednesdays for live music on the square in front of Elektrownia. On Fridays and Saturdays find ”Dźwięki Powiśla” with DJs at the Food Hall. During the week, take part in a networking event where you “Eat, meet, make new friends, repeat”. Meanwhile, on level 0 there is the Kakadu karaoke & bar, which is open every day and offers private karaoke rooms for various numbers of people.

Elektrownia Powiśle

QH/I-6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com

Visitors flock to the incredible Food Hall.

Old Soul, New Flavor: Why Everyone’s Talking About Hala Koszyki

A bastion of good food and great atmosphere, people love gathering at Hala Koszyki.

It’s hard to miss when you walk by: Hala Koszyki, the large stone building with artistic glass in a curved pattern on its facade, feels antique in a way. It has the essence of a bygone era, but step inside and you’ll find a bustling modern culinary hub with top-tier food stalls, a hyper contemporary bar, and plenty of industrial chic design elements.

That blend of past and present is what gives the popular food and cultural hall its unique charm. The building dates back to the early 20th century, and recent redevelopments have sought to blend the past with the present, adding contemporary elements to the historic place. But how did this transformation come to be? Let’s take a look.

Historically Significant, Architecturally Stunning

Hala Koszyki was built more than 100 years ago on Koszykowa Street in Warsaw—on the site of what was then the Koszyki manor—and was designed in the secessionist style (art nouveau) by Juliusz Dzierżanowski in 1906-09. Art Nouveau is characterized by flowing, organic lines and the style is evident across the building’s gorgeous facade,

which includes an arc of large windows and unique designs in the stone. The fact that Dzierżanowski is responsible for its design is crucial to understanding why this place is so special – Dzierżanowski was an important Polish architect who is responsible for many buildings around Warsaw, from tenement homes to depots to palaces, in the early 20th century.

Originally, Hala Koszyki was a market hall, where locals would meet to shop for fresh groceries and see neighbors and friends, and the original marketplace (as well as its modern version) signified a crucial community space for those living in the Southern Śródmieście district. The ‘new’ Hala Koszyki opened in 2016 after a giant 5-year restoration and revitalization project helmed by Griffin Real Estate and designed by JEMS Architects.

Their mutual love of the original market hall is apparent in every last detail, right down to the cleaning and the reusing of original individual bricks, restoring original lattice metalwork and sculptural details relating to products on sale in the original market by sculptor Józef Zygmunt Ott.

Thanks to many of the modern design tweaks and incredible aesthetic details like the expertly curated background music, walking through the halls, perusing the stalls and climbing the catwalks of Hala Koszyki is a wholly unique experience. The designers and investors were certainly inspired by the mission and functionality of the original Hala, but they’ve added a breathtaking atmosphere and exquisite events. Here, you can eat at more than a dozen restaurants and bars or buy groceries to take home.

Rife With Culture and Diversity

Since its restoration, Hala Koszyki has become a staple in Warsaw and, rather unsurprisingly, proved amazingly popular amongst the young and hip, who flock here in droves every day (almost 3 million people visit every year!). There are many reasons for its popularity, but chief among them is the fact that this is a cultural and social hub, perfect for meeting friends over a casual (or even not so casual) drink or bite of exquisite food. With an open, airy interior, the space invites feelings of community and togetherness. But one of the best parts of Hala Koszyki is simply its diverse offerings, both in terms of food and events Let’s start with food, which is, after all, a large part of Hala Koszyki’s origin.

There's tons of history in this former 20th century marketplace.

It’s no stretch to say that Hala Koszyki is a gastronomic destination, a unique space for meetings and experiences. All the best of Warsaw’s gastronomic trends are on offer here, including hummus, sushi, burgers, curry (Indian and Thai), seafood, grilled meats and artisanal sandwiches galore (check their website for a full list). Top class little independent bistros sit next to some of Warsaw’s biggest chain restaurants.

Without a doubt, one of the biggest attractions of Hala Koszyki is its central bar, which immediately gives the hall the laid-back ambiance of an afterhours lounge. In fact, thanks to the bar, all of the food vendors also offer their own alcohol and many of them offer different craft beers on tap and in bottles, artisanal ciders, wines, original cocktails plus a bevy of alternative non-alco beverages from mango lassis to John Lemmons and everywhere in between. Plus, the space is always evolving with plenty of new exciting concepts coming in. We recommend trying Ragazzi Bar, which just opened at the end of May, or a new concept by the creators of popular restaurant, AleWino! The space, called Brut is sure to amaze when it opens this summer -- make sure to check it out!

Events Galore!

As if food, drinks, shopping and stellar architecture wasn’t enough, this summer is a big one for cultural happenings at Hala Koszyki! There will be various fairs, like craft fairs throughout the year, with weekend exhibitors presenting unique products. In the summer, Hala Koszyki is planning concerts from different countries including France, Portugal and Spain, and they’re continuing their Music Pavilion project, which is focused on presenting interesting artists from the world of alternative pop, hip-hop, urban music and young Polish jazz. The concerts take place on the first floor pavilion space and they’re always held on Sundays twice a month.

Hala Koszyki is a place of musical surprises and a place eagerly visited by influencers. From food to culture and music, there’s always something exciting happening at Hala Koszyki – and the popular space always seems to be at the forefront of new artistic and gastronomic trends. It’s well worth a visit.

Hala Koszyki

QF-10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, (22) 221 81 84, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00-01:00.

La Playa The Ultimate Summer Spot

When the sun is out in Warsaw, it's no secret that half the city's population heads straight down to the river. It makes sense! From boulevards to beaches and more, the river is the place to be. But out of all the options, which range from meandering the banks to lounging in the sand, our favorite – hands down – is La Playa. And the popular music and dancing venue has just come back for its 20th summer! This versatile spot on the east side of the river is a staple of Warsaw summers and brings a touch of the tropics to the capital, with a raucous fun nightlife and excellent daytime activities.

Day and Night

It’s important to note that this place is versatile. Meaning they can go from morning to night, from daytime lounging to evening parties with ease.

Let’s start with the day: Enjoy the sunny, beachy (dare we say almost Caribbean?) vibe of this spot. Here you’ll find a smooth, sunny boardwalk that weaves through soft sand beaches dotted with chairs and tables perfect for enjoying some bites with friends (read on for more on that). You’ll also find soft, sinkinto-them lounging chairs for looking out over the water and reading a good book. Little palm trees fill

the space, giving it more of that island feel, while colorful pillows and lights bring more Caribbean vibes to the area.

That’s not all – a set of hammocks make this space super lounge-worthy during the days. Gaze out over a panoramic view of the Old Town – don’t forget to take pictures! If you’re in a more active mood, this spot has you covered with great games of beach volleyball, frisbee and boules. You can even participate in Zumba classes!

For those who need to finish up some work, no worries – you can work remotely, thanks to the

La Playa is the place to be for nightlife, salsa dancing and great company.

WiFi chillout zone, which allows you to spend time finishing up what you need to do before getting out to enjoy the party.

At night, the space transforms into one of the best party zones in Warsaw. With killer cocktails, live music and dancing. We’ll get into all of that in a minute, but for now let’s focus on the atmosphere of a night at La Playa. As the music pulses behind you, watch the lights of the Old Town twinkling over the river. The crowd gathered at La Playa as well as the blue lights from the music venue will invigorate you as you dance and enjoy the warm summer night.

Music and Dancing

The highlight of La Playa is in dance and music. When we talk about this place pumping out the Caribbean vibes, this is what we mean. Every weekend, find incredible live Latin music pouring out of the stage at the center of La Playa. A large dance floor means you can enjoy yourself under the stars. Be prepared to find tons of people dancing salsa here – swinging their hips and partners to the beat of the music.

If you don’t know salsa, no worries! Professional instructors give excellent salsa and Zumba lessons here, so you can come back and practice and then put your new skills to the test every weekend! By the end of the summer, you can be an expert salsa dancer, with plenty of experience swinging to the Latin rhythms on La Playa’s beautiful stage!

Make sure to check out their Facebook page for more information on the price of lessons. And, if you arrive on select Saturdays, you can actually enjoy fire and acrobatics shows!

Food and Drink

One of the biggest pulls of La Playa is its food and drink offering, which promises beachy cocktails and tasty bites you can eat and drink all day long!

To fuel up, stop by their on-site food court, which offers tons of tasty bites like grilled chicken or honey mustard pork neck, salads, hamburgers and more. You can even order food sets to share like sandwich platters with delicious ingredients like blue cheese and carmelized onion, mozzarella and basil, and more. Meanwhile, the drink menu is extensive and every single sip brings you closer to that Caribbean paradise feeling in the heart of the city.

Soak up some rays on La Playa's beach.

Try offerings like margaritas (with or without the refreshing pop of strawberry flavor), rum hibiscus spritz, and various other delicious concoctions that use tropical fruits, rum, tequila and more to create incredible, beachy flavors. Refreshing!

If you’re more of a traditionalist, no worries - there’s plenty for you here! Classic cocktails like a tequila sunrise, long island iced tea, margarita and more all shine here. Plus, you can get wine, beer, shots and just straight liquor.

For the non-drinkers, there are tons of offerings, too, including some truly delectable smoothies. Try a mango, passion fruit and peach cocktail. Or maybe papaya, mango, banana is more your style? There’s a good array of options and they’re all very tropical –you don’t need to sip liquor to enjoy the island vibe! Coffee and tea are also offered, as are little snacks of breadsticks and crisps.

Plus, you can make a reservation before you arrive, and even order ahead of time to take advantage of group offers – just make sure to check the hours on their Facebook page first!

With incredible music, salsa dancing that takes you straight to the Caribbean, fruit-based drinks that refresh you and really bring that warm weather feeling, as well as a gorgeous open space under the summer stars, La Playa couldn’t be more perfect. Spend your whole summer here, learn salsa dancing, hang out with friends, and get the full island experience, right in the heart of the city!

La Playa

QG-3, ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 507 877 142, www.laplaya.pl, biuro@laplaya.pl.

Traditional Polish Dishes

Polish food is famous for being simple, rich and very filling. Below we list the most well-known dishes you simply must try while in town, all of which you should be able to order from any Polish restaurant worth its salt. Smacznego!

Bigos

Barszcz

A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with a croquette (‘barszcz z krokietem’), with miniature pierogi floating in it (‘barszcz z uszkami’), or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. A recommended alternative to other beverages, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Poland, so make sure you return home with barzszcz stains on at least one of your shirts.

Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’ ‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

Golonka

Gołąbki

Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish is like a ‘cabbage enchilada'. Consisting of boiled cabbage leaves filled with rice, onion and typically beef, gołąbki are rolled up and baked or steamed, then served with tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims that King Kazimierz IV fed his army gołąbki before the Battle of Grunwald, and their unlikely victory attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

This is ‘pork knuckle’ or ‘ham hock,’ as in the part of a pig’s leg between the knee and ankle. Boiled, braised or roasted, this is the closest the Poles come to barbecue, and is a delicacy. The meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Generally sold by weight, you might end up with more than you bargained for, but it’s certainly an Instagram opportunity. Go caveman.

Pierogi

Kotlet Schabowy

Typically served with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, this is probably the most popular meal in Poland. Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a weekend by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the sound of the meat being tenderised with a spiky mallet, so best mind your manners.

Poland’s most famous food, you can't leave PL until you’ve had them. These doughy, stuffed dumplings are typically steamed or pan-fried. Traditional fillings include potato, sweet cheese, minced meat, mushrooms and cabbage or seasonal fruits. If you nose around, you’ll find plenty of maverick fillings like chocolate, lentils or even chicken livers; the possibilities are limitless and served literally everywhere.

Żurek

Placki Ziemniaczane

These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to hashbrowns or Jewish latkes (if that means anything to you), and may be served in a variety of ways. Keep it simple with just sour cream (‘placki solo’), or turn it into a hefty meal by ordering them smothered in mushroom sauce or - our favourite - goulash (‘placki po węgiersku’). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a sour soup made from a thick stock of fermented rye flour. Typically chock full of potatoes, sausage and hard-boiled eggs, żurek is most often thickened with cream, and seasoned with marjoram, garlic, salt and pepper. The result is a tasty grayish gruel that any Polish peasant would be proud to polish off. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get it served in a bread bowl.

Drink Like a Local

The Italians have wine, the Spaniards have wine. The French…. also wine. But what does Poland do best when it comes to alcohol? Vodka and beer.

These are the two most popular alcoholic beverages in Poland, and that means that brewers and distillers alike have spent a lot of time honing their crafts. Here’s a rundown of the history of these two popular drinks.

The Long History of Vodka

The name “vodka” (an anglicised version of the Polish “wódka” pronounced “v-ood-kah”) means quite literally “little water.” The origins of the drink date back to the 8th century, when distillation was discovered and the practice began to sweep across Europe. When it comes to vodka itself, the first written record of the drink came out in 1405 in Poland.

Originally, it was used as medicine: it helped treat wounds, numb pain, make perfume. But the consumption of vodka became more popular in the 15th and 16th centuries as it became industrialized across the country, with distilleries opening in Kraków, Gdańsk and Poznań (in fact, the popular Żubrówka vodka dates back to this century).

The popularization of vodka continued at a quick clip in Poland, hitting some bumps along the way

(production slowed during the wars at the beginning of the 20th century). Now, Poland is one of the top three producers of vodka in the world, and produced nearly 100 million liters in 2016 alone.

Vodka Traditions

Poles are proud of their vodka and as a result, there are many traditions surrounding the drink. You may not run into all of them when you visit, but here’s a run-down just in case:

Na zdrowie – say this as you clink glasses and make sure to look your drinking partner in the eye or you’ll have years (some say 7, some say 5) of bad luck.

Christmas vodka – drinking a shot of vodka (sipping, not tossing it back) with some good pickled fish (Śledź) is a classic Christmas tradition. In fact, pickled fish and vodka commonly go together at any time of year.

Wedding shots – After the ceremony, the bride and groom will each get a shot of vodka and they’re supposed to down the shot, toss the glasses behind their backs, and break them. The broken glasses signify good luck in the marriage.

Polish vodka bottles at the Vodka Museum.

Vodka Types

There are many good Polish vodkas but also some classics.

Żubrówka – this is a Polish vodka from the 16th century that is just a classic staple. One popular kind has a sprig of bison grass inside, which makes the drink a little bright and earthy.

Goldwasser – bet you didn’t know this was Polish! This is a classic from the Gdańsk area, and you’ll know it because it has gold flakes floating inside and a slightly cinnamon-y taste.

Chopin – This is just a good vodka. It’s not too sharp, well balanced and it goes great with everything.

Luksusowa – Finally, the people’s vodka. This is good and affordable. This is what people buy to drink with friends on an unassuming Friday night.

Where to get it:

The better question is where not to get vodka in Warsaw? The Polish Vodka Museum (p.65) and the Vodka Museum (p.76) will each take you on a tour through the history of vodka and give you a chance to try some! Klar (G-5) is known for their unique vodka flavors, which are constantly changing as they find new ways to infuse vodka with berries, herbs and spices! Pijalnia wodki i piwa is a chain with plenty of vodka types to sample and enjoy.

Craft Beer Becomes Big

Poland also has a long history with beer that dates back to the middle ages. But it wasn’t until the 18th and 19th centuries that beer became mass produced on an industrial scale. The Tychy Brewery, which produces the extremely popular beer Tyskie, has been around since the 17th century.

The initial styles beloved by Poles were porters (dark beers) and then pale ales (much lighter beers) swiftly began to take over. Like vodka, beer production hit some bumps in the early 20th century but picked up again in the late century.

And that brings us to today – almost. While many of those lager-style beers have reigned in popularity for decades, the past 10 years have seen smaller breweries start getting in on the beer game. Many home brewing operations started making craft beer, and by making smaller batches than

industrial brewers, they were able to focus more on experimenting with non-traditional ingredients and techniques, leading to more interesting flavors.

Craft Beer Types

Pinta – around since 2010, this brewery is one of the most popular craft breweries in all of Poland, and regularly makes hazy IPAs, sour beers, pale ales, pilsners – the works!

Funky Fluid – a Warsaw-based brewery, this is another type of craft beer that’s been gaining more and more popularity over the years for its bold flavors of hoppy, wild and sour beers (and more!)

Trzech Kumpli – brewing since the start of the craft beer craze in about 2014, this brewery makes a lot of dark beers (smoked porters, Irish stouts) as well as light lagers and pilsners.

Piwne Podziemie – one of the smaller craft breweries, but that means they can really focus on their flavorand they deliver! For the beer snobs who have tried every type, this is the beer to grab.

Where to get it:

Well of course you can buy the large-scale, industrial beers (Tyskie, Lech, Żywiec) pretty much anywhere. But for craft beers, you have to know where to go. Pinta has a bar specializing in their beers on Chimelnia Street. Other bars like Jabeerwocky (G-8), Kufle i Kapsle, will also offer great craft beers, Bierhalle (p.93), and Browary Warszawskie (p.33) are very popular, too. Plus, don’t miss the beer festivals held in the spring and fall in Warsaw!

Craft Beer Tasting Boards! Photo: Meritt Thomas on Unsplash.com

Transport

Travelling around Warsaw by bus, metro and tram is fast, efficient and affordable; driving a car through the centre, on the other hand, can be confusing and frustrating. As such, for visitors the city centre is best navigated by bike, scooter, public transport or taxi/ride share - all of which are explained here. For detailed info about Warsaw’s airports and train stations, visit our website.

Public Transport

Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system, as well as a good metro system with the M1 line running north-south and M2 running east-west. Over 1,900 buses operate in and around the city, and run 05:00-23:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the letter N. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops.

Standardised tickets are valid for use on the metro, buses and trams, and can be bought from machines with instructions in English at all metro stations, and some bus and tram stops. Tickets can also be purchased from machines on the actual buses and trams, where you can pay by card, or using exact change only.

A standard single fare costs 4.40zł for 75min, or 3.40zł for a 20min ticket. If you’re travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw you’ll need a 7zł ticket

that covers both zones 1 and 2 (note that the airport is still in Zone 1). Tickets valid for 24 hours, 3 days and a special ‘weekend’ ticket might also be worth considering. Those over 70 ride for free, as do children up until the end of September of the year they turn 7, but you must have photo ID (those who ride free still need a ticket/’wejściówka’ to get through the gates of the metro - find wall dispensers next to the gates and hang on to the ticket for multiple rides). Everyone else pays full fare, unless you have an ISIC card which entitles you to a reduced fare (‘ulgowy’ ticket).

Once you’re through the electronic gates of the metro, you’re ready to ride. For buses and trams, however, there’s one extra step - validating your ticket immediately once you’re on board in the small ‘kasownik’ boxes on trams and buses. Plain clothes ticket inspectors stalk the lines, dishing out hefty fines for those without valid tickets. They often don’t look very official and you are within your rights to request identification.Qwww.ztm.waw.pl

Between trams, buses, trains and the metro, you can get anywhere in the city.

Getting Around

WawaBus

WawaBus offers a private transportation service to bring you to and from the airport, your hotel, your dinner reservation an! Not only that, but the sleek, modern cars and well-experienced drivers ensure that your trips will be as hassle-free, comfortable and enjoyable as possible! In addition to being prompt and experienced, the drivers each know at least one foreign language.QG-8, ul. Dziatwy 14C/12, tel. (+48) 515 00 10 01, wawabus.pl/en. Open 24/7.

Traficar Car Share

Download the Traficar app, find an empty vehicle, scan the QR code, and you’re in. You can leave the car in any legal parking space within their service zone, and you don’t have to pay for gas! You can rent a vehicle for as long as you want at only 4.99zł to start and then 1.69 zł per kilometer, or for 24 hours for only 69zł a day and then 2.09zł per kilometer.Qwww.traficar.pl. Prices are calculated as 4.99zł to start a journey, plus 1.69zł/km.

City Sightseeing Warsaw

If Warsaw needed proof that it is a major tourist destination surely City Sightseeing is it. 1.5 hour-long tours on familiar red double-decker buses let you take in the major sights. Buy one ticket and hop on/ off the bus of your choice, either blue or red line. Buses depart from ul. E.Plater, across from the Central Station and ul. Podwale near King Zygmunt’s Column. Travel around the Old Town, the National Museum, the Uprising Museum and plenty of other iconic Warsaw spots. Commentary available in various languages. See their site for details, routes and timetables. Buses run 7 days a week.QE-8, ul. Emilii Plater, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 793 95 79 79, www.city-sightseeing.pl. Open 10:00-18:00. Tickets 24hrs 150/120zł, 48hrs 180/150zł, 72hrs 200/170zł.

Hop on and off City Sightseeing buses as you explore the sights!

Warsaw Sightseeing

When it comes to Sightseeing, visitors should be sure to experience the dynamic synergy of Warsaw as a modern metropolis that still nurtures its cultural spirit and traditions. To this end, our guide details the capital’s most important districts, walking you through not only the antiquated Old Town (p.40), regal Royal Route (p.48) and the imperial beauty of Łazienki (p.58) and Wilanów (p.62), but also around the soaring, frenetic City Centre (p.30), happening Powiśle (p.54) and scruffy Praga (p.64). If your time is limited, however, here’s a cheat sheet of the city’s most unmissable sights.

Start with the Old Town and work your way down—all of Warsaw looks picturesque this season.

9 Essential Sights

1 Plac Zamkowy

More of a triangle than a square, and home to the Royal Castle, this popular plac is where modern Warsaw meets the Old Town.QSee p.41

2 Old Town Square

A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ of Warsaw’s golden days, the Old Town is also symbolic of Warsaw’s rise from the ruins of WWII.QSee p.44.

3 Vistula Boulevards

Warsaw’s left-bank boulevards are a favourite haunt of the locals - go and see why - walk, ride, or just chill on the riverside steps. Wow.QSee p.55.

4 Łazienki Park

Full of incredible art and architecture this massive park and palace complex offers spectacular opportunities for sightseeing or simply relaxing.QSee p.58

9 Palace of Culture & Science

Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’, this 237-metre-high structure was Warsaw’s tallest building until 2021, and takes its inspiration from the capitalist worldnamely the Empire State Building. Working around the clock, it took over 5,000 workers - ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a purpose-built village - just three years to finish the Palace in 1955 With 3,288 rooms inside, the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just Communist Party headquarters but also as ‘The People’s Castle.’ Now an iconic part of Warsaw’s landscape, the Palace is celebrated by some, while for others it merely represents Russian hegemony.

At present the building hosts several theatres, a cinema, numerous bars, restaurants and cafes, and a tourist info office, as well as the National Museum of Technology and the Museum of Evolution Tours of the interiors are offered hourly in Polish between 10:00 and 15:00, and in English at 16:00. Book tickets online in advance, or skip the tour and head straight to the outdoor viewing terrace on the 30th floor (via elevator) for thrilling panoramic views; tickets available online.

QE-8, Pl. Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.pl. Open 09:00-18:00. Viewing terrace open 10:00-20:00; terrace admission 28/23zł. U

5 Wilanów Palace

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17thcentury royal palace 10km to the south.QSee p.62

POLIN Museum

6

1000 years of Jewish history in Poland is chronicled in this excellent museum where the Jewish Ghetto stood during WWII.QSee p.79.

7 National Museum

With tons of art from the 20th century and beyond, plus great exhibits on ancient Greece and rome, this is a must!QSee p. 76.

8

Warsaw Rising Museum

Chronicling the heroism and tragedy of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, this modern museum packed with multimedia displays is one of PL’s best.QSee p.81

The iconic Palace of Culture & Science is controversial amongst locals, due to its association with Poland’s communist era.

Warsaw ‘City Centre’

Known locally as ‘Śródmieście,’ Warsaw’s City Centre isn’t exactly a district (it comprises several, actually), but more of a catch-all term for the downtown area. Definitions vary, but generally, you know it when you’re in it - wide streets, monumental buildings, billboards, busy crosswalks and little to stand in the way of progress. It’s the modern, fast-paced, forwardlooking part of the city radiating out from the Palace of Culture & Science, and it’s here that you’ll find the majority of the city’s hotels, restaurants and bars, but also government buildings, skyscrapers and places of commerce - the dynamic heart of the contemporary capital.

In terms of tourism, it’s not exactly inviting, so why start here? Well, chances are you’re staying in the City Centre and probably there right now, so let’s get familiar with what’s around before running off to the Old Town (p.40). Despite not being particularly cosy or nostalgic, there are still many points of interest downtown, and nowhere more conveys the modern character of the Polish capital.

Over the last 20 years, Warsaw’s skyline has burst forth with new buildings and unique architecture.

Anielewicza

Pawia

Pawia

Gliniana

Pawia

Dzielna

Smocza

Nowolipki

Nowolipie

Ogrodowa

Srebrna Dzielna

Grzybowska Spi

Platynowa

Nowolipki

TarczyńskaDaleka

Dantyszka Złota

Reja

Places to Explore

1 Plac Piłsudskiego

Used over the centuries for military parades and national celebrations, this is Warsaw’s largest square . Named after legendary inter-war Polish leader, Józef Piłsudski ; you’ll find a statue of the Marshal guarding his naming rights with a stern gaze nearby. The space has undergone quite a few rebrandings thanks to the changing political landscape, including a stint as ‘Adolf Hitler Platz’ under Nazi occupation. During the era of Partitions, the huge orthodox St. Nevsky Cathedral was built here. Considered a symbol of Russian oppression, it was razed after Poland regained its independence. It was here that in 1979, Polish Pope John Paul II gave an open-air holy mass to 500,000 people, instilling hope in the struggle against the repressive communist system. In 2018, two new monuments were added - both relating to the tragic and highly politicised Smoleńsk Air Disaster in which a plane carrying 96 members of a Polish government delegation crashed in the Russian forest in 2010; everyone on board perished, including President Lech Kaczyński , whose monument here gazes upon that of the other victims.

At the western end of the square you’ll find the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the broken colonnades of Saxon Palace - the grand structure this square stood in front of until its destruction during WWII. Here, the ashes of unidentified soldiers who died for the Polish cause are interred and an eternal flame is guarded by stone-faced soldiers. If you enjoy a bit of military theatre, you can watch the official changing of the guard every hour, on the hour, 365 days a year.QF-6, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

2 Saxon Garden

Plac Piłsudskiego’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier almost serves as an entrance gate into Saski Park, aka Saxon Garden. This historic 15.5ha park is the oldest in the city, and became one of the first public parks in the world when it opened to all in 1727. At that time it was a Baroque garden with the grandiose Saxon Palace playing a role very similar to the Palace of Versailles in Paris’ famous park. Despite its demise during WWI, Saxon Garden still offers several historical points of interest, in addition to lots of benches, plenty of shade and a much-needed escape from the urban din of the capital. The centrepiece of the gardens is a large fountain created in 1855 by renowned Warsaw architect Henryk Marconi. The alleyways running out from it are lined with blooming flowers, ancient trees and neoclassical sculptures. In the northwestern part of the park, you’ll find the Romanesque Water Tower from 1825 - also designed by Marconi, and modelled on the famous Temple of Vesta in Tivoli. Other curiosities include a sundial from 1863, a memorial honouring Varsovians killed during WWII, and a statue of Stefan Starzyński - the city’s mayor at the outbreak of WWII, who later to became a victim of Dachau concentration camp. It’s also worth noting the beautiful Renaissance palace on the southern side of the park, which holds Zachęta - Warsaw’s premier space for contemporary art.QF-6, Between ul. Marszałkowska and Plac Piłsudskiego, MŚwiętokrzyska.

Marconi’s fountain at the centre of Saxon Garden.

3 Browary Warszawskie

Once one of Central Europe’s most famous brewing complexes, this 4.5ha area has been revitalised into a trendy urban culture and gastronomy district , densely packed with dozens of restaurants, cafes, bars, bakeries and shops Mixing bold new architecture with restored historical buildings, post-industrial design with public green spaces, the heart of this ‘city within the city’ is Food Hall Browary - 13 world cuisines at restaurant stalls in the former cellars. The historic Browar Warszawski (Warsaw Brewery) itself has also been revived and is once again producing craft beers (19 different types!) for local hopheads, while other highlights include a sports bar part-owned by Robert Lewandowski (Nine’s). The food is delicious and so is the atmosphere -- it's worth coming here for a date night, or a friend gathering or even just a simple pint after work. Plus, in the winter months they even have an ice rink -- what's not to love about this place!

Q C - 7, ul. Grzybowska 60, M Rondo Daszyńskiego, www.browarywarszawskie.com.pl

4 Plac Europejski & Warsaw Spire

One of Warsaw’s newest public spaces, European Square was created by Wirtz International Landscape Architecture as part of the impressive Warsaw Spire - Poland’s 3rd-tallest skyscraper at 220m. Both the square and the office building have won awards for their design. This small square has a lot of features: trees, benches, fountains, reflecting pools, two large murals, an amphitheatre, a unique Art Walk gallery where changing exhibits are displayed, and an iconic 3D Instagram-baiting installation that says ‘Kocham Warszawę’ (I Love Warsaw). Of course there are cafes, bars and food options as well, making this a very unique and worthwhile place to hang out in Warsaw’s business district.QC-7, MRondo Daszyńskiego.

5 Fabryka Norblina

This former industrial site covering an area of 2ha near Rondo Daszyńskiego was once one of the largest enterprises in the Kingdom of Poland, with a long, complex history that dates back to the 1840s. The Norblin, Buch Brothers and T. Werner Factory (to give its full name) produced a wide range of metal, tin and silver-plated goods - sugar bowls, teapots, cutlery, vases, dishes and more - ranging from the utilitarian to true works of art. Until recently a neglected pearl of post-industrial architecture, massive investment has turned the area into a lively modern urban centre of culture, entertainment, gastronomy and commerce.

Now, find over 24,000m2 of total commercial space open to the public. Visitors will find an impressive museum covering the site’s industrial history, the BioBazar eco (organic) food market and bistro, the KinoGram boutique cinema, an Event Hall with more than 600 square meters of event space, ArtBox Experience, a fitness centre, shops, cafes and more - including a bevy of events. Young families will also find a lot of options here, starting with Smart Kids Planet (p. 82 ) , an educational play center for young children to partake in the fun with highly interactive games, activities and more! . This truly is the astounding cutting edge of Warsaw’s urban culture, so check it out. Q C/D - 8 , ul. Żelazna 51/53, M Rondo Daszyńskiego, www.fabrykanorblina.pl . T­E­6

6 Plac Grzybowski

This delightful square connects the city’s past to its present and unites the worlds of commerce, religion, entertainment and art. The main attraction is the 19th century Renaissance All Saints’ Church. From 1941 it was inside the Warsaw Ghetto and Parish Priest Fr. Monsignor Marceli Godlewski helped to house Jews in the rectory and assisted several to escape. Rebuilt after the war, the entire square has been recently renovated and today features dozens of benches, neatly landscaped grassy areas and even

a pond with a waterfall. Very well lit, it’s a wonderful place to relax or enjoy the many bars and cafes that surround it, day or night. Joining the square is ul. Próżna, the only full street that survived the Jewish Ghetto. It is here in the former heart of the Jewish Warsaw (p.78) that the Singer Jewish Culture Festival takes place each year in late August/early September. The Nożyk Synagogue - the city’s only synagogue to survive the war and still in use today - can also be found close by at ul. Twarda 6.QE-7, MŚwiętokrzyska.

7 Plac Defilad

Most people arrive to the Polish capital via Warszawa Centralna train station, which, together with the Palace of Culture (p.29), basically comprises Warsaw City Centre’s ground zero. Plac Defilad is the vast, mostly empty concrete and asphalt mess standing in and around the Palace of Culture, but particularly the east side. As the name ‘Parade Square’ hints, this mostly empty plot was created by communist-era city planners in the 1950s, along with the Palace of Culture. Measuring 24ha, it was until recently the second largest public square in the EU, though no one would have mistaken it for a proper square. For years it’s mostly been parking, but plenty of historical events have taken place here, from PRL propaganda parades, to massive rallies for Pope John Paul II, to Christmas markets, ice rinks and New Year’s Eve concerts. After a long construction period last year, the new, sleek Museum of Modern Art opened in October 2025, coinciding with the introduction of Plac Centralny (Central Sqaure) -- essentially, the central part of Plac Defilad surrounding the museum is being turned into a greener, more pedestrian-friendly space under the new moniker.QF-8, Plac Defilad, MCentrum.

Commerce, Catholicism, Judaism and cafe culture intersect at Plac Grzybowski.

8 Pasaż Wiecha and the Eastern Wall Pasaż Wiecha runs parallel to ul. Marszałkowska in the shadow of departments stores, known as the ‘Eastern Wall.’ Designed by architect Zbigniew Karpiński and completed in 1969, the buildings were hailed a work of genius, but soon fell into neglect. Eventually new life was breathed into the complex. Now, find shining glass frontages added to the department stores, and granite floored pedestrian walkways and modern tubular lighting added to the section behind the Jerozolimskie end. Although once entirely dodgy, Pasaż Wiecha - the long space behind the ‘Eastern Wall’ - is today lined with shops and restaurant gardens on both sides, making it an interesting area to explore. It also increasingly plays host to events like food fairs. Ironically, the centrepiece of the city’s big 1960s redevelopment plan is now a focal point in the ‘Nowe Centrum Warszawy’ plan, which will see this immediate area redeveloped once again in the near future. Start a wander east down the latter from here to see how far the city has progressed so far. MCentrum.

9 Plac Pięciu Rogów & ul. Chmielna

Warsaw’s newest public square opened in July 2022 at the intersection of Bracka, Krucza, Zgody, and Chmielna Streets - hence the name, ‘Five Corner Square.’ Although the new design still features of concrete, 22 maple trees have been added to the space, as well as numerous benches with almost 40 sitting places. Most significantly, the entire area has been opened up and given over to pedestrians, which is a huge improvement over the urban tangle that previously prevailed here. Plac Pięciu Rog basically the centrepiece of redevelopment works throughout this area which are transforming ul. Chmielna into a high street for pedestrians area for exploration: you’ll plenty of cafes, restaurants, bars and intriguing places for relaxing and refuelling. QG-7/8, MCentrum, www.plac5rogow.pl

10 Plac Konstytucji

A wonderful spectacle of socialist realist architecture Constitution Square was constructed between 1950-52 to be an ‘expression of creative optimism and peaceful work within the socialist system.’ Its real purpose was to serve as a focal point for the frequent state parades, which would go from here down ul.

Marszałkowska to Plac Defilad (Parade Square) in front of The Palace of Culture and Science. Quite an anomaly in the urban fabric of Warsaw, Constitution Square was the crowning glory of the Housing District - the first housing district to be completed out of the complete devastation of

Sightseeing

Warsaw City Centre | Sightseeing

WWII. It was quite an achievement and heralded as a big success at the time. Dominated by three monumental street lamps looking like giant tridents, you’ll still see some socialist mosaics here and there, but things get even better along the tail end of ul. Marszałkowska, leading to Plac Zbawiciela, where socialist reliefs of workers line the street.QG-10, Pl. Konstytucji, MPolitechnika.

11 Plac Zbawiciela

In the aftermath of WWII, this star-shaped roundabout became dominated by PRL-era buildings from the 1950s, but still harbours a couple of gems. The first is the conspicuous Church of the Holiest Saviour, from which the square takes its name (Saviour Square). Built in neo-Renaissance style in the 1920s, that it stands is a marvel, considering it was dynamited by the Nazis during WWII and then tagged for demolition by the communists. The other pre-war building here is the handsome Jasieńczyk-Jabłoński tenement (Mokotowska 12), erected in 1910. Upon completion, it was not only one of the most modern, but also the tallest residential building in Warsaw (38 m).Q G - 10, M Politechnika.

12 Warsaw University of Technology

Known locally as Politechnika Warszawska, this is one of the largest universities of technology in Central

Europe, with over 36,000 students. The historic main building is a wonder of neo-baroque architecture designed at the turn of the 19th century. Stout, sturdy and with unique rounded corners, the two-story building survived WWII bombing and was quickly retouched after the war. Its facade features an array of architectural embellishments: sculptures, bas-reliefs, frescoes and sgraffito. If you think the exterior is impressive, head inside to see the pentagonal cloister courtyard with four stories of arcades, staircase and beautiful stained-glass roof.QF-10, Plac Politechniki 1, MPolitechnika. Open 08:00-18:00.

13 Hala Koszyki

If you're wondering where all the students are, this might be the answer. This is one of Warsaw's handful of marvelous indoor market halls, with food, shopping, art and more! And this is definitely one to check out because it's photogenic, with a phenomenal ground-floor food hall, with everything form dim sum to gelato, burgers, fries and more! There are plenty of boutique shops and a lot of great events held here. This is urban revitalisation at its most impressive and photogenic. And great for summer, since they have a stellar outdoor garden for dining and drinking and hanging out with friends. well-worth a visit! See more on p.19 QF-10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00-01:00.

Sk y s c r a p e r s

& Viewpoints

Warsaw has plainly stated its ambition to have more skyscrapers than any other city in Europe. The city currently has 25 buildings over 100m high, with another 10 approved for construction, and enough pending approval to potentially bring the total up to 65 in the coming years. Beloved by locals and symbolic of the city’s aspiration to be the most modern capital in Europe, here are some of the most notable towers in town.

Varso: This neomodern office complex is the tallest building in the EU at 310m (though the last 80m is a spire). An observation deck at 230m is being planned for the summer of 2025. QE-8.

Palace of Culture & Science: Buy a ticket, then head up to the 30th floor of Warsaw’s oldest and second tallest skyscraper (237m) for amazing panoramic views from an actual open-air terrace More on p.29 QE-9.

Warsaw UNIT: Warsaw’s 5th tallest tower (202m) was completed in 2021. Included is the wild new adrenaline attraction Skyfall Warsaw - a vertigo-inducing glass box that dangles outside the building (available to companies and special events)QC-8.

Złota 44: Designed by Daniel Libeskind, this luxury residential tower is one of Wawa’s most beautiful and distinctive skyscrapers, and its 7th tallest (192m).QE-8.

InterContinental Hotel: At 165m, Warsaw’s InterContinental Hotel is one of the tallest 5-star hotels in the world, and features the highest swimming pool in Europe at 150m. Open to non-guests, go have a swim in the clouds.QE-8.

Centrum LIM/Warsaw Presidential Hotel: The Panorama Sky Bar on the 40th floor of this veteran skyscraper (completed 1989) offers a liquid view to the city. Although the drinks are among Wawa’s most expensive, this is one of the city’s most accessible views.QE-9.

Warsaw - THE HUB: Completed in 2020, this complex consists of two 130m buildings and an 86m building. For great views, head up to the bar on the 21st floor - The Roof (p.108).QC-8.

Atlas Tower: 119m tall and completed way back in 1999, the locals think this one looks like a porta-loo, but the 27th floor features one of the best luxury roof clubs in the world, Level 27. The building is also home to the Invisible Exhibition (p.74). QE-9.

Warsaw Spire - PL’s 3rd-tallest skyscraper (p.33). Photo by Adrian Grycuk.

The Old Town

A labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets, ornate tenement facades and picturesque plazas, it’s easy to understand why the Old Town is Warsaw’s top tourist area. A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ when Warsaw was a pearl of European architecture, the Old Town was actually entirely rebuilt after WWII. Today it stands as a stunning testament of Varsovians’ great pride in their city, and its rise from the ruins. If you have only one day in Warsaw, you should spend part of it here.

In the devastating aftermath of the Warsaw Uprising (p.80), 85% of the city’s left bank lay in ruin, half of its population had perished, and the Old Town was a smouldering wasteland. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau immediately started rebuilding the historic centre using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs. The first phase of reconstruction was completed in 1953, but works continued in the following decades, finally concluding with the opening of the Royal Castle (p.42) in 1984. Although what you see today is not strictly ‘original’ per say, its inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List speaks volumes of its authenticity and the effort required to recreate it.

WALKING TOUR

Our Old Town Walking Tour leads you around the oldest part of the city, showing you its most important and interesting points, beginning and ending near Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square) - the traditional entrance to the district.

The prescribed route covers only about 1.5km. If you’re only interested in the exercise, it could take less than 30mins, but ‘if done correctly’ - that is, with a couple of short culture, food and coffee/beer breaks - we reckon it will take at most several hours to complete. Make sure you’ve got a full charge on your phone/camera, comfy shoes and off you go.

Warsaw’s Old Town and Royal Castle never disappoint! Photo: Micke Mareen/Canva.

1 Plac Zamkowy

Most visits to the Old Town begin on Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square), the busy plaza where Warsaw’s medieval centre (to the north), meets the thoroughfare of its Royal Route (to the south), in the shadow of the Royal Castle. More of a triangle than a square, there isn’t a more popular meeting place in the city, with the steps of King Sigismund’s Column typically besieged by couples, schoolkids and skateboarders. A lot happens here, whether it’s political demonstrations, street performers, or the steady flow of locals and tourists out for a stroll. As for the famous column, it honours the man who in 1596 moved the Polish capital from Krak ów to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa. 22 metres tall, it was erected in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived and was returned to his perch in 1949.

Also note that there is a tourist info office located here at Plac Zamkowy 1/13 (open 10:00-18:00, Sunday 10:00-16:00). so you'll be able to find all the information you need before you explore further.

QF-4, MRatusz Arsenał.

Plac Zamkowy is the epicenter of the Old Town and the perfect spot for photos. Photo: Tomasz Bidziński.

Old Town Walking Tour |

Old Town Museums

When it was rebuilt, Warsaw implemented a vision of its Old Town as a place of culture. Today it harbours a remarkable number of museums! You may already know the famous ones (Royal Castle, Museum of Warsaw) so here we're highlighting some of the other impressive spaces:

Museum of Dollhouses Games and Toys: Over 150 highly detailed historical dollhouses, plus various other minature settings, and old toys! the museum's two permanent exhibits both show unique handcrafted models, costumes and toys, while also demonstrating how tastes and fashions have changed over time. This is a great spot for not only children, but adults, too!Qul. Podwale 15.

Museum World of Illusion: A nice reward for the kids, the exhibits will fool your eyes and meld your mind just a bit. Colors, lights and illusions! perfect for anyone who wants to learn the extent to which the mind can be easily tricked by the eye. Bonus: you'll go home with lots of fun photos so make sure to bring a camera. More on p.82

QRynek Starego Miasta 21

Pharmacy Museum: Travel back in time to a charmingly antiquated interwar 'apteka.' nside you'll get a healthy dose of history about medicine, poison and narcotics. Although niche, it really is a wonderful visit. Nominated for 'European Museum of the Year 2022.' Qul. Piwna 31/33.

Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre:

This small branch of the Warsaw Museum focuses on the architectural history of the Old Town - its destruction during World War II, the rebuilding efforts thereafter, and circumstances of its eventual entry on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Qul. Brzozowa 11/13.

2 Royal Castle

The pride of Warsaw, this palace was reconstructed at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was donated by communist-era cohorts such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money came via generous donations from exiled Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the residence of Polish kings, presidents and the seat of Parliament. Some of the halls are purported to be haunted by a ‘white lady,’ whose ghostly appearance portends disaster.

Those who plonk down for admission (60zł/45zł) will have plenty to see, including the Kings’ apartments and chambers, the Houses of Parliament and the opulent Great Assembly Hall. Additional tickets are required for the Gallery of Masterpieces and the apartments of Prince Józef Poniatowski - aka the ‘Tin-Roofed Palace’ (Though the palace is currently closed until further notice).

Luckily for families, children under 7 get in for free, while those 7-16 years old have to pay 1zł! Visiting time: 2hrs.QG-4, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek-krolewski.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 60/45zł. Kids & students with valid ID, 1zł for each exhibit; Wed free for all exhibits. U

3 Jan Kiliński Monument

This huge monument honours Jan Kiliński, a Warsaw cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliński and his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw residence - an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment in St. Petersburg.

Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally located on Plac Krasińskich. In reprisal for an attack on the Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński inside the vaults of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed the museum with the graffiti ‘People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan

Jan Kiliński Monument

Photo by yasonya Canva Pro

Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful place, before being relocated here in 1959. Kiliński’s comrade and superior Tadeusz Kościuszko himself once lived nearby at Szeroki Dunaj 5; this wide street was formerly home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the narrow street running at a 90-degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s Jewish Quarter during the Middle Ages.QF-4, ul. Podwale.

4 Old Town Defensive Ramparts

The first sections of Warsaw’s defensive walls date back to the late 13th century, and by the end of the 14th century they stretched 1,200 meters, enclosing an area of about 8.5ha, and included 8 towers and 4 city gates

The most famous of these now non-existent structures was the Kraków Gate on Plac Zamkowy, and the Marshall’s Tower - the highest point in the defensive structures - near the corner of ul. Krzywe Koło and ul. Brzozowa.

Already in the 15th century these defenses were deemed insufficient and a second, lower line of brick walls was built along today’s ul. Podwale at a distance of just 9-14m from the previous walls; a moat was dug in-between and the Barbican was built in 1548 as the final piece of the defenses. As Varsovians were already settling in numbers beyond the city walls, these fortifications quickly became obsolete and from the 17th century they were being demolished or incorporated into tenement buildings. Ironically it was the total destruction of the Old Town that allowed these walls to be rebuilt after WWII and today the space between the two historical brick ramparts forms a pedestrian promenade parallel to ul. Podwale known as ‘Międzymurzę.’ Apart from all the interesting history, there are some incredible modern experiences to be had here. QF-4, Międzymurzę Jana Zachwatowicza.

5 The Little Insurgent Monument

The communist authorities continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, though by the early 1980s cracks in their resolve were beginning to show, and this small-butpoignant monument made its debut in 1983. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by collections undertaken by scouts, the sculpture commemorates the children who had to grow up fast, serving as messengers and frontline troops during the Uprising. With its oversized helmet and rifle, the bronze figure was inspired by the story of 13-year-old corporal Antek, himself killed in action near this spot on August 8, 1944. For history buffs, this is the spot to go, hands (or arms) down.QF-4, ul. Podwale.

6 Warsaw Barbican

Crowning the set of the medieval defensive walls which once protected the northern entrance to the city, this fearsome rotund structure dates from 1548, built by architect Giovanni Battista Venetian on the site of an earlier gate.

Despite its intended use, the Barbican was only ever used in one fighting action when on June 30, 1656, during the Swedish deluge, Polish troops attacked to retake the city. In the 18th century, the Barbican was partially demolished with the remains being incorporated into new apartment buildings. It was during the interwar period that restoration work began to return the Barbican to its former glory, but alas, World War II put a hold to works, with it being completely destroyed.

Along with the Old Town reconstruction, the fortified wall and Barbican were restored. Today, it serves as a bridge between the Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for teenage drinkers, buskers and 'artists' selling their wares. Interested in more Barbican history? During the warmer months you can pop inside to see a small exhibition put together by the Museum of Warsaw. Even if that's not available to you, make sure to swing by this spot to simply marvel at the architecture and the impressiveness. Then make sure to head back into the rest of the Old Town for a great bite (p.46)QF-3/4

7 Old Town Square

Measuring 90 by 73 metres, the Old Town Square is prewar Warsaw’s defining highlight, lined with richly decorated tenements - keep an eye out for the ‘House Under the Lion,’ with frescos by Zofia Stryjeńska (our Polish artistic crush - look up her Crossroads!

Continue along the Old Town defensive walls to the Barbican, and on to the Old Town Square?

Or, duck out of the medieval walls and down ul. Kilińskiego, hanging a left on ul. Długa for a short <20min/1.5km walk to the POLIN Museum (D-4, p.79) via the imposing Warsaw Uprising Monument and lovely Krasiński Palace and Gardens (E-4)?

Crossroads!

Stay on target with a stroll through the Barbican towards the Old Town Square?

Or take a detour down charming pedestrian thoroughfare ul. Freta, past the Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum (p.73), en route to the New Town Square (350m away)?

Warsaw Barbican (p.44), the crowning feature of the old town defensive ramparts. Photo by Ekaterina Kolesnik / Canva Pro

work) at the southwest corner leading onto ul. Świetojańska.

Today the buildings around the Rynek host numerous cafes, restos, shops and museumsMuseum of Warsaw occupies the entire northern side of the square, Museum World of Illusion (p.82) can be found at number 21, and number 27 is home to Warsaw’s oldest restaurant, U Fukiera (p.101).

During the 15th century the square was home to Warsaw’s Town Hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Today, it features Warsaw’s best-loved monument and the city’s defining symbol - Syrenka, aka the Warsaw Mermaid Cast in 1855, this busty vixen’s form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll find in the capital. During the winter months, expect to find an excellent skating rink here and in the summer, great outdoor dining.QF-4, Rynek Starego Miasta.

8 Museum of Warsaw

Inside 11 conjoined historical tenements on the Old Town Square, this revamped museum’s permanent exhibit, ‘The Things of Warsaw,’ presents the city’s cultural history via 7,000 objects displayed in 22 thematic rooms. Included are portraits, postcards, souvenirs, and other items with representations of the Polish capital. Additionally, a new exhibit Testimonies from the Warsaw Ghetto shines a light on the difficult history of the city's ghetto in the 1940s, told by people who experienced it. Finally, there’s a bookstore, cafe and fabulous viewpoint overlooking the Old Town Square. Well worth a visit! Visiting time: 2-3hrs.QF-4, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, www.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 9:00-17:00; Thu 9:00-19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 35/25zł; permanent exhibit only 25/18zł; temp. exhibit only 20/15zł; Thu free. U­6

Warsaw Stories

Guided tours in English every Sunday at 2pm.

Museum of Warsaw 42 Old Town Market Square

www.muzeumwarszawy.pl/en

Part of the Museum of Warsaw's extensive collection.

Education partner of the Museum of Warsaw:

Eat & Drink

Warsaw’s Old Town is full of restaurants and bars, but, as this is literally the most touristy part of the city, the quality varies. When it’s time to take a break, here are a few places that are worth the money and worth seeking out.

U Fukiera: Adhering to tradition with extravagant flair, this famous restaurant on the Old Town Square offers an exceptional dining experience.Qp.101.

Gospoda pod Zygmuntem:This veteran Polish restaurant is as traditional as it gets, with potato pancakes, pierogi, kotlet, and so, so much more. Make sure to stop here for the authentic stuff.Qp.95.

Ciao Napoli: Authentic Neapolitan pizza (the best in town?), fresh seafood and a lovely space make this affordable franchise deservedly popular. Plus, there's outdoor seating! Qp.94

U Barssa: This classy restaurant brings a refreshing refinement to the Market Square with traditional Polish cuisine. Try their signature ‘Duck a la Barssa’ Qp.97.

Podwale Bar and Books: Open after 17:00, this sophisticated, dimly-lit cocktail and whiskey bar occasionally hosts live music on weekends. Qul. Wąski Dunaj 20.

9 Gnojna Góra

Demonstrating how every word sounds exotic when you don’t know the language, Gnojna Góra may sound like another charming stop on your tour. And it is for the views over the Vistula River, but not for the name, which literally translates as Shit Hill (Dung Hill, if you wish to be more polite). For centuries, this was the dumping ground for all of the Old Town’s waste. As you can imagine, it grew over time and the distinctive shape can best be seen from the bottom. At one stage it was actually renowned for its healing properties - people with obscene amounts of money would come here to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis (doesn’t work, it turns out). From here head back towards the centre via ul. Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most picturesque sights in the city, then swerve onto ul. Kanonia.QG-4, ul. Brzozowa.

10 Ul. Kanonia

Once the site of the oldest cemetery in Warsaw, Kanonia Street takes the shape of a small square, at the centre of which is a cracked cathedral bell dating back to 1646. Cast by artisan Daniel Tym (who also made the statue of King Sigismund III atop the famed column), the bell never actually rang at St. John’s Cathedral next to it, but it has developed its own legend: touch the top of the bell while walking its circumference and your wish will come true Across from the bell is one of the world’s most narrow houses at number 20/22. Only 2m across, it was designed to evade property taxes, which in the 18th century (when it was built) were calculated

The blue archway on ul. Dawna is a favourite of both locals and tourists!

based on the width of the facade facing the main street. Also note the covered walkway nearby, which links the Cathedral to the Royal Castle and was built after a failed assassination attempt on Sigismund III. The attacker, who succeeded in striking the King twice with a pickaxe before being overpowered, was subsequently dealt with using the most medieval means imaginable: stretched by four horses, he was quartered with an axe; his body was then burned, and the ashes fired from a musket so as to disperse them in the air. This was all done in public, of course, at the city’s execution place, a few blocks away at the end of ul. Piekaska.QG-4, ul. Kanonia.

11 St. John the Baptist Cathedral

Originally built in the 14th century, St John’s is steeped in history. The last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was crowned and buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the May 3rd Constitution inside the building. The bodies of Henryk Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Poland’s 1st president) and various Mazovian knights can be seen in the crypt (open Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 15:00-17:00, closed during mass; admission 5/3zł). As with most major landmarks, it was left in a heap of ruins during the Warsaw Uprising, before being rebuilt in pseudo-gothic style. On the external wall by the main entrance are fragments of a Borgward IV - a remote-controlled demolition vehicle used by the German army.QF/G-4, ul. Świętojańska 8, www.katedra.mkw.pl. Open 06:00-20:00; Sun 08:0022:00.

Choose Your Adventure!

Circling back to Plac Zamkowy you can either carry on down the Royal Route (turn the page), or circle round the back of the Royal Castle for a walk through the free gardens and down along the riverbank towards Powiśle (p.54).

Ul. Kanonia Wishing Bell. Juan Antonio F. Segal, CC BY 2.0

The Royal Route

The Royal Route is lined with plenty of spots for outdoor dining in the spring.

Warsaw’s famed ‘Royal Route’ links the city’s three Royal residences, starting from the Royal Castle (p.42) on Plac Zamkowy, via Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Isle (p.60), en route to Wilanów Palace (p.62) in the district of the same name. Officially covering 11km in length, this main artery through the city takes in a great many of Warsaw’s historical buildings, parks and monuments along the way, making a trip down at least part of the ‘path of the kings’ - be it on foot, by bike, or motorised scooter - a fine opportunity to see the heart and soul of the capital.

WALKING TOUR

In lieu of the full 11km traverse, this walking tour picks up at the end of the Old Town Walking Tour (p.40) on Plac Zamkowy and guides you gently down Warsaw’s two main high streets - ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście and ul. Nowy Świat  - to the ironic/ iconic Palm Tree fittingly at the intersection of Al. Jerozolimskie (Jerusalem Street). An easy 2km/20mins on foot, along the way or very nearby you’ll find many wonderful restaurants, cafes, bars and shops, so use the rest of our guide to plan your pit stops. Once you've exhausted these options, continue on the Royal Route to Łazienki and Wilanów (while resting your feet) should you choose to, or veer off to the center of the city and see the Palace of Culture or grab a good bite to eat.

1 King Sigismund's Column

We'll start at the iconic column in front of the Royal Castle, which effectively begins the transition between Old Town and Royal Route. Built in honour of the man who moved the Polish capital from Kraków to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa - this 22m column was erected back in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived, losing only his sword, and was returned to his new perch in 1949. The remains of the original column can be seen nearby beside the Royal Castle and has become a kind of meeting point for friends, tourists and everyone in between! QF-4, Pl. Zamkowy

2 St. Anne’s Church & Tower

St. Anne’s survived the war with a few scratches and a bombed-out roof, but what the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished in 1949 when the careless construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel led to landslides and huge cracks in the floor of the church, which threatened to collapse; it took 400 people two weeks to stabilise the foundations. Interestingly, St. Anne’s also found disaster in the 17th century, when it survived the Swedish Deluge only to be the victim of arson two years later. The classical façade dates from 1788 and the interior holds even more classical and rococo details. The real reason to visit, however, are the splendid views from the tower - worth the 147-step climb (church open 7:00-19:00 weekdays; Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-22:00. Tower hours below) 10/7zł. Call +48 22 374 94 84).QG-4, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 91, www.swanna.waw.pl. Tower open 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00 (in May, 10:00-18:00 weekdays; Sat, Sun 11:00-21:00).

3 Adam Mickiewicz Monument

Patriot and poet Adam Mickiewicz (1798-1855) is Poland’s greatest literary hero. Known as the ‘Father of Polish Romanticism,’ his epic poems and dramas served as inspiration for insurrections against the imperial powers that had partitioned Poland out of existence in the late 18th century. Born to an upper class Polish family in what is today Belarus, Mickiewicz attended university in Vilnius, where he began publishing his poems and became involved in political activities against imperial Russia, which now occupied the former territory of the PolishLithuanian Commonwealth. These activities saw him

The Adam Mickiewicz monument.

Photo by Michał Bednarek Canva Pro

exiled to Russia in 1824, but Mickiewicz was able to leverage connections he made in the salons of Moscow and St. Petersburg to escape to the west in 1830, eventually settling in Paris. A champion of freedom, he died during a cholera outbreak in Turkey, while recruiting a Polish legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea in 1855. His body today lies with those of the Polish kings in Kraków’s Wawel Cathedral. To learn more, visit the Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature on the Old Town Square (F-4).

This monument was first unveiled in 1898 on the 100th anniversary of Mickiewicz’s birth. Sculpted by Cyprian Godebski, the monument was destroyed by the Nazis, however, after WWII, Polish soldiers recovered Mickiewicz’s head and other demolished parts in Hamburg. Sculptor Jan Szczepkowski was able to produce a copy of the original sculpture, which was unveiled, along with its restored surroundings, in 1950.QG-5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 21-23, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

4 ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście Krakowskie Przedmieście is easily one of Poland’s most prestigious and well-known streets - the price tag of the rents matches the prestige! The street stretches from the Royal Castle in the Old Town (p.40) until it blends into ul. Nowy Świat. It is along the length of this street, and beyond, that you will easily find our list of things to see along the way - it’s almost impossible to get lost! As you walk along the route, be sure to stop at any of the 15 Chopin Benches. Designed by Professor Jerzy Porębski, they feature a button, when pressed, unleash a 30 second torrent of Chopin. Each bench contains descriptions in EN/PL to the site’s relevance to the composer. This is a delightful walk down one of the prettiest parts of the city. QG-4, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

5 Presidential Palace

Guarded by lions and stern-looking soldiers, of all the landmarks that line Krakowskie Przedmieście, none is more important than the Presidential Palace. Construction began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It then passed into the hands of various aristocratic families, becoming famed for its banquets in the 18th century - the most extravagant of which marked the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789; over 2 million PLN was spent entertaining the 4,000 guests.

Poniatowski proved to be one of the nation’s most controversial monarchs - and also its last. Among his successes was the Constitution of May

3, 1791 Signed on these very grounds, it was the 2nd such document in the world, after the US Constitution. The large monument in front of the Palace is of the king’s nephew, Józef Poniatowski

A Polish general, he defended Warsaw during the Kościuszko Uprising and eventually died in the service of Napoleon.

After 1818 the Palace became the seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, entertaining many a visiting Tsar before burning down in 1852. At the beginning of the 20th century an entire wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918, the Palace was commandeered to serve as home for the Prime Minister, and somehow it survived WWII. More momentous events came in 1955 when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO - was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as the official home of the Polish president, which is why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out. QG-5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

Crossroads!

Carry on down the Royal Route? Or perhaps hang a right after the Hotel Europejski down ul. Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza towards Plac Piłsudskiego (p.32)? Choose the latter to see Warsaw’s largest square and escape the urban hub-bub via the lovely Saxon Garden, a stroll through which leads you into the City Centre and on a path to Hala Gwardii (E-6) and Hala Mirowska (D-6) - two massive indoor markets 15-20mins on foot from where you’re standing.

Bristol Hotel is always a stunning sight.

6 Bristol & Europejski Hotels

Two of the biggest, most famous landmarks on prestigious ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście are former palaces turned luxury hotels today. The first is Hotel Bristol at number 42/44. First built in 1900, a brass plaque outside boasts of its many famous guests: Picasso, Nixon and Dietrich, to name a few. In 1993 it was restored to its pre-war glory and the re-opening ceremony was such a big deal, it was attended by Ms. Margaret Thatcher. Refreshed repeatedly since, it is certainly among the very top hotels in the capital, boasting an interior by world-renowned designer Anita Rosato that blends secessionist and art deco glamour with modern luxury. If you can’t afford to spend the night, you can still drop in to the wonderfully old school Cafe Bristol - a perfect place for coffee or breakfast.

Across the street is the revamped Raffles Hotel Europejski. The first hotel to reopen after WWII, it entered Varsovian folklore in 1967 when a group of young upstarts calling themselves ‘the Rolling Stones’ stayed here, under the watchful eye of the authorities, and had themselves quite a time tipping back vodkas in the hotel bar. In 2018 the hotel was refurbed for the Raffles brand and today it is a stunning luxury space full of contemporary art and custom furnishings. If you want to have your proverbial socks knocked off, explore the building’s many first-rate dining and drinking venues, Though you might not be able to afford anything, you can still wander through Europejski Boutiques - the most exclusive shopping experience in the country.QG-5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, 13, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet.

7 Chopin Benches

The good city of Warsaw has devised one more way to bring Chopin to the people, and that’s by way of fifteen musical benches that have been placed at key sites connected with his life since 2019. Made of cast iron and polished black granite, these benches feature a button which, when pressed, unleash a thirty second torrent of Chopin. They also come equipped with a route map as well as brief explanations in Polish and English as to the site’s relevance to Chopin. Each one comes inscribed with a QR code – scan it and download the Chopin App to access audioguides, Chopin melodies, facts, figures and photographs. This is, at the very least, a fun little trick to show your friends as you sit down for a much-needed rest while exploring the Old Town and Royal Route!QG-6, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, www.biuro.chopin2010.pl

Eat & Drink

Cucina Mia (Sheraton Grand Warsaw): Elegant, traditional Italian dishes bursting with flavor from earthy truffles to Amalfi lemons and fresh Sicilian fish. Qp.94

Zwierciadło Restaurant: The whole menu is a tribute to Warsaw, with traditional dishes rich in flavor, made with seasonal ingredients as well as excellent cocktails.Qp.97.

U Kucharzy w Arsenale: Experience sophisticated Polish cuisine in a charming historic building where the exceptionally talented cooks show off their skills.Qp.101.

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi: Immense portions of traditional Polish fare and charming service. What's not to like?.Qp.95.

8 The University of Warsaw

Carry on further and you’re in Warsaw Universityland, the main campus of which lies beyond the grand gateway of number 26/28. Dating from the 17th century the main building, known as ‘Villa Regia,’ was remodelled and renovated several times before Warsaw Uni was established here in 1816. The university had a tough time under Russian rule; closed in retaliation for the 1830-31 Uprising the uni continued to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar calmed down enough to rubber stamp the creation of a School of Medicine. Today, with some 48,000 students on the roll call, the university

of Sciences.

stands out as the largest and arguably best in Poland. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning travel writer Ryszard Kapuściński, the late president Lech Kaczyński and the poet Julian Tuwim.QG-6, Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, www.en.uw.edu.pl

9 Holy Cross Church

No self-respecting Chopin fan (is that you?) can leave Warsaw without first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Smuggled out of Paris in a jar of booze by his sister (true story), Chopin’s heart was brought to the church in accordance with his final wishes in 1882 and is sealed in an urn behind a tablet bearing his likeness, specially carved by Leonardo Marconi.

Although Chopin’s ticker serves as the church’s key draw there are several other notable features and funereal remains to tempt you inside this astonishing Baroque creation. These include another urn with the remains of Nobel Prize-winning author Władysław Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish icons including poet Juliusz Słowacki and WWII hero Władysław Sikorski. The organ, built in Salzburg in 1925, is also the largest in Warsaw.

Throughout a history that dates back to the 15th century, Holy Cross Church has played a role in Warsaw’s glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally suppressed a patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944, the church was painstakingly rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a feast for the heart, eyes and soul. Masses start at 6:00 a.m. and run daily at designated times. Parish hours are below.QG-6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz. pl. Open Tues, Wed 10:00-12:00, 16:00-18:00; Thu, Fri 10:00-12:00.

10 Nicolaus Copernicus Monument

The founder of modern astronomy. A sheltered academic, Copernicus made his observations alone, a century before the invention of the telescope. His book De Revolutionibus (1543) posited that the earth rotated on its axis once a day, travelled around the sun once a year, and that man’s place in the cosmos was peripheral. Though obvious today, this was an utterly radical idea at the time. Although those who propagated his ideas were burned at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no

Copernicus monument at the Polish Academy

turning back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy.

The statue itself was unveiled in 1830 and has seen its share of adventure. During WWII the Nazis placed a new plaque here insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp! - a German. A boy scout named Alek Dawidowski ducked the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis removed the monument, then dynamited a few others for good measure. The statue was recovered after the war, and Dawidowski entered Polish folklore for his bravery.

QG-6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet.

11 ul. Nowy Świat

The name of this street means “New World” and it is an apt description; just south of ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, Nowy Świat has a similar look to the Old Town but instead of museums and history, you’ll find food, beer, live music and a street constantly bursting at the seams with life. Like much of the Old Town, Nowy Swiat was also razed during WWII, but was rebuilt almost immediately following in a neoclassical style, rather than its pre-war Art Nouveau style. Legend (and history) goes that this street was rebuilt based partly on paintings of its pre-war ancestor. Make sure to stop by Karmello for some chocolate nosh and coffee.

If it’s nightlife you’re after, there’s plenty of bars: Dom Whisky Cocktail Bar (open until 4 a.m. all week) will serve all the bright colored drinks you want; across the street, Kufle i Kapsle has a craft beer menu that will make even the snobbiest beer snob happy. We could go on, but there is a lot in the way of eating and drinking and fun. Finish your journey by taking in the towering palm tree 12 at the intersection between Nowy Świat and Al. Jerozolimskie, an art installation that’s a beloved little touch of the tropics in the middle of town. QH-8.

Warsaw’s famed Palm Tree!

Powiśle: Warsaw’s Riverside District

Once a mundane area of apartment blocks and industrial decay, over the past two decades Powiśle has transformed into one of Warsaw’s most intriguing and eclectic areas to explore.

Considering its plum location along the riverside, it’s hard to believe that this large neighbourhood was essentially a cultural dead zone until skyrocketing rent costs in the centre forced Warsaw to reconsider its potential. Now, Powiśle has become a hotspot for everything cool, young and happening in Warsaw, so much so that the city decided to recently open a gorgeous pedestrian bridge tying the Praga (p.64) area east of the river to Powiśle (you can access it via Ul. Karowa in Powiśle or Ul. Okrzei in Praga.) The history of Powiśle's growth is interesting: Warsaw University was the first to pitch a tent in the area, creating a draw since 2002, and the adjacent opening of the Copernicus Science Centre (p.56) in 2009 invited further cultural investments. Then the Metro (2015) helped make it into a popular place for public recreation. The redevelopment of the former Elektrownia Powiśle (p.56) power plant into a space for events, dining and shopping (2020) typifies the high-powered investment taking place here today. Still, Powiśle maintains an authentic local vibe thanks to its balance of both trendsetting gastro spots and boho dives (like the iconic rotund Warszawa Powiśle bar I-7). Roll yourself downhill towards the river from Warsaw’s Old Town or City Centre to discover what’s good in this hood!

What to See

1 Fryderyk Chopin Museum

Warsaw’s Chopin Museum is touted as one of the most high-tech in Europe. Three floors of interactive exhibits cover the composer’s life in every aspect, including a recreation of his Paris drawing room, the last letter he wrote to his family, his death mask, and even an intriguing section on his social circle. In addition, there are dozens of touchscreens, audio-visuals, and musical games, making the museum a highly interactive experience that will keep visitors of all ages engaged. Thirty-minute live concerts take place every Sat and Sun at 12:00, 15:00 and 17:00 (available to all museum visitors). Visitor numbers are restricted, so we suggest reserving tickets online in advance. Located in the famous Ostrogski Palace, the building’s catacombs are said to be home to the legendary Golden Duck - a princess charmed by the Devil before being transformed. Visiting time: 1hr. Q H - 7, ul. Okólnik 1, M Nowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51, www.muzeum.nifc.pl Open 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 30/20zł.

Aerial view of Powiśle, with Elektrownia Powiśle (p.56) at its heart.

2 Powiśle Mermaid Statue

Warsaw’s ‘Syrenka’ - the iconic freshwater warrior mermaid - has been representing the Polish capital since time immemorial. The monument here is the second-most famous statue of the city’s symbol (the first being on the Old Town Square, (p.44), though this one actually overlooks the river the mythical icon is alleged to have dwelled in.

At 2.75 metres tall, the the bronze monument was created by sculptor Ludwika Nitschowa and unveiled in June 1939, just months before the outbreak of WWII; remarkably it stood unscathed in this exact spot throughout the entire war while the rest of Warsaw's left bank was devastated.r. Q I - 6, Bulwar Bohdana GrzymałySiedleckiego (near Most Świętokrzyski), M Centrum Nauki Kopernik.

3 Vistula River Boulevards

Warsaw has modernised and improved its left bank dramatically in the last decade. The Powiśle boulevards flanking the Świętokrzyski Bridge and leading north to the Old Town have seen the most development and are now a popular thoroughfare for walking, running, cycling and skating, as well as bars, cafes and restaurants - particularly in the warmer months - plus parks and leisure spaces.

This spring, it's the perfect place to wander and lounge and, when the weather gets even warmer, grab a drink or snack at the vendors that line the banks!

It’s fair to say that Warsaw’s river boulevards are now among the best in Europe so don’t miss having a stroll along the water while in the city.QI-6, Generała George’a Smitha Pattona, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik.

Warszawa Powiśle Centrum

Eat & Drink

When it’s time for a rest or a feed, there are many worthy venues on and around ul. Solec - one of the main streets in the area, as well as numerous food trucks and barges moored up along the river. Also, Elektrownia Powiśle has an entire food hall inside, so your options are manifold. Here are a few other notable venues in the neighbourhood:

Daebak: . Authentic Korean bento boxes served up in a prime location. Choose your own courses from the regularly changing menu, and enjoy Korean food on the go!Qp.94.

LAS: Lush but refined, this ‘forest’ uses local, seasonal ingredients to create contemporary incarnations of Polish classics, plus unusual cocktails.QI-7, ul. Solec 44.

PaTaThai Powiśle: Authentic Thai dishes from all over Thailand, all bursting with flavor like jucy duck and savory curry. Seafood, chicken and tofu all get their due here and it's famiily-friendly, too!Qp.96.

4 Elektrownia Powiśle

Once one of the largest electrical power plants in Europe, Elektrownia Powiśle powered the Polish capital from 1904 to 2001 before it was closed and left to crumble. Purchased by a developer in 2016, the historic industrial site was transformed into a multifunctional, mixed-use urban centre. Covering a massive 50,000m2, much of the site has been converted into offices, apartments and a hotel, but a remaining 15,000m2 in the former boiler and engine buildings comprises commercial space for retail, gastronomy and wellness. Reopened in 2020, today Elektrownia offers four levels of shopping, and is a culinary hotspot with 41 restaurants bars and cafes across the complex (see their Food Hall on p.17). Additionally, there is a 1500m2 Beauty Hall offering over 350 cosmetic treatments from 7 beauty concepts. Events are frequently hosted in the courtyards between the buildings, including a regular farmer’s market, yoga lessons and film screenings. There are plenty of reasons to check out one of Warsaw’s most exciting urban renewal projects.QH/I-6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Open 11:00-21:00. Food Hall open 12:00-23:00, Fri 12:00-24:00, Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:00-22:00. T­U­6­K

5 Copernicus Science Centre

An example of EU funding being used in a genuinely visionary way, the CSC is the very best science centre in Europe, and one of Warsaw’s top tourist attractions. The fun starts as soon as you encounter the museum’s very own ‘Robothespian’an interactive humanoid robot - at the front doors, before exploring several hundred hands-on exhibits across two floors that will have you actively pressing buttons, answering quizzes, and even exerting yourself physically. In addition to temporary exhibits, there are zones specially designed for the youngest visitors up to teens and adults. Visiting time: 3-4hrs. QI-6, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www. kopernik.org.pl. Centre Open 08:00-18:00; Fri 08:0020:00; Sat, Sun 09:00-19:00. Closed 1st Mon of every month. Planetarium open Mon 9:00-15:30; Tues, Wed 9:00-18:30 Thu 9:00-20:00; Fri 10:00-21:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-20:00. www.kopernik.org.pl/en/planetarium. Admission 46/32zł; holidays & weekends 48/34zł; planetarium 32/23zł. U

6 Kładka na Wiśle (Footbridge)

This long-awaited pedestrian footbridge opened in late March, connecting Praga on the east side of the river with Powiśle on the west. You can access it near Karowa Street in Powiśle (around Mariensztat below). The gorgeous bridge is the longest pedestrian bridge in Poland, and it's is meant for walkers and cyclers alike. In the warmer months, you'll likely find plenty of people meandering, some live music, some people selling ice cream and cotton candy. In the chillier months, make sure to bundle warmly as you cross the 502-metre structure, and enjoy some design features like viewing platforms and rest areas. The Polish name, Kładka na Wiśle, means "Footbridge on the Vistula River". If you want to connect from the Old Town to Centrum Praskie Koneser (p. 65 ) this bridge is the way! QH-5, Karowa 6.

7 Warsaw University Library Rooftop Gardens

Traditionally speaking, rooftops are the preserve of chimney sweeps, superheroes and Santa, but visit the Warsaw University Library (BUW) building and that opinion will quickly change. Topping off the bizarre oxidised green building is a lovely two-level rooftop garden filled with bridges, streams and sculptures that covers an entire hectare; there’s even a fishpond and a stone fountain mixed in among the oak trees and Japanese spirea. Designed by Irena Bajerska and opened back in 2002, the garden affords panoramic

views of lower left-bank Warsaw and across the river to Praga. A wonderful place to stop and rest in the heart of the city, take a picnic and sit amongst the groups of students taking time out from studying (ahem, napping). While you’re there, we also highly recommend visiting the BUW Gallery to see some fantastic Polish poster art (open 13:00-18:00, Sat 13:00-17:00, closed Sun; admission free).

Open 08:00-18:00 in October; 8:00-15:00 Nov-March (no rooftop access). Library open Mon-Sat 08:0022:00, Sun 15:00-20:00. Admission free.QH-5, ul. Dobra 56/66, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, www.buw. uw.edu.pl. Open 08:00-20:00. Library open MonSat 09:00-21:00, Sun 15:00-20:00. Rooftop Gardens accessible April 1 - October 31 only. Admission free.

8 Mariensztat

Cut off from the rest of the Old Town, the northernmost part of Powiśle has its origins in the 18th century when a nobleman received the land as part of a dowry. The area was built in 1762 and named after his wife, with the latter part of the name 'stadt' (changed to 'sztat' after World War II) being added to appease the Saxon king of Poland at the time, King Augustus III. Completely destroyed during the Warsaw Uprising, it was rebuilt after the war using a totally different street plan; the architectural design aimed to evoke a look mixed between 18th century buildings in the Praga district while also incorporating a socialist realist element. the picturesque neighbourhood is full of small parks and winding streets and provides a leafy retreat from the crowds just a short distance away from the heart of the Old Town.

In previous centuries, Mariensztat was notorious for its bordellos and bare-knuckle boxing matches, and its main square was once the home of a bustling market - a role today commemorated by a statue of a woman with a chicken and basket of goods, found on ul. Sowa 4. Today, though it looks a little sleepy, Mariensztat ranks as one of Warsaw's most engaging district.QG-4/5, ul. Mariensztat.

Choose Your Adventure!

From Powiśle it’s exceedingly easy to get to Praga (p.64) or the City Centre (p.30) through a lovely (albeit a little long) walk along the river toward the south. Alternatively, head north along the river to return to the Old Town (p.40) or check out New Town’s Multimedia Fountain (F-3), which is a popular attraction for young families; both are about 2km/20mins on foot.

Łazienki Park

In summer, Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Isle is the ultimate spot for photos. Photo: Paweł Czarnecki.

This glorious 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of Warsaw’s unparalleled highlights, adored year-round by locals and visitors alike. Although it seems as if half of Warsaw spends its fall Sundays here, the park is so vast that it never feels crowded and offers an enchanting opportunity to escape the capital’s modern-day gloom and get lost in its nostalgic past. Don’t mistake Łazienki for a simple city park; it is also a museum complex full of wonderful art and architecture. Don’t miss it.

The full/proper name of today’s park is ‘Łazienki Królewskie,’ which means ‘Royal Baths’ and is derived from the park’s centrepiece, the Palace on the Island The palace was originally built in the 17th century as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski, owner of the nearby Ujazdowski Castle and much of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private residence.

It was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as a private garden. Perfect for romantic strolls, family picnics and cultural outings, today the park is packed with gorgeous sculptures and monuments, palatial architecture and priceless art, lovely landscapes of bridges and ponds, plus cafes, restaurants and more. The whole park is a must when visiting the city -- don't miss it!

Tickets & Info

While the park is free, the indoor exhibits require a ticket

Ticket 1: Includes the Palace on the Isle, the Old Orangery, and Myslewski Palace, 60/30zł.

Ticket 2: Includes just the Cantonal Barracks and the Kubicki Stables, 30/15zł

Ticket 3: All places listed above, 70/35zł.

For all exhibits, kids under 7 & students under 26 1zł for all three tickets. Buy tickets from cash desks or machines at the Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship.Q H - 12, M Politechnika, tel. (+48) 22 50 60 024, www.lazienki-krolewskie.pl. Park open daily 06:00-22:00. Indoor exhibitions open from May to the end of September, Tues-Wed 10:00-17:00; Thu-Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat 12:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-16:00. Closed Mon and holidays.

Belvedere Palace

The Belvedere Palace was the residence of Polish presidents from 1918 to 1995 and then again during the presidency of Bronisław Komorowski from 2010-2015 (Presidents Aleksander Kwaśniewski, Lech Kaczyński and current president Andrzej Duda opted to live in the Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście) Built in 1694 and thoroughly remodelled in 1818, the building is essentially offlimits to visitors, but an eyeful to behold. A wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium and oversized Corinthian columns, the best views and photo ops are fetched from outside the park on Al. Ujazdowskie.QH-12, ul. Belwederska 56.

Chopin Monument

Don’t miss this famous art nouveau sculpture of Warsaw’s favourite son, Fryderyk Chopin. Depicting the composer right here in Łazienki beneath a willow tree, the work by Wacław Szymankowski was erected in 1926. As part of the Nazi campaign against Polish culture it was dynamited by the Germans on May 31, 1940; as the story goes, the following day an unknown patriot placed a placard on the wreckage declaring: ‘I don’t know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t play the funeral march for your leader.’ An original plaster-cast allowed the statue to be revived and this reconstruction was unveiled in 1958. QH-12.

Warsaw’s iconic Chopin monument.

Photo by vodolej / AdobeStock.

Getting

There

Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three main entrances on ‘Al. Ujazdowskie’, including numbers 116 (from Old Town/Nowy Świat) and 180 (from Al. Jerozolimskie, bus stop ‘PKP Powiązki’); get off at the ‘Łazienki Królewskie’ bus stop. Accurate times and routes can be checked online at warsaw.jakdojade.pl

Old Orangery

A good place to start a visit to Łazienki, the Old Orangery is one of two ticket offices and tourist info points in the park. Additionally, it's one of the top sights to see in the park. Originally erected in 1785-88 to house exotic trees through the once-harsh Polish winter, the sunny structure also harbours King Stanisław August’s Royal Theatre - one of the few surviving 18th century court theatres in Europe.

Constructed out of wood and covered in marblised polychromes, the ground floor is rather modest with simple benches on risers, while the upper level features nine boxes with eight female figures gripping candleholders in between. Interestingly, the space above the boxes has been painted to create the illusion of yet another level, complete with an 18thcentury court audience.

The theatre is still used today to host chamber concerts. The other important aspect of the Old Orangery is the Royal Sculpture Gallery. From the beginning of his reign, Stanisław August collected

hundreds of marble and plaster copies of the most famous sculptures from antiquity. 120 of these casts are displayed. Visiting time: 30mins.QI-11.

Palace on the Isle

The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison d’etre and therefore, a true must-visit when you're going to the park. Built as a Baroque bathhouse in 1683, the structure was converted into a Neoclassical residential palace in the late 1700s by King Stanisław August. Located on an island in the middle of a narrow lake, and connected by colonnaded bridges on each side, the façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors. Today, almost all of the palace can be visited, including the King’s private rooms

The main reception room, Solomon’s Hall, is decorated in the most extravagant of Baroque styles with a series of paintings depicting the History of Solomon. In 1793, King August converted the palace into the first modern public museum, displaying the most important paintings from his collection. Today, 140 of these canvases are on display as the Royal Picture Gallery, and arranged as they would have been in the years 1793-1795. This is a great spot to spend the warm summer days -- pop in for some lovely sights and then keep wandering th park. Visiting time: 45-60mins.QI-11.

Myślewicki Palace

Built in the 1770s and 80s, this elegant semi-circular palace was originally conceived as King Stanisław August's primary residence, though it gradually shifted to more diplomatic functions, hosting official state soirees and accommodating foreign ministers. Designed in Early Classicist style, the unique recessed entrance is decorated with mythological sculptures. After a thorough renovation, the building again appears very much as it would have in the late 18th century, and a walk through the interiors - replete with original murals, furniture and art - is worth the short amount of time it takes to see them. Visiting time: 30mins.QJ-11.

Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship

Very much as advertised, this museum will appeal to avid hunters and horse lovers, though the latter may have some trouble with all the mounted trophies.

If the trophies are too much, you can skip the former Cantonists’ Barracks - built in 1826–1828 and full of hunting arms and taxidermied animals - and head straight to the Kubicki Stables, built 1825–1826 and

Flanked in tulips, the Old Orangery is a delight in the spring.

Photo: Paweł Czarnecki

home to an exhibit of horse-drawn carriages, saddles, harnesses and riding accessories, which are sure to delight the horse lovers among your group.

The Stables also host the Royal Weaving Workshopfeaturing 19th-century Jacquard looms, ornamental fabrics, old fabric patterns and more. Visiting time: 1hrQJ-12, ul. Szwoleżerów 9. Admission 30/15zł; kids under 7 free; students under 26, 1zł. Fri free.

Botanical Garden

Part of the University of Warsaw, these separate gardens at Łazienki have several greenhouses stuffed with exotic, weird and wonderful species from all over the world, but what brings in the crowds are the stunning rose gardens just behind the main entrance. A riot of colour when in full bloom, the gardens are the preferred subject matter of art students, who set up their easels early and paint until the guards kick them out at sunset. Given such lush scenery, it’s tempting to find a bench and do the same. Open from March onwards.QH-11, Al. Ujazdowskie 4, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 553 05 11, www.ogrod.uw.edu.pl. Open 10:00-18:00. From March to April open 10:00-18:00. From May to August open 10:00-20:00. September open 10:00-18:00. October open 10:00-17:00. greenhouses open from Tuesday to Sunday. Admission 20/10zł (park and greenhouses), kids under 7 free.

Eat & Drink

Łazienki has several cafes and restaurants, though most of them are very pricey. Head out of the main gates to Plac Unii Lubelskiej (H-12) for more casual options.

Belvedere: Located in the park’s New Orangery, this is one of Warsaw’s most prestigious restaurants and worth the money, but not for families after a day in the park.QI-12.

Być Może: This hip cafe/bistro bakes its own bread, offers all-day breakfast and daily lunch specials, and is perfect whether you’re craving coffee or wine. QH-12, ul. Bagatela 14.

DZiK (Dom Zabawy i Kultury): This old residence offers European cuisine and hosts a wide range of evening events, getting wild on weekends.QI-13, ul. Belwederska 44 A.

Viet's Baguette: This deli offers 21 varieties of banh mi, known as a 'Vietnamese hoagie.' A great place to stop in before you head to the park. QG/H-12, ul. Puławska 7/9.

Klonn: Centrally located for perfect post-park bites, this stylish parkside resto is worth it for modern cuisine and excellent wine. QH-11, ul. Jazdów 1B.

The interior of the Palace on the Isle is a stunning look at royal life.

Wilanów

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century 45ha palace and garden complex 10km south of the centre.

Essential visiting for anyone wishing to understand the former grandeur of the Polish capital, Wilanów is more than just a palace. As one of the few existing remnants of the era when Poland was a vast kingdom stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea, today it also represents the European splendour and sophistication that was lost and few today associate with Warsaw. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of buildings also represent the height of Polish Baroque and are collectively one of Poland’s greatest cultural treasures. If the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to spend most of a day relaxing and taking in the sites here.

Getting There

10km south of the centre, Wilanów is best reached by bus or taxi, though the latter costs 35-40zł and essentially takes the same amount of time: 25-35mins. All buses stop directly outside the palace gates at the ‘Wilanów’ stop. From Plac Zamkowy (F-4), Pl. Trzech Krzyży (H-8) or Łazienki Park (H-11) take buses 116 or 180. From Warszawa Centralna train station (E-8) take bus 519. For exact times and routes, check warsaw.jakdojade.pl

What to See

Wilanów Park & Gardens

The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park developed over the centuries. The park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the 1950s. Comprising a two-level Baroque garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English landscape park and the so-called English-Chinese landscape park, recent revitalisation works and archaeological digs discovered several arctefats, including ceramics dating from the 12th century. The park opens daily from 9:00-21:00QP-2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow-palac.pl. Park Admission 10/5zł, Thu free (0zł ticket is still required).

Wilanów Palace Museum

The first museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion of the palace’s interior, comes in two parts. The first is the upstairs Polish Portrait Gallery - comprising room after room of portraits of the rich and the powerful from the 16-19th century. Next you’ll find yourself downstairs in the Wilanów

Gaudy grandeur and lush gardens at Wilanów. Photo: Ł. Kopeć © City of Warsaw.

Palace Residence, featuring residential rooms, suits of armour, Etruscan vases, magnificent frescoes and even a private chapel. Most impressive are the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife, while the wings house the apartments of the subsequent owners of the palace. Visit the Wilanów Palace website for info about temporary exhibits and tickets. A ticket also gets you into the park. Visiting time: 2hrs.QP-2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow-palac.pl. Open 10:00–16:00; closed Tue. Last entrance 1hr before closing. Admission (includes park admission) 50/30zł, kids 7-16 1zł, kids under 7 free; Thu free. U

Potocki Mausoleum

An extraordinary piece of funerary art, befitting two of Poland’s most powerful, wealthy and influential families, this tomb in Wilanów Park was dedicated to Stanisław Kostka Potocki and his wife Aleksandra (nee Lubomirska) Potocka by their son Aleksander. Designed in 1834 by Henryk Marconi and built between 1834-1836 by Jakub Tatarkiewicz and Konstanty Hegl, the mausoleum is made entirely of sandstone. Consisting of a Neo-Gothic canopy with lions holding shields bearing the crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski families in each corner, on the sarcophagus itself are the figures of the deceased, and around the sides symbols of their virtues and interests are displayed.QO-2, Wilanów Park.

St. Anne’s Church

A church has stood on this site since the 14th century, when the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here, followed by a wooden Gothic version in the 16th century that stood throughout Sobieski’s day. In 1772 the new brick Church of St. Anne was founded by Prince August Adam Czartoryski based on a design by Jan Kotelnicki. From 1857-1870, Aleksandra’s son August and his wife extended the church based on a Neo-Renaissance design by Henri Marconi, including adding the marvellous dome.

In the surrounding gardens you will find terracotta shrines marking the Stations of the Cross, while the crypt houses the tombs of the Potocki family. The church suffered damage during both world wars and was used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who looted and damaged it. The bells dating from 1723 and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people who hid them; today they are housed in the newly built Third Millennium Tower. Q O - 2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 18, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.pl. Open 08:00-17:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-12:00; Sun 14:00-18:00.

Wilanów Lake & Island

There’s also a natural lake found behind the Palace. Not only is the lake is open, but at this time ofc year (and throughout the summer) you can actually rent a boat to take out on the water! Different options are available to visitors, including gondolas and rowboats. A trip here will reward you with a glimpse of Enrico Marconi’s strange, Gothic-inspired pump room, and an adventure to the island at the centre of the lake reveals a monument to the Polish soldier, Captain Ksawery Burski, who served in the army of the Duchy of Warsaw and gave his life at Wilanów fighting the Austrians at the Battle of Raszyn in 1809.QP-3, ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16. Hours same as gardens.

Potocki Mausoleum

Photo by Chichebombon

Praga: Warsaw’s Alternative District

TARGOWA

WYB.SZCZECIŃSKIE

‘Gritty’ and ‘boho’ are just two of the terms tossed around to describe Praga, Warsaw’s east riverside district

Once disregarded due to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks, today an urban revival makes Praga worth visiting – especially for those looking to get off the tourist trail and see more of the city’s artsy side. The current standard-bearer for cool, folks here prefer their fun improvised and their bars dark. Filled with murals and hip hangouts, you can easily spend a day checking out the vibes of this alternative district across from the Old Town.

Getting to Praga

The easiest way to get to Praga is to take the M2 Metro to ‘Dworzec Wileński’ (eastbound to ‘Trocka’), and you’ll be in the heart of the district. From Warszawa Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the river to the ‘Park Praski’ stop. If you’re in the Old Town simply walk down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarności and the ‘Stare Miasto’ stop, taking trams 4, 13, 20, 23 and 26 to ‘Park Praski.’

1 Praga Museum of Warsaw

Located in the oldest surviving residential buildings on Warsaw’s right bank, this modern museum boasts interactive exhibits that tell the story of Praga: its people, history, industry, bazaars and more. The cellars include the Residents’ Stories Archive and two pre-war Jewish prayer rooms with original wall paintings, and there’s even an observation terrace. This is not one of the most well-known museums in Warsaw, but is certainly one of the most interesting. Well worth a visit.

Visiting time: 1.5-2hrs.QJ-3, ul. Targowa 50/52, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 518 34 30, www.muzeumpragi.pl. Open 09:00-17:00; Thu 11:0020:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł, permanent exhibit only 15/10zł, temporary exhibits 10/8zł; Thu free. U

2 ul. Ząbkowska

Nowhere is Praga’s revival better illustrated and its artistic vibe more felt than on Ząbkowska. Originally lined with timber frame houses, a fire in 1868 led to their replacement with tall tenements, all but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street so hard that wholesale demolition was seriously considered, but somehow it endured and today many of the buildings have been restored and filled with lively galleries and bars. You’ll know you’ve arrived at Praga’s high street when you discover the explosion of murals and street art near ul. Targowa. Don't forget to take photos!QJ-3, ul. Ząbkowska, MDworzec Wileński.

Eat & Drink

Locals will tell you that the best part of Praga isn’t the sightseeing, but the nightlife. The area’s main attraction is a vodka museum after all. You’ll find plenty of restaurants, cafes and bars in and around Centrum Praskie Koneser, along ul. Ząbkowska and ul. Okrzei. Here are some of the best hangouts in Praga:

3/4 Koneser Bar: Head straight to this bar hidden on the 3rd floor of the Polish Vodka Museum to try their delicious alcohol infusions and cocktails, and enjoy beautiful views.Qp.106

Setki Powodów: There are 100 reasons why you should swing by, but one of the main ones is its tantalising food menu (international cuisine) and a kicking live music roster!Qp.96

La Playa: This bustling outdoor concert and party venue has tons of Caribbean flair. This spot has regular salsa dancing and live Latin music during the night, as well as lounging during the day and lots of great cocktails and food. Qp.21.

3 Centrum Praskie Koneser

Once the Koneser Vodka Factory (1897-2007), this large industrial site lay mostly derelict before getting a major revamp in recent years and becoming Centrum Praskie Koneser. Interesting from an architecture and urban renewal standpoint, the complex includes the Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum of Fantastic Art, art galleries and dozens of restaurants, cafes, bars and shops! In the summer, this is the place to spend a day wandering outside, checking out the gorgeous architecture. QK-2, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, www.koneser.eu T­U­E­6­­­­

4 Polish Vodka Museum

Set inside a former vodka factory, this multimedia museum is visited with a live tour guide or audio guide. The experience takes you from the origins of vodka to modern production, showing you plenty of paraphernalia and treating you to a tasting of this strong spirit. This is a must for anyone interested in the history of Poland's national drink (and for anyone who wants to try a sip). Entries are timed so book in advance Visiting time: 1.5hrs.QK-2, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 50, www.muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl Open 12:00-20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-21:00; closed Mon. 70zł. 6

Thrifting Culture

Praga is known for many things but locals know that one of its best attributes is its thrifting culture. The neighborhood is a hotbed of thrift stores, charity shops, and second-hand stores. Here’s our suggested starting route. Get off at the Kijowska tram stop, begin on the south end of Ul. Targowa and work your way north!

Jeila Ciucholand:  With two stories and tons of men’s and women’s clothing, this is the perfect starting point. Find staple shirts, skirts, etc for around 10-20 Zł. Plus, some cool home items upstairs!QK-4, ul. Targowa 20B.

Z 2 Ręki:  Though this mostly has women's clothes it's well worth it: items are chic, modern and totally discredit the stereotype of thrifted clothing as "frumpy." Plus, thrift store prices make this spot a mustQJ-4, Targowa 59.

Kopalnia: There’s more to visit on Targowa, but let’s jump off for a bit and go to Kopalnia - this store is clothing, but also furniture, books, art, ceramics and so much more. It’s a little more expensive but so well-curated and the items are so nice that a visit is a must (say hi to the owner’s pet turtle while you’re there!).QK-2, ul. Białostocka 9.

5 Warsaw Zoo

Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visitors each year. In total there are 13,000 animals here, across 500 species. Conditions have improved dramatically in recent years, though a visit here will do little to change any opinions you have on locking animals in cages. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, he helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo.QH-3, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Open 09:0015:30; Sat 9:00-16:00. November open 09:00-16:00. Admission 35/25 zł.

6 Saska Kępa Beach

A popular beach with both football and volleyball courts, beach chairs and more in the summer. But this spot is not summer-only. In fact, meander down here in February or March to find some great views

of the center of the city, or peel off onto one of the paths that branches out from this beach for a nice long walk along the riverside. This is a lovely spot to explore, ride your bike and be amongst nature.QL-8, ul. Kryniczna. MStadion Narodowy.

7 Saska Kępa - Ul. Francuska

One of the most desirable districts of Warsaw; with property prices staunchly high, the neighbourhood is home to the nouveau riche, the intelligentsia and much of the capital’s art community. Now in the shadow of the National Stadium, the sporting complex plays a major role in bringing visitors to the focal point of the area: ul. Francuska, which hosts trendy bars, cafes, restaurants and mix of boutique and old-school shops - Saska Kępa is as close as Warsaw gets to the ‘Little Village’ areas of London or Paris or Greenwich Village in NYC. As such, it’s a great place to wander around, people watch, take in cafe culture on Francuska, or marvel at the architecture, including majestic 19th century manor houses, superb examples of 1920s and ‘30s modernism, and moreQL-6/7/8, ul. Francuska, MDworzec Wileński.

8 Skaryszewski Park

Skaryszewski Park is one of the most beautiful in Warsaw - you’ll find a pleasant 55 hectare site filled with wide alleys originally designed for horse-drawn carriages, man-made hills, waterfalls, lakes and landscaped flowerbeds. It’s perfectly acceptable to sprawl out on the grass wherever you like here and have a picnic in the sun. Or, in the winter months, stroll with a coffee or hot chocolate in hand and watch the birds at the pond. This place is always full of activity and relaxation -- the perfect park for new visitors to Warsaw!QL-5/6, Al. Zieleniecka, MStadion Narodowy.

9 PGE National Stadium

Opened January, 2012, PGE Narodowy can hold 58,000 fans. The construction was built using hundreds of 45m pillars driven into the ground to stabilise the 25m of war rubble the stadium sits atop Priced at 1.2 billion PLN, history buffs will note the Socialist era ‘Relay’ statue at the entrance has been preserved in a nod to the site’s heritage – it was here that Stadion Dziesięciolecia (10th Anniversary Stadium) stood, built in the 1950s to mark the anniversary of the end of WWII. Today, this is an exceptional place to watch football or mega-concerts. All tour info on their website. Most tours range 25-43zł Q K- 6, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, M Stadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 22 295 95 95, www.pgenarodowy.pl

Plac Konesera | Warszawa

Art, History & Culture

Warsaw’s combination of these three is what makes it so exciting. Whether you’re an art lover, amateur historian, or tracing your roots, Warsaw’s heady brew of imperial grandeur, prewar glamour, 20th century tragedy, socialist austerity and present-day dynamism makes it unique in Europe and offers much to the visitor. Use this chapter of the guide to discover the capital’s art spaces and current exhibitions, find out about museums ranging from niche to national, and learn about sites related to some of the most important events in Warsaw’s modern history.

A nostalgic museum with dolls from around the world and toys from the 20th century, this place delights and fascinates.

Warsaw’s Best Museums & Art Spaces

Warsaw is the centre of Poland’s contemporary art scene and home to countless pieces of priceless art. While Kraków’s collections skew more historical, Warsaw boasts a great variety of exhibits showcasing younger artists as well as the nation’s masters. When it comes to art tourism, temporary exhibits are often as or more important than permanent collections, so check the current exhibitions on p.70.

1 Fryderyk Chopin Museum

Located in a beautifully-restored palace, this museum uses incredible interactive multimedia displays to illustrate the life of Poland’s most famous composer, without any details missing! QSee p.54

2 Museum of Modern Art

An incredible, sleek modern museum that's host to some of the best modern art from Poland around the world. It's our version of the MoMA in Warsaw!QSee p.74.

3 melt museum

A spectacle of light, color, and sound, this museum is a must-visit that uses modern technology to take visitors on a journey that awakens the senses. QSee p.73.

Murals & Street Art

What about art in public spaces? Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with Polish print advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality. With such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles would have a penchant for street art as well. And they do. In Warsaw both graffiti art and large-scale murals are a common sight, with the city and private businesses even inviting international artists to do installations. You’ll find a particularly high volume of murals on buildings in Praga, Wola and around the City Centre, where the urban landscape is changing most rapidly. Although it’s a dynamic situation, as many murals are installed on buildings that later become designated for demolition, at WIYP we keep a close eye on murals and urban art, marking major works on all of our maps; just look for the spray can icon . Not only that, but we’ve meticulously put it all online with exact GPS coordinates, so that your smartphone can do the work of leading you directly to Warsaw’s alternative artistic visions.

Museum of Warsaw

4

The history of Warsaw is fantastically told in this revamped museum based in eleven historic tenement houses. An Old Town must-see for everyone.QSee p.45

5 POLIN

One thousand years of Polish Jewish history is chronicled in this incredibly impressive, popular museum. One of the top spots in the city.QSee p.79.

6 Museum of Dollhouses, Games and Toys

With tons of dolls and toys from around the world and the last century, this museum delights and fascinates -- all with a healthy dose of nostalgia and whimsy.QSee p.73.

Temporary Exhibits

It’s not uncommon for some temporary exhibits to be major events, even overshadowing the permanent collections of local museums. Of the literal hundreds of art events across Warsaw, here are a few picks for the coming months. For more, as well as other events in the capital, head to our website.

07.03 - 15.09 » 1945. Not the End, Not the Beginning

On the 80th anniversary of World War II, the POLIN Museum is looking at what happened after the war -- how did families devastated by horror and destruction try to rebuild?

Deprived of nearly everything—their nearest and dearest, their community and their home—they faced a dramatic choice: to stay or to leave.

This exhibit will trace the dilemmas and life paths of Polish Jews through the lives of select people via their personal biographies. The exhibition will also examine the fate of those who chose to leave Poland, as many did after the war. QD-4, POLIN Museum, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, 30/25zł, www.polin.pl/en/event/1945-not-end-notbeginning. Closed Tue.

28.03 - 14.09 » Alphonse Mucha – The Magic of Art Nouveau

‘Alphonse Mucha – The Magic of Art Nouveau’ is an opportunity to immerse yourself in the extraordinary aesthetics of the Belle Époque – an era full of elegance, subtlety and symbolism. Mucha’s characteristic compositions, depicting phenomenal women surrounded by floral ornaments and undulating lines, will come to life in a modern, multisensory form at ArtBox. The exhibition will feature a digital version of the artist’s most famous posters, as well as lesser-known works ranging from paintings and prints to architectural designs and jewellery. This will be complemented by an original soundtrack, developed by Studio Radio France, combining period music with modern arrangements. QC-7, Art Box Experience, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), tel. (+48) 571 03 04 80, Weekdays 65/55zł; weekends 75/65zł, www.artboxexperience.com

The Alphonse Mucha exhibition at ArtBox is a 360-degree, immersive look into the world of the Czech painter.

26.10 - 31.12 » Artificial Dreams

The highly popular melt museum has introduced a new permanent exhibit that highlights the connection between art and technology, specifically AI. The creators of the exhibition call it a “technoutopia meets cyberpunk vision of the future.” The exhibit, Artificial Dreams takes visitors to unknown realms of the relationship between humans and artificial intelligence through an interactive, highly immersive experience that blends art, light, color, technology and sound to awaken your senses. QG-7, melt museum, Plac Powstańców 2A, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 534 125 556, 39-59zł, www.meltmuseum.com/en/exhibitions/

17.04 - 31.12 » Testimonies from the Warsaw Ghetto

A poignant section of the Museum of Warsaw’s main exhibit, Testimonies from the Warsaw Ghetto, opened last year and looks at Warsaw through the period of German occupation in the 1940s. This exhibit presents viewers with daily life in the ghetto from various perspectives including soldiers and resistance members, women and men, amateurs and professionals. The exhibition includes objects recovered during archaeological digs, making it a truly fascinating journey. QF-4, Museumm of Warsaw, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, MRatusz Arsenał, tel (+48) 22 277 44 02, 25/18zł.www.muzeumwarszawy.pl/ en/wydarzenia/testimonies-from-the-warsaw-ghetto/

15.06, 22.06 14:30 » Norblin Factory. Past / Present

Warsaw has changed so much in just over a decade and now the Norblin Factory -- a shining beacon of activity, music, food and life in Wola, is showing us all just how much they’ve grown! In their new exhibition, Fabryka Norblina presents sets of photographs from 2025 juxtaposed with those from 2012. The set of photographs aim to show the same spaces of the factory 13 years apart to truly document its growth and transformation. Fascinating for anyone who lives in Warsaw, loves the Norblin Factory, or just loves history in general!QC/D-8, Fabryka Norblina, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 728 594 813, 40/20zł, www. muzeumfabrykinorblina.pl

15.06 - 09.09 » Retro Warsaw

Based on digitally reconstructed archival footage, Retro Warsaw will take you into the bustling, musical and colorful world of the interwar capital, resurrecting a time that seemed to be gone forever. Feel its rhythm, unique atmosphere and color in this 360-degree, immersive space. Imagine Warsaw

in its heyday. The city is coming to life. And you find yourself in the very center of it. Retro Warsaw is a story built over the span of a single day - from sunrise to sunset. Walking through its streets, you will visit the Norblin Factory and the Saski Palace. You will find yourself in a club, a restaurant and you’ll listen to a recital.QC-7, Art Box Experience, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), tel. (+48) 571 03 04 80. https:// artboxexperience.com/retro-warszawa/

18.06 - 21.12 » The Summer That Changed Everything. Festival 1955.

This new exhibit at the Warsaw Museum tells the story of a pivotal 1955 festival called the World Festival of Youth and Students, which became a carnival of multiculturalism, anticipating political and social changes and, above all, a generational experience. In addition to telling the story of the event itself, this exhibition will outline the social and cultural background of the 1950s. Archival materials and memorabilia from the festival, such as posters, postcards, scarves, pin badges or programs, photographs, socialist realist sculptures and paintings, as well as contemporary works of art will be shown.QF-4, Museum of Warsaw, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, tel. (+48) 22 277 44 02, 20/15zł, Thursday 1zł, www.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Closed Mon.

Museums

Warsaw boasts some superior museums, ranging from world-class attractions full of multimedia displays, to small institutions covering niche historical events. It’s more than we have space to cover here, but you’ll find them all listed and up-todate on our website. In this guide, some of the city’s most important museums are listed within the district tours of Sightseeing section, while the rest of the best are here. Descriptions focus on each museum’s permanent collection; for current temporary exhibits, see p.70

Art Box Experience

Using high-tech screens and playing with light and darkness, movement and stillness, the creative experts at Art Box present a number of highly immersive exhibitions through moving paintings and photographs projected across the walls, which visitors can marvel as they wander through the 800 sqm space. And the space isn’t just reserved for what the bright minds at Art Box can come up with -- it can be used for events, too! This can be big dinners, corporate meetings, retreats and much much more! The events on offer this time are excellent, including one about retro Warsaw and one called Alphonse Mucha – The Magic of Art Nouveau. It's the perfect time to visit! Visiting time: 1 hrQC-7, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), tel. (+48) 571 03 04 80, www.artboxexperience.com. Open 10:00-20:00; Fri 09:00-21:00; Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. Weekdays 65/55zł; weekends 75/65zł.

Chocolate Factory E.Wedel

Become a chocolate aficionado at the E.Wedel Chocolate Factory Museum in Warsaw -- home to the most popular chocolatier in the country. Discover the secrets of chocolate production and delicacies through a thematic exhibition, interactive displays and workshops for adults and children alike. The main exhibition covers three levels and is divided into a few thematic spaces -- the Ghanaian Space, The Chocolatier’s space, the Confectioner’s space, and the Designer’s Space. If you decide to visit the interactive exhibition, get ready for a whole host of exciting opportunities, including a chance to taste liquid chocolate and roasted cocoa beans, the ability to start the chocolate-making machine and touch the exhibits, and much more. Fun for everyone! Visiting time: 90 min.QL-4, aleja Emila Wedla 5, MStadion Narodowy, www. fabrykaczekolady.pl. Open 10:00-20:00. 70/55zł.

Step into the magical world of chocolate and take a journey through the history of the delicious dessert at E Wedel Chocolate Factory.

Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum

Born in Warsaw in 1867, local lass Maria Skłodowska would become better known to the world as Madame Marie Curie. Located in the renovated building she was born in, this charming museum pays homage to the life and work of the two-time Nobel Prize-winning physicist and chemist, whose many accomplishments include the discovery of the chemical element polonium (named after the country of her birth). Comprising five rooms, visitors will learn about her family and early life, see a recreation of her Parisian laboratory, plus many personal effects, including her private letters and scientific instruments. Of particular interest is an elephant, gifted by US President Herbert Hoover, which Skłodowska-Curie received during her 1929 visit to the White House - the purpose of which was to secure $50,000 for the purchase of a gram of radium for the fledgling Radium Institute in Warsaw. Visiting time: 1hr.QF-3, ul. Freta 16, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 80 92, www.mmsc.waw.pl.

Open 12:00-18:00; Sun, Sat 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, Tue free. U

melt museum

Melt museum offers a fully sensory experience involving lights, color, interactive exhibits, robot dogs, and so so so much more! The museum takes an audiovisual approach to creativity, using a blend of art and ultra-modern technology to offer vibrant imagery and sounds that are meant to awaken all of your senses. The museum hosts popular temporary exhibitions and asks that you book your tickets in advance online . Once you do, you’ll step inside a mind-bending world of light, color, touch and sound that really highlights what technology can do and how it can affect our perception of our world. Melt is something you can explain a million times over but until you go there, you won’t really get just how beautiful the experience can be! Prices depend on the day of the week, so check out the website for details, but most prices range from 39zł to 56zł. Visiting time: 45-60mins.  Q G - 7, Plac Powstańców 2A, M Świętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 534 125 556, www.meltmuseum.com . Open 12:0020:30; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00.

Museum of Dollhouses, NEW Games and Toys

A charming museum fittingly located right in Warsaw’s Old Town, this spot allows you to feel like a child again -- but it's not only intended for kids! In fact, it's geared toward adults and children! Showcasing over 150 highly-detailed historical dollhouses, plus various other minature settings, the

museum has four permanent exhibitions on display at its headquarters at 15 Podwale Street; “In the World of Old Dolls’ Houses,” “Sacred Toys,” “Dolls of the World,” and “Games and Polish Toys of the 20th Century.” A checkroom and restroom are available on site and the main exhibition is adapted to be visited by wheelchair users. Visiting time: 45-60mins.QF-4, ul. Podwale 15, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 797 72 30 29, www.muzeumdomkow.pl. Open 09:00-19:00. Tickets 42/30zł; kids under 1m tall, free. U

Museum of Life under Communism

If Warsaw’s communist history isn’t vivid enough for you on a walk around the capital, immerse yourself in PRL (Polish People’s Republic) vibes at this private museum. Showing what everyday life was like for locals during the years of Poland’s communist rule, the nostalgic exhibits include a recreation of a typical PRL-era apartment, plus plenty of photos, artefacts and relics that demonstrate the difficulty and absurdity of those times. Bittersweet for older Poles and eyeopening for foreigners. Visiting time: 1hr.Q G - 10, ul. Piękna 28/34 (corner of Plac Konstytucji and ul. Piękna), M Politechnika, tel. (+48) 511 04 48 08, www.mzprl.pl . Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 12:00-20:00. Admission 30/20zł. Audioguides free (after getting an app on https://mzprl.pl/audioguide-free-ofcharge/?lang=en) in EN, FR, IT & ESP.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw

After a long-awaited construction process, the new glistening, white building that’s home to the Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw finally opened October 25. The place is really something to see. Inside the boxy white building, you’ll find twisting, geometric stairs (reminiscent of Escher pieces) and large, white gallery spaces. In addition to art from a number of renowned artists around the world, the museum will be home to a cinema, workshops and talks, and so, so much more.

In one room, find a large fiber work that stretches floor to ceiling by internationally renowned artist Magdalena Abakanowicz. In another, a series of colorful figures lay on the floor - a work by artist Mariela Scafati about women’s protests for reproductive rights around the world. Other rooms hold massive modern art pieces involving materials like tent tarp, glass, and iron. In addition, there are areas for reflection -- giant bamboo doors open to several little rooms around the museum, all covered in bamboo with large windows to stare out at the city. These quiet rooms offer spaces to relax and reflect on what you’ve seen. 25/18zł. Visiting time: 90 minQ F - 7/8, ul. Marszałkowska 103, M Centrum, tel. (+48)22 596 40 10, www.artmuseum.pl/en . Open 12:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission: 30/20zł.

Invisible Exhibition

A unique experience where seeing impaired guides lead you into their sightless world. On the tour you’ll understand the challenges blind people face daily as you try to write with a Braille typewriter, use kitchen gadgets designed for the sightless, and solve simple puzzles while blindfolded. Next, enter a series of pitch-black rooms that force you to rely on your other senses. You’ll feel the contours of a sculpture to discern what kind of art it is, listen for cars before crossing the street, and the guide will even serve you a drink in the completely dark bar (bring some cash). Truly a fascinating experience. To visit, book online in advance. Tours in English can be arranged, but you must first email them via info@niewidzialna.pl with ‘TOUR IN ENGLISH’ as the subject line. Visiting time: 1hr.

QC-9, Al. Jerozolimskie 123A (Atlas Tower), MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.niewidzialna.pl.

Open 10:00-20:00. Admission 45/40zł; Sat, Sun 50/45zł. N

National Ethnographic Museum

Tragically overlooked by most visitors to Warsaw, this joy of a museum showcases all that’s best about Poland’s cultural heritage - colourful folk costumes, customs and traditions, tools and instruments, outsider art, handicrafts and more - all of it beautifully presented in a superb historical building. Interestingly, there’s also a ‘Korean Gallery’ with a traditional Korean ‘hanok’. One of the city’s most active cultural institutions, they host many events and worskhops, and you can expect multiple temporary exhibits at a time, including the current exhibition, Childhood which examines the experiences of children over the last 100 years. Visiting time: 2-3hrs.QF-6, ul. Kredytowa 1, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, www.ethnomuseum.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00; closed Mon. Tickets 19/10zł, Thu free (Including the Museum for Children). U

Neon Museum

Yet another old industrial space-turned-culturalhub is Soho Factory, the biggest draw of which is no doubt the illuminating (non-pun intended) Neon Museum. The passionate curators of this private museum have collected hundreds of Communist-era neon signs. One of Warsaw’s most photogenic places because of the beauty of these historic signs. Though this is closed in June, make sure to return when it reopens in July! Visiting time: 30mins.QM -4, ul. Mińska 25, Soho Factory, Building 55, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 665 71 16 35, www.neonmuzeum.org. Open 12:00-18:00; Sat,Sun 11:00-18:00. Closed Tue. Admission 18/15zł, kids under 6 admission free. U­6

Polish History Museum

Explore the history of Poland in this sleek, 7,300-square-meter museum that covers 1,000 years of Polish history through artefacts, movies, performances, guided tours and more!

There are plenty of history museums throughout Warsaw, of course, but if you’re coming to the capital city and wondering where the full, extensive picture of Poland’s past is located, well then you’ve found it! This museum starts with an overview of the Jagiellonian Dynasties in the 14th and 15th centuries before moving on to the Polish Commonwealth in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. The partition of Poland, the reunification, the period of WWII and the decades of communism that followed (it’s quite the history!) Visiting time: 1hrQul. Gwardii 1, tel. (+48) 691 231 681, www. muzhp.pl/en. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00; closed Mon, Tue. 20/10zł, children under 7 free.

Museums | Art, History & Culture

Vodka Museum

Poland’s first-ever vodka museum is a captivating journey through the more than 500-year history of vodka. With the world’s largest collection of over 10,000 exhibits, visitors delve into vodka’s origins, production processes, design, and even the traditional etiquette. Independently founded by the passionate owners of the renowned restaurant Elixir by Dom Wódki (p.99), the museum seeks to shift the perception of Polish vodka from mere party indulgence to a finely-sipped and respected spirit. Paying a little extra gets you in on a vodka tasting session. Tickets cost 30zł to see the permanent exhibition, whilst an included vodka tasting session is available from 35zł all the way up to 199zł for their VIP Package! Prior reservation is essential for this not-tobe-missed attraction! Visiting time: 40 min.QF-5, ul. Wierzbowa 11 (entrance from ul. Canaletta), MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 888 600 805, www.muzeumwodki.pl.

Open 13:00-19:00; Fri, Sat 13:00-20:00; Sun 13:00-19:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing. Admission 30zł. X

Warsaw National Museum

Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre interwar building, this is Warsaw’s most comprehensive art museum, leading you from the ancient world through the middle ages up to the 19th century. Along the way you’ll see the some of the country’s

most priceless works, including 15th century Dutch masters and Botticelli, plus Polish masters like Chełmoński, Matejko and Wyspiański. There’s also the Gallery of Polish Design and the Faras Gallerythe latter of which holds a rare exhibit of medieval Nubian art from the Nile River Valley, plus temporary exhibits. Visiting time: 3hrs.QH-8, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 10:00-20:00; closed Mon. Admission 30/15zł for permanent exhibits; kids and students up to 26; 1zł; Tue free. U

Zachęta National Gallery of Art

One of the leading galleries in Poland, with a focus on the contemporary. Located in a beautiful Renaissance-style palace in the centre of Warsaw, just across from the Saxon Garden, the setting itself is worth a visit. What makes Zachęta more of a gallery than museum is that there is no core permenant exhibition on display, but rather top-notch temporary exhibits showcasing the best in Polish and international contemporary art. As a result you get leading-edge art in an old European environment. Recommended. Visiting time 60-90mins. Q F - 6, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, M Nowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art.pl . Open 12:00-20:00; closed Mon. last entry 19:30. Admission 30/20zł, family ticket 40zł, students 5zł. Thu free. U­6

Learn the whole history of Poland's beloved national drink in the incredible Vodka Museum.

5 Reasons to Visit the POLIN Museum

Located in a green, grassy area just north of the center of the city, the award-winning POLIN museum is one of the best in Europe.

The museum, which has seen over 3 million visitors since it opened in 2014, tells the entire story of Polish Jews - from past through present – in a fascinating way, with plenty of interactive elements. And a new, exciting gallery – an addition to the Core Exhibition - titled “Bonds” - provides a link between past and present via the stories of the descendants of Polish Jews today. We could easily list a hundred reasons to visit, but let’s focus on the five most important.

1

This museum is extensive and tells the story of Poland from A to Z in incredible detail. Learn about kings, inventors, thinkers and industrialists, as well as about Jewish holidays, customs, religion and culture. Part of the museum is focused on the past, when Jews were part of local communities all across Poland. And part on the present, touching on universal themes like migration and nurturing one’s cultural heritage in a new country. Plus, the ticket includes an audio guide in 11 languages.

2

“Bonds” the unique new gallery - an addition to the Core Exhibition - is well worth a visit. It explores the link between past and present by giving a voice to the descendants of Polish Jews and Jewish women who now live in New York, Tel Aviv, São Paulo or Melbourne. What does the heritage of their ancestors mean to them today? The new extraordinary space includes a ceiling installation with nearly 700 buildings symbolizing the homes Jews have created around the world. The centerpiece of the new gallery is a multimedia installation presenting 8 short films presenting a link between past and present.

3

The architecture of this museum is impressive and worth visiting all on its own. Designed by the Lahdelma & Mahlmäki architectural studio from Finland, the museum looks minimalistic from the outside – a large grey structure that draws the eye.

But inside, the main hall impresses with undulating, dynamic walls and high ceilings that give it an airy, open feel. The design of the museum’s interior invites you to explore at your own pace, surrounded at all times by relics and touches of artistry.

4

This museum is actually fantastic for families and children - there are tons of ways for children and students to interact with the Core Exhibition here. In some exhibits, items can actually be touched and used (have fun printing your own ink poster, for example), and there are plenty of places for little ones to rest. Families can even get special audio guides that are geared toward the youngest visitors. And the color and movement of many of the galleries will impress the littlest viewers. This is regularly one of the top recommended museums in Warsaw for children.

5

Even the food selection here is impressive. As the museum itself says, they go “through the stomach to the heart” with many traditional Jewish meals offered in their restaurant. At the Varshe (Yiddish for Warsaw), find traditional Jewish and Polish dishes from Warsaw from the beginning of the 20th century. Tasty dumplings, dishes from seasonal vegetables, “latkes” - potato pancakes and much much more. You can also try Middle Eastern dishes like hummus, falafel, and shakshuka.

The POLIN museum is one of the highlights of any visit to the city, and once you enter, it’s easy to see why. From food to culture – both past and present –to architecture and the new exhibit, this is one you truly cannot miss.

POLIN's recreation of an 18th C wooden synagogue with painted ceiling.

Jewish Warsaw

When Nazi Germany invaded Poland in September 1939, Warsaw’s thriving Jewish population numbered approximately 350,000 - only New York City could boast a larger community.

Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare, Poland had been seen as a relative safe haven, and it attracted Jewish settlers forced into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the inter-war years, the Jewish population had made significant contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of Poland.

As we know, Nazi occupation meant the complete dehumanisation and systematic destruction of Poland’s Jews, who were first forced into ghettos, where they faced violence, starvation and disease, and then deported to Nazi death camps where they were executed. The Warsaw Ghetto was the largest of WWII and occupied much of the City Centre, as you can see by its outline on the maps in this guide. At its height it imprisoned 460,000 Jews in an area of 3.4km2. After more than 254,000 Varsovian Jews were sent to their deaths at Treblinka in the summer of 1942, those remaining began building bunkers and smuggling weapons into the Ghetto in preparation for what would be the war’s largest act of Jewish resistance. Beginning on April 19, 1943, Jewish fighting units engaged German troops in guerilla

warfare within the walls of the Ghetto in a final, doomed act of bravery, defiance and protest against the world’s silence and inaction. When the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising ended 27 days later with the German command’s symbolic detonation of the Great Synagogue, 13,000 Jews had been killed, almost half of them perishing from the fire and smoke as the Nazis burned the Ghetto to the ground, building by building. Of the remaining 50,000 Jews, almost all of them were captured and perished at the Majdanek or Treblinka Nazi death camps.

Following WWII, much of Warsaw’s surviving Jewish population chose to emigrate to the U.S., the British mandate of Palestine (taking an active part in the creation of Israel) and elsewhere. Today Warsaw’s Jewish community is estimated at only about 2,000, but the city’s Jewish heritage remains an essential part of its identity, honoured today by innumerable monuments, memorials, museums and events, foremost among them the POLIN Museum, presenting the history of Polish Jews, and the annual Singer’s Warsaw Festival For a full list of Jewish tourism sites in Warsaw, visit our website

The spectacular wooden synagogue installation at POLIN Museum.

Worth Visiting

Anielewicz Bunker

Only 350m from POLIN, this small mound and memorial marks the site of the large bunker from which the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising was lead by the Jewish Combat Organisation (ŻOB). Located beneath the tenement at the wartime address of ul. Miła 18 (today Miła 2), the bunker was discovered and surrounded by the Nazis on May 8, 1943, with about 300 people hiding inside. Given the chance to surrender, half of the occupants - mostly civilians - gave themselves up, but the ŻOB insurrectionists chose to stay and fight. When the Nazis used gas to force them out, many of the ŻOB fighters chose suicide. 120 fighters died, including ŻOB commander Mordechai Anielewicz and his girlfriend Mira Fuchrer; only about 15 survived (many of whom perished later). The bodies of the dead were never exhumed and covered over with rubble from the surrounding tenements to make this mound after the war. Today two monuments can be found on/near the memorial with inscriptions commemorating their sacrifice.

QD-3, ul. Miła 2, MDworzec Gdański.

Jewish Historical Institute

This amazing historical building that stood next to Warsaw’s Great Synagogue houses the Oneg Shabbat Archive, also known as the Ringelblum Archive - a secretly kept collection of documents, reports, essays, letters and other materials recording exactly what life was like in the Warsaw Ghetto, by those who were experiencing it, as it happened. As the Ghetto came under siege in 1943, the vast archive was secretly buried in three containers in three separate locations. Sadly, only the first two have been recovered, but they represent such extraordinary witness testimony that they were inscribed on UNESCO’s Memory of the World List

In the permanent exhibit you will see the original documents of the archive, the authentic containers and more. If you don’t have the time for POLIN, this is a great alternative. There are also temporary exhibits and an excellent bookshop. Visiting time: 90mins.

QE-5, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl. Open 09:00-18:00; Fri 09:00-16:00; Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Sat. Last entrance 1h before closing. Admission 15/10zł. Mon free.

Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery

A beautiful and poignant place to visit, this is Warsaw’s only active Jewish cemetery. Established in 1806 beyond the city trenches (‘okopy,’ where today’s Okopowa Street runs), the cemetery houses some 200,000 tombs and is the final resting place of many generations of Varsovian Jews, including Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language Esperanto.QB-5, ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.cemetery.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00-17:00; Fri 10:00-15:00; closed Sat. Admission 20zł. N

POLIN Museum

One of the best museums in Poland, POLIN explains a millennium of Polish Jewish history and relations through multimedia displays that earned the 2016 European Museum of the Year award. Located within the former Warsaw Ghetto, the modern building itself is a stunning structure of copper and glass. Inside, each gallery addresses a different era in the history of the Jewish people in PL. Learn about kings, inventors, thinkers and industrialists; about Jewish holidays, customs, religion and culture. While the Holocaust is described in detail, the permanent exhibit is primarily a celebration of 1,000 years of Jewish life in PL. It takes the better part of a day to explore. One combined ticket gets you into permanent and temporary exhibits. The museum is also home to a cafe and an excellent restaurant serving traditional Jewish cuisine (kosher dishes available). In the middle of a green public square, outside, visitors will also see several monuments, including a massive memorial the heroes of the Warsaw Ghetto. Plan ahead because the last entrance to the core exhibit is 2 hours before closing time. Visiting time: 3hrs.QD-4, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, www. polin.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-20:00; closed Tue. Admission with audio guide 45/35zł, Thu free. T­U

Okopowa Jewish Cemetery (B-4) in the Wola district. Photo by Fotokon / Adobestock.

Warsaw Uprising

August 1, 1944 . Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist hegemony, rose up in rebellion in what would be the largest uprising in the German occupied territories.

With German morale in ribbons, a retreat from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army on the east bank of the Vistula, no time seemed better than the present. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime military movement a.k.a the ‘Armia Krajowa’ or AK) launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw and installing an independent government. What ensued was an epic 63-day struggle during which the Home Army faced the full wrath of Hitler’s forces.

17:00 - W-Hour

On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski, 17:00 signalled W-Hour (‘Wybuch’ standing for outbreak), the time when some 40,000 members of the Home Army would simultaneously attack key German positions. Warsaw at the time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any numerical supremacy the Poles had was offset by a lack of weaponry. Nonetheless the Germans were caught off guard, and the Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the Old Town, Prudential Tower and the post office. The first day cost the lives of 2,000 Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag fluttered once more over the capital.

Within days German reinforcements poured in, and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. It was to prove a mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, cultural life thrived. Better still, the first allied airdrops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under the command of Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks.

Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on the insurgents' side was an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans, yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic self-assurance. Airdrops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate. All hopes rested on the Russians.

Polish Home Army soldiers in action, 1944.

After six weeks of inaction Red Army Marshal Rokossovsky finally gave the go-ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the river. The operation was a debacle, with heavy casualties and no headway made. This single attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaw’s Old Town had become untenable, and a daring escape route was hatched through the sewers running under the city. The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken with glee. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were forced to capitulate, some 63 days after they had taken on the Reich.

The Aftermath

Having deposited their weaponry, 11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Remaining inhabitants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city. ‘No stone can remain standing,’ warned Himmler, and what happened next can only be described as the methodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings of importance to Polish culture were dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas were simply burned to the ground. Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around $54bn. In human terms Poland lost much more. With the Uprising died a golden generation, the very foundation a new post-war Poland could build on.

Warsaw Rising Museum

Opened in 2004, this remains one of Poland’s best museums. Packed with interactive, multimedia displays, period artefacts, photos, video footage and plenty of sounds effects, this museum is guaranteed to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram power station, the 2,000m2 space is split over several levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of the 1944 Uprising - provided they don’t make any wrong turns; it’s a common mistake, and, as such, an audioguide (10zł) is handy. You can also get a guided tour in Polish (150zł) or in another language (200zł). Set aside several hours for the experience. Visitors start by learning about life under Nazi rule, with immersive displays including a clandestine radio station and covert printing press. The mezzanine level features a film detailing the first month of battle, including the opportunity to clamber through a mock sewer. There is also an exact replica of the B24 Allied planes used to make supply drops over the besieged city. The final sections are devoted to the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance, and a particularly poignant display about the city’s destruction; take time to watch the black and white ‘before and after’ shots of important Warsaw landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Nazis.

Near the exit check out the film City of Ruins, a silence-inducing 5min 3D aerial ‘film’ that uses old photos and new tech to recreate the desolation of ‘liberated’ Warsaw in March 1945. A viewing platform (open weather permitting) and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this high impact experience. Visiting time: 3hrs.QB-7, ul. Grzybowska 79, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 539 79 05, www.1944.pl. Open 8:00-18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission 35/30zł (kids under 7 free), Mon free. Audioguides in 8 languages 13zł/person. U

The Old Town Market Square in ruins, 1945.

© City of Warsaw

Activities & Experiences

Hey, it doesn’t all have to be exhausting museums and knee-lifts as you explore Poland’s largest city. Check out the local activities below if you’re looking for fun alternatives to traditional sightseeing, ready to try something new, or simply want some rest and relaxation.

Stacja Grawitacja

Smart Kids Planet

Smart Kids Planet is one of the best spots for kids and families in Poland! With 9 thematic zones and with over 50 engaging activities throughout, kids can play and learn as they do different tasks like building construction, shopping for food and fresh produce, learning about sports, and the magic of machinery and production lines, and much more! They'll develop cognitive function and cooperation skills all while having fun (plus there's a rest area for parents!)QD-8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 727 77 08 80, www.smartkidsplanet.pl. Open 9:00-20:00.

Gravity getting you down? Get the bounce back in your step at this huge trampoline park that also features 3D virtual reality gaming by Hologate, a ropes course, obstacle course, basketball and volleyball courts and even a climbing wall with routes for all ages and abilities. Put on anti-slip socks and join the fun. Children ages 3-6 must be accompanied by adults; older kids can be let loose while their parents hang out at the well-stocked cafe.

Qal. Bohaterów Września 12, tel. (+48) 726 13 06 66, www. stacjagrawitacja.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00.

Museum World of Illusion

A strict break from the stuffiness of the Old Town, this fun, colourful museum is exciting and educational for all ages. Enter the Matrix, a mirror room, a vortex, the room of shadows, and an upsidedown room - each and every one out-of-this world! Pefect for groups and pairs -- go discover the extent to which the mind can be tricked by the eye (don't forget to whip out your phone for pics!).QF-4, Rynek Starego Miasta 21, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 501 80 80 06, www.swiatiluzji.pl. Open 09:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00. Admission 42/32zł.

MK Bowling Entertainment Center

Found inside Galeria Młociny in the northern district of Bielany, this modern entertainment centre is just 2 mins away from the final stop of the M1. Once you’re there, you have the choice of 18 bowling lanes, 9 billiards tables, 4 shuffleboard tables, and 2 electronic dart boads, plus a kitchen that dishes out sandwiches, beer, snacks and more!Call in advance to reserve.Qul. Zgrupowania AK Kampinos 15 (Galeria Młociny, 2nd floor), MMłociny, tel. (+48) 600 80 05 56, www.mkbowling.pl/start-warszawa. Open 12:0022:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 10:00-24:00; Sun 10:00-22:00.

Museum of Life under Communism

If Warsaw’s communist history isn’t vivid enough for you on a walk around the capital, immerse yourself in PRL vibes at this museum. Showing what life was like under communism, the exhibits include a recreation of a PRL-era apartment, photos, artefacts and relics that demonstrate the difficulty and absurdity of those times. Visiting time: 1hr.QG-10, ul. Piękna 28/34 (corner of Plac Konstytucji and ul. Piękna), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 511 04 48 08, www.mzprl. pl. Open 10:00-18:00; Fri 12:00-20:00. Admission 28/18zł. Audioguides 10zł, free on Thu in EN, FR, IT & ESP.

Warsaw Arcade Museum

This is one for nostalgia and fun-lovers alike! This interactive museum of video games is like a time machine back to the 80s and 90s, with tons of classic video games available to everyone, 120 vintage arcade machines and even the history of arcade games and their revolution over the years. Find arcade classics like Pac Man, Mario, Donkey Kong and much much more. Perfect for kids and adults!QAl. Jerozolimskie 200, tel. (+48) 573 999 815, www.warsawarcademuseum.com. Open 14:00-21:00; Fri 14:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00. 60/40zł/1h.

Beauty & Spa

Any treatment you want, from skincare to touch-ups can be easily found at Estell Clinic.

By this point, you’re well aware of how jam-packed Warsaw is. From little cafes (p.90) to walking paths, to Old Town (p.40), park (p.58) and center city (p.30) sightseeing. But sometimes you just need to take a break from all the exploring and relax, and Warsaw is the place for that, too!

In fact, we think it’s better than many other cities in this department for a number of reasons. First, it’s much more affordable. The prices at most spas and beauty centers in Warsaw are very doable for the average traveller. But more importantly, we have variety here. Warsaw spas and beauty centers use different concepts to bring you a relaxing, fun experience that you cannot find anywhere else. Dive in, choose wisely, kick your feet up, and relax

Beauty Hall

Elektrownia Powiśle’s Beauty Hall is an oasis of beauty and relaxation in the heart of Warsaw. The one-ofa-kind concept offers the comfort of holistic beauty in a lovely space. Take advantage of a wide range of face and body treatments in the Beauty Skin clinic, massages and holistic rituals in Balance & Beauty by Marta Bem, and barber and beauty services offered by experienced specialists at the Warsaw House of Lords salon. It is an ideal destination for both a quick treatment during the day and a longer regeneration after work or on the weekend. Essentially, this is a place not only to get a beauty treatment and take

care of your appearance, but also spend some time relaxing and rejuvinating. The Beauty Hall zone on level +2 in Elektrownia Powiśle is open from Monday to Saturday from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. and on Sundays from 10:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.QH/I-6, ul. Dobra 42 (Elektrownia Powiśle), MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.beautyhall.pl. Open 08:00-20:00; Sun 10:00-19:00.

Beer & Wine SPA

What do you get when you combine a love of fine wines and beers, a passion for relaxation, and a beautiful spot for health and well-being? Of course the answer is the Beer and Wine Spa! Here you can enjoy high-quality spa treatments like goat milk baths, massages and more, along with some of the tastiest beverages you can find in the city. In fact, the two are so intertwined, that you can even get facial treatments from the beer and grape cosmetics line which give your skin deep rejuvination. Or book a whole beer/wine spa package and sip a glass of bubbly while you enjoy top-notch spa treatments.

This is really a true symbol of comfort and relaxation, with the concept based on the idea that good feelings and good well-being go hand-in-hand. Plus, you can enjoy 20% off all treatments during a current promotion! Perfect for couples, singles, friend groups and more.QG-7, plac Powstańców Warszawy 2a, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 662 380 090, www.beerandwinespa.pl. Open 12:00-20:00.

Estell Clinic

When it comes to the top of the top, the best beauty clinics around, Estell is the one you want. This spot offers a multitude of different beauty options, from body shaping and dermatology, to even dental prosthetics. This is where you come for some topnotch beauty treatments.

It's worth taking a look at their list of offerings because it's far beyond anything we could describe here. Some of their most popular offers are skin consultations, body shaping, a whole host of dentistry offerings, eye area treatments and more. Suffering from migranes? They can help. Tired of loose skin from weight loss? Here too. Wrinkles, scar removal, dry facial skin... The list goes on (and on and on) It's safe to say that whatever beauty treatment you're looking for, whatever little tweak you want to make, can be found here at Estell. These are world-class services at unbeatable prices. The goal here is to make the patient feel comfortable and safe, and technicians use top-notch modern technology to treat anything you could want to treat (beauty-wise) with certified, highquality materials. If you want a little beautification amid your stay in Warsaw, this is undoubtedly the place for it. Two other locations at Okopowa 58/72 and ul. Burakowska 14, with earlier hours. QF-5, ul. Bielańska 2. MRateusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 431 36 66, www.estell.pl. Open 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-18:00.

From haircuts to makeup, there's a plethora of offers at Beauty Hall Elektrownia Powiśle.

Kids & Families

While Warsaw has plenty of wonders, not every cultural site is going to be engaging for young visitors. The first step to having a successful family vacation is probably to just accept that what you and your kids want to do are not going to be one and the same. That said, there’s common ground to be found in some of Warsaw’s most popular attractions.

Wandering the Old Town (p.40) or Łazienki (p.58) will likely please everyone, as will a walk along the Vistula Boulevards (p.55) - a great outing with plenty of diversions, most obvious of which is the stimulating and educational Copernicus Science Centre (p.56) and Multimedia Fountain Park further north. You’ll also find playgrounds along the river, and in the high season you can take a ferry to the wild side of Wisła and enjoy one of the city’s wild beaches

Although it may sound more like punishment, kids really respond to the interactive exhibits of the highly modern Warsaw Rising Museum (p.81), which features areas designed specifically for young visitors. Some of Warsaw’s more niche museums like the National Ethnographic Museum, Museum of Dollhouses and Photoplasticon are also good choices for families. Of course, Warsaw has plenty of action-packed indoor attractions, too so don’t miss the rainy day recommendations on the previous pages.

Chocolate Factory E. Wedel

This museum is a kid's dream come true! One of the most popular chocolatiers in the country, Wedel, has a large exhibit that lets you discover the secrets of chocolate production and delicacies through a thematic exhibition, interactive displays and workshops for adults and children alike. There are also classes that combine learning and fun for organized groups of children and teenagers. There are three levels in the museum, which teach kids about how chocolate is made -- from picking the beans to storing them -- as well as the techniques for making chocolate. Think Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory come to life!

And of course, what would a chocolate museum be without tastings? There's plenty of that, as well as a great opportunity for kids to design their own boxes for the popular Ptasie Mleczko Wedel chocolate confection!Qaleja Emila Wedla 5, MStadion Narodowy, www.fabrykaczekolady.pl. Open 10:0020:00. 70/55zł.

In addition to bouncy floors, Stacja Grawitacja (p.82) also boasts the best 3D VR gaming experience in Poland!

Warsaw Photoplasticon

Hidden in a darkened pre-war tenement near the train station, a visit here really is a trip back in time. A popular form of entertainment in the pre-cinema era, a ‘photoplasticon’ is basically a 3D peep show (no, not the saucy kind) where visitors sit in front of a viewing station to see vivid photos as they slowly rotate by. Although photoplasticons were quickly made obsolete by moving pictures, this one, which has been located here since 1905, somehow stayed open, surviving the war and even serving as a meeting point for intellectuals during the communist era. Check online to see what’s loaded into the machine (does it matter?). Visiting time: 20mins. QF-8, Al. Jerozolimskie 51, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 60 78, www.fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl. Open 10:00-18:00; closed Tue. Admission 10/6zł; Thu free.

Smart Kids Planet

Young families visiting Warsaw need not worry about wholesome and constructive fun for the kids! Head along to Fabryka Norblina (p.33) and you will find Smart Kids Planet - the first edutainment centre in Poland, that is, a recreational format that bridges the gap between playrooms and science centres. Divided into 9 thematic zones and with over 50 engaging activities throughout, young minds can journey through many different worlds - building construction, food and fresh produce, sports, the magic of machinery and production lines, and right out into the cosmos with their very own designs coming to life before their eyes! Made for children aged from 0-10, this is certainly not a traditional ‘educational’ environment, and that is by no means a bad thing! For children aged 0-10 QD-8, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 727 77 08 80, www.smartkidsplanet.pl. Open 09:00-20:00. U

Warsaw Arcade Museum

This is one for nostalgia and fun-lovers alike! This interactive museum of video games is like a time machine back to the 80s and 90s, with tons of classic video games available to everyone, 120 vintage arcade machines and even the history of arcade games and their evolution over the years. Find arcade classics like Pac Man, Mario, Donkey Kong and much much more. Perfect for a break from the regular tourist attractions, and great for a birthday party, corporate meeting or event, the Warsaw Arcade museum is a must-visit! QAl. Jerozolimskie 200, tel. (+48) 573 999 815, www.warsawarcademuseum.com.

Open 14:00-21:00; Fri 14:00-22:00; Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-20:00. 60/40zł/1h.

Dining in Warsaw

Nowhere is Warsaw’s vibrancy and diversity more apparent than in its progressive culinary scene. What follows are some of the most noteworthy dining establishments in the capital, divided into basic categories with the type of cuisine listed under the venue name; for more options visit our website. In terms of tipping, 10% is standard (easy math). Smacznego!

At Cucina Mia, chef Marcin Sasin wows with incredible, authentic flavors that celebrate the heart of Italian cuisine.

Amar Beirut

utensils Lebanese

Amar Beirut, an iconic Lebanese restaurant in the Norblin Factory, known for its incredible interior and even more incredible culinary offering, opened its doors in 2023. It was inspired, as the owners say, but a celebration of the joy of life and a fascination with good cuisine. Amar Beirut is the embodiment of Lebanese hospitality, with engaging décor and wonderful live music. The restaurant’s menu features hot, locally baked Lebanese breads, authentic falafel, traditional tabbouleh salad, hummus, grilled dishes and desserts that are an integral part of Lebanese culinary culture. Enjoy breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with live entertainment from Thursday to Saturday and a special oriental dance show on Saturday night. Plus, the restaurant bar, located on the rooftop terrace, is sure to amaze with awardwinning bartenders and music and dancing.

QC-8, Żelazna 51/53, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 799 600 700, www.amarbeirut.pl

Open 08:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-02:00. €€€€. i B­6E

MEATing Restaurant

utensils European

This is where meat and seafood lovers meet (pun intended)! Located in the ever-beautiful Mokotów, MEATing offers up seasoned, juicy meat alongside fresh, light seafood in a gorgeous atmosphere. Their main passion is Polish beef, done expertly with modern touches and paired with carefully selected wines. Taste seared, delicious steaks or melt-in-your-mouth carpaccio. Of course surf and turf gets its due here, with light shrimp alongside tasty beef. Other options include shrimp in a white wine sauce with garlic and chili . . . the list goes on! A perfect spot for meeting with friends, a date night or more. This is one you shouldn’t miss.

QH-13, ul. Puławska 16, MPole Mokotowskie, tel. (+48) 453 543 800, www.meating.rest

Open 12:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat 13:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-22:00.

€€€. T­U­B­6

Breakfast & Brunch

For some the direction of the day depends on the ability to eat a good breakfast, so we’ve highlighted some of our favourite places in Warsaw that specialise in śniadania (the Polish word for breakfast). Whether you’re an early bird or a late riser, get a good first feed in the places listed here!

AïOLI Cantine Bar Cafe Deli

A modern city cantine that offers up excellent -- and affordable! -- food! From Monday to Friday, AïOLI serve nutritious breakfasts; order any drink and for 2 euro (that's about 8.80zł) you can choose any breakfast you want. On Saturdays and Sundays, you can grab a coffee for an extra 1zł or really splash out with a glass of prosecco for 5zł with any breakfast item on the menu! And don’t miss their famous homemade aïoli sauce. A 2nd location at ul. Chmielna 26 (p.92) called AïOLI Bread & Apertivo serves up similarly excellent lunch, dinner and breakfasts with great outdoor seating right in the heart of the city. Both are a must-visit for breakfast, lunch and dinner!QF-7, ul. Świętokrzyska 18, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 518 81 93 02, www.aioli. com.pl/en/home-spot. Open 09:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 09:0001:00. €€€. T­U­B­6

Amar Beirut

Amar Beirut, an iconic Lebanese restaurant in the Norblin Factory, is the perfect place to start your day. Breakfast is served daily from 8:00 AM to 12:00 PM, and features freshly baked manakish, labneh, foul, eggs, cheese, za’atar, and warm oven-fresh bread—paired with tea, fresh juices, or aromatic Lebanese coffee

Amar Beirut is the embodiment of Lebanese hospitality, with engaging décor and wonderful live music. Stick around after breakfast for the main menu, including hot baked Lebanese breads, authentic falafel, traditional tabbouleh salad, hummus, grilled dishes and desserts that are an integral part of Lebanese culinary culture.QC-8, Żelazna 51/53, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 799 600 700, www.amarbeirut.pl. Open 08:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 08:0002:00. €€€€. iB­6­E

Nar’s breakfast offering brings the sunny Mediterranean to Warsaw with light, fresh bites.

Nar Restaurant

Brighten up your weekend brunch plans with authentic, savory and sweet Mediterranean food straight from the delicious Nar Restaurant. The bold flavors really stand out here: light and flavorful mezze dishes with yogurt, fresh and fluffy bread and more. A popular dinner and lunch spot, Nar also shines at breakfast, held between 10:00 and 14:00 all week with dishes unlike offerings anywhere else in the city. Dine on some Turkish poached eggs in a bed of savory yogurt with crispy sticks of phyllo dough, halloumi, jam and more. Or try some delicious eggs baked with savory sausage and an array of vegetables and cheeses on the side.QF-9, ul. Żurawia 47/49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 451 012 922, www.narrestaurant.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Fri 12:0024:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-24:00*. Breakfast is served Sat&Sun 10:00-14:00. €€€. iB­6

Nova Wola

Located within the elegant Crowne Plaza Hotel, Nova Wola encourages a wholesome start to your day in Warsaw, with a fresh and organic breakfast selection as part of its impressive modern Polish menu offer (p.100). Served mainly for guests of the hotel, the breakfast will run you 110 zł. Whether you opt for the breakfast buffet or à la carte, you’ll find light and healthy options crafted from local and seasonal ingredients. The breakfast menu includes favorites like omelettes with customizable add-ins, shakshouka, brioche with smoked salmon, avocado and fried egg, and oatmeal with coconut milk. Nova Wola also offers baked sweet potatoes with yogurt, berries, and granola, as well as hummus with roasted vegetables, avocado and egg.QC-8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 377 38 01, www.novawola.com. Open 06:30-10:30; Sat, Sun 06:30-11:00. €€€€. T­U

Purr Purr

This all-day restaurant is also the ultimate cozy breakfast spot, thanks to a fluffy Cat Team and delectable food and drinks! Find a number of excellent, unique offerings here, like ruby matcha lattes that combine ruby chocolate with matcha and homemade cream cheese. Warm teas like the beloved winter tea can also be found here, as can a number of excellent breakfast bites like fluffy Japanese pancakes and dango, a traditional Japanese sweet treat. Of course, don’t forget the biggest draw -- the furry kitties who will lounge and keep you company (and warm amid the cold outside)!QD-2, ul. Pokorna 2/U4, MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 573 538 888. Open 11:00-21:00; Mon 12:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00.€€. i­6U

Stacja Caffe

Bounce your way on over to some tasty food as you enjoy one of Warsaw’s best activity parks! Located right in the oh-so-popular Stacja Grawitacja trampoline (and more) center is this charming cafe, which serves everything from mozzarella and pesto sandwiches, to egg breakfasts, gnocchi meals and an array of smoothies! It’s the perfect break after a fun day (and a workout!) jumping around the activity center, which includes a trampoline park, a climbing wall, a ropes course, and way more. Fuel up at the cafe and head back out for more fun!Qal. Bohaterów Września 12, tel. (+48) 726 13 06 66, www.stacjagrawitacja.pl/warszawa/bistro/menustacja-caffe/. Open 10:00-22:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00.

€€T­6­i

Syrena Irena

Polish food abounds in Warsaw -- you can get pierogi all over the place. But when it comes to really good, really modern Polish food, you have to know where to look and Syrena Irena is the place to start. By focusing on making really excellent handcrafted pierogi, the chefs of this iconic space have honed their craft to a science. On the menu find a variety of pierogi you won’t find elsewhere—sweet dumplings with plums in brown butter and sugar, and savory ones with duck and plum—and then customize that order with any number of toppings from caramalized onion to “mermaid sauce.” It’s named after the iconic Syrena (siren or mermaid) of Warsaw, and this spot has a ton of little modern touches, from the art to the neon signs to the high ceilings. This spot is not only delicious, it’s photo-worthy too!QG-6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6, MNowy Świat, tel. (+48) 535 851 991, www.syrenairena.pl. Open 09:00-20:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00-22:00. €€. U­B­6

Nova Wola's breakfast menu is always impressive.

Casual dining

Sometimes you just need a casual and convenient place to relax, enjoy good food, vibes and hospitality. The following venues deliver in that regard. While our listed opening hours seem self-explanatory, be aware that some venues close their doors if business is slow, while others stay open after the kitchen has closed. In such cases, the hours we list are for the kitchen.

AïOLI Bread & Apertivo

utensils International

We've already talked about the incredibleness of the two AïOLI restaurants ( see AïOLI Cantine on p. 90) when it comes to their breakfast offerings. But What about their lunch and dinner? Well, there's plenty to be said for those options, too. If you come midday, try the three-course lunch deal and sample some amazing coffees from a local roastery. If you come in the afternoon/evening, don't miss the delectable Mega Strawberry Margarita (the strawberry taste is so flavorful) and the Pornstar cocktails. The food offerings range from steaks to burgers to pasta, and their outdoor seating is perfect for a summer afternoon or evening with friends.QF-8, ul. Chmielna 26, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 575 737 760, www.aioli.com.pl/en/home-spot

Open 09:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 09:00-01:00. €€€. T­U­B­6

Symbol & Price Key

utensils Category of Cuisine E Live music

Banjaluka

utensils Balkan

This central spot, open for nearly 22 years will welcome you in with open arms and make sure you feel at home. Choose from all kinds of amazing Balkan food like juicy, well-seasoned meats, stuffed peppers with cheese, and roast beef u rakija sljivovici (aka filled with plum rakija). Among the offerings is the legendary 20-centimeter Gurmanska Pljeskavica - a large, traditionally Balkan beef patty. And don’t just come here for the food - the experience itself is great, too! Especially because they have live music every evening, along with a colorful, magical outdoor garden.QF-7, ul. Szkolna 2/4, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 60, www.banjaluka.pl. Open 16:0000:00; Mon 16:00-23:00; Fri 16:00-01:00; Sat 12:0001:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€. T­E­6

C-1 Map Coordinate N Credit cards not accepted

M Metro o Year-round garden

T Child-friendly X Smoking room available

U Facilities for the disabled 6 Animal friendly

€ most mains under 35zł

€€ most mains 35–55zł

€€€ most mains 55–80zł

€€€€ most mains 80–120zł

€€€€€ most mains over 120zł

Beef n’ Pepper has juicy cuts of steak paired with mouthwatering sides, all in a classy atmosphere.

Beef n’ Pepper

utensils Steak

Hidden away in a small alleyway alongside the famous Roma Theatre, the exterior may look like you’re about to enter a 1970’s Texas shopping mall, but inside it’s a smart, urban steakhouse and bar. The quality of the cuts here is excellent (28 days wet-aged or 30 days dry-aged) and the fact that they use the finest local meats means the prices are surprisingly reasonable. Seafood and Louisiana Chicken Wings struggle for a look-in as beef rules. In addition to a fine wine list, the slick bar has a brilliant selection of whiskies and bourbons, and there’s live music every Tuesday from 19:00. Plus, there’s a summer garden through September! QF-9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 785 02 50 25, www.beefandpepper.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. €€€€.

T­U­E­6

Bierhalle

utensils International

Inspired by the brewhouses of Bavaria, Bierhalle is an original concept that combines original beer produced on-site with mouthwatering cuisine brought to the table by talented and traditionallyfrocked waitstaff. A popular franchise all over Poland, guests will get to try several flavours of delicious ale (served in enormous steins), and see also see the brewing process in action. The menu offers a variety of dishes from Poland, from homemade dumplings to oven-baked pork knuckle, oven-baked salmon, chicken salads and much, much more. QC-2, Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 601 67 79 62, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-20:00. €€€. T­U­B

Bliski

Wschód Vege Street Food & Cocktail Bar

utensils Vegetarian & Vegan

If you're one to think flavor only comes from dishes with meat, let Bliski Wschód dispell that notion right now. This all-vegetarian restaurant packs a flavor punch with meals inspired by cuisines of Lebanon, Turkey, Israel, Tunisia and Egypt. And while you dine on a savory halloumi burger or a crispy bite of falafel, you can admire the gorgeous interior, with delightful design elements that add to the overall atmosphere of the Middle Eastern space. Plus, there are two levels and VIP rooms for smaller parties.

QF-8, ul. Złota 11, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 668 01 69 79, www.bliskiwschodvege.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Mon 12:00–21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00–23:00; Sun 12:00–21:00. €€. X­T­U­o­6

The last secrects of comunist cuisine...

“Czerwony Wieprz” was recommended by The New York Times as the best Polish cuisine restaurant and included in a list of 10 reasons to visit Warsaw.

Czerwony Wieprz Restaurant 68 Żelazna Street, Warsaw Booking: +48 22 850 31 44

BursztyNova Restaurant

utensils International

A one-of-a-kind restaurant in Poland’s capital city, offers a delicious array of creamy, earthy, floral, sharp and overall delicious cheeses that will delight your senses, all highlighted in excellent, cheese-forward dishes. BurztyNova Restaurant belongs to one of the largest dairies in Poland, which produces long-aged cheeses like Bursztyn, Szafir and Rubin. They aim to give you the full cheese experience, with a menu that includes lots of cheese recipes like pastas, sauces, appetizers and more. Taste a jucy fall-off-thebone cut of meat topped with lightly grated cheese, or a bed of perfectly roasted vegetables topped with a light mozzarella, and more.QE-6, ul. Królewska 16, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 519 310 110, www.bursztynovarestauracja.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€€. U­B­E­6

Ciao Napoli

utensils Italian

Located a short distance away from the Old Town Square (p.44), Ciao Napoli succeeds in bringing a little piece of Naples to the centre of Warsaw. Offering a selection of antipasti, salads, piadina, panuozzo and desserts, it’s the Neapolitan pizzas, with their fantastic thin and crispy dough, which

really distinguish this small family-run franchise. The friendly atmosphere and cosiness of the restaurant also makes an impact, despite its popularity and the fact that its at the heart of one of the capital’s biggest tourist hotspots. Their second location at ul. Piwna 40/42 (F-4) has weekday lunch specials from 12:0016:00.QF-4, ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 508 69 43 52, www.ciaonapoli.pl. Open 12:0022:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€. T­B­6

Cucina Mia

utensils Italian

Taste a wide range of flavors like Amalfi lemons, Umbriaco cheese soaked in red wine, earthy black truffles, salty and savory ham, and fresh mussles and red prawns straight off a Sicilian fishing boat. In short, the food here is the real Italian deal. The restaurant has even reintroduced a 300-year-old recipe created in a small Italian town. Plus, the flavors are complemented by top-shelf wines and exquisite, rich desserts. And it’s all created by experienced chef Deniele Pampagnin, who boasts an impressive resume that includes restaurants in Mykonos, Ibiza and London, along with Michelin-recognized Chef Lorenzo Robustelli. QH-9, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Grand Warsaw), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 450 61 00, www.cucinamia.pl. Open 08:00-24:00. €€€. U­B­E

Czerwony Wieprz

utensils Polish

Legend has it that even Lenin paid this place a visit in 1909. The interior is based on the style favoured by the 1950’s -1960’s party elite, and the walls are bedecked with memorabilia of the era. Somehow the owners have managed to carefully side swerve tackiness and the whole experience has a lovely, faded and nostalgic glam to it. Immensely popular with locals and tourists alike (including Bruce Willis, Lennox Lewis and the Real Madrid football squad).

The restaurant closes at 23:00 daily, except for Sundays when it closes at 22:00.QC-7, ul. Żelazna 68, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 850 31 44, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:0022:00. €€€. T­U­B

Daebak

utensils Asian

The ultimate place for grab-and-go, authentic Korean food that really lives up to its name (Daebak means “wow” in Korean!) This spot, located near the University of Warsaw Library serves up authentic Korean bento boxes -- essentially a tradtional packed lunch, separated into different parts. Each box contains rice, 4 banchan (side dishes), one main course and fruit for dessert. Plus, you get to

customize your own, with a choice of four main courses (1 vegetarian), sides and more. Order off the self-service screen and come back in two days for whole-new offerings!QH-5, ul. Dobra 53, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, www.instagram.com/daebak.wawa. Open 12:00-21:00. €€. B­6

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi

utensils Polish

You can’t visit the capital of Poland without trying some traditional Polish food, right? Gościniec has just that - hearty soups, plump dumplings, potato pancakes and various cutlets - all prepared ‘as they should be’ and at very reasonable prices. You can’t go wrong with pierogi, but we’d personally recommend the pork chops or cabbage rolls stuffed with meat (known locally as gołąbki: go-womp-ki). The drinks on offer are quite funky (cold/hot options), and it’s all served up by friendly staff wearing folk attire. Additional locations at ul. Nowy Świat 43 (G-7), and deep in the Old Town at ul. Podwale 19 and ul. Piwna 14 (F-4).QG-5, ul.

Krakowskie Przedmieście 29, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 273 69 36, www.gosciniec.waw.pl. Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00. €€. T­B­6

Gospoda pod Zygmuntem

utensils Polish

With locations on the happening Nowy Świat street and another near the Old Town Square, this veteran Polish restaurant is as simple and traditional as it gets. A good option for tourists, families and anyone looking for their first foray into Polish cuisine, the modestly-priced, bilingual menu includes photos of almost every dish. There is a lot to choice, from classics like pierogi, potato pancakes with goulash and mushroom soup served in a bread bowl, to old school staples that have dropped off most modern menus like tripe soup and chicken livers with fried onions and baked apples. Also at ul.Świętojańska 15Q G - 7, ul. Nowy Świat 41, M Nowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 428 39 43, www.gospoda.waw.pl . Open 11:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00-23:00. €€. T­B­6

Namaste India

utensils Indian

What began as a modest Indian-owned grocery store almost two decades ago has developed into multiple full-service restaurants. This - the expanded original location - remains the consensus best Indian food in the capital, just ask anyone who lives here. The prices are set so low you can’t help but wonder what’s the catch - there isn’t one; we’ve tried the entire menu and it’s all delicious. Consider ringing ahead for

Casual | Dining

takeaway because waiting times can be torture and ask about booking their private room for parties and meetings.QG-8, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. Open 11:0023:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€. T

Nar Restaurant

utensils Mediterranean

Nar Restaurant brings authentic Mediterranean food straight from the sunny, stunning land of Mardin, to a little atmospheric restaurant in Warsaw! The bold flavors really stand out here: light and flavorful mezze dishes with yogurt and marinated eggplant, juicy bites of grilled lamb and vegetables, perfectly seasoned slices of grilled beef.... Lunches are served here from Monday through Friday between 12:00 and 16:00, and the breakfasts (between 10:00 and 14:00) are amazing and unlike most other breakfast offerings in the city. On Saturday nights from 19:30 you can enjoy a special Raki menu alongside some live music. Q F - 9, ul. Żurawia 47/49, M Centrum, tel. (+48) 451 012 922, www.narrestaurant.pl . Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00-24:00. €€€. B­6­i

PaTaThai Powiśle

utensils Thai

At this popular Powiśle restaurant, each dish is a story that’s inspired by every corner of Thailand, from the mountains in the north, to busy city streets, to the idyllic beaches. And the flavors of these exquisite dishes will transport you to each place. Try some juicy duck or savory and flavorful curry. Seafood, tofu, chicken and more are all here and all bursting with authentic Thai flavors. Bonus, this spot in Elektrownia Powiśle is a family-friendly place with a separate menu for kids, so you’ll easily find something for everyone. You can even visit with your dog!QI-7, ul. Zajęcza 2b, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 574 118 104, www.patathai.pl/lokale/powisle/. Open 12:0022:00; Thu 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00. €€€ 6

PierOgarnia utensils Polish

Located right in the heart of Warsaw, these are authentic, handmade pierogi done really well. You’ll find all the classic flavors here, from cheese and potato, to mushroom and cabbage, to meat and of course, spinach. The thing that sets this place apart is the flavor and the locally sourced ingredients. If you’re looking for good, authentic pierogi on your adventures around the city, this is the place to go. QF-8, ul. Złota 11, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 668 01 69 80, www.instagram.com/pierogarniazlota11. Open 12:00–20:00. €€. T­B­6

PRIMITIVO

Kuchnia i Wino

utensils Mediterranean

An original take on Mediterranean cuisine plus, the biggest Primitivo wine collection? Sign us up! The dishes themselves as well as many ingredients come from the Mediterranean basin and other ingredients are locally sourced. Chefs focus on 3-ingredient dishes that allow them to highlight the expert preparation and quality food. The restaurant design itself is also a huge attraction. With muted, earthy tones and wood, stone, ceramic and glass elements in the design, Primitivo is reminiscent not only of the earth and the natural world, but also of some of the most sought-after dining experiences around the globe (this one is for the foodies: the restaurant was modeled after famed Copenhagen restaurant NOMA). QD-7, ul. Waliców 13, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 606 444 462, www.primitivo.com.pl. Open 12:0022:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€€. T­U­B­6

Purr Purr

utensils Asian

Have you ever wanted to see adorable cats roaming around, taking naps and being cute while you enjoy a mug of matcha or a bite of bibimbap at one of the coziest spots in the city? You’re in luck! This adorable cat cafe and restaurant is home to all of those things, but the real draw, of course, is cuteness! There are no reservations so make sure to get here early and grab a mug of tea or matcha (served in different flavors!), or a bite of onigiri as you sink into a comfy armchair and watch the cats roaming around. Feline-fanatics, this is your place! For the cat part, they ask that visitors be 12 and older, and remember that the Cat Team have a rest day on Monday! While they’re away, Purr Purr features an 8% discount on menu items to brighten your day QD-2, ul. Pokorna 2/U4, MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 573 538 888, www. instagram.com/purrpurr.wawa. Open 11:00-21:00; Mon 12:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-21:00. €€. U­6­i

Setki Powodów

utensils International

A fantastic neighbor of Warsaw’s Polish Vodka Museum, Setki Powodów (Hundreds of Reasons) guarantees live music and an impressive food menu, with plenty of things to nosh on as you listen and enjoy a drink. Setki Powodów offers international cuisine in a comfy street-food style with amazing burgers, pastrami sandwiches and seafood. Relax as you taste delectable dishes, listen to live music, and take in surroundings reminiscent of the nearby Neon Museum (this place is well-lit and beautiful with artistic neon lighting). Consume as you wish, and enjoy the small-but-punchy live music

stage in the corner. of reasons” but there are thousands of reasons to come here.

Koneser), www.setkipowodow.pl Thu 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-01:00; Sun 12:00-21:00; closed Mon. €€.

Syrena Irena

utensils

When it comes to really good, really modern Polish food, Syrena Irena is the place to start. By focusing on really excellent handcrafted pierogi, the chefs of this iconic space have honed their craft to a science. On the menu find a variety of pierogi you won’t find elsewhere and then customize that order with any number of toppings from caramalized onion to “mermaid sauce.”

(siren or mermaid) of Warsaw, and this spot has a ton of little modern touches.

Przedmieście 4/6, 991, Sat 09:00-22:00. €€.

U Barssa

utensils

The Old Town is packed with places to eat, but this is one of the few truly great. As you walk from the market square into the elegant dining room, you will discover a world of luxury, craft and privilege. The signature duck baked with beetroot, fried apples and cranberry sauce, and the Angus steak with green pepper are just two of the winning dishes on the menu, and we have to mention the outstanding wine list. In the summer, they also have a huge summer garden!

M

ubarssa.pl

Zwierciadło utensils

Located in the Flaner Hotel on Krakowskie Przedmieście, Zwierciadło presents a as a tribute to Warsaw, with dishes inspired by those from the owners’ childhood. It also brings classic cocktails upgraded with Warsaw craft gin and vermouth. Find dishes rich in flavor and aroma that come from traditional recipes and modern interpretations. They’re all based on seasonal products and products from local suppliers. In the atmospherically decorated space, you can enjoy lunch, dinner or a stellar cocktail.

Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6, (+48) 22 123 62 62, Open 12:00-22:00. €€€.

Fine dining

If you want to splash out on some of Warsaw's finest cuisine, we definitely have you covered - testing the food was our pleasure. Whether you're looking for the right venue to impress a potential client, romantic partner or celebrate any kind of special moment, the following pages will keep you right. Bear in mind that reservations are almost essential in any of these venues.

Belvedere

utensils Polish

Located inside the ‘New Orangery’ in the middle of Łazienki Park, Belvedere is one of Warsaw’s most prestigious and romantic restaurants. Essentially a mid-19th century greenhouse, this spectacular venue features floor-to-ceiling windows and is filled with tropical plants, including an over 100-year-old palm tree. Elegant, intimate table settings are placed amongst the indoor foliage, as well as outside, where peacocks wander the grounds. The food lives up to the first-rate atmosphere, with a concise menu of fresh seafood, meats and seasonal dishes, and a brunch menu is served Sundays. A glance at the prices reveals this is hardly a place to drop in after a day in the park; this is one for a very special occasion. QI-12, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in Łazienki Park, entrance from ul. Parkowa), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 606 10 20 02, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open 12:0023:00; Sun 12:00-16:30. €€€€. T­B­E

Der Elefant

utensils International

Opened back in 1990, this long-running establishment is spread over various rooms and floors, with a choice of dining experiences. From the street you’ll find their diner-style seafood bar with plenty of fresh fish; alternatively, enter through the courtyard to find a mock shop inside which you’ll see the chefs racing to fill the rapid flow of orders. The concise but diverse menu offers a choice of hot and cold starters (including the recommended Hemingway’s Oyster), burgers, steaks, seafood and some salad and pasta options. They also have a MonFri lunch offer of soup, entree and dessert for 39zł between 12:00 and 15:00. An attractive layout and prices lower than you would expect considering the location make Der Elefant insanely popular.QE-5, Pl. Bankowy 1, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 890 00 10, www.derelefant.pl. Open 12:00-00:00; Sun 12:00-23:00. €€€. T­U­E

Incredible atmosphere and extravagant flair: U Fukiera (p. 101) is a historic restaurant in the Old Town, offering an exceptional experience.

Elixir by Dom Wódki

utensils Polish

When we first heard of Elixir we instinctively thought, surely someone has already imagined this? Unbelievably, nobody had - so, top marks to the masterminds behind this classy establishment. At their Vodka Atelier, you can try some 800 vodkas from around Poland and the globe; the range goes from PRL era classics to Polish ‘small batch’ distillers, designer vodkas, and flavoured vodkas. Also offered are six different types of Młody Ziemniak from young potatoes) with varieties dating from 2017 (49 zł) to 2022 (25zł). The label of each tells you about the vintage and what the weather and climate were like during its production. Elixir by Dom Wódki

The restaurant itself features stunningly presented, contemporary, and takes on Polish classics with a unique food and vodka pairing system, which recommends specific vodkas to complement the ingredients and flavours of each dish! Such a system is unrivaled anywhere in Poland and the world at large, so this spot is an Absolut (pardon the pun!) top-spot and a truly unique venue on Warsaw’s culinary map. Wierzbowa 9/11, M Ratusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 11, www.restauracjaelixir.pl . Open 12:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-22:00. €€€€.

InAzia

utensils Asian

Take a delicious journey East with chef Marcin Sasin offering an array of dishes from throughout Asia (think Thailand to Singapore, China to Vietnam). Expect elegant dishes bursting with color adorned with fresh herbs and spices like lemongrass and coriander, as well as an insight into the process thanks to their Omakase-style dinner. a special window that allows you to watch the kitchen in action and chat with the chefs, leading to a perfectly tailored menu. Sleek interiors abound, as do fantastic tasting menus. One of the top Asian restaurants you’ll find in the whole city. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Grand Warsaw), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 450 67 06, www.restauracja-inazia.pl 17:00-23:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. U

KUK Restaurant by Maciej Majewski utensils Polish

Culinary artistry gets up close and personal with the sophistication and essence of Warsaw’s history, as KUK embraces both a natural and local approach to its menu. Their dishes indulge the taste buds with a range of wholesome ingredients and products, all sourced from trusted crops and seasonal delights just as they were by the discerning

A

ul. Waliców 13

+48 606 44 44 62

rezerwacje@primitivo.com.pl

foodie class of the Polish Renaissance! Chef Maciej Majewski challenges the term ‘restaurant’ for his passion project - for him, it’s a celebration of time and cuisine, where imagination knows no bounds, and exceptional dishes are a testament to that philosophy. He embraces the ‘neobistro’ style of dining with a haute cuisine approach. The result is an imaginative and open-minded approach to crafting one-of-a-kind culinary compositions, presented to you, the discerning diner, to share, experience, and connect over an array of small, yet numerous and delightful portions!Qul. Miodowa 6/8, MNowy ŚwiatUniwersytet, tel. (+48) 511 46 46 45, www.hotelverte. com/kuk. Open 17:00-23:00; Sat, Sun 12:00-23:00. €€€€.

X­T­U­E­6

Nova Wola

utensils Polish

Garnering the Grand Award (that is, 5 forks) from the prestigious gastronomic list of Poland 100 Best Restaurants, Nova Wola encapsulates the spirit of central-west Warsaw’s restlessly developing, trendsetting Wola district, and absolutely nails the concept of ‘premium casual’ dining. Residing within the luxury Crowne Plaza Hotel (part of the ‘Warsaw- The HUB’ complex), complete with an industrial chic interior of polished concrete, dark woods, gold furnishings, lots of glass and big city views, it is here that Nova Wola delivers a decidedly modern take on Polish cuisine. Under Executive Chef Paweł Suchenek’s direction, the menu emphasizes simple plates made with high-quality ingredients sourced from local Polish suppliers and foraged in the wild. Local culinary traditions with contemporary flair offer you a choice of rich soups, premium Polish seasoned beef steaks, fish, and amongst others, a special seasonal menu, with many of the entrees and even soups available in larger portions ideal for sharing. It's an upscale approach with a relaxed, sociable atmosphere. Read about Nova Wola’s breakfast on p.90.QC-8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 377 38 01, www. novawola.com. Open 12:30-16:00, 17:00-22:30. €€€.

T­U

Moonsfera

utensils International

One of best restaurants in the city, Moonsfera’s head chef, and owner, is Jarosław Uściński, the President of the Polish Association of chefs and bakers. So it’s safe to say he takes cuisine fairly seriously. The menu is filled with a mix of Polish/International dishes made with the chef’s own personal touch, both modern and elegant, and it shows as soon as you stare wide eyed at your plate as it’s placed

in front of you. Try savory dishes like caramelized goat cheese, deer tartare with wild mushrooms, and much more -- or choose from their incredible pasta menu like black tagliatelle with prawns. The meat and fish also shine here, of course! A great place to eat and relax, but also somewhere you can also take part in cooking classes. We like that, making the experience inclusive. Here, here.QE-2, ul. Bonifraterska 17, MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 22 560 37 33, www.moonsfera.pl. Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00. €€€. T­U­E­6

U Fukiera

utensils Polish

Warsaw’s oldest and most famous restaurant, with a tradition going all the way back to the 16th century, is truly a must-see. Run under the star stewardship of Magda Gessler (of Polish MasterChef fame), this enchanting establishment’s interior is a work of art, bedecked with oil paintings and ornate antiques, creating a fantastic ambience. It’s easy to feel like you’re a part of history when dining here, and the guestbook - with such haughty names as Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Fergusonsuggests that indeed you are. The menu itself is simultaneously classy, traditional and modern, with dishes like chanterelles in a cream sauce, beetroot carpaccio with dill, sirloin with potato dumplings and a pepper sauce, and much much more -- all perfectly prepared, all perfectly Polish. Right on the Old Town Square, enjoy the delicious, gorgeously presented food and soak up the regal atmosphere that has made this spot so beloved (and famous). And don’t forget to document your experience with pictures!QF-4, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 600 99 99 33, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00-23:00. €€€€. T­6

U Kucharzy w Arsenale

utensils Polish

Located in a 17th-century building once used as a royal arms warehouse, this long-running restaurant boasts a contemporary interior infused with greenery, while still highlighting the space’s historic elements. The kitchen staff operate on a huge island in the middle, and watching these masters prepare your meal is good theatre. Enjoy along with delicious soups like chicken and beef, ruby barscht, and sour rye, or other tasty bites like pork chops and beef or duck steaks. Plus, make sure to catch. their live classical piano music on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday from 19:00-21:00. Q E - 5, ul. Długa 52, M Ratusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 885 88 61 50, www.ukucharzy.pl . Open 12:00-22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00-23:00. €€€. T­U­E

Food Markets

The garden at Elektrownia Powiśle is one of the best places to be in the summer: full of life, great company and even better food.

The popularity of street food and fast gastro concepts has led to an explosion of food markets and indoor dining halls in Warsaw, offering dozens of diverse eating options. Not only a place to slay your hunger, these modern food markets are also trendsetting urban social spaces, featuring bars and hosting events.

Elektrownia Powiśle Food Hall

From the outside, it’s obvious that this former power station (p.56) has been given a new boost of energy following a major overhaul. Elektrownia also contains a whole host of gastro eateries, bars and event spaces. This central food court allows you to choose anything from fries, hot dogs, dim sum dumplings, kebabs, pizza, sushi, curries, Vietnamese, potatoes, fancy pancakes and San Francisco street food. Additionally, there are several more restaurants in the office buildings opposite! You’re spoilt for choice, so let your mood and budget decide (not easy!). Once you’re done dining, check out their five bars, and also keep a regular eye on their events calendar so you don’t miss hip foodie happenings like their ‘Eko Targ’ (Eco Market), selling GMO-free locally-grown produce. QH-6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com

Open 12:00-23:00; Fri 12:00-24:00; Sat 11:00-24:00; Sun 11:00-23:00. U­6

Food Hall Browary

Occupying a large, brick-walled space in the historic Brewery Cellars, this impressive food hall is arguably the social centre of the Browary Warszawskie district (p.33). With 13 different world cuisines to choose from - ranging from Tuk Tuk's authentic Thai cuisine to Octo, which offer pasta, pizza, seafood and more. there are plenty of enticing options, including special lunch offers.

The focal points are the impressively long Central Bar - well-stocked with beer, fine wine, and cool cocktails courtesy of legendary local bartender Karim Bibars, and the small stage which hosts DJs, bands and a range of thematic events. Grab a seat at a communal table, a plate of good food, and get socialising.QC-7, ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2 (Browary Warszawskie), MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.foodhallbrowary.pl

Open 12:00-22:00; Wed, Thu, 12:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 12:002:00. 6T

FOOD TOWN - Fabryka Norblina

Inspired by architectural and culinary trends from all over the world, FOOD TOWN in Fabryka Norblina is ideally situated across five picturesque historic halls, spanning a total area of 3,200 sqm. This unique place, characterised by its stunning period architecture, comes together with a soundtrack of live music and an incredible gastronomic offer that will rouse the palate of every guest that passes through. Food Town at the Norblin Factory is the largest catering zone of its kind in Warsaw, with plenty of gastrononomic concepts, taking you on a culinary journey through Europe, the Middle East, Asia and the Americas. Stepping aside from the wild gastronomic offer, you'll also discover tantalising alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages served in five thematic bars. There's also a stunning ambiance with low lighting, indoor and outdoor options and plenty more. The fifth hall of Fabryka Norblina that coexists alongside Food Hall is dedicated to entertainment and cultural events, taking place across the week – live music, stand-ups and exhibitions. Everything is truly going on here, especially if you want to have a perfect night out!.

QC/D-8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.foodtown.pl. Open Mon, Tue 08:00-22:00; Wed, Thu 08:00-23:00; Fri 08:00-01:00; Sat 09:00-01:00; Sun 09:00-22:00. Bars are open one hour longer. T­U­6

Hala Koszyki

This historic Art Nouveau market hall originally opened in 1906, but was renovated, redeveloped into a modern mixed-use facility full of bars, restaurants, bookstores and designer boutiques, and reopened in 2016. Smashingly popular, drop in to the ground floor dining area to choose from dozens of diverse options, ranging from top-class independent bistros - like Sobremesa Tapas Bar, Port Royal and Zachodni Brzeg - to some of Warsaw’s top name gastro brands, like Ćma and Warszawski Sen. If you want a variety of casual, tasty food, this is the place to go, with everything from fries to burgers to gelato. But there are fancier options to choose from, too (oysters and pizza are easily found and they are a must). This is one of THE places to be seen in the capital - easily accomplished thanks to the open floor plan - sometimes the place is so packed that mere availability and access dictate which places inside that you’re able to patronage. Even if you can’t find a table at any of the cool eateries and bars, we urge you to spend some time taking in this stunning market hall, which also features shops downstairs and space for cultural events upstairs. Beautiful details abound! QF-10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00-01:00. X­T­U­6

From Japanese food to pasta, there are a plethora of delicious bites at Food Town Norblin.

Nightlife in Warsaw

In Warsaw you’re never far from a great night out. If the weather’s warm, simply head to the river. Elsewhere skint students patronise the dive bars of The Pavilions (G-7, courtyards of ul. Nowy Świat 22/28); for a more mature alternative crowd seek out the artsy bars across the river in Praga (p.64); for a lark with the lads, hit the party strip on ul. Mazowiecka (F-6/7). In practice, bars will stay open well past their given hours if business is good, but also bolt the doors early if not. Visit our website to refine your search and see more reviews. Na zdrowie (cheers!)!

Balkan food bursting with flavor, incredible cocktails and a magical garden are all found at Banjaluka (p.92).

Enklawa Art & Music Club Club

A living legend of the Polish capital that always has a finger on the pulse, Enklawa, located in the very heart of Warsaw, has spent the last 20 years hosting some of the city’s wildest cult dance parties, and, even today, it continues to provide a calendar of hotly pursued events. Starting on Wednesdays and operating over four nights of the week, this classy premises exudes style and modernity, and its spacious rooms are brought to life every evening with the highest quality sound and lighting systems on offer. Enklawa is the place to be. With a diverse music cycle that keeps both locals and visitors coming back to be in a space of non-stop good vibes, there's a reason why Enklawa tops the list as one of Warsaw's most popular clubs!

QF-6, ul. Mazowiecka 12, MNowy Świat-Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 606 31 11 17, www.enklawa.com

Open Wed, Thu 22:00-04:00; Fri, Sat 22:00-06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. X­U­E

Okocim Grill&Bar Beer Pub

Cocktail Bar

The ultimate bar for sports fans! Okocim serves up some killer BBQ, along with Polish beers and spirits from around the world. Nosh on tender steaks, fall-off-the-bone ribs and juicy burgers as you watch games and matches from around the world broadcast on their TVs.

Plus, for those of us who don’t love meandering outside the bounds of Centrum, this place is really well located. It’s right in the heart of Warsaw at Ul. Wilcza 35/41 and offers up two bars, a VIP room and a seasonal beer garden.

They’re also popular for parties -- everything from bachelor and bachelorettes to birthdays and coprporate events. This is the classic pub for anyone who just wants to have a chill, fun time.

QG-9, Wilcza 35/41, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 621 35 06, www.okocimbeer.pub.

Open 14:00-24:00; Fri 14:00-01:00; Sat 15:00-01:00; Sun 15:00-23:00; closed Mon. X­U­B­6

Bars & Clubs

3/4 Koneser Bar

Cocktail Bar

If you’re eager to experience Polish vodka the right way (sip, don’t shoot!), go straight to the source. Located on the 3rd floor of the Polish Vodka Museum (p.65), this spectacular bar makes dozens of their own artisanal alcohol infusions - raspberry with rosemary, horseradish, or mango lassi are just a few of their surprising and constantly changing flavours. The current concept is based on the sense of touch and sight, fabrics, colours and texture. The lovely seasonal terrace offers great views of the heart of Praga and you can also try a premium whisky tasting from The Secret Speyside Collection. Na zdrowie!QK-2/3, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 52, www.koneserbar.pl. Open 16:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 15:00-01:00; Sun 15:00-23:00; closed Mon, Tue. Subject to change. U­B­6

Symbol Key

Amar Beirut Rooftop Bar

Cocktail Bar

Amar Beirut, the incredible Lebanese restaurant offerin delicious dishes and incredible atmosphere, also offers another big selling point: a stellar rooftop bar. Unwind in the afternoon sun and see the switch from morning cocktails to evening drinks. Try delicious signature cocktails with Lebanese flair -- made by top-tier bartenders, along with an extensive shisha menu, live entertainment, and latenight partying under the stars. This is the ultimate place to be during the warm summer nights. There's plenty of great food to be had here, too (see p.89) in the form of classic Lebanese cuisine like tabbouleh, incredible mezze and great grilled meats. A true must-visit!QŻelazna 51/53, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 799 600 700, www.amarbeirut.pl. Open 08:00-23:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-02:00. i B­6E

Credit cards not accepted

Facilities for the disabled

Enklawa is where Warsaw finds its rhythm. (p.105).

Champs Sports Bar

Sports Bar

This is the perfect spot for sitting back, noshing on delicious food and watching the game! This sports-themed restaurant offers up Tex-Mex and a wide selection of drinks in a casual environment (including a lovely garden in the summer). But the real kicker (pun intended) is the restaurant’s 7 TVs, which means this is the perfect spot to watch the match with some friends. Or a lot of friends -- in fact, this restaurant can seat up to 140 people and 20 people in the garden! They regularly organize events and it’s all pet-friendly, so you can bring your furry pal along! QI-6, ul. Wybrzeze Kosciuszkowskie 43a, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik. Open 10:00-23:00.

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Figa z Makiem Cheese Box Bar

Wine Bar

Figa z Makiem (Fig with Poppies) Cheese Box Bar offers an array of delectable snacks from all over the world, with a special focus on cheese (and the best wine to pair with it), including sheep, goat, cow, Italian, Spanish and French. If you dont want to try the wine and cheese there, you can grab an elegant take-out box that includes cheese (of course), a bottle of wine and a card! The take out option is great for presents and the dining in option means you can have an intimate moment with friends (or by yourself) over a glass of wine and some of the best snacks around! QK-2/3, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński. Open 11:00-20:00; Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:0020:00. ­B­­6

La Playa NEW Beach

Club

This Vistula-hugging beach club and beer garden lures throngs of the young and beautiful. Featuring several bars, a covered stage, plenty of seating and Caribbean vibes, a variety of diverse DJ nights are in store, with a heavy emphasis on Latin beats during the weekends, when the samba and salsa crowd take over the outdoor dance floor. Zumba and salsa classes are available to assist those with two left feet. If dancing the night away isn’t really your thing, how about frisbee, beach volleyball, badminton or boules? There’s even fire dancing and other incredible sights on select Saturdays. Of course, the cocktail list is extensive and the views of the Old Town across the water are priceless. Check Facebook for opening times and closed events.QG-3, ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 506 822 482, www.laplaya.pl. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri 17:00-02:00; Sat 13:00-03:00; Sun 13:00-01:00; closed Mon. Open June to end of August. B­6EX

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Bars & Clubs | Nightlife

Pepper Events

Club

Making its presence known in the Polish capital’s urban jungle, the anomaly that is Pepper Events adds an exotic flair to the higher-class venues of Warsaw. The unique, sophisticated space includes both a euphoric club scene and a restaurant with an indulgent food menu. That’s all amplified with a stunning year-round garden and cocktail bar of the highest calibre, making it an ideal space for an intimate business meeting, a banquet, a product presentation, a large corporate event or even bachelor/bachelorette parties.QF-9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 730 06 80 68, www.pepperevents.pl. Open 12:00-24:00. X­B­E­6

SEN

Cocktail Bar

If you’ve come to SEN (PL for ‘dream’) to enjoy the restaurant (18:00-01:00), we give you a humble nod for making a solid choice, but if you’ve decided to stay and sup on the awesome cocktails, we salute you - you won’t be disappointed. Although not huge, the panoramic backdrop pairs up perfectly with the lounge vibe. There is a door selection, so dress to impress, and don’t be put off - the staff do their best to maintain the unique and positive character inside, which just adds to your enjoyment. The music’s great and the bar is well stocked, what’s not to enjoy? If you stay until the end, you may very well agree with the venue’s tag line: it was all a dream.QJ-7, ul. Wioślarska 6, MCentrum Nauki Kopernika, tel. (+48) 883 02 50 25, www.senwarsaw.pl. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Open Fri & Sat 19:0006:00 only. X­E

The Roof Cocktail Bar

Perched on the 21st floor of Warsaw - The HUB, with an enchanting outdoor terrace and panoramic views of Warsaw’s city centre, The Roof offers a captivating setting for enjoying drinks, live music, a delightful dinner, or gathering with friends. A truly sky-high experience, the stunning vistas of the city are perfectly complemented by the bar offer, which invites visitors to explore the exciting and diverse selection of cocktails, and unique concoctions that have been curated to reflect the extraordinary essence of Warsaw’s skyline and capture the spirit of the city in every sip. In line with the Crowne Plaza Hotel, the prestigious name that looks after this magical nest, The Roof floor boasts stylish interiors that contribute to its wonderfully sophisticated atmosphere. The sights are further enhanced by a range of acoustic performances

and intimate cultural events that are hosted here, creating an ambience that fosters both relaxation and engagement. Whether you are seeking a memorable night out, a place to enjoy live music, or a spot to savour enticing cocktails while taking in the breathtaking views, this is the one place in Warsaw you need to experience!QC-8, ul. Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. +48 881 97 41 44, www.theroofskybar.com. Open 18:00-24:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00-1:00. U­E

The ROOTS Cocktail Bar & more

Cocktail Bar

The ROOTS has, without a doubt, secured a very special place in the hearts of serious cocktail devotees, both local and international. For starters, the bar is a shrine to the noble art of being a barman/mixologist, and you should definitely check out their intriguing collection of vintage and antique ‘tools of the trade’ – the collection of mixers alone already stands at nearly 100 items! ROOTS is so well-versed in the art of making cocktails, they have enough tricks for two great menus - one featuring classics of the trade and another which presents signature drinks based on seasonal regional flavours. Make sure you scrutinise both and ask for a recommendation at the bar. Food is also available in the form of a Polish fusion menu, which is intriguing enough to at least take a peak at. Quite brilliant!QF-5, ul. Wierzbowa 11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 660 333 983, www.theroots.pl. Open 17:00-24:00; Fri 17:00-02:00; Sat 14:00-02:00; closed Mon, Sun. 6

UPPER DECK Wine & Cocktail Bar

Cocktail Bar

Sophisticated, atmospheric and contemporary, Upper Deck lives up on the perch of Warsaw’s historic food hall, Hala Koszyki, located in the center of the city. This spot, with warm lighting, sparkling, smoky cocktails and delightful jazz music, offers a exceptional experience for those seeking innovative cocktails and tasty wines. With an impressive selection of over 70 different labels available at attractive prices, it’s the perfect destination for enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike. Self-described as having a ‘jazz soul’, live music is an important part of the atmosphere, especially on Friday nights when they have live jazz concerts. Ideal for intimate meetings, business gatherings, or groups of friends -- everyone enjoys this spot.QF-10, ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), Mpolytechnika, tel. (+48) 507 66 39 75. Open 14:00-23:00; Thu 14:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 14:00-01:00; Sun 16:00-21:00. E

Shopping in Warsaw

Warsaw offers a wide diversity of shopping experiences, from old school markets to luxury boutiques (primarily along ul. Nowy Świat and ul. Mokotowska: G-7, H-8/9) to some of Central Europe’s most modern shopping malls. For visitors, it’s an opportunity to shop exclusive designer brands, catch bargains on known commodities or find forgotten treasures. Happy hunting!

Lilou is shopping in style (p. 111)

Amber & Jewellery

Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line

This gorgeous gallery specialises in luxury handcrafted jewellery of the amber variety, but crystal, silver and gold items can be purchased here too. This is the location of the largest and oldest amber dealer in the city, a family run business going back to 1988, proudly selling amber of Polish origincertified by the International Amber Association. Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line. Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and top designers.QF-4, Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 69 61, www.warsawamber.pl. Open 10:00-19:00; Sun 10:00-17:00.

Lilou

A phenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where customers can select their own components to create a unique and personalised piece. The range continues to grow, with the original luxury charm bracelet still the biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes, then have it hand-engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you. A ‘must-have’ item amongst local celebs and fashionistas. Also at ul. Francuska 27  (L-7), Westfield Arkadia (B/C-2), Westfield Mokotów, Sadyba Best Mall  and  Centrum Handlowe Janki. Q H - 9, ul. Mokotowska 63, M Centrum, tel. (+48) 506 19 08 97, www.lilou.pl . Open 11:00-19:00; Sat 11:00-18:00; Sun 11:00-16:00*.

Gifts & Souvenirs

E-Manufaktura

It’s sometimes hard to find that perfect gift from Poland to take back home with you. This is why we whole heartedly recommend E-Manufaktura, which is not only a shop in Warsaw, but also an online shop for you to look through an extensive catalogue in the comfort of your home. From egg cups, plates, bowls, and all other kitchenware you can think of, you’ll find it here! The famous hand-painted ceramics, Bolesławiec, make up the core of what’s on offer.QF-3, ul. Freta 14, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 636 06 84, www.e-manufaktura.com. Open 10:00-18:00.

HELLO! GIFT SHOP

Find a huge range of products that are perfect to take home for friends and family -- and oh-soPolish! Roam into the Warsaw Old Town to find

these two delightful shops, which sell gifts made in Poland and recalling Polish history and tradition. Find a huge range of products with colorful folk patterns, Polish ceramics and porcelain, even models of Polish cars, T-shirts with fashionable prints, and all kinds of gifts sporting various Warsaw symbols. Q F - 4, Piwna 17/19, Freta 26/28, M Ratusz Arsenal. Open 10:00-20:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00-22:00.

Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki

Of all Polish gifts, none are as visually exciting as Bolesławiec pottery . With a mix of cups, plates, bowls and other kitchenware with various colours and designs, you can’t go wrong to buy friends, family, or even yourself one of these classic but quirky items. What’s more, at this location, not only do you get the chance to buy something of your pleasing, but you can join in some workshops (offered Thu-Sat 16:00 or 18:00) to make and paint anything you want in the studio! Q F - 8, Al. Jerozolimskie 49, M Centrum, tel. (+48) 690 80 01 84, www.pomaluj.art . Open 11:0019:00; closed Sun.

Shopping

Shopping Malls

Designer Outlet Warszawa

Set inside an impressive collection of buildings evoking the Baroque style of Warsaw’s Old Town, this is a premium outlet mall, with the interior that makes you feel like you’re walking through a fashion high street. Here you’ll find discounts ranging from 3070% off on brands like Adidas, Armani, Boss, Calvin Klein, Coccinelle, GAP, Guess, Furla, Karl Lagerfeld, Levi’s, Liu Jo, Longines, Luisa Spagnoli, Michael Kors, Nike, Pinko, Polo Ralph Lauren, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and more. Just 30mins from the city centre and 20mins from Chopin Airport, it’s easily reached by car and public transport (use a zone 2 ticket and get off at ‘Energetyczna 01’).Qul. Puławska 42E (Piaseczno), MWilanowska, tel. (+48) 22 737 31 15, www.designeroutletwarszawa.pl. Open 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00*.

Dom Mody KLIF

Klif has been attracting fashion lovers for over 20 years, with locations across Poland. The quality of brands is exceptionally high, not to mention the stunning showrooms inside. Shop top tags like MaxMara, Elisabetta Franchi, PennyBlack, Michael Kors, Karl Lagerfeld and DM Moda , as well as respected mainstream brands like Olsen and S’Portofino . What’s more, anyone can use the services of the pro stylists at FASHION STUDIO, and this is also the only shopping centre to have a concierge point. Q B - 4, ul. Okopowa 58/72, M Rondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 535 41 14 58, www.klif.pl . Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00*. Eurospar open Mon-Sat 08:30-22:00; Sun 09:0020:00*.

*Sunday Shopping in PL

In its effort to get people out of shopping malls and into churches, the Polish government has imposed regulations preventing most businesses from opening their doors on Sundays. Of course, there are exceptions, including 7 special Sundays when shops are open each year, and the rules don’t apply to restaurants, bars, cafes, pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets, souvenir shops and anywhere the business owner is personally working behind the counter. When you see an asterisk* after the Sunday hours in our guide, that means the venue is closed on Sundays.

Upcoming shopping Sundays: June 29

Elektrownia Powiśle

Imagine this as a multifunctional centre, including sooped up shops completely new to Poland (nay, in Central and Eastern Europe even!) such as Urban Outfitters, True Color, Weekday, COS, Elementy, Balagan, Galilu, Chosen By (to name a few), plenty more boutiques, beauty salons, a top floor event space, as well as their awesome gastro and nightlife offer (p.56). You can shop until you drop, then pick yourself up with some great food, all the while being delighted with the look and feel of the place too.QH/I-6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Elektrownia open MonSun 11:00-21:00 Food Hall open Mon-Thu 12:00-23:00, Fri 12:00-24:00, Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:00-23:00 Beauty Hall open Mon-Sat 08:00-20:00, Sun 10:00-19:00.

FACTORY Outlet Annopol

This massive outlet mall is closer than you think! Save up to 70% on premium name brands like Adidas, Nike, Ecco, Medicine, Guess, Under Armour, Pepe Jeans, Converse, Vans, Puma, Tefal, Tommy Hilfiger, Smyk, 4F, RTV Euro AGD and more. FACTORY Outlet Annopol

The options here are nearly endless and you can find amazing premium wear for such a low price that it’s going to be hard to rationalize NOT buying everything. Plus, you can find food and cafe options here so it’s really a spend-all-day or shop-till-you-drop kind of experience. To get there take Metro M2 from ‘Świętokrzyska’ to ‘Bródno’ and then change to tram no. 1, 3, 4 or 25 and get off at ‘Toruńska’ or ‘Annopol’. Check jakdojade.pl for live timetables. If you want to drive (and bring your electric car), you’re in luck! They have a special charging station for electric vehicles. Qul. Annopol 2 (Białołęka), tel. (+48) 22 441 90 00, www. annopol.factory.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00*.

FACTORY Outlet Ursus

This outlet shopping mall southwest of the city centre is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over regular rack rates, all in a gorgeous, sun-drenched spot! FACTORY Outlet Ursus Recognisable brands include Tommy Hilfiger, Marc’o Polo, BOSS, Nike, Adidas, Guess, Calvin Klein, New Balance, Calzedonia, Lindt, Haribo, Tefal, Ochnik, Wittchen, and many more. And, it needs repeating, these are all at a discount. So you can shop premium clothing, jewelry and more for way less than the normal price! One of the only such outlet centres in Europe, you can get there quickly by car via the S8 route or Nowolazurowa street. You can also reach it about 30mins by train or bus; check jakdojade.pl for accurate, up-to-the-minute connections.QPl. Czerwca 1976r. 6 (Ursus), tel. (+48) 22 478 22 70, www.ursus. factory.pl. Open 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00*.

Venue Index

Print space is finite, but the internet is a vast, vacuous void we’ve devoted our lives to filling. If the venue you’re looking for isn’t listed here, you’ll likely find it amongst the hundreds of places in Warsaw listed on our website: warsaw.inyourpocket.com

3/4 Koneser Bar 106

Adam Mickiewicz Monument 49

Agnieszka Osiecka Monument 66

AïOLI Cantine Bar Cafe Deli 90, 92

Amar Beirut 89, 90

Amar Beirut Rooftop Bar 106

Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line 111

Anielewicz Bunker 79

Art Box Experience 72

Banjaluka 92

Beauty Hall 84

Beef n’ Pepper 93

Beer&Wine SPA 84

Belvedere 98

Belvedere Palace 59

Bierhalle 93

Bliski Wschód Vege Street Food & Cocktail Bar 93

Botanical Garden 61

Bristol & Europejski Hotels 51

Browary Warszawskie 33

BursztyNova Restaurant 94

Centrum Praskie Koneser 65

Champs Sports Bar 107

Chocolate Factory E.Wedel 72

Choose Your Adventure! 52

Chopin Benches 51

Chopin Monument 59

Ciao Napoli 94

City Sightseeing Warsaw 27

Copernicus Science Centre 56

Cucina Mia 94

Czerwony Wieprz 94

Daebak 94

Der Elefant 98

Designer Outlet Warszawa 112

Dom Mody KLIF 112

Elektrownia Powiśle 56, 112

Elektrownia Powiśle Food Hall 17, 102

Elixir by Dom Wódki 99

E-Manufaktura 111

Enklawa Art & Music Club 105

Estell Clinic 85

Fabryka Norblina 33

FACTORY Outlet Annopol 112

FACTORY Outlet Ursus 112

Figa z Makiem Cheese Box Bar 107

Food Hall Browary 102

FOOD TOWN - Fabryka Norblina 103

Fryderyk Chopin Museum 54

Gnojna Góra 46

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi 95

Gospoda pod Zygmuntem 95

Hala Koszyki 19, 36, 103

HELLO! GIFT SHOP 111

Holy Cross Church 52

InAzia 99

Invisible Exhibition 74

Jan Kiliński Monument 42

Jewish Historical Institute 79

King Sigismund's Column 48

Kładka na Wiśle (Footbridge) 56

KUK Restaurant by Maciej Majewski 99

La Playa 21, 107 Lilou 111

Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum 73

Mariensztat 57

MEATing Restaurant 89

melt museum 73

MK Bowling Entertainment Center 83

Moonsfera 100

Museum of Dollhouses, Games and Toys 73

Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship 60

Museum of Life under Communism 74, 83

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw 74, 75

Museum of Warsaw, Main Branch 45

Museum World of Illusion 82

Myślewicki Palace 60

Namaste India 95

Nar Restaurant 91, 96

National Ethnographic Museum 75

Neon Museum 75

Nicolaus Copernicus Monument 52

Nova Wola 91, 100

Okocim Grill&Bar Beer Pub 105

Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery 79

Old Orangery 60

Old Town Defensive Ramparts 43

Old Town Square 44

Palace of Culture & Science 29

Palace on the Isle 60

Pasaż Wiecha 35

PaTaThai Powiśle 96

Pepper Events 108

PGE National Stadium 66

PierOgarnia 96

Plac Defilad 34

Plac Europejski & Warsaw Spire 33

Plac Grzybowski 34

Plac Konstytucji 35

Plac Pięciu Rogów & ul. Chmielna 35

Plac Piłsudskiego 32

Plac Zamkowy 41

Plac Zbawiciela 36

POLIN Museum 79

Polish History Museum 75

Polish Vodka Museum 65

Pomaluj.art 111

Potocki Mausoleum 63

Powiśle Mermaid Statue 55

Praga Museum of Warsaw 65

Presidential Palace 50

PRIMITIVO Kuchnia i Wino 96

Purr Purr 91, 96, 97

Royal Castle 42

Saska Kępa - Ul. Francuska 66

Saxon Garden

SEN 108

Setki Powodów

Skaryszewski Park

Smart Kids Planet 82, 86, Stacja Caffe

Stacja Grawitacja

St. Anne's Church

St. Anne's Church & Tower

St. John the Baptist Cathedral

Syrena Irena 91,

The Little Insurgent Monument

The Roof 108

The ROOTS Cocktail Bar & more 108

The University of Warsaw

Traficar Car Share

U Barssa

U Fukiera 101

U Kucharzy w Arsenale 101

Ul. Kanonia

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście

ul. Nowy Świat

ul. Ząbkowska

UPPER DECK Wine & Cocktail Bar 108

Vistula River Boulevards

Vodka Museum

Warsaw Arcade Museum 83,

Warsaw Barbican

Warsaw National Museum

Warsaw Photoplasticon

Warsaw Rising Museum 81

Warsaw University Library

Rooftop Gardens 56

Warsaw University of Technology 36

Warsaw Zoo 66

WawaBus 27

Wilanów Lake & Island 63

Wilanów Palace Museum 62

Wilanów Park & Gardens 62

Zachęta National Gallery of Art 76

Zwierciadło 97

FACTORY

VISIT NORBLIN FACTORY VISIT NORBLIN

BEST ENTERTAINMENT IN WARSAW

BEST ENTERTAINMENT IN WARSAW

ŻELAZNA 51/53

ŻELAZNA 51/53