Warsaw In Your Pocket City Guide_ August-September 2025

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Warsaw

east side of the Vistul is packed with spots to lounge in the sun.

Welcome to Warsaw

Located on the Vistula River at the very crossroads of Central Europe, Warsaw is the 8th most populous city in the European Union (1.8 million people) and a major cultural, political and economic hub.

The city has had a troubled history ever since King Sigismund III Vasa moved his royal court from Kraków, making Warsaw the new Polish capital in 1569. Pillaged by the Swedes in the 17th century, and occupied by Russia for most of the 19th century, Poland was off the map for 123 years before returning in the aftermath of WWI. The interwar period signalled a golden age for Warsaw, as the city developed on par with other great European capitals.

WWII brought new suffering, however. Occupied by Nazi Germany, Warsaw saw its cultural monuments defiled or stolen, and its Jewish population of 350,000 systematically exterminated. With liberation in sight, the Polish population rose up against their German occupiers in August 1944, only for Soviet forces to look on as the Nazis brutally crushed the Uprising and destroyed the city in reprisal. When the fires were extinguished, 150,000 more civilians were dead and German occupation had merely been traded for Soviet oppression, as Poland was pinned under Moscow’s influence for the next four decades, during which Warsaw was rebuilt in communist fashion, earning a reputation as a charmless city of concrete.

But that was then, this is now. A compelling blend of East and West, past and future, today’s Warsaw is a modern metropolis of complex character and rich rewards for those who get to know it. Gone are the gloomy images of yesteryear as the city restlessly evolves, buzzing with energy and optimism. Whether you’re here to explore trendsetting urban culture or UNESCO treasures, world-class dining or luxury boutiques, you’ll hardly be disappointed by all the modern capital has to offer. Enjoy Warsaw!

Warsaw’s bustling downtown (more on p.30) photo/droneinwarsaw

How to Use This Guide

Warsaw In Your Pocket is designed to provide you with all of the ideas, tools and information you need to explore the city on your own, stay offline as much as possible, and really connect with the city you’re visiting.

Over here at IYP we still believe that the best way to understand the space you’re in is with a map, and the most immersive way to explore it is on foot. As such, our Sightseeing chapter is organised into geographic areas of interest with detailed district maps to help you navigate them. Selfguided district tours include descriptions of all the most important sites, plus local tips on where to eat and drink in each area. There are also intriguing ‘Crossroads’ moments that allow you to be lured towards alternative adventures, either on foot or via public transport.

Throughout the guide, page references are liberally used to lead you to related info on a topic elsewhere in the guide, while QR codes will take you to our website when we feel there’s more to know than can be expressed in print. Each venue listing includes a map coordinate (E-8, for example) that correlates to the city map on p.2-3. If there’s a specific venue you’re searching for, use the Venue Index in the back of the guide to quickly find it, or simply follow our informed suggestions.

Cover Story

The column of 16th-century King Sigismund on Plac Zamkowy, the beating heart of the Old Town and a must-visit spot for tourists and locals alike. Photo: DroneInWarsaw.

Publisher & Staff

IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com

Circulation

12,000 copies published every 2 months

Warsaw IYP Online

Of course, space in our print guide is a finite resource, but if you don’t find what you’re searching for here, we’re confident you’ll find it on our website. Visit warsaw.inyourpocket.com for more info about the capital, and poland.inyourpocket.com to see just how much of the country we cover.

Here is some extra content we wish we had room for in print this issue:

Warsaw Day Trips

Read through our entire guide, done it all and still looking for more? Of course not, but the surrounding region still offers many sites worth exploring, from national parks to spa towns.

Summer in Warsaw

Ahhh, summer in the city. It's full of life, live music, drinks by the river, bike rides through the streets, walks through the parks, cafe sitting and... well, find the rest of our suggestions here!

All About the Warsaw Uprising

This year marks the 81st anniversary of the Warsaw Uprising, which began Aug. 1, 1944 and lasted 63 days. The heroic effort goes down as the largest rebellion against the Nazis in the German-occupied territories. Read about it here.

Editor: Anna Merriman

Sales Consultant: Jarek Śliwiński (+48) 606 749 643

Marketing: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 728 879 494

Research: Karolina Adamik

Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman

Copyright Notice

All content copyright IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o Sp.k. and its partners, unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written consent from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.

Natural Warsaw Exploring the Capital City’s

Green Beauty

When we think of capital cities, we tend to think of the same kinds of things: towering, glossy skyscrapers and well-coiffed residents in stylish clothing. Or government buildings (naturally) and a palace or two. Maybe, if you’re a foodie, you’ll think of three-star restaurants with sizzling steaks and long reservation times. But rarely do we equate capital cities with nature: greenery, quiet parks, dense forests and sprawling beaches.

And that’s one of the things that makes Warsaw so incredible. It has all the standard stuff from sights to skyscrapers to incredible food options (see, well, the whole rest of the guide for all of those recommendations).

But it’s also rife with greenery, nature and largely untouched spots that feel like oases in the middle of a major European capital. And as we come up to the end of a beautiful city summer, it’s worth stepping away from the built Warsaw and exploring the natural Warsaw: the one with places to lounge in the grass or on the sand, to explore the trees of a lush forest, or to simply stroll in the quiet of nature.

Explore Natural Walking Paths

The easiest way to start a journey of Warsaw’s green side, is to explore its nature paths. There are a few that run through the city and offer incredible opportunities to walk or bike for hours through the trees (while never actually leaving Warsaw).

The best trails are on the east side of the river -- across the Poniatowski Bridge (J-7). This welltrafficked bridge runs from Saska Kępa on the east side of the river, to the center of town on the west. But if you start on the east side and walk below the bridge, you’ll run into a walking and biking

With waterfalls, tons of trees and more, Park Skaryszewski is a natural oasis in the center of the city.

trail that runs north to south. Plus, don’t miss the chance to rent a bike from a city bike stand (Vetrulio) on Wybrzeże Szczecińskie street (J/K-6)

Now you have to pick your poison! North or south?

Do you want to go north? Then head along the dirt trail, which winds through tons of trees and runs along the beach of the Vistula River, with gorgeous views of the center and the Old Town (p.40) along the way. Also along the way, find a lot of little cut-offs -- footpaths that will take you down to green spots, riverbanks and sandy beaches where you can post up with a picnic. If you keep moving, you’ll reach the pedestrian and bicycle footbridge (p.56) which takes you across the river, into Powiśle (p.54). The bridge, new and very popular, is a great choice for first-time visitors to Warsaw, as it gives you plenty of photo ops and lots of spots to rest.

Do you want to go south? Get prepared for a quieter, less-trafficked ride, with lots and lots of greenery. There are fewer sights to see across the river, but you feel like you’re in the countryside as you take this route, with lots of green grass and plenty of trees for shade. As with the north route, you can pop off the bike trail in tons of place here and have a picnic on the water. These are some of the quieter areas of the city for those who want a break from the major metropolitan center. We recommend bringing a picnic and taking a break by the water.

Stroll in the Parks

One of the best parts of Warsaw’s nature scene is its parks. The city has tons of parks, from sprawling parks with tons of amenities and buildings and water features, to small ones that take just a few minutes to get through

Of course, the biggest and most famous is Łazienki Park which has tons of sights, including museums and a palace, live theater, and even canals and ponds filled with wildlife. But, we’ve already devoted a whole section of our guide to Łazienki (seriously, that’s how great it is), so we urge you to go check out p.58 for more.

Here, we’d like to give some recognition to the unsung heroes of Warsaw’s park scene. Well, maybe not unsung by local standards (locals are wellacquainted with all these spaces), but not as well known by tourists. Let’s change that!

One spot that park lovers need to check out is Pole Mokotowskie (E-12). This sprawling park is rife with winding paths, ponds, wildlife, fields, and just tons to see. It recently underwent a renovation (that cost over 40 million złoty!) which brought even more

Pole Mokotowskie’s revamped scenery makes it a must.

greenery to the already beautiful space. The main pond was naturalized, new benches and wooden paths were brought in, more lighting was introduced, and even skating areas and outdoor gyms were created!

This spot is one of the best in the entire city because of just how stunning it is. We recommend starting off Żwirki I Wigury (C-12) (for travellers, you may know this as the route from the airport into town) and heading straight into the park, using the walking path of Ryszard Kapuściński. Bike or walk past volleyball courts, ponds, fields and trees as you traverse this gorgeous space. It’s worth grabbing some sandwiches and a blanket, exploring the park on foot or bike, and finding a place to post up for a few hours. It’s like a giant oasis in the heart of a bustling city.

And, for those of you who would prefer some actual, non-grass seating, there are plenty of stops in and around the park to get a drink or some food as you head on your way. Lolek Grill and Bar is located close to one of the park’s ponds, and Bolek Pub and Restaurant is on the other side. Treat yourself to a day of biking and walking in this park, and top it off with a beer and a bite at one of their restaurants.

Another beloved park is Skaryszewski Park in Saska Kępa (p.66). Originally founded in 1905, Skaryszewski Park went under the name Paderewski Park up until 1945. Within its manicured grounds are several points of interest, including a monument commemorating Allied pilots who flew missions to supply insurgents fighting in the Warsaw Uprising. The memorial is located at the exact site where B24 bomber was shot down in 1944, killing all but one of the seven crew on

board. The sole survivor, Henry Lloyd Lyne, unveiled the monument in 1988, and today it is the sight of the British Embassy’s annual Remembrance service. In 2000 Lloyd Lyne, a retired farmer, was presented with a recovered piece of the plane by Queen Elizabeth II; he passed away at age 93 in March 2016. Even without its fascinating history, Skaryszewski Park has tons to offer. It’s known as a place to relax, picnic, feed birds and take dogs for a walk. With large bushes and overhanging tress, two duck ponds, and secret paths aplenty, it’s a more wild and laid-back alternative to its well-manicured sister, Łazienki Park. This one comes with a little more of a wild feeling -- and you’ll find tons of young people hanging out with picnics, bottles of wine, sandwiches and their dogs in this park. It’s the epitome of a casual oasis in Praga.

Another is Szczęśliwicki Park - Found in the heart of the Ochota district, it’s a wonder that there’s a park here at all as the park was built in the 1960s on a site that previously held the city’s refuse and rubble from World War 2! Today, however, this public area is a great place for rest and recreational activities. The park itself contains attractions such as a beach volleyball court and an outdoor gym, however, the star attractions are outdoor pools for kids and adults and CNS Szczęśliwice winter ski center, which was built in the 1980s and revamped in 2019. The man-made hill is Warsaw’s highest point at 152m. The center is also open in summer for those wishing to get to the top of the hill to get some views of the city.

Lounge on the Beaches

With the Vistula River running right through Warsaw, it’s entirely unsurprising that we have tons of beaches. But it might be surprising to see just how nice these beaches are. Expell that idea of river beaches with dirt and broken glass -- these are lovely, sand-filled and regularly cleaned.... though you still might want to wear shoes. We can’t guarantee that there isn’t broken glass.

The first one doesn’t really count as a beach in the traditional sense, but we’d be remiss if we didn’t mention it: Vistula Boulevards. These boulevards, running along the west side of the river, are chockfull of little stands selling drinks and food in the summers, as well as barges also selling drinks and food and playing music all night long on weekend nights. You’ll find all the young, hip locals here, sitting on the steps of the boulevards, drinking beer or wine, smoking cigarettes, chatting and having fun. Okay, so

Zegrze Reservoir (p.14) is a little outside the city but wellworth a visit.

it’s not really the epitome of nature in Warsaw, but it is a must-see. And, as you’re lounging on those steps, look across the water to find....

Poniatówka Beach! Located just across the river from the Vistula Boulevards, this beach which runs underneath the Poniatowski Bridge). This is actually a very nature-heavy spot with tons of walking paths (see above - this is where the walking paths start), reeds, tall grasses and even green spaces to stretch out. the sprawling sand beach was revived in 2010, and features aplenty of sunbeds, hammocks and designated areas for starting up a good ole BBQ. On summer nights, you’ll find tons of people have set up little bonfires on the north and south sides of the bridge. Water equipment rental is right on the beach, there’s volleyball courts, a playground for kids and a cafe/bar.

Another must-see is Praga District Beach - Known as the Rusałka Beach, Praga district beach, the Zoo beach, or even ‘the beach at La Playa’ thanks to the fun bar/club/activity area behind (p.107), this beach has one of the best views in Warsaw - directly across the river is the Old Town - a view not to be missed during the day, or for that matter, at night! This is more of a wild beach, so bring your own gear, however, with La Playa just behind you, it’s a great place to either chill out or join the party just a stone’s throw away. The beach is also where you can get the Vistulan Tourist Ferry Service (during the summer season) to cross the river to get back to the Vistulan Boulevards and the Old Town. Further north and back on the east side of the river, you’ll find Żoliborz Beach. Located very near

the Warsaw Citadel, Żoliborz Beach is towards the end of the northern section of the Vistula Boulevards. Handily, there is a Veturilo city bike station here should you choose to ride here rather than walk or take the bus. As for the beach itself, there is a children’s playground, designated barbecue area, deck chairs, wicker chairs, a canoe harbour and toilets (phew!).

Step a little out of the city for Zegrze Reservoir. This large body of water, linking 3 nearby rivers - the Vistula, Narew and Wkra - is the summer playground of Varsovians and those living nearby, who wish to get away from the city and enjoy the beaches, bars and water sports. And no wonder, as it’s only 20km north-east of Warsaw. It can be packed on major weekends or when the weather gets really nice, but don’t let that deter you! There is plenty of space here and this lovely spot offers a lot in the way of quiet reflection. From spring to autumn the lake is full of yachts and other vessels, but come winter, the reservoir traffic turns to ice-skating (if you feel brave enough!).

However, if being on a crowded beach is not your thing, the surrounding area has plenty of quiet tourist trails to enjoy. There are tons of piers all around the reservoir and plenty of chances to rent motor boats with a guide and fishing boats also with a guide. Lots of companies (LSurf and Water Club are just two) offer kayak rentals and even waterbike rentals, and some hotels in the area also offer the same!

Getting there can be done easily and in a cool way! Use the ‘Zefir’ ferry at 09:00 from the Żeran Canal near bus stop Cementownia 02. A one way journey costs 36zł normal fare, and 18zł reduced. The ferry will take you to the northern part of the reservoir to the town of Serock where you have two hours before the return journey to wander around. Talk about spending the whole day on the water!

Warsaw is rife with many attractions but we highly recommend taking just one or two days to explore the greener aspects of this beautiful city. Take a break from the crowds and really embrace the feeling that you’re in the middle of nature.... in the middle of the city.

The Poniatówka Beach is a typical sandy beach in the heart of the capital

Warsaw’s Best Beer Gardens

Having to spend a few months every year buried under a ton of frozen gunk, it’s no surprise that the moment Mr. Sun appears the natives take their clothes off and retire to the nearest beer garden. Luckily for you, we have a few recommendations on where to go...

In the Center

Warsaw’s city center has a variety of options for indulging in some outdoor drinking. Hala Koszyki (p.103) is one of Warsaw’s super trendy food markets, set in a historic Art Nouveau market hall from the early 20th century, and its patio matches the indoor vibes with the addition of fresh air in its outdoor setting. Meanwhile, the Royal Route (p.48), is jampacked with outdoor seating and inner courtyard gardens! Pay special attention to Nowy Świat which is packed with outdoor drinking options (p.53). This one leads all the way up to the Old Town, which itself becomes a beer garden haven in the warmer months, utilising any free space to put up some parasols, seats and tables, especially on Old Town Square (p.44)!

Left-of-Field

Heading west of the center, you are able to find several bits of urban revitalization that have their own unique set-ups and outdoor spaces for the summer months. Fabryka Norblina (p.103) impresses all with Norblin Food Town, which allows guests to hang with an industrial revolution-era backdrop with fairy lighting, as well as surrounding restaurants and bars. We recommend Amar Beirut (p.105) which offers an incredible rooftop with views of the city center (and great drinks). Browary Warszawskie

(p.102) has tons of outdoor seating, with long tables and lots of beer options amid a floral setting. Also, its food hall has an upper deck and a central bar with a healthy bias towards beer. A quick mention should also go to Nocny Market (C-9), the night market set amongst the former Central Railway Station platforms, which comes to life at the hour of dusk and is all outside!

Riverside fun!

In the district of Powiśle (p.54), traditional beer gardens take the form of a picturesque riverside setting at the Vistula Boulevards (p.55), with tons of food stalls and barges offering food, drinks and live music - the whole experience is outside so this is the ultimate beer garden. The district’s cultural heart can be found at Elektrownia Powiśle, Warsaw’s former power plant that has been revitalized as a multifunctional space. Their food hall (p.102) spills out onto their outdoor communal space, making it an easy meet-up spot in the warmer months. Heading over to the east side of the Vistula, you can enjoy sandy beachfront. However, if you’re looking for some more ‘institutionalised’ fun, beach bars such as the ever popular La Playa (p.107) are a great option! Further out, near the PGE National Stadium, Saska Kępa’s ul. Francuska (p.66) becomes a hive of activity with every bar, cafe and restaurant spilling out onto the streets.

Hala Koszyki’s (p.103) beer garden is an excellent escape from the bustle of the city.

Centrum Praskie Koneser The Height of Culture

Right in the heart of the artsy Praga-Północ neighborhood is where you’ll find one of the cultural bastions of Warsaw: Centrum Praskie Koneser. Tucked within the historic brick walls of the former vodka factory, there are a plethora of art galleries that feature paintings and creations from prominent Polish and international artists – including some that have never been seen before – exhibitions, and events all summer (and through the rest of the year) that give visitors with a keen eye for culture, nearly unlimited options.

But of course, no good cultural hub would stop there, right? On top of the museums, art galleries and events, they’ve got bars, cafes, restaurants, shopping and so much more, all within just a few steps.

Warsaw’s Cultural Hub

One of the most talked-about events (at least among artists in Warsaw) is the exciting, fantastical “Beksiński in Warsaw” exhibit hosted by the Museum of Fantastic Art, located right in the heart of Centrum Praskie Koneser. This is truly a must-see for Varsovians and visitors alike, as Zdzisław Beksiński was one of the most important Polish painters. But he wasn’t exactly known for traditional art. Trained as an architect in the mid 20th century, the introverted master tried his hand at many different art forms, but the one

he became most well-known for was his fantastical, almost horror-esq paintings. Now, on the 20th anniversary of his death, the Museum of Fantastic Art is making sure his pieces are celebrated by the world through this exciting exhibition, which runs through September 28th.

While that is high on our list of must-sees, there are other incredibly exciting events, like an exhibit showcasing the work of Zbigniew Herbert, one of Poland’s most prominent poets. The 20th century poet, essayist and drama writer was nominated several times for the Nobel Prize in Literature and is beloved for his incredible works, which often criticized the oppressive nature of communism. The exhibition runs through the end of November and –big bonus – it’s free!

Centrum Praskie Koneser is always alive with events, food, culture and more!

If you haven’t gotten your cultural fill, make sure to check out Centrum Praskie Koneser’s other renowned art galleries, including ToTuart Gallery, which displays beautiful, occassionally mind-bending sculptures and paintings and also has an auction house! Or Leonarda Art Gallery, with its unique, beautiful, pieces from renowned street artists.

Of course, no trip to this space is complete without a visit to the Polish Vodka Museum, a multimedia experience that starts with the beginnings of vodka production in Poland and details the history of the beloved booze up through the modern day. Check out a variety of vodka bottles, buy some gifts and of course, try some during the vodka tasting (though of course, this is for adults only).

There are a whole host of exciting events held here, too, like an open-air display of colorful urban art, which was installed in June and lasts through the summer. Or classical music performances every Thursday through August 21.

Foodies Fall in Love

We’re of the opinion that culture doesn’t just stop at incredible art. In fact, the food offerings at Centrum Praskie Koneser easily rise to the level of a cultural attraction. The whole place is the perfect option for foodies looking for innovative dishes and highquality ingredients. We recommend starting with Koneser Grill a high-end steak restaurant, and one of the few places in this part of the city to secure a spot on the coveted Michelin Guide. This is a place for people who love juicy grilled meat and other dishes cooked over a live fire, as well as a spot for premium wines. If you’re looking for more variety, try Bombaj Masala, which offers seriously good Indian

food, or Concept Food & Wine, which has comfort food with a modern twist (and some gorgeous plating). New wine bar Starlet offers 40 carefully selected wines and a seasonal menu with local, fresh ingredients – all waste-free!

Setki Powodów has delicious food along with unique cocktails - all in a space decorated with neon signs and filled regularly with live music. Speaking of drinks, swing by the ¾ Koneser Bar, located in the Polish Vodka Museum, which offers several unique and artisanal alcohol infusions. There’s also the 24-hour Moxy Bar, with bright lighting and fun little decorative details (pink flamingo drawings abound).

Shopping, Spa, Studio Art and More!

Not only is Centrum Praskie Koneser bursting at the seams with art, food and cultural attractions, but it’s packed in the way of shopping, relaxation and more. Start by getting a room at the reputed Moxy Warsaw Praga Hotel, which has delightful little elements and pops of color that make your stay unique, cozy and give it a metropolitan feel. From designer boutiques and concept stores to local brands with a sustainable edge, shopping here is anything but ordinary. A perfect example is Mydlarnia Cztery Szpaki - a charming spot known for its natural cosmetics that combine minimalist design with beautifully crafted scents.

An Historical and Gorgeous Space

In fact, we would argue that the whole complex itself is a bastion of culture, based on its architecture and history alone. Opened in 1897 as a factory to house the famous Koneser Vodka operations, vodka production continued at the factory through much of the 20th century, with a major boom in the first half of the century, until production ended in 200 The buildings are made of red brick and boast ribvault ceilings, smoke stacks and narrow windows. When developers began repurposing the space for an entertainment, food and shopping center – which opened in 2018 – they leaned into the existing architecture, highlighting it with contemporary industrial elements.

Centrum Praskie Koneser

QK‑2, Plac Konesera, MDworzec Wileński, www.koneser.eu T­U­E­6­­­­

Koneser Grill is the perfect spot for juicy meat and great wine.

Designer Outlet Warszawa

20 Years of Incredible Fashion

It’s an exciting month for one of the retail and fashion staples near the capital city. The beloved retail gem, Designer Outlet Warszawa located just south of Warsaw in the historic town of Piaseczno, is having its 20th anniversary this August! And honestly, we would recommend celebrating with a visit to the gorgeous space – not just for the excellent architecture and great fashion, but also because they have some excellent perks in honor of their birthday (see the box for more).

But first, a look at what makes this place so special, starting with the moment you roll (or walk) up to the front doors.

The shopping complex, open since 2005, has a pastel-colored facade with little baroque-style details reminiscent of buildings in the Old Town. The effect is that the whole place looks like you’ve stepped into a magical little city of its own.

Inside, you’ll find an airy, light space designed to feel like you’re outdoors, complete with two-story interior buildings and tons of windows. Nice touches include sleek stone floors, tons of greenery, lamp posts with hanging potted plants, and of course, cafes, restaurants, and shopping. You’re inside, but it feels like you’re meandering down a little avenue in Paris or Rome.

But the thing about this spot? The prices are much better than anything you would find in Paris or Rome. It’s the largest premium outlet in the entire country, offering 130 different designer brands at anywhere from 30% to 70% off.

What You’ll Find Inside

If you want to break away from the center of the city for an afternoon and get some shopping in, this is the place to go. The center stands out from other shopping centers in that it’s truly fashion-forward. This is where you’ll find great American brands, chic French styles, British classics, romantic Italian wear. The list goes on!

With beautiful architecture and incredible shops, Designer Outlet Warszawa is the perfect place for a retail retreat

There’s an array of designer shops here— BOSS, Calvin Klein, Coccinelle, GAP, Guess, Furla, KARL LAGERFELD, Lacoste, Liu Jo, Longines, Luisa Spagnoli, MaxMara, Marc O’Polo, Michael Kors, Pinko, Polo Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Tous, Twinset, and Swarovski, as well as lifestyle brands like Adidas, Lee Cooper, New Balance, Kazar, Levi’s, Nike, Salewa, Salomon, Timberland, 4F, and many more.

It’s not just fashion, either; Designer Outlet Warszawa offers plenty of other shops, too. Swing by The Cosmetics Company Store or Hairpoint for top-tier hair products. There are even plenty of offerings for home goods supplies – at prices you likely won’t find elsewhere. Want a new pot-and-pan set? Swing by Le Creuset. Are you in the market for high-end ceramics? Villeroy & Boch, which has been a homeware institution since the 1700s, has you covered.

Simply put, Designer Outlet Warszawa is a kind of shop-till-you-drop place.

Food, Drink, Rest

If you need a pick-me-up, swing by the Green Caffe Nero for a coffee, tea or flaky pastry. The popular cafe has comfy leather seats and little tables, offering a cozy cafe experience in the midst of a bustling retail hub. If you want some variety, there’s also Vita Cafe, with exposed brick walls and contemporary hanging light fixtures; this is where you come for your pączki fix (the name for the popular Polish donut filled with jam and topped with icing sugar and candied orange peel). Or, if it’s a full meal you’re after, stop by Los Santos Bar, the brick-and-mortar version of

Happy Birthday, Designer Outlet Warszawa!

In honor of their 20th anniversary, the retail giant is giving back some perks and it’s well worth making a trip down south to visit. The whole birthday month of August is chock-full of attractions, more discounts and even chances to win some cool prizes. Start by scanning your receipt to compete for discount vouchers and prizes in the VIP CLUB loyalty program.

Plus, the 20 most acive accounts have the chance to win a voucher for a trip, a vacuum cleaner or really top-notch silverware sets. All throughout August, expect to run into members of the Designer Outlet team in pink outfits for perks!

Until December 31st 2025, you can show this article at the Information Desk at Designer Outlet to get a one-day discount card that gives you a 10% discount at partner stores.

a long-beloved food truck, which has an array of international foods including juicy burgers, nachos, burritos, chicken strips and more.

Parents will be relieved to find a lot of family-friendly amenities, too, from changing rooms to strollers, to even lockable cabinets where you can store belongings for the long shopping day ahead.

Getting There:

Though the space is located outside the center of Warsaw, it’s basically a straight-shot from the middle of the city, and very easy to get to. If you’re going by car, take al. Niepodległości south all the way to Energetyczna. The outlet mall will be on the right at the roundabout. It’s about a 35-45-minute drive from the center, depending on the time of day.

If you’re going by public transportation, it’s about a one-hour ride from the center. Take the M1 south from the Centrum Metro Station and get off at Wilanowska. From there, you walk down to Metro Wilanowska and take the 709 bus down to Piaseczno Energetyczna 01 and make a quick walk to the mall.

Designer Outlet Warszawa

Qul. Puławska 42E (Piaseczno), MWilanowska, tel. (+48) 22 737 31 15, www.designeroutletwarszawa.pl Open 10:00 22:00; Sun 10:00 21:00*.

The interior of Designer Outlet Warszawa feels like a city street in Paris or Rome.

Traditional Polish Dishes

Polish food is famous for being simple, rich and very filling. Below we list the most well-known dishes you simply must try while in town, all of which you should be able to order from any Polish restaurant worth its salt. Smacznego!

Bigos

Barszcz

A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with a croquette (‘barszcz z krokietem’), with miniature pierogi floating in it (‘barszcz z uszkami’), or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. A recommended alternative to other beverages, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Poland, so make sure you return home with barzszcz stains on at least one of your shirts.

Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’ ‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

Golonka

Gołąbki

Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish is like a ‘cabbage enchilada'. Consisting of boiled cabbage leaves filled with rice, onion and typically beef, gołąbki are rolled up and baked or steamed, then served with tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims that King Kazimierz IV fed his army gołąbki before the Battle of Grunwald, and their unlikely victory attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

This is ‘pork knuckle’ or ‘ham hock,’ as in the part of a pig’s leg between the knee and ankle. Boiled, braised or roasted, this is the closest the Poles come to barbecue, and is a delicacy. The meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Generally sold by weight, you might end up with more than you bargained for, but it’s certainly an Instagram opportunity. Go caveman.

Pierogi

Kotlet Schabowy

Typically served with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, this is probably the most popular meal in Poland. Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a weekend by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the sound of the meat being tenderised with a spiky mallet, so best mind your manners.

Poland’s most famous food, you can't leave PL until you’ve had them. These doughy, stuffed dumplings are typically steamed or pan-fried. Traditional fillings include potato, sweet cheese, minced meat, mushrooms and cabbage or seasonal fruits. If you nose around, you’ll find plenty of maverick fillings like chocolate, lentils or even chicken livers; the possibilities are limitless and served literally everywhere.

Żurek

Placki Ziemniaczane

These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to hashbrowns or Jewish latkes (if that means anything to you), and may be served in a variety of ways. Keep it simple with just sour cream (‘placki solo’), or turn it into a hefty meal by ordering them smothered in mushroom sauce or - our favourite - goulash (‘placki po węgiersku’). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a sour soup made from a thick stock of fermented rye flour. Typically chock full of potatoes, sausage and hard-boiled eggs, żurek is most often thickened with cream, and seasoned with marjoram, garlic, salt and pepper. The result is a tasty grayish gruel that any Polish peasant would be proud to polish off. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get it served in a bread bowl.

Drink Like a Local

The Italians have wine, the Spaniards have wine. The French…. also wine. But what does Poland do best when it comes to alcohol? Vodka and beer.

These are the two most popular alcoholic beverages in Poland, and that means that brewers and distillers alike have spent a lot of time honing their crafts. Here’s a rundown of the history of these two popular drinks.

The Long History of Vodka

The name “vodka” (an anglicised version of the Polish “wódka” pronounced “v-ood-kah”) means quite literally “little water.” The origins of the drink date back to the 8th century, when distillation was discovered and the practice began to sweep across Europe. When it comes to vodka itself, the first written record of the drink came out in 1405 in Poland.

Originally, it was used as medicine: it helped treat wounds, numb pain, make perfume. But the consumption of vodka became more popular in the 15th and 16th centuries as it became industrialized across the country, with distilleries opening in Kraków, Gdańsk and Poznań (in fact, the popular Żubrówka vodka dates back to this century).

The popularization of vodka continued at a quick clip in Poland, hitting some bumps along the way

(production slowed during the wars at the beginning of the 20th century). Now, Poland is one of the top three producers of vodka in the world, and produced nearly 100 million liters in 2016 alone.

Vodka Traditions

Poles are proud of their vodka and as a result, there are many traditions surrounding the drink. You may not run into all of them when you visit, but here’s a run-down just in case:

Na zdrowie – say this as you clink glasses and make sure to look your drinking partner in the eye or you’ll have years (some say 7, some say 5) of bad luck.

Christmas vodka – drinking a shot of vodka (sipping, not tossing it back) with some good pickled fish (Śledź) is a classic Christmas tradition. In fact, pickled fish and vodka commonly go together at any time of year.

Wedding shots – After the ceremony, the bride and groom will each get a shot of vodka and they’re supposed to down the shot, toss the glasses behind their backs, and break them. The broken glasses signify good luck in the marriage.

Polish vodka bottles at the Vodka Museum.

Vodka Types

There are many good Polish vodkas but also some classics.

Żubrówka – this is a Polish vodka from the 16th century that is just a classic staple. One popular kind has a sprig of bison grass inside, which makes the drink a little bright and earthy.

Goldwasser – bet you didn’t know this was Polish! This is a classic from the Gdańsk area, and you’ll know it because it has gold flakes floating inside and a slightly cinnamon-y taste.

Chopin – This is just a good vodka. It’s not too sharp, well balanced and it goes great with everything.

Luksusowa – Finally, the people’s vodka. This is good and affordable. This is what people buy to drink with friends on an unassuming Friday night.

Where to get it:

The better question is where not to get vodka in Warsaw? The Polish Vodka Museum (p.65) and the Vodka Museum (p.76) will each take you on a tour through the history of vodka and give you a chance to try some! Klar (G-5) is known for their unique vodka flavors, which are constantly changing as they find new ways to infuse vodka with berries, herbs and spices! Pijalnia wodki i piwa is a chain with plenty of vodka types to sample and enjoy.

Craft Beer Becomes Big

Poland also has a long history with beer that dates back to the middle ages. But it wasn’t until the 18th and 19th centuries that beer became mass produced on an industrial scale. The Tychy Brewery, which produces the extremely popular beer Tyskie, has been around since the 17th century.

The initial styles beloved by Poles were porters (dark beers) and then pale ales (much lighter beers) swiftly began to take over. Like vodka, beer production hit some bumps in the early 20th century but picked up again in the late century.

And that brings us to today – almost. While many of those lager-style beers have reigned in popularity for decades, the past 10 years have seen smaller breweries start getting in on the beer game. Many home brewing operations started making craft beer, and by making smaller batches than

industrial brewers, they were able to focus more on experimenting with non-traditional ingredients and techniques, leading to more interesting flavors.

Craft Beer Types

Pinta – around since 2010, this brewery is one of the most popular craft breweries in all of Poland, and regularly makes hazy IPAs, sour beers, pale ales, pilsners – the works!

Funky Fluid – a Warsaw-based brewery, this is another type of craft beer that’s been gaining more and more popularity over the years for its bold flavors of hoppy, wild and sour beers (and more!)

Trzech Kumpli – brewing since the start of the craft beer craze in about 2014, this brewery makes a lot of dark beers (smoked porters, Irish stouts) as well as light lagers and pilsners.

Piwne Podziemie – one of the smaller craft breweries, but that means they can really focus on their flavorand they deliver! For the beer snobs who have tried every type, this is the beer to grab.

Where to get it:

Well of course you can buy the large-scale, industrial beers (Tyskie, Lech, Żywiec) pretty much anywhere. But for craft beers, you have to know where to go. Pinta has a bar specializing in their beers on Chimelnia Street. Other bars like Jabeerwocky (G-8), Kufle i Kapsle, will also offer great craft beers, Bierhalle (p.93), and Browary Warszawskie (p.102) are very popular, too. Plus, don’t miss the beer festivals held in the spring and fall in Warsaw!

Craft Beer Tasting Boards! Photo: Meritt Thomas on Unsplash.com

Transport

Travelling around Warsaw by bus, metro and tram is fast, efficient and affordable; driving a car through the centre, on the other hand, can be confusing and frustrating. As such, for visitors the city centre is best navigated by bike, scooter, public transport or taxi/ride share - all of which are explained here. For detailed info about Warsaw’s airports and train stations, visit our website.

Public Transport

Warsaw has an extensive bus and tram system, as well as a good metro system with the M1 line running north-south and M2 running east-west. Over 1,900 buses operate in and around the city, and run 05:00-23:00. After that night buses run on most routes twice every hour. All night buses display the letter N. ‘Fast buses’ (marked with red digits) skip the smaller stops.

Standardised tickets are valid for use on the metro, buses and trams, and can be bought from machines with instructions in English at all metro stations, and some bus and tram stops. Tickets can also be purchased from machines on the actual buses and trams, where you can pay by card, or using exact change only.

A standard single fare costs 4.40zł for 75min, or 3.40zł for a 20min ticket. If you’re travelling to the further reaches of Warsaw you’ll need a 7zł ticket

that covers both zones 1 and 2 (note that the airport is still in Zone 1). Tickets valid for 24 hours, 3 days and a special ‘weekend’ ticket might also be worth considering. Those over 70 ride for free, as do children up until the end of September of the year they turn 7, but you must have photo ID (those who ride free still need a ticket/’wejściówka’ to get through the gates of the metro - find wall dispensers next to the gates and hang on to the ticket for multiple rides). Everyone else pays full fare, unless you have an ISIC card which entitles you to a reduced fare (‘ulgowy’ ticket).

Once you’re through the electronic gates of the metro, you’re ready to ride. For buses and trams, however, there’s one extra step - validating your ticket immediately once you’re on board in the small ‘kasownik’ boxes on trams and buses. Plain clothes ticket inspectors stalk the lines, dishing out hefty fines for those without valid tickets. They often don’t look very official and you are within your rights to request identification.Qwww.ztm.waw.pl

Between trams, buses, trains and the metro, you can get anywhere in the city.

Getting Around

WawaBus

WawaBus offers a private transportation service to bring you to and from the airport, your hotel, your dinner reservation an! Not only that, but the sleek, modern cars and well-experienced drivers ensure that your trips will be as hassle-free, comfortable and enjoyable as possible! In addition to being prompt and experienced, the drivers each know at least one foreign language.QG‑8, ul. Dziatwy 14C/12, tel. (+48) 515 00 10 01, wawabus.pl/en. Open 24/7.

Traficar Car Share

Download the Traficar app, find an empty vehicle, scan the QR code, and you’re in. You can leave the car in any legal parking space within their service zone, and you don’t have to pay for gas! You can rent a vehicle for as long as you want at only 4.99zł to start and then 1.69 zł per kilometer, or for 24 hours for only 69zł a day and then 2.09zł per kilometer.Qwww.traficar.pl. Prices are calculated as 4.99zł to start a journey, plus 1.69zł/km.

City Sightseeing Warsaw

If Warsaw needed proof that it is a major tourist destination surely City Sightseeing is it. 1.5 hour-long tours on familiar red double-decker buses let you take in the major sights. Buy one ticket and hop on/ off the bus of your choice, either blue or red line. Buses depart from ul. E.Plater, across from the Central Station and ul. Podwale near King Zygmunt’s Column. Travel around the Old Town, the National Museum, the Uprising Museum and plenty of other iconic Warsaw spots. Commentary available in various languages. See their site for details, routes and timetables. Buses run 7 days a week.QE‑8, ul. Emilii Plater, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 793 95 79 79, www.city sightseeing.pl. Open 10:00 18:00. Tickets 24hrs 150/120zł, 48hrs 180/150zł, 72hrs 200/170zł.

Hop on and off City Sightseeing buses as you explore the sights!

Warsaw Sightseeing

When it comes to Sightseeing, visitors should be sure to experience the dynamic synergy of Warsaw as a modern metropolis that still nurtures its cultural spirit and traditions. To this end, our guide details the capital’s most important districts, walking you through not only the antiquated Old Town (p.40), regal Royal Route (p.48) and the imperial beauty of Łazienki (p.58) and Wilanów (p.63), but also around the soaring, frenetic City Centre (p.31), happening Powiśle (p.55) and scruffy Praga (p.64). If your time is limited, however, here’s a cheat sheet of the city’s most unmissable sights.

Start with the Old Town and work your way down—all of Warsaw looks picturesque this season.

9 Essential Sights

1 Plac Zamkowy

More of a triangle than a square, and home to the Royal Castle, this popular plac is where modern Warsaw meets the Old Town.QSee p.41

2 Old Town Square

A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ of Warsaw’s golden days, the Old Town is also symbolic of Warsaw’s rise from the ruins of WWII.QSee p.44.

3 Vistula Boulevards

Warsaw’s left-bank boulevards are a favourite haunt of the locals - go and see why - walk, ride, or just chill on the riverside steps. Wow.QSee p.55.

4 Łazienki Park

Full of incredible art and architecture this massive park and palace complex offers spectacular opportunities for sightseeing or simply relaxing.QSee p.58

9 Palace of Culture & Science

Originally commissioned by Stalin as a ‘gift from the Soviet people’, this 237-metre-high structure was Warsaw’s tallest building until 2021, and takes its inspiration from the capitalist worldnamely the Empire State Building. Working around the clock, it took over 5,000 workers - ferried in from the Soviet states and housed in a purpose-built village - just three years to finish the Palace in 1955 With 3,288 rooms inside, the Palace’s purpose was to serve as not just Communist Party headquarters but also as ‘The People’s Castle.’ Now an iconic part of Warsaw’s landscape, the Palace is celebrated by some, while for others it merely represents Russian hegemony.

At present the building hosts several theatres, a cinema, numerous bars, restaurants and cafes, and a tourist info office, as well as the National Museum of Technology and the Museum of Evolution

Tours of the interiors are offered hourly in Polish between 10:00 and 15:00, and in English at 16:00. Book tickets online in advance, or skip the tour and head straight to the outdoor viewing terrace on the 30th floor (via elevator) for thrilling panoramic views; tickets available online.

QE‑8, Pl. Defilad 1, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 656 76 00, www.pkin.pl. Open 09:00 18:00. Viewing terrace open 10:00 20:00; terrace admission 28/23zł. U

5 Wilanów Palace

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17thcentury royal palace 10km to the south.QSee p.62

6

Highline Warsaw

A stunning view of the entire city is seen here, at the top of the tallest building in the EUQSee p.37.

National Museum

7

With tons of art from the 20th century and beyond, plus great exhibits on ancient Greece and rome, this is a must!QSee p. 76

8

Warsaw Rising Museum

Chronicling the heroism and tragedy of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, this modern museum packed with multimedia displays is one of PL’s best.QSee p.81.

The iconic Palace of Culture & Science is controversial amongst locals, due to its association with Poland’s communist era.

Warsaw ‘City Centre’

Known locally as ‘Śródmieście,’ Warsaw’s City Centre isn’t exactly a district (it comprises several, actually), but more of a catch-all term for the downtown area. Definitions vary, but generally, you know it when you’re in it - wide streets, monumental buildings, billboards, busy crosswalks and little to stand in the way of progress. It’s the modern, fast-paced, forwardlooking part of the city radiating out from the Palace of Culture & Science, and it’s here that you’ll find the majority of the city’s hotels, restaurants and bars, but also government buildings, skyscrapers and places of commerce - the dynamic heart of the contemporary capital.

In terms of tourism, it’s not exactly inviting, so why start here? Well, chances are you’re staying in the City Centre and probably there right now, so let’s get familiar with what’s around before running off to the Old Town (p.40). Despite not being particularly cosy or nostalgic, there are still many points of interest downtown, and nowhere more conveys the modern character of the Polish capital.

Over the last 20 years, Warsaw’s skyline has burst forth with new buildings and unique architecture.

Anielewicza

Pawia

Pawia

Gliniana

Pawia

Dzielna

Smocza

Nowolipki

Chłodna Słupecka

Spi

Nowolipie

Ogrodowa

Grzybowska

Srebrna Dzielna

Platynowa

TarczyńskaDaleka

Nowolipki

Dantyszka Złota

Reja

Places to Explore

1 Plac Piłsudskiego

Used over the centuries for military parades and national celebrations, this is Warsaw’s largest square . Named after legendary inter-war Polish leader, Józef Piłsudski ; you’ll find a statue of the Marshal guarding his naming rights with a stern gaze nearby. The space has undergone quite a few rebrandings thanks to the changing political landscape, including a stint as ‘Adolf Hitler Platz’ under Nazi occupation. During the era of Partitions, the huge orthodox St. Nevsky Cathedral was built here. Considered a symbol of Russian oppression, it was razed after Poland regained its independence. It was here that in 1979, Polish Pope John Paul II gave an open-air holy mass to 500,000 people, instilling hope in the struggle against the repressive communist system. In 2018, two new monuments were added - both relating to the tragic and highly politicised Smoleńsk Air Disaster in which a plane carrying 96 members of a Polish government delegation crashed in the Russian forest in 2010; everyone on board perished, including President Lech Kaczyński , whose monument here gazes upon that of the other victims. At the western end of the square you’ll find

the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the broken colonnades of Saxon Palace - the grand structure this square stood in front of until its destruction during WWII. Here, the ashes of unidentified soldiers who died for the Polish cause are interred and an eternal flame is guarded by stone-faced soldiers. If you enjoy a bit of military theatre, you can watch the official changing of the guard every hour, on the hour, 365 days a year.QF‑6, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.

2 Saxon Garden

Plac Piłsudskiego’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier almost serves as an entrance gate into Saski Park, aka Saxon Garden. This historic 15.5ha park is the oldest in the city, and became one of the first public parks in the world when it opened to all in 1727. At that time it was a Baroque garden with the grandiose Saxon Palace playing a role very similar to the Palace of Versailles in Paris’ famous park. Despite its demise during WWI, Saxon Garden still offers several historical points of interest, in addition to lots of benches, plenty of shade and a much-needed escape from the urban din of the capital. The centrepiece of the gardens is a large fountain created in 1855 by renowned Warsaw architect Henryk Marconi. The alleyways running out from it are lined with blooming flowers, ancient trees and neoclassical sculptures. In the northwestern part of the park, you’ll find the Romanesque Water Tower from 1825 - also designed by Marconi, and modelled on the famous Temple of Vesta in Tivoli.QF‑6, Between ul. Marszałkowska and Plac Piłsudskiego, MŚwiętokrzyska.

3 Browary Warszawskie

Once one of Central Europe’s most famous brewing complexes, this 4.5ha area has been revitalised into a trendy urban culture and gastronomy district , densely packed with dozens of restaurants, cafes, bars, bakeries and shops . Mixing bold new architecture with restored

Marconi’s fountain at the centre of Saxon Garden.

historical buildings, post-industrial design with public green spaces, the heart of this ‘city within the city’ is Food Hall Browary - 13 world cuisines at restaurant stalls in the former cellars. The historic Browar Warszawski (Warsaw Brewery) itself has also been revived and is once again producing craft beers (19 different types!) for local hopheads, while other highlights include a sports bar part-owned by Robert Lewandowski (Nine’s). The food is delicious and so is the atmosphere -- it's worth coming here for a date night, or a friend gathering or even just a simple pint after work. Plus, in the summer months, there's tons of outdoor seating! What's not to love about this place! Q C‑7, ul. Grzybowska 60, M Rondo Daszyńskiego, www.browarywarszawskie.com.pl

4 Plac Europejski & Warsaw Spire

One of Warsaw’s newest public spaces, European Square was created by Wirtz International Landscape Architecture as part of the impressive Warsaw Spire - Poland’s 3rd-tallest skyscraper at 220m. Both the square and the office building have won awards for their design. This small square has a lot of features: trees, benches, fountains, reflecting pools, two large murals, an amphitheatre, a unique Art Walk gallery where changing exhibits are displayed, and an iconic 3D Instagram-baiting installation that says ‘Kocham Warszawę’ (I Love Warsaw). Of course there are cafes, bars and food options as well, making this a very unique and worthwhile place to hang out in Warsaw’s business district.QC‑7, MRondo Daszyńskiego.

5 Fabryka Norblina

This former industrial site covering an area of 2ha near Rondo Daszyńskiego was once one of the largest enterprises in the Kingdom of Poland, with a long, complex history that dates back to the 1840s. The Norblin, Buch Brothers and T. Werner Factory (to give its full name) produced a wide range of metal, tin and silver-plated goods - sugar bowls, teapots, cutlery, vases, dishes and more - ranging from the utilitarian to true works of art. Until recently a neglected pearl of post-industrial architecture, massive investment has turned the area into a lively modern urban centre of culture, entertainment, gastronomy and commerce. Now, find over 24,000m of total commercial space open to the public. Visitors will find an impressive museum covering the site’s industrial history, the BioBazar eco (organic) food market and bistro, the KinoGram boutique cinema, an Event Hall with more than 600 square meters of event space, a fitness centre, shops, cafes and moreincluding a bevy of events.

Warsaw City Centre | Sightseeing

is a unique restaurant in the heart of Warsaw, created by SPOMLEK - the Polish Dairy.

Welcome to a culinary journey with the best Polish long maturing cheeses. Discover their rich taste in exquisite dishes, original desserts and unique combinations that will delight every gourmet!

Young families will also find a lot of options here, starting with Smart Kids Planet (p.82), an educational play center for young children to partake in the fun with highly interactive games, activities and more! . This truly is the astounding cutting edge of Warsaw’s urban culture, so check it out.QC/D‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.fabrykanorblina.pl T­E­6

6 Plac Grzybowski

This delightful square connects the city’s past to its present and unites the worlds of commerce, religion, entertainment and art. The main attraction is the 19th century Renaissance All Saints’ Church. From 1941 it was inside the Warsaw Ghetto and Parish Priest Fr. Monsignor Marceli Godlewski helped to house Jews in the rectory and assisted several to escape. Rebuilt after the war, the entire square has been recently renovated and today features dozens of benches, neatly landscaped grassy areas and even a pond with a waterfall. Very well lit, it’s a wonderful place to relax or enjoy the many bars and cafes that surround it, day or night. Joining the square is ul. Próżna, the only full street that survived the Jewish Ghetto. It is here in the former heart of the Jewish Warsaw (p.78) that the Singer Jewish Culture Festival takes place each year in late August/early September. The Nożyk Synagogue - the city’s only synagogue to survive the war and still in use today - can also be found close by at ul. Twarda 6.QE‑7, MŚwiętokrzyska.

7 Plac Defilad

BursztyNova Restaurant

Warsaw, Królewska 16 (+48) 519 310 110

Most people arrive to the Polish capital via Warszawa Centralna train station, which, together with the Palace of Culture (p.29), basically comprises Warsaw City Centre’s ground zero. Plac Defilad is the vast, concrete sprawl around the Palace of Culture, but particularly the east side. As the name ‘Parade Square’ hints, this mostly empty plot was created by communist-era city planners in the 1950s, along with the Palace of Culture. Measuring 24ha, it was until recently the second largest public square in the EU, though no one would have mistaken it for a proper square. For years it’s mostly been parking, but plenty of historical events have taken place here, from PRL propaganda parades, to massive rallies for Pope John Paul II, to Christmas markets, ice rinks and New Year’s Eve concerts. After a long construction period, the new, sleek Museum of Modern Art opened in October 2024, coinciding with the introduction of Plac Centralny (Central Sqaure) - essentially, the central part of Plac Defilad surrounding the museum is being turned into a greener, more pedestrian-friendly space under the new moniker.QF‑8, Plac Defilad, MCentrum.

8 Złote Tarasy

There is plenty of great shopping to be had in and around Warsaw, and Złote Tarasy, seated next to the central train station, is no exception with great stores like Sephora, Van Graaf and Zara. But many people actually admire the complex for its ultra modern architecture. Even if you’re not in the mood to shop, it’s a good idea to check out the space, which has a 10,000m glass dome fitted with a special mechanism to both filter sunrays and stop snow from building up. The dome itself is reminiscent of waves, water, balloons -- basically any form without a straight edge. The 1.5 billion zł project was designed by a California-based firm and construction began in 2002. After it was completed in 2004, the design - sleek, contemporary, eyecatching - won the firm an award by a famous London-based architecture magazine. It’s worth stepping inside to see the multi-level beloved behemouth in person! QE‑8, ul. Złota 59, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 222 22 00, www.zlotetarasy.pl. Open 09:00 22:00; Sun 09:00 21:00.

9 Pasaż Wiecha and the Eastern Wall Pasaż Wiecha runs parallel to ul. Marszałkowska in the shadow of departments stores, known as the ‘Eastern Wall.’ Designed by architect Zbigniew Karpiński and completed in 1969, the buildings were hailed a work of genius, but soon fell into neglect. Eventually new life was breathed into the complex. Now, find shining glass frontages added to the department stores, and granite floored pedestrian walkways and modern tubular lighting added to the section behind the Jerozolimskie end. Although once entirely dodgy, Pasaż Wiechathe long space behind the ‘Eastern Wall’ - is today lined with shops and restaurant gardens on both sides, making it an interesting area to explore. It also increasingly plays host to events like food fairs. Ironically, the centrepiece of the city’s big 1960s redevelopment plan is now a focal point in the ‘Nowe Centrum Warszawy’ plan, which will see this immediate area redeveloped once again in the near future. Start a wander east down the latter from here to see how far the city has progressed so far.QF‑7/8, MCentrum.

10 Plac Pięciu Rogów & ul. Chmielna

This lovely public square opened in July 2022 at the intersection of Bracka, Krucza, Zgody, Szpitalna and Chmielna Streets - hence the name, ‘Five Corner Square.’ Although the new design still features a lot of concrete, 22 maple trees have been added to the space, as well as numerous benches with almost 40 sitting places. Most significantly, the entire area has been opened up and given over to

Warsaw City Centre | Sightseeing

pedestrians, which is a huge improvement over the urban tangle that previously prevailed here. Plac Pięciu Rog ów is basically the centrepiece of redevelopment works throughout this area which are transforming ul. Chmielna into a high street for pedestrians A great area for exploration: you’ll plenty of cafes, restaurants, bars and intriguing places for relaxing and refuelling. Q G‑7/8, M Centrum, www.plac5rogow.pl .

11 Plac Konstytucji

A wonderful spectacle of socialist realist architecture, Constitution Square was constructed between 1950-52 to be an ‘expression of creative optimism and peaceful work within the socialist system.’ Its real purpose was to serve as a focal point for the frequent state parades, which would go from here down ul. Marszałkowska to Plac Defilad (Parade Square) in front of The Palace of Culture and Science.

Quite an anomaly in the urban fabric of Warsaw, Constitution Square was the crowning glory of the Marszałkowska Housing District - the first housing district to be completed out of the complete devastation of WWII. It was quite an achievement and heralded as a big success at the time. Dominated by three monumental street lamps looking like giant tridents, you’ll still see some socialist mosaics here and there, but things get even better along the tail

end of ul. Marszałkowska, leading to Plac Zbawiciela, where socialist reliefs of workers line the street. QG‑10, Pl. Konstytucji, MPolitechnika.

12 Plac Zbawiciela

In the aftermath of WWII, this star-shaped roundabout became dominated by PRL-era buildings from the 1950s, but still harbours a couple of gems. The first is the conspicuous Church of the Holiest Saviour, from which the square takes its name (Saviour Square). Built in neo-Renaissance style in the 1920s, that it stands is a marvel, considering it was dynamited by the Nazis during WWII and then tagged for demolition by the communists. The other pre-war building here is the handsome Jasieńczyk-Jabłoński tenement (Mokotowska 12), erected in 1910. Upon completion, it was not only one of the most modern, but also the tallest residential building in Warsaw (38 m).Q G‑10, M Politechnika.

13 Warsaw University of Technology

Known locally as Politechnika Warszawska, this is one of the largest universities of technology in Central Europe, with over 36,000 students. The historic main building is a wonder of neo-baroque architecture designed at the turn of the 19th century. Stout, sturdy and with unique rounded corners, the two-story building survived WWII bombing and was quickly

retouched after the war. Its facade features an array of architectural embellishments: sculptures, bas-reliefs, frescoes and sgraffito. If you think the exterior is impressive, head inside to see the pentagonal cloister courtyard with four stories of arcades, staircase and beautiful stained-glass roof.QF‑10, Plac Politechniki 1, MPolitechnika. Open 08:00 18:00.

14 Hala Koszyki

If you're wondering where all the students are, this might be the answer. This is one of Warsaw's handful of marvelous indoor market halls, with food, shopping, art and more! And this is definitely one to check out because it's photogenic, with a phenomenal ground-floor food hall, with everything form dim sum to gelato, burgers, fries and more! There are plenty of boutique shops and a lot of great events held here. This is urban revitalisation at its most impressive and photogenic. And great for summer, since they have a stellar outdoor garden for dining and drinking and hanging out with friends. well-worth a visit! See more on p.103 QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00 01:00.

15 Highline Warsaw NEW (in the VARSO Tower)

Right in the heart of Warsaw sits the highest tower in the EU (seriously!), this place should be your final stop after sightseeing all day. Varso tower consists of three buildings including the main building, which is the tallest in the EU and the 6th tallest in Europe at 310 meters. It was completed in 2022, and surpassed the Palace of Culture and Science as the tallest building in Poland. And there's a great way to view it—located right at the tippy top of Varso Tower, find Highline Warsaw, which allows for 360-degree views of the city thanks to their observation deck on the 53rd floor. Everything you just saw by foot, you can now see from the sky! But it’s more than just a vantage point -- the tour to the top starts with a speedy panoramic elevator (yet more views!) through an immersive corridor among the clouds. There’s an exhibition about Warsaw and an Experience Room with three films from different eras of the city’s history. Before you go to the observation deck (or after), head over to the HighGarden Rooftop Lounge (p.107) on the 49th floor, a lush cocktail bar with a terrace and garden, tons of incredible cocktails and local snacks and, of course, those views of the sunset over Warsaw. Right next door is the HighGarden Event Bar, which is a great place for private events. Plus, there’s a boutique selling souveniers and local products on the 46th floor.QE‑8, Varso Tower, Chmielna 69, MRondo ONZ, www.highlinewarsaw.com. Open 10:00 22:00.

Sk y s c r a p e r s

& Viewpoints

Warsaw has plainly stated its ambition to have more skyscrapers than any other city in Europe. The city currently has 25 buildings over 100m high, with another 10 approved for construction, and enough pending approval to potentially bring the total up to 65 in the coming years. Beloved by locals and symbolic of the city’s aspiration to be the most modern capital in Europe, here are some of the most notable towers in town.

Varso: This office complex is the tallest building in the EU at 310m (though the last 80m is a spire). At the top find the HighGarden Rooftop Lounge, with drinks and views of the city p.107 QE 8.

Palace of Culture & Science: Buy a ticket, then head up to the 30th floor of Warsaw’s oldest and second tallest skyscraper (237m) for amazing panoramic views from an actual open-air terrace More on p.29 QE 9.

Warsaw UNIT: Warsaw’s 5th tallest tower (202m) was completed in 2021. Included is the wild new adrenaline attraction Skyfall Warsaw - a vertigo-inducing glass box that dangles outside the building (available to companies and special events)QC 8.

Złota 44: Designed by Daniel Libeskind, this luxury residential tower is one of Wawa’s most beautiful and distinctive skyscrapers, and its 7th tallest (192m).QE 8.

InterContinental Hotel: At 165m, Warsaw’s InterContinental Hotel is one of the tallest 5-star hotels in the world, and features the highest swimming pool in Europe at 150m. Open to non-guests, go have a swim in the clouds.QE 8.

Centrum LIM/Warsaw Presidential Hotel: The Panorama Sky Bar on the 40th floor of this veteran skyscraper (completed 1989) offers a liquid view to the city. Although the drinks are among Wawa’s most expensive, this is one of the city’s most accessible views.QE 9.

Warsaw - THE HUB: Completed in 2020, this complex consists of two 130m buildings and an 86m building. For great views, head up to the bar on the 21st floor - The Roof (p.108).QC 8.

Atlas Tower: 119m tall and completed way back in 1999, the locals think this one looks like a porta-loo, but the 27th floor features one of the best luxury roof clubs in the world, Level 27. The building is also home to the Invisible Exhibition (p.74). QE 9.

VARSO Tower is the tallest building in the EU at 310 meters high and includes the HighGarden Rooftop Lounge (p.107) on top.

The Old Town

A labyrinth of winding cobblestone streets, ornate tenement facades and picturesque plazas, it’s easy to understand why the Old Town is Warsaw’s top tourist area. A window into the ‘once-upon-a-time’ when Warsaw was a pearl of European architecture, the Old Town was actually entirely rebuilt after WWII. Today it stands as a stunning testament of Varsovians’ great pride in their city, and its rise from the ruins. If you have only one day in Warsaw, you should spend part of it here.

In the devastating aftermath of the Warsaw Uprising (p.80), 85% of the city’s left bank lay in ruin, half of its population had perished, and the Old Town was a smouldering wasteland. To their credit the Capital Reconstruction Bureau immediately started rebuilding the historic centre using pre-war sketches, paintings and photographs. The first phase of reconstruction was completed in 1953, but works continued in the following decades, finally concluding with the opening of the Royal Castle (p.42) in 1984. Although what you see today is not strictly ‘original’ per say, its inclusion on the UNESCO World Heritage List speaks volumes of its authenticity and the effort required to recreate it.

WALKING TOUR

Our Old Town Walking Tour leads you around the oldest part of the city, showing you its most important and interesting points, beginning and ending near Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square) - the traditional entrance to the district.

The prescribed route covers only about 1.5km. If you’re only interested in the exercise, it could take less than 30mins, but ‘if done correctly’ - that is, with a couple of short culture, food and coffee/beer breaks - we reckon it will take at most several hours to complete. Make sure you’ve got a full charge on your phone/camera, comfy shoes and off you go.

Warsaw’s Old Town and Royal Castle never disappoint! Photo: Micke Mareen/Canva.

1 Plac Zamkowy

Most visits to the Old Town begin on Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square), the busy plaza where Warsaw’s medieval centre (to the north), meets the thoroughfare of its Royal Route (to the south), in the shadow of the Royal Castle. More of a triangle than a square, there isn’t a more popular meeting place in the city, with the steps of King Sigismund’s Column typically besieged by couples, schoolkids and skateboarders. A lot happens here, whether it’s political demonstrations, street performers, or the steady flow of locals and tourists out for a stroll. As for the famous column, it honours the man who in 1596 moved the Polish capital from Krak ów to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa. 22 metres tall, it was erected in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived and was returned to his perch in 1949.

Also note that there is a tourist info office located here at Plac Zamkowy 1/13 (open 10:00-18:00, Sunday 10:00-16:00). so you'll be able to find all the information you need before you explore further.

QF‑4, MRatusz Arsenał.

Plac Zamkowy is the epicenter of the Old Town and the perfect spot for photos. Photo: Tomasz Bidziński.

Old Town Walking Tour |

Old Town Museums

When it was rebuilt, Warsaw implemented a vision of its Old Town as a place of culture. Today it harbours a remarkable number of museums!

Museum of Dollhouses Games and Toys:

Over 150 detailed historical dollhouses, plus other minature settings, and old toys! The two permanent exhibits show handcrafted models, costumes and toys, while also demonstrating how tastes and fashions have changed over time. More on p. 73Qul. Podwale 15.

Museum World of Illusion: A nice reward for the kids, the exhibits will fool your eyes and meld your mind just a bit. Colors, lights and illusions! perfect for anyone who wants to learn the extent to which the mind can be easily tricked by the eye. More on p.82 QRynek Starego Miasta 21

Old Town Heritage Interpretation Centre:

This small branch of the Warsaw Museum focuses on the architectural history of the Old Town - its destruction during World War II, the rebuilding efforts thereafter, and circumstances of its eventual entry on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Qul. Brzozowa 11/13.

2 Royal Castle

The pride of Warsaw, this palace was reconstructed at incredible cost between 1971 and 1984. Much of the furniture was donated by communist-era cohorts such as the GDR and USSR, and much of the money came via generous donations from exiled Poles. Dating back to the 14th century, the castle has been the residence of Polish kings, presidents and the seat of Parliament. Some of the halls are purported to be haunted by a ‘white lady,’ whose ghostly appearance portends disaster.

Those who plonk down for admission (60zł/45zł) will have plenty to see, including the Kings’ apartments and chambers, the Houses of Parliament and the opulent Great Assembly Hall. Additional tickets are required for the Gallery of Masterpieces and the apartments of Prince Józef Poniatowski - aka the ‘Tin-Roofed Palace’ (Though the palace is currently closed until further notice).

Luckily for families, children under 7 get in for free, while those 7-16 years old have to pay 1zł! Visiting time: 2hrs.QG‑4, Pl. Zamkowy 4, tel. (+48) 22 355 51 70, www.zamek krolewski.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 60/45zł. Kids & students with valid ID, 1zł for each exhibit; Wed free for all exhibits. U

3 Jan Kiliński Monument

This huge monument honours Jan Kiliński, a Warsaw cobbler who became the unlikely hero of the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising. Despite being wounded twice, Kiliński and his troop of peasants captured the Russian Ambassador’s Warsaw residence - an action that ultimately led to his imprisonment in St. Petersburg.

Said to embody the Polish virtues of bravery and patriotism, his statue was erected in 1936 and originally located on Plac Krasińskich. In reprisal for an attack on the Copernicus Monument, Nazi troops hid Kiliński inside the vaults of the National Museum. Within days, boy scouts had daubed the museum with the graffiti ‘People of Warsaw! I am here, Jan

Jan Kiliński Monument

Photo by yasonya Canva Pro

Kiliński.’ After the war the cobbler was returned to his rightful place, before being relocated here in 1959. Kiliński’s comrade and superior Tadeusz Kościuszko himself once lived nearby at Szeroki Dunaj 5; this wide street was formerly home to Warsaw’s fish market, while the narrow street running at a 90-degree angle, Wąski Dunaj, was the town’s Jewish Quarter during the Middle Ages.QF‑4, ul. Podwale.

4 Old Town Defensive Ramparts

The first sections of Warsaw’s defensive walls date back to the late 13th century, and by the end of the 14th century they stretched 1,200 meters, enclosing an area of about 8.5ha, and included 8 towers and 4 city gates

The most famous of these now non-existent structures was the Kraków Gate on Plac Zamkowy, and the Marshall’s Tower - the highest point in the defensive structures - near the corner of ul. Krzywe Koło and ul. Brzozowa.

Already in the 15th century these defenses were deemed insufficient and a second, lower line of brick walls was built along today’s ul. Podwale at a distance of just 9-14m from the previous walls; a moat was dug in-between and the Barbican was built in 1548 as the final piece of the defenses. As Varsovians were already settling in numbers beyond the city walls, these fortifications quickly became obsolete and from the 17th century they were being demolished or incorporated into tenement buildings. Ironically it was the total destruction of the Old Town that allowed these walls to be rebuilt after WWII and today the space between the two historical brick ramparts forms a pedestrian promenade parallel to ul. Podwale known as ‘Międzymurzę.’ Apart from all the interesting history, there are some incredible modern experiences to be had here. QF‑4, Międzymurzę Jana Zachwatowicza.

5 The Little Insurgent Monument

The communist authorities continually thwarted efforts to commemorate the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, though by the early 1980s cracks in their resolve were beginning to show, and this small-butpoignant monument made its debut in 1983. Designed by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz and funded by collections undertaken by scouts, the sculpture commemorates the children who had to grow up fast, serving as messengers and frontline troops during the Uprising. With its oversized helmet and rifle, the bronze figure was inspired by the story of 13-year-old corporal Antek, himself killed in action near this spot on August 8, 1944. For history buffs, this is the spot to go, hands (or arms) down.QF‑4, ul. Podwale.

6 Warsaw Barbican

Crowning the set of the medieval defensive walls which once protected the northern entrance to the city, this fearsome rotund structure dates from 1548, built by architect Giovanni Battista Venetian on the site of an earlier gate.

Despite its intended use, the Barbican was only ever used in one fighting action when on June 30, 1656, during the Swedish deluge, Polish troops attacked to retake the city. In the 18th century, the Barbican was partially demolished with the remains being incorporated into new apartment buildings. It was during the interwar period that restoration work began to return the Barbican to its former glory, but alas, World War II put a hold to works, with it being completely destroyed.

Along with the Old Town reconstruction, the fortified wall and Barbican were restored. Today, it serves as a bridge between the Old and New Town, and is also the hangout of choice for teenage drinkers, buskers and 'artists' selling their wares. Interested in more Barbican history? During the warmer months you can pop inside to see a small exhibition put together by the Museum of Warsaw. Even if that's not available to you, make sure to swing by this spot to simply marvel at the architecture and the impressiveness. Then make sure to head back into the rest of the Old Town for a great bite (p.46)QF‑3/4

7 Old Town Square

Measuring 90 by 73 metres, the Old Town Square is prewar Warsaw’s defining highlight, lined with richly decorated tenements - keep an eye out for the ‘House Under the Lion,’ with frescos by Zofia Stryjeńska (our Polish artistic crush - look up her Crossroads!

Continue along the Old Town defensive walls to the Barbican, and on to the Old Town Square?

Or, duck out of the medieval walls and down ul. Kilińskiego, hanging a left on ul. Długa for a short <20min/1.5km walk to the POLIN Museum (D-4, p.79) via the imposing Warsaw Uprising Monument and lovely Krasiński Palace and Gardens (E-4)?

Crossroads!

Stay on target with a stroll through the Barbican towards the Old Town Square?

Or take a detour down charming pedestrian thoroughfare ul. Freta, past the Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum (p.73), en route to the New Town Square (350m away)?

Warsaw Barbican (p.44), the crowning feature of the old town defensive ramparts. Photo by Ekaterina Kolesnik / Canva Pro

work) at the southwest corner leading onto ul. Świetojańska.

Today the buildings around the Rynek host numerous cafes, restos, shops and museumsMuseum of Warsaw occupies the entire northern side of the square, Museum World of Illusion (p. 82) can be found at number 21, and number 27 is home to Warsaw’s oldest restaurant, U Fukiera (p.101).

During the 15th century the square was home to Warsaw’s Town Hall, though this was pulled down in 1817 and never replaced. Today, it features Warsaw’s best-loved monument and the city’s defining symbol - Syrenka, aka the Warsaw Mermaid Cast in 1855, this busty vixen’s form graces every bus, tram and coat of arms you’ll find in the capital. During the winter months, expect to find an excellent skating rink here and in the summer, great outdoor dining.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta.

8 Museum of Warsaw

Inside 11 conjoined historical tenements on the Old Town Square, this revamped museum’s permanent exhibit, ‘The Things of Warsaw,’ presents the city’s cultural history via 7,000 objects displayed in 22 thematic rooms. Included are portraits, postcards, souvenirs, and other items with representations of the Polish capital. Additionally, a new exhibit Testimonies from the Warsaw Ghetto shines a light on the difficult history of the city's ghetto in the 1940s, told by people who experienced it. Finally, there’s a bookstore, cafe and fabulous viewpoint overlooking the Old Town Square. Well worth a visit! Visiting time: 2-3hrs.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 28 42, www.muzeumwarszawy.pl. Open 9:00 17:00; Thu 9:00 19:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 35/25zł; permanent exhibit only 25/18zł; temp. exhibit only 20/15zł; Thu free. U­6

Warsaw Stories

Guided tours in English every Sunday at 2pm.

Museum of Warsaw 42 Old Town Market Square

www.muzeumwarszawy.pl/en

Part of the Museum of Warsaw's extensive collection.

Education partner of the Museum of Warsaw:

Eat & Drink

Warsaw’s Old Town is full of restaurants and bars, but, as this is literally the most touristy part of the city, the quality varies. When it’s time to take a break, here are a few places that are worth the money and worth seeking out.

U Fukiera: Adhering to tradition with extravagant flair, this famous restaurant on the Old Town Square offers an exceptional dining experience.Qp.101.

Gospoda pod Zygmuntem:This veteran Polish restaurant is as traditional as it gets, with potato pancakes, pierogi, kotlet, and so, so much more. Make sure to stop here for the authentic stuff.Qp.95.

Ciao Napoli: Authentic Neapolitan pizza (the best in town?), fresh seafood and a lovely space make this affordable franchise deservedly popular. Plus, there's outdoor seating! Qp.94

U Barssa: This classy restaurant brings a refreshing refinement to the Market Square with traditional Polish cuisine. Try their signature ‘Duck a la Barssa’ Qp.97.

Podwale Bar and Books: Open after 17:00, this sophisticated, dimly-lit cocktail and whiskey bar occasionally hosts live music on weekends. Qul. Wąski Dunaj 20.

9 Gnojna Góra

Demonstrating how every word sounds exotic when you don’t know the language, Gnojna Góra may sound like another charming stop on your tour. And it is for the views over the Vistula River, but not for the name, which literally translates as Shit Hill (Dung Hill, if you wish to be more polite). For centuries, this was the dumping ground for all of the Old Town’s waste. As you can imagine, it grew over time and the distinctive shape can best be seen from the bottom. At one stage it was actually renowned for its healing properties - people with obscene amounts of money would come here to be buried up to their necks in rubbish in a supposed cure for syphilis (doesn’t work, it turns out). From here head back towards the centre via ul. Dawna, whose trademark blue archway is one of the most picturesque sights in the city, then swerve onto ul. Kanonia.QG‑4, ul. Brzozowa.

10 Ul. Kanonia

Once the site of the oldest cemetery in Warsaw, Kanonia Street takes the shape of a small square, at the centre of which is a cracked cathedral bell dating back to 1646. Cast by artisan Daniel Tym (who also made the statue of King Sigismund III atop the famed column), the bell never actually rang at St. John’s Cathedral next to it, but it has developed its own legend: touch the top of the bell while walking its circumference and your wish will come true Across from the bell is one of the world’s most narrow houses at number 20/22. Only 2m across, it was designed to evade property taxes, which in the 18th century (when it was built) were calculated

The blue archway on ul. Dawna is a favourite of both locals and tourists!

based on the width of the facade facing the main street. Also note the covered walkway nearby, which links the Cathedral to the Royal Castle and was built after a failed assassination attempt on Sigismund III. The attacker, who succeeded in striking the King twice with a pickaxe before being overpowered, was subsequently dealt with using the most medieval means imaginable: stretched by four horses, he was quartered with an axe; his body was then burned, and the ashes fired from a musket so as to disperse them in the air. This was all done in public, of course, at the city’s execution place, a few blocks away at the end of ul. Piekaska.QG‑4, ul. Kanonia.

11 St. John the Baptist Cathedral

Originally built in the 14th century, St John’s is steeped in history. The last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, was crowned and buried here, and in 1791 he also declared the May 3rd Constitution inside the building. The bodies of Henryk Sienkiewicz (writer), Gabriel Narutowicz (Poland’s 1st president) and various Mazovian knights can be seen in the crypt (open Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00, Sun 15:00-17:00, closed during mass; admission 5/3zł). As with most major landmarks, it was left in a heap of ruins during the Warsaw Uprising, before being rebuilt in pseudo-gothic style. On the external wall by the main entrance are fragments of a Borgward IV - a remote-controlled demolition vehicle used by the German army.QF/G‑4, ul. Świętojańska 8, www.katedra.mkw.pl. Open 06:00 20:00; Sun 08:00 22:00.

Choose Your Adventure!

Circling back to Plac Zamkowy you can either carry on down the Royal Route (turn the page), or circle round the back of the Royal Castle for a walk through the free gardens and down along the riverbank towards Powiśle (p.54).

Ul. Kanonia Wishing Bell. Juan Antonio F. Segal, CC BY 2.0

The Royal Route

The Royal Route is lined with plenty of spots for outdoor dining in the spring.

Warsaw’s famed ‘Royal Route’ links the city’s three Royal residences, starting from the Royal Castle (p.42) on Plac Zamkowy, via Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Isle (p.60), en route to Wilanów Palace (p.62) in the district of the same name. Officially covering 11km in length, this main artery through the city takes in a great many of Warsaw’s historical buildings, parks and monuments along the way, making a trip down at least part of the ‘path of the kings’ - be it on foot, by bike, or motorised scooter - a fine opportunity to see the heart and soul of the capital.

WALKING TOUR

In lieu of the full 11km traverse, this walking tour picks up at the end of the Old Town Walking Tour (p.40) on Plac Zamkowy and guides you gently down Warsaw’s two main high streets - ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście and ul. Nowy Świat  - to the ironic/ iconic Palm Tree fittingly at the intersection of Al. Jerozolimskie (Jerusalem Street). An easy 2km/20mins on foot, along the way or very nearby you’ll find many wonderful restaurants, cafes, bars and shops, so use the rest of our guide to plan your pit stops. Once you've exhausted these options, continue on the Royal Route to Łazienki and Wilanów (while resting your feet) should you choose to, or veer off to the center of the city and see the Palace of Culture or grab a good bite to eat.

1 King Sigismund's Column

We'll start at the iconic column in front of the Royal Castle, which effectively begins the transition between Old Town and Royal Route. Built in honour of the man who moved the Polish capital from Kraków to Warsaw - King Sigismund III Vasa - this 22m column was erected back in 1664 by his son, Władysław IV. Local legend asserts that Sigismund rattles his sabre whenever Warsaw is in trouble, an occurrence first reported during the 1794 Kościuszko Uprising and again during WWII. With the Warsaw Uprising in full swing the column took a direct hit from a tank shell and came crashing down. Amazingly Sigismund survived, losing only his sword, and was returned to his new perch in 1949. The remains of the original column can be seen nearby beside the Royal Castle and has become a kind of meeting point for friends, tourists and everyone in between! QF‑4, Pl. Zamkowy

2 St. Anne’s Church & Tower

St. Anne’s survived the war with a few scratches and a bombed-out roof, but what the Nazis failed to destroy was very nearly demolished in 1949 when the careless construction of the nearby Trasa W-Z tunnel led to landslides and huge cracks in the floor of the church, which threatened to collapse; it took 400 people two weeks to stabilise the foundations. Interestingly, St. Anne’s also found disaster in the 17th century, when it survived the Swedish Deluge only to be the victim of arson two years later. The classical façade dates from 1788 and the interior holds even more classical and rococo details. The real reason to visit, however, are the splendid views from the tower - worth the 147-step climb (church open 7:00-19:00 weekdays; Sat 9:00-19:00; Sun 9:00-22:00. Tower hours below) 10/7zł. Call +48 22 374 94 84).QG‑4, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 68, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 91, www.swanna.waw.pl. Tower open 10:00 21:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 22:00.

3 Adam Mickiewicz Monument

Patriot and poet Adam Mickiewicz (1798-1855) is Poland’s greatest literary hero. Known as the ‘Father of Polish Romanticism,’ his epic poems and dramas served as inspiration for insurrections against the imperial powers that had partitioned Poland out of existence in the late 18th century. Born to an upper class Polish family in what is today Belarus, Mickiewicz attended university in Vilnius, where he began publishing his poems and became involved in political activities against imperial Russia, which now occupied the former territory of the PolishLithuanian Commonwealth. These activities saw him exiled to Russia in 1824, but Mickiewicz was able

The Adam Mickiewicz monument.

Photo by Michał Bednarek Canva Pro

to leverage connections he made in the salons of Moscow and St. Petersburg to escape to the west in 1830, eventually settling in Paris. A champion of freedom, he died during a cholera outbreak in Turkey, while recruiting a Polish legion to fight the Russians in the Crimea in 1855. His body today lies with those of the Polish kings in Kraków’s Wawel Cathedral. To learn more, visit the Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature on the Old Town Square (F-4).

This monument was first unveiled in 1898 on the 100th anniversary of Mickiewicz’s birth. Sculpted by Cyprian Godebski, the monument was destroyed by the Nazis, however, after WWII, Polish soldiers recovered Mickiewicz’s head and other demolished parts in Hamburg. Sculptor Jan Szczepkowski was able to produce a copy of the original sculpture, which was unveiled, along with its restored surroundings, in 1950.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 21 23, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.

4 ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście

Krakowskie Przedmieście is easily one of Poland’s most prestigious and well-known streets - the price tag of the rents matches the prestige! The street stretches from the Royal Castle in the Old Town (p.40) until it blends into ul. Nowy Świat. It is along the length of this street, and beyond, that you will easily find our list of things to see along the way - it’s almost impossible to get lost! As you walk along the route, be sure to stop at any of the 15 Chopin Benches. Designed by Professor Jerzy Porębski, they feature a button, when pressed, unleash a 30 second torrent of Chopin. Each bench contains descriptions in EN/PL to the site’s relevance to the composer. This is a delightful walk down one of the prettiest parts of the city. QG‑4, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.

5 Presidential Palace

Guarded by lions and stern-looking soldiers, of all the landmarks that line Krakowskie Przedmieście, none is more important than the Presidential Palace. Construction began in 1643 at the behest of Stanisław Koniecpolski, though was only completed after his death. It then passed into the hands of various aristocratic families, becoming famed for its banquets in the 18th century - the most extravagant of which marked the coronation of Stanisław II August Poniatowski in 1789; over 2 million PLN was spent entertaining the 4,000 guests.

Poniatowski proved to be one of the nation’s most controversial monarchs - and also its last. Among his successes was the Constitution of May 3, 1791 Signed on these very grounds, it was the

2nd such document in the world, after the US Constitution. The large monument in front of the Palace is of the king’s nephew, Józef Poniatowski

A Polish general, he defended Warsaw during the Kościuszko Uprising and eventually died in the service of Napoleon.

After 1818 the Palace became the seat of the Viceroy of the Polish Kingdom, entertaining many a visiting Tsar before burning down in 1852. At the beginning of the 20th century an entire wing was demolished to make way for the Hotel Bristol. When Poland regained its independence in 1918, the Palace was commandeered to serve as home for the Prime Minister, and somehow it survived WWII. More momentous events came in 1955 when the Warsaw Pact - the Soviet Union’s answer to NATO - was ratified within its walls. Since 1994 it has served as the official home of the Polish president, which is why you’ll find streams of limos heading in and out.

QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 46/48, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.

Crossroads!

Carry on down the Royal Route? Or perhaps hang a right after the Hotel Europejski down ul. Tokarzewskiego-Karaszewicza towards Plac Piłsudskiego (p.32)? Choose the latter to see Warsaw’s largest square and escape the urban hub-bub via the lovely Saxon Garden, a stroll through which leads you into the City Centre and on a path to Hala Gwardii (E-6) and Hala Mirowska (D-6) - two massive indoor markets 15-20mins on foot from where you’re standing.

Bristol Hotel is always a stunning sight.

6 Bristol & Europejski Hotels

Two of the biggest, most famous landmarks on prestigious ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście are former palaces turned luxury hotels today. The first is Hotel Bristol at number 42/44. First built in 1900, a brass plaque outside boasts of its many famous guests: Picasso, Nixon and Dietrich, to name a few. In 1993 it was restored to its pre-war glory and the re-opening ceremony was such a big deal, it was attended by Ms. Margaret Thatcher. Refreshed repeatedly since, it is certainly among the very top hotels in the capital, boasting an interior by world-renowned designer Anita Rosato that blends secessionist and art deco glamour with modern luxury. If you can’t afford to spend the night, you can still drop in to the wonderfully old school Cafe Bristol - a perfect place for coffee or breakfast.

Across the street is the revamped Raffles Hotel Europejski. The first hotel to reopen after WWII, it entered Varsovian folklore in 1967 when a group of young upstarts calling themselves ‘the Rolling Stones’ stayed here, under the watchful eye of the authorities, and had themselves quite a time tipping back vodkas in the hotel bar. In 2018 the hotel was refurbed for the Raffles brand and today it is a stunning luxury space full of contemporary art and custom furnishings. If you want to have your proverbial socks knocked off, explore the building’s many first-rate dining and drinking venues, Though you might not be able to afford anything, you can still wander through Europejski Boutiques - the most exclusive shopping experience in the country.QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, 13, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.

7 Chopin Benches

The good city of Warsaw has devised one more way to bring Chopin to the people, and that’s by way of fifteen musical benches that have been placed at key sites connected with his life since 2019. Made of cast iron and polished black granite, these benches feature a button which, when pressed, unleash a thirty second torrent of Chopin. They also come equipped with a route map as well as brief explanations in Polish and English as to the site’s relevance to Chopin. Each one comes inscribed with a QR code – scan it and download the Chopin App to access audioguides, Chopin melodies, facts, figures and photographs. This is, at the very least, a fun little trick to show your friends as you sit down for a much-needed rest while exploring the Old Town and Royal Route!QG‑6, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, www.biuro.chopin2010.pl

Eat & Drink

Cucina Mia (Sheraton Grand Warsaw): Elegant, traditional Italian dishes bursting with flavor from earthy truffles to Amalfi lemons and fresh Sicilian fish. Qp.94

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi: Immense portions of traditional Polish fare and charming service. What's not to like?.Qp.95.

Syrena Irena: With incredible pierogi - both traditional and unique flavors - and a photoworthy interior, this spot really shines!Qp.97

Zwierciadło Restaurant: The whole menu is a tribute to Warsaw, with traditional dishes rich in flavor, made with seasonal ingredients as well as excellent cocktails.Qp.97.

8 The University of Warsaw

Carry on further and you’re in Warsaw Universityland, the main campus of which lies beyond the grand gateway of number 26/28. Dating from the 17th century the main building, known as ‘Villa Regia,’ was remodelled and renovated several times before Warsaw Uni was established here in 1816. The university had a tough time under Russian rule; closed in retaliation for the 1830-31 Uprising the uni continued to operate underground, though by 1859 the Tsar calmed down enough to rubber stamp the creation of a School of Medicine. Today, with some 48,000 students on the roll call, the university stands out as the largest and

Sciences.

arguably best in Poland. Notable alumni include former Israeli premier Yitzhak Shamir, writer Witold Gombrowicz, award-winning travel writer Ryszard Kapuściński, the late president Lech Kaczyński and the poet Julian Tuwim. Q G‑6, Krakowskie Przedmieście 26/28, M Nowy Świat Uniwersytet, www.en.uw.edu.pl

9 Holy Cross Church

No self-respecting Chopin fan (is that you?) can leave Warsaw without first visiting the final resting place of his heart. Smuggled out of Paris in a jar of booze by his sister (true story), Chopin’s heart was brought to the church in accordance with his final wishes in 1882 and is sealed in an urn behind a tablet bearing his likeness, specially carved by Leonardo Marconi.

Although Chopin’s ticker serves as the church’s key draw there are several other notable features and funereal remains to tempt you inside this astonishing Baroque creation. These include another urn with the remains of Nobel Prize-winning author Władysław Reymont, and tablets honouring various Polish icons including poet Juliusz Słowacki and WWII hero Władysław Sikorski. The organ, built in Salzburg in 1925, is also the largest in Warsaw.

Throughout a history that dates back to the 15th century, Holy Cross Church has played a role in Warsaw’s glories and calamities. It was here that the last Polish King forged the Order of the Knights of St Stanislaus, and it was directly outside in 1861 that Russian troops brutally suppressed a patriotic protest. It was this bloodbath that lit the touchpaper for the January Uprising of that year. Devastated during the Warsaw Uprising in 1944, the church was painstakingly rebuilt at the end of the war and is today a feast for the heart, eyes and soul. Masses start at 6:00 a.m. and run daily at designated times. Parish hours are below.QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 826 89 10, www.swkrzyz.pl. Open Tues, Wed 10:00 12:00, 16:00 18:00; Thu, Fri 10:00 12:00.

10 Nicolaus Copernicus Monument

The founder of modern astronomy. A sheltered academic, Copernicus made his observations alone, a century before the invention of the telescope. His book De Revolutionibus (1543) posited that the earth rotated on its axis once a day, travelled around the sun once a year, and that man’s place in the cosmos was peripheral. Though obvious today, this was an utterly radical idea at the time. Although those who propagated his ideas were burned at the stake and the Catholic church placed De Revolutionibus on its list of banned books (as late as 1835), there was no

Copernicus monument at the Polish Academy of

turning back progress. The modern cosmological view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy.

The statue itself was unveiled in 1830 and has seen its share of adventure. During WWII the Nazis placed a new plaque here insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp! - a German. A boy scout named Alek Dawidowski ducked the guards and removed the plaque. Boiling with fury, the Nazis removed the monument, then dynamited a few others for good measure. The statue was recovered after the war, and Dawidowski entered Polish folklore for his bravery. QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet.

11 ul. Nowy Świat

The name of this street means “New World” and it is an apt description; just south of ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście, Nowy Świat has a similar look to the Old Town but instead of museums and history, you’ll find food, beer, live music and a street constantly bursting at the seams with life. Like much of the Old Town, Nowy Swiat was also razed during WWII, but was rebuilt almost immediately following in a neoclassical style, rather than its pre-war Art Nouveau style. Legend (and history) goes that this street was rebuilt based partly on paintings of its pre-war ancestor. Make sure to stop by Karmello for some chocolate nosh and coffee. If it’s nightlife you’re after, there’s plenty of bars: Dom Whisky Cocktail Bar (open until 4 a.m. all week) will serve all the bright colored drinks you want; across the street, Kufle i Kapsle has a craft beer menu that will make even the snobbiest beer snob happy. We could go on, but there is a lot in the way of eating and drinking and fun. Finish your journey by taking in the towering palm tree 12 at the intersection between Nowy Świat and Al. Jerozolimskie, an art installation that’s a beloved little touch of the tropics in the middle of town. QH‑8.

Warsaw’s famed Palm Tree!

Powiśle: Warsaw’s Riverside District

Once a mundane area of apartment blocks and industrial decay, over the past two decades Powiśle has transformed into one of Warsaw’s most intriguing and eclectic areas to explore.

Considering its plum location along the riverside, it’s hard to believe that this large neighbourhood was essentially a cultural dead zone until skyrocketing rent costs in the centre forced Warsaw to reconsider its potential. Now, Powiśle has become a hotspot for everything cool, young and happening in Warsaw, so much so that the city decided to recently open a gorgeous pedestrian bridge tying the Praga (p.56) area east of the river to Powiśle (you can access it via Ul. Karowa in Powiśle or Ul. Okrzei in Praga.) The history of Powiśle's growth is interesting: Warsaw University was the first to pitch a tent in the area, creating a draw since 2002, and the adjacent opening of the Copernicus Science Centre (p.56) in 2009 invited further cultural investments. Then the Metro (2015) helped make it into a popular place for public recreation. The redevelopment of the former Elektrownia Powiśle (p.56) power plant into a space for events, dining and shopping (2020) typifies the high-powered investment taking place here today. Still, Powiśle maintains an authentic local vibe thanks to its balance of both trendsetting gastro spots and boho dives (like the iconic rotund Warszawa Powiśle bar I-7). Roll yourself downhill towards the river from Warsaw’s Old Town or City Centre to discover what’s good in this hood!

What to See

1 Fryderyk Chopin Museum

Warsaw’s Chopin Museum is touted as one of the most high-tech in Europe. Three floors of interactive exhibits cover the composer’s life in every aspect, including a recreation of his Paris drawing room, the last letter he wrote to his family, his death mask, and even an intriguing section on his social circle. In addition, there are dozens of touchscreens, audio-visuals, and musical games, making the museum a highly interactive experience that will keep visitors of all ages engaged. Thirty-minute live concerts take place every Sat and Sun at 12:00, 15:00 and 17:00 (available to all museum visitors). Visitor numbers are restricted, so we suggest reserving tickets online in advance. Located in the famous Ostrogski Palace, the building’s catacombs are said to be home to the legendary Golden Duck - a princess charmed by the Devil before being transformed. Visiting time: 1hr. Q H‑7, ul. Okólnik 1, M Nowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 441 62 51, www.muzeum.nifc.pl Open 10:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 35/25zł.

Aerial view of Powiśle, with Elektrownia Powiśle (p.56) at its heart.

2 Powiśle Mermaid Statue

Warsaw’s ‘Syrenka’ - the iconic freshwater warrior mermaid - has been representing the Polish capital since time immemorial. The monument here is the second-most famous statue of the city’s symbol (the first being on the Old Town Square, (p.44), though this one actually overlooks the river the mythical icon is alleged to have dwelled in.

At 2.75 metres tall, the the bronze monument was created by sculptor Ludwika Nitschowa and unveiled in June 1939, just months before the outbreak of WWII; remarkably it stood unscathed in this exact spot throughout the entire war while the rest of Warsaw's left bank was devastated.r. Q I‑6, Bulwar Bohdana Grzymały Siedleckiego (near Most Świętokrzyski), M Centrum Nauki Kopernik.

3 Vistula River Boulevards

Warsaw has modernised and improved its left bank dramatically in the last decade. The Powiśle boulevards flanking the Świętokrzyski Bridge and leading north to the Old Town have seen the most development and are now a popular thoroughfare for walking, running, cycling and skating, as well as bars, cafes and restaurants - particularly in the warmer months - plus parks and leisure spaces.

In the summer months, it's the perfect place to wander and lounge. Grab a drink or snack at the vendors that line the banks and relax on the steps with all the other cool locals. Check out the barges with restaurants, dancing, music and more, too. It’s fair to say that Warsaw’s river boulevards are now among the best in Europe so don’t miss checking them out while you're here.QI‑6, Generała George’a Smitha Pattona, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik.

Warszawa Powiśle Centrum Nauki Kopernik

Eat & Drink

When it’s time for a rest or a feed, there are many worthy venues on and around ul. Solec - one of the main streets in the area, as well as numerous food trucks and barges moored up along the river. Also, Elektrownia Powiśle has an entire food hall inside, so your options are manifold. Here are a few other notable venues in the neighbourhood:

Daebak: . Authentic Korean bento boxes served up in a prime location. Choose your own courses from the regularly changing menu, and enjoy Korean food on the go!Qp.94.

LAS: Lush but refined, this ‘forest’ uses local, seasonal ingredients to create contemporary incarnations of Polish classics, plus unusual cocktails.QI-7, ul. Solec 44.

PaTaThai Powiśle: Authentic Thai dishes from all over Thailand, all bursting with flavor like jucy duck and savory curry. Seafood, chicken and tofu all get their due here and it's famiily-friendly, too!Qp.96.

4 Elektrownia Powiśle

Once one of the largest electrical power plants in Europe, Elektrownia Powiśle powered the Polish capital from 1904 to 2001 before it was closed and left to crumble. Purchased by a developer in 2016, the historic industrial site was transformed into a multifunctional, mixed-use urban centre. Covering a massive 50,000m2, much of the site has been converted into offices, apartments and a hotel, but a remaining 15,000m2 in the former boiler and engine buildings comprises commercial space for retail, gastronomy and wellness. Reopened in 2020, today Elektrownia offers four levels of shopping, and is a culinary hotspot with 41 restaurants bars and cafes across the complex (see their Food Hall on p.102). Additionally, there is a 1500m2 Beauty Hall offering over 350 cosmetic treatments from 7 beauty concepts. Events are frequently hosted in the courtyards between the buildings, including a regular farmer’s market, yoga lessons and film screenings. There are plenty of reasons to check out one of Warsaw’s most exciting urban renewal projects.QH/I‑6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Open 11:00 21:00. Food Hall open 12:00 23:00, Fri 12:00 24:00, Sat 11:00 24:00, Sun 11:00 23:00. T­U­6­K

5 Copernicus Science Centre

An example of EU funding being used in a genuinely visionary way, the CSC is the very best science centre in Europe, and one of Warsaw’s top tourist attractions. The fun starts as soon as you encounter the museum’s very own ‘Robothespian’an interactive humanoid robot - at the front doors, before exploring several hundred hands-on exhibits across two floors that will have you actively pressing buttons, answering quizzes, and even exerting yourself physically. In addition to temporary exhibits, there are zones specially designed for the youngest visitors up to teens and adults. Visiting time: 3-4hrs.

QI‑6, ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 596 41 00, www. kopernik.org.pl Centre Open 09:00 19:00; Fri 09:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 19:00. Closed 1st Mon of every month. Planetarium open Mon 10:00 15:30; Tues, Wed 10:00 19:30; Thu 10:00 20:00; Fri 10:00 21:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 20:00. Roof Garden: May Aug: 10:00 20:00; Sept Oct: 10:00 17:00 www.kopernik.org.pl/en/ planetarium. Admission 46/32zł; holidays & weekends 48/34zł; planetarium 32/23zł. U

6 Kładka na Wiśle (Footbridge)

This long-awaited pedestrian footbridge opened in late March, connecting Praga on the east side of the river with Powiśle on the west. You can access it near Karowa Street in Powiśle (around Mariensztat below). The gorgeous bridge is the longest pedestrian bridge in Poland, and it's is meant for walkers and cyclers alike. In the warmer months, you'll likely find plenty of people meandering, some live music, some people selling ice cream and cotton candy. In the chillier months, make sure to bundle warmly as you cross the 502-metre structure, and enjoy some design features like viewing platforms and rest areas. The Polish name, Kładka na Wiśle, means "Footbridge on the Vistula River". If you want to connect from the Old Town to Centrum Praskie Koneser (p. 18 ) this bridge is the way! QH‑5, Karowa 6.

7 Warsaw University Library Rooftop Gardens

Traditionally speaking, rooftops are the preserve of chimney sweeps, superheroes and Santa, but visit the Warsaw University Library (BUW) building and that opinion will quickly change. Topping off the bizarre oxidised green building is a lovely two-level rooftop garden filled with bridges, streams and sculptures that covers an entire hectare; there’s even a fishpond and a stone fountain mixed in among the oak trees and Japanese spirea. Designed by Irena Bajerska and opened back in 2002, the garden affords panoramic

views of lower left-bank Warsaw and across the river to Praga. A wonderful place to stop and rest in the heart of the city, take a picnic and sit amongst the groups of students taking time out from studying (ahem, napping). While you’re there, we also highly recommend visiting the BUW Gallery to see some fantastic Polish poster art (open 13:00-18:00, Sat 13:00-17:00, closed Sun; admission free). Library open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00, Sun 15:00-20:00. Admission free.QH‑5, ul. Dobra 56/66, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, www.buw.uw.edu.pl. Open 08:00 20:00. Library open Mon Sat 09:00 21:00; Sun 15:00 20:00. Rooftop Gardens accessible April 1 October 31 only. Admission free.

8 Mariensztat

Cut off from the rest of the Old Town, the northernmost part of Powiśle has its origins in the 18th century when a nobleman received the land as part of a dowry. The area was built in 1762 and named after his wife, with the latter part of the name 'stadt' (changed to 'sztat' after World War II) being added to appease the Saxon king of Poland at the time, King Augustus III.

Completely destroyed during the Warsaw Uprising, it was rebuilt after the war using a totally different street plan; the architectural design aimed to evoke a look mixed between 18th century buildings in the Praga district while also incorporating a socialist realist element. the picturesque neighbourhood is full of small parks and winding streets and provides a leafy retreat from the crowds just a short distance away from the heart of the Old Town. In previous centuries, Mariensztat was notorious for its bordellos and bare-knuckle boxing matches, and its main square was once the home of a bustling market - a role today commemorated by a statue of a woman with a chicken and basket of goods, found on ul. Sowa 4. Today, though it looks a little sleepy, Mariensztat ranks as one of Warsaw's most engaging district.QG‑4/5, ul. Mariensztat.

Choose Your Adventure!

From Powiśle it’s exceedingly easy to get to Praga (p.64) or the City Centre (p.30) through a lovely (albeit a little long) walk along the river toward the south. Alternatively, head north along the river to return to the Old Town (p.40) or check out New Town’s Multimedia Fountain (F-3), which is a popular attraction for young families; both are about 2km/20mins on foot.

Łazienki Park

In summer, Łazienki Park’s Palace on the Isle is the ultimate spot for photos. Photo: Paweł Czarnecki.

This glorious 17th century park, spread over 74 hectares, is one of Warsaw’s unparalleled highlights, adored year-round by locals and visitors alike. Although it seems as if half of Warsaw spends its fall Sundays here, the park is so vast that it never feels crowded and offers an enchanting opportunity to escape the capital’s modern-day gloom and get lost in its nostalgic past. Don’t mistake Łazienki for a simple city park; it is also a museum complex full of wonderful art and architecture. Don’t miss it.

The full/proper name of today’s park is ‘Łazienki Królewskie,’ which means ‘Royal Baths’ and is derived from the park’s centrepiece, the Palace on the Island The palace was originally built in the 17th century as a private bathhouse for Stanisław Herakliusz Lubomirski, owner of the nearby Ujazdowski Castle and much of the surrounding land (and much of Poland, come to mention it). The bathhouse was bought by the last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, in 1772 and converted into a private residence.

It was at this time that the grounds were formally laid out as a private garden. Perfect for romantic strolls, family picnics and cultural outings, today the park is packed with gorgeous sculptures and monuments, palatial architecture and priceless art, lovely landscapes of bridges and ponds, plus cafes, restaurants and more. The whole park is a must when visiting the city -- don't miss it!

Tickets & Info

While the park is free, the indoor exhibits require a ticket

Ticket 1: Includes just sites: the Palace on the Isle, the Old Orangery, Myslewski Palace, White Pavilion, Water Tower, Stables, Barracks, and Podchorążówka: 70/35zł.

Ticket 2: Includes just the Cantonal Barracks and the Kubicki Stables, 30/15zł

Ticket 3: All places listed above, plus temporary exhibit, "Royal Garden Life": 90/45zł.

For all exhibits, kids under 7 & students under 26 1zł for all three tickets. Buy tickets from cash desks or machines at the Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship.Q H‑12, M Politechnika, tel. (+48) 22 50 60 024, www.lazienki krolewskie.pl. Park open daily 06:00 22:00. Indoor exhibitions open from May to the end of September, Tues Wed 10:00 17:00; Thu Fri 10:00 18:00; Sat 12:00 20:00; Sun 10:00 16:00. Closed Mon and holidays.

Belvedere Palace

The Belvedere Palace was the residence of Polish presidents from 1918 to 1995 and then again during the presidency of Bronisław Komorowski from 2010-2015 (Presidents Aleksander Kwaśniewski, Lech Kaczyński and current president Andrzej Duda opted to live in the Presidential Palace on ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście) Built in 1694 and thoroughly remodelled in 1818, the building is essentially offlimits to visitors, but an eyeful to behold. A wonder of Neo-Classical design, complete with tympanium and oversized Corinthian columns, the best views and photo ops are fetched from outside the park on Al. Ujazdowskie.QH‑12, ul. Belwederska 56.

Chopin Monument

Don’t miss this famous art nouveau sculpture of Warsaw’s favourite son, Fryderyk Chopin. Depicting the composer right here in Łazienki beneath a willow tree, the work by Wacław Szymankowski was erected in 1926. As part of the Nazi campaign against Polish culture it was dynamited by the Germans on May 31, 1940; as the story goes, the following day an unknown patriot placed a placard on the wreckage declaring: ‘I don’t know who destroyed me, but I know why; so I don’t play the funeral march for your leader.’ An original plaster-cast allowed the statue to be revived and this reconstruction was unveiled in 1958. QH‑12.

Mikkego

Warsaw’s iconic Chopin monument.

Photo by vodolej / AdobeStock.

Getting There

Any number of buses stop in front of the park’s three main entrances on ‘Al. Ujazdowskie’, including numbers 116 (from Old Town/Nowy Świat) and 180 (from Al. Jerozolimskie, bus stop ‘PKP Powiązki’); get off at the ‘Łazienki Królewskie’ bus stop. Accurate times and routes can be checked online at warsaw.jakdojade.pl

Old Orangery

A good place to start a visit to Łazienki, the Old Orangery is one of two ticket offices and tourist info points in the park. Originally erected in 178588 to house exotic trees through the once-harsh Polish winter, the sunny structure also harbours King Stanisław August’s Royal Theatre - one of the few surviving 18th century court theatres in Europe. Constructed out of wood and covered in marblised polychromes, the ground floor is rather modest with simple benches on risers, while the upper level features nine boxes with eight female figures gripping candleholders in between. Interestingly, the space above the boxes has been painted to create the illusion of yet another level, complete with an 18thcentury court audience. The theatre is still used today to host chamber concerts. The other important aspect of the Old Orangery is the Royal Sculpture Gallery Stanisław August collected hundreds of marble and plaster copies of the most famous sculptures from antiquity. Now, 120 of the most important of these casts are uniquely displayed inside the Orangery, against a painted backdrop by court artist Johann Christian Kamsetzer. Visiting time: 30mins.QI‑11.

Palace on the Isle

The Palace on the Island is Łazienki’s raison d’etre and therefore, a true must-visit when you're going to the park. Built as a Baroque bathhouse in 1683, the structure was converted into a Neoclassical residential palace in the late 1700s by King Stanisław August. Located on an island in the middle of a narrow lake, and connected by colonnaded bridges on each side, the façades are unified by giant Corinthian pilasters that link its two floors. Today, almost all of the palace can be visited, including the King’s private rooms. The main reception room, Solomon’s Hall, is decorated in the most extravagant of Baroque styles with a series of paintings depicting the History of Solomon. In 1793, King August converted the palace into the first modern public museum, displaying the most important paintings from his collection. Visiting time: 45-60mins.QI‑11.

Myślewicki Palace

Built in the 1770s and 80s, this elegant semi-circular palace was originally conceived as King Stanisław August's primary residence, though it gradually shifted to more diplomatic functions, hosting official state soirees and accommodating foreign ministers. Designed in Early Classicist style, the unique recessed entrance is decorated with mythological sculptures. After a thorough renovation, the building again appears very much as it would have in the late 18th century.Visiting time: 30mins.QJ‑11.

Museum of Hunting & Horsemanship

Very much as advertised, this museum will appeal to avid hunters and horse lovers, though the latter may have some trouble with all the mounted trophies. If the trophies are too much, you can skip the former Cantonists’ Barracks - built in 1826–1828 and full of hunting arms and taxidermied animals - and head straight to the Kubicki Stables, built 1825–1826 and home to an exhibit of horse-drawn carriages, saddles, harnesses and riding accessories. The Stables also host the Royal Weaving Workshop - featuring 19thcentury Jacquard looms, ornamental fabrics, old fabric patterns and more. Visiting time: 1hrQJ‑12, ul. Szwoleżerów 9. Admission 30/15zł; kids under 7 free; students under 26, 1zł. Fri free.

Botanical Garden

Part of the University of Warsaw, these separate gardens at Łazienki have several greenhouses stuffed with exotic, weird and wonderful species from all over the world, but what brings in the crowds are the stunning rose gardens just behind the main entrance. A riot of colour when in full bloom, the gardens are the preferred subject matter of art students, who set up their easels early and paint until the guards kick them out at sunset. Given such lush scenery, it’s tempting to find a bench and do the same. Open from March onwards.QH‑11, Al. Ujazdowskie 4, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 553 05 11, www.ogrod.uw.edu.pl. Open 10:00 18:00. From March to April open 10:00 18:00. From May to August open 10:00 20:00. September open 10:00 18:00. October open 10:00 17:00. greenhouses open from Tuesday to Sunday. Admission 20/10zł (park and greenhouses), kids under 7 free.

White Pavilion

This small villa was built in 1774, and was the first building King Stanisław August had erected on the grounds. Originally meant to be his summer residence, evidence suggests that the King’s sisters

actually took up lodging here more than he did. Escaping WWII unscathed, the villa largely retains its original layout, lushly painted decor and period furnishings, and boasts a unique two-level roof terrace. On the ground floor the Gallery of Prints displays selections from Ovid’s ‘Metamorphoses’part of the King’s personal collection of 4300 prints, from which only about half survive today. The building is open to the public from the beginning of May to the end of September only Visiting time: 20mins.QI‑11, ul. Agrykoli 1, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 506 00 28, www.lazienki krolewskie.pl. Open 10:00 17:00; Thu, Fri 10:00 18:00; Sat 12:00 20:00; Sun 10:00 16:00; closed Mon. Combined ticket allows entrance to main attractions, 70/35zł; kids under 7, free; students under 26, 1zł; Fri free.

Theatre on the Island

Crossing the tail of Łazienki’s serpentine lake, follow the path that leads along the embankment until you hit the park’s Amphitheatre, also known as the ‘Theatre on the Island.’ The theatre hosts productions throughout the summer, though unless you fancy seeing Henry V in Polish these will hold little interest for foreign visitors. (There are exceptions: ballet and contemporary dance performances sometimes are kaput on here.) It's still worth a visit to at least take in the local atmosphere and see a live play.QJ‑12, MPolitechnika, www.lazienki krolewskie.pl

Eat & Drink

Łazienki has several cafes and restaurants, though most of them are very pricey. Head out of the main gates to Plac Unii Lubelskiej (H-12) for more casual options.

Belvedere: Located in the park’s New Orangery, this is one of Warsaw’s most prestigious restaurants and worth the money, but not for families after a day in the park.QI 12.

Być Może: This hip cafe/bistro bakes its own bread, offers all-day breakfast and daily lunch specials, and is perfect whether you’re craving coffee or wine. QH 12, ul. Bagatela 14.

DZiK (Dom Zabawy i Kultury): This old residence offers European cuisine and hosts a wide range of evening events, getting wild on weekends.QI‑13, ul. Belwederska 44 A.

Viet's Baguette: This deli offers 21 varieties of banh mi, known as a 'Vietnamese hoagie.' A great place to stop in before you head to the park.

QG/H 12, ul. Puławska 7/9.

Klonn: Centrally located for perfect post-park bites, this stylish parkside resto is worth it for modern cuisine and excellent wine. QH-11, ul. Jazdów 1B.

The interior of the Palace on the Isle is a stunning look at royal life.

Wilanów

The ‘Polish Versailles’ is just one of the many fitting monikers applied to this splendid late 17th-century 45ha palace and garden complex 10km south of the centre.

Essential visiting for anyone wishing to understand the former grandeur of the Polish capital, Wilanów is more than just a palace. As one of the few existing remnants of the era when Poland was a vast kingdom stretching from the Baltic to the Black Sea, today it also represents the European splendour and sophistication that was lost and few today associate with Warsaw. The palace, park and surrounding ensemble of buildings also represent the height of Polish Baroque and are collectively one of Poland’s greatest cultural treasures. If the weather’s good and you’ve got time to spare, it’s easy to spend most of a day relaxing and taking in the sites here.

Getting There

10km south of the centre, Wilanów is best reached by bus or taxi, though the latter costs 35-40zł and essentially takes the same amount of time: 25-35mins. All buses stop directly outside the palace gates at the ‘Wilanów’ stop. From Plac Zamkowy (F-4), Pl. Trzech Krzyży (H-8) or Łazienki Park (H-11) take buses 116 or 180. From Warszawa Centralna train station (E-8) take bus 519. For exact times and routes, check warsaw.jakdojade.pl

What to See

Wilanów Park & Gardens

The 45 hectares that make up Wilanów Park developed over the centuries. The park’s present form dates from the extensive and mostly faithful renovations made during the 1950s. Comprising a two-level Baroque garden, a Neo-Renaissance rose garden, a classical English landscape park and the so-called English-Chinese landscape park, recent revitalisation works and archaeological digs discovered several arctefats, including ceramics dating from the 12th century. The park opens daily from 9:00-21:00. Sept: 9:00-19:00QP‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow palac.pl. Park Admission 10/5zł, Thu free (0zł ticket is still required).

Wilanów Palace Museum

The first museum at Wilanów was opened in 1805 by the palace’s owner at the time, Stanisław Kostka Potocki. The current museum, which takes up a substantial portion of the palace’s interior, comes in two parts. The first is the upstairs Polish Portrait Gallery - comprising room after room of portraits of the rich and the powerful from the 16-19th century.

Gaudy grandeur and lush gardens at Wilanów. Photo: Ł. Kopeć © City of Warsaw.

Next you’ll find yourself downstairs in the Wilanów Palace Residence, featuring residential rooms, suits of armour, Etruscan vases, magnificent frescoes and even a private chapel. Most impressive are the private apartments of King Jan III Sobieski and his wife, while the wings house the apartments of the subsequent owners of the palace. Visit the Wilanów Palace website for info about temporary exhibits and tickets. A ticket also gets you into the park. Visiting time: 2hrs.QP‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 10/16, tel. (+48) 22 544 27 00, www.wilanow palac.pl. Open 10:00–16:00; Wed 10:00 18:00; closed Tue. Last entrance 1hr before closing. Admission (includes park admission) 50/30zł, kids 7 16 1zł, kids under 7 free; Thu free. U

Potocki Mausoleum

An extraordinary piece of funerary art, befitting two of Poland’s most powerful, wealthy and influential families, this tomb in Wilanów Park was dedicated to Stanisław Kostka Potocki and his wife Aleksandra (nee Lubomirska) Potocka by their son Aleksander. Designed in 1834 by Henryk Marconi and built between 1834-1836 by Jakub Tatarkiewicz and Konstanty Hegl, the mausoleum is made entirely of sandstone. Consisting of a Neo-Gothic canopy with lions holding shields bearing the crests of the Potocki and Lubomirski families in each corner, on the sarcophagus itself are the figures of the deceased, and around the sides symbols of their virtues and interests are displayed.QO‑2, Wilanów Park.

St. Anne’s Church

A church has stood on this site since the 14th century, when the wooden church of St. Leonard was built here, followed by a wooden Gothic version in the 16th century that stood throughout Sobieski’s day. In 1772 the new brick Church of St. Anne was founded by Prince August Adam Czartoryski based on a design by Jan Kotelnicki. From 1857-1870, Aleksandra’s son August and his wife extended the church based on a Neo-Renaissance design by Henri Marconi, including adding the marvellous dome.

In the surrounding gardens you will find terracotta shrines marking the Stations of the Cross, while the crypt houses the tombs of the Potocki family. The church suffered damage during both world wars and was used as an internment camp by the Nazis, who looted and damaged it. The bells dating from 1723 and 1777 survived thanks to the bravery of the local people who hid them; today they are housed in the newly built Third Millennium Tower. Q O‑2, ul. St. Kostki Potockiego 18, tel. (+48) 22 842 18 01, www.parafiawilanow.pl. Open 08:00 17:00; Fri, Sat 08:00 12:00; Sun 14:00 18:00.

Wilanów Lake & Island

There’s also a natural lake found behind the Palace. Not only is the lake is open, but at this time ofc year (and throughout the summer) you can actually rent a boat to take out on the water! Different options are available to visitors, including gondolas and rowboats. A trip here will reward you with a glimpse of Enrico Marconi’s strange, Gothic-inspired pump room, and an adventure to the island at the centre of the lake reveals a monument to the Polish soldier, Captain Ksawery Burski, who served in the army of the Duchy of Warsaw and gave his life at Wilanów fighting the Austrians at the Battle of Raszyn in 1809.QP‑3, ul. S.K. Potockiego 10/16. Hours same as gardens.

Klimczaka

Potocki Mausoleum

Photo by Chichebombon

Praga: Warsaw’s Alternative District

TARGOWA

WYB.SZCZECIŃSKIE

‘Gritty’ and ‘boho’ are just two of the terms tossed around to describe Praga, Warsaw’s east riverside district

Once disregarded due to its criminal underclass and imposing tower blocks, today an urban revival makes Praga worth visiting – especially for those looking to get off the tourist trail and see more of the city’s artsy side. The current standard-bearer for cool, folks here prefer their fun improvised and their bars dark. Filled with murals and hip hangouts, you can easily spend a day checking out the vibes of this alternative district across from the Old Town.

Getting to Praga

The easiest way to get to Praga is to take the M2 Metro to ‘Dworzec Wileński’ (eastbound to ‘Trocka’), and you’ll be in the heart of the district. From Warszawa Centralna the 160 bus will take you across the river to the ‘Park Praski’ stop. If you’re in the Old Town simply walk down the steps near the Royal Castle to Al. Solidarności and the ‘Stare Miasto’ stop, taking trams 4, 13, 20, 23 and 26 to ‘Park Praski.’

1 Praga Museum of Warsaw

Located in the oldest surviving residential buildings on Warsaw’s right bank, this modern museum boasts interactive exhibits that tell the story of Praga: its people, history, industry, bazaars and more. The cellars include the Residents’ Stories Archive and two pre-war Jewish prayer rooms with original wall paintings, and there’s even an observation terrace. This is not one of the most well-known museums in Warsaw, but is certainly one of the most interesting. Well worth a visit.

Visiting time: 1.5-2hrs.QJ‑3, ul. Targowa 50/52, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 518 34 30, www.muzeumpragi.pl. Open 09:00 17:00; Thu 11:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/15zł, permanent exhibit only 15/10zł, temporary exhibits 10/8zł; Thu free. U

2 ul. Ząbkowska

Nowhere is Praga’s revival better illustrated and its artistic vibe more felt than on Ząbkowska. Originally lined with timber frame houses, a fire in 1868 led to their replacement with tall tenements, all but one surviving WWII. Post-war neglect hit the street so hard that wholesale demolition was seriously considered, but somehow it endured and today many of the buildings have been restored and filled with lively galleries and bars. You’ll know you’ve arrived at Praga’s high street when you discover the explosion of murals and street art near ul. Targowa. Don't forget to take photos!QJ‑3, ul. Ząbkowska, MDworzec Wileński.

Eat & Drink

Locals will tell you that the best part of Praga isn’t the sightseeing, but the nightlife. The area’s main attraction is a vodka museum after all. You’ll find plenty of restaurants, cafes and bars in and around Centrum Praskie Koneser, along ul. Ząbkowska and ul. Okrzei. Here are some of the best hangouts in Praga:

3/4 Koneser Bar: Head straight to this bar hidden on the 3rd floor of the Polish Vodka Museum to try their delicious alcohol infusions and cocktails, and enjoy beautiful views.Qp.106

Setki Powodów: There are 100 reasons why you should swing by, but one of the main ones is its tantalising food menu (international cuisine) and a kicking live music roster!Qp.96

La Playa: This bustling outdoor concert and party venue has tons of Caribbean flair. This spot has regular salsa dancing and live Latin music during the night, as well as lounging during the day and lots of great cocktails and food. Qp.107.

3 Centrum Praskie Koneser

Once the Koneser Vodka Factory (1897-2007), this large industrial site lay mostly derelict before getting a major revamp in recent years and becoming Centrum Praskie Koneser. Interesting from an architecture and urban renewal standpoint, the complex includes the Polish Vodka Museum, the Museum of Fantastic Art, art galleries and dozens of restaurants, cafes, bars and shops! In the summer, this is the place to spend a day wandering outside, checking out the gorgeous architecture. QK‑2, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, www.koneser.eu T­U­E­6­­­­

4 Polish Vodka Museum

Set inside a former vodka factory, this multimedia museum is visited with a live tour guide or audio guide. The experience takes you from the origins of vodka to modern production, showing you plenty of paraphernalia and treating you to a tasting of this strong spirit. This is a must for anyone interested in the history of Poland's national drink (and for anyone who wants to try a sip). Entries are timed so book in advance Visiting time: 1.5hrs.QK‑2, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 50, www.muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl Open 12:00 20:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 21:00; closed Mon. 70zł.

Thrifting Culture

Praga is known for many things but locals know that one of its best attributes is its thrifting culture. The neighborhood is a hotbed of thrift stores, charity shops, and second-hand stores. Here’s our suggested starting route. Get off at the Kijowska tram stop, begin on the south end of Ul. Targowa and work your way north!

Jeila Ciucholand:  With two stories and tons of men’s and women’s clothing, this is the perfect starting point. Find staple shirts, skirts, etc for around 10-20 Zł. Plus, some cool home items upstairs!QK-4, ul. Targowa 20B.

Z 2 Ręki:  Though this mostly has women's clothes it's well worth it: items are chic, modern and totally discredit the stereotype of thrifted clothing as "frumpy." Plus, thrift store prices make this spot a mustQJ-4, Targowa 59.

Kopalnia: There’s more to visit on Targowa, but let’s jump off for a bit and go to Kopalnia - this store is clothing, but also furniture, books, art, ceramics and so much more. It’s a little more expensive but so well-curated and the items are so nice that a visit is a must (say hi to the owner’s pet turtle while you’re there!).QK-2, ul. Białostocka 9.

5 Warsaw Zoo

Opened in 1928, Warsaw Zoo covers an area of 40 hectares and attracts some 500,000 visitors each year. In total there are 13,000 animals here, across 500 species. Conditions have improved dramatically in recent years, though a visit here will do little to change any opinions you have on locking animals in cages. It was bombed at the beginning of the conflict and by 1945 all the animals had either been killed, deported to the Third Reich, eaten by locals or escaped into the wild. Zoo director, Jan Żabiński, became something of a hero; wounded during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, he helped save countless lives by sheltering Jewish orphans inside the grounds of the zoo. A truly good experience - from both a historic and a sightseeing perspective.QH‑3, ul. Ratuszowa 1/3, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 619 40 41, www.zoo.waw.pl. Open 09:00 18:00; Sat, Sun 9:00 19:00. Admission 35/25 zł.

6 Saska Kępa Beach

A popular beach with both football and volleyball courts, beach chairs and more in the summer. But this spot is not summer-only. In fact, meander down

here in February or March to find some great views of the center of the city, or peel off onto one of the paths that branches out from this beach for a nice long walk along the riverside. This is a lovely spot to explore, ride your bike and be amongst nature.QL‑8, ul. Kryniczna. MStadion Narodowy.

7 Saska Kępa - Ul. Francuska

One of the most desirable districts of Warsaw; with property prices staunchly high, the neighbourhood is home to the nouveau riche, the intelligentsia and much of the capital’s art community. Now in the shadow of the National Stadium, the sporting complex plays a major role in bringing visitors to the focal point of the area: ul. Francuska, which hosts trendy bars, cafes, restaurants and mix of boutique and old-school shops - Saska Kępa is as close as Warsaw gets to the ‘Little Village’ areas of London or Paris or Greenwich Village in NYC. As such, it’s a great place to wander around, people watch, take in cafe culture on Francuska, or marvel at the architecture, including majestic 19th century manor houses, superb examples of 1920s and ‘30s modernism, and moreQL‑6/7/8, ul. Francuska, MDworzec Wileński.

8 Skaryszewski Park

Skaryszewski Park is one of the most beautiful in Warsaw - you’ll find a pleasant 55 hectare site filled with wide alleys originally designed for horse-drawn carriages, man-made hills, waterfalls, lakes and landscaped flowerbeds. It’s perfectly acceptable to sprawl out on the grass wherever you like here and have a picnic in the sun. Or, in the winter months, stroll with a coffee or hot chocolate in hand and watch the birds at the pond. This place is always full of activity and relaxation -- the perfect park for new visitors to Warsaw!QL‑5/6, Al. Zieleniecka, MStadion Narodowy.

9 PGE National Stadium

Opened January, 2012, PGE Narodowy can hold 58,000 fans. The construction was built using hundreds of 45m pillars driven into the ground to stabilise the 25m of war rubble the stadium sits atop Priced at 1.2 billion PLN, history buffs will note the Socialist era ‘Relay’ statue at the entrance has been preserved in a nod to the site’s heritage – it was here that Stadion Dziesięciolecia (10th Anniversary Stadium) stood, built in the 1950s to mark the anniversary of the end of WWII. Today, this is an exceptional place to watch football or mega-concerts. All tour info on their website. Most tours range 33-43zł Q K‑6, Al. Księcia J. Poniatowskiego 1, M Stadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 22 295 95 95, www.pgenarodowy.pl

Art, History & Culture

Warsaw’s combination of these three is what makes it so exciting. Whether you’re an art lover, amateur historian, or tracing your roots, Warsaw’s heady brew of imperial grandeur, prewar glamour, 20th century tragedy, socialist austerity and present-day dynamism makes it unique in Europe and offers much to the visitor. Use this chapter of the guide to discover the capital’s art spaces and current exhibitions, find out about museums ranging from niche to national, and learn about sites related to some of the most important events in Warsaw’s modern history.

A nostalgic museum with dolls from around the world and toys from the 20th century, this place delights and fascinates.

Warsaw’s Best Museums & Art Spaces

Warsaw is the centre of Poland’s contemporary art scene and home to countless pieces of priceless art. While Kraków’s collections skew more historical, Warsaw boasts a great variety of exhibits showcasing younger artists as well as the nation’s masters. When it comes to art tourism, temporary exhibits are often as or more important than permanent collections, so check the current exhibitions on p.70.

1 Fryderyk Chopin Museum

Located in a beautifully-restored palace, this museum uses incredible interactive multimedia displays to illustrate the life of Poland’s most famous composer, without any details missing! QSee p.54

2 Museum of Modern Art

An incredible, sleek modern museum that's host to some of the best modern art from Poland around the world. It's our version of the MoMA in Warsaw!QSee p.74.

3 melt museum

A spectacle of light, color, and sound, this museum is a must-visit that uses modern technology to take visitors on a journey that awakens the senses. QSee p.73.

Murals & Street Art

What about art in public spaces? Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with Polish print advertising and poster design known internationally for their high artistic quality. With such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles would have a penchant for street art as well. And they do. In Warsaw both graffiti art and large-scale murals are a common sight, with the city and private businesses even inviting international artists to do installations. You’ll find a particularly high volume of murals on buildings in Praga, Wola and around the City Centre, where the urban landscape is changing most rapidly. Although it’s a dynamic situation, as many murals are installed on buildings that later become designated for demolition, at WIYP we keep a close eye on murals and urban art, marking major works on all of our maps; just look for the spray can icon . Not only that, but we’ve meticulously put it all online with exact GPS coordinates, so that your smartphone can do the work of leading you directly to Warsaw’s alternative artistic visions.

4 Museum of Warsaw

The history of Warsaw is fantastically told in this revamped museum based in eleven historic tenement houses. An Old Town must-see for everyone.QSee p.45

5 POLIN

One thousand years of Polish Jewish history is chronicled in this incredibly impressive, popular museum. One of the top spots in the city.QSee p.79.

6 Museum of Dollhouses, Games and Toys

With tons of dolls and toys from around the world and the last century, this museum delights and fascinates -- all with a healthy dose of nostalgia and whimsy.QSee p.73.

The Warsaw Museum has tons of excellent art depicting Warsaw, monuments, famous figures and more.

Temporary Exhibits

It’s not uncommon for some temporary exhibits to be major events, even overshadowing the permanent collections of local museums. Of the literal hundreds of art events across Warsaw, here are a few picks for the coming months. For more, as well as other events in the capital, head to our website.

Until 15.09 » 1945. Not the End, Not the Beginning

On the 80th anniversary of World War II, the POLIN Museum is looking at what happened after the war -- how did families devastated by horror and destruction try to rebuild? Deprived of nearly everything—their nearest and dearest, their community and their home—they faced a dramatic choice: to stay or to leave. This exhibit will trace the dilemmas and life paths of Polish Jews through the lives of select people via their personal biographies. The exhibition will also examine the fate of those who chose to leave Poland, as many did after the war. This is worth a visit for many reasons, but primarily because it shines a light on the aftermath of such a destructive period.QD‑4, POLIN Museum, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, 30/25zł, www.polin.pl. Closed Tue.

Until 31.12 » Artificial Dreams

The highly popular melt museum has introduced a new permanent exhibit that highlights the connection between art and technology, specifically AI. The creators of the exhibition call it a “technoutopia meets cyberpunk vision of the future.” The exhibit, Artificial Dreams takes visitors to unknown realms of the relationship between humans and artificial intelligence through an interactive, highly immersive experience that blends art, light, color, technology and sound to awaken your senses.QG‑7, melt museum, Plac Powstańców 2A, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 534 125 556, 39 59zł, www.meltmuseum. com/en/exhibitions/.

Until 31.12 » Kleks. Magic of the Cinema

Get an in-depth, inside look at the secrets behind film production with this exhibit at the Koneser center. Learn about Mr. Kleks’ Academy, directed by Maciej

Kawulsk with original costumes, authentic set design and more, all on nearly 1,000 m2 of interactive space. Here you can learn about the secrets of special effects and see how screenwriters and directors’ work looks like from the other side of the lens. For two hours, this tour of film production is enlightening for everyone - from children as young as 5 to adults. At the very end of the tour, you will meet the animatronic Professor Kleks and take part in a concept art workshop.QK‑2, Centrum Praskie Koneser, Plac Konesera 8, MDworzec Wileński, 75/69zł, www.kleksmagiakina.pl/warszawa/home waw.

Until 31.12 » Testimonies from the Warsaw Ghetto

A new poignant and important section of the Museum of Warsaw’s main exhibit, Testimonies from the Warsaw Ghetto, opened last year and looks at Warsaw through the period of German occupation in the 1940s. This exhibit presents viewers with daily life in the ghetto from various perspectives including soldiers and resistance members, women and men, amateurs and professionals. The exhibition includes objects recovered during archaeological digs, making it a truly fascinating journey through a painful time in the city’s history. Q25/18zł, www.muzeumwarszawy.pl.

Until 21.12 » The Summer That Changed Everything. Festival 1955.

This new exhibit at the Warsaw Museum tells the story of a pivotal 1955 festival called the World Festival of Youth and Students, which lasted from July 31 to August 15 of that year and attracted nearly 170 thousand people to Warsaw. Under the slogan For Peace and Friendship, the initial goal of the festival was to show the superiority of socialism over capitalism. However, it became a carnival of multiculturalism, anticipating political and social changes and, above all, a generational experience. In addition to telling the story of the event itself, this exhibition will outline the social and cultural background of the 1950s.QF‑4, Museum of Warsaw, Rynek Starego Miasta 28 42, tel. (+48) 22 277 44 02, 20/15zł, Thursday 1zł, www.muzeumwarszawy.pl Closed Mon.

Until 05.10 » Chopin Concerts in Łazienki Park

Enjoy the musical genius of Warsaw’s most famous son, Fryderyk Chopin, in the regal setting of Royal Łazienki Park. One of the city’s most charming and cherished summer traditions, these piano recitals have been organised beneath the park’s iconic Chopin monument (p.59) since 1959 and

are performed by award-winning pianists from around the world. The recitals are free and take place every Sunday at 12:00 and 16:00 until the end of September. Locals flock to the park for these occasions and you should too.QH‑11, Chopin Monument, Łazienki Park, Admission free, www.lazienki krolewskie.pl. Every Sunday.

Until 05.10 » The Impermanent: Four Takes on the Collection

This exhibit at the Modern Art Museum (p.74) presents a series of works from the 1950s to the present in a four-part installment. Many of the works express feelings and frustrations under the communist period, starting with the first installment, which is related to political engagement. The second focuses on consumerism and pop culture. The third is focused on "uncompromising imagination" inspired by the work of Roman Stańczak who focused on post-communist transformation in Poland. The final is titled Real Abstractions: The Autonomy of Art Against the Catastrophes of Modernity, and focuses on modernity and art's place in the modern world. A must-see for everyone.QF‑7/8, Museum of Modern Art, ul. Marszałkowska 103, tel. (+48) 22 596 40 10, 30/20zł, www. artmuseum.pl/en.pl. Open 12:00 20:00.

Museums

Warsaw boasts some superior museums, ranging from world-class attractions full of multimedia displays, to small institutions covering niche historical events. It’s more than we have space to cover here, but you’ll find them all listed and up-todate on our website. In this guide, some of the city’s most important museums are listed within the district tours of Sightseeing section, while the rest of the best are here. Descriptions focus on each museum’s permanent collection; for current temporary exhibits, see p.70

Asia & Pacific Museum

The Asia and Pacific Museum was founded in 1973. It was the first museum in Poland entirely dedicated to collecting art from outside Europe. The museum currently counts nearly 22,000 pieces from almost every country in Asia and Oceania. The collection includes, among other things, amazing weapons, rich fabrics, countless theatre puppets and masks, musical instruments, sculptures and paintings by contemporary artists. The museum also collects documents, photographs, films and recordings of ethnic music. The Asian library operating within the Museum has more than 14,000 volumes (open by prior arrangement). Visiting time: 1hr.QJ‑7, ul. Solec 24, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 621 94 70, www.muzeumazji.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 20/12zł. Thu free. English group tours cost 100zł (plus price of individual ticket). U

E.Wedel Chocolate Factory Museum

Become a chocolate aficionado at the E.Wedel Chocolate Factory Museum in Warsaw -- home to the most popular chocolatier in the country. Discover the secrets of chocolate production and delicacies through a thematic exhibition, interactive displays and workshops for adults and children alike. The main exhibition at the museum covers three levels and is divided into a few thematic spaces -- the Ghanaian Space, The Chocolatier’s space, the Confectioner’s space, and the Designer’s Space If you decide to visit the interactive exhibition, get ready for a whole host of exciting opportunities, including a chance to taste liquid chocolate and roasted cocoa beans, the ability to start the chocolate-making machine and touch the exhibits.

QL‑4, aleja Emila Wedla 5, MStadion Narodowy, www.fabrykaczekolady.pl. Open 10:00 20:00. 70/55zł.

A replica of the E. Wedel Chocolate Factory shows the production behind the tasty Polish Chocolate.

Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum

Born in Warsaw in 1867, local lass Maria Skłodowska would become better known to the world as Madame Marie Curie. Located in the renovated building she was born in, this charming museum pays homage to the life and work of the two-time Nobel Prize-winning physicist and chemist, whose many accomplishments include the discovery of the chemical element polonium (named after the country of her birth). Comprising five rooms, visitors will learn about her family and early life, see a recreation of her Parisian laboratory, plus many personal effects, including her private letters and scientific instruments. Of particular interest is an elephant, gifted by US President Herbert Hoover, which Skłodowska-Curie received during her 1929 visit to the White House - the purpose of which was to secure $50,000 for the purchase of a gram of radium for the fledgling Radium Institute in Warsaw. Visiting time: 1hr.QF‑3, ul. Freta 16, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 80 92, www.mmsc.waw.pl.

Open 12:00 18:00; Sun, Sat 11:00 18:00; closed Mon. Admission 15/10zł, Tue free. U

melt museum

Melt museum offers a fully sensory experience involving lights, color, interactive exhibits, robot dogs, and so so so much more! The museum takes an audiovisual approach to creativity, using a blend of art and ultramodern technology to offer vibrant imagery and sounds that are meant to awaken all of your senses. The museum hosts popular temporary exhibitions and asks that you book your tickets in advance online (it’s a very popular experience). Once you do, you’ll step inside a mind-bending world of light, color, touch and sound that really highlights what technology can do and how it can affect our perception of our world. Bring your phone because the photos you’ll take will be some of your best! Prices depend on the day of the week, so check out the website for details, but most prices range from 39zł to 56zł.Visiting time: 45-60mins. QG‑7, Plac Powstańców 2A, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 534 125 556, www.meltmuseum.com. Open 12:00 20:30; Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00.

Museum of Dollhouses, Games and Toys

A small, charming museum fittingly located right in Warsaw’s Old Town. Showcasing over 150 highlydetailed historical dollhouses, plus various other minature settings, the museum has four permanent exhibitions on display at its headquarters at 15 Podwale Street; “In the World of Old Dolls’ Houses,” “Sacred Toys,” “Dolls of the World,” and “Games and Polish Toys of the 20th Century.”

A checkroom and restroom are available on site, the main exhibition is adapted to be visited by wheelchair users. Visiting time: 45-60mins.QF‑4, ul. Podwale 15, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 797 72 30 29, www.muzeumdomkow.pl. Open 09:00 19:00. Tickets 42/30zł; kids under 1m tall, free. U

Museum of Fantastic Art

The world of Polish fantasy/surrealist art is both as mesmerising as it is confronting, and its unique style and construct of emotions have become recognised internationally. Residing within the grounds of Plac Koneser in Warsaw’s Praga district, the Museum of Fantastic Art has regularly changing exhibitions which have included the works of such popular artists as Zdzisław Beksiński, Jerzy Duda-Gracz, and Wiesław Wałkuski. While that would otherwise be sufficient content for such a gallery, this unique art space celebrates the successive generation of Polish fantastic artists. Most of the works of art on display have never been presented to the public before, which is yet another reason why this exhibition a mustvisit for art lovers in Warsaw! Current and future exhibitions are announced on the museum’s website. Q K‑3, ul. Ząbkowska 31 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), M Dworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 798 82 27 65, www.muzeumsztukifantastycznej.pl . Open 11:00 19:00. Admission 40/30zł. U

Museum of Life under Communism

If Warsaw’s communist history isn’t vivid enough for you on a walk around the capital, immerse yourself in PRL (Polish People’s Republic) vibes at this private museum. Showing what everyday life was like for locals during the years of Poland’s communist rule, the nostalgic exhibits include a recreation of a typical PRL-era apartment, plus plenty of photos, artefacts and relics that demonstrate the difficulty and absurdity of those times. Bittersweet for older Poles and eye-opening for foreigners. Visiting time: 1hr.QG‑10, ul. Piękna 28/34 (corner of Plac Konstytucji and ul. Piękna), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 511 04 48 08, www.mzprl.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; Fri 12:00 20:00. Admission 30/20zł. Audioguides free (after getting an app on https://mzprl.pl/audioguide free of charge/?lang=en ) in EN, FR, IT & ESP.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw

Inside the boxy white building, you’ll find twisting, geometric stairs (reminiscent of Escher pieces) and large, white gallery spaces. Over the years, this museum will be home to a cinema, workshops and talks, and so, so much more. But what is there now is worth checking out as soon as you can. In one room, find a large fiber work that stretches floor to ceiling by internationally renowned artist Magdalena Abakanowicz. In another, a series of colorful figures lay on the floor - a work by artist Mariela Scafati

Invisible Exhibition

A unique experience where seeing impaired guides lead you into their sightless world. On the tour you’ll understand the challenges blind people face daily as you try to write with a Braille typewriter, use kitchen gadgets designed for the sightless, and solve simple puzzles while blindfolded. Next, enter a series of pitch-black rooms that force you to rely on your other senses. You’ll feel the contours of a sculpture to discern what kind of art it is, listen for cars before crossing the street, and the guide will even serve you a drink in the completely dark bar (bring some cash). Truly a fascinating experience. To visit, book online in advance. Tours in English can be arranged, but you must first email them via info@niewidzialna.pl with ‘TOUR IN ENGLISH’ as the subject line. Visiting time: 1hr.

QC‑9, Al. Jerozolimskie 123A (Atlas Tower), MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.niewidzialna.pl.

Open 10:00 20:00. Admission 45/40zł; Sat, Sun 50/45zł. N

about women’s protests for reproductive rights around the world. Other rooms hold massive modern art pieces involving materials like tent tarp, glass, and iron. Several rooms also display works from student artists, while the lobby hosts a robust exhibit about different art museums -- and the inspiration behind their designs -- around the world. Taking up four storeys and 20,000 m2 (including over 4,000 m2 of gallery area), the museum was designed by the New York City-based architecture studio Thomas Phifer and features exhibition spaces, educational areas for lectures and workshops, conservation and restoration workshops, a cinema, an auditorium, a café, and a museum shop. Visiting time: 90minQF‑7/8, ul. Marszałkowska 103, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 596 40 10, www.artmuseum.pl/en. Open 12:00 20:00; closed Mon. 30/20zł.

National Ethnographic Museum

Tragically overlooked by most visitors to Warsaw, this joy of a museum showcases all that’s best about Poland’s cultural heritage - colourful folk costumes, customs and traditions, tools and instruments, outsider art, handicrafts and more - all of it beautifully presented in a superb historical building. Interestingly, there’s also a ‘Korean Gallery’ with a traditional Korean ‘hanok’. One of the city’s most active cultural institutions, they host many events and worskhops, and you can expect multiple temporary exhibits at a time. Visiting time: 2-3hrs. Q F‑6, ul. Kredytowa 1, M Nowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 827 76 41, www.ethnomuseum.pl . Open 10:00 18:00; Sat, Sun 11:00 18:00; closed Mon. Tickets 19/10zł, Thu free (Including the Museum for Children). U

Neon Museum

Yet another old industrial space turned cultural hub is Soho Factory, the biggest draw of which is no doubt the illuminating (non-pun intended) Neon Museum. The passionate curators of this private museum have collected hundreds of Communist-era neon signs, saving them from oblivion in the process. One of Warsaw’s most photogenic places and well-worth a visit for anyone interested in Poland's communist history and/or neon signs. Here, you don't just admire the beautiful (and photo-worthy) signs, you actually get a really deep dive into Polish history specifically during the second half of the 20th Century. Visiting time: 30mins.QM‑4, ul. Mińska 25, Soho Factory, Building 55, MStadion Narodowy, tel. (+48) 665 71 16 35, www.neonmuzeum.org.

Open 10:00 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 19:00; closed Tue. Admission 18/15zł, kids under 6 admission free. U­6

Polish History Museum

Explore the history of Poland in this sleek, 7,300-square-meter museum that covers 1,000 years of Polish history through artefacts, movies, performances, guided tours and more!

There are plenty of history museums throughout Warsaw, of course, but if you're coming to the capital city and wondering where the full, extensive picture of Poland's past is located, well then you've found it! This museum starts with an overview of the Jagiellonian Dynasties in the 14th and 15th centuries before moving on to the Polish Commonwealth in the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. The partition of Poland, the reunification, the period of WWII and the decades of communism that followed (it's quite the history!) Qul. Gwardii 1, tel. (+48) 691 231 681, www.muzhp.pl/en. Open 10:00 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 19:00; closed Mon, Tue. 20/10zł, children under 7 free.

Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art

Completed in a Baroque style in 1730, Ujazdowski was gutted by fire during WWII and torn down by communist authorities, who built a military theatre on the site. Common sense prevailed and the 1970s saw the castle rebuilt to its original design. Today several large exhibition halls showcase a rotating collection of the very best contemporary art; find a wild mix of the good, the bad and the ugly, by leading Polish and international artists. The castle also houses a very good bookshop, a fantastic cinema (U-Jazdowski Kino) and a top-notch restaurant/café, plus it’s surrounded by a lovely park. Visiting time: 2hrs.QI‑10, ul. Jazdów 2, MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 22 628 12 71, www.u jazdowski.pl. Open 11:00 19:00; Thu 11:00 20:00; closed Mon. Admission 25/15zł to all or two exhibits; 1 exhibit 15/10zł; project room 10zł; students up to 26, 1zł; Thu free. U

Vodka Museum

Poland's first-ever vodka museum is a captivating journey through the more than 500-year history of Poland's cherished national drink. With the world's largest collection of over 10,000 exhibits, visitors delve into vodka's origins, production processes, design, and even the traditional etiquette in which vodka is served and consumed. Independently founded by the passionate owners of the renowned restaurant Elixir by Dom Wódki (p.99), the museum seeks to shift the perception of Polish vodka from mere party indulgence to a finely-sipped and respected spirit. Showcasing intriguing artifacts like a Napoleonic soldier's vodka-filled canteen and 1920s/30s bottles that were sent to the U.S. during prohibition, the museum offers an enlightening

and enjoyable experience, and paying a little extra gets you in on a vodka tasting session. Tickets cost 30zł to see the permanent exhibition, whilst an included vodka tasting session is available from 35zł all the way up to 199zł for their VIP Package! Prior reservation is essential for this not-to-be-missed attraction!F‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 11 (entrance from ul. Canaletta), MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 888 600 805, www.muzeumwodki.pl. Open 13:00 19:00; Fri, Sat 13:00 20:00; Sun 13:00 19:00; closed Mon. Last entrance 60 minutes before closing. Admission 30zł. X

Warsaw National Museum

Located inside a huge and decidedly bizarre interwar building, this is Warsaw’s most comprehensive art museum, leading you from the ancient world through the middle ages up to the 19th century. Along the way you’ll see the some of the country’s most priceless works, including 15th century Dutch masters and Botticelli, plus Polish masters like Chełmoński, Matejko and Wyspiański. There’s also the Gallery of Polish Design and the Faras Gallery. Plus, incredible temporary exhibits that are changing all the time -- well-worth a look on their website to see if anything really speaks to you. Even if it doesn't, don't miss their first floor with all of its ancient Greek and Roman and Egyptian artifacts. This isn't just a place for art lovers, it's a place for anyone who loves history. Visiting time: 3hrs.QH‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 621 10 31, www.mnw.art.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; Fri 10:00 20:00; closed Mon. Admission 30/15zł for permanent exhibits; kids and students up to 26; 1zł; Tue free. U

Zachęta National Gallery of Art Unmissable. This is one of the leading art galleries in Poland, with a focus on the contemporary. Located in a beautiful Renaissance-style palace in the centre of Warsaw, just across from the Saxon Garden, the setting itself is worth a visit. The name of the gallery derives from the Polish word for encouragement and refers to the group that created it in 1860: The Society for the Encouragement of Fine Arts (Towarzystwo Zachęty Sztuk Pięknych). What makes Zachęta more of a gallery is that, while they have their own collection, there is no core permenant exhibition on display, but rather top-notch temporary exhibits showcasing the best in Polish and international contemporary art. As a result you get leading-edge art in an old European environment. Recommended. Visiting time 60-90mins.QF‑6, Pl. Małachowskiego 3, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 556 96 00, www.zacheta.art.pl. Open 12:00 20:00; closed Mon. last entry 19:30. Admission 30/20zł, family ticket 40zł, students 5zł. Thu free. U­6

Jewish Warsaw

When Nazi Germany invaded Poland in September 1939, Warsaw’s thriving Jewish population numbered approximately 350,000 - only New York City could boast a larger community.

Although anti-Semitism was by no means rare, Poland had been seen as a relative safe haven, and it attracted Jewish settlers forced into flight by more discriminatory regimes elsewhere. By the inter-war years, the Jewish population had made significant contributions to the social, political and cultural fabric of Poland.

As we know, Nazi occupation meant the complete dehumanisation and systematic destruction of Poland’s Jews, who were first forced into ghettos, where they faced violence, starvation and disease, and then deported to Nazi death camps where they were executed. The Warsaw Ghetto was the largest of WWII and occupied much of the City Centre, as you can see by its outline on the maps in this guide. At its height it imprisoned 460,000 Jews in an area of 3.4km2. After more than 254,000 Varsovian Jews were sent to their deaths at Treblinka in the summer of 1942, those remaining began building bunkers and smuggling weapons into the Ghetto in preparation for what would be the war’s largest act of Jewish resistance. Beginning on April 19, 1943, Jewish fighting units engaged German troops in guerilla

warfare within the walls of the Ghetto in a final, doomed act of bravery, defiance and protest against the world’s silence and inaction. When the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising ended 27 days later with the German command’s symbolic detonation of the Great Synagogue, 13,000 Jews had been killed, almost half of them perishing from the fire and smoke as the Nazis burned the Ghetto to the ground, building by building. Of the remaining 50,000 Jews, almost all of them were captured and perished at the Majdanek or Treblinka Nazi death camps.

Following WWII, much of Warsaw’s surviving Jewish population chose to emigrate to the U.S., the British mandate of Palestine (taking an active part in the creation of Israel) and elsewhere. Today Warsaw’s Jewish community is estimated at only about 2,000, but the city’s Jewish heritage remains an essential part of its identity, honoured today by innumerable monuments, memorials, museums and events, foremost among them the POLIN Museum, presenting the history of Polish Jews, and the annual Singer’s Warsaw Festival For a full list of Jewish tourism sites in Warsaw, visit our website

The spectacular wooden synagogue installation at POLIN Museum.

Worth Visiting

Anielewicz Bunker

Only 350m from POLIN, this small mound and memorial marks the site of the large bunker from which the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising was lead by the Jewish Combat Organisation (ŻOB). Located beneath the tenement at the wartime address of ul. Miła 18 (today Miła 2), the bunker was discovered and surrounded by the Nazis on May 8, 1943, with about 300 people hiding inside. Given the chance to surrender, half of the occupants - mostly civilians - gave themselves up, but the ŻOB insurrectionists chose to stay and fight. When the Nazis used gas to force them out, many of the ŻOB fighters chose suicide. 120 fighters died, including ŻOB commander Mordechai Anielewicz and his girlfriend Mira Fuchrer; only about 15 survived (many of whom perished later). The bodies of the dead were never exhumed and covered over with rubble from the surrounding tenements to make this mound after the war. Today two monuments can be found on/near the memorial with inscriptions commemorating their sacrifice.

QD‑3, ul. Miła 2, MDworzec Gdański.

Jewish Historical Institute

This amazing historical building that stood next to Warsaw’s Great Synagogue houses the Oneg Shabbat Archive, also known as the Ringelblum Archive - a secretly kept collection of documents, reports, essays, letters and other materials recording exactly what life was like in the Warsaw Ghetto, by those who were experiencing it, as it happened. As the Ghetto came under siege in 1943, the vast archive was secretly buried in three containers in three separate locations. Sadly, only the first two have been recovered, but they represent such extraordinary witness testimony that they were inscribed on UNESCO’s Memory of the World List

In the permanent exhibit you will see the original documents of the archive, the authentic containers and more. If you don’t have the time for POLIN, this is a great alternative. There are also temporary exhibits and an excellent bookshop. Visiting time: 90mins.

QE‑5, ul. Tłomackie 3/5, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 827 92 21, www.jhi.pl. Open 09:00 18:00; Fri 09:00 16:00; Sun 10:00 18:00; closed Sat. Last entrance 1h before closing. Admission 15/10zł. Mon free.

Okopowa Street Jewish Cemetery

A beautiful and poignant place to visit, this is Warsaw’s only active Jewish cemetery. Established in 1806 beyond the city trenches (‘okopy,’ where today’s Okopowa Street runs), the cemetery houses some 200,000 tombs and is the final resting place of many generations of Varsovian Jews, including Ludwik Zamenhof, inventor of the international language Esperanto.QB‑5, ul. Okopowa 49/51, tel. (+48) 22 838 26 22, www.cemetery.jewish.org.pl. Open 10:00 17:00; Fri 10:00 15:00; closed Sat. Admission 20zł. N

POLIN Museum

One of the best museums in Poland, POLIN explains a millennium of Polish Jewish history and relations through multimedia displays that earned the 2016 European Museum of the Year award. Located within the former Warsaw Ghetto, the modern building itself is a stunning structure of copper and glass. Inside, each gallery addresses a different era in the history of the Jewish people in PL. Learn about kings, inventors, thinkers and industrialists; about Jewish holidays, customs, religion and culture. While the Holocaust is described in detail, the permanent exhibit is primarily a celebration of 1,000 years of Jewish life in PL. It takes the better part of a day to explore. One combined ticket gets you into permanent and temporary exhibits. The museum is also home to a cafe and an excellent restaurant serving traditional Jewish cuisine (kosher dishes available). In the middle of a green public square, outside, visitors will also see several monuments, including a massive memorial the heroes of the Warsaw Ghetto. Plan ahead because the last entrance to the core exhibit is 2 hours before closing time. Visiting time: 3hrs.QD‑4, ul. Anielewicza 6, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 471 03 01, www.polin.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; Sat 10:00 20:00; closed Tue. Admission with audio guide 45/35zł, Thu free. T­U

Okopowa Jewish Cemetery (B-4) in the Wola district. Photo by Fotokon / Adobestock.

Warsaw Uprising

August 1, 1944 . Warsaw, subject to five years of fascist hegemony, rose up in rebellion in what would be the largest uprising in the German occupied territories.

With German morale in ribbons, a retreat from Warsaw in full swing, and the Red Army on the east bank of the Vistula, no time seemed better than the present. Following close contact with the Polish government-in-exile, and assurances of Allied aid, the Home Army (Poland’s wartime military movement a.k.a the ‘Armia Krajowa’ or AK) launched a military strike with the aim of liberating Warsaw and installing an independent government. What ensued was an epic 63-day struggle during which the Home Army faced the full wrath of Hitler’s forces.

17:00 - W-Hour

On orders from General Tadeusz ‘Bor’ Komorowski, 17:00 signalled W-Hour (‘Wybuch’ standing for outbreak), the time when some 40,000 members of the Home Army would simultaneously attack key German positions. Warsaw at the time was held by a garrison of 15,000 Germans, though any numerical supremacy the Poles had was offset by a lack of weaponry. Nonetheless the Germans were caught off guard, and the Poles captured a string of strategic targets, including the Old Town, Prudential Tower and the post office. The first day cost the lives of 2,000 Poles, yet for the first time since occupation the Polish flag fluttered once more over the capital.

Within days German reinforcements poured in, and on August 5th and 6th Nazi troops rampaged through the western Wola district, massacring over 40,000 men, women and children in what would become one of the most savage episodes of the Uprising. It was to prove a mixed first week for the Poles. In liberated areas, cultural life thrived. Better still, the first allied airdrops hinted at the support of the west. As it turned out, this was just papering over the cracks. The Germans, under the command of Erich von dem Bach, replied with heavy artillery, aerial attacks, armoured trains and tanks.

Fantastically ill-equipped, the one thing on the insurgents' side was an almost suicidal fanaticism and belief. Casualties were almost 20 times as high as those inflicted on the Germans, yet the Poles carried on the fight with stoic self-assurance. Airdrops were vital if the uprising was to succeed, though hopes were scuppered with Stalin’s refusal to allow Allied planes landing rights in Soviet-held airports. Instead the RAF set up a new route running from the Italian town of Brindisi to Warsaw, though casualty rates proved high with over 16% of aircraft lost, and the drops often inaccurate. All hopes rested on the Russians.

Polish Home Army soldiers in action, 1944.

After six weeks of inaction Red Army Marshal Rokossovsky finally gave the go-ahead for a Polish force under General Berling to cross the river. The operation was a debacle, with heavy casualties and no headway made. This single attempt at crossing the Wisla was enough; Warsaw was on its own. Already by this time the situation in Warsaw’s Old Town had become untenable, and a daring escape route was hatched through the sewers running under the city. The Germans were now free to focus on wiping out the remaining outposts of resistance, a task undertaken with glee. Abandoned by her allies the Poles were forced to capitulate, some 63 days after they had taken on the Reich.

The Aftermath

Having deposited their weaponry, 11,668 Polish soldiers marched into German captivity. The battle had cost up to 200,000 civilian lives, while military casualties between Germans and Poles would add a further 40,000 to the figure. Remaining inhabitants were exiled (though around 2,000 are believed to have seen the liberation by hiding in the ruins), and the Germans set about obliterating what was left of the city. ‘No stone can remain standing,’ warned Himmler, and what happened next can only be described as the methodical and calculated murder of a city. Buildings of importance to Polish culture were dynamited by teams of engineers, while less historic areas were simply burned to the ground. Modern studies estimate the cost of damage at around $54bn. In human terms Poland lost much more. With the Uprising died a golden generation, the very foundation a new post-war Poland could build on.

Warsaw Rising Museum

Opened in 2004, this remains one of Poland’s best museums. Packed with interactive, multimedia displays, period artefacts, photos, video footage and plenty of sounds effects, this museum is guaranteed to leave a mark on all visitors. Occupying a former tram power station, the 2,000m2 space is split over several levels, leading visitors through the chronological story of the 1944 Uprising - provided they don’t make any wrong turns; it’s a common mistake, and, as such, an audioguide (10zł) is handy. You can also get a guided tour in Polish (150zł) or in another language (200zł). Set aside several hours for the experience. Visitors start by learning about life under Nazi rule, with immersive displays including a clandestine radio station and covert printing press. The mezzanine level features a film detailing the first month of battle, including the opportunity to clamber through a mock sewer. There is also an exact replica of the B24 Allied planes used to make supply drops over the besieged city. The final sections are devoted to the creation of a Soviet puppet state, a hall of remembrance, and a particularly poignant display about the city’s destruction; take time to watch the black and white ‘before and after’ shots of important Warsaw landmarks being systematically obliterated by the Nazis.Near the exit check out the film City of Ruins, a silence-inducing 5min 3D aerial ‘film’ that uses old photos and new tech to recreate the desolation of ‘liberated’ Warsaw in March 1945. A viewing platform and ‘peace garden’ wrap up this experience. Expect 35zł or 40 zł for a group in Polish. Other language tours cost more. Book in advance on the web. Visiting time: 3hrs.QB‑7, ul. Grzybowska 79, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 539 79 05, www.1944.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; closed Tue. Admission 35/30zł (kids under 7 free), Mon free. Audioguides in 8 languages 13zł/person. U

The Old Town Market Square in ruins, 1945.

© City of Warsaw

Activities & Experiences

Hey, it doesn’t all have to be exhausting museums and knee-lifts as you explore Poland’s largest city. Check out the local activities below if you’re looking for fun alternatives to traditional sightseeing, ready to try something new, or simply want some rest and relaxation.

Smart Kids Planet

Smart Kids Planet is one of the best spots for kids and families in Poland! With 9 thematic zones and with over 50 engaging activities throughout, kids can play and learn as they do different tasks like building construction, shopping for food and fresh produce, learning about sports, and the magic of machinery and production lines, and much more! They'll develop cognitive function and cooperation skills all while having fun (plus there's a rest area for parents!)QD‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 727 77 08 80, www.smartkidsplanet.pl. Open 9:00 20:00.

Stacja Grawitacja

Gravity getting you down? Get the bounce back in your step at this huge trampoline park that also features 3D virtual reality gaming by Hologate, a ropes course, obstacle course, basketball and volleyball courts and even a climbing wall with routes for all ages and abilities. Put on anti-slip socks and join the fun. Children ages 3-6 must be accompanied by adults; older kids can be let loose while their parents hang out at the well-stocked cafe.

Qal. Bohaterów Września 12, tel. (+48) 726 13 06 66, www. stacjagrawitacja.pl. Open 10:00 22:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00.

Museum World of Illusion

A strict break from the stuffiness of the Old Town, this fun, colourful museum is exciting and educational for all ages. Enter the Matrix, a mirror room, a vortex, the room of shadows, and an upsidedown room - each and every one out-of-this world! Pefect for groups and pairs -- go discover the extent to which the mind can be tricked by the eye (don't forget to whip out your phone for pics!).QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 21, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 501 80 80 06, www.swiatiluzji.pl. Open 09:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00. Admission 42/32zł.

MK Bowling Entertainment Center

Found inside Galeria Młociny in the northern district of Bielany, this modern entertainment centre is just 2 mins away from the final stop of the M1. Once you’re there, you have the choice of 18 bowling lanes, 9 billiards tables, 4 shuffleboard tables, and 2 electronic dart boads, plus a kitchen that dishes out sandwiches, beer, snacks and more!Call in advance to reserve.Qul. Zgrupowania AK Kampinos 15 (Galeria Młociny, 2nd floor), MMłociny, tel. (+48) 600 80 05 56, www.mkbowling.pl/start warszawa. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri 12:00 24:00; Sat 10:00 24:00; Sun 10:00 22:00.

Museum of Life under Communism

If Warsaw’s communist history isn’t vivid enough for you on a walk around the capital, immerse yourself in PRL vibes at this museum. Showing what life was like under communism, the exhibits include a recreation of a PRL-era apartment, photos, artefacts and relics that demonstrate the difficulty and absurdity of those times. Visiting time: 1hr.QG‑10, ul. Piękna 28/34 (corner of Plac Konstytucji and ul. Piękna), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 511 04 48 08, www.mzprl. pl. Open 10:00 18:00; Fri 12:00 20:00. Admission 28/18zł. Audioguides 10zł, free on Thu in EN, FR, IT & ESP.

Warsaw Arcade Museum

This is one for nostalgia and fun-lovers alike! This interactive museum of video games is like a time machine back to the 80s and 90s, with tons of classic video games available to everyone, 120 vintage arcade machines and even the history of arcade games and their revolution over the years. Find arcade classics like Pac Man, Mario, Donkey Kong and much much more. Perfect for kids and adults!QAl. Jerozolimskie 200, tel. (+48) 573 999 815, www.warsawarcademuseum.com. Open 14:00 21:00; Fri 14:00 22:00; Sat 11:00 22:00; Sun 11:00 20:00. 60/40zł/1h.

Beauty & Spa

By this point, you’re well aware of how jam-packed Warsaw is. From little cafes to walking paths, to Old Town (p.40), park (p.58) and center city (p.30) sightseeing. But sometimes you just need to take a break from all the exploring and relax, and Warsaw is the place for that, too!

In fact, we think it’s better than many other cities in this department for a number of reasons. A big one is variety. Warsaw spas and beauty centers use different concepts to bring you a relaxing, fun experience that you cannot find anywhere else.

Beauty Hall

Elektrownia Powiśle’s Beauty Hall is an oasis of beauty and relaxation in the heart of Warsaw. The one-ofa-kind concept offers the comfort of holistic beauty in a lovely space. Take advantage of a wide range of face and body treatments in the Beauty Skin clinic, massages and holistic rituals in Balance & Beauty by Marta Bem, and barber and beauty services offered by experienced specialists at the Warsaw House of Lords salon. It is an ideal destination for both a quick treatment during the day and a longer regeneration after work or on the weekend. The Beauty Hall zone is found on level +2 in Elektrownia PowiśleQH/I‑6, ul. Dobra 42 (Elektrownia Powiśle), MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.beautyhall.pl Open 08:00 20:00; Sun 10:00 19:00.

Beer & Wine SPA

What do you get when you combine a love of fine wines and beers, a passion for relaxation, and a beautiful spot for health and well-being? Of course the answer is the Beer and Wine Spa!

Here you can enjoy high-quality spa treatments like goat milk baths, massages and more, along with some of the tastiest beverages you can find in the city. In fact, the two are so intertwined, that you can even get facial treatments from the beer and grape cosmetics line which give your skin deep rejuvination. Or book a whole beer/wine spa package and sip a glass of bubbly while you enjoy top-notch spa treatments.

This is really a true symbol of comfort and relaxation, with the concept based on the idea that good feelings and good well-being go hand-in-hand. Plus, you can enjoy 20% off all treatments during a current promotion! Perfect for couples, singles, friend groups and more.QG 7, plac Powstańców Warszawy 2a, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 662 380 090, www.beerandwinespa.pl. Open 12:00 20:00.

Enel Med has been creating red carpet-worthy smiles for 30 years!

Enel Med

With 30 years of top-tier dental care, Enel Med offers up a whole range of services, like dentistry, specialized treatment (like implantology, prosthetics, orthodontics, oral surgery, periodontology and more), and even cosmetic dentistry and oral hygiene. Plus, if you have a toothache or other oral emergency, you can contact EnelMed - Emergency Service. The team includes over 300 dentists and 150 assistants and hygienists, in clinics located all around Poland (seven in total!) If you’re looking to get some cosmetic or dentistry procedure done while you’re traveling around Poland, this is the place. There are 20 branches around Warsaw, and the hours differ, so make sure to check the website before you go. But generally, the hours are Mon-Fri, 8:00-20:00; Sat, 9:00-15:00; or Mon-Fri, 8:00-21:00; Sat, 8:00-14:00.Qul. Gilarska 86 C, MZacisze, tel. (+48) 660 307 007, www. enel.pl. Open 8:00 20:00; Sat 8:00 15:00; closed Sun.

Estell Clinic

This spot offers a multitude of different beauty options, from body shaping and dermatology, to even dental prosthetics. This is where you come for some top-notch beauty treatments. Some of their most popular offers are skin consultations, body shaping, a whole host of dentistry offerings, eye area treatments and more. Suffering from migranes? They can help. Tired of loose skin from weight loss? Here too. Wrinkles, scar removal, dry facial skin... The list goes on (and on and on). These are world-class services at unbeatable prices. If you want a little beautification amid your stay in Warsaw, this is undoubtedly the place for it. Two other locations at Okopowa 58/72 and ul. Burakowska 14, with earlier hours. QF‑5, ul. Bielańska 2. MRateusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 431 36 66, www.estell.pl. Open 9:00 21:00; Sat 9:00 18:00.

From haircuts to makeup, there's a plethora of offers at Beauty Hall Elektrownia Powiśle.

Kids & Families

While Warsaw has plenty of wonders, not every cultural site is going to be engaging for young visitors. The first step to having a successful family vacation is probably to just accept that what you and your kids want to do are not going to be one and the same. That said, there’s common ground to be found in some of Warsaw’s most popular attractions.

Wandering the Old Town (p.40) or Łazienki (p.58) will likely please everyone, as will a walk along the Vistula Boulevards (p.55) - a great outing with plenty of diversions, most obvious of which is the stimulating and educational Copernicus Science Centre (p.56) and Multimedia Fountain Park further north. You’ll also find playgrounds along the river, and in the high season you can take a ferry to the wild side of Wisła and enjoy one of the city’s wild beaches

Although it may sound more like punishment, kids really respond to the interactive exhibits of the highly modern Warsaw Rising Museum (p.80), which features areas designed specifically for young visitors. Some of Warsaw’s more niche museums like the National Ethnographic Museum, Museum of Dollhouses and Photoplasticon are also good choices for families. Of course, Warsaw has plenty of action-packed indoor attractions, too so don’t miss the rainy day recommendations on the previous pages.

E. Wedel Chocolate Factory Museum

This museum is a kid's dream come true! One of the most popular chocolatiers in the country, Wedel, has a large exhibit that lets you discover the secrets of chocolate production and delicacies through a thematic exhibition, interactive displays and workshops for adults and children alike. There are also classes that combine learning and fun for organized groups of children and teenagers. There are three levels in the museum, which teach kids about how chocolate is made -- from picking the beans to storing them -- as well as the techniques for making chocolate. Think Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory come to life!

And of course, what would a chocolate museum be without tastings? There's plenty of that, as well as a great opportunity for kids to design their own boxes for the popular Ptasie Mleczko Wedel chocolate confection!Qaleja Emila Wedla 5, MStadion Narodowy, www.fabrykaczekolady.pl. Open 10:00 20:00. 70/55zł.

In addition to bouncy floors, Stacja Grawitacja (p.82) also boasts the best 3D VR gaming experience in Poland!

Warsaw Photoplasticon

Hidden in a darkened pre-war tenement near the train station, a visit here really is a trip back in time. A popular form of entertainment in the pre-cinema era, a ‘photoplasticon’ is basically a 3D peep show (no, not the saucy kind) where visitors sit in front of a viewing station to see vivid photos as they slowly rotate by. Although photoplasticons were quickly made obsolete by moving pictures, this one, which has been located here since 1905, somehow stayed open, surviving the war and even serving as a meeting point for intellectuals during the communist era. Check online to see what’s loaded into the machine (does it matter?). Visiting time: 20mins. QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 51, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 629 60 78, www.fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl. Open 10:00 18:00; closed Tue. Admission 10/6zł; Thu free.

Smart Kids Planet

Young families visiting Warsaw need not worry about wholesome and constructive fun for the kids! Head along to Fabryka Norblina (p.33) and you will find Smart Kids Planet - the first edutainment centre in Poland, that is, a recreational format that bridges the gap between playrooms and science centres. Divided into 9 thematic zones and with over 50 engaging activities throughout, young minds can journey through many different worlds - building construction, food and fresh produce, sports, the magic of machinery and production lines, and right out into the cosmos with their very own designs coming to life before their eyes! Made for children aged from 0-10, this is certainly not a traditional ‘educational’ environment, and that is by no means a bad thing! For children aged 0-10 QD‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53 (Fabryka Norblina), MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 727 77 08 80, www.smartkidsplanet.pl. Open 09:00 20:00. U

Warsaw Arcade Museum

Open 14:00 21:00; Fri 14:00 22:00; Sat 11:00 22:00; Sun 11:00 20:00. 60/40zł/1h. THE

This is one for nostalgia and fun-lovers alike! This interactive museum of video games is like a time machine back to the 80s and 90s, with tons of classic video games available to everyone, 120 vintage arcade machines and even the history of arcade games and their evolution over the years. Find arcade classics like Pac Man, Mario, Donkey Kong and much much more. Perfect for a break from the regular tourist attractions, and great for a birthday party, corporate meeting or event, the Warsaw Arcade museum is a must-visit! QAl. Jerozolimskie 200, tel. (+48) 573 999 815, www.warsawarcademuseum.com.

Dining in Warsaw

Nowhere is Warsaw’s vibrancy and diversity more apparent than in its progressive culinary scene. What follows are some of the most noteworthy dining establishments in the capital, divided into basic categories with the type of cuisine listed under the venue name; for more options visit our website. In terms of tipping, 10% is standard (easy math). Smacznego!

Beef n’ Pepper’s new summer garden gives jaw-dropping views of the Palace of Culture – be in awe of both steak and scenery!

Amar Beirut

utensils Lebanese

Amar Beirut, an iconic Lebanese restaurant in the Norblin Factory, known for its incredible interior and even more incredible culinary offering, opened its doors in 2023. It was inspired, as the owners say, but a celebration of the joy of life and a fascination with good cuisine. Amar Beirut is the embodiment of Lebanese hospitality, with engaging décor and wonderful live music. The restaurant’s menu features hot, locally baked Lebanese breads, authentic falafel, traditional tabbouleh salad, hummus, grilled dishes and desserts that are an integral part of Lebanese culinary culture. Enjoy breakfast, lunch, and dinner, with live entertainment from Thursday to Saturday and a special oriental dance show on Saturday night. Plus, the restaurant bar, located on the rooftop terrace, is sure to amaze!

QC‑8, Żelazna 51/53, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 799 600 700, www.amarbeirut.pl

Open 12:00 24:00; Fri 12:00 2:00; Sat, Sun 08:00 02:00. €€€€. i B­6E

AïOLI Cantine Bar Cafe and Deli

utensils International

Dominated by two large circular bars - one around the kitchen hung with colanders and racks of prosciutto, the other an actual drink bar ringed with wine glasses, wooden furnishings dressed with fresh herbs do much to dispel the brick and concrete, while excellent service further elevates the atmosphere. The exciting, modern menu extends from Mediterranean tapas and seafood to pizza, burgers, pasta and salads, and the cocktails are highly popular with day drinkers on social media. Plus, it's famous for its homemade Aïoli sauce and focaccia, mezze and tapas. This place absolutely buzzes, aided by breakfast and lunch specials, affordable prices and a kitchen that stays open late for their urbanite clientele, who help this trendsetting spot blur the lines between bar, bistro and brunch spot. 2nd location at ul. Chmielna 26.

QF‑7 ul. Świętokrzyska 18, MŚwiętokrzyska

tel. (+48) 518 81 93 02, www.aioli.com.pl.

Open 09:00 24:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 01:00. €€€. ­B­6T­U

Breakfast & Brunch

For some the direction of the day depends on the ability to eat a good breakfast, so we’ve highlighted some of our favourite places in Warsaw that specialise in śniadania (the Polish word for breakfast). Whether you’re an early bird or a late riser, get a good first feed in the places listed here!

AïOLI Bread & Apertivo

With two beloved, and popular, spots in Warsaw, it's hard to miss AïOLI. And why would you want to? They have some of the best food in the city, with tons of offerings that range from steaks to burgers to pasta. This cozy restaurant, located right in the heart of Warsaw, is a must-visit on your travels. The breakfasts are a must here, with offerings like traditional English breakfasts, focaccia, eggs, a bacon sandwich, and array of excellent coffee options as well as great, fresh smoothies, iced tea and bubble tea! this is really the ultimate brunch place to bring your friends, family or just go by yourself. Fresh, fun breakfast awaits! If you come midday, try the three-course lunch deal and sample some amazing coffees from a local roastery.QF‑8, ul. Chmielna 26, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 575 737 760, www.aioli.com. pl/en. Open 09:00 24:00; Fri, Sat 09:00 01:00. €€€.

Amar Beirut

Amar Beirut, an iconic Lebanese restaurant in the Norblin Factory, is the perfect place to start your day. Breakfast is served on the weekends (08:0012:00) , and features freshly baked manakish, labneh, variety of eggs, cheese, za’atar, and warm oven-fresh bread—paired with tea, fresh juices, or aromatic Lebanese coffee. Amar Beirut is the embodiment of Lebanese hospitality, with engaging décor and wonderful live music. Stick around after breakfast for the main menu, including hot baked Lebanese breads, authentic falafel, traditional tabbouleh salad, hummus, grilled dishes and desserts that are an integral part of Lebanese culinary culture.QŻelazna 51/53, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 799 600 700, www.amarbeirut.pl. Open 12:00 24:00; Fri 12:00 02:00; Sat, Sun 08:00 02:00*. Breakfast is served only on the weekends (08:00 12:00). €€€.

Nar’s breakfast offering brings the sunny Mediterranean to Warsaw with light, fresh bites.

Nar Restaurant

Brighten up your weekend brunch plans with authentic, savory and sweet Mediterranean food straight from the delicious Nar Restaurant. The bold flavors really stand out here: light and flavorful mezze dishes with yogurt, fresh and fluffy bread and more. A popular dinner and lunch spot, Nar also shines at breakfast, held between 10:00 and 12:00 during the weekdays and 10:00-14:00 during weekends, with dishes unlike offerings anywhere else in the city. Dine on some Turkish poached eggs in a bed of savory yogurt with crispy sticks of phyllo dough, halloumi, jam and more. Or try some delicious eggs baked with savory sausage and an array of vegetables and cheeses on the side.QF‑9, ul. Żurawia 47/49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 451 012 922, www.narrestaurant.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 23:00. Breakfast is served 09:00 12:00; Sat&Sun 10:00 14:00. €€€.

Nova Wola

Located within the elegant Crowne Plaza Hotel, Nova Wola encourages a wholesome start to your day in Warsaw, with a fresh and organic breakfast selection as part of its impressive modern Polish menu offer (p.100). Served mainly for guests of the hotel, the breakfast will run you 110 zł. The breakfast menu includes favorites like omelettes with customizable add-ins, shakshouka, brioche with smoked salmon, avocado and fried egg, and oatmeal with coconut milk. Nova Wola also offers baked sweet potatoes with yogurt, berries, and granola, as well as hummus with roasted vegetables, avocado and egg.QC‑8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 377 38 01, www.novawola.com. Open 06:30 10:30; Sat, Sun 06:30 11:00. €€€€. T­U

Purr Purr

This all-day restaurant is also the ultimate cozy breakfast spot, thanks to a fluffy Cat Team and delectable food and drinks! Find a number of excellent, unique offerings here, like ruby matcha lattes that combine ruby chocolate with matcha and homemade cream cheese (or, for the purists, regular lattes and regular matcha). Warm teas like the beloved winter tea can also be found here, as can a number of excellent breakfast bites like fluffy Japanese pancakes and dango, a traditional Japanese sweet treat. Of course, don’t forget the biggest draw -- the furry kitties who will lounge and keep you company (and warm amid the cold outside)!.QD‑2, ul. Pokorna 2/U4, MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 573 538 888. Open 11:00 21:00; Mon 12:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00. €€. U­6­i

Stacja Caffe

Bounce your way on over to some tasty food as you enjoy one of Warsaw’s best activity parks! Located right in the oh-so-popular Stacja Grawitacja trampoline (and more) center is this charming cafe, which serves everything from mozzarella and pesto sandwiches, to egg breakfasts, gnocchi meals and an array of smoothies! It’s the perfect break after a fun day (and a workout!) jumping around the activity center, which includes a trampoline park, a climbing wall, a ropes course, and way more. Fuel up at the cafe and head back out for more fun!Qal. Bohaterów Września 12, tel. (+48) 726 13 06 66, www.stacjagrawitacja.pl/warszawa/bistro/menu stacja caffe/. Open 10:00 22:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00.

T­6­i

Syrena Irena

Polish food abounds in Warsaw -- you can get pierogi all over the place. But when it comes to really good, really modern Polish food, you have to know where to look and Syrena Irena is the place to start. By focusing on making really excellent handcrafted pierogi, the chefs of this iconic space have honed their craft to a science. On the menu find a variety of pierogi you won’t find elsewhere—sweet dumplings with plums in brown butter and sugar, and savory ones with duck and plum—and then customize that order with any number of toppings from caramalized onion to “mermaid sauce.” It’s named after the iconic Syrena (siren or mermaid) of Warsaw, and this spot has a ton of little modern touches, from the art to the neon signs to the high ceilings. This spot is not only delicious, it’s photo-worthy too!QG‑6, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6, MNowy Świat, tel. (+48) 535 851 991, www.syrenairena.pl. Open 09:00 20:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 22:00. €€. U­B­6

Nova Wola's breakfast menu is always impressive.

Casual dining

Banjaluka always serves up incredible Balkan food with mouthwatering flavor.

Sometimes you just need a casual and convenient place to relax, enjoy good food, vibes and hospitality. The following venues deliver in that regard. While our listed opening hours seem self-explanatory, be aware that some venues close their doors if business is slow, while others stay open after the kitchen has closed. In such cases, the hours we list are for the kitchen.

Banjaluka

utensils Balkan

Head here for monstrous portions of the best Balkan food in town. Choose from all kinds of amazing Balkan food like juicy, well-seasoned meats, stuffed peppers with cheese, and roastbeef u rakija sljivovici (aka filled with plum rakija). Among the offerings is the legendary 20-centimeter Gurmanska Pljeskavica - a large, traditionally Balkan beef patty. And don’t just come here for the food -- the experience itself is great, too! Especially because they have live music every evening, along with a colorful, magical outdoor garden. This is the spot to post up in the summer months.QF‑7, ul. Szkolna 2/4, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 22 828 10 60, www.banjaluka.pl. Open 16:00 00:00; Mon 16:00 23:00; Fri 16:00 01:00; Sat 12:00 01:00; Sun 12:00 22:00. €€€. T­E­6

Symbol & Price Key

utensils Category of Cuisine

C-1 Map Coordinate

E Live music

Beef n’ Pepper

utensils Steak

This place absolutely shines, serving as one of Warsaw's best steakhouse and bars. The quality of the cuts here is excellent and the fact that they use the finest local meats means the prices are surprisingly reasonable. In addition to a fine wine list, the slick bar has a brilliant selection of whiskies and bourbons, and there’s live music every Tuesday from 19:00. Plus, in addition to their regular summer garden, this year they have a second garden on ul. Nowogrodzka with a view of the Palace of Culture and Science. Don’t miss their new Sundays with the kids, where kids can participate in hands-on activities! QF‑9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 785 02 50 25, www.beefandpepper.pl. Open 12:00 24:00. €€€€. T­U­E­6

N Credit cards not accepted

M Metro o Year-round garden

T Child-friendly X Smoking room available

U Facilities for the disabled 6 Animal friendly

€ most mains under 35zł

€€ most mains 35–55zł

€€€ most mains 55–80zł

€€€€ most mains 80–120zł

€€€€€ most mains over 120zł

Bierhalle

utensils International

Inspired by the brewhouses of Bavaria, Bierhalle is an original concept that combines original beer produced on-site with mouthwatering cuisine brought to the table by talented and traditionallyfrocked waitstaff. A popular franchise all over Poland, guests will get to try several flavours of delicious ale (served in enormous steins), and see also see the brewing process in action. The menu offers a variety of dishes from Poland, from homemade dumplings to oven-baked pork knuckle, oven-baked salmon, chicken salads and much, much more. QC‑2, Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 601 67 79 62, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 20:00. €€€.

T­U­B

Bliski Wschód Vege Street Food & Cocktail

Bar

utensils Vegetarian & Vegan

This all-vegetarian restaurant packs a flavor punch with meals inspired by cuisines of Lebanon, Turkey, Israel, Tunisia and Egypt. And while you dine on a savory halloumi burger or a crispy bite of falafel, you can admire the gorgeous interior, with delightful design elements that add to the overall atmosphere of the Middle Eastern space. Plus, there are two levels and VIP rooms for smaller parties, so you can plan events or hold get-togethers here! If you like to have shisha, this is also the spot. A seasonal garden tops this place off as a must-visit.QF‑8, ul. Złota 11, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 668 01 69 79, www.bliskiwschodvege.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Mon 12:00 21:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 21:00. €€.

X­T­U­B­6

BursztyNova Restaurant utensils International

A new, one-of-a-kind restaurant has opened in Poland’s capital city, offering a delicious array of cheeses that will delight your senses, all highlighted in excellent dishes. BurztyNova Restaurant, tucked right into the heart of Warsaw’s bustling center city belongs to one of the largest dairies in Poland, which produces long-aged cheeses like Bursztyn, Szafir and Rubin. This restaurant aims to give you the full cheese experience, meaning they have excellent pairings of wine, preserved jams, delicate honeys, and bitter or sweet chocolate, all of which accentuate the flavors of these incredible cheeses. The menu goes on to include recipies that combine cheese in hot dishes, pastas, sauces, appetizers and more!QE‑6, ul. Królewska 16, MŚwiętokrzyska, tel. (+48) 519 310 110, www.bursztynovarestauracja.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. €€€. U­B­E­6

The last secrects of comunist cuisine... 1909

“Czerwony Wieprz” was recommended by The New York Times as the best Polish cuisine restaurant and included in a list of 10 reasons to visit Warsaw.

Czerwony Wieprz Restaurant 68 Żelazna Street, Warsaw Booking: +48 22 850 31 44

Ciao Napoli

utensils Italian

Located a short distance away from the Old Town Square (p.44), Ciao Napoli succeeds in bringing a little piece of Naples to the centre of Warsaw. Offering a selection of antipasti, salads, piadina, panuozzo and desserts, it's the Neapolitan pizzas, with their fantastic thin and crispy dough, which really distinguish this small family-run franchise. The friendly atmosphere and cosiness of the restaurant also makes an impact, despite its popularity and the fact that its at the heart of one of the capital's biggest tourist hotspots. That being said, you will leave satisfied, especially when you realise how reasonably priced the whole experience is! Their second location at ul. Piwna 40/42 (F-4) has weekday lunch specials from 12:00-16:00.QF‑4, ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 508 69 43 52, www.ciaonapoli.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. €€. T­B­6

Cucina Mia

utensils Italian

Taste a wide range of flavors like Amalfi lemons, Umbriaco cheese soaked in red wine, earthy black truffles, salty and savory ham, and fresh mussles and red prawns straight off a Sicilian fishing boat.

In short, the food here is the real Italian deal. Plus, the flavors are complemented by top-shelf wines and exquisite, rich desserts. And it’s all created by experienced chef Deniele Pampagnin, who boasts an impressive resume that includes restaurants in Mykonos, Ibiza and London, along with Michelinrecognized Chef Lorenzo Robustelli. QH‑9, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Grand Warsaw), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 450 61 00, www.cucinamia.pl. Open 08:00 24:00. €€€.

U­B­E

Czerwony Wieprz

utensils Polish

Workers of the world unite around a large choice of well-presented Socialist Bloc cuisine. Deriving its name from a former meeting place for members of the early communist movement, legend has it that even Lenin paid this place a visit in 1909. The interior is based on the style favoured by the 1950’s -1960’s party elite, and the walls are bedecked with memorabilia of the era. Somehow the owners have managed to carefully side swerve tackiness and the whole experience has a lovely, faded and nostalgic glam to it. Immensely popular with locals and tourists alike (including Bruce Willis, Lennox Lewis and the Real Madrid football squad), 2012 saw ‘The Hog’ voted one of the 25 best and most interesting restaurants in the world by the Spanish Trade Leaders’ Club. The restaurant closes at 23:00 daily, except for Sundays when it closes at 22:00..QC‑7, ul. Żelazna 68, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 22 850 31 44, www.czerwonywieprz.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 22:00. €€€. T­U­B

Daebak

utensils Asian

The ultimate place for grab-and-go, authentic Korean food that really lives up to its name (Daebak means “wow” in Korean!) This spot, located near the University of Warsaw Library serves up authentic Korean bento boxes -- essentially a tradtional packed lunch, separated into different parts. Each box contains rice, 4 banchan (side dishes), one main course and fruit for dessert. Plus, you get to customize your own, with a choice of four main courses (1 vegetarian), sides and more. Order off the self-service screen and come back in two days for whole-new offerings! Perfect for students on the go or anyone wanting to grab some lunch and enjoy a summer sitting by the river or at the library’s rooftop gardens. Need more? Don’t forget to check out their TikTok account for some great visuals! QH‑5, ul. Dobra 53, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, www.instagram.com/daebak.wawa. Open 12:00 21:00. B­6

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi

utensils Polish

Hearty soups, plump dumplings, potato pancakes and various cutlets - all prepared ‘as they should be’ and at very reasonable prices. You can’t go wrong with pierogi, but we’d personally recommend the pork chops or cabbage rolls stuffed with meat (known locally as gołąbki: go-womp-ki). The drinks on offer are quite funky (cold/hot options), and it’s all served up by friendly staff wearing folk attire. It may feel very kitsch inside, but the food hits the mark and the portions are immense. Additional locations at ul. Nowy Świat 43 (G-7), and deep in the Old Town at ul. Podwale 19 and ul. Piwna 14 (F-4).QG‑5, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 29, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 273 69 36, www.gosciniec.waw.pl. Open 11:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00 23:00. €€. T­B­6

Gospoda pod Zygmuntem utensils Polish

With locations on the happening Nowy Świat street and another near the Old Town Square, this veteran Polish restaurant is as simple and traditional as it gets. A good option for tourists, families and anyone looking for their first foray into Polish cuisine, the modestly-priced, bilingual menu includes photos of almost every dish. There is a lot to choice, from classics like pierogi, potato pancakes with goulash and mushroom soup served in a bread bowl, to old school staples that have dropped off most modern menus like tripe soup and chicken livers with fried onions and baked apples. Also at ul.Świętojańska

15QG‑7, ul. Nowy Świat 41, MNowy Świat

Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 22 428 39 43, www.gospoda. waw.pl. Open 11:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 11:00 23:00. €€.

T­B­6

MEATing Restaurant

utensils European

T This is where meat and seafood lovers meet (pun intended)! Located in the ever-beautiful Mokotów, MEATing offers up seasoned, juicy meat alongside fresh, light seafood in a gorgeous atmosphere. Their main passion is Polish beef, done expertly with modern touches and paired with carefully selected wines. Taste seared, delicious steaks or melt-in-yourmouth carpaccio. Of course surf and turf gets its due here, with light shrimp alongside tasty beef. Other options include shrimp in a white wine sauce with garlic and chili . . . the list goes on! A perfect spot for meeting with friends, a date night or more. This is one you shouldn't miss.QH‑13, ul. Puławska 16, MPole Mokotowskie, tel. (+48) 453 543 800, www.meating.rest/. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri 12:00 23:00; Sat 13:00 23:00; Sun 13:00 22:00. €€€. T­U­B­6

Casual | Dining

Namaste India

utensils Indian

What began as a modest Indian-owned grocery store almost two decades ago has developed into multiple full-service restaurants. This - the expanded original location - remains the consensus best Indian food in the capital, just ask anyone who lives here. The prices are set so low you can’t help but wonder what’s the catch - there isn’t one; we’ve tried the entire menu and it’s all delicious. Consider ringing ahead for takeaway because waiting times can be torture and ask about booking their private room for parties and meetings.QG‑8, ul. Nowogrodzka 15, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 357 09 39, www.namasteindia.pl. Open 11:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 22:00. €€. T

Nar Restaurant

utensils Mediterranean

Nar Restaurant brings authentic Mediterranean food to a little atmospheric restaurant in Warsaw and offers everything you could want, from breakfast to lunch and dinner! Light and flavorful mezze dishes with yogurt and marinated eggplant, juicy bites of grilled lamb and vegetables, perfectly seasoned slices of grilled beef. Plus, this isn’t just a dinner spot: lunches are served here from Monday through Friday between 12:00 and 16:00. Additionally, there are special events on Saturday nights from 19:30, when you can enjoy a special Raki menu alongside some live music which will transport you straight to Turkey. QF‑9, ul. Żurawia 47/49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 451 012 922, www.narrestaurant.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 23:00. €€€. B­6­i

PaTaThai Powiśle utensils Thai

At this popular Powiśle restaurant, each dish is a story that’s inspired by every corner of Thailand, from the mountains in the north, to busy city streets, to the idyllic beaches. And the flavors of these exquisite dishes will transport you to each place. Try some juicy duck or savory and flavorful curry. Seafood, tofu, chicken and more are all here and all bursting with authentic Thai flavors.Qul. Zajęcza 2b, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 574 118 104, www.patathai. pl/lokale/powisle/. Open 12:00 22:00; Thu 12:00 23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 01:00. 6

PierOgarnia

utensils Polish

Located right in the heart of Warsaw, these are authentic, handmade pierogi done really well. You’ll find all the classic flavors here, from cheese and potato, to mushroom and cabbage, to meat and of course, spinach. The thing that sets this place apart

is the flavor and the locally sourced ingredients. If you’re looking for good, authentic pierogi on your adventures around the city, this is the place to go. QF‑8, ul. Złota 11, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 668 01 69 80, www.instagram.com/pierogarniazlota11. Open 12:00–20:00. €€. T­B­6

PRIMITIVO Kuchnia i Wino

utensils Mediterranean

An original take on Mediterranean cuisine, with a focus on simplicity that lets the high quality ingredients and expert preparation shine. Plus, the biggest Primitivo wine collection means you can experience the top-shelf wine (with roots in Croatia and Italy) as you enjoy your meal. The dishes themselves as well as many ingredients come from the Mediterranean basin and other ingredients are locally sourced. Chefs focus on 3-ingredient dishes that allow them to highlight the expert preparation and quality food. The restaurant design itself is also a huge attraction. With muted, earthy tones and wood, stone, ceramic and glass elements in the design, Primitivo is reminiscent not only of the earth and the natural world, but also of some of the most sought-after dining experiences around the globe. QD‑7, ul. Waliców 13, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 606 444 462, www.primitivo.com.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00. €€€. T­UB­6

Purr Purr

utensils Asian

This adorable cat cafe and restaurant is home to good food and drink, but the real draw, of course, is cuteness! There are no reservations so make sure to get here early and grab a mug of tea or matcha, or a bite of onigiri as you sink into a comfy armchair and watch the cats roaming around. They ask that visitors be 12 and older, and remember that the Cat Team have a rest day on Monday! While they’re away, Purr Purr features an 8% discount on menu items to brighten your day QD‑2, ul. Pokorna 2/U4, MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 573 538 888, www.instagram.com/purrpurr.wawa. Open 11:00 21:00; Mon 12:00 20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 21:00. €€. U­6­i

Setki Powodów utensils International

A fantastic neighbor of Warsaw’s Polish Vodka Museum, Setki Powodów (Hundreds of Reasons) offers international cuisine in a comfy street-food style with amazing burgers, pastrami sandwiches and seafood. Relax as you taste delectable dishes, listen to live music, and take in surroundings reminiscent of the nearby Neon Museum (this place is well-lit and

beautiful with artistic neon lighting). Consume as you wish, and enjoy the small-but-punchy live music stage in the corner.

Praskie Koneser), 419 31 54, 12:00 12:00

Syrena Irena utensils

When it comes to really good, really modern Polish food, you have to know where to look and Syrena Irena is the place to start. By focusing on making really excellent handcrafted pierogi, the chefs of this iconic space have honed their craft to a science. On the menu find a variety of pierogi you won’t find elsewhere and then customize that order with any number of toppings from caramalized onion to “mermaid sauce.” 4/6, www.syrenairena.pl 09:00

U Barssa utensils

The Old Town is packed with places to eat, but this is one of the few truly great. The signature duck baked with beetroot, fried apples and cranberry sauce, and the Angus steak with green pepper are just two of the winning dishes on the menu, and we have to mention the outstanding wine list. In the summer, they also have a huge summer garden, so call ahead to reserve your space in this charming place.

Rynek Starego Miasta 12/14, (+48) 22 635 24 76, Fri, Sat, 11:00

Zwierciadło utensils

Zwierciadło, or “The Mirror” - presents a menu as a tribute to Warsaw, with dishes inspired by those from the owners’ childhood and those from their parents and grandparents. It also brings classic cocktails upgraded with Warsaw craft gin and vermouth, with each sip bringing you through the history of our fair city. They present dishes rich in flavor and aroma that come from traditional recipes and modern interpretations. They’re all based on seasonal products and products from local suppliers. In the atmospheric space of Zwierciadło you can enjoy lunch, dinner or a stellar cocktail. Krakowskie Przedmieście 4/6, 22 123 62 62, 12:00

Złota

Fine dining

If you want to splash out on some of Warsaw's finest cuisine, we definitely have you covered - testing the food was our pleasure. Whether you're looking for the right venue to impress a potential client, romantic partner or celebrate any kind of special moment, the following pages will keep you right. Bear in mind that reservations are almost essential in any of these venues.

Belvedere

utensils Polish

Located inside the ‘New Orangery’ in the middle of Łazienki Park, Belvedere is one of Warsaw’s most prestigious and romantic restaurants. Essentially a mid-19th century greenhouse, this spectacular venue features floor-to-ceiling windows and is filled with tropical plants, including an over 100-yearold palm tree. Elegant, intimate table settings are placed amongst the indoor foliage, as well as outside, where peacocks wander the grounds. The food lives up to the first-rate atmosphere, with a concise menu of fresh seafood, meats and seasonal dishes. Consistently listed in the Michelin guide for over a decade, a glance at the prices reveals this is a special occsion spot.QI‑12, ul. Agrykoli 1 (New Orangery in Łazienki Park, entrance from ul. Parkowa), MPolitechnika, tel. (+48) 606 10 20 02, www.belvedere.com.pl. Open 12:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 16:30. €€€€. T­B­E

Der Elefant

utensils International

Opened back in 1990, this long-running establishment is spread over various rooms and floors, with a choice of dining experiences. From the street you’ll find their diner-style seafood bar with plenty of fresh fish; alternatively, enter through the courtyard to find a mock shop inside which you’ll see the chefs racing to fill the rapid flow of orders. The concise but diverse menu offers a choice of hot and cold starters (including the recommended Hemingway’s Oyster), burgers, steaks, seafood and some salad and pasta options. They also have a MonFri lunch offer of soup, entree and dessert for 39zł between 12:00 and 15:00. An attractive layout and prices lower than you would expect considering the location make Der Elefant insanely popular.QE‑5, Pl. Bankowy 1, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 890 00 10, www.derelefant.pl. Open 12:00 00:00; Sun 12:00 23:00. €€€. T­U­E

Incredible atmosphere and extravagant flair: U Fukiera (p. 101) is a historic restaurant in the Old Town, offering an exceptional experience.

Elixir by Dom Wódki

utensils Polish

When we first heard of Elixir we instinctively thought, surely someone has already imagined this? Unbelievably, nobody had - so, top marks to the masterminds behind this classy establishment. At their Vodka Atelier, you can try some 800 vodkas from around Poland and the globe; the range goes from PRL era classics to Polish ‘small batch’ distillers, designer vodkas, and flavoured vodkas. Also offered are six different types of Młody Ziemniak from young potatoes) with varieties dating from 2017 (49 zł) to 2022 (25zł). The label of each tells you about the vintage and what the weather and climate were like during its production. Elixir by Dom Wódki

The restaurant itself features stunningly presented, contemporary, and takes on Polish classics with a unique food and vodka pairing system, which recommends specific vodkas to complement the ingredients and flavours of each dish! Such a system is unrivaled anywhere in Poland and the world at large, so this spot is an Absolut (pardon the pun!) top-spot and a truly unique venue on Warsaw’s culinary map.QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 828 22 11, www.restauracjaelixir.pl

Open 12:00 23:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00; Sun 12:00 €€€€. T

InAzia

utensils Asian

Take a delicious journey East with chef Marcin Sasin offering an array of dishes from throughout Asia (think Thailand to Singapore, China to Vietnam). Expect elegant dishes bursting with color adorned with fresh herbs and spices like lemongrass and coriander, as well as an insight into the process thanks to their Omakase-style dinner.

That means a special window that allows you to watch the kitchen in action and chat with the chefs, leading to a perfectly tailored menu. Sleek interiors abound, as do fantastic tasting menus. One of the top Asian restaurants you’ll find in the whole city.QH‑9, ul. Prusa 2 (Sheraton Grand Warsaw), MCentrum, tel. (+48) 22 450 67 06, www.restauracja inazia.pl. Open 17:00 23:00; closed Mon, Sun. €€€€.

KUK Restaurant by Maciej Majewski

utensils Polish

Culinary artistry gets up close and personal with the sophistication and essence of Warsaw’s history, as KUK embraces both a natural and local approach to its menu. Their dishes indulge the taste buds with a range of wholesome ingredients and products, all sourced from trusted crops and seasonal delights just as they were by the discerning foodie class of the

ul. Waliców 13

+48 606 44 44 62

rezerwacje@primitivo.com.pl

Polish Renaissance! KUK is part of the 18th-century Branicki-Szaniawski complex, recently endowed by the glorious Hotel Verte, Poland’s first abode in Marriott’s Autograph Collection of boutique hotels, and the restaurant matches both it and the Polish capital’s vibrance. Chef Maciej Majewski challenges the term ‘restaurant’ for his passion project - for him, it’s a celebration of time and cuisine, where imagination knows no bounds, and exceptional dishes are a testament to that philosophy. He embraces the ‘neobistro’ style of dining with a haute cuisine approach. The result is an imaginative and open-minded approach to crafting one-of-akind culinary compositions, presented to you, the discerning diner, to share, experience, and connect over an array of small, yet numerous and delightful portions! Plus, you can sit outside at their garden which opened in the spring.Qul. Miodowa 6/8, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 511 46 46 45, www.hotelverte.com/kuk. Open 17:00 23:00; Sat, Sun 12:00 23:00. Last order: 22:00. €€€€.

X­T­U­E­6

Nova Wola

utensils Polish Nova Wola encapsulates the spirit of central-west Warsaw’s restlessly developing, trendsetting Wola district, and absolutely nails the concept of ‘premium casual’ dining. Residing within the luxury Crowne Plaza Hotel (part of the ‘Warsaw- The HUB’ complex), complete with an industrial chic interior of polished concrete, dark woods, gold furnishings, lots of glass and big city views, it is here that Nova Wola delivers a decidedly modern take on Polish cuisine. Under Executive Chef Paweł Suchenek’s direction, the menu emphasizes simple plates made with high-quality ingredients sourced from local Polish suppliers and foraged in the wild. Local culinary traditions with contemporary flair offer you a choice of rich soups, premium Polish seasoned beef steaks, fish, and amongst others, a special seasonal menu, with many of the entrees and even soups available in larger portions ideal for sharing. Read about Nova Wola’s breakfast on p. 91 QC‑8, Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 22 377 38 01, www.novawola.com. Open 12:30 16:00, 17:00 22:30. €€€. T­U

Moonsfera

utensils International

One of best restaurants in the city, Moonsfera’s head chef, and owner, is Jarosław Uściński, the President of the Polish Association of chefs and bakers. So it’s safe to say he takes cuisine fairly seriously. The menu is filled with a mix of Polish/International dishes made with the chef’s own personal touch,

both modern and elegant, and it shows as soon as you stare wide eyed at your plate as it’s placed in front of you. A great place to eat and relax, but also somewhere you can also take part in cooking classes. We like that, making the experience inclusive. Here, here.QE‑2, ul. Bonifraterska 17, MDworzec Gdański, tel. (+48) 22 560 37 33, www.moonsfera.pl. Open 12:00 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 21:00. €€€.

T­U­E­6

U Fukiera utensils Polish

Warsaw’s oldest and most famous restaurant, with a tradition going all the way back to the 16th century, is truly a must-see. Run under the star stewardship of Magda Gessler (of Polish MasterChef fame), this enchanting establishment’s interior is a work of art, bedecked with oil paintings and ornate antiques, creating a fantastic ambience. It’s easy to feel like you’re a part of history when dining here, and the guestbook - with such haughty names as Naomi Campbell, Henry Kissinger and Sarah Fergusonsuggests that indeed you are. The menu itself is simultaneously classy, traditional and modern, with dishes like chanterelles in a cream sauce, beetroot carpaccio with dill, sirloin with potato dumplings and a pepper sauce, and much much more -- all perfectly prepared, all perfectly Polish. Right on the Old Town Square, enjoy the delicious, gorgeously presented food and soak up the regal atmosphere that has made this spot so beloved (and famous). And don’t forget to document your experience with pictures!QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 600 99 99 33, www.ufukiera.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€€. T­6

Wabu Sushi & Japanese Tapas

utensils Japanese

Sometimes stiff formality and pretence go hand in hand with fine dining, and though the food may be great, the overall experience can be a bit awkward or even, ugh...tiring. As such, it’s nice to experience exclusive dining in the Japanese Izakaya style (informal eating). Wabu is very much a place for all types of people, from businessmen to couples to tourists and even families, so relax and enjoy. The interior is a minimal and elegantly unfussy gem, that blends in nicely with its modern surroundings on Plac Europejski. The menu is extensive and diverse, and includes a special menu for kids, and a mighty lunch offer (Mon-Fri 12:00-15:00, soup and 8 pieces of sushi for 49zł). Simple and elegant, Wabu has our hearty endorsement.QC‑7, Plac Europejski 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 668 92 59 59, www.wabu.pl. Open 12:00 23:00. €€€€. T­U­6

Food Markets

The popularity of street food and fast gastro concepts has led to an explosion of food markets and indoor dining halls in Warsaw, offering dozens of diverse eating options. Not only a place to slay your hunger, these modern food markets are also trendsetting urban social spaces, featuring bars and hosting events.

Elektrownia Powiśle Food Hall

From the outside, it’s obvious that this former power station (p.56) has been given a new boost of energy following a major overhaul. Elektrownia also contains a whole host of gastro eateries, bars and event spaces. This central food court allows you to choose anything from fries, hot dogs, dim sum dumplings, kebabs, pizza, sushi, curries, Vietnamese, potatoes, fancy pancakes and San Francisco street food. Additionally, there are several more restaurants in the office buildings opposite! You’re spoilt for choice, so let your mood and budget decide (not easy!). Once you’re done dining, check out their five bars, and also keep a regular eye on their events calendar so you don’t miss hip foodie happenings like their ‘Eko Targ’ (Eco Market), selling GMO-free locally-grown produce. QH‑6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com

Open 12:00 23:00; Fri 12:00 24:00; Sat 11:00 24:00; Sun 11:00 23:00. U­6

Food Hall Browary

Occupying a large, brick-walled space in the historic Brewery Cellars, this impressive food hall is arguably the social centre of the Browary Warszawskie district (p.32). With 13 different world cuisines to choose from - ranging from Tuk Tuk's authentic Thai cuisine to Octo, which offer pasta, pizza, seafood and more. there are plenty of enticing options, including special lunch offers.

The focal points are the impressively long Central Bar - well-stocked with beer, fine wine, and cool cocktails courtesy of legendary local bartender Karim Bibars, and the small stage which hosts DJs, bands and a range of thematic events. Grab a seat at a communal table, a plate of good food, and get socialising.QC‑7, ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2 (Browary Warszawskie), MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.foodhallbrowary.pl

Open 12:00 22:00; Wed, Thu, 12:00 24:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 2:00. 6T

Elektrownia Powiśle’s Food Hall is top-notch, with fun, exciting options from around the world.

FOOD TOWN - Fabryka Norblina

Inspired by architectural and culinary trends from all over the world, FOOD TOWN in Fabryka Norblina is ideally situated across five picturesque historic halls, spanning a total area of 3,200 sqm. This unique place, characterised by its stunning period architecture, comes together with a soundtrack of live music and an incredible gastronomic offer that will rouse the palate of every guest that passes through. Food Town at the Norblin Factory is the largest catering zone of its kind in Warsaw, with plenty of gastrononomic concepts, taking you on a culinary journey through Europe, the Middle East, Asia and the Americas. Stepping aside from the wild gastronomic offer, you'll also discover tantalising alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages served in five thematic bars. There's also a stunning ambiance with low lighting, indoor and outdoor options and plenty more. The fifth hall of Fabryka Norblina that coexists alongside Food Hall is dedicated to entertainment and cultural events, taking place across the week – live music, stand-ups and exhibitions. Everything is truly going on here, especially if you want to have a perfect night out!.

QC/D‑8, ul. Żelazna 51/53, MRondo Daszyńskiego, www.foodtown.pl. Open Mon, Tue 08:00 22:00; Wed, Thu 08:00 23:00; Fri 08:00 01:00; Sat 09:00 01:00; Sun 09:00 22:00. Bars are open one hour longer. T­U­6

Hala Koszyki

This historic Art Nouveau market hall originally opened in 1906, but was renovated, redeveloped into a modern mixed-use facility full of bars, restaurants, bookstores and designer boutiques, and reopened in 2016. Smashingly popular, drop in to the ground floor dining area to choose from dozens of diverse options, ranging from top-class independent bistros - like Sobremesa Tapas Bar, Port Royal and Zachodni Brzeg - to some of Warsaw’s top name gastro brands, like Ćma and Warszawski Sen. If you want a variety of casual, tasty food, this is the place to go, with everything from fries to burgers to gelato. But there are fancier options to choose from, too (oysters and pizza are easily found and they are a must). This is one of THE places to be seen in the capital - easily accomplished thanks to the open floor plan - sometimes the place is so packed that mere availability and access dictate which places inside that you’re able to patronage. Even if you can’t find a table at any of the cool eateries and bars, we urge you to spend some time taking in this stunning market hall, which also features shops downstairs and space for cultural events upstairs. Beautiful details abound! QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63, MPolitechnika, www.koszyki.com. Open 08:00 01:00. X­T­U­6

Norblina really has it all.

Nightlife in Warsaw

In Warsaw you’re never far from a great night out. If the weather’s warm, simply head to the river. Elsewhere skint students patronise the dive bars of The Pavilions (G-7, courtyards of ul. Nowy Świat 22/28); for a more mature alternative crowd seek out the artsy bars across the river in Praga (p.64); for a lark with the lads, hit the party strip on ul. Mazowiecka (F-6/7). In practice, bars will stay open well past their given hours if business is good, but also bolt the doors early if not. Visit our website to refine your search and see more reviews. Na zdrowie (cheers!)!

Dance to incredible beats, courtesy of La Playa, which pumps out fun Latin music every night, accompanied by tasty drinks.

Enklawa Art & Music Club Club

A living legend of the Polish capital that always has a finger on the pulse, Enklawa, located in the very heart of Warsaw, has spent the last 20 years hosting some of the city’s wildest cult dance parties, and, even today, it continues to provide a calendar of hotly pursued events. Starting on Wednesdays and operating over four nights of the week, this classy premises exudes style and modernity, and its spacious rooms are brought to life every evening with the highest quality sound and lighting systems on offer. Enklawa is the place to be. With a diverse music cycle that keeps both locals and visitors coming back to be in a space of non-stop good vibes, there's a reason why Enklawa tops the list as one of Warsaw's most popular clubs!

QF‑6, ul. Mazowiecka 12, MNowy Świat Uniwersytet, tel. (+48) 606 31 11 17, www.enklawa.com

Open Wed, Thu 22:00 04:00; Fri, Sat 22:00 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. X­U­E

Amar Beirut Rooftop Bar

Rooftop Cocktail Bar

Amar Beirut offers a big selling point: a stellar rooftop bar. Unwind in the afternoon sun and see the switch from morning cocktails to evening drinks. Try some signature cocktails made by top-tier, award-winning bartenders. Or, try some excellent shisha with a variety of flavors. Of course, there’s plenty of live entertainment here too, and the sounds of the live music plus the taste of an excellent cocktail under the stars makes this really the ultimate spot to be during warm summer nights. If you’re hungry, don’t forget to check out their incredible food offering (p.89) with dishes like hot, locally baked Lebanese breads, authentic falafel, traditional tabbouleh salad, hummus, grilled dishes and more. Enjoy your drinks as you look out over the skyline of Warsaw with the Palace of Culture and Science to one side, and the glistening buildings of Wola to the other.

QC‑8, Żelazna 51/53, MRondo ONZ, tel. (+48) 799 600 700, www.amarbeirut.pl

Open 12:00 24:00; Fri 12:00 02:00; Sat, Sun 08:00 02:00.

Bars & Clubs

3/4 Koneser Bar

Cocktail Bar

If you’re eager to experience Polish vodka the right way (sip, don’t shoot!), go straight to the source. Located on the 3rd floor of the Polish Vodka Museum (p.65), this spectacular bar makes dozens of their own artisanal alcohol infusions - raspberry with rosemary, horseradish, or mango lassi are just a few of their surprising and constantly changing flavours. The current concept is based on the sense of touch and sight, fabrics, colours and texture. The lovely seasonal terrace offers great views of the heart of Praga and you can also try a premium whisky tasting from The Secret Speyside Collection. Na zdrowie!QK‑2/3, Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 22 419 31 52, www.koneserbar.pl. Open 16:00 23:00; Fri, Sat 15:00 01:00; Sun 15:00 23:00; closed Mon. Subject to change. U­B­6

Symbol Key

Figa z Makiem Cheese Box Bar

Wine Bar

The ultimate wine and cheese spot, Figa z Makiem (Fig with Poppies) Cheese Box Bar offers an array of delectable snacks from all over the world, with a special focus on cheese (and the best wine to pair with it), including sheep, goat, cow, Italian, Spanish and French. And, for the real wine lovers, there’s even a cheese with a red wine base. If you dont want to try the wine and cheese there, you can grab an elegant take-out box that includes cheese (of course), a bottle of wine and a card! The take-home option is excellent for gifts and more -- or just for yourself when you want to recreate a great night in Koneser in the comfort of your own home!QK‑2/3, Plac Konesera 2, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 538 359 777. Open 11:00 20:00; Sat 12:00 22:00; Sun 12:00 20:00. B­S­6

Enklawa is where Warsaw finds its rhythm. (p.105).

HighGarden Rooftop Lounge

Rooftop Cocktail Bar

Located atop the highest building in the EU, and the tallest skyscraper in Poland, right in the heart of the city, is HighGarden Rooftop Lounge, a bar with soul and flavors and excellent cocktails right in the middle of the sky. Known as the highest cocktail bar in the EU, this place is found on the 49th floor of the VARSO Tower and offers some spectacular views as you sip your drinks. The ambiance is top-notch: a green oasis of plants, and a real garden suspended in the clouds with direct access to an observation deck. This spot is known for signature cocktails and wide range of mocktails along with a menu of great snacks inpsired by local flavors. It’s truly elegant and considered “a nightlife spot with a soul.” Here, you can come to celebrate, eat, drink, have good conversation and gaze at the skyline. A must after a long day of wandering around the city!QE 8, Varso Tower, Chmielna 69, MRondo ONZ, www.highlinewarsaw.com. Open 10:00 22:00. B­E­

La Playa Beach Club

This Vistula-hugging beach club and beer garden lures throngs of the young and beautiful to Warsaw’s right bank. Featuring several bars, a covered stage, plenty of seating and Caribbean vibes, a variety of diverse DJ nights are in store, with a heavy emphasis on Latin beats during the weekends, when the samba and salsa crowd take over the outdoor dance floor. Zumba and salsa classes are available to assist those with two left feet. If dancing the night away isn’t really your thing, how about frisbee, beach volleyball, badminton or boules? There’s even fire dancing and other incredible sights on select Saturdays. Of course, such an exotic venue needs exotic cocktails and the list is extensive. The daytime views of the Old Town across the water are priceless, but at night...just, wow. Make reservations at biuro@ laplaya.pl with the date, time and number of people. Otherwise, check Facebook for opening times and closed events.QG‑3, ul. Wybrzeże Helskie 1/5, MDworzec Wileński, tel. (+48) 506 822 482, www.laplaya.pl. Open 17:00 24:00; Fri 17:00 02:00; Sat 13:00 03:00; Sun 13:00 01:00; closed Mon. Open from June till end of August. B

MOON Club

Westfield Arkadia Jana Pawła 82 St.

THE LARGEST PORK KNUCKLE IN TOWN

A unique, boutique club with a range of house music and an intimate vibe? Sign us up! Club MOON has a very cool offering, with every Saturday - for a select number of 400 club members - major names in the DJ scene will play house music, deep house, afro

Bars & Clubs | Nightlife

house, melodic house, disco house, organic and tech house. This is the spot to be with all kinds of wellknown artists playing here, including HOT SINCE 82, Damian Lazarus, Catz ‘N Dogz, Claptone, Adam Ten, Carlita, Salome Le Chat, SAMM, Yulia Niko, Francis Mercier, Nick Morgan, Jimmy Jules, LP Giobbi, Krystal Klear and many more. Every Saturday night, starting at 11 p.m. -- seriously, don’t miss this place!QJ‑8, Wioślarska 6, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, www.moonwarsaw.pl/. Open Sat 23:00 06:00.

Pepper Events Club

Making its presence known in the Polish capital’s urban jungle, the anomaly that is Pepper Events adds an exotic flair to the higher-class venues of Warsaw. The unique, sophisticated space includes both a euphoric club scene and a restaurant with an indulgent food menu. That’s all amplified with a stunning year-round garden and cocktail bar of the highest calibre, making it an ideal space for an intimate business meeting, a banquet, a product presentation, a large corporate event or even bachelor/bachelorette parties.QF‑9, ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 730 06 80 68, www.pepperevents.pl. Open 12:00 24:00. X­B­E­6

SEN Club

If you’ve come to SEN (PL for ‘dream’) to enjoy the restaurant (18:00-01:00), we give you a humble nod for making a solid choice, but if you’ve decided to stay and sup on the awesome cocktails, we salute you - you won’t be disappointed. Although not huge, the panoramic backdrop pairs up perfectly with the lounge vibe. There is a door selection, so dress to impress, and don’t be put off - the staff do their best to maintain the unique and positive character inside, which just adds to your enjoyment. The music’s great and the bar is well stocked, what’s not to enjoy? If you stay until the end, you may very well agree with the venue’s tag line: it was all a dream.QJ‑7, ul. Wioślarska 6, MCentrum Nauki Kopernika, tel. (+48) 883 02 50 25, www.senwarsaw.pl. Open 19:00 06:00; closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Open Fri & Sat 19:00 06:00 only. X­E

The Roof

Rooftop Cocktail Bar

A truly sky-high experience, the stunning vistas of the city are perfectly complemented by the bar offer, which invites visitors to explore the exciting and diverse selection of cocktails, and unique concoctions that have been curated to reflect the extraordinary essence of Warsaw’s skyline and

capture the spirit of the city in every sip. In line with the Crowne Plaza Hotel, the prestigious name that looks after this magical nest, The Roof floor boasts stylish interiors that contribute to its wonderfully sophisticated atmosphere. The sights are further enhanced by a range of acoustic performances and intimate cultural events that are hosted here. QC‑8, ul. Rondo Daszyńskiego 2, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. +48 881 97 41 44, www.theroofskybar.com. Open 18:00 24:00; Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 1:00. U­E

The ROOTS Cocktail Bar & more

Cocktail Bar

This is the spot for cocktail lovers! This bar is a shrine to the noble art of being a barman/mixologist. Check out their intriguing collection of vintage and antique ‘tools of the trade’ – the collection of mixers alone already stands at nearly 100 items! Add to this a library of antiquarian books on the subject of bartending/cocktail mixing and you know you are dealing with some hardcore and very scholarly mixologists.

ROOTS is so well-versed in the art of making cocktails, they have enough tricks for two great menus - one featuring classics of the trade and another which presents signature drinks based on seasonal regional flavours. Make sure you scrutinise both and ask for a recommendation at the bar. Food is also available in the form of a Polish fusion menu, which is intriguing enough to at least take a peek at.QF‑5, ul. Wierzbowa 11, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 660 333 983, www.theroots.pl. Open 17:00 24:00; Fri 17:00 02:00; Sat 14:00 02:00; closed Mon, Sun. 6

UPPER DECK Wine & Cocktail Bar

Cocktail Bar

Sophisticated, atmospheric and contemporary, Upper Deck lives up on the perch of Warsaw’s historic food hall, Hala Koszyki, located in the center of the city. This spot, with warm lighting, sparkling, smoky cocktails and delightful jazz music, offers a exceptional experience for those seeking innovative cocktails and tasty wines. With an impressive selection of over 70 different labels available at attractive prices, it’s the perfect destination for enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike. Self-described as having a ‘jazz soul’, live music is an important part of the atmosphere, especially on Friday nights when they have live jazz concerts. Ideal for intimate meetings, business gatherings, or groups of friends -- everyone enjoys this spot.QF‑10, ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), MPolytechnika, tel. (+48) 507 66 39 75. Open 14:00 23:00; Thu 14:00 24:00; Fri, Sat 14:00 01:00; Sun 16:00 21:00. E

Shopping in Warsaw

Warsaw offers a wide diversity of shopping experiences, from old school markets to luxury boutiques (primarily along ul. Nowy Świat and ul. Mokotowska: G-7, H-8/9) to some of Central Europe’s most modern shopping malls. For visitors, it’s an opportunity to shop exclusive designer brands, catch bargains on known commodities or find forgotten treasures. Happy hunting!

Lilou is shopping in style (p. 111)

Amber & Jewellery

Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line

This gorgeous gallery specialises in luxury handcrafted jewellery of the amber variety, but crystal, silver and gold items can be purchased here too. This is the location of the largest and oldest amber dealer in the city, a family run business going back to 1988, proudly selling amber of Polish origincertified by the International Amber Association. Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line Even heads of State and royalty have been spotted procuring presents here, from Bill Clinton to Japanese princesses (whose thank you letters you can see inside)! Choose from pieces by Polish artisans and top designers, plus high quality jewellery made with other precious stones.QF‑4, Rynek Starego Miasta 9/11/13, MRatusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 831 69 61, www.warsawamber.pl. Open 10:00 19:00; Sun 10:00 17:00.

Lilou

A phenomenally successful Polish jewellery chain where customers can select their own components to create a unique and personalised piece. The range continues to grow, with the original luxury charm bracelet still the biggest seller. Choose a bracelet type and any number of simple silver or gold plated charms in a variety of shapes, then have it hand-engraved with whatever or whoever means a lot to you. A ‘must-have’ item amongst local celebs and fashionistas. Also at ul. Francuska 27 (L-7), Westfield Arkadia (B/C-2), Westfield Mokotów, Sadyba Best Mall and Centrum Handlowe Janki.QH‑9, ul. Mokotowska 63, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 506 19 08 97, www.lilou.pl. Open 11:00 19:00; Sat 11:00 18:00; Sun 11:00 16:00*.

Gifts & Souvenirs

E-Manufaktura

It’s sometimes hard to find that perfect gift from Poland to take back home with you. We understand the problem. This is why we whole heartedly recommend E-Manufaktura, which is not only a shop in Warsaw, but also an online shop for you to look through an extensive catalogue in the comfort of your home. From egg cups, plates, bowls, and all other kitchenware you can think of, you’ll find it here! The famous hand-painted ceramics, Bolesławiec , make up the core of what’s on offer. It doesn't get more Polish than this! Well worth a visit for even the most discerning tourist. Q F‑3, ul. Freta 14, M Ratusz Arsenał, tel. (+48) 22 636 06 84, www.e manufaktura.com . Open 10:00 18:00.

HELLO! GIFT SHOP

Presents that are perfect to take home for friends and family and oh-so-Polish! Roam into the Warsaw Old Town to find these two delightful shops, which sell gifts made in Poland and recalling Polish history and tradition. Find a huge range of products with colorful folk patterns, Polish ceramics and porcelain, even models of Polish cars, T-shirts with fashionable prints, and all kinds of gifts sporting various Warsaw symbols. Check out their second location on ul. Freta 26/28.QF‑4, Piwna 17/19, MRatusz Arsenal. Open 10:00 20:00; Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 22:00.

Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki

Of all Polish gifts, none are as visually exciting as Bolesławiec pottery. With a mix of cups, plates, bowls and other kitchenware with various colours and designs, you can’t go wrong to buy friends, family, or even yourself one of these classic but quirky items. What’s more, at this location, not only do you get the chance to buy something of your pleasing, but you can join in some workshops (offered Thu-Sat 16:00 or 18:00) to make and paint anything you want in the studio! QF‑8, Al. Jerozolimskie 49, MCentrum, tel. (+48) 690 80 01 84, www.pomaluj.art. Open 11:00 19:00; closed Sun.

Shopping

Shopping Malls

Designer Outlet Warszawa

Set inside an impressive collection of buildings evoking the Baroque style of Warsaw’s Old Town, this is a premium outlet mall, with the interior that makes you feel like you’re walking through a fashion high street. Here you’ll find discounts ranging from 30-70% off on brands like Adidas, Armani, Boss, Calvin Klein, Coccinelle, GAP, Guess, Furla, Karl Lagerfeld, Levi’s, Liu Jo, Longines, Luisa Spagnoli, Michael Kors, Nike, Pinko, Polo Ralph Lauren, Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and more. Just 30mins from the city centre and 20mins from Chopin Airport, it’s easily reached by car and public transport (use a zone 2 ticket and get off at ‘Energetyczna 01’).Qul. Puławska 42E (Piaseczno), MWilanowska, tel. (+48) 22 737 31 15, www.designeroutletwarszawa.pl. Open 10:00 22:00; Sun 10:00 21:00*.

Dom Mody KLIF

Klif has been attracting fashion lovers for over 20 years, with locations across Poland. If you think you’ve seen this all before, however, you’re mistaken. This is the capital, after all, and the quality of brands is exceptionally high, not to mention the stunning showrooms inside. Shop top tags like MaxMara, Elisabetta Franchi, PennyBlack, Michael Kors, Karl Lagerfeld and DM Moda, as well as respected mainstream brands like Olsen and S’Portofino Another draw is the convenient, easy to get to location - roll in by tram, bus or car. What’s more, anyone can use the services of the pro stylists at FASHION STUDIO.QB‑4, ul. Okopowa 58/72, MRondo Daszyńskiego, tel. (+48) 535 41 14 58, www.klif.pl. Open 09:00 21:00; Sun 10:00 20:00*. Eurospar open Mon Sat 08:30 22:00; Sun 09:00 20:00*.

*Sunday Shopping in PL

In its effort to get people out of shopping malls and into churches, the Polish government has imposed regulations preventing most businesses from opening their doors on Sundays. Of course, there are exceptions, including 7 special Sundays when shops are open each year, and the rules don’t apply to restaurants, bars, cafes, pharmacies, gas stations, kiosks, bakeries, open-air markets, souvenir shops and anywhere the business owner is personally working behind the counter. When you see an asterisk* after the Sunday hours in our guide, that means the venue is closed on Sundays.

Upcoming shopping Sundays: Aug. 15

Elektrownia Powiśle

When Elektrownia Powiśle (p.56) opened, we can only say we were impressed. The exterior doesn’t look all too big, but once inside you realise it’s much bigger than you’d ever expect! So what’s here?

Imagine this as a multifunctional centre, including sooped up shops completely new to Poland (nay, in Central and Eastern Europe even!) such as Urban Outfitters, True Color, Weekday, COS, Elementy, Balagan, Galilu, Chosen By (to name a few), plenty more boutiques, beauty salons, a top floor event space, as well as their awesome gastro and nightlife offer (p.102). You can shop until you drop, then pick yourself up with some great food, all the while being delighted with the look and feel of the place too.

QH/I‑6, ul. Dobra 42, MCentrum Nauki Kopernik, tel. (+48) 22 128 56 00, www.elektrowniapowisle.com.

Elektrownia open Mon Sun 11:00 21:00 Food Hall open Mon Thu 12:00 23:00, Fri 12:00 24:00, Sat 11:00 24:00, Sun 11:00 23:00 Beauty Hall open Mon Sat 08:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 19:00.

FACTORY Outlet Annopol

This massive outlet mall is closer than you think! Save up to 70% on premium name brands like Adidas, Nike, Ecco, Medicine, Guess, Under Armour, Pepe Jeans, Converse, Vans, Puma, Tefal, Tommy Hilfiger, Smyk, 4F, RTV Euro AGD and more.

FACTORY Outlet Annopol The options here are nearly endless and you can find amazing premium wear for such a low price that it’s going to be hard to rationalize NOT buying everything. Plus, you can find food and cafe options here so it’s really a spend-allday or shop-till-you-drop kind of experience. Easily accessible by public transportation, or you can take your car (especially if it's electric - there's a charging station here!)Qul. Annopol 2 (Białołęka), tel. (+48) 22 441 90 00, www.annopol.factory.pl. Open 10:00 21:00; Sun 10:00 20:00*.

FACTORY Outlet Ursus

This outlet shopping mall southwest of the city centre is preoccupied with fashion, offering top brand names at 30-70% discounts over regular rack rates, all in a gorgeous, sun-drenched spot!

FACTORY Outlet Ursus Recognisable brands include Tommy Hilfiger, Marc’o Polo, BOSS, Nike, Adidas, Guess, Calvin Klein, New Balance, Calzedonia, Lindt, Haribo, Tefal, Ochnik, Wittchen, and many more. And, it needs repeating, these are all at a discount. So you can shop premium clothing, jewelry and more for way less than the normal price!QPl. Czerwca 1976r. 6 (Ursus), tel. (+48) 22 478 22 70, www.ursus.factory.pl Open 10:00 21:00; Sun 10:00 20:00*.

Venue Index

Print space is finite, but the internet is a vast, vacuous void we’ve devoted our lives to filling. If the venue you’re looking for isn’t listed here, you’ll likely find it amongst the hundreds of places in Warsaw listed on our website: warsaw.inyourpocket.com

3/4 Koneser Bar 106

Adam Mickiewicz Monument 49

Agnieszka Osiecka Monument 66

AïOLI Bread & Apertivo 89

AïOLI Cantine Bar Cafe Deli 90

Amar Beirut 89, 90

Amar Beirut Rooftop Bar 105

Amber Art Gallery - Silver Line 111

Anielewicz Bunker 79

Asia & Pacific Museum 72

Banjaluka 92

Beauty Hall 84

Beef n’ Pepper 92

Beer&Wine SPA 84

Belvedere 98

Belvedere Palace 59

Bierhalle 93

Bliski Wschód Vege Street Food & Cocktail Bar 93

Botanical Garden 60

Bristol & Europejski Hotels 51

Browary Warszawskie 32

BursztyNova Restaurant 93

Centrum Praskie Koneser 65

Choose Your Adventure! 52

Chopin Benches 51

Chopin Monument 59

Ciao Napoli 94

City Sightseeing Warsaw 27

Copernicus Science Centre 56

Cucina Mia 94

Czerwony Wieprz 94

Daebak 94

Der Elefant 98

Designer Outlet Warszawa 21, 112

Dom Mody KLIF 112

Elektrownia Powiśle 56, 112

Elektrownia Powiśle Food Hall 102

Elixir by Dom Wódki 99

E-Manufaktura 111

Enel Med 85

Enklawa Art & Music Club 105

Estell Clinic 85

E. Wedel Chocolate Factory Museum 86

E.Wedel Chocolate Factory Museum 72

Fabryka Norblina 33

FACTORY Outlet Annopol 112

FACTORY Outlet Ursus 112

Figa z Makiem Cheese Box Bar 106

Food Hall Browary 102

FOOD TOWN - Fabryka Norblina 103

Fryderyk Chopin Museum 54

Gnojna Góra 46

Gościniec Polskie Pierogi 95

Gospoda pod Zygmuntem 95

Hala Koszyki 37, 103

HELLO! GIFT SHOP 111

HighGarden Rooftop Lounge 107

Highline Warsaw (VARSO Tower) 37

Holy Cross Church 52

InAzia 99

Invisible Exhibition 74

Jan Kiliński Monument 42

Jewish Historical Institute 79

King Sigismund's Column 48

Kładka na Wiśle (Footbridge) 56

KUK Restaurant by Maciej Majewski 99

La Playa 107

Lilou 111

Maria Skłodowska-Curie Museum 73

Mariensztat 57

MEATing Restaurant 95 melt museum 73

MK Bowling Entertainment Center 83 MOON 107 Moonsfera 100 Museum of Dollhouses,

Museum of Life under Communism 74, 83

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw 74

Museum of Warsaw, Main Branch 45

Museum World of Illusion 82

Myślewicki Palace 60

Namaste India 96

Nar Restaurant 91, 96

National Ethnographic Museum 75

Neon Museum 75

Nicolaus Copernicus Monument 52

Nova Wola 91, 100

Okopowa Street Jewish

Cemetery 79

Old Orangery 60

Old Town Defensive Ramparts 43

Old Town Square 44

Palace of Culture & Science 29

Palace on the Isle 60

Pasaż Wiecha 35

PaTaThai Powiśle 96

Pepper Events 108

PGE National Stadium 66

PierOgarnia 96

Plac Defilad 34

Plac Europejski & Warsaw Spire 33

Plac Grzybowski 34

Plac Konstytucji 36

Plac Pięciu Rogów & ul. Chmielna 35

Plac Piłsudskiego 32

Plac Zamkowy 41

Plac Zbawiciela 36

POLIN Museum 79

Polish History Museum 76

Polish Vodka Museum 65

Pomaluj.art - Galeria Bolesławiec & Studio Ceramiki 111

Potocki Mausoleum 63

Powiśle Mermaid Statue 55

Praga Museum of Warsaw 65

Presidential Palace 50

PRIMITIVO Kuchnia i Wino 96

Purr Purr 91, 96

Royal Castle 42

Saska Kępa - Ul. Francuska 66

Saxon Garden 32

SEN 108

Setki Powodów

Skaryszewski Park

Smart Kids Planet 82, Stacja Caffe

Stacja Grawitacja

St. Anne's Church

St. Anne's Church & Tower

St. John the Baptist Cathedral

Syrena Irena 91, Theatre on the Island

The Little Insurgent Monument

The Roof 108

The ROOTS Cocktail Bar & more 108

The University of Warsaw

Traficar Car Share

U Barssa

U Fukiera 101

Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art

Ul. Kanonia

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście

ul. Nowy Świat

ul. Ząbkowska

UPPER DECK Wine & Cocktail Bar 108

Vistula River Boulevards

Vodka Museum

Wabu Sushi & Japanese Tapas 101

Warsaw Arcade Museum 83, Warsaw Barbican

Warsaw National Museum

Warsaw Photoplasticon

Warsaw Rising Museum

Warsaw University Library

Rooftop Gardens 56

Warsaw University of Technology 36

Warsaw Zoo 66

WawaBus 27

White Pavilion 60

Wilanów Lake & Island 63

Wilanów Palace Museum 62

Wilanów Park & Gardens 62

Zachęta National Gallery of Art 76

Złote Tarasy 35

Zwierciadło 97

FABRYKA NORBLINA

THE

MOST

STREETS IN WARSAW FABRYKA NORBLINA THE MOST

ENTERTAINING

ENTERTAINING

STREETS IN WARSAW

ŻELAZNA 51/53

ŻELAZNA 51/53