Savoire-vivre, savoir-faire, and French elegance

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CASHMEREISSUE • n°33 • 2023

In 1893, Frédéric Boucheron was the first jeweler to open a boutique on place Vendôme. Four generations, who in the space of 160 years have developed their distinctive style, reputation, expertise and above all, their dream

SAVOIR-VIVRE, SAVOIR-FAIRE AND FRENCH ELEGANCE

[ JEWELS ]
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Below, an inseparable part of Boucheron’s history, the legendary and iconic store at number 26, Place Vendôme in Paris. Left-hand page, the toucan bracelet from the Carte Blanche Collection, one of the most technical pieces in the collection, with gemstones creating wonderful colours on the beak

Landmark One of the oldest jewellery houses in Paris, renowned for its creative style and characterful gems, the brand was founded by Frédéric Boucheron, head of a French jewellery dynasty, in 1858. In 1898 it became the first prestigious name to move to Place Vendôme, making its home in a mansion house at number 26. The location had been chosen with care, for it was it was in a position to receive the maximum amount of sunlight, so the sparkling gems and jewels in the windows could be seen at their best. In the basement lived the Countess of Castiglione - she loved these creations and soon became one of the House’s most important ambassadors. That same year, the company expanded internationally with the opening of a shop in Moscow, followed by boutiques in London, New York and then Tokyo.

The Boucheron company has long been recognised as a superb sculptor of gold, giving priority to working with this noble metal with all its magnificence, its innate forms breathtakingly revealed when shaped by the hands of gifted artisans. Since its very beginnings Boucheron has constantly tried and tested different materials, like the innovative, recently-developed Cofalit®. The brand is fascinated by fine gemstones and exotic materials, and incorporates into its collections lapis lazuli, coral, hematite, onyx, hemp and snakewood. In the 1980s rock crystal became one of House’s favourite materials, chosen for its transparency with inclusions.

Incredibly, Boucheron’s artisans have worked on the top floor of the Place Vendome townhouse since 1893. To enhance the radiance of each stone, the House has mastered all existing setting techniques and developed its own, such as the Mosaic, Mirror and Airy settings. The Airy setting seems to magnify the stone, which appears to float the air as if by magic.

As standard bearer for France’s jewellery sector, Maison Boucheron is committed to preserving and enhancing the know-how, skills and techniques of the jewellery and watchmaking industry. Recognised as an audacious

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and visionary company, Boucheron values innovation at all levels, from raw materials to boutiques, enabling it to take responsibility for its impact on the environment. Since 2006, the Maison has been a member of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), a standard-setting organisation that aims to advance ethical, responsible, human rights and social environmental practices throughout the diamond, gold and platinum jewellery supply chain.

Since the year 2000 Boucheron has been a part of the Kering Group, which has developed a Gold Code defining a common ethical gold supply framework for all its brands. The Gold Code also identifies a system for the responsible purchasing of gold, the Kering Ethical Gold Framework (KEGF). The KEGF advocates a responsible gold buying process based on a system of traceability, at a cost that is acceptable to the brands.

THE NEW ECO-SUSTAINABLE CAPSULE COLLECTION

Redefining the meaning of the word “precious”, the Jack de Boucheron Ultime collection features Cofalit®, an industrial waste material that is otherwise used only for highway embankments, and is deemed completely unrecyclable. Its latest creation has enabled the brand to continue its exploration of precious materials by introducing a new element that challenges the conventions established by the high jewellery sector. “Cofalit® is the exact opposite of what is considered precious in the collective imagination. I appreciate the radicalism and the aesthetic aspect of this re-used industrial by-product that has reached the final stage of its life cycle. I was inspired by the fact that this material seems to have no further use. I wanted to restore its value in a lasting way through this capsule collection”, explains the brand’s creative director. Inspired by this vision, the research and development team joined forces with Boucheron artisans to give a radically new interpretation to jewellery traditions by creating the iconic Jack de Boucheron UltiMe with Cofalit® This juxtaposition between extreme preciousness and a so-called “final material” expresses the very essence of Boucheron - pushing the boundaries of innovation and making use of current technological advances to create jewels that are meaningful and highly creative.

www.bucheron.com

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[ JEWELS ]

This page, clockwise, from the Histoire de Style collection, the New Maharani Crystal necklace, Carte Blanche - Ailleurs Rotin Diamant necklace and the New Sarpech brooch with diamonds and white gold. Right, Cofalit® jewellery pieces from the Jack de Boucheron Ultime collection.

Left-hand page, clockwise, the Chromatique brooch, the Opalescence brooch & earring, the the Grand Salon at number 26 Place Vendome and, below, Creative Director Claire Choisne who joined Boucheron in 2011, bringing a touch of innovation and originality

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