Page 1

year XXVI

— the english issue —


p. 4

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

ADVERTISER INDEX Ambrogi Forni

pag. 19

App – Pizza e Pasta Italiana

pag. 78

Canuti

pag. 43

World Pizza Championship

pag. 10, 11

Coldline

pag. 87

Cuppone Ovens

pag. 15

Dell'oro

pag. 53

Eredi Malaguti - M.a.m

pag. 61 pag. 130, 131

Ferrarelle

pag. 57

Fiera Milano – Host Fiera di Rimini – Sigep

pag. 118

Forni Dorigo

pag. 111

Fratelli Beretta 1812

pag. 123 pag. 77

Gam International Gimetal

pag. 103

Grandi Molini Italiani

pag. 132

Gulfood

pag. 125

International Pizza Expo Italmill

pag. 95

pag. 32, 33, 36, 37

Latteria Sorrentina

pag. 119

Liner – Italia

pag. 79

Lilly Codroipo

pag. 83

Love it

pag. 99

Marana

pag. 85

Millberg

pag. 89

Molino Agugiaro e Figna

pag. 24, 25

Molino Caputo

pag. 46, 47

Molino Dalla Giovanna

pag. 72, 73

Molino Polselli

pag. 2, 3

Oem Ali Spa

pag. 101

Parma Latticini Pastaline Prontofresco Greci

Rinaldi Superforni Sanfelici Franco Smoky Elettromeccanica Stefano Ferrara Forni

6 COMMENTARY by Giampiero Rorato

Four Champions of pizza 20

8 WHO WE ARE by Giampiero Rorato

12 — Pizza World Championship 2015

28

16

THE RESTAURANT

MILAN EXPO 2015

— TOWARD EXPO MILAN by Giampiero Rorato

— Don Alfonso by Giampiero Rorato

40

pag. 49

THE RESTAURANT

pag. 121

“Il Desco”

pag. 67

Refrattari Pavesi Modena pag. 106, 107 Refrattari Valoriani

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

pag. 92, 93 pag. 117 pag. 27 pag. 115 pag. 7

Sitta

pag. 97

Ventidue

pag. 39

by Giampiero Rorato


p. 5

50

Pasta

by Giampiero Rorato

THE FLOURS 54

From grain to flour 58 Soft grain flour on the market by Dott. Alessia Pagotto Technologist

62 SOURDOUGH YEAST

74

104

WINE

OIL

— The ideal marriage with food

— The complex world of oil

edited by G.R.

80 INTERVIEW

— Let’s talk about Chianti Classico

108

by Virgilio Pronzati

112

86 THE WINE CORNER

— A serious approach to natural sourdough yeast by Giampiero Rorato

64 BREAD

— Bread is the milestone of food civilization in the Western world by Giampiero Rorato

by Dott.ssa Marisa Cammarano - Food Biologist

by Virgilio Pronzati

90

Brand design

edited by O.L.

The consortium of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO by Giampiero Rorato

THE COFFEE

— Roasted coffee and high quality mixes by Dr. Eliana Cossio

94 THE BAR CORNER

— Branca's brother Fernet Liquor by Virgilio Pronzati

68 THE SWEET CORNER

98 WATER

— Red Perceptions

— Sparkling water — Mineral Water

by Giovanna Allegra

by Laura Nascimben

Tourism is the happy discovery of the wonder of the world 122

by Gianluca Rorato

126 –130 SCUOLA ITALIANA PIZZAIOLI — The school for professionals in Italy and abroad

—>


c p. 6

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

ommentary

“The World is our home.” This is not an effect statement but the verification that the technological development of recent times; the immediate knowledge of what happens in every angle of the globe and even beyond; the increase of the intercontinental trips also for work reasons, for education and for tourism; the intensification of cultural, scientific and commercial exchanges; besides a permanent emigration of people, this all has eliminated the ancient artificial and fragile barriers between countries and nationalities, making us feel indeed citizens of the world.

by Giampiero Rorato For a long time, knowledge and products of quality expand from a continent to the other, improving people’s life. This is true for scientific discoveries, it is also true for the enormous development of medicine, and for gastronomy and much more. And as for gastronomy, this branch is able to move an enormous quantity of interests and of productive and commercial activities, both for the food sector – wheat, olive oil, wine, cheese, cured meat, fruit, vegetable, etc. – and for the great variety of machines and equipment necessary to produce and to transform into food raw materials.

Let’s solely think about pizza, this wonderful Italian dish that is known in every continent, to understand all those products, equipment, skills rotate around this sector. Italy holds in gastronomy a world record that derives from a two-thousand year old tradition, of a culture that plants its roots in ancient Greece, in Rome of the Cesaris and in the civilization been born by the encounter between the GreekRoman culture and the values emerged with Christianity. The love for beautiful and good things that Italian food culture characterizes is not born, therefore, by chance, and if this magazine has been enga-

ged for more than 25 years to make known, to enhance and to promote the made in Italy food and wine sector, it is because we all know that Italian food products are anywhere considered by experts of high quality as the products of the industries that operate to the service of this important sector. In the following pages, we will introduce some aspects of this world, aware that the Italian industry has acquired in the world a high prestige level and a primacy that is hard to be dented, because it is able to transform with skilled work and enhance it at its best both raw material and end products.

www.giampierororato.blogspot.com

PIZZA E PASTA ITALIANA Monthly food and food culture issue Published by PIZZA NEW S.p.A. With permission of the court of Venice n. 1019 del 02/04/1990 Year XXVI - 2015,January, Nr. 1/bis English Issue Repertorio ROC n. 5768 EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Massimo Puggina EDITOR Giampiero Rorato EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Caterina Orlandi ADVERTISING Manuela Pelosin, Patrizio Carrer, Caterina Orlandi PROJECT MANAGER David Mandolin EDITING OFFICE 30021 CAORLE (Venezia) via Sansonessa, 49 Tel. +39 0421 212348 - Fax +39 0421 81007 E-mail: redazione@pizzaepastaitaliana.it www.pizzaepastaitaliana.it

GRAPHIC DESIGN Manuel Rigo and Paola Dus — mediagraflab.it DIGITAL PUBLISHING Maura Trolese — mediagraflab.it COVER ILLUSTRATED BY Pierluigi Longo PRINTING OFFICE MEDIAGRAF SpA Noventa Padovana (Pd) - ITALY EDITORIAL AND TECHNICAL COMMITTEE Giovanna Allegra, Marisa Cammarano, Patrizio Carrer, Elsa Emanuela Cugola, Giuseppe Dell’Aquila, Tony Gemignani (U.S.A.), David Mandolin, Gianandrea Rorato, Gianluca Rorato, Federica Zanata, Caterina Vianello, Laura Nascimben, Fabio Iacozzilli PIZZA E PASTA ITALIANA INTERNATIONAL Jim Winship (Pizza & Pasta Association, Inghilterra) Pete La Chapelle (N.A.P.O. - Pizza Today, U.S.A.), P.M.Q. Steve Green (U.S.A.)Abbie Jarman (Pizza, U.S.A.) Hidenao Takahashi (Pan World Inc., Giappone) Kazuko Nagamoto (ICT,

Giappone) Takeshi Tanaka (Quattro Stagioni, Giappone) Drew McCarthy (Canadian Pizza Magazine, Canada) Roberto Bresciani (Pizza y Restauration, Spagna), Valeria Vairo (Buongiorno Italia). ASSOCIATED WITH THE ITALIAN UNION FOR PERIODICAL PRESS

FOR ADVERTISING OF FOREIGN MAGAZINES ITALIA Pizza e Pasta Italiana SPAGNA RRR Revista de Restauración Rapida, Pizza y Restauración U.S.A. Pizza Today, Pizza, P.M.Q. Steve Green INGHILTERRA Pizza, Pasta & Italian Food GERMANIA Buongiorno Italia – TEL +39 0421 83148 FAX +39 0421 81007


p. 8

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

WHO

WE ARE P

izza e pasta italiana has been for 26 years the world leading magazine in food and pizza sector.

we have reached the 4th edition of

our magazine in english for the international markets for all those people who are involved in the high end pizza products. a brief journey through raw materials, baking techniques, recipes, great food personalities, who are making history in our gastronomy of excellence.

T

he editor of this magazine, Pizza New Spa, was among the first one to believe in this branch, that of pizza, which with time from a poor food, spread above all around Italy, became a nutritionally complete food, made by first order professionals. Pizza e Pasta Italiana could only be an Italian product. Italy is historically the food world food cradle and land of pizza from the earliest times. We as Italians, proudly promote our knowledge and our excellent products casted in an international environment, that of pizza. Pizza is a democratic and convivial food, apparently simple but highly complex. To make and bake a good pizza is very difficult, and this is why through


p. 9

this magazine we strive to offer our readers, many all around the world, a panoramic as complete as possible, rich in techniques, recipes, tricks, reportages, technologies, and news which accompany this internationally dynamic sector. In Pizza e Pasta Italiana, you will nevertheless find the more classic catering, because we believe that the education both of chefs and pizzaioli has to be at 360°, and because we think that every professional category is able to find hints, crossings and common ground with the work of others. The editor of this magazine, that in Italy is released every month and that you can

find in English for free as an application on Apple Store, is not only strictly the sheer editor, but it is also the organizer of the world most known pizza event, the Pizza World Championship. This event has been held every year in Italy for 24 years, and it represent the world get together for all pizza lovers around the world. During three days of show, operators, pizza chefs and entrepreneurs can meet each other, and confront each other on a common ground. The 2015 edition will be held in Parma, in the heart of the Italian food valley, from 25 to 27 of May, 3 weeks away from the opening of Expo 2015, the Universal Exposition which will celebrate the world food in all its declinations and to which we ideally unite to glorify pizza. Let’s complete the conspectus of our activities saying that our passion for pizza and professional catering is completed by the work of the International School of Pizza, a private professional school born in late 80s in Italy. The school teaches newbies and professionals new methods and techniques. You will find more detailed information on our schools and education activities.

We wish you a joyful reading, and we invite you to follow us on the different editorial channels:

www.pizzaepastaitaliana.it

www.worldpizzachampionship.it

Please find, the Italian and English digital application available on Apple Store.


24째 CAMP MONDIAL PIZZA #24CMP #CMP15 MAY 25-26-27


PIONATO LE DELLA PALA– CASSA PARMA Registrations open for the following events:

ALL THE NUMBERS OF THE CHAMPIONSHIP: 12 events, 600 competitors from all over the world, 33 nations, 7 tons of pizza dough, 5 quintals of flour, 4 pounds of mozzarella, 3 tons of tomatoe, 9 ovens all working at the same time, only one Champion!

• Classic Pizza Rules and Regulations of the different events will be on-line starting from Dec.1st. • Pizza in the pan For further info, rules and details write to info@campionatomondialedellapizza.it • Pizza on the peel or visit the following website: www.campionatomondialedellapizza.it • STG - Neapolitan pizza or www.pizzaworldchampionship.com • Gluten free pizza Phone from Italy 0421 83148 • Pizza for two At the same time with International calls 0039 0421 83148 • Pizza Presentation • Heinz Beck Trophy “First Courses...in pizzeria” • The Largest All competitions • The Fastest will be valid also for the titles of • Single and Team Free Style Olimpizza


PIZZA WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP p. 12

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

edited by

Giampiero Rorato

The most important world level event around the world of pizza, conceived, promoted and organized by this Magazine and by its ownership, it will reach its 24th edition in the upcoming month of May. In its background, there is therefore a long, solid and nonstop tradition that every year has seen gathered as pizzaioli of every part of the world and, together with them, entrepreneurs of equipment and producers of raw material for pizzerias. Its first edition took place in 1990 in Castrocaro Terme, later on in Viareggio to finally move to Salsomaggiore Terme, all places enhanced at a world level by this event. The event, also wanted by many Italian cities for the enormous turnover it generates, for two years now it is held in Parma, European capital of food and wine, in the prestigious building of Palacassa, next to the Convention Center.

Therefore, this year, it will take place from 25 to 27 of May, with the attendance of many pizzaioli from all around Europe, from America, from North Africa, Asia and Australia.


p. 13

THE KNOWLEDGE This event, unique at international level, has also been designed for a series of reasons. Above all, pizza-bakers, who before were alone in their work, thanks to this magazine and to the World Pizza Championship have finally gained the chance to be introduced in an international network, where they can meet each other, exchange information, evaluate operating techniques, and extraordinary friendships were born, which bound pizzaioli form every continent.

The human aspect has gained and continues to gain a prominent importance and next to it, it has developed a new and modern culture of pizza that has allowed the many hundreds of pizza-makers registered to the event, and every year this some new, to have precious confrontations, deepen the knowledge of products and to learn more about new products and techniques on yeasts, dough mixes, fermentation and toppings.

This all represents the cultural and professional soul of the Pizza World Championship and thousands of pizza bakers who during the previews 23 years have taken part, and went home with a rich expertise that helped them to grow a lot.


p. 14

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

THE EVENT The most prominent aspect of the Pizza World Championship is represented by the different pizza events thought to enhance and valorize at best vocations and skills of participants and the list of the categories is enough to understand well the complexity of the event more in general.

Pizza-bakers compete, in other words, to conquer the title of Pizza World Champion in the following categories: Classic Pizza, Pizza in the pan, Pizza on the peel, Neapolitan STG pizza, Gluten free pizza, Pizza for two (pizzaiolo and chef), Artistic pizza, Heinz Beck Trophy (for first dishes made by chefs working in a pizzeria), the largest, the fastest, Single Free style, Team free style.

Therefore there are 12 specialities and to the World Pizza Championship around 600 competitors are admitted, selected through other exhibitions, among which the European Championship and Giropizza of Europe, that take place in the main European cities in occasion of the most important food exhibitions.

Until this moment, it has always been like this, and in the previews 23 editions also pizzaioli before unknown, confined in secluded areas, thanks to the winning and to the title of Pizza World Championship have obtained and continue to obtain those satisfactions and that economic success that continues to prolong along time.

These are all the many reasons for which the Pizza World Championship obtains a great success among pizza-bakers of the whole world, moves broadcasting stations and the press, attracting many food personalities, important journalists, famous artists and qualified equipment and food entrepreneurs who present the latest products to the launched on the market.

THE MEANING As you can clearly understand, pizzabakers who gain the podium during the great gala evening with the title of Pizza World Championship lure the interest of the media, press, tv both national and local, thus obtaining fame which translates into business success.


p. 16

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

TOWARD EXPO ILAN W

Pizza e Pasta Italiana helps its readers to better comprehend Expo Milan 2015, this great event will lure to Italy millions of people from all over the world.

by Giampiero Rorato


special expo 2015

In

a time when there still exists an incomprehensible and absurd difference between the inhabitants of the northern hemisphere, which for many years now have defeated hunger and, in many cases most of their food, and a great number of inhabitants of the southern hemisphere, yet the victims of hunger and malnutrition. There is a question that requires a solution that can no longer be postponed: would it be possible to ensure good, healthy, just and sustainable nutrition for all humanity?

p. 17

In order to answer this question, the different people of the world will meet in Milan from May 1st to October 31st insights, committed to responding to it in one of the most pressing questions of our time with concrete proposals that would indicate the paths capable of eradicating hunger in a reasonable time in the world, giving all men good, healthy, sufficient and sustainable food. To the event, organized and wished by Italy about 150 countries in every continent will take part.

illustrations

Pierluigi Longo


p. 18

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

SPECIAL EXPO 2015

FEEDING THE PLANET, ENERGY FOR LIFE

FOOD

This is the theme that Italy launched to the world. Expo Milan 2015 is absolutely a new and innovative Universal Exhibition which has never been experienced before. It is not just a very interesting exhibition, but also a major international event that calls the whole world to participate, able to get engaged actively and responsibly on a crucial theme, that is Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life. From May 1 to October 31, 2015, therefore right during EXPO, 184 days of events in an exhibition site developed in an area of o ​ ne million square meters to accommodate over 20 million visitors that are expected. There will really be, as claimed by the Italian Government, the Lombardy Region, the Municipality of Milan and numerous national and international bodies involved, a unique experience for participants and visitors. This is something worth a trip also from people living abroad, because during Expo Milan 2015 the history of the future will trace traced. And in Milan during those 184 days, there will be the whole world to learn, experience, dream, wonder, but above all to decide the guidelines for a policy to give shape to a future world development, which necessarily passes through the availability of healthy and good food for everyone.

Food is not only the first right for every person, the indispensable condition for the preservation of life. It is also the foundation of a healthy physical and mental development, and assurance of health and longevity. The extraordinary improvement in quality of life occurred during the last generation is definitely attributed to better nutrition, more functional to the real needs of the human body, rather than a more effective medicine. Having enough to eat is therefore also the premise of every type of individual emancipation and economic development. And healthy food, good enough should be available especially for children, who in many parts of the world continue to die at a very young age due to hunger and unhealthy food that causes numerous diseases. Eating, we all know it well, is also one of the great pleasures of life, accessible to all and to which everyone is entitled; a pleasure that should be enjoyed by all men and women who inhabit the planet and it is well known that traditional food is a mirror of our life that evolves with time and tells us who we are and what community we belong to. For all these reasons, food is really “Energy for Life”. But “to ensure to all mankind good, healthy, sufficient and sustainable nutrition,” as requested by the board of Expo 2015 is a huge challenge. Not only because of the numbers involved, but because of its many dimensions - scientific, technological, environmental, economic, political, social, cultural - are all connected to each other. These fascinating and complex issues will be the main topic of Expo Milan 2015 and this magazine will approach the big event in the coming months by presenting some of the topics that will be addressed, helping our readers understand the importance of Expo that will take in Italy, and not only in Milan, about twenty million people from all over the world, to accept that we have to be prepared in every corner of the peninsula.


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p. 20

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

4our interpretations of

pizza

W 

ith the recipes that you will find in this page and in the following pages we wished to render you the interpretations of four great pizza experts. Pizza is the most loved and known dish in the whole world. Two of them are Italians – Graziano Bertuzzo, technical director of Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli, multi-award winning expert of the sector and internationally known for his passion, professionalism and preparation. The second is Antonino Esposito, exponent of the well known Neapolitan school who looks at the entire world as outlet of his own food creations. The third is Tony Gemignani, skilled pizzaiolo based in San Francisco, success entrepreneur, multi-award winner and famous for his creations and passionate pizza lover so much as Theo Kalogerous, the fourth great interpreter that we are proposing, based in Australia and witness of how good pizza has no boundaries.


pizza champions

p. 21

In 1973 he started to approach the world of pizza acquiring along the years more and more experience. In 1979, pushed by the passion for this work, he bough together with his sister, Manuela, the pizza shop Brian, near Caorle – Venice. In 1984 he attended a course as Master Instructor at Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli (Caorle – Venice) where at present he is still teaching theory and practical work for basic courses and for advanced courses. Since 1985 he has starting tossing pizza for his pizza customers and from here Acrobatic Pizza and Free Style was born. In 1987 he created “the Acrobatic Patrol”, and since 2005 he is head of the acrobatic team “Pizza Shock Team”, made up by 5 people. He won several pizza prizes among which the European Pizza Championship, the World Pizza Championship in Salsomaggiore Terme and 2 times the World Pizza Games in Las Vegas.

1Bertuzzo Graziano “Adriatic Sea” Pizza For the dough: Mix of flours of 00 wheat with 330 W strength and hard grain semolina. Autolysis for about 1 hour Addition of dry yeast Addition of malt Addition of the rest of the water to get to 80% of the final dough Extravirgin olive oil and salt Baking time about 12-13 minutes on electric oven, temperature 280° Zucchini cream, shrimps, green asparagus as base; See weed or spinach upon choice; Sauted mussels with garlic and olive oil;. Octopus cooked in water with celery; Sauted prawns; After baking, fresh green apple; Lemon after baking; Mint or Valerian after baking.

“Under Forest” Pizza For the dough: Mix of flours of 00 wheat with 330 W strength and hard grain semolina. Autolysis for about 1 hour Addition of dry yeast Addition of malt Addition of the rest of the water to get to 80% of the final dough Extravirgin olive oil and salt Baking time about 12-13 minutes on electric oven, temperature 280° Porcini Mushroom Base; Sliced Buffalo Mozzarella DOP; Mix of different mushrooms cooked in olive oil, parsley and garlic;

Red Radicchio sauted with Merlot wine; Cherry tomatoes after cooking; Optional: pair with Mostarda (Italian preserved fruits).


p. 22

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

2Esposito Antonino

The Maestro Antonino Esposito was born in Sorrento in the early 70s. Antonino Esposito was raised in this territory and here he has perfected his taste for great food. Like all personalities, his career, which will coincide with his passion, comes from an accidental fact. Some thirty years ago, an uncle of Antonino asks him to help him out in his pizza shop because his pizzaiolo left. Antonino knows nothing about pizza but he is willing to work, this was the beginning of a life long love. Since then the Neapolitan Maestro came a long way. He opens his pizzeria at the beginning of the early 90s and later on he patents a new type of pizza, Frusta Sorrentina, which wins a second place at Las Vegas Pizza Games and which is sold all around the world. In 2010, he opens a pizzeria in the center of Sorrento, named “Ahum”. In 2007 starts working on Tv, with the program, Pizza che passione! and afterwords is the turn of the program “Piacere, pizza!” on Alice.tv whereas at the moment always on Alice, Master Pizza. In 2008 he takes part to the 18th World Pizza Championship, placing second in the category classic pizza.

Pizza e Pasta This recipe is devoted to the magazine Pizza e Pasta Italiana

Recipe: 2 dough balls of pizza dough of 250 gr, 40 gr of tagliatelle with pumpkin, pecorino cheese, 30 gr of mozzarella, 40 gr of tomato sauce

Boil pasta, in a pan with a small quantity of olive oil and onion, add pre-boiled pumpkin and finish with nutmeg. Cook pasta al dente. Afterwards sauté tagliatelle in a pan, adding Pecorino Cheese. Open the two dough balls and in one add a bit of olive oil and afterwards tagliatelle, covering all up with the other disk of dough, lightly pinched with a fork. Cover on the surface with tomato sauce and mozzarella, place in the oven at about 330° for about 3 – 4 minutes. Once ready, cut in small portions and serve with olive oil and Parmesan Cheese.


3Gemignani Tony

Purple Potato and Pancetta

1 parbaked Sicilian Dough; 4 ounces (115 grams) small purple potatoes (about 3), about 1-1/2 inches in diameter; 3 ounces (85 grams) sliced smoked pancetta; 10 ounces (285 grams) whole-milk mozzarella cheese, shredded (2-1/2 cups); 1 tablespoon (9 grams) minced garlic; Olive oil, for drizzling if needed; 2-ounce (55-gram) piece feta cheese, preferably water-packed Greek; 1 teaspoon (2 grams) finely chopped fresh rosemary; 3/4 cup (120 grams) Basil Pesto at room temperature. Makes one 12 by 18-inch pizza; 12 squares. This nontraditional Sicilian is my own creation, and it’s a big seller at my takeout Slice House. The purple potatoes need to soak for a full hour to remove some of their starch, so start them soaking when you preheat the oven. They’ll get a bit paler as they cook, but they still add a cool splash of color. For this pizza, I like smoked pancetta, a northern Italian specialty also known as pancetta affumicata. It’s a bit harder to find than regular pancetta, which is cured but not smoked. Smoked pancetta is fully cooked and has a mild, sweet-smoky flavor. It doesn’t crisp when it bakes on top of the pizza. Buy it sliced, like bacon, and freeze the slices for about 20 minutes to make cutting it easier. If you can’t find it, substitute a good thick-cut smoked bacon.

p. 23

Gemignani has had a passion for the pizza industry since 1991. His humble beginnings began at his brother’s acclaimed Pyzano’s Pizzeria in Castro Valley. Fresh out of high school, Tony took on the task of a pizza thrower and soon began entertaining the restaurant crowds with his wily tricks. A few years later, he entered into his first pizza throwing competition in Las Vegas and quickly became the top pizza thrower in the world. Since his days at his brother’s pizzeria, Gemignani has received a number of accolades for his impressive pizza making and throwing skills. He is president of the World Pizza Champions; the first and only Triple Crown winner for baking at the International Pizza Championships in Lecce, Italy; and, his most prestigious title to date, the 2007 World Champion Pizza Maker at the World Pizza Cup in Naples, Italy, where he was the first American and non-Neapolitan victor. Gemignani also received his Master credentials from the Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli and is the proprietor of the International School of Pizza where he certifies chefs from around the world. His most impressive accolade to date is being named the official U.S. Ambassador of Neapolitan Pizza by the city of Naples, a prestigious title only given to three people in the entire world. In 2011 and 2012 Tony won two world titles in cooking, making him an 11 time world champion. In 2014, Tony released The Pizza Bible, the definitive book on pizza. Tony was also inducted into the Guinness Book of World Records three times two for creating the largest pizza, as well as the most consecutive rolls across the shoulders, a unique throwing trick which involves rolling the pizza dough along the back of the shoulders.


ITALIAN LEADER

Since 1831 Agugiaro & Figna Mills, coming from a long tradition of two families who, for 6 generations have been associated with milling, is the italian leader in pizza industry. To be present in a global market, Agugiaro & Figna Mills has been investing in technology and in innovation since many years, succeeding in creating a wide range of innovative and specialized products to complement the traditional ones, offering a specic item for each nal destination. The selection of the most valuable wheats all over the world is guarantee of an excellent blending and savour: thanks to an accurate milling process, strict analyses and historical know-how, Agugiaro & Figna Mills is offering to its customers a constant top quality production, suitable both for small bakeries and for the biggest world-wide international industries.

THE WELL-KNOWN BRAND LE 5 STAGIONI IS ITALIAN LEADER : AND SEMI-FINISHED PRODUCTS FOR PIZZA, BECOMING ITALIAN

Stone milled ours, Biological ours and gluten free products are completing the wide range of proposals, paying attention to the last and most peculiar necessities of the market.

LEADER OF THIS SEGMEN T OF THE MARKET.

This original variety of products is constantly updated with new pro-

Tradition and innovation are joined together, offering an unforgettable

posals thanks to the tireless activity of its Research and Development

selection. Other ours and semi-nished products for bakery (MAG 98 range) and pastry (LE SINFONIE range) are enriching the offer of Agugiaro and Figna Mills, responding to the needs of the most exigent pro-

dept.: the mills’ laboratories are equipped with the most sophisticated

fessional bakers, confectioners and pastry chefs.

lied experts are always at disposal of the customers for suggestions

SINCE 1985 IT HAS BEEN OFFER ING A WIDE RANGE OF FLOURS

test instruments and maschines as to permit a daily chemical and physical quality control of raw materials and of the nal production. Very quaand advices on the most different topics, guaranteeing an excellent result in any occasion.

THE MOST COMPLETE RANGE FOR PIZZA FLOURS IN THE WORLD, TO BE FOUND ON

WWW.LE5STAGIONI.IT

Certications:

Doppia Pagina istituzionale 2015.indd 2

08/01/15 11:02


THE CONTINUAL RE SEARCH AND THE PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMEN T ARE ESSENTIAL INGREDIENTS FOR AGUGIARO AND FIGNA MILLS: THANSK TO NEW TECHNIQUE S, NEW PRODUCTS HAVE BEEN DEVELOPED SUCH AS DRIED MOTHER YEAST POWDER NATURKRAFT. This is obtained through a spontaneous fermentation of a dough left to rise several times before the right level of acidity is reached.The result

is a dried product which guarantees an excellent rising process of the dough, a crispy, fragrant and extremely tasty pizza, where the avours of the tradition are obtained thanks to new most innovative technology. A wide variety of pizza and bread mixes are excellent proposals for having products with soja, rice, barley, spelt and other cereals, suitable for every taste of the nal consumer: thanks to this diversied assortment, everyone can enjoy best quality pizzas, breads and pastries.

AGUGIARO AND FIGNA MILLS ARE WITH NO DOUB T ITALIAN LEADER DUE TO ITS WIDE RANGE OF FLOURS AND SEMI-FINISHED PRODUCTS. But that’s not all: Agugiaro and Figna Mills is present in all European markets (such as France, Germany, UK or Spain) and in many other strategical countries all over the world (USA, Brazil, Japan and South Africa), constantly winning a big success.

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08/01/15 11:02


p. 26

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pizza e pasta italiana

4Kalogeracos Theo Puttanesca 1 basic pizza dough ball – rolled, rested & ready 1 teaspoon garlic, finely chopped 90g mozzarella, grated 80g marinated sardines (I use Fremantle sardines) 1 teaspoon baby capers 30g olives, split in half seed taken out 8 cherry tomatoes, halved 2 tablespoons pizza sauce Pinch of salt ½ teaspoon dried chilli flakes 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 lemon, cut into wedges Pre-heat oven to 220ºC Spread the garlic over the pizza base and then top with mozzarella. Place sardines around the pizza, sprinkle capers and olives and place cherry tomato halves evenly. Drizzle pizza sauce over and add salt, chilli and oregano. Cook for 7 to 10 minutes When ready, cut up and serve with lemon wedges.

Born and raised in Perth, Western Australia, Theo Kalogeracos is a multi‐award‐winning pizza chef. For 17 years, he has run Little Caesars Pizzeria www.littlecaesarspizzeria.com.au, in the Perth hills. The restaurant has become such an icon that many customers take the 50 minute drive from the city to enjoy the award‐winning food and atmosphere. In recent years he has opened two additional restaurants, one on the northern beaches of Perth and the other inner‐city. Over the years, Kalogeracos has taken out a number of awards for his pizza making, on the world scale, with some of his titles including his most recent, 2013 World Champion Master Maker, 2010 World Champion Pizza Maker, 2006 Las Vegas Italian Chef Wars Winner, 2004 member of Dairy Farmers Team Oz that won the America’s Plate and 2003 Australian. His books The Search for the Perfect Pizza and The Search for the Perfect Pizza.


Pizza products - Snacks, tarts, sauces, cured meats and cheese - Catering products, high quality food, distributed for more than 30 years are the warranty of the competence of Sanfelici company. Respecting the best Quality standards, Sanfelici entrusts highly specialized companies for the production of its products, able to control the raw materials, that will be trasformed into great gastronomic products distributed by Sanfelici directly to restaurants, bars, trattoria and pizzeria. The esponential growth of the last years underline the succes of our company, offering the best quality and price. The Sanfelici strives to promote every day the Italian quality of food and beverage in the world. The continuous reasearch and the accurate selection of the products are the key to success.

Headquater and Showroom Via Tadesa, 2/A - San Fermo di Piubega (MN) 46040 - Italy T: +39 0376 655737 F: +39 0376 655014 www.sanfelici.it


p. 28

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

DON

ALFONSO 1898

THE WONDERFUL RESTAURANT LOCATED IN SANT’AGATA SUI DUE GOLFI, THAT MADE THE FINE DINING OF THE SOUTH OF ITALY GREAT IN THE WORLD

edited by Giampiero Rorato


the restaurant

p. 29

THE BEGINNING

T

rying to introduce this extraordinary restaurant, placed in one of the most wonderful places in the world, to our readers spread around the globe, is not a simple task, because the story that we are about to tell is rich and complex and completely new for a restaurant of the South of Italy. This story starts in 1890, when Alfonso Costanzo Iaccarino, Alfonso’s grandfather, after difficult years as an immigrant in the USA, returns to his homeland, Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi, to give birth to a hotelrestaurant, without knowing that he was throwing the basis for one of the most renown restaurants in the world. The state of normality, let’s call it like this, lasted for 75 years, until when, in 1973, the first Alfonso, the nephew took the reins of the family business, who with his wife Livia shared new and ambitious projects. Alfonso

Initially, the cooking proposed by the Iaccarino couple is apparently simple, based on local products, vegetable, meat, fish, and it is taken care of with great love and professionalism, accompanied by the excellent wine of Campania and made rich using the precious olive oil produced in the peninsula and then there is fruit and above all citrus fruit of a land blessed by the sky. Here lays the first great intuition of the young Alfonso, who fully understands that the great cooking comes from serious, genuine and good products and the Sorrento Peninsula is full of it. In the 70s Alfonso is a pioneer, a true innovator, and in the same years Angelo Paracucchi puts into action a very similar project with “Locanda dell’Angelo” in Ameglia, in the far eastern corner of Liguria, just like Gianni Cosetti does in his restaurant in Tolmezzo – Carnia.

and Livia Iaccarino start looking at the environment, which surrounds them. Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi – that of Naples and Salerno – is a quaint village on the romantic Sorrentine Peninsula, it is a magic place, with an enchanting and generous nature and all around the sea with dazzling colours. Don Alfonso Restaurant is located in an exclusive area in the heart of the Sorrento peninsula and along the Amalfi Coast where enchanting landscapes enclose the sky, land and sea, offering unforgettable views in every season. Around Sant’Agata there are lemon trees, vineyards, vegetable gardens, olive trees, immerged in the Mediterranean bush, where one is able to find a pleasing climate throughout the whole year. There are savage spots, still uncontaminated, a good itinerary for revitalizing walks and the generous sea that gives everyday excellent fish.

left

exterior picture of the restaurant on the page to the left

Capri seen from Peracciola


p. 30

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

THE RESTAURANT

THE EVOLUTION Using local products, Alfonso, just like an ancient magician, takes out smells and tastes, enhancing a cooking that becomes day by day more important. This cooking comes from love and devotion to the land, the products, for the charm of a job that is translated into the joyful discovery of the dining companions, every time fascinated by flavours and tastes that talk about the magic of a fantastic land. The fame of the restaurant that in the name recalls Alfonso Costanzo, the founder and the year in which the cooking adventure started, it spreads out and gourmands from every corner of Europe and of the whole world come to his place to meet a true and satisfying cooking. Donna Livia, the great, intelligent and refined lady of the restaurant, is there to welcome the guests. She welcomes every guest as a prince, served at the table with a discrete and refined intelligence, never intrusive. This should always happen, this is how you get a great cooking. Alfonso and Livia Iaccarino have achieved a lot

more than just giving birth to a great restaurant. They have been the pioneers of a new way of cooking in the South of Italy, the first to believe and to enhance the local products, the first to get in a classy environment, a refined Mediterranean cooking, capable of competing as for quality, elegance, service with the greatest and most celebrated French cuisine. In the wake of their work, many other restaurants are born, starting from the Sorrento Peninsula, nowadays full with great restaurants, later on in Apulia, Basilicata and Sicily. The Iaccarino family has to be given credit that the best cooking is the genuine cooking based on products of the territory and of seasonality, naturally enhanced and improved with knowledge and seriousness.

TOWARDS THE FUTURE At the end of the last century, in 1999, Livia and Alfonso had the help of their sons Ernesto and Mario, who once out of college, have welcomed with joy the invitation from their parents, creating the Don Alfonso Consulting & Distribution, to spread the

message elaborated along the years by their parents. It is the realization of restaurant consulting, that takes care of the distribution in the world of Don Alfonso products, it organizes international cooking events and gives consultancies. And this can be done, because they are backed by one of the best restaurants in Italy, a farm in Punta Campanella, a 40 year long

experience, but above all the knowledge, the constancy, the determination of two people of main characters of the international cooking world. Livia and Don Alfonso are real ambassadors of good taste, of seriousness of the Italian cooking. These are people who the whole world envies us but that we keep tight, convinced that with men and women like this we can overcome hard times.


recipes

p. 31

For 4 servings

LIGHTLY SEARED TUNA WITH PINK PEPPER, MASHED BEANS AND ONION SAUCE RED PEPPER (Cold Appetizer)

400 g tuna fillet 15 g orange rind 10 g lemon rind 1 l white wine 5 dl white wine vinegar 50 g coarse salt maizena 5 g sweet and sour ginger 10 g mixed spice 8 g pink pepper 16 mint leaves

For the mashed beans 200 g of peeled beans 20 g extra virgin olive oil 30 g onion 20 g carrots 1 clove of garlic 5 g orange and wild fennel 1 lemon 50 g of red onion sauce

Slices of tuna fillet of 3-4 cm in diameter, sprinkle them with coarse salt and let them rest for 30-40 minutes. After resting, take the salt out of the fillets under running water, then immerge them in a tent compound with 1 litre of wine, half a litre of vinegar and 10 g of mixed spices. Prepare a mixture with the orange rind and lemon, pink pepper and Mint. Remove the fillets from the tent and fouls pass into chopped oranges and lemon, then Sear in pan fouls on both sides for a few seconds.

FOR THE MASHED BEANS Spice up the oil with the garlic for a few minutes, then add the carrot and onion cut into small pieces. Is toast and add the beans (which you’ve previously put to soak overnight). Brown and cover with water to finish cooking. Once cooked, drain – retaining water in a pot, and review them in a pan with a little olive oil, garlic, wild fennel, the grated an orange and a lemon. Blend everything, add a dash of oil and adjust salt. Preparation of the dish: Lay the mashed beans in the middle of the plate and add the slices of tuna as a fan. Garnish all with mint leaves and sauce with red onion sauce, add 3 sliced ginger in sweet and sour sauce that you’ve previously done with corn flour and fry.


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p. 34

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pizza e pasta italiana

RECIPES

For 4 servings

RIGATONI VESUVIO

260 g rigatoni 50 g peas 250 g mozzarella 200 g tomato sauce (see recipe of Don Alfonso) 60 g minced pork 30 g 60 g breadcrumbs with milk 50 basil leaves 50 g extra virgin olive oil 15 g onion 2 whole eggs Salt

Prepare meatballs with bread soaked in milk, 1 egg, salt and pepper and let it fry in olive oil. Boil 30 basil leaves and let it blend with a little oil, then cook an end in chinois. Cool 40 g of milk and add 70 g of finely chopped mozzarella, and bake in a Bain-Marie, blend and then does switch to the chinois. Blows the peas with browned onions. Cut the mozzarella finely. Cook another egg to 7 m in boiling water. Cook the rigatoni for 3 m and creamed with one half of the tomato ragout and half the Basil. Compose a timbale in a tinfoil container about 8 cm with macaroni, peas, egg, mozzarella, meatballs and Basil (I recommend the mozzarella, place at the bottom of the timbale and on top, to hold the whole thing). Cook for 14 m in the oven at 160 degrees. Finished product and lay down on the plate, finish with the remaining tomato ragout sauce, mozzarella and basil sauce, basil leaves and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

For 4 servings

DON ALFONSO’S TOMATO SAUCE

13.7 g pork loin 13.7 g pork ribs 2 slices of bread 0.7 cl red aged vinegar 0.2 cloves of garlic 1.4 g chopped parsley 2.7 g pine nuts 2.7 g raisins 3.4 g onion 0.7 cl extra virgin olive oil 0.7 cl white wine 136.5 grams of tomato sauce salt

Prepare 4 Pork Chops with the loin beaten up to a thickness of about 3 mm, rolling up with dry raisins, pine nuts, parsley and chopped garlic and a pinch of salt. Wet the bread slices in vinegar, lightly and take water out of them and then brown in olive oil, then remove them from the pan. In the same pan, brown the ribs, the pork rolls and a whole onion that should be removed as it browns. Add the tomatoes, San Marzano tomatoes and let simmer and continue for about two hours and a quarter.


recipes

SMALL LUCANO GOAT WITH MEDITERRANEAN HERBS

For 4 servings Ingredients: 600 g goat 6 cl evo 40 g goat broth mixed mashed herbs 40 g beans eggs 1 onion 40 g early potatoes Roast the goat in a pan and complete the cooking in the oven for 5 minutes. As you take it out of the oven let it rest, then crumble it with the herbs. Cut up the goat, whip the broth of herbs and olive oil. Slowly bake the patatoes, the onions and the beans in a panm add salt. Place the goat on the serving plate with potatoes, onion and beans, pour the sauce and decorate with fresh herbs.

p. 35


p. 38

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

RECIPES

CONCERT OF FLAVOURS AND LEMON SCENT

For 4 servings

Preparation

4 lemon

6 dl lemon juice 40 g of syrup

lemon cream

400 g cream 200 g milk 200 g yogurt 14 egg yolks 120 g sugar the grated 4 lemon for cream puffs

1 dl of water 100 g flour 00 50 g butter 2 whole eggs for the lemon sauce

200 g pastry cream base

the cream for cream puffs

300 g of custard base preparation the grated lemon peel 2 for the lemon caramel

8 cl lemon juice 40 g sugar 16 g of honey

for the lemon pancakes

8 egg yolks i 160 g flour 00 260 g of beer 8 egg whites 8 lemons

Cream puffs in a pan, boil water. Add the butter and a pinch of salt, slowly incorporates the flour and mix vigorously until the dough comes off the bottom of the pot. Leave then rest, waiting until the mixture is warm. Once declined, add egg yolks, taking care to embed one per volt. (Wait for the former are thoroughly mixed the dough before adding the next). Pour the mixture into a pastry bag and a plate lined with parchment paper, forms many small balls about 2 cm in diameter. Fires at 180°, with an oven hot already, for about 5 minutes. Lemon cream to boil the milk with the cream and grated rind of two lemons. Whisk the egg yolks with sugar and yogurt and dissolves slowly in milk, before slightly cool. Stir constantly until a custard consistency (the temperature for the crème anglaise is about 84° C)

Lemon sauce Blend 200 g pastry cream with 6 dl lemon juice and 40 g of syrup.

Cream for cream puffs Working 300 g pastry cream with grated rind of two lemons.

Lemon caramel Reduce a caramel lemon juice with sugar and honey.

Lemon pancakes Separates Final preparation Cut the top cap of 10 lemons, completely take the inner part out, the juicer pulp, filter it, pour in a pan, add 80 g sugar and simmer until syrupy consistency. Garnish lemons flushed with lemon cream and available at the center of the dishes. Garnish fritters with lemon-scented custard remained and put them alongside the lemon filled. Garnish lemon with a pancake, a zest and a leaf of lemon, add the lemon sauce and syrup and serve decorated with caramelized sugar.


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p. 40

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

The

Restaurant “Il Desco� in Verona A historical place that enhances the fine food and wine culture of the city of Romeo and Juliet


p. 41

V 

erona is not only the Italian city that becomes in summer the first reference point for music lovers from around the world, attracted by the spectacular opera performances in the spaces of the truly unique ancient Arena, built in the Augustan period, exactly two thousand years ago. Nor is it only the city that nostalgically recalls the tragic story of love of Romeo and Juliet, attracting lovers in every season of every continent here joyfully renew their sweet and keep promises. Verona because, besides being a beautiful city, harmoniously grown on the banks of the Adige and crossed by the consular Postojna, a city rich in history and archeology, is a modern and vibrant cultural center, industrial and healthcare, meeting point between Veneto, Lombardy, Emilia Romagna and Trentino Alto Adige and is a city of refined tourism, next to the Riviera of the Olives, which is mirrored on Lake Garda and the green hills of Valpolicella, Valpantena and Lessinia where wines overtime known and apreciated and, above all, the Amarone. And around the city produces other great wines, Bardolino, Lugana, Custoza, Soave, Valdadige and Recioti that the world envies.

Verona is really one of the most important and meaningful cities of Italy, also known for its high gastronomy, forming with Brescia and Mantova one of the most renowned food and wine reference points in the world.


p. 42

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

Today the spearhead town restaurant is represented by some restaurants historians as “The Twelve Apostles” or as the new Perbellini in Piazza San Zeno. On this occasion, however, I wish to present another restaurant is directed by Elia Rizzo, “Il Desco”, which is based in via Dietro San Sebastiano continuation of a tradition of excellence that is born far away in time. In Verona, as who visited this extraordinary city knows, is rich not only the well-known Arena but also many important finds of Roman and medieval times and there is always love for good food. In this city with a European, meeting points between the Central European tradition and the Mediterranean, Elia Rizzo hath been inserted like a pro, with grace, tenacity and great seriousness, starting from the products of the territory and the home kitchen, honing it always more, widening horizons, elevating Verona’s cultural and international values. Elia understood from a young age and made his signs and basic values of a modern haute cuisine: the prestigious location, a warm and hospitable, and accurate service while polite and discreet, wines of high level and of course, beautiful dishes, able to excite. Elia Rizzo, supported by his wife and his talented collaborators, has taken immediately, with courage and consistency, the way of a catering service to further qualify the city, throwing it in the Olympus of the great capitals of haute cuisine, deserving no difficulty Michelin stars. He has joined his son Matteo, another beautiful expression of real, solid and modern food culture. Matteo grew up in the kitchen, the aromas and flavors and, at the same time, he wanted to understand how the other great cuisines of the world, making interesting dining experiences and life in major restaurants in Europe and America, then to return home, next to the parents and to the efficient brigade Il Desco.

Even Matteo, like his father, he believes in the products of the territory and in Verona there are many starting with the rice Vialone nano and then olives and olive oil, among the best in the world, the asparagus of Arcole and Rivoli, the Lower Veronese cabbage, potatoes golden land of red Guà, radicchio red Verona, celeriac and then strawberries, cherries, apples, pears, chestnuts, mushrooms, bogoni Cimbri, the fish of the Garda and mountain streams, Monte Veronese, the Stracon and other interesting excellent cheeses of Lessinia and Baldo, the tasty salami of ancient tradition, as well as the cod in Lofoten and the fish of the northern Adriatic, acting out centuries of Veronese cuisine.

above

Some rooms of the restaurant below

Il Desco has a kitchen mature knows how to transform local products, not just those in gourmet dishes, working them with love within the rules, enhancing the flavors, playing on outstanding amounts and on combinations, preferring to each dish a few ingredients, creating color palettes net, precise flavors, tastes rewarding. Il Desco is a place so high cuisine, one of the finest expressions, enjoyed and appreciated the great Italian restaurants, but, as stated in Matteo, is also a kitchen young, fun, more attentive to the real substance that label, which while not missing dishes and the most beautiful and valuable tradition were added those vegetarians and vegans, to meet the demands of an international clientele who knows that in this restaurant you exit always satisfied.

Elia and his son Matteo

edited by Giampiero Rorato


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p. 44

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

Recipe

Potato soup with caramelized saffron onions and oyster leave

Ingredienti — 50 grams of potato soup (1 leek, 3 potatoes, vegetable broth); 25 grams of caramelized onions with saffron; 10 grams of extra virgin olive oil;

Recipe — Cut the potatoes and leeks into pieces, brown them in a pan with a little olive oil, sprinkle with vegetable broth and cook. Blend very well until you get a thick cream. Caramelized leek cooking it with sugar, water and saffron.

4 leaves of oyster leaf; salt and pepper

Serve the cream into a bowl, garnish with onions and oyster leaf.


p. 45

Porcini mushrooms with thyme, physalis sause and peaches salad Ingredienti — 1 porcini mushroom (from Lessinia mountains ,Verona. 40 gr); a sprig of thyme; 2 tablespoons sauce physalis (100 gr physalis, 20 gr mustard, 20 gr sugar, olive oil, salt); 1 yellow peach; rocket and songino;

a spoonful of crispy bread; few drops of raspberry vinegar, a few drops of balsamic vinegar; 20 grams of extra virgin olive oil; salt and pepper.

Recipe — Prepare the sauce in a saucepan cooking for 5 minutes over high heat: physalis, sugar, oil and mustard. Blend very well and season with salt and pepper. Filter to get a smooth sauce. Cut the mushrooms into 4 pieces, brown them in a pan with a little olive oil

for a few minutes, seasoning them with fresh thyme. Prepare the salad with arugula, songino, peaches deprived from skin and cutted into small pieces, crusty bread. Serve the mushrooms seasoning them with the physalis sauce and garnish with insaltina.


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p. 48

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pizza e pasta italiana

Ricetta

Coconut soup, caramelized banana and pineapple sorbet Ingredienti — 30 grams of coconut soup (2 coconuts, 2 gr Xanthan gum); 25 grams of caramelized babana; 25 gr of sorbet (300 g of pineapple, peeled and cut into small pieces, 50 g glucose, 50 g sugar); salt and pepper; Roasted and salted cashews;

Recipe — Shell the coconut and cut it into small pieces, centrifuge to create a smooth cream, strain and season with sugar. (add xanthan gum and blend to obtain thikness if needed) Prepare the sorbet: blend the pineapple with glucose and sugar, filter and mount the sorbet machine.

Cut the peeled banana into small slices and caramelize with brown sugar. Prepare the dish by placing the base two tablespoons of coconut cream, caramelized banana in the middle and in the end a quenelle of sorbet well chilled. Garnish with cashews around the sorbet and decorate with a sprig of fresh mint.


p. 50

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pizza e pasta italiana

Pasta Italian pasta is a high quality product requested in the whole world

I

by Giampiero Rorato

t has been amply demonstrated that Made in Italy pasta has no other like it in the world. The refined and tested production technique and the century long experience of the producing companies, to which the charactheristics of the production places are added and the quality of water and that of flour used assure to Italian pasta that quality primate that makes it wanted by all food conosseurs around the world, by ĂŠlite restaurants, from North America to Australia, from Brasil to Russia like anywhere else in the world. The charactetristics before listed (expertise of producers, producing techniques, quality of ingredients) are sufficient to qualify the Italian pasta and make it preferable to any other. It is true that even abroad people start slowly preferring it, cooking it and saucing it like in Italy.


fresh pasta

Italian grain

There is another aspect of Italian pasta that is better to know and I refer to past produced with Italian flour, such as the ancient Khorasan or Iranian origin, always cultivated in Lucania, in Sannio and in Abruzzo and its brother Saragolla, both finally in great expansion, Senatore Cappelli, a type of grain obtained in 1915 starting from the Tunisian variety “Jeanh Rhetifah”, from the Italian most prominent agricultural genetist Nazareno Strampelli (1866 – 1942), who produced also the varieties “Mentana”, “Villa Glori” and “Damiano Chiesa” which descend directly, just like “Ardito”, obtained in 1913, from the cross between “Rieti” and “Akakomugi” (Japanise grain), grain obtained during the last 20 years. “The encouraging results coming from new varieties, has written the food technologist Simona Lauri, very soon gave and in very few hectares, autochthonous wheat and producers saw the commercialization of their products decrease more and more. Drawn by the great success of genetics engineering, University Institutions confined the cultivation of older varieties in reduced areas, for the reproduction of plants to be used only as examples for comparisons with the latest varieties.” In recent years, the student of Nazareno Stampelli, Cirillo Maliani, created a variety of grain named after his teacher , “Nazareno Stampelli” and other students of the famous geneticist continued his work, some of them became famous, among them Roberto Forlari, Alviero Dionigi and Cirillo Maliani. Sicilian public institutions, ENEA, Federconsorzi and the Experimental Institute for grain growth took on his work after the war following his operating schemes.

In 1950 his name was given to the Genetics Institute and Agricultural Experimentation in Lonigo in the province of Vicenza, that conserves in its bank of genoplasma the heritage of ancient Italian grains (above all wheat and corn). We recalled all this because, at present the will to rediscover old grains is felt to obtain with them 100% Italian pasta, bread, cookies and cakes, enhancing a history and culture that has to equal in the world, even if these are all small cultivations, because the Italian grain is not sufficient to meet the needs of the national market.(1313-1375), who, in the third eighth day news mentions ravioli describing the land of plenty: “... naught but did make macaroni and ravioli, and boil them ...”. In the fifteenth century tortellini and ravioli are to be found in cookbooks almost throughout the country.

p. 51


p. 52

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

FRESH PASTA

In Italy pasta was introduced by Greeks more than 2500 years ago (“laganon” means lasagne), used by Romans (“laganum”), who once lasagne were packaged, naturally fresh, fried them in oil, afterwards Arabs arrived and they spread the use of dry pasta, and since then, the production grew more and more and pasta became food. It is also true that, both the Greek and the Arab influx made of pasta an important dish above all in the South of Italy (but also in Liguria) where many artisanal producing activities were created (e.g. Gragnano Pasta factory, in Campania), afterwards starting from last century, great pasta companies arouse all over Italy ( e.g. Barilla in Emilia-Romagna; Zara in Veneto).

Italian pasta Years ago, Cesare Marchi, the writer from Verona, stated that: “Ours more than people is a collections of different people. But when lunch time comes, seated in front a plate of spaghetti, the inhabitants of the peninsula call them Italians...not even the military service, the universal suffrage (not to mention the fiscal duty) exert an equal unifying power. The unification of Italy, dreamed by the fathers of Renaissance, today it is called pasta.” And Italy has adopted, not only rice (above all in the North), but also pasta and this is confirmed by the numerous recipe books which are sold in the book shops and by many tv programs where at any time of the day, there is someone showing how to make home made pasta, how to cook it and how to sauce it. There is a great choice, both fresh and dry, simple and filled ( tortellini, cappelletti, agnolotti, ravioli, ecc) and this is the reason why Cesare Marchi was definitely right, Italians love pasta, also because Italian pasta, prepared according to the Italian tradition, is the best of the world.

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p. 54

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

THE FLOURS

Dott.ssa Alessia Pagotto Technologist

From grain to flour Quality is the goal

“Quality is mandatory because this is what makes the difference, between a product that is controlled and one that is not controlled.”

 C

ereals have always been known as essential elements for human food resource and in the country of the Mediterranean diet where the culture of pasta and bread plays a big role, wheat plays the part of the lion.

This cereal is part of the family of Graminacee and to the Triticum type, of which we can find different species, two of which have a great importance from their marketing point of view, in other words soft grain (Triticum Aestivum), that has soft and crumbly grains and hard grain (Triticum Durum) characterized by hard and glassy grains. From the milling of soft grain, farmed in the center north of Italy, it is obtained soft and white flours used for the production of bread, pizza and cakes, whereas from the from the milling of wheat of hard grain, farmed in the center south of Italy, it is obtained yellow rough grain flour that is used mainly for the preparation of pasta. For the production of these flours the Italian mills don’t mill exclusively the national grains (exception for the grain is certified as Italian), but they collect also other grain both EU or non EU. The purchase of grains is necessary when the mill is not able to find Italian grains with precise technological traits, this is the case for Manitoba grain (cultivated in Canada) or for North Spring (cultivated in USA) particularly recommended for the production of strong flours with a high content of gluten and high of a certain type of flour).“Good flours are obtained from good grains”, this is why mills know that stocking a good raw material is a crucial step, that affects all the following productions. It is of vital importance to choose the best grains, both national and foreign, so that the legal requirement and the needs of the market are always met.


p. 55

Technically, once wheat arrives at the mill, its transport conditions – by ship or by truck -must be verified. The person in charge of unloading the goods must make sure of the adequate health conditions of the transport and the possible usage of fumigants and pesticides must be reported and later on a sample of the goods must be taken and analyzed by the quality check laboratory both on a sanitary and on a market point of view (for a technical in depth analysis please read table 1, 2). Once all these preliminary checks are

1

overcome, wheat is suitable to be unloaded and hince it can start its transformation process. The following phases of accepting the raw material are crucial and this is why the quality control must be coordinated with the production responsible to verify that the implemented system constantly meets a proper standard level. Every day flour going out from the mill undergoes this complex process, which is necessary to grant final consumer that high level of food quality that identifies healthy and safe products and the techno-

logical quality that defines their destination of use. As a matter of fact a certain type of flour that proves to be excellent to make cookies is more than likely not used to make panettone, as much as a very strong flour that produces rigid dough mixes cannot be used when making pizza. Only through dedication, research, professionalism and the collaboration among different roles within a company, quality thought as the right balance between food safety and technological value can be reached.

Evaluation of commercial wheat quality

parameters examined equipment

method used

WEIGHT ELECTROLYTIC

Grain weigh station.

PROTEIN CONTENT

NIR analyzer and Kjeldahl method.

QUALITY PROTEIN

Index sedimentation: Test for soft wheat and Zeleny sedimentation test in sds for durum wheat.

CONTENT IN GLUTEN

Glutomatic

INDEX OF GLUTEN (gluten quality)

Gluten index,: Currency mass gluten passing through a small sieve after centrifugation and Glutograph, evaluates the time of torsional strength of the gluten.

QUANTITY 'OF AMYLASE

Index drop Hagberd (falling number) and Amilografo

PROPERTY 'RHEOLOGICAL Analysis to be carried out after preparation and grinding grain.

Alveograph Chopin: W (force), P (toughness), L (extensibility) Brabender farinograph: water absorption, development time, stability, capable of dropping or softening.


p. 56

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pizza e pasta italiana

THE FLOURS

2

Verification of conformity hygiene health grain

requirements methods

analysis tools

Suitable cleaning of means of transport. Presence of cereal passport. Check the analysis of the supplier. No visible signs of mould. Absence of foreign odors / abnormal. Lack of biological traces from weeds. Lack of foreign bodies.

VISUAL and ODOR.

Control of moisture.

ANALYZER NIR (near infrared spectrophotometer) and THERMOBALANCE (loss of weight (in%) suffered the product dried at 130째 C).

Analysis of mycotoxins. (DON, Aflatoxins, Zearalenone, Fumonisins and Ochratossina).

KIT QUICK (toxin-antibody reaction with color change of the reference band) and HPLC (chromatographic technique that detects the peaks corresponding to the sample solution if present).

Microbiological analyzes. (Total bacterial count, coliforms, enterobacteria, molds, yeasts, Salmonella, Listeria, staphylococcal toxins).

CULTURE MEDIA Petrifilm and selective for the organism to be found (after inoculation of the food matrix and the incubation temperature / optimal time, the number of colonies formed are counted). (*) For food matrix is to be considered the champion of ground wheat and prepared according to the official methods.

Residues of plant protection products (pesticides, pesticides).

gas chromatograph (HPLC chromatographic techniques that detect the peaks corresponding to the sample solution if present).

Residues of Heavy Metals (Cadmium and Lead).

ICP-MS (technique for the detection of contaminated inorganic trace-level. The principle is based on the use of a plasma torch (ICP) to produce ionization and a mass spectrometer for the separation and detection of ions produced).


p. 58

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THE FLOURS

Soft grain flour on the market Surely, you happened to read a technical sheet on the type of flour you bought and you have noticed it is rich in technicalities and specific notions that send back to the in force legislation. Their comprehension cannot exclude the basic knowledge, therefore in this excursus we hint at the raw material and at the producing process by analysing the characterizing aspects.

What is the construction of the grain? The wheat cariopsis is defined as a dry and indehiscent* fruit attached to the seed. *indehiscent: remaining closed at maturity <indehiscent fruits> In the seed, there are three fundamental parts: A whole grain is any grain (not just

wheat!) which maintains all three of its parts. Keeping all three parts of the grain means you keep all of the beneficial components the whole grain has to offer. The three parts are called the bran, the germ, and the endosperm.

3

1 1 THE BRAN This is the tough and fibrous outer shell of the wheat kernel. This was created by nature to protect the interior of the wheat berry from pesky insects and the elements so the kernel can sprout and grow into a new plant. It contains important antioxidants, B vitamins and fiber.

2 GERM This is the most important part of the grain in regards to its development because this is the embryo that will transform into a plant. This is also the only portion of the grain that contains healthy fats. It also contains B vitamins, some protein, and minerals.

3 ENDOSPERM This is the largest part of the grain, which is fortunate because it is the food supply for the plant when it first starts to grow before it has well-established roots and leaves for nourishment. This is the starchy part of the grain where most of the carbohydrate can be found. It also provides proteins and small amounts of vitamins and minerals.

2

The action of separating flour from bran takes the name of sifting and it is executed through a system of sifters. As the sifting degree varies, the composition of flour varies too, a high yield drives you to obtain a rougher flour, a lower yield a more refined flour. It is now possible to understand the definition reported in the dpr n째 187/2001, that in art. 1 quotes clearly: 1. Soft grain flour is the product obtained from the grinding and the following sifting of flour freed from foreign substances and impurities. 2. Integral soft grain flour is the product obtained from grinding soft grain wheat freed from foreign substances and impurities.


p. 59

DECREE OF THE PRESIDENT OF THE REPUBLIC FEBRUARY 9TH, 2001, N. 187 SOFT GRAIN FLOUR: TYPES AND DENOMINATION

TIPOLOGIE

max (%)

Farina di grano tenero

Farina integrale di grano tenero

CENERI

UMIDITÀ

PROTEINE

min (%)

max (%)

min(%)

00

14.5

0.55

9.00

0

14.5

0.65

11.00

1

14.5

0.80

12.00

2

14.5

0.95

12.00

14.5

1.30

1.70

12.00

WHICH ARE THE OTHER LAW PROVISIONS?

Humidity Degree

Ash content

Protein content

Legislation contemplates this parameter as it is reported in chart 1. The humidity of flour doesn’t have to exceed 14, 50%, but it is permitted mixing 15,50% humidity content, with the only clause that the label reports maximum humidity content 15.50%. A higher humidity content is considered a fraud, and furthermore a high humidity level limits the conservation of flour. It is the cause for developing mould and for microbes, presence of pests, loss of optimal organoleptic traits, stale odour for rancidity, uneven colour, presence of lumps. It is for this reason that, in addition to controlling the level of humidity of the finished product effected by the mill, it is fundamental that the user conserves in optimal way the flour in a dry and fresh place.

The maximum value of ash has to fit in the category of the product.

Always in chart 1 we can note that as the ash content increases, the minimum content of proteins increases as well. The protein increase is justified from the fact that many proteins are present in ash.


O RT

TR A

N

SP

PR

GR A

IN

THE FLOURS

What are the phases of the productive process?

Is it better to grind one type of wheat or a different variety of wheat? According to the different needs, we can choose to grind a mix of different grains with similar characteristic (as for protein content and rheological parameter) or grind only one variety. This choice is up to the mill and it is bound to the fact of owning an adequate structure. Grinding only one variety can be valid only if the grain has real high performances, or is a product with a precise origin, in all other cases, it is wise to work with a mix of more than one grain to obtain always the same product, minimizing the risk of flaws due only to one variety.

IN PA A JU TR CK M AN A BL SP GIN E O G RT AN D

pizza e pasta italiana

ro on in of gr m ed i c ie ro nt a s nd

year 2015

D EL IV ER E CL Y EA N SI ST N G O RA GE CL IN EA SI LO N IN G CO N D IT IO GR N IN IN G D IN G FL O U R ST O RA A GE m dd ac iti

p. 60

Why other ingredients are added to flours? In conventional flours, adding micro and macro ingredients to improve and correct the technological characteristic of the flour contained. The following are the admitted ingredients for conventional flours:

1. Gluten. It could be added in order

to increase the protein value. The gluten content is fundamental because it is determinant for the creation of the dough.

2. Ascorbic Acid (E300). It is added to

increase the gluten net, as outcome there is the resistence of dough.

3.

Enzymatic processes. Enzymes are reaction catalyst, in other words it increases the speed of chemical reactions. The most used enzymes are:

- amylase: they attack starch making available fermenting sugars that make up an underlayer for yeasts. - proteases: they cut the proteic chains giving dough a greater flexibility. -oxidation: they reduce the extensibility of dough -pentosanasi and cellulasis NOT ADMITTED: In Italy, whitening that are admitted in foreign legislations. The whitening of flour is a forbidden praxis for two reasons: above all it is necessary the usage of harmful substances for consumers, and in second place, they can modify the aspect of flour type 0 just like 00 flour facilitating frauds. (es. perossido di benzoile) per la salute del consumatore e, in secondo luogo, possono modificare lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;aspetto delle farine facendo passare farine di tipo 0 come farine 00 facilitando le frodi.


p. 62

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pizza e pasta italiana

A serious approach to natural sour dough yeast

For some time now, there is a return in the use of sourdough, almost a run of bakers, pastry chefs and pizza to a type of yeast used in the past, replaced by fresh compressed yeast or brewerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s yeast or Saccharomyces cerevisiae, or to call it with their own scientific name, which is the only one in the field of bakery to boast the sacrosanct right to be, both from a microbiological and a scientific point of view, a real baking powder because it is in all respects.

edited by Giampiero Rorato


yeast

p. 63

Aâ&#x20AC;&#x160;

s the food technologist Simona Lauri has well pointed out "Mother or sour dough, at an artisan level, is a complex biological ecosystem comprising more than 50 species of lactic acid bacteria belonging to the genera Lactobacillus, Pediococcus, etc. and more than 20 species of yeasts belonging to the genera Saccharomyces, Candida, etc. It is a non-native micro-flora in continuous evolution in which predominate the cultures of lactic acid bacteria on yeast in an approximate ratio of 100 to 1. In technical language, common among professionals, is identified as sour dough yeast, though not microbiologically speaking is a type of "yeast", but in fact a wild microflora that prokaryotic cells predominate." In brief, we can say that the yeast or sourdough is a natural yeast (such as Brewer's yeast) that is used by bakers and pastry chefs to schedule and produce leavened cakes and it can also be used for preparing doughnuts, pizzas, focaccia. Each yeast has its texture and its colour, there is never one equal to the other and this because it depends very much on who takes care of it, how it is taken care of and how many times it is fed and refreshed. The sourdough (clearly natural, exactly as is the brewer's yeast) is a mixture of flour and water acidified by bacteria that trigger the fermentation that produce carbon dioxide, helps the natural leavening. In the original dough-mix, to give birth of sourdough, you can also use fruit, honey or yogurt to accelerate fermentation. Sourdough has ancient origins, each yeast has a life of its own, there is one that possesses natural sour dough yeast for over a century and there are white art operators that make it a veritable "culture" and the daily care as a child!

For the first time (but it is better always) must be refreshed at least once a day. Being a "live" creature must be nurtured and this procedure must be done with consistency by adding water and flour new to the mix. To find out if the sour dough is ready to be used, just leave it at room temperature. In truth, if the use of sourdough gives undoubted advantages for fragrances, flavours and length of bread, it exacts a serious professionalism backed by an indispensable daily, so it is still a niche product, preferred by amateurs. Natural yeast or sourdough sour dough was written a lot and everyone can produce it at home and has long life if you seriously and appropriately supplied. Later tradition that those who have it at home â&#x20AC;&#x201C; bakers, pizza makers, pastry chefs â&#x20AC;&#x201C; will give a bit for free to whoever asks for extended to produce it at home. The recipient must know to keep and feed it right (by listening to the advice of the donor) and remove a bit when he need to leaven for its preparations. Working diligently this yeast is preserved without any problems and helps produce bread, pizzas and fragrant and sweet scented.


p. 64

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pizza e pasta italiana

THE EXTRAORDINARY HISTORY OF BREAD

BREAD IS THE MILESTONE OF FOOD CIVILIZATION IN THE WESTERN WORLD


the extraordinary history of bread

p. 65

T 

he western civilization has its own uniqueness and originality that from the ancient Greece came directly intact to our time and holds as qualifying elements, bread, wine and olive oil. Only in this part of the world – Mediterranean countries, but not all of them – have all these three products. Italy holds the privilege since ancient times to produce all these three great products, surely since when around 750 b.C, some Greek refugees left for Sicily and founded there some settlements, spreading everywhere olive and grapevines, which enriched local productions, where ancient varieties of grain where produced. Later on, slowly, when Rome became the major world power, the grain plantations, the vineyards and the olive trees spread out throughout the whole peninsula.

BREAD The most important food was also at that time bread and Romans, teaching to work the land, to transform forests and swamps into fertile workable land, spreading the livestock and teaching how to grow grain and making it more productive than what it was before, increased also the production of bread which even became, some centuries later, once enriched with raisins, dried fruit and aromatic seeds, the cake for Christmas, which has not disappeared yet. Panforte of Siena, Pangiallo of Rome, Panpepato of Terni and of Ferrara, Pandolce of Genua, Panvinesco of Apuglia, just to quote some, these are all Christmas cakes that are still present, obtained with some enriched bread. In Italy bread was never in a shortage, even if there were periods of famine, wars, shortage of harvest, some bread even during Festivities and for children, older and sick people was never in a lack.

TRADITIONAL BREAD

illustrated by

Tommaso Vidus Rosin

Among the most known traditional bread types, there is the traditional bread of Genzano (Rome), the bread of Matera, the bread of Altamura (Bari), the bread of hard paste of Pavia, the bread of Terni, the Coppia Ferrarese, Carasau bread of Sardinia and Rosetta, Ciabatta Polesana, the unleavened bread of the ebraic communities, the Tuscan bread without salt and some other different types of bread produced in different Italian places.


p. 66

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pizza e pasta italiana

THE EXTRAORDINARY HISTORY OF BREAD Why is there this great variety of bread in Italy? The question is legitimate and the answer is easy, in Italy there has always been a great love for bread and each place along centuries has refined its own bread according the variety of grain cultivated (hard or soft, but not only this), according to baking techniques (daily, weekly, every two weeks), also according to religious applications and according to economic availability. It is true that on the Italian table, bread cannot miss, as for wine – Italy is an excellent producer of wine, from Valle d’Aosta to Pantelleria, from Friuli Venezia Giulia to Sardinia – and extravirgin olive oil, the real and good one, produced with Italian olives by many olive mills from Trieste to Sicily.

THE CULTURE OF BREAD The ancient culture of bread which characterizes the Italian cuisine is more and more demanding and there is a precise return – due to a growing request of consumers – not only for traditional bread, but also to the production and empowering of ancient Italian grains, much better under a nutritional profile than grains produced by multinational corporations. Italy was able to conserve its ancient grains and excellent land genists, making along time skilful crossings, allowing today to have and to produce grains, both soft and hard, able to offer to many artisans of bread in Italy wonderful flour. One of the characteristics of the Italian cuisine is, in other words, in the valorisation of local products, among which bread holds a honour place and, along with the phenomenon of bread imports of frozen bread abroad, there is the growing engagement of bread artisans, to make high level bread, made with wonderful flours often using mother yeast.

edited by Giampiero Rorato


p. 68

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

Red

THE WONDERFUL WORK OF ART OF ALESSANDRO BERTUZZI


the sweet corner

p. 69

Perceptions by Giovanna Allegra

T 

he dessert that is presented in this article is a demonstration of the high quality of the Italian pastry, this is the true work of art of a renown pastry chef. The chef is not well known to the public even if, he is well known and estimated around the great pastry chefs, where he is considered as one of the most interesting and educated personalities of the Italian pastry sector. We are talking about the chef and pastry chef Alessandro Bertuzzi, 35 years old, from Imola. After he graduated from IPSSAR “Pellegrino Artusi” of Riolo Terme, Alessandro graduated in oenology – University of Bologna/Cesena, and later on a second degree in Science and Food Technologies at the University of Parma.

He is an expert of leavened products based on natural yeast, and teacher at the School of Alma in Colorno under the guidance of Gualtiero Marchesi and he works together with many companies of the sector for the study and the development of food products with industrial technologies to introduce them into the market of the artisanal pastry and he is one of the most prominent Italian pastry chefs. Since last year he became a teacher of the Professional Pastry & Cake Design School by Sweetest. down

The Chef Alessandro Bertuzzi

The sweet creation presented here by Alessandro Bertuzzi is called “Red Perceptions” and we asked him to explain it to us. “In this latest work of mine – he answered - red comes back not only as a word but as a group of different meanings. Red as an expression of the nutty caramel Rosso Arauca, that I have realized in a recent past, gives significance to the note of the red fruit present in this kind of fine chocolate. Now, “Red Perceptions” wishes to express in a non metaforic way but clear and direct the characteristics both of the dessert but also in the chocolate part present in the mousse “Ricca Huila”.


p. 70

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

THE SWEET CORNER

The Dessert Here the red ties to one of the multiple meanings of this word, the warm notes of the Huila 65% chocolate are well resumed in the red – that expresses warmth. The sensorial profile of chocolate – he adds – that comes from this area of South America, expresses sweet floral notes, well blended with the notes of dry and caramel fruit, among which the cherry note mounts without embarrassment. In my journey devoted to the fine de aroma chocolate, red is a welcomed guest that often takes many meanings.

In “Red Perceptions” I am able to feel the warmth of chocolate, I see the full red of cherry, and to the human eye red is visible in everyday light. I like to intend it as passion in the fine chocolate and happiness for the Chinese culture.” But now let’s take a look at the recipe, only apparently complex, because the single passages, as suggested by Alessandro Bertuzzi, to the final assembly, are within the range of those who have familiarity with the pastry art.


p. 71

The Recipe Rich 65%Huila Mousse: For the English Cream of the base: 250 g of full milk, 250 g of cream 35%, 150 g of egg yolks, 50 g of sugar, 10 g of glucose. Procedure: porta a ebollizione la panna con il latte e versa sui tuorli d’uovo precedentemente mescolati [4h prima] con lo zucchero e il glucosio 60de. Porta a 85°.

For the supreme: supreme: 570 g. of English Cream for the base, 445 g of Huila 65% chocolate, 170 g of cream 35%. Procedure: Prepare an emulsion by pouring little by little the custard on the loose cover, to get an elastic mixture, smooth and shiny. Verifies that this temperature is 35/40°. Add the whipped cream, pour into the molds to block [see Assembly].

Raw cherry compote: 350 g fresh cherries, 50 g sugar, 6 g isinglass 200 g, cherry puree, 10 g of lemon juice.

Dark mix to be sprayed: 700 g. Huile 65% 300 gr. cocoa butter.

Preparation: heat a portion of pureed with the gelatine previously soaked mass and sugar, adding the lemon juice, the remaining puree and fresh cherries [see Assembly].

Procedure: melt of the ingredients and mix. As a precaution filter to leave out all the foreign bodies which would block the gun. Use at a temperature pf 4045°C to be sprayed.

Madelines Base: 375 g of almond flour, 200 g sugar, 100 g invert sugar 540 g of egg whites, 150 g cream 35% fat, 20 g of corn flour, 100 g of 33.5% Atlantic, 200 g of Macadamia Nut.

Chocolate crumble: 250 g. butter, 350g cane sugar (Demerara), 230 g flour (90100W), 280g almond flour, 50 g cocoa, lemon zest, a pinch of salt

Preparation: Mix all the ingredients in the mixer except for chocolate. Melt chocolate, and add it to the rest of the mix until all is omogeneus. Let the mix rest for 12 hours. Bake it in the molds at 180°C. This biscuit doesn't grow much and it conserves even after baking the initial thickness, and it is still very soft.

Procedure: Mix the brown sugar with almond flour, cocoa, flour [90100w] and salt. Cut the cold butter into cubes, add the grated lemon rind. Add the first mixture and sand mixture, taking care not to fit the dough into 2 Island fat blasting proteins present in the flour [gliadin and Glutenin] that would give United to the mixture. In this way we will get the correct crispness of crumble. 1:0 stabilizes in the refrigerator. Distribute the mixture on parchment paper or silpat black [it is recommended the use of a perforated pan to remove any moisture from the crumble] and bake in the oven at 150-160° C valve open.

Final Assembly: Pour the rich mousse Huila 65% inside the moulds [to block] up in half, add raw cherry compote. Complete with remaining mousse. Does break down to -18° c. Finished product and installation on a grid for finishing; stabilizes in felling. Distribute the mixture on parchment paper or silpat black [it is recommended the use of a perforated pan to remove any moisture from the crumble] and bake in the oven at 150-160° C valve open. Place on bottom slate madeleines, supports the finger splash with a flat spatula. Add the crumble on the surface of the cake. Trim with chocolate plaques [on transfer] finger sides; on the surface finish with fresh cherries and horsetail leaves..


2015 Brand New:

Uniqua

More than just Flour Everything is special in Dallagiovanna’s flours: intuition in choosing the most suitable wheats, methods of analysis and research, best tradition processes and the most avant-guard machinery. Last but not least there are the Masters of the White Art Laboratory, important professionals and teachers in the leading schools in Europe, whom with their experience are fundamental for the continuous improvement of production.

Multi-purpose flours for your products. Tasteful like yesterday, today.

100% nature, 100% high quality Our wheat comes exclusively from the EU, USA and Canada, and the majority is from Piacenza”KM. 0”. We also require a wheat passport from our suppliers, stating the origin and any treatments the grains were subjected to. The grains are stored naturally, with cool air and without pesticides. We are the only mill to wash grain using potable water, and once the kernel is adequately dampened, milling is even and slow, without ever damaging the starches and protein. Finally, we implement constant Quality Control, thanks to the professionals in our Production Department, our Analysis and Research Laboratory and the White Art Masters who work in constant collaboration to render every blend the perfect Flour. WHEAT WASHING The practice of washing is – or better was – used mainly to clean the wheat and to eliminate impurities before the milling process; the flour becomes whiter and the grains can be milled in a more homogeneous way. After a first air cleaning, grains are dipped in water for some hours, according to their properties. It is a very important process, now forgotten by big companies that prefers, for financial reasons, dry cleaning followed by conveyor conditioning. The Molino Dallagiovanna, along with few other small high-quality artisan producers, considers cleaning one of the key requirements for creating a superior flour, regardless of the extra costs and profit margins.

+ Special Flours: studied and tested for any requirement - bread, pasta, shortcrust and puff pastry, big and small leavened products and pizza, also with vital wheat germ! + Gluten-Free and Lactose-Free preparations: taste and health in the same dish - bread and pizza, pasta, shortcrust, fried sweets and leavened products. + Flour mixes: discover new tastes - for pizza and for leavened products.

Nearly 200 years of milling tradition to offer you over 50 blends, approved by international quality certifications and processed with the best production methods of every era. With us, your dough will always be the best of your life.

Our Story, your Future. Everywhere.


Try FAR PIZZA RED - long leavening


p. 74

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

The ideal marriage with food

How to make a correct pairing between food and wine edited by G.R.


p. 75

1 Wâ&#x20AC;&#x2030;

hen you try a food, you are able to taste the different aromas and smells which are determined by the nature of the food itself, from the seasoning, to the system and the concentration of the cooking. These characteristics are crucial for the right choice of the wine to accompany the dish, thus before making a pair, one needs to know the different feelings given by the food and the wine, later on make a thorough analysis on the different sensations that arise from different ways of cooking and different seasoning, considering that the evaluation of taste and of the aroma of a wine depends on the serving temperature.

First Rule: Never advice a pairing when you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know very well the dish and the wine. To better understand the characteristics of a dish and of a wine, you need to know precisely its characteristics, with a lot of exercise, taking over and quantifying, in a scale of values, the sensations taken during the organoleptic examination.

In brief, the different pairings have to take into account the different carachteristic of plate and consequently going against the plate or in analogy. The principle of analogy is simplest to be applied. The traits of the dish have to be applied with those of the wine. A very rich food with persistent flavours requires a strong wine with a long persistency, whereas a light food and delicate requires a light and delicate wine and a very sweet dessert needs a wine equally sweet, on the other hand for a non very sweet pastry work. The principle of contrast is much more complex and it requires a careful evaluation both of wine and of food and of the effects that the different components have in contrast, when they are combined with food...


p. 76

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

WINE

To understand this more in depth, we should say that acid is a component that tends to neutralize salt, so a food that is saltier combines good with an acid wines (raw sea food with white wines and acid wine and cured meat with red acid wines). The salty note, in food like seasoned cheese, reveals the sweetness of wines, a good reason to pair sweet wines with cheeses like Gorgonzola or Roquefort. Drinking lemon juice, the taste reveals an unpleasant acid flavour, but if we add sugar, the sweetness makes the drink more pleasant. This demonstrates that sugar goes against the acid taste of lemon and so a more acid dish requires softer wines need to be paired, or better, that gives to the mouth a semi sweet sensation not due to the presence of sugar, where more acid wines are preferred. Another example of contrast that has to be analyzed is that of the tannins of red wine, that chemically make a good bond with proteins, this is a phenomenon that can be seen when you drink a tannic wine. In this case, there is a stringent sensation in the oral cavity with a reduction of saliva, because tannins made a bond with mucina, a protein present in saliva. If we pair a tannic wine, with a food rich in proteins, such as cheese and meat, tannin will bind with mucina, notably decreasing the acid sensation determined by the very same tannins. The acid of tannins and alcohol are useful when you eat food that make you drool (the excessive stimulation of saliva, makes flavour lighter to the mouth) containing salivation and restoring the oral balance. For info more in depth, please visit le following webpage: www.fisar.com

left

a Fisar sommelier

down

Antica Osteria del Ponte tavern in Cassinetta di Lugagnano (Mi)

bottom

cantina of Tavernetta in Cittanova di Eraclea (Ve)


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p. 80

year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

— Let’s talk about Chianti Classico —

Interview with Giuseppe Liberatore, General Director of the Consortium of the famous Gallo Nero Chianti Classico

by Virgilio Pronzati


p. 81

Giuseppe Liberatore

INTERVIEW

So I ask dr. Liberatore if a 20% cut - if allowed - with a previous vintage wine may improve overall Chianti Classico?

If in the Chianti Classico Sangiovese must be at least 80%, with the remaining 20% of Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot might not, Dr. Liberatore change significantly off the wine’s characteristics (typical) and confuse the consumer?

The interview with Dr. Liberatore, allows us to know in depth one of the great Italian wines, state of the art, problems and prospects of a product that honors and celebrates the centuries Italian wine in the world. Let us begin by recalling that the production area of Chianti Classico DOCG covers 10,000 hectares, with different altitudes and soils for which the wines have different characteristics, exacerbated by climatic conditions that, if adverse, are resorting to the enrichment of the wine with concentrated must (from grapes of the area), adjusted or grape sugar.

In fact, the production area of ​​Chianti Classico DOCG covers approximately 7,000 acres that are registered with another 2,000 hectares, within the area of Chianti Classico, planted but not enrolled in the Chianti Classico vineyards, in these vineyards other types of wine are produced, including some of IGT. The production area of Chianti Classico is morphologically very diverse, with different altitudes and soils, contributing factors to give the wine production area, special features, although still below the lowest common denominator as Sangiovese grapes. This is our added value, because every year, thanks to the various microclimates and terroirs within the area of production, even when the weather is not ideal it always manage to produce excellent quality wine. As for cutting with previous years, Chianti Classico is allowed only up to 15%.

Sangiovese is a grape with a great character but, like all great performers of world enology, does not always find the best conditions to express its full potential. It ‘a difficult grape variety, which has a late ripening, which requires a lot of work in the vineyard. The possibility of using alternative grape varieties in the blend of Chianti Classico, both international varieties such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, autochthonous, as Colorino, Canaiolo, Malvasia Nera, and so on. provides opportunities for winemakers to produce wines with different stylistic and always reach a very high standard in any year. Moreover, even varieties such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, when grown in the Chianti Classico area, in fact they take the mark, giving the wine characteristics that are closely related to the area of production.


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INTERVIEW Depending on the year there will then Chianti Classico with different characteristics which are often accentuated in the woody tannins and the excessive use of barrels and barrels that limit the harmony and expression of the terroir. What do you think about this?

Among the producers of Chianti Classico there are those so-called historians, medium and large production and small craftsmen. Natural different types but also in contrast between them. The Consortium helps small producers technically?

The notes and important wine growing regions, most of the wine, in this case the Chianti Classico, is sold abroad. A positive but leaves room for some considerations: hope that the trend will hold, and if there may be more space in the domestic trade. What is the marketing strategy of the consortium to consolidate the foreign market already acquired and to increase the national one?

“ “

The age of the wines “beaver” as a period were baptized those who had bottles on the palate overuse of wood, it is now past. Even in markets like the United States, where the taste has always been oriented towards more structured wines with tannins present, the trend is to seek again the fruit, elegance and harmony. I think the word harmony is the key word for the Chianti Classico today: a conscious use of the wood, especially in the wine intended for the medium and long-term aging, it is necessary and helps to enhance the organoleptic characteristics derived from the fruit.

The difference in size of our company is our strength. The more structured companies have been a “trailblazer” in many markets for smaller companies could not be achieved. The Consortium has always supported all categories of producers, with the creation of promotional activities diversified. From a technical perspective, it gave a great contribution to the project Chianti Classico 2000, a research project that our Association has been conducting for more than 15 years, with the collaboration of the Universities of Florence and Pisa, which included the study of thesis over 200 viticultural specially made in 10 plots in different areas in the Chianti region. This project has made important technical information to growers Chianti, from the point of view of the selection of the best clones to the regret of the vineyards that of many other concepts in: density of planting, cultivation techniques, rootstock etc

Our Association has for years invested energy and resources in key European markets and overseas-ocean. In recent years, the export share has certainly grown, and today is exceeding 80% of total sales. I do not think this trend is going to last, because the Chianti Classico is distributed in over 50 countries around the world and we have several established markets from the US and Germany, and others with ample room for growth, and see Canada many Asian countries (China). We do not want neglecting the domestic market, and here in Italy we are implementing innovative marketing operations, aimed at achieving a growth of awareness of our product and the brand of the Black Rooster. Among these I may mention the opening of flagship stores, monobrand stores , in addition to offering a wide range of wines Chianti Classico objects with the logo of the Black Rooster.


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pizza e pasta italiana

INTERVIEW

I ask finally, thanking its availability, which changes the Consortium of Chianti Classico proposed and implemented in the product specification.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

An important innovation is the introduction of a new type in the qualitative pyramid of Chianti Classico: Great Selection. In the new type covering only wines produced entirely from grapes of a single vineyard or grapes selected from the best vineyards of the company. In addition to providing chemical and organoleptic more restrictive, Great Selection can be placed on the market only after a minimum aging period of thirty months which three of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;aging in bottle. With the Great Selection Chianti Classico is the first name in Italian to point up, decide to exploit its territory starting with its excellent quality. Another important new feature is the fact that the manufacturer now has to always declare at the time of application suitability of the product for its intended use, or if the product for which certification is requested is intended for the Chianti Classico Vintage, Reserve or Great Selection. In this way, the manufacturer implements a more informed choice, selecting a priori grapes and wines for the different types. Finally, the mark of the Gallo Nero, which since 2005 is the full name of the Chianti Classico region, has undergone a redesign intended to make it even more character on the bottle: Black Rooster redesigned with a more effective forms and features modern leaves the band this was to be a more visible on the bottle, place the neck or back label.


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year 2015

pizza e pasta italiana

The wine corner by Virgilio Pronzati

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG Corte Pavone 2004

Barbaresco DOCG Gaiun Martinenga 2006

Loacker Tenute S. S Agricultural Society

Tenute Cisa Asinary dei Marchesi di Gresy

Corte Pavone 278-53024 - Montalcino (SI)

Location Martinenga - Road Station 21-12050 Barbaresco (CN)

www.loacker.net - lo@cker.it

www.marchesidigresy.com - matilde@marchesidigresy.com

APPEARANCE Clarity 5 Color 5 PERFUME Intensity 5 Persistence 5 Finesse 5 Harmony 5 TASTE Persistence 5.5 Fullness 4 Sapidity 4 Acidity /softness 4 Harmony 4 RATING Great 4 TOTAL SCORE

56

/60

CATEGORY: Dry Red. Varietal: Sangiovese. Bottle: 75 cl. Alcohol: 14%. Lot 0707. Hose Doc AAI 03434876. Bottles produced: 40,000. Average price in wine: € 50.00. Storage: in cellar, in lying position on shelves used for red wines of long aging, at a temperature of 12-14 ° C. Evolution: almost ready. Time of consumption: still 8-10 years. Service: pour at 18 ° C in large and medium-bellied goblets with stem. Match: ravioli with wild boar sauce, terrine of woodcock, roast goose, Beef Wellington, Tuscan pecorino of 10-12 months.

ORGANOLEPTIC TEST Clarity: clear. Color: Deep ruby with purple rim. Nose: very intense and persistent, pronounced, fine, large, with distinct fruity, spicy and balsamic jam wild red berries, almond dried, ground black pepper, mild and bitter cocoa, licorice, coffee, dried herbs and woody. Taste: dry, fairly fresh, fruity, warm, pleasantly astringent, with good body and persistence, with a bitter aftertaste. Aftertaste: vein astringent notes and very fruity, spicy and balsamic.

CONSIDERATIONS: Great. Obtained from selected grapes sangiovese grosso in biological system of vineyards in the average age of 22 years. Winemaking: The grapes are fermented with maceration 30 days at 28 ° C in small conical section steel and oak with fulling automatic. The maturation of the wine was made for the first year, 30-40% in barrels of 500 liters, the difference in large barrels. A total of three years in casks.

APPEARANCE Clarity 5 Color 4 PERFUME Intensity 5 Persistence 5 Finesse 5 Hamrony 5 TASTE Persistence 5 Fullness 4.5 Sapidity 4.5 Acidity /softness 4 Harmony 4 RATING Great 4 TOTAL SCORE

55

/60

CATEGORY: Dry Red. Vine: Nebbiolo. Bottle: 75 cl. Alcohol: 14%. Lot: 1809. Bottles: 6,100 Average price in wine € 75.00. Storage: in cellar, in lying position on shelves used for red wines of long aging, at a temperature of 12-14 ° C. Evolution: almost ready. Time of consumption: even 4-6 years. Service: pour at 18 ° C in large and mediumbellied goblets with stem. Match: ravioli with ragout of partridge, pheasant, braised in Barbaresco, grilled beef, Castelmagno of 8-10 months. ORGANOLEPTIC TEST Clarity:clear. Color: garnet exhaust with orange rim. Bouquet: intense, persistent, very fine, with clear hints of iris and rose withered, jelly ripe red berries in particular blackberry, blackcurrant and strawberry, almond and hazelnut dry, mountain hay and slightly bitter chocolate, cinnamon and tar. Taste: dry, fairly fresh and fruity, warm, balanced tannins, full but slender, very persistent with a pleasant bitter aftertaste. Aftertaste: tannic vein and floral, fruity, vegetable-balsamic and spicy.

CONSIDERATIONS: Great. Obtained from Nebbiolo grapes of the vineyard choices Gaiun Martinenga destemmed and fermented and macerated for about 10 days a floating cap, and other eight days submerged cap, followed by malolactic fermentation. Then the wine is aged for at least thirty months in French oak barrels, and about a month of aging in bottle.


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THE WINE CORNER

Barolo DOCG 2007

Fonterutoli Chianti Classico DOCG 2007

Wine House Casetta Brothers - Via Castellero 5,

Marchesi Mazzei SpA Agricola Castello di Fonterutoli

12040 Vezza d’Alba (CN)

Via Otto III 5 - Loc. Fonterutoli, 53011 Castellina in Chianti (SI)

www.flli-casetta.it - info@flli-casetta.it

www.mazzei.it - mazzei @ mazzei.it

APPEARANCE Clarity 5 Color 5 PERFUME Intensiy 4 Persistence 5 Finesse 4 Harmony 4 TASTE Persistence 5 Fullness 4.5 Sapidity 4.5 Acidity /softness 4 Harmony 4 RATING Great 4 TOTAL SCORE

53

/60

CATEGORY: Dry Red. Vine: Nebbiolo. Bottle: 75 cl. Alcohol: 13.5%. Lot: 2007 / BA. Clamp DOCG AAE 04919490. Bottles: 40.000. Average price in wine: € 40,00. Storage: in cellar, in lying position on shelves used for red wines of long aging, at a temperature of 12-14 ° C. Evolution: almost ready. Time of consumption: even 3-5 years. Service: pour at 18 ° C in large and medium-bellied goblets with stem. Match: noodles with hare sauce, braised in Barolo, stew of wild boar, Parmigiano Reggiano Stravecchio. ORGANOLEPTIC TEST Clarity: clear. Color: ruby to garnet with slightly orange rim. Nose: very intense, persistent, fine, large and quite complex, with floral, fruity, spicy and vegetable-balsamic dried rose, ripe red fruits, black pepper and cinnamon, and mild balsamic mountain herbs. Taste: dry, sufficiently fresh and fruity, warm, tannic, full-bodied and persistent, with a pleasant. Aftertaste: vein astringent and floral, fruity, spicy and vegetal.

CONSIDERATIONS: Very Good. Obtained from selected Nebbiolo grapes of a vineyard of eight located in the resort CervianoMerli in the municipality of Novello. Vinification: destemmed grapes, long fermentation with traditional maceration in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. After malolactic fermentation, the wine is aged for three years in oak barrels from 55 hectoliters. Following six months of aging in bottle.

APPEARANCE Clarity 5 Color 5 PERFUME Intensiy 5 Persistence 5 Finesse 4 Harmony 5

CATEGORY: Dry Red. Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Bottle: 75 cl. Alcohol: 14%. Lotto LC 2464. Bottles: 80.000. Clamp DOCG AAL 09447449. Average price in wine: € 40,00. Storage: in cellar, in lying position on shelves used for red wines of medium to long aging, at a temperature of 12-14 ° C. Evolution: almost ready. Time of consumption: even 2-4 years. Service: pour at 18 ° C in large and mediumbellied goblets with stem. Match: noodles with hare sauce, pigeon casserole, tripe alla fiorentina, sliced grilled beef, pecorino cheese of average seasoning.

TASTE Persistence 5 Fullness 4.5 Sapidity 4.5 Acidity /softness 4 Harmony 4

ORGANOLEPTIC TEST

RATING Great 4

CONSIDERATIONS: Great. Obtained from selected grapes Sangiovese and 90% Cabernet Sauvignon 10%, of vines Spaziante age from 12 to 23 years of Fonterutoli, Siepi and Belvedere, stemmed and crushed, fermented separately and maceration for about 18 days at 28-30 ° c. After malolactic fermentation, the Sangiovese ages for 16 months in oak barrels of which 70% were new, while the cabernet sauvignon mature 18 months but in the same way. Follow the assembly and maturation of 8 months in bottle.

TOTAL SCORE

55

/60

Clarity: clear. Colour: ruby with purple rim. Bouquet: intense and persistent, fine, broad, with hints of wild cherry, red currant and ripe strawberry and a little ‘macerated, black pepper, balsamic and slightly woody. Taste: dry, fresh, tangy, tannic, warm, full but slender, much persistence. Aftertaste: tannic notes and fruity, spicy and balsamic.


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THE COFFEE

Roasted coffee and high quality mixes The composition of mixes is fundamental to have fully satisfying coffees

I

taly, as it is known, is the homeland of Espresso coffee which is proudly exported in the whole world. If, like we wrote last month, single origin coffee or single variety coffee represent the new trends in this sector, the mix is our everyday reality, which has to known in depth to know and appreciate the quality of the product. But why coffee manufacturers create the coffee mix starting from different sources coming from a diversified range of countries? If in the single origin sensorial notes typical of a specific region are enhanced, with the mix we try to combine the different typical aspects to obtain a complete and unique aromatic balance, a symphony of flavours that are all expressed at the same time in order to meet all the aromatic requests of the consumer.


COFFEE

Among the favourite flavours, there is 100% Arabic or mixes Arabic/Robust, according to personal taste, but we don’t need to forget that the quality of raw materials should be an undisputed matter, which is not always the case. The creation of is among the secretes of every coffee roasting plant, where ably the different sensorial features are chosen, mixing different coffees from different part of the world in accordance with the end market.

p. 91

As a matter of fact, the Arabic type (Coffea Arabica) brings to the mix that sweetness, that intense but fine acid note – that now we know to be a positive trait, because it is a synonym of plantations located on high hills – but above all the aromatic intensity of flours, ripe fruit, species, chocolate, the Robust species (Coffea canephora) can in turn build a structured and intense body and it contains double of the caffeine as respect to the Arabic type. In the north of Italy and northern Europe 100% Arabic mixes or mixes with a high content of Arabic type are preferred in order to obtain more acid coffees, whereas in the south of Italy and in the countries of southern Europe on the other hand mixes with a high level of robust are which gives an intense flavour, stronger accents and a resistant and long-lasting cream. Unfortunately the mix could become a good excuse to add coffee of bad quality, because coffee at the bar in Italy has the same cost, regardless if it is of quality or not! Regardless of personal taste, in other words, the choice of the origins which make up the mix should take to offer clean coffees, without the smell of the bag, ground, mould or other smells able to destroy the pleasing moment of drinking our beloved coffee and that even the most inexperienced consumer could recognize. The quality of the coffee is an excellent expression of all the typical notes and features of the single origins which compose the mix, but above all it means absence of flaws.

The quality of the coffee is an excellent expression of all the typical notes and features of the single origins which compose the mix, but above all it means absence of flaws. In other words, we know that among single sources, which can take part to the making of a mix, some of them are of undoubted sensorial quality, and that are part of the Arabic species, whereas others, generally of the Robust species, are considered of minor aromatic quality, nonetheless, according to the consumer’s taste they can be as important to obtain a strong flavour. On both cases, the absence of flaws in the raw materials should be the key to offer the consumer a product to be proud of. Let’s not forget that the consumer starts to be very curious and demanding towards the food sector more in general. The consumer is more and more informed and he/she pays attention to the quality of food and drinks, thus to have a good coffee is like giving out a business card. It could be a single origin coffee or a mix created with passion and knowledge, coffee should leave a good aroma in the mouth, clean, and the soul happy to have sipped a high quality coffee and a pleasing aftertaste which will reflect in turn to the restaurant or the bar. Dr. Eliana Cossio, Phd www.innofoodsolutions.com www.greentideimport.com


VALORIANI

world famous

A great artisan known all over the world

A

history made of experience, knowledge and passion. A business passed on five generations. Territory and tradition: these are the characterizing elements of REFRATTARI VALORIANI Srl, whose success rooted at the end of the XIX century in the Florentine area. From the ancient art of the vases maker Pietro Valoriani, to the creation of the first pre-built wood fired oven and even further to the daily innovations of the Valoriani Verace and Trailer. A fame supported in its quality from international recognized certifications and declarations. In the USA our professional ovens have the ETL Certification Mark, in Great Britain are approved from the CLEAN AIR 2005 No. 2304, in Italy from UNI 10474: in 1995 from IMQ, from the CEE 84/500, from PH laboratory and from the CE-0085CP0379. Moreover our wood fire ovens have been the first, while our gas ovens are the only one, to be approved from the AVPN (ASSOCIAZIONE VERACE PIZZA NAPOLETANA) for the baking of Neapolitan pizza. VESUVIO Vesuvio Valoriani is the most imitated gas and wood fired oven all over the world, and the most appreciated by professional pizza makers. The original project took life at the beginning of the 70’s, on the basis of a design that even today is followed, perfected by technical innovations. Vesuvio is a performing oven, synonymous and warranty of the highest quality that can be found in the pre-built professional ovens review. The refractory material allows a constant and uniform distribution of the heat for crunchy pizzas baked in a very few minutes.

VALORANI VERACE “Valoriani Verace” is a professional oven that can work also by gas. It is the only one that, even by gas, maintains the very same characteristics of Lower Insulation, Baking Floor Structure and Recycling Heating System, and guarantees the respect of the baking technique of the real Neapolitan pizza, as officially recognized by the AVPN. A state-of-theart oven, its Recycling Heating System increases its sustainability through the recovery of heat emissions, and their free recycling. Valoriani Verace follows the legislation about heat emissions when working by wood and the rules to obtain the True Neapolitan Pizza mark (AVPN). FORNOGRILL Fornogrill is a professional product, ready for use, to cook grilled food both from above and below. It works both by coal and gas. Its vault is heated by a small flame placed at the bottom of the oven. Meat, fish, vegetables and cheese are the main characters, and their flavours and consistencies are intensified by a perfect, quick and uniform cooking, optimised by Valoriani’s knowledge, gained in years of ovens’ production. The new born is a very easy to use product, with a single hand gesture the grill can be lifted or lowered. Both of its versions are combined with an extractor fan with 6 different speeds, thus being able to extract also meat smokes, heavier than those produced when baking a pizza. TRAILER The Trailer Valoriani, an absolute innovation for the Italian market, was developed in cooperation with a Tuscan company, specialized in catering equipment. Specifically designed for professional wood-fired ovens for 5/6 pizzas or 8/9 pizzas, it will become indispensable for professionals who wish to set up their mobile pizzeria comfortably without forgoing the Valoriani Ovens recognized quality.

Many others have tried to copy our ovens, we take that as a compliment, even if VALORIANI’s ovens are and will always be the one and only ORIGINALS. Thank you, MASSIMO VALORIANI


ForniTheValoriani originals

VALORIANI

VALORIANI

• VESUVIO IGLOO/OT SERIES

• VESUVIO GR SERIES

measures expressed in cm

measures expressed in cm

MOD.

Inside dimensions

Outside dimensions

Front Weight Flue Pizza opening kg manifold capacity

100 ø

100x100

140x150

54x28

1000

20

120 ø

120x120

160X170

55x28

1250

140 ø

140x140

180X190

55x28

120X160

120x160

160X210

140X160

140x160

140X180 180 ø

MOD.

Inside dimensions

Outside dimensions

Front Weight Flue Pizza opening kg manifold capacity

4/5

100 ø

100x100

116x130x h58

54x28

500

20

4/5

20

5/6

120 ø

120x120

136x150x h58

55x28

600

20

5/6

1500

20

8/9

140 ø

140x140

156x170x h60

55x28

750

20

8/9

55x28

1500

20

8/9

120X160

120x160

136x190x h58

55x28

750

20

8/9

180X210

55x28

1650

20

11/12

140X160

140x160

156x190x h60

55x28

850

20

11/12

140x180

180X230

55x28

1800

20-25

14/15

140X180

140x180

156x210x h60

55x28

1000

20-25

14/15

180x180

225X245

55x28

2100

20-25

17/19

180 ø

180x180

196x210x h66

55x28

1200

20-25

17/19

• MEAT • FISH • VEGETABLES

PATENTED PATENTED

• VALORIANI VERACE

• FORNOGRILL

measures expressed in cm

Inside MOD. dimensions 120 ø 140 ø

Outside dimensions

Front opening

Weight kg

120x120

160x170x h190 with stand

45x22 on request 54x22

1250

140x140

180x190x h190 with stand

45x22 on request 54x22

1500

FORNOGRILL VALORIANI cooks the food both from above and below the grill, thanks to the special arching of the vault, thus considerably reducing the baking time. For further information: www.valoriani.it

Refrattari Valoriani S.r.l. Via Caselli alla Fornace, 213 • 50066 REGGELLO (FI) tel. 055 86 80 69 • fax 055 86 95 992 valoriani@valoriani.it • www.valoriani.it

VALORIANI

blog.valoriani.it

facebook.com/ValorianiOvens

twitter.com/Valoriani

the Company reserves the right to make changes without notice - pictures text and numbers are indicative

dellanesta.it

The very first professional gas and wood fired ovens with the baking floor made of refractory cotto. They represent the best solution for perfectly baked pizzas.


p. 94

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THE BAR CORNER

'S brother liquor:

170 years of history

I

In 1848, three years before the outbreak of the first war for the independence of Italy, that was declared to Austria by King Charles Albert of Sardinia, Bernardino Branca from Milan, after several tests, said to be satisfied of the bitter spirit obtained in his distillery, and he named it Fernet and, together with his brothers, he created a company located in Corso di Porta Nuova in Milan, and their product began to be sold it in Italy. Perhaps in 1845 Bernardino Branca could not imagine the success its Fernet would have. The recipe of the spirit was kept secret, sending it only to those who would have been after him, the owner of Fratelli Branca Distillery. The main ingredients used by Bernardino are well known, and here we will mention a few: Millet, Lime, Galanga, Chamomile, Cinnamon, Saffron, Ireos, Gentian and Bitter Orange, but the dosage amount of the single quantities - almost immediately the mixture was formed by 27 herbs, more flowers, and roots of various plants - have remained a family secret known only to the president of the company , which is currently Niccolò Branca, who in 2011was then appointed by the President of the Republic, Giorgio Napolitano, Cavaliere del Lavoro (Order of Merit for Labor).

by Gianandrea Rorato

Over time, thanks to the rapid pace of new technologies and international transport operations, while retaining the original formula of Fernet Branca, universally known as Fernet -Branca , was further refined gaining a wider public. Meanwhile, it was possible to find more easily than in the past and, therefore, choose more carefully the raw material in their production sites, present in all continents, always looking for the best most suitable and best quality and, once you arrive in the company today as in the past, herbs, flowers, roots and spices are checked and tested manually, some heat-treated, other items immediately in alcoholic infusion. The mixture obtained is soaked into the alcoholic solution and you have a perfect first product not yet become such only after a period of twelve months of absolute rest in oak barrels , during which the mixture is mixed at best and is balanced perfectly , for then give that special flavor that has captivated generations of consumers.


A SHOW FLOOR WITH EVERYTHING PIZZA

Jason Dorsey brings his highenergy and comic observations about generational differences to our kick-off session at Pizza Expo 2015. His edgy humor leads to useful recommendations for better managing young staff members and wooing Millennial customers. Jason will tailor his message to pizza-concept restaurant owners and managers, providing a booster shot of fun and provocative ideas to get you started at Pizza Expo.

Co-owner of 37 Chicago deepdish, Lou Malnati’s pizzerias, Marc Malnati has appeared on Food Network and Travel Channel shows. Marc recently made a splash for Chicago pizza by going video-to-video with Jon Stewart after Stewart dismissed the Windy City’s deep-dish pizzas during a Daily Show segment. Marc will discuss his role in successfully branding Lou Malnati’s and describe the company’s growth.

®

PIZZA EXPO BLOCK PARTY & WORLD PIZZA GAMES FINALS

SIP AND LEARN Devoted to the natural pairing of your crafted-with-care pizzas and the proliferating selection of craft beers, the Pavilion features samples for attendees from top U.S. breweries. You’ll get to taste flavorful lagers, ales and other styles that match the artisan caliber of your pizzas— and in the process find some new labels to add to your beer cooler. In addition, craft beer will be a topic in the seminar hall and on the demonstration stage.

BEER & BULL IDEA EXCHANGE You’ve just complete a simultaneously exhausting and exhilarating day at Expo. Your feet hurt, but your head is overflowing with ideas to consider for your business. Well, take a load off with a brew (a craft beer if you prefer) and enjoy the opportunity to sit at a table with your peers to discuss topof-mind issues. You’ll be amazed at how willingly your colleagues share concerns and solutions.

PIZZERIA INDUSTRY EXPERTS SHARE THIER KNOWLEDGE AT INTERNATIONAL PIZZA EXPO KEYNOTE 2: MARC MALNATI

CE

WORLD PIZZA GAMES

You’ll have access to the industry’s biggest marketplace—for businessenhancing products, services and ideas—7,500-plus attendees and 1,100 booths in a space the size of nearly six football fields. Everything a pizzeria owners needs or wants to run a more profitable business will be right here. It’s all pizza and it’s all for you at the world’s largest pizza trade show. Find deals, make purchases, forge connections at Pizza Expo.

KEYNOTE 1: JASON DORSEY

G N

Exhibit Hall Open March 24-26 • Las Vegas Convention Center www.PizzaExpo.com • (800) 489-8324 • (502) 736-9500

BRATI LE

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2015’S HIGHLY COVETED WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS — CULMINATING WITH THE PIZZA MAKER OF THE YEAR BAKE OFF Plan to see—and taste—the entries in the IPC Traditional, Non-Traditional, Pizza Napoletana and Pan divisions. The winners of each division takes home a cash prize and becomes a qualifier in the World Champion Pizza Maker of the Year mystery-ingredient bake-off at show’s end. And returning for a second year in 2015: a GlutenFree Division competing on Thursday. In addition, four past champions will take part in a special “Best of the Best” blindbox competition on Thursday.

We’ve lined up our best-ever roster of presenters for the 2015 regularsession education program, free for all registered attendees. During the Tuesday through Thursday morning and afternoon sessions you’ll hear from 23 of your peers, each a working pizzeria professional, sharing knowledge on a variety of subjects. There also will be 15 restaurant industry experts and consultants covering on-target topics for your business. Don’t miss out on your opportunity to learn from Pizza Expo’s in-the-know speakers.

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Our big thank-you to all attendees for coming to Pizza Expo serves up a stimulating variety of food, drink, entertainment and games in a causal setting where you can relax with fellow pizza professionals. The main stage will feature music by the energetic contemporary pop band Dollface as well as the finals of ever-popular Freestyle Acrobatic Dough-Tossing competition. Cornhole and money booth contests will be ongoing, beer, wine and spirits flowing, and specialty food items handed out at booths and stations throughout the big party space. Wind down and socialize as we celebrate the annual coming together of the pizza universe.

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THE BAR CORNER

The stages of a centuries-old story Fernet -Branca was invented in 1845 and later on it slowly goes out from the Italian borders. In 1907 the company is headed by Dino Branch and leads the company internationally, exporting Fernet in Europe and America and opening new factories in Buenos Aires, St. Louis and Chiasso and also a new branch office in New York. Person of great vitality , seeing that the old distillery Corso Porta Nuova, was no longer enough , he created a larger venue and functional way jagged granite in Milan, where he is still located. Fratelli Branca does not seem to pay for the results achieved , and also attentive to the demands of its global customer base, in 1965 created a revolutionary product to say the least, the Brancamenta, a digestive - quenching, especially great in the summer, alongside his older brother, Fernet, increasing success. But other brothers, that other products are going to support the great house of bitter Line of business: in 1982 the brand he joined the group Family Carpano, well known internationally, and in 1987 the distillery Candolini , Friulian , one of the historic names in the world of Grappa. In recent years , Fratelli Branca has created other new products , but the FernetBranca, the leader of the Italian bitters , remains a jewel appreciated in the world, the true expression not only of genius, but of great and admired entrepreneurial skills of the Italians.


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Sparkling water, let’s start to know it better Italy is the consumption leading country for mineral water

For many years, mineral water is a certainty that can’t fail from being found in the Italian and international catering world, but it is a drink still not well known, not even from the same restaurateurs, chefs, bar tenders and waiters. And even Cooking Schools don’t devote a lot of time to this matter, in order to illustrate their nature, characteristics and effects. So, let’s start from the very beginning, recalling to our mind that mineral water is a type of spring water, usually sold in bottles, respecting all legal requirements.

by Laura Nascinben

In Italy spring water can be sold as Sparkling water only when it answer for the Legislative Criteria of 8 October 2011 n. 176 ( that recognizes for Italy the directive 2009/54 of the European Commission), according to which “ Mineral waters coming from an aquifer or water deposit, come from one or more natural or drilled springs, having particular sanitary characteristics that are favourable for health”. Italy has the primacy of per head consumption, even if, recently there was a hammering call to favour tap water, clearly less expensive, but considered by many not totally safe, given the status of many Italian water mains.

Different types of mineral water The Italian law ( Legislative decree 25 Jan, 1995, n°5) divides marketable mineral waters in two different categories, as follows: a - sparkling mineral water: in which the salinity at 180° is less than 50 mg/lt b - water with a low mineral content (or lightly mineral): in which the fixed salinity is between 50 and 500 mg/lt c - water rich in mineral salts: fixed salinity not higher than 1500 mg/lt

The legislative decree dated 1992, issued for the directive 80/777/CEE, that “ Natural Mineral Water can be distinguished from tap common water for their original purity and its conservation, for their salinity index. They are kept away from any risk of pollution”, this is why mineral water on the market have to offer, and as a matter of facts, they offer, every possible purity warranty and thus of extreme potability of water, with a precise and registered mineral level. Always this decree, along its 21 articles, not only defines the characteristics of spring water to be defined as mineral, but also precises in a detailed way how mineral water can be used, the operations that are allowed and those that are not allowed, what has to be reported on the label to inform correctly the buyer and many other things, as a warranty to the consumers.


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A little bit of history Since ancient times, mineral waters have been used above all for their curative virtues, great proof of this is the much beloved by Romans and Turkish thermal baths. The latter have built a great site in Budapest, the capital city of Hungary, which they conquered in 1526 and then kept until 1683.

Thermal baths have been always used, but above all they were enhanced in the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;700 in all of Europe, as tells us Giacomo Casanova in his memories, from the second half of the past century, with the improvement of the economic condition of families and with the spreading of fears connected with water pollution, made known also by the media, mineral waters have acquired a more important role in everyday nutrition, as well as the world of food service. At present Italy is among the majors water consumers in the world, with a year turnout apx. of two and a half billion euro. This record shared also under the producing aspect, since every year apx. 12 billion mineral water is â&#x20AC;&#x153;producedâ&#x20AC;?. The roots of success met by mineral water are to be traced back not only in the advertisement campaigns of producers,but also in the characteristics above all for health and for purity of water, and also because the water of our river is not totally healthy. One thing remains true and it is because mineral water has entered as fixed presence not only in the whole world of catering but also in the families. In catering, water menus are becoming of common use.


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Mineral water Categorization and features Last month, mineral water was presented generally speaking, dealing more in depth with the European and the Italian set of laws, according to which a certain type of water can be called mineral, only if it is protected and it comes from underground, bacteria free since its origin, and with constant components, never with negative effects whereas only always bottled from the source in safe and controlled containers.

The uniqueness of every mineral water Every mineral water has it own history linked to the ground, because every water comes from certain underground paths different from all the others, during it way up it gains mineral components on the basis of the different areas it went through, that enrich it of its own microbial flora and it particular characteristic, for which in the end, each mineral water has it own different and peculiar flavours. Mineral bottled water, in other words, is that water that comes out from springs or it is taken from deep deposits, anyway protected and uncontaminated and it cannot be treated with interventions. Mineral water, free of bacteria and sheer of contaminants directly at its source, bottled in safe and hygienic containers gets to the consumer just like it came out of the spring. Furthermore, like we will see, with well known therapeutic virtues. In order to be considered mineral and commercialized with this direction, water has to be subjected to a series of precise tests that evaluate its characteristics, hence to obtain the acknowledgement by the Health Board that evaluates the geological studies, the bacteria and chemical-physical analysis none the less the pharmacological experimentations.


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THE COMPLEX WORLD OF

OIL

T

his month, we begin an interesting journey into the vast, and sometimes ambiguous world of oils, trying to do a bit of clarity on their properties, quality, production and their nutritional values. It is fundamental to start this path, the distinction between oil and vegetable fat: with the term "oil" refers to a liquid, while the term "fat" to a solid.

Dott.ssa Marisa Cammarano - biologist nutritionist -

The law allows the use of very vague conditions in indicating the ingredients of a product and often vegetable fat actually refers to eg palm oil. Unfortunately, the confusion is not resolved with the organic answer. Organic products have in many ingredients palm oil (organic!) or "vegetable shortening" unidentified and are not the best quality. There is no need to use palm oil or, worse, "vegetable fat", better butter that does not give rise to doubt about refining. Let's see what happens from the raw material. The quality of the unclear "vegetable fat" are, in fact, further confused by the process. The manufacturing process used to obtain all the oils of seeds not cold-pressed, as is the case for the olives to obtain the extra virgin olive oil, (and therefore the vast majority of seed oils), and the oil d 'virgin olive oil not (the common olive oil) is the refiner or through chemical methods. In the case of refined oil product degrades (loses useful substances, and are formed suspicious substances) may contain trace amounts of solvents, which are then eliminated by distillation, and can be formed, in addition, a small amount of trans fatty acids. It is then made with

the use of edible alkaline substances that lower the acidity, bringing it back to acceptable values. The only "advantage" of a refined oil is that generally has a high smoke point. The oil thus obtained can be used directly in, or can undergo other processes that transform chemically and physically: hydrogenation with which chemically is rendered less degradable an oil (typically making a solid-liquid product); fractionation with which separates the solid portion of an oil; The esterefication with which changes the chemical structure of the fatty acids redistributing them among various lipid sources but without hydrogenated. Obvious that what counts is the final product used as an ingredient of the food, but it is also important to judge the starting product and the manufacturing process. Refining, fractionation and esterefication come to products that are not genuine, however, without the guarantee of not being derived from poor quality oils. In addition, these foods have however a high content of saturated fatty acids, because semisolid at room temperature


food science

and can not exclude a small percentage of trans fatty acids. To summarize the various possibilities, it can be concluded that, although it lacks the hydrogenation process (that is, no mention of hydrogenated vegetable fat or margarine) that would make the bad fat, vegetable fat is still worse than a compound butter. Even in the case of 'oil (since it do not know the starting oil) should be interpreted as that the term that refers to a product comparable to a generic seed oil with the aggravating circumstance that the composition is entirely unknown because there may be a percentage of saturated fats (long chain or medium) is not indifferent. Of great importance to this point, it becomes another factor, the so-called "smoke point". If we submit an oil to a strong temperature increase, the effects of temperature, the oil is first hydrolysed into glycerol and then fatty acid. The degradation of the oil is carried out for the transformation of glycerol (with loss of water) in acrolein (acrylic aldehyde); this phenomenon is visible because the acrolein appears in the form of smoke that leaves the oil. The formation of acrolein is greater the longer the oil is

rich in unsaturated acids (more sensitive to heat), and determining the smoke point. Acrolein is irritating to the gastric mucosa and harmful to the liver: the administration of oil kept the smoke point for two hours causes liver damage easily seen. The polar compounds that are formed during frying (mono and diglycerides, fatty acids, fatty acid dimers and polymerized, dimers and polymerized triglycerides), are an important signal of the state of health of the frying bath. The limit for these compounds, established by ministerial directive of 1991, is 25g / 100g. When frying at home is not exceeded even after 8 fries, conversely frying the restaurant and fast food, the vast proportion of samples exceeding the legal limit. It was also demonstrated that fried foods contain the same percentage of polar compounds of the frying bath and certainly ingest. These compounds appear to have an effect on the oxidation of LDL (Low density lipoprotrein) and therefore on arteriosclerosis. Furthermore, there are other products of oxidative degradation such as aldehydes, cyclic compounds, ketones, hydroperoxides triglycerides seems that may have carci-

p. 105

nogenic effects, cytotoxic, mutagenic. On the basis of what has been said, it is very important to know the smoke point of the oil that is going to use. It is a serious mistake to choose an oil-case based on organoleptic considerations alone. Unfortunately the information circulating are often polluted by commercial interests or blunders. The smoke point depends on the content of free fatty acids. For example, with a content of 0.04%, the smoke point is 220 째 C, while with a content of 1% is 160 째 C. The unrefined oils have much lower smoke points. There are factors may change significantly the smoke point, such as the mixture of different oils, the presence of bacteria, the presence of salt, the heating time (the PF is lowered), the number of times that the oil is used (the PF is lowered), the conservation of the oil (oxygen, light, temperature, etc.), the size and shape of the cooking vessel (the PF is lowered if the frying pan is large), the presence of water (as in the Italian butter; the PF is lowered), the presence of mono and diglycerides (the PF is lowered), the presence of free fatty acids (the PF is lowered).


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FOOD SCIENCE In order to have a healthy fried food, it is important to follow the basic rules emerged from numerous technological studies:

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1. prepare the food being fried, dry them thoroughly to avoid as much as possible the presence of water, which, like salt and spices, facilitate thermal alteration of the oils. Salt and spices should be added to the food after frying.

2. the oil temperature must not exceed 180 째 C. Temperatures above 180 째 C accelerate, in fact, the thermal degradation of oils and fats. You should then get a digital thermometer kitchen.

3. If the oil temperature exceeds 180 째 C, the best thing is to remove the oil, without trying to use it again. In particular, one should not add fresh oil to the oil exposed to high temperature, because the fresh oil alters much more quickly in contact with the oil "stressed" thermally. 4. Agrees replace often (better all the time, without then never use it again) the oil used for frying. At the Department of Science and Technology Agro-Food of the University of Bologna researchers have experimentally compared the behavior of different seed oils in frying. The tests were conducted frying stick frying chips in oil purchased on the market: oil, peanut oil, vitamin-enriched corn seeds, seed oil, corn oil and not vitamin-enriched sunflower (oil has not been evaluated olive oil as notoriously unsuitable for frying, although characterized by a taste for many too strong). From the chemical point of view, the experiment carried out showed no particular elements of degradation after the execution of two consecutive chips fried in oils Corn, vitamin additives and not, and peanut. Sunflower oil appears less advisable as in the second frying was detected in the presence of a potentially toxic compound, which discourages the use of the same oil in two consecutive fries.

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Brand design when judging by appearances is necessary edited by O.L.

Designing a brand for a restaurant is not an unnecessary thing, a mere ornamental aspect, something more to think about at the end of the path which has taken to the opening or restoration of the place. Defining the brand of a restaurant or of a pizzeria means thinking how to plan real marketing strategies, shaping the values on

which the business enterprise is based on. The brand is the group of concrete choices on which business objectives need to be developed, it means to find the right language to transmit once own values, the way through which our idea of catering needs to be developed.


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1 ) how to DEFINE A CONCEPT

For example, we can point out some fundamental elements:

Concept is the starting point for every project, what elaborates the guidelines. For a restaurant or a pizzeria, the philosophy behind the project needs to be clear, in order to define coherently every aspect that leads to the construction of a place. From the selection of a menu to the choice of products, from the definition of spaces ( ample, fluid spaces or small, cosy places, spaces for fast food or for slow food) to the elaboration of a place which tightly represents the brand, the signature that goes on everything from the sign to the menu of the restaurant.

2 ) how to DEVELOPE A PROJECT On the basis of the general idea, the true shapes that create it need to be defined. If, for example the concept of our restaurant is to sell excellent local food and we want to give a cross message to the majority of potential customers, irrespective of their economic means. Above all we need to choose what kind of products we want to use, dividing them in a variety of menus do be savoured in different rooms and ways. Secondly, the place itself, needs to be designed for a long tasting or for a quick drink with flexible and diversified spaces. The entire operations needs to be understood, explained and communicated. All the aspects which determine the appearance of the restaurant need to go back to the initial idea, from the type of tables the sign outside the place, to the choice of the menu and the colour of the table cloths, from the uniform of the staff to the outlay of the restrooms, every single element needs to communicate the basic idea.


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3 ) how to COMMUNICATE Communication is clearly fundamental to create a brand. A brand is a product that is recognized even if it has never been tested. It is not about investing in commercial campaigns, maybe too long and demanding for a business of this type, but rather to constantly look for new ways to make the place known. If our restaurant is a fast food pizzeria than our target is mainly made up by occasional customers, the sign and its colours need to be simple, noticeable, clear, family type, generating a reliability feeling.

4 ) how to INNOVATE Every brand of success makes of innovation a fundamental component. Continuously, we need to create occasions to make the customer curious, keep pace with and anticipate new technologies without distorting once phylosofy, declining it according to the different taste evolution. Offering a service that other restaurants donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t offer or creating a particular event can be starting point to amaze usual customers or have a bigger crowed of people know you. If we are able to elaborate a general idea through which we can build our restaurant thus we have elaborated the project of a brand, communicating it and constantly innovating it becomes essential to create a success brand.


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Enrico Corsini President of the Consortium of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO

Tâ&#x20AC;&#x2030;

raditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO is one of the precious jewels of Italian food sector and as we approach EXPO 2015, which has its main office in Milan, and it is spreading throughout Italy. We wish to offer our readers a more accurate picture of this extraordinary product that helps to keep up in the world the image of our country. If the media dwell on moments often less positive, we believe it is right, even through meetings with important people, to revive the pride that the Italian creative genius has earned over time. Modena, as well as other advantages such as historical, artistic, technical, cultural and productive also has this aristocratic product, which well illustrates the President of the Consorzio, Enrico Corsini. President Enrico Corsini, who chaires the Consortium protects and enhances one of the most fascinating famous Italian food.


p. 113

Can you give us some data on the history of the Consortium, the member companies, the amount of balsamic vinegar product and how it is put on the market?

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

â&#x20AC;&#x153;The production of the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO after the war was being lost, but the promotion by the Consortium of Spilamberto and the establishment of the Palio di San Giovanni fortunately have reinvigorated its tradition of transforming it into a true territorial pride. Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO was recognized in 1987 and obtained the protection of the European PDO in 2000. The consortium for the Protection ABTM was then re-founded in 2003 to resolve difficulties and disagreements between the producers, and I, as president, have always fought to bring peace and tranquility to the sector. I have always considered this essential so that producers, with the support of the institutions themselves, they could devote all available energies to promoting rather than unproductive bickering. It has been a long process but at the end of

above

The president Enrico Corsini below

The brand of the Consortium

2013 we were able, thanks to the directors who have always supported me working with compact and perseverance, to achieve the goal. Just to mention, since 2004, we have always voted unanimously for any decision. To date there are about 160 members, while about 40 other manufacturers are not associated. The amount produced annually is approximately 80,000 100 ml bottles, so they represent a real niche market. The bottles, however, reach the tables of gourmets from all over the world, thanks to the efforts of importers and distributors but also for direct purchase of the increasing number of visitors who arrive in Modena. For this is the second great historical significance of this product: promotes the area and thus all the other products. â&#x20AC;&#x153;


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THE INTERVIEW Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena has many imitations, but this has a specific and unique identity and a very ancient story. Can you tell our readers how it is produced and its characteristics ?

“ Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO has a long story and reliable sources would trace the origin of the tradition at the time of the Romans and their habit of cooking grape must. The particular characteristics of the grapes in our area , in fact, meant that the cooked must still be able to ferment and become sour ( ... “ solet acescere “ ... as the scholar Columella wrote in the 1st century AD). This vinegar then, as obtained for the case was to be truly enjoyed if you then come to the present day. You may think that the vinegar was taken for home consumption from the barrel that contained it, and was then brought back to level again with the must during the harvest. So proceeding, then as today happens from year to year, the average quality of the product tends to improve and is therefore easy to imagine how , starting from this consideration, the richest and most aristocratic families, has been able to develop a process so peculiar as that battery barrels and racking. Before adding it to the other barrels and making them all work together through the process of decanting annual increases dramatically the amount of work but, proportionately, the quality of the vinegar, and then the preciousness of Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO. It starts from the cooked must, single ingredient, obtained by boiling the juice of the grapes produced in the province of Modena. Is engaged with vinegar batteries for some time in business and the barrels are filled with it.


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THE INTERVIEW

At year-end, in cold weather, to compensate for the shortfall caused by the evaporation of all the barrels are reported at the level starting from the smallest and each with a barrel of vinegar in the previous battery. Only the last barrel , said barrel mother, is shown at the level of cooked. This operation must be repeated every year and only after at least 12 years, the battery can reach a sufficient quality to provide a small annual rate of finished product , on average, about 2/3 liters. The product is then transferred to the bottling center and subjected to laboratory tests and tasting of the committee of expert tasters . If he gets the approval will be bottled in the center and returned to the manufacturer in the famous small bottles called “ Giugiaro “ . The uniqueness of this vinegar from the organoleptic point of view is due to its incredible complexity that is expressed with great intensity olfactory harmony with the taste and long lasting aftertaste . E ‘ can transform any dish into a masterpiece.”

Mr. President , is there any story that can really make people understand the enormous value of this extraordinary product?

“Every family has its anecdotes, and there are so many that it is difficult to bring them back , but what really makes the great value of this product is the fact that unites generations of the family handing down traditions and culture. Normally grandchildren consume and sell the product started by grandparents or great-grandparents , and so is that, while the manufacturer gets older, the vinegar into the barrels getting better ... ”


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THE INTERVIEW President Corsini, does this vinegar have aristocratic amateurs abroad? And in which countries do they like it the most?

We know that in past centuries was also produced in the vinegar of the dukes of Este Dukes of Ferrara and Modena. As used it and then use it today as she advises in the kitchen?

And now we just have to enjoy it, as did Henry II, who fully enjoyed the wonderful features of this vinegar..

by Giampiero Rorato

“It’s very difficult to answer this question, in fact our vinegar receives visits from all over the world, or for simple reasons of tourism or for business reasons, and those who visit a vinegar immediately became a lover of this noble vinegar. Normally the producer of Balsamic Vinegar PGI balsamic sell and extol the PDO as the highest expression of the agricultural and food traditions of Modena. So mostly the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena PDO follows the distribution channels of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena. We speak, for starters, the U.S., Canada, Europe in general, the Middle East and Far East, but also in South Africa and in South America; despite the productions so limited, really comes in around the world.” Traditional Balsamic Vinegar was once the exclusive production and tradition of the richest families and aristocratic; more so were the famous vinegar of the Dukes of Este that is, above all, of Modena. This vinegar is produced in several variants quality in the cellars of the Duke, was also used for medicinal purposes (in what is probably the name “balsamic”), but the use in the kitchen was really well-known if the same King Henry II of Franconia he took in 1046 a sample of his chief lord Marquis of Canossa (episode reported in “De Vita Mathildis, 1111 AD). Nowadays, as we had in the past, the Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena DOP is used on virtually all courses, salads, cheeses, from meat to fruit, but it is also a real treat on ice cream and sweets. Quantities used are upon like, but this vinegar is really capable of transforming any scope into a masterpiece, almost a “ thrill “to try ...”


• • • • •

• • • • •


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TOURISM IS THE HAPPY

DISCOVERY OF THE WONDER OF THE WORLD Travelling is a cultural matter and holidays should be carefully planned not to neglect the historical heritage of our World di Gianluca Rorato

T 

he world is full of wonderful places, starting one’s own country of provenience to find out the heritage of natural beauty , archaeological, historical, cultural, existing far away from our home represents not only an important relaxation for the body and the spirit, able to recharge batteries, since it is a valuable enrichment of knowledge that strengthen our own lives. It is everywhere and so there are places that currently it is best to avoid, such as Egypt, Syria, Afghanistan, Libya, Venezuela, Mali, Côte d'Ivoire, all places where they are in the course of the war or popular uprisings. In other countries, especially those where Islam is the state religion, it must then behave very cautious and very respectful of the religious tradition of these peoples. There remain, however, many other pla-

ces of great interest. If France, Spain, England, Austria, Czech Republic and Hungary are much visited by the Italians, in Europe there are other fascinating places that deserve to be included in a program of cultural tourism holidays, such as Portugal, Ireland, Scandinavia, the Baltic Republics, Istria and Dalmatia. It is well known that Brazil and the Caribbean destinations are always welcome and very popular, as Costa Rica and Mexico, each with scenic treasures and architectural heritage of the greatest importance, as well as closer to Italy, is Morocco, really beautiful and fascinating country. China is on the rage and there is no doubt that in this great country, more and more open to tourism and the economy of Western Europe, there's so much to see and learn.


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TOURISM

NOT ONLY THE SEA There are still those who choose to spend holidays away from home for one or more weeks at sea, whether in the Caribbean, of Mauritius, the Seychelles or other similar places, and coming back, you realize you have only seen the resort or the hotel and their tourist restaurants, the sand and the ocean. No serious relationship with the population, no town and village visited, no local restaurant with traditional local dishes. So it would have been much better to go to Apulia, Calabria or Sicily, where the sand is even warmer, the sea and the equally beautiful kitchen among the best in the world. Tourism, even after the crisis of the last few years, much has changed. The tourist has become more demanding, is not content to absorb what goes on tour operators, is more of a curious traveller wants to know where he is, wants the contact with the people of the places where it comes from, he wants to know the history, traditions and culture; visit the museums where we are; buy local products.

It can be said that the number of tourists-conscious travellers is on the increase, with huge benefits for both the tourist himself that the country chosen for their holidays. So not only the sea, but also the people, festivals, culture, art, how to tell the real life of the place visited. The sea, of course; also the tan, of course, but miss the opportunity to get to know the country of our holidays would be an unforgivable act of true myopia. Living tourism in this new way â&#x20AC;&#x201C; keep in mind that you can also live by visiting an area not far from home and in their own country - an important element is cuisine. We wrote last month and is also made explicit by the articles on the "Cuisine of others," published in this journal by Caterina Vianello that food culture is an essential element of tourism and learning about the cuisine of others (not the one for tourists, but that of residents), to understand it, to enjoy it is a pleasure that makes it even more beautiful, rich and worthy of being remembered our holiday.

KNOWING OURSELVES Tourism is like a great mirror. When we travel as tourists it is as if we we looked in the mirror and not see for ourselves but to see differences between ourselves and others, the different ways of dressing, eating, working, organizing a day of fun, as tell the different type of civilization, different culture, different knowledge, different behaviours. Discovering these differences also leads us to know each other better and respect each other, enriching humanity. In the morning when we look in the mirror we see ourselves as we appear (not who we are and how we are); watching the inhabitants of another country can deal with, grasp the diversity and understand who we really are.

Tourism, therefore, is not only fun - even though the holidays are mainly used for this, to pull the plug, to move more freely, without conditions - but it's true culture and needs to be lived in this perspective that helps us to grow as people.


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SCUOLA ITALIANA

PIZZAIOLI

Contacts Via Sansonessa, 49 30021 Caorle (Venice) tel. 0039 (0)421-83.148 fax. 0039 (0)421-81007 info@scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it

www.pizzaschool.it www.scuolaitalianapizzaioli.it

CERTIFICATE N째 IT 11/0050


TECHNICAL SPONSORS

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S

cuola Italiana Pizzaioli is born in the late 80s. Since the beginning the school was created to teach one for the most beautiful artisanal jobs, combining a technical and scientific approach with the continue research most modern technologies and for the passion of working with the dough. Our story starts in Caorle, in the municipality of Venice, where the national headquarter can still be found at present, and from there it has been developed also throughout Italy and in 6 foreign countries, Usa, Germany, France, Japan, Australia and Luxemburg.

The passion for pizza The passion for making a good pizza and being able to transmit it to others is the ground for the school’s work, which pushes to experiment, to know, to learn and to spread out what we know to all those who wish to learn the profession of pizzaiolo. Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli one of the first to develop two different types of course (basic and specialized) along side with the practical part there is also theory, a serious and professional approach to a job that for its complexity needs study, application and passion. Our lessons enable the future pizzamaker not only to make dough mixes on

The expert’s advice the bases of the recipes given during the courses, but also to gain a knowledge of the different results that can be obtained on the basis of wished variations (for example the choice of a different flour) or unexpected things that can happen every day, for example the weather change situations that can happen during professional life. You can find us also in the most known food sector exhibitions both in Italy and abroad, because we are convinced that confrontation with other countries makes us grow and makes us better every day. Passion, professional work, experience, these is what we believe in.

Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli is part of a group which has gained a 360° experience in the sector of pizza, from teaching to the laboratorial production of great dimensions, from the design of new restaurant concepts to the managing of franchising chains, both in Italy and abroad. Our panel of experts, all professionals in the sector, have the capability to face, together with the staff of national headquarter staff, any request. Making of dough mixes, from the most difficult to the easiest, recipe books (even suitable for the local food culture), product sheets, side work both in the phases of pre opening and of start up, elaboration and problem solving, our 20 year long experience allow us to face and solve with trust a great range of problems and opportunities. The key people of our organization put at disposal of the customer their skills to reach the fixed objective in a short time, avoiding costs determined by inexperience. The advice of an expert can be about the realization of a project, the realization of a specific dough mix, or even more the creation of a final product able to satisfy the request of the client.


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Project back up

Technical and product consultancy

Some examples: design of a pizzeria shop; organization of centralized production, both of fresh and frozen product; organization of production in the single pizzeria; organization of the work force; check up of costs and management.

Some examples of a specific dough mix (classic pizza, Neapolitan pizza…); verification and calibration of a specific dough mix; creation of specific and exclusive recipes; research of equipment, raw materials (in particular for foreign countries).

CERTIFICATE N° IT 11/0050

Headquarters in Italy: CAORLE (Ve) Main Headquarters ——————————— ALESSANDRIA Momperone ——————————— BELLUNO c/o Ass. Tec Attrezzature ——————————— BENEVENTO ——————————— BRESCIA c/o Forni Ceky ——————————— COMO Turate ——————————— FLORENCE Reggello c/o Forni Valoriani ——————————— FOGGIA ——————————— GENOVA ——————————— L’AQUILA ——————————— LECCE ——————————— LIVORNO ——————————— MASSA CARRARA

ROME Ostia ——————————— MODENA c/o Forni Pavesi Modena ——————————— NAPOLI ——————————— PADOVA ——————————— PARMA ——————————— POTENZA ——————————— SALERNO ——————————— TERAMO ——————————— TERRACINA Fondi ——————————— TRIESTE ——————————— VERONA c/o Zanolli Forni ——————————— VIAREGGIO ——————————— VICENZA


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Our teachers

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cuola Italiana Pizzaioli, already in the possession of the Certification of Quality Sgs Certification nr IT11/0050, has acquired now also the certification for the Training of its Master Instructors. Each school teacher and Master Instructor has followed a certified training course. The Master Instructor of Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli is a professional teacher who is selected through a long course of highly qualified training. The motivation for this route scientifically rigorous and highly professionalizing is to further improve the skills of Master Instructors representing Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli, obtaining therefore of teaching to prospective students and to those who will take advantage of our professionalism, increasingly qualitatively high. The first selection is based on the curriculum vitae of the person, and after one or more cognitive interviews. Afterwards the training begins, which starts from learning of our teaching method, then move on to specialized courses and that continues with the course called â&#x20AC;&#x153;Training Course Certificationâ&#x20AC;?. The Training Course Certificate is aimed to complete the curriculum of our aspiring instructors with path by excellent professionals outside our company who, at the end of each day of training, level of the participants through severe tests. The training program includes, in

addition to rigorous insights on white art, catering, store management also a session with a specialist of human resources: the Master Instructor must have personal qualities of leaders, showing the authorities by reason of competence (technical) and charisma. The teacher must know how to hold a lesson, involving , hold a lesson, involving all its pupils and /or contributors, and transmit all his knowledge. Sections followed by rigorous theoretical and practical test assessing: test with a high threshold is exceeded, so as to guarantee a serious examination, rigorous and accurate to the degree of learning of the topics addressed. The reliability and consistency of the course is verified by an ISO 9001 certification body. Only those who, at the end of this course, will have pass the tests and the final assessment given by a Technical Committee, will be able to boast the title of training course for Master Pizza Instructor with certificate and work with Scuola Italiana Pizzaioli. For all those who wish to approach our formative reality, the training course for Master Pizza Instructor represents is the will to enrich themselves personally and professionally and the desire to become a teacher in your country and city, do not have to do is contact us for the purpose of an interview, by which we can determine whether there are or not hesitate to the conditions for a shared path.


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Headquarters abroad: U.S.A. San Francisco - New York ——————— JAPAN Tokyo ——————— LUXEMBOURG Steinsel ——————— GERMANY Frankfurt ——————— FRANCE Lione Lille Chalone sur Saone Paris Chamonix Mont Blanc La Chapelle sur Erdre ——————— AUSTRALIA Sidney Melbourne ———————

Collaborations: MANTOVA c/o Sanfelici Conserve ——————————— c/o Oem Ovens


BREAD, PASTA, PIZZA

THE GOOD ITALIAN FLOURS

GMI, the leading Italian milling group, brings you the Frumenta line: a range of top-quality flours for catering professionals and artisan bakers who are well aware of just how important it is to use quality raw materials when creating traditional Italian products. the prime ingredient GRANDI MOLINI ITALIANI SPA Head Office - Italy - 45100 Rovigo - Via Aldo Moro, 6 - Ph. +39 0425 209111 - info@grandimolini.it

Pizza e Pasta Italiana - English version  

Pizza e Pasta Italiana 2015

Pizza e Pasta Italiana - English version  

Pizza e Pasta Italiana 2015