The yearâ€™s most important watch stories | Retro trends and relaunches | Diamond theme | The ABC of watches Meet three Danish goldsmiths in their workshops | Seasonal jewellery in every colour of the rainbow | Competition
Watches & Jewellery
39° 35’ 0.478” S 71° 32’ 23.564” W
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Montblanc 1858 Geosphere montblanc.com Danske forhandlere - se på houseofexcellence.dk
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Watches & Jewellery
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The Breitling The Breitling Surfer Squad Surfer Squad Sally Fitzgibbons Sally Fitzgibbons Kelly Slater Kelly Slater Stephanie Stephanie Gilmore Gilmore
#SQUADONAMISSION #SQUADONAMISSION September 2019 · Advertising supplement · 5
Watches & Jewellery
10.08am on Fifth Avenue. N 40° 43’ 53.1’’ W 73° 59’ 49.1’’. Freak Collection
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Østergade 26 - 1100 København supplement K - Tel: 33152422 September 2019 · Advertising ·7
Watches & Jewellery
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ORDRUPVEJ 56 CHARLOTTENLUND
STRANDVEJEN 163 HELLERUP
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Watches & Jewellery
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When you’ve been making watches for as long as we have, some things just come naturally.
Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115
KØBENHAVN K: Bucherer Illum KØBENHAVN S: Bonell’s BALLERUP: Ballerup Ure, Guld & Sølv HØRSHOLM: Sarøe Smykker & Ure HILLERØD: Jan Ehlers ROSKILDE: Svend’s Ure NÆSTVED: Borup Design ODENSE C: Ragnar Ure & Juveler. VEJLE: Sct. Nicolai Ure STRUER: Profil Optik SKIVE: Østergaard AARHUS C: Knud Pedersen • Sct. Mathias Ure & Guld SKANDERBORG: Hugo Mortensen HORSENS: Poul Halse VIBORG: Sct. Mathias Ure & Guld AALBORG: Klitgaard Ure • Henrik Ørsnes HJØRRING: Byens Ure & Smykker Distributor Denmark, September 2019 · Advertising supplement · 11 Norway and Sweden: Stæhr A/S. +45 45269100 • firstname.lastname@example.org • www.oris.ch
Watches & Jewellery
JÆGERSBORG ALLÉ 25 | DK-2920 CHARLOTTENLUND | TEL +45 28 10 76 76 | BOUTIQUE@BOLOU.DK | WWW.BOLOU.DK |
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MUSEUM ® CLASSIC MESH MOVADO.COM
Watches & Jewellery
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Come with us to Geneva and Basel
New items, classics and relaunches
32 Diving watches
124 Pilots’ watches
Retro trends, women divers and the
Breitling’s DNA and around the world with IWC
story of the first diving watch 138 Smart watches 46 The sorcerer’s workshop
For golf, mountaineering and the outdoor life
A visit to three Danish goldsmiths 142 The ABC of watches
54 The ambassadors
How a mechanical watch works
Celebs and luxury watches go well together 146 Reader service
62 Dress watches Precious materials, beautiful dials and wild complications 82 Diamond theme Glittering jewellery and investment opportunities 98 Interview:
The Dane behind Urban Jürgensen
100 Going, going...
Vintage watches hit new records
colophon Editor-in-chief Henning Andersen / email@example.com
Graphic design & project management Mogens Lauridsen / firstname.lastname@example.org
Sales & project management Jan Poulsen / email@example.com
Front cover Montblanc Heritage Monopusher Chronograph (ref. 119951). Price DKK 36,830
The next issue of Watches & Jewellery will be published in September 2020.
Text & editorial Kåre Peitersen / firstname.lastname@example.org
Printer Printconnect Aps / www.printconnect.dk
PartnerMedier can accept no responsibility for printing errors or colour deviations.
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A wristwatch says something about the times in which we live, but quite often, it can also tell us something about the past. There are retro and vintage trends everywhere, and these days a great many watches are inspired by past eras or by historical models. The inspiration may derive from the diving watches of the 1960s, the chronographs of the 1970s, or the early pilots’ watches of the 1920s, but there are also plenty of relaunches and reinterpretations of specific models, such as Cartier’s Santos, Zenith’s El Primero or Omega’s moon watch. It is a permanent part of the philosophy of the watchmaking brands to exploit and reinterpret their heritage, and – don’t get me wrong – this usually results in watches that are beautiful, fascinating and, not least, popular. But once in a while you might think it could be nice to see a few more new designs and some modern, maybe even wild, ideas. And it does sometimes happen that a brand will switch tracks and try out some completely new ideas, with both an update of the technical contents and a whole new expression in the design. But this can be a risky business towards the typically very loyal fan base – just ask Audemars Piguet, who met with a very mixed reception at SIHH in Geneva for their new collection Code 11.59, which the brand had spent many years developing. Personally,
Photo: Andreas Bro
Back to the future
I’m not entirely sold on the concept and would still prefer a Royal Oak, but whatever you think of Code 11.59, you have to take your hat off to Audemars Piguet for taking a chance and exploring completely new paths. When it comes to jewellery, there are, if possible, even more design options than in the watch world. Some people like pure minimalism, others elaborate or figurative designs. Common to most jewellery pieces, however, is that they often mark a life event of some kind, and in doing so relate to history – on a very personal level. Here at Watches & Jewellery we have assembled a wide range of both watches and jewellery to give you an overview of the current trends. Here you can for example meet some of the Danish goldsmiths who are keeping the craft alive and still make unique jewellery by hand – but supported by modern technology. You can also come with us to the watch fairs of Geneva and Basel, and hear the stories behind some of the great classics of watch history – several of which are celebrating their half-century anniversaries this year. So whether you are into retro design or prefer very modern lines in your jewellery and watches, we hope you enjoy the magazine!
Editorial September 2019 · Advertising supplement · 17
Kåre Peitersen, journalist & editor
Watches & Jewellery
Earrings from Lund Copenhagen, silver with topaz. Price DKK 475
Peekaboo bracelet from Bucherer, silver with aquamarine. Price DKK 14,800
Rado True Thinline My Bird Limited Edition (1,001 pcs.). Price DKK 19,400
The September sky is bright blue – and here you will find the jewellery and watches to match.
Bolou multi-coloured wing earrings in 18 kt. white gold with diamonds, sapphires and tsavorites. Price DKK 5,600
Alexandria rings from P. Hertz in 14 kt. white gold with blue sapphire or aquamarine, plus brilliant-cut diamonds (total 0.50 ct.). Price DKK 42,500 (sapphire), DKK 28,500 (aquamarine)
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Olivia Burton (ref. OB16BF23). Price DKK 895
Watches & Jewellery
H. Moser & Cie. showcased a concept in which small plants grew out of the dial as a symbol of the green realignment of the independent watch brand.
Vacheron Constantin made an impression with this model with perpetual calendar and an incredible 65-day power reserve (!). Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar (ref. 3200T/000P-B578) Price EUR 210,000 plus VAT
On a visit to the IWC stand .
By Kåre Peitersen
FROM THE HALLOWED HALLS SIHH in Geneva is the watch world’s answer to fashion week in Milan. Instead of a catwalk, there are exclusively decorated stands, where the leading Swiss watch brands showcase their creations to dealers, journalists and collectors. Standing in Geneva’s Palexpo centre at lunchtime one day in late January, you might be forgiven for thinking you had wandered into a very large Michelin restaurant – where it is impossible to get a table. And where the exuberant, talkative and extremely well-dressed people who have been lucky enough to get one are partaking of delicate and beautifully prepared servings of everything from canapes and foie gras to fish dishes and colourful desserts. All washed down with champagne – always champagne.
Record year for SIHH But in fact, it’s ‘just’ a watch fair show that is in full
swing. And as SIHH is one of the most important of its kind, and both food and drink are included in the exclusive invitation-only event, there’s no need to hold back while networking. SIHH is an acronym for Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, and you can almost sense from the name alone that it must be an exclusive affair. The ‘salon’ designation is perhaps a touch disingenuous, because in the 29 years of the fair’s history, it has grown extremely large. This year it stretched over four days in January, and a record number of 23,000 visitors visited the no less than 35 watch brands present – mostly from the Richmont group, which includes luxury brands such as Cartier, IWC
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and Panerai, but also from independent brands such as Greubel Forsey, MB&F, Ressence, H. Moser & Cie and Urwerk. All of SIHH buzzes with life from morning to night, with a myriad of dealers, watchmakers, journalists, collectors and celebrities moving in and out among the individual stands. And there’s plenty to see, when the watch brands present the new products that typically won’t reach the Danish shops before the summer or autumn. The trends this year include perpetual calendars and sustainable initiatives – and the line between classic men’s and ladies’ watches seems to be blurring.
Shaping emotions since 1834
KØBMAGERGADE 34 · 1150 KØBENHAVN K · WWW.PHERTZ.DK
Watches & Jewellery
By Kåre Peitersen
THE WORLD’S BIGGEST WATCH FAIR The Baselworld watch fair in Basel, Switzerland is a wealth of watches, jewellery, celebrities – and fast meetings. People from all over the world gather for just under a week to see the season’s new items from the world’s leading watch and jewellery brands.
For years – indeed, for decades – Baselworld has been the world’s largest and most important watch and jewellery trade fair. If we ignore the breakaways in the Richemont group, who have been running their own watch fair, SIHH, in Geneva for 30 years, Baselworld has been the place to be, whether you were a small upand-coming brand or one of the big players like Rolex, Seiko or Breitling. But this year was different. The world’s largest watch manufacturer is the Swatch Group, responsible for Swatch, Longines and not least Omega – and they had chosen to withdraw. At the same time, or as a consequence of this, many smaller watch and jewellery brands also began to cancel at an alarming rate. The number of exhibitors was down almost one-third on just a handful of years ago, which meant that there was quite literally plenty of room in the halls.
The Swiss watch industry is growing
Visiting the independent Oris brand.
Paradoxically, this is not a sign of an industry in crisis – on the contrary, total turnover in the Swiss watch brands grew last year to a staggering DKK 143 billion. However, the number of units fell slightly to 23.7 million watches, corresponding to an average price of around DKK 6,000. The individual watches have thus become a little more expensive. So who are
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the buyers? 50% of the Swiss exports go to Asia, where China, Hong Kong and Japan are naturally the big markets– and all three areas are in growth. At the same time, the markets in countries like the US and Germany are also growing, so these are in many ways good times for the brands.
The trends in Basel There were not many revolutionary new items at Baselworld, but plenty of exciting models. A clear trend was the many retro-inspired designs from brands such as Tudor, TAG Heuer, Oris, Gucci, Carl F. Bucherer and Bulova, to name just a few. The colour range has been expanded to encompass a variety of shades of grey and green, as well as vintage-inspired tones of champagne and salmon pink. And there were plenty of examples of brands that are adjusting, refining and developing their existing designs without making a big deal out of it – such as the ever-popular Rolex and Patek Philippe. From 2020 on, Baselworld will also be co-ordinated with the SIHH fair in Geneva, so that they will lie in direct continuation of each other from the end of April onwards – and since both fairs are now open to the public, there is thereby ample reason for watch-lovers to take a little spring break in Switzerland.
Watches & Jewellery
Gucci, Bulova and Casio have all gone time travelling back to the eighties, and the result is three terrific retro watches.
Bulova returns to digital watches When electronic watches first began to appear around 1980, Bulova was one of the first to create a pure LED watch, the Computron. It looked almost like something from the TV series Knight Rider – you know, the one where David Hasselhoff fights crime with the help of his car, which seems to have a higher IQ than he does. This year, the USSwiss brand has decided to re-launch Computron in an updated version, and the result is sheer retro joy, with three variants in steel, black and, as here, PVD gold. In keeping with the original model, the display is angled, making it easier to read the time while you are cruising in your car. Bulova Computron (ref. 97C110). Price DKK 3,195
Luxury G-shock edition
Gucci inspired by skater culture Gucci has always been several steps ahead of the other fashion houses when it comes to watches, as the Italian brand has been producing good-quality Swiss-made watches since the 1970s – and it is precisely the 1970s US skateboarding culture that has inspired this year’s collection, Grip. It was a time rich with jump hour watches and other digital ways to show the time, and Gucci has now rediscovered this, so that with the Grip watches you read the time with the hours at the top, the minutes just below, and the date at the bottom. There are four variants in steel and PVD gold, but thanks to a myriad of straps and chains, there is also plenty of opportunity to create your own personal expression. Grip measures 35 mm and is driven by a Swiss quartz movement. Gucci Grip (ref. YA157405). Price DKK 10,100
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Last year, Casio launched two limited editions to mark the 35th anniversary of the first G-Shock watch in 1983, and as something completely new, they were in pure steel (and PVD gilded steel). They become such a big hit that they quickly sold out, and have since risen quite sharply in price in the used watches market. But now, fortunately, the company has produced an almost faithful copy, differing only in that the display has become negative, with bright numbers on a dark background – which just looks even more cool. You still get a shockproof case and water resistance down to 200 metres, as well as a built-in light, alarm, stopwatch, world timer and the possibility to communicate with your smartphone. And you don’t need to worry about the battery, because the watch recharges through sunlight. Casio G-Shock (ref. GMW-B5000GD-9ER). Price DKK 6,495
MASTER OF MATERIALS
RADO CAPTAIN COOK INSPIRED BY OUR VINTAGE ORIGINAL. SERIOUSLY IRRESISTIBLE.
Watches & Jewellery
Panthère de Cartier in gold (22 x 30 mm) with quartz movement (ref. WGPN0008). Price DKK 150,000
Chopard Happy Sport Oval (31 mm) in rose gold (ref. 275362-5004). Price DKK 191,000
Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori (33 mm) in rose gold with cabochon-cut rubellite (ref. 103145). Price DKK 178,000
Olivia Burton with quartz movement and mesh strap (ref. OB16AM161). Price DKK 1,750
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Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust (31 mm) automatic (ref. 278271). Price DKK 68,600
Collier DKK. 6.700,-
Earrings DKK. 10.500,-
NB! No guarantee for printing errors and price changes.
8 kt gold with freshwaterpearls and diamonds
Watches & Jewellery
Twister ring from Ghita Ring & Katrine Salmon, in 14 kt. gold with Tahitian pearls. Price DKK 8,500
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Hope signet ring (men’s) from Alexander Lynggaard, in sterling silver with malachite. Price DKK 1,800
Gucci Timeless watch in 18 kt. gold with malachite dial. 38 mm with automatic movement. (ref. YA1264134). Price DKK 108,650
Amazon bracelet from Alexander Lynggaard in African turquoise (6 mm). Price DKK 600
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 mm in oyster steel and 18 kt. gold (ref. 278273). Price DKK 82,050
Eternity ring from Lund Copenhagen, in 8 kt. white gold with emeralds. Price DKK 1,925 Lotus ring from Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen, in 18 kt. red gold with peridot. Price DKK 25,500
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Watches & Jewellery
Bucherer B Dimension bracelet in 18 kt. white gold with 81 diamonds (total 0.47 ct.). Price DKK 22,400
Broad Click bracelet from Ghita Ring & Katrine Salmon, in 14 kt. white gold with five 0.02 ct. brilliant-cut diamonds. Price DKK 42,000
The season’s bracelets in silver and white gold
Globe bracelet from Christine Hvelplund in 18 kt. white gold with a total of 0.45 ct. diamonds. Price DKK 27,000
Bracelet from Lund Copenhagen, silver with topaz. Price DKK 395
Giga bracelet from Ole Lynggaard, in polished sterling silver. Price DKK 12,400
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Por te Á Gauche is located at Christianshavn in Central Copenhagen, close to one of the office areas. Due to this the selction of clothes that can be used as workwear and more formal settings is big.
FALL MOOD IN PORTE À GAUCHE Fall mood has arrived at the store, not the least visible through the season´s beautifull colour palet, with rust red, curry yellow, navy and other beautilfull fall nuances. You can browse and buy our big selction at www.porteagauche.dk
GET HELP TO FIND YOUR OWN STYLE In the cozy store close to some of Copenhagen´s canals you can find a great selction of clothing for everyday and workwear as well as for more festive settings and our level of personal service is in a league of it´s own. Karina receives the customers herself in the cozy store, and use her background as a designer and stylist when she helps the customers find their own style.You can book a FREE one-to-one styling session in the store and online.
Porte À Gauche,Torvegade 20, Christanshavn,Tlf.+4532540140 Shop online www.porteagauche.dk
By Kåre Peitersen
Diving watches are always some of the most popular models, and any watch brand with sporty ambitions has one or more series on offer. This year’s new models cover a wide range – from pure retro design and relaunches to hi-tech materials and innovative collaborations focusing on the marine environment.
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Oris, from their campaign for the Great Barrier Reef limited edition (see page 38).
Your very own devil ray This year’s Carl F. Bucher ScubaTec Diver Collection has been expanded with a limited edition that is not only beautifully designed but also supports a good cause through the brand’s collaboration with the Manta Trust, which aims to help create sustainable marine environments where the world’s populations of giant devil rays can thrive. The watch measures 44.6 mm and is made of DLC-coated black titanium. It is water resistant down to 500 metres, and the strap is made of recycled PET bottles. Only 188 of them have been made, and each watch is unique because the back of the case is engraved differently. All devil rays have a unique pattern of dots on their abdomens that can be used to identify them – much like our own fingerprints. In connection with the work of the Manta Trust, pictures of 188 different devil rays have been taken, each of which has provided the model for a watch. If you buy one of these watches, you will also have the chance to name and follow ‘your’ devil ray through a personal login at www.watchmymanta.com. Bell & Ross Diver Green Bronze 300 m limited edition (999 pcs.) (ref. BR0392-D-G-BR/SCA). Price DKK 29,250
French temptations French Bell & Ross is a relatively young watch brand that started production in Switzerland in 1992. From the very beginning, the brand’s focus has been on producing toolwatches with clear design inspiration from the world of the military and aviation. And although they also make classic round watches, it is the square basic shape with the inner circle that has become their trademark. This also applies to this year’s new diving watch, which garnered appropriate attention at Baselworld. It comes both in a completely black version and in this elegant bronze version with a matte green dial. The watch measures 42 mm and comes with both a khaki leather strap and a rubber strap. Bell & Ross Diver Green Bronze 300 m limited edition (999 pcs.) (ref. BR0392-D-G-BR/SCA). Price DKK 29,250
New Yacht-Master in white gold Strictly speaking, the new Yacht-Master is designed to be used above the water surface, not below it, but even the most experienced skipper can take a tumble overboard once in a while, so it is smart if your watch has both a rubber strap and a water resistant case. The 42 mm watch is in white gold, while the bezel (which can turn both ways) has ceramic inserts with characteristic raised minute markers. The movement is a calibre 3235, providing a 70-hour power reserve. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 (ref. 226659). Price DKK 197,650
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Rado launches Captain Cook As far back as the early 1960s, Rado was already well represented on the diving watch front with the Captain Cook series, named after the famous British explorer of the 18th century. Now the company is breathing new life into the series with this limited edition, which remains true to the spirit of the model designs of the 1960’s. The watch is in a unisex design and measures 40.6 mm. It is water-resistant down to 220 m, and is accompanied by a gorgeous retro bracelet. Inside the case is a classic ETA movement with an 80-hour power reserve. Rado Tradition Captain Cook MKII limited edition (1,962 pcs.) (ref. 763.0522.3.015). Price DKK 16,300
Seiko diving watch with Spring Drive When Seiko’s re-launch of the 50-year-old Prospex last year was rewarded with the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève for best sports watch, it was a huge feather in the cap of the Japanese brand. This year the company is once again aiming for the top with three new Prospex LX watches, which, as an innovation, have been given Seiko’s famous 5R Spring Drive calibre, which gives the watches a precision of +/- 15 seconds per month and a power reserve of 72 hours. The design of the 44.8 mm watch has been assigned to Japanese Ken Okuyama, who has previously led the design department of both Porsche and Ferrari. Seiko Prospex LX Spring Drive (ref. SNR029). Price DKK 58,795
'I love the smell of napalm in the morning…’ If you’ve ever seen the 1979 Francis Ford Coppola film Apocalypse Now, you may have noticed that the main character, Captain Willard, played by Martin Sheen, wore a Seiko watch on his journey into the heart of darkness. The 40-year-old model subsequently acquired cult status, and for the anniversary, Seiko has decided to relaunch it in an updated version. The design is true to the original, but the case is slightly bigger (45 mm), and inside is now a calibre 8L35 movement with a 50-hour power reserve. Seiko Prospex 1970 Diver’s Recreation limited edition (2,500 pcs.) (ref. SLA003J1). Price DKK 37,795
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New Danish diving watch on the way This autumn, About Vintage is launching their very first diving watch. The young Danish brand has otherwise mainly concentrated on dress watches and chronographs, but now the time has come for a real diving watch with water resistance down to 200 metres, with the newly-developed Japanese Time Module quartz movement inside. About Vintage always names its collections after important years in watch history, and ‘1926’ is a nod to the year in which the first waterproof Rolex Oyster was produced. About Vintage 1926 AT’SEA. Price approx. DKK 3,000
For both women and men The diving watches in the Longines HydroConquest collection are distinguished by the fact that they come in several colours and sizes, so you can easily find a model that matches your needs – here 41 mm with a grey sunburst dial. Inside is an automatic ETA movement with a 64-hour power reserve. Longines HydroConquest (ref. L3.7220.127.116.11). Price DKK 10,200
60 years of sea turtles It is 60 years since Certina began using the sea turtle as a logo on the back of its DS watches, and at the same time the Sea Turtle Conservancy is celebrating its 60th birthday. The double anniversary is being marked with this 43 mm diving watch, which is water resistant down to 300 metres and equipped with an automatic ETA Powermatic movement that provides 80 hours of power reserve. A portion of the proceeds from the sales goes to support the Sea Turtle Conservancy. Certina DS Action Diver Sea Turtle (ref. C032.407.17.051.60). Price DKK 6,600
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On land, at sea and in the air Victorinox can do much more than make Swiss Army knives, and since 1989 their sporty watch collections have been a hit for anyone with a passion for the outdoor life. One of their most popular series is I.N.O.X, which comes in many versions, including, this year, an actual diving watch. You get a gorgeous matte finish on the sandblasted 45 mm steel case, which can take more rough treatment than most watches. The movement is Swiss quartz, while the strap is braided parachute cord. Victorinox I.N.O.X. Professional Diver (ref. 241843). Price DKK 5,595
The devil’s diving watch The Oceanographer diving collection of the US watch brand Bulova was first launched in 1972, and because the dial bore the inscription 666 ft (as it was water resistant down to this depth, about 200 metres), it was quickly nicknamed the ‘Devil Diver’, after the supposed 666 number of the Beast of Revelations. However, there is nothing terribly occult or sinful about this watch, which has always represented sensible value for money, as a diving watch that can be used both in daily life and for a trip beneath the waves. Last year the collection was relaunched, and this year it has been expanded with two variants, with a blue and a green dial, respectively. Inside is an automatic Japanese Miyota movement. Bulova Oceanographer (ref. 96B321). Price DKK 6,495
Inspired by sharks Panerai’s range of professional diving watches is being expanded this year with two steel models which boast a ceramic bezel and a modest diameter – for Panerei – of 42 mm. Which is fine, because it means those of us with slim wrists can also join in. The colour and coarse structure of the dial call forth associations with sharkskin, and you will have ample opportunity to go down and swim with the sharks, as the watch is water resistant down to 300 metres. Panerai itself is responsible for the movement (cal. OP XXXIV), which provides an impressive three days of power reserve. Panerai Submersible (ref. PAM00959). Price on request.
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By Kåre Peitersen
DIVING WATCHES HELP THE CORAL REEF
Oris has long supported organisations and projects that work to protect the marine environment. One of this year’s new limited editions is helping to preserve and rebuild the coral reef off the coast of Australia. The independent watch brand Oris has long been strong on diving watches and has had a mission to support non-profit organisations working to improve the marine environment around the world. 2019 is fortunately no exception, as one of the finest new items of the year is this azure-blue limited edition model, which is intended to help focus attention on conditions in and around the world’s largest coral reef, the Great Barrier Reef of Australia. The reef is suffering from the effects of climate change and needs help, which is why Oris has partnered with the Coral Restoration Foundation, which works to grow and plant out new corals. Stewart Christie is the head of the Coral Restoration Foundation, and he is in no doubt about the importance of fighting for the reef’s survival: “The Great Barrier Reef is almost 8,000 years old and is the largest of its kind in the world.
Oris Great Barrier Reef limited edition III (2,000 pcs.) (ref. 743.7734.4185). Price DKK 17,900
The Coral Restoration Foundation The Foundation attempts to grow more corals that can later be planted out.
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It protects approximately 2,300 km of coastline and contains one of the world’s most biodiverse coastal environments in relation to fish, turtles, sharks, rays and hundreds of different corals. It is also on UNESCO’s World Heritage list and acts as a barometer for the health of the entire globe – so if we humans are not willing to fight to preserve this area, what else are we willing to give up?” he said at the launch. The new Great Barrier Reef limited edition is the third edition of the model. It measures 43.5 mm and is water resistant to a depth of 300 metres. On the back of the case are engraved the constellation of the Southern Cross and the type of coral that is being helped by the project.
You can see more at www.oris.ch and www.coralrestoration.org
Georg Jensen 18kt Fusion Open Pendant pavé setting 0,22ct DKK 13,975
Georg Jensen 18kt Fusion Ring. Model shown with 0.16 ct. Total DKK 24,925
Georg Jensen 18kt Large Fusion Earhoop with 0,21ct DKK 18,975
Georg Jesnen 18kt Fusion Open Earhoop DKK 7,500
Slotsgade 21 · 3400 Hillerød · Tel 48 26 03 31 www.janehlers.dk · e-mail: email@example.com
Jaguar Jaguar is one of the smaller Swiss brands, producing Swiss-made watches at a price most people can afford. This 34 mm lady’s model in steel is water resistant down to 200 metres and comes with a screw-down crown, sapphire glass and quartz movement with date display function. Jaguar Executive Lady Diver (ref. J870/4). Price DKK 2,998
LADIES’ DIVING WATCHES Even though the boundary line between men’s and women’s watches is fast dissolving, there are nonetheless a number of dedicated ladies’ models for those of you who like a raw but feminine expression.
Breitling Breitling’s SuperOcean collection first saw the light of day in 1957, so it is a tradition-rich example. It also has a very broad spectrum, as this year models were launched in five sizes, so there is something for every wrist (48, 46, 44, 42 and 36 mm). Here you see the light blue ladies’ model, which is water resistant to a depth of 200 metres and is built on Breitling’s own calibre 17 movement. It is COSC-certified, with a power reserve of 38 hours. Breitling SuperOcean Automatic 36 (ref. A17316D81C1S1 Price DKK 24,200
Carl F. Bucherer This year, Carl F. Bucherer is going for the pure summer look with three delicate beach colours on the straps of the brand’s ladies’ diving watches. One of them is this attractive ‘ocean’ shade. The watch measures 36.5 mm, has automatic winding and is water resistant to a depth of 200 metres. Carl F. Bucherer Patravi ScubaTec Lady (ref. 00.10634.23.23.02). Price DKK 33,500
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1919 Navy Diver
is a collection of the first divers watch by Ole Mathiesen inspired by the silent world under the sea.
Twigs by Per Borup A popular Feminine collection. With the rustic twigs haped details, and the magic light of diamonds.
Tennis Flex Unvisible springs create a uniquediamond jewellery collection. Silhouette Schmuck
THE STORY OF THE
DIVING WATCH The history of the diving watch is closely connected to Rolex and starts in a way in 1926, when Mercedes Gleitze attempted to swim the English Channel with a Rolex Oyster on her wrist. This was not a diving watch as we know it, but rather a dress watch – but it was made with a sealed case to allow it to withstand moisture and dust. She had to give up the attempt on that occasion, but in 1927 she became the first British woman to complete the crossing.
The first watch that was actually designed to be used in water was the 1932 Omega Marine. This, too, looked more like a dress watch, with its square, Reverso-like look, but it was made with an extra outer case that kept water and moisture out. In 1936, in order to demonstrate its resilience, it was lowered to a depth of 73 metres in Lake Geneva, and coped with that perfectly well.
At around the same time, Panerai in Florence were developing their first diving watches with waterproof cases from Rolex. However, their look was completely different, as they were initially intended to be toolwatches for the Army’s diving unit. The shape and the characteristic dial with its luminescent, radium-painted markers still provides the starting-point for Panerai’s watch designs today.
1943 1953 1954
When modern diving equipment with tanks of compressed air was invented in 1943 , it became possible to remain underwater for longer, so a watch was necessary to time your dive – both so that you could keep an eye on your air supply and to ensure a slow ascent so that you did not get the ‘bends’. The French army therefore ordered a robust and waterproof watch from Blancpain with a 60-minute rotatable bezel – which became the legendary Fifty Fathoms (50 fathoms is about 91 metres). It hit the streets in 1953 and was in many ways the first ‘real’ diving watch, with its robust build quality, black dial, bezel and luminescent indices and hands. In 1954, Rolex came up with its first serious diving watch, the Rolex Oyster SubMariner, which in many ways set the standard for what a modern diving watch should look like – and has looked like ever since. It also came with Rolex’s patented screw-down crown, which ensured water resistance under high pressure. The model became world famous when Jacques Cousteau wore it on his diving expeditions in the 1955 movie The Silent World. In 1957, it was Omega’s turn to make a dedicated diving watch, the Omega SeaMaster 300, which was of high quality and contained Omega’s reliable and accurate cal. 501 movement, which made them very popular.
In 1967, Rolex patented its helium valve for very deep dives, and used it in the very first Sea-Dweller.
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Photo: Unspash / Jacob Boman
HOW TO SPOT A
DIVING WATCH Water resistance is of course also a must, and strictly speaking, a real diving watch should comply with the ISO 6425 standard, which dictates that the watch must at least be able to withstand a pressure of 10 ATM, corresponding to 100 metres below the water surface.
The dial is designed to be easy to read, even in semi-darkness. Accordingly, both the hands and the markings are relatively large and luminous – and it must be easy to distinguish the hour hand from the minute hand.
The bezel is the most visible sign of a diving watch. It is used to keep track of the time while diving. When you enter the water, you turn the bezel so that the zero/triangle is next to the minute hand. This allows you to easily keep track of your diving time.
A second hand is also essential, so that you can see straight away if the watch has stopped. The strap should ideally be in rubber or steel, so that it can cope with being immersed in water. If you are a serious diver, the strap should also be extendable so that it can be worn outside your wetsuit or dry suit. But if you use the watch for anything other than diving, a leather strap is cool.
Diving legend in new materials Originally developed in 1967 in consultation with professional scuba diving pioneers, the Rolex Sea-Dweller remains one of the most complete and robust diving watches you can find. At the same time, this year’s new model is so elegant that you can keep it on when you change out of your wetsuit and into your evening tuxedo. The new model is made of Rolesor, which is Rolex’s very own combination of steel and gold, and it measures 43 mm, with a scratch-free ceramic dial.
It is water resistant to a depth of 1,220 metres, so there is naturally also a discreet helium valve (which Rolex patented for the very first Sea-Dweller). Under the bonnet is Rolex’s new-generation calibre 3235 movement, ensuring chronometer precision and a power reserve of 70 hours. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller (ref. 126603). Price DKK 114,100
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Necklace from Ole Lynggaard with white freshwater cultured pearls As shown, price DKK 67,000
Rock ‘n’ roll bracelet from Milas in 18 kt. gold with beautiful Tahitian pearls and brilliant-cut diamonds with pink shades. Price on request.
Twister ring from Ghita Ring & Katrine Salmon in 14 kt. gold with Tahitian pearl and 0.05 ct. diamond. Price DKK 9,500
Rado True Automatic Diamonds 30 mm in attractive plasma hi-tech (ref. 561.0243.3.085). Price DKK 19,500
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Dreams mussel pendant from Christine Hvelplund in 18 kt. gold with 76 brilliant-cut diamonds (total 1.18 ct.). Price DKK 44,800
Earrings from Bolou in 18 kt. gold with South Sea pearls and moonstone. Price DKK 46,850
Earrings from Lund Copenhagen with cultured pearls (5.5-6 mm) in claw setting. Price DKK 1,625
fruits of the ocean The creatures of the sea have both inspired the shapes and supplied the pearls and mother-of-pearl for these beautiful watches and jewellery.
Atoll ring from By Birdie in sterling silver and 14 kt. gold with Keshi pearl and rose-cut diamonds (total 0.80 ct.). Price DKK 14,000
Macramé men’s bracelet from P. Hertz with Tahitian pearls and one hand-engraved Tahitian pearl. Price DKK 7,500
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Alpina Comtesse 34 mm quartz with black mother-of-pearl dial. (ref. AL-240MPBD2C6B). Price DKK 6,950
THE SORCERER’S WORKSHOP
The sorcerer’s workshop By Kåre Peitersen
Nowadays, jewellery is something you can buy almost anywhere – fashion boutiques, department stores and even large supermarkets have a range of glittering jewellery on show. But as we all know, not all that glitters is gold. And fortunately, there are still some classic goldsmiths around to keep the traditional craft alive, making unique jewellery in their workshops by hand and from scratch. W&J visited three goldsmiths to hear how they entered the trade and what they love most about their profession.
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THE SORCERER’S WORKSHOP
LIVA LOVES TO WORK WITH HER HANDS Liva Folkvardsen likes to express herself creatively through her jewellery. For the past ten years, she has managed the workshop of Royal Court Supplier P. Hertz. How long have you been working as a goldsmith?
Which gemstones do you love most?
“I started my apprenticeship as a 19-year-old, and that’s 15 years ago now. I’d finished high school and actually wanted to be a biologist, but then I had the opportunity to take an apprenticeship, and I jumped at it because I wanted to try something creative. For the past ten years I’ve been with P. Hertz, and I really like working here, because every day is different and I get to carry out an incredible number of exciting and challenging tasks in jewellery and design. One day it might be a repair, the next a unique piece of jewellery that has to be made from scratch.”
“It’s hard to say, because there are so many of them, but if I had to choose one it would be diamond, because it has some very special properties. It’s very hard and can withstand heat when you solder it onto a ring. And it reflects the light in a way that makes the whole piece light up.”
What is your favourite material? “That’s 18 kt. gold, because it’s simply gorgeous to work with. 24 kt. is too soft and 14 kt. is too hard, in my opinion. 18 kt. is just right.”
Which of your many jewellery pieces do you remember best? “Oh, it’s difficult to choose, because there are so many – but a fun commission we had was to make a very special set of embroidery scissors in 18 kt. gold with brilliant-cut diamonds. It was very special because it was a gift from Dansk Håndværk (the Danish Craftsman’s Guild) to Her Majesty Queen Margrethe.”
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Love of the trade Jochen Wolfgang Neustädter has worked with jewellery all his adult life. He loves the diversity of the profession, and today works at Boutique Bolou in Charlottenlund. How long have you been working as a goldsmith? “From the time I began my apprenticeship in Germany in 1982. I’ve worked with jewellery all my life – only interrupted by my National Service.”
What is the best thing about your work? “Our trade has such a wide range of tasks and possibilities. I’m glad I have a job where I’m part of the whole process: I talk to customers, design jewellery pieces and make them myself. There are almost no other craft trades left in which you can make everything from scratch, if you want, and there’s great satisfaction in that. And it’s not just the craftsmanship – there’s also the intellectual work of researching and developing new jewellery.”
What is your favourite material? “That would have to be platinum, because it’s the supreme discipline in the craft. Not many people master this technique because the material is so tough, has a high melting point and is generally just difficult to work with. But at the
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same time it offers some amazing possibilities, and the feel of the heavy material is fantastic. That said, all materials have their very own world. I also love silver, which in my opinion is one of the most beautiful materials we have – even though it is very far removed from platinum in both price and difficulty.”
Which gemstones do you love most? “I love all kinds of coloured stones. Not many people in Denmark wear coloured gemstones, but at Bolou we try to encourage it, for example with tourmalines and naturally coloured sapphires, which are stunning stones. I’d like to see people be a bit braver and use more colours in their jewellery.”
Which of your many jewellery pieces do you remember best? “Privately, it’s probably my masterpiece from my master craftsman examination in 1994. But the most spectacular thing I’ve made was shortly after I had finished my apprenticeship in Germany. A German industrial mogul had ordered a set of a ring, earrings and necklace, and there were three of us working on it for a long time. It included a giant emerald of 67 ct. and around 230 ct. of top-quality diamonds. Although I’ve made some spectacular pieces of jewellery over the years for both famous and wealthy customers, that job still stands out most clearly in my memory.”
THE SORCERER’S WORKSHOP
IN LOVE WITH DESIGN Katrine Salmon is one half of the goldsmith business Ghita Ring & Katrine Salmon. She loves the freedom to be able to do creative work with precious metals. How long have you been working as a goldsmith? “For fifteen years. I always wanted to be a goldsmith, but I couldn’t get an apprenticeship, so I trained as a tailor first. Immediately afterwards, I took the goldsmith training. Both trades are very much about design, so in that respect they went quite well together.”
What is the best thing about your work? “I love to create something from scratch. In reality, I suppose I could just as well have become a carpenter. But there’s something special about working with metals, because you can always remelt them and start again. That creates many possibilities for experiment, in a different way than if you sew clothes or work with wood. And I’m also really happy to be where I am, because I have the freedom to be creative.”
What is your favourite material? “That’s hard to say, because I love both gold and silver. But silver is nice and easy to work with because it’s softer.”
Which gemstones do you love most? “I don’t really work with precious stones that much, because my approach is very much based on design. I like to build up a piece of jewellery around the form, and place the focus on the pure metal. Gold and silver are fascinating metals that offer many possibilities. Once in a while it makes sense for me to use pearls and gemstones, but in general I try to keep my jewellery simple and minimalistic.”
Which of your many jewellery pieces do you remember best? “The most challenging was probably my apprenticeship examination piece, but otherwise I’m most pleased with my wave bracelets and rings, because here I’ve managed to create some unique shapes. They’re quite simple pieces of jewellery, but they’re different from anything else I’ve seen, so I’m very proud of them.”
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AUTAVIA AUTAVIA ISOGRAPH ISOGRAPH TheThe most most innovative innovative watchmaking watchmaking technology technology for for a generation a generation of new of new adventurers. adventurers.
København København K: Hvelplund, K: Hvelplund, 33120205 33120205 · Klarlund, · Klarlund, 33115310 33115310 · Stenstrup, · Stenstrup, 33152422 33152422 København København V: Klarlund, V: Klarlund, 33115310 33115310 København København S: Bonell’s S: Bonell’s Guld, Guld, 32620645 32620645 Rødovre: Rødovre: Aveny Aveny GuldGuld SølvSølv Ure,Ure, 36414343 36414343 Kongens Kongens Lyngby: Lyngby: Center Center Ure,Ure, 45882131 45882131 Hellerup: Hellerup: Urmager Urmager Henrik Henrik Werner, Werner, 39610415 39610415 Hørsholm: Hørsholm: Klaus Klaus Rygaard Rygaard Ure Ure & Smykker, & Smykker, 45571034 45571034 Hillerød: Hillerød: Jan Jan Ehlers, Ehlers, 48260331 48260331 Køge: Køge: Leif Leif Jørgensen, Jørgensen, 56650253 56650253 Nykøbing Nykøbing F: Emil F: Emil Hansen Hansen & Søn, & Søn, 54850248 54850248 Odense Odense C: Ragnar C: Ragnar ure og ureJuveler, og Juveler, 63119070 63119070 · Vibholm · Vibholm GuldGuld og Sølv, og Sølv, 86125650 86125650 Sønderborg: Sønderborg: Jacob Jacob Nielsen Nielsen & Søn, & Søn, 74423546 74423546 Holstebro: Holstebro: Ulsted, Ulsted, 97420369 97420369 Thisted: Thisted: Bendixen, Bendixen, 97920231 97920231 Aarhus Aarhus C: Knud C: Knud Pedersen, Pedersen, 86121799 86121799 · Sct. · Sct. Mathias Mathias Ure Ure & Guld, & Guld, 86181804 86181804 Viborg Viborg Sct.Sct. Mathias Mathias Ure Ure & Guld, & Guld, 86611887 86611887 Aalborg: Aalborg: Klitgaard, Klitgaard, 98122828 98122828 Aalborg Aalborg SV: SV: Henrik Henrik Ørsnes Ørsnes Ure-Guld-Sølv, Ure-Guld-Sølv, 98188577 98188577
Watches & Jewellery
Plissé ring by P. Hertz in 18 kt. satin-finish gold. Price DKK 12,000
Gold and golden
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Dreams pendant from Christine Hvelplund in 18 kt. gold with 43 brilliant-cut diamonds (total 0.35 ct.). Price DKK 27,000
Peekaboo bracelet from Bucherer in 18 kt. rose gold with beryl. Price DKK 9,200
Twisted creole earring, 15 mm, from Lund Copenhagen, in 8 kt. red gold. Price DKK 995
Lotus ring from Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen in 18 kt. red gold with amber. Price DKK 9,950
Set of Tradition rings from Milas in 18 kt. gold. Lady’s ring with rubies and diamonds. Price DKK 23,600 Man’s ring, DKK 11,000
Flower earrings from Bolou in 18 kt. gold with carved mother-of-pearl and two diamonds. Price DKK 4,200
Broad Circle ring from Ghita Ring & Katrine Salmon in 14 kt. gold. Price DKK 10,900
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THE AMBASSADORS When new watches and jewellery pieces are to be launched, it’s a good idea to have a world-famous eye-catcher involved. Singers, sports stars, models and actors are among the popular ambassadors when the big players want to attract some extra attention. Here are some celebrities who have teamed up with a brand.
Eve and Zenith When Zenith launched Defy Inventor at Baselworld with pomp and splendour, it was with the help of a number of stars, including the US rapper and singer Eve. The theme was High Frequency, because the movement in the Defy Inventor watch fluctuates at an impressive 18 Hz (as opposed to the usual 4-5 Hz). Together with other star acts such as Lost Frequencies and Swizz Beatz, Eve helped to emphasise just how edgy and cool Zenith can be. At the concert, however, it appeared that she was wearing a Zenith Defy Classic in white ceramic. Zenith Defy Inventor (ref. 95.9001.9100/78.R584). Price on request.
Winnie Harlow and Montblanc The model Winnie Harlow, with her characteristic skin pigment patterns, helped to add a little glamour to Montblanc’s launch of StarWalker – a collection of writing utensils. The event took place at the Lone Star Museum in Houston on 11 June, where the theme was the moon, in celebration of the 50th anniversary of the moon landing. On her wrist she wore a new model from the Bohème watch collection. Montblanc Bohème Day & Night 34 mm (ref. 119935). Price DKK 25,780
Mariah Carey and Chopard The watch and jewellery manufacturer Chopard is known for, amongst other things, producing the Golden Palms statues for the awards ceremonies at the Cannes Film Festival. In connection with the festival a number of gala dinners and receptions are also held every year, and there are also many links between the celebrities and the watch and jewellery brands. At this year’s festival, the diva Mariah Carey could be seen performing at the 26th amfAR gala, and as Chopard sponsors the event, she was naturally wearing some of their most impressive jewellery, namely the Garden of Kalahari set (necklace, ring and earrings) – the most expensive jewellery set Chopard has ever made. The price is estimated to be around USD 50 million. The set is based on one of the largest diamonds ever found, the Queen of Kalahari, which weighed a staggering 342 ct. before it was broken up into smaller pieces to create the jewellery set. Chopard: The Garden of Kalahari Price approx. USD 50 million
Cara Delevingne and TAG Heuer Model, actress and style icon Cara Delevingne has been the face of TAG Heuer’s ladies’ watches for some years, and she was also part of this year’s campaign for the relaunched Carrera collection. TAG Heuer Carrera Ladies’ (Quartz) (ref. WBK1311.BA0652). Price DKK 14,995 + (ref. WBK1314.FC8261) (purple). Price DKK 15.500 kr.
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The Rock and IWC You might think that Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson would go around wearing a big Panerai or Richard Mille, but here he has been spotted at this year’s CinemaCon at Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas with one of the elegant new IWC pilot watches on his wrist. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Spitfire (ref. IW503601). Price DKK 178,300
James Cameron and Rolex Film director James Cameron will soon be releasing the latest instalment of his Terminator saga (Dark Fate). And if he shows up for the premiere, he’ll probably be wearing the Rolex Submariner that he is so fond of. He wore his first Submariner virtually every day for 20 years – both when he was viewing the wreck of the Titanic from a diving bell several kilometres below the ocean surface, and when he received the 1998 Best Film Oscar for the film Titanic. But he no longer has that watch, because he gave it to a native chief in the Amazon after getting involved in the work for native rights in connection with the Avatar movie. He quickly bought another, for, as he later said: “It’s the only constant companion – people come and go. The watch is always there.” Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date (ref. 116610LN). Price DKK 60,450
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ORDRUPVEJ 56 CHARLOTTENLUND STRANDVEJEN 163 HELLERUP WWW.LYNGGAARDSHOP.COM
David Beckham and Tudor ‘Born to dare’ is Tudor’s slogan, and if anyone dares, it must be the style icon and former football star David Beckham. Here he is wearing the new bronze version of the coveted Black Bay heritage series, now with a matte grey dial. The textile strap is inspired by those used by the French Navy with their Tudor watches in the 1960s. Tudor Black Bay Bronze 43 mm (ref. 79250BA). Price DKK 29,530
George, Buzz and Omega George Clooney was just eight years old when Buzz Aldrin stepped out onto the surface of the moon shortly after Neil Armstrong, wearing his Omega Speedmaster watch outside his space suit. The popular actor has always been fascinated by space exploration, and since he is also one of Omega’s ambassadors, it was obvious to bring him together with Buzz Aldrin when Omega presented its solid gold anniversary edition of the Speedmaster moon watch this year, with great festivity. Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Moonshine™ Gold limited edition (1,014 pcs.) (ref. 310.60.42.50.99.001). Price DKK 252,000
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Watches & Jewellery
Teardrop earrings from Christine Hvelplund in 18 kt. rose gold with cognac diamonds (total 2.40 ct.). Price DKK 29,500
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Solitaire earrings from Bolou in 18 kt. rose gold with two natural, champagne-coloured brilliant-cut diamonds (total 1.42 ct.). Price DKK 27,650
Hand-braided Life bracelet from Ole Lynggaard with catch and lock in 18 kt. red gold. Price DKK 3,950
Sahara bracelet (men’s) from Alexander Lynggaard (6 mm) Price DKK 500
Ring from Lund Copenhagen, in 8 kt. gold with smoky quartz. Price DKK 2,200
Harlequin earrings by P. Hertz in 14 kt. gold, with variously-coloured gemstones. As shown, price DKK 32,900
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Patek Philippe Nautilus Lady in rose gold (ref. 7118/1R). Price DKK 352,300
By Kåre Peitersen
dress watches A dress watch should be relatively simple in appearance and not too big, as it has to be able to fit beneath a shirt cuff. Here you can see some of the year’s most gorgeous new items.
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Montblanc Heritage Manufacture Perpetual Calendar limited edition (100 pcs.) (ref. 119926). Price DKK 195,000
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DRESS WATCHES Perfect elegance Vacheron Constantin has been making watches continuously since 1755, which makes it the oldest still-existing watch brand in the world. They are also suppliers of some of the finest watchmaking around, and this new model is unlikely to disappoint fans. The case is in 18 kt. rose gold and measures 41.5 mm in diameter, but is just 8.1 mm in thickness. Somehow, it has proved possible to screw 276 tiny parts together into the automatic movement calibre 1120 QP/1, which is equipped with a perpetual calendar and provides a 40-hour power reserve. Here is the watch with a blue ‘Mississippiensis’ alligator strap. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin (ref. 4300V/000R-B509). Price DKK 562,000
Santos, now with quartz Many of Cartier’s men’s watches are based on classic designs from the beginning of the 20th century, including the Santos collection, the shape of which mimics the plan form of the Eiffel Tower. But even if the design is old, you can always put some new technology inside the case, which is exactly what Santos did this year when they introduced quartz movements. And why did they do that? Partly because it makes the watch more slender, and partly because it allows it to be reduced slightly in price, so that more Cartier fans can join in. Here is the steel model, measuring 43.5 mm. Cartier promises an impressive six years of battery life. Santos de Cartier (ref. WSSA0022). Price DKK 29,000
A complicated item in few copies Frederique Constant has a good foothold in the Danish market, so at least one example of this new and extremely limited edition is likely to find its way to this country. The watch is in 18 kt. rose gold and can boast both a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon, all designed and built in-house in the company’s Geneva factory. The movement is the newly-developed FC-975 with a silicon hairspring. Frederique Constant Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar limited edition (30 pcs.) (ref. FC-975N4H9). Price DKK 234,900
Enough power for a whole working week Baume et Mercier have enjoyed great success with their automatic Baumatic movement, which also excels by being both COSC-certified and able to provide a full five-day power reserve. Here it is mounted in a fine dress watch of 40 mm with a blue sunburst dial. Baume et Mercier Clifton Baumatic (ref. M0A10467). Price DKK 23,740
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Inspired by Savile Row Chopard has created a steel watch in a simple yet sophisticated design inspired by the legendary bespoke tailoring street Savile Row in London. The navy blue dial shimmers nicely, accentuated by rose gold hands and indices. And the strap is something very special – it is made of alligator leather, but on top is a layer of braided Merino wool in a discreet, two-tone Prince of Wales pattern. In other words, it goes perfectly with a blue blazer. The watch measures 40 mm in diameter but is just 7.2 mm thick, and through the rear sapphire crystal you can see the fine calibre 96.53-L movement produced by Chopard itself. Chopard L.U.C. XP (ref. 168592-3002). Price DKK 62,000
Futuristic Zenith Who says a dress watch has to be classic? Not Zenith, at any rate. Their Defy collection is an attempt to explore the possibilities of modern – or downright futuristic – design, of which this blue scratchproof ceramic model is a fine example. The skeletonised dial gives a little peek into the engine room – and you can flip it over and see even more through the sapphire crystal on the back. With a little luck you can also spot the silicone hairspring. Zenith Defy Classic skeleton 41 mm (ref. 49.9003.670/51.793). Price on request
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from here to By Kåre Peitersen
The perpetual calendar is one of the most advanced complications of a mechanical watch. This year, it’s making a big comeback and can be seen in a host of new models.
The perpetual calendar was invented in 1864 by Patek Philippe, who managed to obtain as many as 25 patents in the process. By 1925 they had refined the complication enough to integrate it into a wristwatch. And in 1937, Jaeger-LeCoultre was ready with the world’s first square wristwatch with a perpetual calendar. In fact, this watch was so difficult to develop that it became the reason why the watchmakers Edmund Jaeger and LeCoultre merged. Both Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre are thus brands with proud traditions in this field, and this year, the latter launched this beautiful model with a blue enamel dial. The case is in white gold, measures 39 mm, and is just 10.4 mm thick. Inside is the automatic calibre 868A/2 movement, which provides 70 hours of power reserve. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Enamel limited edition (100 pcs.) (ref. Q13035E1). Price DKK 429,000
Advertisingsupplement supplement· · September 2019 66 ·• Advertising
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Snow-covered Grand Seiko This year, Grand Seiko is marking the 20th anniversary of Spring Drive technology. This innovative and unique movement ensures both high precision (+/- 15 seconds/ month) and a good power reserve (84 hours). The new product measures 38.5 mm and is made of platinum, with manual winding – and the dial is a small artwork in itself. It is hand-engraved with a snowflake structure at Grand Seiko’s Micro Artist Studio – inspired by the snow-clad slopes of the Japanese mountain range outside the Grand Seiko factory. Grand Seiko (ref. SBGZ001). Price DKK 450,000
white dials Value for money from Tissot If you are planning on investing in your first Swiss dress watch, this Tissot is a good bet, as there is a really good relationship between quality and price. The 40 mm steel case is coated with rose gold PVD, so you get an elegant look without having to pay for a solid gold case. You also get Tissot’s own automatic Powermatic 80.111 movement, which gives you 80 hours of power reserve. Tissot Carson Gent Automatic (ref. T122.407.36.031.00). Price DKK 5,200
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Understated elegance The Frederique Constant brand has achieved a great deal in the mere 31 years of its existence. The aim of the founders, married couple Aletta and Peter Stas, has always been to produce high-quality watches at reasonable prices. They are not alone in that in the Swiss watch industry, but the couple has also always insisted on undertaking as much development as possible in-house, which is why they have produced no less than 27 manufacture movements (i.e. watch movements designed and built from scratch). The latest one is called the FC-723, and it is housed in this elegant 40 mm new product, which has a simple design with hours, minutes, the date and a power reserve indicator. Frederique Constant Manufacture Slimline (ref. 723WR3S6). Price DKK 29,100
Festina goes Swiss-made A Swiss-made dress watch doesn’t necessarily have to cost a fortune. Festina proves that with its new Capsule Collection, which for the first time has been manufactured in Switzerland, with the associated stamp of quality. You get a clean-line look and a nice play in the dial in this 40 mm steel watch. Inside is a quartz movement from Ronda. Festina (ref. 20007/2). Price DKK 1,298
Rado – inspired by the 1950s When the Golden Horse collection saw the light of day in 1957, it was the first time Rado had released watches under its own name. This year, the collection has been relaunched with a range of elegant models that have grown to 42 mm and are more distinctive in appearance than the original watches. The case is steel, while the bezel is in plasma ceramic, which is one of Rado’s more modern characteristics. Inside is an ETA movement with an 80-hour power reserve. Rado Golden Horse Automatic (ref. 763.6100.3.101). Price DKK 15,500
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Your week or my week? Patek Philippe is one of the leading brands when it comes to equipping watches with complications, and this year the Geneva-based brand is introducing a whole new one of its own: week numbers. And what would you use that for? Well, it’s handy if you share a family with your ex-spouse, because it means you will always know when the odd and even weeks fall. The case is made of steel and measures 40 mm, and in addition to the week number there is also the date and the day of the week. Another interesting detail about this watch is that all of the numbers and letters on the dial are written by hand, giving the watch a nice retro feel. Patek Philippe (ref. 5212A). Price DKK 247,400
Tourbillon is the French word for whirlwind, but it is also the term for a small horological masterpiece of technology that only the finest watch brands master. The tourbillon is really a superfluous relic from former times, but it is still one of the most prestigious things you can have on your dress watch. It was invented in 1795 by the French master watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet, and is a mechanical device that rotates the central parts around the balance wheel to counteract the effects of gravity. Back then people used only pocket watches, which by their nature were in much the same position for most of the day, so it made good sense to counteract gravity with a tourbillon. Today, it is mainly a ‘show off’ element that demonstrates the highest quality of watchmaking. Last autumn, Bucherer marked their 130th anniversary with this tourbillon model in 18 kt. rose gold. While a tourbillon is normally attached either
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to a bridge or directly to the dial, this one is ‘peripherally’ mounted, allowing an unimpeded view of it from both front and rear. At the same time, the rotor for the automatic winding mechanism is also peripherally mounted, so that it does not ‘overshadow’ the tourbillon. The case back is in white gold and decorated with a hand-engraved illustration of Lake Lucerne and Lucerne’s iconic Chapel Bridge. Each of the 88 watches also has an engraved swan, but in different places, so that the watch is also your own unique artwork. Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Tourbillon Double Peripheral Limited Edition (88 pcs.) (ref. 00.10802.03.13.01). Price DKK 645,000
Limited Edition 2019 1 October - 31 December 2019 PH 3/2 Amber Coloured Glass Floor Lamp The Water Pump, Design by Poul Henningsen
København Torvegade 55-57, Tlf. 32 57 28 14 Næstved Merkurvej 3, Tlf. 55 77 49 49 Lyngby Jernbanepladsen 19.23, Tlf. 45 87 54 04 Holbæk Tåstruphøj 46, Tlf. 59 45 45 45 www.vester-moebler.dk
DRESS WATCHES DRESS-URE
Salmon-toned dials call forth associations with vintage watches from the 1950s and 1960s, and they have become hugely popular again. Here are three examples for your wish list.
German anniversary This year, A. Lange & Söhne can celebrate 25 years since the watch brand from Glashütte was re-established as a family company after the fall of the Wall. Among the year’s highlights is this model with chronograph, lunar phase, tourbillon and perpetual calendar – or at least a calendar that will only need to be adjusted in 122 years’ time. The whole thing is enclosed in a 41.5 mm white gold case. A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon limited edition (100 pcs.) (ref. 740.056). Price DKK 2,234,000
Let’s play doctor
Many people were practically salivating when Audemars Piguet presented this salmon-toned version of their megahit Royal Oak at SIHH in January. The case and strap are in solid 18 kt. white gold, while the dial is in rose gold and made with a Petite Tapisserie structure, which gives a fine sense of depth. Audemars Piguet Jumbo Extra-Thin 39 mm limited edition (75 pcs.) (ref. 15202BC.OO.1240BC.01). Price DKK 330,000 + VAT and taxes
Even if you don’t have a smartwatch, you can still take a quick heart rate measurement if you have a ‘doctor’s watch’ with a pulsograph on the edge of the dial, like this Montblanc. You start the chronograph, then after 30 heartbeats you stop it again and read your – or your patient’s – heart rate. Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph limited edition (100 pcs.) (ref. 119914). Price DKK 219,410
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Ref. 8065 CHIMERA NET 46 TUNGSTENO
U RH A NDLER NESWEBSHOP.DK
Lots of diamonds Piaget’s slim design and sense of diamonds make this watch a feminine dream for those special occasions. The case is in pure white gold, while the bezel is packed with diamonds (total 1.56 ct.). Piaget Altiplano 36 mm limited edition (88 pcs.) (ref. G0A44076). Price DKK 510,000
dressy ladies’ watches Handmade lacquer dial The handmade lacquer dial makes this Breguet watch something really special. The steel case measures 34 mm and contains an automatic movement. Breguet Marine (ref. 9517ST.E2.584). Price EUR 17,900 plus VAT
Galloping ahead It’s hard to come up with new forms for wristwatches, but Hermès has made a good attempt with this model, which is inspired by equestrian sports equipment in general – and the stirrup in particular. The surface also has a really nice texture, and the font adds the finishing touch to an atypical but very beautiful look. The case is in rose gold and studded with 150 diamonds (totalling about 0.66 ct.). Galop d’Hermès. Price DKK 59,800
A quarter to bee Bees are a common theme at the fashion house Gucci, and on the new G-Timeless watch they are clearer than ever. The dial is in blue lapis, while the case is steel, and contains an automatic movement. Gucci G-Timeless 38 mm (ref. YA1264122). Price DKK 17,850
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Limited Edition 2019. MTG-B1000RB-2AER. Vejl. 9.099,Shock-resistant / Triple G Resist / Radio-controlled (Multi Band 6) / Smartphone link functions: automatic time adjustment, easy watch setting (world time for over 300 cities, home time/world time switching, alarm setting), Phone Finder / Solar-powered / Auto Hand Home Position Correction / Hybrid Mount Construction / Smart Access / Dual Dial World Time â€” two-city simultaneous time display / Stopwatch / Daily alarm / LED light (Super Illuminator) / 20-bar water resistance * BluetoothÂŽ is a registered trademark or trademark of Bluetooth SIG, Inc.
[ New Core Guard Structure + Band structure ]
Core guard structure
[ Tough structure protects the watch from three types of gravitational acceleration: impact forces, centrifugal forces, and vibrations ]
[ High-brightness LED light ]
Razor-edge carbon fibre With the Octo Finissimo collection, Bulgari demonstrates time and time again just how delicate a craftsmanship the brand masters. Here you get the world’s thinnest tourbillon in an extreme carbon fibre watch, measuring 42 mm in width and less than 7 mm in thickness. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Carbon limited edition (50 pcs.) (ref. 103072). Price on request.
Sergeant Pepper at 50 Raymond Weil is a somewhat overlooked brand, but it has found a good niche with a number of collections based in various ways on the world of music. In recent years, very clear references have been seen in their David Bowie and Beatles watches. This year sees the third Beatles watch from the brand, to mark the fiftieth anniversary of the Liverpool band’s great artistic masterpiece, Sergeant Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band. The dial on the new watch is reminiscent of the vinyl record, with the Sergeant Pepper logo in the middle. The watch is made of PVD gold-plated steel, measures 40 mm and is just 9 mm thick. Inside is an automatic calibre RW4200 movement. Raymond Weil Maestro The Beatles Sgt. Pepper's limited edition (3,000 pcs.) (ref. 2237-PC-BEAT3). Price DKK 11,500
Bête noire When Ulysse Nardin launched the first version of their Freak watch in 2001, it was a ground-breaking design. The watch has no real dial or hands, and you read the time by looking at where the baguette-shaped bridges in the work are pointing. At the same time, you can constantly see the balance wheel and its silicon spiral spring at work. One of this year’s new versions is entirely in black carbon fibre, which has also made the movement slightly simpler and thereby less expensive. Ulysse Nardin Freak X Carbonium 43 mm (ref. 2303-270/CARB). Price DKK 180,000
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Less is more It can’t get any simpler – a black dial with a circle at 12:00. With this fine quartz watch, Movado shows just how little is needed to create good design. Movado Museum (ref. 0607198). Price DKK 5,950
black as coal New design from Audemars Piguet
When Audemars Piguet proudly showcased their new Code 11.59 collection at SIHH in January, there were, to say the least, divided opinions on the direction they were taking. Nevertheless, it has taken the brand almost ten years to develop Code 11.59, which is not only a new watch design, but a fundamental shift at Audemars Piguet. The new models are based on completely new movements, and the dressy watches, according to the plan, will constitute an independent area in the company, in the same way as, for example, their Royal Oak and Offshore models. Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 (ref. 15210OR-OO-A002CR-01). Price approx. DKK 200,000
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Watches & Jewellery
Handmade cufflinks from Ghita Ring & Katrine Salmon, in silver with gold end surfaces Price DKK 3,800
Chest buttons from P. Hertz in 14 kt. gold with mother-of-pearl and cabochon-cut sapphires. Price DKK 4,900 each
Bracelet and ring from Alexander Lynggaard. Green Tigereye 8 mm Price DKK 900 Double Wrap Price DKK 900 Hope Facet Ring Price DKK 1,400
American MVMT watch (ref. FC01). Price DKK 1,395
Cufflinks from Lund Copenhagen in oxidised silver (18 x 10 mm Price DKK 575
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quality & tradition since 1835 kĂ¸benhavn / aarhus / cph airport www.perchs.dk
Watches & Jewellery
Conscious ring from Christine Hvelplund in 18 kt. white gold with one 0.14 ct. brilliant-cut diamond and 16 smaller diamonds (total 0.20 ct.). Price DKK 9,800
B Dimension ring from Bucherer in 18 kt. rose gold with onyx and 75 diamonds (total 0.37 ct.). Price DKK 19,900
Una solitaire ring from Bolou in 18 kt. rose gold with cushion-cut 2.01 ct. diamond. Price DKK 179,500
Eternity rings from Bolou in 18 kt. yellow, white or rose gold with diamonds. Price DKK 14,945
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Eternity ring from Lund Copenhagen, in 8 kt. white gold with diamonds (total 0.21 ct.). Price DKK 5,700
Photo: Unsplash / George Coltrain
Organic Xl wedding rings from Ghita Ring & Katrine Salmon in 14 kt. gold. Price DKK 8,900 each
Nature ring with pendant from Ole Lynggaard in 18 kt. satin gold. Price DKK 15,900
Scroll wedding rings from Milas in 18 kt. gold with diamonds. Price on request.
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By Kåre Peitersen
DO YOU DREAM OF
DIAMMONDS? Everyone loves diamonds, and with good reason, because the sparkling gems can light up a whole piece of jewellery. Here come nine pages of diamonds – large and small, coloured and raw. And we will also tell you how to secure some of the last naturally coloured diamonds in the world.
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Special Edition Earring Shooting Stars from Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen in 18 kt. red gold with 135 diamonds (total 1.13 ct.). Price DKK 119,000 (sold individually) .
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Mega organic ring by Ghita Ring & Katrine Salmon in 14 kt. white gold with brilliant-cut diamonds (total 0.27 ct.). Price DKK 25,450
cara Rosette ring from Lund Copenhagen in white gold with diamonds (total 0.29 ct.). Price DKK 10,000
Beautiful solitaire ring from Milas in 18 kt. gold with 0.7 ct. brilliant-cut diamond. Made to order, price on enquiry.
Bucherer B-Dimension ring in 18 kt. white gold with one 0.45 ct. brilliant-cut diamond and 92 other brilliant-cut diamonds (total 0.69 ct.). Price DKK 44,000
Rivière bracelet from Bucherer in 18 kt. white gold with 49 brilliant-cut diamonds (total 7.0 ct.). Price DKK 206,700
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Ear studs from Christine Hvelplund in 18 kt. white gold with diamonds (total 2.3 ct.). Price DKK 70,000
Flora ring from Gucci in 18 kt. white gold with diamonds. Price DKK 29,500
Italian designer and fashion blogger Chiara Ferragni wearing Chopard jewellery in connection with an event at the Cannes Film Festival in May.
Snake earrings by P. Hertz in 18 kt. white gold with brilliant-cut diamonds (total 0.66 ct). Price DKK 42,000
Winter Frost ring from Ole Lynggaard in 18 kt. white gold with 121 brilliant-cut diamonds (total 1.05 ct.). Price DKK 82,900
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DIAMONDS By Kåre Peitersen
CAN BE A GOOD INVESTMENT
The Russian diamond mine at Aikhal.
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The world’s stock of natural gemstones is rapidly diminishing, and there is nothing to suggest that any new deposits will be found, so it makes good sense to invest in diamonds now, says an expert. ‘It’s difficult to make forecasts – especially about the future.’ The quote is usually attributed to the Danish multi-artist Storm P., and it still applies. When it comes to investments, in particular, it can be hard to predict the trends. In the 1980s, for example, no-one wanted classic Danish designer furniture, so Wegner’s Bamse chairs could be had second-hand for just DKK 500, and only ten years ago you could buy Rolex sports watches from the 1960s and 1970s at reasonable prices. Today they are virtually unaffordable. However, there are cases when looking into the crystal ball seems to form a clear picture of future value increases – for example in the area of natural diamonds.
Diamond mines are becoming depleted Like so much else, it’s all about supply and demand, and the fact is that many of the big diamond mines are fast approaching their expiration date. Today, there are around 50 diamond mines around the world, which together account for more than 95% of all the diamonds that reach the Earth’s surface. But many of these mines are now almost empty. Production in the Russian Jubilee mine, for example, will be halved by 2020. The Argyle mine in Australia, which supplies almost all the beautiful pink diamonds to the world market, is set to close down completely by 2020, while the Diavik mine in Canada will close in 2024. The big sub-Saharan African mines don’t have much time left, either. So what will happen then? “The diamond market is set to change fundamentally within the next 10-20 years. The last diamond miner will probably leave the mine in
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just sixty years’ time, and that will be the end of an era of 150 years of diamond mining,” says Brian Bach Mouritsen, who has worked with diamonds for 30 years, in recent years as a producer of exclusive diamond jewellery and a consultant in investment diamonds. “There are probably more diamonds to be found in the Antarctic and off the coast of Africa, but the cost of recovery would be insanely high, so it’s not on the cards that mining will start there.”
How to invest in the right diamonds If the market behaves as it usually does when a luxury item suddenly becomes hard to get hold of, prices will rise. But before you start examining your heirloom jewellery and contemplating a venture into the diamond market, there are a few things you need to remember when it comes to investing in diamonds. If you want to make a relatively safe investment in which you can benefit from the rise in value yourself, you will need to put money on the table – lots of it! “If you would like to invest in diamonds, there are several things to consider. First of all, don’t use the diamonds for jewellery, because then the state will tax them as consumer goods, and you will have to pay VAT. You should place the diamonds in a safe or a bank safe-deposit box. Of course you can admire them once in a while, but you must not wear them. Secondly, you will have to put up with not receiving any ongoing returns, as you would do with stocks. You will only benefit from the increase in value when you sell the diamonds again. Thirdly, you will need to get up to a certain level before it makes sense to use diamonds as an invest-
Over the next ten years we will begin to see a shortage in some diamond categories.
Virtually all the world’s pink diamonds (92%) come from the Australian Argyle mine. It has long been known that this mine is being depleted (and is planned to close next year), which has caused prices to rise by approximately 400% over the past 15 years.
ment. I usually advise my clients not to invest less than DKK 800,000, and preferably DKK 3-5 million. And then, finally, there is a time horizon of approximately ten years, after which an annual return of 5-10% can be expected. If you are willing to accept all this, you should ally yourself with an expert in the field and look for the right stones. If we’re talking about investment, it’s all about finding the extremely rare stones, i.e. those with unique colours, in high quality and of a certain size. Right now there are perhaps around 100 relevant stones on the market in the DKK 3-6 million range, while there are many thousands of them for DKK 800,000,” says Brian Bach Mouritsen. With sums like that it’s unlikely that many people can participate, but what about storing away some of the less valuable stones – like the ones typically used in jewellery? “In the long term – perhaps 20-40 years – the smaller stones will certainly increase in value, but you shouldn’t expect the very small stones to become an investment. On the other hand, an exclusive piece of diamond jewellery can be a fine form of consumer investment that you can enjoy in your daily life. If for example you go out and spend DKK 100-800,000 on a car, then after 10-15 years it will have largely lost its value. But a piece of diamond jewellery in the same price range is very likely to retain its value – and perhaps even increase slightly in value along the way,” says Brian Bach Mouritsen.
What about artificially manufactured diamonds? Something quite new is also happening in the diamond world right now, namely the emergence of synthetic (lab-grown) diamonds. These are made in laboratories where carbon is exposed to high temperatures and extremely high pressure – in the same way that diamonds are naturally
Natural diamonds will soon become scarce.
A diamond must always have a certificate
Brian Bach Mouritsen has been working with diamonds for 30 years.
created. As the ‘grown’ diamonds are just as raw as those found in nature, they still need to be ground and processed, so they will never be inexpensive. However, diamond giant De Beers has sparked interest in synthetic diamonds with its relatively new Lightbox concept, so prices are on the way down. But the question is whether these diamonds can become a competitor to natural diamonds, in jewellery or as an investment? “The synthetic diamonds are a bit of a joker in the pack. I think we will see entirely new forms of jewellery made with synthetic diamonds, but in my best assessment, they will not be as attractive as natural stones. There’s a large element of human psychology involved. Can you imagine buying an
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The GIA (Gemological Institute of America) is the leading certification company in the world, and if you are thinking of investing in diamonds, a certificate from them is essential. Along with the certification, a microscopic code is etched into the diamond itself so that it can be compared with the certificate. The GIA also certifies the new synthetic diamonds.
engagement ring with a synthetic diamond in it, for example? Diamond jewellery for special life events involves a lot of emotion, and here I am sure that the consumers will prefer the natural stones, which after all are unique and have their own story. When it comes to investment diamonds, I always recommend that you go for coloured diamonds, because it’s impossible to artificially create such beautiful, deep colours as you find in naturally coloured diamonds. It’s different with white diamonds, where as a layman you would find it very difficult to see the difference. So coloured diamonds like the pink and blue ones are safer investments, while the resale value of synthetic diamonds is almost zero.”
TOURBILLON PERPETUAL CALENDAR MANUFACTURE LIMITED EDITION 30 PCS Handcrafted in-house movement. Manufacture Collection : in-house developed, in-house produced and in-house assembled movements.
U R HANDL R NE SW E BSH September 2019E· Advertising supplement · 89OP.DK
Cocktail ring by P. Hertz in 18 kt. gold with 2.05 ct. champagne coloured, cushion-cut diamond, encircled by brilliant-cut diamonds (total 0.33 ct.). Price DKK 95,000
Bubble ring from Milas in white gold with coloured diamonds. Price on request.
FANCY DIAMONDS Diamonds are called fancy if their colour differs markedly from the traditional white/light yellow, or if they are cut in a way other than the popular brilliant cut.
Trio Giallo three-stone ring from Bolou in 18 kt. gold with radiant-cut fancy yellow diamond of 1.79 ct., flanked by two trapeze-cut diamonds. Price on request.
Unique ring from Bach Mouritsen in platinum and 18 kt. gold with yellow diamond (11.01 ct.). Price on request.
Elisabeth I ring from ByBirdie in sterling silver and 14 kt. gold with rose-cut diamonds (total 0.15 ct.) and rough diamonds (total 4.0 ct.). Price DKK 8,900
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By appointment only - more information at www.BachMouritsen.com
Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori 33 mm quartz, in white gold with diamonds (ref. 103159). Price on request.
F. P. Journe Elegant 40 mm quartz, in titanium with up to 18 years of battery life. Price on request.
DIAMOND WATCHES Piaget Limelight Gala 32 mm quartz, in white gold with 42 brilliant-cut diamonds (ref. G0A44160). Price DKK 431,000
timeless Baume & Mercier Classima 31 mm automatic in steel with 60 brilliant-cut diamonds (ref. M0A10479). Price on request.
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and CURV are trademarks owned by Bulova. 96B322. BULOVA.COM © 2019 Bulova. BULOVA,
OCEANOGRAPHER A U TO M AT I C
KØBENHAVN K: Strøgets Ure-Guld, Nygade . Stelling af 1860, Amagertorv . FARUM: Exklusiv Guld og Sølv, Farum Bytorv . BALLERUP: Ballerupguld, Ballerup Centret RØDOVRE: Aveny, Rødovre Centrum . NÆSTVED: Borup Design, Næstved Storcenter . ROSKILDE: Svend’s Ure, Skomagergade . NAKSKOV: Byens Ure & Guld, Søndergade ODENSE: Christoffersen Guld Sølv Ure, Tarup Center . Skovgaard, Jernbanegade . Skovgaard, Rosengårdcentret . Perlen, Åløkke Allé . MIDDELFART: Guldsmed Bendt Larsen, Algade KOLDING: Lykkes Guld & Sølv, Jernbanegade . RIBE: Guldsmedjen i Ribe, Mellemdammen . VEJLE: Sct. Nicolai Ure, Rådhuspassagen . Aram Smykker, Nørregade . VIBORG: Metropol, Vestergade BRANDE: Din Smykkebutik - Nyt Syn, Torvet . HOLSTEBRO: Nicolaisen Ure & Guld, Nørreportcentret . STRUER: Profil Optik, Østergade . LEMVIG: Engens Ure, Vestergade NYKØBING M: Rokkjær, Algade . AARHUS C: House of Diamonds, Banegårds plads . EBELTOFT: Ebeltoft Guld & Sølv, Adelgade . SILKEBORG: Christoffersen Guld Sølv Ure, Torvet HORSENS: Poul Halse, Søndergade . Photo Care Guldbech, Jessensgade . SKANDERBORG: Hugo Mortensen, Adelgade . RANDERS: City Ure, Torvegade HJØRRING: Møller Guld Sølv Ure, Østergade . HINNERUP: Hinnerup Ure Guld Sølv . AALBORG: Klitgaard Ure, Bispensgade . ÅRS: Hinrichsen Guld Sølv Ure, Himmerlandsgade
WILD By Kåre Peitersen
WORKS OF ART Some watches are small artworks in themselves – and with prices to match. Here you can see four impressive and unique watches with inspiration from the wild world of animals.
Much of the Swiss watch industry is said to have been created on the foundation of the many goldsmiths and silversmiths who became unemployed when the Reformation brought displaced French Protestants to Switzerland, after which the spread of Calvinism in Geneva resulted in a prohibition on decoration of any kind. The many skilled craftsmen and blacksmiths simply had to come up with another occupation, and one of them was watchmaking. Then, when Calvinism lost its grip in the 18th century and new winds began to blow across the country, all kinds of expertise had been built up in both watchmaking and decoration. It is this tradition that Vacheron Constantin builds upon, both in their traditional studio and in their special department for one-off productions, Les Cabinotiers. This year they have chosen to extend their family of unique watches with wild animals, like this Majestic Tiger. The case is in 18 kt. gold and measures 41 mm. The movement is the company’s own calibre 2460 G4, which shows the time, day and date in four windows at the edge of the dial, so that the subject can be kept in focus. And with good reason, because the dial has been created as a mosaic of 130 small pieces of wood veneer, across which a three-dimensional, handmade gold tiger is creeping. The watch is a unique, one-off item and comes with a magnifying glass so that the lucky owner can enjoy the details in peace and quiet. Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Majestic Tiger (ref. 7600C/000R-B454). Unique item - price on request.
Hermès has refined the art of enamelling with their small series of hand-painted dials, including the one in this year’s model, featuring a white wolf howling beneath the moon – which is why the watch has been named ‘Awooooo!’ It is a long process to apply the many layers of different types of enamel powder, because the process is constantly interrupted by baking in the kiln and post-polishing.
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But the result is impressive, and since enamel never fades, you get a small work of art that will live almost forever. The case measures 41 mm and is in white gold, and contains Hermès’ in-house H1837 movement. Hermès Arceau Awooooo limited edition (8 pcs.). Price on request.
Panther on the hunt
Cartier and panthers are virtually synonymous. The big cat first became part of the Parisian fashion house’s collections when a wristwatch with an abstract panther motif in black onyx and diamond was launched in the early 20th century. From 1917, a lifelike panther image also became part of the design line of the brand’s exclusive beauty boxes, and little by little it also found its way into the jewellery range, helped along by design manager Jeanne Touissant from 1933 onwards. In 1948 she designed a brooch for the Countess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson (wife of the abdicated king of England, Edward VIII), and since then the panther has been the
epitome of Cartier. One of the wildest creations in this year’s collection is this watch, in which the dial is a mosaic of mother-of-pearl, diamonds and hand-drawn elements. The eyes are luminescent, so they glow appropriately in the dark. The watch case is in 18 kt. gold, and on the bezel are 133 brilliant-cut diamonds (total 1.81 ct.). And it is also a ‘real’ watch, with automatic movement. Ronde Louis Cartier Regard de Panthère limited edition (30 pcs.). Price on request.
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King Kong of the watches
Graff is one of the world’s leading brands when it comes to diamond jewellery, and since 2008 its expertise has also been used to develop some fairly wild, diamond-bedecked watches. This year, it has decided to focus on endangered animal species, with a series of five watches, each with its own animal motif: the panda, elephant, tiger, rhino and, as here, gorilla – made from a mosaic of diamonds. The case measures 48 mm and is in white gold, but there is
also room for both a spherical moon phase complication and a double-axis tourbillon that revolves nicely about itself. There is even a discreet power reserve indicator at 1:00, so that you can keep an eye on the 65 hours of running time that the manual movement supplies. GyroGraff Endangered Species Gorilla (unique product). Price on request.
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Watches & Jewellery
By Kåre Peitersen
THE DANE BEHIND URBAN
JÜRGENSEN The exclusive Urban Jürgensen brand has had a Danish-Swiss connection for almost 250 years. W&J met CEO Søren Jenry Petersen for a chat about the brand’s unique position in the world of watches.
How did you end up as CEO of Urban Jürgensen? “I was familiar with the brand because I bought my first Urban Jürgensen in 1996, and I was generally interested in watches. One day in 2013, I was with Ole Mathiesen, looking for a watch for my son, when I was asked if I wouldn’t be interested in buying Urban Jürgensen itself. It was one of those moments in life when everything comes together, so I gathered a handful of Danish investors and we made our move.”
What is the relationship between Denmark and Switzerland in the brand? “Urban Jürgensen has been more or less Danish-Swiss for almost 245 years. It was founded in Denmark in 1773, but both the founder, Jürgen Jürgensen and his eldest son, Urban, travelled to Switzerland to further their training. Urban married the daughter of the teacher in Le Locle. In 1836, the third generation, in the form of Jules Jürgensen, began manufacturing in Switzerland, and right through the 19th century the connection between the two countries was close. Today we have studios in Biel, but the whole ownership group is Danish.”
What is so special about the brand?
Jürgensen ONE sports watch in surgical steel. Prices from DKK 165,000.
“Urban Jürgensen possesses an almost mythical status in the horological world, because both Urban and his son Jules were excellent watchmakers. Urban worked with Breguet and other legends of the industry, and he wrote one of the watchmaking trade’s textbooks in 1804. This deals, amongst other things, with the basic mathematical rules, and is still read today. At the same time he had an excellent aesthetic sense and made beautiful, classic watches. Today, we continue the tradition of making as much as possible by hand – just like in
the old days. Almost no other brands do that. There is so much craftsmanship in our watches that we cannot actually promise that all our watches are identical. The solid fine silver dials take for example two days to make when they are engraved on the more than 100-year-old hand-driven machines, and you can see whether they have been made in summer or winter, due to the humidity.”
Your watches cost from DKK 120,000 upwards. Can you try to explain how a wristwatch can be so expensive? “It’s a combination of several things. First of all, the materials are pure throughout – such as in the fine silver dials and the surgical steel or platinum cases. Secondly, there is an incredible amount of manual craftsmanship involved. Our movements are completed and polished by hand. It takes a master watchmaker a whole day to make a set of hands. Where other brands use machines and punch them out, we cut and process them by hand. Our drop-shaped lugs can’t be made industrially – they have to be forged in a press, and it takes a whole day to make them. So the costs mount up like this, but on the other hand you get a completely unique watch. It’s the same reason why a Rolls Royce is so much more expensive than a Mercedes.”
How are you doing, in Denmark and abroad? “We have a loyal market in Denmark, but we’re not a mass producer. Urban Jürgensen has only been manufacturing wristwatches for 40 years, and in 2019 we will produce watch number 1,000 – so the customers are members of a very exclusive club. Over the past three years, we’ve been growing by 50% every year. It’s still a small production, but judging by the reception given to our new collection, Jürgensen ONE, things are looking good.”
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Personalize your jewelry Choose your own symbol and/or between all the letters of the alphabet
Alphabet Earring 18 Carat White, Yellow or Rose Gold, dkr. 4.250,- per pieces
Alphabet Bracelet 18 Carat White, Yellow or Rose Gold, from dkr. 9.300,-
Reservations are made for printing errors and price changes.
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Watches & Jewellery
By Kåre Peitersen
GOING, GOING ... Classic 20th-century watches continue to reach staggering prices at auction, and newer, rare models from smaller brands have also become popular collectors’ items.
New records in Hong Kong The world’s leading auction house specialising in watches is Phillips, and for them 2019 has turned into something of a record year. At an auction in Hong Kong on 28-29 May, sales of USD 23.3 million were recorded for a total of just under 300 watches. Collectors from all over the world were present, or bidding online, which was one of the factors that sent a Patek Philippe ref. 912 skeleton pocket watch up to an impressive USD 814,086 (16 times the estimate). There were also a few models from Greubel Forsey under the hammer, and a Worldtimer in rose gold went for USD 246,838, while a Rolex Daytona ‘Paul Newman’ in gold (ref. 6241) reached USD 554,190. . Photo: Phillips
Rolex with history Bruun Rasmussen’s auction on 6 June saw a Rolex GMT Master ref. 1675 with a very unusual history. The watch once belonged to E.D. Sprinkle, a helicopter pilot and commander of the US Air Force’s 269th Battalion – also known by the nickname the ‘Black Barons’. The watch was accompanied by his helicopter helmet, the Rolex box and the original certificate, as well as the original receipt for the purchase of the watch in Cu Chi in Vietnam on 29 April 1967. This was the year when the ‘Black Barons’, led by Sprinkle, became the battalion with the highest recorded number of combat hours, the highest number of air strikes and the transport of most troops. It was in other words a watch that had seen a lot of action, and there was obviously interest in this. The hammer price was DKK 180,000, as against an estimate of DKK 100,000-150,000. Photo: Bruun Rasmussen Kunstauktioner
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[ Montblanc with reverse panda ] The most iconic chronograph dials in history are probably the ‘panda’ (white dial with black sub-dials) and ‘reverse panda’ (black dial with white sub-dials), which adorn, for example, the Rolex Daytona ‘Paul Newman’ models. This year, Montblanc is expanding their TimeWalker collection with just panda and reverse panda dials, and the combination of the classic basic design, in-house automatic movement and a modern touch in the dial gives the new models their very own look. Montblanc TimeWalker ‘reverse panda’ 43 mm (ref. 119942). Price DKK 39,100
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START By Kåre Peitersen
YOUR ENGINES! Chronographs and motorsports are inextricably linked, and the golden era of the 1960s and 1970s, in particular, continues to inspire the watch brands. In the following 11 pages you will find both retro designs and tributes to the classics – as well as a few modern variants.
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[ Back to 1973 with Tissot ] Tissot has delved into its archive and is putting pure 70s nostalgia on the market with this limited edition, which is a revival of a 1973 model. The cushion-shaped case, with its silver-coloured dial and baton hands, captures the zeitgeist of the era perfectly. To live up to modern expectations, however, the clock is a full 43 mm, and inside an ETA Valjoux 7753 movement is ticking away. Tissot Heritage 1973 limited edition (1,973 pcs.) (ref. T124.427.16.031.00). Price DKK 13,500
PURE RETRO Panda dials and retro designs are very much in demand this year. Here you can see six fine versions, which may look like they are from the old days, but which boast modern technology and the finest finish you could imagine.
[ Breitling and the motorbikes ] Breitling has created this model in collaboration with the English motorcycle brand Norton, with whom they claim to share values and history. Both are undeniably masculine and luxurious machines, in their separate scales – and both have delivered hardware to good old James Bond: Sean Connery wore a Breitling in the 1965 movie Thunderball, while Norton supplied a powerful two-wheeler to Daniel Craig in Spectre from 2015. The new watch features a COSC-certified Breitling Manufacture Calibre 01 with 70 hours of power reserve on board. Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42 Norton Edition (ref. AB0118A21B1X1). Price DKK 57,750
[ Bucherer looks back at 1956 ] Launched last year, the Carl F. Bucherer Heritage Collection pays tribute to past models from the renowned brand’s archive. Here, a classic chronograph from 1956 has been revived and modernised, without losing its original charm. The old model measured 34 mm, but 41 mm is more appropriate to our day. Two variants have been produced, one in steel and one in gold, and both are in a limited edition of 888 pieces. In the engine room is the house’s own calibre CFB 1972 movement, which provides 40 hours of power reserve – and is equipped with an annual calendar! Carl F. Bucherer Heritage BiCompax Annual limited edition (888 pcs.) (ref. 00.10803.08.12.01). Price DKK 50,000
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[ A new outfit for Monaco ] Monaco is probably the most recognisable watch in all watch history, with its square case, square sub-dials and blue, white and red colour scheme. To mark the 50th anniversary of the model, TAG Heuer has chosen to launch a handful of special editions in the course of the year. Here we see one of the summerâ€™s 70s-like editions alongside the relaunched original version, which is still a bestseller. TAG Heuer Monaco limited edition (169 pcs.) (ref. CAW211V.FC6466). Price DKK 50,000 TAG Heuer Monaco (ref. CAW211P). Price DKK 42,500
[ Vintage look from Patek ]
[ Tudor in steel and gold ]
Patek Philipp’s classic chronographs may not be as sought after as the Nautilus series, but their craftsmanship is among the finest on the market – just look at this movement. This year, the design has been revised with a blue dial with a vintage look. The case measures 41 mm and is in white gold, while inside is a calibre CG-29-535 PS movement with manual winding. Patek Philippe Chronograph (ref. 5172G). Price DKK 545,200
Tudor’s Black Bay collection continues to inspire enthusiasm, this year with a chronograph in an inviting combination of steel and gold. The design is inspired by Tudor diving watches from the 1950s, but the case has grown to 41 mm, and inside you will find one of the latest of Tudor’s own calibres, the 2017 automatic MT5813, which is COSC-certified and gives you 70 hours of power reserve. Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G (ref. 79363N). Price DKK 49,890
[ Created for the world’s most beautiful motor race ] It was Enzo Ferrari who once described the Italian Mille Miglia motor race as la corsa più bella del mondo – the most beautiful race in the world. The 1,628 kilometres from Brescia to Rome and back is certainly a spectacular drive – if you otherwise have time to enjoy the view. And most race participants do now, because what was once a breakneck rally back in the good old days is today a pleasant and exclusive affair for classic sports cars from before 1957. The race is thus a tribute to the classic era, and each year in May around 400 cars gather for the start. This year, Giovanni Moceri and Daniele Bonetti won the 37th race in their Alfa Romeo 6C 1500 SSA, numbered 59. Chopard has been the main sponsor of the Mille Miglia since 1988, and each year their collection of watches paying tribute to the race grows larger. This year you can for example obtain this elegant steel version. Chopard Mille Miglia Race Edition (1,000 pcs.) (ref. 168571.3004). Price DKK 52,000
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PANIGALE V4 R
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On the occasion of its 50th anniversary, Zenith has released three limited editions that are almost true copies of the original watch – though in gold, rose gold and white gold, respectively, with sapphire glass on the back and an updated movement. Each model has been issued in just 50 examples each, and the lucky owners also get a 50-year guarantee. El Primero A386 Revival in rose gold (ref. 03.A386.400/69.C807). Price approx. EUR 18,000 + VAT
KNOW YOUR CLASSIC By Kåre Peitersen
The world’s first automatic chronograph is 50 years old, but the Zenith El Primero is still a cool and super-precise watch, as the new anniversary editions testify. In the late 1960s, a major watch race was underway. The dream of all watchmakers was to combine an automatic watch with a chronograph. Today that might sound like a matter of course, but at the time the technology to make the existing chronograph movements automatic was still a long way off. The Chrono-matic Group (which was a collaboration between Heuer and Breitling, amongst others), Seiko and Zenith were all secretly developing versions, and in the course of 1969 all three succeeded.
El Primero – ‘the first’ It is said that around the turn of the year 1968-1969, Zenith found out that the Chrono-matic Group was close to the goal and would launch their calibre
Chronomatic 15 at Baselworld in March. As a result, they rushed to complete a couple of demo models of their own calibre El Primero (meaning ‘the first’ in Esperanto), then convened a small local press conference in January to show the world the new wonder. But in a time before the internet and social media (and also perhaps because Zenith was quite a small brand), it failed to create any great sensation, and the Chrono-matic Group still ran off with the honours at Baselworld. But the celebrations were short, as their presentation consisted primarily of demo models, and the final watches were not ready for delivery to shops and consumers until August. In the meantime Seiko overtook them, as they were able to ship their chronographs with the 6139 calibre on board to the
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Japanese market as early as May. Zenith fared even worse, as they were not able to deliver their El Primero models to customers until later that autumn.
Maybe not the first, but the most viable If we still pay homage to El Primero as the winner of the race, it is because Zenith created a wholly new and highly integrated movement entirely from scratch. It was also the world’s first hi-beat watch, as it increased the frequency of the balance from the standard 2 Hz to 2½ Hz, allowing it in principle to measure down to 1/10 second. In technical terms the El Primero was far ahead of its time and is still being produced in updated versions. And when Rolex revitalised their legendary Daytona chronograph in 1984, it was with El Primero as the motor. By that time, both Seiko and the parties involved in the Chrono-matic Group had long since moved on to other calibres.
Watches & Jewellery and Nortime Nordic now give you the chance to win a Raymond Weil Freelancer (ref. 2731-ST-50001) worth DKK 12,500. The model is the epitome of sporty elegance and can be worn for almost any occasion. The 42 mm watch case and comfortable bracelet are made of pure steel, and inside is the automatic RW4200 movement with the date and a 38-hour power reserve.
COMPETITION WIN A WATCH FROM SWISS RAYMOND WEIL – VALUE DKK 12,500
To enter the competition, just answer the question below. In which Swiss city is Raymond Weil’s headquarters located? Send your answer to firstname.lastname@example.org Write ‘W&J competition’ in the subject field. .
The winner will be drawn on 1 November 2019 and will be notified directly.
Raymond Weil When Raymond Weil founded a watch company bearing his name in 1976, he chose to focus on producing high-quality Swiss watches at reasonable prices. This was not otherwise the most favourable time, as since the start of the decade, cheap quartz watches from Japan had knocked the bottom out of the proud Swiss watch industry, which was now in real danger of succumbing completely. But Raymond Weil’s gamble paid off, and since then the independent family firm, still based in Geneva, has been in steady growth. The world of music has played a role all the way through, as is reflected in the names of some of the collections and in a series of limited editions that pay direct tribute to musicians and bands – most recently David Bowie, AC/DC and The Beatles.
WRITTEN IN TIME The word ‘chronograph’ comes from Greek chronos (time) and graph (to write). Here we present four modern variants with which you can write your own times.
[ 20 years of Spring Drive ]
[ Iconic design from Movado ]
Movado is world famous for the iconic design of its Museum collection, in which the dial is entirely empty, adorned only with an engraved circle at the 12:00 mark. The inspiration is drawn from the functionalist ideas and clean lines of the Bahuas design school, but the Swiss brand does more than just look good – in fact, it has acquired no less than 100 patents and held 200 international premieres since 1881. This Museum chronograph measures 43 mm and is powered by a Ronda quartz movement. Movado Museum Sport (ref. 0607360). Price DKK 8,950
For 20 years, Seiko has been the only company to master the advanced Spring Drive technology, and they are celebrating this with a number of models this year, including this Grand Seiko chronograph from the sports collection. The case is made of titanium and measures 44.8 mm, so it’s not for slim wrists. Not only is the watch hardy and water resistant down to 200 metres – its precision is also quite exceptional, so you can expect a maximum fluctuation of 15 seconds a month. Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph limited edition (500 pcs.) (ref. SBGC231). Price DKK 109,750
[ Special edition Jaguar ] With Jaguar you get Swiss-made quality at reasonable prices. This chronograph is made of steel with PVD gilding, measures 45 mm and comes with sapphire glass and water resistance to a depth of 100 metres. Jaguar Special Edition (ref. J691/2). Price DKK 5,998
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[ Hublot celebrates 90 years of Ferrari ] Ferrari’s involvement in motor racing is 90 years old this year. Although the official debut did not come until the Mille Miglia race in 1930, the unit was founded in 1929, and its partner Hublot has chosen to celebrate this with three exclusive limited-edition chronographs in carbon, sapphire crystal and platinum, respectively. The design of the 45 mm watch was carried out in collaboration with Ferrari, and bears the brand’s signature colours of red, yellow and black. The movement is Hublot’s own calibre HUB1241 with flyback chronograph and a 72-hour power reserve. Hublot Big Bang Scuderia Ferrari limited edition (90 pcs.) (ref. 402.QD.0123.NR). Price approx. EUR 30,000 + VAT
[ Classic elegance ] The exclusive Parmigiani Fleurier handmade watches evoke the classic era of mechanical watches, but they do so with modern materials and sophistication. The result is a number of coveted small works of art, including this year’s new chronograph in sandblasted titanium, which utilises the brand’s penchant for the tonneau form, here measuring 48.2 x 40.4 mm. The brand’s own integrated high-beat calibre PF362 movement is responsible for operations. Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpagraphe Chronometre (ref. PFC193-3040200-XO1442). Price DKK 338,120
DARK AND DRESSY A chronograph doesn’t have to be a big, sporty affair – here are four exclusive, ultra-elegant watches that can easily be worn as dress watches.
[ Purple Royal Oak ] The Royal Oak collection from Audemars Piguet is based on a legendary design by the watch designer Gerald Genta. Although designed in 1970, it has a timeless appearance and is constantly acquiring new fans. This year’s new chronograph edition is in 18 kt. white gold with a purple Grande Tapisserie dial. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 41 mm limited edition (200 pcs.) (ref. 26331BC.GG.1224BC.01). Price approx. DKK 600,000 + VAT
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[ The world’s slimmest mechanical chronograph ]
[ Speed freak Santos ] Alberto Santos-Dumont was a French pilot, inventor, adventurer, designer – you name it – who designed some of Cartier’s first wristwatches. Amongst other things he was fascinated by speed, so it is only appropriate that this year’s new Santos de Cartier editions include a couple of chronographs – in this case a pure steel version. Characteristically for the collection, the stopwatch is operated by just one button, namely the crown. Santos de Cartier Chronograph (ref. WSSA0017). Price DKK 67,500
The Italian Bulgari brand is perhaps best known for its lavish and colourful jewellery, but in fact its watch production is almost as impressive. In recent years the brand has cultivated a tight, minimalistic expression in the Octo Finissimo series, and one of this year’s new items is this model, which at a mere 6.9 mm wins the title of the thinnest mechanical chronograph in history. It is Bulgari’s own calibre BVL 318 that keeps the watch running, with a 55-hour power reserve. The GMT function is set and activated via a button at the nine o’clock position. Both the case and the bracelet are made of gorgeous matte, sandblasted titanium, which also makes the watch ultra light. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic 42 mm (ref. 103068). Price DKK 137,000
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By Kåre Peitersen
Buzz Aldrin was the second man on the moon – and unlike Neil Armstrong, he was wearing his Omega.
Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 limited edition (6,969 pcs.) (ref.310.20.42.50.01.001). Price DKK 70,100
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It is 50 years since the Omega Speedmaster became the first watch on the moon, and fortunately Omega is not passing up the opportunity to mark the epoch-making event with a series of special editions of one of the most famous chronographs in horological history.
The Omega Speedmaster is inextricably linked to the US space adventure in general, and the moon landing in particular. The manual chronograph was originally conceived of as the motorsport-inspired third leg in Omega’s portfolio in the 1960s, where it complemented the Seamaster and the Railmaster. The basic design was created in 1957, but it was not until 1962 that it found its familiar expression and, more or less by chance, joined the NASA Mercury programme. At this point, however, it was up to the astronauts to acquire a watch for themselves, so Walter Schirra and Gordon Cooper chose a Speedmaster. Schirra’s Speedmaster thus became the first watch in space in 1962. When the Mercury programme was replaced by Gemini in 1964, NASA decided that it would provide
the watches to the astronauts, and models from Longines, Rolex and Omega were selected for testing. They had to be able to cope with quite a lot, including temperature fluctuations between -18 °C and + 93 °C, pressure loss, high humidity, g-forces of up to 40 g, sustained vibrations and a constant noise level of 130 db.
Only the Speedmaster got through the needle’s eye When NASA completed its tests in 1965, only the Omega Speedmaster had made it through the needle’s eye. It is also said that Omega had no idea that their watches were in space until 1965, when they saw a picture of astronaut Ed White, who, on a spacewalk with Gemini 4, wore a Speedmaster outside
his space suit. After that, Omega added the word ‘Professional’ to the name – which was justified! The next big leap for humanity came, as is well known, on 21 July 1969, when Neil Armstrong planted his feet in the moon dust. But when he pronounced his immortal words, he was not wearing a watch – he had left it in the landing module as a backup, because the electronic clock was not working properly. The first Omega Speedmaster on the moon was therefore Buzz Aldrin’s, when he joined Neil Armstrong on the surface 19 minutes later. That watch would probably be worth a lot of money today, if it hadn’t been stolen later that year and so disappeared forever.
Source: A Moon Watch Story, Watchprint.com, 2019. In the box with the anniversary edition, there is naturally also a small Lunar Excursion Module with room for the watch. The modern, standard edition of the moon watch (ref. 318.104.22.168.01.005). Price DKK 36,200 The dial is a fine tribute to the first human beings on the moon.
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Watches & Jewellery
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Hermès Arceau L’heure de la lune Aventurin limited edition (100 pcs.). Price approx. EUR 25,000 + VAT
◉ Hermès How the moon phases work The easy way to show the phases of the moon in a watch is by using a gear with 59 teeth, which gives a relatively accurate representation of the lunar cycle of approximately 28.5 days. Such a system will not require adjustment for around 2 1/2 years. But there are also far more precise movements that make use of more sophisticated solutions; H. Moser & Cie, A. Lange & Söhne and Patek Philippe have for example all created watches with lunar phases that can remain accurate for 1,000 years.
The new Hermès Arceau L’heure de la lune represents a whole new way to show the moon phases. Normally you would use a sub-dial in which the moon appears and disappears again, but in this case the prioritisation has been turned on its head. The two moon discs, representing the view of the moon from the northern and southern hemisphere, respectively, are permanently mounted. The two mother-of-pearl dials showing the time and date, on the other hand, glide almost weightlessly across the lunar discs, thereby revealing the phase of the moon, which thus becomes the main feature of the watch. The views of the moon are laid out so that what we see from the northern hemisphere is located at the bottom, while the view from the southern hemisphere is located at the top, at the twelve o’clock position. A little confusing, but according to Hermès, the design is meant to be dream-inspiring. The model is in white gold, and comes in two dial variants: one with aventurine glass resembling the starry sky, and one with meteorite, reminiscent of the lunar surface itself. Both measure 43 mm and are intended to be unisex. The brand’s own patented calibre H1837 drives the movement. Hermès Arceau L’heure de la lune Meteorite limited edition (100 pcs.). Price approx. EUR 25,000 + VAT
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Jaeger-LeCoultre ◉Jaeger-LeCoultre has created this very feminine version of a lunar phase watch with a guilloché dial and 107 diamonds on the dial and bezel (total 0.70 ct.). The case measures 34 mm and is made of steel, and the watch comes with the brand’s own automatic calibre 925A movement. Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-vous Moon (ref. Q3578430). Price DKK 120,000
Montblanc ◉Montblanc has created a beautiful 36 mm ladies’
Droz ◉JaquetJaquet Droz creates small works of art, so when the company produces a lunar phase watch it is of course also something special. The disc is of the serpentinite rock type, which is reminiscent of the lunar surface. The 43 mm case is made of steel, while the details of the moon and stars are in white gold. The company has gone to great lengths and replaced the standard lunar phase mechanism with a version that will stay accurate for 122 years. Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Moon limited edition (88 pcs.) (ref. J007530271). Price on request.
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model with both the month, date and phase of the moon. The dial is full of detail, yet readable at a glance, and the eight diamonds light up. Inside is the brand’s own automatic calibre MB 29.17 movement. Montblanc Bohème Full Calendar 36 mm (ref. 119938). Price DKK 30,560
EXPECT MORE FROM YOUR SKIN CARE
Two strong anti-aging creams
Vitamin A Anti-Wrinkle Cremes Helps to reduce age degeneration and sun damages in the skin. It also rebuilds the collagen fiber structures, and helps the skin to become reinforced and rejuvenated.
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Watches & Jewellery
1 | Ring (large) in 18 kt. red gold and white gold with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds (total 0.26 ct.) and cabochon-cut, drop-shaped ruby. Price DKK 86,500
2 | Ring (medium) in 18 kt. red gold and white gold with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds (total 0.26 ct.) and cabochon-cut, drop-shaped ruby. Price DKK 79,500 3 | Brooch in 18 kt. red gold and white gold with 177 brilliant-cut diamonds (total 1.13 ct.) and cabochon-cut, drop-shaped ruby. DKK 136,000
Ole Lynggaard has just launched a collection inspired by cranes. The experienced goldsmith spent years studying these elegant birds before drawing and cutting out the final designs.
Slender characteristics, resolute movements and a spectacular dance: the crane is a captivating creature. Goldsmith Ole Lynggaard discovered this several years ago, and it became the start of a long creative journey to create the exquisite Cranes series – a numbered special collection from one of Denmark’s largest and best-known jewellery brands.
Drew and cut his way Ole Lynggaard has previously drawn inspiration from the animal world, including elephants and snakes, and from the moment he first saw the
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Goldsmith Ole Lynggaard spent three years developing the crane jewellery.
The crane as a symbol
By Kåre Peitersen
CRANE DANCE jewellery potential in the crane, there was no turning back. He spent hundreds of hours on creative development in the workshop. For three years, Ole Lynggaard studied, drew, folded and modelled cranes until he was finally ready to send his own birds into the world. “I made countless drawings and hand-cut cranes to make sure that the movements of the jewellery cranes are absolutely perfect. Hovering cranes hang from hooks in my ceiling and there are modelled cranes on my desk. I must have used half a dozen sketchbooks. I am very proud of the exquisite craftsmanship and lightness of the final
result. These jewellery pieces perfectly express my vision,” says Ole Lynggaard.
Part of the animal family Like the coveted Snakes and Elephant designs, Cranes is also an expression of Ole Lynggaard’s own interpretation. His jewellery crane is a hybrid of various species of crane, as the collection embodies both the long-necked elegance of the Japanese crane, the red-eyed beauty of the demoiselle crane and the friendly appearance of the common crane. The bird’s expressive beak, lower neck and legs
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The long-limbed cranes are assigned symbolic significance all over the world. Native American fishermen regarded flying cranes as a good luck sign. In the Orient, the crane stands for happiness, beauty and long life. In Japan, the crane is a sacred bird that is said to live for a thousand years. The bird’s monogamous nature makes it a natural symbol of fidelity and love. In ancient Greece and Rome, the crane was a symbol of light and of spring.
are brought to life in red gold, which stands in beautiful contrast to the silky-matte white gold of the neck and graceful wings. The head, neck and legs are elaborately studded with white diamonds in various sizes, while a blood-red ruby forms the bird’s red crown. “Creating a new collection is an extremely time-consuming process. It’s no secret that I’m no longer a young man – but there’s no expiration date on creativity. I’m still working and I get lots of new ideas. I’m looking forward to exploring Cranes even more and to developing more animal designs,” says Ole Lynggaard.
Watches & Jewellery
HOW A MECHANICAL
WATCH WORKS If you take your watch apart, you will find a mechanical microcosm of gears, springs, screws and discs that work together to accurately measure the time. Here you see an Omega calibre 8901 which measures 29 mm, contains 39 jewels and, with its twin mainspring barrels, provides 60 hours of power reserve. The movement has been used in the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600 meter, amongst others.
Balance The balance is the very heart of a mechanical watch, and this is where time is measured. The power of the tensioned mainspring is divided into tiny increments through the balance wheel and the spiral hairspring, which oscillate back and forth in precisely measured intervals – typically 5-6 times per second
Escapement The escapement consists of several parts which act together to ensure that the force of the spring is not released all at once. The escape wheel rotates by one notch until it is stopped by the pallet, which sets the balance wheel oscillating. When the balance wheel swings back, the pallet moves in the opposite direction, allowing the escape wheel to turn a notch more – and so it continues until there is no more power left in the spring.
Rotor A rotor is found only in automatic watches. Each time the watch is moved, the rotor rotates one turn, thereby slowly tightening the spring – and winding the watch up. .
Barrel The barrel (in this case there are two) holds the spring, which is the actual source of power in the watch. The spring is wound either via the rotor in an automatic movement, or by turning the crown. When the spring is wound up, it will try to unwind. This force is transmitted via a series of gears to the escapement.
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Date mechanism Here we see the date disc from the rear. The associated gears are shown below.
Guldsmed Apel · Store Kongensgade 58 · 1264 København K tlf. 33 13 28 31 · email@example.com · www.guldsmedapel.dk
READY FOR TAKE-OFF? By Kåre Peitersen
Pilots’ watches have really been getting some air beneath their wings. As usual, Breitling and IWC are leading with a number of exciting heritage watches, but Bell & Ross, Oris and Zenith also have some really good new items this year. Here come 11 pages of speed and power.
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Photo: Bell & Ross
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[ French flying watch ] Blancpain’s Air Command has been a sought-after and very rare vintage watch for many years, so a lot of people are probably delighted that a relaunch has been created in an almost identical design, but with updated contents. Air Command was originally produced for the French military in the early 1950s, and a few years later the US military also became interested. They had already selected Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms diving watch, and now they were looking for a pilot’s watch. Blancpain therefore produced a model with a chronograph, but it had not been produced in very many copies before the project ended. The new model comes with flyback chronograph, measures 42.5 mm and contains the brand’s own calibre F388B movement with a 50-hour power reserve. Blancpain Air Command limited edition (500 pcs.) (ref. AC01-1130-63A). Price approx. EUR 17,000 + VAT
[ From plane to watch to plane again ] Bell & Ross built their success on pilots’ watches inspired by the cockpit of a fighter jet, but now they’ve turned that on its head and designed a whole plane – and then made a watch to match. The plane is called Racing Bird and can be seen on the previous page. It is a super-slim and speedy machine, designed to take part in the spectacular Reno Air Race that takes place every year in the Nevada Desert in the USA. The competition dates back to 1924 and has the reputation of being the toughest of its kind in the world. The planes fly at high speeds (max. 909 km/h) and very low altitudes to fly around the just 10 metre-tall pylons on the closed and very crowd-friendly track. In other words, the race places great demands on both the pilot and the aircraft. Bell & Ross’s one-man Racing Bird is constructed of graphite, fibreglass and a titanium-aluminium alloy, while the engine is a V12 Rolls Royce, developed from the legendary Merlin engine that powered the British Spitfire fighter during the Second World War. The 9.5 metre long, slender design, with the cockpit drawn all the way back, is reminiscent of the high-speed planes of the 1930s, when attempts to set airspeed records were regularly being made. It is hard to imagine that a pilot would have time to look at a watch along the way, but of course, two newly-designed watches are part of the story, including this fine automatic chronograph with date function. Bell & Ross 41 mm limited edition (999 pcs.) (ref. BR V2-94 RACING BIRD). Price DKK 32,250
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[ Classic Oris with GMT ] Oris has here created a fine classic variant of the pilot’s watch, with date and GMT function (extra time zone at the red arrow). The watch measures 44 mm and is made of steel with fine details, including Oris’s own Lift buckle, inspired by the seat belt of an aircraft. You also have the possibility of choosing the special Ventile strap, made from a special type of weather-resistant cotton that was developed for the Royal Air Force during World War II. Beneath the sapphire crystal is the Oris 748 automatic movement (based on the Selitta SW 220-1), which provides 38 hours of power reserve. Oris Big Crown ProPilot Timer GMT (ref. 01-748-7756-4064). Price DKK 20,200
[ For everyday pilots ] Here, Citizen proves that a pilot’s watch need not be mechanical or expensive. This quartz model runs on sunlight via Citizen’s own EcoDrive technology, which absorbs energy from every kind of light. The technology dates right back to 1976 and ensures that you never have to change the battery – on a full charge, the watch will tick away for 270 days, even in total darkness. But it is also intended to be a pilot’s watch, and is therefore designed to be able to handle a trip of up to 12.5 km altitude. Citizen 43 mm (ref. CA4420-21X). Price DKK 1,995
[ Classic design with a modern twist ] Zenith is good at revitalising the classic pilot’s watch, with a highly streamlined design that points pleasantly back in time with its cathedral hands, font and oversized crown. However, this model has been given a modern twist with a new camouflage strap that makes the 45 mm bronze watch equally suitable for the higher altitudes and for everyday life closer to the ground. The movement is Zenith’s own automatic calibre Elite 679, which guarantees both precision and a 50-hour power reserve. Zenith Pilot Type 20 Adventure (ref. 29.2430.679.63.C814). Price on request.
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[ Danes help to bring a shot-up Spitfire back to life ] The Danish REC watch brand specialises in creating watches that utilise both design elements and original materials from various motorised design classics in world history. REC stands for RECover, RECycle and REClaim, and earlier models have been tributes to vintage cars such as the Ford Mustang and Porsche 911 – but with their latest collection the company has reached even further back into history, and has used a shot down World War II Spitfire aircraft as inspiration. The aircraft is no. PT879, and is now being restored in England by pilot Peter Teichman, who has devoted much of his time to the task. The small amounts of aluminium that he cannot recycle in the process are sent to REC, who integrate it into the watch design (the light material in the date display). Part of the proceeds from the sale of the watches goes to support Peter Teichman’s project. The design of the watch itself is inspired by various elements of the Spitfire aircraft and by the watches supplied to the British military during the war. The rotor is for example reminiscent of the metal rivets of the aircraft, while the crown is inspired by its nose – where from the side you can see the four indentations for the propeller. Beside the crown is a reference to the wing design, if you imagine it in section. Inside is a reliable Miyota calibre 9015 automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve. REC RJM-03. Price DKK 8,150
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Meget har ændret sig siden J.C. Filtenborg blev grundlagt i 1855. Men ikke fokus på design og kvalitet. Den nye kollektion forener Filtenborg’s historie med nutidens formsprog i et visionært bud på fremtidens brillemode. DA N IS H D E S IG N S IN C E 1 8 5 5
The hairspring has for the first time ever been manufactured in carbon fibre, which makes it immune to magnetic fields.
Green Autavia in bronze with leather strap (WBE5190.FC8268). Price DKK 32,500
Jack Dempsey is both a TAG Heuer ambassador and an experienced racing driver alongside his acting career.
AUTAVIA By Kåre Peitersen
– NOW AS A PILOT’S WATCH TAG Heuer’s Autavia series has been synonymous with sporty chronographs since the 1960s, but this year they have chosen to look up at the clouds for inspiration, and have created a series of pilots’ watches with a raw and masculine look. It’s not really surprising that TAG Heuer has chosen to extend the Autavia series this year, as there is a rapidly growing interest in vintage models from the 1960s and 1970s, and last year’s heritage editions were also a hit. What is surprising about the new line from Autavia is that they are not chronographs. Instead, the company has chosen a whole new direction and taken their inspiration from classic pilots’ watches. And that actually makes good sense, because the name Autavia is a contraction of ‘automobile’ and ‘aviation’ – so it lies in the DNA of the series to be inspired by the world of cars and aircraft – even if, traditionally,
TAG Heuer has tended to favour the four-wheeled perspective.
Inspired by the dashboard It all began in the years 1933 to 1957, when TAG Heuer produced an element named Autavia for the dashboards of racing cars. When production ceased, the legendary manager Jack Heuer saw his chance to reuse the name for the chronograph launched in 1962. Subsequently, a wealth of variants appeared in the popular series until 1985. The reborn Autavia has a robust and simple look. The case measures 42 mm and is fitted with a large
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Grey Autavia in steel with leather strap (ref. WBE5110. FC8266). Price DKK 27,500
crown, as is traditional for pilots’ watches. The dials are beautifully made with a slightly vintage look, in which the colours fade out. If you look inside the watch you will see TAG Heuer’s calibre 5 movement, which is chronometer-certified and, as an innovation, has been fitted with a carbon fibre hairspring. That means it is unaffected by magnetic fields, thereby ensuring constant precision. That is also why the term ‘Isograph’ has been added to the dial (from Greek iso meaning ‘the same’ or ‘identical’, and graph meaning ‘to write’). Autavia comes in five variants in steel and two in bronze.
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IWC Spitfire Chronograph 41 mm steel (ref. IW387901). Price DKK 49,500
At SIHH in Geneva, IWC launched the new items in their Spitfire collection, which includes both steel and bronze models as well as a limited edition that is on its way around the globe right now in an original 1943 Spitfire. IWC Schaffhausen has a long and proud tradition of producing pilots’ watches for the British military in the post-World War II period. However, the first IWC pilot’s watch saw the light of day in 1936 – the same year that the British Spitfire fighter plane was created. As it happens, this year sees another coincidence between the IWC’s classic Spitfire collection and the historic aircraft that won the Battle of Britain. The IWC has significantly expanded its Spitfire collection while also partnering with two pilots, Steve Boultbee Brooks and Matt Jones, in their project The Longest Flight. On 5 August, their newly-restored 1943 Spitfire took off and flew from Goodwood Aerodrome in southern England to Scotland. In the course of the autumn they will be flying right around the world, and on their wrists they will be wearing the new IWC Spitfire limited edition watch.
Spitfire – the ultimate freedom During SIHH, both the original Spitfire and the two pilots were present at the IWC stand, where Steve Boultbee explained that it was a dream come true for the two pilots, who run the Boultbee Flight Academy – the only place in the world you can learn to fly the legendary Spitfire. According to Steve Boultbee, flying in this machine is the most amazing feeling: “In modern aircraft, it’s a bit like
By Kåre Peitersen
IWC’S NEW SPITFIRE FLIES AROUND THE WORLD driving a bus. But a Spitfire is more like a coat you put on. It feels like being Ironman. If you pull back lightly on the stick, the machine responds at once and you can feel it right through your body. It’s joy, freedom and elegance.” Matt Jones added: “It’s the ultimate freedom, because it’s a very powerful, yet supple machine, so you can fly just as you please. In modern aircraft, there are lots of built-in safety systems that prevent you from doing so, but here you have the possibility of flying in a way that makes it feel like the aircraft is an extension of your body – and that’s a fantastic feeling.”
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During The Longest Flight the Spitfire will have to land frequently, as its range is quite limited. That means it will be possible to get up close to the aircraft if you are in the vicinity of the 43,000 km long route, which passes through 30 countries. Near Denmark, there will for example be a scheduled stop in December at Schiphol, the largest airport in the Netherlands. You can keep an eye on the aircraft’s flight plan on the IWC website.
Broad collection in steel and bronze In addition to the limited edition model, there are
The original Spitfire is from 1943.
Pilots Steve Boultbee Brooks (left) and Matt Jones (centre) with IWC Schaffhausen CEO Christoph Grainger-Herr at the SIHH gala dinner. The next day they were literally in their work clothes when they talked to the audience in the small auditorium about their project The Longest Flight, in which they intend to fly the newly restored 1943 Spitfire right around the world. Photo: David M. Benett/Getty Images for IWC
IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Spitfire Edition ‘The Longest Flight’ 46 mm limited edition (250 pcs.) (ref. IW395501). Price DKK 108,000
Spitfire model in bronze with titanium case back and matte, army-green dial measuring 39 mm, with 72-hour power reserve. IWC Spitfire Automatic (ref. IW326802). Price DKK 43,500
also a number of beautiful steel and bronze models with matte black and green dials, respectively (military watches must be matte so as not to give reflected glare). The inspiration came from the original Mark 11 that IWC created for the Royal Air Force in 1948, and which was worn by many pilots in the post-war era. The retro style matches the collection perfectly, and the green models in particular are successful and refreshing in their expression. All of the new Spitfire watches are also equipped with IWC’s own in-house movement, unlike previous models in the collection.
IWC UTC Spitfire Edition ‘MJ271’ limited edition (271 pcs.) (ref. IW327101). Price DKK 79,000
The original IWC Mark 11 was designed in 1948 for the pilots of the Royal Air Force.
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From left: Aviator 8 Chronograph 43 mm Curtiss Warhawk (ref. A13316). Price DKK 37,900
Aviator 8 Automatic 41 mm Curtiss Warhawk ref. M173152A). Price DKK 28,500
Aviator 8 B01 Chronograph 43 mm Curtiss Warhawk with Breitling’s own Manufacture Calibre 01 movement (ref. AB0119). Price DKK 52,300
AVIATION IS IN BREITLING’S DNA By Kåre Peitersen
With three new Aviator 8 models, Breitling is paying homage both to famous US aircraft manufacturer Curtiss Wright and to its own history, which has been closely linked with the aviation industry since the 1930s.
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The name of Breitling’s new Aviator 8 collection was not just conjured out of the air. The brand has been involved in designing watches and measuring instruments for the aviation industry for more than a century, and when Willy Breitling took over the family business in 1932 at the young age of nineteen, he applied the number eight to the department that was to develop pilots’ watches and instruments for both civilian and military use; the number refers to the eight-day power reserve that they were able to give their aircraft instruments. Today, the number eight has returned to the Breitling collections with links to the world of aviation, including the three new products of the year in the Aviator 8 collection entitled Curtiss Warhawk –
after the famous aircraft manufacturer Curtiss Wright and his legendary P-40 Warhawk fighter aircraft, which from 1938 to 1944 were part of the US Air Force during World War II.
The legendary Curtiss P-40 Warhawk fighter was part of the US Air Force during most of World War II.
In-house-produced movement At the launch, Breitling’s CEO, Georges Kern, said: “Curtiss Wright was producing the P-40 Warhawk at the same time as Breitling’s Huit Aviation Department was manufacturing cockpit instruments for use by the Royal Air Force and other aircraft. With these new watches, we confirm the central place of the aviation industry in Breitling’s history.” All three new models are COSC chronometer-certified and come in army green with a matte finish.
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Inside are three different watch movements, the most striking of which is the Breitling Manufacture Calibre 01, housed in the B01 chronograph. This has been entirely in-house produced, and provides a 70-hour power reserve.
A triangle points upwards, with a dot on either side, at the 12:00 position. This makes the watch easier to read in the dark.
A large crown that can be turned while wearing gloves.
Simple, matte dial with easy-to-read numbers – with optional chronograph, date, tachymeter and indexes to measure longitude.
Leather or textile strap that can be extended to fit over a flying suit.
HOW TO SPOT A PILOT’S WATCH [ Top Gun ]
IWC’s modern take on a pilot’s watch is the Top Gun collection, which first saw the light of day in 2007 and is named after the legendary Fighter Tactics Instructor programme in the US Air Force – and yes, this is where Tom Cruise flew around in the 1980s in the film of the same name. And next summer, it is said that he will be doing it again in
the sequel, Top Gun 2: Maverick. The model here shows the time and date, and is made of matte black ceramic. Inside the 41 mm watch is IWC’s own calibre 32110 movement, providing 72 hours of power reserve. IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic TOP GUN (ref. 326901) Price DKK 48,700
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September 2019 · Annoncetillæg • 137
[ Casio ProTrek for the active life ] Casio’s ProTrek series has been tested to US military standards and can therefore cope with quite a lot. The watch comes with a wealth of functionalities, including alarm, GPS, compass, barometer, altimeter and built-in microphone, so that you can activate your Android smartphone through Google’s voice control. The OLED touch screen displays maps and other graphics in excellent quality behind the hardened mineral glass. Casio PRO TREK (ref. WSD-F30-BKAAE). Price DKK 4,099
[ TAG Heuer for the golfer ]
SMART WATCHES FOR EVERY OCCASION
If you prefer hi-tech to old-fashioned mechanics, here are three great suggestions for a watch with lots of features.
The TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition is a coherently designed smart watch made of titanium, with a ceramic bezel of 18 figures for each hole on the course. The watch works with both iOS and Android, and comes with a newly-developed, free golf app with 3D drawings of more than 39,000 courses around the world, so that you can take a closer look at the terrain before placing a ball on the tee. You can also analyse your game and keep track of the round’s score for up to four players. TAG Heuer Connected Modular 45 mm Golf Edition (ref. SBF8A8031.82EB0172). Price DKK 19,000
[ Alpina for the mountaineer ] AlpinerX is a sporty hybrid watch that is designed to be the perfect companion for a trek up the mountains. You get a 45 mm Swiss-made quartz watch, equipped with a number of functions that can be read or set on the watch as well as in the app for your smartphone, including worldtimer, alarm, UV indicator, barometer, compass, thermometer and the possibility of keeping track of your daily activities and night-time sleep patterns. The battery lasts for a minimum of two years. Alpina AlpinerX Horological Smartwatch (ref. AL-283LNO5NAQ6L). Price DKK 7,500
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Watches & Jewellery
Citizen Group (Japan)
Citizen offers an interesting encounter between different watch cultures. In addition to the Japanese brand under its own name, it is also behind Arnold & Son, US Bulova, Swedish Kronaby and the Swiss brands Frédérique Constant and Alpina, amongst others.
Festina Group (Spain)
Movado Group (USA)
By Kåre Peitersen
Most of the well-known global watch brands are concentrated in a handful of international companies. Here is a summary of the most important ones.
Festina offers a range of sporty watches under the brand names Candino, Festina, Lotus and Calypso, and also owns the classic Swiss brands Perrelet and Jaguar.
Movado is one of the biggest players in the field of fashion watches. In addition to the Movado brand itself, its portfolio includes MVMT, Olivia Burton, Tommy Hilfiger Watches, Hugo Boss Watches, Ebel and Concord.
Richemont Group (Switzerland) Richemont is the leading group in the field of luxury watches, and is also the prime mover behind the SIHH trade fair in Geneva. The range includes IWC Schaffhausen, Vacheron Constantin, Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, A. Lange & Söhne, Roger Dubuis, Piaget, Officine Panerai, Baume & Mercier and Montblanc.
WHO’S WHO Fossil Group (USA)
Seiko Group (Japan)
Many Danes know Fossil because it bought the Danish watch brand Skagen a few years back. The group mainly produces fashion watches, i.e. relatively inexpensive watches with quartz movements. Its portfolio includes Fossil, Diesel, DKNY, Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs and Emporio Armani.
Kering Group (France)
Seiko is best known for its eponymous watch brand, but is also behind Credor, Pulsar, Lorus, Alba, Orient and not least Grand Seiko.
Swatch Group (Switzerland)
Swatch is the largest watch group overall. It is based in Bienne, Switzerland, and encompasses brands such as Omega, Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte Original, Harry Winston, Jaquet Droz, Longines, Rado, Union Glashütte, Tissot, Calvin Klein, Balmain, Certina, Mido, Hamilton and of course Swatch itself.
Historically, Kering has been best known for its fashion brands, especially Gucci, but in recent years it has also acquired a number of watch brands, and now disposes over classic Swiss watch brands such as Girard-Perregaux, Ulysse Nardin and JeanRichard.
LVMH (France) LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SA is the world’s largest luxury goods company, and is well represented on the watch side by Swiss brands such as TAG Heuer, Bulgari, Hublot and Zenith.
Certina is part of the Swatch Group. (ref. C032.430.16.051.00). DKK 5,150
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Despite many acquisitions and consolidations over the years, there are still some independent brands that play a major role, such as Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Rolex, Richard Mille, Breitling, Oris, Nomos, F.P. Journe, Parmigiani Fleurier, HYT, MB&F, URWerk, H. Moser & Cie and Christophe Claret.
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Watches & Jewellery
utomatic movement. A self-winding watch movement. When the watch moves, a rotor swings back and forth, winding up the mainspring.
alance. This is the heart of the mechanical watch and consists of the balance wheel, the hairspring and the escapement. Together, they measure out the force of the spring in tiny increments. Typically, the balance swings four times per second (a frequency of 2.5 Hz or 18,000 vph), which is what gives the watch its characteristic tick. See also page 122. Bezel. This is mounted on top of the case on certain watch types, notably diving watches.
alibre. The term for a specific watch movement, e.g. Omega calibre 562.
Carillon (repeater). An inbuilt chime or part of the watch case itself that is tapped with tiny hammers. Best known today is the minute repeater, which chimes the time when you press a button. It has one sound for the hours and another for the minutes. In order not to count too many times, the quarter-hour is indicated by a special double stroke. Chronograph. A stopwatch function – popular with sports watches. Chronometer. Originally a watch that was precise enough to be used for astronomical navigation. Today, COSC awards this designation to Swiss watches that have a precision of -4 to +6 seconds per day. Complications. The functions of a watch besides telling the time. These might for example include the date, the phase of the moon, a stopwatch or carillon. If a watch has at least three major complications, it is called a ‘grand complication’ and the watch will typically be called ‘grand’ - for example, Patek Philipp’s legendary Grand Master Chime. COSC – Contrôle Officiel Suisse des
Chronomètres. An independent non-profit organisation founded in 1973 with the task of controlling the quality and precision of Swiss-made watches. Crown. Used to wind up the watch and/or set the time and date. A screw-down crown is used with water resistant watches, as they are less permeable. When the time is set and the watch is wound up, the crown is screwed down into the case.
iving watch. A ‘real’ diving watch must be water resistant to a depth of 100 metres and meet the requirements of the international ISO standard 6425. See also page 32. Dress watch. There is no fixed definition of the term, but these are usually relatively simple watches that are small enough to easily fit under the shirt cuff when you’re wearing a suit. See also page 62.
TA (ETA SA Manufacture Horlogère Suisse). Swiss manufacturer that makes both mechanical and quartz movements, but not watches as such. ETA is owned by the Swatch Group, which therefore uses the movements in many of the group’s watch brands. Historically, a great many other brands have also used ETA movements.
requency. The frequency of the balance wheel, that is, the number of times it swings back and forth, is measured in either Hertz (Hz)
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which denotes the number of complete oscillations forward AND backward per second, or in vibrations per hour (vph) which denotes the number of swings, i.e. either forward or backward, per hour. Previously, the standard was 2.5 Hz or 18,000 vph, but a modern (mechanical) watch will typically have a frequency of 4 Hz/28,800 vph, while a so-called high-beat watch can reach 5 Hz/36,000 vph. It naturally requires more precision work to create a highbeat watch, which is why there is prestige in developing them – but the watch won’t necessarily be more precise for that reason.
MT. Greenwich Mean Time is the zero point in the international time scale. A GMT watch can display two time zones at once, even if the other zone is not necessarily Greenwich. This is a useful feature if you are travelling and need to know what time it is at home. Guilloché. An engraved pattern on the dial.
aute horlogerie means ‘fine watchmaking’ and can be seen as a counterpart to the haute couture of the fashion world. The term covers complicated and usually intricately decorated watches.
n-house movement. A watch movement produced by the watch brand itself.
ewels. Synthetic rubies or sapphires, used in places where the wear is greatest because
they last better than metal. The friction coefficient between steel and steel is for example 0.58, while for sapphire against steel it is just 0.15. As a rule of thumb a large number of jewels signals high quality, but nowadays the jewels are so inexpensive that they do not represent any value in themselves.
imited edition. This indicates a watch that is manufactured only in a limited number, and not, as usual, in relation to supply and demand. The trend is for more and more limited editions to be produced. Lugs. The parts of the case onto which the strap is attached. The distance between the lugs (lug width) is important when you need to buy a new watch strap or bracelet. Luminescence. Luminescent material, used especially to make markers and indicators clearer on diving and sports watches. In the old days this was the radioactive element radium, but today safer materials are used.
ainspring. The spring that supplies the energy in a mechanical watch. The spring is wound up either by turning the crown or – in an automatic movement – by means of a rotor that swings back and forth as the wearer’s arm moves. Manufacture. A designation for watch brands that make their own in-house movements. Moonphase. A complication that visually depicts the lunar cycle. Movement. The actual motor in a watch.
ATO strap. A one-piece strap, typically made of nylon or other braided or woven material, which is useful for sports and military watches that must be able to withstand water. At the same time, the NATO strap is mounted ‘double’, so that even if one spring bar breaks, the watch will remain attached to the wrist.
erpetual calendar. An advanced date
function that can keep track of the number of days in the month and leap years, which means that it only needs to be adjusted once every century. See also page 66. Pilot’s watch. There are no set rules for what a pilot’s watch should look like, but traditionally it is a relatively large watch with easy-to-read numbers and a large crown that can be turned while wearing gloves. The first pilot’s watches were pocket watches that were moderated and mounted on a strap. Power reserve. The number of hours that a mechanical watch can run when it is fully wound up – typically from around 40 hours and up to a week.
uartz watch / quartz movement. The most common type of watch in the modern era. A quartz watch uses a battery to supply the energy that the mainspring provides in a mechanical watch. Quartz watches are more accurate than mechanical watches and never need to be wound up. A quartz movement works by sending a carefully measured amount of current into a small quartz crystal, which causes it to vibrate at a desired frequency. This is then regulated down to 1 Hz – which is why a quartz watch is characterised by the second hand moving at one notch per second.
eference number. Each model from a watchmaking brand is equipped with a reference number, so that you can tell the difference between them. There are typically many models that are similar to each other, but if you need spare parts for a watch, or if you wish to buy or sell one, it is important to know the exact reference number. Rotor. This is positioned behind the movement in an automatic watch. Every time you move your arm, it rotates once and thereby slowly winds up the mainspring.
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apphire crystal. A particularly strong, scratch-free glass used for the front of the watch and possibly the back, if there is a view of the movement. Skeleton watch. A watch with a perforated dial so you can see the mechanism underneath. Swiss made. ‘Swiss made’ became a registered trademark in 1971 and today designates a watch that is at least 60% Swiss produced. The watch movement must be manufactured in Switzerland and the watch in its entirety must be assembled and checked in Switzerland.
achymeter. A scale used in certain diving watches and sports watches. It can be used to calculate your speed by measuring the time it takes to travel a kilometre. Tourbillon. French for ‘whirlwind’, but in a mechanical watch it is a device that rotates the central parts around the balance in order to counteract the effects of gravity. The tourbillon was invented in 1795 by French master watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet. In his day people used only pocket watches, which by their nature were in much the same position for most of the day, so it made good sense to counteract gravity with a tourbillon. Today, it is mainly a ‘show off’ element that demonstrates the highest quality of watchmaking.
orldtimer. A function which, via a rotatable bezel, makes it possible to see what time it is in all 24 time zones, typically represented by 24 major cities around the world.
Â©Photograph: Laurent Ballesta/Gombessa Project
Watches & Jewellery
Reader service Alexander Lynggaard www.alexanderlynggaard.dk
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Tag Heuer www.tagheuer.com
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