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THE ITALIAN-CANADIAN MAGAZINE MAILED TO HOMES & BUSINESSES IN THE GREATER TORONTO AREA
THE NEW EMERGING ITALIANS
COVER: MARIA GRAZIA RIVERSO ONE OF US • UNA DI NOI
JUNE / JULY 2013 • VOL.3 • NO.3
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
JUNE / JULY 2013 Volume 3 Number 3
EDITORIAL La stampa in lingua italiana in Canada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 McGill University Provost Tony Masi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Intervista all’Ambasciatore Gian Lorenzo Cornado . . . . . . 12
La Cantina: An Italian-Canadian Staple . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 La Cantina: The Italian Way . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 The ABCs of Homemade Prosciutto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Guide to Homemade Capicollo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Homemade Sausage and Soppressata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
LIFE & PEOPLE Mary Mauti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
FUTURE LEADER Cristina Tenaglia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
FOOD & WINE Alla ricerca del sapore perduto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 The University of Gelato . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Fired up for Pizza in Toronto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Making Neapolitan Pizza Classics at Home . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Grape Expectations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38
LIVING ITALIAN STYLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 FASHION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 ITALIAN HERITAGE MONTH Viva Vitalità . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 TRAVEL Italian Drop Zones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Un’estate al mare di Sicilia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
EXECUTIVE PUBLISHER AND EDITOR Tony Zara
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Filippo Salvatore
EDITORIAL DEPUTY EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Adam Zara MONTREAL WEB MANAGERS MANAGING EDITOR Gabriel Riel-Salvatore Gabriel Riel-Salvatore Claudio Ortu TORONTO MANAGING EDITORS Rita Simonetta Viviana Laperchia
PROOFREADERS Claudio Ortu Marie-Joëlle Proulx
ART DEPARTMENT ART DIRECTION David Ferreira
PHOTOGRAPHY Gregory Varano Michel Ostaszewski Giulio Muratori
GRAPHIC DESIGN David Ferreira
MAKEUP Desi Varano
ADVERTISING VICE PRESIDENT – MARKETING & SALES TORONTO Earl Weiner
ADVERTISING SALES EXECUTIVE David De Marco
CONTRIBUTORS Sabrina Marandola Sarah Mastroianni Giuseppe Mattoscio Sergio Mattoscio Francesco Caruso Carolina Caruso Alessia Sara Domanico Francesca Spizzirri Fabio Forlano Stephanie Grella Vanessa Santilli Liz Allemang Salvatore Difalco Danila Di Croce Alessio Galletti Alain Raymond Letizia Tesi Romina Monaco Laura Nesci Daniela Di Stefano Andrea Lepore Querido
ARTS & CULTURE Little Italy on the Silver Screen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Una scuola di cinema in Calabria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Patricia Fogliato’s Mad Ship . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Pino Daniele . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Between Takes with Antonio Cupo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Western University Italian Program . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 St. Clare Church Celebrates 100 Years . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
EVENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
SPORTS Lamborghini: Ferrucio’s Revenge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Confederations Cup Schedule . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62
26 Duncan Street, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5V 2B9 Tel.: 1.800.775.9428 I Fax: 416.438.3188 or by e-mail at: email@example.com Legal deposit - Bibliothèque nationale du Québec / National Library of Canada - ISSN: 1916-6389 Distribution par / by
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La stampa in lingua italiana in Canada tra passato, presente e futuro La sospensione il 4 maggio 2013 del Corriere Canadese, l’unico quotidiano in lingua italiana in Canada, nella zona metropolitana di Toronto, diretto da Paola Bernardini, fondato 59 anni fa da Daniel Iannuzzi, è innegabilmente una perdita per gli italofoni del Canada. Questa drastica decisione obbedisce ad una logica prettamente economica: la costante erosione del contributo ricevuto dal Dipartimento per l'editoria e le rigidità di applicazione della normativa esistente, ossia il mancato pagamento, alla Multimedia dei costi sostenuti per la produzione del giornale. La situazione è venuta a crearsi a causa delle problematiche e delle lungaggini legate al finanziamento ed alla erogazione dei contributi previsti alla stampa all’estero dalla legge sull’editoria del Governo italiano. uesta incresciosa situazione ci porta a fare alcune riflessioni sul ruolo che i mezzi d’informazione in lingua italiana al di fuori dei confini nazionali nell’età della rete telematica sono chiamati a svolgere nel presente ed in avvenire. I media tradizionali in sola lingua italiana, sorti in vari paesi di emigrazione negli ultimi cinque/sei decenni stanno affrontando un periodo di crisi, poiché sono arrivati alla fine di un ciclo, quello dell’emigrazione di prima generazione che cerca nelle testate sorte all’interno delle varie comunità espatriate un punto di riferimento per capire e tenersi in contatto con l’ evoluzione sociale della Madrepatria. Sui circa sessanta milioni di oriundi italiani solo una percentuale decrescente parla ancora, all’inizio del terzo millennio, la lingua madre e solo poco più di quattro milioni sono ancora cittadini italiani. Questi dati danno la vera immagine dell’Italia nel mondo. La questione da capire è dunque questa: il ‘sistema Italia’ può continuare ad esistere nel mondo se si usano diverse lingue, oltre all’italiano, per esprimerlo? L’ideale sarebbe di poter usare solo l’italiano, ma nella realtà dei fatti l’italianità è concepita ed espressa sempre più frequentemente usando lingue altre. Dalla fine dell’Ottocento alla seconda guerra mondiale i giornali pubblicati in vari paesi di emigrazione italiana sono stati il mezzo preferito usato dai cosiddetti ‘padroni’ per offrire servizi, diventare sostituti di uffici di collocamento, cambio di valuta, vendita di biglietti o di vari prodotti alimentari importati. È esistita anche una stampa dichiaratamente ideologica, voce di espatriati politici. Una dialettica politica, tra cavouriani, mazziniani o guelfi è esistita per esempio in paesi di vecchia e numerosa emigrazione come gli USA, il Brasile, o l’Argentina. Nei soli USA sono nate e scomparse oltre 2.000 piccole testate, da
prima l’unità d’Italia fino alla fine del secondo millennio. In Canada le testate pubblicate dal primo Novecento sono state circa una cinquantina. Nel periodo fascista la stampa in lingua italiana si è trasformata in città come Montreal, Toronto o Vancouver in mezzo di propaganda facendo combaciare italianità e fascismo con rare eccezioni come Il Cittadino Canadese di Antonino Spada, la voce dell’antifascismo italocanadese (la versione attuale de Il Cittadino Canadese, proprietà di un ex senatore filo-berlusconiano, fa rimpiangere la gloria passata). La versione cartacea di quotidiani e di settimanali, nel cinquantennio 1950-2000, indispensabili fino ad un decennio fa, prima cioè della rivoluzione telematica in corso, era una necessità e lo rimane per la vecchia generazione. Nel 2013 un numero crescente di lettori ha ricorso alla rete come fonte primaria e virtuale di informazione. Si tratta di un cambiamento epocale ed irreversibile in quanto la nascente nuova emigrazione italiana è costituita da giovani istruiti che hanno ricorso alla cosiddetta computer literacy, sanno cioè navigare nella rete digitale. Dei quasi due milioni di italocanadesi (censimento 2011) ormai meno di 500,000 parlano ancora l’italiano. Questo semplice dato statistico va preso come punto di partenza e di arrivo per capire qual è il ruolo della stampa in una lingua non-ufficiale come l’italiano in un paese come il Canada. La realtà canadese può essere presa come un esempio significativo dell’evoluzione occorsa in seno alle comunità italiane nel mondo e la base per le modifiche urgenti da apportare alla legge sul finanziamento alla stampa italiana all’estero. La stampa è un mezzo di informazione e di formazione, un contropotere in difesa della libertà. È la espressione scritta della cronaca, dei problemi, delle aspirazioni, delle sconfitte e delle vittorie singole e col-
lettive di una comunità. È la traccia duratura che lascia di sè e che con il passar del tempo diventa la sua storia. Tante piccole testate, in Canada e nel resto del mondo, non assolvono più a questo compito. Si limitano a tagliare e copiare notizie di agenzia. Sono diventate mere cinghie di trasmissione dei desiderata delle varie segreterie di partito. Venendo così meno al ruolo fondamentale della stampa: essere la voce degli ideali di libertà di pensiero e di responsabilità sociale ed etica. A cosa serve mantenere in vita testate di questo tipo anche se usano la lingua italiana? Perché escludere testate come Panoram Italia che da oltre un decennio sta portando alto il nome dell’Italia in Canada nella versione cartacea e in quella telematica usando oltre che l’italiano anche il francese e l’inglese? Tante sono le incongruenze presenti nella legge sull’editoria che non tiene conto dell’italianità nel mondo così come essa è veramente oggi. Invece delle tradizionali sovvenzioni basate sulla tiratura (nella stragrande maggioranza dei casi inflazionata), e il sistema farraginoso usato per determinare chi è eleggibile, il Governo di Roma potrebbe dare un contributo, dietro raccomandazione dei rappresentanti diplomatici, per mezzo di annunci pubblicitari per incentivare il Made in Italy o il turismo a testate che sono veramente tali. Gli editori della stampa che hanno l’Italia come punto di riferimento dovranno puntare sulla pubblicazione in rete, escogitare metodi diversi di attrarre lettori nuovi e sponsor pubblicitari nei paesi in cui operano, riducendo in tal modo la dipendenza dall'erogazione del contributo del governo italiano. E offriamo PanoramItalia, la rivista italocanadese più importante, come modello. Il Corriere Canadese a Toronto, i settimanali Corriere Italiano e Insieme a Montreal o altre piccole testate a Ottawa o a Vancouver non ci sono riusciti e ne stanno subendo le conseguenze e pagando il prezzo. (La Redazione)
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The impact of disruptive information and communications technologies on universities By Prof. Anthony C. Masi, Provost, McGill University esearch universities are under attack in virtually every jurisdiction in which they operate in advanced industrial democracies. The issues in this crisis are many, diverse, and often contradictory: funding models that are antiquated; cutbacks in government subsidies; tuition rates that are either too high or too low; expensive infrastructure that needs maintenance; costly equipment that cannot be easily replaced; students and employers interested only in practical skills training rather than in a broad, general, adaptable education; professors who must publish or perish on the road to tenure and who do not focus attention on their pedagogical approaches to teaching students; classes that are too big; too many classes that are too small; administrative apparatuses that are unjustifiably large and growing; Byzantine bureaucratic rules; and, disruptive uses of emerging technologies that have the potential to erode the foundations on which higher education has been built. A treatise could be written, and many have been, on each and every one of these issues. Here, however, I want to concentrate on the last one, the emergence of highly disruptive technologies and their impact on university education. There are four aspects that deserve serious consideration in this regard. First, the generation of students who are about to enroll in programs of study at research universities are what some commentators have labeled “digital natives” or “the born digital generation”. They are at ease with computers, touch screens, and smart phones in ways that make their parents, and certainly their grandparents, both proud and envious. Familiarity with these technologies affects the way digital natives think, study, and learn. So, how have universities prepared themselves for the arrival on their campuses of this born digital generation? Not well, I am afraid, is the answer. Our pedagogical approaches have still not adapted to this new style of learner and the new tools used to master materials. Professors are rarely given the opportunity to think about and improve their teaching, and they rarely teach with explicit learning objectives based on the experiences and expectations of the students in their classes. Universities have a lot of work to do on this front. Second, the born digital generation has grown up in an environment in which vast stores of information are readily available on the Internet and the means of accessing these data are ubiquitous. The size and scope of browser-based searches across the World Wide Web is nothing short of mind-boggling. Unfortunately, this data is not of uniformly high quality. Rather, more often than not, it leaves much to be desired. How do digital natives know which information is valuable and correct and which is questionable on both counts? At universities, professors create much, if not most, of the truly useful information available on the Web. But finding it can be a daunting task. The profession of librarian is constantly being reinvented to address these matters as libraries themselves cease being repositories for paper and are transformed into active learning spaces. But changing old bad habits is very tough. Librarians and pedagogues must work together with professors to help students sort the data on the Internet and World Wide Web to allow them to transform it into useful information. Professors’ research and the very nature of
research itself have to become part of the value-proposition for undergraduate students who attend research universities. Research and teaching must be seen as complementary and librarians have to be identified as key resource personnel. Third, the traditional physical design of classrooms does not encourage deep engagement with the process of learning. Active participation is required in order for learning to be most effective. Indeed, active learning rarely takes place in the lecture hall or when the only speaker in a seminar is the professor. If the technology is appropriately deployed and the information readily available, then why don’t we just flip the procedures: record the lecture and make the relevant reading and exercise materials available to students BEFORE they come to class, and then use class time to focus on the specific learning objectives. In order to do this, we need planners, designers, and architects to consider learning styles and information needs of digital natives so that professors can adapt physical spaces to fully engage students as active learners. Once again, professors and administrators know what we need to do, but we are not doing it fast enough or deep enough. Finally, given the technology, information, and pedagogy, one might ask why the community of active and engaged learners be created that extends far beyond the walls of the classroom or the gates of the university? There have already been some exciting and challenging experiments with higher education materials, but until recently many have originated outside of the university. The concept to which I am referring here is called a MOOC, a “massive open online course”. These are not just “canned” courses or recorded “talking heads”, but rather entirely new ways of packaging materials, conducting assessments, and ensuring quality, in order to teach incredibly large numbers of students, with success. The economies of scale are incredible – forget teaching a 1000 student introductory course, MOOCs can reach hundreds of thousands of learners, potentially millions, with a single offering. The challenge is that
many such enterprises which can, and do, offer quality products for interested and motivated learners are not directly affiliated with traditional institutions of higher learning, although they all use highly renowned professors from world-class universities to design, develop, and deliver MOOCs. Universities can learn a lot from these groups, and already are doing so. This includes creating not-for-profit consortia that plan to learn how to improve the residential campus experience for digital learners by experimenting with MOOCs. Taken together, these four trends, based on disruptive information technologies, represent a truly significant challenge for universities. Research universities can continue to be relevant to born-digital generations only if they take pedagogy seriously, enlist librarians to help students transform raw data into useful information and knowledge, convert traditional classrooms into active learning spaces, and deliver MOOCs in such a way as to make the experiences transferable to the oncampus face-to-face environment in which professors’ research feeds directly into the course. If universities, especially public research universities, are to survive into the twenty-second century of the Common Era, they will have to be creative in responding to the political, economic, and personal criticisms levied at them and in adapting to new expectations of students who are “digital natives”, and they will have to respond to “startups” entering the higher education arena. If universities were traded on the futures market, I would only buy stock in those that are addressing all four of the issues I have outlined above. I am pushing the one at which I work to do just that. Prof. Masi would like to acknowledge the financial support of the Max Bell Foundation. A longer piece on this topic, from which the above op-ed is drawn, will appear in the Literary Review of Canada in Fall 2013.
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Banks vs. Credit Unions
S.E. Gian Lorenzo Cornado è stato Console Generale d'Italia a Montréal, dal 2000 al 2004 e ha lasciato un segno indelebile della sua presenza nella nostra comunità. Panoram Italia l’ha incontrato all’inizio di maggio nella sede dell’ambasciata a Ottawa. PI: Ho avuto modo di parlare con alcuni giovani laureati della nuova immigrazione che trovano che il periodo del permesso di lavoro in Canada di sei mesi sia troppo breve. Vorrebbero che la lunghezza fosse estesa ad un anno, per aiutarli a trovare un’occupazione, migliorare la conoscenza delle lingue e fare esami integrativi, se necessario. E’ fattibile? GLC: Sei mesi non sono sufficienti per inserirsi in un Paese come il Canada e per avere un’esperienza di lavoro completa. Questo è il cosidetto programma VacanzaLavoro. Anche i Canadesi sono interessati a inviare i propri giovani in Italia per un periodo di un anno anziché di sei mesi. Ci sono delle questioni tecniche che bisogna risolvere sul piano bilaterale. Ci sono dei contatti in corso, li riavvieremo senz’altro e premeremo affinché si possa estendere ai ragazzi italiani lo stesso trattamento che viene offerto ai francesi, per esempio. PI: Un’altra richiesta fatta da molti giovani immigrati italiani è di spingere le autorità canadesi affinché ci sia l’equipollenza dei titoli di studio. Come si potrebbe operare? GLC: Il problema riguarda, in particolare, gli ordini professionali che difendono le proprie categorie, i propri iscritti e costituiscono una forma di tutela nei confronti degli studenti che hanno conseguito un titolo di studio, sopratutto in Québec. Però, credo che sia nostro compito, come Ambasciata, perorare la causa degli Italiani che vogliono utilizzare il loro titolo di studio in Canada e vederselo riconosciuto. Bisogna negoziare un accordo con le autorità locali, canadesi e quebecchesi. Sarebbe interessante vedere quali altri paesi hanno magari già risolto questo problema e cercare di seguire il loro esempio. Sarebbe un enorme valore aggiunto per il Canada e per il Québec poter accogliere ricercatori e professionisti italiani, come avviene negli Stati Uniti. PI: Quali sono i settori in cui l’Italia è maggiormente presente in Canada? GLC: Ci sono delle grosse possibilità per un’azienda italiana per insediarsi in Canada e fare affari. Il Canada è un’isola felice. È l’unico Paese occidentale che è sfuggito alla recessione. Pensiamo all’industria dolciaria, alla Ferrero, che è presente in Ontario e che distribuisce i suoi prodotti non solo in Canada ma anche negli Stati Uniti. C’è anche il settore tecnologico, naturalmente. Nel settore petrolifero c’è una presenza della Saipem e dell’Eni in Alberta. Sono settori di punta ad altissimo potenziale dove esiste la possibilità di migliorare i rapporti e di promuovere gli investimenti, la partecipazione e la presenza di altre aziende italiane. Il 17 maggio a New York ho parlato agli imprenditori italiani negli Stati Uniti e li ho incoraggiati ad investire anche in Canada, ad aprire succursali e filiali. C’è l’errata valutazione che si può lavorare con i Canadesi dagli Stati Uniti. Bisogna lavorare con i Canadesi dal Canada. Il settore petrolifero in Alberta è in rapida crescita. Il Canada è il terzo paese produttore di petrolio al mondo. PI: La stampa in lingua italiana in Canada è in crisi. Testate storiche stanno chiudendo, come il quotidiano
di Toronto “Corriere Canadese”. Il contributo dato dal governo italiano è stato ridotto, poi ci sono stati anche dei casi in cui i finanziamenti dati ad alcune testate non corrispondevano alla realtà dei fatti perché hanno aumentato la tiratura. È possibile rilanciare la stampa in lingua italiana su basi diverse? GLC: C’è stato un momento in cui stava per essere tagliato completamente il contributo alla stampa all’estero. Poi il Presidente del Consiglio e il Ministro degli Esteri sono ritornati su questa decisione proprio perché non si voleva privare la comunità italiana all’estero di uno strumento così importante. I mezzi l’anno scorso sono stati veramente pochi. Io mi auguro che quest’anno le condizioni generali finanziarie siano migliori. Bisogna vedere quali sono le effettive disponibilità di fondi. La stampa italiana all’estero vive di contributi pubblici; è assolutamente necessario continuare ad aiutare i giornali italiani all’estero, segnatamente quelli in Canada. Per quanto riguarda le irregolarità, faremo molta attenzione da qui e dai vari Consolati perché ogni contributo sia predisposto secondo la legge con il massimo rigore. PI: La legge vigente, prevede che vengano dati contributi alla stampa italiana all’estero solo se si usa la lingua italiana. Non le pare che ci debba essere un emendamento o un cambiamento della legge per includere le testate che usano, oltre che l’italiano, una lingua locale, ad esempio il tedesco o il francese in Europa, lo spagnolo o il portoghese in America Latina, o il francese e l’inglese qui in Canada? GLC: Occorrerebbe discuterne a livello del Ministero degli Esteri, a livello di comunità italiana e a livello parlamentari italiani che portino le istanze per la modifica tramite emendamento al Parlamento italiano. La legge vigente purtroppo permette solo di finanziare giornali o testate in lingua italiana. Capisco la frustrazione che può provare un editore come quello di Panoram Italia, una rivista bellissima a larga diffusione, che quindi ha dei costi considerevoli, e che dà un grosso contributo all’informazione della comunità italiana perché è di altissima qualità. Al momento, ripeto, la legge in vigore ci permette di finanziare soltanto la stampa in lingua italiana. Però tramite la sensibilizzazione alla Farnesina e tramite i parlamentari eletti all’Estero si potrebbe fare un ragio-namento diverso. PI: Una delle raccomandazioni dei 10 Saggi al presidente Napolitano, era l’eliminazione della Circoscrizione Estero. Lei, come vede la questione del voto all’estero? GLC: E’ una questione sensibile. Lei sa che ci sono state numerose proposte da parte di formazioni politiche nella scorsa legislatura per emendare la legge sul voto e sul voto degli Italiani all’estero. Vi sono molte sensibilità politiche presenti, credo che sia preferibile affrontare questo argomento quando avremo maggiori elementi. Vedremo quale sarà l’atteggiamento delle forze politiche e quali proposte di modifica della legge Tremaglia verranno presentate in Parlamento.
It’s true that credit unions and banks provide a similar range of financial services, from daily banking to retirement planning, but delve deeper and it becomes clear that credit unions are decidedly different. Credit unions are democratic cooperatives The first credit unions were established because big banks made it difficult for average citizens to borrow or invest. Whereas banks are focused on the value of their shares, their shareholders are not necessarily their customers. Credit Unions are co-operatives where customers become owners. At IC Savings, each customer receives one share and becomes an equal shareholder with an equal vote. Better services and benefits Credit unions offer the same full range of services as banks–from RRSPs, mutual funds and other investment options to expert financial planning. Another major benefit of credit unions is their “ding-free” ATM network, which allows members to take out cash from any credit union ATM without paying additional surcharges. Credit unions are friendly Outstanding customer service is one of the hallmarks of credit unions. Whether you’re opening a new account or seeking the services of an investment specialist, knowledgeable staff members are on hand to help. Credit unions routinely rank higher than banks in customer service and satisfaction surveys. Community comes first Much of the decision-making with Credit Unions rests at the local level. Banks, on the other hand, tend to be managed by a central office, with their view on national and even international markets. Credit Unions care for their communities because they are creatures of communities whether from an affinity bond or a geographic region. They express this care by contributing to the social and economic well being in ways ranging from sharing profits with their members, to making donations on the their behalf, or simply providing financial services in support of their local communities. IC Savings has its roots in the Italian Community but has become an integral part of all the neighbourhoods that it serves; welcoming all Canadians that are looking for a “Better Banking Experience”.
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La Cantina An Italian-Canadian staple It’s the vault in every Italian-Canadian household. That small, dark place that holds the family’s most cherished possessions; the fruit of its hard work and manual labour. So if you’re ever invited into an Italian-Canadian family’s cantina, consider it an honour. By Sabrina Marandola Photography by Michel Ostaszewski
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xperiencing a cantina makes everyone feel a little more Italian,” says David Szanto, a PhD Gastronomy student, who also teaches at Concordia University in Montreal, and l’Università delle scienze gastronomiche di Brà in Italy. From cured meats, damigiane of wine, jars of pickled food and canned tomato sauce, the cantina displays an Italian family’s history, tradition, and above all, identity. “In terms of identity, food is critical,” Szanto says. “For Italians in Italy, the place they live, the language they speak and the food they eat is deeply interconnected to identity.” So when Italians immigrated to Canada in waves after the First and Second World Wars, leaving Italy meant leaving behind a part of who they were. “The ‘place’ was gone,” Szanto explains. “The cantina becomes a recreation of the old place. It’s a figurative representation of home, and it’s where they keep homemade food.” Add to that the fact that most Italians who immigrated did so to escape poverty and hunger. It becomes easy to understand why food – making, preserving and storing it – played such a significant role in defining the Italian way of life here in Canada. “The cantina is a safety net against hunger. It represents a surplus,” Szanto says, adding that back in the old country, many didn’t always know where their next meal would come from, or if they’d have a bad harvest one year. “For new immigrants, life is chaotic, new and scary. They are looking for stability and food security. The cantina created a kind of security that new immigrants would want to have. It’s an emotional and psychological sense of security.” That’s why today, the cantina is a staple in the homes of many Italian immigrants across Canada.
When Italians started to come to Canada, they immediately began growing, preserving and storing their own food as they worked toward living a better, richer life where they wouldn’t go hungry again.
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Today, many older Italian-Canadians still maintain a cantina – their way of practicing “Slow Food” long before it was a marketing buzzword. “Slow Food is about having a firsthand connection to your food,” Szanto says, adding that every family has its own distinct recipes and methods for preserving homemade foods in their cantine.
But is the cantina still a place that reflects identity? Recipes have changed from the homeland, as immigrants have had to use local products they could find here in Canada to produce and preserve their food. And what about those who don’t have a cantina? “The cantina is disappearing,” says Szanto, adding that new generations are Italian-Canadian – not “Italian.” “There are other places now where Italian-Canadian identities are being enacted.” Regardless of whether or not the cantina will survive in the homes of young Italian-Canadians, Szanto says it will forever remain a link to our roots. “The cantina lets us feel connected to our history.”
“After the First World War, when Italians started moving to Toronto and Montreal, they were using empty plots of land outside of the city for gardens,” explains Master of Geography Cedric Capacchione. “It was a direct transition: they went from the Italian countryside, and imported those customs into the city.” When the second, and bigger wave of immigrants came over after the Second World War, families often got together to buy a home, and eventually modified their basements to include a cantina. “As soon as they could afford to buy their own homes, Italians set up secondary kitchens in the basements, and built cantine,” Capacchione says. And building their own cantina further cultivated the immigrants’ sense of identity. That’s because who you are is based on what you do, according to Szanto. “Identity is performed: it’s what we do. Italians would build their own cantina, they would make the food in it, and eat that food. They were constructing and consuming, so the cantina serves as a double-identity reinforcer. There is the saying, ‘You are what you eat.’ But in fact, it goes beyond that. You are what you make.” And while Italian immigrants were making their own food in their own cantine as a way to tap into who they were and where they came from, they were cutting down on expenses at the same time. “They would buy a pig and cure the meat themselves. They were able to save significantly on the cost of living this way. They were supplementing their income with agriculture, and this is something that is almost uniquely specific to the Italian community,” Capacchione says, adding it’s the equivalent of an immigrant coming to Canada today, and being able to afford a home after working a minimum-wage job for just a few years. “Because they came from an agricultural background, they saw the household as an economy. The family was seen as a giant unit.”
Please submit your picture on www.panoramitalia.com by clicking on ‘Magazine’ followed by ‘Graduates of the Year,’or by mail, and include the graduate’s name, institution, and field of study. Cost is $35. Deadline: July 8, 2013
Pictures will appear in the August/September issue Si prega di inviare la foto a www.panoramitalia.com e cliccare prima su ‘Magazine’ e poi su ‘Graduates of the Year’, oppure spedirla per posta indicando: nome, titolo, programma di studio e istituto di provenienza. Scadenza: 8 luglio, 2013
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26 Duncan Street, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5V 2B9 PA N O R A M I TA L I A . C O M
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Rosario De Simone
La Cantina The Italian way By Sarah Mastroianni
Photography by Gregory Varano and Giulio Muratori
Though Italian immigrants weren’t able to bring much in their trunks and suitcases on the voyage to Canada, nestled among their belongings were many of the same things: hopes, dreams, skills, memories and traditions to serve them as they built a new life in Canada. Among the many traditions that survived the move is that of the family cantina, still alive and well today in many Italian households across the GTA.
ust as the dinner table is an integral part of Italian culture, so is the cantina, which houses and protects the delicacies that are then proudly offered upon the table for friends and family to enjoy. “For me, the cantina is very convenient,” Maria Grazia Riverso says. “Anything we have to keep cold, we keep it in there – sauce, wine, salami, and sometimes crushed grapes.” While the cantina is convenient, it doesn’t have to be modern, according to Riverso, who lives in Vaughan. “You could put tiles in, but it can’t be finished like the house. It’s better to leave it a bit rustic,” she advises. In the country where many immigrants encountered various modern conveniences for the first time, the rustic cantina still merits a mention among household conveniences even today. At the Oakville home of Maria and Pasquale Pelusi, who also make and store their own wine, oil, vinegar and sauce, the cantina plays an important role in their family’s daily life. “When I have a house, I have a cantina,” Maria says. “Even our daughter has one.” For Woodbridge resident Joe Coppola, the cantina is more than a convenient storage space; it’s a place to showcase the work that goes into making the food staples that are the backbone of Italian culture. “We make our own pasta, our own peaches, pears and strawberries. It’s nice, but it’s hard work,” Coppola explains, adding that he and his wife also produce roasted peppers and eggplants as well as three different types of sauce. Despite the hard work, Coppola assures that all his efforts are worth it: “There’s nothing better than what you do for yourself. It’s better than what you purchase. I know the hard work that went into it.” If it wasn’t evident before, Coppola makes sure there’s no mistaking how he feels about his cantina. “My cantina is the proudest thing I have here,” he explains. And it shows. But it’s not only pride in his work that makes his cantina important to him – it’s a 16
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deep appreciation of the wholesome food and wine he produces and stores there. When Coppola eats food from his cantina, he says, “I know exactly what I’m eating or what I’m drinking. It’s beautiful to keep up the tradition because it’s an all natural thing.” Rosario De Simone, who lives in Innisfil, feels the same way. Talking about the various foods and wine he produces for his cantina each year, De Simone is sure to add,
“I keep everything original. I don’t put any additives, nothing.” In today’s day and age, where “organic” is an expensive buzzword and organic foods are not the norm, the cantina’s stocked shelves serve as a reminder of the simplicity and goodness of the Italian food-making tradition. Similarly to Riverso, Coppola, and the Pelusis, De Simone uses his cantina as a storage spot for the many things he produces at home: olives and sausage, to name a few, and of course, wine. “Where else would you keep it?” he laughs, referring to the damigiane of homemade wine he produces each year. He’s not a fan of the store bought stuff, but rather “the good stuff,” which can be found in his cantina. “Everybody likes the good stuff. It’s work though. If you want to keep the tradition alive, you have to keep working,” he says. In addition to the wholesome stockpile of food the cantina provides, De Simone views his cantina as a link to his past. “I came from the old country,” he explains.
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LA CANTINA “I tried to keep the traditions that were there. It’s how I was brought up. If you really want to keep your roots, then that’s how you do it.” Pasquale and Maria Pelusi, both of whom fondly recall having a cantina in their respective family homes, are of the same mind. They maintain the importance of the tradition within their family. “We grew up like that,” the couple states. Maria adds, “For me, it’s important to keep the tradition.” In the hearts and minds of many Italians of a certain age, the cantina means more than just carrying on a tradition – it’s a place steeped in memories.
“I was always with my dad and his wine. I had to be there [in the cantina] helping him,” recalls Coppola. “As you grow older, you say, ‘It’s beautiful that we brought with us all that we learned from our parents,’ ” he says and adds that he hopes the new generations will continue to keep a cantina in years to come – a sentiment echoed by Riverso, De Simone and the Pelusis. “If we don’t do it,” explains Maria Pelusi about keeping up the tradition of the cantina, “our kids won’t do it, then our grandkids won’t even remember what it is.” The culture of the cantina has remained so deeply woven into the fabric of life for Italians even after immigrating to Canada, that both Coppola and De Simone wouldn’t consider
purchasing a house that didn’t have one. “No cantina, no deal for the house,” De Simone recalls saying when he was looking for his most recent home. According to Coppola, his house-hunting criteria were much the same. “That was priority number one!” he laughs. “I made sure it had a cantina. I wouldn’t do without it.” But Pasquale and Maria Pelusi warn that not all cantinas are created equal. It’s something they learned the hard way when they moved into their current home expecting the cantina to work the same as the one they’d enjoyed in their previous house. “In the new house, the cantina’s not the same. I don’t know why,” explains Maria, who was very disappointed when the salami they cured didn’t turn out the way she had expected. In order to combat this possible problem, De Simone uses a dehumidifier in his cantina and keeps a vigilant eye on the amount of moisture in the air. He explains that the level of humidity has to be just so in order for his meats to cure properly – a little bit of science woven into the art of keeping a cantina. In De Simone’s opinion, all the talk of tradition, hard work and wholesome food boils down to one simple sentiment. Why keep a cantina?
“If you want to do things the Italian way,” he says, “you must have a cantina.” The passion with which Riverso, Coppola, De Simone and the Pelusis speak about their cantinas only reinforces the idea that even in Canada, the tradition of the household cantina has remained central to eating well, living well, and being Italian. Viva la cantina!
“In the new house, the cantina’s not the same. I don’t know why.”
Maria Grazia Riverso
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The ABCs of Homemade Prosciutto Recipe by Giuseppe and Sergio Mattoscio
Photography by Michel Ostaszewski
Prosciutto is a common staple in Italian households. Often associated with the renowned antipasto duo of prosciutto-melone, there are tons of ways to enjoy this seasoned delicacy, the best probably being alone or in a tasty panino. While most would tend to buy it sliced at their local butcher shop, others will venture into curing it themselves in their own cantina for a fraction of the cost. rices vary from $90 to $110 for an entire “prosciutto canadese” and from $130 to $150 for its Italian counterpart, while raw ham (hind leg or thigh) can be found at any butcher shop for approximately $3 per kilo (around $40 for a whole leg). An entire prosciutto requires up to a year of aging, altough the thinner
Ingredients • • • • • • •
13 kg (approx.) freshly butchered ham 1/4 cup hot peppers 1 cup ground black pepper 1 cup paprika 2 cloves garlic 1 cup white wine 1 kg coarse salt
Tools • • • •
“S” hook Butcher twine Boning knife Pan for salting
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boneless base (lower part) of the prosciutto should be ready to eat first after close to six months. Bear in mind that it is always better to start your prosciutto in November as the colder winter months will ensure optimal aging conditions. A cooler cantina will keep the meat from going bad at the initial stage of the curing process when it is still raw.
Directions on preparing the meat Make sure the ham is properly cut and that the leg bone has been cleared of extra skin and fat. All the odds and ends that you recuperate in the process can be used to make a tasty stew or Bolognese. Even the fat can be fried up or baked onto a focaccia. The main technique for deboning (exposing the bone) of the prosciutto is following the leg bone as closely as possible without damaging the meat around it. You will then reach a joint bone that will detach itself quite easily. You want the leg bone to be exposed in order to help the drying process and prevent the meat from rotting. *You can ask your butcher to debone it for you. Keep the bone as it will make a great broth. Clean out the excess blood remaining in the ham by applying pressure on the skin with your fist from the bottom of the leg towards the thigh. Soak up extra blood with a rag. *You can also remove the bone completely and then press the prosciutto before hanging it. Once the cleaning is complete, apply pressure onto the top of the ham to bend the joint. This is a very important step as it will help the salt penetrate and cure the meat properly. Finally, make a hole between the two vertical bones of the ankle. Allow your knife to penetrate between these two bones until it goes through to the other side. Then twist the blade in the hole to make sure it is wide enough. This is where you will be hanging the prosciutto from for the drying process.
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