Cosmetiscope - Summer 2016

SUMMER 2016 • Vol. 22 No. 6

New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists

www.nyscc.org

The Advent of the PhoneGnostic …by Daniela De Lucia

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t is no secret that technology is changing our world faster than ever and, as historically occurs, big changes provoke mixed feelings: negative, positive, fear, excitement, or skepticism. What is certain is that such a change cannot be ignored anymore and it would be shortsighted to do so!

In this short piece, I would like to direct the attention of my colleagues to an important breakthrough that has the potential to disrupt our industry—something that I have termed PhoneGnostic. The first step in this direction has already been taken with the design of digital apps that, using a smartphone camera, enable monitoring of wrinkles, acne breakouts, etc. (e.g., MySkinography from La Roche-Posay).

With the term PhoneGnostic I am referring to a branch of the mobile health (mHealth) based portable systems.1 These are diagnostic tools, previously available only in research laboratories, that once in the hands of patients/consumers have the potential to raise their awareness to an entirely different level.

A significant number of studies in the field of mHealth devices have been particularly focused on smartphone based

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microscopy systems.2-4 The design approach of phone based microscopy can be divided into three specific areas: 1) a holography lensless approach in which images collected by the smartphone camera are post-processed,5 2) lens devices that generally employ a refractive element directly attached to the smartphone camera at the focus, and 3) a ball lens attached to the front of the camera lens.6,7 This latter approach includes the majority of reported smartphone based microscopy designs in which a clip-on attachment is used to mount the hardware (commercial objective or low cost singlet lens) to the smartphone.7 To date, efforts to develop these systems have been directed towards enabling health professionals in remote areas of the planet to assist in their jobs and save lives, enabling them to detect serious ailments, such as malaria.2 But what about when those diagnostic systems are developed to evaluate and track skin health and other metrics related to the biophysical state of the skin?

Mintel, in their Trends 2025 report, highlighted how technology and beauty are no longer two separate worlds. Consumer expectations are for beauty and technology to become integrated. Mintel reported that 48% of UK suncare users are interested in an app that tracks changes in their skin or moles (SkinVision is an existing app that monitors moles, although it is not considered a diagnostic tool, just a monitoring tool) and 30% of U.S. women claim to be interested in facial skincare products with integrated diagnostic tools.

For this reason, we should soon expect the development and release of PhoneGnostic tools dedicated to beauty.

This could happen sooner than one would think.

OKU is a small instrument, developed by MySkin Inc., with its own iPhone app, designed to monitor biophysical parameters of the skin, that should be available later this year. The science behind OKU is based on diagnostic techniques such as dermoscopy (skin microscopy at 10x magnifications) and opto-magnetic imaging spectroscopy (OMIS; a technique based on the interaction of electromagnetic radiation with

2 0 1 6 N Y S C C G O L F O U T I N G • Crystal Springs Resort, Hamburg,

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2016 NYSCC BOARD OF DIRECTORS & PROGRAM CHAIRS CHAIR Rey Ordiales (732) 878-7798 reyordiales@outlook.com

CHAIR-ELECT Marie Thadal (609) 712-3716 chairelect@nyscc.org

TREASURER Cathy Piterski (201) 675-3799 cpiterski@essentialingredients.com

SECRETARY Giorgino Macalino (862) 324-2749 Secretary@nyscc.org

ADVISOR Kim Burch (609) 443-2385 Kim.Burch@elementis.com

HOUSE Mohamed Abdulla (973) 487-6572 house@nyscc.org

MEMBERSHIP John Carola JohnC@protameen.com

PROGRAM John Goffredo (267) 318-6168 john.goffredo@univarusa.com

COMMUNICATIONS Stephen Weinberg (973) 307-4854 webmaster@nyscc.org

SPECIAL EVENTS Gillian Ratto (723) 788-7320 Gillian.Ratto@elementis.com

COSMETISCOPE EDITOR Roger McMullen roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

COSMETISCOPE ASSISTANT EDITOR Joe Albanese (908) 456-2968 joealbanese2@gmail.com

COSMETISCOPE ADVERTISING Bret Clark rbclark@ashland.com

COSMETISCOPE EMPLOYMENT Joel Diaz diaz.joel.a@gmail.com

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the material under examination)—techniques originally developed for early detection of tissue damage related to melanoma and other skin cancer.9,10 As we are in the age of personalized healthcare and precision medicine, I envision them to soon become a reality in the hands of the consumer that will perhaps enable them to evaluate their desquamation index, cutaneous micro relief, cutaneous lipid status, etc. with a high degree of precision, possibly attaining proficiency comparable with professional instruments currently available.

This will create a scenario that would put beauty products under higher scrutiny as the consumer would be able to analytically track, through those analytical tools, the progress and changes in his/her skin health and aesthetic, and would be able to identify, across the brands, which product really is the best for his/her skin.

Even for those who are not directly involved in the development of these PhoneGnostic tools, we, as scientists, must ask ourselves how the advent of such diagnostic devices will transform the industry, i.e. how will these changes affect cosmetic research, the way products are formulated, and the product classes themselves.

It is important to be aware that any analytical instrument currently used in a cosmetic lab, which uses a set of lenses and lights, a microscope, and anything based on optical imaging, can and most likely will be, in the future, transferred to a smartphone integrated platform. It is just a matter of time.

References 1. S.A. Boppar and R. Richards-Kortum, Point of car and point of procedure optical imaging technologies for primary care and global health, Sci. Transl. Med., 6(253), doi: 10.1126/scitranslmed.3009725 (2014).

2. C.W. Pirnstill and G.L. Coté, Malaria diagnosis using a mobile phone polarized microscope, Sci. Rep., 5, 13368, doi: 10.1038/srep13368 (2015).

3. D.N. Breslauer, R.N. Maamari, N.A. Switz, W.A. Lam, and D.A. Fletcher, Mobile phone based clinical microscopy for global health applications, PLoS One, 4(7), e6320, doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0006320 (2009).

4. H. Zhu, O. Yaglidere, T.W. Su, D. Tseng, and A. Ozcan, Wide-field fluorescent microscopy on a cell-phone, Ann. Int. Conf. IEEE Eng. Med. Biol. Soc., 6801-6804 (2011).

5. D. Tseng, O. Mudanyali, C. Oztoprak, S.O. Isikman, I. Sencan, O. Yaglidere, and A. Ozcan, Lensfree micrscopy on a cellphone, Lab Chip, 10(14), 1787-1792, doi: 10.1039/c003477k (2010).

6. Z.J. Smith, K. Chu, A.R. Espenson, M. Rahimzadeh, A. Gryshuk, M. Molinaro, D.M. Dwyre, S. Lane, D. Matthews, and S. Wachsmann-Hogiu, Cell-phone-based platform for biomedical device development and education applications, PLoS One, 6(3), e17150. doi: 10.1371/journal.pone.0017150 (2011).

7. A. Arpa, G. Wetzstein, D. Lanman, and R. Raskar, Computer Vision and Pattern Recognition Workshops (CVPRW), 2012 IEEE Computer Society Conference, 23-28 (2012).

8. R. Schiffner , J. Schiffner-Rohe, T. Vogt , M. Landthaler, U. Wlotzke, A.B. Cognetta, and W. Stolz, Improvement of early recognition of lentigo maligna using dermatoscopy, J. Am. Acad. Dermat., 42(1), 25-32 (2000).

9. D. Koruga, A. Tomić, Ž. Ratkaj, and L. Matija, Classical and quantum information channels in protein chain, Materials Science Forum, 518, 491-496 (2006).

10. A.G. Goodson and D. Grossman, Strategies for early melanoma detection: Approaches to the patient with nevi, J. Am. Acad. Dermat., 60(5), 736-737 (2009).

About the Author:

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r. Daniela De Lucia is currently conducting post-doctoral research at IFF – Lucas Meyer Cosmetics.

She obtained her Ph.D. in Pharmaceutical Sciences in 2015, spending half of her tenure at University of Cambridge (UK) in the group of Professor Steven. V. Ley. Her research focused on the design and synthesis of new multi-target drug candidates. Her thesis resulted in several scientific publications, and she was recently recognized for the best Ph.D. thesis of the year by University of Ferrara, where she was also awarded the additional title of Dr. Europeaus.

Previously, Daniela obtained a Master’s degree in Pharmacy from University of Padua in Italy. Her final year research project on the study of polymeric emulsifiers was recognized as the best Italian Master’s research work in the field of Medicinal Chemistry and Pharmacy through the Paolo Borsellino National Award. Daniela presented this work as a poster at the 2012 IFSCC Congress.

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23rd Annual NYSCC Golf Outing!

Thursday, July 21st • Registration 11:00 a.m-12:30 p.m. • Shotgun Start 1:00 p.m.

Crystal Springs Resort 1 Wild Turkey Way, Hamburg, NJ 07419 Course Phone: (855) 977-6473

Registe!r Early

Golf 180 $

per person.

Limited Space!

Includes: Box lunch, 18 holes of golf with cart, cocktail reception and dinner …plus door and skill prizes and gifts.

The outing is open on a first come first serve basis (the course has a limit).

You do not have to be an SCC member to play. Foursome reservations are now being accepted (but a foursome is not required).

Non-refundable payments must be received by July 15th.

The best and easiest way to register and make payment is using a credit card online at www.nyscc.org. Otherwise, please use the registration form below and checks should be made be payable to NYSCC.

™ Nature’s Science.

Our Technology.

Your Beauty.

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For information about the golf outing, please contact Alejandro Gomez at agomez@summitresearchlabs.com.

23rd Annual NYSCC Golf Outing!

Payment enclosed ($180.00 per player) n Yes n No

Please complete this form and send it along with checks payable to NYSCC c/o:

Alejandro Gomez, SummitReheis, 40 Baldwin Road, Parsippany, NJ 07054 Name(s) ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ E-mail Address _________________________________________________________________________________________ Phone # _______________________________________________________________________________________________________ Company ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ GOLF: Name #1 _____________________________________________________________________________________ Name #1 _____________________________________________________________________________________________________ Name #2 _____________________________________________________________________________________ Name #2 _____________________________________________________________________________________________________ Name #3 _____________________________________________________________________________________ Name #3 _____________________________________________________________________________________________________ Name #4 _____________________________________________________________________________________ Name #4 _____________________________________________________________________________________________________ NOTE: A foursome is not required as we will combine groups if needed.

Please be sure to indicate your e-mail address if you would like to receive confirmation of your registration.

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Cosmetic Claim Substantiation Workshop – Science, Marketing, and Regulations September 6, 2016 Chart House Weehawken, NJ

Symposium Chair: Nava Dayan

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anufacturers of raw materials and finished cosmetic products conduct topical human exposure studies with the aim of drawing consumers through appealing claims. Market competition often drives aggressive campaigns that may be confusing and misleading, compounded by studies which may be poorly designed and executed, and scientific data which could be incorrectly interpreted.

In recent years, cosmetics manufacturers have come under increased scrutiny from the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) and Federal Trade Commission (FTC) for advertising claims. The advertising industry’s self-regulatory forum, the National Advertising Division (NAD), further examines truth and accuracy of national advertising claims. With the skin care industry striving to produce safer products, it should also focus its scientific resources towards better testing regimens demonstrating a product’s efficacy, which can support advertising claims. Establishing common criteria to support advertising claims is challenging given that claims are driven by the testing on an individual product. This workshop brings together experts from the industry and regulatory world to provide guidance on sound scientific practices and demonstrate how to ensure advertising claims match the underlying science.

Program Agenda 9:30 – 10:30 a.m.

Introduction—Why Claim?

Nava Dayan

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hy do cosmetic products carry claims? What is the difference between purpose of use and marketing claims? Can science be translated to fair claims for the average consumer to understand?

Where are we heading with claims in the industry?

Biography

Nava Dayan, Ph.D. has twenty-six years of experience in the skin care segment, and has yielded more than 150 publication credits in numerous industry respected journals and books. She was awarded the In-Cosmetics Gold Award for innovation and was given commensurate recognition from the NYSCC and the CRS for excellence. Dr. Dayan is the owner of Dr. Nava Dayan LLC, a skin science and research consultancy serving the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and personal care industries (dermal and transdermal). Dr. Dayan advises on product feasibility in skin care as well as efficacy and toxicology. She also advises teams in planning, executing, and interpreting data of claims, formulations, delivery for improved efficacy, and attenuated toxicity. Sample areas of expertise include: drug-skin interaction, bio-markers (genomics and proteomics), skin/age related sensitivities, inflammatory skin disorders, innate immunity, and biota.

She can be contacted at nava.dayan@verizon.net.

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10:30 – 10:45 a.m. Break

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10:45 – 11:45 a.m.

Advertising Self-Regulation and Cosmetics Claim Substantiation Annie Ugurlayan

Premium Ingredients.

Custom Solutions.

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n this session, we will learn about the advertising self-regulatory forum and its approach to claim substantiation as it relates to cosmetics cases.

Biography

Annie Ugurlayan is a Senior Staff Attorney at the National Advertising Division of the Advertising Self-Regulatory Council. Since 2003, she has handled over 200 cases and has successfully argued appeals before the National Advertising Review Board. Annie is also a frequent lecturer at conferences nationwide and abroad, particularly those with a focus on cosmetics and personal care products. She is also a published author. Annie is actively involved in various bar associations, serves on the Board of Directors of the New York Women’s Bar Association Foundation and is a Fellow of the American Bar Foundation. She is fluent in French and Armenian and proficient in Romanian. Annie is a graduate of Hamilton College (B.A., magna cum laude – French and World Politics) and Hofstra University School of Law.

Deborah Bagnuolo 844 458 7111 lvlomas.com

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11:45 a.m. – 1:00 p.m.

Lunch

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1:00 – 2:00 p.m.

Clarifying Rules for Cosmetics Claims—FTC Advertising Law Basics Serena Viswanathan

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n this presentation, we will provide an overview of the Federal Trade Commission’s (FTC’s) laws against deceptive advertising, guidance on how to substantiate your advertising claims, and examples of recent cases the FTC has brought against cosmetics sellers.

Biography Serena Viswanathan is Assistant Director in the Federal Trade Commission’s Division of Advertising Practices, where she supervises enforcement actions against deceptive and unfair advertising practices. Since joining the Commission in 2000, she has investigated and litigated deceptive advertising cases on a broad range of products, including dietary supplements, cosmetics, devices, and foods.

She graduated from the University of California, Berkeley and received her law degree from Georgetown University Law Center.

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2:00 – 3:00 p.m.

Claim Substantiation: Best Practices for Avoiding Unwanted Attention from Government Regulators and Private Plaintiff Lawyers Ronie Schmelz

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uring this session you will learn what steps you can take to reduce the likelihood that your advertising practices will draw the attention of the National Advertising Division (NAD), Food and Drug Administration (FDA), and Federal Trade Commission (FTC). We will also discuss: best practices you can employ to strengthen your position should you find yourself the subject of a regulatory inquiry; how to avoid becoming the target of a consumer class action; and ways to successfully defend consumer class actions.

Biography Ronie Schmelz, Tucker Ellis LLP, represents clients in broad-based commercial litigation, with a particular emphasis on consumer class action defense. She also regularly counsels clients on: litigation-avoidance strategies and ensuring compliance with state and federal laws, including regulations enforced by the FDA, FTC, and other regulatory agencies; California Proposition 65; and advertising, labeling, and (Continued on page 6)

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sensiva® – multifunctional additives designed for your innovation euxyl® – optimum preservation according to your needs

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Cosmetic Claim Substantiation Workshop

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(Continued from page 5)

claim substantiation. Ronie has profound industry knowledge in the representation of domestic and international companies in the cosmetics, personal care, and consumer product industries.

Ronie is active in several trade and professional organizations serving the personal care product and insurance industries, and is regularly sought out to speak at industry conferences. She spent the first twentyfive years of her career practicing in the Los Angeles office of Sidley Austin LLP, where she represented clients in complex commercial litigation, consumer class actions, real estate, health care, reinsurance disputes, and governmental investigations.

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3:00 – 3:15 a.m.

Break

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3:15 – 4:15 p.m.

Ethics: What Connects Cosmetic Science and Product Claims Ken Richman

L Making Personal Personal Care Care Beautiful®

Specialty Silicones & Actives Skin Car Caree Hair Care Care Color Cosmetics

Biography ®

www.biosiltech.com

egal compliance, market trends, and pressure to maximize sales are just some of the factors influencing the claims used in packaging and marketing of cosmetics and personal care products. What about ethics? Is ethics another factor in addition to these? Is compliance with laws and industry standards enough to satisfy our ethical obligations? This session will present concepts and vocabulary for identifying and addressing ethical issues across domains, with special emphasis on product claims. Drawing on philosophical concepts from Aristotle, Kant, and others, we will discuss ways to integrate ethical discussion into everyday business decisions.

Kenneth A. Richman is Professor of Philosophy and Healthcare Ethics at MCPHS (formerly the Massachusetts College of Pharmacy and Health Sciences) in Boston.

He grew up in South Orange, New Jersey, and studied philosophy at Haverford College, the University of Oxford (UK), and Rutgers University. As a philosopher working in the field of bioethics, Ken regularly works with researchers and institutions to promote the responsible conduct of research in both academic and business contexts. His work as a consultant and speaker for the cosmetics and personal products industry has focused on identifying ethical liability in research practices, especially involving human research participants. More information about his work is available at www.richmanweb.com.

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4:15 – 5:00 p.m.

Panel Discussion Q&A Period

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Symposium Location: Chart House Lincoln Harbor, Pier D-T 1700 Harbor Boulevard, Weehawken, NJ Tel: (201) 348-6628 • www.chart-house.com

Like, Connect & Tweet About Us!

FACEBOOK: NEW YORK LINKED IN: NEW YORK SCC TWITTER: @NYSCC INSTAGRAM: NYSCCMAIN SOCIETY OF COSMETIC CHEMISTS These connections are possible by the NYSCC Social Media Committee

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International Conference on Thermal Analysis and Calorimetry (ICTAC) August 14-19, 2016 Walt Disney World Swan & Dolphin Hotel • Orlando, Florida

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he focus of this global conference is traditional thermal analysis, calorimetry, and rheology applications. A Personal Care session is included in ICTAC 2016. If you use thermal analytical techniques in your Personal Care research, please consider submitting an abstract for this session.

To submit an abstract, please go to the website for the North American Thermal Analysis Society (NATAS): www.natasinfo.org. Once there, go to the Conferences menu and select: ICTAC 2016. You will then select the link: Abstract & Manuscript Submission Portal. This will bring you to a page where you need to create a user profile for the primary author before submitting an abstract.

If you have any questions, please contact Denise Wade Rafferty: denise.rafferty@lubrizol.com.

Make note of it…

Send news of interest, guest editorials, and comments to Roger McMullen, Editor • E-mail: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu

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Society of Cosmetic Chemists 2016 Continuing Education Program Schedule

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he SCC is dedicated to providing educational opportunities that serve the needs of professionals in our industry. Our instructors are highly qualified industry experts. You will come away from these small, interactive courses having gained the knowledge needed to advance your professional development.

It’s only Bio.Logical. to contact us: (800) 223-7054 acme-hardesty.com

July 18 Phytochemistry 101 for Cosmetic Chemists • Jat Rana, Ph.D. July 25 Silicone Chemistry • Tony O’Lenick

August 29 Surfactants • Pat Aikens, Ph.D. To register or to learn more please visit www.scconline.org.

If you have questions please call (212) 668-1500 or email dscelso@scconline.org.

All courses will be at the SCC National Office in New York City unless otherwise detailed. *If four or more employees from the same company register, $25 can be deducted off each registration fee. **Customized Onsite Courses can also be arranged.

Please call Doreen Scelso at (212) 668-1500 for further information

Call for Papers

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he Cosmetiscope editorial committee invites all interested parties to submit feature technical articles for publication in the NYSCC monthly newsletter. Authors of feature articles are eligible to win the prestigous NYSCC Literature Award ($1,000) for the best front-page article published during the calendar year. Also, authors receive $200 reimbursement to attend a theatrical performance of their choice.

Writing an article for your peers is a very rewarding experience, both personally and professionally, and would reserve your place in NYSCC history. You may choose whatever topic you feel would be interesting to fellow colleagues in our industry. We also welcome any other types of commentaries or articles that may be published in the Career Corner, Technical Tidbit section, or as a Letter to the Editor.

Please send correspondence to: roger_mcmullen@fdu.edu.

JOURNAL OF COSMETIC SCIENCE The Official Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists CALL FOR MANUSCRIPTS

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he Society of Cosmetic Chemists is soliciting scientific manuscripts concerned with cosmetics or the sciences underlying cosmetics, as well as papers of interest to the cosmetic industry for publication in the Journal of Cosmetic Science, The Official Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists.

The JOURNAL will consider manuscripts for publication in the following categories, provided they are prepared in proper scientific style and adequately referenced: • Original articles • Review articles • Technical notes • General articles • Preliminary communications • Letters to the Editor SUBMISSION OF MANUSCRIPTS Manuscripts submitted for publication should be accompanied by a cover letter and sent via e-mail to dscelso@scconline.org. Additional information is available from the SCC National Office: www.scconline.org.

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NYSCC Rheology Symposium November 15th Cook Campus Student Center Rutgers University, New Brunswick, NJ

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n continuing with tradition, the NYSCC will be hosting its biannual Rheology Symposium this year. This is a great event that promises to provide a cornucopia of educational information bringing rheology and cosmetic science together. Attendee registration will begin this summer.

Tabletops and Posters This event will include tabletop exhibits and posters. The registration fee for a tabletop is $200, and the registration fee for a poster is $100. The registration fee includes one attendee. If you are interested in participating, please contact Julia Broglie at julia.broglie@covestro.com.

Daphne Benderly – 2016 Rheology Symposium Chair Joe Albanese – 2016 Rheology Symposium Chair Julia Broglie – 2016 Rheology Symposium Exhibitors Coordinator

Monthly Meeting Group Discount The NYSCC is offering a group discount of 15% to companies who send 5 or more employees to a monthly meeting. All five employees would need to be registered at the same time to receive the discount. Once purchased, registrations are non-refundable.

Employment Opportunities For complete ads please go to the NYSCC website: https://www.nyscc.org/employment-listings.html.

n Project Manager Englewood Lab, LLC, Englewood, NJ

n Senior Chemist II – Aerosols Zotos International, Darien, CT

n Sales Account Manager TRI-K Industries, Southeastern United States (Florida or Georgia preferred)

n Senior Chemist II – Personal Care/Hair Care Zotos International, Darien, CT

n Account Manager Naturex INC, Hackansack, NJ n Technical Account Manager SMA Collaboratives, Northeastern United States n Senior Chemist Oxygen Development, Palm Springs, FL n Sales Account Manager Sensient Technologies Corporation East Coast, United States

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n Application Development Scientist Momentive, Tarrytown, NY n Senior Regulatory Associate Presperse Corporation, Somerset, NJ

n R&D Formulation Chemist Sarkli-Repechage Ltd., Secaucus, NJ n Technical Service Specialist Acme-Hardesty, Blue Bell, PA

n Chemist III Sensient Technologies Corporation South Plainfield, NJ 2 2

n Application Lab Manager Gattefossé, Paramus, NJ

n Technical Sales Representative Schülke Inc., Northeastern United States

n Technical Director – Cosmetics NA Sensient Technologies Corporation South Plainfield, NJ

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n Care Chemical Sales Jarchem, Newark, NJ

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Upcoming 2016 NYSCC Events Calendar • For updated NYSCC information, visit us on the web at: www.nyscc.org • For National SCC information: www.scconline.org July 21 Golf Outing, Crystal Springs Resort, Hamburg, NJ September 6 Cosmetic Claim Substantiation Symposium, Chart House, Weehawken, NJ September 12 Culinary Event, Midtown Loft, New York, NY October 6 Personal Professional Development Symposium, Location TBD Oct. 30-Nov. 2 IFSCC Congress, Orlando, FL November 15 Rheology Symposium, Cook Campus Student Center, Rutgers University

29th IFSCC Congress 8 Keynotes 74 Podium Presenta Present ations ations Presentations Presentations 350 Poster Presenta Present ations ations

2-Day 2-Day Exhibition

today ay and join us as we go Register today The Soul & Science of Beauty. www.evonik.com/personal-care

BEYOND DREAMS INTO NEW FRONTIERS BEYOND Ima gine * Innovate Inno vate ate Inspire *NoImagine vember 2, 2016 • Orlando, Orlando, FL OCTOBER 30 - November Walt alt Disney World Dolphin Resort Walt

www.ifscc2016.com www .ifscc2016.com .ifscc2016. com 10

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