Suston Issue #1 2019 by norragency

Suston SUSTAINABLE OUTDOOR NEWS #1/ 2019

SAVE

OUR SNOW Skiers, riders and resorts ﬁghting for survival.

“BIO”

IS THE NEW ECO But what are the pros, cons and questions?

CLIMATE

FOR CHANGE The Tarfala Think Tank retreats to nature to ﬁnd new solutions.

DOWN AND ORGANIC COTTON

SINGLE USE POLYBAGS

PARTNER PRESENTATIONS

What you need to know.

Retailers and brands join forces.

Good brands share good stories.

Let’s change the way we make our clothes. Together.

We’ve done a lot of work to make 67% of our line Fair Trade Certified ™ sewn and 69% of our materials recycled. If the entire apparel industry did even as much as we’ve managed so far, we could collectively bring millions of workers out of poverty, and reduce emissions roughly equivalent to taking every car off the road in Scandinavia.*

FAIR TRADE To date, Patagonia has supported 49,200 workers, who represent 39% of our finished goods workforce. If we all did this, we could reach 9,500,000 workers.*

*This number represents 16% of total workers in the apparel industry.

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*Sweden, Norway, Finland and Denmark.

RECYCLE To date, Patagonia has removed 13,000 tons of CO2 equivalent. If we all did this, we could remove 114,000,000 tons of CO2 equivalent.*

*This number represents 9.5% of total CO2 equivalent emissions in the apparel industry. The calculation is based on extrapolating Patagoniaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s current fabric mix (75% polyester, 12% cotton, 5% nylon, 2% down, 1% wool, 1% hemp and 4% other fiber types).

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“BE INSPIRED TO GET ACTIVE”

PHOTO: ARTHUR POULIN

Initiated by the

The It’s Great Out There Coalition is together with the photography community Unsplash launching a collection of inspirational images that show what #itsgreatoutthere means to people around the world. unsplash.com/itsgreatoutthere

GERMAN SCHOOL CLASS CROSSES THE ALPS

3 QUESTIONS TO ANDREW Can you describe the It’s Great Out There Coalition in three sentences?

Our goal is to inspire generations of Europeans to embrace the outdoors. As an organization, we are an International on Proﬁt Association run b a volunteer board of e perienced industr directors. We work in partnership with European, national and regional authorities, all of the outdoor recreation industries, non proﬁt associations and last but not least directl with the public.

In what way is this important for the outdoor industry?

ITALIAN TEENAGERS BIKE ALONG THE DANUBE

o get ore people active outdoors is not onl good from a strategic perspective, but also as a wa to ta e responsibilit . he health benefits of being out in nature are scientific facts, and when so called lifest le diseases li e obesit are growing across Europe, we can a e a positive difference. he outdoor industr is nown to punch above our weight what we do will have an i pact in societ .

What strategies does the coalition work with to achieve its goals?

hrough our grants, we want to inspire oung peo ple to get active and access the outdoors for the ﬁrst ti e, particularl those who are based in the inner cities or live in other circumstances that make this di cult. o create and highlight events, also from our members, are other important tools. And spreading the essage through our own social edia channels as well as via political lobb ing on all levels. Andrew Denton General Secretary, It’s Great Out There Coalition itsgreatoutthere.com

THOUSANDS OF STUDENTS LEARN CANOEING IN ENGLAND

DUTCH FAMILIES DISCOVER “NEIGHBORHOOD CAMPING”

“Y

Gabriel Arthur, Editor-in-chief

14 News

The latest in Outdoor.

20 Renewed in the USA

The Renewal Workshop takes on apparel waste.

24 Two Sides Together PHOTO: KARIN ALFREDSSON

ou’re the only ones asking these questions,” was the response from the sales manager for Sweden’s largest printer eight years ago when I asked if their operations were run using renewable energy, and why they hadn’t performed any form of sustainability report. We stopped printing there, but the sales manager wasn’t very concerned as the other customers didn’t seem to prioritize the issue. Today, our company partners with much more ambitious suppliers in several countries, and we continue to ask questions. A sustainability manager from Denmark’s largest printer, for example, has spent much time trying to find out if biodegradable plastic is better, despite methane gases emitted while composting. Why even wrap a magazine in plastic? Because if they’re mailed across EU borders, they must be wrapped in plastic. Why? This question has disappeared within the EU’s bureaucratic labyrinth. We all know that sustainability issues take both time and energy, using complicated Excel sheets and endless strings of emails. Yet the unique thing about the outdoor community is that we are continually reminded of why the job must be done. A hike in a nearby forest or a ski tour in the mountains can be enough to gain new motivation. This may also lead to completely new questions and answers that are harder to calculate in Excel – but just as important nonetheless.

PHOTO: FREDRIK SCHENHOLM

Natural Motivations

56 24

PHOTO: SEAN BLACK

PHOTO: STÉPHANE ROBIN

EDITORIAL & CONTENTS

Retailers and brands join forces to find sustainable solutions.

32 Plan B in the Alps

Ski resorts facing uncertainty in an increasingly warm climate.

38 Biobased

Suston investigates common and less known biobased materials.

50 Biodegradable

Nature’s solution or dead-end? Experts and brands weigh in.

56 The Secret Summit

Scientists and changemakers gather to tackle climate change.

63 Winter’s Warriors

Prominent skiers and riders fight for the future of their sport.

78 Program

Seminars at ISPO Munich.

Suston Editor-in-chief: Gabriel Arthur, gabriel.arthur@norragency.com Editor: Jonathan Frænkel-Eidse Art director: Susan Larsen & Melanie Haas Layout: Emil Jonsson Cover illustration: Graham Samuels Editorial advisory board: Arne Strate, Cira Riedel, Joel Svedlund

Partner cooperation and sales: Karen Hensel, karen.hensel@norragency.com Suston is published by NORR Agency. norragency.com, info@norragency.com +46 8 462 0707 Metargatan 11 116 66 Stockholm, Sweden sustonmagazine.com

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Pushing the Afghan Limits BY MATS NYMAN PHOTO VIBEKE SEFLAND

CLIMBING PEAKS over 7,000 meters (23,000 feet) high is a feat in itself. Doing so as an Afghan woman makes the challenge much greater. On August 10 last year, 24-year-old Hanifa Yousoufi stood at the summit of Afghanistan’s highest mountain, Noshaq (7,492 meters/24,580 feet above sea level). She is the first Afghan woman – and only the fourth Afghan ever – to climb the mountain. The ascent was made possible by the American organization Ascend – Leadership Through Athletics, which is working in Afghanistan to empower young women and create strong role models. For the women and girls who participate in Ascend’s program, education, social work, leadership training and climbing, among other things, are part of the curriculum. The organization was founded in 2015 by American Marina LeGree, who spent many years working with development issues in the area and got to see the challenges that young women in Afghanistan face first hand. Since the start in 2015, participants in the project have climbed several of Afghanistan’s highest peaks and even made first ascents. The day before the group headed for Noshaq, the Taliban carried out an attack in the area and they came close to aborting the entire expedition. When they finally set off, neither altitude sickness nor frozen toes could stop Hanifa Yousoufi, who made her final push to the top together with Norwegian climber Vibeke Sefland. “I did it for every girl. Afghanistan’s girls are strong and will continue to be strong,” declared Hanifa Yousoufi after the successful climb.

OBSERVATION

A Gift of Land BY GABRIEL ARTHUR PHOTO JUAN RAMÓN DÍAZ COLODRARO

WHILE BRAZILIAN NATURE is under threat of the new Bolsonaro regime, the continent’s other two giants – Argentina and Chile – are choosing a greener path. On December 5, the Argentine Congress ratified the creation of Iberá National Park in the wetlands of the Northeast. The new national park adds to the adjacent Iberá Provincial Park. At a combined approximately 7,100 km2 (1.8-million acres), Iberá Park is now the largest nature park in Argentina and one of the most biologically diverse areas of the country – including the jaguars that were absent in the region for more than half a century. Similarly, Chile signed a decree that will add 40,500 km2 (10 million acres) – approximately the size of Switzerland – of new national parklands to its protected areas. This green path has largely been facilitated by the UN Environment Patron of Protected Areas Kristine Tompkins, President of Tompkins Conservation. This former CEO of Patagonia Inc. and her late husband Douglas Tompkins (founder of the North Face and cofounder of Esprit clothing companies) left the business world in the early 1990s, moved to Patagonia and turned their entrepreneurial talents towards nature conservation. Over the years, they purchased over 85,000 km2 (2.1 million acres) of land in Chile and Argentina, and after becoming some of the largest private land owners in the world they started giving it away. The Ibéra National Park in Argentina was made possible by the donations managed by Kristine Tompkins, as well as the 40.500 km2 (1 million acres) laying the ground for the new Pumalín National Park and Patagonia National Park in Chile – billed as history’s largest donation of land from a private entity to a country.

OBSERVATION

Nature by Prescription BY JONATHAN FRAENKEL-EIDSE PHOTO SOPHIE DOVER/SHUTTERSTOCK

ANYBODY WHO REGULARLY spends time outdoors knows it: nature does body, mind and soul good. Research has also found overwhelming support for nature’s many mental and physical health benefits, some of which include reducing blood pressure, aggression and anxiety as well as improving concentration and general well-being. Incorporating this knowledge into the medical field, however, has been a long time coming. But now, inspired by the growing evidence that nature makes us healthier and happier and following a successful pilot program last year, the Shetland National Health Service (NHS) will officially role out a program that encourages doctors to offer “Nature Prescriptions” to patients who they deem candidates for this form of treatment. This means that Shetlanders might be pleasantly surprised to leave a doctor consultation not with a scribbled list of unpronounceable medications, but with an imaginative pamphlet – peppered with local colloquialisms – prescribing a seasonal activity regimen including “turning o’er a rock and seeing what’s there,” “Bagging Shetland’s 19 ‘Marilyns’” (hilltops) and “Going for a ‘hock’ in a tidepool.” Nature Prescriptions is a partnership program developed by the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSBS) Scotland and delivered by the National Health Service (NHS) Shetland, and has quickly acquired international attention. Many local doctors are also enthusiastic to the initiative, and in an RSBS press release Dr. Chloe Evans, GP at Scalloway Health Centre explains why: “The project provides a structured way for patients to access nature as part of a non-drug approach to health problems. The benefits to patients are that it is free, easily accessible, allows increased connection with surroundings which hopefully leads to improved physical and mental health for individuals.”

OBSERVATION

NEWS

The Man Who Stopped the Desert FOR HIS WORK in turning barren land in the Sahel into forest and demonstrating how farmers can regenerate their soil with innovative use of indigenous and local knowledge, this year’s Right Livelihood Award went to 73-year-old Yacouba Sawadogo of Burkina Faso. His work began in the 1980s while the region was in the midst of a deadly famine. Leaving the city for his home village, Sawadogo set out to experiment using abandoned, traditional Zaï techniques in order to cultivate otherwise barren land. Over time he succeeded. Word soon spread to other farmers in the area who would come to his bi-annual market/workshop to learn more, and before long, national farming organizations and NGOs began advocating his methods. “This project is for future generations,” explains Sawadogo upon receiving the award. “I don’t want to eat today and leave future generations with nothing to eat. The work I do is to create the seeds for wealth – not only for Burkina Faso but for many other countries.” The Right Livelihood Award began in 1980 as a response to the Nobel prize’s overly narrow categories. It is awarded annually in Stockholm to four recipients “to honor and support courageous people and organisations that have found practical solutions to the root causes of global problems.” 14 – suston

GREENING KENYA

Kenya and the UN have joined forces to launch the “Greening Kenya Campaign,” with the goal of increasing forest cover from 7% to 10% in the country by 2022. To do so, they plan on placing a moratorium on logging in public forests and planting 1.8 billion trees in schools, farmlands and drylands.

NEW URBAN WILDERNESS HUT THE NORWEGIAN TREKKING Association (DNT) is Norway’s largest outdoor organization and is responsible for maintaining 30,000 km of marked trails and 550 isolated wilderness cabins. However, in celebration of its 150th anniversary DNT decided to treat itself to its own birthday present – Fuglemyr Hut – and it is already breaking visitor records. Why? Perhaps its world-class architecture or unmatched vistas overlooking the capital and Oslo Fjord beyond? These may help, but the fact is that this wilderness cabin is anything but remote: located on a hilltop above Oslo, it’s easily reached by subway and a 2 km walk through the woods.

SECOND-HAND SURGES

This Christmas in Sweden, a dip in apparel sales in stores and online corresponded with increased secondhand sales. Why? Maybe because each December, a Swedish trade organization announces the “Christmas Present of the Year” based on what’s trending – in 2016 it was VR-headsets, 2017 electric bikes. 2018’s was second-hand clothing.

PHOTO: DINO REICHMUTH

PHOTO: MARK DODD

16-year old, internationally renowned Swedish climate activist Greta Thunberg. Interviewed by The New Yorker.

PHOTO: JONATHAN FRAENKEL-EIDSE

“We need to change the system, as if we were in crisis, as if there were a war going on.”

Sustainability Roadtrip OIA ANNOUNCES that in 2019 it will again hit the roads in the U.S. to host its expanded Sustainability Boot Camp. These intensive, one-day sessions are geared to help small to mid-sized brands develop a solid sustainability strategy e en if they lac dedicated staff or expertise. Attendees will learn how global sustainability challenges impact their businesses, how to strategize to get the most bang for their buck, how to make a plan and co unicate their efforts, and how to establish a support system. Check in on the OIA website to see if they will be passing through your town.

NEWS

UAE’s Eco-Tourism’s Biodomes FACED WITH INCREASING nature tourism, the Biodomes Project in United Arab Emirates aims to prevent harm to these natural areas using minimal impact designed biodomes powered with 100% renewable energy and including an organic restaurant and on-site waste and waste-water recycling systems. The site is located at the base of the popular Al Hajar Mountains and, once built, these structures are intended to serve as wildlife conservation and adventure-based retreat centers.

WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD?

If 2017-2018 were the years of Public Lands, what will be the focus in 2019? Sourcing ournal identiﬁes Climate Change, Regenerative Agriculture, Closed Loop and Ditching Virgin Plastic as at least four of the most likely contenders.

TAR SANDS PIPELINES AT ANY COST?

FIGHTING FOR THE LAST 10% GERMAN ACTIVISTS FIGHTing to protect the last remaining patch of Hambach forest from being turned into an open-pit coal mine by the German energy giant RWE, have been pulled out of their treetop occupation and had their treehouses destroyed. Germany is currently the largest producer of brown coal – which produces more emissions than hard coal – and is set to fail to meet its greenhouse gas emissions reduction target of 40% by 2020. Not so easily deterred, the activists have since returned to the forest and begun rebuilding their treehouses. “They can take us away from the tree house but they can’t evict a movement, they can’t evict the ideas we are fighting for, acti ist trobo said in org

In Western Canada, the Trudeau government is meeting peaceful resistance with a heavy hand, using police raids on indigenous protest camps in an attempt to push multiple oil and gas pipeline projects through indigenous lands never signed away by treaty or seized in war.

OUR THREE PRE-COMPETITIVE PILLARS

oday, companies in many industries boast CSR and sustainability departments reflecting the wider social and political climate, and the increasing economic realities. This is, of course, also the case for outdoor businesses. But I think that for our sector, there have long been deeper roots and an even broader perspective. When I look at the outdoor sector, I see an industry that is fundamentally entwined with nature. Many of the biggest outdoor firms in the world were founded by passionate outdoor enthusiasts. And still today, thousands of people are drawn to work in our sector by their deep love of the great outdoors. We know that without nature, there would simply be no outdoor industry. But our efforts shouldn’t stop there. Conservation of nature is just one pillar of the European Outdoor Group’s (EOG) work, with the others being Doing business right and Getting Europe active outdoors. These are all pre-competitive issues that should be addressed before the first product is designed. They’re not just marketing tools or the focus of a single business, but the foundation of the whole outdoor industry itself! Our industry increasingly recognizes that the best approach to such overarching topics is to address the challenges together. For example, the European Outdoor Conservation Association (EOCA) and the It’s Great Out There Coalition are doing a lot of great work on behalf of our sector. Both organizations were created by the EOG, and we continue to support their projects. That’s what the EOG stands for and why it exists – as a neutral hub, founded by and working for the entire outdoor sector. I believe that finding the right approach to sustainability, conservation and activation will provide the biggest point of differentiation between the core outdoor industry and those other sectors who are striving to profit from the megatrend that is “outdoor.” Arne Strate, EOG General Secretary suston – 15

PHOTO: PANTHERA/WILDLIFE CONSERVATION SOCIETY

NEWS

PLASTIC BAG BAN

This year, New Zealand and South Korea will implement a ban on single-use plastic bags, giving their retailers several months to phase them out. They join a growing list of over 50 countries with similar bans in place, including Bangladesh, China, France and South Africa.

“MAKE AMERICA’S PARKS OPEN AGAIN”

This was the headline of a fullpage ad placed in the Washington Post, signed by Columbia’s CEO Tim Boyle. A response to the record-breaking federal government shutdown in the U.S., the ad then continues: “Walls shouldn’t block access to parks, and federal workers shouldn’t be left in the cold. Work together to open our parks.”

Central America’s Unsung Nature Heroes WITH A JOB DESCRIPTION that includes life-threatening encounters with poachers, lots of travel away from family and virtually no job security, a group of conservation organizations issued a survey to find just how Central America’s rangers are faring under such harsh circumstances. The results? The majority of the survey respondents reporting job satisfaction, and three-quarters stated they’d even like to see their children taking up the trade. Thus, it appears they’re doing surprisingly well, and when asked what keeps them motivated in spite of the challenges, most responded it was the excitement and their love for nature. “Central America’s rangers risk their lives every day to protect nature,” said Jeremy Radachowsky, Mesoamerica and Caribbean program director for the Wildlife Conservation Society, which partici-

THAT’S HOW MANY companies and organizations from the textile industry signed the United Nation’s “Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action,” on December 10, 2018. Here, industry actors agreed to collectively address the climate impact of the fashion sector across its entire value chain. Several outdoor brands are among the signatories, including Sympatex, Arc’Teryx and Mammut. 16 – suston

pated in the survey, and continues: “They work in the midst of some of society’s most complex issues including drug, weapons, timber, and wildlife trafficking, corruption, poverty and violence. These leaders and heroes deserve the institutional backing and the physical and legal protections to do their work for humanity.” The survey is part of a broader, global initiative to improve the work environment of rangers, and included responses from 331 rangers in seven countries – Belize, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua, and Panama. While Central America is one of the most biodiverse regions on the planet, it is disappearing rapidly due to increased habitat loss and poaching, placing Rangers on the frontlines of protecting our natural heritage.

THAT’S THE PERCENTAGE of the world’s landmass still wilderness, excluding Antarctica, according to a recent report published in Nature. Pointing out the importance of wildernesses in carbon capture, biodiversity and to indigenous peoples, the authors call on the fi e ega wilderness” nations Russia, Canada, Australia, United States and Brazil to secure the last of the wild.

NEWS

OUR PLEDGE: C L I M AT E P O S I T I V E 2 0 2 0 What’s left of CO2 footprint after having minimized our resource use, ICEBUG will offset and overcompensate by 10%. We include all our activities in this: Products, logistics, operations, travel. The climate cost will be integrated into our core business model. We’re willing to invest all of the profit into this change to become sustainable. ( After all, that’s a small price for doing all we can to stay within a safe temperature for the planet.) Join us! www.icebug.com/2020

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NEWS

Sustainability Wins at Innovation Awards At Outdoor Retailer Winter Market's first Innovation Awards ceremony, seven of the winners and finalists put the focus squarely on advancements in sustainability. BY KASSONDRA CLOOS

Costa Untangled Collection Baffin Sunglasses

FISHING NETS ARE among the most dangerous and prolific forms of plastic pollution in the ocean. In an attempt to mitigate the problem, frames in Costa’s Untangled line of sunglasses are ade entirely fro recycled fishing nets

United By Blue Bison Puffer Jacket

Crescent Moon EVA Foam Snowshoes

UNITED BY BLUE’S bison wool insulated ison uffer ac et ta es what has traditionally been trash bison wool fibers as a byproduct of the food industry and turns it into an effecti e insulation he ac et is filled with , which is half bison wool and a quarter each recycled polyester and low-melt poly. The waterproof shell is also made of part recycled poly.

UNLIKE OTHER SNOWSHOES that use a hinged area to e with the foot, Crescent Moon’s EVA Foam Snowshoes rely on a rocker-shaped platform to mimic a more natural gait. They’re made entirely of EVA foam and can be recycled at the end of their life through athletic shoe recycling programs.

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NEWS

GoLite ReGreen Windshell

BY USING RECYCLED green plastic bottles of the , to be e act , o ite clai s its e reen indshell is green at literally e ery stage of the process ecause they re ore difficult to dye, recycling green plastic bottles is often less feasible and they often end up in landfills y using the tinted bottles and declining to dye the fabric, o ite eeps typically undesirable plastic out of landfills as well as reduces water consu ption by up to percent

Allbirds SweetFoam

ALLBIRDS CLAIMS its new SweetFoam, derived from sugar cane, is the world s first carbon negati e foa nstead of using petroleum, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s made with sugar cane sourced from ra il where it naturally grows easily, and it s processed in fa cilities run on renewable energy llbirds will a e the weet oa for ula open source in hopes that other shoe anufac turers around the world will adopt the greener technology

SOLE Jasper Wool Chukka

THE USE OF a carbon negati e, recycled cor idsole in the asper ool hu a got it onto the list of finalists ollowing years of de elop ent, their e or idsole pro ides all the perfor ance characteristics of foa s with ust a fraction of the en iron ental i pact

PrimaLoft Bio Insulation

SYNTHETIC INSULATION IS typically made from recycled or irgin , both of which ta the en iron ent and can release plastic icrofibers into water ways when washing ri a oft s new io insulation and fabric offer a uni ue solution t s ade fro percent recycled plastic fro bottles that is also ostly biodegradable t sounds i possible ut ri a oft has figured out a way to a e tiny plastic fibers ore desirable to icroorganis s, allowing it to degrade in arine and landfill en iron ents suston â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 19

REPAIR

RENEWED IN THE USA newal Workshop Re e Th m fro m tea e th d an tt sse Ba Nicole n of clothing aims to divert nearly half a million to from landfills by 2025. BY KASSONDRA CLOOS

20 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; suston

PHOTO: THE RENEWAL WORKSHOP

ach year, untold tons of imperfect but fixable apparel is sent to landfills across the United States, deemed unsellable for minor issues like broken zippers or missing buttons. It’s often easier to toss these goods rather than repair and sell them, coming at both a financial and environmental cost. The Renewal Workshop, a circular solutions company based in Oregon, has lofty goals to change this mindset. By 2025, the company aims to have diverted 450,000 kg (1 million pounds) of waste from landfills through repairing and reselling these pieces of clothing. The end goal is a system in which brands have little to no landfill waste in the manufacturing process, ultimately making for a more sustainable industry. Along the way, they also want to encourage people to be more responsible in how they shop, return and dispose of apparel. “We’re trying to build a circular movement,” says co-founder Nicole Bassett, who started the company together with Jeff Denby in 2016. Currently, The Renewal Workshop has 22 brand partners including Icebreaker, Prana, and The North Face, and has diverted roughly 36,000 kg (80,000 pounds) of apparel from landfills since its founding. To get to 1 million pounds within the next six years, Bassett says one key is to bring in more brand partners.

A novel business model

Here’s how it works: Apparel brands end up with an imperfect, damaged or soiled product somewhere along the way, or it’s returned and can’t be resold. Previously, companies would donate oversees or throw these items away. Now, they pay The Renewal Workshop a fee to take the clothes, which is roughly comparable with the cost of sending these products to the landfill. The Renewal Workshop then clean and repair the items and sell them online and in select stores. Bassett additionally points out that brands also have the opportunity to share in the profits from renewed item sales, or to own the sales channel outright, meaning they will repair the goods and the original brand will recoup the profits from selling the items. The fast fashion industry has fostered a culture that finds it easier—and cheaper—to throw away and replace clothing many years before its time has come. Bassett is optimistic that the apparel industry and current DIY trends will help reverse these bad habits. “It’s cheaper for me to go get a new shirt than it is to getting around to find a needle and thread to sew a button back on,” says Bassett. “We want to teach people how to see value in their clothing rather than junk it.”

The “Renewal System” strives to bridge gaps, connect systems and make current linear manufacturing practices circular.

renewalworkshop.com

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WATER-EFFICIENT INNOVATION

RE-INVENTING THE INDUSTRY The history of the leather tanning goes back 10,000 years — and the process was always thought to be impossible without the use of large amounts of water. ECCO Leather's new DriTan™ technology breaks the paradigm and is now set to revolutionise the entire leather industry.

THE CHALLENGE

Leather Applied Research team

water annually — enough water

Developing a more

changed the tanning process.

to keep 9,000 people hydrated for

sustainable tanning process

THE SOLUTION

one year. The efficient process also

Estimated worldwide water con-

The first solid step towards

saves 600 tons of sludge that would

sumption in leather making is 400

water-free leather manufacturing

otherwise go into landfills per year.

billion litres a year, and we are in

DriTan™ by ECCO Leather is a step

THE APPLICATION

the perfect position to take the first

in the tanning process and uses

Unveiling ECCO's DriTan™

step in inventing a more sustainable

the moisture already present in

game-changing technology

tanning process. Our starting point

the hides. The resulting leather is

In celebration of the sustainable

was this very fundamental question:

indistinguishable from traditionally

breakthrough in tanning, ECCO

how can we tan without water in a

tanned leather in terms of quality,

Outdoor is launching a series of

world of increasing water scarcity,

characteristics, stability and lead

three iconic products. The ECCO

and is it even possible?

time. Besides saving huge amounts

EXOSTRIKE, OMNIVENT and BIOM C

WHAT WE DID

of water, the technology also

will all see a version that capitalizes

Applied Research

considerably reduces the amount

on this new tanning process and

In a unique process developed by

of chemicals used and lowers

build on ECCO’s reputation for

our in-house Applied Research lab,

wastewater production.

pushing the boundaries within global innovation. All three products will

proprietary tanning agents preserve the leather's natural collagens with-

THE RESULT

be unveiled at ISPO in Munich and

out the use of added water. After

DriTan™ saves 20 litres of water per

distribution will be via select key

five years of research the ECCO

hide, equal to 25 million litres of

partners in the latter part of 2019.

E C C O

D R I T A N ™

—

R E - I N V E N T I N G

T H E

I N D U S T R Y

20 litres of water per hide, equal to 25 million litres of water saved annually — enough water to keep 9,000 people hydrated for one year.

TWO SIDES TOGETHER Can retailers and brands put competition aside and instead focus on finding sustainable solutions? The results of the pan-European “#RMB Single Use Plastics” project’s first year seem to prove they can. BY GABRIEL ARTHUR PHOTO KARIN ALFREDSSON

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RETAIL

n November 2017, representatives from four outdoor companies met up with Anny Cardinahl and Pamela Ravasio from European Outdoor Group (EOG) at Patagonia’s office in Amsterdam. The working title for the meeting was “#RMB – Retail meets Brand” and the main topic on the agenda was sustainability. “At that point, we only knew that we wanted to bring retailers and brands closer together and collaborate more. We wanted to launch a project series that the EOG would facilitate, with retailers and brands as the driving force. As a kick-off, we invited two retailers and two brands to discuss pre-competitive market challenges in a very informal meeting,” Anny Cardinahl recalls. One idea was also to try working on a pan-European level. On the brand side of the table were Ryan Gellert, GM EMEA from Patagonia’s European headquarters and Peter Ottervanger, GM Europe of Icebreaker. On the retailer side were Tim Wahnel, CEO of Outdoor Profis and Daniel Peters, E-commerce Manager from A.S. Adventure Group. Outdoor Profis is a buying group including around 160 independent outdoor specialists in Germany and Luxembourg, with the head office in Limburg between Frankfurt and Cologne. “We also run a shop ourselves, in Limburg. So both from our own experience, and from our members, we know that sustainability is a big and very complex topic. There are so many certificates, labels, projects etc., so that the individual store owner or manager can easily get lost,” says Tim Wahnel, and continues: “Instead of everyone fighting their own battles, we saw this collaboration as an opportunity to join forces and find solutions for all.” The omnichannel and multibrand retailer A.S. Adventure Group has over 265 stores in the Benelux-countries, France and the UK, including chains such as A.S. Adventure, Cotswold Outdoor, Bever, McTrek and more. With a background in retail, Anny Cardinahl had expected that she would need both diplomacy and persuasion to get the two sides to start collaborating. As she explains: “I have seen so much ping-pong between retailers and brands over the years, where one part thinks the other should take action and vice versa. A lot of valuable ideas and content never reaches the customers at the point of sale.” Yet this time, Anny Cardinahl was happily surprised – “I was overwhelmed by the positive energy from the very first minute” – and following the meeting in Amsterdam the participants agreed on two things: they all wanted to go ahead with the Retail meets Brands-project and they wanted to get more companies on board.

Polybags are everywhere

PERRY LAUKENS EMEA Marketing Director, KEEN Footwear

MICHAELA ZEUSS O ce anager, Icebreaker’s European HQ

TIM WAHNEL

CEO, Outdoor Proﬁs

After ISPO Munich in January 2018, the group had grown with retailers like Transa and Bergfreunde. de and brands like Keen and Marmot. The next step was then to pin down what they wanted to collaborate on, which turned out to be rather easy. Steven De Beul, buying manager at A.S Adventure in Belgium, is today the company’s representative for the project. “As retailers, we are meeting the end-consumers on a daily basis. One problem that is getting attention is the huge amount of single use plastics in our daily lives,” explains Steven De Beul and continues: “On the retail side, we have other insights than the brands. We receive all these polybags and have to deal with them. It is not a problem that a single store can solve – but if we could address these problems on an industry level, we would have much bigger possibilities.” Brands too see the potential in collaboration on this issue. Michaela Zeuss, office manager at Icebreaker’s European headquarter and part of the steering group, agrees that single use plastics is the obvious first step. “Single use plastics as our first project is important because we wanted a concept that is relevant, accessible and understandable for businesses and consumers alike. The topic of plastics is everywhere – in TV documentaries, on the EU legislation level, etc. – and nature is our playing field. We definitely felt that we as a group wanted to take a leadership position around this.” Keen Footwear, represented by Perry Laukens, the brand’s EMEA Marketing Director, was similarly enthusiastic to the choice of topic. “As a footwear brand, we don’t use polybags in the same way as the apparel brands, since we have shoe boxes. But we still want to take part in finding solutions. At first, a project like this might sound easy. But it’s not like there are hundreds of solutions just waiting for us,” says Perry Laukens.

A roadmap for 2019

STEVEN DE BEUL Buying Manager, A.S. Adventure

Today, the #RMB-group consists of nearly twenty companies, in collaboration with the European Outdoor Group (EOG). They try to meet in person every three months, and via conference calls on a monthly basis. The group has been divided into four focus teams; looking at economical, ecological, legal and communication aspects. An international survey has been undertaken to understand what quantities of single use plastics are used in the European outdoor market today. A project manager, Scott Nelson, has also been recruited to manage the project during 2019 and is working together with the steering group on developing a roadmap to “significantly reduce single use plastics in the value chain,” as stated in suston – 25

Products need to be protected during transport from company to consumer. For years, polybags have been used to meet this need, but at a cost.

the latest white paper from the EOG. “This will involve a lot of research and looking at what other industries are doing to tackle problems of this size. We want to bring in as many options as possible into the discussion. The goal is definitely a challenge – but we are optimistic that we will find meaningful solutions that can push an entire industry in a positive direction,” explains Scott Nelson. Another challenge is the size of the project, which went from four companies and the EOG at the start to around twenty today. With the hope of many more joining during 2019, there is always the potential that different perspectives and agendas will collide. “The size can be a pitfall, also when we are many nationalities with different situations in each country. But on the other hand, we have more things that unite us. One of the characteristics of the outdoor industry is that we are more conscious of the nature around us. I think we can take a lead together,” says Steven De Beul. Tim Wahnel agrees, and talks about “coopetion” – cooperation and competition hand in hand. “I have been surprised by how easy we have managed to move forward so far, and also be transparent within the group.” Compared to the sports and fashion industries, the outdoor industry is still a small player. But Perry Laukens believes that in a project like this, 26 – suston

ANNY CARDINAHL European Outdoor Group, #RMB Project Initiator

outdoor’s size could be an advantage: “I have a sporting goods background, and I am not sure it would be possible there. We in the outdoor industry, however, are good at finding common ground.” As many have pointed out before, sustainability in general is an arena where it can be easier to find such common ground between competitors. The problems are too big – and too expensive – to tackle without collaborations and, for the outdoor industry, protecting the environment is or at least should be a paramount concern. “Size matters. If we can join forces and move the industry, from the supply chain to the end consumer, we can have a real impact. And I think working together for the greater good brings out the human side in people,” says Michaela Zeuss.

#RMB SINGLE-USE PLASTICS SCOTT NELSON

European Outdoor Group, #RMB Project Manager

Ready to join or want more info? Contact Scott Nelson, Project Manager: scott.nelson@europeanoutdoorgroup.com At ISPO Munich, the project will be presented at an event in the CSR Hub & Sustainability Kiosk, Hall A4. There, you can also meet the steering group: Tuesday, February 5, 4:00 pm – 5:00 pm.

PHOTO: ANNA TORST SAATVEDT

SPONSORED CONTENT PARTNER: PRIMALOFT

A Better Answer PrimaLoft® sets sustainability forward by introducing PrimaLoft® Bio™ Insulation and PrimaLoft® Bio™ Performance Fabric, each made from the first-ever 100% recycled, biodegradable* synthetic fiber.

t’s a breakthrough in textile sustainability. The advanced material technology experts at US-based PrimaLoft® are the first to provide a proper solution for the end of a garment’s life. The recently launched PrimaLoft® Bio™ products begin as 100% post-consumer recycled materials and, when they reach the end of their usable life cycle, return to nature – the first technology of its kind. The basis is a technically advanced fiber technology, which enhances the fiber to be more attractive to naturally-occurring microbes. This allows for highly accelerated biodegradation* under certain environmental conditions, like in a landfill or in ocean water. In the end, the biodegradation process leaves behind natural elements: water, methane, carbon dioxide and biomass.

No change in performance

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4 years of development

Nobody can change the world in one day. The idea for this textile breakthrough

was first introduced in 2014. But it took the PrimaLoft® team of scientists and engineers two years of research to crack the code of biodegradation, another two years to develop the process and more than a year of testing with an independent lab to make sure that the performance of the fibers remain on the same high level. In accelerated test conditions simulating a landfill environment (ASTM D5511) and a maritime environment (ASTM D6691), PrimaLoft® Bio™ fibers have reached near complete biodegradation* in a little over one year – a highly accelerated rate as compared to the negligible degradation observed in standard polyester under the same conditions. PrimaLoft® has enhanced the fibers to be more attractive to the naturallyoccurring microbes found in these environments. The microbes eat away at the fibers at a faster rate, returning the insulation to nature.

“Recycling is a good start, but…”

Mike Joyce, president and CEO of PrimaLoft®, about the intention of PrimaLoft Bio™ : “Recycling is a good start, but we are intent on providing an even better answer to the environmental issues facing our industry. As we have been making sustainable products since 2007, PrimaLoft® Bio™ speaks to the heart and soul of who we are.” As a result, PrimaLoft® Bio™ helps to solve the growing problem of microplastics littering the ocean, a significant issue

for the textile and other industries. It is estimated that half a million tons of plastic microfibers shed during the washing of plastic-based textiles such as polyester, nylon, or acrylic end up in the ocean every year, according to research from The Ellen Macarthur Foundation.

Relentlessly Responsible

PrimaLoft® Bio™ expands upon PrimaLoft®’s commitment to being Relentlessly Responsible, providing sustainable solutions throughout its business in order to lessen its impact on the earth. To date, PrimaLoft® has saved more than 90 million plastic bottles from landfills and transformed them into premium insulation technologies. By 2020, 90% of PrimaLoft® insulation products will have at least 50% post-consumer recycled content, without compromising performance. Earlier in 2018, PrimaLoft® introduced its first insulations with 100% post-consumer recycled material. Moving forward, PrimaLoft® is working diligently and investing to reduce its footprint through the supply chain with an emphasis on finding solutions for reducing energy, carbon emission reduction, and many more. *84.9% biodegradation in 457 days under ASTM D5511 conditions; 56.1% biodegradation in 441 days under ASTM D6691 conditions.

ISPO Munich: Hall A2/304 OR Snow Show: 56004/UL primaloft.com/primaloftbio suston – 55

ENVIRONMENT

THE SECRET

SUMMIT BY JONATHAN FRAENKEL-EIDSE PHOTO FREDRIK SCHENHOLM

WORKING TITLE: TARFALA THINK TANK. ON THE INVITATION LIST: BUSINESS LEADERS, RESEARCHERS AND VIPS WHO SHARE A PASSION FOR GLOBAL ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES AND ALPINE ADVENTURE. TRAVEL ROUTE: SLEEPER TRAIN, BUS AND DOGSLED TO TARFALA RESEARCH STATION IN ARCTIC SWEDEN. OBJECTIVE: IDENTIFY CLIMATE SOLUTIONS. 56 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; suston

ENVIRONMENT

e still pass through shadows, but the peaks high above glow a fiery red-yellow in the morning sun. Only the soft whisper of skis sliding up the snow-clad glacier can be heard, with the bulk of Kebnekaise massif – Sweden’s highest mountain – leaning in over us from all sides. The silence is suddenly ripped asunder by the pounding roar of an avalanche crashing down a nearby mountain side. The snow and ice at the mountain tops must be getting warmer. Then again, another one releases, this time just a few hundred meters away. Our mountain guide, Carl Lundberg, takes a brief look and registers the details of each new slide without missing a step in his tempered pace – our path presumably out of harms way. Of course, safety can never be one hundred percent guaranteed in the mountains. Yet by using forecasts, observations, acquired knowledge and by consistently erring on the side of caution, a good mountain guide can navigate and mitigate most risks. A reckless guide, on the other hand, is in the best case unemployed and in the worst at the bottom of a crevasse. Convinced Carl belongs to the “good guide” category, I resolve to trust his judgement and enjoy the powerful spectacle each avalanche presents. The best untold story in town In the same way, climate scientists are not allknowing, and their margins of error are often large. Yet despite their shortcomings, they are perhaps the best navigators of the unpredictable risks we may soon face. Following an impeccable day in spring skiing conditions, a group of 25 exhausted yet elated delegates gather togetherin the Tarfala Research Station. The station is run by Stockholm University and consists of a dozen aging, rust-colored cabins clustered at the foot of Storglaciären, literally translated as “The Big Glacier.” Research has been going on here since 1946, giving Storglaciären the reputation of holding the world’s longest continuous glacial mass-balance record. Thus, the station attracts many researchers and experts in the field, including one of the most reputable contemporary climate researchers, Swedish professor Johan Rockström. One day he is being interviewed in the New York Times, the next he is speaking at a UN conference. Today, he’s welcoming us to his semitop-secret event in the middle of nowhere. “Us scientists have the best untold story in town,” he begins after everyone is seated. “On the one hand, humanity is utterly destroying the world. But then on the other, the fix is totally doable.” An admitted pragmatist, Johan Rockström has a knack for cutting through utopic optimism and suston – 57

ENVIRONMENT

”Once, we were a small world living on a big planet. Today, we see we have become a large world on a small planet.” – Johan Rockström.

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defeatist status quo-ism. He believes that when it comes to climate change, a wild dash for some poorly defined finish line will not achieve the results we want. But alternatively, doing nothing will all but guarantee that we fail. That’s why he’s pushing for a paced effort towards science-based targets. He continues to summarize our current climate situation, explaining that over the last ten thousand years, during the epoch known as the Holocene, temperatures have remained remarkably stable and human civilization has flourished. The last time Earth’s climate left Holocene conditions 70,000 years ago, the global human population was nearly eradicated. “Many global changes resulting from human behavior now suggest we are entering a new epoch referred to as the Anthropocene. If we don’t change course in time, we risk tipping into a climate state where there is no guarantee a civilization of 9 billion can survive.” In other words, if the Holocene has been our Garden of Eden, our current trajectory into the Anthropocene may soon become our hell. Humanity’s best bet, according to Johan Rockström, is therefore to find and accelerate solutions that enable us to remain in Holocene conditions. How? That’s the issue Tarfala Think Tank will wrestle with over the next five days, exploring a variety of approaches championed by this group of passionate individuals.

An idea born on foreign slopes The idea came to light in Chamonix during a guided ski tour, where Johan Rockström and Pia-Maria Lodhammar discovered that they shared a passion for both skiing and climate issues. Pia-Maria Lodhammar, M.D., works in Tromso in Northern Norway, with a special interest in prehospital care in alpine winter environments. “We spoke a lot about how something happens with people in the alpine,” recalls Pia-Maria Lodhammar, “Meetings and conversations ensued. It went quickly from an idea into action, and in the winter of 2017, we gathered here for the first time. The response was incredible, and this year there’s even more of us – 25 fantastic people!” The guest list had been carefully put together by Rockström himself. Mountain-lover and CEO Eva Karlsson from Houdini Sportswear, one of Europe’s outdoor brand leaders in sustainability, is one. Another is Björn Ferry, Swedish Olympic biathlon gold medalist turned national TV celebrity, starring in a program where he and his family strive to reduce their carbon footprint at a rate consistent with the Paris Agreement. Keith Tuffley is a polar expeditioner in his spare time and is otherwise founder of NEUW Ventures, an entrepreneurial impact investing company that creates and finances businesses that aim to reduce the human ecological footprint. And so the guest list continues. Each and every

ENVIRONMENT

individual having an incredible CV with regards to both their career and their outdoor experience. Yet I quickly find that out here, none of that seems to matter. In the great equalizing force of the alpine, it’s the person who comes out, turning resumés into nothing more than good fire-starters. Each evening we gather, joints aching after a long day skiing, and listen to a prepared presentation from a few of the guests. Two presenters with very different backgrounds in particular keep my pen tearing through the pages of my notebook: Nigel Topping and Pella Thiel. Leveraging change Nigel Topping is CEO of We Mean Business Coalition, and instead of a PowerPoint presentation, he invites us to join him in the common area for some impromptu storytelling. With first-hand accounts of the events and eccentric personalities behind the Paris Agreement negotiations – to which he had front row seats – he shares the gripping tale of how last-minute pressure from the business world helped save the 30-page-long agreement from the brink of collapse caused by just one single word, “shall.” Sitting there comfortably in his thermal underwear and with a sense of humor and wit that seems innate to the British, it’s easy to forget he leads a coalition of massively influential businesses that are committed to keeping the world economy

on track to avoid dangerous climate change. Pella Thiel’s natural candor becomes clear soon after meeting her: She doesn’t nod politely if she doesn’t agree and doesn’t laugh if it’s not funny. But when she does agree it’s sincere and when she laughs it comes from the heart. She is co-founder of Rights of Nature Sweden, part of a global grassroots movement that seeks to fundamentally alter humanity’s relationship to nature by applying pressure on the greatest leverage point – our legal system. “In granting nature legal standing, humans can raise cases in defense of natural entities as though they were endowed with the same rights as humans,” Pella Thiel explains. While we listen to the movement’s success stories, it becomes clear that there is potential for sweeping changes at the stroke of a pen. “With enough pressure,” I think, “something like this could actually work!”

Located at the foot of Storglaciären, Tarfala Research Station has provided a basecamp to world-renowned scientists since 1946.

How does change happen? But soon, questions begin to gnaw at me. Perhaps it’s a bit optimistic to believe we could protect nature’s rights when we do such a poor job of protecting the rights of our fellow humans? I think about the other paths proposed by the guests. Change at the individual level, one by one and voluntarily? But climate change is clearly a systemic problem… And come to think about it, isn’t busisuston – 59

PHOTO: JOSH EWING

ENVIRONMENT

Located well above the Arctic Circle and deep in the Swedish Arctic wilderness, just getting to the station is a feat in itself. But using train, dogsled and ski demonstrates that low CO2 travel can also add to the experience.

ness’ insatiable hunger for growth and profits the reason we’re all sitting here having these discussions in the first place? What is the solution here, really? Confusion sets in. Fortunately, at some point I’m thrown a lifeline. “The thing about system change,” Nigel Topping is saying, “is you never know what will change the system until it’s already happened. That’s why it’s good to have many different strategies running at the same time.” I let that sink in. It does makes sense to keep attacking the problem from different angles despite their obvious shortcomings, and just because individuals, organizations and ideas may be ahead of their time, it doesn’t mean their time will never come. From vision to action Our final ski tour is bitter-sweet, climaxing at a spectacular panorama on Kebnekaise’s south peak ice cap while knowing that it is destined to melt away before long. The common thread running through the week’s discussions has been similarly double-sided, focusing on solutions to climate change on the one hand and on the other, learning more about the impending crisis should we fail. Yet in spite of the odds, there’s a palpable sense of optimism as we ascend the rolling glaciers by ski, bandage one another’s blistered feet afterward and dine together in the mess-hall. What is

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TARFALA RESEARCH STATION he arfala esearch tation is a field station run by Stockholm University’s Department of Physical Geography, specializing in glacial and climatological research. The station is located at the base of Sweden’s highest peak, Kebnekaise, in the upper reaches of Tarfala valley. This is a typical sub-arctic, high alpine valley into which four glaciers terminate. Storglaciären is the most famous of these and is one of the most researched glaciers in the world. The Tarfala Research Station’s only other neighbor is the STF (Swedish Tourist Association) Tarfala Mountain Cabin, open to the public and offering beds and a self catering kitchen. natgeo.su.se/tarfala-forskningsstation stfturist.se/anlaggningar/stf-tarfala-fjallstuga

ENVIRONMENT

JOHAN ROCKSTRÖM

Born: 1965 Resides: Vaxholm Known for: One of the world’s most sought-after climate experts. In October 2018, he left his position as director of the Stockholm Resilience Center and assumed the role of Joint Director of the Potsdam Institute for Climate Impact Research.

it that the participants see that gives them hope? Maybe they see one another. Maybe they understand that if the solutions already exist, then it just comes down to rolling up our sleeves and getting to work. Or maybe it’s not all bad news, as Johan Rockström observes: “Climate change doesn’t only represent unprecedented risks, but unprecedented opportunities as well. As a global civilization, we now have the incentive and have begun taking the first steps towards redefining our relationship to the planet and to one another.” Thoughts come easy on dogsleds The last day, I find myself packing out the same way I had come in – by dogsled. Finding inspiration has been easy in these pristine mountains, I reflect as we whisk across the valley bottom. Thoughts untangled. But will I be able to keep old thought and behavioral patterns from creeping in once we return to the cramped, asphalted world below? I observe the dogs with amazement as they pull me along so effortlessly, and ask our young musher, Kuba Ziolko, to share more about his trade. “Once you learn the personalities of the dogs, it quickly becomes obvious where to place them in the team,” he explains, and continues: “The pair in front must be well-natured, know the commands, and respond without hesitation

when called into action. The next pair are younger up-in-coming leaders, learning the commands and watching the two dogs in front. Next are a couple of random dogs that simply add their strength. Finally, the strongest dogs are put at the back. Any other configuration and you won’t get anywhere. The dogs will just fight, lose focus and tire out quickly.” My mind wanders back to civilization and to the seeming confusion of everybody going in all directions. Of the multitudes of the willing who yearn to act, but are not sure how. With the Paris Agreement, we now know where the finish line is. The next step is to assemble the teams. Not everybody needs to break trail. Where good leaders lead others can follow, and those at the forefront can pass on their know-how to the up-and-comers. People who feel they have nothing to contribute? There’s always the random dog post available, and it’s crucial. Lots of energy but don’t know what to do with it? Get behind a team and start pushing. I think of the chaos of the sled dogs before they started running, untethered and without direction. Then their frustrated wails and howls as they’re teamed up, itching to run but still held back. Then, the sudden silence filled only by the wind and sense of shared purpose as they are finally released. So where should we go? Tarfala Think Tank might be a very good place to find the direction.

More Info: For a quick introduction to what Johan Rockström considers to be sustainable and necessary solutions for the future, you can listen to his latest TED-talk: “5 transformational policies for a prosperous and sustainable world.” Would you like to know more on the subject? Johan Rockström also co-authored the report Exponential Climate Action Roadmap, which lists 33 solutions that can drastically reduce global emissions of greenhouse gases within central sectors of the global economy – energy, transport, buildings, industry, agriculture and forestry. exponentialroadmap. org

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PARTNER: REIMA SPONSORED CONTENT

Looking After Kids – And Their Planet

In 2019, Reima will celebrate its 75th birthday with a collection free from harmful chemicals, increased recycled content and unique designs inspired and tested by outdoor life in Nordic nature.

he apparel industry’s reputation when it comes to pollution and waste has become well-known. But Reima fights this actively through intentional material and design choices. For example, Reima’s clothing is 100% PFC free, using non-toxic dirt and water repellants like Bionic-Finish Eco and renewably sourced, plant-based and bluesign approved EcoElite instead. Reima’s aim is to continually increase the share of recycled material in its collections as it finds fabric solutions that meet its high durability standards, and its autumn/winter 2019 collection will feature more recycled polyester than ever before using material sourced from used PET bottles. But Reima aspires to go a step further and is also developing innovations with recycled fibers from old synthetic garments through the Trash-2-

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Cash project, closing the loop to create the most sustainable use of synthetic, non-biodegradable durable fibers. Products that go the distance Product longevity is itself an effective way to reduce waste, whereby a durable construction will ensure products last from season to season, child to child. And as of Spring 2019, customers will also be offered a repair kit containing a sheet of self-adhesive patch material, enabling waterproof repairs without having to sew one single stitch. But finally, there comes a day when there are no more siblings in the family left to inherit the product, though it may still have many more years of potential use. Here, Reima helps extend the product lifespan even further by encouraging customers to sell their used clothes

through Reima’s partner Emmystore.com, Finland’s largest online store for preowned brand clothing. This in turn has had the great spin-off effect of convincing new customers of Reima’s quality and durability. The Nordic way In all its material and design decisions, Reima promotes the Nordic way of parenting that enables kids’ joy of movement and free play, in all seasons and climates. And when it comes to reducing the environmental and health impact of its products, Reima is convinced that what’s good for our kids is also good for our planet. ISPO Munich: Hall A2/104 OR Snow Show: 42031/UL Reima.com

WINTERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S WARRIORS The Tarfala pioneers are not the only ones taking to the mountains to tackle climate change. Meet four prominent skiers and riders also fighting to ensure the sustainable future of their sport.

Marie-France Roy. Whistler, Canada. Photo: Erin Hogue.

INSPIRATION

THE RADICAL Professional snowboarder and activist Marie-France Roy is fighting for the survival of her sport, joining the newest Protect Our Winters branch and releasing a film that goes way beyond snowboarding. BY KASSONDRA CLOOS PHOTO JUSSI GRZNAR

From words to action

Before becoming a professional snowboarder, Roy studied applied ecology at Cégep de Pocatiere, a university in Quebec, and she has followed the

change in the environmental discourse over the years with interest: “More people are talking about climate change now than they were then, fifteen years ago. But too many people still refuse to believe in climate change, or they don’t understand why we’re running out of time.” People can’t just quit their jobs, stop traveling, or give up their cars – Roy knows that’s not realistic. And not everyone can build their own sustainable cob house like the one she built on Vancouver Island. But she hopes that air travel will someday be more sustainable, we will all work together to consume less, and we’ll prioritize biodiversity and the health of future generations. “Arguing and pointing the finger at each other about who has the biggest footprint is not only wasting precious time and energy towards improvements, but it’s also making the rest of the population afraid to join the conversation and efforts,” Roy says. “Humans are incredibly smart and nature is extremely resilient, so I will always have hope. We have all the tools, but we need to make this challenge an immediate priority before it is too late. We need to understand that sustainability is the ultimate ‘profit’ and that no economy can survive without clean water, air and food.”

PHOTO: SEAN BLACK

sustainaible lifestyle is about more than composting, eating organic, and building your home from recycled or renewable materials. Just ask Marie-France Roy, the famous Canadian snowboarder who is vice chair of Protect Our Winters Canada, and ambassador for Patagonia and other snowsport companies. She’ll be the first to tell you that world travel isn’t easy on the planet. “As a snowboarder, my footprint is massive, mainly from flights and travel needs. But as hypocritical as this lifestyle is, I speak up because I want to address the issue and work towards solutions instead of remaining hopeless and silent. We all add up to the problem so yes, ultimately, we all are hypocrites for demanding change. But solutions don’t happen from silence.” Roy uses snowboarding as her vehicle for climate change activism. She helped open Protect Our Winters’ new Canadian outpost this fall and went on tour with the organization to mobilize the country’s outdoor industry to tackle climate change in a meaningful way. Her latest project is touring for the release of the Beyond Boarding documentary “The Radicals,” which explores environmental and cultural issues First Nations communities are battling in western Canada. The film follows Roy, snowboarders Meghann O’Brian and Tamo Campos, and surfer Jasper Snow Rosen as they go beyond sport to raise awareness about urgent threats to the land, ecosystem and First Nations people’s ways of life. The Xwisten Nation, for example, is battling hydro-electric dams that are destroying salmon habitats in British Columbia. Salmon are vital to the overall health of the ecosystem, and their decline has been linked to the frighteningly low number of killer whales still able to survive in the area.

MARIE-FRANCE ROY

Occupation: Professional Snowboarder Age: 34 Residence: Whistler, Canada More info: protectourwinters.ca

INSPIRATION

RENAISSANCE MAN Like a figure from the Renaissance, Tobias Luthe routinely crosses many of the imagined boundaries of our world and follows his multiple passions down whatever paths they lead. BY JONATHAN FRAENKEL-EIDSE PHOTO JEAN-LUC GROSSMANN

n stark contrast to the specialist that dominates our era, Tobias Luthe’s hats are many and include mountain guide, inventor, photographer, entrepreneur and professor. Yet wherever his curiosity may wander, he keeps returning to find inspiration in the wild places that raised him. “I grew up in the mid-mountain range of Germany. It was a small town with not much to do, so I spent most of my time in the woods. I loved the forests, I loved the trees. It was this initial passion that drove my hunger to understand nature’s designs, balances, flows and materials.”

From science labs to hemp skis TOBIAS LUTHE

Occupation: University professor, inventor, mountain guide and more. Age: 44 Residence: Zurich, Switzerland More info: tobiasluthe.de

It took a decade and no less than four university degrees in as many countries to begin satiating this hunger for knowledge, eventually attaining a Ph.D. in Environmental Sciences from the German Sports University (DSHS) in Cologne. “Gaining more and more insights into the theories of complex systems, I was thinking about how this knowledge could be put into practice in the socio-technical environment. One example is the design mentality behind skis, which I saw to be problematic and wasteful.”

“I came up with a question that peaked both my passion for skiing and my research interests: What if skis or skiing could be used to communicate sustainability? And so I got to work.” This work culminated in a ski that would win the 2018 ISPO Award for Eco-Responsibility: the regenerative designed Grown MonViso Hemp Edition – a 100% industrial hemp fiber-Paulownia wood composite sandwich core construction ski. To discover whether or not Tobias succeeded in his goal to communicate sustainability through his ski, one needn’t look further than the ISPO Award jury’s own statement: “Using systemic design to combine natural, locally sourced materials with innovative production methods and a scientific approach, this is a real inspiration for everyone within and beyond the hardgoods ski industry. The expectation for the jury was to judge a ski… we found both – a statement of the future and a beautiful product.”

Pushing – and ignoring – boundaries

PHOTO: ERIC L. BERLOW

While life has certainly gotten much busier since those timeless wanderings of his youth, Tobias still makes a point of regularly returning to wild spaces either privately or as a mountain guide in order to stay close to his primary source of joy and inspiration. “Due to time constraints, when I do get into the wild it’s more intense, yet I’m also more aware. For me, it’s become more about observing complexity and systems in action, and how these relate to design needs,” he says, before quickly adding, “But I still make sure to have fun and play! Not just to feel better, but because it also unleashes all sorts of creative problem-solving. I believe that our best bet in restoring balance with nature rests in learning from and within nature, biomimicry being one such practice. And for me, it’s important to find creative ways to communicate these complex ideas, to make them more tangible and accessible.”

Tobias Luthe lectures at the Systemic Design for Sustainability course at the Zurich Technical University ETH.

INSPIRATION

THE COMPETITOR The world’s elite downhill skiers are dependent on snow and glaciers – yet their CO2 emissions are far above average. The Swedish Alpine National Team has promised to halve its carbon footprint within four years. BY MATS NYMAN PHOTO MALIN POPPY DARCY MÖRNER

Five Areas of Focus

In the fall of 2018, Vattenfall launched the National Climate Team campaign to inspire more people to start living more climate-smart. Here, the Swedish national team skiers were challenged in five different areas: Home, community, shopping, driving and meat consumption. Frida Hansdotter’s personal goal in the challenge was to switch to an electric car, eat more vegetarian meals and buy more used items. But it’s not that easy combining life as a professional skier with reducing one’s impact on the climate. Later that fall, she uploaded a picture of her new sponsor car – an Audi Q8 – and received some criticism from her followers on Instagram. “Many of my followers are extremely committed. And of course it would be great fun to have an electrically powered Audi in the future.” She has started working on climate-smart solutions at home as well. “I think it’s fun to try out more vegetarian meals. We also installed solar panels at home. For me, it is important to try to find more environmentally friendly ways to continue doing what you think is fun to do. And the more I learn and think about the environment, the more opportunities I see to change to more sustainable alternatives.”

PHOTO: KLAS ROCKBERG

rida Hansdotter is one of Sweden’s biggest alpine stars. She won the Slalom World Cup in 2016 and stood atop the podium at the 2018 Olympics in PyeongChang. Now, she and the entire Alpine national team are facing a new challenge: By 2022, they are going to halve their carbon emissions. “It’s great that the Swedish Ski Association is addressing the issue head-on and looking at what the association as a whole can do in the national team activities. We weren’t asked to change our private lives as part of the project – but I’m learning a lot that I’m benefiting from in my private life as well,” says Frida Hansdotter. The climate initiative was launched two years ago in collaboration with the Vattenfall energy company, which has been the main sponsor of the Alpine national team since 1994. When Vattenfall put together an analysis of the ski association’s climate impact, the result was disappointing. The Swedish Environmental Protection Agency’s climate target for 2050 is one metric tonne (2.2 US ton) of carbon dioxide per inhabitant per year. Today, the Swedish population emits an average of approximately 7 metric tonnes per person. For Frida Hansdotter, the number came to 28.7 metric tonnes. “Since we’re traveling as much as we do, it would have surprised me more if we had been doing well,” says Frida Hansdotter. Since the beginning of 2017, a number of activities have been carried out within the ski association – partly to inform and educate internally and partly to specify measures to reduce carbon dioxide emissions. Education on driving in a climate-smart manner, the installation of solar cells at the national arena in Åre and a new agreement with SAS airlines regarding a larger share of biofuels are some of the steps that have been taken along the way. “The hardest part is cutting down on travel and transportation to where we train as well as to competitions. But I know that they are working with these issues as well,” says Frida.

FRIDA HANSDOTTER

Profession: Professional alpine ski racer Age: 34 Residence: Fagersta, Sweden More info: skidor.com

INSPIRATION

STRAIGHT SHOOTER According to Auden Schendler of Aspen Skiing Company, what we really need is a revolution – the outdoor industry’s beloved public lands will quickly become unrecognizable without one. BY KASSONDRA CLOOS & JONATHAN FRAENKEL-EIDSE PHOTO ASPEN SKIING COMPANY

AUDEN SCHENDLER Profession: VP of sustainability for Aspen Skiing Company Age: 47 Residence: Basalt, Colorado, USA More info: aspensnowmass. com

uden Schendler, vice president of sustainability for Aspen Skiing Company and a Protect Our Winters (POW) board member, is not known for sugarcoating the severity of the global climate crisis. Besides working behind the scenes to green up resort operations, Schendler has also spearheaded initiatives to get customers involved. Now it’s time, he says, for your company to get off the sidelines and get involved. Without major action on climate, the whole industry is at stake. “The question POW is trying to answer is, why doesn’t the outdoor industry wield power on climate the way the NRA does on guns?” asks Auden. “The NRA is successful because they have a passionate constituency that’s basically rabid. What we want to do in 2019 and beyond, is to weaponize the outdoor industry as a political force, an advocacy force on climate.” Some may suggest the reason why global warming is not being properly addressed is because it’s both too far-off and too big, but Auden doesn’t buy into this: “I think we’re capable of engaging a big problem and not being scared. That goes against Americanness—we’re not scared of big, scary things; we take them on.”

Auden observes that businesses have great power in the United States, and that almost without exception they’re not speaking out on climate to their customers or elected officials in the United States and elsewhere. “These people can push other companies and their trade groups to elevate this issue and stop talking about public lands. Public lands will be sacrificed if we fail to solve climate.” The outdoor industry has certainly made its mark on the public lands debate. But Auden believes it has been prioritized over climate change because it’s simply the easier and safer of the two: “No one’s going to criticize a business for supporting or protecting public lands. But you could say, ‘What are you doing talking about climate? You’re just an outdoor business.’” But as Auden sees things, this is a pivot we need to make: “There is something kind of clueless about saying ‘We gotta protect our public lands,’ when we know full well that we’re headed for a level of warming that will [render these places] nothing like what we understand them to be. They will be entirely different.”

Inform and empower

Auden observes that there’s a big communication gap when it comes to explaining what’s needed to tackle climate change. “What we need from people, businesses, institutions, is engagement in a democratic society. Participation, at the local, state, and federal levels. That means voting, writing, and running for office.” Aspen Skiing Company has taken this message to heart and has gone from a “Come see Aspen” marketing campaign to “Here’s how you can become climate activists.” As Auden explains: “We created a website that allows you to contact your elected officials. We released 1 million postcards to three key senators we think can swing on climate. So we’re reaching a ton of people, educating people. We’re also saying to the rest of the industry, ‘Hey, it’s OK to do this—you can talk about these issues and not get in trouble.’”

Shoes getting ready for a second life.

Repairs at the Elite Level From the Swedish Alpine National Team to conscious consumers – more and more people are discovering the advantages of Kavat’s repair service.

ver the last few years, repair has gained increasing attention within the outdoor industry. But in certain segments this is nothing new. In footwear – particularly shoes and boots made of leather – this service has always been offered. Not just by brands, but also by the global shoemaker trade, which has passed the craft on for centuries. The Swedish footwear brand Kavat was founded in 1945 in what was then the 72 – suston

heart of Sweden’s shoe manufacturing, the small city of Kumla. Calle Karlsson, the company’s quality and environment manager, is the grandson of the founder Ragnar Karlsson and “grew up in the factory,” as he says. “We have always taken in worn-out shoes from our customers and repaired them. In the 1970s, the company stood at a crossroad: Either we had to focus on quality shoes – which can be repaired – or begin competing with low prices,”

shares Karlsson. Fortunately, Kavat chose the first option. For a long time, however, repairs were offered on an informal basis. But two years ago Kavat, one of the industry’s pioneers in sustainability, wanted to see if the service could be scaled up as a way to make the business more circular. The company has its own shoemaker in Kumla, but also many knowledgeable shoemakers in its own factory in Bosnia. A pilot project began to take form: to