VOLUME 12.2
Ulrich Krauer General Manager Halekulani
As many of you are aware, we have spent these last few months strategizing the future of Halekulani. In mid-July we made the decision to keep the Hotel closed and embark on a yearlong renewal project with plans to reopen in Summer of 2021. This exciting project will allow us to continue the Halekulani legacy while enriching the guest experience for the future. We will be sure to share our progress on halekulani.com, so please visit us for the latest information in the coming months.
In the meantime, we will continue sharing the spirit of Hawaiâi with you wherever you are. In this issue of Living, enjoy stories of hope, resilience, and innovation by way of Oâahuâs local arts, culture, and nature. Take a tour of MAâO Farms, a holistic farm on the west side of Oâahu aiming to nourish the community through food. View never before displayed artifacts from Hawaiâiâs monarchy safeguarded at âIolani Palace, and learn about cultural Obon festivities, the Japanese Buddhist customs to honor the spirits of our ancestors.
On Living TV, accessible remotely at halekulaniliving.tv, enter the home of late painter and illustrator, Jean Charlot, offering a showcase of midcentury modern architecture. Meet Kamran Samimi, an Iranian-Scandinavian sculptor who works with natural materials like stone and wood to create masterful geometric and organic shapes that stand the test of time.
Enjoy these stores as we hope that they will transport you to the warmth and aloha of our islands. From the entire Halekulani family, we look forward to welcoming you back to our âHouse Befitting Heavenâ and âHouse of Welcoming Waters.â Please stay well and take care. A hui hou ⊠until we meet again.
Warmly,
Ulrich Krauer General Manager Halekulani
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Halekulani Living 2
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12
MASTHEAD
Halekulani Living
ABOUT THE COVER:
The cover image is a detail of a print from the series Learn about his process on page 22, and step into his studio space on Living TV.
14
116 32
Renko Floral prompts fantastical musing.
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During Obon, families pay respect to their ancestors.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
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ARTS 22
åç¹ã®è¿œæ± 32
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CULTURE 56
çèžãã®é¢šæ¯ 70
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çåœã®éºå WELLNESS 90 ã¢ã€ããè²ãŠã
Local filmmakers share inspirational settings for their work around Oâahu.
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FASHION 102
å®¶ã®å®ãã 112
ã¹ãããã©ã€ãïŒ ã¢ã¬ããµã³ããŒã»ããã¯ã€ãŒã³ CITY GUIDES 116
ã¯ã€ã«ããªçŸ 122
ãã«ãŒãã»ãªã³ã»ã¶ã»ããŒã 129
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ABOUT THE COVER:
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Halekulani Living
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Living TV is designed to complement the understated elegance enjoyed by Halekulani guests, with programming focused on the art of living well. Featuring cinematic imagery and a luxurious look and feel, Living TV connects guests with the arts, style, and people of Hawaiâi. To watch all programs, tune into channel 2 or online at halekulaniliving.tv.
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WHAT TO WATCH
SEEKING THE SOURCE
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With his elemental artworks, Kamran Samimi explores metaphysical questions.
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IN PROSE AND PALMS
watch online at: halekulaniliving.tv
An Emmy Award-winning look inside the elegant home and forest of late poet W.S. Merwin.
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Two artifacts of Hawaiian featherwork have been returned in perpetuity to Hawaiâi in 2020. Discover the techniques of this ancient art form.
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TREE OF LIFE
Halekulani's emblematic kiawe tree has borne witness to 130 years of storied history.
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HOME BASED
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Silver and neutrals stoke a sense of comfort at the refined Charlot House in KÄhala.
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WHERE 110 RENOWNED RETAILERS & 30 DINING DESTINATIONS CREATE ONE TIMELESS PARADISE. THIS LAND IS OUR LEGACY. THIS IS HELUMOA AT ROYAL HAWAIIAN CENTER. Apple Store | Fendi | Harry Winston | HermÚs | Jimmy Choo | Kate Spade New York | Leather Soul | Loro Piana | Rimowa Salvatore Ferragamo | Tiffany & Co. | Tory Burch | Tourneau | Valentino | Island Vintage Wine Bar | Noi Thai Cuisine | P.F Changâs Restaurant Suntory | The Cheesecake Factory | Tim Ho Wan | TsuruTonTan Udon Noodle Brasserie | Wolfgangâs Steakhouse See all there is to discover at RoyalHawaiianCenter.com Open Daily | KalÄkaua Avenue and Seaside, WaikÄ«kÄ« | 808.922.2299 FREE WIFI REVEL IN THE AIR OF SERENITY. CONNECT TO THE ROOTS OF THIS HISTORIC LAND. WHERE PARADISE IS YOUR PLAYGROUND. WELCOME TO OUR LEGACY.
ARTWORK BY MADGE TENNENT
ARTS
TEXT BY SPENCER KEALAMAKIA
IMAGES BY MARK KUSHIMI
ARTWORK COURTESY OF KAMRAN SAMIMI
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The Honolulu-based artist draws from his experiences growing up on Hawaiâi Island.
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With
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Kamran Samimi explores time, form, and metaphysical truths.
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Kamran Samimiâs sculptures remind me of the song âPÅhakuloa.â The song, written and performed by falsetto singer Gary Haleamau, honors Hawaiâi Islandâs saddle region, the high plateau between Maunakea and Mauna Loa. Haleamauâs voice pitches higher and higher as he captures the unearthly experience of being 7,000 feet above the sea on ancient lava flowsââpÅhaku peleââand in plaintive Hawaiian he sings the refrain, âPÅhakuloa nahenahe mai,â meaning âgentle, sweet PÅhakuloa.â It seems an odd way to describe the regionâs frigid climate and arid landscape, yet there couldnât be a more perfect description. The song is a hymnâas mele and oli often areânot in praise of PÅhakuloaâs appearance but its essence.
I have the song in mind when I visit Samimi at his workspace on the ground floor of a plantationstyle house in MÄnoa. Itâs dimly lit, and the still, cool air makes it feel subterranean. Laid out along the wall and on the ground are stones varying in size, shape, and texture, most of them found or salvaged basalt: chunks of sharp aâÄ, knotty pÄhoehoe, river stones worn smooth, cinder bits airy like popcorn.
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Halekulani Living 22
ARTS
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Sculptures from Suiseki (2015).
Named after the Japanese tradition of stone appreciation, this body of work focuses on the manipulation of small boulders.
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Beyond its geologic connection to the islands, basalt is one of Samimiâs favorite materials to work with because of its endless variations. This is especially true in his sculptural work, a process he describes as a collaboration with nature. âI look at and listen to the stone,â Samimi says. âI observe it, feel it.â If he listens well enough, the stone will show him how to work with it, where it wants to be cut, in a way that preserves its integrity. âThe form and life of it,â he says. âThen, I cut.â
The results are rhythmic, as seen in his series, Season Stones . The cutting and positioning of each segment implies willed movement, a measure we often use to determine what is and isnât living. The results are also a paradox. Each stoneâs interior is revealed and shown in contrast to its exterior, a geologic vivisection that compels us to look closely at an object we might have otherwise cast aside. In Void Stones , we consider the inner and outer lives of stonesâtheir beginnings, middles, endsâand, perhaps, measure them against our own.
The Honolulu-based artist draws from his experiences growing up on Hawaiâi Island in the town of LaupÄhoehoe, one of a handful of tiny former sugar towns scattered along the coastal cliffs between Hilo and Honokaâa. Itâs the sort of place where time crawls, where space stretches across the sea to the horizon, and where an intricate Japanese rock garden is a fine, even preferable, substitute for a lawn. Samimi recalls scavenging the LaupÄhoehoe Point shore with his brother and collector father, searching for unique stones, driftwood, and other curiosities brought in by the sea.
Though he grew up on Hawaiâi Island, a sense of home has eluded Samimi for much of his life. âI grew up here, but I have this Persian name. My dad is from Iran, but I donât look Persian and I donât speak the language,â Samimi says. âMy mom is from Minnesota. Her Scandinavian heritage is interesting to me, but I know hardly anything about the culture. So, if Iâm not any of these things, what am I? Whereâs my place in this world?â
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Halekulani Living 26 ARTS
27 äœååããã€ãã»ã¹ããŒã³ãºãã®ã¯ããŒã¹ã¢ããïŒ2019幎ïŒ
Detail on a piece from Void Stones (2019).
Samimi is intent on uncovering and exposing that which lies hidden within.
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Samimi used to feel as if he was from nowhere, but now knows heâs from all of these places. What he once perceived to be a lack of identity, of a home, he now understands to be an abundance. Art making pushed him to see all of the inner resources he has at his disposal and to draw upon them.
All of these facets find their way into his work. âIâm interested in making art that speaks to universal ideas, universal materials, universal forms, themes,â Samimi says. âI want to explore what connects us, not what separates us. Thatâs beautiful and interesting to me.â
In 2020, the Shangri La Museum of Islamic Art, Culture & Design selected Samimi as its artist in residence, the first artist from Hawaiâi to receive the honor. The opportunity came at a time when Samimi was interrogating his reasons for making art. With new resources at hand, he returned to exploring geometric sculpture. Painting, meanwhile, gave him an immediacy of expression thatâs impossible with sculpture. His latest ink-on-canvas series, Presence and Absence , expounds upon Samimiâs concerns with time, channeling them inward to include meditations on our own impermanence rather than encompassing wide spans of Earthâs history.
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Halekulani Living 28
ARTS
Exploring relationships between the architectural and organic is a recurring theme in his work.
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29
Before I leave Samimiâs workspace, I take a look at his showroom. His Suiseki series sits on shelves, and a combination of tables and pedestals showcase his larger pieces and prints. Adjoining the showroom is his living area, where the kitchenette is practically within reach of the bed. Itâs all so devotional: modest living in the midst of icons and totems. âThat universal source is what Iâm really interested in,â Samimi says. âItâs something thatâs important to me, and it always has been. Iâm searching, and with each piece I get a little closer.â
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Halekulani Living 30 ARTS
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LOOKING FOR PÄLEHUA
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For the past decade, the obsession of local architect Graham Hart has been Vladimir Ossipoffâs little-known personal retreat.
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At first, the mystery home had no name. Only a brief cameo in a few seconds of the documentary film True to Form about the Hawaiâi architect Vladimir Ossipoff. The man is undeniably Hawaiâiâs most celebrated architect, the north star of Hawaiian Modernism. True to Form chronicles his journey from Vladivostok, Russia, to Tokyo to Hawaiâi, where he became known for designing buildings that were attuned to their environments. In the film, a snippet of grainy footage shows Ossipoffâtall, sturdily built, mustache on an angular faceâstanding on a simple lÄnai amid towering pines, gazing at the horizon.
True to Form was released in 2007, amid a renewed appreciation for midcentury architecture. Graham Hart saw the film a year or two later while an architecture student at the University of Hawaiâi at MÄnoa. As someone enchanted with midcentury modernism, and with Ossipoff in particular, the mystery home stood out. And yet the film made no mention of the projectâs location.
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IMAGES BY JOHN HOOK
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Halekulani Living ARTS 33
Hawaiian Modernism defined the islandsâ architecture for much of the mid-20th century.
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So, Hart began to dig. In the book Hawaiian Modern: The Architecture of Vladimir Ossipoff, he found a reference to a cottage designed as a personal retreat in the Waiâanae Mountains. In conversations with Ossipoffâs former friends and colleagues, he heard mention of a place called PÄlehua and a simple, Japanese-style cabin there. In 2018, New York-based photographer Chris Mottalini posted on Instagram a present-day photo of a rough-hewn lÄnai jutting into space, Oâahuâs green mountains far in the background, and tagged it with the names Ossipoff and PÄlehua.
âHere was a photo that Iâd never seen, of a project Iâd never seen in person, from a photographer I had never heard of,â Hart later recalled. The lÄnai wasnât exactly the same as the one he had seen in the film, but the setting looked right. PÄlehua refers to a remote part of Oâahu near the NÄnÄkuli Forest Preserve, north of Makakilo. Hart used Google Earth to scour the area for clues. Much of it is ranch land. Hart zoomed in on every structure visible in the satellite imagery but couldnât discern whether any of them was the mystery house. At night, the cabin appeared in Hartâs dreams.
By 2019, Hart was a lecturer at the UH School of Architecture and preparing, with Brandon Large, to open his own architectural firm, Kokomo Studio. One day, he screened True to Form for an undergraduate design class. Afterward, he shared about the mysterious cabin, which further research had revealed was actually two cabinsâa main cabin built in the 1950s as a personal retreat and a oneroom guest house added several years laterâand showed the students where he suspected it was. A student enrolled through the universityâs kÅ«puna (elder) program approached him after class. She said she knew who owned the PÄlehua property: a family by the name of Gill.
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Halekulani Living 34 ARTS
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Today, the cabins are being rehabilitated. Image courtesy of Graham Hart.
When we finally reached Ossipoffâs former retreat, heavy clouds had enveloped the ridge, giving everything the feeling of a dream.
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Ossipoff published very little in his lifetime. There are few instances of his design philosophy put into words.
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A few months later, after a series of email exchanges with a man named Gary Gill, Hart found himself heading west on H-1, Honolulu dissolving into suburban housing tracts and industrial parks. With him were myself; my wife, Allison; and Hartâs partner, Danalli, who, unbeknownst to her had grown up not too far from Ossipoffâs cabins in Makakilo. We had been invited to PÄlehua for a community workday organized by Liza and Tommy Gill, Garyâs niece and nephew, who live on the mountain. In addition to an afternoon of trail-building and brush-clearing, we had been assured that we would be able to see the cabins. As we climbed, we left behind rows of bland, Mediterranean-style houses and entered a rugged landscape cratered by a hundred years of cattle grazing. We met Liza and a few others at a lodge owned by Camp PÄlehua, an overnight camp where groups learn about Hawaiian culture and land conservation. From there, it was another 30 minutes of steep driving to the Ossipoff property, which sits close to 2,500 feet above sea level.
Liza explained that the Gill family had acquired the Ossipoff cabins as part of a much larger land purchase. In 2009, in a joint venture with the Trust for Public Land and the Edmund C. Olson Trust, the family helped purchase 7,000 acres of the former Campbell Estate as part of a large-scale forest restoration effort. Four thousand acres, previously owned by The Nature Conservancy, were returned to the public, while the remaining acreage was split between the two private entities. The 1,600-acre parcel owned by the Gills stretches from the shoreline to the top of the Waiâanae ridge and includes Camp PÄlehua, which the family now runs as part of a broader mission to restore the area to native forest. Aware of their architectural significance, the Gills plan to preserve the cabins and make them available to rent through the camp, with all money raised going back into the camp and its mission.
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Halekulani Living 38 ARTS
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For the architect, PÄlehua was an escape, a place to leave behind the hubbub of Honolulu and spend time in nature with family and friends.
In the cabins, there are design elements Ossipoff would return to throughout his career: Japanese details, handcrafted furniture, and appreciation for natural materials.
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When we finally reached Ossipoffâs former retreat, heavy clouds had enveloped the ridge, giving everything the feeling of a dream. The cabins were the color of the mountain. Their redwood siding grayed by the sun and colonized by the same lichens and wisps of epiphytic moss that clung to the nearby trees, as if being erased from the landscape, or rather disaggregated, returned to nature. The protruding lÄnai, which had been added after Ossipoffâs time, had been demolished, but the cabins were relatively intact. A gnarled âÅhiâa post supported the center of the main cabinâs low-pitched roof, and the simple yet elegant interiorâbuilt-in wood furniture, a brick fireplaceâopened out onto a traditional Japanese engawa via sliding shoji doors. Beyond that was nothing but a narrow stone path and thin air. The second cabin, the one-room guest house, stood nearby, nestled into the mountainside. Both structures seemed to emphasize their surroundings, their posture one of humility, subservience, pragmatism. Ossipoff was legendary for his camping trips. It was said that he would go up into the mountains with little more than a bucket of nails and fashion everything he neededâa shelter, a makeshift kitchenâfrom whatever materials he could scavenge. His cabins at PÄlehua are only slightly more engineered. The rough timber posts that support the roofs were felled within feet of where they now stood; the same is true for the boulders that support the foundationâs piers.
As we explored the cabins, I could see Hart absorbing the architecture, placing himself where Ossipoff had stood, reading the space like an archival document. The experience, he said, felt similar to flipping through an artistâs sketchbook. Ossipoffâs better-known works, such as the Liljestrand House, built several years after the cabins, are like âperfected oil paintings,â Hart said. PÄlehua is âhis thought process.â One sees in the cabins elements Ossipoff would return to over and over: Japanese details, handcrafted furniture, an appreciation for warm, natural materials. Ossipoff once said that Japanese architecture makes more sense in Hawaiâi than it does in Japan. There may not be a clearer expression of this sentiment than the cabins at PÄlehua.
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Halekulani Living 40 ARTS
The Ossipoff cabin sits close to 2,500 feet above sea level.
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Ossipoff published very little in his lifetime. There are few instances of his design philosophy put into words. In some ways, PÄlehuaâminimalist, Japanese inflected, built from what could be gathered on siteâis as close to a manifesto as exists. It is Vladimir Ossipoff, in his own words.
Today, the cabins are being carefully rehabilitated. Not everything can be reproduced; the kinds of materials and craftsmanship once common in the â50s are increasingly hard to find. But the spirit of the place is being retained, thanks in part to recollections shared with the Gills by Ossipoffâs daughters. PÄlehua is no longer the mystery it once was for Hart. Ultimately, however, it is fitting that this once-obscure and hard-to-reach entry in Ossipoffâs oeuvre is being revived and made more accessible. For the architect, PÄlehua was an escape, a place to leave behind the hubbub of Honolulu and spend time in nature with family and friends. Soon, that pleasure will be shared once again.
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Halekulani Living 42 ARTS
TEXT BY HEALOHA JOHNSTON
IMAGES BY JOHN HOOK
ARTWORK COURTESY OF HONOLULU
MUSEUM OF ART
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Opposite, âHawaiian Mona Lisa,â c. 1933.
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Madge Tennent is best known for her bold color palette and reverberating paint marks used to portray venerable Hawaiian women.
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Born in England in 1889 and raised in South Africa, Madge Tennent trained in France at Académies Julian from 1902 to 1906. As a young art student in Paris, she enrolled in figure-drawing classes, learned about European masterworks and classical Greek art, and studied paintings by Impressionist artists such as Ãdouard Manet and Pierre-Auguste Renoir. She drew from these experiences over the course of her long career, frequently making references to European art traditions and classical Greek ideals of beauty while painting from her home on Oâahu, where she and her husband raised their two children.
Tennent and her family came to Hawaiâi in 1923 for vacation as they traveled from their home in SÄmoaâwhere her husband, Hugh Tennent, worked as treasurer for the British SÄmoa governmentâto England. What was planned as a brief stopover became the start of a new life; the Tennents settled in Hawaiâi permanently. Tennent established herself as a talented artist with her skills at capturing the likeness and personality of a sitter, and she quickly identified a niche market of parents eager to acquire paintings of their children. Tennent kept busy with commissions during her early years in Hawaiâi. But as adept as she was at painting childrenâs portraits, the artist was unfulfilled by the endeavor and decided to shift her focus back to figure painting, regardless of commercial viability.
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Halekulani Living 44
ARTS
Tennentâs work references European and classical Greek art traditions.
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For nearly five decades, Tennentâs diaries, sketches, and completed artworks primarily featured figures of Hawaiian women, which she considered to embody aesthetic ideals and allowed her to explore principles of form and movement in art. Her combination of layered hatch marks and thick swaths of paint applied by palette knife to create a sense of motion across the canvas became a Tennent trademark.
These aspects that came to characterize her work were in stark contrast to the kind of pictures being made in the 1920s and 1930s in Hawaiâi, when the islandsâ tourism economy relied heavily on appropriating Hawaiian imagery to recruit American visitors and residents. Scenes featuring KÄnaka âÅiwi (Native Hawaiians) skilled in the arts of hula, fishing, and lei-making were set against picturesque backdrops of tranquil seascapes and paradisian landscapes to create nostalgic pictures of âold Hawaiâiâ for the hospitality industry. Early tourist campaigns depicted slender women sitting
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Halekulani Living 46
ARTS
Detail on âUntitled,â 1950. Collection of the Honolulu Museum of Art. Bequest of Patches Damon Holt, 2003.
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passively or posing seductively. Tennent had very little interest in such staged nostalgia and instead devoted her 49-year career in Hawaiâi to studying the Hawaiian matriarch as a figure who embodied the coalescence of strength and dignity. Monumental figures dressed in formal holokÅ« (long gowns) filled her large-scale canvases.
Art critic and scholar John Charlot explained that âHawaiian beauty, as Madge Tennent teaches us, is this combination of imposing mass with grace, of power with finesse, of form with flow.â Tennentâs writings and sketchbook notes describe an ongoing comparison of Greek and Hawaiian features and proportions. She considered KÄnaka âÅiwi to be âintelligent and brave past believing, bearing a strong affinity to the Greeks both in their legends and in their persons.â Tennentâs conceptions of beauty were influenced by prevailing EuroAmerican 20th-century thoughts about raceââthese super Polynesians are only equaled by those who live in our imagination through Homerââwhich romanticized aspects of Hawaiâi and its people. Such racialized stereotypes positioned Native Hawaiian women within the ethnographic gaze as âcivilized without losing their eroticism,â a notion described by scholar Jane Desmond as the âideal native.â Although Tennentâs artwork countered gender stereotypes of Native Hawaiian females as passive and docile by depicting women in motion, fully clothed in fine dresses, her notes pertaining to Hawaiian women conformed to racebased hierarchies.
The artistâs depiction of Hawaiian women was met with controversy during her lifetime. Fellow artists criticized Tennent for painting on the untreated side of the canvas and questioned her technique of layering hatch marks to build up the paint surface. Others were offended by Tennentâs departure from the slender and seductive stereotype in her portrayals of sophisticated, voluminous women. Viewers didnât realize Tennent was depicting power and strength through the use of scale, reading her paintings as satirical pictures of overweight women. But KÄnaka âÅiwi
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Halekulani Living 50 ARTS
Detail on âUntitled,â 1950. Collection of the Honolulu Museum of Art. Gift of Mr. Charles C. Spalding, Mrs. Phyllis H. Spalding and Mr. Philip E. Spalding, Jr., 1973.
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philosopher and philanthropist John Dominis Holt wrote positive reviews of Tennentâs work, acknowledging her depictions of confident Hawaiian women as a welcome contrast to the plethora of tourist campaigns and racist political cartoons circulating during the early and mid-20th century.
Interestingly, Tennent remained socially distant from the sitters in her paintings as an artist who moved in predominantly non-Native Hawaiian social circles, and available documentation of critical commentary doesnât include the perspectives of her subjects. Tennent was undeterred by the mixed reception of her work and pursued exhibitions locally and on the continental United States.
Her persistence paid off. Tennentâs paintings helped overcome the visualized stereotype of Hawaiian women as passive and available. Her artworks are in museum and private collections in Hawaiâi and across the United States, including the permanent collections of the Honolulu Museum of Art; the National Museum of Women in the Arts in Washington, D.C.; and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. By the time of her passing in 1972, Tennent was considered one of the most accomplished artists in the islands.
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Halekulani Living 52 ARTS
IMAGE
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CULTURE
IMAGES
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SCENES FROM A BON DANCE
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gatherings of community, Obon celebrates Japanese heritage and the passing on of ancestral traditions.
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Living CULTURE
Halekulani
With its gardens awash in twilight, the grounds of Nichiren Mission of Hawaiâi resemble a delicate Japanese watercolor. Narrow stone paths wind around hillocks and lichen-mottled boulders. Series of tÅrÅ stand sentry and illuminate grassy areas. Girls, clad in kimono, walk with hushed steps to a small pond framed by water lilies and cyperus plants.
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In the late 19th century, Hawaiâiâs agricultural economy was booming, and the first influx of Japanese immigrants arrived to work on the sugar plantations. They brought with them cherished cultural traditions, including Obon, the Japanese Buddhist custom of honoring the dead. During Obon, families pay respect to their ancestors by making offerings to their family shrines and visiting local temples. It is believed that the first Bon dances in Hawaiâi were held in sugarcane fields and plantation villages.
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Strands of chochin (paper lanterns) radiate from the yagura (tower), adding a warm glow to the gathering crowd at Nichiren Mission of Hawaiâi. The bamboo lanterns, reminders to seek the light, also help welcome home ancestral spirits during Obon.
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Today Hawaiâiâs Bon dances serve as cheerful reunions of sortsâyearly communions of family and friends and culture. Despite their underlying senses of solemn tradition, the Bon dance atmosphere is fun and festive. Neighbors gather together to talk story. Friendly obachan (grandmothers) chuckle as they help adjust each otherâs obi (sashes). Young children dash off to try their luck with kingyo sukui, the traditional game of scooping goldfish. While many families of Japanese heritage are present to pay homage to their roots, the event is welcoming to all.
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In the mission hallâs foyer, racks of colorful yukata (casual kimonos) and happi (straight-sleeved coats) are available to those eager to embrace traditional attire. Typically made of cotton and worn especially during warmer months, a yukata is different from its silk kimono counterpart, but the array of designs and colors in which it is made is equally beautiful. Chrysanthemums, cherry blossoms, and cranes abound, as well as family crests. Hawaiâi Bon dance dress codes are more casual than ceremonial, more relaxed than reserved.
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The smoky aroma of grilled miso cuttlefish sticks rises from a vendor booth. Nearby, andagi sizzle in pans of oil, the fried doughâs popularity evidenced by a long line trailing into the crowd. Though dancing is a big draw for these events held throughout the summer, so are the foods. People indulge in local favorites like musubi, yakisoba, and butter mochi.
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A few miles away, in a neighborhood near WaikÄ«kÄ«, a bright summer moon hangs over the Kapahulu Center where the Honolulu Fukushima Bon Dance Club has congregated. Chairs surround the yagura, offering their occupantsâparents holding sleepy toddlers in their laps, grandparents looking content and nostalgicâample views of the sea of dancers before them. Itâs a special night for all, and for the ancestors, too, smiling down upon them.
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TEXT BY KYLIE YAMAUCHI
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By 1931, the lei business had grown steadily, with about 200 lei sellers across the islands.
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UNRAVELING LEI
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A history of Hawaiâiâs prosperous lei trade and its native vendors.
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The lei is a familiar symbol of aloha. Fragrant flower garlands are bestowed on arriving travelers as a warm welcome. Honorees peek out from head-high stacks of lei from friends and family at graduation. Grandparents teach their grandchildren how to delicately string plumeria flowers picked from their yards. Lei are believed to have existed since the arrival of the first Polynesian settlers in Hawaiâi. However, lei-making didnât evolve into a trade until the late 19th century. When it did, these garlands fueled an economy for Native Hawaiians and immigrants.
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Halekulani Living 70
CULTURE
The origin of lei traces back to when aliâi (chiefs) wore lei hulu manu (feather lei) as a symbol of royal status. Preserved lei have shown that lei hulu manu were also gifted to visiting ship captains, perhaps starting the tradition of giving lei as a greeting. Hula dancers wove long strands of maile, an endemic leafy plant, into sinewy lei they wore for their practice. When making lei to adorn themselves, gift to their gods, or present to peers, Hawaiians used shells, kukui nuts, and foliage such as ti leaf.
Lei-making transformed into a profitable trade during the late 1800s, when laborers from China, Japan, and the Philippines were immigrating to Hawaiâi to work on the plantations and Honolulu was transforming into a modern city, attracting foreign visitors and dignitaries. This influx to the islands possibly accounted for the demand for lei. By the turn of the century, lei had become a staple in Hawaiâiâs local culture.
The pioneers of the lei trade were predominantly Native Hawaiian women; many could provide for their families with a one-woman venture. Lei sellers purchased large amounts of flowers to make into lei from local gardeners mostly working out of their backyards. Bessie Watson from Hawaiâi Island sold vanda orchids to lei sellers before becoming one herself during the Korean War, which she shared in an oral history recorded in 1986 by University of Hawaiâiâs Center for Oral History. âBefore, in Hilo, everybodyâs yard had vanda orchids,â she said. âWhen you flew over Hilo, all what you see was purple patches.â Other popular flowers during the 1900s were carnations, snowball hydrangea, plumeria, and pua kenikeni.
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Halekulani Living
72 CULTURE
Lei-making evolved into a trade in the late 19th century.
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The pioneers of the lei trade were predominantly Native Hawaiian women.
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With string, sewing needles, and long hours, fresh lei were ready to sell the next day. The first lei sellers frequented Honoluluâs Hotel Street with just a mat and their wares, drawing local customers from the industrious working area. Back then, lei sold for around 50 cents based on the type of flower; the pleasant pÄ«kake made for a pricier lei. Other lei sellers set up shop by the piers where liner ships ferried masses of visitors. While lei is meant to greet or honor, it can also be used as a goodbye. In the 1920s, it became a tradition for departing visitors to throw lei into the ocean when the liner passed Diamond Head, a symbolic gesture of future returns to Hawaiâi.
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CULTURE Halekulani Living 74
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By 1931, the lei business had grown steadily, with about 200 lei sellers across the islands. But as World War II reached the territory, many of the sellers had to give up the trade or adapt to survive in a military zone. With a decrease in tourism, some sellers shifted focus to a new customer baseâ the military. In Ka Poâe Kau Lei, UHâs oral history project, lei seller Sophie Ventura recalled being invited to Maluhia Recreation Center, a facility for armed forces personnel. There, she set up a stand that was frequented by military personnel buying lei for their lovers or visiting family. During this time, she grew her own flowers or gathered them from public areas.
In 1945, as World War II came to an end, a handful of lei sellers set up shop at Lagoon Drive bordering Honoluluâs airport. Creating makeshift stands with their cars, lei sellers caught the eyes of newly arriving and departing visitors. Tours bulkordered lei for upcoming guests from their chosen vendors. Business proved so lucrative that by 1952, the lei sellers of Lagoon Drive moved into government-funded grass shacks at the airport. Wooden signs displayed the names of each lei sellerââDorothyâs,â âSophiaâsââpaying homage to the patrons behind each humble business. Each grass shack held curtains of lei and had a small space for the seller to string more as the day went by. This lei market also became popular among locals. Many students headed to prom or graduation parties purchased lei there, since it was much cheaper than buying from florists.
Over the years, lei sellers have expanded their offerings, adding lei poâo (head lei), roses, and stalks of ginger to their wares. Some lei sellers stayed at the airport, while others opened stores in Chinatown and other neighborhoods. Lei are even shipped to the U.S. continent, despite the short lifespans of the flowers, for college graduations or other special occasions. Most importantly, flowers are still picked or purchased, stringing and weaving is still done by hand, and customers still come by the many. Hawaiâi will always need lei, just as we will always need aloha.
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76 CULTURE
Halekulani Living
The lei is a familiar symbol of aloha.
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From royal jewelry to personal stationary, priceless items are housed in the hidden collections of âIolani Palace, some of which have never been displayed.
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In a stark white chamber of âIolani Palaceâs collections room, a gold pocket watch rests on a piece of cloth fabric. The watchâs cover is inscribed with ornate script that reads KIK, the monogram of King KalÄkaua. The gloved hands of collections specialist Halia Hester handle the object with a mix of care and anxiety that seems surgical, as if they are transporting a human organ. Hester admits she has never opened the watch before, and her colleagues hold their collective breath. She unlocks it. Inside, opposite the watchâs face, an inscription reveals it belonged to Colonel Curtis Piâehu Iaukea, presented to him by Queen Kapiâolani on April 27, 1895. The glass surface of the timepiece is pristine. The clockâs hands are static, frozen in time.
There are other never-displayed relics from Hawaiâiâs royalty that Hester and her team have yet to reveal: a brooch and earrings fashioned of pink coral and seed pearls, a debonair three-piece silver smoking set, and a frosted glass decanter labeled âOke,â shorthand for âÅkolehao, the liquor distilled from ti root that is popularly referred to today as âHawaiian moonshine.â The most impressive, if intimidating, is a Scottish Rite 33-degree sword that belonged to KalÄkaua, a reminder of his dynastyâs Freemason associations.
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Right, a timepiece of Colonel Curtis Piâehu
Iaukea. Opposite, a decanter labeled âOke,â shorthand for âÅkolehao, the liquor distilled from ti root.
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But the pocket watch feels emblematic of all the contents vaulted away on the top floor of âIolani Palaceâartifacts that represent a bygone area, trapped in time, yet still able to surprise and share stories anew.
It turns out that identifying the objects âIolani Palace has not yet displayed is a challenge. The palace is a unique museum in the sense that most of its collection is already on view during guided tours of its rooms and corridors or has been included in special exhibits. Many of the never-displayed pieces, like stationary, donât fit the thematic scope of whatâs encountered by guests in the palace, or are simply too delicate, like jewelry, to be placed throughout the open rooms; others are waiting for the opportune moment to be curated into special exhibits on the basement floor. The palaceâs total inventory of items, both seen and unseen by the public, numbers just more than 5,000.
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Halekulani Living 80 CULTURE
Personal stationary and pendants reveal glimpses into the daily lives of the royal families.
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As a result, the majority of what the specialists have gathered in response to our inquiry are noteworthy amounts of dinner invites, calling cards, and letters handwritten by Hawaiâiâs monarchs during travels abroad. Local history and diplomatic views are discussed in an 1886 letter from KalÄkaua to Robert Walker Irwin, the Kingdom of Hawaiâiâs minister in Japan, in which he writes of a fire that burned down Chinatown two months prior and of obtaining Japanese laborers to dam up Leilehua Valley. In a personal note from Liliâuokalani to a friend, she extends an invitation to go fishing, and that is allâa prosaic glimpse at the life of a future queen who was then just a princess with a penchant for spending a free day by the water like anyone else. There is a flourish and yet a weight to this everyday ephemera of royalty.
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Halekulani Living 82 CULTURE
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Above, black onyx mourning pendant with portrait of William Pitt Leleiohoku II, a prince of the Hawaiian Kingdom and member of the reigning House of KalÄkaua.
The palaceâs inventory numbers more than 5,000 items.
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Piecing together âIolani Palace is a bit like a jigsaw puzzle. Once the political epicenter of the Hawaiian Kingdom, the Palace seeks to restore its original contentsâpractically everything that now resides inside was put up for public auction or sold at a royal estate sale following the Overthrow. Zita Cup Choy, the resident historian and docent educator, has worked at âIolani Palace for more than 40 yearsââback when the Throne Room was just carpet, and thatâs it!â she recallsâand has seen its collection grow since the museum opened its doors to the public in 1978. Scrutinizing historical photographs, government inventories, and newspaper clippings, the collections team will establish the provenance of the items by looking for makerâs marks and transcribing detailed oral histories. This is how it has acquired everything from side tables to sets of china.
As the initial contact between donor and palace, the collections team is who verifies an itemâs connection to âIolani Palace and answers that call, literally. âWhen the phone rings, I get ecstatic,â says Leona Hamano, the collection manager. âWho could be at the opposite end of the phone, right? Is it something they want to share with us or with the public?â Often, the query is not about an outright donation but rather a request to authenticate a piece in oneâs possession. âTheyâre looking for information,â Cup Choy says, âand in the process of helping them find information, weâre developing a relationship.â
That donation process, from the initial call to an objectâs acceptance by âIolani Palace, can take more than a year. In some cases, it can take more than 20, as was the case with a window bench now off the Gold Room. âYou have to respect that they are family heirlooms and they have an emotional connection to it,â Cup Choy says of the items not yet returned, elsewhere in the world and still unseen. âWhen theyâre ready, it might come back.â
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Koâolau Mountain Range
IMAGE BY JOHN
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WELLNESS
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MAâO Farms, the largest organic farm on Oâahu, is grounded in the mission of returning the Hawaiian community to its land.
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Part of the programâs success is its passionate and educated youth who go back into the community to meet the challenges of the 21st century.
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Äina, in the most general sense, means land. However, âÄina contains complexities deep and vibrant, rich and unseen. Aloha âÄina, literally âlove of the land,â is a cornerstone of Hawaiian thought and culture. After the Hawaiian Kingdom was overthrown, many Hawaiians were disenfranchised and disconnected from their land. The loss of land meant a loss of identity. As often happens when we lose sight of who we are, larger problems manifest. As modern-day issues related to economic, social, and educational poverty blighted the Hawaiian community, four Waiâanae residents stepped in to reverse this trend and turn âÄina into opportunity.
In 2001, Gary Maunakea-Forth, Kukui
Maunakea-Forth, Vince Dodge, and William Aila Sr. created the Waiâanae Community Redevelopment Corporation to serve Waiâanae, the moku (district) on Oâahu with the highest percentage of Native Hawaiians. The primary initiative of this nonprofit was to establish an organic farm. The founders believed that if severance from âÄina was at the root of community problems, then getting back on âÄina was part of the solution. So with just five acres of leased land, MAâO Organic Farms was born. MAâO is an acronym for mala (garden), âai (food), and âÅpio (youth). Here, youth ages 16 to 24 with roots in Waiâanae are hired, taught how to farm, paid a monthly stipend, and provided tuition assistance at local colleges. Like dominoes falling, the simple act of putting hands back in soil started a chain reaction.
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Halekulani Living 90
WELLNESS
âI feel like more than anything, youâre building a connection deep within yourself.â
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The farm believes that âÄina and health are directly connected.
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Approximately 350 interns have gone through the two-year Youth Leadership Training program at MAâO Farms, as of 2019. Graduates have earned 111 associate degrees, 33 bachelorâs degrees, and two masterâs degrees. Part of the programâs success is its passionate and educated youth who go back into the community to meet the challenges of the 21st century. Alongside its farm education curriculum, MAâO provides an emotional learning curriculum that focuses on the mental health of the whole being, empowering youth, and fostering growth.
Lynn Batten, a 25-year-old college student and a graduate of the leadership program, is also a fulltime employee of the farm. âWhen I first started here, I really had no idea what I wanted to do,â she said. âI kind of was a lost soul just wandering. Knowing I wanted to make social change, knowing I wanted to do something that would make an impact in the world, I really didnât know where or what that looked like at the time.â
Moving through the program at MAâO helped focus Battenâs ambitions. In fall 2017, Batten started at University of Hawaiâi at West Oâahu, where she is a double major in sustainable food systems and political science.
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Four Waiâanae residents founded MAâO Farms in response to economic and social issues within the community.
MAâO onboarded its 15th cohort of interns in June 2020.
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âI think being able to connect with the land, youâre building a connection with the plants, youâre building a connection with the food that youâre eating, youâre building a connection with the people that youâre growing the food with,â Batten said. âBut I feel like more than anything, youâre building a connection deep within yourself.â
The land does not need us. But we need the land. Occupying the most remote island chain on Earth, early Hawaiians knew their islands had very clear limits. Mismanagement of these 6,000 square miles meant extinction. What developed in Hawaiâi around the 15th century was an agricultural system of unparalleled productivity. Fertile valley after fertile valley was farmed. The food grown nourished a population of upwards of half a million people. Through the strict observance of laws governing what and when to harvest, harmony between humans and nature was established. Aloha âÄina flourished. Tragically, what took a few hundred years to develop eroded in just a few generations.
After Captain Cook put Hawaiâi on the Western map in 1778, things went south for the native population. Native Hawaiiansâ immune systems had little to no resistance to Old World diseasesâin just 40 years, roughly 70 percent of the Hawaiian population died. As the native population diminished, the foreign population flourished, and along with it came a thirst for land. Eventually, the traditional land system was replaced by a Western model in which land could be bought and sold. By the early 1900s, almost half of the total land area in Hawaiâi was controlled by fewer than 80 private landowners. While you still could find Native Hawaiians working individual plots of land, gone was the prosperous agricultural cooperative that fed the masses.
Driving down the coastal highway through Waiâanae today, it is difficult to imagine what those ancient farms looked like. The land has been developed, and more than a few fast-food restaurants have sprouted. One of the consequences of Waiâanaeâs food desert is health problems in the community, especially among Native Hawaiians.
Alika Maunakea, a Waiâanae native and assistant professor at the University of Hawaiâi at MÄnoa, co-led a 2017 study with Ruben Juarez that aimed to show how these health issues were linked to environmental factors. Maunakea teamed up
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Halekulani Living 96
WELLNESS
Aloha âÄina is a cornerstone of Hawaiian thought and culture.
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with MAâO Organic Farms interns, measuring their health statistics before and after a summer internship. Preliminary results show a dramatic 60 percent decline in risk for Type 2 diabetes after working at MAâO for a summer. Among family and friends there was about a 15 percent reduction in diabetes risk, and among friends of friends, about a 5 percent reduction. Intuitively, the results make sense. You eat the food you grow and share it with your friends and family. âÄina and health are directly connected.
MAâO onboarded its 15th cohort of interns in June 2020. The farm has expanded to 281 acres and grows more than 40 certified organic crops ranging from leafy greens to mangoes. The 3,000 pounds of produce harvested each week are sent to farmers markets, supermarkets, and eateries, including Halekulani Bakery and Restaurant. As MAâO begins its third decade of operation, it continues to stand as a paragon for building a brighter future for food security and social well-being in Hawaiâi. The program shows how an organic farm can do more than grow food, but also how a farm rooted in Hawaiian culture can cultivate tomorrowâs leaders and heal the community.
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Halekulani Living 98 WELLNESS
IMAGE BY HAROLD JULIAN
FASHION
IMAGES BY HAROLD JULIAN
STYLED BY
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HAIR + MAKEUP BY
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Glints of silver and elegant neutrals stoke a sense of ease and comfort at the already homey and refined Charlot House.
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FASHION
Frida sleeveless shirt by Rumi Murakami. Denim pants by Brunello Cucinelli. Ozma Silk Scarf from Here. The Store. Earrings by Georg Jensen.
Logan top by Matt Bruening. Linen belted trousers by Brunello Cucinelli. Levens earrings from Here. The Store. Rings by Georg Jensen.
Top and tailored denim shorts by Brunello Cucinelli. Mercy earring by Georg Jensen. St. Agni loafer from Here. The Store.
THIS PAGE
St. Agni Donna knit top and Cella skirt from Here. The Store. All jewelry by Georg Jensen.
OPPOSITE
Dress by Brunello Cucinelli. Vivianna watch, rings and Henning Koppel pitcher by Georg Jensen.
Organza top and pants by Matt Bruening. St. Agni slides from Here. The Store.
Curve neck ring and bangle by Georg Jensen.
THIS
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Frida sleeveless shirt by Rumi Murakami. Denim pants by Brunello Cucinelli. Ozma silk scarf from Here. The Store.
Earrings and Henning Koppel Pitcher by Georg Jensen.
OPPOSITE
Dress by Brunello Cucinelli.
Vivianna watch and rings by Georg Jensen.
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
TEXT AND IMAGES
COURTESY OF ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
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BLACK EMBOSSED
CROC CALF LEATHER
JEWELLED SATCHEL
$2190
THE TALL STORY IN SMOOTH OXBLOOD
CALFSKIN LEATHER
$2590
OPPOSITE PAGE
TAN LEATHER
KNOTTED STORY BAG
$2290
BLACK LEATHER
KNOTTED STORY
SHOULDER BAG
$2390
ALL AVAILABLE AT ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
ALA MOANA CENTER
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
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the sculptural and skull pouches
The Autumn/Winter 2020 pre-collection sees the introduction of new additions to the Alexander McQueen day-to-evening bag range. The softer design and texture of the pouch allows it to be folded and carried comfortably through the four-ring handle. The bag is finished with either the signature skull handle or a sculptural closure, referencing the organic qualities of the jewellery and belts in the collection. Bags are available in vivid elemental colours including mineral yellow, deep red, amethyst and black.
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the tall story
Taller sister of the story, the sculptural lines of the tote are enhanced by the option of a contrast colour lining. The Alexander McQueen seal also appears on a leather tag. This elegant statement bag is constructed to fit all essentials, including a laptop, and has a front zip pocket to easily access phone or credit cards on the go. The modern metallic handles, inspired by jewellery, allow the tote to be handheld comfortably due to their natural curve, or these can be folded down and the bag may be carried on the shoulder via leather straps.
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112
SPOTLIGHT
the story
The Story is available in new seasonal colors and textures for the Autumn/Winter 2020 pre-collection. The name takes its inspiration from the sharing of narratives - stories - which has long been at the heart of the house of Alexander McQueen. Worn by the likes of Naomi Campbell, Charlize Theron, Selena Gomez, Kaia Gerber and many more, The Story continues to establish itself as a new pillar for the house. This day-to-evening bag is characterized by the houseâs modern metal handle and can be worn multiple ways. An adjustable top handle allows it to be hand-held, worn on the shoulder or across the body via a detachable strap. In true Alexander McQueen fashion, the front handle also allows the bag to be carried as a clutch.
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the story shoulder
The Story Shoulder Bag is available in new seasonal materials and colours for the Autumn/Winter 2020 pre-collection. Taking inspiration from its predecessor, The Story, The Story Shoulder features the houseâs modern metal handle and a chain shoulder strap. A dayto-evening design, it can be worn over the shoulder, via the chain strap, or hand held â carried as a clutch â via the front metal handle with the chain passed through the leather loops either side and attached below the bag for a smooth finish. The Story Shoulder bag has one main compartment, which features a leather card holder and a front zip pocket.
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IMAGE BY JOSIAH
PATTERSON
CITY GUIDES
MÄNOA
DOWNTOWN
ALA MOANA CENTER OâAHU
TEXT BY EUNICA ESCALANTE
IMAGES BY
JOSIAH PATTERSON
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PRETTY WILD
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Eerie, avant-garde expressions of nature, the alien arrangements from Renko Floral are marvelous to behold.
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Viewing Ren MacDonald-Balasiaâs work prompts fantastical musing. What seems like a crimson tentacle emerges from the darkness. Then the light shifts, transforming it from a writhing mass of limbs into a bramble of thorns. No, wait, itâs a lizardâs curving spine. Or something elseâis it unnatural, fabricated by man? I step forward to better understand ... yet closer observation does not yield clarity. Somehow, it is none and all of them at the same time.
âTheyâre flowers,â says a voice behind me, ending my rumination. MacDonald-Balasia steps forward. Weâre in her obachanâs (grandmotherâs) MÄnoa home, where the part-time Los Angelesbased floral arranger stays when working in Honolulu. She gestures toward the arrangement and dissects it for me. What I mistook for tentacles are seeds of palm trees hanging from heaving stalks, which she manipulated to look like barbed wire. They envelop a pile of rambutan, a rubycolored fruit native to Southeast Asia known for its prickly exterior. The tangled heap is balanced,
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CITY GUIDES
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Renko Floralâs eerie arrangements prove that nature is often most mesmerizing when it is at its wildest.
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rather precipitously, on a short ceramic vase. I marvel at how it seemingly defies the laws of physics. MacDonald-Balasia confesses she often feels the same. âWhenever I make an arrangement, Iâm always holding my breath,â she says, âespecially for the more complicated ones.â
A quick perusal through MacDonald-Balasiaâs Instagram, which doubles as a portfolio for her company, Renko Floral, defines what she means by âmore complicated.â One post shows an explosion of verdant foliage interwoven with the tendrils of palm tree flowers and hands of unripe bananas still attached to the stalk, complete with a banana heart at the end. In another, handfuls of rambutan and longan are piled loosely among budding mink protea. Starfruit, bitter melon, and strings of long bean peek out from under the mountain of vegetation.
A lot of Macdonald-Balasiaâs âliving sculptures,â as she likes to call them, have an air of wild intensity, as if they were plucked right out of nature. âMy arrangements, they replicate an impression that nature has left on me,â she says. âIâm inspired by what the material looks like growing in nature. Itâs about bringing the natural world into our unnatural world.â
She traces this fascination back to her formative years in Hawaiâi, where she was born. Though she moved to L.A. when she was 9 years old, MacDonald-Balasia returned to Oâahu every summer, staying at her obachanâs house in the upper reaches of MÄnoa Valley. She recalls afternoons spent running up and down the houseâs shared driveway, a winding road along Woodlawn Drive flanked by an overgrowth of wildflowers. She foraged bouquets, stripped bark off trees, and created arrangements with which she peppered the corners of the home.
âIt was this amazing treehouse,â MacDonaldBalasia says. âGrowing up in that house, being surrounded by the umbrella trees and the guava trees, completely immersed in the natural world, influenced my curiosity and enchantment with nature.â
At 19 years old, MacDonald-Balasia began working for a flower shop in L.A. She was drawn in through the rabbit hole of ethnobotany, intrigued by flowersâ prominence in cultures throughout history.
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Halekulani Living
CITY GUIDES
For MacDonald-Balasia, her floral work is about âopening your eyes to seeing it in a different way.â
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Hawaiâi has been formative to MacDonald-Balasiaâs engagement with the floral industry.
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The daily proximity to flowers satiated her yearning to know more. Yet she was young, unsure of the practicality of a career in flowers. At one point she made a complete shift, moving back to Hawaiâi and taking a position with a state representative. But the job merely heartened her appetite to work with nature. âI loved it, but it was a desk job,â she says. âI missed touching nature and grappling with branches and leaves. That was a turning point for me.â
When she moved to New York to be with her now husband, filmmaker Andrew Theodore Balasia, she applied to work for renowned floral arranger Emily Thompson on a whim. Thompsonâs artistry would ultimately color MacDonald-Balasiaâs own. âEmily taught me that itâs more than just putting flowers in a vase,â she says. After three years under Thompson, she moved back to L.A. in 2018 and started her own business.
Since she started Renko Floral, her unique approach to the craft has attracted artists and brands, including editorial work for Cult Classic magazine, in which MacDonald-Balasia integrated whole octupuses and crabs with tropical flowers, and designing an arrangement for fashion brand Cult Gaia consisting of moth orchids, slices of lotus root, and baby potatoes strung together like a lei.
âI definitely focus more on material selection,â she says. She confesses flower markets donât offer much inspiration. âEveryoneâs getting the same stuff and making variations that look similar,â she says. âItâs just not exciting.â Foraging has remained crucial to her work. Instead of flower markets, she scours neighborsâ yards, parking lots, and the wet markets of her local Chinatown, all of which proffer a diverse, unique range of materials.
She designs with items that are âbeyond simply beautiful or rare or expensive,â gravitating toward materials that are conventionally considered too unattractive or commonplace to be in a special arrangement, like baby eggplants or coral vine weeds.
Her ethos of finding the beauty in strange things is what makes her creations so intriguing. Their eerie beauty proves that nature is often most mesmerizing when it is at its wildest. In her arrangments, anything from a simple daikon to fleshy cephalopods can warrant the center of attention. âItâs not necessarily about it being beautiful,â she says. âItâs opening your eyes to seeing it in a different way.â
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Despite a history of detractors and a villainous role in pop culture, Brutalism has become one of Hawaiâiâs most defining architectural movements, championed by a generation of architects with utopian aspirations.
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In the late 1960s, a great gray wave crashed onto the shores of Hawaiâi that had originated in Europe nearly 20 years earlier. By the time it reached Honolulu, arriving from both the United States and Japan, the architectural movement known as Brutalism had become one of the dominant styles for civic buildings around the world, from hospitals to public housing, university buildings to city halls.
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Born out of post-World War II austerity, Brutalism was defined by bold, sculptural, monumental concrete forms assembled in ways that seemed to defy gravity. Hawaiâiâs first and arguably best Brutalist building is the Financial Plaza of the Pacific, which takes up an entire city block. The building is actually three: a 21-story tower flanked by two office buildings, one 6 stories, the other 12, all rising from a large public plaza. The tower, top-heavy with a hypnotic grid of recessed windows, was a stark departure from the inventive yet largely delicate architecture of the midcentury, which by then had taken hold in the Hawaiian Islands. It was a landmark project for Honolulu, one that its boosters hoped would solidify the cityâs status as a hub for both commerce and culture. The consortium hired some of the periodâs best-known architects to design it, including Victor Gruen, who helped invent the indoor shopping mall, and Lawrence Halprin, the now legendary landscape architect who had just designed San Franciscoâs Ghirardelli Square.
Soon the concrete towers multiplied. The American Savings Bank Tower went up cattycorner to the Financial Plaza in 1972, sporting jagged vertical and horizontal ribs so sharp they threatened to cut careless passersby. The nearby Municipal Building (now named the Frank F. Fasi Municipal Building) was as smooth as the American Savings Bank Tower was rough. Resorts, airports, shopping centers, and university buildings all were designed in the Brutalist language. It showed up even in the unlikeliest places, like working-class Kalihi, where Japanese architect Sachio Otani designed a fortress-like dojo for a little-known religious sect called Tensho Kotai Jingu-kyo. By 1980, you could walk a half-mile in any direction from the Hawaiâi State Capitol and never be out of sight of at least one of these monolithic brutes.
From the beginning, however, Brutalism had its detractors. Ian Fleming so hated the style that he named the James Bond villain Goldfinger for the Brutalist architect ErnÅ Goldfinger. In Hollywood, the style became the go-to architecture of pop culture villainy. From Blade Runner to RoboCop , Brutalism became, in one criticâs words, the âbackdrop of evil.â
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Halekulani Living 124
CITY GUIDES
The irony is that Brutalism was born out of utopian idealism. The styleâs progenitorsâ Alison and Peter Smithson, Le Corbusier, Moshe Safdieâ shared a commitment to social welfare through architecture. In the United States, monolithic concrete architecture represented authenticity, honesty, strength. As Amanda Kolson Hurley wrote in Washington Post Magazine, architects of Brutalism were revolting against âthe previous generation and its cool, glassy modernism, which by that point had become the architectural language of the corporate world.â
âBeing monolithic meant eliminating applied surfaces, hung ceilings, sheetrockâeliminating everything except the concrete,â the architect Henry Cobb explained in an interview published in the 2015 book Heroic: Concrete Architecture and the New Boston . âWe were enchanted by the idea that once the concrete was poured, the building was essentially finished.â This fascination with concrete was partially practical. In the years after World War II, steel was prohibitively expensive, especially in Europe. The same characteristics that drew mainland designers to concreteâits economics, its authenticity, its expressivenessâswayed architects working in Hawaiâi. Unlike steel, which had to be imported, concrete could be made in the islands.
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Born out of post-World War II austerity, Brutalism was defined by bold, sculptural, monumental concrete forms.
Despite the use of terms like âmonolithic,â there is an almost obsessive attention to detail in Brutalist buildings. On some, the exposed concrete is intentionally chipped or broken; on others, it swirls with the patterns of its wooden forms. Architects like Joseph Farrell, an acolyte of Rudolphâs and arguably one of the masters of Hawaiâiâs tropical Brutalism, chose different sizes and colors of crushed local rock to echo the areaâs historic stone structures and evoke Hawaiâiâs beaches. What looks gray and lifeless from a distance becomes white and red and blue up close, an elemental architecture with a geologic patina. No architectural style thrown into the utterly unique milieu of Hawaiâi emerges unchanged. Soon Brutalism was metabolized into a more acceptable and appealing island aesthetic. Still wooed by concrete, architects found ways to soften their buildings to better fit Hawaiâiâs climate and culture. They ringed their buildings with coconut palms and hala trees, incorporated lava rock, and added concrete murals.
As ornamental and indigenous material found their way into Hawaiâiâs concrete buildings, the architecture became something else. A resort like the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel on Hawaiâi Islandâat the time the most expensive hotel in the worldâ was already anathema to the socialist ideals of Brutalismâs earliest champions. But in blending wood, steel, and tile with massive concrete forms, such buildings also said goodbye to the stylistic purity being pursued by people like Paul Rudolph. A sort of hybrid architecture emerged, something both tropical and Brutalist and distinctly of Hawaiâi. Not every building is a work of art, no more than every paint-splattered canvas is a masterpiece. But whether or not it is beloved today, Hawaiâiâs strain of Brutalism helped define the islands.
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128 Halekulani Living CITY GUIDES
CARTIER
For the relaunch of the Pasha de Cartier watch, Cartier brings together a unique cast: Rami Malek, Willow Smith, Troye Sivan, Maisie Williams, and Jackson Wang. Five multidisciplinary talents, five creative journeys, photographed by Craig McDean.
Originally created in 1985, the Pasha de Cartier watch captures the breadth of vision shared by this new generation of ambassadors, whose diverse and open-minded approaches to their crafts are redefining the codes of success. Their ambitions are as bold as the
Pasha de Cartier, an extroverted watch that steps outside of the box of classic watchmaking with ultra-contemporary features, including an interchangeable strap, oversized Arabic numerals, and a square filigree rail-track in the circle of its dial.
With its striking design and graphic nonconformity, the Pasha de Cartier watch is for those who pave new creative paths. Classic yet contemporary and as bold as ever.
Cartier
Ala Moana Center, Level 2
Call 808.955.5533 to book an appointment.
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Six filmmakers, whose recent projects paint gripping portraits of spiritual transcendence and âÄina, share inspirational settings for their work around Oâahu.
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âIâm really drawn to stones and feel a sense of spiritual power when Iâm around them,â says Bradley Tangonan, writer and director of the short film River of Small Gods. âThat, combined with the fact that Iâd been thinking a lot about what it takes to survive in the modern world, all came together to form the core of the film.â
When a construction injury leaves the filmâs protagonist without a livelihood or a roof over her head, she is driven to seeking odd jobs online and is hired by a local sculptor to remove stones from a sacred river. The Oâahu-born, New York City-based filmmaker chose not to single out a particular wahi pana (storied place) in the film, instead drawing inspiration for the filmâs titular river from spiritually charged places like Judd Memorial Trail, a one-mile loop that takes hikers across Nuâuanu Stream to a swimming hole, where Hawaiian royalty are said to have made a sport of mudsliding on ti leaves. âThe goal of the film was to communicate the feeling of encountering a spiritual presence in a place,â Tangonan says. âI get that feeling at Judd Trail.â
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PÄlolo Valley
âMy father and two grandfathers all passed away in quick succession about 10 years ago, so I spent a lot of time with people as they were passing on,â says filmmaker Christopher Makoto Yogi, whose paternal grandfather served as the basis for his upcoming feature film, I Was a Simple Man. âI remember one instance when my grandfather was talking to people who werenât there, calling out phrases in Japanese I didnât understand. At one point, he mistook me for my father, who had already passed away at that point. It was a surreal and terrifying experienceâlike his entire life was closing in around usâbut, in retrospect, quite beautiful and profound.â
In translating this experience into a supernatural account of a dying man haunted by apparitions from his past, Yogi relied on memories of the traditional plantation-style home his grandfather built in PÄlolo Valley. âThat was always the guiding lightâcapturing what it felt like to be a kid there, where everything felt magical, alive, and mysterious, almost like a Hayao Miyazaki film.â
Puâuloa (Pearl Harbor)
âGrowing up, I was never taught about the extensive history behind my home waters of Puâuloa, only what happened on December 7, 1941, and thereafter,â says Native Hawaiian filmmaker âÄina Paikai. âIn college, I was introduced to the idea of aloha âÄina, and it got me into researching the area so that I could finally answer questions like, âWhat was Ford Island called before it got the name Ford Island?â The name is Mokuâumeâume, and it was a rendezvous location where couples who were having trouble conceiving could go to play a sensual game called âumeâume. Knowing more about where Iâm from helped me with my identity issues as a suburban Hawaiian and gain the tools necessary for me to begin my journey into storytelling.â
It was this awakening of aloha âÄina that compelled Paikai to write, direct, and produce the upcoming short film Hawaiian Soul, which tells the story of Native Hawaiian activist and musician George Helm, an influential figure in the Hawaiian sovereignty movement of the 1970s. âHe used his talents as a charismatic performer to educate folks on Hawaiâiâs history, ultimately inspiring them to share his love for the land,â Paikai says.
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Still from Waikiki by Christopher Kahunahana
Still from I Was a Simple Man by Christopher Makoto Yogi
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Mauna âAla Royal Mausoleum
In Anela Lingâs Moâo!, the short film follows 10-year-old Mika as he helps his cousin, Kekoa, mourn the loss of his mother. Though it was a childhood ghost walk through âIolani Palace that informed the spiritual backbone of Lingâs film, its defining moment takes place at Mauna âAla Royal Mausoleum, the only remaining sovereign land in the islands and the final resting place of the Kingdom of Hawaiâiâs two ruling families.
âUpon passing through the gates of Mauna âAla, the characters make a literal and metaphysical âcrossing overâ to a new state of understanding,â Ling says. âThe groundskeeper, a seventh-generation kahu (caretaker), shared with us that previous film productions that attempted to film within the tomb itself had all their gear suddenly stop working. Thankfully, nothing like that happened during our shoot. We made an offering, gathered for a blessing, and everything went smoothly.â
Waikīkī
In the upcoming drama Waikiki, Native Hawaiian writer-director Christopher Kahunahana explores the dichotomy between culture and capital from the perspective of Kea, a woman juggling three jobs to make ends meet in Hawaiâi, exposing the harsh realities of modern life for many Native Hawaiians.
âThe name WaikÄ«kÄ«, Hawaiian for âspouting water,â refers to the natural springs that once were plentiful in the area,â Kahunahana says, noting that the main characterâs deteriorating state throughout the film parallels the demise of WaikÄ«kÄ«âs former wetlands. âThe wai, the water, that once gave life was paved over for development, changing the landscape forever, just as the displacement of Hawaiians from their ancestral land has had detrimental effects on their identity and well-being as a people to this day.â
KÄneâohe Bay
Mauka to Makai follows a day in the lives of cousins Akamu and Kaipo, born and raised in the residential community of KÄneâohe. âAkamu is the byproduct of a place removed from its history,â says the filmâs KÄneâohe-born writer and co-director Alika Maikau, who entrusted mainly non-professional actors from KÄneâohe to bring the story to life. âThe people he grew up around equate their Hawaiianness with how tough they are, so he embodies a certain machismo that he feels is necessary to his survival.â
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Despite their shared upbringing, the charactersâ paths diverge as they stop and survey the landscape stretched out before them, their figures dwarfed by the lush and imposing Koâolau mountain range. âThat pier on KÄneâohe Bay was the perfect place for Akamu to undergo a moment of self-reflection, acknowledging that he canât continue to live his life this way but, at the same time, he canât see any other path. Itâs the one scene that came the closest to what I had envisioned on the page, which is one of the most fulfilling things about filmmaking.â
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Halekulani, the most internationally acclaimed of all Hawaiâi hotels, blends serenity and understated elegance with exceptional service to create an oasis of tranquility.
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Halekulaniâs beachfront location has welcomed people since 1883, when the original owner, Robert Lewers, built a two-story house on the site of what is now the main building.
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The fishermen of the area would bring their canoes onto the beach in front of the property to rest. So welcomed were they by the Lewers family that the locals named the location âhouse befitting heaven,â or Halekulani.
In 1917, Juliet and Clifford Kimball purchased the hotel, expanded it, and established it as a stylish resort for vacationers, giving it the name the locals originally bestowed on it, Halekulani. The hotel was sold following the passing of the Kimballs in 1962. Almost 20 years later, it was purchased by what is now the Honolulu-based Halekulani Corporation. The hotel was closed and rebuilt as the existing 453-room property.
Today, Halekulaniâs staff, location, and hospitality reflect the original Hawaiian welcome that defined the property.
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HALEKULANI GUIDE 138
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DINING
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At
Halekulaniâs WaikÄ«kÄ« restaurants, awardwinning chefs create signature dishes from Hawaiâiâs freshest ingredients.
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Each of Halekulaniâs restaurants celebrates its own distinct style of cuisine, and all offer stunning views of the sea.
Select from La Mer for fine dining, Orchids for more casual elegance, or House Without A Key for a relaxed ambience.
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SPAHALEKULANI
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SpaHalekulani intertwines authentically crafted Polynesian therapeutic rituals with todayâs purest products and proven techniques, elevating the spa experience to be both immersive and rejuvenating.
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The award-winning spa is renowned for a commitment to harmoniously restoring the mind, body, and spirit of guests with a respite that is spiritual, cultural, and emotional.
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A HUI HOU 144 IMAGE COURTESY OF HALEKULANI