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In the true sense of nostalgia, a common theme for this year's collections, the design ers for Oscar de la Renta's Spring 2020 col lection wanted to go back to the Dominican roots of the fashion house. The runway was decorated with palm trees and fruit baskets, with colourful archways to depict the typical streets of the 90s Dominican streets. The out fits were vibrant and representative of the lo cal style with a modern twist, and it blended in perfectly with the runway.
Alessandro Michele went with the narrative of showing the guests how the 'show' is not just about the runway, but it is a result of what happens backstage as well. The runway was a 360 degree floor with the center stage being the el ements which are generally present backstage. The collection looked back on childhood with the perspective of menswear majorly, interpreting how the ste reotype of man is narrower and it gets freedom in childhood.
some designers use these elements as is in on the runway, some also include subtle references in their outfits thaL is not quite seen at first glance. For instance, Couture designer Yiging Yin incorporated a lot of elements of bondage in the whole SS16 collection that featured ele gant and unique pieces and elevated the bondage theme to a whole new class. Kim's latex dresses or the Kardashi ans choice ofBDSM inspired clothing like PVC shoes etc. undeniably makes them great ambassadors.
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urnerous have inspired the fash ion world's aesthetics and made references Lo em body them in its designs. Although it seems very un likely, the kink or BDSM communiL-y has influenced the fashion induslry by a great deal. For decades, the fetish subculture has been
an evolution with the rise people being more open and unapologetic when i L comes to sexu ality and freedom of ex pression, erasing the stig ma around these "taboo" topics. T here have been numerous brands that have incorporated subtle elements of the kink com111
renounced by socieL-y and muniL-y in their sartorial labelled as shameful. But choices. the past few years has seen
haute-couture collection of 2000 was a platform for the designer to explore sex and fetishism. Jean Paul Gautier did the same with Madonna's strap adorned corsets during her 1990 Blond Ambition vVorld Tour, while Mi chael Jackson per(ormed at the 1993 SuperBowl in a gold, military sL-yle har ness, marking the item's place in pop histo,T Po artists like Lady Gaga, KaL-y Perry and Beyonce have also been spotted wearing bondage clothin on numerous live shows. womenswear has had numerous sex-inspired gar ments over the years, mens wear has slowly started borrowing from kink culture with these items being embraced by a loL of straight male ce lebriLies, sometimes reducing it to a thoughtless commodity irrespective of i Ls bold queer roots. From latex and leather ) suits, to PVC heels, collars and harnesses, the entire taboo 1 , aesthetic is something that is extremely attractive and hyp ' notic for fashion. \,Ve have sb·ipped rancid connotalions assigned to fetish and changed them into a statement piece. Is Fetish fashion the raddest new trend to foUow? vVe'd
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TRAVEL The evolution of fashion over the years has been drastic as well as cyclic. Showcasing the contrasting yet alike trends of retro and futuristic times, Fushcia talks about fashion personified and its journey. Styled and concept by DURVANKA MURKUTE, MAHIMA MEHTA, NIKITHA BAIJU, ASHI JAIN Photographed by CHANDU LEANDRO
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FASHION enne Westwood and bands like the Sex Pistols, the punk movement was an aggressive reaction to the economic and political situation of the time. With dyed Mohawks, studded and spiked leather jackets, combat boots and body piercings, punks were everything the glamorous and decadent disco-loving mainstream was not. Punk clothing often had a ‘do it yourself’ quality. Safety pins replaced buttons or seams, and details like studs or spikes were added to pants and jackets by the wearer.
Fashion is essentially the most popular mode of expression. It has been and continues to be a reflection of society and current events and describes the ever-changing style of clothes worn by those with cultural status. A fashion trend occurs when others mimic or emulate this clothing style. Fashions vary greatly within a society over time, but also are affected by age, occupation, sexual orientation, location and social class. Trends usually begin in two ways; trickle up or trickle down. Today, a fashion trend starts with fashion designers, who design a spring and fall collection based on cues and inspiration they’ve gathered throughout the season. These cues can include popular culture, celebrities, music, politics, nature or something else entirely. This trend flow has been a tradition since the beginning of the fashion world. In the 1960s, fashion reflected the cultural and political upheaval of the time. The hippie and counterculture movement gave rise to accessories like Pocahontas-style headbands and medallions worn around the neck. Hippies wore long, loosely fitting clothing, often in natural fabrics. Hemlines rose as Mary Quant popularized the miniskirt and hot pants in her lines for JC Penney. And mod fashion, with brightly coloured space-age geometric patterns, shift dresses and coloured tights became the mainstream. Both miniskirts and mod-shift dresses were worn with knee-high go-go boots. Designers like Emilio Pucci revolutionized the era with his psychedelic fabric prints, and fashion icons like Jackie Onassis Kennedy were the picture of feminine class and sophistication. The 1960s were also influenced by the development of synthetic yarns, which gave way to fabrics like polyester, spandex and lycra, all of which are still used today. During the 1970s, the loose-fitting hippie clothes of the prior decade gave way to exotic fabrics and bell-bottom jeans for men and women. Hemlines continued to rise and hot pants continued their popularity, reflecting the flashy style of the decade. However, the 1970s also saw the popularity of a longer hemline, from mid-calf to ankle-length. Women wore peasant-style clothing, especially blouses with off-the-shoulder necklines and lace trim, with their jeans or skirts. Embroidered clothing became especially popular with this trend. Disco fashion emerged, featuring bright patterns and tightly fitting clothing meant to show off the body. Platform shoes elevated their wearer, male or female, anywhere from two to four inches or more. The carefree disco movement inspired its antithesis, the angry punk movement. Fueled by designers like Vivi
The 1980s saw another fashion upheaval. Angst-ridden punks wore Dr. Marten and steel-toed army boots, chains, tartan patterns, and bondage pants. Punks focused more on their hair during this period, dying, teasing and chopping their hair into asymmetric styles that seemed to defy gravity. Women—and men—experimented with heavy eyeliner in a variety of colours. Women wore neon colours, jelly shoes, tight jeans, leggings, leg warmers and oversized sweatshirts. Menswear-inspired looks also became popular for both sexes. Men wore ‘power suits,’ named so for their price, which made these suits a reflection of the wealth of the wearer. Women’s jackets featured big shoulder pads that made the shoulders appear higher and larger, similar to the male silhouette. Miniskirts were made in denim, leather and knit fabrics and were often worn over leggings. The movie flash dance popularized dancewear, ripped sweatshirts and leg warmers for daywear. And entertainer Madonna made exposed undergarments, fishnet stockings, gloves, and layers of beaded necklaces in vogue. Accessories for women were large, gaudy and brightly coloured. It became socially acceptable for cosmopolitan women to showcase their wealth through the value of their jewellery. Glasses and sunglasses with large, plastic frames were worn by both sexes. Other fashion trends included acid-washed jeans or parachute pants, jean jackets, polo shirts with the collar up, high-top shoes, and baggy blazers with the sleeves rolled up. And throughout the 1980s, athletic shoes became increasingly prized, rising in price as well as popularity. 1990’s fashion was far more subdued than the garish, wild styles of the 1980s. Bands like Nirvana influenced the grunge look, which featured rock-concert tee shirts under plaid flannel shirts, jeans and long, greasy hair. Overalls were worn by both sexes, either with one or both shoulder straps unhooked. The punk style of the 1870s and 1980s evolved into the goth fashion trend, which featured black clothing, black boots and studded bracelets in the style of bands like Nine Inch Nails and Marilyn Manson. The neon colours of the 1980s gave way to hyper colour clothing, which changed colours according to the temperature. And the big hair so omnipresent in the 1980s completely changed a decade later, with long, straight hair achieving mass popularity. Women wore spaghetti-strap slip dresses over tee shirts as well as baby doll dresses, especially with thigh-high stockings. Navel piercings became popular with women, which coincided with the emergence of belly shirts that exposed the midriff. Chunky platform shoes were all the rage, with layers IA MARCH 2020 87 FU
T-shirt, Shein. Jeans, Shein. Fanny Pack, Shein.Shoes, Vans. Jewellery, Ayesha.
Sweat T-shirt, Shein. Dress, Shein. Heels, Shein. Socks, Happy Socks. Eyewear, Ayesha. Jewellery, Pipa Bella.
of rubber soles that made the wearer look taller. Jeans became baggier as hip-hop emerged onto the music scene, often in brightly dyed colours like red or green. And men began to sag their pants, wearing their pants baggy and below the hips or rear. Trend revival is a cyclic process; inspirations from the past are coming back in style in 2020. Time to find your stacked heels so you can rock flare pants in 2020. Tuck in your top and wear a heel that will give this ‘70s trend justice. It’s true, tie-dye isn’t going anywhere for 2020. Bring this summer favourite to the winter months by reaching for black-tinted versions of the bright trend. Whether you’re dressing for winter, spring, or summer, ‘90s-style platform shoes will be in rotation for all of 2020. The dramatic puffy sleeves are a fashion trend you won’t be able to escape. To avoid looking costume-y try a smaller sleeve and stick with subdued colours. A slim pant will balance out this retro trend. Pearls, pearls and more pearls. Update your neck game with an elevated version of the VSCO girl favourite cowrie shell necklace. This trend looks great stacked with other chains. Bra tops are a going to have a big moment this year. To make the style feel wearable, opt for a long-line version and style it up with your fav jeans or denim skirt. Sometimes you just need to keep it simple. This micro trend holds your phone, lipstick and a credit card. Plus, mini bags are playful and an easy way to wear colour if you usually steer clear. One of the biggest fashion trends for 2020 is crochet. And, no – not like your grandmother’s couch. This new take is modern, with bright fun colours. If you want to make a statement in 2020, try a feminine and flirty fringe skirt. This fringe is less cowgirl, claiming more of a vintage vibe. To keep the feeling of ‘oh I just threw this on,’ pair it with an oversized knit and flats. A colour block pullover is the trend that lets you wear the entire rainbow at once. Just throw on one statement piece and all you have to do is accessorise (neutrals are always best). Bermuda shorts were big last summer and will stay in rotation for all of 2020. You really can’t go wrong with styling this early ‘00s trend. Pair them with a blazer and sneakers for fall or a bodysuit come summer. This is the year to embrace neon. Don’t be afraid of the highlighter hue, but if you are, wear a simple accessory in lime green of electric pink. Polka were all over the spring 2020 runway in a big way. This classic print was made to be worn with a pair of high-waisted jeans. The timeless white button-down is having a moment. Swap out your traditional length for a cropped version and pair with plaid bottoms and sneakers for a laid-back look.
It’s fun to think about just what the fashion trends of the future are going to look like too. One of the things we can predict from both fashion and changing attitudes today is that we’re probably going to see a more androgynous look favoured in the next decade or so. This is something we’ve definitely seen before, both on the catwalks and in high street fashion. Think of the 1980s, for example - or look it up if you’re unsure. There’s plenty of androgyny creeping into fashion today, already. Many women like to wear comfy, loose-fitting clothes that might previously have only existed in the men’s section. And men are willing to try a more feminine touch too, from bags and flowery shirts to skirts. Virtual and augmented reality have both made an appearance over the last few years. They’re used for fun and games, as well as for some more serious applications too. They could soon be used to help you look your best too. Amazon has patented a design for a mirror that could allow you to superimpose virtual clothes on yourself, as well as change backgrounds so you can match your outfit to any environment. With everyone thinking more about the environment, as well as treating their fellow humans better, we could be looking at greener fashion in the future. Currently, it can be pretty difficult to find out about how and even where big name fashion brands make their clothes and accessories. Many companies aren’t big on transparency, which can make it hard to see how ethical they are. More fashion brands will be meeting a demand for sustainable, ethical fashion in just a few short years. People want clothes made from sustainable materials that will last a long time to reduce waste. They also want to know that the people making their clothes are working in good conditions and earning enough. So, your clothes might be able to change colour in the future, but what if they could change shape? There are some people trying to see if we might be able to change the shape and fit of our clothes in the near future, so we can adjust them for different occasions. This would involve some fairly complicated science and some specially woven fabrics so that you would be able to change the sleeve or hem length of a garment, or perhaps adjust its drape. If you want something close to that now, you could always look for items that you can wear in a number of different ways. History has shown us that fashion has evolved, inspired, motivated ad expressed one’s emotions and it will continue to do so in the coming years; with different trends and technology.
TIME TRAVEL Even though we sometimes revisit the trends of the past, fashion is also about looking forward. The styles which will trend 10 and 20 years down the line will be different yet an inspiration from the past. Wearable technology has become pretty popular in the last few years. Some products, like FitBit fitness trackers and Apple Watches, have become very popular. One of the things that many people are beginning to note is that wearable tech isn’t always the most fashionable, and often isn’t particularly feminine. For example, Fitbit, one of the leading fitness tracker brands, has the Luxe Collection, so you can turn your Fitbit Flex 2 into a pendant or bangle. IA MARCH 2020 92 FU
-Durvanka Murkute & Mahima Mehta
Jacket, The Source. Black Pant, The Source. Golden Shoes, The Source.
Bralette, The Source. Skirt, The Source. Heels, The Source. Eyewear, The Source. Bag, Aldo.
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Gucci Wool Beret with GG patch ₹ 21,110
BLUE
BOTTEGA VENETA Intrecciato leather card holder ₹ 16,120
Manolo Blahnik JOYE strappy sandals ₹ 1,29,482
Bottega Veneta The Original 04 Sunglasses ₹ 31,755
SHOES & ACCESSORIES
Maison Margiela Blue Tabi Boots ₹ 49,076
Louis Vuitton Dauphine reversible belt ₹ 44,176
Ralph and Russo Slingback classic heel ₹92,487
Balenciaga Triple S clear sole sneakers ₹ 64,633
COACH Wireless Earbud Case Bag Charm With Rexy ₹ 5,143
Boucheron Héra Peacock Ring Price on Request
Piaget Azzuro Bisazza Necklace Price on Request
Tiffany Engagement Ring ₹ 3,10,331
Hublot Ceramic Big Bang Unico Blue Magic Watch ₹14,21,749
The Pantone colour of the year for 2020 seemed to strike a chord with the designers this year. Jewelry collections, shoes and other accessories were dominated by this shade of clashind the colour, these accessories and footwear are going to add to the the retro-futurism that is in trend, meanwhile remaining an evergreen piece in your wardrobe. - Nikitha Baiju
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