Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review June 2025

Page 1


Volume 52 | Number 6

www.pharmacos.co.za

6 News

Award strengthens Symrise’s leadership in sustainable cosmetics

Givaudan unveils new fragrance design tool

UPM Raflatac publishes 2024 Climate Review

10 Male Grooming

Explore the evolution beyond beards and blades

Why local ingredients are winning male consumers

14 Actives & Functional Ingredients

Postbiotics and plant extracts for modern cosmetics

Enhance longevity with nature’s microscopic messengers

20 Women’s Health

Dr. Paul Lohmann’s minerals: the key to women’s wellness

Cutting-edge biopolymer elevates femininity

Holistic solutions from Brenntag SA for female vitality

Supporting women through every life stage

28 Industry Talk

Explore key findings from the Spate Ingredient Trends Report

30

Pharmaceutical Focus

Case study: Why Klocke Pharma-Service trusts Romaco’s Ventilus technology

32

Association News

Highlights from Coschem’s JHB Suppliers Day

SAAFFI-Wits Flavour & Fragrance Technology Course 2024 Graduation

Innovations to warm up to this winter

As the winter chill settles over South Africa, bringing with it early sunsets and frosty mornings, there’s no better time to curl up with a steaming cuppa and your copy of Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review. Our June edition arrives with a warming blend of industry insights to keep you inspired as the temperatures drop.

This month, we look at the evolving landscape of women’s wellness, where personalisation and science-backed solutions are transforming the market. From Arjuna Natural's clinically validated ingredients addressing stress and hormonal balance to Savannah Fine Chemicals' innovative solutions for women's health across different life stages – the industry is embracing a more holistic approach.

For those keeping an eye on emerging consumer trends, our feature on South Africa's male grooming market reveals fascinating growth, with local men increasingly seeking products with indigenous ingredients like baobab and buchu extract. With the market valued at R14.4 billion and growing, it's clear that men are taking self-care seriously.

In our feature on actives and functional ingredients, Sabinsa highlights how natural alternatives like Babchiol™ (a plant-based retinol alternative) are revolutionising formulations. We also bring you CODIF’s first blue exosomes developed for the cosmetic industry. These exosomes are said to contain an impressive number of identified proteins to meet longevity needs in skincare.

South Africa’s personal care and pharma industries continue to blaze with creativity and purpose, addressing real consumer needs while respecting the planet. As you huddle against the winter chill, I hope you will be inspired by the innovations featured in Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review

Stay warm and enjoy the read.

The team

EDITORIAL

EDITOR: Abby Vorster +27 (0)71 359 4519

abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za

LAYOUT & DESIGN: Andipha Nkoloti

COVER IMAGE: gettyimages

CONTRIBUTOR: Josef Brändlin

ADVERTISING

KEY ACCOUNT MANAGER: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060

carla.melless@newmedia.co.za

INTERNATIONAL SALES

Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de

Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com

Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk

CIRCULATION

CIRCULATION MANAGER: Felicity Garbers felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za

PUBLISHING TEAM

GENERAL MANAGER: Dev Naidoo

PRODUCTION CONTROLLER: Mandy Ackerman

ART DIRECTOR: David Kyslinger

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

Building 13, The Woodlands Office Park, 20 Woodlands Drive, Woodmead, Sandton PO Box 784698, Sandton 2146

Tel: +27 (0)11 713 9000

POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published by Media24 (PTY) Ltd

New BOPP packaging manufacturing line for Cosmo First

A global leader in films for packaging, lamination, labelling and synthetic paper, Cosmo First announces the successful commissioning of new biaxially oriented polypropylene (BOPP) Film Line at its existing manufacturing plant located at Aurangabad, Maharashtra.

The new line boasts an annual rated capacity of 81 200MT with the world’s most advanced technology. With the commissioning of the new line, Cosmo First annual BOPP capacity will increase by approximately 40% to 2.77 000MT.

For the last six years, speciality sales at Cosmo First have been growing at a CAGR of 10%. The new BOPP Line will support the company in further expanding its product portfolio across speciality films and packaging. It plans to further strengthen its speciality films product portfolio with several new products in the pipeline, expected to be launched in the upcoming quarters.

Speaking on the development, Pankaj Poddar, group CEO, Cosmo First, comments: “We expect the line to get filled fast due to a current favourable gap in demand and supply in the domestic industry. The new BOPP film line shall be eligible for state govt incentives beside being the most cost-efficient line in India. The company’s focus will be on leveraging the new investments to the full, including the BOPP line, growing its specialty film sales.”

Award strengthens Symrise’s leadership in sustainable cosmetics

Symrise has received the prestigious Embrace Natura Award in the Commitment to Life category. Representatives from the company received the award in the presence of João Paulo Ferreira, CEO of Natura.

This accolade recognises Symrise’s outstanding achievement in sustainable innovation. It mentions the groundbreaking cosmetic ingredient, Hydrolite® 5 green, which is derived from three certified natural byproducts – sugarcane bagasse, corncobs and wood pulp –using an innovative upcycling process.

The Embrace Natura Award for Symrise’s leadership in sustainable cosmetics embodies significant industry recognition by one of the three most sustainable companies globally, according to GlobeScan.

“The award celebrates our leadership in sustainable innovation and strengthens our position as a unique company of reference. It also reinforces our Gold status in the Regenerative Alliance Program,” says Josy Hatada, vice president LATAM cosmetic ingredients.

" The award celebrates our leadership in sustainable innovation"

Hydrolite® 5 green exemplifies Symrise’s commitment to responsible innovation by transforming agricultural side streams into high-value, multifunctional ingredients.

According to the jury, the ingredient stands out for its substantial environmental benefits. Developed in a solvent-free, patented process, it contributes significantly to carbon footprint reduction by avoiding over 202 tons of CO₂ emissions annually. The energy-efficient production process does not require heating or cooling, lowering energy consumption.

“This award underscores our dedication to sustainability and innovation,” says Penelope Uiehara, global account director for fine fragrance. “At Natura, all decisions regarding new products are guided by the triple bottom line – considering social, environmental, and economic impacts – with carbon reduction being a priority throughout the entire innovation pipeline. Hydrolite® 5 green stands as a clear testament to our shared commitment to advancing green chemistry principles and upcycling agricultural by-products into premium, sustainable ingredients.”

Hatada adds: “As ONE Symrise team, we feel honoured by this recognition. Our strategic partnership with Natura has been instrumental in aligning our projects with Natura’s sustainability vision. We appreciate the exchange with the CEO of Natura and look forward to igniting future conversations around our Amazon 360 platform, leveraging by-products from Tukumã, Açaí and Murumuru. In this way, we can advance our shared vision for regenerative innovation and responsible sourcing.”

The Symrise team with Natura CEO, João Paulo Ferreira
New BOPP line commissioning at Cosmo First

Givaudan unveils a new fragrance design tool

A global leader in fragrance and beauty, Givaudan is proud to introduce ChériScentz™. This new technology empowers perfumers to create scents that evoke sensuality in their creations.

Aligning with Givaudan’s commitment to enhance emotional connections through perfume, ChériScentz™ will allow consumers to embrace their sensuality in day-to-day life. Thanks to company’s leadership and expertise, this groundbreaking fragrance design aid complements its already extensive range of Neuroscience technology innovations. These include:

• MoodScentz+™

• VivaScentz™

• DreamScentz™.

guarantees high discrimination, quality results, and consumer relevance across diverse markets”.

Jeremy Compton, global head of science and technology – fragrances, adds: “Givaudan’s Health and Wellbeing Centre of Excellence has played a crucial role in developing this patent-pending algorithm. This innovative tool was conceived in Brazil. It harnesses advanced research derived from global consumer studies. The tool is evaluated using G-Evocations™, which is a specialised method that assesses fragrance sensuality through visual stimuli. The approach

As consumer preferences evolve, there is a growing demand for smells that reflect authenticity, inclusivity, and emotional connections. ChériScentz™ enables perfumers to create scents that are not only appealing but also resonate with the multifaceted nature of modern sensuality. This includes expanding fragrance offerings beyond fine fragrances to other product categories for bath, body, laundry, and home.

UPM Raflatac makes a sustainability impact

UPM Raflatac and its partners are driving climate action in three focus areas: forests and land, emission reductions, and products and services. In its 2024 Climate Review, the company highlights its significant progress as a global partner for sustainable material solutions.

Reducing the use of fossil fuels is the most important way to mitigate climate change and this remains a core focus for UPM Raflatac. Last year, it achieved a 55% reduction in its Scope 1 & 2 emission intensity compared to a 2015 baseline year. Notably, three of the company’s factories, located in China, Malaysia and Finland, implemented renewable or CO ₂-free electricity contracts, which cover most of their power usage. This development is enabling significant progress towards the 65% reduction target by 2030.

UPM Raflatac also continued its efforts to reduce its Scope 3 emission intensity related to raw materials and transportation. To reach a 30% reduction by 2030 compared to a 2018 baseline, the company aims to focus further on value chain collaboration and product development.

A total of 100% of UPM Raflatac’s purchased paper materials were certified under a credible third-party forest certification scheme. This 2030 target was reached six years in advance by the end of 2023, a major achievement that demonstrates the company’s sustainability leadership and ambition. Beyond certified papers, the company strives to achieve its 2030 goal of 100%

traceability of other bio-based materials, with progress in 2024 reaching 81%. As the demand for renewable solutions grows, so too does the need to ensure the sustainable origin of bio-based raw materials.

To help customers make more sustainable material choices, UPM Raflatac launched several new product and service innovations. These include the Carbon Action plastic films portfolio, designed to support the packaging value chain in reducing carbon footprint and enhancing recyclability.

In a first for the labelling industry, it has integrated product footprints directly into customer quotes. The footprints, generated by the externally validated LCA service, UPM Label Life, provide actionable data-driven insights to support purchasing decisions for customers.

In addition, the UPM RafCycle™ recycling service received a certificate of validity from DEKRA for its CO ₂ impact assessments. This noteworthy achievement offers customers increased assurance for their contributions to label waste recycling.

Explore the full 2024 Climate Review here: www.upmraflatac.com /ebook/climate-review-2024/

UPM Raflatac’s label solutions not only secure your packaging’s performance but also bring better functionality to your supply chain
(Image: UPM Raflatac)

Diary

2025 SUBSCRIPTION FORM

to:

Media24 (Pty) Ltd

PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Emailfelicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za

(please tick)1 YEAR2

analytica Lab Africa 8 to 10 July

Midrand, Gauteng analytica-africa.com

Cosmoprof North America 15 to 17 July Las Vegas, USA cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

Coschem KZN Supplier Day 23 July

KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa www.coschem.co.za

KZN Coschem Day 7 August

KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa www.coschem.co.za

CPHI Korea 26 to 28 August Seoul, South Korea www.cphi.com/korea/en/home

Professional Beauty South Africa

31 August to 1 September Gauteng, South Africa www.probeauty.co.za/johannesburg-expo/

Propak West Africa 9 to 11 September Lagos, Nigeria www.propakwestafrica.com

Coschem Scientific Conference & Gala Dinner 10 to 11 September

Joburg, South Africa www.coschem.co.za July

printers and converters of shrink sleeves & flexible packaging

Through an innovative and out of the box approach to our clients’ needs, we are not only willing, but also able to provide practical and efficient cost-saving solutions to most printing and packaging challenges. A pioneering narrow web flexographic printer, ISW specializes in, while not confined to, the manufacturing of highly decorative and complex shrink sleeves, self-adhesive and wraparound labels, and various forms of flexible packaging. By working closely with local and international suppliers, and utilising specially developed in-house processes a multitude of innovative finishes including the likes of thermochromic, glow in the dark, domed, holographic and high lustre metallics along with specialised multi-perforation solutions for promotional items are achieved.

With the manufacturing plant consisting of 10-colour and eight-colour MPS EPW560’s and a full complement of the latest offerings in finishing equipment for the conversion and inspection of our products, ISW maintains the highest level of quality and is one of only a handful of narrow web printers capable of producing wide lay flat shrink sleeves, achieving a L/F of 276mm from a printed web width of 575mm. By offering assistance and advice with every step from concept to design, production and application; we are there to ensure our clients achieve their desired vision efficiently, affordably and consistently.

Men’s grooming has come a long way, from the rough and rugged practices of ancient times to today’s much more refined self-care routines.

“While the tools and techniques have evolved, the underlying goal has remained the same: to look and feel presentable,” explains Themba Ndlovu from Clere For Men.

THE CAVEMAN APPROACH

Early humans had little time for grooming, focusing instead on survival. Facial hair was left to grow wild, and bathing was a rare luxury. Any attempts at grooming during prehistoric times were likely for practical reasons, keeping hair out of the face and eyes while hunting, rather than for aesthetic appeal.

THE RISE OF GROOMING RITUALS

Egyptian noblemen and Pharaohs placed great emphasis on cleanliness and appearance. They shaved their heads and beards, used natural oils to condition their skin, and applied scented balms. Grooming wasn’t only about hygiene in ancient Egyptian times but also a symbol of status and refinement.

THE SOCIAL ASPECT OF GROOMING

Greek and Roman men embraced grooming as part of their daily routines. Public baths were central to social life, and men used oils, scrapers, and early razors to maintain a polished look. Beards were a mark of wisdom

An evolution beyond beards and blades

From the utilitarian practices of our prehistoric ancestors to the sophisticated skincare rituals of today, men’s grooming has undergone a profound transformation across civilizations. This journey not only reflects changing aesthetic preferences, but the evolution of masculinity itself – where self-care has become a powerful expression of men’s confidence and modern identity.

in Greece, while Romans preferred a cleanshaven appearance, reflecting discipline and order.

A STEP BACKWARDS IN THE MIDDLE AGES

Grooming took a backseat during medieval times, with beards and long hair seen as symbols of masculinity and strength. Bathing was infrequent, and personal hygiene was not a priority. However, scented containers were used to mask unpleasant odours, offering a basic form of fragrance.

"Grooming is no longer seen as purely functional – it is about self-care and confidence"

REFINEMENT AND GROOMING STANDARDS

The 18 th Century saw men embracing wigs and powdered hair, signifying wealth and status. However, during the 19th Century, men’s grooming shifted toward a more natural look, with neatly groomed facial hair and the use of wax to style hair.

THE MOVE TO MODERN GROOMING

With the invention of the safety razor, the clean-shaven look became popular, particularly in the early 1900s. The 1950s introduced a more polished style, while the 1970s and 1980s saw an era of experimentation with longer hair, moustaches, and sideburns.

BALANCING TRADITION AND INNOVATION

Today, men’s grooming is more sophisticated than ever. Skincare is now a key part of daily routines, with moisturisers, cleansers and beard-care products widely available. Grooming is no longer seen as purely functional – it is about self-care and confidence.

As Ndlovu explains: “A well-rounded grooming routine includes proper hydration. The new Clere For Men Smooth lotion and crème comprises a blend of Vitamin B3 and Marula offering a comprehensive range of benefits men prioritise in their skincare routine. From moisturisation to nourishment, a fresh skin feels to a captivating fragrance, and achieving an even skin tone, Clere For Men Smooth delivers it all in one smooth offering.”

Whether opting for a clean-shaven look or a well-maintained beard, skincare plays a crucial role in modern grooming for men. •

Clere For Men – clere.co.za

Natural attraction: why local ingredients are winning male consumers

South African men are redefining traditional grooming habits, embracing comprehensive skincare routines. They are also seeking products with natural, locally sourced ingredients. The local men's grooming market showed robust growth, reaching R14.4 billion in value with a CAGR of 10% in 2024, according to data analytics company Euromonitor International.

Post-pandemic shifts have sparked a revolution in men’s grooming habits across South Africa. Face masks, particularly sheet and peel-off varieties, have gained significant popularity as men look to address specific concerns like razor bumps, sunburn, and dark circles.

Local salons like Sorbet Man have capitalised on this trend by introducing specialised grooming services and branded skincare products tailored to South African men’s needs.

According to data from Euromonitor International, men are increasingly incorporating targeted skincare solutions into their daily routines. Products seeing the strongest uptake are those that address specific skin conditions while highlighting natural ingredients.

" South African male consumers

HOW TO WIN CONSUMER TRUST

Products featuring indigenous African ingredients have captured the attention of South African male consumers. Baobab extract, aloe vera, and buchu extract are particularly sought-after, as they’re often perceived as safe and effective. This preference for natural formulations has prompted local and international brands to reformulate existing products and develop new lines specifically for the South African market.

grooming market, growing by 9% in current terms in 2023 to reach R5.1 billion. This category maintained strong momentum throughout 2024.

Local brand African Extracts has successfully entered the men’s grooming space with products featuring natural ingredients that resonate with local consumers. Their comprehensive bundles that include facial scrubs, moisturisers and face washes are particularly popular among value-conscious shoppers.

AT-HOME GROOMING BOOM

The pandemic accelerated the shift towards DIY grooming solutions, with many South African men establishing at-home routines that have persisted beyond lockdown periods. This has presented significant opportunities for brands offering comprehensive grooming kits that simplify the grooming process while delivering professional results.

Men’s fragrances follow closely behind, showing resilience with 1.8% growth in 2022/23, with further growth of 7.8% in 2023/24. Meanwhile, the men’s shaving segment experienced a contraction of 4.4% in 2022/23 and recovered with modest growth of 1.4% in 2024.

BRAND LOYALTY AND VALUE PROPOSITION

South African male consumers demonstrate strong brand loyalty, often purchasing complete product ranges from trusted manufacturers. Bundled skincare solutions are particularly appealing as they ensure complementarity between products while offering perceived value for money – a crucial factor in the current economic climate.

Men typically remain loyal to brands they trust and are inclined to buy products from a full range or in bundles. This presents opportunities for brands to expand their portfolios with complementary offerings.

As the market continues to evolve, brands that understand the unique needs of South African men – combining efficacy, natural ingredients and value – will be best positioned to capture market share in this dynamic and growing segment. •

Over 65% of South African male consumers research grooming products online before purchasing, making digital marketing increasingly critical for brands in this category.

Source: Euromonitor International

Postbiotics and plant extracts for modern cosmetics

Advances in biotechnology, a shift to natural alternatives, and an enhanced understanding of the skin’s microbiome are driving changes in the personal care industry. In response, industry leaders are offering innovative ingredients that cater to the growing demand for clean, effective and sustainable solutions.

The future of personal care lies in solutions that combine efficacy with environmental responsibility. With strategic alliances across the USA, Europe, Japan, Australia and the Middle East, Sabinsa is at the forefront of industry developments, driving global innovation in skincare and personal care. Today’s consumers are increasingly seeking skincare products that deliver the performance of synthetic ingredients but with cleaner, safer profiles. As a result, the demand for natural alternatives that align with clean beauty principles has surged. In this article, we explore several natural alternatives to synthetic ingredients produced by Sabinsa.

A RETINOL ALTERNATIVE

Babchiol™ (99% bakuchiol) is a plantbased alternative to retinol. This natural compound delivers similar rejuvenating benefits as retinol, like stimulating collagen production, without the common side effects of irritation, dryness, and increased photosensitivity. Studies have demonstrated that Sabinsa’s Babchiol™ excels in several key areas, including:

• Superior antioxidant activity

• Better UVB protection, 40% protection at lower concentrations (compared to retinol’s 16%)

• Enhanced anti-elasticity and antityrosinase activity reducing skin ageing and hyperpigmentation. Babchiol™ is also non-phototoxic, making it a safe option for daytime use in skincare formulations.

THE POWER OF AMLA

Derived from Indian gooseberry ( Emblica officinalis ), Saberry® is a natural ingredient standardised to contain 10% β -glucogallin. This is a potent antioxidant known for its broad range of skin health benefits. It effectively neutralises free radicals, helping to prevent oxidative stress and premature ageing. Saberry® also inhibits collagenase, an enzyme that breaks down collagen, thereby supporting skin firmness and reducing wrinkle formation.

"Saberry® offers in vitro protection against UVB radiation"

In addition to its properties of skin longevity, Saberry® offers in vitro protection against UVB radiation, shielding skin cells from sun-induced damage. It also helps inhibit melanin production, which can lighten hyperpigmentation and reduce the appearance of dark spots following UV exposure. These benefits make it a comprehensive solution for maintaining healthy, youthful-looking skin.1

SKIN MICROBIOME AND BARRIER SUPPORT

A healthy skin microbiome is essential for maintaining barrier function and overall healthy skin. Emerging ingredients designed to support the microbiome are becoming integral to skincare formulations. These ingredients help maintain microbial balance, protect skin from pathogens and enhance resilience.

Figure 2: Results of the LactoSporin® and benzoyl peroxide comparison study (a) Redness (Hb-index – % hemoglobin hyper-concentration) in the inflammatory response. (b) Elevation (small) in the inflammatory response. (c) Elevation (medium) in the inflammatory response. (d) Antera Images Participant No. 21 –benzoyl peroxide: (i) redness, (ii) small elevation and (iii) medium elevation. (e) Antera Images Participant No.47 – LactoSporin® (i) redness, (ii) small elevation and (iii) medium elevation

LactoSporin® is a postbiotic derived from the fermentation of Bacillus coagulans . It is known for its antimicrobial properties that inhibit the growth of harmful bacteria on the skin, thereby reducing the risk of infection and promoting a healthier skin microbiome. It also provides skin-conditioning benefits, helping to maintain skin’s natural barrier and improve its overall texture and appearance. By supporting barrier function, LactoSporin® helps protect against environmental stressors. It also helps to retain moisture, leading to healthier, more resilient skin.

Clinical studies have demonstrated the efficacy of LactoSporin®. A study involving

56 healthy female volunteers showed significant improvements in skin elasticity, hydration, and reduction in the visibility of wrinkles around the crow’s feet and nasolabial folds, as well as frown lines and facial fine lines after 10 weeks of using a 2% LactoSporin® cream. 2

Another study comparing LactoSporin® to benzoyl peroxide in 64 subjects with mild-to-moderate acne found that LactoSporin® significantly reduced oiliness, pimples, acne spots and redness without causing skin irritation. Antera analysis was conducted to evaluate the effects of LactoSporin® on skin inflammatory responses on days 0, 3, 7, 14 and 21 of application. 3 See figure 2 for study results.

A NEW FRONTIER IN SKINCARE

The proactive approach of preventing signs of ageing before they appear, also known as prejuvenation, is gaining traction. In response, ingredients are being developed to help consumers delay the onset of signs of ageing while promoting skin health.

SabiWhite® from Sabinsa Corporation is a turmeric-derived extract containing 95% tetrahydrocurcumin. This colourless powder provides antioxidant protection, inhibits melanogenesis, and slows the formation of AGEs, making it ideal for skin brightening and supporting long-term skin health. Clinical studies have shown that SabiWhite® inhibits AGE formation by 91.2% at concentrations up to 100μg/ml

PEPTIDES AND BIOTECH INNOVATIONS

Peptides have emerged as a cornerstone in skincare due to their ability to stimulate collagen production, strengthen the barrier, and enhance overall skin health. Recent developments in peptide-based ingredients – powered by biotechnology – are pushing the boundaries of skincare innovation.

PeptiSeLect® is a selenium-enriched peptide that promotes hair growth and helps prevent hair loss. By linking L-selenomethionine with L-glutamic acid, this naturally occurring peptide enhances the production of vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), a key protein that stimulates the formation of new blood vessels (angiogenesis). Increased VEGF supports better nutrient and oxygen delivery to hair follicles, promoting healthier and more robust hair growth.

Additionally, PeptiSeLect® inhibits the 5-alpha reductase enzyme, which plays a critical role in hair loss, particularly in androgenic alopecia. This enzyme converts testosterone into dihydrotestosterone, which is a hormone that can shrink hair follicles and shorten the hair growth cycle. By blocking 5-alpha reductase activity, PeptiSeLect® helps prevent follicle miniaturisation, reducing hair thinning and promoting hair regeneration. As a result, this peptide supports scalp health, encourages hair regeneration, and reduces hair fall, making it a promising solution for those seeking to improve hair density and vitality. •

Did you know?

The future of beauty is where nature meets science. With powerful botanicals, biotech breakthroughs, and microbiome-friendly innovations, skincare is redefining radiance, sustainably and effectively.

REFERENCES:

1. Majeed, M., Bhat, B., & Susmitha, T. (2010). Inhibition of UV induced adversaries by β-glucogallin from Amla (Emblica officinalis Gaertn.) fruits. Indian Journal of Natural Products and Resources, 1(4), 462-465.

2. Majeed, M., Nagabhushanam, K., Paulose, S., Rajalakshmi, H. R., & Mundkur, L. (2023). A Randomized Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Study to Evaluate the Anti-Skin-Aging Effect of LactoSporin - The Extracellular Metabolite from Bacillus coagulans (Weizmannia coagulans) MTCC 5856 in Healthy Female Volunteers. Clinical, cosmetic and investigational dermatology, 16, 769–782. https://doi.org/10.2147/ CCID.S403418

3. Majeed, M., Majeed, S., Nagabhushanam, K., Mundkur, L., Rajalakshmi, H. R., Shah, K., & Beede, K. (2020). Novel Topical Application of a Postbiotic, LactoSporin®, in Mild to Moderate Acne: A Randomized, Comparative Clinical Study to Evaluate its Efficacy, Tolerability and Safety. Cosmetics, 7(3), 70. https://doi.org/10.3390/ cosmetics7030070

Sabinsa – sabinsa.com

Compliant Spectroscopic Solutions for Regulated Pharmaceutical Industries

Today´s regulated pharmaceutical laboratories must comply with extensive regulatory requirements. Bruker offers together with its high-end FT-IR, FT-NIR and Raman spectrometer line comprehensive system validation tools to achieve systematic and cost-effective compliance.

 Instrument Qualification according to USP, PhEur, JP

 Internal Validation Unit (IVU) for automated OQ & PQ

 Full 21 CRF part 11 support for Data Security, Integrity, Traceability

 ALPHA II - Compact and Reliable FT-IR Spectroscopy

State-of-the-Art FT-IR spectrometers should be effi cient and straightforward above all else. The ALPHA II follows this approach and makes FT-IR analysis easier than ever before. The user can swiftly exchange Bruker’s versatile QuickSnap™ sampling modules to ideally fi t the device to almost any kind of sample (e.g. solids, liquids and gases).

 BRAVO - Handheld Raman Spectrometer

BRAVO mitigates fluorescence (SSE™), addresses a large spectral range (Duo LASER™) including CH stretching region and is a class 1M Laser product. The intuitive and guide workflow gives the ability for Raman spectroscopy into everybody’s hands

LUMOS II - Fully Automated Stand-Alone FT-IR Microscope

LUMOS II provides best performance for visual inspection and infrared spectral analysis of micro samples with highest comfort in use.

TANGO - The Next Generation of FT-NIR Spectrometer

Faster, simpler, more secure - with TANGO your NIR analysis speeds up. TANGO has exactly what users require of an FT-NIR spectrometer suitable for industrial use: robustness, high precision and straightforward operator guidance.

Bruker South Africa (Pty) Ltd Unit A-A001-G

Contact us for more details: www.bruker.com/optics info.za@bruker.com

Ground Floor, Lincolnwood Office Park Woodlands Drive, Woodmead Johannesburg 2191 Tel: +27 11 463-6040

FT-IR, FT-NIR, RAMAN

Enhance longevity with nature’s microscopic messengers

Vantage Specialty Chemicals is promoting the first blue exosomes developed for the cosmetic industry. Produced by CODIF, they contain an impressive number of identified proteins to meet longevity needs in skincare.

Phormiskin Bioprotech (INCI:

Glycerine (and) Sea water (and) Phormidium Persicinum extract) is said to be the first blue exosomes developed for the cosmetic industry. This innovative technology produced by CODIF Technologie Naturelle represents a new generation of 100% natural delivery systems inspired by the microalga Phormidium persicinum

True exosomes, originating from natural exocytosis mechanisms, are small (<150nm) and rich in proteins, nucleic acids and other components of interest. They carry a complete biochemical signature, which allows cell communication. It is essential to clearly distinguish exosomes from other extracellular vesicles to avoid confusion and ensure optimal effectiveness.

Phormiskin Bioprotech contains millions of blue exosomes per millilitre of active ingredient.

These blue exosomes are very specific, as they originate from an ancestral blue microalga, which gives them their exclusive structure and content. They contain an impressive 780 identified proteins, of which 30% are membrane proteins and 70% are cytosolic proteins. These proteins have

Did you know?

Not all vesicles are exosomes. The term ‘exosome’ is sometimes used incorrectly in reference to larger extracellular vesicles, which may lack the unique properties of true exosomes. When a vesicle exceeds 300nm, it is no longer considered an exosome but is classified as a different category of vesicle, generally less complex and less effective.

antioxidant properties, such as thioredoxin and glutathione-dependent peroxiredoxin, along with RNA – a characteristic feature of true exosomes.

MULTI-DIMENSIONAL PROTECTION AND REPAIR

Rigorous scientific testing has demonstrated the efficacy of Phormiskin Bioprotech’s across several crucial areas:

• Phormiskin Bioprotech offers 62% photoprotection against DNA damage caused by UV exposure and reduces the number of pycnotic cells (cells in the process of apoptosis) by 45%. This provides vital protection from suninduced cellular degradation.

"The blue exosomes in Phormiskin Bioprotech work through a sophisticated mechanism"

• Thanks to exosomal thioredoxin, its antioxidant action protects the skin from oxidative damage induced by UV rays, limiting cellular stress and p rotein carbonylation.

• Studies show that Phormiskin Bioprotech provides 100% protection against UVinduced elastin fibre degradation, helping maintain skin elasticity and youthfulness.

• It increases the density of epidermal stem cells by 26% and fibroblasts by 34%, promoting skin renewal and repair of longterm damage.

TRANSFORMING SKIN HEALTH

The blue exosomes in Phormiskin Bioprotech work through a sophisticated mechanism. When applied to skin in an emulsion, they penetrate the layers of the epidermis delivering their valuable cargo of bioactive molecules, including exosomal thioredoxin. This antioxidant acts at multiple levels:

1. In the epidermis it provides photoprotection against DNA damage and boosts the protective efficacy of SPF 30 sun care products.

2. At the dermal-epidermal junction it provides antioxidant protection against carbonylation.

3. In the dermis it promotes elastin production and repairs long-term damage by increasing cell density.

BLUEPRINT FOR ADVANCED SKINCARE

The quest for longevity remains a pillar in skincare, driving the cosmetics industry to develop conscious, sustainable and innovative beauty solutions. The demand for this strategy in anti-ageing also continues to shape research priorities with the aim of preserving long-term cellular health and skin’s overall well-being.

Phormiskin Bioprotech presents a compelling offering for formulators looking to develop next-generation sun care and anti-ageing products. With its natural origin, scientific validation and multi-functional benefits, this ingredient is positioned to become a cornerstone in premium skincare formulations targeting photoprotection, longevity and optimal skin health. •

Depletion

Minerals: the key to wellness in women

Women require specialised nutritional support through every life stage, from adolescence to menopause. Essential minerals play a crucial role in addressing these unique physiological needs and improving quality of life. Dr. Paul Lohmann, represented in South Africa by Nautilus Chemicals, offers innovative mineral solutions specifically designed to meet the changing health needs of women.

Women’s health deserves our utmost importance. Raising awareness and emphasising preventive healthcare are key steps in improving the health outcomes and overall well-being of the female population.

It’s important to address women’s changing nutritional needs at different life stages such as menstruation, pregnancy and menopause, as this can significantly impact their quality of life. Minerals are essential for the proper functioning of the body, for women especially. Untreated deficiencies can lead to a range of serious health issues, including hormone imbalances, skin irritation, osteoporosis and anemia. Focusing on these aspects can help ensure that women are healthier, stronger and able to lead fulfilling lives.

Minerals like iron, calcium, magnesium and zinc are essential for women’s overall well-being and vitality. They play key roles in bone health, hormone regulation, improved energy levels, antioxidant support and immune function.

ENERGISE AND THRIVE WITH IRON

Iron, which is necessary to produce red blood cells and hemoglobin, plays a critical role in women’s health. Due to blood loss during menstruation and increased blood volume during pregnancy, women have higher

"Zinc is a ‘beauty mineral’, contributing to healthy skin, hair and nails"

requirement of iron – this is particularly important for healthy development of the baby. Furthermore, iron is involved in several other important functions of the body including energy metabolism and immune system.

CREATING STRONG FOUNDATIONS WITH CALCIUM

This key mineral holds a pivotal position and is essential for women. Calcium is effective in lowering blood pressure, managing migraines and reducing symptoms of premenstrual syndrome.

Since women are at a higher risk of developing osteoporosis, ensuring sufficient calcium intake is essential for maintaining strong bones and teeth. Moreover, calcium promotes normal muscle function and energy metabolism.

MAGNESIUM FOR RELAXATION AND VITALITY

Another key mineral for women is magnesium. It is involved in more than 300 biochemical reactions. Magnesium participates in hormone regulation and can help to reduce common premenstrual symptoms in women at

childbearing age. Magnesium contributes to healthy bones and muscles, promotes energy production and improves mood and sleep, making it equally important for menopausal women.

CONCEPTS FOR WOMEN’S HEALTH

Besides a wide range of mineral salts, Dr. Paul Lohmann offers personalised premixes designed to meet the specific nutritional needs of women. These premixes address various health concerns and support overall well-being.

Dr. Paul Lohmann’s specialised formulations provide essential nutrients for energy, bone health, skin and hair quality, as well as reproductive health, helping women feel their best and thrive in all aspects of life.

With its expertise in the chemical and physical modification of mineral salts and its customer-oriented corporate philosophy, Dr. Paul Lohmann is an ideal partner to turn product development ideas for women’s health into reality.

If you are interested in more information about Dr. Paul Lohmann’s minerals for women’s health, contact the local sales partner, Nautilus Chemicals. •

Did you know?

Women need up to two to three times more iron than men during their reproductive years. While the average adult man requires approximately 8mg of iron daily, women between the ages of 19 and 50 require 18mg daily – with the requirement increasing to 27mg during pregnancy. This significant difference highlights why genderspecific formulations are critical in nutritional product development. Source: National Institutes of Health, Office of Dietary Supplements.

Dr. Paul Lohmann –www.lohmann-minerals.com Nautilus Chemicals –nautiluschemicals.co.za

T: +27 21 140 0308

E: info@nautiluschemicals.co.za www.nautiluschemicals.co.za

Cutting-edge biopolymer elevates femininity

IFF's AURIST™ AGC represents a new frontier in women’s personal care, combining biotechnology with exceptional performance. This innovative conditioning biopolymer enhances hair vitality and skin wellness while embodying the environmental consciousness increasingly demanded by mindful consumers of today.

The conversation around women’s health is evolving. Beauty is no longer just about aesthetics – it’s become more focused on well-being, self-care, and making conscious choices improved longevity.

Beauty is also about respecting the diversity of hair textures, skin types and cultural beauty rituals. The appearance of hair and skin are not only visible reflections of one’s health but also key to how women experience confidence and comfort in their daily lives. With this in mind, AURIST™ AGC emerges as a leading ingredient for hair vitality and skin wellness support, without compromising on sustainability.

HAIR STRENGTH, SHINE, AND SELF-EXPRESSION

Healthy hair is more than a beauty goal. It’s a form of self-expression and emotional empowerment. AURIST™ AGC enhances this experience by delivering:

• Improved wet and dry combability, reducing breakage and making hair easier to manage.

• Enhanced fluffiness and gloss, contributing to a fuller, more radiant appearance.

• Film-forming properties that support gentle styling and detangling in leavein products, making it ideal for busy routines and sensitive scalps. These benefits align with the needs of modern women who seek multi-functional, effective, and gentle solutions. These solutions should enhance their hair’s natural beauty while fitting seamlessly into their wellness routines.

SKIN SOFTNESS, COMFORT AND CARE

In body wash and personal care applications, AURIST™ AGC supports skin health by:

• Improving skin conditioning, reducing roughness and enhancing softness.

• Boosting ease of rising, ensuring a clean, residue-free feel that respects the skin’s natural balance.

The natural origin and biodegradability of this conditioning biopolymer make it particularly attractive to women who are mindful of environmental sustainability and their personal care product choices.

POWERED BY DEB TECHNOLOGY

AURIST™ AGC delivers exceptional performance while addressing the cosmetic industry’s growing sustainability demands.

"AURIST™ AGC delivers exceptional performance while addressing sustainability demands"

This breakthrough ingredient leverages IFF's proprietary Designed Enzymatic Biopolymers (DEB) technology – a sophisticated biotech platform that engineers functional ingredients through enzymecatalysed reactions.

This precision manufacturing approach significantly reduces solvent use, energy consumption and waste generation compared to conventional chemical processes, offering formulators a responsible choice without compromising efficacy.

WHAT IS DEB TECHNOLOGY?

DEB is a mild, enzymatic biocatalysis process that uses enzymes to polymerise glucose into a new class of alpha-glucan polysaccharides. Unlike traditional chemical synthesis, which often involves harsh solvents and high energy

consumption, DEB operates under gentle conditions. This makes it a low-impact, eco-conscious alternative.

The alpha-glucan polysaccharides can be customised with functional groups, such as hydrophobic, hydrophilic, or charged moieties, to meet specific performance needs in hair and skincare applications.

ENVIRONMENTAL AND TECHNICAL ADVANTAGES

The enzymatic process underpinning DEB polymers exemplifies green chemistry principles through its energy efficiency and minimal waste generation. These polymers are inherently designed with biodegradability in mind, ensuring they break down safely in the environment after use.

Furthermore, the controlled enzymatic manufacturing process delivers high structural uniformity, which significantly reduces batch-to-batch variability and enhances formulation reliability. Perhaps most importantly for industry adoption, DEB technology has been engineered for industrial-scale production, making this sustainable innovation both commercially viable and widely accessible to manufacturers across the personal care industry.

A FUTURE-FOCUSED APPROACH

By integrating sustainability at the molecular level, DEB technology enables the creation of ingredients like AURIST™ AGC, which are high-performing, safe and environmentally responsible.

It’s a model for how the beauty industry can evolve – through science, responsibility, and innovation.

AURIST™ AGC is available in South Africa from IMCD. •

Holistic solutions for female vitality

The women’s health sector is undergoing a paradigm shift, driven by heightened awareness and a growing preference for personalised and preventive solutions. Brenntag SA distributes a range of scientifically-backed ingredients to meet women’s diverse health needs.

Women today are not only prioritising their own health but also taking the lead in making informed decisions for their families. This evolving dynamic presents a unique opportunity for nutraceutical companies to develop innovative products tailored to women’s specific needs. Arjuna Natural, with its leadership in womenfocused research and clinically validated formulations like Rhuleave-K, is at the forefront of this transformation.

KEY MARKET DRIVERS

Stress-related conditions are highly prevalent among women due to hormonal fluctuations, demanding lifestyles and societal responsibilities. Adaptogenic ingredients like Ashwagandha (Shoden®) offer effective solutions for managing stress, improving energy levels and enhancing cognitive health. Arjuna Natural’s clinically validated Ashwagandha extract is designed for high bioavailability, making it an ideal choice for mood relaxation supplements. The concept of ‘beauty from within’ is gaining traction as women increasingly seek products that enhance skin health, hair vitality and overall radiance. Ingredients like Curcumin (a potent antioxidant) and Boswellia serrata are integral

Did you know?

Arjuna Natural’s expertise in ingredient standardisation ensures that its products can be seamlessly integrated into innovative delivery formats while maintaining efficacy. Options include more convenient and enjoyable delivery formats such as gummies, powders, soft chews, drink mixes, shots, gels and bars or bites.

to formulations targeting inflammation and oxidative stress – two key contributors to ageing. Arjuna Natural’s expertise in curcumin extraction ensures high potency and efficacy in addressing beauty-related concerns.

Sexual health is becoming a priority for women seeking natural solutions to enhance libido, hormonal balance and reproductive health. Traditional herbs like Shatavari and Fenugreek, offered by Arjuna Natural, are wellknown for their benefits in supporting hormonal equilibrium and post-menopausal wellness.

TARGETED WELLNESS SOLUTIONS

Women are increasingly seeking targeted solutions that address specific life stages or health cycles, such as:

• Menopause – symptoms like hot flashes, mood swings and joint discomfort can be alleviated using natural ingredients like Boswellia serrata and Ashwagandha.

• Dysmenorrhea – Arjuna Natural’s flagship product, Rhuleave-K offers fast-acting pain relief for menstrual discomfort through its synergistic blend of curcumin and Boswellia serrata

• Weight management – safe and effective weight management remains a significant focus area for women. Ingredients like Fenugreek (for appetite control) and Ashwagandha (for managing stress-induced weight gain) can be incorporated into formulations targeting metabolic health.

PERSONALISATION FOR THE PROACTIVE WOMAN

Precision healthcare focuses on personalised solutions tailored to individual needs based on genetics, lifestyle and biomarkers. This approach

aligns with Arjuna Natural’s commitment to research-backed products that address specific conditions indirectly by improving overall quality of life rather than merely treating symptoms.

For example, personalised nutrition plans incorporating Rhuleave-K for pain management or Ashwagandha for stress reduction can empower women to proactively take charge of their health.

AI-driven formulations targeting genetic predispositions are also expected to dominate premium segments of the market by 2035.

INNOVATION ON THE ROAD AHEAD

The future of women’s wellness lies in holistic solutions that integrate science-backed ingredients with innovative delivery systems tailored specifically to their unique challenges throughout various life stages. Whether it is addressing menopause symptoms, managing stress, or enhancing beauty from within, Arjuna Natural is poised to lead this transformative journey with its pioneering products.

Women’s health is not just an opportunity— it is a responsibility that demands innovation, precision, and compassion.

Brenntag SA, the local agent for Arjuna Natural, also supplies additional materials beyond Arjuna’s offerings, including hydrolysed collagen for ‘beauty from within’ benefits and Evening Primrose Oil PD. It’s women’s health range further extends to creatine, which has been shown to be particularly beneficial for women, supporting cognitive function, muscle strength and exercise performance. •

Supporting women through every life stage

Throughout life’s journey, from early womanhood to maturity, women’s health needs evolve. Savannah Fine Chemicals offers a variety of scientifically substantiated ingredients, which address these changing requirements.

The women’s health market is seeing a significant shift toward personalised solutions that meet specific health concerns at different life stages. Recent market research shows growing consumer interest in evidence-based, natural ingredients that support physical and mental wellbeing, with particular focus on hormonal balance, microbiome health and age-related concerns.

SUPPORT

THROUGH THE STAGES OF LIFE

Veri-te™ Resveratrol is a premium-grade transresveratrol, produced through innovative yeast fermentation technology. This bioactive polyphenol delivers exceptional benefits for women, particularly during and after menopause.

The landmark RESHAW study (Resveratrol Supporting Healthy Aging in Women) provides compelling evidence for resveratrol’s efficacy. This 24-month controlled trial demonstrated significant improvements in cognitive performance, cerebral blood flow, and reduced arterial stiffness (Zaw, Howe, & Wong 2020, Nutrients ).

What makes Veri-te™ Resveratrol exceptional is not just its proven health benefits, but also its purity. At >98% pure trans-resveratrol, the product is free from contaminants with Halal, Kosher and EFSA novel food approvals.

For mature women, resveratrol delivers three crucial benefits:

1. Bone health – clinical studies confirm increased bone mineral density in the lumbar spine and femoral neck, which are critical areas prone to osteoporotic fractures (Wong et al., Journal of Bone and Mineral Research, 2020).

2. Cognitive function – research shows enhanced memory, mood and

cerebrovascular function, all particularly important as women face increased risk of dementia compared to men.

3. Hormonal balance – by activating SIRT1, a protein regulating cellular ageing, and exhibiting phytoestrogen activity, resveratrol helps combat age-related cellular damage while compensating for reduced estrogen during menopause.

TAILORED PROBIOTIC SOLUTIONS

Novonesis offers specialised probiotic combinations to address the unique microbiome challenges women experience during different life stages.

"Resveratrol helps combat age-related cellular damage "

For early womanhood and vaginal health, UREX® combines Lactobacillus rhamnosus GR-1® and Lactobacillus reuteri RC-14®. Clinical studies by Petricevic et al. (2008) and Martinez et al. (2009) confirm these strains effectively restore and maintain vaginal microbiome balance while preventing urinary tract discomfort.

ASTARTE™, featuring four carefully selected Lactobacillus strains (L. crispatus LbV 88™, L. jensenii LbV 116™, L. gasseri LbV 150N™, and L. rhamnosus LbV 96™), provides the most common bacterial species found in a healthy vagina. Research by Laue et al. (2018) and Anoshina et al. (2016) demonstrates its effectiveness in establishing healthy vaginal microflora while reducing digestive complaints.

For pregnancy and motherhood, Novonesis offers a unique synbiotic combination of Lactobacillus rhamnosus LGG®, ISTILOS™

(seeded with Bifidobacterium infantis ), and 2’-Fucosyllactose (2’-FL). This combination supports maternal microbiome health while reducing the risk of atopic conditions in infants, as shown in studies by Kalliomäki et al. (2001, 2007).

Lactobacillus reuteri LRC™ supports metabolic health during mature life stages. It helps women maintain healthy LDL cholesterol levels and improving serum vitamin D status, as documented by Jones et al. (2012, 2013).

COMPREHENSIVE SOLUTIONS

Savannah Fine Chemicals provides a portfolio of ingredients to nutraceutical brands and product developers to meet women’s evolving health needs. These ingredients are suitable for the following applications:

• Clinically documented probiotic strains for vaginal health to restore and maintain beneficial microflora

• Resveratrol for cognitive health, bone strength and hormonal balance to improve general wellbeing

• Targeted probiotics for metabolic health to support healthy cholesterol levels and improve women’s vitamin D status

• Pregnancy support in the form of specialised synbiotics, which benefit mother and infant

• Evidence-based solutions for menopausal comfort to manage physical and mental symptoms.

By combining these premium ingredients, manufacturers can develop targeted formulations that support women through every stage of life. Contact Savannah Fine Chemicals for more information. •

Savannah Fine Chemicals –www.savannah.co.za

Heritage and science drive a beauty revolution

Beauty innovation is increasingly driven by savvy consumers who are researching ingredients before making purchasing decisions. According to the latest Spate Ingredient Trends Report, this evolution in consumer behaviour is reshaping product development strategies. In this article, P&C Review shares key findings from the report.

In skincare, collagen continues its explosive growth with TikTok views surging by 745.4% year on year and searches for collagen masks growing by 1.5%. Brands like Medicube have successfully capitalised on this trend with overnight masks that combine collagen with other beneficial ingredients such as kojic acid and turmeric, offering multi-functional benefits.

Consumer interest in collagen is evolving beyond traditional supplements to innovative topical applications. This presents a significant opportunity for manufacturers to develop delivery systems that maximise collagen’s efficacy in skincare formulations.

Hypochlorous acid is emerging as another star ingredient for skin barrier protection and repair. With its gentle yet effective antimicrobial properties, it’s becoming a go-to ingredient for sensitive skin formulations. Meanwhile, ricebased ingredients are gaining traction for their brightening properties and ability to combat dull skin.

HERITAGE INGREDIENTS MAKE A COMEBACK

Perhaps most surprising is the remarkable rise of beef tallow, a traditional emollient that saw search volume skyrocket by 9.500% year on year. This heritage ingredient, once a staple in our grandparents’ skincare routines, is finding new life in niche brands’ soaps, balms, and moisturisers, appealing to consumers seeking time-tested solutions.

Other traditional ingredients are also seeing renewed interest. This trend represents a significant opportunity for South African manufacturers to highlight indigenous botanicals with generations of traditional use behind them.

HAIR CARE SHIFTS FOCUS TO SCALP HEALTH

For while now there has been an increased focus on scalp health as it forms the foundation

for healthy hair. Batana oil is gaining traction for its hair growth properties alongside betterknown ingredients like rosemary. With its origins in traditional Central American hair care practices, batana oil exemplifies the growing consumer interest in plant-based solutions with cultural significance.

Ketoconazole is attracting attention beyond its anti-dandruff benefits, with online search interest rising by 21.9% year on year. Research suggesting potential applications for scalp health and hair loss prevention has contributed to TikTok views increasing by 445%. Other nourishing oils like moringa and apricot are also rising in popularity for their hydration and scalp health benefits.

BODY CARE’S

CLINICAL TRANSFORMATION

Body care is witnessing its own revolution with ingredients previously reserved for facial treatments now being formulated for allover use. Tretinoin mentions on TikTok have increased by over 20 000% as consumers seek pharma-grade solutions for scars and stretch marks.

Similarly, glycolic acid has transcended its facial exfoliant status to become a body care staple, with TikTok views surging 833.6% year on year. Consumers are increasingly using these ingredients to address hyperpigmentation, keratosis pilaris, and even body odour, demonstrating how ingredient education is driving more sophisticated usage patterns.

IMPLICATIONS FOR LOCAL MANUFACTURERS

For South African beauty brands and manufacturers, these trends present a unique opportunity to combine global ingredient innovations with local botanical treasures. Indigenous ingredients like marula oil, rooibos, and baobab can be positioned alongside trending actives to create unique formulations

that tell compelling stories while delivering proven results.

Manufacturers should also consider the educational component of product development. As consumers become more ingredient-savvy, brands that provide clear, accurate information about their ingredients’ benefits and proper usage will build stronger consumer trust and loyalty.

"Manufacturers should also consider the educational component of product development"

Local manufacturers can also capitalise on the growing interest in sustainable and ethically sourced ingredients. South Africa’s rich biodiversity and established botanical supply chains offer a competitive advantage in developing products that meet both efficacy and sustainability requirements.

Spate’s Ingredient Trends Report suggests that social media will continue driving ingredient trends, with brands needing to monitor platforms like TikTok closely for early signals of shifting consumer interests. However, lasting success will come from substantiating social media claims with scientific validation and creating products that deliver on their promises.

Visit www.spate.nyc/reports/2025ingredient-trends-report to download a copy of Spate’s Ingredient Trends Report. •

Spate – www.spate.nyc

Innovative technology cuts processing time by 30%

When it comes to producing and coating granulates, contract manufacturer Klocke Pharma-Service puts its trust in fluid bed technology from Romaco Innojet. With its wide range of benefits, the VENTILUS technology is tailored to the requirements of the contract manufacturing organisation.

The Klocke Group is one of Europe’s leading contract manufacturing and packaging suppliers. Klocke Pharma-Service in Appenweier, Germany, processes a variety of raw materials into powder granulates and pellets, mainly for compression into tablets. The contract manufacturer first started using VENTILUS fluid bed processors in 2014 and has continuously enlarged its stock of ever since.

Klocke presently has six Innojet-built fluid bed processors for wet granulation processes with aqueous and solvent-based binder media as well as for drying and pellet coating. In addition to a VENTILUS® pilot plant for batch sizes up to 50 ℓ, three production plants for up to 400 ℓ and two for up to 800 ℓ are in use today. These systems are designed to be compatible in terms of product filters and spare parts, with simple upscaling from a smaller processing machine to a larger one.

“The VENTILUS fluid bed processors from Romaco Innojet have helped us achieve a technological leap,” reports Alexander Pergande, managing director operations at Klocke Pharma-Service. “The uniform flow conditions in the machines and the precise bottom spray technology mean we can produce granulates with a more homogeneous particle size distribution and hence better flowability, leading to higher tableting speeds. Our service portfolio has been expanded because of this technology – now we can also coat pellets or film-coat micro-tablets, which we couldn’t do with top spray technology.”

PATENTED AIR FLOW

BED TECHNOLOGY

The air used for this process is introduced through a special ORBITER® booster plate consisting of overlapping circular plates. The innovative ORBITER flow technology

results in a toroidal product movement in the cylindrical product container, which gently intermixes the batch. The speed of the particles and their path through the container are clearly defined and reproducible, enabling the spray liquid evaporation rate to be precisely calculated and the dosage adjusted accordingly.

SIGNIFICANT ENERGY REDUCTION

Drying is rapid and homogeneous because the flow of process air is heated.

“The VENTILUS technology has improved the drying time of all the products we manufacture. Depending on product properties, up to 30% shorter processing times can be realised compared to conventional technologies,” Pergande explains.

Furthermore, with certain products, Klocke has managed to halve its process air consumption per kilogram of product (m3/kg) without any reduction in output. This is a powerful lever when it comes to cutting energy costs.

"Thanks to Romaco Innojet’s fluid bed processors, we can achieve the same output with 10% to 15% less material"

IMPROVED RAW MATERIAL USAGE

The Innojet technology has also resulted in improved raw material usage. Sediment formation on the booster plate is virtually eliminated owing to the innovative process air distribution system of the ORBITER®.

The central ROTOJET® bottom spray nozzle, via which the spray liquid is applied, allows precise adjustment of the spray angle, effectively preventing spray loss. The SEPAJET® filter system, featuring filter bags that are continuously cleaned by a blowingair rotor system, also plays a decisive role in improved raw material usage. In the case

An
aerial view of the Klocke Pharma-Service manufacturing facility

of granulation, it ensures the powdery substances are held back in the process area. During coating processes, abrasion and other fine particles are removed from the material to be treated. Hot, conditioned process air is used for filtering, avoiding the need for expensive compressed air.

“As a specialised contract manufacturer, efficient raw material usage is crucial to us,” says Pergande. “Thanks to Romaco Innojet’s fluid bed processors, we can achieve the same output with 10% to 15% less material on average, meaning we save between 3% and 30% depending on the product.”

GRANULATION AND PELLET COATING IN ONE PROCESS

Using Romaco Innojet technologies, Klocke currently manufactures around 40 different products in the form of classic powder granulates. There are also a few products for which the pellets are built up by coating.

A simple parameter setting on the HMI panel is all it takes for machine operators

to individually adjust the spray pressure, the volume of the airflow and the material sprayed when switching between granulation and coating. No mechanical conversion work is necessary; it is also no longer essential to replace the spray nozzle. Accordingly, the VENTILUS does not have to be discharged at the end of the granulation step but can proceed directly to pellet coating. This not only adds up to a huge time saving for producers but also reduces the risk of cross contamination. Employee health and safety is also improved whenever critical substances are involved, because the material is treated in a closed process.

INDIVIDUAL SOLUTIONS

Klocke’s fluid bed processors were specifically adapted by Innojet to the contract manufacturer’s existing production infrastructure. Besides the standalone version, one 400 ℓ and one 800 ℓ VENTILUS system can be coupled up to a compulsory mixer.

Innojet has come up with a multi-section transfer stainless steel pipe connection with a specially designed product conveying aid for combined lines consisting of a compulsory mixer and a fluid bed processor. For example, the process air from the VENTILUS is used for pre-drying in the compulsory mixer.

Depending on the requirements of a customer, Klocke can use the fluid bed processors and compulsory mixers either individually or in a tandem arrangement. This gives the contract manufacturer considerable flexibility in production planning.

you know?

The VENTILUS manages product drying extremely efficiently when installed in tandem with upstream granulation in the compulsory mixer.

DEVELOPMENT PARTNERSHIP FOR A NEW FLEXIJET NOZZLE

In recent years, Romaco Innojet and Klocke Pharma-Service have steadily intensified their collaboration in a development partnership. At its Appenweier facility, Klocke recently became the first user to go live with Innojet’s new FLEXIJET® nozzle. This solution is more robustly designed and easier to handle than its predecessor, the ROTOJET®.

The FLEXIJET® nozzle achieves the same spray quality and has already proven itself in practice at Klocke in all manner of applications.

“We greatly appreciate the open cooperation with Innojet, especially when the aim is to jointly develop strategies and solutions for meeting the daily challenges of contract manufacturing. We are also happy to reciprocate by sharing our experiences to assist in driving the ongoing advancement of Innojet technologies. This has significant benefits for both companies in the long run,” Pergande asserts. “The efficient, scalable and reliable technologies, backed by competent and prompt service, make Innojet an ideal partner in our efforts to be positioned in the market as a contract manufacturer of choice.” •

Klocke Pharma-Service –www.klocke.com Romaco Group – www.romaco.com

The VENTILUS fluid bed processor from Romaco Innojet installed at Klocke Pharma-Service
A patented booster plate with a central bottom spray nozzle reduces drying times and process air consumption
The VENTILUS technology is used for drying, granulation and coating
Homogeneous particle size distribution results in better flowability and high tableting speeds
The VENTILUS series is powered by advanced air flow bed technology, was originally developed and internationally patented by Dr Herbert Hüttlin. This air flow bed technology has also received numerous awards.

Another Successful Suppliers Day for the personal care industry

The fifth Coschem Suppliers Day, held on 14 May at Bryanston Country Club in Johannesburg, was a great success.

This year, 26 leading raw material suppliers showcased their latest innovations and trends, hot on the heels of in-cosmetics Global, welcoming manufacturers, business owners, and aspiring entrepreneurs to an inspiring day of knowledge sharing and networking.

The morning was abuzz with excitement as many customers visited the supplier stands, eager to explore the newest offerings in cosmetic science and formulation development.

A HUB FOR NETWORKING AND KNOWLEDGE SHARING

This vibrant tabletop exhibition has become a staple event in Johannesburg for manufacturers, brand owners and cosmetic chemists to attend.

Coschem is also proud to have expanded the concept to Cape Town and Kwa-Zulu Natal. The KZN Suppliers Day is scheduled for 23 July, while the industry looks forward to the Cape Town Suppliers Day on 2 October.

These events offer a fantastic opportunity to explore the latest innovations in cosmetic ingredients. Delegates can connect with key suppliers and gain insights into cutting-edge formulation trends.

Send an email to bridget@coschem.co.za for more information on attending or participating in the regional Suppliers Day events. •

Coschem – www.coschem.co.za

SUPPLIERS DAY EXHIBITORS:

Acti-Chem SA

Azelis

AECI Specialty Chemicals

Botanichem

Brenntag South Africa

BRB International

Chempure

CJP Chemicals

Cosmetic Ingredients

Carst & Walker

Croda Beauty

Essential Specialised Products

Fourchem

Lisam

Monitoring & Control Laboratories

Millchem

Moellhausen

Natchem

Orchem/Evonik

Refined Naturals

The Lubrizol Corporation

The Care Co.

Transmare Chemie South Africa

Savannah Fine Chemicals

Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients

Vantage Specialty Chemicals

There are so many benefits to registering on the P&C Review website. You’ll gain free and instant access to every digital edition of the magazine, which you can download in PDF format and save. You’ll also gain access to loads of industry news and other relevant and useful content.

REGISTER

www.b2bcentral.co.za/register/

FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA

LinkedIn www.linkedin.com/company/ pharmaceutical-cosmetic-review

Facebook www.facebook.com/ PharmaceuticalCosmeticReview

SAAFFI-Wits Flavour & Fragrance Technology Course 2024 Graduation

On 7 May, a group gathered at Definitive Conferencing, a beautiful venue in Edenvale, to celebrate the graduation of the students who completed the SAAFFI-Wits Course in Flavour & Fragrance Technology during 2024.

The Flavour & Fragrance Technology course, which is held annually at Wits University School of Chemistry, and is also available online, consists of 12 lectures and 3 practical sessions. It is offered to second year Applied Chemistry students at Wits, and is open to interested members of the flavour, fragrance and FMCG industries. While the course is based in South Africa, students from as far as Chile, South America have participated.

"The

graduating students spoke of the value of the course and are inspired

to build a career in this fascinating industry"

The flavour & fragrance industry is a little-known industry – but touches our lives from the moment we wake up to the moment we go to sleep, enhancing products from air fresheners to zaatar-flavoured snacks.

The graduating students – 26 from Wits university and 17 from the flavour & fragrance industry – spoke of the value of the course

and are inspired to build a career in this fascinating industry.

A CELEBRATION WITH SPECIAL GUESTS

The graduation ceremony was attended by industry leaders and special guests invited by the graduates. These included parents, spouses, family, friends and children of some graduates, who displayed a sense of pride in their ‘person’ for an excellent achievement. Words of welcome and thanks were offered to:

• Shimadzu for their generous a nnual sponsorship

• Mike Capon and Sensetek for their sponsorship of student prizes

• course-coordinator for the programme, Dr Maya Makatini and the entire Wits School of Chemistry for their support and partnership

• lecturers who dedicate their time to the course pro bono

• facilitators of the practical sessions

• SAAFFI management committee

• employers who cover enrolment costs for their employees as well as give them time needed to complete the course.

Graduation

INDUSTRY LEADERS INSPIRE THE EXPERTS OF TOMORROW

The programme for the evening included a welcome from Sharon Bolel, executive director of SAAFFI; encouraging words and good wishes form Dr Karina Rogers, chairperson of the SAAFFI management committee; and congratulations from Prof Charles de Koning, head of Wits School of Chemistry. Graduating student, Ndumiso Ndlela gave a delightful speech on behalf of the students. Ndumiso was also awarded the prize for being the top student.

After the certificates were presented, prizes sponsored by Sensetek were presented to the two top graduating students –Ndumiso Ndlela and Heather Nkomo.

The evening concluded in a celebratory mood with delicious refreshments and enjoyable networking.

For more information about the 2025 course, please send an email to sharon@saaffi.co.za or check the SAAFFI website for updates. •

SAAFFI – www.saaffi.co.za

ceremony highlights

Efficiency:

Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.