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Volume 51 | Number 2
www.pharmacos.co.za
8 News
L’Oréal SA appoints new GM for Consumer Products
Symrise strengthens anti-dandruff offering
Romaco earns Gold EcoVadis sustainability rating
12 Hair Care
Variati explores the antibacterial properties of lichens
Discover the hair cycling trend for targeted care
18 Pharma Focus/ Excipients & APIs
Deal a winning hand with magnesium stearate
New partnership for AECI Specialty Chemicals and Vanderbilt Minerals
22 Propak Africa Preview
Reasons to attend Africa’s biggest packaging trade show
Prime Product invests in a new tube filling machine
28 Sun Care
Ingredients for an integrated approach to sun care
IMCD discusses the ‘sunification’ of skincare
30 Preservatives/ Anti-microbials
Enhance your preservative performance naturally
Prevent unpleasant odour using smart antimicrobial technologies
We’ve got a host of engaging and insightful articles in the February edition of P&C Review, which delve into key trends shaping the pharma, cosmetics and personal care industries.
Excipients and APIs are front and centre in our pharma focus on page 18 with an interesting article on how magnesium stearate works and how to evaluate it as a tablet lubricant. We also introduce a significant distribution partnership set to enhance access to novel pharma solutions in Sub-Saharan Africa.
More than a social media trend, hair cycling is spotlighted in our section on hair care. In addition to this, we explore the antibacterial properties of lichens in combating dandruff. Turn to page 12 for more.
The arena of sunscreens sees exciting discussions on full-spectrum UV protection and sustainable formulations, along with the ‘sunification’ of skincare as sun protection becomes a staple in skincare routines. Learn more on page 26
Get a sneak peek into what’s hot at Propak Africa 2025, Africa's leading packaging event, and discover the many reasons why you should attend this trade show. Go to page 22 for more.
Another exciting read in our February edition is Liz Visser’s essay on ‘The Evolution of Sunscreen: From UV Protection to Full-Spectrum Care’. Liz is the winner of this year’s Coschem cosmetic science course/P&C Review essay prize. To acknowledge Liz’s achievement, her essay is published on page 34 and she has received a prize sponsored by P&C Review
Natasha Lopes has been appointed general manager of L’Oréal’s Consumer Products Division (CPD) in Southern Africa. Natasha brings over a decade of experience within the L’Oréal Group, having joined the company in 2013. Most recently, she led the L’Oréal Dermatological Beauty (LDB) Division, achieving remarkable growth and market leadership.
Under Natasha’s leadership, the LDB Division experienced transformative growth, ascending from eighth place in the dermocosmetics market in 2020 (with 4% market share) to a dominant leadership position in 2024 with a 31.5% market share, contributing an impressive aggregate of 62.3% of the market growth over four years.
Commenting on her new role, Natasha says: “The growth we’ve achieved reflects our commitment to meeting consumer needs with sciencebacked, dermatologist-recommended products.
I am excited to bring this same level of passion and focus to the Consumer Products Division as we navigate an evolving market landscape.”
Serge Sacre, CEO of L’Oréal South Africa, expressed confidence in Natasha’s ability to drive the Consumer Products Division forward.
“Natasha has demonstrated exceptional strategic acumen and the ability to adapt to changing market dynamics. Her results-driven approach and ability to understand her local consumer base has yielded our results phenomenally, a quality we need for the Consumer Products Division,” Serge comments.
As Natasha steps into her new role, her strategic insights and understanding of evolving consumer behaviours will be instrumental in strengthening L’Oréal’s market position. Rising costs of living and shifting labour market dynamics demand innovative approaches to meet consumer needs, and Natasha’s proven leadership promises to advance the division’s ambition to become the market leader in Southern Africa.
L’Oréal’s dedication to Africa extends beyond product innovation. Through its ethos of ‘We create the beauty that moves the world, the company continues to invest in sustainable growth and transformation in the region. In Natasha’s words, “the time is now to create the Beauty that moves Africa”.
Symrise strengthens anti-dandruff offering
Crinipan® PO Plus by Symrise is a versatile and easy-to-handle solution designed to protect the scalp from dandruff and oiliness. Suitable for a wide range of hair and scalp care products, it combines established and modern ingredients. This new launch joins Symrise’s leading portfolio of efficacious solutions for dandruff control.
By combining the renowned anti-dandruff agent piroctone olamine with modern ingredients such as decylene glycol and 1,2-hexanediol, Crinipan® PO Plus takes a novel, multi-ingredient approach to dandruff control. The product targets Malassezia, helping to reduce dandruff on the scalp and consequently limits redness. The mode of action results from its efficacy against Staphylococcus aureus, which also contributes to a reduction of sebum.
“We are delighted to introduce this ready-to-use, effective solution for hair and scalp care formulators”
Formulators can easily handle and use Symrise’s innovative liquid solution, with no heating required to incorporate it into formulations. This sets Crinipan® PO Plus apart from piroctone olamine, which comes in a powder format. The liquid solution works well in clear liquid and solid shampoos, serums, and rinse-off and leave-on conditioners. This makes it ideal for responding to market trends in dandruff control. With its improved solubility, synergistic combination of ingredients, and compliance with global regulations (including China), the product provides diverse benefits to customers and consumers around the world. Various production sites around the world ensures its global availability.
“We are delighted to introduce this ready-to-use, effective solution for hair and scalp care formulators,” says Laura Meunier, global product manager at Symrise. “Crinipan® PO Plus makes it easy for manufacturers to deliver confidence to consumers through a cleaner scalp. We are further strengthening our anti-dandruff offering. We are also demonstrating our innovative approach to helping tackle the challenges our customers face in today’s fast-moving hair care industry.”
Crinipan® PO Plus responds to market trends in dandruff control
Natasha Lopes, newly appointed GM of L’Oréal’s CPD in Southern Africa
Romaco earns Gold EcoVadis sustainability rating
The Romaco Group has been awarded its first-ever gold medal in the EcoVadis sustainability ratings, scoring 80 out of a possible 100 points. This result puts the international group of companies in the top 2% of all suppliers assessed.
Following the silver medal the group won in 2023, gold represents a great success for the manufacturer of processing and packaging technologies. It is also proof that the sustainability strategy adopted in 2020 is having an impact.
EcoVadis is an internationally recognised rating agency that assesses participants on their environmental, social and governance (ESG) practices. Operational performance and investments are analysed in the following four areas: environment, labour and human rights, ethics and sustainable procurement. The EcoVadis score reflects the quality of an organisation’s sustainability management system.
For the first time, the Romaco Group’s assessment included all six production sites: Karlsruhe, Cologne and Steinen (Germany) as well as Bologna (Italy), Barcelona (Spain) and Changsha (China). For this purpose, the carbon footprint of each individual Business Unit was determined and certified by an outside inspection body. The calculation was carried out in accordance with the international standards of the Greenhouse Gas Protocol (GHG). Romaco uses this operational carbon footprint as a starting point for implementing measures to accelerate decarbonisation and define climate objectives.
substantially less energy courtesy of a new blister transfer system that dispenses with a vacuum assisted overhead conveyor.
“ Romaco invests in research and development projects to curb the energy consumption of its machines”
The group has repeatedly achieved very good scores in the EcoVadis rating’s Environment category, not least due to its strong commitment to globally recognised climate change objectives. In 2024, Romaco’s plans for reducing Scope 1, 2 and 3 greenhouse gas emissions were confirmed by the Science Based Targets initiative. Through its membership of the United Nations Global Compact, the manufacturer is committed to sustainable and responsible corporate governance. This has resulted in ISO 14001 certification for Romaco’s environmental management practices at four of its six production sites.
The machinery supplier offers all its technologies in a carbon-neutral version. What’s more, Romaco invests in research and development projects to curb the energy consumption of its machines.
The use of innovative energy recovery systems has significantly reduced carbon dioxide emissions from the company’s process plants. Romaco Tecpharm tablet coaters equipped with a cross-flow heat exchanger has cut heat energy consumption by up to 50%. Thanks to an integrated heat pump, the heat energy required by fluid bed processors from Romaco Innojet can be over 70% lower. In the primary packaging segment,
Compared to the 2023 rating, the group performed noticeably better in the labour and human rights, ethics and sustainable procurement categories. Among other things, target and company agreements on employee development and training were decisive, as were corporate health and pension schemes. Romaco also scored highly with its compliance policy as well as its flexible working hours and flextime model. Various supplier surveys were conducted and a code of conduct drawn up for purchasing, laying the foundation for sustainable procurement.
“The gold medal was a team effort,” emphasized Yannick Rastetter, sustainability coordinator at the Romaco Group. “It fills us with pride, that as a midmarket company with less than 1 000 employees worldwide, we succeeded in meeting the high requirements of the EcoVadis rating across all countries and sites and earned such an excellent ranking. We aim to improve on this already fantastic result in the future. As far as climate protection is concerned, we’re doing everything we can to achieve even lower emission levels while developing technologies to reduce the end product’s carbon footprint. After all, that’s not only in our customers’ interests; it also has benefits for consumer and environmental protection.”
www.romaco.com
Romaco Noack’s Unity 600 blister packaging line now consumes
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The antibacterial power of lichens
Anna Maria Motta of Variati explores the powerful antibacterial properties of lichens. She also highlights the efficacy of the sodium salt derivative, Evosina® in treating hair care issues like dandruff.
Lichens, unique organisms formed by a symbiotic relationship between an alga and a fungus, thrive in harsh environments by utilising chlorophyllous synthesis to receive nourishment from the alga and stability from the fungus. They generate specific compounds called lichenic acids, known for their antimicrobial properties, which protect them from bacteria, fungi, and other microorganisms.1 These properties have led to their use in traditional medicine, notably in ancient China and Arabia for treating skin infections, with Usnea species being particularly significant. 2 Usnic acid, a prominent molecule from the lichenic acids family, has been thoroughly studied for its antibacterial activity and is notably abundant in various lichen species like Usnea barbata . This species, commonly referred to as old man’s beard, is a primary industrial source of usnic acid due to its widespread availability. 3, 4
THE ROLE OF USNIC ACID
Usnic acid primarily targets gram-positive bacteria and some fungi, exhibiting strong antibacterial properties with MIC values ranging from 2ppm to 15ppm, confirmed by Variati's in vitro studies. 4
Did you know?
The sodium salt derivative has been developed in two versions. Evosina® 100, in powder form, and Evosina® GP Green, which is the liquid version made up using vegetal propylene glycol from rapeseed and sunflower oils. Both are 100% plantderived ingredients and certified by green standards (COSMOS).
The effectiveness diminishes when its hydroxyl groups are altered, indicating that maintaining the molecular structure, including its salts, is crucial for its activity. 5, 6 To address its poor solubility, Variati developed Evosina®, a sodium salt derivative, enhancing solubility while maintaining a strong antibacterial profile. This derivative preserves the integrity of usnic acid’s structure, ensuring its antimicrobial properties remain intact.
ANTI-DANDRUFF EFFICACY
A clinical study was performed with the primary aim of assessing whether a shampoo formulated with the active ingredient helps to reduce desquamation and scalp redness as well as improving sebaceous balance of the scalp.
The specific end-point variables were analysed at baseline time (before the use of the products), 30 minutes and 48 hours after the first use of the products and after 28 and 45 days of treatment (30 minutes and 48 hours after the last shampoo). Each group of 10 volunteers used a product during hair washing on alternate days (every 48 hours) over 45 days.
the level of the scalp and shaft; scalp redness was clinically evaluated through observation, analysing its intensity and extension; sebum balance was clinically evaluated observing the presence of sebum on the scalp and hair oiliness.
All the variables were analysed using a HIROX-RX 2000 3D digital microscopy system. When appropriate at the followup time points, the images taken of the areas of interest were viewed and compared.
The results obtained from the preliminary study showed that the variables scalp redness, desquamation and sebaceous balance remained approximately unchanged at all observation times in the group treated with placebo shampoo, while they tended to improve over time after using the shampoo with the active ingredient at both concentrations (0.5% to 1%) and the shampoo with the benchmark. No notable differences were observed in the three groups.
The flakes of dandruff were observed, analysing their size and numerosity, at
Evosina® GP Green, tested at both concentrations, showed a marked improvement in scalp redness with results comparable to the benchmark (see figure 1). Evosina® GP Green, tested
at both concentrations, showed optimal results in reducing dandruff flakes in size and volume, comparable to the benchmark.
SEBUM BALANCE
Good results were obtained when investigating the effect of the active ingredient on sebum balance. Tested at both concentrations, the product was shown to assist in rebalancing the right level of sebum, compared to the placebo and benchmark (see figure 2).
Along with this phenomenon, a series of sensory self-evaluations were collected by the enrolled subjects on the following:
• Reducing the itching sensation of the scalp after the first shampoo (T01-30 minutes)
• Improving the itching sensation with repeated use of the product (t45-48 hours)
• Reducing scalp redness (t45-48 hours)
• Reducing dandruff both on hair and clothing (t45-48 hours)
• Improving the appearance of the hair and scalp (t45- 48 hours).
For all the questions, subjects noticed a positive and pleasant effect from the first use of the products, as well as after 45 days of treatment. Notably, the shampoo with the lowest concentration of the active ingredient provided the longest-lasting relief, easing the itching sensation for up to 36 hours after washing.
APPLICATIONS AND CONCLUSION
Suggested formulations using both the sodium usnate powder and solution include deodorant roll-on, sprayable deodorant cream and solution, intimate hygiene products, acne-prone skin treatments, anti-dandruff shampoo, toothpastes and mouthwashes. The recommended dosage range for the powder is 0.01% to 0.02% and 0.1% to 1% for the liquid version.
" Evosina® specialties align well with today’s natural cosmetic standards "
REFERENCES:
Available in South Africa from Transmare Chemie, Evosina® 100 and Evosina® GP Green are suitable for natural cosmetic products. They can be used in formulations by incorporating them towards the end of the process, just before adjusting the pH to the required level. Before being added to a formulation, sodium usnate powder should be dissolved in solvents like alcohol, glycerin, propylene glycol, or butylene glycol.
Evosina® specialties align well with today’s natural cosmetic standards while serving as highly effective and safe antibacterial agents. •
1. Maugini E. Manuale di botanica Farmaceutica 6th Ed. Piccin. 1983
2. Ingolfsdottir K. Usnic acid. Phytochemistry. 2002 Dec; 61(7):729-36
3. Rochleder F, Heldt W. Liebigs Annalen. 48, 11 (1843)
4. Fontana M, Proserpio G. L’acido usnico come preservante naturale, deodorante e dermopurificante nei sistemi cosmetici. EPPOS 315336, 1974
5. Shibata S, Miura Y, Ukita C, Tamura T. Chem Abstr. 45, 6691/2 (1951)
6. Erba E, Pocar D, Rossi LM. New esters of R-(+)-usnic acid. ll Farmaco. 1998, 53, 718
Figure 1: Reduction of redness after application of a placebo shampoo, 0.5% and 1% Evosina GP Green shampoo, benchmark (rinse-off application)
Figure 2: Improvement of sebum balance after application of a placebo shampoo, shampoo with 0.5% Evosina GP Green, 1% Evosina GP Green, benchmark (rinse-off application)
Hair cycling for targeted care
More than a social media trend, hair cycling has real advantages. The hair and scalp can benefit from the different kinds of ingredients and formulations depending on their current state and needs. In this article, CJP Chemicals’ principal, Seppic discusses how to innovate in line with the hair cycling trend.
In 2023, hair cycling went viral on Tik Tok, with more than 22 million views of the hashtag. Hair cycling is akin to the ‘skin cycling’ routine, involving a structured regimen that rotates specific hair and scalp products to address individual needs. This method emphasises using the right product at the right time, avoiding the layering of multiple products that can lead to buildup and ineffective results.
The hair cycling routine consists of three distinct phases: detox; repair; and treat. Each phase targets specific hair and scalp concerns, allowing consumers to achieve optimal results. The detox phase focuses on purifying the scalp, stimulating blood circulation, and removing pollutants and excess sebum. Products typically used during this stage include scalp scrubs, clarifying shampoos, and replenishing conditioners. The repair phase aims to restore and strengthen the hair, while the treat phase involves targeted treatments for specific issues, such as dryness or damage. Additionally, the routine includes one or two rest days where no products are applied, allowing the scalp to breathe and maintain its natural balance.
The hair care industry is at a pivotal moment, with the potential for significant innovation driven by consumer demand
From a physiological perspective, hair cycling offers several benefits. The alternating wash and rest days help reduce product buildup, allowing the scalp's protective barrier to function optimally. This balance is crucial for maintaining a healthy scalp microbiota, which is essential for hair growth and overall hair health.
Consumers are increasingly aware of the importance of scalp health, recognizing that a well-cared-for scalp is fundamental to achieving beautiful hair.
DETOXIFYING THE SCALP
The detoxification phase is particularly important, as it addresses common scalp concerns. During this phase, consumers use products designed to enhance blood circulation, purify the scalp, and eliminate accumulated impurities. The scalp’s unique structure necessitates specialised care. Formulators are encouraged to create sulfate-free products with mild surfactants, such as sodium cocoyl (oat or apple) amino acids, which provide effective cleansing without stripping the scalp of its natural oils.
Incorporating ingredients known for their protective properties is essential in formulating products for the detox phase. For instance, Alaria esculenta, a brown seaweed rich in beneficial phytochemicals, has demonstrated protective effects against environmental stressors, promoting scalp health and enhancing
Figure 1: Microscopy observation of foam generated
hair vitality. Additionally, the use of essential minerals can optimise oxygen availability, stimulating tissue metabolism and improving intercellular communication to support hair growth.
HAIR REPAIR IS ON THE RISE
The repair phase of hair cycling focuses on restoring the hair's integrity and strength. This phase may involve the use of deep conditioning treatments, protein-rich masks, and serums designed to repair damage caused by environmental factors, heat styling, and chemical treatments. Formulators should consider incorporating ingredients that provide moisture, enhance elasticity, and fortify the hair structure, such as hydrolyzed proteins, natural oils, and humectants.
XYLISHINE™ C by Seppic is a comprehensive solution for repairing the scalp and hair cuticles. This natural active ingredient combines a patented complex of sugar derivatives with Pelvetia canaliculata, an algae sourced from Brittany, France. Known for its remarkable resistance to dehydration, this algae enhances the efficacy of the formula.
that provide a pleasant sensory experience without greasiness. Additionally, natural high-purity alkanes are emerging as alternatives to traditional silicone and mineral oils, offering different sensory profiles and enhancing hair fibre resilience against mechanical stress.
Lauryl Glucoside & Myristyl Glucoside & Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate is a natural cold processable oil-in-water emulsifier. It forms very fluid to fluid and sprayable white and shiny emulsions. This emulsifier is suitable for overnight serums, which are overtaking overnight hair oils in popularity, because they are lightweight and don’t require rinsing the following morning.
Natural high-purity alkanes offer formulators a viable alternative to silicone or mineral oils, providing varying playtime and sensory experiences based on their chemical structure. They range from very dry oils, subtle on the hair, to rich, nourishing oils. Like silicone oils, alkanes enhance shine, control volume, and reduce frizz in curly and coily hair, along with offering thermal protection and colour retention. C15-19 Alkane, which is plantbased and renewable, helps protect hair fibres from mechanical stress, outperforming Cyclopentasiloxane and Isohexadecane in flexibility and resistance. When combined with Hydrogenated Polyfarnesene, C15-19 Alkane serves as a natural replacement for dimethiconol blends, maintaining thermal protection and offering long-lasting volume control and anti-frizz benefits.
In an in vivo study, XYLISHINE™ C has been shown to rejuvenate the scalp by boosting ceramide levels by 27% and strengthening the skin barrier by 42%. An ex vivo test, using a 3% active solution on healthy and damaged hair, revealed an 82% improvement in the surface appearance of damaged cuticles. This action makes XYLISHINE™ C an ideal component for hair care formulations targeting damaged hair.
TREAT HAIR WITH OILS AND SERUMS
Hair treatments are highlighted in the final phase, with consumers looking to address their specific hair concerns, such as dryness, frizz, or colour-treated hair. This phase can include products that deliver targeted benefits, such as leave-on conditioners, hair oils, or specialised serums.
The market is seeing a rise in diverse formulations, including shampoos, conditioners, masks, serums, and styling products. Oils remain a popular hair treatment choice, representing 14.2% of new product launches in 2023, with serums experiencing even stronger growth.1
Formulators are using natural emulsifiers to create lightweight, cold-processable oil-in-water emulsions. These emulsifiers are compatible with various oils and can produce fluid, shiny emulsions
EFFECTIVE AND TARGETED PRODUCTS IN DEMAND
As consumers become more knowledgeable about hair care, they are increasingly seeking products that align with their values and lifestyle. The hair cycling trend reflects a broader shift towards personalised, effective, and sustainable hair care solutions. Manufacturers and formulators must stay attuned to these evolving consumer preferences, developing innovative products that not only meet performance expectations but also resonate with the growing demand for transparency and sustainability in the beauty industry.
The hair care industry is at a pivotal moment, with the potential for significant innovation driven by consumer demand for personalised, effective, and holistic products. Brands that embrace the hair cycling trend and focus on educating consumers about their hair and scalp health will likely thrive in this evolving market. By leveraging new ingredients and aligning with the skinification trend, manufacturers and formulators can create products that not only meet but exceed consumer expectations, ultimately leading to healthier hair and scalp because of a more vibrant hair care routine. •
REFERENCE:
1. Mintel 2022 & 2023
Figure 2: In vivo TEWL of 10% a.m. solutions applied with by 1% a.m. surfactant solution an occlusive patch for 48 hours
Titanium dioxide (TiO2)
■ pigment
Sorbitol / Xylitol
■ filler / diluent taste masking
Sodium lactate
■ preservative
■ buffering agent
Sodium carbonate / bicarbonate buffering agent
■ CO2 release In addition to these
Silicon dioxide lubricant
■ free flowing agent
Polyethylenglycol (PEG)
■ lubricant
Calcium lactate filler / diluent
■ acidulant
Calcium phosphate
■ binder filler / diluent
Citrates buffering agent
■ acidulant CO2 release
Croscarmellose sodium disintegrant
Dextrose ■ binder filler / diluent
■ taste masking
Lactose filler / diluent
Magnesium / Calcium stereate lubricant
Native and modified starch
■ binder disintegrant
Phone: +27 82 604 4413
E-Mail: natalie.macgregor@brenntag.com
Microcrystalline cellulose binder
■ disintegrant
■ filler / diluent
Mannitol sweetening agent / diluent
Deal a winning hand with magnesium stearate
Despite its low use levels, magnesium stearate has earned a reputation as one of the most difficult excipients to use. Pieter Gommans of Peter Greven provides an overview of how magnesium stearate works and how to evaluate it as a tablet lubricant.
In the USA alone, more than 2 500 pharmaceutical products include magnesium stearate, albeit in very small amounts. Lactose, the secondmost prevalent excipient, is used in more than 2 000 pharmaceutical products and in greater amounts.
Magnesium stearate serves as a lubricant in solid dose pharmaceuticals and nutritional supplements, allowing tablets to release from the punch and die with minimal friction and sticking. It also protects the tooling from premature wear.
There are no significant toxicological concerns associated with this excipient and, in most cases, magnesium stearate is deemed an inert material that has no effect on most active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs). However, it can affect the properties of a tablet, particularly dissolution and hardness, even in small amounts. The key to controlling these effects is
selecting the right type of magnesium stearate and using it properly in the formulation. The type of magnesium stearate is determined by its physical characteristics, which in most cases depend on the method used to manufacture it.
"
The best performing magnesium stearate for tablet formulations consists of fragile crystals"
The best performing magnesium stearate for tablet formulations consists of fragile crystals that have been built up from smaller crystals, as shown in the small micrograph in figure 1. These crystals have a plate-like structure.
A DECK OF CARDS
To understand the formation and arrangement of magnesium stearate crystals it helps to think of them as a deck of playing cards. When the cards are stacked in the deck, the crystals are in formation. But when you deal the cards – as you would distribute magnesium stearate into a formulation—the crystals fracture and are sheared off. This can be seen in figure 2.
Magnesium stearate with a large surface area distributes more easily and makes for an effective lubricant, even when used in small amounts. Of course, neither crystals nor playing cards distribute themselves, so blenders are used to combine them with the API and other excipients. When this occurs, the crystals flake off (like cards in a deck). They bind to other particles, coating them piece by piece. The more energy the blender imparts to the formulation (and thus the magnesium stearate), the more particles flake off.
A V-type tumble blender, for example, imparts much less energy than a highspeed mixer. Blending time also has an impact, with more crystals flaking off the longer it lasts. In addition to this, batch size influences how the magnesium stearate behaves. Sometimes this is only apparent at scale-up, when a lowenergy laboratory blender is replaced with production equipment. The effects
Figure 1
Figure 2
of batch size on lubricant performance originate from the differences in friction and pressure between small and large blenders. The other ingredients in the formulation may also behave differently which can affect how the magnesium stearate performs.
Unfortunately, these effects are often underestimated, perhaps because the lubricant accounts for such a small portion of the formulation. However, this can be a mistake. Inadequate or excessive lubrication in a tablet formulation can lead to several issues. Under lubrication can cause material to adhere to the punches and dies, essentially pulling the tablet apart and resulting in capping. Over-lubrication can lead to soft tablets, poor to soft tablets and poor disintegration/dissolution.
PLAY YOUR CARDS RIGHT
The amount of magnesium stearate in tablet formulations is often in the region of 0.5% by weight – yet this should not be perceived a standard. Instead, the formulator must assess the performance of the lubricant in conjunction with other factors, such as:
• particle size distribution of the ingredients
• surface area and surface roughness of the ingredients
• density of the blend
• moisture content
• chemical nature of the ingredients
• solubility
• cohesiveness
• blender type
• batch size in relation to total blender capacity.
" The type of magnesium stearate is also key because each manufacturer’s product has different physical characteristics"
The type of magnesium stearate is also key because each manufacturer’s product has different physical characteristics.
John McCarty discussed this at length in the January 2007 issue of Eye on Excipients . In his article, McCarty recommended that formulators evaluate each manufacturer’s products carefully because of the wide compositional variety. Of the many chemical and physical comparisons that can be made, the ones that most often relate to performance are particle size distribution and specific surface area. Both characteristics, in most cases, depend on the manufacturer’s process, which usually are either a direct or precipitation process.
In the direct process, stearic acid reacts with magnesium oxide, and the resulting product is simultaneously dried and milled. In the precipitation process, water acts as a carrier, causing the crystal to form differently.
Table 1 includes a list of the distinguishing characteristics of magnesium stearate created by each process. Because the direct process entails milling, it breaks apart the crystal structure, which results in a high surface area. This may be helpful because
you can distribute the magnesium stearate quickly into the formulation. But it also may diminish lubricating efficiency and/or change the behaviour of the API in the tablet.
Figure 3 shows how surface area and blending time affect breaking strength.
DON’T GAMBLE
Judging by the number of articles on the topic, batch to batch consistency is a primary goal of pharmaceutical manufacturers when producing tablets. Unfortunately, magnesium stearate doesn’t always make the job easier.
But once you understand which physical characteristics to monitor, you can use this lubricating excipient with confidence to achieve reliable behaviour on the tablet press and in the ultimate performance of the tablet.
So, play your cards right, and don’t gamble – characterise your magnesium stearate and blend it into the formulation the same way every time. This will give you a winning hand. •
Did you know?
The Germany-based oleochemical company, Peter Greven produces the LIGAMED® brand of high-quality additives for pharmaceutical manufacturing. The product portfolio includes LIGAMED® Magnesium Stearate in five different variants. These and other pharma ingredients from Peter Greven are available in South Africa from Brenntag.
Figure 3
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Pieter Gommans is quality director at Peter Greven Nederland.
Table 1
Strategic partnership strengthens pharma solutions in Sub-Saharan Africa
AECI Specialty Chemicals will serve as the exclusive distributor for Vanderbilt Minerals across South Africa and the Sub-Saharan region effective March 2025. This strategic partnership strengthens its leading capabilities in delivering high-performance, innovative solutions to the pharma, personal care, and home care/industrial cleaning industries.
Vanderbilt Minerals brings decades of expertise in creating advanced rheology modifiers and specialty mineral solutions that are instrumental in developing world-class products. By integrating these cutting-edge materials into the portfolio, manufacturers now have a robust toolkit to enhance their product offerings.
Within the pharmaceutical industry, these solutions elevate sensory appeal, stability and the performance of formulations, enabling brands to surpass consumer expectations.
EXPANSION THROUGH COLLABORATION
Vanderbilt Minerals has been the premier source of natural rheology control for the past 70 years, flanked by its VEEGUM® (Magnesium Aluminum Silicate), VANATURAL (Bentonite Clay) and VANZAN (Xanthan Gum) natural, water-washed smectite clay products.
VEEGUM® clays are traditionally used as excipients in pharmaceutical formulations. In liquids, these clays are
VEEGUM® Magnesium Aluminum Silicate grades for pharmaceuticals
API creams and lotions at pH > 6
API creams and lotions at pH > 6
API suspensions at pH > 6
Anti-dandruff treatment shampoos
Tablet binder/disintegrant wet granulation
Tablet release regulator for rapid or extended release
Taste masking
Dentifrices
used primarily as suspension and emulsion stabilisers. Magnesium Aluminum Silicate is also used to control drug release in ointments and suppositories. In solid dosage forms, it is used as a binder and disintegrant for wet granulation and, in a micronised form, for direct compression tablets. These clays are also used in solid APPLICATION
" VEEGUM® clays are traditionally used as excipients in pharmaceutical formulations"
dosage forms as components of the drug delivery system – an application of growing interest because these natural excipients provide a unique combination of physicochemical properties for drug-clay interaction.
THE OPPORTUNITIES IN FORMULATION
VEEGUM® Magnesium Aluminum Silicates are valued by formulators of pharma products for their ability to modify rheology and organic thickeners. They can also enhance the sensory profile of products, functioning with most additives and performing effectively in acid and alkaline formulations.
One of the most useful features of these natural clays is their ability to stabilise oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions at low concentrations. The smectite colloidal structure effectively keeps the internal phase droplets suspended and separated. Since this structure is not affected by heat, these clays reduce the tendency of emulsions to thin out and break at elevated temperatures. Small amounts (typically 1% to 2%) will stabilise emulsions containing anionic or non-ionic surfactants and a wide variety of oils, fats and waxes. These clays are also effective in fluid water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, which are otherwise difficult to stabilise; they inhibit coalescence by increasing internal phase viscosity and by strengthening the interfacial water/oil film. Providing particular functionality in pharmaceuticals, VEEGUM® clays are used
to modify drug release from solid dosage forms, ointments and suppositories; mask the taste of bitter drugs; and function as binders in wet granulated and direct compression tablets.
" VEEGUM® Magnesium Aluminum Silicates are valued by formulators of pharma products for their ability to modify rheology and organic thickeners"
Like its emulsion stabilising property, the colloidal structure of these natural clays provides excellent suspension of fine particles in aqueous systems. These clays:
• suspend even high-density particulates
• prevent hard packing – suspensions that
tend to settle are easily redispersed
• ensure pharmaceutical suspensions of uniform dosage
• achieve maximum suspension without losing pourability
• do not form gelatinous, irreversible gels, as do many organic gums
• offer better suspension efficiency than most organic gums at equal viscosity. VEEGUM® clays can resist degradation. These minerals are not susceptible to bacteria, heat or excess mechanical shear. They are routinely used in products spanning the pH 2 to pH 13 range. These include AHA emulsions, antiperspirants, antacids and internal analgesic suspensions. Certain grades are particularly effective at extreme pHs, where their pH stability is further extended by protective colloids such as xanthan gum.
MORE THAN SIX DECADES OF EXPERIENCE
Whether it is new product development, improving existing formulations, or exploring new markets, AECI Specialty Chemicals with Vanderbilt Minerals provides unparalleled expertise and resources –especially for pharmaceutical grades of Magnesium Aluminum Silicate with USP, OMRI, COSMOS, and ECOCERT standards.
AECI Specialty Chemicals remains at the heartbeat of Africa’s formulation technology grounded in sustainable Africanised global innovation. With a rapidly expanding customer base across Africa, the business has been providing cost-effective formulation development for more than 60 years. It offers a comprehensive range of raw material products to the personal care, home care and pharma industries. •
Discover the next generation of packaging innovations and sustainable solutions at Propak Africa 2025. This premier trade event is set to transform the industry landscape.
In just a few weeks, the doors will open to South Africa’s premier trade showcase, Propak Africa, where the latest innovations across packaging, printing, plastics, food processing and labelling, will be unwrapped. Taking place at the Johannesburg Expo Centre, Nasrec, from 11 to 14 March 2025, this triennial event has become a trusted hub for industry professionals striving to stay ahead in an everchanging market.
The South African packaging industry is influenced by a range of factors, including rising competition, urbanisation, shifting consumer preferences, technological advancements, sustainability concerns, population growth, and economic changes. Increasing energy and raw material costs have further highlighted the need for energy-efficient, automated production lines. By integrating AI and digital machinery, manufacturers can enhance quality control, reduce waste, and minimise human error, allowing operators to manage multiple machines with less intervention.
EXPLORE WHAT’S NEW
Plastic packaging remains a key component of South Africa’s packaging sector, driven by demand from the pharma, personal care and food and beverage industries for its durability, lightweight nature, and cost-effectiveness.
"Plastic packaging remains a key component of South Africa’s packaging sector"
BIGGER AND BETTER IN 2025
Growing interest in recyclable and sustainable materials is also reshaping the industry, encouraging local suppliers to innovate and develop solutions that address industry requirements and environmental concerns. Supported by the Institute of Packaging SA (IPSA), Packaging SA, Plastics SA, and Printing SA, Propak Africa promises an unparalleled opportunity to explore many of these new technologies and materials. From sustainable packaging solutions and recyclability to the newest technologies in smart labelling, printing and advanced processing, attendees will discover a wealth of resources to enhance their business operations.
“The show will be more than double the size of the 2022 event, featuring over 500 exhibitors,” says Mark Anderson, portfolio director at Specialised Exhibitions, a division of Montgomery Group and organisers of the show. “Propak Africa is also home to four colocated events – Pro-Plas Expo, The GAPP Print Expo, FoodPro Expo, and Pro-Label Expo.”
Automation and digitisation will be significant themes at Propak Africa, not only for general packaging but also within the plastics, printing and processing sectors. Exhibitors will demonstrate cutting-edge technologies, from automated machinery to advanced materials, enabling companies to increase efficiency, sustainability, and cost-effectiveness across production lines.
SEMINARS AND CONFERENCES
Over the four-day event, Propak Africa will host a series of complimentary seminars where visitors can learn from industry specialists. Reflecting the show’s themed days, the diverse programme includes topics like industry innovations and technologies, recyclability and sustainability, and the recognition of local creativity and excellence, amongst others.
"The show will be more than double the size of the 2022 event, featuring over 500 exhibitors"
Complementing the seminars, IPSA will host three focused half-day conferences, adding depth and expertise to Propak Africa’s knowledge-sharing platform.
“To assist visitors in planning effectively, the OneMatch Business Networking Tool enables attendees
meetings with exhibitors. Additionally, the new WhatsApp Concierge Service at Propak Africa provides on-demand event information and live chat functionality for quick assistance, ensuring a smoother and more efficient visitor experience,” explains Anderson.
INNOVATION IN PACKAGING AND LABELLING
As a leader in the coding and labelling industry, Pyrotec is proud to showcase a range of innovative solutions at stand B32 in hall 6. The supplier will display
services, and live demonstrations that reflect its commitment to innovation and customer-centric solutions.
Experience the precision, speed, and versatility of Pyrotec’s advanced labelling and coding machinery. Designed to meet the highest industry standards, these systems ensure efficiency, compliance, and adaptability for a variety of production environments.
Visitors will be able to view label samples from its Pyrotec PackMedia division, including the renowned multilayer labels and on-pack promotional devices.
Buyer’sguide
These solutions combine functionality and creativity, enabling brands to engage customers and communicate effectively through packaging. This division will also showcase merchandising solutions, including the Klip Strip and Do-It® Hang Tabs. These innovative tools enhance retail displays by improving product visibility, maximising shelf space, and driving consumer attention, ensuring your products stand out in competitive retail environments.
The exhibitor will demo its Pyrotec PackLink software, which is a powerful production management tool that integrates coding and labelling equipment. It offers real-time monitoring, improved accuracy, and streamlined processes to optimise production line efficiency.
ADVANCED INSPECTION SOLUTIONS
The Techniques Group – comprising Automation Techniques, Detection Techniques, and Strato International – is a trusted provider of advanced inspection, printing, and equipment solutions for the pharmaceutical, personal care, food, beverage, and colour/textile industries.
across Sub-Saharan Africa. Its team provides 24/7/365 technical support, ensuring seamless operations will minimising downtime. Visit stand H18 in hall 6 to see how we the group can transform your production and quality control processes.
HIGH-PRECISION
METAL DETECTORS
Minebea Intec, a global manufacturer of industrial weighing and inspection technologies, will be exhibiting at ProPak Africa 2025 in collaboration with its local agent, Precision Control.
At stand D11 in hall 6, visitors can explore Minebea Intec’s comprehensive product portfolio, featuring solutions for checkweighing, foreign body detection, static and process weighing, as well as truck weighing. There will be live demonstration units showcasing the functionality and performance of Minebea Intec’s high-precision technologies.
For the detection and rejection of metal contaminated products, the supplier offers high-precision metal detectors for the assurance of product quality and consumer protection. Minebea Intec offers the Vistus®and Mitus® metal detection
systems. As a premium solution Mitus® has an even higher detection sensitivity than Vistus®. Both solutions can be integrated one-to-one with the conveyor, free-fall or pipeline systems available from Minebea Intec.
" Propak Africa is a key platform for us to connect with manufacturers in Southern Africa"
At Propak Africa 2025, the group will showcase cutting-edge technologies designed to enhance production efficiency, ensure regulatory compliance, and elevate quality control standards. These technologies include X-ray inspection, metal detection and checkweighing solutions; track and trace technology; and print coding and marking systems; and labelling and filling systems among other things.
With offices across South Africa, the Techniques Group serves customers
“Propak Africa is a key platform for us to connect with manufacturers in Southern Africa and to demonstrate how our advanced weighing and inspection technologies can enhance safety and productivity,” says Willy-Sebastian Metzger, director business development and marcom of Minebea Intec. “We are committed to providing the optimal equipment for precise weighing and inspection complemented by an outstanding local sales, support and service team from our trusted partner Precision Control. Together, we ensure our customers receive not just superior products but also the expertise and service they require to optimise their production processes.” •
Mitus metal detector from Minebea Intec
This metal detector is distributed by Automation Techniques
X-ray inspection system from the Techniques Group
Prime Product invests in a new tube filling machine
Prime Product Manufacturing, a leading name in the world of cosmetic and beauty product manufacturing, continues to strengthen its capabilities with the recent acquisition of the cutting-edge Nordenmatic 602 tube filling machine.
Facilitated by Pakmax, Norden Machinery's official distributor in South Africa, the acquisition of the new tube filling machine marks an exciting development for Prime Product Manufacturing. It is also a testament to the contract manufacturer’s commitment to innovation and precision in its production processes.
Excited about the new addition to its production line, Pierre Boshoff, general manager operations at Prime Product Manufacturing, says: The efficiency of the Nordenmatic 602 perfectly aligns with our
commitment to operation excellence. It’s a real game-changer in streamlining operations while boosting production flexibility.”
" The Nordenmatic 602 is a standout piece of filling equipment which brings significant value to South African manufacturers"
Prime Product Manufacturing specialises in developing consumer products for top brands with the technical expertise to develop novel formulations.
The manufacturer’s flexible yet focused approach supports the development of innovative products, which often set benchmarks in the industry. Leveraging the versatility of the Nordenmatic 602, Prime Product Manufacturing will enhance its production capabilities while addressing the diverse needs of its customers.
A STATE-OF-THE-ART MACHINE
The Nordenmatic 602 stands out for its flexibility, adeptly handling plastic, laminate and aluminium tubes. It can accommodate products with different viscosities such as liquid soaps, creams and sauces. With the capacity to fill up to 60 tubes per minute,
this state-of-the-art machine guarantees precision and uniformity, minimising waste and optimising cost-effectiveness.
According to Andrew Conti, owner of Pakmax, the Nordenmatic 602 is a standout piece of filling equipment which brings significant value to South African manufacturers. It offers a seamless blend of advanced technology and ease of use to optimise operations.
Prime Product Manufacturing holds several certifications, including ISO 22716 Cosmetics GMP and SANS 490. Once commissioned at its production facility, the automated Nordenmatic 602 tube filling machine will enhance the contract manufacturer’s production flexibility while delivering unparalleled value to brand owners in South Africa. •
Did you know?
You can experience the Nordenmatic 602 tube filling machine in action at Propak Africa 2025. Taking place from 11 to 14 March at the Johannesburg Expo Centre in Nasrec, visitors are invited to Pakmax’s exhibition stand (Hall 6, H22) for a demo of this cutting-edge tube filling machine. Following the show, the Nordenmatic 602 will be installed at Prime Product’s manufacturing facility.
Pakmax – www.pakmax.co.za
Prime Product Manufacturing –primeproductmanufacturing.com
The automated Nordenmatic 602 is ideal for medium-sized manufacturers looking to modernise production without compromising on performance
An integrated approach to sun care
Innovation is skincare is pivotal to sustain the South African cosmetics industry. Sun care products addressing environmental and UV damage are at the forefront of this innovation.
By Charmaine Du Preez of Chempure
With heightened awareness around skin health and appearance, protecting and repairing the barrier from factors like UV radiation, pollution and blue light are more critical than ever.
The skin barrier acts as the body’s first defense against external aggressors but is frequently compromised by environmental damage. Exposure to UV rays, pollution and blue light often results in dryness, irritation, premature ageing, wrinkles, and pigmentation. To combat this, sun care products, formulated with key ingredients, can hydrate, restore, and protect skin.
STRENGTHEN THE BARRIER
Two hero ingredients dominate in formulations that claim hydration and repair:
1. Saccharide Isomerate is a natural sugar-derived compound that works as a moisture magnet, ensuring long-lasting hydration. It strengthens the barrier, boosts elasticity, and alleviates dryness.
2. Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) is a powerful humectant that enhances skin’s ability to retain water. It
also soothes irritation and calms redness for improved resilience.
SHIELD SKIN WITH UV FILTERS
Advanced UV filters play a vital role in safeguarding skin from UVA and UVB rays, which are the primary culprits of sunburn and long-term photodamage.
"Advanced UV filters play a vital role in safeguarding skin from UVA and UVB rays"
These filters prevent barrier degradation caused by UV exposure, ensuring healthier and more resilient skin.
ANTIOXIDANT POWERHOUSES
Environmental aggressors like pollution and free radicals accelerate skin ageing. To counteract their effects, formulators incorporate powerful antioxidants into formulations. Options include: Leontopodium alpinum extract (Edelweiss) to neutralise free radicals while supporting the skin barrier.
• Tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) to nourish skin and reduce oxidative stress for enhanced radiance.
BLUE LIGHT DEFENSE
With the rise of digital lifestyles, blue light is a growing concern in skincare. Two innovative ingredients address this emerging issue:
1. Scenedesmus rubescens (algae extract) shields skin from blue light damage, reducing oxidative stress and preserving vitality.
2. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) brightens skin, reduces hyperpigmentation and fortifies the skin barrier against blue light.
A HOLISTIC APPROACH TO SKIN HEALTH
Leveraging the innovative ingredients discussed in this article, South African skincare brands can set the benchmark for radiant and wellprotected skin.
These ingredients, produced by dsm-firmenich and available in South Africa from Chempure, demonstrate an integrated approach to sun care which meets consumer demand for innovative, effective solutions tailored to protection from modern environmental aggressors. This shift underscores industry efforts to integrate science, sustainability and consumer wellbeing in the sun care category. •
Explore how the evolving suncare industry is shaping beauty routines worldwide. From sustainable formulations and inclusivity to cutting-edge scientific advancements, this editorial highlights the trends, challenges, and innovations redefining photoprotection.
Dive into the opportunities for creating multifunctional, eco-friendly solutions that prioritize health, performance, and environmental responsibility. Contact IMCD today for more information on how we can help you shape the future of suncare.
www.imcdsa.co.za
The sunification of skincare
Once considered a seasonal necessity, sun care products have become integral to daily skincare. With ingredients and formulation technologies from IMCD South Africa, brands can meet consumers’ needs for multifunctional, sustainable and health-conscious sun care products.
One of the latest cosmetics industry trends is the ‘sunification of skincare’ where advanced formulations combining UV filters and other active ingredients offer prolonged and robust sun protection, catering to consumers seeking enhanced protection from the sun.
Modern consumers demand multifunctional formulations that combine UV protection with additional benefits, such as anti-ageing, hydration and even makeup compatibility.
There is increased interest in hybrid products like tinted moisturisers with SPF or lightweight facial sunscreens, addressing the need for seamless integration into beauty regimens. South Korea has been a leader in this space, creating sensorial, lightweight formulas that appeal to global markets.
BREAKTHROUGH ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
Consumers are continuing to take a minimalistic approach to beauty by embracing multifunctional products and demanding more skincare benefits. To help
formulators meet these needs, IMCD South Africa provides a comprehensive basket of ingredients for sun care applications.
DermaForce IQ from BCR provides a trifecta of bio-components to supercharge the skin with energy and radiance. Its function is to interfere with the vicious cycles of mitochondrial dysfunction, boosting antioxidant defences and improving the skin with essential nutrients to keep it energised.
" Environmental consciousness is reshaping the sun care landscape "
Pro Soleil BCR, also from BCR, is a skin defence extract delivering a variety of protective benefits to sun care and daily skin care products. It combines the synergistic activity of coconut, rice bran and Japanese knotweed extracts.
This extract protects the skin against the phototoxic effects of UV radiation and delivers antioxidants to help reduce oxidative stress in the skin.
Physavie from Chemyunion is a vegetal active extracted from Physalis angulata , a plant found in tropical regions where the sunlight incidence is more intense. It protects skin against the infrared rays and visible light responsible for increasing skin’s temperature, which leads to a thermal ageing.
G+C Complex CLR from CLR
Berlin provides essential support to skin’s cells. It acts on UV-induced immunosuppression and brings balance to the cell’s circadian rhythm, allowing for effective DNA repair. G+C Complex CLR induces the repair of persistent CPD mutations and increases the longevity and healthy functionality of skin cells.
ECO-CONSCIOUS
CHOICES IN SUN PROTECTION
Environmental consciousness is reshaping the sun care landscape. Consumers are increasingly concerned about the ecological footprint of their
beauty products, seeking reef-safe formulations and sustainable packaging.
Innovations such as biodegradable formulas and recycled or eco-friendly packaging solutions are becoming industry standards. Natural ingredients like red algae, known for its UVprotective properties, are gaining prominence as they combine efficacy with minimal environmental impact. Brands are also turning to biodegradable formulas and reef-safe ingredients to address the environmental challenges of sun protection.
OVERCOMING FORMULATION CHALLENGES
Formulating effective sun care products involves navigating a complex web of regulatory and consumer requirements. Broad-spectrum protection against UVA, UVB, and visible light is crucial to mitigate risks like premature ageing and skin cancer.
Advances in mineral sunscreens, such as micronised zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, have improved user experience by eliminating the white cast associated with older formulations.
Additionally, achieving photostability and maintaining a balance between efficacy and safety remain critical focal points of the industry.
SUN CARE FOR EVERY CONSUMER
Inclusivity is a growing priority in this category. Recent innovations address the specific needs of melanin-rich skin tones, challenging misconceptions that
Did you know?
Current sunscreen consumption statistics indicate that sunscreen usage is far higher for Caucasian consumers compared to consumers who are Black, Asian or of Mixed ethnicity (BAME). This reveals a significant inclusivity issue within the beauty market which compels sunscreen brands to take a stand and ensure that their products cater to a racially diverse consumer base. It also highlights a unique opportunity for brands to broaden their target market. Source: Mintel, September 2024
darker skin types do not require sun protection.
Brands like MyBlockSkin offer SPF products that avoid white cast while targeting issues such as hyperpigmentation. This focus on inclusivity is expanding the market, ensuring that sun care is accessible and effective for all.
INNOVATIONS SHAPING THE FUTURE
Emerging trends are pushing sun care beyond traditional boundaries. Photoprotection is now extending into makeup, hair care and body care, creating multifunctional products that simplify routines while enhancing benefits. For example, sunscreens infused in foundations or hair mists with SPF are growing in popularity.
Scientific advancements, such as the development of mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) inspired by natural UV filters in algae, promise to revolutionise the category by offering eco-friendly and highly effective alternatives to traditional chemical filters.
ENHANCED CONSUMER EXPERIENCE
As consumers seek enjoyable and convenient solutions, the industry is focusing on textures and formats that enhance user experience.
Lightweight, non-greasy formulations, transparent finishes, and innovative delivery methods like sprays and sticks cater to modern preferences. The emphasis on designing products with smooth application and minimal residue ensures that sun protection fits seamlessly into daily routines.
ECONOMIC AND HEALTH CONSIDERATIONS
Balancing affordability with advanced technology remains a common challenge for brands and manufacturers. While high SPF formulations and specialided ingredients can drive up costs, consumers are willing to invest in products that align with their values and deliver visible results.
Health concerns also play a pivotal role, with brands prioritising non-toxic, hypoallergenic ingredients and ensuring minimal absorption of potentially harmful compounds.
THE ROAD AHEAD
The sun care market is witnessing significant growth, projected to reach $22.8 billion by 2032. This expansion underscores the importance of continuous innovation to meet evolving consumer demands. From microbiome-friendly SPF boosters to ultralong UVA protection, the possibilities are vast.
Future advancements may also include SPF formulations tailored to specific skin tones, innovative delivery systems, and the incorporation of mood-boosting elements into products.
In a world where photoprotection is more than a necessity, there is immense opportunity for brands to redefine beauty and care. The next wave of innovation promises to integrate sun protection across all aspects of personal care, setting new benchmarks for safety, performance and environmental responsibility. The future of sun care holds immense potential to transform daily beauty routines into experiences that prioritise personal health while safeguarding the planet. •
IMCD South Africa – www.imcdsa.co.za
Steps to halt microbial growth
Feel protected and confident
Whatever the day has in store and regardless of our differences, we all want to face it with confidence, while feeling good in our own skin. This feeling can however be challenging when we must battle axillary body malodour. Petra Biehl, Sebastian Herkersdorf and Alexander Thiemann of Evonik share ideas on how to prevent unpleasant odour using smart anti-microbial technologies.
Although body odours vary significantly based on gender, age, ethnicity, health, emotional state, lifestyle, and genetics, they are produced by the metabolic activity of human skin bacteria from originally odourless sweat. As described in the article published in P&C Review July 2024, Good choices against bad odour, different mechanisms exist to address this challenge.
The immediate prevention of odour formation through absorption and selective elimination of malodour-causing bacteria is complemented by on-demand mechanisms for long-term odour prevention by targeting underlying processes. Bacterial growth relies on the enzymatic breakdown of sweat, which leads to the occurrence of volatile molecules that are ultimately perceived as axillary malodours. The bacteria, known as main cause of underarm body odour, produce particularly high level of lipases (enzymes). Their lipid-degrading activity is key to our two technologies discussed in this article.
ENZYME INHIBITOR TARGETING THE BACTERIAL TOOLS
The natural lipase-inhibiting ingredient, dermofeel® TEC eco (INCI: Triethyl Citrate) enhances efficacy precisely when and to the extent needed. It is a colourless liquid
with 100% active matter. This enzyme inhibitor can be used in emulsions, aqueous and hydro-alcoholic systems (i.e. sprays, roll-ons and wet wipe solutions). It is coldprocessable and 100% naturally derived.
Citrate
Table 1: Natural Milky Deo Roll-On
components – ethanol and citric acid. This local cleavage, occurring near the odour-causing bacteria, inhibits lipases and reduces the population of lipase-producing bacteria. Consequently, odour prevention is prolonged. This odour prevention activity was tested in vitro using an aqueous solution with 5% Triethyl Citrate.
The reduction of Corynebacterium xerosis, a relevant germ in the formation of underarm body odour, was monitored by determination of viable bacteria and compared to a vehicle formulation without Triethyl Citrate. The formulation with 5% Triethyl Citrate significantly reduced the number of C. xerosis bacteria compared to the vehicle formulation.
ANTIMICROBIAL ON-DEMAND ACTIVITY – AIM PRECISELY
To extend odour prevention, dermosoft® G 3 CY MB (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate) complements the immediate action of the other ingredients with on-demand antimicrobial activity. This 100% naturally derived liquid reduces the population of odour-causing bacteria that re-grow over time. dermosoft® G 3 CY MB is activated when there is an
increase in bacterial growth. This ensures that its impact on the microbiome and skin is precisely as strong as needed, adapting to current conditions.
The on-demand antimicrobial is activated by bacterial lipases, which are enzymes abundantly produced by odour-causing bacteria. Its effect is targeted and occurs locally in the vicinity of the odour-causing organisms.
"The targeted, on-demand effect of dermosoft® G 3 CY MB allows for better odour reduction"
An in vitro assay measuring the decrease of the bacterial lipase activity has shown that the targeted, on-demand effect of dermosoft® G 3 CY MB allows for better odour reduction, using less antimicrobial substance. Lipases are reduced to a greater extent than bacteria, which is the result of a localised, targeted effect against those
bacteria that are responsible for axillary odour formation. Other bacteria are less affected by this selectivity mechanism of dermosoft® G 3 CY MB.
FROM IDEAS TO MARKET-READY FORMULATIONS
The formulation Natural Milky Deo Roll-On shown in table 1 is a great combination of deodorant ingredients with different working mechanisms in one formulation.
On the one hand it contains the on-demand enzyme-inhibitor dermofeel® TEC eco and the on-demand anti-microbial dermosoft® G 3 CY MB. On the other, it incorporates the immediately acting odour-absorber TEGODEO® PY 88 G (INCI: Zinc Ricinoleate) and the immediately acting anti-microbial dermosoft® decalact deo MB
(INCI: Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate; Triethyl Citrate; Salvia Officinalis Oil). By combining all these steps, consumers can feel confident and protected, no matter what the day holds for them. •
Evonik Personal Care –personal-care.evonik.com
Sunscreen evolution balancing protection and sustainability
The winner of this year’s Coschem cosmetic science course/P&C Review essay prize is Liz Visser. To acknowledge Liz’s achievement, her essay on the topic ‘ The Evolution of Sunscreen: From UV Protection to Full-Spectrum Care’, is published in this student focus. Liz also received a prize sponsored by P&C Review.
The biggest and hottest object in the centre of our solar system is the sun. It is essential for all life on earth (The Sun, 2018). Our daily routines are intertwined with the sun, waking up to sunrise and winding down for dinner as the sun sets. Humans are drawn to the sun without being consciously aware of it.
As Bruce Y. Lee says: “Being in the sun is like going to parties –too much ages your skin, yet too little can age inside you like your bones”. Protection from the sun has become a necessity and our greatest safeguard comes in the form of cosmetic products like sunscreens. These products have evolved throughout history to accommodate consumer demand, from basic UV protection to full-spectrum care, highlighting the importance of broad-spectrum protection. Whilst this is noteworthy, the demand for further advances in sun care persists. The drive to protect our environment and create sustainable products has been one of the greatest demands of humanity.
recordings of man roughly 300 000 BC (Drissi, Carr and Housewright, 2021). Our African ancestors paved the way for sun protection in early times, due to their dark skin providing them with natural melanin that protected them from the sun. The slow migration to cooler and northern climates with low levels of sun radiation, inevitably caused the loss of natural pigmentation and protection. During this era, light skin became more desirable and affiliated to status and upper class. Egyptians used natural ingredients like rice bran, jasmine and lupine on their skin to block tanning effects, while the Greeks used olive oil to protect their skin from the sun and as an after-sun solution post exposure. Japan and other global countries remain focused on skin whitening using lead or mercury based cosmetic products.
A LOOK THROUGH THE HISTORICAL LENS
It's hard to imagine a time when access to sun care products was limited. Yet this notion is very new in the category’s historical timeline. In 1891, 133 years ago, the first chemical sunscreen was recommended for sun and UV protection by Dr Hammer of Stuttgart, Germany. This marked a pivotal point in the evolution of sunscreen.
The sun protection journey is as old as time and can be dated back to the earliest
It was in 1798 that Robert Willan documented the skin condition ‘eczema solare’, or sensitivity to light (Drissi, Carr and Housewright, 2021), which we know today as sun burn. Shortly after this, discoveries were made by Johan Wilhem Ritter on UV radiation. Some 80 years later, Erik Johan Widmark published a landmark study that experimentally proved UV radiation causes skin erythema and burns (Drissi, Carr and Housewright, 2021). This was followed by recommendations by Dr Hammer two years later on the use of a chemical sunscreen product for UV protection and prevention of ‘eczema solare’, by preparing an ointment containing quinine.
From this point onwards, the evolution of sun care sped up with significant findings
during the 1900s. Dr Paul Unna described an association between sun exposure and skin cancer, leading to his development of a sunscreen containing chestnut extract. But the formulation was thick and unpleasant, indicating the start of consumer perception and the challenge in developing an aesthetically pleasing product.
In 1920, a contradictory trend arises inspired by Coco Chanel, who popularises the idea of tanning and ‘sunbathing’. (Drissi, Carr and Housewright, 2021) Tanned skin suddenly became a sign of health and class, setting a precedent in the Western beauty culture. Although the trend remains in Western culture, it hasn’t permeated African and Asian countries where lighter skin is still a status symbol. This introduced the need for sunscreens to target diversity, providing the same protection to different skin types with different aesthetic outcomes. In response to this, L’Oreal’s Eugene Schueler developed the first tanning oil with UV radiation filtering properties using the active ingredient benzyl salicylate. This product promoted faster tanning without burning, and is still found on retail shelves today.
" The sun protection journey is as old as time "
When the Swiss chemist Franz Greiter got sunburnt whilst climbing Mt. Piz Buin, he was inspired to create the first modern sunscreen containing zinc oxide and petrolatum which he named after the mountain Piz Buin. This well-known brand is also still available today. (Drissi, Carr and Housewright, 2021)
Greiter is also credited for inventing the sun protection factor (SPF) rating. This became
globally accepted and defined as ‘the ratio of UV energy needed to produce a minimal erythemal dose on protected to unprotected skin’. SPF remains the standard testing method for sunscreen formulations today, with consumers now accustomed to the SPF rating of their products.
The 1900s saw significant changes in sunscreen development. The US Army Airforce commissions the American Medical Association Council of Pharmacy and Chemistry to conduct a secret experiment to determine the most effective substance to prevent soldiers from getting sunburnt. They discover that dark red veterinary petroleum is effective in providing inexpensive, waterproof and non-toxic sun protection (Drissi, Carr and Housewright, 2021). This inspired soldier and pharmacist, Benjamin Green to create a more consumer-friendly version of the product by adding ingredients like cocoa butter and coconut oil. This paved the way for Coppertone suntan lotion, which is still available today.
With the 20 th century came a new era of information and skin education. Access to the internet and technology completely changed consumer perception, driving conscious beauty movement of today. Research clearly defined the effects of the sun and the significance of UVA and UVB protection. In 2007, the International Agency for Research on Cancer published a landmark study confirming the link between tanning beds and melanoma. (Drissi, Carr and Housewright, 2021). Consumer awareness and the demand for broad spectrum sunscreen reached a high point, shifting the importance of sun protection from occasional holiday use to a daily need.
CORAL BLEACHING RAISES
SUSTAINABILITY CONCERNS
In 2008, the sun care market faced the start of a major challenge, Danovaro et al. published the first study describing the potential role of sunscreen ingredients in coral bleaching in areas where there are high levels of human recreational use (Drissi, Carr and Housewright, 2021). This catapulted consumer awareness to the impact their cosmetic products have on the environment and their personal health (Ducharme, 2023). In subsequent years, the demand for transparency from brands increased along with clarity on formulation ingredients. Whilst the cosmetic industry has always relied on natural ingredients, the sustainability of ingredients was questioned. More evidence came to the forefront on
animal testing and animal cruelty, and the unsustainable demands of ingredients leading to deforestation, habit destruction and biodiversity loss (GGI Insights, 2024). With this came the transition from traditional cosmetic products to cleaner, sustainable and safer formulations.
These challenges were specific to sunscreens – all cosmetic products faced them. Due to the increase in multifunctional products, many skin products had sun protection as an added benefit. All products were scrutinised on ingredient sustainability, environmental impact and their response to consumers’ needs. This gave rise to the ecofriendly, natural, sustainable, biodegradable and cruelty-free products that line retail shelves today (Nell-Roberts, 2023).
Marine pollution by sunscreens remains centre stage. After a resident of the U.S. Virgin Islands noticed an oily, iridescent sheen lingering on the surface of the water subsequent to the departure of a massive group of tourists, the first publication by Danovaro et al. was released indicating sun care ingredients cause coral bleaching. The global reality led to further studies finally confirming the toxic effects of certain ingredients found in sunscreens (Sunscreen pollution - MarineSafe, 2016).
Besides washing off swimmers and surfers into the ocean, these ingredients were detected in human urine within 30 minutes of application, implying that even through wastewater, coral reefs were being affected. In 2013 and 2016 a team of international scientists discovered alarming evidence that confirmed oxybenzone induces coral bleaching, damages coral DNA and induces severe and lethal deformities
(Sunscreen chemicals and coral reefs, no date).
Oxybenzone was also found to be toxic to algae, fish, sea urchins and mammals. In recent studies it is indicated that humans with high concentrations of benzophenones showed decreases in fertility. Benzophenone-2 and Benzophenone-3 have been classified as toxic and linked to cancer, endocrine disruption and organ toxicity. In 2018, these staple chemical sunscreen ingredients were banned in many countries, but can still be found in products today. Research continues on these ingredients as further studies are required.
MINERAL VERSUS CHEMICAL SUNSCREENS
With this controversy facing the suncare market, many formulators and brands are turning to mineral sunscreens as a solution. Mineral sunscreens are physical and sit on top of the skin reflecting UVA and UVB rays. Traditional chemical sunscreens are absorbed into the skin and absorbs UV rays before filtering them out of the skin.
Mineral sunscreens are made up of natural actives, mainly zinc oxide or are combined
P&C Review editor, Abby Vorster with Liz Visser at the Coschem cosmetic science course prize giving
"Natural sunscreens are yet to achieve the high SPF ratings of chemical sunscreens"
with titanium dioxide. The debate continues in the scientific community on whether mineral sunscreens are as effective as chemical sunscreens. Science claims chemical sunscreens remain more effective, however mineral sunscreens are safer in many ways (Trudy, 2019). Natural sunscreens are yet to achieve the high SPF ratings of chemical sunscreens. Their efficacy relies heavily on the correct application and consumer education. Mineral sunscreens should be reapplied more frequently than chemical sunscreens. Changing consumer behaviour is also important to prevent consumers from not wearing sunscreen at all to save marine life.
The challenge with natural sunscreen exists in a lack of scientific backing. While early studies show they are friendly on coral reefs and effective on skin, there is still a long way to go. A misconception exists that natural or organic options are safer, which is not always the case (Hamblen, 2022). Many natural ingredients are still harmful to marine life, noncoated nanoparticles of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide can be toxic to coral reef and their organisms due to their miniscule size and interaction with cells. They can also cause oxidative stress in sunlight. The use of plant based oils like neem, eucalyptus and lavender oils in organic sunscreens have been suggested to have relative toxicity to invertebrates. Other ingredients like beeswax can be contaminated with fungicides and insecticides. For marine safety reasons, all organic and natural ingredients should
be subject to toxicological testing. Many alternative ingredients like silicone polymers and organosilicon compounds are of concern as they are not biodegradable. So they can also be damaging to marine life and edible fish. Preservatives at low concentrations have been shown to be toxic to shrimp and sea urchins. However, it is difficult to know the full impact of these ingredients without further testing.
Consumer education, brands and ingredient manufacturers alike all have a responsibility to make further advancements. Brands are faced with direct pressure from consumers to do better and provide better cosmetic sunscreens that do not harm our environment.
THE FUTURE OF SUN CARE LOOKS BRIGHT
Ingredient suppliers are at the forefront of providing environmentally friendly solutions to manufacturers and brand owners. The current challenges with mineral sunscreens are ensuring the correct particle size zinc and titanium dioxides are provided for sunscreen development, and that ingredients are sustainably sourced and not tested on animals. Where possible all ingredients used for sun care should go through strict toxicological testing.
The biggest challenge with titanium dioxide is the white or ashy residue on the skin especially visible on darker skins. This can be combatted with tinted sunscreens and many
ingredient suppliers are working on more innovative versions of titanium dioxide to prevent the white residue. Many innovative ingredients are being launched to target these challenges. Examples include new dispersion technology to combat titanium dioxide challenges, and ingredients that meet regulatory requirements while providing efficacy to consumers.
Whilst the market faces many challenges in its evolution to mineral and safer sunscreens, one can only admire the developments in sun care when exploring its history. The foundation of sun protection education is built on natural beginnings to chemical protection, and now we find ourselves looking back at nature for answers in our quest to protect humans and the environment. The importance of broad spectrum sun care will remain a necessity but further long-term studies need to be done on the ingredients we use and how they affect our health and the environment. The new era of sunscreens is exciting and challenging. Hopefully store shelves will soon be filled with the ideal sunscreen. •
References available on request
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Liz Visser is the sales and marketing manager of Essential Specialised Products
