FRAGRANCES
How to keep a fragrance fabulous forever
Oxynex ST may just be a formulators dream come true. Not only are the essential elements in any cosmetic formulation protected, such as the fragrance, vitamins, active ingredients and UV filters, but there are also a whole host of well-supported skin care claims that can be made. Karen Maier, head of performance materials at Merck South Africa, explains. substances and is
DID YOU KNOW?
Superior stabilisation
stee Lauder once said, ‘perfume
Chemical deterioration Oxynex ST liquid not is an auto-oxidative process caused by action protecting fragrances only offers protection of oxygen in air and can from unwanted for fragrances, but also lead to rancidity. Adding antioxidants to your changes in colour stabilises dyes, vitamins formulations will inhibit the or smell. auto-oxidation process, and UV filters – at a helping to stabilise The DESM in Oxynex relatively low concentration. and protect your formulations. ST is a unique molecule, For fragrances, the
is like a new dress. It makes
which, with its specific
you quite simply marvellous’.
structure, ensures light stability.
However, a creased new dress,
DESM has a sterically stabilised phenolic
particularly capable of
E
recommended addition rate is 0.5 percent whereas it can be as low as 0.1 one for dyes.
or perfume that has gone stale, could
function as well as the benzylidene
destroy the feeling of marvelousness in
malonate function. Together these two
able to show that Oxynex ST liquid has
an instant.
functions support the stabilisation of light
superior stabilisation compared to
sensitive ingredients.
traditional photo-stabilisers. For example,
Formulators often face serious challenges when formulating with light-
The phenolic function provides the
In various studies, Merck has been
the photo-induced degradation of
sensitive ingredients and fragrance
antioxidant functionality, the benzylidene
is among the most challenging.
malonate function is a photo-stabiliser
Fortunately, there is a solution –
and a triplet energy quencher and the
solution of 0.1 percent Vanillin and
Diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate
carbon chain residues of the molecule
approximately 0.5 percent DESM was
(DESM), the active ingredient in Oxynex
ensure hydrophobicity, making this a
measured at λmax 281nm.
ST liquid. DESM provides highly effective
processible liquid which is miscible
stabilisation of light-sensitive cosmetic
with oil.
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| MARCH 2020 | P C Review
Vanillin was investigated photometrically. The light absorption of an ethanolic
Data clearly demonstrates a significant improvement in the photostability of
