INGREDIENTS Charles Granatell and
John Gormley of Grant
Industries, resolve common misconceptions on ingredient safety and efficacy, to drive sustainable and ethical innovation.
Rethink clean beauty with silicones
I
t might seem like a simple
choose essential oils. Indeed, a number
Certain allergens and harmful irritants
question, but why do people buy
of studies suggest atopic dermatitis has
can be disguised by natural ingredients.
natural products?
been on the rise since the ’60s, possibly
It’s up to brands and retailers to protect
According to a report by Denise
due to environmental agents.2 But that’s
consumers by providing factual information.
Herich of The Benchmarking Company, 68 percent of consumers buy natural
not the entire story.
‘The entire beauty industry needs to be
‘Natural’ is implicitly equated with
transparent,’ adds Arriagada.
and organic products.1 Of those
safety, yet, ironically, essential oils are
surveyed, 95 percent said they buy more
a quintessential example of natural
A case in point for silicones
natural products than they did 10 years
ingredients laden with allergens. Even
Consider this – there is an inert, non-reactive
ago. At the same time, 95 percent of consumers surveyed cite product efficacy as the most important factor when they choose products. As a result, the cosmetics market is evolving to support priorities like safety, performance and responsibility.
DID YOU KNOW?
jojoba oil, ubiquitous in ‘sensitive’ products, is a proven source of contact dermatitis and
sensitisation . Still, the The European Union recently took steps to provide majority of consumers some transparency, requiring are unaware that natural brands to list commonly ingredients can cause identified allergens on severe reactions. their ingredient listings. 3
Industry transparency and messaging
ingredient to help boost formulation aesthetics by providing incredible sensorial aspects without irritating the skin.4 This ingredient is both safe and compliant, even with Sephora’s clean beauty standards.5 Of course, we’re talking about silicones. Silicones are derived from quartz, commonly known as sand, which makes them inherently sustainable. Because they’re never animal derived, they are vegan and cruelty free by default. Their
Safe and eco-friendly?
It’s so important that marketers,
palm free status alleviates any concern
The benefit of natural products is they’re
R&D teams, suppliers and retailers
about whether a product contains
generally considered ‘better for the
collaborate to develop quality content
unsustainable or unethically sourced palm
environment’ by consumers – though
to educate consumers while pushing
derivatives. Silicones are also GMO-free,
this may not always be the case.
back against alarmism, which
colourless, odourless and non-ionic, with no
Theoretically, these products align with
unnecessarily ignites fear. Alarmism
oxidation issues.
the goals of consumers concerned with
spreads rapidly on social media,
the toxicity and pollution of rinse-off
exaggerating danger and causing
consumers is not whether an ingredient or
products in water systems and oceans.
misinformation to flourish.
product is 100 percent organic, but whether
While natural products may sometimes
‘You want a product to be both
What is in fact a valuable characteristic for
it’s 100 percent safe to use on their skin, their
be safer for the environment, the
efficacious and safe,’ comments
question remains whether they’re safer
Margarita Arriagada, former chief
grandmother’s skin, or baby’s skin.
for human health?
merchant of Sephora. ‘But just
and gentle ingredients known to humans,
Silicones are some of the most innocuous
If you ask 500 people, ‘what would you
because something is natural, doesn’t
evidenced by nearly 70 years of research
rather put on your skin – pure silicones or
necessarily mean it’s good for you. The
and consumer use history.6 Due to their
pure essential oils’ the majority will likely
promised land is safe and effective.’
incredibly low incidence of allergies,
26 | JUNE 2019 | P C Review
