Page 1


July 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 7

Nutritional supplements redeveloped with compliance and

consumer safety in mind

SUN CARE: The protection and prevention ingredients Manufacturing tech enables factories of the future

Weighing in on the power of preservatives

. . . t n ga

e l E

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July 2018 | Volume 45 | Number 7

w w za



Novartis tables major GDP contributions in SA

A strong start to 2018 for Evonik

Symrise stays on track with sustainability targets


during pneumatic screening

What’s new in South Africa


Ensure operator safety

Attend Afriplex’s technical symposium


Unilever installs R50 million biomass boiler

New off-site warehouse for Aerosol & Cosmetics Works

Optimise production with Artificial Intelligence

How to ensure operator safety during API screening

Afrox Hi-Q gases for specialised applications

More 26 than routine protection is needed for sun care in Africa


Nimue reveals industry first with Micah technology

Kalichem offers a clear alternative to TiO2

Category insight and formulation solutions

Millennials and sun protection

New polymer increases SPF efficiency


UV, blue light and IR protection from Lipotec

Improve metabolic syndrome with Metabolaid

Stabil-Lab: a new, independent stability storage facility

34 PRESERVATIVES CPC from Vertellus – an ideal alternative to MIT

Bridge the gap between natural and allopathic medicine

Chemyunion expands Hebeatol range of antimicrobials

A united focus on safe and appropriate regulations

43 The third gREVIEW degree on label Packagin W hat’s hot Volum July 2018 |

e 44 | Number



coverage www.pharma


in inks tive and decora finishes

45 Inks & Print Finishes

Solutions to transform ordinary packaging

46 Labelling:

Shrink Sleeves

ISW leads the 360° revolution


sleeves: Shrinrk360 ˚ shelf You shout solution

ay Bosch steps aw g from packagin

The latest news from GBMSA, MCA, Coschem and the HPA

P C Review | JULY 2018 |



From the editor


Time to

EDITORIAL Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038



he global healthcare, beauty

Assistant Editor: Aarifah Nosarka +27 (0)11 877 6209 Layout & Design: Kirsty Thomas Contributors: Jessica Byrd, Jon Fedders, Jill Gardiner, Kinjal Joshi, Raj Naidoo ADVERTISING

While we’re experiencing a truly cold winter,

and food markets are converging

we cannot forget about sun protection and

into a new consumer products

the newer concept of blue light protection.

category identified as ‘wellcare’

Innovation is a major driver of the new

by PwC’s strategy consulting team. This

technologies featured in our bumper sun

category focuses on a combination of

care feature on page 22. These include

aspects from wellness and fitness to beauty

Hallstar’s Micah, which offers a novel path

and environmental sustainability. It also

to protection; Croda’s Solaveil Clarus

encompasses a broad range of brands

range of UV filters for transparent sunscreen

and manufacturers from various industries,

products for the African market; and DSM’s

such as consumer healthcare, FMCG,

drive to improve sun protection awareness

biopharmaceuticals and medical devices.

among millennials.

Through collaboration these industries are

In our preservatives feature on page 34,

Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694

well positioned to offer consumers integrative

we introduce you to two new antimicrobials

Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318

beauty and healthcare solutions, yet a

recently launched on the global market. CPC,


tendency to operate in silos still exists in

part of the Freshstat family of ingredients from

South Africa.

Vertellus offers an ideal alternative to MIT,

Integrated healthcare is the underlying

while Chemyunion’s Hebeatol CG broadens

theme in this edition’s pharma focus. On

the palette of preservatives available

page 38, we look at how the CAMs and

to formulators.

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 PUBLISHING TEAM General Manager: Dev Naidoo

Bosch’s breaking news to step away from

Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281

to enhance healthy living with safe and

selling packaging machinery and equipment

Production Controller: Rae Morrison

effective products. Yet ongoing regulatory

is featured in our regular Packaging

Art Director: David Kyslinger

challenges are stifling innovation.

Review section on 43. Aarifah Nosarka also


discusses new inks and finishes to take your

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146

health supplements industry is well positioned

If you’re looking for new technology for your manufacturing plant or are interested in

packaging from mainstream to luxurious

the developments at some of the industry’s

and how shrink sleeves offer so much more

leading personal care manufacturers, our

than straightforward self-

process and manufacturing technology

adhesive labels.

feature has all the inside info. Turn to page 16 now to read about Unilever’s new biomass

Published on behalf of Media24 by New Media Publishing (PTY) Ltd. MANAGING DIRECTOR Aileen Lamb

Enjoy the read.

boiler, Aerosol & Cosmetics Works’ recent


purchase of an off-site warehouse and high

Bridget McCarney

containment pharma screening solutions.



HEAD OFFICE New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 Email: PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051


Dr Trevor Baillie

Past-President, Society of Cosmetic Chemists SA

Prof Dr Aubrey Parsons

John Knowlton

CEO of the Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa

Professor Emeritus, Faculty of Health Sciences, Nelson Mandela University

Vivian Frittelli

Prof N T (Raj) Naidoo

P C Review is the official journal of: CTFA - The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Frangrance Association of South Africa GBM - Generic and Biosimilar Medicines of Southern Africa


Consultant, Cosmetic Solutions

| JULY 2018 | P C Review

COSCHEM - The Society of Cosmetic Chemists of South Africa HPA - The Health Products Association of Southern Africa AMA - The Aerosol Manufacturers’ Association of South Africa

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is published by New Media Publishing 11 times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review is printed and bound by CTP Printers - Cape Town. Copyright: all rights reserved. ISSN 0257-8719


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NOVARTIS PUMPS MILLIONS INTO SA’S GDP ALREADY HEAVILY INVESTED in science and healthcare development partnerships across the continent, Novartis contributes around US$150 million to South African GDP each year. This is according to the company’s new CEO, Vasant (Vas) Narasimhan. During his first visit to Ghana, Kenya and South Africa in his new role, Narasimhan outlined financial, environmental and social (FES) impact valuation results for South Africa based on 2017 data. The evaluation indicated a total GDP contribution of US$149 million, with a US$67 direct and US$37 million indirect

s along side Minister Davie and Aspen’s ad Sa en ph Ste nager, capability ma an at the Branson Bosm launch in Aspen facilit y Port E lizabeth

GDP contribution including purchases from vendors along the entire supply chain. The company’s total employment impact exceeds 5 900 jobs in South Africa, with an indirect employment impact of 1 600 jobs. It also delivers a significant positive human capital impact, enhancing the skills and knowledge of healthcare professionals, as well as multiple programmes to build medical research capacity in South Africa. These initiatives include


contributes about 0.48 percent

Industry, Dr Rob Davies recently

to the GDP, playing a small

launched Aspen’s high containment

part in the economy and

facility in Port Elizabeth, Eastern

providing employment for about

Cape. Apart from welcoming a new

9 600 people.

era in pharma manufacturing in

‘When we look at global

South Africa, the plant will create an

manufacturing value chains, South

additional 240 jobs.

Africa will be better off if we are

The High Containment Suite

involved in the production of value

(HCS) Unit 4, together with the

added products, even if it is just

investment in a sterile facility,

basic manufacturing rather than

stemmed from a partnership

simply importing,’ he added.

between the Department of

Apsen group chief executive,

Trade and Industry (dti) and

Stephen Saad said Aspen is a

Apsen. The multinational pharma

serial investor in the South African

manufacturer benefitted from

pharmaceutical industry. The

the dti 12i tax incentive with a tax

company is particularly pleased

credit of about R209 million.

that its Capex investment into the

Speaking at the launch, Minister

South African market over the past

Davies said the new plant was a

two years has out-stripped the

significant investment that creates

investments made into the industry

the necessary jobs South Africa

over the past decade.

needs in the manufacturing sector. ‘If we look at the

‘We are pleased that over 90 percent of the jobs that will

pharmaceutical industry, South

be created in the new facility will

Africa’s population is the largest

be local jobs, mostly drawn from

consumer of pharmaceutical

surrounding communities such

products. When we look at some

as New Brighton Township. These

of these statistics, I think we can

employees will go on to become

see there are huge challenges

world class, highly skilled people,

in that we have a huge trade

who can hold their own anywhere

deficit of around R20 billion. This

and, in most facilities, globally.

means we import R20 billion of

A further aspect of our DNA,

pharmaceutical products than we

particularly in pursuit of creating

export,’ said Davies.

a better country, is partnering

The pharma industry from a manufacturing perspective


| JULY 2018 | P C Review

with government where possible,’ Saad concluded.

the young physicians’ skills development programme, funding post-graduate studies in clinical epidemiology at Stellenbosch University; the Next Generation Scientist programme at the University of KwaZulu-Natal; partnering on the MSc. in regulatory sciences at the University of the Western Cape and Hibernia College; clinical trials capability building with the University of Cape Town; young scientist training in genetic research in collaboration with Wits University and drug discovery and clinical trials. These clinical trials amount to 28 and involve 1 602 patients across 163 trial sites in the private and public sector. Novartis reached over 667 000 patients in 2017 through its 18 innovative medicines brands and over 5.4 million patients through the nine Sandoz brands, which deliver trusted and affordable products in key treatment areas. The environmental and social return on investment of all Novartis FES initiatives is approximately 300 percent. ‘Over the years in South Africa, Novartis has illustrated its commitment to benefiting patients, the healthcare sector and the economy as a whole,’ says Narasimhan. These efforts are being stepped up on an ongoing basis. According to Novartis South Africa’s country president, Dr Thomas Kowallik, with its three divisions across innovative medicines for pharma and oncology, Sandoz and Alcon, the company has been active in South Africa for over 70 years. Within that time, it has developed a strong clinical trial footprint in the country. Boipelo Mothupi, Novartis SA’s medical sales rep, public sector, public affairs; Vas Narasimhan and Mandla Magwaza, Novartis SA’s business admin learner, human resources


Givaudan Active Beauty has created a range of fine fragrances formulated with Revivyl to protect skin microflora

Sweet-Orr launches local protective clothing showroom A MARKET LEADER in protective clothing,

quality and innovative workwear. It ranges

Sweet-Orr has opened a first of its kind

extend from utility casual and denim to essential

showroom in Boksburg, Gauteng, at the Terminal

and highly specialised protective wear. Sweet-

Lifestyle Centre.

Orr has truly made a name for itself with its

Sweet-Orr believes that everyone should be

acid repellent, flame retardant and flame acid

and protective clothing, which is the inspiration

garments, specially developed for low, medium

behind the launch of the local showroom. It

and high risk environments.

will stock Sweet-Orr’s specialised range and its essential and utility workwear. ‘We are passionate about ensuring individual


innovative specialised range, which includes

able to easily access superior quality workwear

‘We’re looking forward to building a closer relationship with the people who wear our garments. Our new showroom gives us the

tradesmen and artisans have access to the

opportunity to do just that. Our motto is “we will

necessary garments and advice from expert

never let you down”, and we work hard to live up

staff. We believe that everyone deserves to

to it”,’ Jacobs adds.

be able to do their best work without putting

The showroom will be open between 08h30

themselves at risk,’ says John Jacobs, MD,

and 16h30 from Monday to Friday and 08h30 to

Sweet-Orr South Africa.

12h30 on Saturdays.

The 150m2 showroom has a fresh, modern appeal that combines Sweet-Orr’s African

Sweet-Orr’s new showroom in Boksburg has a modern look and feel

and American heritage and is centrally located for easy private and industrial sector

A RANGE OF new fine fragrances crafted with

to access. ‘We’ve worked hard to create an

Givaudan Active Beauty’s award-winning

environment and experience that is premium

microbiome protecting ingredient, Revivyl, allows

and professional but also warm and welcoming,’

customers to express and protect their uniqueness.

says Denver Berman-Jacob, executive director,

We are all unique – it’s in our DNA. The

Sweet-Orr South Africa.

same applies to the skin microbiome. This

The company boasts one of the industry’s

is the inspiration behind Givaudan Active

most extensive and diverse selection of high

Beauty’s fine fragrance concept called [Yu], for ‘your uniqueness’. The company randomly selected 10 customers

fragrances based on the olfactive preferences of

Evonik reports a good start to 2018

each winner. These were then expertly combined


Free cash flow increased to €84 million (prior-

with Revivyl.

increased to €679 million in the first quarter,

year quarter: €57 million) as a result of lower

marking a significant increase of 14 percent

outflows for capital expenditures.

at the Givaudan Active Beauty 2017 VIP party to receive a unique gift – a customised fine fragrance that also protects their skin’s uniqueness. Givaudan Fine Fragrance perfumers crafted these

Each winner received their active perfume in personalised packaging along with their unique

year on year. All three chemicals segments

skin microbiome map.

contributed to the gain in earnings.

Fabrice Lefèvre, the company’s marketing and

‘We are consistently implementing our new

‘In the first quarter of 2018, business in the Middle East and Africa witnessed double digit growth compared to Q1 of the previous year.

innovation director, comments: ‘Givaudan Active

strategy,’ says Christian Kullmann, chairman

That is quite a good achievement, so a good

Beauty is constantly striving to combine active

of the executive board at Evonik. ‘With our

start into the year with enough room to improve

ingredients in revolutionary concepts. Beyond the

focus on innovation and performance oriented

further,’ comments Hendrik Schoenfelder,

concept of “exclusive skin microbiome protecting

corporate culture, we are consistently striving

president of Evonik Middle East and Africa.

fragrances”, we are creating new sources of

for profitable growth. Our goal is a balanced

inspiration for our industry. What if you could

portfolio focused on speciality chemicals.’

express how special you are by your fragrance

Sales grew one percent to €3.68 billion

Despite an increasingly negative currency effect, Evonik is reiterating its forecast and expects to grow sales and operating earnings

and protect your intrinsic uniqueness? These 10

in the first quarter, driven mainly by slightly

this year. Adjusted EBITDA is expected

perfumes are a perfect example of how we create

higher sales volumes as well as increased

to increase to between €2.4 billion and

solutions using the synergies between fragrances

selling prices. Currency effects, especially the

€2.6 billion (2017: €2.36 billion). Thanks

and Active Beauty.’

weaker US dollar, had a counter effect.

to its strong market positions and strategic

Givaudan is the first fragrance house to create

The adjusted EBITDA margin improved to

focus on its four growth engines: healthcare;

a personalised perfume that protects the skin

18.5 percent (prior-year quarter: 16.4 percent).

speciality additives; animal nutrition and smart

microbiota. In South Africa, The Care Co. is

Adjusted net income increased to €333 million

materials, Evonik anticipates demand will

Givaudan Active Beauty’s designated agent.

and adjusted earnings per share rose to €0.71.

remain high.

P C Review | JULY 2018 |



Claims – the devil is in the detail Another climate protection first for Symrise THE NUMBER OF companies with scientifically recognised climate targets exceeded 100 for the first time this year. The global Science Based Targets initiative (SBT) certifies the climate targets of interested market participants according to whether they are in line with current research and working to reduce CO2 emissions on par with the standards of the Paris Climate Agreement. Symrise is one of 12 German companies that have participated so far. The Holzminden-based business is ahead of its own schedule when it comes to implementation. In order to have their scientifically based climate targets recognised, the companies submit their plans to the SBT initiative, whose experts examine them in detail. So far, 389 large companies have undergone this test, including many worldrenowned brands. Companies from 23 countries are now pursuing science based climate protection targets. To be approved, interested parties must show their goals correspond to the current state of research. They must also realise the minimum savings necessary (relative to their sector and size) to meet the global objectives of the Paris Agreement. The initiative is supported by the WWF, the UN Global Compact, the Carbon Disclosure Project and the World Resource Institute – an organisation dedicated to environmental protection and resource conservation. A total of 57 of the 103 companies verified so far are from Europe. Only a few German companies can be found on this list. Just 12 companies from Germany have submitted their plans to the initiative and only three of them have received confirmation that their goals meet the SBT’s strict requirements. Symrise’s goals were approved in July 2017 as the 61st company worldwide. By 2030, it plans to reduce its own CO2 emissions by 18 percent. The calculation is based on the values from 2016. The obligation includes Scopes 1 and 2, i.e., the CO2 emissions generated within the company for energy production, as well as those resulting from the purchase of electricity. To achieve the targeted CO2 reduction, Symrise had to reduce annual emissions by five percent. Yet a much larger step was taken in 2017 with the company’s sustainability report showing a decrease of 7.8 percent. The next interim goal is to halve CO2 emissions in relation to value added by 2030, based on the figures from 2016.


| JULY 2018 | P C Review

In the March column, Jill Gardiner looked at general criteria for ensuring claims are made in a cosmetic and not a medicinal sense. Now Gardiner tackles specific problem areas where competitors often tend to walk the fine line between acceptable and unacceptable claims.


nti-dandruff claims are one of those areas that can leave you with more than a sprinkling of dry skin on your shoulders if you err on the side of unacceptable claims. An advertisement shall not claim or imply a cosmetic product can cure or permanently prevent a specific condition that is the symptom of a disease. The advertisement shall state the condition can be alleviated by regular use of the product. Cellulite claims are another bumpy road to navigate. Claims that make reference to the removal of cellulite, weight loss or slimming are not allowed. Skin lightening claims are not permitted. A product may not claim to bleach, whiten or lighten the skin. For claims of this nature, using the term ‘even tone’ could be a good option. Sunscreen products come with their own burning issues. Claims for UV protection must be qualified with reference to UVA or UVB protection or both. Claims shall not be made or imply 100 percent protection from UV radiation e.g. block, sun blocker or total protection. The claims ‘waterproof’ and/ or ‘sweat resistant’ are not permitted. Pixie dust quantities provide no fairy tale ending when claims are made for ingredients. Mention of ingredients may be made but if specific claims for such ingredients are made, adequate and verifiable evidence, such as by demonstrating the presence of the ingredient at an effective concentration, must be provided to prove the product itself has those properties. Non-content claims are a ‘much ado about nothing’, though punting the fact a product does not contain an ingredient is tricky business. Non-content claims should be allowed as long as the following key criteria are respected: • It is not the main argument of the product but provides additional information to consumers. • It is fair and not misleading, especially with respect to the ingredient or ingredients that are the subject of the claim being made. • It is relevant for the product category (any XXX-free claim is not acceptable when XXX is either forbidden or would not form part of a relevant cosmetic product. So, the devil really is in the detail unless you are highly versed regarding unacceptable claims for specific categories. •

STREET The essence of men

Rain Africa has diversified into male grooming with an extensive series of products. The shaving milk has jojoba and marula oil, the aftershave gel includes skin soothing aloe ferox and there is a refreshing aftershave spritz. Additional offerings include a beard oil, deeply hydrating body butter, hand and body lotion, face cream, olive oil soap on a rope, hair and body wash, fragrant shower gel, shaving cream and olive oil shaving soap, and an eau de toilette. The packaging was designed to reflect the natural origins of the range and is masculine and sophisticated to resonate with the male consumer.

Soothing micellar cleanser Vichy’s new Pureté Thermale three-in-one micellar solution. This time saving cleanser purifies and soothes the skin while removing makeup and pollution particles in one simple step. It offers an effective, quick and gentle way to cleanse skin without rubbing and rinsing. This refreshing ultra gentle cleanser has a waterlike texture. The formulation is non-sticky, non-oily, suitable for sensitive skin and enriched with

Anti-inflammatory gel

hydrating pro-vitamin B5 and mineral water.

Adding to South Africa’s most prescribed muscle relaxant brand, Norflex, by iNova Pharmaceuticals has launched an antiinflammatory Benzydamine Hydrochloride topical gel. Norflex Gel is the first of its kind in South Africa and provides patients with symptomatic and topical relief associated with painful inflammatory conditions. The gel has anti-inflammatory, analgesic and local anaesthetic properties and is available from leading pharmacies in 30 and 75g pack sizes.

New from Phyto Pro A three in one Energiser and Nitro Blast are the two new additions to the Phyto Pro line-up of sports nutrition products. The simple yet effective three in one Energiser is based on plant-derived ingredients such as whole-fruit powdered mango; rhodiola, green tea and green coffee bean extracts; potassium; magnesium; calcium; vitamin C;

Keep skin hydrated Celltone has launched a range of tissue oil body lotions and body butters in three unique scents. The coco butter lotion

malic acid and stevia. Nitro Blast is a strawberry flavoured nitric oxide boosting product in a powdered drink format. Its key ingredient is Shilajit, an ancient Ayurvedic superfood with highly concentrated, bioavailable antioxidants, minerals and phytonutrients. Phyto Pro products are sold in Dischem stores nationwide.

and body butter are richly nourishing and smells great. The camphor variant is not only comforting but also nourishes, hydrates, protects and repairs dry

and damaged skin. There is also an original tissue oil body lotion and body butter, which are both based on Celltone’s popular tissue oil product. These products are available at independent pharmacies and major retailers such as Dischem, Clicks, Pick ‘n Pay, Game, RED Square and Edgars.

P C Review | JULY 2018 |



Harness nature’s best at

Afriplex’s technical symposium Back by popular demand, Afriplex will be hosting another one of its sought after one day technical symposiums at the JSE Conference Centre in Sandton, Johannesburg, on 12 September.

based clients. The international and

• an update on current regulations

local speakers have been carefully

and legislation

selected to ensure delegates receive

• innovation regarding APIs

maximum benefit from their insights into the trends and opportunities in today’s challenging market.’

• latest developments in CBD


(Cannabidiol) legislation and how to incorporate this ‘controversial’ ingredient

TBuyer’sguide into a final product.

ingredients, taking us back to

regulatory and active


will explore the benefits of natural

Afriplex is a South African company Afriplex looks forward rooted in the development and to spending the manufacture of botanical extracts, CAMs and food and beverage product The programme will day with its clients solutions. The company’s manufacturing cater for all existing and partners and to plant is based in Paarl, in the and potential clients share its experience Western Cape, with a newly and partners in the and knowledge about established regional office CAMs, health supplement, current and relevant in Johannesburg.

he theme for this year’s symposium is ‘Harnessing Nature’s Best’ and

Symposium highlights

the efficacious preventative care that

pharmaceutical ingredient

nature offers.

(API) categories of the pharma and

Wayne Robinson, Afriplex’s director of

business bevelopment, says: ‘This year, we are thrilled to be able to showcase our technical symposium to our Gauteng

nutraceutical industries.

The following topics will be covered: • local and international trends in the CAMs and health supplements

topics, providing an


opportunity for the industry to

learn together.

If you would like to attend this event,

please send an e-mail confirming your interest to to be shortlisted for an invitation. •


Buyer’sguide 2018/2019

The directory for manufacturers of food, beverages, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, toiletries, packaging and the printing industry

Available online: 10

Buyers Guide 2018.indd 1

| JULY 2018 | P C Review

2018/05/07 3:09 PM



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P C Review | JULY 2018 |



A powerful rebrand

with complete compliance in mind Sometimes an older, established brand needs rejuvenation to reinvent itself for renewed success in the market. Assisted by Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories and select packaging and ingredients suppliers, Rejuvenesse, an established line of CAMs and healthcare products, recently rebranded. Abby Vorster shares Claudi Ten Cate’s story about how she brought new life to this old brand.


ejuvenesse has been on the market for the past 25 years. This well-respected and successful healthcare brand originally consisted of 24 diverse products focused on stomach concerns, joint and bone health,

cholesterol and feminine health to name a few. In February, the brand officially changed ownership, yet Ten Cate stepped in as brand manager over a year ago to rejuvenate Rejuvenesse, bringing this well-known brand back to its former glory while moving with the times. ‘We’ve rationalised the brand down to 18 products to retain listings at various retailers and returned to Hersol as the original manufacturer,’ she explains. ‘As a contract manufacturer, the company played a significant role in the rebrand, appointing key suppliers to support my vision for the changes.’ Ten Cate has a strong background in consumer science and nutritional and functional food. She is also passionate about health and wellbeing, which is evident in the new range of Rejuvenesse products. ‘The changes essentially focused on patient care, consumer safety and regulatory compliance. While certain products were reformulated, raw material substitutions were required on others as a result of dwindling supply and quality issues,’ she adds. ‘Thanks to Hersol’s extensive expertise in the changing regulations and what will be required of CAMs and health products going forward, the company guided the brand on how to be compliant.’ Rejuvenesse products are based on supportive healthcare so there are no claims on the packaging. Another key compliancy change was the updated patient information leaflets (PILs) with the necessary disclaimers and font sizes now required by the South African Health Products Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA). Also a SAHPRA requirement, all of the products include a description of the key active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs) on the packaging to educate the consumer on why it’s been included in the product. ‘Ultimately, we’re empowering the consumer to make an informed choice about what they are purchasing.’

Packs with a punch Rebranding is a slippery slope so Ten Cate opted for a complete brand overhaul, changing the product’s packaging and labelling with the help of trusted and reliable suppliers. She developed the new identity for Rejuvenesse and turned to graphic designer, Janine Terblanche of the Little Blue Owl House, to bring her ideas for attractive, bold and unmistakable packaging to life. Ten Cate hand-drew the logo, based on the unfurling of a koru fern, which was then refined by Terblanche. The circular


| JULY 2018 | P C Review



shape of the koru, a leafy plant native to New Zealand and a traditional Mauri symbol, conveys the idea of perpetual movement and is symbolic of change. The logo

The South African CAMs and health as well as the logo supplement market continues to grow, that appears on the fuelled by higher levels of consumer awareness side of the pack. about well-being and preventative healthcare. There are 10 Immune boosting supplements and probiotics have gained massive popularity because product families boosted immunity and good digestive in the range of 18 health remain high on consumers’ products and each health ‘wish list’. Source: is colour coded. This is carried throughout each

symbolises the brand’s payoff

product from the secondary

line – ‘as life unfolds’ – ensuring

carton and labelling of the primary pack right to the actual tablet, capsule or effervescent tablet that is ingested. The unique colour coded tablet coatings are achieved using the innovative FlexiCoat technology from Sensient Colors. The FlexiCoat formulation is spray dried onto the tablets in a single application in Hersol’s state of the art coating equipment that delivers fast, flexible and consistent coating performance. FlexiCoat matches

A pink FlexiCoat from Sensient Technologies is used on the Menosure tablets for colour coding consistency within the Feminesse product family

the brand promise is aligned with the brand delivery, which Ten Cate says is to ‘support consumers throughout life as it unfolds and brings with it some surprises’.

packaging colours and appearance and improves consumer appeal. For the products packed in capsule format, the various colour coded capsules

The labels are printed with a gloss

are supplied by Solo Chemicals. This

varnish by Java Print. Britepak, a

Johannesburg based company also

specialist in producing packaging for

supplies pharma APIs, antioxidants,

pharma and CAMs applications, prints

ingredients for sports and animal nutrition,

the cartons and PILs. The cartons are

probiotics and prebiotics, nutritional lipids

interior printed with a series of luxury

and oils and herbal extracts.

finishes on the exterior to create shelf appeal. These include a matte laminate

With compliance comes trust

on the white and a UV varnish on the

Though Rejuvenesse products like the

colour, as well as a debossed logo to

Serenex and Cholesterex ranges and

add texture to the packaging. To grab

Spirulina already have a notable support

consumers’ attention, the brand name Print Ad.pdf 1 foiled 2018/06/26 on the frontSolo of the pack has been

base amongst consumers and healthcare 09:51

professionals, Ten Cate wanted to offer

Rejuvinate your brand Solo is a niche ingredient supplier who collaborates with manufacturers to ensure the best products and services to our customers. C








P C Review | JULY 2018 |


Hersol has invested heavily in its laboratory facilities. This is the manufacturer’s second instrument lab


more in terms of safe, quality and effective products. This is the main reason why the manufacturing of Rejuvenesse has returned to Hersol to be produced in line with Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP). Hersol’s bid to obtain full GMP-accreditation is ongoing while still holding onto its CAMs GMP status from the MCC. The company has developed a strategy to become the best contract manufacturer in the market in terms of service delivery, quality and its ability to develop effective products from concept to market in a short space of time. In addition to extensive manufacturing capacity enhancements, Hersol installed a world class microbiological laboratory in 2017 for analytical development and validation, including stability studies. This is also where all raw materials and ingredients, such as those supplied by Enna Industrial Ingredients (Enna II), are tested to validate their quality and efficacy. An example is Pomanox from Probeltebio which Enna II supplies to Rejuvenesse. This patented natural extract obtained from fresh pomegranate grown in Spain has proven cardiovascular health benefits. With vertical integration, quality control and full traceability at the heart of how Pomanox is produced, Enna guarantees Probeltebio’s product is of a high quality and free from organic solvents, synthetic chemicals and radiation. This strict protocol doesn’t only apply to Hersol’s suppliers – it applies to all its customers too because the company insists everything it manufactures is done according to legislation and within the standards prescribed. Ten Cate says this disciplined focus helps Rejuvenesse keep its promise to the consumer that all its products are compliant. ‘With Hersol’s guidance, we have gone above and beyond to ensure the safety, quality and efficacy of Rejuvenesse which includes stability testing the products for two years. We want consumers to trust the brand because it offers safe and effective products and we want to ensure these products remain on shelf once the regulations have been promulgated,’ she concludes. There is no official date for the Rejuvenesse relaunch, yet phase one of swapping out old stock for new commenced on 1 June. This means you can already see the first 13 products of this rejuvenated CAMs brand on shelf in major retail pharmacy outlets and other pharmacy and wellness stores nationwide. •

Britepak – Enna Industrial Ingredients – Hersol Manufacturing Laboratories – Sensient Colors – Solo Chemicals –


| JULY 2018 | P C Review



Introducing the Povidone Family product line from JRS PHARMA

RS PHARMA has announced the worldwide release of the Povidone Family product line, the latest addition to its excipients portfolio. This product line consists of three offerings: 1. V  IVAPHARM PVP (Povidone), the classic wet binder with optimal balance between adhesive strength and ease of handling 2. V  IVAPHARM PVP/ VA 64 (Copovidone), the ultimate tablet binder for all processing technologies 3. VIVAPHARM PVPP (Crospovidone), offering unsurpassed disintegration performance and versatility.

“A significant emphasis has been placed on stringent quality control” Dr Gernot Warnke, JRS PHARMA’s global director of R&D, comments: ‘I am excited about the addition of povidones to the portfolio, which strengthen our offering in the field of tablet binding and disintegration. The Povidone Family significantly

contributes to building the most comprehensive range of solid dosage form excipients on the market.’

QUALITY ASSURANCE AND SPECIFICATIONS Manufactured in a state-of-the-art GMP and ISO 9001 compliant/certified production facility, the VIVAPHARM Povidone range complies with the current Povidone, Copovidone, and Crospovidone monographs in Ph. Eur. 9.0, USP39/NF34 and JP17/ JPE, respectively. The specifications for the VIVAPHARM Povidone range are set tighter than compendial limits to better meet customers’ requirements. A significant emphasis has also been placed on stringent quality control. In addition to on-site quality checks, VIVAPHARM Povidone products will go through final quality control and release in the newly established Analytical Competence Centre at the JRS PHARMA facility in Germany. The Povidone Family product line is available locally from Rettenmaier South Africa, JRS PHARMA’s local office responsible for subSaharan Africa.

PRODUCTS AND SERVICES TO BRING HEALTH SCIENCE TO LIFE JRS PHARMA is a leading manufacturer of excipients, offering a complete portfolio of solutions for the global health science industry. Its excipients portfolio includes high functionality excipients, binders, disintegrants, lubricants, functional fillers, thickeners, stabilisers, carriers and coatings. JRS PHARMA also offers excellent technical support and biopharma services to address the needs and formulation challenges of its customers.


(Pty.) Ltd.

Fibers designed by Nature A Member of the JRS Group

Rettenmaier South Africa Phone: +27 (0)11 534 8619 E-mail:

P C Review | JULY 2018 |



FMCG manufacturer makes a

major switch to renewable energy On 5 June, World Environment Day, Unilever South Africa unveiled a R50 million biomass boiler installation at its historic Maydon Wharf Factory in Durban. This marks another significant step in the multinational’s journey to change the way the world does business.

and total plant control


commissioning,’ says Phahle

and automation. ‘We had the full support of a Vyncke mechanical engineer during the installation and a dedicated Vyncke software engineer was on site during

he unveiling was attended

leading commitment to ensure all our

Phalane, Unilever South Africa’s

by deputy minister of

plastic packaging is designed to be fully

sourcing unit director: Maydon

Environmental Affairs, Barbara

reusable, recyclable, or compostable by

Wharf and Phoenix.

Thomson; the KwaZulu-Natal

2025. We will also increase the recycled

Because a biomass boiler

MEC for Economic Development,

plastic content in our packaging to 25

is very large equipment,

Tourism & Environmental Affairs,

percent by 2025,’ he adds.

he says work had to be

Sihle Zikalala; and Unilever South

done by qualified riggers

Safety and sustainability

Africa’s executive vice president, Luc-

The new biomass boiler is illustrative

Olivier Marquet. ‘The biomass boiler will reduce CO2 emissions, waste to landfill and ultimately the amount of electricity used in production at Maydon Wharf,’ Marquet explains. He also signed the company’s global commitment to ensure all of its plastic packaging will


of the seriousness of Unilever

‘Safety and quality are an important and integral

South Africa’s commitment

part of our manufacturing

to sustainable living. ‘The

standards. A safety officer,

Unilever Sustainable The new biomass boiler Living Plan (USLP), which at Unilever’s Maydon Wharf Factory will consume on average commits to reducing our 940t biomass per month – environmental impact roughly the weight of 375 by half by 2020, has medium sized African already been unveiled,’ says elephants.

be fully reusable, recyclable, or

to maintain safety on site.

Marquet. ‘This goal can only be

achieved by putting sustainability

construction supervisor and project technician were on site for the duration of contract,’ Phalane explains. Daily safety talks were conducted and focused on the work planned, risks evaluated and method agreed.

at the core of our strategy. An important

This resulted in zero safety

part of this is to manage our electricity

incidents for the duration of

of growing concerns about plastic

and water use and to ensure no non-

the construction, installation

pollution – and because it is the right

hazardous waste goes to landfill. The

and commissioning of the

thing to do. In 2017, we made an industry

biomass boiler is our latest step on

biomass boiler.

compostable by 2025. ‘We have undertaken this because

this journey.’ Vyncke supplied and

‘Our service provider, AESAfrica was also instrumental

installed the biomass boiler.

in commissioning the boiler

This global company designs

to ensure its efficiency and

and builds green energy

compliance with air emission

plants. Its solutions span

standards,’ he adds.

fuel storage, chimneys,

AES-Africa operates,

combustion and boiler

maintains and manages

technology, flue gas

energy and utility plants

cleaning, power generation

throughout South Africa on behalf of

Deputy Minister Barbara Thompson, MEC Sihle Zikalala, Unilever’s LucOlivier Marquet and Phahle Phalane at the unveiling of the environmentally friendly biomass boiler


| JULY 2018 | P C Review

industrial users across various industries. Its outsourced operations include the


While the boiler cost R50 million to install, we estimate it will provide a saving of around R17 million per year

Phahle Phalane, deputy minister Barbara Thompson and Luc-Olivier Marquet outside Unilever South Africa’s soap factory at Maydon Wharf, Durban

to have”, but rather as essential to our social impact as a purpose led business,’ says Marquet. The success of the biomass boiler will not be the end of Unilever South Africa’s environmental efforts at Maydon Wharf. The company is actively looking at how to

takeover of existing energy and utility

reuse condensate, heat, water waste and

operations, as well as upgrades to or new

flash steam within its factories, as well as a

build energy plant operations.

new soap-making technology that use less

The boiler is fuelled by wooden pallets, waste wood and off-cuts from local furniture and door manufacturers, reducing the amount of wooden waste traditionally sent to landfill. Wooden pallets used as part of ‘business as usual’ by Unilever South Africa are reused and do not form parts of the biomass feed.

energy in production. It is also examining the feasibility of a new drier vacuum and solar power. ‘While the boiler cost R50 million to install, we estimate it will provide a saving of around R17 million per year. This figure factors in fuel savings and will reduce the facility’s carbon footprint. The boiler will lead to a reduction of over 30 percent in CO2

Leading by example ‘If sustainability is integrated into the very core of Unilever South Africa’s business, it’s far more likely it will have a successful impact on the company’s plans to make changes. ‘We don’t view it as a “nice

emissions and is projected to save 14 000t of CO2 every year,’ Marquet concludes. •

AES – Vyncke –

Aerosol & Cosmetics Works, your private label personal care manufacturer, is growing! We have just moved into our new warehouse and training facility, so our customers can grow with us.

Two premises – one goal: exceeding customer satisfaction! Phone: +27 21 933 2600/8/9 | Fax: +27 21 933 8818 Email: | Aerosol & Cosmetics Works.indd 1

2018/07/04 10:29 AM

P C Review | JULY 2018 |



Aerosol & Cosmetics Works

spreads its wings

A leading South African private label manufacturer, Aerosol & Cosmetics Works, is expanding at a notable rate. The company recently purchased a new off-site warehouse and streamlined its manufacturing facility for improved productivity.


n 1 June, Aerosol & Cosmetics

development to services and administration. Of

Works inaugurated its new 2 000m2

the current 173-employee workforce, 169 are of

warehouse and training facility,

previously disadvantaged designated groups.

equipping its employees to apply

and improve the company’s just in time stock system as well as unique SKU location processes. The new warehouse is


company is a leading producer of aerosols. Aerosol manufacturing requires a semi-skilled to technically

With its streamlined manufacturing plant and new off-site warehouse, Aerosol & Cosmetics Works is expected to increase its annual manufacturing and distribution capacity of 12 million units of personal care products.

located about 150m from the manufacturing plant in Beaconvale in the Western Cape. This means the company will now have two centres, each focused on a different requirement yet

and professionally qualified workforce. Comprehensive training is a key component of ensuring the company’s systems and procedures stay relevant to international trends. ‘Our supplier relationships, their support and commitment enable us to constantly

aligned to one goal of exceeding customer satisfaction.

improve the status quo,’ says Mark Woods, director at Aerosol & Cosmetics Works. ‘It is in

Aerosol & Cosmetics Works’

Mark Woods and Terrence Fillies, owners of Aerosol & Cosmetics Works

Apart from personal care products, the

my nature to always want to create something

manufacturing plant will continue to address

new out of nothing. Without research and long

and serve the cosmetics, personal care and

hard hours of effort, there is no such thing as a

aerosol product needs of customers, while

quantum leap – no matter how great the talent

its warehouse will ensure on time deliveries.

or efforts of our employees, some things, like targeted growth, do take time.’

An empowered workforce Works’ first focussed manufacturing plant

Solid investments and sustained growth

since the business opened its doors in 1990.

Since 2012, the company has seen an

It represents the company’s economic

annual increase in its product ranges and

commitment to the Western Cape economy,

sustained volume growth is predicted for its

where it has created 173 semi-skilled, skilled and

product offering.

The Beaconvale facility is Aerosol & Cosmetics

technical jobs for people from the region. Their positions range from manufacturing

Each and every employee of Aerosol & Cosmetics Works is proud and excited to celebrate its growth with the opening of the new facility. ‘We are continuing our growth in South


Africa as well as developing our footprint into

and product

Africa. We know and trust that our services and contribution make a difference. We have invested significant time and resources in our people, facilities and procedures and we look forward to developing our business and creating increased value to our customers for decades to come,’ Woods concludes. •

Aerosol & Cosmetics Works –


| JULY 2018 | P C Review


How adaptive algorithms create new ways to optimise production Artificial Intelligence (AI) in the engineering sector is gaining momentum. This is owing to increased processing power and the availability of increasing volumes of data. Omron offers innovative solutions to automate factories.


n the case of the advancements

Overall Equipment Effectiveness (OEE). This

AI algorithms is underdetermined. A reliable

results in combined reduced costs with

operation can only be confirmed through

increased productivity.

testing, optimisation and over dimensioning.

Many of the AI solutions advertised on have significant requirements in terms of


infrastructure and IT. These solutions also

According to Omron, algorithms integrated

work with an overwhelming amount of

in the machine’s control system create the

data that is laborious and time-consuming

framework for real-time optimisation, at

to prepare and process. The question of

the machine, for the machine. In contrast

added value often remains somewhat

to edge computing, where individual

murky for providers, who cannot determine

manufacturing lines or sites are analysed

whether and how the investment in AI will

using limited processing power, the AI

provide a return.

controller used by Omron, features adaptive

the market, which are often cloud-based,

System designs for the engineering

intelligence. It is closer to the action and

predictive maintenance and networked

sector are generally both complex and

learns to distinguish normal patterns from

efficient production, the use of adaptive

unique. As a result, it is not a matter of

abnormal ones for the individual machine.

required for Industry 4.0, such as

algorithms offers enormous potential. Many manufacturing companies realise AI presents an opportunity to increase

simply transferring learnt experiences

The AI controller integrated in the Sysmac

from other machinery as may be the

platform, which is a complete solution

case for mass-produced products in the

for factory automation, features modules

consumer goods industry. The majority of

for control, motion and robotics, image

systems are generally so complex that it is

processing and machine safety. These

not possible to map out the entire system

are primarily used in the manufacturing

mathematically and maintain costs at an

process at the points where the customer

acceptable level. It is Omron’s view that a

is experiencing the greatest efficiency

‘black-box approach’ is more common. The

problems such as bottlenecks. The

available data in these systems for typical

processes gain intelligence based on

Single solution

previous findings and improvements that have been made and subsequently drive holistic optimisation of the entire manufacturing process. •

The guiding principle behind the Sysmac automation platform is the use of one controller for the entire machine.

Omron –

Superior image sensing speed and precision FH Series

• High-precision object detection • Ultra-high-speed searching • Flexible functionalities to provide high compatibility with manufacturing machines

Would you like to know more? +27 (0)11 579 2600 fh_series_177x65_ad_enza_01.indd 1

11-06-18 09:42

P C Review | JULY 2018 |



Ensure operator safety during pneumatic screening Howorth Air Technology collaborated with Russell Finex to provide a contained pharma screening solution to an international manufacturer. Together they produced a customised solution that prioritises operator safety.


ince traditional powder screening machines often don’t provide the levels of containment required to ensure operator safety, the pharma manufacturer previously had concerns about operator exposure during the processing of APIs. Two systems for pneumatic screening and

NEW TO THE AFRICAN MARKET HOWORTH IS BASED in the UK with offices in the USA and representation in Europe and Asia. The company is customer focused, providing bespoke products and turnkey systems to meet the requirements of cleanrooms, R&D and testing laboratories, pharma manufacturing facilities and operating theatres. The company is interested in growth in the African market and recently sold some of its Biogen decontamination equipment in South Africa, through

conveying of pharma powders were required to guarantee containment during

the World Health Organization, to the Desmond Tutu HIV

sieving in two key production areas.

Centre – based at the University of Cape Town’s faculty of

Paul Stanway, business development manager at Howorth comments: ‘The

health sciences.

customer required a DownFlow containment booth, incorporating blending, weighing and sieving. A containment isolator, also known as a glove box, was also required to sieve and weigh APIs in a fully contained environment.’ Howorth’s Worksafe containment booths provide high levels of operator

This custom-built containment powder screener provides all the benefits of vacuum-conveying

protection. They are ergonomically and hygienically designed to allow for multiple

sieve technology with the patented twist, lock and

process operations. For this specific process, pharma powders would be pre-

inflate (TLI) airlock clamping system – ideal for

weighed, transferred into a hopper then vacuum-conveyed into an IBC via a

pharmaceutical sieving in a glove box. An additional

sieving system, ensuring the product is screened to guarantee a consistent particle

inlet was incorporated to allow for manual scoop-

size and remove oversize and foreign contamination. An interior view shows the access point via the glove box in the background with the Russell Compact Airswept Sieve in the foreground

feeding of powders on a smaller scale. To further improve usability, Howorth’s glove boxes have an

Integrated systems

integrated clean-in-place system with hygienic spray

For over 150 years, the Howorth name has been

balls and a wash hose to allow easy wash-down of

synonymous with creating safe and clean working

equipment after use.

environments. The company has a wealth of experience in combining containment

A reliable partner

technology with specialist equipment. For

The Russell Compact Airlock Sieve TLI clamping

this installation, a Russell Compact Airswept

system provides effortless operation whilst maximising

Sieve was specified as the integrated system

screening performance. It requires significantly

of choice. This sieve combines industry

less space than alternative clamping methods.

proven Russell Compact Sieve technology

The operator simply places the component parts

with vacuum conveying lines, ensuring

into the base and locates them by twisting and

powders can be check-screened in one

locking the lid. An inflatable seal then locks the

dust-tight operation. The unit is also quick

components in place. This reduces the dust and

and easy to dismantle, reducing downtime

improves the operator’s health and safety, providing

between processes.

OEL 5 containment (less than one microgram per

Howorth also engineers high containment isolators to provide fully contained

cubic meter). Stanway adds: ‘We chose to work with Russell

environments for API handling. These systems

Finex on this project because of its wide range of

combine containment to nanogram levels with

compact pharma screening equipment. Russell

integrated equipment to provide maximum

Finex also provided invaluable support during

production, ergonomic and maintenance

the design and mock-up phase. When providing

efficiency. For the containment isolator process,

premium custom-built solutions, it is imperative the

APIs would be loaded into the isolator utilising

integrated equipment is of a high quality, operator

a drum-loading chamber with the product

friendly and versatile to meet specific functions and

vacuum-conveyed and sieved, then deposited

environmental demands.’ •

into the same IBC. For this project, a hybrid sieving system was engineered, combining a Russell Compact Airswept Sieve with the Russell Compact Airlock Sieve clamping system.


| JULY 2018 | P C Review

Howorth Air Technology – Russell Finex –


HiQ – the high value

industrial safety offering Precision matters at Afrox. Hans Strydom, the company’s technical services manager for special products and chemicals, talks to P C Review about its meticulous HiQ range of innovative solutions and how they are tailored to suit customers’ speciality gas and equipment requirements.


t Afrox and all other Linde

gas utilised must accurately mimic the

companies around the world,

polluting gas the instrument needs to

HiQ is the global brand for

monitor. Getting the measurement wrong

a specific range of made-

can be costly, with potential fines. Low

for-purpose gases, gas mixtures and

ppm HiQ calibration gas mixes, many of

associated products that comply with very

which are manufactured at Afrox’s state

high purity and quality standards.

of the art gas operations centre (GOC)

Afrox HiQ speciality gases include pure

A gas chromatography-mass spectrometry instrument, which is used in a laboratory or testing facility

facility located in Germiston, South Africa,

scientific gases, made-to-order scientific

offer customers legislative compliance,

carrier gases and mixtures and calibration

consistency, accuracy and cost savings.

mixtures for certifying the accuracy of instruments. They also cover a host of special purpose mixtures for safety, R&D at scientific laboratories and health facilities and are used in the petrochemical, energy and mining industries. Argon, carbon dioxide, helium, nitrogen and oxygen are the high purity atmospheric gases that feature at the starting point of the HiQ product range. For use in HiQ gas formulations, each of the source gases must be of exceptionally high purity. ‘We talk about gas purity levels

Afrox HiQ gases are widely used as carrier gases for gas chromatographymass spectrometry instruments

in terms of a number of nines. A five nines

In the petrochemical industry, samples of a fraction from the distillation of crude oil, such as diesel, petrol or natural gas, are analysed. The chosen fraction gets vapourised and separated on a chromatography column. It then goes into

(N5) purity for example is 99.999 percent

In addition to the calibration gases

the mass spectrometer, which produces a

pure, which means it has an impurity level

for environmental and safety monitors,

of less than 0.001 percent or 10 parts per

chromatogram from which every constituent

Afrox HiQ gases are widely used as carrier

million,’ Strydom explains.

element of the sample, including all of the

gases for gas chromatography-mass

impurities, can be identified and quantified.

For modern HiQ gases, Afrox now offers

spectrometry (GC-MS) instruments. These

The result is automatically compared

six nines (N6) purity levels, which contain

are used in laboratories and testing facilities

less than 1.0 ppm of contamination. This is

to a database of substances, so all the

to determine the exact constituents and

the basis for the HiQ 60 range. These gas

constituents and their percentages are

contamination levels of substances.

immediately identified. If the instrument is

mixtures are designed to have a shelf life of up to 60 months, as opposed

Applications include drug detection, environmental analysis, fire

calibrated for a particular substance mix, then tiny quantities of the contaminant of

to previous generation mixtures

and explosion

that could only be guaranteed

interest can be found. In this instance, Afrox

investigations and the

for 36 months.

is currently working on a very toxic benzene/

identification of unknown

toluene/xylene calibration gas.

substance samples.

‘We thrive in situations where researchers

Why calibration is critical

HiQ helium for GC-MS

When it comes to the

for African conditions, for dealing with

instruments. While the purity

calibration of safety critical

mosquitoes and malaria, for example,

of the carrier gas is crucial

measuring equipment, the

as well as for a host of biochemical and

to the accuracy of the result,

purity level of the calibration

health applications, such as IVF treatment,’

the instruments themselves

mix represents true value.

Strydom reveals. •

are also very sensitive to

The company offers

To calibrate these instruments, the calibration

oxygen, moisture and any Hans Strydom

hydrocarbon contaminants.

are looking for solutions tailor made

Afrox –

P C Review | JULY 2018 |



Stop skin ageing,

safely and effectively Micah from Hallstar is a revolutionary and safe way to stop the ageing process in its tracks. It’s neither a filter nor an antioxidant but a new chemistry based on fused-ring cyanoacrylates, offering a novel path to skin protection.


roducts aimed at the prevention of

toxicity, placing yet another obstacle in the path

ageing have progressed at a fast

to create advanced anti-ageing sun protection

pace. Innovative stabilisation

products. With its breakthrough Micah

chemistry has enabled

authentic, effective protection from direct damage by the most penetrating, longer wavelength

Free-radical damage is the leading cause of premature ageing and a primary skin care concern worldwide

(340 and 400nm) UVA-I rays. However, even some stable chemical sunscreen agents are capable of transferring


chemistry, Hallstar, represented in South Africa by Millchem, offers a solution to these challenges which

stops the photo-ageing process Micah is a great example of Hallstar’s world-class capabilities. before it starts. The Micah chemistry received a Silver award in the functional category Innovative technology during the 2017 in-cosmetics Unlike sunscreens or antioxidants, Global Innovation Zone Best independent clinical research shows Ingredient Awards.

the energy they absorb into molecular oxygen and causing

a mere 0.2 percent of Micah in a skin care product prevents 100 percent of free

damage to the skin’s DNA, protein and

radicals, ROS, inflammation and DNA damage

lipids. Antioxidants are often added to sun

from UVA and visible light.

care products to scavenge and quench

Micah has been proven to eliminate one of

resulting free radicals and oxidation, yet

the key causes of UV-related ageing by stopping

their neutralisation capability is limited

the formation of damaging light-induced ROS

and complicated by their strong colour,

and free radicals. By acting directly on skin’s

even at low concentrations.

photosensitisers, such as the endogenous

Even with highly advanced formulations

poryphyrins, the chemistry stabilises and

and ideal usage, the effects of the UVA-I region

balances energy conditions within the skin, with

of the light spectrum can never be completely

the potential to stabilise skin’s own retinol.

blocked or absorbed. UV photons will always take

The fused-ring cyanoacrylates quench the

some kind of toll on the skin whenever exposure

excited photosensitisers by accepting the

occurs. This is coupled with consumers’ concerns

energy transfer. The quenching then returns the

about synthetic ingredients and their perceived

photosensitiser to its original state, eliminating

• Contract manufacture of bath/body/beauty/anti-ageing products • We have no brands of our own and therefore do not compete with our customers • Offer a turnkey operation from concept to launch of all products • Formulation development for local and international markets • Perform stability/micro testing for all products • Source new packaging locally and internationally • Sun protection

Tel: +27 (0)12 803 7999/+27 (0)12 803 0761/+27 (0)83 285 8830 Email: |

Serendipity.indd 1


| JULY 2018 | P C Review

2018/04/05 12:07 PM

SUN CARE the possibility for a singlet oxygen molecule and

were treated with four different Micah dosages

subsequent ROS and free radicals to be generated.

from 0.02 to 0.20 percent and exposed to UVA

Despite its advanced mode of activity, Micah does

irradiation between 320 to 400nm. The results

not result in any structural or functional changes

showed 0.20 percent Micah effectively prevented

within the extracellular matrix.

UVA-induced ROS and was even more effective than two percent tocopherol.

A first for SA

Because free-radical damage is the leading

Driven to innovate, Nimue Skin Technology is the first

cause of premature ageing and a primary skin care

skin care brand in the world to launch a product

concern worldwide, Hallstar’s Micah presented the

formulated with Hallstar’s Micah (Polycyclic Diester).

right technology and consumer perceivable benefits

The South African specialist in derma-cosmeceutical

for Nimue’s latest sun care innovation.

skin care says its Environmental Shield SPF50 ‘is the

Independent clinical test results show Nimue’s

most advanced SPF ever’. This is because it offers

Environmental Shield SPF50 ‘presents a good photo

high protection against the full electromagnetic

protective activity against IR and UV light’, ‘a good

light spectrum, including UVA and UVB rays and HEV,

protection against the increase of skin colour

also known as blue light. A lightweight texture and

induced by blue light irradiation’ and ‘a good

non-whitening finish are additional product claims

activity against modifications induced by the mix of

and because of its mattifying effect, Environmental

pollutants on human living skin explants’. The results

Shield SPF50 is ideal for oily and problematic skins.

also concluded it ‘totally inhibits an increase in the Nrf2 inflammatory pathway induced by the mix of

Proven results

pollutants’ and ‘totally inhibits lipid peroxidation

To understand the impact of Micah on UVA-

induced by the mix of pollutants’. These findings

induced ROS, inflammatory cytokines and DNA

prove Nimue’s Environmental Shield SPF50 is a good

damage, Hallstar commissioned an independent

product to protect against pollution. •

study at the Dead Sea & Arava Science Centre at Israel’s Ben Gurion University. Ex vivo human skin explants (0.64cm2) harvested from female patients who had undergone abdominal surgery

Hallstar – Millchem –

P C Review | JULY 2018 |



A natural alternative for sunscreens

Calcium hydroxyapatite, a mineral commonly found in our bodies, is an ideal alternative to UV filters that could cause skin irritations. Through extensive R&D using this mineral, Kalichem has produced a physical filter called Apalight, which also improves the performance of sunscreens. skin friendly filter

about 18 percent and the SPF50 around

helps formulators

two percent.

develop products

Along with its comparable sunscreen

with enhanced

efficacy to micronised TiO 2, Apalight offers

sun protection.

the interesting advantage of complete physiological compatibility. The ions are

Increased SPF

slowly incorporated into skin’s structure,

Although TiO 2 is

leaving skin’s surface free from solid

one of the most

residues in the long run.

widely used UV filters


in sun protection

Turn back time

products, it can easily

Apalight is perfect for use in an anti-

be replaced with

ageing day cream that offers added

Apalight. Kalichem

sun protection. Several in vivo tests were

determined this

done to prove its anti-ageing benefits.

through in vivo SPF

A sensory evaluation revealed Apalight

alcium hydroxyapatite is

tests on two sets of three formulations,

provides a statistically significant soft

essential for our physical

one with Apalight and the other, TiO 2.

focus effect with six out of 10 volunteers

and mental well-being.

The formulations included the Colipa

noting a decrease in fine lines and three

This nutritious element

Standard P3 and SPF30 and SPF50

out of 10 noting a decrease in deep

W/O emulsions.

wrinkle volume. Cutometer measurements

found for instance in bones and teeth, is important in the maintenance of all

Six percent Apalight was included in

revealed an increase in skin’s elasticity and a decrease in the visco-elastic ratio.

physiological processes and strengthens

the Colipa Standard P3, four percent in

bone structure by catalysing several

the SPF30 and five percent in the SPF50.

Kalichem’s products and innovative

biochemical reactions.

Respective quantities of TiO 2 were used

technologies for the personal care and

in the second set of formulations. In

cosmetics industry are available in South

significance in the sun care category.

all cases, the evaluations showed an

Africa from Orkila. •

Kalichem’s calcium hydroxyapatite

increase in the SPF values, with Apalight

innovation, Apalight provides a physical

being notably higher TiO 2. The SPF

alternative to chemical sunscreen filters.

in the Colipa Standard increased by

As a micro-dispersed, solid active, this

approximately nine percent, the SPF30 by

It’s also been found to be of


| JULY 2018 | P C Review

Kalichem – Orkila –


More than routine protection

is needed for sun care in Africa ‘Favourable colour, good complexion’ – Motshidisi Thoko, 31

‘A perfect skin is smooth, even toned with no dark spots, no pimples, not flakey and no enlarged pores’ – Thando Zuma, 25

‘No black spots, no blemishes; don’t want to have to cover up with makeup’ – Zinzi, 29

The concept of sun care is uncommon among black consumers, yet they demand an even skin tone. Croda reveals insight into the sun care category and the solutions available to formulators to overcome a variety of challenges when producing sunscreens.


aggravates melanin production and causes further dark spots. Acne scars are also more susceptible to the sun, further emphasising the need for a sun care product.

Inorganic sunscreens roda South Africa conducted a recent

Formulated with mineral UV filters, such as titanium

consumer study where 72 black South

dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide (Z nO), inorganic

African women were interviewed.

sunscreens have long been regarded as safe

Results show 79 percent recognised

and effective.1 They are preferred by individuals

the need for sunscreen to prevent their skin from

with a high propensity for skin irritation instead of

becoming darker. It was also evident most of the

sunscreens containing organic UV filters. Recent

women did not understand the effects of sun on

studies on the environmental impact of sunscreen

black skin.

actives have seen inorganics favoured by consumers

Whilst black skin does not necessarily ‘burn’ due

seeking marine-safe sunscreens. In the US, Hawaii

‘Flawless, no marks’

to its high levels of melanin, other negative effects

became the first state to pass a bill banning the

can occur. These include short term effects like pain,

sale of sunscreens containing organic UV filters

tightness and sensitivity, to longer term adverse

Benzophenone-3 and Octyl Methoxycinnamate,

– Boitumelo Molapo, 26

effects as shown in Table 1. Darkening of the skin

which are believed to harm coral reefs.2

caused by UVA can lead to hyperpigmentation, which results in dark patches and uneven skin tone.

‘Bright and glowing’ – Moipone, 26

The desire for an even skin tone was evident in the women’s responses in the consumer study. The strong desire for an even skin tone is further complicated as African skin is generally quite oily. Excessive sebum can lead to acne, which

Organic or ‘chemical’ sunscreens, such as Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane and Benzophenone-3, absorb high intensity UV rays, whereas inorganic or ‘physical’ sunscreens, attenuate UV by three mechanisms: absorption; reflection and scattering. Because of these different mechanisms, inorganic sunscreens attenuate UV over a broader wavelength range, which is one of

Table 1

‘My skin should glow’



Wavelength Range (nm)

280 to 320

– Thembi Baloyi, 45

HEV (Near-UV)

320 to 400

380 to 500

– Ellen More, 48

Epidermis to basal cell


Dermis to blood cells

• reddening • blistering • pain/sensitivity • skin cancer

• tanning/darkening of skin • f ree radical formation • s kin ageing • vascular and lymphatic damage • DNA damage

• degrades elastin and collagen • formation of glycation wrinkles •p  remature ageing

A summary of how UV light can be categorised according to wavelength and the corresponding potential damaging effects on skin


| JULY 2018 | P C Review

of these materials. Despite these traditional inorganic

Increasing penetration

Damage caused to skin

the many advantages

benefits, the use of

Decreasing energy Penetration

‘Velvet like, smooth and no pigmentation’


UV filters was limited because of poor aesthetics – the large particle sizes of TiO2 and Z nO left a white film on the skin. To overcome these limitations, patented


sun care technologies


have been




developed. Croda, a leader in inorganic sunscreen


dispersions, has a wealth of


expertise in sun care and was the first supplier to develop and market TiO 2 dispersion technology. This




technology improved product performance, enhanced product stability and promoted ease of use.


Solaveil Clarus was the breakthrough in terms of product aesthetics offering true

0 290 310 330 350 370 390 410 430 450 470 490 510 530 550

transparency on skin, comparable to an organic sunscreen. Ensuring the aesthetic performance

Wavelength (nm)

of Solaveil Clarus on black skin has been a key objective of Croda’s Technical Centre of Excellence in Africa. Studies have been undertaken which show

In terms of their UV performance, the absorption

Solaveil Clarus did not lead to ‘ashing’ or whitening

profiles of TiO 2 and Z nO are largely dependent on

on black skin. The study compared a conventional

the particle size of the metal oxides. SPF varies

TiO2 suspension to a Solaveil Clarus TiO2 dispersion,

significantly if sunscreen formulations are made

as well as finished formulations with an SPF15.

with the same concentration of inorganic particles

Figure 2 shows just how transparent the formulation

and if the sizes of the particles in the formulation

containing Solaveil Clarus (D) is on dark skin.

vary. In contrast, the UV absorption profiles of

Figure 1: UV visible attenuation versus wavelength for titanium dioxide of varying particle size. Blue line, 20nm; green line, 50nm; and red line, 100nm

High-performing UVA Filter

TC-UV TDSA TINCI is proud to announce the launch of a new water soluble, photostable UVA filter called Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid. The product is a broad-spectrum sunscreen which offer a fresh skin feel. The product has excellent compatibility in formulations, is colorless and safe. Dosage recommendations will range from 0,5% - 5.0% and can be used in lotions, sprays and creams.

UV Feature UV Feature 600







• λmax

345nm ( aq)

• λc (critical wavelength)

373nm ( aq)



• E(1%,1cm)

1.29 513(345nm)


0 300







Tel: +27 (0)11-965-1508 Email: Clive Gouws –

Acacia Chemicals.indd 1

2018/05/15 8:25 AM

P C Review | JULY 2018 |


SUN CARE requires sun protection products sold in America meet this critical wavelength. 4 Asia meanwhile uses an in vivo persistent pigment darkening (PPD) method to assign a PA label to a product, based on its UVAPF.

Formulation approaches Sunscreen formulators also face challenges in terms of which approved UV filters to use. There are a number of approaches to overcome this, such as using organic or chemical, UVA and UVB filters to provide high SPF broad spectrum protection. Yet this type of system cannot be labelled ‘natural’. Chemicals and the perception that these sunscreens can Figure 2: Comparison between a conventional TiO2 neat suspension (A), Solaveil Clarus neat dispersion (B), conventional TiO2 SPF15 formulation (C) and Solaveil Clarus SPF15 Formulation (D) on dark skin, using 10 rub-outs

organic UV filters are more closely related

lead to skin irritation, or are harmful to marine

to the concentration of the filters. Figure 1

life, present limitations in the market. The

shows the UV-visible properties of TiO 2 for three

regulatory limits on the quantity of organic

Sunscreen claims Cosmetics industry regulatory classed as effective and sufficient protection against both UVA and UVB radiation. Yet creating

The simplest option from a regulatory point of view is to use inorganic actives only

globally approved UV protection products can be a challenge, since

requirements differ from one continent

is to select a range of organic and inorganic UV filters. However, incompatibilities between ingredients and the global IP status of some UV filter combinations can complicate the

The final and simplest option from a regulatory point of view is to use inorganic

to the next.

actives only. Formulations based on these

In Europe, the European Commission recommends the

actives ensure a ‘natural’, mild and safe

UVA Protection Factor (UVAPF) of a

product can be produced, although care

sunscreen should be at least one

is required to ensure the aesthetics appeal

third of the labelled SPF. The critical

to consumers.


A high SPF and a high degree of sensory

wavelength of the product should be at least 370nm. These regulatory

elegance can be achieved when Solaveil

requirements have been harmonised

Clarus TiO 2 is combined with Solaveil Clarus

in Australia. For the US, the FDA

Z nO. The formulation in Table 2 is a Skin


Crodamol DA (Diisopropyl Adipate)

Protecting UV Fluid SPF50. Inspired by trends in Asia, this anhydrous system is an unusual Functionality

% w/w

Light emollient


Crodamol GTCC (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) Light emollient


Silsoft 034 (Caprylyl Methicone)

Silicone emollient


Crodamol EO (Ethyl Oleate)

Light emollient


Cromollient DP3A (Di-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Adipate)

Rich emollient


Span 120 (Sorbitan Isostearate)

Dispersing agent



Aerosil R 972 (Silica Dimethyl Silylate)

Bodying agent



Solaveil CZ-100 (Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid)

Inorganic UVA filter


Solaveil CT-100 (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Aluminium Stearate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Alumina)

Inorganic UVB filter


Renovage (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Teprenone)2

Anti-ageing active


alternative to a traditional emulsion. This ultra-low viscosity fluid combines Solaveil CT-100 and Solaveil CZ-100 to produce a mineral sunscreen that meets global regulatory requirements. •

Croda – REFERENCES: 1. N ohynek GJ, Dufour EK, Arch. Toxicol. 86(7):1063-1075, 2012 2.

A novel approach to incorporating Z nO and TiO 2 in a formulation, which offers high SPF and broad spectrum skin protection

| JULY 2018 | P C Review

especially for high SPF claims,

formulation process.

UVA protection and labelling

Phase Ingredient/INCI Name


Another common solution used by global formulators,

In South Africa, the sun care category witnessed some cannibalisation and loss of sales from skin care and colour cosmetics that offer higher SPF.

Table 2: Skin Protecting UV Fluid SPF50


difficult to achieve high SPF claims.


requirements dictate what is


sunscreens permitted for use also make it

different aggregate sizes.

3. European Commission Recommendation of 22 September 2006, on the efficacy of sunscreen products and the claims made relating thereto; Official Journal of the European Union, p L 265/39L265/43, 26 (Sep 2006) 4. F ood and Drug Administration, Final rule: Labelling and Effectiveness Testing; Sunscreen Drug Products for Over-theCounter Human Use, Federal Register, Vol. 76, No. 117 (June 2011)


How to

better protect millennials

DSM is targeting millennials as an untapped consumer group in the sun care category. Its South African agent, Chempure shares insight into this strategy, based on the results of a recent sun survey of various consumer groups.


he global producer of personal care ingredients and nutritional

portfolio of sun care ingredients. Two examples are the No Fomo sun stick SPF50 that blurs pores and imperfections and a UV Flash Tone Fluid SPF30. The opaque sun stick helps the user protect all areas of the face, including the eye, mouth and nose areas. Its fun format fulfils millennials’ aspiration for packaging allowing total flexibility for reapplication. The UV Flash Tone Fluid is a transparent yet corrective face product that plays with light to provide a glass skin effect. This is perceived by millennials as a smooth, flawless, pore-less skin with a beautiful, almost ethereal sheen. UVB and UVA protection across the full

products conducted a consumer

Break protection boundaries

proprietary sun survey on 5 600

A key ingredient in both these formulations

concentration. It demonstrates excellent

consumers from various global locations.

is Parsol Shield. This photostable broad

compatibility with organic and inorganic

A total of 1 172 respondents were

spectrum filter from DSM efficiently boosts

UV filters and is readily compatible with

range of applications and is used at a low

millennials, which revealed 83 percent of

other Parsol products, in particular

them use more sun protection that other

Parsol 1789.

consumer groups surveyed (74 percent). However, only 23 percent of millennials reapply sunscreen throughout the day and only 15 percent apply sunscreen to


Parsol Shield, available in South Africa from Chempure, delivers outstanding performance that breaks through the boundaries of UVB and UVA exposure to continue into the blue light spectrum to

their back and torso when at the beach.

protect skin.

Most millennials also only consider sun

RESULTS FROM DSM’S sun survey show the

protection necessary on sunny days and

following factors hinder thorough use of sun

during summer/warm months. However,

care products:

Shield supports high levels of water

year-round sun protection is essential for

1. R  espondents haven’t been to places where

resistance due to its good solubility in

all consumer groups. To overcome these barriers and

it’s sunny enough 2. T hey found it hasn’t been sunny this year

encourage more millennials to use sun

3. They covered up instead

care products consistently throughout

4. Sun care products are too oily or greasy

the year, DSM developed a range of

5. Its inconvenient to carry around a sunscreen.

innovative formulations using its Parsol

As part of a holistic formulation, Parsol

organic oils. It also meets the highest standards for safety and quality. •

Chempure – DSM –

P C Review | JULY 2018 |



Increase SPF efficiency and enable better aesthetics Dow Home & Personal Care’s senior scientist, Kinjal Joshi and global strategic marketer for skin and baby care, Jon Fedders discuss the benefits of a new polymer technology for sunscreen and SPFenabled skin care products.


he sun and skin care categories are trend driven and meet consumers’ needs from Durban and Denver to Dublin, Delhi and beyond. According to Mintel GNDP, since

2009 until now UV protection has been the number one product claim among global foundation and sun care brands.1 SPF claims have been trending upward for many years, which is reflected in the steady growth of the sun care market. This growth can be partially attributed to rising awareness that UV exposure causes premature ageing and is associated with heightened health risks. Concerns about the increased risk of skin cancer have placed an even greater focus on the SPF performance of skin and sun care products. Consumers expect higher SPF claims from their sun and skin care products with reliable, even skin coverage, plus water and rub-off resistance to ensure these benefits are locked in place. Yet, incorporating a higher SPF into a formulation can easily compromise a product’s aesthetic properties. For sun care products to remain competitive, they can no longer have a white film or tacky, greasy finish. The key to providing consumers with the best of both worlds is to tap into the benefits of new polymer technologies.

Balance SPF with aesthetics Micronised titanium dioxide (TiO2) is widely used as an inorganic UV absorber to formulate high SPF

Sun care products that leave a white film or greasy finish on skin are losing consumer appeal over those with appealing sensory benefits

sunscreens. Yet it tends to flocculate partially, either in the formulation or on skin, to the extent that its UV filter efficiency is reduced. This causes undesirable skin whitening, which compromises the user’s sensory experience. Soltex INO polymer was developed by Dow to boost the efficiency of inorganic UV absorbers for sun and skin care applications. This innovative material provides a new approach to enhance the performance of inorganic based sunscreens, including TiO2, zinc oxide (ZnO) and other iron oxides. It is a functionalised acrylic polymer designed as an additive to sunscreen formulations made with TiO2 powders or dispersions. It allows formulators to access various coated TiO2 filters in their formulation basket and to rapidly create new products that balance consumer demand for high SPF performance with desirable sensory benefits.

How it works Soltex INO polymer is designed to increase the spacing between clusters of TiO2 particles in the sunscreen once dry on the skin surface, which

Figure 1: SEM imagery of a TiO2 dispersion without (left) and without (right) Soltex INO polymer

minimises flocculation. It works by attaching to the TiO2 molecule surface, which provides and maintains more uniform spacing among the TiO2 particles. This increases SPF performance by improving the overall dispersion of inorganic particles – including TiO2 and ZnO – in the formulation. Figure 1 shows SEM images of how Soltex INO polymer improves the dispersion of TiO2 in a sunscreen formulation in comparison to a control. The improvement of the inorganic particulate dispersion is dependent on the formulation type, the TiO2 particle size and its surface treatment. However, Soltex INO polymer boosts SPF consistently well across different types of TiO2. In all cases, skin whitening and unevenness caused by agglomerated TiO2 particles are suppressed for sunscreen formulations containing


| JULY 2018 | P C Review

SUN CARE the new functionalised

Figure 2: In vivo test results for the O/W emulsion with TiO2 sunscreen prototype

acrylic polymer versus TiO2 alone. The polymer significantly improves sensory performance by reducing the amount of TiO2 needed to achieve the targeted SPF. Compatible with multiple formulation types and grades of TiO2, the polymer also improves ZnO dispersion for better UVA coverage.

Performance tested

Many additional in vivo SPF studies

Numerous in vivo SPF studies were conducted on inorganic oil in water


(O/W) and water in oil (W/O) emulsion sunscreens with various grades of hydrophobically coated TiO2 powders with different surface treatments. The formulations were prepared with TiO2 and Soltex INO polymer versus the equivalent dosage of TiO2 alone. The in vivo SPF results were measured via Static SPF FDA 2011

of formulations. Results indicate the polymer is compatible with

multiple formulation types Synthetic polymers with multiple and grades of TiO2 and it functions and benefits, such as film formers for better UV and pollution improves ZnO dispersion protection and water and sand resistance, for better UVA coverage. are expected to grow by 1 000t in the Soltex INO polymer global sun protection market between overcomes the shortfalls 2015 and 2020. Source: Evolving Trends of standalone TiO2 and ZnO and Hottest Ingredients in Sun formulations by reducing Protection posted on blog. particle agglomeration to create a more even, long lasting particle

technique on seven subjects. The polymer nearly doubled SPF performance in O/W emulsion formulations (see Figure 2). Achieving the same level of SPF performance in this formulation required slightly more than double the amount of TiO2. In vivo SPF studies were also conducted on inorganic-based O/W emulsion sunscreens using ZnO as the SPF ingredient. Results of this formula clearly indicate Soltex INO polymer provides a significant SPF boost to ZnO formulations with only a slight impact on sensory aesthetics (see Figure 3).

were conducted on a wide range

distribution on skin. This new polymer technology delivers long lasting, even coverage and enables the use of less mineral based material to achieve an

Soltex INO polymer boosts SPF consistently well across different types of TiO2

equivalent or better SPF protection. Soltex INO polymer also helps skin and sun care brand owners meet consumer demand for aesthetically pleasing sun and skin care products that deliver high SPF protection. •

Dow Home & Personal Care –

Stability Testing Services, a division of Botanichem, offers a well equipped onsite laboratory for independent stability testing for the cosmetic industry. Stability testing is vital to ensure your product maintains its intended physical, chemical & microbiological quality. We offer: • Stability Testing • Regulatory Labelling • Formulation • Product Information Files for Export FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT ROBYN OR LINA. 011 425 2206 OR 011 425 2648 /

P C Review | JULY 2018 |



Prepare skin for

life in the light

While UV radiation is known as a primary aggressor of skin damage and premature ageing, blue light is just as harmful. Because it’s almost impossible to escape the sun and electronic devices, Lipotec has come to consumers’ rescue with Lumicease blue ingredient to repair damage induced by solar and artificial blue light.


verexposure to the sun is believed

Opsins detected in human skin are the main

to cause up to 90 percent of the

photoreceptors of the eye and play a significant role

signs of skin ageing such as wrinkles,

in light perception. They are believed to help skin act

roughness, sagginess, skin thickening

as a sensory system for light, increasing its alertness

and dark spots. The sun also emits infrared (IR) and

and protection. Humans and animals’ ability to adapt

blue light, which are more harmful than UV rays and

was a key focal point for Lipotec’s development team,

penetrate deeper into the dermis. Blue light can

which set out to produce an active ingredient that

also be found indoors, since it is artificially produced

could effectively mimic this process.

by electronic devices such as computers, TVs,

Giving back to Mother Nature

smartphones and tablets. Unfortunately, regular

Tucked away in a waterfall in the Eastern Pyrenees,

sunscreens do not provide

in Northern Spain, the team found its answer in a

protection against blue light and

microorganism that is highly resistant to radiation.

IR. So, smartphone dependency,

Exiguobacterium was isolated in line with Lubrizol’s

Lipotec has taken its commitment

the selfie boom and extended

sustainability policy, which prevents large amounts

to preserving the environment a

periods spent in front of computer

of materials being harvested from nature and

step further, by pledging to donate a

screens can negatively impact

ensures sustainable practices are maintained

percentage of the sales of Lumicease

skin’s appearance.

throughout the process.

blue ingredient to Paisatges Vius,

To protect itself from light-

Using biotechnology, Lumicease blue ingredient

a non-profit organisation. Based in

induced damage, human skin

was developed to protect and repair skin, ultimately

Northern Spain, the organisation is

adapts by developing biological

minimising the main signs of photoageing.

dedicated to conserving the aquatic

mechanisms that increase its

The ingredient activates opsins on the skin and

ecosystem of the Pyrenean area

resistance to light. This occurs

promotes adaptive responses, which help prepare

where the isolation of the microorganism

in the same way animals

skin for future exposure to light.

took place.

camouflage themselves to adapt to an environment.


Sustainability first

| JULY 2018 | P C Review

In vitro test results show that, in addition to activating opsins – which are considered as the eyes

SUN CARE of the skin – Lumicease blue ingredient helps induce

a 13.2 percent reduction in average roughness

skin’s adaptive responses against light damage.

observed after 56 days of treatment.

An increase of cell survival and improvement

Lipotec’s Lumicease blue ingredient, available

and protection of the extracellular matrix were

in South Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals,

also observed.

prepares, protects and repairs the skin from solar and artificial blue light. These mechanisms of

Effective in skin repair

action help minimise the main signs of digital and

A clinical test was performed on women who

photoageing so consumers can enjoy their lives in

applied a cream with two percent Lumicease blue

the light. •

ingredient on half of their face and a placebo cream on the other. The test took place during the

Lipotec – Savannah Fine Chemicals –

summer and the women were exposed daily to artificial blue light. At the end of the study, the number of brown

Lumicease blue ingredient helps induce skin’s adaptive responses against light damage

spots decreased by 11.7 percent. The amount of UV spots, which

Figure 1: Lumicease blue ingredient has a protective effect against the appearance of future brown spots. Changes in the UV spots were assessed by the Visia complexion analysis system

were not yet visible, were also reduced by 14.1 percent (see Figure 1). These positive results suggest Lumicease blue ingredient is effective in skin repair. Its anti-ageing benefits were proven too with a

0 Days

in wrinkle volume and

MAXIMUM SUN PROTECTION WITHOUT STICKY SKIN. WHY NOT? Building sand castles or splashing around in the sea: children love everything about the beach – except for those annoying breaks to put on more sun cream and the sticky hands and itchy skin that may go with it. Fortunately, our water based film former Baycusan® C1004 allows for very waterresistant emulsions with a sand resistance effect. It combines safe and easy application with no sticky skin and outstanding long-term protection – for the delicate skin of children who like enjoying the sunshine, sand and sea all day long.

56 Days

Covestro Deutschland AG, D-51365 Leverkusen · COV00084965

21.5 percent reduction

Beauty Made Possible.


Distributed by COV00084965_Baycusan_Kids_130x177mm_0618.indd 1

26.06.18 15:24

P C Review | JULY 2018 |



Consider CPC as an alternative from Vertellus looks at the changing regulatory landscape and how consumer preferences cast a spotlight on the need for alternative preservatives. Jessica Byrd


of respondents were hesitant to purchase personal care items when confused about the ingredients1. A total of 51 percent said they would be willing to switch to another brand if they better understood the ingredients in the product and 48 percent said they would be willing to pay more for a personal care

ngredient manufacturers can tell a lot about the issues on formulators’ minds through

product formulated with recognisable ingredients. Today’s consumers also pay more attention to

engagement at industry trade shows. Concerns

their environmental footprint. Eventually, personal

about ingredients in personal care products

care products and cosmetics get washed off and

was a significant topic of discussion at in-cosmetics

end up in the water supply. In today’s eco-conscious

Global in Amsterdam. Much of the conversation

world, there is growing recognition that consumers

focused on the safety, efficacy and environmental

should be more aware of the environmental impact

profile of these ingredients and whether there are

of the products they use.

alternatives available to address regulatory and consumer concerns.

The MIT ban Ingredients used in deodorants, shampoos and cosmetics are coming under global scrutiny from regulatory bodies. In 2016, the European Commission (EC) banned the use of

There is also the issue of resistance. The longer a preservative is used, the greater its potential to


methylisothiazsolinone (MIT) as an ingredient in leave-on products. The EC ban of MIT followed

APART FROM THE consumer appeal of CPC, the ingredient

public consultation on the substance, organised

has a trusted history. CPC has been used for more than 40

subsequent to a 2013 assessment by the

years as a US FDA-approved anti-gingivitis ingredient in oral

Commission’s Scientific Committee on Consumer

health products.

Safety (SCCS). The SCCS assessment concluded

The legacy of trust in the oral care category and unique

the use of MIT in leave-on products was unsafe

performance attributes of CPC make it attractive for new

due to its sensitising potential. Used as a

formulation applications in the personal care space. Some

preservative in products such as body lotions,

of its key performance benefits include:

cosmetics and deodorant, MIT has been linked to

• a strong efficacy against a wide range of gram positive

an increasing number of allergy incidences. Consumer surveys also show increased

and gram negative bacteria and fungi • its ability to effectively reduce odour-causing

awareness in the safety of

bacteria, making it suitable for a wide variety of

ingredients. The 2017 Label Insight Ingredient Confusion Stud1

deodorant applications • it is biodegradable and does not persist in

conducted among American

the environment.

consumers found 31 percent

The main challenge of mild, “Free Of” preservatives is microbial contamination. Sharon is offering a new preservative solution, with amplified efficacy. The range offers broad spectrum, superior activity, allowing a significantly lower level of use in finished product.

less preservative delivers more protection. +27 11 494 6700 | | CJP Chemicals.indd 1


| JULY 2018 | P C Review

2018/06/29 2:37 PM

PRESERVATIVES become ineffective against microorganisms

in the personal care space for more than four

like bacteria, which adapt to the preservative

decades. CPC is approved for use in personal

ingredient. With this in mind, formulators like to

care preservation in Japan and European

mix up their preservative options to stay ahead

authorities are currently reviewing CPC for

of resistance.

Annex V approval.

Whether ingredient concerns stem from

In response to the increased demand from

regulatory bodies or consumers, the

regulatory bodies and consumers for

message for formulators and personal ingredients used in personal care products are under scrutiny.

A trusted solution with CPC Faced with this dilemma, one approach might be to identify a ‘silver

alternative preservatives in body washes


care manufacturers is clear:

and other personal care products, Vertellus identified CPC as a

Freshstat is an excellent replacement for triclosan, triclocarban, MIT, benzethonium chloride, formaldehyde-donors and parabens in leave on and rinse off products.

bullet’ – a solution that delivers safety,

logical solution. The Freshstat and Freshstat Plus blends are specifically formulated to help formulators address the safety, efficacy and environmental concerns of regulators and consumers.

Free of parabens, phthalates,

efficacy, reduced environmental impact and

isothiazolinone and formaldehyde,

Good for your formulations

cost-effectiveness. To overcome the challenge,

Freshstat and Freshstat Plus provide

global manufacturer of fine and speciality

a broad spectrum of efficacy against

The Freshstat family of

chemicals, Vertellus focused on cetylpyridinium

bacteria, yeast and mould.

products are effective at very low concentrations and can

chloride (CPC) to develop the Freshstat family with several attributes that address the needs of

Cationic and anionic formulations

personal care formulators.

Even the most attractive preservative

and Freshstat Plus are also

won’t be effective if it is not compatible

compatible with a wide

to personal care, CPC is not new in the chemical

with a formulation’s system. Because

variety of raw materials.

industry. Vertellus has been working with CPC

anionic systems contain a high

of preservatives. CPC is a long-trusted chemical

Although the Freshstat family is relatively new

Better together with

be formulated to work across a broad pH range. Freshstat

Personal Care

Our task is to help unveil beauty

PRESERVATIVES: Below is a selection of a wide range products for preservation and also some for natural antimicrobial solutions that we offer. AMTicide® Coconut From fermenting coconut fruit with Lactobacillus to deliver a non-irritating, anti-fungal and effective multifunctional product Leucidal® Liquid SF From the fermentation of Lactobacillus in a defined growth medium, this yields a unique peptide and broad spectrum, antimicrobial and conditioning properties. This ferment filtrate is salysalicylate free Leucidal® Liquid PT Fermented from Lactobacillus acidophilus in the presence of sustainable castor oil. Has enhanced antifungal activity. The result is a broad spectrum antimicrobial product with probiotic and conditioning properties.

KATHON™ CG Preservative • An aqueous mixture of methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone primarily used in rinse-off products such as shampoos, conditioners, body washes and liquid soaps. • Excellent broad-spectrum activity against bacteria, yeasts and moulds. Globally approved, Eco-friendly profile • Suitable alternative to parabens and formaldehyde releasers NEOLONE 950 Preservative • Single active preservative methylisothiazolinone chemistry • Effective broad-spectrum preservative • Compatible with a variety fungicides and bactericides • Simple, water-based formulation for ease of use • Effective alternative to formaldehyde releasers

Contact us: Johannesburg (011) 254 3300 | Cape Town (021) 534 3140 | Durban (031) 902 5324 East London (043) 726 8713 | Port Elizabeth (041) 453 1981

Crest Chemicals.indd 1

2017/01/31 11:13 AM

P C Review | JULY 2018 |




Regulation. CPC is currently undergoing risk

consumers around the globe. From a

review as a new cosmetics preservative by the

regulatory perspective, the components of

European Scientific Committee on Consumer

Freshstat preservative options have been

Safety and is already approved as a personal

registered under the European Union’s REACH

care preservative ingredient in Japan.

a broad-spectrum preservative is ideal. Another consideration is the consistency of the formulation. Formulators must evaluate the impact a preservative may have on product separation, thus affecting its texture or thickness. There are also cultural and religious requirements worth considering. Freshstat is manufactured within Kosher and Halal certified conditions.

percentage of water they require preservatives,

For environmentally conscious consumers, CPC

like Freshstat Plus, which are highly effective

doesn’t persist in the environment. Paraben-free,

against mould.

phthalate-free, and eco-friendly, CPC addresses

Freshstat Plus is a proprietary mixture of CPC and benzoic acid in propylene

many considerations that may be on consumers’ minds as they evaluate and compare products.

glycol especially designed for use in

Formulators don’t need to worry about how CPC-

anionic surfactant systems, which

based ingredients will affect the appearance or the

need added preservation against mould and fungus. A dilemma

texture of the end-product because it is colourless, odourless and offers a neutral pH. These aspects

faced by many formulators

make it easy for a formulator to introduce CPC into

seeking to reduce or eliminate

an existing formulation.

traditional preservatives is finding a natural, paraben-free option

The Freshstat family of preservatives is available in South Africa from Millchem. •

with demonstrated effectiveness against an array of microbes that particularly threaten anionic

Millchem – Vertellus –

formulas. These threats include not only especially hardy species of mould, but also yeast, bacteria and fungi. To address the challenge,

REFERENCE: 1. The 2017 Label Insight Ingredient Confusion Study, https://www.labelinsight. com/ingredient-confusion-study

Shonna Twynham | Tel: 27 (0)11 922 1830 | Mobile: +27(0)79 372 0761 | Fax: +27(0) 11 976 1706 Email: |


| JULY 2018 | P C Review

Natural protection


for your formulations

Chemyunion, represented in South Africa by Chemgrit Cosmetics, has launched a new antimicrobial that broadens preservation possibilities in cosmetics products. Hebeatol CG is a bioactive molecule proven to prevent or delay microorganism growth. Figure 1: Challenge test results for Hebeatol CG in micellar water, wet wipes and mascara formulations


ccording to Chemyunion,

it is difficult to reduce allergic reactions

Hebeatol CG’s ability to prevent microbial

preservatives are frequently

and contact dermatitis in the medium and

contamination in micellar water, wet wipes

associated with contact allergies

long term with the current shrunken palette

and mascara formulations.

in cosmetics. Quaternium-15

of preservatives.

Developed by Chemyunion, Hebeatol

and formaldehyde are among the top 10

There are a few safe alternatives

allergens, based on the prevalence rate

on the market. Recent developments

antimicrobials, which includes Hebeatol Plus,

and clinical significance, listed in 2013 by

include sugar, fatty acid and amino

Hebeatol BA and Hebeatol PS VG.

the North American Contact Dermatitis

acid-derived ingredients, with excellent

Group (NACDG). In addition, Diazolidinyl

biological compatibility.

Urea (DIAZ), parabens, Imidazolidinyl Urea,

CG complements the Hebeatol range of

Hebeatol CG was developed using a green molecule obtained from a renewable resource. It is not only safe

Methylchloroisothiazolinone (CMIT) or

Safe and effective

and effective but also 100 percent

Methylisothiazolinone (MIT) are among the

Hebeatol CG is a functional ingredient that

biodegradable. As a functional ingredient

top 20 allergens listed by NACDG, which

acts as a broad-spectrum antimicrobial

it repairs skin’s barrier function, reducing

results in global restrictions imposed by

agent, providing formulators with a greater

transepidermal water loss by 21.

regulatory authorities.

opportunity to diversify their choice of

Hebeatol CG is ideal for skin care

preservatives. With a great synergetic

formulations and approved for use in a

list of preservative substances can result in

combination of xylitol esters and caprylyl

variety of countries. •

a higher incidence of primary sensitisation,

glycol, Hebeatol CG is compatible with a

because the same preservative is used in

variety of formulations and particularly great

a wide range of products concomitantly.

for micellar waters, wet wipes and mascaras.

This creates a paradox for formulators, as

See Figure 1 for challenge tests results of

Indeed, consumer exposure to a reduced

Chemgrit Cosmetics – Chemyunion –

P C Review | JULY 2018 |


PHARMA FOCUS//CAMs & Health Products

Natural remedy with

proven health improvement benefits

While healthy eating and increased physical activity are the keys to avoid or overcome problems related to metabolic syndrome, Metabolaid from Monteloeder has been proven to prevent and improve this condition.


chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry detection. Both plants have been readily used for centuries in traditional medicine to treat various illnesses or conditions. This unique, synergistic combination of ingredients results in a product that helps individuals with metabolic syndrome improve their state of health state. Metabolaid acts upon various tissues (adipose tissue, liver and muscles) by activating

etabolic syndrome consists of a

AMPK, which acts as a master metabolic

group of risk factors that affect the

switch. In the muscles, the phosphorylated

normal metabolic functioning of

form of AMPK (pAMPK) activates mechanisms

the body. It is not a disease, but a

to increase glucose and fatty acid uptake from the bloodstream, due to increased

series of unhealthy habits, or in some cases a hereditary metabolic condition, which, if not corrected, can eventually become irreversible. Its prevalence is growing


mitochondrial biogenesis. Overall, Metabolaid favours the use of its own energy reservoirs

over other sources, making it an The prevalence of metabolic efficient fat burner. to increased physical inactivity, syndrome is increasing in African populations and is particularly high unhealthy eating habits, and among Black South African women Proven effective alcohol/tobacco consumption, (42 percent) versus women in the Clinical studies have among other reasons. With United Kingdom (23 percent) and demonstrated Metabolaid is an time, these conditions can the United States of America ideal product for individuals with become chronic and give rise to (36 percent). Source: excess weight, hypercholesterolemia/ cardiovascular disease, diabetes, liver at an alarming rate worldwide due

hypertriglyceridemia, and/or

damage and cancer. Experts say one of the most effective ways

hyperglycemia, who wish to improve their

to turnaround this pandemic is through self-

health and quality of life. Clinical studies showed

care and not purely medical care. Metabolaid

Metabolaid helped volunteers:

from Monteloeder, available in South Africa

• lose weight (twice that of placebo group)

from Enna Industrial Ingredients (Enna II), is an

• reduce their waistline (-6.5cm)

active ingredient proven to prevent and improve

• reduce their body fat percentage (-2.0%)

metabolic syndrome.

• lower total cholesterol levels, especially

Metabolaid is the result of more than seven

LDL (-19.6%)

years’ scientific research in both animal models

• lower fasting blood glucose (-3.5%)

and clinical studies. These studies were performed

• lower heart rate (-8.4bpm)

in collaboration with renown experts, the Molecular and Cellular Biology Institute and Applied Biology Department of

• lower blood pressure (-14.6%) An increased satiety effect was observed in the volunteers taking Metabolaid, which was

Miguel Hernandez University (UMH),

perceived as early as 15 days after consuming the

Analytical Chemistry Department

ingredient (analysed using the VAS questionnaire).

of the University of Granada, the

In this manner, volunteers could more easily follow

Biomedical Research Unit of the University Hospital of Sant Joan and University Rovira i Virgili.

the diet plan, without feeling hungry and with a more positive attitude. Metabolaid can help with weight loss and to normalise cholesterol/triglyceride/glucose levels

A good combination

and blood pressure, while helping the user feel less

Metabolaid contains an

hungry. In this manner, it helps consumers follow

optimised combination of

a diet plan and increase their motivation and

polyphenolic extracts from Hibiscus sabdariffa (hibiscus) and

adherence to improve their health and quality of life. •

Lippia citriodora (lemon verbena), with a final content of 3.5 percent anthocyanins and 15 percent verbascoside as measured by high performance liquid


| JULY 2018 | P C Review

Enna II – Monteloeder –

PHARMA FOCUS//CAMs & Health Products

New stability storage facility for CAMs and pharma products Stability programmes are fundamental in providing evidence of product quality after exposure to temperature and humidity variances. Stabil-Lab reveals why these programmes are essential.


lobal regulatory

So, it’s important to select an experienced

requirements necessitate

partner that offers efficient programme

the provision of evidence

management and flexible environmental

to support product shelf

condition capabilities that satisfy

life, recommended storage conditions

regulatory criteria for real time and

and ongoing stability programmes. This

accelerated stability studies.

ensures the product remains and, can be

The environmental chambers at Stabil-Lab’s facility are fully controlled and monitored

and technical expertise. ‘We also offer

expected to remain, within specifications

A trusted expert

under the storage conditions on the

Stabil-Lab is a dedicated facility, situated in

contingency and disaster recovery service

label. Stability programmes are used to

Boksburg, Gauteng, providing a one-stop

to help you mitigate the risks associated

demonstrate short and long term stability

stability solution. This includes:

with valuable stability trials,’ explains

of products including pharmaceuticals,

• development and management of

Dr. Herman Julsing, owner of Stabil- Lab.

a responsive and bespoke stability

complementary medicines or CAMs, active

stability programmes that meet the

pharmaceutical ingredients, bulk products,

regulatory requirements of the South

capacity and environmental chambers

finished products and cosmetics.

African Health Products Regulatory

qualified to a range of climatic zones, with

Authority, World Health Organization

back-up facilities and an uninterrupted

a stability programme is multifaceted; it

and the International Council for

power supply. ‘With the principles of

includes the preparation, implementation

Harmonisation of Technical Requirements

data integrity at the core of our data

and management of an appropriate

for Pharmaceuticals for Human Use

management system, Stabil-Lab provides a

The development and maintenance of

stability protocol, continued maintenance of qualified environmental chambers

• s torage of product samples in qualified environmental chambers

and constant monitoring and analysis

complete data dossier at the end of each storage interval. This gives an analysis of the

• continuous online monitoring of

of environmental conditions. These

The company has adequate sample

temperature and humidity data recorded

environmental conditions

throughout the entire storage period,’ he

programmes inherently demand

• collection and delivery of samples

comments. ‘We apply our comprehensive

considerable time and scientific expertise.

• an assortment of climatic zones.

understanding of the latest regulatory and

Table 1: Climatic zones

Temperature (°C) Humidity (% RH)

Zone II Long Term


Zone IV A


25 °C

40 °C

30 °C

30 °C





Stabil-Lab offers stability programmes for a range of climatic zones

Contact details: Dr. Herman Julsing 0824970250

Stabil-Lab.indd 1

The Stabil-Lab team

technological developments. This offers a

provides professionally

responsive partnership with an integrated

managed cGMP

storage capability, allowing clients to focus

compliant stability

on their core business objectives.’ •

programmes, for all products, supported by years of scientific

A pharmaceutical stability storage facility to monitor all types of pharmaceutical dosage forms.

Stabil-Lab –

Stabil-Lab now offers a complete stability storage service to take the headache out of your stability programme. Monthly billing that can easily be accommodated, complete data dossier to fully comply with SAHPRA requirements. Building of stability chambers. No problem with power outages. Off site storage for better thermal and security control. Peace of mind with your stability programme.

2018/07/04 11:27 AM

P C Review | JULY 2018 |


PHARMA FOCUS//CAMs & Health Products

The green revolution in integrative healthcare

It’s going to take strategic efforts of government, industry and healthcare practitioners to achieve an integrative system of complementary and allopathic medicine. Raj Naidoo, professor emeritus of Nelson Mandela University, discusses the growing trend in natural healthcare and how all industry role players are responsible for meeting consumers’ needs with safe and effective products.


mutually equitable partnerships that adopt jointly accountable, ethical and holistic approaches to patient care.

Role players in safety and patient care The pharmaceutical interface at points of manufacture and sales, particularly manufacturing, can become an

omplementary and

or even alternative, mostly off-the shelf

instrument for facilitating integrative

alternative medicine (CAMs)

therapeutic products, have evolved.

healthcare practices for patient care.

is becoming recognised

Yet, the potential for their integration into

As noble as it may seem to conjoin

nowadays as complementary

mainstream healthcare services raises some

a diverse range of allopathic and

challenging issues.

alternative therapeutic products, safety,

and integrative medicine (CIM) or, more appropriately, as ‘complementary and

efficacy and quality issues need to be

integrative healthcare’. It has been well-

Challenges to integration

considered. Plant derived herbals and

positioned globally in an out of the box,

Our current terminology, which alludes

homeopathic remedies are no different

natural health solution seeking world. This

to alternative products or services,

to chemical agents that undergo

growing trend occurs against a backdrop

has become politically inclusive by

scientific and regulatory scrutiny. Since

of globalisation, legislation and migrating

describing them as ‘complementary’.

the health and safety of the patient/

cultures with diverse cultural traditions in

Alternative treatment modalities hopeful

consumer is paramount, in this regard

tow. Besides a host of alternative treatment

of becoming mutually inclusive and thus

industry has a meaningful role to play.

applications and services, the commodity

complementary and integrated with that

By providing the assurance required by

applications of natural, complementary

of the more mainstream sector have a

health professionals, quality assured

gap to bridge through scientific scrutiny

products instil a level of confidence

and validity.

in all stakeholders. Assuring quality


With traditional and deeply entrenched

standards in regulatory submissions

belief systems, popular alternative

and standard operating procedures

treatments face their share of challenges

for Good Manufacturing Practice,

for an acceptable level of integration into

mitigates the risk to manufacturer and


mainstream allopathy. One of which is

patient. Inter-professional confidence

health measures and general well-being has

mainly due to inter-disciplinary practice

can be instilled between alternative and

led to the emergence of a new market PwC

logistics and professional silos with their

allopathic sectors. This would enable

defines as ‘wellcare’. Products in this new health

scopes of practice that dictate the terms

the discovery and development of a

economy encompass a wider range of both

of association. For now, this precludes a

balanced relationship through confident

pharma and non-prescription consumer offerings

true, fully integrative healthcare solution

partnerships via products that could

aimed largely at preventive care, nutrition, fitness

on a broader scale between practitioners

safely benefit the end-user. Of course,

and cosmetic enhancement. PwC estimates

registered across the various professional

this is dependent upon a fluid regulatory

the total global value of the wellcare market is

boards of allopathy and alternative

system that meets on-time demands of

US$674 billion, with many product categories

systems. To each his or her own, an

manufacturers and a respectful willingness

expected to grow at a rate of double digits.

integrated working relationship implies

amongst healthcare practitioners to

an ‘under one roof’ establishment, with

merge their respective domains.


| JULY 2018 | P C Review

PHARMA FOCUS//CAMs & Health Products The growing natural

extraction and purification

healthcare trend is evidenced

processes, and insight into

by consumers’ greater need to

stability profiles become

court nature, especially for oral

crucial areas of control

consumption, in the hope that

compared to consistently

all will be better organically. This implicit

derived chemical

trust in nature has led to a common

synthetics. Implicit trust in

belief that natural is organically good

the integrity of suppliers’

and relatively safer than synthetic

certificates of analysis

medicines. However, this notion needs

may not be so reliant

tempering. Because of its flip side,

these days and visits to

so-called natural products

the source of supply could

carry inherent risks of safety and

be necessary for further

potential untoward reactions

authentication. During

if not clinically understood, nor

transportation, sensitive

fully evaluated and classified for safety, efficacy and quality. This includes the potential risk of drug-

materials require suitable

The emergence of the herbal renaissance has necessitated careful scrutiny of raw materials

storage areas away

seen as self-help wellness commodities by consumers and marketers. Pharmacists, as stockists of these products, require in-depth nutritional insight in relation to drug therapy. This is especially so as nutritional supplements in combination with herbal ingredients are often encountered in proprietary formulations. Such insight needs bolstering through

from volatiles and fluorescent lighting or

relevant education programmes and

where they may be exposed to undue

consultation with dieticians, the latter

vibration. This may even go as far as the

being a prime example of integration

stipulation wooden shelving as opposed

within the mainstream sectors. Such

Alternative medicinal products, from a

to metal, particularly for the stability of

primary integration is complementary in

purely pharmaceutical perspective, as

homeopathic preparations.

the broader sense and does not involve

herb interactions.

Regulatory perspective

well as homeopathic remedies and others

alternative modalities of treatment

of plant, mineral and animal origin, require

More in the mix

unless nutritional therapy supersedes

the best in the business of scientific scrutiny

The South African healthcare scene

drug therapy.

for assured safety, efficacy and quality.

cannot ignore the vast pool of traditional

This is backed by regulatory demand

healers, who practise African traditional

into healthcare scenarios has

and evidenced by the number of quality

medicine, serving a prominent sector of

brought about a paradigm shift in the

control services in product development

the population through their cultural rituals

consumer mind set, as well as patients’

and manufacture, advertised in P C

and indigenous ‘muti’. A deep-set belief

requirements and expectations. The

Review. This shows industry is staying

in ancestral heritage and causality by

natural trend in therapeutics and even

ahead of the pack and cognisant of the

practitioner and patient alike, necessitates

skin care presents new challenges both

need to be proactive, even to the point of

a closer look at an Afro-centric expression

for the practitioner and manufacture

self-regulation. If the South African Health

of holism and indigenous knowledge of

and brand owner. Perhaps these

Products Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA)

medicinal substances inherent in plant

parties need to embrace and

means business as usual with the growing

and animal tissue. Match this with modern

complement each other synergistically,

backlog, then self-regulation on the part of

science and the beating of the drums

thereby enabling holistically safe

manufacturers, becomes ever so critical.

sound numerous challenges.

and effective integrative healthcare

Yet it is hoped SAHPRA, with its intended

The Traditional Health Practitioners Act

The advent of the green revolution

prospects for the South African market,

fast track system, would expedite matters

2007 (Act No 22 of 2007) literally expresses

healthcare practitioners

more effectively in the future.

the spirit of intent by the Department

and patients

of Health, which made provision for a

or consumers. •

The days of pharmacognosy, which vintage pharmacists

Traditional Health Practitioners Council to

would recognise, have

regulate practice, as it also recognises

been replaced by pharmacognisance, of safety, efficacy

the material worth and economic impact of African traditional healers and their medicines. With

and quality, to which

an estimated 200 000+

one should also

African traditional

add value in terms of

healers in South

pharmacoeconomics. On

Africa, the concept of

two fronts, manufacturing

registration to many who

and distribution, including

operate in the informal

the retail sector, the emergence of the herbal renaissance has

sector, appears foreign. Nutritional

necessitated careful scrutiny

supplementation products

of raw materials. Plant source

have also ventured into

variability, cultivation consistency,

the CAMs or CIM domain.

traceability, handling and storage,

More often these are

ABOUT Raj Naidoo is professor emeritus at Nelson Mandela University (NMU), faculty of health sciences, department of pharmacy, based in Port Elizabeth. He conducts teaching and research in an elective programme on complementary and alternative medicine for pharmacy students. Previously, Naidoo taught pharmaceutics and pharma technology. He is also a member of the editorial advisory board of P C Review.

P C Review | JULY 2018 |


PHARMA FOCUS//CAMs & Health Products

UNITED IN THE DRIVE for preventative healthcare The HPA has not rested its efforts to find a practical and workable solution for regulating the CAMs and health supplements industry. It continues to lobby with government and, at the same time, is educating the public on the benefits of preventative healthcare. By Abby Vorster

With the hope of bringing this approach to South Africa, Ascencao says the HPA will continue its high level collaborative efforts with the Department of Health and SAHPRA to strengthen their understanding of CAMs and health supplements. These efforts include the HPA’s listing system, which has been revised to incorporate an electronic notification and registration system used internationally by the


association’s peers. onsumer awareness about

‘We have also upscaled our communications

well-being and preventative

strategy around the benefits of our industry, both

healthcare has evolved. This

through civil and government campaigns detailing

is particularly true among an

how the HPA helps people stay healthy and

ageing population, where people need

contributes to lowered healthcare costs,’ she adds.

to maintain their health for longer with the help of preventative products. Preventative

Collaboration continues

healthcare could play a significant

Wayne Robinson, HPA’s director of scientific and

role in minimising individual demands

regulatory affairs, has been engaging with the ITG,

on South Africa’s public healthcare

which he says is in favour of the HPA’s suggested

system, which caters for 84 percent of the population. It could contribute to keeping the system efficient, affordable and

listing system. ‘Yet there is serious concern regarding the enormous backlog of dossiers both in the pharma and CAMs industries. There is also concern

functioning smoothly yet preventative healthcare

that many registrations will not be assessed in the

products such as complementary medicines (CAMs),

sequence of submission of dates,’ he comments.

vitamins and nutritional supplements continue to be

‘Added to this, SAHPRA has admitted that there is a

misunderstood from a regulatory perspective.

resource constraint within the authority which further

According to the Health Products Association of South Africa (HPA), the proposed regulations are

compounds the situation.’ As noted at the recent CEO meetings with SAHPRA,

untenable for all CAMs and health supplement companies. Yet the HPA is positive that the current situation can be rectified through the CAMs Industry Task Group (ITG) and a collaborative approach with South African Health Products Regulatory Authority (SAHPRA) to determine the best compromises in order to have safe and appropriate Maria Ascencao

the HPA is positive the authority is

HPA is positive the authority is open to fresh ideas

regulations for CAMS and health/ nutritional supplements.

open to fresh ideas to overcome these issues. ‘HPA has requested follow-up engagements directly with SAHPRA to ensure we keep the momentum high,’ adds Robinson. Ultimately, it will require industry involvement, insight into international standards and processes, recognition of foreign registrations in certain jurisdictions

and improved communication between SAHPRA and the industry to find a workable solution for the

Essential for a healthy nation

efficient, appropriate, transparent and cost-effective

Worldwide, there is a category called dietary/food

registration and listing process for CAMs and

supplements or natural health products, which falls

health supplements.

completely outside of the category for medicines.

Wayne Robinson


Time is of the essence, as new product innovation

Maria Ascencao, chairperson of the HPA, says: ‘The

has come to a virtual standstill, as a result of the

European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) is an example

continued regulatory sagas. ‘By stifling future

of a regulator that has developed an excellent system

discoveries and innovations, the regulators are

with the help of scientists and industry stakeholders,

exerting control over South African consumers’ health

to categorise a nutritional or health supplement and

options and preventing an untold number of CAMs

develop guidelines for the associated functional

and nutritional supplement benefits from reaching

claims and permitted substances etc. all focused on

the public, promoting wellness and driving down

bringing health to the nation.’

healthcare costs,’ Ascencao concludes. •

| JULY 2018 | P C Review


July 2018 | Volume 44 | Number 7

What’s hot in inks

and decorative finishes

Shrink sleeves: Your 360˚ shelf shout solution

Bosch steps away from packaging


Your link to the best in ink WITH SO MANY products on the market, each pack has a few seconds to create a lasting impression. Primarily, ‘shelf shout’ is what packaging is about. Striking bold colours, designs, icons and typography must work in harmony to inspire purchases. As easy as it seems, getting the colour right and producing a pack that lives up to a product’s desired intent can be quite a challenge for designers and converters. The process of specifying a colour with a spectral value is easy, the trick lies in the end result. The selection process can be completely overwhelming given the variety of available substrates and decorative finishes. Albeit familiar techniques, embossing, debossing, die-cutting, spot varnishes and more, combined with high quality special effect inks can create unique impactful

BOPP film on wet wipes

secondary packaging. UV paste and flexographic and screen inks remain largely popular owing to their fast curing process. This means printers save energy whilst simultaneously reaching high throughputs. Turn to page 45 for more insight into the latest inks trends and decorative effects. Until next month! Assistant Editor



‘This decision will allow Bosch

a decision to sell its pharma and

to narrow its focus on issues of

food unit’s Packaging Technology

importance for its future. These will

division (PA). This follows intensive and

include the transformation of the Bosch

thorough considerations by the group.

Group and its future digitalisation

It has decided packaging technology

strategy. This extends to the internet

is not part of its core business. PA is

of things and pooling of its resources

involved in project business relating

accordingly,’ says Dr Stefan Hartung,

to specialised areas of the packaging

the Bosch board of management

industry. The company also operates

member responsible for the energy

in a competitive environment in which

and building technology and industrial

the players are small and medium-

technology business sectors.

sized enterprises (SMEs) with a structural advantage. Bosch believes its packaging

He explains Bosch and the PA division will benefit from this decision. ‘A reorganised packaging

technology operations must be

technology business will be able to

placed on a different footing to allow

adapt more flexibly to the diverse

it to react flexibly to the specific

requirements of this typically SME

requirements of the packaging

market. This, while Bosch is able

machinery market. Its special-purpose

to focus its attention entirely on

machinery manufacturer, Robert Bosch

the group’s impending profound

Manufacturing Solutions is a separate

transformation,’ Hartung adds.

entity in Germany and will remain part of the Bosch Group.

The group’s strategy is to structure its operations competitively.

biaxially oriented polypropylene (BOPP) Rayoface facestock film specifically designed for wet wipes applications. This strength of this clear films is derived from its thickness, which is 92 microns. The film has exceptional clarity despite its thickness. It also has a special print and adhesive receptive coating to ensure high quality print performance. The company’s global product manager for labels, Richard Southward says the market for wet wipes has grown considerably over the last few years. ‘Brand managers have tried a number of options to improve consumers’ experience when opening and reclosing packs. We have taken on board the various requirements shared with us and are confident that our strong recloseable film is ideal for large and small packs alike,’ he comments. The film is robust, which allows packs to be easily opened and re-sealed without the loss of stiffness. ‘The fact this performance can be achieved with a mono film eliminates the need to laminate several layers together, which reduces costs and resources,’ says Southward. A variety of print processes, including offset, screen, letterpress and flexography

A Bosch packaging system

can be used to print this particular film. BOPP’s natural resistance to moisture ensures it will perform on a wide range of pack sizes across different applications such as home and personal care products. The company’s sales agent, Jan van Heule provides services to clients in Africa and the South African region.


| JULY 2018 | Packaging Review


Fashion packs your way Beauty brands rely on high quality inks, coatings and finishes to transform ordinary packaging into extraordinary packs with strong shelf appeal. Scratch and chemical abrasion resistance also needs to be taken into consideration when specifying a finish.


he market for print finishes

only enhancing a brand but also the

on cosmetics packaging is

consumer’s experience.

becoming more high end. This is

soft satin feel making them feel and

ColorGen, who says this is especially the

look high value,’ Rodway comments.

case when a finish represents a brand

Its major advantage is the matte

or product.

effect, which prevents finger marks on

a coating or a laminate,’ he explains.

on regulatory compliance when it comes to labelling, which must be attached to the

The technology can be printed economically on individual packs, vials and syringes. CTI’s capability embeds the technology into an ink system that can be incorporated into the existing packaging printing process. This also guarantees billions of packs of vaccines can be individually inspected for quality and safety.

and overprinting.

soft touch feel, achieved using

there is more emphasis

product wastages.

packaging and allows for hot stamping

has moved towards a matte or

For pharma packaging,

It also helps brands save money by lowering

‘It gives all cosmetics products a

according to Quinten Rodway, GM at

‘A big part of the cosmetics market

healthcare products and medical supplies.


In printing, soft touch is a generic reference to any finishing method that adds a velvety soft feel to the print material.

He says the company has witnessed significant growth in high end products with value add

‘Every packaging company in the world

in terms of aesthetics and

that supports pharma and healthcare

tactile effects. It is also

clients just received access to a new

advantageous to have

pipeline of innovation. This will help their

migration compliant inks.

clients improve quality and safety while

product for extended information purposes. Over printable varnishes have


been used for variable information,

Biopharmaceutical products are

coding, batch numbering and expiry

temperature sensitive and any exposure

dates etc.

to temp variances in the cold chain can

‘Most big brand owners use

result in their loss of efficacy. To counter

fluorescent varnishes and foiling for

this issue, Chromatic Technologies

identification and anti-counterfeit

(CTI) introduced a new freeze-warning

purposes,’ Rodway adds.

ink technology. The BlindSpotz ink was

There is also a trend towards using

developed in partnership with the

high end inks and coatings with added

American Thermal Instruments (ATI) to

value laminate and compliant products

help protect brands and consumers of

with low volatile organic compounds. ‘There has been a massive focus on UV inks and coatings where low migration products have been specified. A unique offering is soft touch varnish, which can be applied to most print processes.’ One benefit of soft touch varnish is its strong scuff resistant property. It’s

Soft touch varnish gives all cosmetics products a soft satin feel, making them feel and look high value

creating a better consumer experience. It just requires one print station and the technology can be implemented,’ says Patrick Edson, CTI’s chief marketing officer. The ability to now record data and inspect at packaging level is an economical, dramatic improvement in monitoring and reporting. BlindSpotz is available in UV and water-based flexo, water-based gravure, wet offset, UV wet offset ink formulas and finished devices. Additional technology for devices and on-pack printing is available to alert the user or supplier of thawing, the product warming outside of refrigeration specifications, high-heat damage and tampering. •

ColorGen – Chromatic Ink Technologies – www.

a great tool for emotional marketing and a way of distinguishing a brand or a product from competitor offerings. This water based FDA approved technology is migration compliant, not

The bottle on the left shows the product is safe for use whilst the bottle on the right indicates exposure to temperature variances which has resulted in the loss of product efficacy. This is when the ‘frozen, do not use’ inked text appears.

Packaging Review | JULY 2018 |



The third degree on 360° label coverage Innovation Shrink and Wrap is pushing boundaries in decorative finishes. Aarifah Nosarka looks at what makes this company a one-stop shrink sleeve and label design shop.


he Edenvale based company has

is texture to impart luxury

been working on domed varnish

and create a more visceral

finishes and silkscreen printing,

connection between brand

which is a unique way to add elegance

and consumer.

to products. Daniel Hanson, co-owner of Innovation Shrink and Wrap (ISW),


says the company provides excellent

‘Holographic shrink sleeves

decorative finishes. ‘This is proof we strive

are a reliable security solution

to supply the best to our clients and

to protect branded products

are prepared to take on any complex

against counterfeiting. Our

challenge regardless of quantity.’

sleeves can be engineered

The domed varnish finish is an

to incorporate a tamper-

example. By manipulating PE or metallic

evident holographic strip safely

foil substrates then printing using silk-

attached to the product,’

screening, varnish, and other embossing

Hanson explains.

processes, ISW creates products that

The impressions of holograms on

outshine all others and ensure clients’

hot stamping foils are embossed on a

products stand out.

lacquered, metallised polyester film.

The competition for shelf space has

dergoing Products un rough a th ing am ste el nn tu am ste

A special adhesive coating is used

become more aggressive than ever. This

on the foil, which enables the transfer

is evident in the increasingly advanced

of the holographic image onto the

label decorations used by many

substrate using the company’s adapted

brands. Shrink sleeves create maximum

foiling process.

graphic appeal, allowing the use of custom package shapes and 360° graphic coverage of the container. Many brand managers want a metallic look, and/ or textured feel on their packaging because it gives a more luxurious finish. ISW

The company uses the services


A shrink film can be made to shrink in one direction, unidirectional, monodirectionally or bidirectional.

continues to achieve this whilst delivering the ‘what’s next’, which

of Revolution Rapid Shrink Application (Revo) for its R&D of sleeves, which are applied to uniquely shaped containers. These sleeves incorporate complex decorative designs. Hanson says it is pertinent a beautifully designed and

produced sleeve is not ruined during the final step of application as a result

Shrink sleeve films and on products

of poor R&D. ‘This can ultimately have a

and share the technical knowledge each organisation has. When ISW develops a new sleeve for a customer, this is done in conjunction with Revo to ensure when the sleeve is applied, everything is perfect. Packology in partnership with Revo specialises in short run shrink sleeve applications. ‘This challenges our packing lines because of artwork demands and the primary packaging shapes and gauges requested,’ says Brett Collett, MD of Packology, which has a unique approach to the contract application of shrink sleeves. Customers can enjoy the attention of ISW and Revo’s teams. ‘Our services are ideal for SMEs and start-ups looking to gain market share and brand acceptance. Their challenge is the greatest. They look at ways to launch premium packs without the volumes. It

negative effect on the finished product.’

is assumed low volumes demand basic


required to launch of a premium product.

Revo and ISW have fostered a mutually beneficial relationship, which is reaping the rewards for their shared customers. When the directors of both companies met, they quickly discovered

packaging or high volumes of capital are This is not so as there are affordable options in the market. A professionally decorated product can be produced. This can then be done in short runs to the market,’ says Collett. •

that there was a shared belief that the South African packaging industry should foster a culture of collaboration


| JULY 2018 | Packaging Review

Innovation Shrink and Wrap – Packology –


First lady chair

for GBMSA in four decades


orraine Keyser is the first female

She explains: ‘In the USA and Europe,

elected as chairperson of GBMSA

generics account for about 80 percent

since its inception 41 years ago.

of all medicines dispensed. For every one

Keyser is known in the industry for her

percent increase in generics usage in

role as country manager at Dr Reddy’s.

South Africa there is an annual saving of

She brings over 20 years’ experience in

R30 million for patients or payers. These

pharma manufacturing to this role.

funds could be ploughed back into the

‘I am excited at the prospect of

threaten to undermine health budgets within the private and public sectors.

It is going to be up to the GBMSA board to support manufacturers

health system to assist in the quest for

leading the GBMSA. I look forward

universal healthcare.’

to the opportunities

‘Just as generics have made traditional medicines more affordable, biosimilar

to drive increased


medicines offer the potential for patients

access to healthcare

Keyser’s appointment

to enjoy access to life saving bio-therapies

for more South Africans

comes at a critical time in

at a fraction of the cost of their branded

through greater use

our country’s healthcare

counterparts. It’s going to be up to the

of generic medicines,’

lifecycle. On the one hand

GBMSA board to support manufacturers

she comments.

there is a need for increased

of these medicines and to advocate for

savings and efficiencies

the timeous registration of these products,’

in South Africa has risen to

in order to implement a

she concludes. •

an impressive 64 percent,

sustainable NHI. On the

While the use of generics

Keyser believes there is still significant room for growth.

Lorraine Ke

other, biomedicine and


technology advances


MCA’s new website guided by updated code An updated code, new branding and fresh website were introduced at the MCA’s AGM on 21 June at the Johannesburg Country Club, in Woodmead, Gauteng.


he adoption of the Marketing Code Authority’s

on complaints and any party can lodge a complaint

(MCA) Code v11 and Guidelines v9 was

against one of its member companies. Sanctions and

unanimous at the AGM. This latest version of the

fines may be issued.

code takes into account the global landscape, looking at ethical marketing trends in the US, Europe and the


UK, to ensure South Africa is relevant.

One of goals of the refreshed business to business

Wayne McDuling, chairperson of the MCA, explained

MCA website will be to enable communication between

there is a paradigm shift in the market so Code v11 has

government; medical device, pharma and CAMs

advanced from being rules based to a principles based

businesses; healthcare professionals and consumers. It

system. ‘The rules won’t disappear as they are the

will open up access to healthcare practitioners and the

foundation. Yet ethical marketing needs to be taken to

public to lay complaints in terms of the Code.

a completely new level, which sits within the principles of this practice.’ The MCA Code sets the rules of engagement between the supplier and the healthcare professional

The homepage will feature a detailed infographic with each section hyperlinked to content on the MCA, to provide an easy to use public interface with the authority.

for marketing and selling activities and sponsorship for

All customer facing company staff are expected

educational meetings. It applies to healthcare products

to be certified as competent in the application of the

only and not cosmetics, and disallows funding of any

Code and the new website will continue to provide

entertainment or sporting events. The MCA adjudicates

this functionality.


| JULY 2018 | P C Review

Val Beaumont, MCA’s executive director; Griffith Molewa, head of law enforcement at SAHPRA; and Wayne McDuling, MCA’s chairperson shake hands, showing the industry body and SAHPRA’s willingness to work together to enforce ethical marketing and promotional activities

Company signatories of the MCA’s Code of Marketing Practice are committed to marketing their products to healthcare professionals, patients and consumers in an ethical manner and in line with international best practice. The best interests of the patient or consumer should come first in health product selection. Healthcare professionals should not be incentivised to select any health product, be it medical device, IVD or medicine. The support the industry brings in terms of healthcare education is highly valued and makes a significant contribution to the continuing professional development of healthcare practitioners. •

Marketing Code Authority –


The world of fragrance explored Coschem hosted a creative morning refresher on 13 June with a host of young and passionate presenters who covered everything related to fragrances.

IADSA honours Bruce Dennison


resident of the Health Products Association of South Africa (HPA), Bruce Dennison has

been honoured for his contribution to the International Alliance of Dietary/ Food Supplement Association (IADSA). The association celebrated its 20 th anniversary in June, in London, UK, where the honorary mention of Dennison’s contribution to the global health and wellness industry occurred, much to his surprise. Dennison was on the board of IADSA and previously held the position of vice chair. ‘It is through his auspices that IADSA has been very loyal and helpful to the HPA over these many years,’ says

Delegates, presenters and members of the seminar committee who attended Coschem’s morning refresher on fragrances


the HPA’s Deirdre Allen. ‘This is a very well deserved and an appropriate

arie Aoun of Saint d’Ici,

as customisation, where consumers

honour to Bruce. Congratulations;

the natural and limited

create their own fragrance of choice at

here’s to another 20 years’ service and

edition parfumerie based in

specialised outlets.

dedication to our industry!’

Johannesburg, shared insight into local

Fragrance translation – from mind to

and international natural perfumers

market was the focus of Givaudan’s Vipul

and perfumery brands. She also looked

Suri and Ofentse Tsipa, who discussed

at what constitutes a natural perfume;

the structure and composition of a

discussed isolates, niche markets and

fragrance and the olfactive families.

suppliers and shared industry challenges and opportunities for growth. Fragrance and its application for


Bruce Dennison and IADSA’s outgoing chairman, Ric Hobby of Herbalife

Tiffany de Astui of Carst & Walker

innovation were highlighted by Kelefang

showcased a variety of new fragrances

Mofokeng of Sensory FX. She provided

aimed at the millennial generation.

answers to questions such as what drives

‘Representing over a quarter of the

innovation and why it is crucial to the

global population, millennials are

fragrance industry’s continuing success.

the most influential consumers yet

Mofokeng also revealed how the history of

difficult to define due to their multiple

perfume and fragrance profiles, methods

contradictions,’ explained De Astui.

of production and historical consumption

‘The fragrance wardrobe concept has

set the stage for today’s innovation in

become very popular with millennials

the industry.

because they can personalise and match their scent to their mood,


style and way of life. Their preferred

Zodwa Ndebele of Orkila covered latest

fragrances are often freedom-loving,

fragrance trends. ‘We are seeing more

elegant and playful with fresh, youthful

products on the market formulated with

and sparkling facets that please the

natural ingredients and an increasing

millennial generation.’ •

need for fragrances to support this trend,’ she commented. Genderless fragrances are also on the rise as well

Coschem –

Dennison was given the honour of cutting the cake at IADSA’s 20 th anniversary

P C Review | JULY 2018 |


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| JULY 2018 | P C Review




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Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review July 2018  

South Africa’s business magazine for the pharma, health products and cosmetics manufacturing supply chains. Interesting reads include proces...

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review July 2018  

South Africa’s business magazine for the pharma, health products and cosmetics manufacturing supply chains. Interesting reads include proces...