HAIR CARE
Microbiome research promotes a healthy scalp There is a great demand for hair care products that encourage a healthy scalp. Scalposine, a new active ingredient from BASF, is proven to soothe and purify the scalp by decreasing the production of sebum and replenishing beneficial microbiota. We spoke to Cécile Kalem, global marketing active ingredients, BASF Beauty Creations, to find out more about how the biotics gut health phenomenon has rapidly advanced to a category driver in skin and scalp care.
micro-organisms. Consumers are now seeking solutions that help to combat the side effects of our modern world. What are some common scalp concerns and how do they affect beauty and health? CK: It is well-known that just like the skin, the scalp supports several types of microorganisms living in harmony with our scalp cells. However, what is less well-known, is that the accumulation of dust, pollution and sebum changes the physiological parameters of the scalp, especially its microbiota. An unhealthy scalp is often oily and covered with dandruff and can become sensitive. This is evident in itchiness and prickling or even a burning sensation and pain. Ultimately, scalp conditions can also lead to hair loss. Is there untapped potential for
Although biotics and detox rituals are popular tools to support gut health, they have become key trends in the personal care industry
What trends are shaping the hair care market? CK: Both men and women desire healthy hair, and there is growing awareness that a healthy scalp is key to achieving this goal. However, our lifestyles – along with environmental factors – negatively influence scalp health. This has increased the prevalence of hair and scalp concerns worldwide. Stress, for example, can cause sebaceous glands in the hair follicles to produce too much sebum. In turn, excessive production reduces the number of beneficial bacteria. Meanwhile, urban living can cause dust or pollution to form deposits on the scalp and hair fibres which gradually asphyxiate the essential
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hair care products to help promote scalp health? CK: So far, the solutions available on the market have mainly focused on managing dandruff with anti-fungal ingredients rather than purifying the scalp and resetting its microbial system. Yet, the microbiome is gradually coming into focus in the fight against scalp disorders. Products with prebiotic and probiotic effects and those claiming to be microbiome-friendly are about to conquer the hair care market. Consumers generally associate these terms with health, wellness and sustainability – all of which are key drivers of the personal care industry. What are BASF’s latest findings in this field? CK: We recently conducted a metagenomic study to explore the difference between the microbiota of a normal scalp and that of an oily scalp. For the oily scalp, we found that diversity decreases in some species of microbiota. We were also able to identify six
strains of bacteria that have a significant presence in normal scalps and make a major contribution to overall scalp health. With the help of these findings, we developed our new active ingredient Scalposine. How does Scalposine work?
CK: We believe solutions for helping a scalp to recover must be holistic and target oiliness and scalp irritation while rebalancing the microbiota. Scalposine tackles the impact that modern lifestyles can have on the scalp and its microorganisms. It acts like a scalp detox ritual. Detox diets are popular around the world, ranging from total fasting to simpler food choices. The aim is to keep the body healthy by purifying and purging it of toxins and other negative influences. In the same way, Scalposine aims to rid the scalp of grease and rebalance its microbiotic ecosystem. This hair detox works in two ways. Firstly, Scalposine contributes to the reduction of sebum. In vitro trials showed that it effectively reduces the gene expression of 5α-reductase 1 by 77%. This is the enzyme initiating the process of sebum production. A one-month placebo-controlled clinical study confirmed these results. A mask formula containing Scalposine at 1% was proven to significantly reduce sebum by as much as 20% compared to the placebo after one month of application. At the same time, 82% of volunteers reported an immediate soothing Cécile Kalem, global effect on the scalp, while marketing active some of them even saw their ingredients, BASF Beauty Creations flakiness decrease. This is an important outcome, because dandruff is a pressing concern for many adults.
