Page 1

AFRICA

PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

Quarter 2 2019 | Volume 4 | Number 2

www.pharmacos.co.za

Discover the beauty within Africa with IMCD

Ethnic Care trends that move markets

Cost-effective inspection & coding technologies

The power of innovative beauty ingredients


“ Hair Aficionados Curly & coily. Wild & manageable. Shiny & sleek. Hair has its own individual personality. Understanding multi-ethnic hair, developing tailored scent and care concepts, that’s how we’re offering just the right formula for every individuals crown and glory. We interweave our knowledge about hairy trends and type-specific hair care with our deep hair expertise and are thus facilitating permanently gorgeous and healthy hair. www.symrise.com


Quarter 2 2019 | Volume 4 | Number 2

AFRICA

www.pharmacos.co.za PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

CONTENTS 6 NEWS

Next generation anti-malarial in development

Bu.Ke from Kenya debuts at Beautyworld Middle East

Symrise collaborates with ChemCom

on olfactory R&D

10 EVENTS

Propak West Africa bigger and better in 2019

11 QUALITY ASSURANCE

Practical quality management advice from Intertek

12 ETHNIC CARE

IMCD South Africa reveals its recent developments

Prevent bumps in the road to male grooming

New natural Sensistyle Curl Relaxer from Sensient

How Ethnic hair care found its voice on

social media

Award-winning innovations from Savannah

Fine Chemicals

Shape hair safely with Glyoxylic Acid

12

A perfect partner for formulation innovation 24

Get high quality codes for less

22 PHARMA FOCUS: IMPORTS & EXPORTS

Imperial Logistics receives African accolades

New Senegalese warehouse for Bolloré Logistics

24 INSPECTION, CODING & MARKING

Get high quality codes for less

Omron discusses the importance of vision inspection

26 BEAUTY INNOVATIONS

Introducing Symrise’s collection of miracle oils

SA beauty brands listed with Kenyan retail chain

A refreshing innovation for dry shampoos

Clariant embraces the aluminium-free trend

Aluminiumfree body odour control 30

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2019 |

3


PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

FROM THE EDITOR

THE TEAM

Textured hair remains the hottest in the market

A

frican consumers are embracing

If you’re looking to beef up quality in

their kinks, curls and added

your manufacturing plant, both the quality

melanin content. According to

assurance article from Intertek on page 11

CNBC, multicultural consumers

and the inspection, coding and marking

across the world sometimes spend

feature on page 24 present new ways to

thousands of dollars a year on their hair,

keep consumers safe while maintaining your

contributing to a ‘multibillion dollar black

brand’s reputation.

hair care industry’. Yet the industry wasn’t

On page 26, we share the latest beauty

EDITORIAL Editor: Abby Vorster +27 (0)11 877 6038 abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za Layout & Design: Naresh Budraj Contributors: Andrea Mammes, Jacques Strydom ADVERTISING Sales Executive: Carla Melless +27 (0)83 260 6060 carla.melless@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Anita Raath +27 (0)82 976 6541 anita.raath@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Candida Giambo-Kruger +27 (0)71 438 1918 candida.giambo-kruger@newmedia.co.za Sales Executive: Daleen Filbey +27 (0)83 409 3119 daleen.filbey@newmedia.co.za INTERNATIONAL SALES Germany/Austria/Switzerland: Eisenacher Medien Erhardt Eisenacher +49 228 249 9860 info@eisenacher-medien.de Italy: Ngcombroker Giacomo Rotunno +39 370 101 4694 g.rotunno@ngcombroker.com

sustainable and natural beauty products,

Taiwan: Ringier Trade Media Sydney Lai +886 4 2329 7318 sydneylai@ringier.com.hk

their hair with little or no knowledge of the

unconventional chemistry in the form of a

CIRCULATION

damaging effects of the chemical process. It

new generation polymer for dry shampoos

was also largely unheard of for mainstream

and a natural functional active that delivers

Circulation Manager: Felicity Garbers +27 (0)21 701 1566 felicity.garbers@newmedia.co.za

brands to tailor formulations to address the

aluminium-free body odour control in

unique needs of textured hair and dark

deodorant formulations.

PUBLISHING TEAM

always this lucrative. In the ’90s, African women relaxed

skin tones. Thankfully, these issues have

innovations we love, which include oils for

We welcome your news and views, so

General Manager: Dev Naidoo Publishing Manager: Natalie Da Silva +27 (0)11 877 6281 natalie.dasilva@newmedia.co.za

changed, with the once glaring omission

remember to keep in touch with us. Connect

of shampoos, conditioners and hair oils

with us on social media by liking the

specifically designed to suit textured hair

@PharmaceuticalCosmeticReview Facebook

Art Director: David Kyslinger

now filling hair care shelves online and

page or following @SApharmacos on twitter

in stores. The sheer size of the Ethnic care

and @pharmacosreview on Instagram. You

JOHANNESBURG OFFICE

category is evident in this edition of P C

can also send an email to

Africa, which includes a bumper feature

abby.vorster@newmedia.co.za to discuss

on category aligned ingredients, trends

your ideas for editorial

and technologies. Turn to page 12 now

contributions or share your

to read about IMCD’s new principal, Koel

news, to be published in the

Colours, which will bring world class cost-

next edition of P C Africa.

effective pigments and dyes for pharma and personal care applications to the African

Production Controller: Mandy Ackerman

New Media Publishing, Ground floor, Media Park, 69 Kingsway Avenue, Auckland Park, 2092 Tel: +27 (0)11 877 6111, Fax: +27 (0)11 877 6198 POSTAL ADDRESS PO Box 784698, Sandton, Johannesburg, 2146 Published by New Media, a division of Media24 (Pty) Ltd. MANAGEMENT TEAM MANAGING DIRECTOR: Aileen Lamb

Enjoy the read!

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR: Maria Tiganis

market. The formaldehyde-free natural

BRAND STRATEGY DIRECTOR: Andrew Nunneley

relaxer technology from Sensient, Sensistyle

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER: Venette Malone

Curl Relaxer, is also featured as well as the safer hair straightening active from Dow, Glyoxylic Acid 50H.

HEAD OF HR: Camillah West CEO: MEDIA24: Ishmet Davidson HEAD OFFICE

ADVERTISERS’ INDEX CECOSA.............................................................27........................ www.cecosa.co.za ChemSystems ..................................................20....................... www.chemsystems.co.za Croda SA...........................................................17........................ www.crodapersonalcare.com H&R Africa.........................................................IBC...................... www.hur.com IMCD SA ............................................................OFC.................... www.imcdgroup.com ISW Shrink..........................................................5.......................... www.iswshrink.co.za Kirsch Pharma SA.............................................23 ...................... www.kirschpharma.com Lubrizol Advanced Materials Europe.............OBC.................... www.lubrizol.com Nautica Organic Trading ...............................16........................ www.nauticaorganics.com o6 Agencies SA................................................21........................ www.o6southafrica.com Omron Electronics ...........................................25....................... www.industrial.omron.co.za Savannah Fine Chemicals..............................19........................ www.savannah.co.za Sensient Technologies South Africa...............15........................ www.sensient-cosmetics.com Siyakha Imperial Printing ................................7.......................... www.labelprint.co.za SOFW Journal...................................................9.......................... www.hpci-events.com Symrise SA ........................................................IFC...................... www.symrise.com

New Media House, 19 Bree Street, Cape Town 8001 PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Tel: +27 (0)21 417 1111, Fax: +27 (0)21 417 1112 www.newmedia.co.za

Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa is published by New Media four times a year and circulates to manufacturers, packers and distributors of pharmaceuticals, health products, cosmetics, detergents, soaps, toiletries and allied products. The journal is an up-to-date source of reference for company directors, factory and production managers, marketing executives, engineers, import agents, buyers and research personnel. While precautions have been taken to ensure the accuracy of its contents and information given to readers, neither the editor, publisher, or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise therefrom. All rights reserved. © Pharmaceutical Cosmetic Review Africa. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, photocopying, electronic, mechanical or otherwise without the prior written permission of the copyright owners. Pharmaceutical

Cosmetic Review Africa is printed by Tandym.

Copyright: all rights reserved.

4

| QUARTER 2 2019 | P C Africa


NEWS

Next-generation antimalarial drug in development THE EUROPEAN & DEVELOPING Countries

African Leaders Malaria Alliance showed high levels of

Clinical Trials Partnership (EDCTP) has granted €10

concern around resistance to some of the current gold

million in funding for antimalarial drug development.

standard treatments, including artemisinin combination

The funding will be allocated over five years to late-

therapies (ACTs), in Asia. It is likely the resistance could

stage clinical trials of a next-generation antimalarial

spread to Africa, emphasising the urgent need for novel

combination including KAF156 (ganaplacide). The trials

and easy to administer antimalarial medicines.

will be conducted in Burkina Faso, Gabon, Mali

KAF156 holds the potential to be the first new

and Niger.

The EDCTP funding will support efforts to strengthen clinical research infrastructure in Niger, as well as existing clinical research capacities at all other trial sites involved

chemical class of compound for the treatment of

Led by the WANECAM consortium (West African

acute malaria in 20 years. When used in combination

Network for Clinical Trials of Antimalarial Drugs), 10

with the new formulation of lumefantrine, it could

academic organisations based in Africa and Europe

be administered as a single dose treatment. The

from malaria. If successful, data from these trials will

will collaborate with the NGO, Medicines for Malaria

combination is currently in late stage clinical trials

support future submissions to register the medicine with

Venture (MMV) and pharmaceutical company, Novartis

across 17 centres in nine countries in Africa and Asia.

regulatory authorities.

to advance its compound KAF156 in combination with a

It is being developed by Novartis with scientific

new formulation of lumefantrine. The aim is to advance

and financial support from MMV (in collaboration

improved treatment with ACTs, by 2017, malaria mortality

the development of a much needed, new antimalarial

with the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation). It is one

had more than halved in sub-Saharan Africa. Yet over

therapy while strengthening clinical trial development

of seven late-stage antimalarials being developed

400 000 people died in the same year as a result of

capabilities in Africa.

by MMV partnerships. The EDCTP grant will fund two

malaria-related causes. Most of them were young

clinical trials for KAF156 in combination with a new

children under the age of five. The most recent 2018

in malaria control over the past 20 years, yet the rate

formulation of lumefantrine. This will include studying its

World Malaria Report stated ‘progress in the fight against

of progress has recently diminished. A recent survey by

effectiveness in children, the group most at risk of dying

the disease is flattening for the second year in a row’. •

Global partnerships have made significant strides

Due to better prevention, mainly via bednets, and

Technology Crailsheim, the

KENYAN ARTISAN BRAND SHOWCASED AT BEAUTYWORLD MIDDLE EAST

headquarters of its Pharma Business

BU.KE FROM KENYA was among the hand-picked brands

Unit in Germany, hosted its Pharmatag

from across the globe which were featured during the Ready to

2019 event.

Beauty showcase at Beautyworld Middle East. The brand selected

BOSCH HIGHLIGHTS LIQUID PHARMACEUTICALS IN THE DIGITAL AGE ON 21 AND 22 MAY Bosch Packaging

A total of 300 international

for answering the needs of consumers with darker skin tones and

participants attended.

curlier hair textures.

The new Crailsheim site manager, Dr Alexander Giehl comments: ‘We presented an exciting mixture of classic special

BU.KE is an artisan brand of handcrafted, luxurious unique hair Stefan Schuh of Bosch Packaging Technology Crailsheim, who led the the plant tour

and skin care products formulated with shea butter, bentonite clay, cocoa butter, sage and green and purple teas. Its newest launch is the BU.KE Tea Range, featuring a purple tea adaptogenic shampoo

machinery and innovative, digital

technology visualises production data

bar, purple tea deep repair mask, green tea nourish and strengthen

technologies, which distinguish

in real time. The data collected can

shampoo, green tea leave in custard and a purple tea skin repair

Bosch Packaging Technology and

then be evaluated and provides the

facial cleanser.

the Crailsheim location.’

basis for process optimisation.

During the plant tour, participants

‘With our broad portfolio,

The 24th edition of Beautyworld Middle East took place from 31 May to 2 June in Dubai, in the UAE. The show featured 1 790

could look behind the scenes

we cover the entire life cycle of

exhibitors from 66 countries, covering six cosmetics and skin

at production in Crailsheim, to

pharmaceuticals and machines,’

care categories, machinery, packaging, raw materials, contract

experience established machine

says Uwe Harbauer, a Robert Bosch

manufacturing, salon supplies, fragrance compounds and finished

concepts and individual customer

Packaging Technology management

fragrances, personal care and hygiene and natural and organic. •

projects in action. These included

board member and head of the

an integrated concept of the ALF

pharma division. ‘Our goal is to

5000 filling and closing machine with

support our customers in their daily

isolator for the aseptic filling of highly

challenges in the best possible way.

potent products.

We are expanding our portfolio in the

Bosch presented a line

high performance range and for the

developed together with a leading

flexible processing of small batches. At

pharmaceutical manufacturer,

this year's Pharmatag, we also showed

including an integrated robot

we are moving into the next era with

for the precise and safe filling of

visionary technologies, innovative

biopharmaceuticals. The Pharma i 4.0

services and digital solutions together

Starter Edition was also on display. This

with our customers.’ •

6

| QUARTER 2 2019 | P C Africa

The new BU.KE Tea Range


NEWS

NEW OIL TOLERANT LABELSTOCK FROM LINTEC IDEAL FOR OILY surfaces and

labelling of cosmetics and foods,

effective solution to this common

substrates that would typically need to

steel, automobile components and

problem. The innovative oil absorbent

be cleaned before label application,

as industrial identification labels.

qualities of the labelstock provide

Lintec’s new labelstock range features a

The labelstocks can be printed with

excellent adhesion to even the greasiest

strong oil-absorbing adhesive.

conventional ink or thermal transfer

of surfaces that would usually interfere

ribbon and will remain legible and firmly

with adhesion.’

The range consists of 0T8060 white polypropylene film, 0T5040 white

affixed under all conditions.

polyester and OT5050 clear polyester

Soichiro Fujinaga, technical

Fujinaga concludes: ‘The range demonstrates Lintec’s ongoing

film. These options adhere firmly to

manager of Lintec Europe, comments:

commitment to innovation and ability to

smooth and textured substrates and

‘Within industries such as cosmetics,

provide solutions that meet the growing

can be directly applied, eliminating

automobiles and food, it can be difficult

demands of businesses across a range

the need to degrease surfaces before

for labels to adhere and remain intact

of industries. We hope with this solution,

application. This saves considerable

on oily products. With the introduction

brand owners can remain assured and

production time and cleaning material

of the oil absorbing labelstock range,

have peace of mind that the quality of their

costs. The range is ideal for general

we hope to present a simple yet

label will not be compromised.’ •

Lintec’s new oil absorbing label stock is ideal for labelling oil based cosmetics

Symrise and ChemCom

collaborate to combat body odour Symrise is one of the first companies in the scent

Symrise has a comprehensive range of fragrance raw

industry with the capability to influence the perception

materials, which could potentially influence odour

of undesired odours in a targeted manner through

receptors and block bad odours.

receptor interactions. Thanks to many years of research

‘The cooperation with ChemCom will help us

and cooperation with Prof. Dr Hanns Hatt of Ruhr

expand our Neofresh range with specific blockers

University Bochum, evidence shows odours can also

that efficiently combat bad odours,’ says Dr Marco

be ‘switched off’ using certain aromatic substances.

Singer, head of fragrance performance at Symrise.

The global company employs this principle of odour

‘This is a unique approach and can be combined

modulation in its Neofresh technology platform, which

with our fragrances with outstanding results. We

combats bad odours of all types. For example, Symrise

look forward to bringing this new technology to the

has developed a fragrance that blocks the molecule

market and providing consumers with effective odour

WORKING IN COLLABORATION with the

trimethylamine, which gives off an unpleasant fishy

stopping products.’

Belgian biotech company, ChemCom, Symrise is

smell, in a targeted manner.

The neutralisation of unpleasant odours is a research field of immense relevance to Symrise

researching human olfactory receptors. Their aim

To expand the Neofresh platform, Symrise hopes

Christian Van Osselaer, MD of ChemCom, adds: ‘We are excited about working with a

is to identify and develop aromatic substances that

to neutralise additional unpleasant odours at the

leading company like Symrise. This cooperation

can neutralise unpleasant odours. Symrise already

receptor level. The partnership with ChemCom will help

brings us closer to consumers and is an

holds a broad range of raw materials encompassing

achieve this. The Belgian biotech company is a global

opportunity to demonstrate the effectiveness of

potentially suitable candidates. ChemCom is now

leader in research into human olfactory receptors.

blockers in comparison to traditional products.

supplying the technical possibilities for searching

With its Biological Nose, ChemCom also possesses a

Together, Symrise and ChemCom are in a position

through the Symrise database for substances that

technology that can imitate the human sense of smell

to reshape an entire category of consumer

block olfactory receptors.

and facilitate the search for suitable receptor-blockers.

products worldwide.’ •

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2019 |

7


DIARY

AFRICA

PHARMACEUTICAL & COSMETIC REVIEW AFRICA

2019 SUBSCRIPTION FORM To ensure you receive a copy of P&C Review Africa each quarter, please complete this coupon and return it, together with your payment to: Circulation Department, NEW MEDIA PUBLISHING (Pty) Ltd, PO Box 440, Green Point, Cape Town 8051 Tel +27 21 701 1566. Fax 086 529 6468. Full Name:........................................................................................... Designation: ........................................................................................ Company: ........................................................................................... Postal Address:................................................................................... .................................................................Code:................................. Country: .............................................................................................. Tel: (

)....................................... Fax: (

) ..................................

E-mail:................................................................................................. Main activity of company:................................................................... Approximate number of employees: .................................................. VAT No: ............................................................................................... Signature:............................................................................................ Method of payment:

Direct Deposit (Fax this form together with a copy of your

Bank:

Acc No:

Gallagher Convention Centre, Midrand, South Africa www.expogr.com/kenyappp

Cosmoprof North America 28 to 30 July Mandala Bay Convention Centre, USA www.cosmoprofnorthamerica.com

August Plastics, Printing, Packaging Africa 2019 1 to 3 August Kenyatta International Convention Centre, Kenya www.expogr.com/ kenyapppentre

September

Gallagher Convention Centre,

4 to 5 September Gauteng www.hpci-events.com/south-africa

Credit Card (Mastercard & Visa only) Name of card: .............................................................................

Africa Print Expo 2019

Expiry Date: ................................................................................

11 to 13 September

Card Number: .............................................................................

Gallagher Convention Centre, Gauteng

Date: ........................................................................................... Signature:....................................................................................

www.africaprintexpo.com

Propak West Africa 17 to 19 September Landmark Centre, Lagos, Nigeria

TAX INVOICE REQUIRED

www.propakwestafrica.com

(Please tick) SOUTH AFRICA

(PRICES INCLUDE VAT @ 15%)

8

9 to 11 July

1069321540

CVC Number...............................................................................

Analytica Lab Africa

New Media Publishing (Pty) Ltd .

Nedbank Seapoint

Branch Code: 10-69-09-00

July

2019

Coschem Scientific Conference & HPCI Expo

deposit slip to: +27 086 529 6468 Payee:

WHAT'S ON IN

FOREIGN

Labelexpo Europe 24 to 27 September

1 YEAR

R315.00 ❑

R392.00 ❑

Brussels Expo, Belgium

2 YEAR

R514.00 ❑

N/A

www.labelexpo-europe.com

| QUARTER 2 2019 | P C Africa


Picture Credits: Š edwardderule, Victoria, mimacz / Fotolia.com


EVENTS

West African packaging event keeps on growing Propak West Africa will be bigger and better in 2019 with an additional 25 percent of exhibition space. The organisers have also confirmed Sasol as Gold Sponsor for this year’s edition. Scenes from the very successful 2018 edition of Propak West Africa

T

he Landmark Centre in Lagos,

operating in 33 countries. Sasol’s chemicals,

its efforts in West Africa as the Gold

Nigeria will open its doors on

polymers, solvents and wax divisions market

Sponsor for 2019.

17 September for the start of the

and supply value-added products and

seventh edition of Propak West

services to the global plastics, packaging

NEXT LEVEL CONFERENCE

and personal care industries.

With more than 5 000 visitors expected

Africa. The show runs for three days until 19 September. Having gown consistently year on year since its inception, Propak West Africa has become the region’s largest and most attended exhibition for packaging, plastics, printing and food-processing. In 2018, Propak West Africa welcomed 4 265 attendees, marking an astonishing 31 percent increase in visitor numbers from

and over 200 supplier brands on display,

PROPAK WEST AFRICA HAS GROWN BY A TOTAL OF TWO THIRDS IN JUST TWO YEARS

the 2017 show. The size of the show itself also grew by almost half with the addition

this year’s exhibition is set to be the largest Propak West Africa to date. With a number of new exhibitors joining the fold this September, organisers are confident there will be plenty for visitors to see and do. Among the new supplier brands to join the 2019 exhibitor list are Emsur Macdonell, Hosokawa Alpine, Starlinger & Co, BBM, Holland Colours Europe together with

The company’s wax division

Global Polytech Africa, Five Thousand Miles

of a third hall. A total of 32 countries were

develops and produces one of the most

Nigeria, Atlas Copco Nigeria and Zutrad

represented by exhibitors and visitors alike,

comprehensive ranges of mineral oil-

Ventures. Propak West Africa will feature a

which saw the show establish itself as a truly

based and synthetic paraffin waxes

co-located conference with a programme

international event.

as well as petroleum jellies used in

angled at current industry trends,

candle manufacturing, personal care

overcoming challenges in business and

year’s expo, organisers have decided to

and cosmetics products, packaging,

remaining abreast of global developments.

increase the floorspace by 25 percent to

pharmaceuticals and other industrial

With so much happening in the West African

accommodate the increasing demand to

applications. Through its backward

packaging, plastics and printing market,

exhibit. Companies already confirmed to

integration into Fischer-Tropsch technology

participate in 2019 are Bobst, Ishida Europe,

waxes, Sasol’s wax

from some of the world’s

PanAsia Tech, Sasol, Snetor, SkySat and

division provides a

leading brands will be in

Windmoeller & Hoelscher.

sustainable feedstock

attendance to share market

Following the enormous success of last

George Pearson, regional director for Afrocet Montgomery, comments: ‘The additional hall space allocated for 2019

solution for the future to global markets. at Propak West

a total of two thirds in just two years. This,

Africa for the

coupled with the fact that more than 80

first time in

percent of the stand space is already sold

2018. Thanks

for the upcoming exhibition, is evidence

to the show’s

of the market’s growth and opportunity for

increasing

development in West Africa.’

success, the company

GOING FOR GOLD

decided to

Recently announced as the Gold Sponsor of

maximise

Propak West Africa, Sasol is an international

insights, opportunities and know-how with

Sasol exhibited

means Propak West Africa has grown by

it has been said ‘experts

the conference audience’. •

Visit www.propakwestafrica.com to register as a visitor or to book your stand to exhibit at Propak West Africa 2019.

integrated chemicals and energy company Scenes from the very successful 2018 edition of Propak West Africa

10

| QUARTER 2 2019 | P C Africa


QUALITY ASSURANCE

Get back to basics Practical management of quality system elements is the key to using ISO 9001 and applying quality management effectively. Advances in technology certainly assist in the maintenance of management systems and overall quality.

amidst tech advances

By Andrea Mammes, Intertek Aston Manor

change management and approval by

motors, relays and solenoids) were not

specified personnel.

formally recorded, and only anecdotal evidence of performance and reliability

CORRECTIVE ACTION SYSTEM

was available. This resulted in incorrect

The implementation of a formal system

decisions being made on supplier

to record issues proved to be an eye-

selection, as unreliable motors were

t is easy to get tantalised by technology.

opener for management. Non-reporting of

sometimes sourced. These eventually

While it’s necessary to utilise technology

problems, complaints and issues assured

proved problematic, including repairs

for efficiency, mistake-proofing and

an ongoing stream of complications, which

being undertaken at client installations.

control, it cannot replace the basic

costed money and directly affected the

I

principles of quality management in any

company's bottom line.

of components testing provided realistic

manufacturing environment from pharma and cosmetics to mining. One illustration comes from an established manufacturing company in Wynberg, Joburg, South Africa. The company designs, manufactures and installs turnstiles and booms for various industries. As the family owned business grew, controls became more difficult and systems were informal at best. In the first year of operating a formal quality management system, the company

THE IMPLEMENTATION OF A FORMAL SYSTEM TO RECORD ISSUES PROVED TO BE AN EYE-OPENER FOR MANAGEMENT

information about the performance of specific components and situations (e.g. reliability of motors in heat-stressed environments and the number of cycles of operation of relays before failure). Fully assembled products were tested inhouse and records have been retained of pertinent information such as the number of cycles and operating temperatures (i.e. winter and summer performance). This has reduced incorrect procurement decisions dramatically. This meant the current cost of

reduced the cost of poor quality by 90 percent, a saving of over R145 000. How

The implementation of documented test protocols and performance tracking

The basic principles embodied in the

poor quality is < R20 000, amounting to an

could it achieve this, without implementing

‘improvement’ clauses of ISO 9001 were

annual saving of over R120 000. Ongoing

anything else than a formal QMS? It

established. All problems were logged.

efforts will further reduce this. •

applied the basic principles of quality.

Root causes of each problem were assessed and identified, using established

DOCUMENT CONTROL

techniques, such as 5-Why and Fishbone

Being a design and manufacturing

Analysis. These solved over 90 percent of

operation, technical manufacturing

the existing issues in one year.

drawings issued to the floor were

The company’s corrective action system

previously issued without any form of

now includes calculating the cost of every

version control, or control over design

NC recorded (e.g. labour hours, materials

changes. This resulted in parts being

used for repair and the replacement cost

processed incorrectly, due to drawing

of components etc.). This enables the

errors, or confusion over which version to

company to focus on addressing the issues

use. In many cases, the individually and

with the biggest cost implications (using

separately manufactured parts could

Pareto analysis). This system has matured

not be assembled correctly until further

from a fire-fighting mechanism to one of

rework could be done. This was addressed

continual improvement.

through strict control over drawings. Version were issued to specific work stations. Design

DESIGN CONTROLS AND RETENTION SAMPLES

changes to drawings could only

Trials conducted on components used

be achieved after a formal process of

in the turnstile manufacture (such as

controls were established, and drawings

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Andrea Mammes is a lead auditor for business assurance at Intertek subSaharan Africa. She qualified in QMS ISO 9001 and has evolved into an ISO 22716 (GMP) auditor for cosmetics manufacturing. Send an email to info.africa@intertek.com for more information on the services offered by Intertek.

Intertek – www.intertek.com

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2019 |

11


ETHNIC CARE

A perfect partner for formulation innovation

IMCD South Africa has developed an excellent reputation among customers for its one stop shop solution. The company continues to expand in Africa, bringing a broad range of speciality chemicals and food ingredients to the market. By Abby Vorster

O

n 1 April, Ryan Harrison

customers’ technical questions. The

(Koel). Based in India, Koel has emerged

joined IMCD South Africa as

technical managers play a crucial role in

as a leading supplier of superior quality

managing director. He takes

developing various tools to help the sales

of colours for the personal care and

over from Otto Brinkmann,

team promote IMCD’s portfolio, which

pharmaceutical industries.

who has retired. Brinkmann joined the company in May 1982, which was then

answers market trends. Providing a link between the sales

At the HPCI India exhibition in March, the company received the Innovation

Chemimpo SA and which IMCD acquired

team, markets worldwide and IMCD’s

Award in the category Best Ingredients

in 2013. He started as a sales representative

laboratories, these managers define the

for Altered Black. This unique innovation

and moved through the ranks to eventually

focus of projects and collaborate with

boasts a ground-breaking technology

become MD. During Brinkmann’s time with

customers on formulation development.

that provides non-nano, water dispersible

the company it has grown consistently at

They are equipped to provide customised

and dust-free carbon black for cosmetics

a rate of between 20 and 30 percent per

ingredient proposals or ready to use

and personal care applications.

annum. He attributes this success to the

concepts for a total solutions approach.

This award from SOFW Journal’s HPCI

IMCD’s personal care laboratories,

Events recoginses Koel’s endeavours

strong supplier focus of IMCD.

including the Ethnic Hair Care Centre

to excel in the industry, by developing

in chemistry and applied chemistry; he

of Excellence in Johannesburg, South

unique technologies that aim to

served as MD of Chemfit for the last 10

Africa, are used as supportive facilities

empower the formulators to produce

years. His experience spans coatings,

to develop synergies within the portfolios

improved innovations.

surfactants and animal health and

of its suppliers. These labs also develop

nutrition. In Harrison’s new role, he will

formulation prototypes that answer

inorganic pigments as well as oil and

drive the development and execution

new trends, carrying out projects

water-soluble colours for cosmetics

of IMCD’s strategy and expand the

designed by the technical team and

and personal care applications.

company’s range of applications and

they develop knowledge on ingredients

expertise in all segments of the South

and formulation concepts, for future

for nail care, colour mud for lip care

African and Kenyan markets.

interaction with the sales team and

applications and a special grade of

IMCD’s customers.

carbon black.

Harrison holds a BSC honours degree

GLOBAL TECHNICAL EXCELLENCE chemicals and food ingredients

PIGMENTS AND DYES FROM KOEL COLOURS

distributor, IMCD operates 45 laboratories

IMCD is proud to be appointed a

in over 20 countries. The company’s

distributor of Koel Colours

To support its role as a leading speciality

focused laboratory technical teams are at the heart of its technical operations, building, maintaining and expanding relationships with suppliers and customers to create growth opportunities and deliver value. Its regional technical managers have active contact within all technical operations and are both customer and market facing. They provide one technical point of contact for the IMCD sales team and its customers. They also support IMCD’s sales operations and provide backing for answering

12

| QUARTER 2 2019 | P C Africa

Koel specialises in organic and

It also manufactures colour solutions


ETHNIC CARE

formulators with enhanced compatibility of organic materials such as natural oils,

CLR’S ADAPTOGENIC APPROACH TO SKIN HEALTH Obtained from an edible South American fruit, Annona cherimola, AnnonaSense CLR from CLR Berlin, an IMCD principal, is proven to establish a sustainable homeostatic balance in the skin. This highly effective and sustainable active

GET HOT HAIR WITH ASHLAND

butters and esters while maintaining

With the new Advantage Revive polymer,

the unique sensory characteristics,

Ashland – an IMCD principal – brings a

performance and skin safety imparted

much-needed refresher to the

by silicones.

dry shampoo category.

Offered in a range of volatile

The polymer is

and non-volatile alkane fluids, all

based on a unique

SiAPP elastomers are globally

polyvinylpyrrolidone

compliant, vegan friendly

(PVP) chemistry

and unrelated to any palm

process. It leaves

or RSPO issues. The SiAPP

hair feeling cleaner

elastomer series consists

and looking shinier

of four high performing

lustre to match the appearance of freshly washed hair. Advantage Revive can be used in aerosol and non-

the skin’s endovanilloid system (EVS), are reduced and a stable balance is established between ECS and EVS. Skin is less sensitive and more balanced with AnnonaSense CLR; even itchiness could perceivably be reduced. It also improves the appearance of the skin, while a consumer study showed the perception of well-being and quality of life

With its two new silicone resins, Belsil B 110 and Belsil R 220, Wacker is tapping into trends for controlling the reflective properties of skin, colour cosmetics and hair. In day creams and foundations, the spherical particles of Belsil B 110 silicone resin fill out wrinkles or skin imperfections, creating an even skin appearance. They also scatter light to provide a matte finish. Belsil R 220 is a film-forming silicone resin designed for use in nail varnishes. It has a high refractive index resulting in a high gloss, water-resistant surface. Wacker – represented throughout Africa by IMCD – has also launched the new gum blend Belsil eco GB 1020, which is based on biomethanol. The gum blend acts as a conditioning agent to combat split ends. It can be formulated in hair masks and conditioners and is suitable for skin care applications, particularly skin softening lotions.

from IMCD.

Amaze SP polymer is a new entry into

THE COMPANY’S FOCUSED LABORATORY TECHNICAL TEAMS ARE AT THE HEART OF ITS TECHNICAL OPERATIONS

the hair styling market, designed to offer consumers a more natural hold. It can be formulated into a variety of hair styling products ranging from mousses and creams to certain sprays. The product is derived from a natural source and manufactured using an ecoconscious process to deliver a sustainable styling polymer. According to Nouryon, an IMCD principal, its performance is said to be ‘previously unseen’ by formulators.

were improved.

EXPANDED BELSIL LINE FROM WACKER

and Gransil SUG. SiAPP elastomers are available throughout Africa

NOURYON’S ADVANCED STYLING POLYMER

supporting the body’s endocannabinoid induced by the TRPV1 receptor, part of

Gransil GVL-912, Gransil OGH

aerosol dry shampoo applications.

ingredient activates the CB2 receptor, system (ECS). Inflammatory processes

materials: Gransil GVL-LITE;

with enhanced

While it can be compared to some of the At in-cosmetics Global the Ashland

synthetic or partially synthetic offerings on

hair care team commemorated PVP’s 80th

the market, Amaze SP polymer provides

anniversary, celebrating the evolution of

additional benefits that truly differentiate

hair styles from the ’50s until today. The

it from what formulators have come to

team created unique styling formulas that

accept as the norm for styling polymers.

allow consumers to re-create the classic

Amaze SP polymer is a unique, natural

‘rockabilly’ look of the ’50s with a smooth

hair styling film former derived from the

control wax featuring AquaStyle 300 N,

homopolymer of Itaconate, which has

the mod styles of the ’60s with Styleze 2000

been polymerised in the presence of

polymer and the rocker hair of the ’80s

base, under green processing conditions,

with Styleze CC-10 polymer.

with water as the only solvent. The process uses very low energy and produces zero

GRANT INDUSTRIES’ SIAPP ELASTOMERS

waste or by-products. As the Itaconate

There are many types of silicone-based

suitable for use in Eco-cert and Cosmos

ingredients, which Grant Industries says

approved formulations.

should not all be classified in the same

source is non-GMO, this styling polymer is

The polymer is supplied as a powder

way. For example, silicone reactive

that can be easily incorporated into

intermediates are very different from

aqueous based formulations; it also offers

silicone elastomer polymers and silicone

some compatibility with ethanol.•

cyclic and linear fluids. Featuring the combined benefits of nature and science, Grant Industries’ new SiAPP elastomer series provides

IMCD South Africa – www.imcdsa.co.za

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2019 |

13


ETHNIC CARE

Prevent bumps in the road to grooming The male grooming market is booming. All races, including Ethnic men, are paying more attention to their appearance. This presents a progressive opportunity to suppliers of ingredients that answer the specific needs of men with darker skin tones and textured hair.

I

t’s true – skin is skin – but certain skin types are prone to specific problems. Darker skin tones, in particular Ethnic men, have unique skin care concerns,

including Pseudofolliculitis barbae or razor bumps. Pseudofolliculitis barbae is a common condition of the beard area occurring in

too. The most effective way to reduce shine

45 to 90 percent of all African men (and

is to use a moisturiser or serum formulated

in people with curly or textured hair). The

with a mattifying active ingredient. Bix’Activ

problem occurs with the re-growth of

from BASF Care Creations helps reduce

coiled hairs, which can cause inflamed

the activity of sebaceous gland for a

and painful bumps on the skin. Keloidal

mattifying effect.

scarring (or hard bumps) may develop over time on the beard and neck area.

In vitro testing of sebum production Pseudofolliculitis barbae. Clinical tests

using 0.02 percent Bix’Activ showed

conducted on 10 volunteers with sensitive

a reduction of 28 percent in African

bumps is to stop shaving. Growing a beard

skin found that Anasensyl decreases

sebocytes, 11 percent in Caucasian

gives the ingrown hairs time to break

neurogenic inflammation. Test results

sebocytes and 17 percent in Asian

through the skin and come to the surface.

showed an after-shave balm containing

sebocytes. In vivo testing of Bix’Activ at 0.25

Papules and pustules are developed as

one percent Anasensyl significantly

percent showed a 53 percent reduction in

a result of ingrown hairs, and will also

reduced skin redness post shaving.

active pores and a 71 percent reduction

gradually disappear.

This effect was improved overtime with

in the rate of sebum excretion after 56

repeated applications.

days. These results indicate the inclusion

The most common way to address razor

Because growing a beard isn't suitable for all men, consumers may consider

of Bix’Activ in mattifying products for the

razor blades, or chemical depilatories for

REDUCE SHINE AND SEBUM PRODUCTION

grooming, as well as regular exfoliation.

Head shaving is also popular among

ingredient proposed to reduce pore

There are also serums and treatment

Ethnic men. While some men prefer to

size and sebum production. This natural

products on the market which increase

have a shiny head, others like more of a

botanical extract has been clinically tested

and improve the general tolerance of the

matte look. The shine on a shaved head is

for its efficacy to address concerns around

skin. These products are formulated with

dependent on two factors:

pore size. Results showed Atriclear refines

unique active ingredients to reinforce skin’s

1. the closeness of the shave

and improves skin texture by reducing pore

resistance to daily stresses.

2. the amount of oil produced by

apertures, and firming and toning the skin,

using electric clippers, single edged

the scalp.

COMFORT STRESSED SKIN

Sebaceous glands adjacent to each

scalp would be extremely effective. Atriclear from Zuplex is another active

leaving it soothed and smoother to touch. Aside from its remarkable antioxidant

Anasensyl from BASF Care Creations is an

hair follicle are located between the

activity, Atriclear also contains key anti-

innovative active ingredient, which helps

arrector pili muscle and the opening of

fungal and anti-bacterial compounds.

to reinforce the skin’s resistance to daily

the hair canal. Research indicates these

stresses. Daily applications of Anasensyl in

glands increase in size as hair follicles

and Zuplex are available throughout

a skin serum bring comfort and soothing

miniaturise in the later stages of male

southern Africa from Botanichem. •

benefits to men’s skin. It also improves skin’s

pattern baldness. Although the hair

tolerance of shaving and exposure to UV

follicles eventually die, the gland still

radiation.

produces oil. When a man shaves his

Its anti-inflammatory action is helpful

head, the hair follicles are still completely

when it comes to skin conditions such as

functional and the sebaceous glands are

14

| QUARTER 2 2019 | P C Africa

These actives from BASF Care Creations

BASF Care Creations – www.carecreations.basf.com Botanichem – www.botanichem.co.za Zuplex – www.zuplex.co.za


ETHNIC CARE

A natural way to transform hair’s texture Sensient Cosmetic Technologies has just launched Sensistyle Curl Relaxer, a multi-benefit natural hair relaxer technology that is formaldehyde-free. It is developed from a polypeptide of vegetal origin enriched with bio-nutrients and promises a safer route to transform hair’s texture.

S

ensistyle Curl Relaxer combines the

A SEMI-PERMANENT SOLUTION

synergistic effect of an enzymatic

Sensient’s new hair straightening

bromelain and papain complex

technology was developed in

enriched with hydrolysed yeast

Sensient Cosmetic Technologies

proteins. Its safe composition links with

Brazil Hair Care Centre of Excellence

the hair fibre allowing straightening to

with collaborative support from the

occur through the cleavage of preferably

company’s French Hair Colouration

basic amino acid peptide connections.

Centre of Excellence.

This patent pending hair care technology

compatibility with other procedures, such as hair dyes, straightening substances and bleaching. It also avoids colour fading during the transformation procedure. The technology is recommended for rinse off treatments, leave on formulations with protocols for volume control, mild straightening

Sensistyle Curl Relaxer is a semi-

modifies the structure of the fibre,

permanent solution to maintain a

according to the customer’s curl type. It

desired hair shape. Depending on

offers a milder and natural alternative to

the initial hair curvature, it offers

traditional straightening or relaxer systems,

long lasting definition of the strands

while maintaining the integrity of the hair.

and hair fibre alignment for up to

Sensistyle Curl Relaxer leaves hair smooth

21 washes. It also reduces styling

and nourished during the transformation

time when using a flat iron or blow

process. It also helps control frizz.

drier. It has a broad chemical

applications and curl relaxing routines. Sensient has also developed innovative formulations to straighten and colour hair simultaneously, using Sensient Arianor Hair Dyes. •

Sensient Cosmetic Technologies – www.sensient-cosmetics.com

SENSISTYLE® Curl Relaxer 3 in 1 multi-benefit natural hair technology For a Better & Safer Hair Care, Style and Texture Transformation Routine Enzymatic system complex (Bromelain and Papain) enriched with hydrolysed yeast proteins

HAIR STYLE

RELAXING & STRAITHENING LEVEL OBTAINED ACCORDING TO THE CUSTOMERS’ HAIR TYPE

Semi-permanent effect up to 21 washes Compatible with other chemicals

0

TEXTURE TRANSFOR MATION

VOLUME CONTROL

Long lasting shape definition It reduces styling time INCI : Maltodextrin (and) Bromelain (and) Cysteine

SOFTNESS & NOURISHMENT HAIR CARE

Avoids color fading Formaldehyde-Free Safe application

HCl (and) Tetrasodium EDTA (and) Hydrolysed Yeast protein (and) Papain

Regulatory status : Global compliancy

www.sensient-cosmetics.com

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2019 |

15


ETHNIC CARE

It’s time for

African brands to shine The movement to de-racialise and revolutionise hair and beauty notions is giving consumers of all cultural backgrounds the confidence they need to feel beautiful. Yet the industry hasn’t always been this progressive. By Abby Vorster

I

n the ’90s, African women relaxed their hair with little or no

Inclusivity in the beauty industry has quickly gone from

knowledge of the damaging effects. It was largely unheard

an ethical ‘to do’ to a profitable ‘must have’. The drive to

of for mainstream brands to tailor formulations to address

be inclusive also lured formulators back to their labs to

the unique needs of textured hair and dark skin tones. Fast

design tailored Ethnic care formulations.

forward to 2019 and consumers are embracing their kinks, curls and added melanin content. They’ve become educated through

GAME CHANGING VLOGGERS

online content, found likeability among their fellow ‘hair sisters’

Wired.com features an article on the YouTubers who

and lobbied for inclusivity, fuelling one of the biggest social media

changed the landscape for natural hair. One of the most

revolutions of our time.

famous is Whitney White, who told the website she started her YouTube channel in 2009. Although no one was talking about going natural then, she took the plunge to document her natural hair journey. Since launching her channel, she’s amassed more than one million followers and uploaded more than 300 videos about natural black hair, with content ranging from ‘I put sweet potato in my natural hair’ to a styling vlog on ‘the waterfall French twist’. Another vlogger who stands out in the now crowded natural hair care space on social media, is Monica Stevens. Not only is she a natural hair fanatic, she’s also a licensed cosmetologist with a budding salon in New York, USA. Stevens’ online journey kicked off with her posting photos of her gorgeous curls on Instagram, which were quickly picked up by other women and brands. According to mic.com, she officially started her vlog in 2013 and now has over 350 000 subscribers on YouTube.

SEIZE THE OPPORTUNITY The rise of vloggers saw a new hair care market emerging with these and many other women taking to social media to transition their chemically processed hair to natural. While hair care vlogging remains relatively hot in Africa, in the US vlogging content tends to be centred more and more on makeup tutorials. Despite this, the natural hair care movement is here to stay. In Africa, many of the hair care products on the market are imported from India and China, marking no better opportunity for regional brands to capture their share of textured hair care market. There are scalps to soothe; curls to moisturise and nourish; fragile African hair that needs effective protection and there is still a demand for relaxers or straightening treatments that are markedly less damaging. •

16

| QUARTER 2 2019 | P C Africa


ETHNIC CARE

Natural innovations for healthier, glowing skin

Vytrus Biotech, represented throughout sub-Saharan Africa by Savannah Fine Chemicals, is celebrating its 10th anniversary. This award-winning Spanish business specialises in the development and commercialisation of active ingredients produced using plant stem cell technology.

T

This year has been particularly

Award for Sarcoslim Re-Shape PRCF,

metabolism of cells and the reactivation

significant for Vytrus Biotech

launched in 2018. This active introduces

of skin’s mechanical properties. It reduces

(Vytrus). At in-cosmetics Global

the concept of lipo-sculpting and is

cutaneous lipid content, harnessing the extra

2019, the company was awarded

produced from Sarcocapnos crassifolia,

energy to rebuild the skin, keeping each curve

the Gold Innovation Zone Best Active

a plant found south of the Iberian

in place.

Ingredient Award for its new active

Peninsula, close to extinction. Through

ingredient, Olea Vitae PLF. In the same

Vytrus’ sustainable plant biotechnology

competition, it also won the Gold Green

programme, the company has established a conservation project of the plant species in collaboration with the University of Jaen. Sarcoslim Re-Shape PRCF is a metabolome, rich in plant lipid

OLEA VITAEPLF OFFERS A NEW APPROACH TO SKIN TREATMENT, BY RESUSCITATING THE SKIN

management related factors. These include fumaric acid for its skin regeneration and anti-inflammation benefits, and isoquinolinic alkaloids, which provide fat burning signals. The active’s fat burning

The active ingredient offers a synergistic cocktail of isoquinoline alkaloids and fumaric acid to tame curves. Isoquinoline alkaloids enhance of lipolysis and ignite of thermogenesis while fumaric acid has skin regeneration, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and immunomodulation benefits.

activity comes

CELLULAR OIL

from increasing

Vytrus’ newest active, Olea Vitae PLF is a

the energetic

powerful revitaliser of mature skin. It fights energetic ageing with a new mechanism of action – the stimulation of mitochondrial synapses. In an interview with SOFW Journal, Oscar Expósito, co-founder of Vytrus, told the international magazine ‘Olea Vitae PLF offers a new approach to skin treatment, by resuscitating the skin. The cellular oil triggers cellular revival, targeting energetic ageing through an innovative mechanism of action’. It is produced using plant stem cells of Mediterranean wild olive tree sprouts and designed on an exclusive technology which stimulates and concentrates the lipids in the membranes of the plant stem cell. This cellular oil replicates the activity of cellular lipids, protects and optimises the energy of skin cells and increases the production of structural

18

| QUARTER 2 2019 | P C Africa


ETHNIC CARE PLF have a unique lipid composition

(Perfect Touch serum). This serum

that works synergistically, stimulating

has a fluid yet firm, fine and silky

communication between mitochondria,

texture. It transforms and illuminates

resulting in the formation of Mitochondrial

the complexion in a natural way. The

synapses. This ignites the energy and

composition of Perfect Touch protects

vitality levels of epidermal cells. Olea

against imbalances of the microbiota,

Vitae PLF offers a wide use profile for all

giving the skin a healthy appearance,

kinds of treatments, including facial

free of impurities. Quora Noni PRCF is

and body care treatments, hair care

the concentrated metabolome of

and unisex producuts. It is also easy

totipotent cells extracted from the plant,

proteins, to obtain what Vytrus says is

to incorporate into water, ethanol and

an ‘astonishing anti-wrinkle, firming and

Morinda citrifolia, native to Southeast

oil based formulations and is totally

Asia (Indonesia) and Australia. Also

repairing effect’.

suitable for the formulation of natural

known as Noni, the plant is rich in

andecological products. The active is

anti-quorum sensing molecules. It is

NEW ANTI-ACNE MECHANISM OF ACTION OF QUORA NONIPRCF: • Acne prone skin microbiota re-balancing • Dynamic microbiota population control • Active pore size reduction • Guided skin sebum reduction.

The ingredient represents the first generation of biomimetic plant cell membrane lipids, known as phyto lipidic fractions (PLF).

also highly sustainable, due to the Vytrus technology, which ensures minimal wastage of water and arable soil

designed specifically for ‘dermohacking’, to act synergistically against quorum sensing mediated microbial dysbiosis while perfecting the appearance of the

Through a driven

and avoids a negligible

skin. This mechanism of action blocks

cell membrane

carbon footprint.

microbiome communication signals

disruption process, Vytrus has made it possible to identify, produce and release very unique lipid fractions from within plant stem cell membranes, called lipid RAFTs. The

to avoid the formation of biofilms and

DERMOHACKING ACTIVE

the development of virulence, without destroying or threatening the microbiota.•

The company also received a Gold CosmeticsDesign Beauty Industry Award in the category Best Use of an Ingredient

Savannah Fine Chemicals – www.savannah.co.za Vytrus Biotech – www.vytrus.com

(Quora Noni PRCF) in a Finished Product

®

THINK HAIR CARE? THINK KAHLWAX. KahlWax offers a great variety of natural waxes for hair care products such as oils, conditioners or masks. Re-envision your hair care formulations – with solutions and services that meet your requirements exactly and with ingredients that naturally fulfill consumer wishes, such as an impressive combability and manageability. KahlWax. The ingredients for care. WWW.KAHLWAX.COM

info@savannah.co.za | www.savannah.co.za

2018-05 Ad_PC_May_KahlWax.indd 1

16.03.18 09:35

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2019 |

19


A safer way to shape hair ETHNIC CARE

There is a clear movement away from traditional harmful treatments used to straighten African hair. The focus now is on products that aid manageability and maintain and protect natural hair. Jacques Strydom of ChemSystems highlights Glyoxylic Acid as a solution that meets current Ethnic hair care demands.

F

or the past few decades, relaxed African and Brazilian hair was

Table 1: Straightening lotion for tightly coiled hair

FORMULATION GUIDE

perceived beautiful. Consumers

Phase INCI

with textured hair have decided it

A Cetearyl Alcohol 4.0 Emulsifier Behentrimonium Chloride 3.0 Conditioner Butyrospermum Parkii 2.5 Emollient Isopropyl lanolate 0.7 Emollient Phytosterol Behenyl/Octyldodecyl 0.5 Emollient Lauroyl Glutamate B Aqua to Diluent 100 Polyquaternium-68 0.5 Conditioner C Cyclopentasiloxane/Dimethiconol/ 2.5 Shine enhancer Dimethicone Crosspolymer Phenethyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol 0.8 Fragrance, antimicrobial D Bis [Ethyl(Isostearyl Imidazoline)] 0.5 Conditioner Isostearamide Hydrolised Keratin 0.20 Repairing agent Fragrance QS E Glyoxylic Acid 50(H) 20.00 Relaxing agent

is time to embrace their natural beauty, opting for treatments that protect hair and make it more manageable. Commercial relaxers are known to be corrosive to the hair and scalp, causing permanent damage to the hair follicle structure and irritation to the scalp. These products are also recommended for use only in professional salons. Commonly known as Alkaline relaxers, these products cause structural damage because they irreversibly break the disulphide bonds. Their high pH causes

% Function

cuticle erosion, loss of the hydrophobic

keratin treatment. It gained popularity

lipid layer, a rise in plasticity and

for its smoothing efficiency and good

increased porosity.

aesthetic effect on hair. The Brazilian

Consumersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; knowledge of the

gives an enduring straightening action.

damaging effects of relaxers has led to

The treatment consists of a cream

an increased demand for alternative

application followed by mechanical

straightening methods.

action using a hot iron. The most controversial aspect of this treatment

20

| QUARTER 2 2019 | P C Africa

KERATIN TREATMENTS

is the use of formaldehyde levels up to

In the last 20 years, some multistep

12 percent in certain products. This is

methods have been introduced

toxicologically unacceptable, dangerous

based on a combination of chemical,

to users and workers and prohibited

thermal and mechanical straightening

by cosmetic legislation. The Japanese

processes. One of the most discussed

hair straightening treatment is a similar

is the Brazilian hair straightening or

complex method, which works at a


GLYOXYLIC ACID 50H CONCENTRATIONS IN HAIR PRODUCTS:

ETHNIC CARE

which link keratin polypeptide chains,

The product is applied on the hair

forming new cross-links. The carboxylic

using an applicator brush. During

• six to 12 percent in mild hair straightening products to smooth hair, increase shine and manageability of wavy to medium curly hair i.e. Type 2 and 3 (Andre Walker classification) • 12 to 20 percent in high performance hair straightening products for tightly curly and kinky hair resistant to smoothing treatments i.e. Type 3 and 4 • 0.1 to one percent as a pH adjuster to neutralise formulations with high pH.

and aldehyde groups of Glyoxylic Acid

processing, its low viscosity favours

react with the amine and sulphur-

penetration deep into the hair. This

containing groups present in hair keratin,

may take 30 to 60 minutes depending

resulting in the formation of stable bonds.

on the initial curliness and hair type.

Glyoxylic Acid provides a long-lasting

Thereafter, the hair is re-combed, dried

straightening effect and improves

and thoroughly hot ironed to assure the

manageability, tactile feel and

straight configuration. It is then rinsed.

appearance without causing damage

Additional post-treatment conditioning

to the hair and irritation to the scalp.

hair products can be used as a final

This high-performance hair conditioning

step of the process. Table 1 shows a

higher temperature (235 to 250°C).

agent allows for new, efficient and safe

formulation with Glyoxylic Acid. It is a

It makes use of thioglycolate and proteins

hair straightening treatments with a semi-

fluid o/w emulsion for the smoothing

to restructure hair and has the same

permanent relaxing effect on wavy, curly

treatment of curly and kinky hair (types 3

disadvantages of alkaline relaxers.

or kinky hair.

and 4) using a hot plate. It is particularly

SAFER HAIR STRAIGHTENING

THE PRODUCT AND PROCESS

a tightly curled to kinky configuration.

Glyoxylic Acid 50(H) by ChemSystems is

Hair relaxers with Glyoxylic Acid are

It provides an excellent conditioning

an organic acid with hair straightening,

typically formulated as aqueous liquids

effect, increases softness, lustre and

softening and conditioning effects. The

or fluid o/w emulsions with a low acid

manageability. The formulation is also

active ingredient has a small molecular

pH of 1.5 to 2.5. Glyoxylic Acid 50H can

formaldehyde-free and does not contain

size, allowing it to penetrate the cuticle

be easily dissolved in the water phase

alkaline agents. A prolonged semi-

into the cortex and bond to the keratin.

of emulsions and in other aqueous

permanent straightening effect can be

cosmetics. An acidic straightening

seen up to eight to 12 weeks.•

suited to straightening resistant hair with

As opposed to the alkaline treatments, Glyoxylic Acid is capable of acidic

formulation is suggested in combination

cleavage of the weak bonds (salt,

with a pre-treatment alkaline shampoo

hydrogen and Van der Waals bonds),

and a post-treatment hair conditioner.

ChemSystems – Victor.Berowsky@aeciworld.com

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2019 |

21


PHARMA FOCUS: IMPORTS & EXPORTS

Imperial Logistics named among

‘Companies to Inspire Africa’

The London Stock Exchange Group has recognised Imperial Logistics’ healthcare business in Nigeria, Worldwide Healthcare, as one of the 2019 ‘Companies to Inspire Africa’. This is one of several accolades recently bestowed on Imperial Logistics’ African Regions division.

J

President of the Republic of Kenya, Uhuru Kenyatta presents the award for exemplary tax compliance in 2018 to Martin Mbugua, finance director of Imperial Managed Solutions for East Africa

ohan Truter, CEO of Imperial Logistics’ African Regions division, notes Worldwide Healthcare’s proud position on the London Stock Exchange Group’s Companies to Inspire Africa Report is a tribute to the hard work of the entire Worldwide Healthcare team. ‘Making

it on to this prestigious list of Africa’s most inspirational high growth businesses is a significant accomplishment in the current challenging market conditions. It is the result of stellar efforts of the leadership and all the employees at Worldwide Healthcare.’ This year marked the second edition of the London Stock Exchange Companies to Inspire Africa Report, published in collaboration with PriceWaterhouseCoopers, African Development Bank Group, the UK’s development finance institution CDC Group and research partner, Asoko Insight. ‘We publish this report as it is our belief these firms are crucial to the future of the African economy and capable of driving transformative economic growth in their home countries and beyond,’ explains London Stock Exchange Group CEO, David Schwimmer.

New warehouse opened in Senegal

B

olloré Logistics has inaugurated a new 2 650m2 warehouse at its Potou site in Senegal. The site is strategically located near the port of Dakar and its innovative construction allows for maximum

utilisation of the facility. The building has a self-supporting structure. The shelves act as a framework and support the walls and

DISTRIBUTION EXCELLENCE AND TAX COMPLIANCE

roof. This unique design optimises storage space, as

Other recent accolades garnered by Imperial Logistics’ African Regions

there are no interior poles and the structure itself is used

division include a Distributor of the Year Award for Surgipharm, its

as storage space. Compared to a standard warehouse,

pharmaceutical distribution business in Kenya.

its capacity of 3 700 pallets is maximised due to the

Truter comments: ‘Surgipharm has been named Distributor of the Year

construction. In addition, the insulated walls made of

in Anglophone Africa by the global health and hygiene company, Essity.’

sandwich panels provide good temperature control for

In East Africa, the Kenya Revenue Authority presented Imperial Logistics’

temperature sensitive goods.

Managed Solutions business with a top taxpayer’s award. ‘This annual award recognises businesses for exemplary tax

IMPROVEMENT IN THE REGION

compliance. We were very honoured to have the trophy presented by

Equipped with platform levellers, automatic doors,

the President of the Republic of Kenya, His Excellency Honourable Uhuru

washable floor paint and automatic smoke extraction

Kenyatta, to Imperial Managed Solutions’ East Africa finance director,

doors, the warehouse is a prominent feature on the

Martin Mbugua,’ he says. GlaxoSmithKline (GSK) recently named Imperial

Senegalese landscape. Design and construction work,

Logistics group company, CIC Namibia Agent of the Year at its annual

which lasted just over a year, was carried out by a

conference. ‘This award was presented to CIC Namibia in recognition

Senegalese company.

of the remarkable performance of its Supra Sales division. The division

Innovative and practical, this new warehouse is a real

grew GSK’s business in Namibia by 34.4 percent despite the prolonged

showcase for Bolloré Logistics in Senegal, where the

recession in the country,’ Truter reveals. CIC Namibia provides GSK with

company is improving its service offering and helping to

marketing, sales and merchandising solutions for all of the company’s oral

develop the country’s infrastructure. •

care and OTC pharma brands. •

Imperial Logistics – www.imperiallogistics.com CIC Namibia – www.cic.com.na Surgipharm – www.surgipharm.co.ug

22

| QUARTER 2 2019 | P C Africa

Bolloré Logistics – www.bollore-logistics.com


INSPECTION, CODING & MARKING

Get high quality codes for less

CIJ printing on a pharmaceutical product

Streamline 5 – a small character coder – and the hi-resolution printing system, CoPilot 382, are the newest additions to Squid Ink’s growing family of CIJ printing, marking and coding systems.

situation with the printer manufacturer. As a proven ink manufacturer, Squid Ink offers a comprehensive range of inks for a variety of applications and industry requirements.

APPLICATION VERSATILITY Squid Ink’s CoPilot 382 printing system is designed to print superior quality hi-resolution characters on porous and non-porous surfaces. With up to 2.1 Coding on an FMCG product makes the product traceable throughout the supply chain

inches of print height per printhead and the ability to run up to two printheads from one controller, the CoPilot 382 offers

T

a versatile, yet cost effective solution for he new Squid Streamline 5 CIJ

allows quick and easy automatic

printing system is designed

start-up and shut down. A simple press

to print small, superior quality

of a button commands the printer to

or solvent-based inks to print up to 4.2

characters on a variety of

coding and marking applications. The system is capable of running oil-

go through a start-up cycle or to flush

inches (2.1 inches from a single head) of

substrates, including porous, non-

the system for shutdown. When routine

hi-resolution characters, razor sharp text,

porous, smooth, textured, curved and

maintenance is required, components

scannable bar codes, and great looking

concave. Printing up to five lines of

can be swapped out within minutes,

logos at 185dpi.

text, the Streamline 5 offers a reliable,

eliminating the need to purchase

yet cost effective solution for virtually

expensive filter and pump assemblies

have the option of using Squid Ink’s

any small character primary package

or schedule costly service calls.

solvent-based inks for printing on a

coding application. Unlike any other CIJ

Changing fluids in the Streamline 5 is a

variety of products like coated cartons,

printer on the market, it does not require

simple, fast and clean process. Clean

plastics, glass, stretch wrap and metals.

a built-in display screen. The Streamline

cartridges of ink and makeup can be

Squid Ink’s PZ-1000 ink for porous

5 operates with a wireless or wired

replaced in seconds

touchscreen tablet running Squid

without having to

Ink’s powerful Orion software, allowing the user the option of controlling the printer on the production floor, or

stop production. In addition, chips or RFID tags are not used to lock

For non-porous applications, users

substrates offers low-maintenance performance, eliminating the need for auto-priming functions and offering better ink utilisation than competitive systems. With the CoPilot 382, users can meet GS1 barcode specifications for less.

networking multiple

users into a

Any way you look at it, Squid Ink’s CoPilot

systems from a

fluids hostage

382 provides users with an affordable

central location.

solution to meet their ink jet coding needs. The Streamline 5 and CoPilot

MAXIMUM EFFICIENCY

382 are available now through Squid Ink’s worldwide network of authorised

Its self-cleaning

distributors. Goldpack, based in South

printhead

Africa, services the sub-Saharan African

with CleanJet

region on behalf of Squid Ink. •

maintenance routine

Goldpack – www.goldpack.co.za The new Squid Streamline 5 CIJ printing system

24

| QUARTER 2 2019 | P C Africa


INSPECTION, CODING & MARKING

Keep consumers safe with effective inspection

Quality inspection is critical on all manufacturing and packaging lines. Being able to catch a defective product before its distributed presents significant savings. It also prevents expensive product recalls, wasted production and potentially expensive legal costs.

I

For inspection and quality control,

of the product, perhaps to check for

making clear marking a top priority

Omron’s very compact visual inspection

imperfections, or to check labels for

for all types of FMCG products,

units monitor production in real time

misprints or missing information. Powerful

including pharmaceuticals. As

and respond instantly to any defect.

processing then analyses this data to

production lines become increasingly

Data sent from the vision system is

monitor the process, comparing actual

automated, inspection and

processed and sent via the cloud for

results with expected results. The more

quality control also need to be

powerful analysis, allowing the system

data available, the smarter the machine

more automated.

to take appropriate actions. The system

will be in helping keep manufacturing lines

is totally interlinked, with the improved

running longer, with less downtime and

a line’s effectiveness, by performing

connection between machines in a

higher productivity. All data is logged by

tasks quickly and accurately. Yet the

manufacturing line delivering more

the system and is typically stored in the

real benefits only truly materialise when

accurate quality control and higher

cloud. This also helps meet regulations

‘smart’ automation is implemented,

efficiency. If any error is detected, the

as operations can be later reviewed for

utilising such features as smart data.

system may compensate automatically,

auditing purposes.

When this is applied to vision inspection

allowing production to continue

systems, defects can be spotted and

unaffected. Although Omron’s smart

control, safety, and robotics in a single

dealt with swiftly with minimal impact

automation solutions are fast and have

management system, such as Omron’s

on a line. A smart vision inspection

immense processing power, they are

Sysmac Studio, production lines can readily

system can make any production line

easy to use. This combination of speed,

accommodate short production runs and

more efficient and less wasteful.

intelligence and user-friendliness

adapt to market demands. Line setups can

delivers the most effective inspection

be changed quickly for new production

and transparent quality control.

runs and the recognition pattern for quality

ncreasingly strict legislation is

Automated systems can improve

QUALITY CONTROL IS KEY

By combining vision, motion,

inspection can be updated easily in the

Omron systems cover all parts of the production line, including quality

FOLLOW THE RULES

software. This ensures different variants or

inspection. Whether providing a

For an inspection system to be able

even different products are produced and

complete system solution or a partial

to make smart decisions, it needs

packaged correctly. •

upgrade to an existing system, each

to collect data from a sensor, such

component is geared towards ensuring

as a vision camera. These can be

the highest quality control.

set up to monitor different aspects

Omron – www.industrial.omron.co.za

Superior image sensing speed and precision FH Series

• High-precision object detection • Ultra-high-speed searching • Flexible functionalities to provide high compatibility with manufacturing machines

Would you like to know more? +27 (0)11 579 2600 info.sa@eu.omron.com industrial.omron.co.za fh_series_177x65_ad_enza_01.indd 1

11-06-18 09:42

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2019 |

25


BEAUTY INNOVATIONS

Natural, sustainable oils

for beauty care

Africa is home to some of the most impressive trees of life, revered worldwide for their medicinal and beneficial values. Symrise’s collection of miracle oils extracted from the seeds of three African tree species, deliver truly unique personal care benefits. The cultivation of these trees is also critical to improving social and economic conditions.

S

ymrise developed a sustainability programme in

Madagascar 13 years ago, involving over 7 000 farmers across 90 villages. This initiative,

DID YOU KNOW?

distribution of seeds and plants for new crops.

66 percent of global consumers perceive oils as a good ingredient for personal care products. Source: Symrise 2018 CICS Study of 22 countries

originally centred on vanilla production, has expanded to the cultivation and production of botanicals plants. It sees farmers benefit from training on cultivation and the

SENSORIAL CHARACTERISTICS OF SYMRISE’S AFRICAN OILS

As part of the programme, 2 500 tamanu plants were distributed in 2015 and planted. Tamanu cultivation of the is nondestructive and helps limit

the coast erosion by stabilising the soils. It provides a naturel barrier against strong winds in this cyclonic area. Up to 300 families are involved in the tamanu oil production chain. The sourcing initiative now extends beyond Madagascar to committed developments in Kenya and Tanzania.

Baobab fruit pulp

MIRACLE OILS COLLECTION Symrise’s tamanu oil is cultivated in

who are mostly women, developing

Madagascar. The tamanu nuts are

additional revenues from organic farming.

collected during the dry season, when

The fruit pulp is ground into a fine nutritious

• slips and melts on skin

they fall to the ground. Because the

fruit powder, or cold pressed to produce

• rich and shiny

farmers collecting the nuts are not always

baobab oil while the shell can be used

• spreads well from outset

those who work with the vanilla, the

as biomass for sustainable energy

• film forming

tamanu oil production to many people

production. For its moringa oil, Symrise has

1. TAMANU OIL

in the region. Once shelled,

established a partnership with small scale

2. BAOBAB OIL

the seeds are left to sun dry

farmers which seeks to transfer expertise

• silky

for one to three months. After

to promote better agricultural practices.

they are sun dried, the seeds

The moringa seeds are extracted from

are cold pressed to obtain

distinctive fruit pods in the shape of

the rich green tamanu oil.

drumsticks. The oil is then cold pressed

• cocooning • good sprayability • quite shiny • powdery feel

The company also

3. MORINGA OIL

specialises in sustainable

• rich

baobab oil from Tanzania.

• smooth

This sourcing programme

• film-forming.

involves over 1 000 people,

26

| QUARTER 2 2019 | P C Africa

in Kenya. •

Symrise – www.symrise.com


BEAUTY INNOVATIONS

United in taking South African brands to the world When the founders of emerging brands share the same passion, integrity and determination, a supportive network develops. Mzansi Retail, a small collective of South African cosmetics brands, is now available in Shoprite outlets in Kenya.

M

zansi Retail was developed by

relevant certifications for their products,

manufactured in South Africa and whose

a group of South African SMEs

an export licence and are registered

suppliers are South African.’

that produce cosmetics. They

business holders.

met at BeautyWorld Saudi

Arabia, on a national pavilion funded by the Department of Trade & Industry and

The range of high quality South African manufactured cosmetics products, now available in Shoprite Kenya

Many of these brands are contributing to creating employment and some are even instrumental in the development of new businesses and entrepreneurs. ‘Mzansi Retail has provided opportunities

facilitated by the Cosmetic Export Council

to penetrate international markets through

of South Africa, CECOSA.

a rather unique group using a brilliant

The conception of many of these brands is based on personal experiences. Their

strategy,’ she adds. ‘As a small business

stories and journeys remain close at heart

and small manufacturer with limitations,

for the brand owners, which is evident in

its support has accelerated my growth

their end products.

and development. They have added great knowledge to members who share

The cosmetics industry is a billion dollar

information on reputable suppliers, and

industry. The demand for a cream that will

GOOD DYNAMICS AND A STRONG POTENTIAL

insight into how to deal with foreign issues.

body butter that will ignite endorphins, is massive. South African manufacturers

‘Our recent, successful project saw the

members is heart-warming. Thank you, I feel

are faced with many barriers to meet the

Mzansi Retail brands introduced in a

like we are all walking this journey together

market’s needs. Because there is limited

Duty Free shop in Johannesburg. The

encouraging individuals and business

support from businesses and buyers, small

brands have also been featured in an

owners to succeed. By supporting locally

cosmetics companies find it difficult to

in-flight magazine with a South African

manufactured products, inevitably we are

survive in South Africa. Big retailers support

airline and they have secured orders with

growing our economy and strengthening

international brands, which is a pity and a

Shoprite Kenya,’ says Lorraine Goodman

our currency.’ •

disadvantage to local, high quality brands.

or Lavendarlane. ‘Our ethos is to be an

clear blemishes or a beautifully scented

Mzansi Retail maintains high quality

international trading house firstly for

standards, by only representing brands that

cosmetics and to move into other fields.

have Good Manufacturing Practice, all the

We are strict about working with brands

The support and collaboration from other

CECOSA – www.cecosa.co.za

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2019 |

27


BEAUTY INNOVATIONS

A refreshing innovation for dry shampoos

In the last few years, dry shampoos have seen rapid growth. This is driven by a combination of a demand for convenience combined with an increasing concern about damage from frequent use of regular shampoos. Experts from Ashland explore innovative ingredients to inspire new dry shampoo formulations.

A

ccording to Mintel, the market is currently worth around USD3 billion and is expected to grow by more than six percent CAGR to 2023. While the developed markets in North America and Europe have the highest market

penetration, there is growing interest in marketing these products in Africa where regular shampooing habits are significantly lower due to concern around the fragility of African hair. Many of today’s formulas are designed with older starch-based technologies that leave hair looking lifeless, dull and, in some cases, just as greasy, failing to meet consumers’ expectations. These products are predominantly aerosols and usually contain starch derivatives based on corn or rice in an alcoholic solvent and

DID YOU KNOW?

Pretty much every dry shampoo will take care of a dirty, oily scalp, letting you go a day or two longer without having to wash your hair, but dry shampoos have evolved. The newest formulas also contain styling ingredients that add volume, thickness, and texture. Source: Allure.com

propellant. They are designed to cleanse the sebum and other dirt from hair and are often hydrophobically modified to enhance cleansing. This approach can lead to dull and lifeless hair due to the fine visible residue left behind after use. Manageability, especially styling, is more difficult.

Advantage Revive can be used at less than half the levels of existing starch offerings while delivering improved cleaning. Sorption analysis of synthetic sebum has

UNCONVENTIONAL CHEMISTRY Ashland recently launched Advantage Revive polymer, an alternative chemistry for dry shampoos. Based on a unique polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) chemistry, Advantage revive leaves hair feeling cleaner and looking shinier with enhanced lustre, while matching the appearance of freshly washed hair. This gives consumers next day hair that looks as good as the first day. Developed by hair care scientists in the R&D Centre of Excellence in Bridgewater, New Jersey, USA, aerosol technology experts performed extensive evaluations of the polymer, including visual and analytical measurements of the cleansing ability, remaining residuals on the hair fibre, as well as spray optimisation. The efficient absorption of sebum and resultant removal through brushing or combing is critical for cleaning performance, allowing for low use levels and restoring the natural condition of the hair.

demonstrated the sorptive capacity to be 2.28 g/g (±0.09) versus a hydrophobically modified starch at less than 0.44 g/g (±0.02) – representing an increase of more than five times (see Figure 1).

EFFECTIVE AND SUSTAINABLE Through sebum absorption and low use levels, Advantage Revive helps to return days-old hair to a cleaner and more natural state with less fibre clumping, improved manageability, and increased overall shine and colour perception. Scientists could quantify this performance using an advanced imaging technique known as hyperspectral imaging. Combining photography with spectroscopy, hyperspectral imaging obtains the entire visible spectrum per pixel allowing for improved depth of perception and analysis. By measuring shine, colour and

Table 1: Typical dry shampoo formulation (packaging – valve Lindal 25.25.25.148; actuator: ST 340, 0.030 orifice)

background, Advantage Revive was evaluated against a commercial dry shampoo (see Figure 2).

FORMULATION GUIDE 1

As demonstrated, colour, shine and overall

Trade name

INCI

% w/w

Concentrate

Ethanol (denatured)

SD alcohol 40-b

Advantage Revive

PVP

5.00

Polymer (Ashland)

Glycerin

Glycerine

0.25

Optiphen OD (Ashland)

Caprylyl Glycol

0.25

Propellant

Hydrocarbon a-46

Propane (and) Isobutane

Total

28

| QUARTER 2 2019 | P C Africa

34.50

60.00 100%

hair condition are realised with this polymer. Through optimised particle size, lower use level and solvent interaction, Advantage Revive polymer has more targeted actuation to help improve the overall sustainability footprint of the manufacturer. Formulators can reduce raw materials,


BEAUTY INNOVATIONS improve performance and deliver product more efficiently

Figure 1: Sorptive capacity of Advantage Revive

to the hair while minimising drift and reducing product

g sebum/g

2.5

waste (see Figure 4).

2.0

KEY FACTORS TO CONSIDER Advantage Revive is recommended at use levels of two to When evaluating it against a starch-based formula or replacing this formula, employ ≤ 0.5x starch use level for

1.5 g sebum

six percent; lower amounts can be employed for texture.

1.0

initial assessment and adjust as necessary. It is important to maintain a minimum 1:4 polymer/ solvent ratio for optimum dispersion, or if a higher ratio of solvent is preferred. Broad solvent and propellent compatibility allow for the creation of anhydrous ethanol-

0.5

0.0 advantage revive

modified starch

free sprays, along with mousses and pump sprays. The use of glycols or polyols helps improve overall hair condition and residue. Incorporating water enables the

n=5

Figure 3: Percentage change from an untreated state as a function of red, black and light intensity

further reduction of use level and increased efficacy

% change from untreated state as a function of red, black and light intensity measurements

and although not perceived as ‘dry’, these water-based systems can certainly find broad use in showerless

commercial control

cleansing products.

advantage revive

10 0 -10

has discerned no incompatibility with lined aluminium

-20

and unlined tinplated steel. Inhibitors are required for

-30

water containing systems in unlined tinplated steel.

%

Accelerated studies have demonstrated no clogging with long term studies in progress. Packaging screening

Application work in the R&D centre by expert

-40 -50

formulation scientists in conjunction with the aerosol

-60

expertise resulted in innovative formulations, including

-70

a regular dry shampoo (see Table 1), a hydro-alcoholic

-80

version and a dry shampoo mousse (see Table 2). • Figure 2: Advantage Revive (right) versus a commercial dry shampoo (left)

Table 2: Dry shampoo mousse (packaging – valve: Aptar 2x 20 inverted mousse; spout: Aptar s16)

FORMULATION GUIDE 2

Trade name

INCI

% w/w

Aqua PVP

89.145 2.000

Concentrate Water Advantage Revive Polymer (Ashland) Styleze ES-1 Polymer (Ashland) Carsoquat CT-429 (Lonza) Ritalac (Rita) Ceraphyl 60 ester (Ashland) Glycerin Promidium CO (Croda) Optiphen (Ashland)

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Cetrimonium Chloride Lactic Acid Quaternium-22 Glycerin PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol

0.750

Propellant

Propane (and) Isobutane

6.000

Hydrocarbon a-40

Total

0.250 0.030 0.500 0.500 0.075 0.750

Ashland – www.ashland.com

100%

P C Africa | QUARTER 2 2019 |

29


BEAUTY INNOVATIONS

Clariant delivers aluminium-free

body odour control

CareMag D from Clariant is a distinctive 100 percent natural functional active for deodorants. With this new ingredient, it’s easy to design sustainable, differentiated and effective deodorants, suitable even for sensitive skin.

B

rand owners now have fresh

to long term odour reduction while

support for deodorants with

preventing irritation.

CareMag D from Clariant. This new ingredient embraces the

PROVEN EFFECTIVE

aluminium-free trend and curbs body

In a malodour reduction performance

odour effectively.

assessment on 25 volunteers, a roll-on

CareMag D draws on nature’s Dead

formulated with 20 percent CareMag D

THE BENEFITS OF CAREMAG D: • long lasting body odour reduction • sweat and sebum absorption • dry and velvety feel • supports aluminium-free and anti-stain claims • enables alcohol-free and paraben-free deo formulations.

Sea salts to help brands make a splash

showed significant malodour reduction by

with functional claims for the growing

42 percent in comparison to the untreated

natural personal care segment, which is

axilla (underarm). The measurement

spreading to deodorants.

was taken 24 hours after cleansing and

any stains or residues on the skin and

applying the product. In a consumer test,

clothes. This patented innovation from

demand for safer, natural deodorant

84 percent of volunteers reported the

Clariant successfully holds its own against

products is reflected in the rise

formulation with CareMag D provided

aluminium salts. A direct comparison of

in aluminium-free claims in new

long-lasting protection of 24 hours body

two roll-on formulations containing 15

deodorant launches. Working in

odour control. The product did not leave

percent aluminium salts and 15 percent

According to Clariant, consumer

partnership with ICL-Specialty

CareMag D showed the same malodour

Minerals, the focused and

reduction on both axilla.

innovative speciality chemical company launched CareMag D

NATURAL VERSUS CONVENTIONAL

at in-cosmetics Global.

The functional active is ideal for all deodorant formats, delivering a dry and

ODOUR CONTROL AND SWEAT ABSORPTION Rich in Dead Sea magnesium

velvety feel that helps with designing nonsticky and easy to spread formulations. In addition to its functional claims,

minerals, Clariant’s functional

with CareMag D manufacturers naturally

active is gentle on skin yet highly

infuse deodorants with the recognised

effective in controlling odour

beneficial properties of magnesium,

and delivering sweat absorption.

providing further differentiation to

It has a unique crystalline structure

capture consumers’ interests.

that absorbs excess sweat and sebum, preventing biotransformation of these compounds into malodorous substances. CareMag D also controls the growth

Joao Tavares Correia, head of the EMEA region for Industrial & Consumer Specialties, at Clariant comments: ‘While consumers are often keen to

of skin micro-organisms where excess

switch to safer, natural personal care

sweat and increased body temperature

products, concerns of their efficacy

occur – offering a positive contribution

THE DEMAND FOR NATURAL DEODORANT PRODUCTS IS REFLECTED IN THE RISE IN ALUMINIUMFREE CLAIMS IN NEW DEODORANT LAUNCHES 30

| QUARTER 2 2019 | P C Africa

– when compared to conventional products – is a limiting factor. CareMag D creates new opportunities to overcome this stumbling block in the deodorant category. It replaces the need for aluminium, supporting the design of natural and mild deodorants with pleasant aesthetics and most importantly, which succeed at keeping odour at bay.’ •

Clariant – www.clariant.com


H&R AFRICA

OUR FUTURE: COME WITH US TO THE FUTURE H&R Africa strives to be Africaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leading value-adding supplier of mineral oils, paraffin waxes and petroleum jellies, as well as customer-specific formulations. In addition to the crude oil derived products, H&R Africa also aspires to supply synthetic and bio-based industry raw materialsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; alternatives. H&R Africa aspires to incorporate and operate supply hubs in West Africa, East Africa & Southern Africa, whilst diversifying in sales, markets and production activities down the value chain. In 2019, H&R Africa will join H&R Group in celebrating 100 years of industry shaping German Technology, it is only fitting that H&R Africa take this Technology to Africa and shape the continent for the next 100 years.

113 Trindad Road, Island View, Bluff 4052, South Africa | Tel: +27 (0)31 466 8700 | E-mail: SASales@hur.com

www.hur.com


Profile for New Media B2B

Pharmaceutical & Cosmetic Review Africa Q2 2019