Traverse, Northern Michigan Magazine October 2022

Traverse 10.22

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

Cozy Up: 4 Historic Inns p.22

Unearth the North’s Oldest Headstones p.38

Fighting for Fishtown p.42

CHASING WATERFALLS Take a cascading color tour across the U.P. PAGE 28

OCTOBER 2O22

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Red, Yellow, Orange, Brilliant Blue.

COMING SOON Crisp air, beautiful colors, harvest foods, new wines and the still brilliant blue of Lake Michigan.

SAVE NOW!

To save 10% on your accommodations, call 231.334.5100 and ask for the MyNorth Special. thehomesteadresort.com

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Building and Renovating Northern Michigan’s Finest Residences

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joel@joelpetersonhomes.com • 516 E. Front St., Traverse City • 231.994.2168

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Traverse 10.22 INSIDE

F E AT U R E S

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DISCOVER MORE ABOUT UP NORTH, PEOPLE, PLACES, FOOD AND EVENTS.

STORIED STAYS

These four timeless Northern Michigan inns combine history and hospitality for a cozy fall getaway.

B Y H E AT H E R J O H N S O N D U R O C H E R

28 CHASING WATERFALLS

Six days. Ten falls. Endless photo ops.

This autumn, take a cascading color tour across the U.P. for stunning views without the crowds.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY ALLISON JARRELL

38 OF GRAVE CONCERN

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A Benzie County historian is uncovering the region’s buried history—cleaning one gravestone at a time—and teaching others how they can do the same.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY ALLISON JARRELL

photo by Andy Wakeman

FISHTOWN RISING Saved from recent high-water levels that threatened its very foundation, one of the North’s most iconic tourist attractions is working to help with a save of its own: preserving the state’s fading commercial fishing heritage.

BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS PHOTOS BY ANDY WAKEMAN NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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— Celebrating 66 Years — 1956 - 2022

21 Hull’s of Frankfort

DEPART M E N TS

Open Year Round Family Owned & Operated Since 1956 419 Main Street, Frankfort | 231-352-4642

7 | EDITOR'S NOTE 9 | UP NORTH

hullsoffrankfort.com

Discover Traverse City’s paranormal side by lantern light; enjoy an outdoor movie night in Northport; plus, new businesses Up North.

15 | EVENTS

Always the unique and unexpected since 1986

October is for corn mazes, pumpkin patches, zombie runs and haunted attractions.

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Order one more slice of pie as The Cherry Hut’s centennial comes to a close; plus, pair your Tunnel of Trees drive with a stop at Petoskey Brewing’s new taproom.

19 | UP IN MICHIGAN

54 | LAST CALL

Follow Us On Social Media photo by Todd Parker

112 North Main St., Leland, MI 49654 (231) 256-7747 info@TampicoLelandMi.com FOLLOW US! www.facebook.com/Tampicolelandmi

49 | THE CULINARY NORTH

52 | ON THE TABLE

For local mountain bikers, pre-riding the Iceman course is a rite of passage.

We also BUY your old, unwanted silver jewelry!

These off-the-beaten-path hikes will take you away from the crowds and into fall color bliss.

17 | TRAVEL

To satisfy early fall color cravings, head to Cadillac, where leaves often change days, even weeks, sooner than shoreline areas.

OLD ESTATE & PAWN NATIVE JEWELRY

21 | OUTDOORS

In this autumn pasty, the humble rutabaga (and just about every other root vegetable you can think of ) takes center stage.

This season, we’re obsessed with a centuries-old sipper.

56 | LOVE OF THE LAND

Lose yourself in a mosaic of warm hues at Hartwick Pines State Park.

facebook.com/mynorthmedia instagram.com/mynorthmedia pinterest.com/mynorthmedia

ON THE COVER Wagner Falls, Munising Township PHOTO BY ALLISON JARRELL

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Traverse NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

A MyNorth Media Publication

Vol. 42 | No. 05

PRESIDENT

Michael Wnek Cara McDonald

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Allison Jarrell

SENIOR EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL CONTENT & SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGIST

Rachel Soulliere Stacey Brugeman

CULINARY COLUMNIST

PROOFREADERS

Elizabeth Aseritis Caroline Dahlquist

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

Andrew VanDrie Kandace Chapple Kim Schneider Heather Durocher

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Tim Hussey Theresa Burau-Baehr

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

Rachel Watson Caitlin Conway

DIGITAL PRODUCTION COORDINATOR

Julie Parker Erin VanFossen Mike Alfaro Ann Gatrell Keith Hoxie Julie James Meg Lau Kirk Small

DIRECTOR OF SALES SALES COORDINATOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

MARKETING DIRECTOR MARKETING COORDINATOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Casual or Sophisticated

Erin Lutke Ashlyn Korienek Nichole Earle Libby Stallman

OFFICE MANAGER

Available at EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICES

415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391 SUBSCRIBER SERVICES

Visit MyNorth.com/Account to renew your subscription, change your address, or review your account.

Please email other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800-678-3416 between 8:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. EST.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly by Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan, 1 Broadcast Way, Cadillac, MI 49601.

Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $29.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $6.50.

Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2022, Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan.

Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

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NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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editor's note

DON’T GO CHASING WATERFALLS

by CARA MCDONALD

photo by Allison Jarrell

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he frenzy of summer— and September’s subsequent “secret summer,” where we take one last moment to seize the last of the warm water and sunshine—is in the books.

The frantic pace of festivals, events, flipping the guest room, whipping up a dish to pass, managing the calendar … it’s done, now.

It’s been a particularly frenzied summer for me personally, as I’ve moved with my family to our new home in an old bungalow in Traverse City. The sifting, sorting and reckoning that a move requires hits you squarely between the eyes. There’s the extraction, of course, from the old home—another life, a world of memories playing out like movies in every corner of the house you leave. And then the plunging in to the new. It’s a suck and pull like the surge of waves on a beach. It leaves you feeling skittish, vulnerable and tired.

Not just from the logistics, like scrubbing floors and cupboards, unspooling layers of packing paper, recycling boxes, connecting smoke detectors, waiting for the cable tech, switching utilities, enrolling in schools, finding the dog when she wanders out of her new yard, resuscitating the lawn and endless trips to the store for things like mops and brooms and garden hose and paper-towel holders and bath mats and toilet brushes.

But you get tired from the emotions, too. Not unlike the nearly manic happiness of summer, the feeling of settling into something new and wonderful tempts us to go full-tilt boogie in order to tap every ounce of pleasure and possibility. That’s how I spent the first month and a half in our new home; by September our floors were crunchy with sand, the car permanently packed with beach gear, the freezer full of blueberries and the dog walked to exhaustion as we wrung every last bit of enjoyment out of our first few weeks in our new digs. It was enough to provoke a bit of a joy hangover.

Then October slips in to remind us that there’s an ebb to the flow. This hit me when, in the midst of summer’s encore

performance, Allison Jarrell’s story crossed my desk. Reading about her six-day journey through the U.P. in search of landmark waterfalls was like exhaling. Even though we stole the headline idea from the ’90s TLC lyric about “chasing” waterfalls, it’s not about bucket-listing or ticking off to-dos or getting the perfect photo, but rather wideeyed savoring and quiet appreciation. Seeing the natural world through her writer/photographer eyes is to revel in singular beautiful moments and embrace the peace and perfection of each discovery, whether it’s drenched in sunshine or cloaked in mist and overcast skies.

Water on rock is patient, companionable, persistent and slowly works its magic—much like Allison’s story, and the descent of autumn upon us. A time to reconsider and be wide open not just to life’s destination highlights, but the joy in every aspect of the journey.

Cara McDonald Executive Editor cara@mynorth.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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YOU’RE INVITED

Named “Most Beautiful Place in America” by the viewers of Good Morning America, and sitting pretty on National Geographic’s list of “21 Best Beaches in the World.”

There are plenty of places to vacation, but nowhere comes close to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.

You don’t have to take our word for it though.

Come experience the magic of Northern Michigan for yourself.

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Up North.

PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES

BOO!-EAUTIFUL TRAVERSE CITY photo by Allison Jarrell

by KANDACE CHAPPLE

Discover TC’s paranormal side with Haunted Traverse.

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etrayals, catastrophic fires, desecrated native American burial grounds—there’s more than a little bit of historic cause for restless spiritual energy in Traverse City. And with a lineage of spiritually gifted ancestors and a lifetime of ghost sightings of her own, Desirae Dine is the perfect guide to our otherworldly phenomenon. She owns Haunted Traverse, a tour company that takes guests on a jaunt through the creepier side of Northern Michigan. We asked Dine and her team about the best, and scariest, parts of the job.

KC: What are some other things guests have experienced?

DD: We always seem to catch really neat EVPs (electronic voice phenomena) at the site of Traverse City’s first cemetery on Sixth Street.

We’ve also personally had a sighting of a spirit in the basement of the State Theatre.

KC: What’s the most haunted place in TC in your opinion?

DD: The Front Street Hotel, which once stood at the southwest corner of Park and Front, has an interesting past. Early one morning in 1896, our fire chief at the time, Chief Dupree, was sitting outside the Cass

photo courtesy of Haunted Traverse

Kandace Chapple: Tell us about a ghost encounter that chilled you to the bone.

Desirae Dine: Out at the Ghost Farm of Kingsley, there was the spirit of a woman. During one of our haunted walk nights in October, this woman presented herself to a participant, causing her to press her back against a tree. I got out my camera and started snapping pictures. In the middle of one of the photos, you can see a woman’s face smiling. I get chills whenever I see it.

Above: A Haunted Traverse lantern tour group heads to a haunted hot spot near Hannah Park.

Below: Desirae Dine shares her own ghostly experiences during her tours.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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GIFT SET

Choose from this and many other delicious gift sets for your corporate gifting this year.

Spend $500+ and enjoy exclusive discounts.

The Picual Family Reserve Gift Set is hand selected by Fustini’s from the Aguilar orchard and mill.

Our balanced, medium-robust Picual SELECT extra virgin olive oil gift set brings spicy herbal flavors of green banana, mint, and black pepper.

Street fire station when he noticed a glow in the distance. The whole fire house was roused and the water wagon, The Queen City Broiler, was hitched. But, by the time they arrived, the hotel was already lost. Today, some people on the upper floors of the building that’s now there, report smelling smoke or being startled by paws on the hard floor followed by a flurry of frantic barking, only to turn and find nothing behind them. You see, there were two souls lost the evening of the fire. One, Ed Newberry, a Swedish porter, passed from smoke inhalation. The other, found at the foot of his bed, his dog.

KC: You have a family history of spiritual giftedness; fill us in.

DD: My great-grandmother, AddieBell, was a witch. She was a midwife who came from the foothills of Kentucky; a small woman, under five feet tall, with long hair and healing hands.

Our mother would tell us about a game she would play—she would ask AddieBell: “Make it knock, Grammy!” and Addie-Bell would make things knock all over the house. She could mix something to cure a headache, soothe your stomach or help you get rid of a pesky boyfriend, if need be.

KC: Tell us about your different tours.

DD: We offer a Historical Ghost Lantern Tour, a Ghost Hunting Experience and a Weird 101 Walking Tour.

The Ghost Farm of Kingsley begins the first weekend of October and runs every Friday and Saturday evening all month long. We love changing what we do every year so that it is fresh, fun and terrifying. We also use this as a fundraising opportunity for local groups, including 4H members and Boy Scouts.

For tour information, visit hauntedtraverse.com.

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141 E FRONT ST • TRAVERSE CITY • 231-944-1145 PETOSKEY • ANN ARBOR • HOLLAND

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Kandace Chapple is a freelance writer and owns Michigan Girl, a company that hosts outdoor events and trips for women in the Grand Traverse region. mi-girl.com

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Up North Kids & Family

SERVING UP FAMILY FUN

photos by Dave Weidner

Around the Corner Food & Fun in Northport is way more than a restaurant. The Waukazoo Street eatery is a destination for kids and kids at heart, offering craft and science kits, scavenger hunts, outdoor games and a living fence mural—you purchase the experience; they provide spray paint, safety goggles and a template if you want one. There are also free outdoor movie nights (seasonal thru October) complete with cotton candy and popcorn. This month’s movie lineup: Oct. 1 “E.T.”; Oct. 8 “Mars Attacks”; Oct. 15 “Interview with the Vampire”; Oct. 22 “Ghostbusters: Afterlife”; Oct. 29 “Hocus Pocus.” 115 S. Waukazoo St., Northport, aroundthecornerfood.com -C.S.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Up North Biz News

The Alluvion, inside Commongrounds, overlooks Boardman River

Cool finds, community updates and sweet new businesses.

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Freshly roasted coffee in the heart of Cheboygan, featuring blends and single roasts from around the world.

Light breakfast, lunch and baked goods, all homemade and ready for people on the go. cheboygancoffee.com LUDINGTON MEAT COMPANY 3815 US-10, LUDINGTON

A 14,600-square-foot hub operated by brothers Alec and Corey Sanders opened its doors this summer offering a meat market, butcher block, deli and smokehouse, plus an in-store taproom and grill for on-site dining. A venison processing center will also be available. ludingtonmeatco.com STOCKED TRAVERSE CITY–BASED DELIVERY SERVICE

photo courtesy of MEDC

Going camping, renting a vacation home, docking at a marina for the night? Stocked will bring you groceries. Order everything from candles to charcuterie boards and baked goods; no membership needed. The business, founded in and focused on Northwest Michigan, launched about a year ago and is partnered with major retailers like Meijer and Costco along with local specialty shops. stocked-up.com

Know of a business that just opened or have a fun community update? Let us know at editorial@traversemagazine.com.

The possibilities are endless at The Alluvion, a 4,000-square-foot arts venue opening soon inside the Commongrounds Cooperative building in Traverse City.

Imagine parents dropping off their littles downstairs at Northern Blooms Montessori, then coming upstairs to The Alluvion for a session of morning yoga before grabbing coffee at Higher Grounds. May Erlewine’s Music for Sprouts class has the space next, where kids can learn how to strum ukuleles. After lunch, an artist comes in for rehearsal, an area nonprofit hosts a happy hour at The Alluvion’s bar, and a visiting jazz musician arrives for an evening show in the 150-seat listening room …

“There are a dozen other things we could be doing in that space, too— showing a documentary, hosting a lecture, a filmmaker presenting a series of shorts,” says Brad Kik, co-founder and co-director of Crosshatch Center for Art & Ecology.

Crosshatch is one of three partners, including Commongrounds Cooperative and musician Jeff Haas, operating The Alluvion. The team hopes to get occupancy this November and start programming in January 2023. In addition to ticketed events, there will be a variety of free opportunities open to the public—art exhibitions and installations, a monthly open stage featuring emerging artists, educational workshops.

The million-dollar project has seen incredible local support. “Since 2021, the community has shown up in a big way, starting with Impact 100 awarding us their first-ever grant in the arts category for $110,000,” says curator and designer Jessica Kooiman Parker, who is creating a contemporary visual arts program at Commongrounds. Rotary Charities and Michigan Economic Development Corporation both contributed $50,000, and Green Brick Foundation donated $15,000. A recent Patronicity Campaign raised another $65,000 in donations from the community.

“We’re filled with gratitude, and so ready to bring this space to the public,” Kooiman Parker says. “We want to hear from all sorts of folks about how they might use it: theater companies, choirs, storytelling groups, dance, music, education, film—as well as organizations or individuals doing work in food, families and health. This space will work best when it works for all of us.” thealluvion.org –C.S. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Come explore what Northern Michigan creativity is all about.

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TIX Watch for the MyNorthTix symbol and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

photo by Dave Weidner

October edited b y LIBBY STALLMAN

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The second annual Northport Tea Dance starring drag queen Kim Chi and DJ Jace is presented by the Michael Chetcuti Foundation at Northport Pub & Grille. MyNorthTickets.com

MON Frankfort Beer Week celebrates Michigan craft beer and the incredible food scene in the charming coastal city through Oct. 8. frankfortbeerweek.com

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Avoid hordes of zombies while traversing the post-apocalyptic streets of Grayling. Whether you’re an avid runner or would rather walk the route, this zombie run promises to get your heart pounding. Proceeds benefit River House. grayling-mi.com Giant pumpkins, squash and watermelon weigh-in at the Frankfort Fall Festival (kids ages 5–15 can guess the weight of a giant pumpkin for an opportunity to win a new bike). Enjoy food, crafts, games, entertainment and a parade. frankfort-elberta.com

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The band Crosscut Kings blends old-school acoustic blues, roots renditions of modern songs, as well as their own original songs. Catch this vibrant addition to the live music scene at the Cadillac Elks Lodge.

MyNorthTickets.com Snag great shopping deals in downtown Leland and in Fishtown.

Bargains galore at Leland’s Fall Frenzy event. lelandmi.org Experience fall on Mackinac Island and all the ghoulish excitement Grand Hotel offers the whole family. Scary movies, a haunted afternoon tea and Hotel Ball & Costume Contest round out the holiday weekend.

Oct. 28–30. grandhotel.com

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The Northern Home & Cottage Virtual Home Tour is back. Explore eight of Northern Michigan’s most stunning homes through video documentaries. This donation-only event benefits Child & Family Services of Northwestern Michigan.

MyNorthTickets.com

SAT

The Traverse City Zombie Run is a Halloween tradition.

Over the years we’ve seen zombies from all walks of life, or should we say, death. Who (or what) will show up this year?

Right Brain Brewery hosts this frightening event. tczombierun.com

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FIND MORE AT MYNORTH.COM > EVENTS

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Petoskey and Trav www

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Lake City

CHROMATIC CADILLAC

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Downtown Cadillac

Carl T. Johnson Hunting and Fishing Center

McBain

by CARLY SIMPSON

To satisfy your early fall color cravings, head to Cadillac, where leaves often change days, even weeks, sooner than shoreline areas.

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inset photo by Dave Weidner

f you want to know when peak color will hit, Tom O’Hare, chief meteorologist at 9&10 News, is the guy to ask. Each week throughout October, he shares the latest fall forecast with a handy map and tips for scenic drives.

Inland towns such as Cadillac see autumn’s vibrant hues much sooner than shoreline cities like Traverse City and Petoskey, thanks to higher elevations and cooler temps.

“Inland spots can be past peak while lakeside areas are still fifty percent changed,” O’Hare explains.

“The warmth of Lake Michigan keeps the trees greener just a little longer.”

Cadillac Winery

131

Start Here

115

LeRoy

Stay on M-115 for about 10 minutes until you reach 45 Mile Road.

Turn right on 45 Mile, going north. Take your time soaking up the color along this country road lined with sweeping hills and farmland.

Follow 45 Mile until you reach North Mitchell Street in Cadillac. (Note: 45 Mile turns into Paluster Street before intersecting with Mitchell Street.) Stop for Here, O’Hare maps out a Cadillac area lunch in downtown Cadillac—see inset fall color tour perfect for a late September for our favorites. or early October day trip: After lunch, head west along Granite Street/Sunnyside Drive back to M-115. ^ Approximate Drive Time: Make a right.

1 hour, 25 minutes Now, it’s time for a walk. Park at the Where to Grab a Carl T. Johnson Hunting and Fishing Bite in Cadillac Head south on US-131. Take exit 162 Center. Cross the street to stroll the canal to 14 Mile Road. Make a left and continue connecting lakes Cadillac and Mitchell, Lakeside Charlies: hot buffalo wings straight until you hit Mackinaw Trail (less or walk the Center’s 2.5-mile Heritage than a mile).

Nature Trail. The crushed limestone path The Timbers: Turn left on Mackinaw Trail, going with bridges and boardwalks is an easy bourbon salmon north toward LeRoy. hike around wetland areas. An elevated Clam Lake Beer Co.: Make a pit stop at Cadillac Winery on observation platform and small fishing perch and chips Rose Lake Road (also called 18 Mile pier offer views of the beautiful marsh.

Road). The raspberry dessert wine earned a Back on M-115, drive northwest toDockside Inn Restaurant: lasagna gold medal at the 2022 Finger Lakes Inward Mesick. About 10 miles down the ternational Wine and Spirits Competition, road, make a right on South 29 Road. and the Itasca and Frontenac Gris Blush After about 1 mile, you’ll reach a vista both took home bronzes. of rolling hills that always “pop” every fall.

Back on Mackinaw Trail, continue north for 2 miles Stay on South 29 until you reach 16 Mile Road (once until you reach 20 Mile Road (also called Marion Road). called M-42). Turn right on 16 Mile toward Manton.

Turn right on 20 Mile, heading east.

Make a right at the light in Manton and head south on Here, you are near the highest point of the Lower Penold US-131, which will take you back to Cadillac. insula. The color pops early in this area with a lot of maple Bonus Content on MyNorth.com and oak groves. After about 15 minutes (10 miles) you’ll View Tom O’Hare’s weekly fall color predictions: link.mynorth.com/fallcolormap22 reach M-115. Turn left, driving northwest toward Cadillac.

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up in michigan

The author, Kandace Chapple, with her husband, Tim, after a successful Iceman—no doubt thanks to her cagey pre-race prep.

OUT AND BACK

by KANDACE CHAPPLE

For local bikers, pre-riding the Iceman course is a fall rite of passage.

photo courtesy of Kandace Chapple

Y

ou’ve probably heard of the iceman Cometh Challenge—Northern Michigan’s biggest mountain bike race, running 30 miles through the Pere Marquette Forest from Kalkaska to Traverse City.

But have you heard of Iceman’s sidekick—the “Out and Back”?

The Iceman race has been held on the first Saturday in November for more than 30 years, with 5,000 riders participating. And “Out and Back” (OnB) rides have become a rite of passage, so to speak, for Iceman fans.

OnBs are just what they sound like—cyclists park at Timber Ridge Resort in Traverse City (the Iceman finish line location), ride “out” to the Kalkaska start line location via a few shortcuts, then ride “back” on the official Iceman route. The roundtrip is about 43 to 47 miles and takes three to five hours. And, sometimes, part of your soul.

An OnB is nothing to the big-time riders, but for rec riders who just want to get out and look at the trail, it can be daunting. The experience is something to remember—you’re out in the woods with your buddies, mile after mile, with no race day pressure and plenty of time to get lost and found again—both physically and mentally. What could be better than that?

For some, OnBs are all they do; they aren’t even signed up for the Iceman. For others, OnB rides are a chance to test fuel (how much food and drink you’ll need on race day) and equipment (how you’ll stay warm and dry or cool—the day could be 60 degrees with sun or 30 degrees with snow, sometimes both). For new riders, it’s a chance to go out to see the course for the first time as they prep.

“Out” Riders park at Timber Ridge Resort in Traverse City (where the race will end, complete with Short’s beer tents and an ice trophy) and head out for 17 miles, most of which is on a straight, flat, dirt road. The “out” takes one to two hours.

The first thing you’ll find out is how serious your friends were about “taking it easy.” Every time I’ve done an OnB, it’s been a drag race to Kalkaska. Everyone is high on the adventure and fueled for a race—with no race to be had.

The result is a lot of pent-up energy riding through a flowing tunnel of trees, side-by-side with your pals. It’s hard not to push the pace under these conditions. But my advice at this point is to take it easy. Sandbag, as they say. Save your energy for the real ride back.

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“…and Back” Once you reach Kalkaska, it’s time to turn around and ride the actual Iceman course back. The pace is more moderate now because the idea is to check out the course, argue about which way to go, and talk about how you swear you saw a bear back there.

The Iceman course itself is a series of single-track, two-tracks and barely-there-tracks stitched together through the Pere Marquette Forest.

The elevation gain over the course of the race is around 1,200 feet or so, with most of the hills coming in the last eight miles. The total mileage of the race varies from 26 to 30 miles, as it’s tradition to change up the route a little every year, leaving riders in the dark on the exact course until the last few days before the race.

The “back” will take three to four hours. For a truly enjoyable OnB, count on adding at least another hour to your usual pace. Save racing for race day, and use OnBs for the best part of riding with friends: posturing and trash talk.

The real joy of an OnB has nothing to do with the race. Rather, it’s riding with fellow bikers in the woods when the trees are positively awash with fall color. You can take all the breaks you want, ride through mud puddles and blast your cohorts with rainwater. And you’ll meet other riders out there doing the same thing. It’s a party on wheels.

After probably getting lost at least once, you’ll make it back to TC— muddy, sore, spent and on an absolute high. Surviving an OnB means you’re ready for race day (maybe!) and you’re probably starving (you now have a fullon excuse to hit Peegeo’s for a pizza).

If you’d like to ride an OnB, watch the Iceman Facebook page, as well as the kolo t.c. cycling club, in October.

Even if you’re not racing, it’s a perfect autumn adventure—saddle up with some other riders and make your way out and back together in the gorgeous fall woods of Northern Michigan.

Watch the Iceman Cometh Challenge streaming on MISportsNow.com and on channels 9&10 or the free VUit app.

Kandace Chapple is a freelance writer and owns Michigan Girl, a company that hosts outdoor events and trips for women in the Grand Traverse region. mi-girl.com

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outdoors Boyd B. Banwell Nature Preserve

Maplehurst and through 150 acres of forested bluffs and open meadows surrounding the lake. Plus, the preserve’s position on high ground offers stunning views of Torch Lake, Elk Lake and Grand Traverse Bay. 4.BIG LAKE PRESERVE, GAYLORD

1. WALDECK ISLAND NATURE PRESERVE, CADILLAC

This 11-acre Cadillac Area Land Conservancy preserve on Stone Ledge Lake offers a 1.2-mile loop trail through quiet woods and diverse swampland—perfect for a quick, accessible family hike. Walking the trail, exploring the shoreline and visiting the viewing platform typically takes about an hour (maybe longer if you’re peeping the vibrant color displays). Located off M-115, this nature preserve is a widely unknown hidden gem and one of the most scenic trails in the Cadillac area.

A favorite of HeadWaters Land Conservancy, Big Lake Preserve in Otsego County is home to hardwoods that glow in autumn. The hike here isn’t long—the 8.26-acre preserve is more of a “pack a picnic and do some nature journaling” kind of spot. Big Lake is also great for kayaking: enjoy gorgeous fall color views of the preserve (at the southern tip) and along the entire lake. Public lake access is on Big Lake Road; main entrance on Oley Lake Road.

5. BOYD B. BANWELL NATURE PRESERVE, AFTON

This Little Traverse Conservancy property is another beauty in the fall, and it’s only 10 minutes off I-75 east of Indian River. The 400-acre preserve follows the Pigeon River for nearly three miles and features majestic oak and pine trees along its steep bluffs. Adjacent to the Agnes S. Andreae Nature Preserve, there are more than five miles of trails to

by ALLISON JARRELL explore between the two properties.

Bonus: Crawl inside the wooden Nature Six hikes that will take you Megaphone, lie still and soak in the away from the crowds and amplified sounds of the forest.

OFF THE BEATEN PATH

2. KRUMWIEDE FOREST RESERVE,

photo by Todd Parker

MAPLE CITY

The hardwood canopy at this 110-acre Leelanau Conservancy reserve shines into fall color bliss. with an array of golden hues in the fall—hike through a forest flush with 6. VIELMETTI-PETERS RESERVE, MARQUETTE sugar maples, American beech, hemlock, red oak and colonies of golden aspen. Perched on top of With nearly four miles of trails and some of the best fall a high ridge between two pastoral valleys, the two-mile trail color displays near Marquette, this 123-acre Upper Peninsystem features mild to steep terrain that includes a gradual sula Land Conservancy reserve is not to be missed in late ascent to the ridgeline and a steep descent back to the valley September and early October. A hike through this autumnal floor. As the leaves begin to fall, visitors can catch a glimpse oasis will take you through a variety of terrain and some of Good Harbor Bay. small waterfalls as two creeks make their way to the nearby Dead River. UPLC hosts fall color and mushroom hikes at 3. MAPLEHURST NATURAL AREA, KEWADIN the reserve each year—for up-to-date info, visit their website Hike through stands of hardwood covered in orange and and Facebook page. gold foliage at this 389-acre Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy property—one of the largest remaining Bonus Content on MyNorth.com undeveloped parcels near Torch Lake. More than five miles Find 4 more off-the-beaten-path hikes with gorgeous fall foliage: link.mynorth.com/fallhikes of trails take visitors along the 60-acre spring-fed Lake NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Storied Stays

by HEATHER JOHNSON DUROCHER

These four timeless Northern Michigan inns combine history and hospitality for a cozy fall getaway.

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WHEN FALL COLORS reach their peak and the chill in

the air is enough to warrant a soft sweater and hot drink in hand, it’s time for a weekend escape. Whether you’re seeking a stay in the heart of an Up North town or a secluded spot, these four historic Northern Michigan inns are ideal for autumn. service and extraordinary local ambiance in the 43 modernized rooms. During autumn visits, an in-room gas fireplace keeps you warm after a day exploring—the inn’s sprawling grounds are just one block from Lake Michigan. “We have a private dock ideal for sunsets or stargazing,” adds Sara Little, who oversees marketing for the inn. Amenities include a pool and hot tub and, perhaps most important, fresh-baked cookies daily in the Main House.

When You Go

210 Artesian Ave., Harbor Springs harborsprings.com Clockwise: Colonial Inn’s Main Lobby invites travelers to relax; the dining room has a charming veranda; guests start their day with fresh flowers and complimentary breakfast.

Tucked in the whimsical summer neighborhood of Wequetonsing on Little Traverse Bay, the Colonial Inn has been welcoming guests for 129 years.

The Colonial Inn was founded in 1894 by Colonel Eaton of the Michigan Wolverines Cavalry division. (Rumor has it that his fortune had its origins in the capture of the Confederate President Jefferson Davis.)

After Eaton’s death in 1904, his widow continued the operation of the hotel. In the 1920s, Papa Tam, a German World War I colonel, became the proprietor, and in 1955, Colonial Inn was purchased by then–Ford Motor Company Vice President John R. Davis and Harbor Springs luminary Fred Renker. Renker managed the hotel until 1968 when it was bought

by Ray Brown, a southern transplant from North Carolina. Brown owned and operated the hotel until 1986, when his son, Tim, bought the hotel and began modernizing the property until his death in 2016. His oldest son and namesake now owns and operates the inn.

Expect top-notch hospitality, outstanding

WHILE YOU’RE IN TOWN: For a scenic fall hike, check out the Little Traverse Wheelway, a 26-mile trail that connects the towns of Charlevoix, Petoskey and Harbor Springs. The Harbor Springs trailhead is near the ballfields at Lake and Hoyt on the east side of town, where restrooms and parking are available.

photos by Jacqueline Southby

COLONIAL INN

DINE: From the inn, take a short stroll along the waterfront to the story-book downtown of Harbor Springs —the East Main Street shops’ window boxes are especially beautiful in fall.

You’ll find several restaurants to duck into such as Pierson’s Grille & Spirits (try their goat cheese salad and the whitefish) and One Thirty Eight, a whiskey-forward cocktail lounge.

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Counterclockwise: Three views of the Crow’s Nest lounge, perched on the sixth floor: Cap your night with a cocktail, enjoy fall color before nightfall, or cozy up by the fire; the Landmark is situated downtown, perfect for strolling to dinner (we recommend Steinhaus).

inn’s first floor. At day’s end, the Crow’s Nest, providing craft cocktails and light bites on the building’s sixth floor, offers “the best view in town” overlooking the cobalt blue waters of Lake Superior.

WHILE YOU’RE IN TOWN: Make use of the free downtown shuttle service. For a fab fall hike, Congdon recommends checking out nearby Hogback Mountain (a series of narrow, twisty trails through woodlands, rock fields and swampy areas) or Sugarloaf Mountain (wide, clearly marked single-track trail and multiple staircases).

LANDMARK INN

photos by Allison Jarrell

230 N. Front St., Marquette thelandmarkinn.com From the moment you enter this fullservice boutique hotel in the heart of downtown Marquette, you’ll sense its rich history. “You feel it when you walk in the door,” says General Manager Stefanie Congdon.

Landmark Inn, which welcomed its first guests as the 100-room Northland Hotel in 1930, is just steps from shops, restaurants and theaters and overlooks Lake Superior. The inn’s old-world European splendor and charm blends with modern convenience. The AAA Diamond-rated hotel has been featured in The New York Times and has welcomed an impressive list of famous guests throughout the years. “We hosted Amelia Earhart in 1932—she stayed in room 502 while speaking in town; Abbott and Costello in 1942 when they were in Marquette to perform at the American Legion during World War II and even The Rolling Stones,” Congdon says.

(The Rolling Stones stopped by the inhouse Northland Gastropub for drinks

24

prior to the funeral of their close friend and road manager in 2002.)

Some of the inn’s rooms are named for these luminaries, including the Amelia Earhart room and one for astronaut Dr. Jerry Linenger, who served on the space shuttle Discovery. Additionally, there’s a penthouse suite on the sixth floor with a jacuzzi and full kitchen.

The hotel, which fell into disrepair in the late 1970s and closed in 1982, underwent a major renovation in 1995 and an ownership change in 2015, ushering in a new era of gracious hospitality.

When You Go DINE: Grab lunch at Northland Gastropub, an English-style restaurant on the

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THE LAMPLIGHTER BED & BREAKFAST

photos courtesy of The Lamplighter Bed & Breakfast

602 E. Ludington Ave., Ludington ludington-michigan.com The best historical B&Bs combine a sense of authenticity with a contemporary and welcoming feel, and Lamplighter Bed & Breakfast gets it just right.

Housed in an 1894 Queen Anne Victorian, the inn has a refreshing Lake Michigan feel, with airy rooms, crisp white bedding and a coastal vibe. “We want people to walk in and feel comfortable being barefoot,” says Jen Hinderer, who serves as innkeeper with her husband, Dan. The Hinderers, who spent 15 years pursuing careers in landscape design/ building (Dan) and marketing/business ( Jen), became the inn’s fourth owners in 2017 after quitting their corporate jobs and returning to Michigan with their two young sons. Honoring the Victorian’s long history and maintaining the B&B’s character is important to Jen and Dan. Although they bring a youthful and modern essence to the inn, the couple lovingly restored the original entry and grand wooden staircase to their former glory. Each of the B&B’s five rooms offer en suite bathrooms—relax in the jetted tub in the Ansel Adams Suite or enjoy the large, custom-tiled walk-in shower in the newly remodeled Monet Suite.

Guests are treated to exceptional food in a relaxed atmosphere when staying at the inn. Jen is behind the locally sourced menu (she shares her favorite fall recipe for cranberry orange scones on the B&B’s blog) while Dan’s landscaping talents are evident in the gardens and grounds, including a sweet gazebo where guests enjoy sipping morning coffee or a glass of wine in the evening. On cooler days, start or end your day in front of the parlor’s fireplace.

“We cater to our guests, and we try very hard to be supportive of local businesses,” Jen says. “We offer an experience that is unique—both the food and the setting. We’ve always loved serving people.”

When You Go DINE: For lunch or dinner, check out The Blu Moon, a French/Japanese fusion bistro, sushi and cocktail lounge in Ludington dedicated to using fresh, sustainable ingredients. For local beer, wine and spirits, plus food and live music, head to The Mitten Bar. Top to bottom: Breakfast is served in the dining room, and on warmer days, the patio or deck; The elegant house was built by Dr. George W. Crosby; The Carpenter Room honors the longest-owning innkeepers, Mr. and Mrs. Carpenter.

WHILE YOU’RE IN TOWN: The Lamplighter is just one mile from the beautiful shores and beaches of Lake Michigan in downtown Ludington.

Close by are three lighthouses, the S.S. Badger car ferry to Wisconsin, the Ludington Area Center for the Arts and the Port of Ludington Maritime Museum.

Don’t miss Ludington State Park’s network of hiking trails. For an autumn beach stroll, head to the award-winning public beach at Stearns Park, named one of the Top 51 Great American Beaches by USA Today.

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OLD MISSION INN

photos by Jacqueline Southby

18599 Mission Road, Old Mission Peninsula oldmissioninn.com

For an especially peaceful, grown-up getaway in a scenic spot miles from town, the winding and picturesque roads of Old Mission Peninsula lead visitors to an enchanting discovery: Old Mission Inn. “We’re in a very quiet neighborhood.

It’s a relaxing place to come to,” says owner Angie Jensen, who has operated the inn for 24 years with her husband, Bruce. The two cater to couples and guests looking for a private place for a birthday or anniversary, “who want to read books, lie in the hammocks, look out over the bay and sit on the porch,” Jensen says. “I call it the great adult getaway.”

Built in 1869, Old Mission Inn is the oldest continually operating hotel in Michigan. It has had just four owners in its 153 years of operation. The original owners and builders, George and Betsy Hedden, named the historic hotel Hedden Hall. In its early days, it had 31 rooms—this was well before plumbing and electricity were added. The inn was home to the Old Mission Post office for 20 years, and George Hedden served as postmaster from 1869 to 1889. The Heddens operated the hotel for 33 years, with subsequent owners including Alfred and Ella Porter, whose guest registers were gifted to Angie and Bruce

and feature the signatures of Babe Ruth and Joe Louis from 1936.

Jensen takes her role as caretaker seriously. She’s even writing a book about the inn, dedicated to the second owners’ granddaughter who shared stories and photographs of her time there.

“We got to meet her when she was 82 years old and living in Odessa, Texas,” Jensen says. “She worked at the inn when she was ten and her job was to clean chamber pots and bring in water.

Her grandmother would ring the breakfast bell and guests would come down; I have that bell now,” she adds. The couple has even found old love letters in the inn’s third story. “There’s so much history here, and it deserves to be told.”

When You Go DINE: The inn serves breakfast and, more recently, take-out from its on-site Mission Bay Cafe that provides pizza, sandwiches and other “home-cooked meals that stay with the theme of oldfashioned comfort food.” The Jensens also plan to offer packaged liquor to go.

WHILE YOU’RE IN TOWN: The 18-mile drive to the inn from Traverse City is its own peaceful and scenic activity—with plenty of wineries and views to take in along the way (the closest winery to the inn is 2 Lads). For a gorgeous autumn hike, head to Mission Point Lighthouse and its miles of trails.

Haserot Beach, around the corner, is another popular spot for a stroll. Some visitors prefer to wander across the street from the Old Mission Inn, set up a chair in the park and simply relax.

Heather Johnson Durocher writes from Traverse City, where she lives with her husband Joe and their three kids.

MichiganRunnerGirl.com.

Clockwise: The inn’s front porch looks out over East Grand Traverse Bay and a stagecoach from a bygone era; The “Essence of Ivy” room also has views of Lake Michigan; historical photos, letters and guest registers are still displayed at the inn; a dining nook and the kitchen.

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C HASI NG WA T E R F A L L S Your guide to a cascading color tour across the U.P.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY ALLISON JARRELL

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THE EARTH

is damp beneath our feet as we plod closer to the copper cascade of Tahquamenon.

I breathe in the fresh forest air, heavy with moisture, and feel energized, ready for the trip ahead.

There’s so much to look forward to—backroad ambles, autumn leaves and waterfalls galore. But, for now, I focus on being present in this fleeting fall moment.

The evening light glows warm, greeting us between hardwoods and pines. Backlit leaves of crimson and gold flutter in the breeze like tissue paper. The branches finally part ways as we come up on our first glimpse of the falls—the soft roar of thousands of gallons of water rushing in the distance.

A sense of awe swells as we walk up to the fenced bluff. The clear Upper Falls view we’ve been expecting has vanished. Instead, the giant showstopping falls create a backdrop for an ethereal, almost fluffy, tangerine mist rising up through the trees. The orange glow is as spellbinding as the falls are impressive—as if the setting sun conjured its own autumnal display.

I soak in the view for as long as possible before lifting my camera.

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That marmalade sunset marked the beginning of a six-day road trip through the Upper Peninsula—just me, my then-boyfriend-now-fiancé, a trunk full of camera equipment and enough playlists and podcasts to fuel 15 hours of driving. Our goal: To visit 10 waterfalls and peep countless leaves beginning in Paradise and ending in Marquette, by way of Grand Marais and Munising.

We left Traverse City during the last days of September and chased autumn to the north—leaving bright greens behind for hints of yellow and red in the east, and trees bursting with color in the west.

Autumn, we came to find out, is the perfect season for a waterfall tour; smaller crowds and cooler hiking conditions mean you can sip your chai latte and reflect in peace.

As we trekked from one waterfall to the next, I couldn’t help but notice how the falling leaves mimicked the cascading water, trickling and twirling toward their end. Fall is a season of change—the turning of the leaves, like the rushing of a waterfall, are gentle reminders that life is fleeting.

Moments like these push us to be present and grateful for where we are and who we’re with.

I thought a lot about that as my boyfriend and I watched the sun set from the top of Marquette’s Sugarloaf Mountain on the fourth day of one of the most beautiful trips I’ve ever taken. And when he turned to me, asking if I’d adventure through life with him forever, the low sun illuminating his smiling face, I said yes, of course—pure joy washing over me, like that first glimpse of a tangerine Tahquamenon. A season of change, just beginning.

As twilight set in on the mountain, we basked in the afterglow—chatting gleefully about all the sunsets and road trips that lie ahead.

THIS AUTUMN, HIT THE BACKROADS WITH THIS ITINERARY, AND FIND YOUR OWN SLICE OF FALL RAPTURE. TAHQUAMENON FALLS STATE PARK / PARADISE Get there: West of Paradise on M-123 As Michigan’s most iconic series of falls—and one of the largest west of the Mississippi River— Tahquamenon’s Upper Falls and Lower Falls still swarm with tourists on a gorgeous fall day. To avoid the crowds, go during the week at the end of the day, and grab a beer and a whitefish sandwich at the on-site Tahquamenon Falls Brewery & Pub before your sunset hike. Also worth catching is the sunrise—or, in our case, the lack thereof. Instead, we were treated the next morning to a thick blanket of fog, with pops of red and amber peeking through.

Explore: The park offers more than 35 miles of trails, accessible overlooks, campgrounds and overnight lodging. Wheelchairs are free to borrow, as well as a track chair on a first-come, first-reserved basis.

Tip: If you’re into rock hunting, especially for Lake Superior agates, be sure to stop at Whitefish Point, just 30 minutes north of the falls, before continuing west.

Opening spread: A glowy sunset at Tahquamenon’s Upper Falls. This spread: A great blue heron fishes for his dinner along the Lower Falls; an earlymorning mist over the Tahquamenon River; a smaller set of cascades down the trail from Chapel Falls.

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SABLE FALLS PICTURED ROCKS NATIONAL LAKESHORE

CHAPEL FALLS PICTURED ROCKS NATIONAL LAKESHORE

Get there: One mile west of Grand Marais

Get there: 15 miles east of Munising

on Alger County Road H-58

off Alger County Road H-58

Stop in Grand Marais for hot cider and a cinnamon roll at The Dream Bean Machine—a VW busturned-coffee shop—and head to the public beach off the main drag for a little more rockhounding (did I mention agates?) before driving five minutes west to Sable Falls. From the parking lot, it’s just a short walk to the 75-foot cascade over sloping sandstone formations. For an even better view, head down a 168-step staircase (it’s worth it!).

There are endless stops to make along the national lakeshore—overlooks, beaches and trails—but we opted to stay the course and drive for about an hour to the Chapel Falls Trail. From the trailhead, it’s an easy 1.4-mile hike along a forested path to an overlook where you can appreciate the 60-foot-high falls, rushing down toward Chapel Lake. Venture past the first overlook, and you’ll be rewarded with smaller falls and rapids along the creek, rock formations covered in gnarled roots and vibrant mushrooms that rival the leaves.

Explore: A short hike past the falls takes you to a rocky beach, where Sable Creek flows into Lake Superior.

Tip: Sable Falls—like many of our Pictured Rocks

stops—was still pretty green during our end of September visit. Fall color timing varies each year; be sure to check local forecasts.

Explore: The Chapel Basin / Mosquito Area has multiple shorter hikes, as well as the 10-mile Chapel Loop that will take you past Chapel Falls to Chapel Rock, Chapel Beach, along the Pictured Rocks cliffs to Mosquito River and Beach, and back to the parking lot on the outer loop trail past Mosquito Falls.

Tip: If you’re continuing west and have some extra time on your hands, head to Miners Falls—the park’s most powerful waterfall—about 10 miles east of Munising.

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The backroads around Marquette were saturated with peach, orange and red during our tour.

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HORSESHOE FALLS / MUNISING Get there: Bell Avenue, just south of downtown If you’re on the fence about paying to see a waterfall: Horseshoe Falls is worth it. I was skeptical about the $10 admission fee, but this serene spot situated on private property was one of my favorite Munising stops. Fueled by underground springs that maintain a temp of 40 degrees year-round, this is the largest spring-fed falls in the area. Watching the water rush down a series of smaller drops— golden foliage strewn across the rocks below—was the break I needed during a busy day of falls hopping.

Explore: Take advantage of the admission fee and sit a spell. Sip your coffee on a bench, enjoy your picnic and watch the breeze carry twirling leaves to the ground below. (Does it get more zen than that?)

Tip: General admission is $10; $8 for 60+, military and vets; $7 for kids 3–12 and free for kids 3 and under. The property is open through mid-October.

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MUNISING FALLS / MUNISING Get there: Where Washington Street becomes Sand Point Road Munising is brimming with falls, like this 50-foot namesake cascade (also a part of Pictured Rocks) that drops over a sandstone cliff. Walk a paved 800-foot trail through a shaded canyon along Munising Creek, and scale two sets of stairs to viewing platforms.

Explore: Nearby Memorial Falls and Tannery Falls are also worth a visit, but both have been closed to the public since May 2021 for trail repairs. The falls may be closed for the 2022 season as well.

Tip: Stop for homemade soup and a sandwich at Driftwood Deli—and grab a pint at the adjoining ByGeorge Brewing in downtown Munising—before hitting your next stop.

WAGNER FALLS / MUNISING Get there: M-94 W (0.3 miles southwest of M-28 junction) This is a must-see waterfall in the Munising area. An easy 0.1-mile trail with a few stairs leads to an observation deck overlooking the impressive cascade, nestled among old-growth pine and hemlock trees. On a busy day, you’ll have to wait your turn on the boardwalk to snap your photos of the falls, but I can think of worse ways to spend 10 minutes than soaking in glowing forest views.

Explore: If you’re looking for an extra hike, hit up the North Country Trail; it follows M-94 at Wagner Falls and enters the Hiawatha National Forest two miles west of the scenic site.

Tip: After the falls, stop in for dinner at Tracey’s, inside

Roam Inn on the west side of town, for a cozy, chic ambience and eclectic fare (get the truffled pasta alfredo and end with a slice of chocolate cake).

Opposite: At Horseshoe Falls, visitors can get up close to the cascades. This page: Situated at the western end of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Munising Falls is one of many to visit in town; a short boardwalk stroll leads to an impressive view of Wagner Falls.

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This page: Spray Falls is best seen by cruise ship or kayak; the crest of Laughing Whitefish Falls, before it cascades 100 feet down a rocky gorge. Opposite: Keep walking past Yellow Dog River Falls, and you’ll be treated to more rapids surrounded by fall foliage.

SPRAY FALLS PICTURED ROCKS NATIONAL LAKESHORE Get there: Take a cruise, kayak, or hike the lakeshore Perhaps one of the most remote falls in the national lakeshore, the 70-foot, aptly named Spray Falls is best viewed from the water. We chose the Spray Falls Sunset Cruise offered by Pictured Rocks Cruises, and it didn’t disappoint. The tour takes you past iconic landmarks like the Grand Island East Channel Lighthouse, Miners Castle, Lovers’ Leap, Indian Head, Grand Portal and Chapel Rock, before arriving at Spray Falls. The autumn views at sunset are pure magic: mineral-painted cliffs and terracotta-colored trees glow orange above the turquoise waters of Lake Superior.

Explore: Those looking for a picturesque hike along the lakeshore can view Spray Falls from the North Country Scenic Trail. From the Chapel trailhead, it’s a 9.6-mile roundtrip hike; from the Little Beaver trailhead, it’s just under 8 miles roundtrip.

Tip: If you’re taking photos during a cruise, try standing on the lower deck—the views from below are just as gorgeous (and have fewer competing photographers in them).

SCOTT FALLS / AU TRAIN TOWNSHIP Get there: Along M-28, across the road from

H.J. Rathfoot State Roadside Park

Scott Falls is a perfect pit stop on your color tour— easily spotted from the highway, and located across from a roadside park with beach access. The gentle falls drop about 10 feet over a sandstone cliff into a small pool.

Explore: Just one mile down the highway awaits sandy Au Train Beach—stretch your legs with a midday or sunset stroll.

Tip: We ended up glamping in a yurt at Au Train

Lake before continuing west. If a queen canopy bed and personal bonfire in the woods sounds like your cup of tea, check out Northwoods Resort’s yurts on Airbnb.

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LAUGHING WHITEFISH FALLS STATE PARK ALGER COUNTY Get there: 20 miles southeast of Marquette About halfway between Munising and Marquette lies Laughing Whitefish Falls—one of the tallest falls in the state at 100 feet and one of the most impressive displays.

Fed by Laughing Whitefish River, the falls cascade through a long rocky gorge with old-growth white pine and hemlock towering above. During our cool, drizzly visit, we were finally rewarded with a full color display; looking out from the crest of the falls, shades of scarlet and ginger extended as far as the eye could see.

Explore: This was hands down one of my favorite hikes— a moderate half-mile trail through lush beech-maple forest leads to the falls. (If you’re into fall mushrooms, this is the spot to peep ’em!) Once you reach the cascade, you can descend a staircase to the bottom of the falls, or view them from an observation deck along the way.

Tip: Pictures do not do this waterfall justice. Take the detour inland and see for yourself.

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YELLOW DOG RIVER FALLS ISHPEMING TOWNSHIP Get there: From Marquette, take CR-550 north toward Big Bay, about 23 miles. Turn left on CR-510. Travel about 7 miles to the steel bridge across Yellow Dog River. Park on the left side of the road to access the trailhead, and follow the trail on the south side of the river, about a mile downstream.

After a wrong (but beautiful) detour down some backcountry roads, we were happy to finally find signage at the trailhead, welcoming us to Yellow Dog Community Forest. (If you’re using Google Maps, be sure to enter “Yellow Dog River Falls trailhead.”) A fairly easy, wooded hike led us to the 20-foot main falls, surrounded by swaths of color mixed with lofty pines. Don’t stop here—the trail continues, taking you along more scenic rapids and falls.

Explore: Just 15 minutes west of downtown Marquette is the old Marquette County Road 510 bridge, which boasts stunning fall foliage views along the Dead River. Enjoy a stroll along the bridge and take a second to learn about the Upper Peninsula Land Conservancy’s efforts to protect the area by purchasing 186 acres of surrounding riparian forest to create the Dead River Community Forest.

Bonus: I’m biased at this point, but I highly recommend taking time for a quick hike up Sugarloaf Mountain, just six miles north of downtown Marquette. The panoramic views are breathtaking.

Tip: Check out Marquette’s many wa-

terfalls while you’re in town: Alder Falls, Big Pup Falls, Pinnacle Falls, Little Garlic Falls and Morgan Falls, just to name a few. At the end of your tour, head to Drifa Brewing Company, the state’s first cooperatively owned craft brewery. With any luck, you’ll catch some live music while you sip and reflect on your trip.

Allison Jarrell is managing editor of Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. allison@mynorth.com

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Photos and story by Allison Jarrell

A Benzie County historian uncovers the region’s history— one gravestone at a time.

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Of Grave Concern

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first attempt at cleaning a headstone was here at the Homestead , Jane’s Township Cemetery, just a few years ago. Benzie Area Historical Society was offering tours (no cleaning, just history), and Jane decided to scout a cemetery she wasn’t familiar with. She did some research ahead of time, and brought with her a list of the Civil War veterans who were buried at Homestead. The only problem—she couldn’t find them. “There were so many headstones that I couldn’t read. So I’m there, using my hands and my fingernails to scrape things off. And I thought, ‘Oh man, I’ve got to find something easier to use!’ And just by process of elimination and a bit of reading, I came up with my cleaning method.”

E

Pictured before cleaning (right) and after (left) is the grave of L.W. Ingersoll, who served in the 5th Michigan Cavalry Regiment during the Civil War.

ngravings obscured by orange and green lichen. Stones chipped and crumbling. Names and dates buried by earth and wildflowers.

Walking through Homestead Township Cemetery, it’s clear that while some graves are pristine—thanks to regular, loving visitors—many go forgotten. As time marches on, gravestones are battered by the elements from above and below—roots from old trees cause stress, while Michigan’s winters take their toll.

Fortunately, one Beulah woman has made it her mission to clean up some of Benzie County’s oldest headstones, shedding light on the region’s history, while teaching others to do the same.

On a recent Sunday afternoon, Jane Purkis was kneeling by an illegible headstone covered in lichen and what looked like dark mildew or mold stains, explaining to a small group of onlookers what her process will be for cleaning it. As we stood in the Beulah cemetery, deeprooted trees offering shade and wildflowers interspersed between graves, it was easy to see why garden cemeteries were considered the first public parks in the country, fit for family picnics after day-long travels. They’re gathering places, designed to welcome both the living and the dead.

Jane, a historian, retired Benzie Central teacher and current docent/curator for the Benzie Area Historical Society, saw an opportunity to utilize these outdoor spaces during the Covid pandemic. Like everything else, the historical society museum was closed to the public during that time, and Jane pitched an educational series on cleaning headstones—something that would keep the museum connected and provide a safe, openair activity for residents.

“I said, ‘I’ll do one every month until I get the whole county taken care of,’” she recalls.

What Jane didn’t know at the time is that while Benzie is the smallest county in the state, it’s home to 18 public cemeteries. And so, what started as a shortterm project has turned into a sprawling three-year venture that will finally be completed next summer, with just four cemeteries left to clean.

Each May, Jane works on the Benzonia Township Cemetery to prepare for Memorial Day, and then chooses a different cemetery once a month through September to clean. Her one-hour workshops usually fall on Sundays at 2 p.m. (check the Benzie Area Historical Society website and sign up for their newsletters for updates). Jane always begins with an in-depth demonstration before sending folks off to clean whichever headstones they choose. Participants are asked to bring their own kit—a bucket, water jugs, a plastic scraper, etc.—but she always has extras packed into the trunk of her car, just in case.

After photographing the workshop, fellow Traverse editor Carly Simpson and I borrowed some plastic scrapers and knelt down in front of two granite gravestones next to Jane. We took turns pouring water over the red slabs before methodically scraping off the seafoam-colored lichen. After a few minutes, the engraved names were legible; the gratification of a job well done was instant. We paused, thankful for the chance to share such an intimate moment—caring for the final resting place of Benzie’s bygone residents.

Why not follow Jane’s lead and keep a water jug and a couple of tools in the trunk of your car? The next time you visit your family plot or pass by a neighborhood cemetery, stop and see whose history you can uncover.

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of all, we don’t use chemicals. This is ‘do no harm.’ If , “First there’s a flag holder, I take the flag out and move it away because I’m dealing with water. I used to get soaked, because you’re on your hands and knees, and you really do get filthy.

Sometimes I dig a little ditch around the headstone so the water has some place to flow.

“With the tall stones, I start at the top and move down to the bottom—my goal is to be able to read it. I do all four sides, but the front is where I really work. The thing that matters the most is having lots and lots of water. Most cemeteries have running water, but I do a reconnaissance trip before I go, because if they don’t, I take 10–12 gallons with me in milk jugs for people to use.

(I can go through about 8 gallons of water just doing one tombstone.)

“You just get the stone wet, and I use a plastic scraper to get most of the original moss and lichen off, if it’s thick. I scrape off big chunks to start. Then I use a brush—it has to be a natural bristle brush. Plastic works if it’s not too stiff, but the natural bristles work the best. For letters, some are raised and some are depressed. For the ones that are depressed, I use wooden shish kabob skewers, and you can really get in there. And then the best thing to use is a toothbrush—and we all have yucky old toothbrushes. I just scrub and scrub with those. You’re not going to get the stains off; you’re still going to have the black stains.

But at least you can read the engraving now. I generally try to start with one that you can’t read, and it blows people away when you start to see the symbols. Some headstones take almost no time to clean, and some you could spend days on.”

I generally try to start with one that you can’t read, and it blows people away when you start to see the symbols.

–Jane Purkis

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a librarian and Benzie County historian , AlwhoBryant, specializes in gravestone symbolism, says: gates signify the gates of heaven opening, an anchor stands for being anchored in faith, ivy represents eternal life, and a finger pointing upward signifies that there’s “one way to salvation.” Other common symbols include a lamb or a dove for a child’s grave, roses for personal love (versus religious love), and fraternal group symbols like the Masons, the Modern Woodmen of America and the Odd Fellows (the latter of which you’ll often see in Benzie, as they had an active chapter in Thompsonville).

Today, newer gravestones can display just about anything that money can buy, from detailed photos etched in stone, to QR codes that scan and reveal more information about the person.

We paused, thankful for the chance to share such an intimate moment—caring for the final resting place of Benzie’s bygone residents.

We were at Champion Hill Cemetery two years ago, also in , “Homestead Township. There was a gentleman’s name and a date on a headstone, but the rest was buried,” Jane recalls. “It was near a pine tree, and there were so many pine needles and the soil had built up. I didn’t know if this date was the date that the man had died. And it was definitely a military tombstone. If it was the day he died, he would’ve been a WWI veteran. If it was the day he was born, and then the date he died was under it, he would’ve been a Civil War veteran. So I had to physically dig the earth and dig it out. I had a group of people with me, and we were sort of guessing. The tombstones look just alike—that was before they did the flat ones. We found out that he was a WWI veteran; it had only his death date, no birthdate. I could’ve just used records and done it on the computer … but this was a lot more fun.”

Allison Jarrell is managing editor of Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. allison@mynorth.com

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>>>>>>>>>

by Elizabeth Edwards

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photos by Andy Wakeman

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Fishtown

Saved from recent high-water levels that threatened its very foundation, one of Northern Michigan’s most iconic tourist attractions is working to help with a save of its own: preserving the state’s fading commercial fishing heritage.

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In

the winter of 2021, as the pandemic raged on and much of the world was locked down, Guinness, the famous Irish beer company, and Carhartt, the well-known Michigan-based outerwear brand, teamed up on a St. Patrick’s Day advertisement called #MakeYourOwnParade— a nudge to beer drinkers to celebrate the holiday even in isolation, and maybe do it wearing Carhartt’s Guinness-branded clothing.

The ad’s primary setting was Fishtown, the 170-year-old enclave of weathered fishing shanties in the Lake Michigan village of Leland.

While most folks know it as a picturesque warren of shops that line the north side of the Leland River— visited by some 300,000 people each year—Fishtown is much more. It is in fact one of the last commercial fishing villages in Michigan’s Great Lakes and was recently named to the National Historic Register. The 14 shanties, 300 feet of wharf and two fishing tugs, the Joy and the Janice Sue, are owned and cared for by the nonprofit Fishtown Preservation Society (FPS). Awash in the sound of waves from the big lake and the rush of whitewater pouring over the Leland River dam, the tiny village has a timeless ambiance—especially in winter, when the crowds are gone and it isn’t difficult to imagine fishermen of yore snug in the shanties, repairing nets and passing a bottle.

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Fishtown’s allure was not lost on Kevin Steen of Rathaus Films, who shot the ad. When commercial fisherman Joel Petersen, who trap nets whitefish from the Joy, stepped up to be in the commercial, Steen knew he had something truly authentic. “He lives and breathes by the water and his trade. He’s the real deal,” says Steen. As the footage in #MakeYourOwnParade moves along, we see Petersen decorating Fishtown’s iconic green tug Joy for St. Patrick’s Day, then captaining it out of its slip in a one-boat, one-man parade—an emotive sight that plays on our inner rugged individualism and pulls a bit on our hearts.

The ad was a huge success—hoodies and tees sporting the Guinness logo sold out on Carhartt’s website within minutes

Opening spread: Amanda Holmes, executive director of Fishtown Preservation, opens the door in the Morris Shanty before its foundation was raised at the end of 2020.

This page: The tug Joy, used by commercial fisherman Joel Petersen, tied up at the Fishtown dock—before it was rebuilt. Opposite page: A veritable time capsule, the Morris Shanty is filled with photos from as long ago as this 1930s, as well as decades-old business cards and advertisements for commercial fishing supplies; “Every nail and piece of metal in the Morris Shanty tells a story, even if we don’t know exactly what their past functions may have been,” says Holmes. “A bottle opener was needed as much for opening a can of marine oil or a can of paint as for having a drink with friends at the end of the day.”; Joel Petersen, his cousin Eric Petersen and Alan Petersen.

of its premiere. But moving as it was, it belied the real-life drama playing out behind the scenes. The truth was, even as Steen’s camera rolled, the shanties and wharves of Fishtown were drowning in historically high waters; equally critical, the Michigan Department of Natural Resources was instituting management provisions that would effectively put Petersen out of the fishing business—along with most if not all of the 11 remaining state-licensed fishing operations.

the Leland River. While across the river tourists swarmed Fishtown’s shops, light pouring through slatted walls illuminated old floorboards under the aqua water that covered them. Holmes pointed out a calendar opened to 1969 tacked to a wall as well as ceiling joists peppered with nails where cedar fishing floats or “corks” were once stored. “The high waters threatened such tangible legacies for all of Fishtown,” she says.

Holmes first started noticing the rising water in 2018 after a very wet spring and summer—water levels rising in Lake Leelanau at the other end of the Leland river are regulated by a dam: “And so the floodgates basically opened,

In the summer of 2020, Fishtown Preservation Society Executive Director Amanda Holmes waded through boothigh water in the old Morris Shanty on the south bank of 44

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winters. The sight of shanties dangling at the end of the Elmer’s crane when they were lifted up and put back down months later on new raised foundations and new wood or sheet piling reinforcements (depending on the shanty) became events attended by a cheering crowd and local media.

>>>>>>>>

Early in May of 2019, a seiche— the term for a sudden rise in water from atmospheric pressure—flooded Fishtown.

Last December another push came when a barge owned and operated by a crew from Beaver Island, 50 miles across Lake Michigan, barreled its way into the Leland River.

Working from a small floating platform attached to the barge, the crew hauled away the old rotted dock and pilings, replacing them on both sides of the river with historically accurate hemlock planks and more than a hundred telephone pole–sized wood pilings driven deep into the river bed. “It’s set for another hundred years,” says Bob Biggs, owner of Biggs Construction.

In a true testament to the public’s devotion to the weathered hamlet, the needed funds came rolling in.

“They came from our donor base, as well as from people from all over the world who just happened to come through and love the place,” says Holmes. “There’s a person in Wisconsin who loves Great Lakes’ preservation projects and who has given us $330,000—and he’s never even been here.” As photo by Summer Meyer

and parts of our dock washed away,” she explains. And then Lake Michigan water levels began to rise, too. Early in May of 2019, a seiche—the term for a sudden rise in water from atmospheric pressure—flooded Fishtown.

Knowing they needed to act immediately, Holmes and her board put the word out to contractors for estimates on what it would take to save the wharf and the most critically affected shanties—including the Village Cheese Shanty (which houses a beloved local sandwich shop), the Morris Shanty and the legendary Carlson’s Fishery where fish have been processed for as long as commercial fishing has existed in Fishtown. The estimates were astronomical. Undaunted, Holmes and her board rolled up their sleeves to fundraise while Biggs Construction, their chosen contractor, assembled a group of businesses to pool their skills and work through the complicated logistics of saving the fragile, cobbled-together shanties and docks on both sides of the river. Because Fishtown is a historical site, all the work was overseen by HopkinsBurns Design Studio based in Ann Arbor—a firm that specializes in preservation.

Most of the work was done in bitter, wintery weather and through Covid shutdowns and restrictions. But the team’s passion turned the renovations into a labor of love— especially for Project Manager Drew Miller of Biggs Construction, who once commercially fished on the Joy, and Tim Newman of Kasson Excavating who owns the Mary Ann—the twin tug to Janice Sue. Both boats were brought over from Wisconsin in 1958 by Fishtown fishermen and used there for decades. Newman purchased the Mary Ann from someone who was going to scrap it. Currently, he is working with Fishtown Preservation to turn it into a floating classroom that’ll be tied up to a dock.

“That tug is a piece of history,” he says.

“If you lose it, you’ll never get it back.”

In January of 2020, the Village Cheese Shanty, slumping precariously into the river then, was the first shanty to be lifted like a tiny dollhouse by an enormous Team Elmer’s crane and set high up on the Leland Harbor parking lot located on a plateau above Fishtown. By spring, it was back snug on a brand-new raised foundation and ready for business. The line for sandwiches the May morning it reopened was the talk of the Leelanau Peninsula.

Work continued on the Morris, Otherside (so named by fishermen because it was on the south or “other side” of the river) and Carlson’s Fishery over the next two

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the work wound up this summer, Fishtown Preservation was just $225,000 shy of raising an ultimate $5.29 million campaign to fund these and several remaining projects.

As the architectural crisis was being resolved one shanty at a time, Joel Petersen and his small brotherhood of remaining commercial fishing families in the state were facing a plight of their own. In late 2020, the Michigan DNR put a management provision into place that would effectively shut down Great Lakes state-licensed commercial fishing for 2021 and beyond. Among its stipulations was a 90-foot depth limitation for trap nets (versus the existing 150 feet) and closing the whitefish season at the end of September—a full month earlier than it has traditionally been.

The restrictions could have been the final nail in the coffin for Michigan’s nearly 200-year-old commercial fishing

Above: The first shanty to get a new foundation in the spring of 2019, the Village Cheese Shanty got right back to the business of selling sandwiches. Opposite: Joel Petersen and his dad, Alan Petersen, head out of the Leland Harbor at dawn.

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industry that once spanned the 35,000 square miles of the state’s Great Lakes waters. For the last 100 years, the fishery has been hit hard by invasive species, beginning with lampreys who swam in through the Welland Canal in the mid-last century, then more recently zebra and quagga mussels and goby fish—brought in via the ballasts of foreign freighters coming through the St. Lawrence Seaway.

Despite the damage wrought by invasives, commercial fishing proponents believe that Michigan is capable of managing a healthy commercial fishing industry as Canada does (most of the Great Lakes fish you order in restaurants are from Canada), even while facing the influence of the powerful sports fishing lobby. Over the decades, the state, pressured by the sport fishing lobby, has effectively winnowed down the fish that can be caught commercially to whitefish and chub. The chub population in the Manitou Passage off the coast of Fishtown collapsed in the 2000s—effectively turning the chub tug Janice Sue into an artifact tied to a dock.

While whitefish catches have slowly diminished over the years, they have shown themselves to be fairly resilient— and very delicious. Petersen, a fourthgeneration commercial fisherman, has stayed in business by trap net fishing for whitefish between his home waters near Muskegon and the Manitou Passage.

When he ties up in Fishtown, he sells his catch to Carlson’s Fishery steps away, where it is processed on the spot and then sold to legions of devoted patrons who understand that lake-to-fork fish is a true delicacy.

If Petersen goes out of business, Nels Carlson, the fifth generation Carlson to operate the fishery, worries about the obvious effect on his business. But the loss would go even further. It would mean, as both Petersen and Carlson point out, that unless people have the money to buy or charter a boat, locally caught fish will be off limits to them.

“You know, when everyone is so big on local and sustainable food—and we are one of the most managed fisheries in the world, they know every pound of fish we catch and where we got it—it’s just not right,” Carlson says.

Moreover, Petersen points out that if commercial fishing dies, a set of fishing/ waterman skills will be lost with it. Captaining the boat while the huge nets are being put down and pulled up from the lake bottom, for instance, is something only learned through years on the water. The nets—typically 40 feet high, 150 feet wide at the mouth and 1,300 feet long—are held down with nine anchors that weigh about 60 pounds each. Tying the intricate knots that fasten the nets to

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photo by Raquel Jimenez

–Kevin Steen

>>>>>>>

“Joel lives and breathes by the water and his trade.

He’s the real deal.”

the anchors is another dying art. “They’re hard knots to learn if you don’t have a photographic memory,” Petersen says.

As those skills fade, it will be up to entities like Fishtown Preservation to preserve the knowledge. Indeed, preserving commercial fishing history is already a major focus for the group, as witnessed in the handsome posters set around the shanties introducing visitors to Fishtown’s legendary fishermen of the past, who called risking their lives on the big lake part of a day’s work.

But last winter, Fishtown Preservation stepped into a

more activist role to get the word out to legislators and the general public about the new DNR provisions. Their work contributed to Public Act 34 of 2022, signed into law last March by Governor Whitmer, that threw a metaphoric life-saving ring to Petersen and his peers: Among other stipulations, it allows up to 150-foot fishing depths and extends the season through October for whitefish.

This fall, if you are in Fishtown at the right time of day, you just may see Petersen captaining the Joy up the Leland River to unload his catch. You’ll know him by the green tug, the scent of freshwater fish and his weather-worn hands—a man devoted to his trade, making his own parade.

Elizabeth Edwards is senior editor of Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. lissa@traversemagazine.com Andy Wakeman is a Northern Michigan-based photographer inspired by the characters and scenic views of his hometown.

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3rd Largest Historic Village & Maritime Museum in the State! Combo Tickets Available!

Last Day of Season Oct. 22

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Memories Worth Making

Bay View Inn I Crooked River Lodge & Suites I Perry Hotel Pier Restaurant I Weathervane Restaurant I Noggin Room Pub STAFFORDS.COM 48

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NORTHERN

For the Way You Live Up North

2022

VIRTUAL HOME TOUR 8

STEP INSIDE STUNNING NORTHERN MICHIGAN DREAM HOMES (SNEAK PEEK INSIDE THIS ISSUE!)

How to Snug Your Porch Local Designers’ Favorite Autumn Inspo A SUPPLEMENT TO

GET MORE LIVING IDEAS AT MYNORTH.COM. CLICK ON LIVE HERE>NORTHERN HOMES & IDEAS

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Giving You That Custom Look Without The Custom Price

Dura Supreme craftsmen take great pride in every cabinet they build. Our kitchen design center would be happy to show you various wood choices, door styles, and finishes to choose from. Call 231.325.4551

Add Dura Supreme throughout your home

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10635 10635 Main Main Street Street Honor, Honor, MI MI 49640 49640

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Design adds value faster than it adds costs.

MJoel Spolsky

w w w. KitchenChoreography .net

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orc h e s t r at i ng you r v ision New Construction Remodel Restoration Including Contract Management

south division street downtown tr averse cit y

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NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2022

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inside OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2022 NORTHERN

28 features

20 /

INTRODUCING: 2022 NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE VIRTUAL TOUR

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CAPE COD MEETS NORTHERN MICHIGAN Presented by MPN, Miller, Poineau & Naumes

26 / COASTAL SHINGLE STYLE

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Presented by Trillium Shore

28 /

STAIRCASE TO HEAVEN Presented by Mapleridge Construction

32 /

NATURE INSPIRED Presented by @Home Cabinetry + Interiors

34 /

VINTAGE ARCHITECTURAL ELEGANCE Presented by Antiquities Warehouse

38 / MOD REFINED

Presented by McLain Designs

42 / TIMBER FRAME BEAUTY

Presented by Scott Norris Construction

46 /

COASTAL FARMHOUSE Presented by CMB Construction

departments

07 / EDITOR’S NOTE Starring Erin Lutke

08 / NORTHERN MOOD Snug Your Porch

11 / COLLECTIONS

Autumn Inspo For Your Home COVER PHOTO BY CHRIS MILLER

Click on Live Here > Northern Home

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231.946.1234 env-arch.com 231-536-0100 • mpnbuild.com Photo by Cerys Anne Photography

Read our story on page 22!

231.946.1234 env-arch.com

en•vi•ron•ment noun • 1. the surroundings or conditions in which a person, animal, or plant lives or operates.

View This Home ON THE VIRTUAL TOUR BEGINNING OCTOBER 28TH Buy Tickets: link.mynorth.com/tour22

Northern Home & Cottage 20

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231.946.1234 env-arch.com

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A MyNorth Media Publication Michael Wnek Cara McDonald

PRESIDENT EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Allison Jarrell

SENIOR EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL CONTENT & SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGIST

Rachel Soulliere Elizabeth Aseritis Caroline Dahlquist

PROOFREADERS

Tim Hussey Theresa Burau-Baehr

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

Rachel Watson

DIGITAL PRODUCTION COORDINATOR

Caitlin Conway Julie Parker

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Erin VanFossen Mike Alfaro Ann Gatrell Keith Hoxie Julie James Meg Lau Kirk Small

SALES COORDINATOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

MARKETING DIRECTOR MARKETING COORDINATOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Erin Lutke Ashlyn Korienek Nichole Earle Libby Stallman

OFFICE MANAGER

Traverse From the Publisher of

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICES

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Visit MyNorth.com/Account to renew your subscription, change your address, or review your account.

Please email other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800.678.3416 between 8:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. EST. REPRINTS

Reprints available. Please call 231.941.8174.

Northern Home & Cottage is published as a supplement to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine.

415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684.

All rights reserved. Copyright 2022, Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan.

COMINS, MICHIGAN 1-800-818-9971

woodworkersshoppe.com NHC

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BUILD BEAUTIFUL Northern Michigan Style

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3rd Find more great Northern Michigan pet articles on MyNorth.com

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EDITOR’S NOTE

STARRING ERIN LUTKE

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Erin Lutke

ove over HGTV stars

Joanna Gaines, Nicole Curtis, Jonathon and Drew Scott … We have Erin Lutke, marketing director for MyNorth Media and star of our Northern Home & Cottage Virtual Home Tours. In the three years since we’ve filmed these tours, Erin has been in and out of more than 20 homes, a film crew following her as she narrates her way from room to room. Erin was made for the camera: She can chat away naturally and intelligently—without a script—and draws you in with her big, beautiful smile. She is also unflappable: During her first year, 2020, she filmed until she was nine-plus months pregnant (watching her while filming, I have to confess to being a little anxious that her baby would arrive while the camera was rolling!). Oscar was born on September 23, 2020, just days after she’d wrapped up the last video. This year, a nasty case of laryngitis slowed her down with four videos left to film. Never fear. She rescheduled and was back on the job ASAP. Erin, of course, is always joined with the other stars of our Northern Home & Cottage Virtual Tour: each of our featured houses. This year Erin will be touring our audience through eight magnificent homes from Glen Arbor to Harbor Springs. Among them, properties as divergent as a minimalist, earthy 1980s condo redo and a stunning nouveau Victorian. As is always the case on our tours, you’ll get shots of waterfront properties that would make the producers at HGTV’s “Beachfront Bargain Hunter” swoon! Read on for sneak peeks of the eight 2022 tour homes. And find out how simple it is to access the tour on page 20. Get ready for a great show!

Elizabeth Edwards is senior editor of Northern Home & Cottage.

Lissa@traversemagazine.com

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Northern Mood

Snug Your Porch Extend your outdoor sitting season with these cozy accessories just right for a sunroom, porch or covered patio.

CURATED BY CARA MCDONALD

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1. Soft Touch Add texture and warmth to your entry or seating area with this 3-by-5-foot Fresca Series IV rug in sturdy and easy-to-clean polypropylene fiber. $172 Woodland Creek Furniture, Traverse City, Kalkaska

3. Light Up Twinkle lights are sweet, but a gorgeous outdoor light fixture like this burnished bronze pendant defines your porch space better and welcomes late-night sitting. $739 Advance Electric, Gaylord advanceelectriclighting.net

woodlandcreekfurniture.com

courtesy photos

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2. Wrap It Up Tucking a luxurious angora mohair throw blanket around your shoulders lets you linger longer in fall’s cold air. $348 Ciao Bella, Petoskey

4. Rock the Night Away This eucalyptus wood and resin rocking chair combines outdoorfurniture hardiness with indoorfurniture comfort and good looks.

VanDrie Home Furnishings, Cadillac, Traverse City, Houghton Lake

ciaobellashop.com

vandrie.com

5. Hand Warmer Northern Michigan potter Amy Gilmore’s Fishtails mug is perfect for sipping a boozy coffee or rum-spiked tea (try the Good Night Moon blend from Traverse City’s Blessed Be Tea & Apothecary for a relaxing cuppa). $45 Amy Gilmore Pottery, Traverse City amygilmorepottery.com

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TRILLIUM Custom Homes www.trilliumshore.com

Photo by Beth Singer

“Architecture should speak of its time and place, but yearn for timelessness.”

Frank Gehry Photo by Dave Speckman

Read our story on page 26!

View This Home ON THE VIRTUAL TOUR Elk Rapids Northville 231.498.2500 248.515.4477 josephmoseyarchitecture.com

BEGINNING OCTOBER 28TH Buy Tickets: link.mynorth.com/tour22

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INSIDER’S GUIDE TO FALL DESIGN INSPIRATION Three NoMi creatives share their go-to’s and favorites of the season.

photo by Allison Jarrell

BY CARA MCDONALD

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INSIDER’S GUIDE TO FALL DESIGN INSPIRATION

MEGAN GILGER Megan Gilger, a third-generation gardener living in Leelanau County, teaches people to garden confidently so they can more deeply connect to nature and themselves through the seasons. She shares weekly gardening tips on her podcast, blog and Instagram, along with wisdom from her garden and nature in Northern Michigan.

“This season is all about learning how to let go gracefully. A dance of sadness and relief mixed with nostalgia comes with the arrival of autumn. The seasons always offer us a lesson to play with, and in autumn, it is always magic to me to watch how easily the trees release their leaves to cover the forest so it can rest and rebuild. There is so much to learn from that metaphor.”

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FAVORITE MOOD SETTERS 1. Jacob’s Farm for apple picking. I love picking apples with my kids, and this is just around the corner from us, so it is easy to swing over after school for some apple-picking fun.

2. Pumpkin collecting. There is always a day we choose to get away as a family and drive up Center Road on Old Mission Peninsula to get our pumpkins. Something about heading up there always feels like a fall adventure. Cory Holman’s Pumpkin Patch is one of our favorites.

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3. A soft linen shirt. I wear my Linen Grandpa Shirt from Toile and Stripes every season, but it works the best on these inbetween days. This shirt is one of my favorite staples with an oversized sweater coat.

4. Hot toddies. The first cool night also calls for the first warm cocktail to fend off the onset of the cold that is bound to come. Local hot apple cider mixed with some bourbon whiskey from Traverse City Whiskey Co. and honey from Champion Hill with a squeeze of lemon is all you need.

5. Wool blankets. We linger on the porch as late as possible in the fall, so we put these wool blankets out to keep us cozy around the fire in the evenings and in the mornings with coffee.

6. Dried flower bouquets. In September, I love to start drying things from our land and garden so I can have them for when everything is done growing, and I can remember the beauty of summer.

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7. Pumpkin donut fix. I am not much of a sweets person, but every fall, I have to enjoy a pumpkin cake donut from Gallagher’s Farm Market on M-72.

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Follow Megan on Instagram: @freshexchange

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INSIDER’S GUIDE TO FALL DESIGN INSPIRATION

ALLISON HARLOW Allison Harlow is the lead interior designer and owner of Curio Design Studio in Marquette. When not designing kitchen, bath and full-service furniture projects, Allison enjoys spending time with her family exploring the beaches and hiking trails of the Upper Peninsula.

“I love how things slow down in fall.

Living in the Upper Peninsula, we know summer will be short-lived, so we pack it full of beach days and hikes and events with family and friends. When fall rolls around things finally quiet down, and it becomes a very peaceful and relaxing time here in Marquette.”

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FAVORITE MOOD SETTERS

photo by Allison Jarrell

1. Scented candles. Light a candle with a soothing woodsy aroma, like a Palo Santo Candle from 906 & Co. in downtown Marquette.

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2. Crisp cider. I love Barrel + Beam Rightful Cider—they do a cider and donut pairing in the fall that is tasty and sells out quickly!

3. Hot coffee and a stroll. In Marquette, we grab seasonal drinks from Contrast Coffee and check out a few of the local galleries like Zero Degrees, Graci Gallery and The Gallery.

4. A colorful hike. We head to Yellow Dog River Falls, plus a side trip from there to Thomas Rock Scenic Overlook off Co. Rd. 550 to see the fall colors.

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5. An inspiring fall arrangement. Samara Floral Co. makes the best, or sign up for one of their fall floral arrangement workshops!

6. Textured wood wall tiles. I love bringing the outdoors in.

7. Warm fall hues. Bringing in warm tones like a copper-colored sofa cozies up your space.

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INSIDER’S GUIDE TO FALL DESIGN INSPIRATION

FORGET-ME-NOT Forget-Me-Not’s three-person team of Carly, Angel and Shanes run a full-service flower shop in Suttons Bay, specializing in custom floral designs that represent relationships and gestures between people, using flowers as their medium.

“To us, fall means rich, moody, saturated colors,” Carly says. “And it means using dried elements such as

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grasses and preserved flowers. It means carving pumpkins as a team to create floral centerpieces. It’s the way purple and orange play together so well. It’s the spooky photoshoots. The animal skulls.

The smell of cinnamon and apples. It’s finding creative methods to use elements that will last the whole month instead of just a week or so.”

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FAVORITE MOOD SETTERS 1. Bold dahlias. It’s the tail end for seasonal flowers, and we love dahlias of all kinds.

2. Dried grasses and curly willow. These add texture and interesting lines to arrangements or make a statement on their own.

3. Long-sleeve dresses. We love working with autumn brides in cooler weather; terracotta/rust/burnt orange/blush wedding flower color stories are especially pretty this time of year.

4. A farm stop. We all love Gallagher’s Farm Market anything, especially hot apple cider.

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5. Inspiring architecture. The old state hospital grounds [now The Commons] are beautiful in autumn (and it’s too fun to pretend you’re ghost hunting to give you the jeebies!).

6. Cheese. For us in fall, it’s warm brie with a honey drizzle, served up with red wine.

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Total Commitment to Quality

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Read our story on page 32!

View This Home ON THE VIRTUAL TOUR BEGINNING OCTOBER 28TH Buy Tickets: link.mynorth.com/tour22

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Photo by Eagle Eye Media

mapleridge.us

Read our story on page 28!

View This Home Northern Home & Cottage 20

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ON THE VIRTUAL TOUR BEGINNING OCTOBER 28TH Buy Tickets: link.mynorth.com/tour22

Northern Home & Cottage 20

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VIRTUAL HOME TOURS

NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2022

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Timber Frame Beauty, Scott Norris Construction photo by Samuel Crick

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I N T R O D U C I N G

T H E

Northern 22 Home & Cottage 20

VIRTUAL HOME TOUR

CAN’T

OFFICIAL SPONSOR

stop binging design shows on HGTV? Looking to build a home and need ideas? You’ll love our 2022 Northern Home & Cottage Virtual Home Tour.

Mark October 28 on your calendar, and block off time to relax and enjoy this year’s event: Eight in-depth video tours through some of Northern Michigan’s most intriguing and gorgeous houses. (Read on for a sneakF E AT U R E D S P O N S O R S

peek of these eight homes!)

Tour-goers love the intimate look that the digital format allows for inside each house, as well as the accompanying interviews with the homeowners and builders. This year, our virtual tour-goers will again find out how our homeowners turned their dreams into reality and meet the local builders, vendors, contractors and architects who made it all possible.

We couldn’t host these tours without our official sponsor, Great Lakes Land Co., specializing in recreational rural land development since 1990.

We also want to thank our featured sponsors, Fischer Insurance, Honor Onekama Building Supply, and Max’s Service. As well as our supporting sponsors PMI Grand Traverse and Bryant Wilson of State Farm Insurance.

SUPPORTING SPONSORS

This year’s revenue from the tour, as it has for the last 10 years, goes directly to Child and Family Services of Northwestern Michigan.

Over the past two years, this tour has raised $40,000 for this critical organization. The homeowners on this year’s tour have truly opened their homes to help a child.

B R YA N T W I L S O N

Accessing the tour is easy! Follow the steps below.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

HEAD TO LINK.MYNORTH.COM/TOUR22.

MAKE A SUGGESTED DONATION OF $15 TO SUPPORT CHILD AND FAMILY SERVICES OF NORTHWESTERN MICHIGAN AND GET YOUR TICKET. WATCH FOR AN EMAIL WITH A UNIQUE PASSWORD. ON OCT. 28, YOU'LL RECEIVE ANOTHER EMAIL WITH A LINK TO THE VIRTUAL TOUR PAGE. ENTER YOUR PASSWORD AND YOU WILL FIND ALL THE HOMES READY TO VIEW!

WANT TO SEE THEM AGAIN AND AGAIN? NO PROBLEM. THE VIRTUAL TOUR WILL BE AVAILABLE FOR VIEWING UNTIL THE END OF 2022.

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2022 NH&C | VIRTUAL HOME TOUR

CAPE COD MEETS NORTHERN MICHIGAN

by HEATHER JOHNSON DUROCHER photos by CERYS ANNE PHOTOGRAPHY



CONTRACTOR MPN, MILLER, POINEAU & NAUMES MPNBUILD.COM

t

his magnificent Northern Michigan take on the venerable Cape Cod style was designed by Fred Ball of Frederick Crosley Ball Associates in Harbor Springs and built by East Jordan’s MPN. Known for their impeccable custom woodworking—MPN has an 11,000-square-foot woodworking facility in East Jordan—Chris Miller and his team were the ideal contractors for this home, which is so full of custom woodwork that the only use of drywall is in the above-the-garage apartment ceiling. “I’m a woodworker at heart,” Miller says. “It’s what I grew up doing. Being able to work with homeowners on a project of this magnitude and with this much detail—it’s very gratifying.

It’s an absolute masterpiece.”

Exterior cedar shake and lap siding; flared-wall designs; custom corbels outlining the windows; pastels and wood-tone accents; a cedar roof and stone masonry fireplaces. Settle back and enjoy one of the region’s most beautiful homes on the Northern Home & Cottage Virtual Tour.

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Read our story on page 34!

View This Home ON THE VIRTUAL TOUR BEGINNING OCTOBER 28TH Buy Tickets: link.mynorth.com/tour22

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231-357-9733 • MclainDesigns.com Photo by J Lynn Photography www.jlynnphotographytc.com

Read our story on page 38!

View This Home Northern Home & Cottage 20

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VIRTUAL HOME TOURS

ON THE VIRTUAL TOUR BEGINNING OCTOBER 28TH Buy Tickets: link.mynorth.com/tour22

Northern Home & Cottage 20

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VIRTUAL HOME TOURS

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2022 NH&C | VIRTUAL HOME TOUR

COASTAL SHINGLESTYLE

by ELIZABETH EDWARDS photos by DAVE SPECKMAN



BUILDER JAMIE WILKINS, TRILLIUM SHORE LLC TRILLIUMSHORE.COM LOCATION WILLIAMSBURG

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his beautiful home sits on a bluff 70 feet above East Grand Traverse Bay, a perch that offers a stellar view across the water to Old Mission Peninsula. The homeowners originally asked Jamie Wilkins for a construction bid—along with many other fine Northern Michigan builders—in 2019. Deciding the home would be too large, they tabled the project. When they were ready to start again last year, they went straight to Wilkins. “We’d felt an immediate connection to Jamie the first time we met him,” the homeowner says. “He had this appreciation for older homes and so do we. We wanted a Shingle style with a lot of traditional touches.

We saw his work and the quality was terrific.”

Wilkins suggested Steve Werner of Shoreline Architecture & Design based in Petoskey to help the couple pare down their original plan.

The home has all of the gracious qualities of a coastal estate: cathedral ceilings, windows across the front to let in water views, elegant white oak floors and a kitchen (by Heather Neal Design) with marble counters and a butler’s pantry. Even with all of that and more, Wilkins and the homeowners agree that the home’s pièce de résistance is the round, covered and screened porch off the side of the home that is outfitted with a fieldstone foundation and a massive fieldstone fireplace.

In the midst of construction, the family had a medical emergency and needed to let Wilkins make many decisions himself. “We knew they would be what we would choose ourselves,” says the homeowner. One of those decisions was cladding the ceiling in marine-grade mahogany, instead of the beadboard the homeowners assumed it would have. To top it off, he hand-painted a compass rose in the ceiling peak. “It’s a work of art,” the homeowner says.

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2022 NH&C | VIRTUAL HOME TOUR

STAIRCASE TO HEAVEN

by HEATHER JOHNSON DUROCHER photos by EAGLE EYE MEDIA, GREG MACMASTER



CONTRACTOR MAPLERIDGE CONSTRUCTION MAPLERIDGE.US LOCATION LOCHENHEATH, WILLIAMSBURG

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nside this two-story, 4,400-square-foot LochenHeath home, a white oak and stainless stair system encased by floor-to-ceiling glass on two sides is what Mapleridge Project Manager Jim Petaja describes as a “glowing lantern of light.” It’s a significant highlight of this home (a custom sliding barn privacy door closes off the second floor from the glowing stair core) with beautiful views of the fairways in this community just east of Traverse City and overlooking East Grand Traverse Bay. Another stand-out feature of the home: a “man cave” complete with a fireplace, built-ins, kitchen and pool table—a perfect place to stream movies or the big game. Each guest bedroom has its own private bathroom with custom showers, glass doors and tile work. The primary bath, meanwhile, features heated floors as well as a free-standing basin tub, cathedral ceiling and large walk-in shower. Mapleridge used maintenance-free CertainTeed shake siding and Restoration trims, and incorporated a cool “sun tube” giving light to a hidden second story office or playroom. A fabulous home entertaining touch: the large pantry and butler’s pantry feature direct access to a grilling porch.

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FALL INTO NORTHERN MICHIGAN Your all-access gateway to exploring up north this fall

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NATURE INSPIRED

by HEATHER JOHNSON DUROCHER photo by DAVE SPECKMAN

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driftwood walking stick—propped, ready and waiting on the deck for beach strolls—played a pivotal role in the complete overhaul of this mainfloor Homestead condo that served as a longtime family vacation spot for three sisters throughout their childhoods. Home designer Liz Jerore, working with the siblings on the renovation, noticed the walking stick, with its “beautiful range of earthy colors,” became inspired, and spoke with the new homeowners about using it to build a color palette. The hues proved perfect for a truly updated summer place featuring modern minimalist aesthetics. Jerore, of @Home Cabinetry + Interiors, and her team removed a partition wall, turning the 1,400-square-foot condo into a spacious area ideal for multi-family gatherings. A custom cottonwood-slab dining table, featuring a black steel base and paired with modern low-back chairs, accommodates 12. Other home highlights include natural hickory post-and-beam that defines the dining area and foyer, a corner fireplace— clad in sheets of steel that were powder-coated black—updated kitchen and baths, and luxury vinyl-plank flooring. For these sisters and their families, renovating this cherished place meant honoring the past while carrying forward a legacy for generations to come.

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VINTAGE ARCHITECTURAL ELEGANCE

by ELIZABETH EDWARDS photos by DAVE SPECKMAN



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his home on Old Mission Peninsula was completely renovated by the designers at Antiquities Warehouse— a juggernaut of vintage architectural antiques from Europe and across the country. Antiquities Warehouse is based in a 35,000-square-foot warehouse in Arizona (and a place where the likes of Ralph Lauren and Joanna Gaines shop), but maintains a smaller location on Garland Street in Traverse City.

This home is a vivid example of what can be done with those one-of-a-kind vintage finds most of us swoon over, but have no idea what we’d do with. Every door (many from European castles) and mirror (including some from the tailor’s dressing room at the long-closed Detroit Schenectady’s department store) in this home are vintage. The primary bed headboard once was a French gate, and the bricks around the firepit are antique from Belgium. An elegant chunk of the carriage doors from the old Dodge Mansion in Detroit (also called Rose Garden) now open into this home’s wine cellar.

The work of local craftspeople pulls the eclectic look together.

Check out a stone drive, stone fireplaces and more by Jamie Nowicki of Michigan Stone Products, handcrafted walnut kitchen cabinetry by Larry Hammond of Olive Creek Furniture, lighting by Eric Apsey of EA Electric and landscaping by Jordan Valdmanis of Old Mission Associates.

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MOD REFINED

by ELIZABETH EDWARDS photos by J. LYNN PHOTOGRAPHY



DESIGNER MEAGAN MCLAIN, MCLAIN DESIGNS MCL AINDESIGNTC.COM LOCATION OLD MISSION PENINSULA

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hen these homeowners, who had just moved back to the United States after years living in England, found this Brady Bunch–era ranch house on Old Mission Peninsula, they knew it was the perfect home for their collection of mid-century modern furniture.

After purchasing it, they plunged into a renovation with an eye toward keeping the mid-century soul but updating it with a clean, minimalist style.

Working with contractor JP Construction and kitchen designer Meagan McLain of McLain Designs, they transformed the home. Job one was replacing the dark, heavy kitchen cabinetry with sleek white acrylic Artizan cabinetry by Woodland. Next, a peninsula that blocked the cooking space from the rest of the kitchen area was removed and replaced with an island topped in Unique Calacatta by MetroQuartz. A walnut table extends from the counter, creating an L-shape and offering seating that takes in the water view outside. The perimeter counters are also Unique Calacatta Quartz—and used, as well, to face the walls behind the counter up to the ceiling. The GE Café appliances are anything but last century— the homeowners can operate them completely using Siri. The sleek induction cooktop is topped with a mod, barrel-shaped hood made by the Italian company Futuro Futuro. Other new touches are a bar in the kitchen and buffet-style cabinetry for serving hors d’oeuvres to guests lounging in that original ’70s-style sunken living room.

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2022 NH&C | VIRTUAL HOME TOUR

TIMBER FRAME BEAUTY

by HEATHER JOHNSON DUROCHER photos by SAMUEL CRICK



BUILDER SCOTT NORRIS CONSTRUCTION SCOT TNORRISCONSTRUCTION.COM LOCATION GREEN LAKE

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his gorgeous corner lot, with frontage on both the Betsie River and Green Lake, stood out to these Chicago homeowners not only for their long-term retirement plans, but also for their more immediate wishes: entertaining lots of friends and family in the interim. The property also happened to be home to a 100-year-old white pine, a beloved landmark that sadly was ravaged by disease and had to come down before building could begin.

However, builder Scott Norris, known for his exquisite woodworking, believed the tree could live on.

Working with the homeowners, Norris payed homage to it with custom pieces throughout their home—a white pine powder room vanity and other built-ins, a fireplace mantle and accents to the range hood in the kitchen, as well as a special art piece he crafted with slabs from the tree itself. The home is a white pine timber frame house, a specialty of Norris and his team (they operate their own timber frame shop).

Just as the owners wanted, the waterfront cottage features plenty of bedrooms—a primary on the main floor, two bedrooms upstairs and a suite atop the garage—so each guest has ample space and always feels right at home.

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COASTAL FARMHOUSE

by ELIZABETH EDWARDS photos by DAVE SPECKMAN



CONTRACTOR CMB CONSTRUCTION CMBQUALIT Y.COM LOCATION OLD MISSION PENINSULA

c

olin Bushong and his team of three extraordinarily skilled craftspeople lent their talents to this beautiful coastal farmhouse (or beachy farmhouse as the homeowner refers to it) on Old Mission’s East Bluff where the view looks out over East Grand Traverse Bay. “What was really special about what Colin brought to the table is his level of teamwork, and the quality of work that his three craftsmen do,” says the homeowner. That quality, she adds, is apparent in the home’s built-ins and beautiful trimwork. “We put shiplap in places as unique touches, and the way they finished the shiplap on corners and edges—I mean, it’s just a real quality job.”

Designed by architect Jessica Van Houzen Stroud, the home was made for entertaining the couple’s adult children and their families. To that end, a magnificent primary bedroom with a huge primary bathroom and equally huge view is on the ground floor. Three en suite bathrooms and a bunkroom upstairs offer plenty of room for visiting family.

The great room’s breezy feel is warmed with oak beams and oak trim. Liz Jerore of @Home Cabinetry + Interiors designed the kitchen and worked with the homeowner on interior choices. (See her work in the story “Nature Inspired” on page 32.)

Both Bushong and the owner agree that the porch across the lake side of the home that takes full advantage of the view is their favorite feature—especially the three-season porch set within the larger porch area. This porch, Bushong says, utilizes a product called Eze-Breeze that is screened in the summer but can be converted to polymer windows in the winter. Warmed by a grand, cultured-stone fireplace, the room can be used from spring through fall. Finally, lovers of great garages and storage areas will appreciate the three-stall attached garage complemented by a free-standing garage for recreational vehicles.

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T he Cu l i nary North local restaurants . craft drinks . seasonal cuisine

“

New England has the lobster roll.

The Windy City has a Chicago Dog. Michigan’s Upper Peninsula has the pasty.

—STACEY BRUGEMAN, CULINARY COLUMNIST

Northern Michigan Restaurant Guide Looking for a new spot to try? Find the North’s most complete restaurant directory online at link.mynorth.com/restaurants

TUNNEL OF TREES TAPROOM P. 50 CHERRY HUT CELEBRATES 100 P. 51 ROOT VEGETABLE PASTIES P. 52 THE POMMEAU FLIP P. 54

photo by Dave Weidner NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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T he Cu l i nary North Grab & Go

Petoskey Brewing’s beer-battered fries are always a good idea.

left photo courtesy of Petoskey Brewing, inset photo by Rachel Haggerty

TOAST THE TUNNEL

by CARLY SIMPSON

Pair your fall color drive on M-119’s famously scenic Tunnel of Trees with a stop at Petoskey Brewing.

GRAB

Petoskey Brewing Cross Village 6352 N. Lake Shore Dr., Cross Village

Harbor Springs

There’s lots to celebrate at Petoskey Brewing—a 10-year anniversary, the recent release of its first spirits and the opening of a second taproom in Cross Village. The new location, with generous outdoor seating, will be open six months a year, from Memorial Day to Halloween, serving both food and craft beverages. Fall’s most popular brews: Oktoberfest (a malty Märzen with hints of toffee and caramel) and Super Trooper (a coffeeand-donut brown ale). Pair either with a burger—Petoskey Brewing is known for its smashed patties on brioche buns. The Signature Burger features two Toski

Sand’s beef patties topped with cheddar, Plath’s bacon and secret sauce. petoskeybrewing.com GO

Tunnel of Trees M-119 begins at the north end of Petoskey, but it doesn’t officially become The Tunnel of Trees until north of Harbor Springs. From there, the twisty 20-mile route framed by hardwoods traces a spectacular bluff overlooking Lake Michigan. Things to know: The road is very narrow so take it slow; watch out for cyclists; the views really are worth the hype. “The drive on M-119 is, in our opinion, one of the most beautiful drives in the Midwest,” says Tyler Gostinger, Petoskey Brewing’s operations manager.

“And we’re now on both ends of it.”

Tip: Follow Petoskey Brewing on Facebook for upcoming events like classic cruise nights.

Bonus Content on MyNorth.com Everything you need to know about Northern Michigan’s Tunnel of Trees: link.mynorth.com/tunneltreesguide

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T he Cu l i nary North Served

D I N I N G OUT

100 YEARS OF PIE

by CARLY SIMPSON

Order one more slice as The Cherry Hut’s centennial season comes to a close.

photos by Dave Weidner

D

uring the summer and fall, the Case family spends their days at The Cherry Hut welcoming guests, baking pies, washing dishes and taste testing lemonade, a special job reserved for their youngest son, Caleb.

“Our family takes great pride in our business,” says Christy Case, who owns the iconic 100-year-old Beulah establishment with her husband, Andy. “It isn’t just a restaurant or a gift shop or a place that sells homemade jams and jellies. It truly means something to people. It is a memory, an experience.”

The past 10 decades at The Cherry Hut have seen many people return for a slice of pie and nostalgia, some spotlighted in the recently published “From Pie Stand to Icon” by Claudia C. Breland. The book chronicles The Cherry Hut’s history, from its start as a simple roadside stand, where Dorothy Kraker sold pies made with cherries from the family orchard, to a much-loved fullservice restaurant.

One guest featured in the book, Scott W. Wagner of Granville, Ohio, says, “I will always be grateful to The Cherry Hut for being an unchanging icon of the region, where my family can walk in and feel like we are home.”

What to order: The roast-turkey dinner with all the fixings is a fan favorite.

On fall weekends, opt for warming chili and cornbread. And this month only, don’t miss a slice of homemade apple pie with a scoop of cinnamon ice cream.

Andy and Christy Case; A slice of Cherry Hut’s famous pie.

The Cherry Hut will close the doors on its 100th season on Oct. 23. The Benzonia gift shop will open a few weeks later, after the Cases have taken a well-earned rest.

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T he Cu l i nary North On the Table

DINING IN

ROOTED IN TRADITION

by STACEY BRUGEMAN

In this autumn reinterpretation of a pasty, the humble rutabaga — and just about every other root vegetable you can think of — shines.

N

ew england has the lobster roll.

The Windy City has a Chicago Dog. Michigan’s Upper Peninsula has the pasty.

These handheld meat pies originally hail from Cornwall, England, and were the go-to lunch of Cornish immigrant miners throughout the U.P. in the mid 1800s. The iron and copper mines in which pasties were eaten have long since closed, but seemingly every roadside diner from St. Ignace to Ironwood still serves the dish. Over the course of now-countless trips north of the Mighty Mac I’ve had pasties served with a pat of butter, slathered with gravy and offered with ketchup. While the condiments vary, the filling is often the same—a mixture of beef, rutabaga and potato that is flavored with suet.

Look, I come from a long line of meat-and-potatoes folks. I married a meat-and-potatoes kind of guy. I am sincerely happy to be a simple meat-and-potatoes gal when I’m 52

not “on the clock.” But if I’m being honest, the traditional pasty has never really done it for me. I’ve always wondered why Michigan cooks haven’t followed in the footsteps of Cousin Jenny’s on Traverse City’s Union Street and explored more modern interpretations of the meal. The original intent—a warm, portable lunch eaten in-hand—is pure gold.

But I’d love to see pasties loaded with eggs and potatoes for breakfast. Where is the version that’s filled with chorizo and green olives like an Iberian empanada? And every fall I’ve always wanted to make a vegetarian pasty—stuffed with a seasonal rainbow of root veggies. So, I did.

With respect for tradition, I doubled down on the rutabaga. But there are also magenta beets, coral-colored carrots, purple Peruvian potatoes, even a tart autumn apple. Instead of suet, there’s goat cheese and olive oil. I threw in a kiss of fresh thyme. I know change is hard. But so, too, is adulting. If my autumn reinterpretation of Northern Michigan’s favorite portable meal gives us one more recipe to feel good about throwing at our families on everyone’s way out the door—a more seasonal, scratch-cooked option to eat from behind the steering wheel—that’s a win in this happy circus.

Stacey Brugeman is a 20-year food and beverage journalist.

Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Travel + Leisure, Saveure, Eater and on Instagram @staceybrugeman.

Dave Weidner is an editorial photographer and videographer based in Northern Michigan. Follow him on Instagram and Facebook @dzwphoto.

Sarah Peschel is a stylist and photographer with an appreciation for all things related to local agriculture, food and drink.

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DOWNTOWN PETOSKEY

^ Root Vegetable Pasty Makes 8 supper-sized pasties 4 cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for rolling out the dough 1 teaspoon salt, divided 2 sticks cold unsalted butter, diced 1 small rutabaga, peeled and diced 1 pound any other mixed root vegetables—carrots, turnips, beets, parsnips, sweet potatoes, waxy potatoes or radishes— peeled and diced 1 green Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and diced 1 cup diced red onion, about half an onion 3 Tablespoons olive oil 1 large, 10.5-ounce log goat cheese, crumbled Leaves from 8 thyme sprigs freshly ground black pepper 1 egg, gently beaten with a fork

photo by Dave Weidner // styling by Sarah Peschel

1. In a large bowl, combine flour and ½ teaspoon salt. Place pieces of cold butter in the bowl and work it into the flour mixture with a pastry blender until well incorporated. If any pearl-sized pieces of butter remain, pinch them between your fingers until they break down and disappear into the flour, working quickly so the mixture doesn’t warm.

2. Place a few ice cubes into a liquid measuring cup and fill it with cold water to the 1-cup line. Add small amounts of cold water to the flour mixture, kneading it with your hands as you go. Add more water just until the dough sticks together to form one ball, knowing you may not need the entire cup. Working on a lightly floured surface, knead the dough with the palms of your hands briefly, just until the dough is one cohesive unit.

3. Break the dough into 8 equal-sized pieces and form into individual balls.

Press down on each ball with the palm of your hand to form a disk the size of a hamburger patty.

Wrap each disk with plastic wrap, place the wrapped disks in a sealable plastic bag or container and set them in the refrigerator for at least an hour and up to 3 days.

4. Meanwhile, peel and dice the rutabaga, root vegetables, apple and onion and add them to a large bowl.

Drizzle with the olive oil, season with the remaining ½ teaspoon of salt and toss with your hands to evenly coat.

5. Preheat oven to 375 degrees, line two baking sheets with parchment paper and remove the dough disks from the refrigerator. Working over a lightly floured surface, roll each ball out until it is 8 inches in diameter, about the size of a salad plate. Divide the root vegetable mixture evenly among each circle of dough, placing about 1 cup onto one half of each disk. Distribute the goat cheese and thyme leaves evenly among all 8 pasties and top each heap of vegetables with a few twists of freshly ground black pepper.

6. Carefully fold the empty half of the dough over the top of the filling, tugging it gently to get it to stretch over your colorful pile of root vegetables and meet the other edge.

Press the two edges together with your fingers to seal. Working with your thumb and forefinger, press overlapping folds of dough along the edge of each pasty and place the pasties on the parchment-lined baking sheets. Using a pastry brush, paint both the top and crimped edge of each pasty with the beaten egg, and place the baking trays in the oven. Bake for 50 minutes, swapping the location of the two baking sheets halfway through baking, until pasties are a deep golden brown. Allow the pasties to rest until they have cooled enough to handle, hand them out as you fly out the door and eat on the run. – S.B.

Over 100 Years of Family Tradition

Order ahead or have them shipped directly to you!

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ADVANCED PREPARATION: Dough can be made in advance and kept refrigerated for 2 to 3 days. Assembled pasties can be individually wrapped in plastic wrap and frozen until you are ready to bake them.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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T he Cu l i nary North Last Call

APPLE OF OUR EYE

by STACEY BRUGEMAN

This fall, we’re obsessed with a centuriesold sipper called pommeau that’s now showing up in Northern Michigan.

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all me captain obvious, but I always love pouring apples into my glass each October. Sometimes that means running U-Pick Honeycrisps through our juicer, other times I join my kids in sucking down a glass of cider from our favorite Northern Michigan farmstand. On rare occasions, I might even treat myself to a nip from my bottle of Calvados. Recently, I’ve also started adding pommeau to my autumn lineup.

Pommeau is a sweet but not cloying cordial that is made by combining high-proof apple brandy with fresh apple juice before the combination is aged in barrels. Apple farmers in Normandy and Brittany have been making the port-like sipper since the 16th century. Here in Michigan, Mike Beck began distilling and aging a pommeau for Uncle John’s Cider Mill north of Lansing some 20 years ago, and the product is now being crafted Up North. Tandem Ciders and Two K Farms—both located in Suttons Bay—also bottle the sweet treat. “We make it by blending sweet cider with cider brandy and aging it in American oak barrels,” says Tandem’s cider maker Dan Young. The latest batch, which Young named Pomona after the Roman goddess of fruit trees and orchards, was aged for 52 months.

Pommeau has notes of baked apple and caramel and tastes like an apple wine. It is historically thought of as an aperitif, but I like it even better at the end of a meal, much like a dessert wine. I also love mixing it into a flip.

Flip cocktails have been around almost as many hundreds of years as the tradition of pommeau. Before the category of cocktails became associated with rum or other boozy spirits they were originally made with beer, wine or sherry.

In this recipe, we bring the flip back to those wine-based roots, which makes this a relatively lower alcohol option 54

to add to your cocktail canon. Traditionally, flips—the same category of cocktails from which homemade eggnog comes—are served with a few passes of freshly shaved nutmeg on top, but I recommend skipping that when making one with pommeau. Instead, the nose of butterscotch and brown sugar found in a good pommeau benefit from a twist of bright lemon. Plus, maybe that’s just unexpected enough to allow me to keep drinking apples this October without worrying that I’m becoming too predictable.

Stacey Brugeman is a 20-year food and beverage journalist.

Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Travel + Leisure, Saveur, Eater and on Instagram @staceybrugeman.

Dave Weidner is a local photographer for Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. Follow him on Instagram @dzwphoto.

Sarah Peschel is a stylist and photographer with an appreciation for all things related to local agriculture, food and drink.

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Pommeau Flip Serves 1 1 fresh egg 2 ounces pommeau, such as Two K or Tandem ½ ounce simple syrup

photos by Dave Weidner // styling by Sarah Peschel

3 dashes of lemon bitters 1 piece of freshly cut lemon peel Place ice cubes in a flared cocktail glass or small wine glass to chill. Add egg, pommeau and simple syrup to a large, dry shaker. Seal tightly and shake continuously until the egg is emulsified and foamy, about 30 seconds. Carefully open the top of the shaker, add one or two ice cubes and shake again until the shaker is cold, about 10 seconds.

Discard the ice in the glass and pour contents of the shaker into the glass, being sure not to leave any of the frothy egg behind. Garnish with a few dashes of bitters and serve with a piece of lemon peel. Go ahead and flare that lemon peel if you know how, hot shot.

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love of the land get there

photo by Dave Weidner

HARTWICK PINES STATE PARK It’s easy to lose yourself in fall colors at Grayling’s 9,700-acre Hartwick Pines—one of Michigan’s largest state parks. Craig Kasmer, a park interpreter, highlights the “wide variety of tree species that offer a mosaic” of warm hues, perfect for a stunning fall hike. “When the leaves are coming down, there’s an aroma in the air,” he adds. The park offers 21 miles of trails, including the accessible1.25-mile paved Old Growth Forest Trail next to the visitor center.

Hartwick Pines is home to 49 acres of majestic old-growth red and white pines—one of the last stands in the state.

To capture autumn in all its glory, Kasmer recommends visiting in mid-October on a “beautiful, sunny day.”-Alea Wilkins

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