Traverse Northern Michigan, August 2025

08.2025 INSIDE

Northern Home & Cottage

WILDER SHORES 6 J AW- D R O P P I N G WAT E R F R O N T H I K E S

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Delish!

Summer Recipes for the Cottage

A Motel Love Story

Everyone’s Welcome in Bear Lake

AUGUST 2O25

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$6.5O

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MORE THAN A HORSE SHOW—AN EXPERIENCE TOP SPORT. SUMMER SETTING. AN UNFORGETTABLE DAY. JUST 15 MINUTES FROM DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY.

AUGUST + SEPTEMBER HIGHLIGHTS

PLAN YOUR VISIT

 3 Five-Star Events  Major League Show Jumping  Longines FEI Jumping World Cup™—Traverse City  The historic American Gold Cup New This Year: Farm to Stable Dinner Series Top chefs. Unforgettable setting...Limited seats.

General admission supports local charities.

Tickets, schedule + more at TraverseCityHorseShows.com/Visit

Charlotte Jacobs and Rincoola Milsean. Photo: Megan Giese Photography

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Building and Renovating Northern Michigan’s Finest Residences

joel@joelpetersonhomes.com • 516 E. Front St., Traverse City • 231.994.2168

00 S Lake Leelanau Drive, Lake Leelanau Remarkable opportunity to build a classic Northern Michigan cottage on Lake Leelanau with J. Peterson Homes. The wooded site features a gentle slope down to the waters edge. The home offers a large main floor primary with an additional primary or loft space on the second floor. Main floor features wide open great room with sliders leading onto a screen porch for those warm summer evenings.

The upstairs finds two additional bedrooms and a bath. Amenity includes custom trim work, hardwood floors, tile, quartz tops, Kohler fixtures and more. Conventional septic system approved.

MLS:1935421 $2,600,000

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features 24

08.25

Welcome, All

Driving down a dream to revive a 1962 roadside motel, Marta Turnbull’s radiant free spirit and purposeful inclusivity is along for the ride—quickly elevating this quiet lake town to destination status.

BY E M I LY B E T Z T Y R A / PHOTOS BY T I M H U S S EY

/30 30//

Wild Shores

Wide horizons. Sweeping shorelines.

Trails for miles. These are our favorite waterfront hikes.

BY A L L I S O N J A R R E L L AC O S TA

/ 36 36//

PHOTOS BY DAV E W E I D N E R

Time-tested, staff-loved recipes perfect for August’s farm-to-table bounty.

SPECIAL SECTION:

Classics from the Cottage Cookbook

BY E M I LY B E T Z T Y R A

43// /43 NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE

PHOTOS BY T O D D Z AW I ST OWS K I AND B R I A N C O N F E R

photo by Tim Hussey

DISCOVER MORE ABOUT UP NORTH PEOPLE, PLACES, FOOD AND EVENTS.

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AUGUST 2025

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TWIN BAY DOCKS AND PRODUCTS Poly Furniture Line

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Dock Mounted Swivel Chair Dock Mounted Bench • Made of high-quality recycled materials • No use of fasteners on the poly construction • Heavy duty 360 metal swivel • 100% Plastic Welded seams • Easy to clean and maintain • 21” wide seat • Height adjustable pedestal mount, constructed of powder coated aluminum • Not limited to a Twin Bay Dock; Designed with versatility in mind • Easy install and removal using our bracket system • Slotted under arms for easy attachment of accessories (i.e. cup holder) • Engineered to last

• Not limited to a Twin Bay Dock; Designed with versatility in mind • Engineered to last • Slotted under arms for easy attachment of accessories (i.e. cup holder)

ment of accessories (i.e. cup holder) • Engineered to last

See entire line at twinbaydockproducts.com

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4 T R AV E R S E N O R T H E R N M I C H I G A N

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Let us help make your dreams a reality.

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Specializing in custom design & designer collections wexfordjewelers.com • 231-775-1289

departments 09 | Editor’s Note 13 | Up North

Inside the Tunnel of Trees, a delightful dog parade, and a star-powered new food festival.

18 | Travel

An iconic regional art gallery becomes the perfect road-trip destination.

65 | Culinary North

Roadside pizza perfection, and Petoskey’s sleek new modern-Italian restaurant.

72 | Love of the Land photo by Tim Hussey

Soaking in the beauty of the Betsie Valley Trail.

633 Madeira Dr, Traverse City Main floor living • Open concept layout 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms Private primary suite • Finished lower level with kitchenette Gas fireplace • Attached 3-car garage Stunning 3-season room with floor-to-ceiling windows MLS 1934852 l $799,900

ANN PORTER

ASSOCIATE BROKER / REALTOR

231.944.4959

ON THE COVER Bare Bluff on the Keweenaw Peninsula Photo by Aaron Peterson

Ann Porter Ann@AnnPorterTC.com ASSOCIATE BROKER

Find detailed listing information 231.944.4959 at www.AnnPorterTC.com

Ann@AnnPorterTC.com

521 Randolph Street, Traverse City, MIfor 49684 Visit AnnPorterTC.com

more information.

521 Randolph Street, Traverse City, MI 49684 AUGUST 2025

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Visit Our Website

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Traverse

NORTHERN

Your neighborhood grocery store.

MICHIGAN A MyNorth Media Publication

Vol. 45 | No. 3

EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Cara McDonald

ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Allison Jarrell Acosta Caroline Dahlquist

PROOFREADER

Lissa Martin Meagan Francis Carly Simpson

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

Tim Hussey Theresa Burau-Baehr

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

Rachel Watson Lisa Froning

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Rachel North Leland Pavlinac

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

DIRECTOR OF AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT/SUBSCRIPTIONS

Asher Considine

MARKETING COORDINATOR

Ashlyn Korienek

Northport • Traverse City • Interlochen

EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICES

415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.775.3478 | Fax: 231.941.8391 SUBSCRIBER SERVICES

Visit MyNorth.com/Account to renew your subscription, change your address or review your account.

Subscribe to Traverse Northern Michigan at MyNorth.com/Subscribe.

Please email other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 231.775.3478 between 8:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. EST.

Enjoy a short drive along the bay for breakfast, lunch or dinner at Knot Just a Bar, where there’s a view to feed your soul

Traverse Northern Michigan, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly by Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan, 415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684. Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse Northern Michigan, 415 Cass St., Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $39.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $6.50. All rights reserved. Copyright 2025, Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan.

Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

Follow Us On Social Media facebook.com/mynorthmedia instagram.com/mynorthmedia

Open 7 Days a Week

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N West Bay Road, Omena, MI 49674 231.386.7393 | knotjustabar.com

AUGUST 2025

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Featuring the freshest salads, pastas, seafood, and steaks Tues-Fri 5-9pm Sat 9am-9pm • Sun 9am-8pm TheBluePelican.com 231-544-2583 Central Lake, MI

Food & Drink Newsletter

412 N St Josephs Suttons Bay 231-252-4132

Dig into Northern Michigan with us and find out where to eat, drink, and taste!

Delivered to your inbox monthly:

MyNorth.com/Newsletter

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Editor’s Note

E

mily tyra and i have been friends since that first hot and hazy summer when we started our jobs at this magazine more than 25 years ago, when we drove endless laps around Northern Michigan reporting on stories, raiding roadside stands, bakeries, gourmet shops and farmers markets. We shared lunch breaks over to-go cups of Poppycock’s tomato soup. And after hours, we still had time for more.

Emily and her boyfriend (now husband), Andrew, were renting a cinder-block cottage on Old Mission Peninsula. It wasn’t fancy, but the little sliver of across-the-road beach it came with was pure luxury, and became home to regular weekend beach suppers.

We called it Stone Soup—our Sunday get-togethers where we pooled our market finds into delicious, shareable delights. Each week another dish representing Em and I with dear whatever was in season showed friends at Stone Soup up, and we realized that separately, we may pick and poke at a recipe or two, but together we’d feast like kings. Pizza with kale and shaved Parmesan. Grilled sweet corn with basil butter. Pastry purses with hot blueberry compote and melting scoops of vanilla. We balanced our plates with a sweating bottle of beer and dashed across Peninsula Drive to have dinner in the sand.

We’d sit in folding chairs and tuck in while the August sun slid down over the bay, feeling the cooling breeze that hinted at the end of summer. Even though we’d worked together all week, there was still endless conversation and storytelling, punctuated by Andrew’s gentle chuckles while Emily and I thigh-slapped and grabbed each other’s arms, wheezing with laughter: “No, really. REALLY!” Emily and I have each moved on, moved away and come back to MyNorth and this magazine about six times total,

between the two of us. While I was away, she spearheaded a summer cookbook project here that yielded a treasure trove of delights. So when I came across it not long ago, with its dreamy dockside photos and familiar recipes, a wave of nostalgia swept over me. I hadn’t made those blueberry purses in years. Where had they gone? And, more important, where was that girl who bought impractical amounts of seasonal fruit with the hopes of extravagant sharing, watching it transmute into love?

It had a hard go, that let’scook-it-up impulse. Covid knocked the tar out of it, along with huge changes in my life. But life is full of comings and goings, and right now, I feel a skillet cobbler coming on. When life brings you the perfectly ripened peach, stop everything and savor that moment. Cloak it in caramelized sugar and heavy cream and be joyfully impractical— by which I mean you should eat dessert for dinner. Carry it straight to the porch, still warm.

Inhale deeply and share it with everyone you can.

I’m here telling stories of the North again; so is Emily (her story on Bear Lake Motel is featured this month), although full-time she is over at American Spoon Foods creating the beauty of their mouthwatering catalogs which are, no surprise, filled with recipes and clever picnic ideas.

We still canoodle over snacks, sipping Mawby and swiping crackers through cream cheese covered in peach pepper jelly.

May we always carry the spirit we found in those westfacing beach chairs, our full plates balanced on our laps.

There was good food and laughter, and we feasted on it.

inset photo courtesy of Cara McDonald

SEASONAL FRUIT

Cara McDonald, Executive Editor cara@mynorth.com AUGUST 2025

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Harbor Springs Real Estate Opportunity 145 Traverse Street

Experience unparalleled luxury on a private, estate-sized parcel set in the heart of Harbor Springs. This impeccably designed residence is just a short walk from the marina, beaches, and dining. A rare opportunity to enjoy in-town living at its most refined. MLS #476801 $8,500,000

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Graham Real Estate | (231) 526-6251 | grahamre.com | 198 E. Main Street, Harbor Springs, MI 49740

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Up North

local buzz · nostalgic finds · travel inspo

“

Ask Ray to show you some of his favorite pieces in the shop, and watch his eyes light up.

—CARLY SIMPSON

EDITORS’ PICKS: OUR BEST DISCOVERIES

photo by Allison Jarrell Acosta

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A NEW CELEB-FILLED FOOD FEST P. 17

ROAD TRIP FINDS ON US-31 P. 18 AUGUST 2025

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Presents Stonger Together: Your Path to Better Health Starting this August discover how our partnership transforms lives.

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Up North Curiosities

The Dog Days of Summer

EDITORS’ PICKS

The secret discoveries we tell our friends about. this photo courtesy of Interlochen Centers for the Arts // top photo by Asklyn Korienek // right photo by Allison Jarrell Acosta

Tranquil Trails in the Northwoods

On a recent visit to Harbor Springs, my partner, Nathan, and I spent a quiet morning driving along the iconic Tunnel of Trees. This narrow, winding stretch of M-119 is so tranquil, it feels more like a footpath than a road meant for cars.

Among the trees, you’ll find unexpected treasures at every turn. Our journey led us to Thorne Swift Nature Preserve, a 30-acre area protected by the Little Traverse Conservancy that stretches from forest to shoreline. Pulling into the parking lot, you’ll find a visitor center with a handy trail map. Three trails beckon: one perfect for birdwatching, another winding through lowland cedar swamp to the lakefront, and a third leading to a dune platform with sweeping views. The paths mostly follow raised boardwalks, bordered by native blossoms, whispering trees, and the soft soundtrack of birdsong and lake breeze. It’s not a strenuous hike—more of a thoughtful wander. The kind of place to slow your pace and get lost in the serenity of the Northwoods. – Ashlyn Korienek

Each August, I look forward to long days by the lake, sun-ripened stone fruit and watching dogs strut around in ridiculous homemade costumes at the Northport Dog Parade. This will be my fifth summer attending the überwholesome spectacle, and I can’t wait to line up downtown and witness this year’s particular brand of whimsy (the 2025 theme is Bone Appétit). In year’s past, we’ve been treated to punny gems like: A Space Pawdyssey; Alice in Wonderlab, Through the Woofing Glass; Canine Couture; and most recently, Barkum & Bailey’s Flea Ring Circus—complete with a chihuahua peeking out of a popcorn bucket. Grab the kiddos and make a day of it (expect lots of fun activities throughout the afternoon). Saturday, August 9; facebook.com/annualnorthportdogparade.

– Allison Jarrell Acosta

Waxing Rhapsodic

My son loves United Airlines and its theme song, “Rhapsody in Blue,” so much that he’ll play it on repeat some evenings when he can’t sleep. I wake up to hear it floating through the air vents in my house late at night and I don’t know if I’m dreaming or awake. But the news that Lang Lang would be performing Gershwin’s masterpiece at Interlochen on August 2 is a double dream. To have world-class talent like this in our summery backyard is breathtaking. To have Lang Lang’s glorious, exuberant interpretation of one of the most American of compositions is a gift to all of us—that we may see ourselves in the creativity, freedom, energy and optimism Gershwin saw in us as a young country. – Cara McDonald AUGUST 2025

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Up North Events

FORKS UP

by CARLY SIMPSON

Traverse City is pulling out all the corks for a new five-day farm-to-table festival with a star-powered lineup.

photo courtesy of Traverse City Tourism

G

et ready to raise a glass—and your forks—at the inaugural Traverse City Food & Wine this Aug. 20–24. With more than 40 events scheduled in and around the Grand Traverse region, the week is packed with chef panels, James Beard nominees and a few surprises for food TV fans.

On Friday night, Food Network’s Tyler Florence returns to his early-career stomping grounds at Grand Traverse Resort and Spa for a grilling demo and wine-paired dinner, while Antoni Porowski of “Queer Eye” fame shares stories and culinary insights during a special edition of the National Writers Series. Porowski is a New York Times bestselling author for his cookbook, Let’s Do Dinner, and host of the National Geographic television series “No Taste Like Home.” On Saturday, The National Writers Series also welcomes an exclusive panel of chefs from several culinary shows—“Top Chef,” “Iron Chef,” “Chopped”—for a candid glimpse into the world of competitive cooking from people who’ve lived it.

The main event, The Grand Tasting on Saturday, Aug. 23, features a rotation of conversations with celebrity chefs, cooking demonstrations and tasting tips. Attendees can also sample from more than 100 locally produced wines and craft drinks alongside small plates from local restaurateurs and guest chefs, all showcasing the region’s agricultural bounty.

For the full schedule and tickets, visit traversecityfoodandwine.com.

FIELD - TO - TABLE EVENTS Discover more ways to connect with food and community throughout the year at MyNorth.com/Events.

SUNDAY BRUNCH AT BLACK STAR FARMS AUG. 3

CRUSHED TOMATO CANNING CLASS WITH DOC SHAW AUG. 7

MOVIE NIGHTS AT LAVENDER HILL FARM AUG. 8

IDYLL FARMS TOUR & GOAT CHEESE TASTING AUG. 14

MITCHELL STATE PARK FLY FISHING CLINIC AUG. 24

AUGUST 2025

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Up North Travel

THE ROAD TO EVERYWHERE

by CARLY SIMPSON

A Traverse City–to-Charlevoix drive meant for dilly-dallying along one of Michigan’s most beautiful coastlines.

U

Fisherman’s Island State Park

Farmer White’s—you should bring a cooler for her latticetopped pies.

Ten minutes farther and you’ll see a sign for Natalie’s Petals at Quarterline Road. Turn right and wander through her U-Cut garden or browse pre-made bouquets in the vintage truck-turned-flower stand. Find fancy tulips, fluffy peonies and dinner plate dahlias throughout the season, tucked into cute mason jars tied off with twine so you can take ’em on the road with you.

Back in the car, it’s time to head to Bier Art Gallery—a must-stop every time you’re in this neck of the woods. Set in a former one-room schoolhouse, the gallery is owned by artists Ray and Tami Bier. Their son, Tyler Bier, owns Bier’s Inwood Brewery next door—the white Victorian house, with views of the lake, was Tyler’s childhood home. Within

photos by Allison Jarrell Acosta

s-31 traces the western shore of Michigan, taking road trippers from southern gems like Holland and Grand Haven north to Ludington, Traverse City and Charlevoix before hooking over to Mackinaw City and The Bridge. It swoops past apple and cherry orchards, saunters past farm stands ripe with pie and jam, snakes into dense woods and opens up to big-water views. Along the way, there are art galleries to get lost in, scenic parks ready for a picnic and quiet dirt roads just off the beaten path waiting for you to say, “Let’s pull over.”

For a relaxed day trip, explore the 50-mile stretch from Traverse City to Charlevoix. The hour-drive leaves plenty of time for a few planned, and unplanned, pit stops.

Let’s start with coffee. In August, the window-side bar seats at Water Bearer Coffee are dreamy; a breeze coming in off nearby Grand Traverse Bay and a buzzy patio right outside. My go-to order is the Metro: A shot of espresso poured over sparkling water and ice and finished with a splash of cream. Say yes to cardamom syrup then hit the road.

Cruising north, the 450-acre Maple Bay Natural Area hugs both sides of US-31 and is known for the thousands of sunflowers planted along the highway. Blooms peak in early to mid-August, turning this crook in the road into a swaying sea of yellow. (Note, this varies from year to year as the farmers occasionally rotate crops.) But it’s always worth stopping for a hike on the 1.75-mile trail system with multiple access points to a sandy arc of shoreline on Lake Michigan.

Post-hike, you’ll soon pass a slew of brake-worthy farm stands along both sides of US-31: Altonen Orchards, Farmer White’s, Guntzviller’s Berry and Vegetable Farm, Interwater Farms. Get a quart of fresh peaches at Altonen and see what Mary’s been baking down the way at 18 T R A V E R S E N O R T H E R N M I C H I G A N

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Natalie’s Petals

Bier Art Gallery

Leto's Osteria

the bright red schoolhouse, the works of more than 100 artists fill the walls, shelves, nooks. Let your eyes wander to a cast bronze and aluminum cowboy riding a trout by Elk Rapids’ Scott Nelles; textured stacks of original landscape paintings by Heiner Hertling, each reasonably priced at $90; a watercolor woodpecker perched on cattails by Interlochen’s Marie Lamothe. There are glasswork, pottery, sculptures, wood carvings, jewelry—a truly incredible collection made possible by the Bier’s four decades of relationships in the arts world. Ask Ray to show you some his favorite pieces in the shop, including gallery assistant Asia Rothenberger’s whimsical copper plate etching “Pals Running,” and watch his eyes light up.

The gallery and brewery are tucked on Ferry Road, a dirt lane you should meander farther down until you reach

Folklor Wine & Cider. The tasting room sits on a 52-acre farm owned by Derrick Vogel and Izabela Babinska. The duo produces all their wines and ciders on site—for your cooler, nab a bottle of the 2024 Day Trip, a Zweigelt rosé that tastes like June strawberries and sunshine.

Every good road trip ends with a bite. Take your farmstand goodies to Fisherman’s Island State Park and picnic in the day-use area. (Or you can set up camp by the lake; site No. 9 is particularly alluring, smack dab on the water.)

If outdoorsy isn’t your vibe, drive to downtown Charlevoix, 10 minutes from the gallery, and look for the sign to Van Pelt Alley where you’ll find Cantina Tacos, The Salad Fork and Blondies Coffee.

Refueled, make your way back to TC, or carry on your merry way to everywhere … or nowhere in particular.

AUGUST 2025

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AT BLUSTONE VINEYARDS, EVERY VISIT IS MORE THAN A TASTING — IT'S A STORY YOU’LL TELL AGAIN AND AGAIN. Blustone Vineyards has been named Red Hot Best winery five years running — offering an experience that goes beyond the wine. Perched on a hill with Napa Valley–worthy views, our tasting room invites you to savor the true spirit of Leelanau, one unforgettable glass at a time.

Join us this summer and discover why guests rave:

"The wine is world-class, the views are breathtaking, and the hospitality is unmatched."

Reserve your tasting experience today at blustonevineyards.com

Uniquely Made. Undeniably Leelanau.

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SPONSORED CONTENT

Wine Club Confidential 5 ways to make the most of your membership.

by MEAGAN FRANCIS

W

ine club memberships can be an invitation into a community, an education in flavor and a front-row seat to winemaking’s seasonal rhythms. Whether you’re a local or a once-in-in-while visitor, a serious collector or a casual sipper, approaching your membership with intention can transform it into something truly special.

Here’s how to make the most of yours: KEEP IT SIMPLE—AND PERSONAL

“We consciously decided to make the BlustoneClub simple,” says Matt Knighton, co-owner of Blustone Vineyards in Lake Leelanau. In addition to 20 percent off all wines, free tastings and access to new or limited-release wines, the real magic, Knighton says, is in the relationships. “The Club is all about connecting people who enjoy great wine, great conversation and a sense of belonging. We aim to create a VIP experience for every member.”

That personalized approach is backed by a full-time club manager who gets to know each member individually. “We keep notes on preferences, requests and feedback so we can shape the experience for each person. We want it to be as close to perfect as possible.”

photo courtesy of Blustone Vineyard

USE YOUR PERKS

Most wine clubs offer benefits beyond regular shipments.

Think discounted purchases, complimentary tastings, exclusive events and sometimes even behind-the-scenes access to the vineyard and winemaking process.

“If you’re not using your benefits, you’re missing out,” Knighton says. “Events are where we really deliver those one-of-a-kind experiences that members love—and yes, they sell out quickly.”

Signature gatherings for BlustoneClub members include curated wine dinners with top Northern Michigan chefs— like those from The Riverside Inn in Leland—and handson opportunities like the annual Harvest Experience, where members join the vineyard crew to pick grapes and sample past vintages from Blustone’s library. “It’s a chance to really learn from our winemaker and vineyard manager, while experiencing the winery in action.”

CUSTOMIZE YOUR SHIPMENTS

Some clubs let members customize the wine in their shipments, creating an even more bespoke experience. Whether you want a reserve bubbly for an upcoming anniversary or you’re all about big reds year-round, customization allows you to get the wine you want, when you want it.

Many clubs also use member feedback to adjust future shipments. “For example, our members told us how much they missed our cabernet franc rosé from a few years ago,” Knighton says. “Because of that feedback, we brought it back and are releasing it later this year.”

STAY CONNECTED

Turning on email or text notifications might seem like a minor tactic, but it can yield big results.

“We use text and email to keep members in the loop,” Knighton explains. “Some of our exclusive offers are only available for 24 hours and can be claimed by replying to a text with just one word.” And if you’re more into old-fashioned communication, the BlustoneClub manager is always just a phone call away.

DON’T LET DISTANCE HOLD YOU BACK

Even if you live several hours—or states!—away, your club membership can still pay off.

“One of the perks we added recently is flat-rate shipping of $10 to $15 on orders of four bottles or more,” says Knighton. “Combine that with the 20 percent discount, and it’s a really easy way to keep your cellar stocked, wherever you are.”

Wine clubs offer curated access to small-lot, often hard-to-find wines—but the real value lies in the experience. By exploring your perks, customizing your shipments, staying connected and building relationships with the team behind the bottle, you turn your membership into more than a subscription—it becomes a lifestyle.

“The BlustoneClub has become one of the cornerstones of our business,” says Knighton. “It’s now several thousand members strong and made up of people who really love what we do. They’re not just customers; they’re part of the Blustone family.”

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Traverse Magazine AI Ad v3.pdf

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Toast, savor, and stay a little longer Locally Locally inspired inspired rooftop rooftop dining dining on on East East Bay Bay Breakfast and dinner daily, weekend brunch Breakfast and dinner daily, weekend brunch Led by Executive Chef Luke Hill Led by Executive Chef Luke Hill 2227 US 31 North, Traverse City, Michigan 2227 US 31 North, Traverse City, Michigan www.TheAlexandraInn.com/Blush | (231) 938-6468 www.TheAlexandraInn.com/Blush | (231) 938-6468

Lindsey Mak Photography Lindsey Mak Photography

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SPONSORED CONTENT

Telling a Culinary Story With a focus on transparency, heritage and hands-on experience, local chefs are turning meals into meaningful connections between people, place and plate.

by MEAGAN FRANCIS

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orthern Michigan is well known for its vibrant food scene, fueled by fresh, sustainably sourced ingredients and a deep-rooted agricultural heritage. But while many visitors come for a delicious meal, a growing—and increasingly savvy—number are seeking something deeper: a meaningful connection with their food. In response, a new wave of chefs, farmers and restaurateurs are crafting experiences that highlight not only flavor, but transparency, sustainability and place.

“It’s about closing the loop,” says Luke Hill, executive chef at Blush: Rooftop Terrace at the Alexandra Inn in Traverse City. “People want to be part of the process…to see where their food comes from, to know who prepared it.”

A seasoned outdoorsman who regularly hunts and fishes in Keweenaw Bay, Hill has spent his career at fine dining establishments including the Yellowstone Club in Big Sky, Montana. Now at the helm of Blush, he brings a distinctly Northern sensibility to the table—grounded in authenticity, respect for the land and a deep appreciation for the stories behind each ingredient.

AUTHENTICITY BEYOND THE FARM

Blush’s wild rice pilaf dish starts with manoomin, the traditional hand-harvested wild rice of Indigenous communities.

Hill first spotted signs for it during his drive from Montana to Michigan. “You see ‘wild rice for sale’ signs all through the U.P.,” he says. “I knew I wanted to work with it—there’s so much heritage there.” Unlike cultivated versions, true manoomin is a wild aquatic grass, and its inclusion is both a nod to regional culinary traditions and a celebration of sustainable sourcing. “There’s something powerful about food that’s harvested in a traditional way,” Hill adds. “It connects you to the land and the people who’ve stewarded it.”

photo by Kristina Sobel

STORYTELLING IN THE SMALL THINGS

At Blush, even often-overlooked ingredients reflect local sourcing. Maple sugar replaces refined cane sugar, and house-made vanilla extract is infused with vodka from Mammoth Distilling, made with rye grown nearby on South Manitou Island. These choices reinforce a larger ethos: that every element of a dish offers an opportunity to tell a story and honor the region.

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A DEEPLY ROOTED SENSE OF PLACE

Signature dishes like Cedar Plank Salmon aren’t just about flavor; they’re an experience. The salmon is roasted on custom-branded cedar planks crafted in-house by the owners, with the Alexandra Inn’s “A” logo revealed when sliced. It’s a subtle yet elegant way to reinforce the restaurant’s commitment to place-based luxury.

EXTENDING CONNECTION BEYOND THE TABLE

For Hill, true farm-to-table dining means creating a culture of connection—not just for chefs, but for guests as well.

Blush offers printed guides that highlight the farms and producers featured on the menu and encourages diners to visit local markets to meet the people behind their food.

“It’s not just about farm-to-table as a restaurant concept anymore,” Hill says. “It’s about empowering people to find these ingredients themselves, to cook with them at home and to realize it can be healthier and even more affordable than the grocery store.”

Blush is also developing a “catch and cook” experience with a local charter service, where guests would have the chance to fish in Grand Traverse Bay and have their catch prepared that same day by the kitchen. “The idea is that guests could see where their food comes from—literally— and enjoy it right here, looking out over the water where they caught it,” says Hill.

For chefs like Hill, connecting diners with their food isn’t a fleeting trend: it’s a way of life. “Every element on the plate tells a story,” says Hill. And the more people understand that story, the more meaningful—and memorable—the meal becomes.

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WELCOME, ALL

BY Emily Betz Tyra

PHOTOS BY Tim Hussey

Driving down a dream to revive a 1962 roadside motel, Marta Turnbull’s radiant free spirit and purposeful inclusivity is along for the ride—quickly elevating this quiet lake town to destination status.

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OASIS ENERGY

is high when guests pull up to Motel Bear Lake this afternoon. The cedar shrubs along the entrance are manicured into plump Dr. Suess-like orbs. Tidy rows of classic webbed lawn chairs invite relaxation after the drive. At the outdoor pool, the water floats are freshly inflated, and in a moment, motel owner Marta Turnbull will roll out a curated “library” of breezy kaftans, available to guests for their lounging delight.

In the two years since Turnbull bought the former Bella Vista Inn property and began rehabbing it, there’s been a magnetic pull to this retro motel in the small town of Bear Lake, just across the road from the shimmering, sandy-bottomed lake by the same name.

Motel Bear Lake’s motto is simply “A Nice Place to Stay.” For Turnbull, that means something intentionally open-armed and inclusive.

“Our job is caring for all the humans in and around the motel in an unmatched way,” she says.

“We are the destination for the pet owners, solo female travelers, the queer community, artists, military families and veterans, and all Americanaloving good humans.”

The motel is a mix of kitschy midcentury vibes and Turnbull’s personal style—progressive yet fun-loving, and effortlessly genuine. She has an easy, candid manner with guests and staff, and both the space and the brand are “an extension of me,” she says. “It’s the complete freedom of owning your own business.” Turnbull grew up in Northern Michigan before diving into her 15-year career with tech

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and e-commerce companies around the world.

Now in her mid-30s, T  urnbull finds herself starring in a real-life version of the television hit “Schitt’s Creek”, nudging the once-neglected motel into the spotlight.

An all-women team makes up the brains and the brawn behind the reinvention—with Turnbull’s longtime friend Kendall McIntyre as operations manager and Ella Smith as head of housekeeping. They tackle many repairs themselves, handle all laundry in-house thanks to a Venture North grant for new equipment, and use industry-leading reservations software to power communications with guests and each other.

Turnbull first discovered her natural inclination toward hospitality after a major life event necessitated her renting out her spare bedroom in 2012, on the still-new Airbnb platform. More vacation properties followed, and she hired McIntyre to help manage them. But as a Traverse City local

Motel Bear Lake’s pristine swimming pool is an iconic spot to lounge or take a post-exploring dip; Owner Marta Turnbull honors the origins of the 1962 motel with vintagestyle swag; Each of the 20 rooms is appointed with a mix of new creature comforts and Turnbull’s estate sale finds.

“OUR JOB IS CARING FOR ALL THE HUMANS IN AND AROUND THE MOTEL IN AN UNMATCHED WAY.” AUGUST 2025

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with her strong sense of social justice, she was grappling with “the cognitive dissonance of creating competition for local housing,” so she expanded her business to include a mix of vacation rentals, long-term and affordable housing.

“Since that moment I rented out my spare bedroom, I knew I wanted to do it at scale,” Turnbull says. She visualized a collection of cute vintage cottages or, perhaps—someday—an old-school motel in an Up North town.

But it couldn’t be just any town.

It had to be Bear Lake—a generationally tight-knit village of 300 year-round residents nestled on its own 7,543-acre inland lake. The paternal side of her family were early settlers and farmers here—going back six generations.

Her maternal side relocated from Chicago to nearby Manistee in the mid-1960s, when her grandfather purchased Manistee Drop Forge.

He was a first-generation immigrant from Poland, fought on the beaches of Normandy, and returned to have a family and live the American dream. Both of her parents went to high school in Bear Lake, and Turnbull spent summers waterskiing and swimming at her grandparents’ place, which is still in the family.

Even as an adult, she can instantly center herself by jumping off the end of the dock into those baptismal waters of Bear Lake.

“Bear Lake is my happy place. My heart lives here,” she says.

So, in the summer of 2022, Turnbull stopped by the Bella Vista Inn on a whim to scope it out, meet the owners and get a quick tour. Before leaving, she made an offer to purchase the not-forsale motel. When the Bella Vista Inn suddenly went on the market in early spring of 2023, she took her shot, applying for loans à la minute and—after a roller coaster of maybes and misses—securing loan approval from West Shore Bank in the nick of time to close on the motel.

That was in mid-May, with summer tourist traffic beating at a palpable pulse.

She recalls those first roll-up-your-sleeves days with reverence. “It was all hands on deck, seven days a week, asking favors from friends and family … but we knew that we had to be open for summer or the business wouldn’t survive.”

They welcomed their first guests Memorial Day weekend 2023, while work continued apace: ripping out carpeting, painting walls, editing decades of décor and rehabbing the pool. Sheer elbow grease restored the original bathrooms and their perfect midcentury sea-mist green tile to their current pristine gleam. The former lobby is now an intimate community space, furnished as a retro lounge. Turnbull delights in decorating with thrifted finds, period-appropriate furniture and vintage photographs, including ones of a dear

Motel Bear Lake hosts community events, including a cannabis-friendly “Puff and Paints” as well as Art & Craft weekend retreats; Mural by Son Visual, ArtPrize Winner and curator of Pleasant Peninsula, a public art and environmental activism festival in Grand Rapids; Turnbull holds a breezy kaftan from her curated guest selection; The turntable in the lounge plays a steady rotation of ’60s and ’70s vinyl.

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Turnbull’s Travel Tips Head across the street for a pickleball game at the community courts, then wander to Pierport Beach on Lake Michigan.

Check out Iron Fish Distillery, Northern Naturals Cider and the area farmstands.

“I SEE MANISTEE COUNTY AT LARGE NAVIGATING THIS WITH GRACE AND SUCCESS—BEAR LAKE’S TIME IS

friend’s 1960s waterski team. The process is akin to appointing “my own Barbie Dream House,” she laughs.

A big part of their early success has been managing guests’ expectations while letting people in on the story of the revival journey—even with upgrades like white noise machines, organic toiletries and smart TVs, it’s still a roadside motel with all the quirk that comes with it. “It was a dance.

I really only started breathing at year one-anda-half,” she says.

Turnbull credits McIntyre for her strong partnership—“my operations ride or die.” McIntyre covers the day-to-day, managing a steady rotation of contractors and troubling-shooting 60 years’ worth of property maintenance. Turnbull deals in numbers and nurtures her brand credo of inclusiveness and delighting guests. She recognizes the power of even small gestures of welcome, linking directly to the feeling she had going to Grandma’s house as a kid. (Turnbull’s darling “Going to Grandma’s” suitcase is on display with other vintage cases in the lounge.) She offers an open-door guest amenities closet, with crisply folded linens and towels, and sleep-over essentials like yoga mats, art supplies and classic games. Oh, and Dolly Parton’s memoir.

And as for the coveted kaftan library, “They are all thrifted,” says Turnbull. “May the Women’s Resource Center Thrift Shop forever find favor with us.”

Now with the to-do list whittled down to a few items, Turnbull is celebrating … with a little power washing. She’s prepping the brick on the backside of the motel for an ongoing mural installation. Early this summer, Manistee County Tourism, Motel Bear Lake and The Begonia Charitable Foundation came together to support the creation of two new murals on the wall. Artist Jamie John’s piece spotlights the region’s Anishinaabe history, and Traverse City artist Em Randall (originally from Bear Lake) created an ode to

NOW.”

Fill your water bottle at Old Facefull, an artesian spring a few minutes from the motel on Lake Michigan. the fierce friendships she had in her younger days, specifically at the motel where she worked as a second job with her best friend. The latest murals join others by Michigan-based artists, including femme and unrepresented artists. The hope is “to fill the whole thing in like an arm-sleeve,” Turnbull says with a glint in her eye.

The mural wall has become a roadside attraction of sorts, a place to soak in art, take photos, maybe stay to take a dip in the lake, shop or enjoy a meal.

It is all part of Turnbull’s plan to infuse energy and tourist dollars into the Bear Lake community.

“I am learning every day how important the motel is to the local economy. Since the last of the manufacturing left Manistee County, the town has been in decline, and tourism is the only thing bringing money here,” she says. “I used to think, someone should do something to boost the local economy … something like what Short’s Brewery did for Bellaire. Then I realized, I should do that.”

It’s a delicate load balance, she says, allocating resources to preserve the parts that keep it beautiful and small-town, while creating an economy that supports small business growth. She adds, “I see Manistee County at large navigating this with grace and success—Bear Lake’s time is now.”

For her part, Motel Bear Lake closed out 2024 with 2,308 bookings. “I knew I wanted this queer, artistic, underserved market, but I didn’t know how much support we would have, and together we have lifted up our community,” she says. “I want to impeccably host our guests, and that means making everyone feel welcome. It’s about creating a space where all people can make memories.

“We like to say that people work all year and what they will remember from this year, is their one vacation,” she says. “It’s the most important thing: Taking care of people.”

Emily Betz Tyra began her writing career as an intern at Traverse Northern Michigan 27 summers ago. She lives in the woods of Lake Ann. Tim Hussey is art director of Traverse Northern Michigan and enjoys traveling the region to shoot his favorite stories.

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WILD SHORES Wide horizons.

Sweeping shorelines.

Trails for miles.

These are our favorite waterfront hikes.

YOU DON’T HAVE TO GO FAR to run into water in Northern Michigan. By most estimates, you’re about five minutes away from a lake, stream or river at any given time. Often, even closer.

With that closeness comes familiarity, and we all know what that can breed.

It stands to reason that eventually, especially for those of us who call this water wonderland home, we might find ourselves taking our favorite lake view or backyard burbling creek for granted.

So, why not try a different vantage?

There’s something inexplicably eye-opening about a hike that wends along a lake, or a forested path that leads to open water and an endless stretch of beach. They invite us to slow down—to connect with our senses, and with the native flora and fauna that share this home with us. To learn more about what makes this place so special. To breathe it in.

Here, we’ve gathered six hikes that do just that. Some are accessible to all, others a bit more challenging, but they share a common thread: stunning, only-in-Michigan waterfront views that simply can’t be beat.

by Allison Jarrell Acosta photos by Dave Weidner

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MAPLE BAY NATURAL AREA WILLIAMSBURG, GRAND TRAVERSE COUNTY Maple bay is hard to miss in the height of summer.

By August, golden sunflowers bloom in clusters along both sides of U.S. 31 in Williamsburg, marking the entrance to this 452-acre Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy preserve. Maple Bay Natural Area offers quiet, panoramic views of East Grand Traverse Bay, and its 1.75 miles of forested trails and sweeping shoreline invite visitors to hike, swim, birdwatch or rock hunt (keep your eyes peeled for Petoskeys).

More than a mile of new trail was added to the property in 2023, including the Joe and Kathy Magliochetti Trail, which links Maple Bay Farm with the broader trail system. Trails stretch south toward the bay and north to Petobego Pond—be prepared for a steep descent on the path leading to the beach.

After your hike, drive north into Elk Rapids for a waterfront meal at the Riverwalk Grill & Taproom, or grab a cocktail and unwind at Ethanology.

NORDHOUSE DUNES WILDERNESS AREA FREE SOIL, MASON COUNTY About half an hour south of Manistee along the Lake Michigan coast lies Nordhouse Dunes, a 3,500-acre wilderness area that’s part of the HuronManistee National Forest. This hardwood-forested dunescape has 13 miles of ethereal trails, from lush dirt pathways to boardwalks that lead to serene open-water views and nearly four miles of Lake Michigan shoreline.

This wilderness area is a truly wild place—classified as an old-growth forest, you’ll find maple, beech and hemlock interspersed with oak and pine, as well as streams, small inland lakes and some of the largest swaths of freshwater interdunal wetlands in the world. Endangered species like the piping plover and Pitcher’s thistle call this place home, and you could even spot a bear or a porcupine among the wildlife here.

TIP: Officials recommend using the Lake Michigan

Rec Area trailhead during peak times (60 parking spaces), as parking at the Nurnberg Road trailhead can be very limited on summer weekends (24 spaces). There’s a $5 per day or $15 per week fee at either trailhead.

It would be easy to spend a weekend camping and hiking here, so you might as well head south to Ludington State Park for an added adventure (much of the park reopens on July 1). Trek along 21 miles of trails, including a two-mile sandy walk to Big Sable Point Lighthouse. Or rent a kayak and explore the canoe pathway on Hamlin Lake. Then grab a treat at one of the Hamlin Lake Beach concessions stands and take in the sunset atop a dune.

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RUSSELL AND MIRIAM GRINNELL MEMORIAL NATURE SANCTUARY AT BARE BLUFF This is, by far, the most challenging of the hikes in this roundup—but with the proper prep and plenty of caution, the views of Lake Superior are more than worth the trek.

Situated along the southern shore of the Keweenaw Peninsula, this Michigan Nature Association sanctuary is home to geological features like exposed cliffs, bluffs and rocks, as well as a lush, forested landscape that supports an array of wildlife (raptors enjoy the warm air drafts that the bluffs provide during migration season).

But the star of this nature sanctuary is Bare Bluff, a prominent 588-foot-tall rock formation with striking 180-degree views of Manitou Island, Point Isabelle and Bete Grise. Accessing these views is considered “difficult and dangerous”—to reach the lower and upper levels of the rocky lookout, hikers must make a 300-foot ascent. And in total, the four-mile loop trail along the bluff can take about two hours to hike with a 760-foot elevation gain. Make sure to wear the proper gear, take your time and soak in the scenery once you reach the top.

NOTE: MNA has reported that a third-party

gate has been installed along the sanctuary’s access road. Visitors should plan on hiking an additional mile to access the trailhead.

photo by Aaron Peterson

BETE GRISE, KEWEENAW COUNTY

BOARDMAN LAKE LOOP TRAIL TRAVERSE CITY, GRAND TRAVERSE COUNTY If you need a winding path with extra versatility, head to the Boardman. This four-mile loop trail hugs Boardman Lake near downtown Traverse City, taking walkers and cyclists on a journey through the city’s different facets: to the north, an urban setting with commercial access; along the east side, a heavily wooded path that transitions between pavement, gravel and boardwalk; on the south end, two bridges crossing the Boardman/Ottaway River and a boardwalk over the Boardman Lake Cover; and to the west, lookout piers, fishing decks and kayak launches.

The lake loop is truly an ecosystem of its own—you’ll find runners and cyclists cruising through, maybe on their way to pick up groceries at Oryana’s 10th Street shop. Dogwalkers meandering through the butterfly garden by the library.

Couples heading to an al fresco pizza at The Filling Station’s patio. Birdwatchers and kayak launchers gathering at Medalie Park.

If it seems overwhelming, start by downloading a map and checking parking options, trail access, restrooms, etc. at traversetrails.org.

TIP: For even more riverside hiking, drive south to the Boardman Valley Nature

Preserve or the Boardman River Nature Center, where you’ll find miles of trail tucked within forests, swampland and marshland. Keep an eye out for beaver, otter, mink and fox by the river.

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EMPIRE BLUFF TRAIL SLEEPING BEAR DUNES NATIONAL LAKESHORE, BENZIE COUNTY Perhaps one of the most surreal views in Northern Michigan, this bluff-side trail with a picturesque payoff is bucket-list worthy. The moderate, 1.5-mile round trip hike wanders through hilly terrain and beech-maple forest, open fields and dunes, ending at a 400-foot-high bluff overlooking Lake Michigan—and for a moment, you’ll probably forget you’re in the Midwest. Set aside some time for a picnic lunch or a philosophical ponder, or bring a flashlight and hike around dusk to catch a sunset view that is unbeatable.

GOOD TO KNOW: There are a few hill climbs along the way and some stairs built into the trail, but the

ascent is well worth it (and there are benches along the way if you need a quick break!).

ALSO WORTH NOTING: The trail ends at the wooden boardwalk; do not at attempt tempt to descend the bluff.

Whether you’re packing a picnic or fueling up post-hike, you can’t go wrong driving into the quaint village of Empire for a stacked sammie at Shipwreck Café, or homemade gelato from Grocer’s Daughter Chocolate Shop.

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INSPIRATION POINT ARCADIA, BENZIE COUNTY This perch atop a dramatic coastal dunescape lives up to its name. Inspiration Point, also called Arcadia Overlook, is a quick hike nestled right off M-22—road trippers coming from the charming burg of Arcadia will likely notice their ears pop as they drive about 370 feet up to the overlook parking lot. From there, you’re gaining another 80 feet of elevation as you ascend 120 steps to the top viewing platform. On a clear blue-sky day, you’ll be treated to panoramic Lake Michigan views, including the towns of Arcadia, Onekama and Manistee.

TIP : Bring quarters for the viewing platform telescope, which you can use to spot landmarks like the Arcadia Channel and the Frankfort Lighthouse—plus, a portion of the proceeds goes to the Arcadia Lions Club for community programs. A win-win.

Take a moment to really soak in this iconic Up North

view, then consider heading back south toward Arcadia to visit the Arcadia Marsh Nature Preserve (just a quick three-minute drive). This 313-acre Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy preserve is home to a universally accessible 0.75-mile-long boardwalk that floats over marshy waters. This Great Lakes Coastal Marsh is a rare and declining habitat, and it’s one of only 15 or so remaining coastal marshes along Lake Michigan’s Lower Peninsula shoreline. Expect top-notch birdwatching year-round, and be sure to grab a snack—i.e. cheese curds and a Northwoods soda—at the Ketch 22 Kafe food truck, just north of the marsh trailhead.

Allison Jarrell Acosta is a hiker, baker, photographer, forager and former editor at Traverse Northern Michigan.

She works for the Leelanau Conservancy.

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Classics from the Cottage Cookbook

by Emily Betz Tyra

Time-tested, staff-loved recipes perfect for August’s farm-to-table bounty.

A

t the cottage, the days ebb and flow around mealtimes. Go fishing at daybreak and fry up what you caught for breakfast. Slip in a pre-supper swim, then dine on the dock with wet hair and bare feet dangling in the lake. These summery recipes are handpicked for making and enjoying at your leisure. Cool off with some watermelon sorbet after a morning at the beach. Throw some Vernors chicken on the grill in the afternoon. Whip up some blueberry purses for dessert when the moths are hitting the screens and you’re all snug inside.

We’ve long loved these “best-of ” recipes, which we eventually shared in The Cottage Cookbook. They still show up at our potlucks to this day. Cook them for people you love. Make them for the unexpected cottage guests who remind you to keep summer spontaneous and free. Use them again and again.

They’ll make your life simple and make everyone who enters through your screen door feel welcomed and celebrated.

When you’re Up North, enjoy the lake, the laid-back days, good company and, always, good food.

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Photos by Todd Zawistowski and Brian Confer

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CB’S Vernors Chicken Grayling’s Christian Betz—part griller, part chemist, 100 percent perfectionist— loves Vernors ginger ale so much that one spring day he tried marinating some chicken legs in it before throwing them on the grill. The alchemy worked: the sugar in the pop caramelized the skin to a chestnut-hued crackle, and the succulent interior meat was imbued with the subtle kick of a Michigan original.

4 whole chicken legs (aka chicken quarters), skin on 2 cans of regular Vernors 2–3 Tablespoons olive oil or vegetable oil 2 cloves fresh garlic, minced 2 teaspoons salt Couple good shakes good-quality paprika Cayenne pepper mixed with salt, to taste

Rinse chicken legs and pat dry. In a nonreactive bowl mix remaining ingredients except cayenne pepper mixed with salt. Add chicken legs and marinate 6 hours to no longer than overnight.

Place chicken pelvis side down on a medium grill (hot enough when you can’t hold your hand 2 inches over the flame for more than 6 seconds). Once chicken is on the grill, sprinkle the skin with a little cayenne-salt mix. Cook chicken pelvis side down for about 40 minutes, covered. Leave it be, but check frequently for flare-ups. Bottom skin will burn, but that’s okay. Flip, cook another 10 minutes or so or until done through, and the sugar in the marinade caramelizes to make the skin a rich brown.

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Blueberry-Blackberry Purses Using an old cooking magazine recipe for inspiration, these were born for a beach-night potluck after a day picking fresh blueberries. Warning: They’ll fill the kitchen with a heavenly lemon-vanilla-berry scent. ½ cup blackberry preserves 2 Tablespoons cornstarch 2 Tablespoons light brown sugar ¼ teaspoon grated lemon zest ½ cup fresh blueberries ½ cup fresh blackberries ½ teaspoon vanilla extract 2 sheets frozen puff pastry, thawed 1 egg, beaten with 2 teaspoons water 3 Tablespoons sugar

Watermelon Sorbet Easy, breezy, a little (teensy bit) boozy, this refreshing sorbet is a pretty pink showstopper.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a small mixing bowl, stir together the blackberry preserves, cornstarch, brown sugar, and lemon zest. Fold in the fresh berries and vanilla. Lightly flour a work surface. Unroll the puff pastry into 12-by-12-inch squares. Cut each sheet into quarters. Lay a pastry square on floured work surface. Place 2 heaping tablespoons of berry filling in the center. Brush the edges of the pastry with egg wash and fold up all four corners to meet to form a “purse.” Press edges together to seal. Transfer to a cookie sheet. Repeat with remaining ingredients. Brush purses with the egg wash and sprinkle with sugar.

Bake until golden, about 25 minutes. Serves 8.

1 small watermelon (big enough for 4 or 5 cups of melon) ½ cup light corn syrup ½ cup sugar 2 Tablespoons fresh lime or lemon juice Zest of one lime 2 Tablespoons grenadine or cherry vodka Remove seeds and rind from melon. Put half the fruit and its juice into a blender with the corn syrup. Process until smooth. Repeat with remaining fruit and sugar. Pour fruit mixture into large bowl. Add lime or lemon juice, lime zest and grenadine or cherry vodka to fruit mixture. Pour into shallow container, cover, and place in the freezer. When mixture is semi-solid, stir thoroughly with a fork and repeat every 15 minutes to prevent sorbet from freezing solid.

Ready to serve in about two hours. Serves 6 to 8.

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Chili Garlic String Beans A spicy, salty upgrade to plain ol’ beans— and easy side when you’ve got a crowd to feed.

1½ pounds fresh string beans, a mix of green, yellow and purple 13 cup chili garlic sauce (try Lee Kum Kee brand) 13 cup soy sauce (preferably tamari soy sauce) 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

Bring a few inches of water to a boil in large saucepan.

While waiting for the water to boil, trim ends off green beans. Place beans in a metal colander or steamer basket.

Place colander over the boiling water and cover with a lid, or place steamer basket in steamer and cover. Steam beans for 2 to 4 minutes, or until crisp-tender.

Meanwhile, mix together chili garlic sauce, soy sauce and sesame oil. Toss sauce with steamed beans in a bowl and serve hot or at room temperature. Serves 12.

Note: Purple beans will begin to green as they cook.

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Zucchini Fritters Starring fresh-grated zucchini and the indulgent additions of walnuts and feta, these little pancakes taste green like the garden and have a nice golden crunch. Zucchini fritters are best when crispy right from the pan, so send them out to the table as they’re done or keep the first batch warm in the oven as you pan-fry up the next.

3 medium zucchini, grated with the skin on Salt 3 eggs ¾ cup flour 2 Tablespoons fresh thyme, chopped 2 Tablespoons fresh tarragon, chopped 2 Tablespoons chopped fresh dill 3 green onions, chopped 1 3 cup crumbled feta 1 3 cup chopped walnuts Vegetable or extra-virgin olive oil for cooking Plain yogurt to accompany

Sprinkle the grated zucchini with about 1 teaspoon of salt and let sit in a colander in the sink for about 5 minutes. Remove the excess moisture from the zucchini by squeezing the liquid out with paper towels. Whisk eggs in a large bowl; add the zucchini, flour, thyme, tarragon, dill and green onions. Mix to combine. Fold in the feta and walnuts.

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Cook fritters in two batches.

Drop six mounds of batter (2 tablespoons each) into the skillet. Flatten slightly. Cook, turning once, until browned, 4 to 6 minutes on each side.

Transfer to a plate and sprinkle with salt. Repeat with remaining batter.

Serve immediately, with plain yogurt on the side. Mix some additional herbs in the yogurt if desired. Serves 6 to 12, depending on portion size.

Grilled Peaches on Vanilla Ice Cream Even dessert is better on the grill. Bonus: No need for a hot oven to heat up the kitchen. Oh, and don’t skip the almond extract, which makes a naturally harmonious flavor pairing.

12 ripe medium peaches ½ teaspoon almond extract ¾ cup dark brown sugar 2 half-gallon containers vanilla ice cream Cut the peaches in half and remove the pits. Toss the halves in a bowl with the almond extract and brown sugar. Prepare grill to medium-high heat.

Grill peaches skin side down until skin is slightly charred, about 3 minutes.

Turn and grill on the other side until you get nice grill marks, about 1 minute. Serve grilled peaches with vanilla ice cream. Serves 12.

Emily Betz Tyra began her writing career as an intern at Traverse Northern Michigan 27 summers ago. She lives in the woods of Lake Ann. AUGUST 2025

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northern home & cottage FOR THE WAY YOU L I VE UP NORTH

“Some of my favorite memories are simply being at the cabin with family and friends.” – Architect Dale Mulfinger MEET THE CABINOLOGIST P. 44 MACKINAC ISLAND’S HYDRANGEA HOUSE P. 54

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APPOINTMENT WITH THE CABINOLOGIST

B y L I S S A M A R T I N / Photos by TROY THIES AND COREY GAFFER

W

THE BANG OF A SCREEN DOOR. BUNKBEDS IN THE SLEEPING LOFT. A PORCH THAT BECKONS. ARCHITECT DALE MULFINGER UNVEILS THE RECIPE FOR THE PERFECT UP NORTH CABIN.

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hat is so beguiling about cabins—essentially a stack of lumber in the middle of the wilderness—that makes us feel we can’t get enough of them? In six books (including The Family Cabin and Cabinology), architect Dale Mulfinger has made a name for himself defining these retreat spaces and diagnosing our addiction to rustic therapy.

For Mulfinger, a “cabin” is not just a word that applies to any house in the woods/on the lake, and it’s not for the big house that gets built where the old family

cottage used to be. Cabins have, he asserts, a particular shape, functionality and heart that is created by the confluence of space, size, flow, materials and intention.

After years of analyzing properties and studying what makes a cabin a “cabin,” he’s become a sought-after architectural expert on the matter and a keeper of the must-haves and gotta-adds that create a true cabin feeling. The good news: You can bring that vibe to your cabin, too. We check in with the Cabinologist himself.

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Q : You grew up on a farm in Minnesota—a rustic life for sure, but not exactly the world of cabin retreats. When did your fixation with cabins and cabin life begin?

A: It was probably 30 or 35 years ago.

By then, I had already been teaching as an adjunct faculty member at the University of Minnesota and I had co-founded the firm now known as SALA with Sarah Susanka, who wrote The Not So Big House. That book became quite well known.

Q : Yes! The Not So Big House certainly altered a lot of people’s perceptions about what home size they really needed. Clearly SALA is an exceptional firm and I can see Susanka’s work being a natural bridge to your focus on cabins—but the catalyst was actually something more literal, wasn’t it?

A: Yes, about a decade into the firm, I got a commission for a cabin.

I hadn’t grown up with a cabin, so I didn’t know much about them.

I decided to go out with some students and investigate what made a cabin feel like a cabin. I told them to go photograph ten cabins each and choose the ones that felt the most “cabin-like.” With ten students, we had 100 cabins to compare.

That began the research side of it.

Q : And that research led to writing about cabins?

A: Yes. A friend of mine was the editor at Minneapolis–St. Paul Magazine. He said if I found anything interesting, I should write about it.

That turned into about 70 articles over time. By then, I was getting more cabin commissions. Once people realized that’s what I was focusing on, word spread.

Q : And all of that notoriety led to a radio personality introducing you as The Cabinologist. Tell us more about that.

A: Twin City radio personality Joe Soucheray invited me on his “Garage Logic” program. When he heard that I was researching cabins with my students, he introduced me as “cabinologist.” I quickly accepted the moniker.

Q : What did that initial research reveal about what makes a building feel like a cabin?

A: Size was a big factor—cabins felt more authentic if they weren’t too large. Interior wood finishes, fireplaces, bunk beds and a lack of emphasis on bedrooms also contributed. Cabins with master suites or attached garages didn’t feel like cabins to us.

The site mattered, too: a view of

Previous page: Cabins served up three ways: Modern rustic on Lake Superior, rustic in Ely, Minnesota, and modern on Lake Michigan.

This page: The rustic modern Kohlstadt Keep on its Lake Superior perch. Mulfinger says that emphasizing the view (as in this inspirational Lake Superior horizon) is a relatively new trend in cabin design. “Originally people didn’t focus on the views because they were outside most of the time,” he points out.

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water, for example, was very important.

Also, people often referred to the lake-facing side as the “front” of the cabin, which contrasts with conventional homes where the entry side is considered the front.

Q : Have those ideas changed over time?

A: A bit. Not many clients come to an architect asking for a tiny cabin.

Land is expensive, and people often want something more substantial.

That said, we try to keep the design spirit intact.

One change is that nearly all cabins we design now are four-season.

That wasn’t true 25 years ago—most were seasonal. But now clients want to use them year-round, which changes how they’re built, especially with regard to energy performance.

Q : Do you think we’re losing something by making cabins more like full-time homes—bigger, insulated, heated?

A: Not necessarily. Many of the key qualities that define a cabin—like the great room or central gathering space—are still present. That communal room is usually more important than any living room or formal sitting area. People spend time eating, playing cards or doing puzzles around the table. And screen porches remain a beloved element.

Q : What about the connection to nature? Has that changed?

A: That link remains central and may be even more important today. Originally, people didn’t focus on views from inside the cabin because they were outside most of the time. Now there’s a greater emphasis on windows and sightlines. That said, I remind clients that you don’t sit and stare at a view all day—you interact with the people, the food, the activity. The view is background, not the main event.

With its great room and immediate connection to its natural setting, Mulfinger puts the modern Third Coast on Lake Michigan in the cabin category alongside the traditionally rustic WeeEly in Ely, Minnesota.

Q : We’re in Northern Michigan, where we call them cottages.

What’s the difference between a cottage and a cabin?

A: It’s mostly regional vocabulary.

The same structure in Minnesota would be called a cabin, in Michigan a cottage, and farther east—in places like Maine—it might be called NHC • MYNORTH.COM

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a camp. Aesthetically, cottages may lean a bit more toward painted exteriors and traditional charm, while cabins lean rustic. But you’ll find plenty of overlap.

Q : Do you have a cabin of your own?

A: I do. It’s on Lake Vermilion in northern Minnesota. We built it with another couple. It’s modest—about 1,300 square feet with two bedrooms and two baths. It’s banked into a hill, so you arrive at the second floor and descend to the living space. It features a great room, of course, and a screen porch. Nearby, we have a restored log guest cabin that came with the property.

Q : What would your dream cabin include? Anything different from what you already have?

A: I already have my dream cabin. If I changed anything, it would be the location—something closer, so we wouldn’t have to drive four hours.

Our first cabin was much simpler—a screened building with a sleeping loft and no running water. That one was only an hour and fifteen minutes away and had a more camping-like feel. So, yes, a cabin can be close and still feel like a retreat.

Q : What are some of your favorite cabin moments?

A: Some of my favorite memories are simply being at the cabin with family and friends. I’ve also stayed in cabins I designed for clients, which is a unique opportunity to see how the spaces really function. There was one on Madeline Island that felt so different from anything else I’d done, I almost questioned whether I had designed it myself—it was that distinct.

Q : That Madeline Island cabin—what made it unique?

A: It’s defined by a 100-foot-long wall.

You pass through it into a glass pavilion. The wall acts as a final threshold into the space of retreat. The site, accessed by ferry from Bayfield, Wisconsin, already sets the tone for escape. The architecture enhances that.

Cabin style may have expanded to include sleek, minimalist interiors, but to folks including the owners of the WeeEly, a woodstove, knotty pine paneling and cast-iron skillet hanging in the kitchen still a cabin make.

Q : It sounds like cabins have added a lot to your professional and creative life. Would you say that’s true?

A: Absolutely. Cabins have given me the opportunity to explore personality in design. Clients are less concerned about resale value and more focused on creating a legacy—something meaningful to pass on to future generations. That opens up a lot of creative space for an architect.

Q : And you’ve worked in Michigan, too, right?

A: Yes. One notable one is in Manistee,

called Third Coast. It’s on our firm’s website under Bryan Anderson’s portfolio. It’s a larger, more high-end cabin but still retains that sense of connection to place and purpose.

Q : It’s beautiful. What makes it “cabin-like” in your view?

A: Even though it’s more refined, it still focuses on gathering spaces, connecting to the outdoors, and simplicity in form. It respects the land and fosters togetherness. That, to me, is what defines a true cabin— regardless of scale.

Lissa Martin is a longtime Traverse Northern Michigan staffer and contributor; she calls Glen Arbor home.

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I

A NEW COTTAGE ON MACKINAC ISLAND IS ROOTED IN THE PAST—BUT READY FOR THE NEXT GEN OF ISLAND-LIFE LOVERS. B y L I S S A M A R T I N / Photos by ELIZABETH LEDTKE

magine being a kid and starting your summer vacation by hopping off a ferry and onto a bike—only to break for a swim at the Grand Hotel, a tromp in the woods to scan for British warships bobbing in blue waves, or a quick skirmish through a colonial fort. That island, of course, is Mackinac, and Chris Ledtke was one lucky boy in the 1990s when his parents, Steve and Kathy, purchased a historic island cottage called Crow’s Nest on the island’s East Bluff. The modest cottage had been built in 1900 for a doctor and his family. With its gingerbread-clad dormer and a gracious porch encased in old-fashioned paned windows, Crow’s Nest echoed the island’s grand Victorian cottages.

In early 2022, Chris and his wife, Liz, began mulling the idea of their own cottage—a place their three boys could make their own memories. That was when his parents suggested the younger couple begin taking over the responsibilities of Crow’s Nest. But as it turned out, that was not to be: “We were all giving some thought to what that arrangement might look like when we received a call from the Mackinac Island Fire Department sharing the news that the cottage had burned. It was a total loss,” recalls Liz.

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While a definitive cause was never found, investigators eventually ruled that critters gnawing on the home’s old wiring were most likely to blame.

“Chris’s parents were understandably devastated, because the cottage had so many memories for them, but we were all grateful that no one was hurt, including firefighters, and no other structures were damaged,” says Liz. “After that fire, we all made the decision that my husband and I would take on the rebuild of the cottage.”

Arriving at that decision was the easy part. “There were a lot of unknowns,” Liz recalls. “We had never planned to build a cottage, and we certainly hadn’t planned to build a cottage on a horse-powered island [motorized vehicles beyond snow mobiles are prohibited on Mackinac].

Needless to say, there were lots of unknowns about how to move forward.” Knowing that they needed a builder with experience building on the island, they hired Steve Rilenge, owner of U.P. North Construction & Restoration, who lives and works on Mackinac.

To design the home, the Ledtkes turned to friend and Traverse City– based architect Jessica Van Houzen Stroud. “The houses on Mackinac Island are the reason she decided to become an architect in the first place,” Liz says. “She designed a beautiful home for us that captures the best elements of the original 1900s home—

Previous page: Custom cabinetry with vintage corbels preserves the period feeling in the new cottage, as does the black painted hood and perimeter cabinets. The Ledtkes worked carefully with both officials at the Mackinac State Historic Parks and Preston Feather Lumber to install the historically appropriate transom lights. This page: Like the rest of the home, the dining porch is outfitted with vintage finds and new pieces. The walls are painted in Benjamin Moore Baby Fawn—a timeless, restful color.

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OUR KITCHENS ARE ALL ABOUT THE DETAILS 231.357.9733 mclaindesign.com mclaindesigns@gmail.com mclain_designs @McLain Designs

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BEFORE

The porch perch for taking in a view of the harbor is as central to the new cottage as it was to the original Crow’s Nest Cottage.

The exterior is clad in cedar, a requirement of Mackinac State Historic Parks. The lovely Wedgwood Gray (a Benjamin Moore Historical Collection color) is a tribute to the pale blue trim Chris’s mom, Kathy, used on Crow’s Nest, before the fire. particularly the long front porch with its large, beautiful windows.”

It wasn’t only the Ledtkes who wanted their new cottage to fit in with the island’s historic nature. The property is an inholding in Mackinac State Historic Parks, meaning the design had to conform to historic guidelines. To the couple’s relief, park

officials signed off on Stroud’s plans with no revisions required. That was just one hurdle, however. The park’s regulations also require projects to be completed within a specified time frame, though the major construction can only be done off season—when boats and their deliveries are halted.

The U.P. North Construction team

broke ground in October 2022— after navigating complicated logistics including ordering windows and lumber in time to be transported by freight boats before winter halted water traffic. But delivery issues didn’t stop at the harbor. “Transportation on the island in the winter is a challenge as the roads can get icy,

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but without enough snow, snowmobile transportation isn’t an option,” Liz explains.

Despite it all, the cottage, now renamed Hydrangea House—a nod to the wallpaper from Rifle Paper Co. that inspired the home’s color palette—was ready for interior touches

by early this year. Letting her love of deep saturated colors set a timeless tone, Liz had the custom cabinetry in the kitchen and living room painted black and then went on to choose a deep green for the primary bath. Morris & Co. vintage-inspired wallpaper in complementary hues also makes

One of the new home’s sunny porch porches that pays homage to the original cottage’s design.

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appearances throughout the home.

The furnishings are an eclectic mix Liz inherited from her grandmother, found at antique stores, bought on Facebook Marketplace and purchased new. Beyond leaning on her own design sense, she worked closely with interior designer Meghan Jurkovich, then of HomeWorks Interiors in Traverse City, as well as Steve Rilenge’s daughter, Adrienne. “She and I see eye to eye on design, so I could trust her to make design decisions when I wasn’t there,” Liz says.

This summer will be the family’s first in their new cottage. It won’t be long now before the three Ledtke boys bust off that ferry—ready to make their own childhood memories on Mackinac Island.

resources Architect: Jessica Van Houzen Stroud (Traverse City) Builder: Steve Rilenge of U.P. North Construction & Restoration (Mackinac Island) Windows: Darron Klooster, Preston Feather (Traverse City) Cabinetry: Maddie Denman, VanPolen Custom Cabinets (McBain) Interior Designer, Furniture: Meghan Jurkovich (Traverse City) Furniture Store: Brad Jurik, HomeWorks Interiors (Traverse City) Flooring and Tile: Kelly Bingham, Capital Floor Covering and Interior (Petoskey)

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The Cu l i nary North local restaurants • craft drinks • seasonal cuisine

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When you cook with the best ingredients and treat them with respect, food can be simple—there’s nothing to hide behind.

photo by Allison Jarrell Acosta

—CHEF RAY KUMM, LETO’S OSTERIA

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A MODERN TWIST photo by Allison Jarrell Acosta

by CARA MCDONALD

The new Leto’s Osteria crafts handmade pasta with a hyper-seasonal focus.

T

here’s a feeling of calm as wait staff glides from kitchen to bar to tables in starched canvas aprons. A song by the Gypsy Kings trickles down from distant speakers as an attractive older couple slides into the seats of a high-top table at the big picture window overlooking Pennsylvania Park on Petoskey’s Lake Street.

Even in its first summer season, Leto’s Osteria emanates a vibe of confidence and polish, paired with a warmth that’s palpable. You can see it in the exposed brick walls, the soft-spoken servers, the unapologetic love poured into the signature dishes.

Leto’s, and its modern-Italian concept, had a winding path to fruition, but in a way that felt like destiny. After eight years, POUR, the modernAmerican, seasonally focused restaurant that occupied the space, opted to close, pivot and reopen, with Chef Ray Kumm at the helm.

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The Cu l i nary North Destination Eats

photos by Allison Jarrell Acosta

Chef Ray Kumm and his iconic rigatoni Amatriciana

Kumm had moved to Northern Michigan and taken a job tending bar at POUR while laying plans for opening his own space. His plans to purchase a building fell through, but the management team at POUR saw an opportunity: Pull Kumm out from behind the bar and let him execute his vision in the kitchen instead.

The result, says General Manager Todd Chinnock, is a menu that is approachable, regionally rooted but with the urban sophistication that Kumm brings from previous positions in Chicago, Philadelphia and Baltimore. “This concept is all Chef ’s passion,” he says.

It’s not a chicken parmigiana et al dining experience— dishes are pasta-focused but refined. The small plates are lively spins on veg-forward, simple offerings but with plenty of layers—dishes like roasted Bear Creek Organic Farm carrots with green harissa, marinated fennel, sunflower crema and pumpkin seed dukkah or cauliflower frito with limonata agrodolce, basil, spring onion and nigella seeds.

For entrees, classics like cacio e pepe ride alongside standouts like mushroom Malfadine, which explodes with a sort of umami wizardry that makes you dive in again and again, trying to savor and sort the flavors. The dish’s

porcini-infused pasta is tossed with roasted hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, sun-dried pepper butter, spring onions and grana Padano.

A small but well-edited offering of proteins rounds out the entrée menu, including Berkshire pork Milanese, made from a heritage breed of locally produced pork.

With the exception of a few menu staples, the dishes rotate and are hyper-seasonal, but one to count on is the rigatoni Amatriciana: big, simple pasta rounds, the kind that conjure preschool macaroni necklaces.

“This is the first dish I made for my wife when we were dating,” Kumm says. “And it will be the last dish to ever leave this menu.” He unabashedly admits it’s his favorite; not complicated, elaborate or ornate— just a big, red bowl of pasta, almost anathema to the twists and turns the rest of the menu’s classic dishes get.

The tomato sauce with red onion has the warming bite of Aleppo chili and a salty hit of smoked guanciale, pork jowl with a distinctive rich flavor.

The overall warmth is unmistakable; this is a dish you eat past the point of fullness and think about for days.

Even once the plates are cleared, after a bourbon/coffee amaro cocktail and a minute to digest, it’s the kind of food that makes you wish for leftovers (you’ll have them) and a minute to take just one more forkful.

“We want to maintain the joy of pasta,” Kumm says. “It should create a warm, strong reception. When you cook with the best ingredients and treat them with respect, food can be simple—there’s nothing to hide behind.”

Mushroom Malfadine

AUGUST 2025

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FREE ENTR Y!

Food Truck

FridayS 4:00 - 9:00 PM

Savor the best of summer at Food Truck Fridays!

Enjoy a rotating lineup of local food trucks and sip craft drinks from our fully stocked shipping container bar.

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The Cu l i nary North Bite

SLICES OF LEELANAU

by CARLY SIMPSON

photo by Tim Hussey

T

This is how Northern Michigan does pizza: local raclette, farm-dug potatoes and wood-fired crust with a view.

he sky is overcast as we carry our long wooden spoon, marked #12, and cloth napkins to a picnic table at 9 Bean Rows in Suttons Bay. A few raindrops playfully scatter down. But the setting is too irresistible to sit inside today. Fragrant oregano and chives are growing next to us; a cook walks over to harvest a few of the fluffy purple blossoms while we stick our forks into lavender cheesecake piped with lemon curd—the woman ahead of us in line had stopped at the bakery solely to tell the team how much she loved it. (And she’s right; it’s divine.)

What we’ve really come for, though, is the wood-fired pizza, specifically the crispy-edged potato and raclette with thinly sliced rosemary ham, roasted garlic, caramelized onions and a generous drizzle of ramp pesto. Each May, the farmers head out into the property’s woodlands to forage for ramps, making batch after batch of pesto to freeze and use throughout the season. The housemade dough is done with freshly milled wheat from Great Lakes Garlic Farm in nearby Buckley, and the potatoes, garlic and onions are

grown at 9 Bean Rows or by their friends at Second Spring.

The renowned raclette is made six miles down the road at Leelanau Cheese: It won Super Gold at the 2023 World Cheese Awards held in Norway, one of only 100 cheeses selected worldwide.

The pizza menu is rounded out with a classic pepperoni pie, Margherita, fennel with prosciutto and house ricotta (I’ve been told this is a must-try but was sold out today), and a roasted mushroom ’za that doubles down with a smear of mushroom pesto, too.

“Table 12, raclette potato?” our server confirms before setting down a masterclass in farm-to-table dining. Lunch is on.

Get Saucy: Place your order inside the market, or ahead

of time online (a good idea if you’re also hoping to nab flaky croissants, which typically sell out mid-morning on busy weekends). Pizza available daily from 11 a.m. to close, through October. Local wines from Aurora Cellars pair well; choose pinot blanc with the potato raclette.

AUGUST 2025

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Love of the Land

get there

photo by Dave Weidner

BETSIE VALLEY TRAIL This scenic Benzie County pathway—running 22 miles through Frankfort, Elberta, Beulah and Thompsonville—welcomes both walkers and cyclists to explore everything from rivers and beaches, to forests and wetlands. Built on the bed of the former Ann Arbor Railroad in 1992, you’ll find a mix of both paved and aggregate sections along this rails-to-trails route (efforts are currently underway by the Friends of the Betsie Valley Trail to pave the pathway between Beulah and Thompsonville). Scenery ranges from the Betsie River and Crystal Lake, to the Pere Marquette State Forest. The wetlands provide some excellent birding, so bring your binoculars. –A.J.A.

72 T R A V E R S E N O R T H E R N M I C H I G A N

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