Traverse Northern Michigan's Magazine, April 2022

Traverse + DUNE BIRD: THE NORTH'S NEWEST WINERY

FORAGING SPRING VIOLETS

RECIPE: RAMP TZATZIKI

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Catch & Cook: 3 Local Fish

9 Foodie Getaways

New-Age Wine?

Biodynamic Vineyards

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

THE

FOOD D R& INK ISSUE

The

Tastemakers

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CULINARY INNOVATORS CHANGING THE WAY WE EAT UP NORTH

SPECIAL INSERT

Northern Home & Cottage

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APRIL 2O22

$6.5O

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worldly cuisine and wine panoramic views private dining

16th Floor | Grand Traverse Resort and Spa

231-534-6800 | aerierestaurant.com Owned & Operated by the Grand Traverse Band of Ottawa and Chippewa Indians

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YOU’RE INVITED

The viewers of Good Morning America chose it as the “Most Beautiful Place in America.”

It features sandy beaches, sparkling waters, and towering dunes, preserved and protected by the National Park Service.

Other properties claim to be close to it but aren’t.

We don’t. It surrounds our members’ properties.

So, save the driving and gas…vacation here and stay here.

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Building and renovating Northern Michigan’s finest residences.

NG PENDI

J. Peterson Realty is pleased to present this rare Old Mission building site featuring 110’ of direct sandy frontage on West Bay. Conveniently located just a stone’s throw north of Bowers Harbor, the private wooded site offers a flat yard leading to a low bluff and sandy beach beyond. Let J. Peterson Homes assist you with a new home plan or come with your own design. Lot price includes removal of existing structure.

15543 Birch Drive. $995,000. MLS# 158084

NG PENDI

Remarkable opportunity to build a new J. Peterson home on Old Mission’s renowned West Bay. The wooded site features an elevated westerly facing building envelope with a low bluff leading to the sandy beach. Amenity includes all the quality workmanship and materials you expect from a J. Peterson Home including hardwood floors throughout, tiled showers and baths, Pella windows, Kohler plumbing fixtures and the best finish in the industry. Lot is serviced by natural gas and high-speed cable internet. $2,250,000. MLS# 11895578

joel@joelpetersonhomes.com • 516 E. Front St., Traverse City • 231.994.2168

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Traverse 4.22 INSIDE

F E AT U R E S

DISCOVER MORE ABOUT UP NORTH, PEOPLE, PLACES, FOOD AND EVENTS.

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SO WHAT’S YOUR ANGLE? Three anglers take us to their favorite Northern Michigan waters for bluegill, trout and salmon, sharing tips along the way for preparing a perfect fresh-catch feast.

PRODUCED BY ALLISON JARRELL PHOTOS BY TONY DEMIN

26 IN VINO VERITAS

An Elk Rapids winemaker is bringing backto-basics farming and biodynamic growing practices to the Up North vineyard scene.

B Y G R E G TA S K E R PHOTOS BY JACQUELINE SOUTHBY

32 2022 TASTEMAKERS

After receiving more than 150 nominations from industry professionals and following months of research and interviews, we’re proud to reveal Traverse’s inaugural Tastemakers. Meet six people who are changing the way we eat.

P R O D U C E D A N D E D I T E D B Y S TA C E Y B R U G E M A N

photo by Tony Demin

PHOTOS BY MICHAEL POEHLMAN

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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for all your summer adventures

DE PART M E N T S 7 | EDITOR'S NOTE

New beginnings at MyNorth: meet Executive Editor Cara McDonald.

9 | UP NORTH

Gail Gruenwald, the recently retired executive director of the Tip of the Mitt Watershed Council, reflects on the nonprofit’s successes and the challenges that still lie ahead.

321 E. Lake Street • Petoskey (231) 439-9500 www.bearcuboutfitters.com

Elizabeth Blair FinePearls Elizabeth Blair

13 | APRIL EVENTS

Celebrate spring’s arrival with floral workshops, live music, curated food and drink tastings and Easter festivities.

FinePearls

15 | TRAVEL

Nine spring getaways where dining is the star, from classic supper clubs to a renovated lumber baron’s mansion-turned-inn.

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19 | OUTDOORS

When the snow melts, waterfalls across the Keweenaw Peninsula release a torrent of natural beauty.

41 | THE CULINARY NORTH

Northport’s Dune Bird Winery is the cozy hangout you’ve been craving.

47 | ON THE TABLE

Harvest fresh ramps for this northern take on Greek tzatziki.

51 | LAST CALL

The Last Word is a colorful gin cocktail perfect for an April day.

52 | LOVE OF THE LAND

Use freshly foraged violets to add the sweet taste of spring to your next glass of lemonade (or fave cocktail!).

Everyday Luxe Everyday Luxe

115 W. Main Street ~ Harbor Springs, MI 231.526.7500 WestMainPearls.com ElizabethBlair.com 115 W. Main Street ~~Harbor Springs, MI 231.526.7500 Jewelers of America WestMainPearls.com ~ ElizabethBlair.com Cultured Pearl Association of America American Gem Society Jewelers of America Cultured Pearl Association of America American Gem Society

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(top to bottom) photos by Sarah Peschel and Dave Weidner

16 | UP IN MICHIGAN

Cammie Buehler of Epicure Culinary pays homage to the region’s food and beverage pioneers who laid the foundation for today’s flourishing culinary scene.

Follow Us On Social Media

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facebook.com/mynorthmedia instagram.com/mynorthmedia pinterest.com/mynorthmedia

ON THE COVER The 2022 Tastemakers PHOTO BY MICHAEL POEHLMAN

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Traverse UNIQUE GIFTS NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

A MyNorth Media Publication VP, SALES STRATEGY & OPERATIONS EXECUTIVE EDITOR

Michael Wnek Cara McDonald

ASSOCIATE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL CONTENT WRITER & SOCIAL MEDIA PROJECT MANAGER

Rachel Soulliere Stacey Brugeman

PROOFREADERS

Elizabeth Aseritis Caroline Dahlquist

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

Andrew VanDrie Kandace Chapple Kim Schneider Heather Durocher

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Tim Hussey Theresa Burau-Baehr

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

Rachel Watson Claire Houser

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

DIRECTOR OF SALES SALES ACCOUNT COORDINATOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

MARKETING DIRECTOR MARKETING COORDINATOR

FOR MOM

Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Allison Jarrell

SENIOR EDITOR

CULINARY COLUMNIST

Vol. 41 | No. 11

Julie Parker Tabatha VanWingerden Mike Alfaro Ann Gatrell Julie James Meg Lau Kirk Small

FUSTINI’S DRESSING KIT

Erin Lutke Ashlyn Korienek Libby Stallman

OFFICE MANAGER

Kim Stewart

BOOKKEEPER

Be ready for any salad with the Fustini’s Dressing Jar. Follow six unique dressings measured on the side of the bottle to create and enjoy.

This kit includes the Iron Fish Honey Vinegar, Herbs de

EDITORIAL & ADVERTISING OFFICES

125 S Park Street, Suite 155 Traverse City, MI 49684 Phone: 231.941.8174 | Fax: 231.941.8391

Provence olive oil, Pinot Grigio vinegar and a measured dressing jar.

SUBSCRIBER SERVICES

Visit MyNorth.com/Account to renew your subscription, change your address, or review your account.

Please email other subscription inquiries to info@mynorth.com or call 800-678-3416 between 8:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. EST. Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly by Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan, 1 Broadcast Way, Cadillac, MI 49601.

Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $29.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $6.50.

Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2022, Heritage Broadcasting Company of Michigan.

Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

Let’s Get Together and Cook!

141 E FRONT ST • TRAVERSE CITY • 231-944-1145 PETOSKEY • ANN ARBOR • HOLLAND

FUSTINIS.COM NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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WE’RE SURROUNDED

We’re surrounded by natural beauty. The beach National Geographic named one of the “21 Best Beaches in the World” is on our west, the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, our north and east.

The most popular vacation activities in the National Park and area, including swimming, paddling, dune climbing, golfing, shopping, sightseeing, wine tasting and dining, are on our property or nearby.

Stay here...be surrounded, be glad.

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editor's note

A CLICK OF THE HEELS

by CARA MCDONALD

I

f i said deb fellows had given me a gift, I’d of course be only one of thousands of people in this region to be able to say that. It’s almost incomprehensible to think of what it took for a then 24-year-old Deb to have the vision to create a magazine that would result in four decades and thousands of stories that shone light and lifted up, challenged and delighted us—a monthly love letter to her beloved North.

But there’s one gift in particular that has come back to my thoughts: the recycled gift bag with the mysterious two lumps wrapped in tissue paper that she gave me at a particularly rowdy company holiday party.

Four years before that party, I was fresh out of graduate school and beginning an editing job at Traverse Magazine.

From my rented room in an old white Victorian on Monroe Street, I walked along the bay to work that summer, and every day it was like some kind of miracle, realizing that this was my home, the subject of my professional focus and my playground.

I was given the opportunity most young writers would kill for: freedom. With a generosity of spirit and experience, Deb and the editing team at the magazine turned me loose with the wildest of stories and the chance to find my own voice.

I paddled a kayak for days along the Pictured Rocks, explored the coast of Isle Royale and portaged a Grumman canoe farther than I’d like to remember. I shadowed winemaker Mark Johnson and rode horseback with Mackinac Island locals, learned to fly fish and hopped a whistle-stop

train to the middle of Northwoods nowhere. I spent some nights in a U.P. ghost town and some nights in Grand Hotel. I drove and interviewed my way through the North, visiting farms along the way and driving home with apples and pumpkins rolling around the back seat.

A person couldn’t have had a happier, more otherworldly introduction to regional magazine journalism. As much as I loved the stories, so too did I fall hard for my fellow staff.

They became lifelong friends and colleagues who have kept me connected to the North no matter where life intervened.

And it did. After four years, I had a terrible, conflicted longing. I was eager to grow my career and broaden my horizons, yet I had an ache whenever I thought about leaving.

One thing I knew for sure: if I didn’t leave then, I would never leave, because I would have fallen so completely in love that I would never live anywhere else again.

In hindsight, maybe that should have been my destiny, but the universe has a funny way of working things out.

I packed up my cat and German shepherd and moved to Indianapolis, then Denver, then the Colorado mountains. I worked at other regional magazines, founded and edited three of my own, folded one, married, had two wild boys.

After two decades away, my heart was battered—by Covid-19, loss, grief, a catastrophic wildfire. My sister sent me a candle for my birthday. The label simply reads “Homesick: Michigan,” with a silhouette of our fair peninsulas and a heady floral scent. (It’s supposed to smell like Michigan, but how do you capture riverbanks and apple blossoms, wet dog, pine cones, the smell of a just-started outboard motor?) As I lit it and watched it glow, my heart was telling me: go home.

Not long after, Deb called me with the unthinkable news that she was retiring and the magazine was in search of an editor. The whirlwind that followed found me reimagining everything, from what I’d wear (fewer boots, more swimsuits) to where we’d live, to if my mountain kids would find a love of the water buried deep in their DNA. Coming on board as MyNorth and the magazine joins the Heritage Broadcasting family is a special time to envision the magazine’s future as well as my own. We are lucky to be linking arms with like-minded people who care as much about the North as we do, and the opportunity to take on this role as we grow together has me feeling both humbled and lit with excitement.

The trajectory of my life was shaped by my time here, and I am thrilled to make my way back to the place, publication and people that have meant so much. That has been Deb’s gift to me, and one for which I will be forever grateful.

The lumpy gift bag? That holiday party was my last; I was heading off to a new job just a few days later. All those years ago, as snow swirled outside and martini glasses clinked, Deb handed me the bag. Inside was a pair of hilariously large, vintage sparkly red-orange pumps. “So you can click your heels,” she said, “and always come home.”

Cara McDonald Executive Editor cara@mynorth.com

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PA I D C O N T E N T

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orget your definition of business meetings. At Mission Point Resort on Mackinac Island, you’ll find corporate groups (along with other guests working remotely) enjoying the light-filled meeting rooms newly remodeled to reflect the soft blues and greens of the island. And the on-site movie theater best known as a filming site for the cult classic “Somewhere in Time” is another favorite gathering spot. But don’t expect today’s modern meeting to be a lecture. Guests are more likely talking business on sunrise hikes, holding a brainstorming session from Adirondack

gathering at Mission Point. Corporations and associations, as well as groups of friends and families, are eager to get together again.

Mission Point is a natural fit, she says, since the island’s mission district “was the first area on the island purposely designed to bring people together.” The resort's original buildings once housed a mission school before becoming the island’s first tourist hotel, and in the 1950s, the resort was the headquarters of an international peace movement that drew idealists from around the world to find ways to forever avoid another world war.

The Ware family is entering its eighth season of ownership, and their renovation investment is up to $15.5 million—working to make the resort a best-of-class bucket list destination for foodies, wine enthusiasts and both family and business travelers. This year, the Wares are renovating another 30 guest rooms and adding a

MISSION ACCOMPLISHED Planning a work conference or corporate retreat? Mackinac Island’s Mission Point Resort promises to make it memorable.

photos courtesy of Mission Point Resort

By K I M S C H N E I DE R

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chairs overlooking the Straits of Mackinac or gathered in small groups around fireplaces and outdoor dining spaces.

There’s an intense emphasis on all things local at Mission Point, whether it's chatting with a resident about island life, team-building exercises involving cocktail pairings and Mackinac Island fudge, or attending a watercolor class run by an area artist. An entire meeting—and after-meeting fun—can be accomplished without leaving the resort’s grounds.

Even the executive chef gets into the spirit of crafting a meal to fit a vision, and is available to turn a simple lunch into an interactive cooking class featuring just-caught fish or local produce. Similarly, clothing boutique staff put together fashion shows and groundskeepers give private garden tours.

Liz Ware, the resort’s vice president of sales and marketing, says 2022 is the year of

weather-impervious pergola that creates the look of a grand porch over the popular outdoor eating area at Round Island Kitchen.

Optometrist Greg Caldwell says it was serendipity that brought the education conference he runs to the island resort this past summer after a border closing canceled his planned Quebec City meeting. He’s already booked an even larger meeting at Mission Point for 2022 and is working on a contract for 2023.

While Caldwell says he and his attendees appreciated the authentic amenities, the fact that the resort is family-owned was key and made evident in the exceptional customer service. A highlight was the chance to sit down with owner Dennert Ware and talk about the more recent history of his family’s ownership and future plans.

“It was such a joy getting to talk to him about all they’ve invested,” Caldwell says. “And he has a five-year plan of taking the hotel to an even higher level.”

Julie Von Ins with Request Foods loves how easy and fun it’s been planning her 2023 corporate retreat at Mission Point. Von Ins has already booked spa treatments for her staff as well as matching king rooms with Straits views, and she’s looking forward to filling in the rest of the weekend schedule.

“Depending on what people are looking to do,” Ware says, “we can make a lot of visions come to life.”

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Up North.

PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES

WATER WARRIORS

by CARLY SIMPSON

Petoskey-based Tip of the Mitt Watershed Council on water threats, how we can help and inspiring the next generation of conservationists.

photo by Todd Zawistowski

GAIL GRUENWALD,

the recently retired executive director of the Tip of the Mitt Watershed Council, has spent nearly four decades advocating for the North’s waters. In the ’80s, she wrote the state’s first Wetland Protection Guidebook after the Wetlands Protection Act of 1979 was passed, changing people’s perceptions of wetlands as wastelands. Since then, and with help from a remarkable team, she’s grown the Watershed Council to 2,200 members and created an organization that local governments and lake associations turn to for advice. As the Watershed Council welcomes a new executive director this spring, Gail and Associate Director Jennifer Buchanan reflect on the work that’s been accomplished and challenges that still lie ahead.

Gail Gruenwald

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WHEN OUR CLIENTS SPEAK, WE LISTEN. It’s a simple but effective way of helping people reach their financial goals - and it’s a way of doing business that Raymond James has pioneered for more than 50 years. Make your voice count. Partner with one of our financial advisors and get guidance that’s in tune with your life. LIFE WELL PLANNED. Jeff K. Pasche, CFA® Senior Vice President, Investments Western Michigan Complex Manager Susan G. Carlyon, WMS Senior Vice President, Investments ® Wealth Management Specialist James Spencer, ChFC®, AAMS® Financial Advisor Stoops, AWMA Jeff K.JimPasche, CFA®, CRPC® First Vice President, Investments Senior Vice President, Investments ® Jennifer Youker, CFP , CRPC® Traverse City Complex Manager Financial Advisor Dennis J. Brodeur Vice President, Investments Wealth Management Specialist Trevis E. Gillow Vice President, Investments Wealth Management Specialist Susan Carlyon First Vice President, Investments Wealth Management Specialist Keith Carlyon Senior Vice President, Investments

Maggie Beeler, AAMS®, CRPC® Investment Portfolio Associate Shelley A. Stefanits Complex Administrator Manager West Michigan Complex Courtney C. Davis Client Service Associate Barbara S. Shellman, MBA Sr. Registered Paul M.Client Bonaccini Service Associate

^ NEW UP NORTH Serving up what’s fresh on the business, community and events scene.

BEAU EST BEAU 220 N. MAIN ST., CHEBOYGAN

New this winter, the second location of Beau est Beau is a French-inspired tavern with food, wine, live music, open mic night and pop-up events, plus a by-appointment hair parlor. (The original location in Traverse City is a salon only.) beauestbeau.com COMMON GOOD BAKERY 1115 E. EIGHTH ST., TRAVERSE CITY

The much-loved TC bakery is working toward a summer opening of its second location bringing pastries, pizza and sandwiches to the east side of town. commongoodbakery.com

L.A.COOL Vice President, Investments 120 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY Accredited Asset Management Specialist Find elevated wardrobe essentials for women at this downtown store opening Tyne Hyslop April 15. Owner Lisa Dykema, whose Financial Advisor maiden name is Lisa Anne Cool, is excit® ® ed to give TC access to designer clothJennifer Youker, CFP , CRPC ing that’s worn by celebrities like JenniFinancial Advisor fer Aniston and Kaia Gerber. The shop website goes live on the 15th, and all Eric H. Palo items in-store will be for sale online.

Financial Advisor shoplacool.com James Spencer, ChFC, AAMS MADCAP COFFEE COMPANY Associate Vice President, Investments106 N. MAIN ST., LELAND Grand Rapid’s Madcap Coffee is exRobert Fenton panding north, taking over the former Blue Boat Coffee in Leland. A late Financial Advisor

spring opening is expected, and the new shop will be open year-round. madcapcoffee.com SHEAR CANINE PET SPA 121 BRIDGE ST., ELK RAPIDS

13818 S West13818 Bay Shore Traverse MI 49684 (231) 946-3650 S WestDr Bay• Shore Dr. •City, Traverse City, MI •49684 (231) 946-3650 • www.raymondjames.com/Traverse-City ©2015 Raymond James & Associates, Inc., member New York Stock Exchange/SIPC. Raymond James® is a registered trademark of Raymond James Financial, Inc. 15-BDMKT-1770 ME/CW 4/15 Chartered Retirement Plan SpecialistSM, AWMA®, Accredited Wealth Management AdvisorSM; CRPC®, Accredited Asset Management SpecialistSM and AAMS® are trademarks or registered service marks of the College for Financial Planning in the United States and/or other countries. Certified Financial Planner Board of Standards Inc. owns the certification marks Certified Financial Planner™ and CFP® in the U.S., which it awards to individuals who successfully complete CFP Board’s initial and ongoing certification requirements.

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All breeds are welcome at this pet spa offering dog and cat grooming along with other services for furry friends. facebook.com/shearcanineer –C.S. Know of a business that just opened or have a fun community update? Let us know at editorial@traversemagazine.com.

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thousand kids at this point, many of whom have since graduated from high school and gone on to study natural science.

Biggest water issues our region is facing:

GAIL: Climate change. Climate change isn’t

an issue just because the climate is changing. It also has resulting problems. Stormwater discharges are increasing, causing more pollution in our waters. We’re seeing an increase in invasive species because they’re able to adjust to differing temperatures. Algae growth, and some blue-green algae problems, have been cited in Northern Michigan. And then we are still facing water quality issues from shoreline development and the hardening of shorelines. And that is because obviously the region is still a nice place to come and live and build your home, but there are still not enough protections in place to protect those shorelines.

How to help:

photo by Dave Weidner

JEN: Well, this might sound self-serving,

An accomplishment you’re especially proud of:

but I think it’s being aware of the groups in your community, namely conservation nonprofits, and the work that they’re doing. If you believe in the mission of those groups, make sure you’re supporting them as best you can, whether it’s a donation or liking something on social media.

Beyond that, you can help by being aware of what I call your “stormwater footprint.”

Take a look and see what’s happening on your property. Do you have a downspout that is draining directly to the street? Are you leaving pet waste on the ground and therefore allowing bacteria to wash into a lake? Learn about the importance of what Jennifer Buchanan you can do at your home, your business, your workplace, to minimize what’s leaving that area of land and having an impact downstream.

GAIL: Fundraising for purchasing and renovating the building that we’re in—the Freshwater Center—that’s now been our home for a couple of decades. Outside, we have a stormwater sand filter and a rain garden that also serves as an educational facility. Inside, we have displays in the front room, and people can come in and learn about the Watershed Council. It’s a neat place downtown right near the park and it gives us real visibility.

JEN: The Watershed Academy, which is a program for high

school kids. We teach students who express interest in water quality during classroom sessions, and then we take them out to a stream and they get waders and collect macroinvertebrates, which are good biological indicators of water quality. I’ve watched the program grow from a few initial thoughts into something that’s impacted hundreds if not a

Find resources, events, volunteer opportunities and more at watershedcouncil.org.

Carly Simpson is the associate editor of Traverse Magazine and editor of MyNorth’s email newsletter The Daily Splash.

Subscribe free at MyNorth.com. csimpson@mynorth.com

DID YOU KNOW? Stormwater, aka the water that pours down streets and into storm drains, typically doesn’t get treated; it’s discharged directly into lakes and rivers, taking cigarette butts, bacteria from pet waste, soap from the car wash and anything else dumped on the ground with it.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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TIX Watch for the MyNorthTix symbol and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

April edited b y LIBBY STALLMAN

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photo by Allison Jarrell

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See the Traverse City Opera's debut performance at Kirkbride Hall with visiting and local artists.

MyNorthTickets.com Bowling Down Main Street is a spring break tradition in Harbor Springs (Yes, you really do bowl right in the street!). Plus, free cocoa and doughnuts for kids at Johan’s. harborspringschamber.com Think spring! Join Olds Floral & Design in Kingsley for Workshop Wednesday and create an Easter basket arrangement using dried flowers, willow branches and more to decorate for the holiday.

MyNorthTickets.com After a two-year hibernation, the Festival of the Angry Bear presented by Ore Dock Brewing Co. returns, showcasing a slew of barrel-aged beers in Marquette. travelmarquette.com

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Visit Traverse City’s Cathedral Barns for a play reading of “Dance Nation” by Parallel 45 Theatre.

Set somewhere in America, the play follows an army of preteen competitive dancers plotting to take over the world, exploring ambition, growing up and finding their souls in the heat of it all.

MyNorthTickets.com Let Black Star Farms’ Progressive Wine & Food Tasting ignite your senses. Learn about the history of Leelanau’s unique wine region, take a look behind the scenes and indulge in decadent dessert wines and small bites.

MyNorthTickets.com The National Writers Series welcomes U.S. Poet Laureate Joy Harjo to Traverse City. Join this free livestream event with Ms. Harjo to talk poetry, history, inspiration and writing. nationalwritersseries.org

The Made in Michigan FUNdraiser at the Cadillac Elks Lodge includes a special silent auction and live entertainment to benefit the Gopherwood Concert organization.

MyNorthTickets.com

FRI

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The first annual Lift Your Spirits event in the Village of Bay Harbor celebrates the arrival of spring and Michigan craft distillers during a two-day event that includes a five-course dinner, tastings and an after party. bayharbor.com

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The Great Lakes Chamber Orchestra presents “Take to the Sky,” a concert centered around the portrayals of bird calls in classical music. Catch the performance at the Great Lakes Center for the Arts in Bay Harbor.

MyNorthTickets.com

FRI

Glen Lake Restaurant Week kicks off today, offering an array of dining options “from french fries to French cuisine” through May 7. visitglenarbor.com

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Please note, as these dates approach, some events may be modified, postponed or canceled. Check online or call ahead to confirm.

FIND MORE AT MYNORTH.COM > EVENTS

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TRILLIUM

TRILLIUMSHORE.com Custom Homes Custom Homes www.trilliumshore.com

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travel Dam Site Inn

DAM SITE INN

ROAD-TRIP RESTAURANTS

by KIM SCHNEIDER

9 getaways where dining is the star 1911 RESTAURANT AT THE TERRACE INN

Sleep in a vintage inn themed after the likes of Ernest Hemingway who wrote and imbibed inside this Petoskey hotel located in the beautiful Bay View neighborhood. Then sample the locally focused cuisine of Chef Jordan Glover.

Look for ramps and fiddleheads in spring fare and handmade fettuccine topped with his (local) Gypsy Vodka sauce. theterraceinn.com ROCK'S LANDING

Generations of Chimney Corners guests know this nearby Frankfort restaurant for its views that make you feel as if you’re atop Crystal Lake. Bonus, it’s an easy stroll across the street. Book a room, or not; meals like seared sea scallops and lemon ricotta gnocchi are now available to the public—as is that fabulous view. rocksoncrystal.com THE ARGONNE HOUSE

photo by Jacqueline Southby

The Argonne has been serving their shrimp dinners since 1948 and they are still as good as ever. Eat your fill, then stay at Charlevoix’s Hotel Earl. Recent renovations play on architect Earl Young’s love of natural materials, like rock and liveedge wood, and vintage touches are sprinkled throughout. argonnehouse.com GATES AU SABLE LODGE

Trout-fishing enthusiasts have long made their way to this Grayling Eden on the Au Sable’s holy waters. Book a simple room with extraordinary views and take up fishing—or just eat. Think fresh-caught, bacon-wrapped trout (Trout Hemingway), smoky trout chowder, scratch-made hash and eggs. gateslodge.com

Diners in Brutus enjoy the fried chicken dinners served family-style at this local icon. The 1950s-era restaurant sports groovy seating designed by Charles Eames and walls of soft Naugahyde once used in Buicks. Stafford’s Crooked River Lodge nearby offers a river view and indoor pool. damsiteinn.com KEWEENAW MOUNTAIN LODGE

You’ll get starry-eyed over the ever-changing dining room menu inspired by the slow-food movement. A stay at this historic log beauty resembling a national park lodge also allows for actual star-gazing; its International Dark Sky status is pending. keweenawmountainlodge.com LITTLE TRAVERSE INN

Lawn lights twinkle, jazz singers croon from inside and menus feature British Isles pub classics and Indian specialties at this country inn north of Glen Arbor. Beds are just upstairs, where rooms offer Little Traverse Lake views and elegance befitting suite names such as Windsor and Camelot. littletraverseinn.com THE GLENWOOD

Plan a date night for the May 6 seasonal opening of this waterfront spot built circa 1900 for Chicago-area tourists who flocked to Onekama by steamship. Savor blue cheese filet mignon or salmon topped with cucumber dill sauce, then gaze at Portage Lake from the wraparound porch at Canfield House, a lumber baron house turned B&B. glenwoodrestaurant.com TRACEY’S AT THE ROAM INN

Munising is a destination for more than the famed Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, roaring waterfalls and agate hunts. Diners pilgrimage for fresh whitefish, unexpected Asian noodle dishes, rice bowls and house cocktails inside the 18-room boutique hotel/mansion with bay views. roam-inn.com Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she’s the author of “100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die.” NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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up in michigan

REAPING A BOUNTIFUL HARVEST

by CAMMIE BUEHLER

The roots of Northern Michigan’s culinary scene run deep. Here, we pay homage to the pioneers who laid the foundation for a flourishing region.

top to bottom: photos by Dave Weidner, Todd Zawistowski (2), Tim Hussey

W

e are fortunate to call home an area rich in food and farming traditions. As a fifth-generation summer kid from Omena, my carefree days spent picking roadside asparagus, fishing and making pies had a profound impact on my career path, like they have had for many with deep ties to Northern Michigan. When I was 13, I got my first restaurant job at the Riverside Inn in Leland; and although I’ve lived in many places, I’ve been in the industry ever since. Working in northern California restaurants for more than a decade early in my career gave me a deep appreciation for the positive ripple effect local food can have in a community.

Seeing a hole in the market for a catering company focused on local sourcing, I returned to Leelanau County to open Epicure Catering with Chef Andy Schudlich in 2003, and in doing so, Andy and I joined the decades-old ranks of Northern Michigan’s food pioneers. It is fitting, in this issue that features Traverse Magazine’s first annual Tastemakers Awards, to recognize the folks who forged the North’s rich culinary scene.

Up North food was mostly about burgers and whitefish when Wes and Arlene Westhoven opened the Rowe Inn in 1972—the first of a new wave of destination restaurants to feature a chalkboard menu that changed, Euro-style, with the seasons. A decade later, Justin Rashid of American Spoon turned his love of foraging in the Northern woods into a jarred food business that would go national. In 1984, Pete Peterson, who had worked at the Rowe Inn, opened Tapawingo—and put our culinary scene on the map by earning multiple James Beard Foundation nominations.

Phil Murray opened Windows in 1986 and worked hand in hand with Randy and Mari Chamberlain, the architects of one of today’s most acclaimed local dining rooms, Blu (opened in 2008). Jim Milliman, another Rowe Inn alum, launched the Leelanau County bistro scene with Hattie’s in 1987. And you can’t mention bistros without naming Amical, Dave Denison’s beloved downtown 16

Traverse City establishment, which opened in 1994.

While these early restaurants were as varied as their operators, they had commonalities: all showcased local and seasonal items at a time when they were surprisingly hard to source.

Farms weren’t set up to sell retail or even wholesale to restaurants.

There was no local food distributor and markets were spotty.

Many of these chefs found themselves going to great lengths to source local and high-end ingredients. The diligence of those chefs fostered a focus on craft, and specialists like Bob Pisor at Stone House Bread, John and Anne Hoyt at Leelanau Cheese and Mimi Wheeler at Grocer’s Daughter Chocolates expanded the range of locally produced, value-added artisan products.

The work of those culinary pioneers sparked recognition and respect for our locally grown produce, dairy, meats, syrup, honey and fruits—and spurred a renaissance in agriculture that includes an increase in small farms, hoop houses, Community Supported Agriculture programs (CSAs) and a healthy farm market infrastructure. All of this was pulled together by the Taste the Local Difference campaign, which was the first outlet to publish a comprehensive farm guide for our region and is now marketing statewide. Thanks to the work of many, local food is now ubiquitous, and its benefits are undisputed.

Next came craft drink.

When Bernie Rink began experimenting, growing grapes and making wine in Leelanau County, I don’t think he could’ve envisioned the way wineries would grow in Northern Michigan—or the bounty of medals our wines have won. Secondgeneration fruit farmers like Larry Mawby (whose Mawby sparkling wines have won prestigious

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awards), and Bruce Simpson (whose Good Harbor Vineyards is now in the hands of a new generation) expanded their family farms into vineyards. And an Irishman from Philadelphia, Ed O’Keefe, planted vinifera at Chateau Grand Traverse on Old Mission in 1974, and, against all odds, proved it could thrive.

Breweries naturally followed. Jack Archiable, credited with being the first to commercially brew craft beer in Northern Michigan, founded Traverse Brewing Company in 1996 and went on to mentor some of the region’s bestknown brewery founders: John Niedermaier, Brewery Terra Firma; Joe Short, Short’s Brewing Company; and Russell Springsteen, Right Brain Brewery. Cideries and distilleries also emerged, some using generational recipes and all putting a Northern Michigan stamp on their products including locally grown hops, grapes, apples and now even a historic variety of rye.

Clearly, today’s food and beverage professionals have a deep well of history and many mentors in the region to draw from. Perhaps the creativity of the six Tastemakers celebrated in this issue was sparked by an Anishinaabeg meal in an elder’s kitchen, or an experience as a youth on a local farm, or by renowned authors Ernest Hemmingway and Jim Harrison writing about fishing in Northern Michigan. Whatever the influence may be, we celebrate our region’s pioneers as well as the inaugural group of Tastemakers presented in this issue —a delicious stew, if you will, of the old and the new.

Cammie Buehler has more than 30 years of experience in food and hospitality and works as a culinary professional and consultant through her business, Epicure Culinary. epicureculinary.com Opposite top to bottom: Chef Pete Peterson of Tapawingo; a morel dinner at Rowe Inn; Bernie Rink, the founder of Boskydel Vineyards; Brengman Brothers Winery

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outdoors

SPRING FALLS

by HEATHER JOHNSON DUROCHER

When the snow melts, waterfalls across the Keweenaw Peninsula release a torrent of natural beauty.

T

he long weekend stretches out before us when we arrive in Houghton for our daughter’s spring graduation from Michigan Tech University. It’s cool and damp, but the days ahead promise sunshine and warmer temperatures and a full schedule: meeting up with family and friends, attending Covid-altered graduation festivities and helping Emma pack up and move out of her apartment.

We also plan to spend some time exploring the Keweenaw, one of our family’s favorite places in Michigan and a spot we’ve come to know even better these past few years with more frequent visits to see Emma at Tech. What’s new for us this time, though, is seeing the area in late spring—past trips have been at the height of summer, during fall’s peak colors, and in February, when it’s the coldest and snowiest.

At the top of our must-do list are the Keweenaw’s waterfalls, which we’re told roar to life as winter’s 270+ inches of snow melt away. You’ll find more than a dozen in the area.

Here are a few of our favorites: HUNGARIAN FALLS

The Keweenaw Land Trust’s 10-acre Hungarian Falls Nature Area includes the uppermost falls, historic dam, pond and some woodland trails that cross onto the property.

Visitors enjoy views of Dover Creek flowing through a short gorge, as well as three more waterfalls downstream of the dam and pond.

photo by Heather Johnson Durocher

Directions: Along M-26, west of Lake Linden in Tamarack City, turn

Heather Johnson Durocher and her family at Douglass Houghton Falls.

Directions: The falls can be accessed from above by parking on M-26. About halfway between Lake Linden and Calumet, watch for a pine stand with a faded orange flag tied to a small tree on the east side of the road. There is a trail behind the flagged pine that quickly skirts the creek and is about a five-minute walk to the top of the falls. Exercise extreme caution since the drop-offs here are sheer cliffs and very high. Our group of six decided to carefully hike down to the base of the falls, which provided gorgeous views while also ensuring a somewhat challenging climb back up!

CANYON FALLS

north onto 6th Street. Take the left fork (Golf Course Road) and drive up the hill 0.5 miles to an access road on your left marked by a closed gate. Park along the shoulder and hike in along this access road for 0.2 miles. Turn right at the fork to access the Hungarian Falls Nature Area, or turn left to visit the lower falls. Park at the bottom of the hill and hike up, or drive in from the northern end of Golf Course Road (off US-41), park at the end of the plow line and hike south to the falls.

This Baraga County attraction, easily accessible from a roadside picnic and parking area off US-41, provides lovely views along a scenic trail that hugs the Sturgeon River. Along the way, you’ll witness a series of rapids and small waterfalls before you reach Canyon Falls, also referred to as the “Grand Canyon of the U.P.” due to the impressive surrounding gorge. Keep walking to see two more defined drops, including a narrow pour into a popular cliff-jumping spot.

DOUGLASS HOUGHTON FALLS

Directions: Ten miles south of L’Anse on US-41, the roadside park is

These falls, which are Michigan’s tallest (110 feet from the top, where Hammell Creek flows, to its base), are quite the sight—and also a bit of a hidden gem that requires some planning and a sense of adventure. The Michigan Department of Natural Resources purchased the property in 2018 and the falls are open to the public, but the area is, as a friend at the DNR pointed out to me, “very much in its raw and natural state.” The DNR plans to make upgrades in the near future.

located on the right side of the road just north of a bridge over the Sturgeon River. Park here and follow the crushed rock trail to the main waterfall. Some spots allow for climbing down into the gorge onto large, flat rocks parallel to the river’s flow.

Heather Johnson Durocher writes from Traverse City, where she lives with her husband Joe and their three kids. She is the founder of the travel and active lifestyle site MichiganRunnerGirl.com and also hosts a weekly podcast.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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So

What’s

Your

Angle?

Three local fisherman take us to their favorite Northern Michigan waters for bluegill, trout and salmon, sharing tips along the way for preparing a fresh catch feast.

photos by TONY DEMIN

produced by ALLISON JARRELL

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1

B L U E G I L L Fisherman Dave Stepanovich, owner of Young’s Bait & Party Store in Alanson, shares tips for reeling in bluegill: A lot of people sit there with bobbers and get on a weed bed and just anchor, but I like to drift. You get up on where the wind’s blowing and you drift with the wind, and it takes you across the lake. If I start finding bluegills, I’ll put a marker out—they’re called buoys—so I know to drift by that spot again. The bottom line is, find out where the weed beds are and drift along the edge of the beds or through the beds if they’re not too thick. It’s just oldfashioned fishing.

TECHNIQUE:

I prefer leeches, probably over anything.

People also use leaf worms and crawlers.

B A I T:

The one thing that I promote a lot is Life Saver hooks. There’s a local guy who makes them—he brings them in to the shop twice a year or he’ll mail them to me. When you catch little bluegills, they suck the hook into their gullet, and you can’t get it out without killing them.

Well these Life Saver hooks, they have a piece of plastic on the end of them, and I catch just as many fish with these as I do with a regular hook.

I haven’t killed a bluegill in probably four years using those hooks, and I’ve caught 5-pound bass on them, too, and pike. You gotta get ’em at Young’s Bait & Party Store!

HOOKS:

The best time is when they’re on their beds and they’re protecting their eggs from predators—other fish will come and eat them, or ducks if they can get down far enough. In the springtime when they’re on their beds is the best time to fish ’em, but you can fish bluegills all year round.

SEASON:

Left: Dave Stepanovich gets ready to cruise Crooked Lake on the hunt for bluegill.

Opposite: Dave’s preferred fishing technique involves drifting over weed beds and using leeches for bait.

DAVE’S FAVORITE RECIPES

Fried or Grilled Bluegill Frying: A lot of people want to use batters from the store, like Drake’s. But those are so thick, that you just want to peel it off and eat the fish. For frying, I skin the bluegills. Then get some flour out and whatever spices you like: Old Bay Seasoning, a little bit of garlic powder, some pepper, etc. Just add those to the flour, lightly dust the bluegill and throw them in the frying pan. As soon they get brown, flip ’em over. If they’re brown, they’re done. It doesn’t take long to cook bluegills. You get some hot grease going—I use regular Crisco oil—and throw them in there and they’re done.

Grilling: When I put them on the grill, I like to scale the bluegills and keep the skin on. Then I soak the fish in a baggie with Fustini’s oils (I like their mandarin olive oil and garlic olive oil and some sesame vinegar). Marinate it with flavors you like, drain the oil off the fish and throw them on a copper grill mat. It’s healthy and real tasty.

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2

T R O U T Traverse writer and avid fisherman Drew VanDrie shares his advice for fly fishing for trout: Practice casting before you hit the river.

Building up your skill and confidence will make you more effective on the river when you need to make an accurate presentation. That being said, ugly casts still catch fish! Don’t become so obsessed with a beautiful back cast that you spend your whole time false-casting. Keep your fly on the water as much as possible because that’s where the fish are!

TECHNIQUE:

“buggy” qualities, rather than close imitation), drifting over seams, tailouts, undercut banks and alongside logs and other structures all help to lure out lurking brown and brook trout.

For particular trout patterns, your best resource is your local fly shop. They will steer you toward a handful of patterns to at least make you dangerous.

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE:

Exploring more river will inevitably make you a better trout fisherman. Finding less accessible water will yield trout that have experienced less fishing pressure, which yields better results for the angler willing to venture off the beaten trail (or trout stream).

Keep showing up and keep casting.

PAT I E N C E A N D P E R S I S T E N C E :

W A I T A N D S E E : It’s tempting to be overeager and immediately hop in the river and start stripping out line. Instead, sit by the bank and watch the potential lies, bugs on the surface, and hopefully, rising trout. (This is a great opportunity to sip that cold beer you slipped in your sling pack.) Check not only the surface but also overhanging riparian vegetation and grasses for insects. This will help clue you into what the fish are feeding on.

M AT C H

THE

H AT C H

OR

MAKE

In an ideal situation, the river surface is saturated with insects, and the trout in response are actively feeding. In this scenario, try to pluck a few insects that drift by for closer inspection and then match as closely as possible to what you have in your box.

The order of importance for matching is silhouette (matching the general shape of the insect), size and color. Like a well synchronized back cast, fly fishing is about timing, and hitting a hatch can take a lot of trial and error. Being on the water consistently will help you recognize better conditions for a solid bug hatch (along with a decent dose of luck).

YO U R OW N :

PROSPECTING:A

stretch of river dimpled with scores of blithely rising trout is the idyllic scene fly fishing aesthetes like to promote, but it’s often the exception rather than the rule. In this instance, a decent tactic is “prospecting.” Like a miner striking blindly for precious metal, prospecting is floating an enticing morsel overtop of where a trout likely lies. Utilizing an “attractor” or “stimulator” pattern (a larger fly that has numerous 22

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Clockwise: Patience, persistence and a little luck brings a lively brook trout to hand; after some stream-side observation, it’s time to rig up and ready your fly rod. Pick a fly but don’t be married to your selection. Hatches and conditions are always changing!

Opposite: Michigan abounds with hundreds of miles of cold, pristine trout water. Grab your fly rod, waders and a few trusty flies and chase down a blue line on a map. There may even be a few trout along the way.

DREW’S FAVORITE RECIPE

Grilled Whole Trout Fly fishing often adheres to the high-brow etiquette of catch-andrelease only. However, priggish decorum aside, it is undeniable that fresh-caught trout are delicious. If you must quell your moral conflict but also assuage a gnawing appetite, occasionally keeping a brace of your smaller (though still legal) brook or brown trout can be admissible. Grilled whole trout is a delightful option for its simplicity, limited waste, and most important, its delectable flavor! A recipe so unencumbered that it could be enjoyed streamside with a frying pan, camp stove and a little forethought.

Preparation: To prep, make two slits behind the gills on each flank. Next, cut a slit along the belly of the trout from gills to anal fin. Then slip the knife blade under the small flap of skin on the underside of the bottom jaw. Grasp this small piece of flesh and pull rearward toward the tail, being sure to pull the gills with your thumb as you sweep tailward. This should remove the gills and internal organs. Finally, run your thumb along the backbone on the inside of the fish, using your thumbnail to clear out the blood vessels that run along the spine. Rinse with water and your trout is ready to cook.

Ingredients: Trout 1–2 Tablespoons olive oil Pinch of salt Pepper 1 teaspoon dill 1 minced garlic clove Lemon (sliced) Small onion (sliced) 2–4 Tablespoons butter Sprigs of rosemary and/or thyme 1. Preheat the grill on high heat.

2. Coat the skin of the fish with oil and sprinkle with salt. Sprinkle the interior of the trout with salt, pepper, dill and minced garlic. Place a few slices of lemon and onion on the inside cavity along with 1 to 2 pats of butter (depends on size of trout) and sprigs of herbs. Place trout on tin foil for cooking (makes for easier clean up).

3. Turn grill heat to medium and place tin foil on grill (or camp stove, frypan, etc.). Cover and cook 4 to 5 minutes per side, until flesh is flaky.

4. Remove from heat and enjoy! Use a fork to tease the meat from the skin and bones, and delight in a simple, satisfying meal.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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3

Left: Capt. Ben Wolfe fishes for coho salmon on Platte Bay in the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, where coho were originally stocked back in the ’60s.

Opposite: Capt. Ben Wolfe and Capt.

Jeff Mallory show off some fresh-caught coho salmon.

3 S A L M O N Captain Ben Wolfe of Sport Fish Michigan shares some salmon fishing wisdom: Here in Northern Michigan, we have three salmonid species to target: King or chinook salmon: the granddaddy of them all, reaching the largest weights and sizes. King salmon are highly prized by anglers and chefs alike. They swim the waters of Lake Michigan and Lake Huron, and many run into both East and West Grand Traverse Bays as well as river tributaries in the late summer and early fall to spawn.

Coho or silver salmon: smaller than the king salmon, but no less highly regarded on the table since they are slightly firmer and less fatty. Anglers love the tenacious nature of cohos on the end of a line. Coho salmon, similar to king salmon, spend their lives in Lake Michigan, running up some of the tributary rivers each fall to spawn, with the Platte River being one of the primary spawning runs.

Atlantic salmon: While not as common in the Lower Peninsula, they are the primary target for many anglers in the U.P. as the salmon travel through the Straits and the DeTour area on their way up to Sault Ste. Marie, where they spawn in the fall. Torch Lake has a great population of inland Atlantic salmon that anglers can take advantage of without having to fish the bigger waters of the Great Lakes. Atlantics top the list for table fare for many, and are the only salmonid species that we have that can spawn for multiple years.

SPECIES:

24

Michigan’s salmon spend the colder winter and early spring months in the southern portion of the lakes, making their way northward as the Great Lakes warm. Northern anglers don’t typically see salmon catches until sometime in June, and as the summer progresses, more and more fish begin to show up in the area, following schools of alewives, their primary forage. July, August and September are the prime months for king and coho salmon. Atlantic salmon have a slightly different schedule, moving through the DeTour area in June and early July, spending the summer in the St. Mary’s River and up in Sault Ste. Marie waiting until September to spawn.

L O C AT I O N A N D S E A S O N :

Northern Michigan has many charter boat and fishing guide companies that take advantage of the plentiful salmon species found here, and most of these companies also offer fish cleaning services at the conclusion of trips, giving customers fillets to take home. A charter or guide is advisable if you aren’t familiar with the techniques and nuances of targeting salmon. For those interested in a guide, it’s best to book early. (Sport Fish Michigan and its network of captains and guides specialize in salmon, and are already filling their summer and fall dates for king and coho salmon.)

CHARTERS AND GUIDES:

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BEN’S FAVORITE RECIPE

Salmon with Ginger Soy Marinade An NYC culinary school graduate and former professional chef, Ben shares this recipe with his customers who ask how to prepare their fresh catch.

Marinade prep time: 15 minutes Marinade time: 30 minutes Cook time: 5 minutes Ingredients: ½ cup soy sauce ½ cup sweet chili sauce 2 Tablespoons sesame oil 2 Tablespoons mirin (optional) 2 Tablespoons maple syrup 2 cloves of garlic, peeled 2 teaspoons of chopped ginger or a 1-inch section ¼ cup black and white sesame seeds (or just white sesame seeds) 2 Tablespoons cold butter or high heat oil per batch 1 medium-sized fresh king salmon fillet or 1 large fresh coho salmon fillet (about 1 to 2 pounds) skin removed and pin bones pulled. Lake trout would be a fantastic substitute here as well.

Equipment: Large cast iron skillet, nonstick pan or flat stove-top griddle.

Note: This marinade works best with a fish like salmon or lake trout, but is also perfect for thawed, peeled shrimp. If using this with shrimp, simply omit the sesame seeds and the steps involving sesame seeds.

Process: 1. In a blender or small food processor, combine all of the marinade ingredients except for the sesame seeds. Process for 30 seconds to fully incorporate and chop the garlic and ginger. Pour into a large bowl and set aside.

2. Slice the salmon starting at the tail on a severe bias, about 60 degrees to the counter to create hand-sized “shingle” pieces no thicker than your hand. Depending on the size of the fillet, 5 to 8 pieces can be expected. A smaller coho salmon fillet may yield only 4 to 5 shingles, and a larger king salmon fillet may yield 10 or so.

3. Put the salmon shingles into the marinade and turn gently to thoroughly coat each piece. Set aside on the counter to marinate for 30 minutes.

4. Preheat the griddle or skillet on medium-high heat.

For cast iron skillets or griddles, make sure to thoroughly preheat for at least 5 minutes to ensure even heat distribution.

5. While the skillets or flat top griddle is preheating, move the salmon shingles from the marinade onto a cookie sheet and sprinkle generously with the reserved sesame seeds on one side only. The sesame seed side will be the presentation side.

6. When the griddle is hot, add the cold butter. It should melt and foam immediately and begin to brown right away.

Swirl the butter to coat the pan or griddle completely.

7. Add the salmon shingles to the hot skillet, sesame side down.

8. Cook the salmon 3/4ths of the way through on the initial side before flipping. The edges will change color and become slightly opaque as they cook. The shingles will cook very quickly, 2 to 3 minutes on this side.

9. Flip the shingles and turn off the heat and let cook another 30 to 60 seconds before removing. Serve immediately.

10. If cooking additional batches, wipe out the skillets or griddle with paper towels in between each batch.

Add fresh butter before each batch.

Note: I like to serve this with a coconut jasmine rice.

To make it, simply replace the water with a high-quality coconut milk, add a tablespoon of sugar to the jasmine rice and then cook as normal.

Allison Jarrell is the managing editor of Traverse Magazine. Reach her at allison@mynorth.com.

Tony Demin is a replanted local from Montana. His photos capture the between moments in living wild. tonydemin.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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3/7/22 9:20 PM

IN VINO VERITAS

(THAT HAS BEEN CRAFTED FROM GRAPES THAT ARE BIODYNAMICALLY GROWN IN AN OPTIMAL SOIL MATRIX)

HOW A LOCAL WINEMAKER IS BRINGING BACK-TO-BASICS FARMING PRACTICES TO THE UP NORTH VINEYARD SCENE. B Y G R E G TA S K E R / P H O T O S B Y J A C Q U E L I N E S O U T H B Y

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AT

FIRST GLANCE,

THE MODEST

WHITE FARMHOUSE TUCKED OFF THE MAIN HIGHWAY THROUGH ELK RAPIDS COULD SIMPLY PASS AS ANOTHER QUAINT WINE TASTING ROOM, THOUGH ONE PLANTED FAR OFF THE WINE TRAILS OF NORTHERN MICHIGAN. A flower and vegetable garden blooms behind the 1920s-era house, but no vineyards surround the tidy property. And that’s not uncommon among Michigan wineries—many tasting rooms are located along main roads or downtowns, near potential customers but away from vines and winemaking operations.

The first clue that something truly different is sprouting at BOS Wine can be found with a closer inspection of the handsome green-and-white sign on the front lawn. It reads BOS Wine Garden. While the flowers out back offer an idyllic spot to sip outdoors, the garden is just as much a metaphor for what owners Dave and Jackie Bos are striving to accomplish with their vineyards, and beyond.

The couple, who moved to Northern Michigan from California four years ago, is passionate about farming and biodynamic agriculture—methods Dave became familiar with while tending vineyards in Napa Valley. A form of organic farming, biodynamic agriculture eschews pesticides and chemicals, turning instead to natural composting materials from the farm to nurture the soil.

“The BOS Wine Garden gives us a great way to talk about farming and what we’re doing with biodynamics,” says Dave, who got his wine feet wet decades ago in the cellar at Chateau Grand Traverse on Old Mission Peninsula. “It’s like a chef tasting and talking about arugula or carrots fresh from a garden, all grown biodynamically.

There’s such a difference in taste and quality, and it’s the same with wine.”

Biodynamic methods, Dave says, bring health and vitality to a farm. They involve composting, planting cover crops and using biodynamic preps—made from herbs, mineral substances and manure—in field sprays and compost to

)

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influence the soil. It’s also about working with the rhythms of nature, and learning that chores like planting and pruning are better on some days than others.

Their mission, as you might have guessed, is to produce worldclass wine through biodynamic farming and to encourage others in the state’s flourishing wine industry to follow suit.

“For me, it’s super exciting,” Dave says. “The greener we can make Northern Michigan, the more appealing we are to tourism of all kinds. The garden is a great and useful tool for us, an example of what we’re doing.”

It’s not just their farming methods that separate BOS from other Michigan wineries. The couple is also working with growers in both California and Michigan to source biodynamically grown grapes for their wines, which are all made by Dave. The California wines are tended at a winery in Rutherford, California; in Michigan, Dave oversees his wines in the facilities at Mari Vineyards.

Producing and serving Michigan and California wines is a business model like no other in the Great Lakes State. It’s one that might raise eyebrows among die-hard Michigan vintners (though getting wine grapes from other states is not uncommon, especially during difficult growing years), but given the paths Dave and Jackie have traversed in life, their Michigan-meets-California concept makes sense.

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Dave grew up in Holland, Michigan, and Jackie in California. They met while Dave was working as a vineyard manager at Grgich Hills Estate in Napa Valley, where all 367 acres of vines are cultivated biodynamically.

Jackie was a senior project manager at a landscape firm. (Grgich Hills Estate, by the way, was cofounded by Mike Grgich, the winemaker behind the famous 1973 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay, a Napa Valley wine that bested French white wines in a 1976 blind tasting that has become famous as the Judgment of Paris.)

The couple married in 2008. Their passions and talents aligned and they created a vineyard consulting firm. With access to high-quality fruit, it wasn’t long before Dave and Jackie began producing their own wine—their first vintage, a California Syrah, in 2010—and planting the seeds to create their own winery.

Looking to grow their family and their business (they have two children, Della, 10, and Olsen, 8), Dave and Jackie began searching for property outside of expensive Napa Valley, mostly up and down the West Coast. However, frequent visits North during family trips, and solid connections with Michigan winemakers and others, convinced them to settle just outside Traverse City.

“The wine industry has really taken off in Michigan,” Dave says. “When you look at how exciting the last four or five years have been here, the potential for Northern Michigan to grow more wine grapes and grow grapes in other areas of the state is phenomenal. We haven’t been at this very long. There’s so much more to figure out.”

The couple bought a 10-acre farm in Williamsburg with the intent of opening a winery there.

Unfortunately, labor issues related to the pandemic prompted them to change their minds and they purchased the renovated farmhouse—a former coffee shop—in Elk Rapids. While they have planted mostly flowers at the wine tasting room’s garden, they do plan to plant vines on their farm in the spring, as well as orchards, and create a working biodynamic farm. They believe the region east of Grand Traverse Bay and Old Mission Peninsula, from Traverse City to Elk Rapids and beyond, has the potential to grow wine grapes.

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“I’ve long been a proponent of that’s the coast to be looking at,” says Bryan Ulbrich, owner and winemaker at Left Foot Charley in Traverse City, who has been helping the couple as they establish roots in the industry. “We’ve been actively farming there with a couple of different farms for quite a while. There’s no reason that area would not be great to grow grapes.”

The region, Bryan says, has the right soil matrix, varying topography, and lies east of East Bay, which is deeper than

“DAVE COULD HAVE GONE ANYWHERE. He was working

in one of the best growing regions in the world. Why would he come here? It’s flattering and it’s a good sign that we are continuing to grow and get more complex as an industry.” -BRYAN ULBRICH West Bay, helping moderate growing conditions. To the west lies Torch Lake, the deepest inland lake in the state, which Bryan says also has an influence. In addition, the region grows the same fruits as the Leelanau and Old Mission peninsulas, both well-known grape-producing regions.

“It’s fun to see that side of the bay get some more momentum—good things are happening there,” Bryan says.

For Dave and Jackie to locate their winery in Michigan, Bryan adds, is a good indicator of where the industry is headed. “Dave could have gone anywhere. He was working in one of the best growing regions in the world. Why would he come here?” he says. “It’s flattering and it’s a good sign that we are continuing to grow and get more complex as an industry.”

Since returning to Michigan, Dave has been working with several other vineyards, including Mari on Old Mission, where more than 60 acres of vines are being transitioned to organic farming.

“Michigan is going greener,” Dave says. “If you look at some of the best wineries in the world, many of them are doing biodynamic farming. A lot of people see the benefits—it has taken sick vineyards and made them healthy again.”

And there’s no better stage to taste the difference than at BOS Wine Garden, where even the tasting protocol differs from most wineries. While walk-ins are welcome, BOS has opted for seated tastings, by reservation. The contemporary wine room is decorated in neutral colors and minimal artwork, emphasizing the This page: Owners Dave and Jackie Bos; The Ames Street farmhouse and wine garden in Elk Rapids.

Opposite: Tasting experiences include five wines grown in both Michigan and California from vineyards that Dave has either personally farmed or consulted on; Wishflower is a blend of pinot gris, gewürztraminer and riesling.

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wine and food experience. The room seats just 22 people.

Guests can choose from two tasting options: one focused on small-batch wines; the other, wines paired with a curated charcuterie board.

“We like to push the envelope,” says Jackie, who designed the company’s wine bottle labels. “We are highly focused on the wine tasting experience and our wine club.

We want people who come in here to be part of the wine club and to learn about the farming process, to learn about where the grapes come from. Wine is like the art on the walls. Wine is an art form.”

That experience was top-notch for Jenna Veiga and Ben Gulow, both of whom have ties to Michigan’s wine industry.

“The experience was unmatched,” says Jenna, a former marketing and events manager at Mari Vineyards. “You really don’t see such cultivated tasting experiences in this area.

I felt like I was having a one-on-one tasting, and the food pairing was excellent.”

Ben, who is the tasting room manager at 45 North Vineyard & Winery in Lake Leelanau, noted the extra care and attention to detail. The tables were already set for their group upon arrival and tasting notes had a personalized message for each guest.

This page: Wine Club Manager Elizabeth Serrano; The curation experience pairs five wines with meats, cheeses and accouterments; Dave and Claudine Petzold at Ten Hands Vineyard on Old Mission Peninsula. Claudine and her husband Tom grow grapes for BOS Wine.

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^

THE BOS WINES The BOS portfolio includes sparkling, rosé, white and red wines. The white wines are produced from grapes grown in Northern Michigan vineyards. The reds are culled from vines in California’s Mendocino County and Napa Valley. The first Northern Michigan red to be featured in the BOS Wine portfolio will be a blaufränkisch from Vineyard 15 on Old Mission Peninsula that’s expected to be released as early as this spring.

“It set the tone for the experience from the beginning,” he says. “The wines were presented with finesse and an education on what they were and what made them special. It made for a connection to each wine that I think in a rushed tasting or flight setting is hard to do.”

That blend of California and Michigan wines in a Michigan tasting room hasn’t bothered customers either.

“What I like about the BOS Wine model is its transparency,” says Gina Shay, a member of the Michigan Wine Collaborative, a nonprofit group that supports and promotes the industry. “The BOS wine family celebrates their origins and history in both California and Michigan while being a sound business model in a cold-climate wine-growing region.”

Jenna, noting that some wineries hide the use of nonMichigan grapes in their products, was also impressed with the transparency.

“I think it’s a wonderful way to compare and contrast the two regions, while managing expectations for those who are only used to the ‘big California red’ style of wine,” she says.

“His tasting structure allows guests to enjoy each individual wine for what it is, and not follow suit of comparing Northern Michigan grapes to California ones.”

The reaction has tickled Dave.

“I get people who say, ‘I really don’t like Michigan wine,’ or ‘I don’t like California wine,’” he explains. “I say, ‘Why not? Let me tell you about Michigan wine. Let’s talk about California wine.’ It’s part of our story, part of our narrative.”

The tasting room experience and that garden in the back are equally part of the narrative. Working with family and friends, the couple created the garden while preparing the grounds for opening. That garden, where the sunflowers stood tall late last summer, connected Dave and Jackie to the place their journey began, in California, where they planted their first garden together. That garden was a tool that helped them tell the story of biodynamic agriculture and wine. Now their garden, and their story, are planting roots in Michigan.

Greg Tasker is a Traverse City-based freelance writer and works part-time at a winery on the Leelanau Peninsula.

Jacqueline Southby is a commercial, architectural and portrait photographer based in Traverse City. southbyphotography.com

2020 BOS METHODE AGRICOLE

The name of this light sparkling wine is a play on the original way of making bubbly, known as the pét-nat method (natural fermentation is interrupted and finished in the bottle). This bubbly, ripe with floral and citrus notes, is made from Valvin muscat, a hybrid grape, with a little chardonnay and gewürztraminer blended in. The Valvin muscat comes from Crystal Vista Vineyards near Interlochen. “This wine is so pretty, with these aromatic whites,” Dave says. “It’s not overly acidic and has light bubbles. It’s very approachable.”

2017 BOS WISHFLOWER

The primary source for this popular (and unusual) blend of co-fermented pinot gris and gewürztraminer with riesling is Bridgadoon Vineyard on the Leelanau Peninsula. Wishflower showcases the characteristics of distinctive vines and the differences that occur between vintages. Dave likes cofermenting grapes, saying, “You cannot control what comes of that. It’s exactly what I want sometimes.” This blend showcases the floral attributes of gewürztraminer and the weightiness of pinot gris, with lemon oil and honeysuckle. The name comes from his children’s reference to dandelions, hard to come by in California, as wish flowers.

2017 MOON BOS

One of three California reds, Moon is a blend of syrah and petite sirah from biodynamic vineyards in the Golden State. The wines produced from these vines are good examples of reds from outside Napa Valley and are driven by acidity at the front of the palate. Dave finds a freshness in Moon BOS that you don’t always get in California reds. “I want people to come into the tasting room and experience this amazing California wine that tastes great and is affordable,” he says. The blend is fermented in natural oak and shows notes of lavender and dried cherry.

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2022 TASTE MAKERS Six innovators who are changing the food and beverage conversation in Northern Michigan Photos by Michael Poehlman Styling by Sarah Peschel 32

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Produced and edited by Stacey Brugeman

with writing and reporting by Elizabeth Edwards, Deborah Fellows, Allison Jarrell, Carly Simpson and Rachel Soulliere

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FORTY YEARS AGO,

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine was a nascent title sending its eighth issue to the printer. The editorial team was writing about Bernie Rink, Ed O’Keefe, Jr., Larry Mawby and Bruce Simpson—all of whom had recently planted the region’s first wine grapes. Pete Peterson hadn’t opened Tapawingo yet—he was working at Wes Westhoven’s The Rowe Inn. Westhoven, a pioneer in incorporating Up North ingredients into fine dining, famously referred to the region prior to his arrival as a “culinary wasteland.” Thanks to the work of these visionaries and many who followed, Northern Michigan has long since shed that moniker.

Beginning in 2009, Traverse City was deemed a food destination by various national titles, including Midwest Living, USA TODAY and Bon Appétit. More recently, Food & Wine included the region as a viticulture area worth visiting in 2021, and Farm Club was one of 12 national winners in Bon Appétit’s most recent annual awards issue. While it will forever be the woods and the water that call us to this still-rural region, the ability to also eat and drink well is welcome, and there has never been a better moment to more officially recognize the remarkable humans who make that possible.

Months ago, Traverse reached out to food and beverage personalities throughout the state and beyond, asking which Northern Michigan culinary innovators they most respect. We wanted to hear who was outstanding not only at making chocolate or distilling spirits (to us, excellence in a core craft was a prerequisite), but also—beyond that—who was changing the conversation. We wondered who was poised to usher in Northern Michigan’s next culinary chapter while still honoring its past. We heard about chefs, winemakers, bartenders, farmers, baristas, grocers and maître d’s. After months of research, countless due diligence interviews and oh-so-many meals, it is a joy to share our winners. In the pages that follow, you will meet a Traverse City baker who’s rethinking the way people in hospitality are paid, a Mackinaw City grocer who moved north to address Native food sovereignty and a Falmouth artisan who is setting a new bar for Michigan cheesemaking. You’ll hear about a Marquette brewer who bravely brought complex saison-style beers to the North, a certified-organic farmer in Petoskey who has big ideas for a more sustainable future and a talented Traverse City chef who spends as much time supporting the progress of the area’s rising stars as she spends on her own impressive career. Without further ado, these are your 2022 Traverse Tastemakers. —STACEY BRUGEMAN

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JENNIFER BLAKESLEE Chef and Mentor in Chief

THE COOKS’ HOUSE, TRAVERSE CITY

A

s a Michigan native, early champion of the farm-to-fork movement in this region and one of the most adept chefs in our state, some might see The Cooks’ House Chef and Co-owner Jennifer Blakeslee as more of a queen of northern cuisine than a rising innovator— but they’d be overlooking the vital platforms she’s creating for both peers and protégés to change the conversation.

After falling in love with the intense seasonality of food while working at a high-mountain ranch in Colorado in the mid-’90s, Blakeslee went on to work in Las Vegas under celebrated chef André Rochat, whose Andre’s restaurant earned its first Michelin star during her tenure. In 2006 she returned to Traverse City, a single mom ready to work, only to be told “women don’t belong in the kitchen.” “It was crazy to me, but that was just the culture of it,” she recalls.

So, in true pioneering fashion, Blakeslee opened her own restaurant, The Cooks’ House, with Las Vegas colleague and fellow talent Eric Patterson.

Fourteen years and two locations later, a meal in their petite 26-seat restaurant is as exciting as ever.

Blakeslee’s commitment to using and crediting area farmers, and her respect for ingredients from regional fields and fisheries are alone worth celebrating.

But, it’s Blakeslee’s vision for mentoring rising chefs and fostering collaboration that makes her even more extraordinary. The annual Young Chefs Dinner series at The Cooks’ House gives this region’s rising stars an opportunity to present menu items of their own to a sold-out audience of serious foodies. Many participating cooks walk away from the event poised to open businesses of their own. Alliance, Rose and Fern, Sugar 2 Salt and forthcoming new openings Modern Bird and Conifer have all emerged from this series. And both an underground chefs-only potluck series that Blakeslee spearheads as well as a networking group called Northern Michigan Women In Hospitality that she helps steer, create social opportunities for back- and front-of-the-house players to collaborate, share notes and network.

All three of these initiatives, Blakeslee says, have created platforms for an array of conversations—from sourcing food to managing a restaurant. “I think we have a really healthy culture here right now with the cooks and restaurants,” she says. “It’s changed drastically since I first got here.” Her peers agree. It has changed—and will continue to change—thanks in large part to Blakeslee herself. —ALLISON JARRELL

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HOMETOWN: TRAVERSE CITY, MICHIGAN WHERE SHE GOT HER CULINARY DEGREE: JOHNSON & WALES, DENVER

A FEW FAVORITE RESTAURANTS WHEN SHE’S OFF THE CLOCK: WREN, SAMSARA AND FORREST, A FOOD STUDIO

A MEMORABLE MEAL: GOAT STEW WITH HOMEMADE TORTILLAS AT A CONSTRUCTION SITE IN MEXICO IN HER FRIDGE AT HOME: BREAD, BUTTER,

BUBBIE’S BAGELS AND CONDIMENTS. “I WOULD SAY THREE-QUARTERS OF THE FRIDGE IS CONDIMENTS,” BLAKESLEE SAYS.

MOST USED COOKBOOK: “THE FLAVOR BIBLE” (LITTLE, BROWN AND COMPANY, 2008) BY KAREN PAGE AND ANDREW DORNENBURG ADVICE FOR RISING STARS: “READ A LOT, TRAVEL A LOT, COLLABORATE A LOT AND LOVE WHAT YOU DO.”

“I think going forward, you’re going to see more local seasonal foods being used with a lot more care and creativity. There are some amazing cooks here right now. It wows me all the time.” —JENNIFER “JEN” BLAKESLEE

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BRIAN BATES

Organic Farmer and Forthright Philosopher

BEAR CREEK ORGANIC FARM, PETOSKEY

B HOMETOWN: HERNDON, VIRGINIA FAVORITE COOKBOOK: “SCANDINAVIAN COMFORT FOOD” (QUADRILLE PUBLISHING, 2016) BY TRINE HAHNEMANN

FARMERS HE RESPECTS: PAUL AND SANDY ARNOLD OF PLEASANT VALLEY

FARM IN ARGYLE, NEW YORK

HIS FAVORITE VEGETABLE AND WHAT HE DOES WITH IT AT HOME: CHERRY TOMATOES, WHICH HE AND HIS WIFE ANNE HALVE, PAIR WITH MICRO BASIL AND MOZZARELLA PEARLS AND EAT WITH A SPOON

FAVORITE TRADE MAGAZINE: GROWING FOR MARKET CHANGE HE’D LOVE TO SEE: “A LOT OF FOOD MARKETING IS ABOUT WHAT IT ISN’T. NO GMO, NO FAT, NO CARBS,” SAYS BATES, WHO WANTS TO CELEBRATE WHAT IT IS. “IT IS HYPER LOCAL. IT IS GROWN WITH LOVE. IT IS NUTRIENT DENSE. IT IS CERTIFIED ORGANIC.”

“To our core, we passionately believe that what we’re doing is good for our family, good for our community, good for our workers, good for this earth.”

—BRIAN BATES

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rian Bates is an open book. Want to know which tomato variety will grow best in your garden? Curious about soil health and pH levels? Together with his wife, Anne, Bates operates Bear Creek Organic Farm, which is not only the first B Corp-certified farm in the state, but also one of the most transparent farms we know. Customers (and peers throughout the Midwest) leave Bates’ gorgeous, newly opened market with more than just leafy greens, plump broccoli and suggestions for how to cook them.

They also go home with vegetable plants, and the knowledge needed to grow them.

Bates graduated from Penn State’s Schreyer Honors College with a degree in geography and environmental studies, and as a result chose to become a farmer. “Our desire to get involved with food production stemmed directly from our concern about the impacts of climate change,” says Bates. A native of Virginia, he visited 40 states before choosing to put down roots here in 2013. Thanks to its latitude and abundance of fresh water, Northern Michigan is a “more climate-resilient community,” says Bates, who was Petoskey’s first 100 percent USDA Certified Organic farmer.

Even in this climate-cushioned part of the country, Bates has ideas for a more responsible—and affordable—future. And, true to form, he’s happy to wax poetic about his vision while you’re picking out your potatoes. “I think growers are going to need to carve out niches.

Somebody is going to need to get pretty doggone good at beets, radishes, carrots … somebody else is good at leafy greens,” he explains.

“Then, they’re able to find a sweet spot where they don’t need infrastructure and equipment for every type of crop, and as marketers, they’re able to focus on selling similar crops with similar seasonality.” In Bates’ mind this would, in turn, allow small, regional farmers to achieve efficiency and economies of scale that could create an opportunity to reduce prices. A farmer who wants to make local, organic produce accessible and affordable? That’s someone we can all celebrate. —CARLY SIMPSON

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JASON GOLLAN

Baker and Employer Extraordinaire

COMMON GOOD BAKERY, TRAVERSE CITY

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ason Gollan grew up “eating real, crusty bread” from a French baker in his small New England hometown. Four decades later, he is turning out some of the best crusty bread in Northern Michigan. Common Good Bakery—beloved for its morning buns and naturally leavened pain au levain (known to Gollan’s faithful following as “French Peasant”)—was born out of Gollan’s many years toggling back and forth between desk jobs and bakeries, including Wild Oats in Boulder, Noe Valley Bakery in San Francisco and Crescent Bakery in Frankfort. When Gollan opened Common Good in 2017, he set out not only to make consistently impeccable boules and laminated pastry but also to give back. In the almost five years since, the aptly named bakery has donated to TART Trails, the Women’s Resource Center and countless other organizations. The group to whom Gollan is especially committed, however, is his employees.

“I’m defining a whole new way of compensating people in hospitality,” the baker says of a payment shift that the food universe is facing increasing pressure to contend with. Using county-specific data published by an economic geographer at MIT, he makes sure his hourly wages are “as good or better than anything else in town.” Gollan— who holds degrees from the University of Colorado and Michigan State’s School of Hospitality Business and trained at the San Francisco Baking Institute—shares customer tips with every member of the team. Whether you are Gollan’s dishwasher, barista or even his salaried executive chef, he offers employees a set schedule that includes two consecutive days off and a “gold level” benefits plan, both of which are rare in the industry. Working for Gollan is so attractive that an interior architect and a Realtor recently followed their passion for baking and left their former careers to become Gollan’s head baker and run his viennoiserie program, respectively. As it turns out, making excellent bread while also treating employees well is good for business: Common Good recently announced it will open a second location on the east side of Traverse City. In addition to his existing bakery offerings, the new opening will include a 50-seat dining area with a full pizza and pasta menu, with further plans for growth in the works.

—STACEY BRUGEMAN

“We’re trying to give people an experience. Something beyond the product to connect with so that we can, together, create shared meaning.” —JASON GOLLAN

HOMETOWN: PETERBOROUGH, NEW HAMPSHIRE WHY NORTHERN MICHIGAN REMINDS HIM OF NEW HAMPSHIRE: “COMMON SENSE IS STILL COMMON,” GOLLAN SAYS.

COMMON GOOD BAKERY BREAD THAT HE’S MOST EXCITED ABOUT: SPROUTED THREE GRAIN

BUSINESS HEROES: NEW YORK CITY’S DANNY MEYER AND BOSTON’S JOANNE CHANG

BAKERS HE RESPECTS: ÉRIC KAYSER OF MAISON KAYSER IN PARIS, DAVID NORMAN OF EASY TIGER IN AUSTIN AND GABRIELE BONCI OF BONCI PIZZERIAS IN ROME, CHICAGO AND MIAMI FAVORITE BAKING COOKBOOK FOR HOME COOKS: “BAKING WITH JULIA” BY DORIE GREENSPAN

SOMETHING HE’D LOVE TO SEE IN TRAVERSE CITY: A BONAFIDE WINE BAR THAT POURS 100 PERCENT LOCAL WINES

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DAVE OMAR

Cheese Maker and Dairy Dreamer SALTLESS SEA CREAMERY, FALMOUTH

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HOMETOWN: WILLIAMSTON, MICHIGAN FAVORITE MAGAZINE: CULTURE. “IT’S A CHEESE INDUSTRY MAGAZINE I’VE SUBSCRIBED TO OVER THE YEARS, AND THE PHOTOS ALONE WILL MAKE YOU DROOL,” SAYS OMAR. HOW HE AND JOY EAT THE PARMICHIGANO AT HOME: “MY FAVORITE

THING TO DO IS STRAIGHT-UP EAT IT WITH APPLES AS A SNACK,” OMAR SAYS. BUT HE ALSO USES THE RINDS TO MAKE BRODO.

HIS FAVORITE AMERICAN CHEESE: AMERIBELLA BY JACOBS & BRICHFORD IN INDIANA

FAVORITE PLACE TO TRAVEL: ITALY AWARD HE’S PROUD OF: ORYANA’S 2021 CHEESE MADNESS TOURNAMENT

WHERE TO FIND OMAR WHEN HE’S OFF THE CLOCK: THE FILLING

STATION MICROBREWERY IN TRAVERSE CITY

“​​[Like] a lot of the other small producers of things here in Northern Michigan, I think what we’re trying to do is make a flavor that comes from here.”

—DAVE OMAR

ome of Dave Omar’s first memories are of his Syrian grandma—born in what is now modern-day Lebanon—cooking a warm snacking cheese called jibneh. This handed-down passion for cheese ultimately led the Lansing-area native to jobs at Zingerman’s, Whole Foods and Plum Market, where he was a cheesemonger. “It became an obsession, and I kept making batches of cheese at home, just like my Sittu did,” says Omar, founder of Saltless Sea Creamery.

Together with his wife, Joy (also a Zingerman’s alum), Omar moved to Northern Michigan in 2018 and began pursuing cheesemaking professionally. He introduced himself to Boss Mouse Cheese’s Sue Kurta, who agreed to take Omar under her wing as an apprentice. Omar ultimately broke out on his own and now makes more than five cheeses, including ricotta salata and a semi-firm cheese akin to aged provolone— both of which start with grass-fed milk from Moomers. The product we are most impressed by, however, is Omar’s one-year aged parmesanstyle cheese known as Parmichigano. Not only is it aged an impressive amount of time, it also expresses Omar’s deep commitment to terroir.

Omar is so committed to terroir, in fact, that he hopes to isolate a Michigan cheese culture.

While it’s commonplace in much of Europe for each region to start cheeses with a locally distinct “mother culture,” most U.S. cheese makers help milk coagulate using a starter culture that is produced by big business. Inspired

by Vermont’s Jasper Hill Farm, Omar would love to someday make a homegrown culture that comes from—and tastes like—Michigan.

“Eventually I’ll be able to say this is our state’s flavor profile,” Omar says. The cheesemaker also dreams of a Michigan dairy guild, which would better connect the many players of the sixth largest dairy state in the nation.

But first, Omar must find a permanent home.

Demand for his cheeses is so great that he has outgrown the space he is renting in Falmouth.

At press time, he was raising funds to buy a shipping container that is outfitted for cheesemaking, which is a start-up-friendly option that we’ve seen used from Connecticut to California.

Omar will then place the compact creamery on vacant land, a relocation project he hopes to complete by next year. Until then, Omar’s cheeses can be found at Oryana, Edson Farms and 9 Bean Rows…as long as you’re first in line.

—RACHEL SOULLIERE

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ROSEBUD BEAR SCHNEIDER Market Manager and Food Sovereignty Champion MINOGIN MARKET, MACKINAW CITY

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osebud Bear Schneider’s passion for Native food sovereignty—the right to healthy and culturally appropriate foods—began with the most fundamental nourishment of all: breastmilk. “We can’t talk about indigenous food sovereignty without talking about breastfeeding,” says Schneider. This epiphany was sparked by her work for American Indian Health & Family Services in Waawiyatanong (Detroit), where she grew up. From that awakening, Schneider began building on her Native heritage (she is Anishinaabe, Shawnee and Purepecha) to shape a unique career path that incorporated urban foraging, gardening, seed saving and lactation consulting—skills vital to Natives who are estimated to suffer food insecurity at a rate four times greater than other Americans.

In 2018, Schneider moved north with her family to become manager of Minogin Market. The market is an outlet for Ziibimijwang Farm, founded by the Little Traverse Bay Bands of Odawa Indians as a sovereign source of indigenous foods for the Native community in the Straits area and beyond.

When Covid-19 hit, Schneider made the difficult decision to shutter the market and began selling Ziibimijwang produce at area farmers markets.

Schneider reopened Minogin last summer, her zeal for the power of Native foods undaunted. From May through October, the market sells Nativegrown produce, indigenous-made pantry items such as maple sugar and house-ground cornmeal, grab-and-go meals like wild rice bowls and other healthy menu items, some of which she also prepares for tribal events.

Inspired by Native chefs Sean Sherman, Elena Terry and Crystal Wahpepah, Schneider is thinking beyond nutrition and exploring the exciting culinary potential of indigenous ingredients. Last year, crowds ordered up the market’s memorable bison chili, corn soup and whitefish tacos. “When you’re cooking, you’re giving part of yourself to people.

You’re feeding that person’s spirit,” Schneider says.

Schneider’s work to help ensure that her people are healthfully fed by their ancient culinary heritage is garnering respect from coast to coast. She was recently quoted by The New York Times, served as a keynote speaker for a Seed Savers Exchange webinar and is scheduled to make her national television debut this year. We’re honored to celebrate her right here at home. —ELIZABETH EDWARDS

“​​At our annual solstice celebration, we only had indigenous ingredients on the menu. Within the hour or so that people were eating, they got quiet. The only way I can explain it is that we watched their spirit.”

—ROSEBUD BEAR SCHNEIDER

HOMETOWN: MADISON HEIGHTS, MICHIGAN MEMORABLE PROFESSIONAL MOMENT: FEEDING NATIVE ENVIRONMENTAL

ACTIVIST WINONA LADUKE AT A MACKINAW CITY WATER PROTECTION EVENT

NEWEST COOKBOOK: “NEW NATIVE KITCHEN” (ABRAMS, 2021) BY CHEF

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NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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“​​We’re pretty old-fashioned. We’re truly relying on wild yeast and bacteria to do the things we want in the beer.”

—NICK VANCOURT

HOMETOWN: DAGGETT, MICHIGAN BREWERIES VANCOURT IS INSPIRED BY: BRASSERIE DUPONT AND ORVAL BREWERY IN

BELGIUM; UNIBROUE NEAR MONTREAL; MICHIGAN’S JOLLY PUMPKIN ARTISAN ALES

SAISON HE’S PROUD OF: TERRE A TERRE BREWED WITH CLASSIC INGREDIENTS FROM FRANCE AND BELGIUM SOMETHING WINE DRINKERS TALK ABOUT THAT HE WISHES BEER DRINKERS WOULD TALK ABOUT: TERROIR

MOST MEMORABLE BREWERY TOUR: CANTILLON, A CELEBRATED LAMBIC BREWERY IN BRUSSELS THAT IS BLANKETED IN SPIDER WEBS. “THEIR WHOLE THING IS NATURAL MICROORGANISMS,” VANCOURT EXPLAINS. “DON’T WORRY ABOUT THE SPIDERS— THEY HAVEN’T UNIONIZED YET,” HIS TOUR GUIDE JOKED.

IN RESPONSE TO OUR CALL FOR NOMINATIONS, TRAVERSE HEARD ABOUT MORE THAN 150 NORTHERN MICHIGAN FOOD AND BEVERAGE PROFESSIONALS WHO ARE RESPECTED BY THEIR PEERS. FOLLOWING EXTENSIVE RESEARCH AND DUE DILIGENCE, WE SELECTED 18 FINALISTS FOR THIS INAUGURAL PROGRAM, ALL OF WHOM ARE WORTHY OF PRAISE. WHILE WE ULTIMATELY SELECTED THE SIX WINNERS PROFILED IN THIS FEATURE, A COMPLETE LIST OF ALL 18 TASTEMAKER FINALISTS CAN BE FOUND BY SCANNING THIS QR CODE.

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NICK VANCOURT

Brewer and Superior Saisonnier BARREL + BEAM, MARQUETTE

I

learned a lot about good living from Grandpa Bert,” says brewer Nick VanCourt. Bert, a farmer and European beer lover, had more than an acre of gardens in Menominee County that provided “every meal” for his family. VanCourt also worked at a neighbor’s dairy farm starting at age 12, which further fueled his respect for agriculture—something you’ll taste in each of the complex Belgian-style farmhouse ales he now crafts at Marquette’s Barrel + Beam.

A graduate of the World Brewing Academy, which included classes in both Chicago and Munich, VanCourt cut his teeth in Madison, Wisconsin, before landing back in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, at Ore Dock Brewing Company, as head brewer. In 2016, VanCourt and his wife, Marina, purchased the historic Northwoods supper club, a sprawling 1930s log cabin that was a beloved destination restaurant for decades. The long-abandoned and dilapidated structure had become a home for squirrels, but is today a stunning brewery that includes an outdoor beer garden, a seating loft and—coming soon—a small kitchen with expanded dining options. Most importantly, the brewery houses an extensive tap list of Michigan-sourced beers and ciders.

Most of VanCourt’s offerings are barrel-aged with wild yeast, inspired by an Old World style that is still commonplace in Belgium and Northern France today (think: saison, lambic, witbier and bière de garde). “We’re truly relying on wild yeast and bacteria to do the things that we want in the beer,” VanCourt says. The style has been thus far underrepresented in Northern Michigan. All of Barrel + Beam’s beers are naturally carbonated for a champagne-like fizz, and several, the Wit’s End and Starry Eyed included, are barrelsoured—a process that can take anywhere from six months to a couple of years. “It’s not sharp like a kettle sour, and is a lot more approachable,” VanCourt says.

VanCourt recently began canning, and the distribution of his beers is steadily increasing. Excuse us while we celebrate the arrival of such sophisticated farmhouse ales here in the North by clinking foamy, heady glasses of VanCourt’s Spooky Kriek—a cherry lambic made with Traverse City malt, Williamsburg hops and Central Lake cherries. — CARLY SIMPSON Stacey Brugeman is a Leelanau County-based food and beverage writer and editor. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, and Eater. Brugeman served as Senior Food Editor for Denver Magazine, where she produced a celebrated Chef of the Year awards program.

Follow her on Instagram @staceybrugeman.

Michael Poehlman is primarily a portrait photographer living in Traverse City. He specializes in people and personalities, attributing much of his experience to living and working for many years in New York City and Sao Paulo, Brazil.

T R AV E R S E / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

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A P R I L / M A Y 2022

NORTHERN

For the Way You Live Up North

HOMES WITH A VIEW EAST JORDAN Stylish Barndominium

MULLETT LAKE

COLLECTIONS Blues in the Kitchen NORTHERN MOOD Shades of Spring

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inside APRIL/ MAY

2022

NORTHERN

28 08 18

38

features

departments

18 / BARNDOMINIUM BEAUTIFUL!

07 / EDITOR’S NOTE

A stylish home designed with room for an active family—and all of their toys.

28 / FULLER HOUSE

A hilltop home on Old Mission Peninsula sparkles with glamorous decor and panoramic views of sunsets over West Bay.

More Mr. Nice Guys!

08 / NORTHERN MOOD Beautiful Emergence

10 / COLLECTIONS Blues in the Kitchen

38 / BUILDING THE FAMILY HOME

Contractor Jamie Wilkins’ first home-building project will always be his sweetest.

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A MyNorth Media Publication Michael Wnek Cara McDonald

VP, SALES STRATEGY & OPERATIONS EXECUTIVE EDITOR

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Creating a space or curating an existing space, we promise a solution that fits your home and lifestyle.

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EDITOR’S NOTE

MORE MR. NICE GUYS!

S

with the underlying theme of an issue—the serendipitous thread that pulls it all together and makes the magazine especially memorable to the reader (and, yes, the editor). But other times the themes just pop out, as is the case this month.

I began sensing the theme when I started working on our story “Fuller House.” As you’ll read, the project was contractor Ben Maurer’s first solo job at the helm of Paul Maurer General Contracting, the business his father, Paul, started in the 1980s and built into one of the most prestigious building firms in Northern Michigan. Ben taking over the company, and me getting to write about his first home? That fact just made me smile. You see, I’ve known Ben since he was still in a car seat. He grew up with my daughters, and I can truly say he has always been a nice guy.

Then there is the story “Building the Family Home,” about contractor Jamie Wilkins of Trillium Shore. Jamie has built more than a dozen stunning, high-end homes in the region, including two that have been featured on our Northern Home & Cottage Home Tour. While it is no less stunning and well-built, the Trillium Shore home we are featuring in this issue is different. It is the first home Jamie ever built when he went out on his own, and it was for his parents. I had the pleasure of hearing the sweet story of how it all came about on a three-way phone call with Jamie and his mother, Mary Jean. Yep, in his own mother’s words, Jamie is a nice guy.

From its warm, fuzzy theme to the ideas you’ll get from these stories and the gorgeous photos, I think you’ll enjoy reading this issue as much as I enjoyed putting it together! ometimes i struggle

Bradley J. Butcher, AIA 989.705.8400 • sidockgroup.com Novi • Wyandotte • Lansing • Muskegon • Gaylord • Sault Ste. Marie • Tampa • Wellsboro, PA

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Elizabeth Edwards is senior editor of Northern Home & Cottage. Lissa@traversemagazine.com

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Northern Mood

Beau tiful Emer gence CURATED BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS

»

AS THE NORTHERN WINTER GIVES WAY TO SPRING, SOFT SHADES OF GREEN, CREAM AND POPS OF COLOR BLANKET THE FOREST. OPEN YOUR DOORS AND LET IT IN!

Mint and Cream Rug Earth Collection, Hilary Farr by Kaleen 2-by-3-feet: $129 / 10-by-14-feet: $3,266 Rectangles, Traverse City

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1. Flowers and Insects Set of four prints on linen in wooden frames; $220 Nest of Grand Traverse, Traverse City nestofgrandtraverse.com

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3. Hebron Glass Vase and Tillandsia Air Plant Hebron Glass, recycled and molten glass vase; $34 Tillandsia Air Plant; $10 Darling Botanical Co., Traverse City darlingbotanical.com

4. House Plant Watering Can Made of metal; holds 30 ounces; $27 Darling Botanical Co., Traverse City darlingbotanical.com

photos by David Weidner

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collections

KITCHEN BLUES Inspired by the hues of water, stone and sand, these kitchens capture a lakefront feel.

BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS

SAILING AWAY Location Pickerel Lake Builder Nick Fettig, Harbor View Custom Builders harborviewcustombuilders.com Architect Elaine Keiser ekarchitect.com

Blue is the homeowner’s favorite color, so kitchen designer Dawn Whyte used a pale blue glass tile backsplash that looks as fresh as a wave against the white cabinetry and sea glass–colored subway tile in this Pickerel Lake home.

Brass fixtures, cabinetry handles and pendants above the black-walnut island countertop hint at a nautical feel—a sentiment that is brought home with the cobalt blue island cabinets. “Blue is timeless, classic, soothing and on trend,” says Whyte. “It is a neutral enough color that can blend with almost everything bright or light. Blue evokes a calming essence and just makes you happy.”

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photo courtesy of Petoskey Kitchens

Kitchen Designer Dawn Whyte, Petoskey Kitchens petoskeykitchens.com

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KITCHEN BLUES

SPLASHED WITH AQUA Location Glen Arbor Builder/Renovation Kitchen Choreography kitchenchoreography.net Kitchen Designer Kitchen Choreography kitchenchoreography.net

Central to the renovation of a 1990s home on Sleeping Bear Bay was a kitchen redo. Angela Goodall and her team at Kitchen Choreography brought their inspired style to the task, beginning with a timeless backsplash of water-colored glass tiles by Ann Sacks. The white macaubas quartzite used on the countertops is the shade of beach stones, and the pantry door, painted a soothing aqua (Covington Blue by Benjamin Moore), pops against white walls and cabinetry like a lagoon by a white-sand beach. A bronze band around the custom range hood (fabricated by Kitchen Choreography) lends a nautical feel. The aqua pendant lights, hand-crocheted at the U.K. artisan lighting studio of Naomi Paul, offer a bespoke touch that reminds of old-time fishing nets.

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KITCHEN BLUES

COOL BLUE Location Old Mission Peninsula

When food photographer Amanda Abajian asked kitchen designer Sara VanderStelt of Creative Kitchens to help her renovate her Old Mission kitchen, she had a specific mission: “As a food photographer, creating balance between the food and its environment poses a constant challenge. Anchoring the background in cool colors allows the contrasting warmth in foods to stand out,” Abajian says. VanderStelt responded with inspirational, cool blue Shiloh Cabinetry painted in Restorative by Sherwin Williams. Corian countertops add to the watery calm and, says VanderStelt, latch hardware pulled it all together. Abajian added the warm red brick to complement the existing darker brick behind the double ovens. “My vision in designing this kitchen was to create a space where the warmth of family, friends and food are always the main focus,” Abajian says.

Vision accomplished!

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photo by Dan Zeeff

Designer Sara VanderStelt, Creative Kitchens creativekitchenstc.net

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house and home

BARNDOMINIUM BEAUTIFUL! ONE FAMILY DEMONSTRATES THAT THE ONLY THING BETTER THAN TAKING YOUR UP NORTH TOYS OUT TO PLAY MIGHT BE PUTTING THEM AWAY.

BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS / PHOTOS BY DAN HASTY

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he van solkemas—kevin, renita and their four

adult children—love Northern Michigan’s four seasons and they know how to make the most of them: hunting, fishing, boating, swimming, snowmobiling, skiing and sometimes just plain soaking in the scenery. Originally from East Lansing, the family honed their vacation skills in a condo on Lake Charlevoix in East Jordan as the kids were growing up. Then Kevin’s job took them to Chicago, and as years went by, it became more and more difficult to pull everyone together and head to Northern Michigan, so they sold the condo.

In 2014, Kevin and his (by then) two adult sons joined each other for a fishing trip that had them reminiscing about their once-upona-time East Jordan family vacations. Call those memories the beginning of the next chapter of Van Solkema Up North vacations. Kevin and Renita began searching for property to build a vacation home where their grown family could gather. Their search, focused on the East Jordan area, soon turned up 73 acres covered in sugar maples and tucked high in the hills overlooking the Six Mile Lake valley.

The day before the couple was to close on the property, Kevin and his youngest son drove up to look at it a final time before signing. It was a gorgeous October day and the maples were aflame with color. They drove his son’s pickup to a fern-covered clearing in the forest. “We threw down the tailgate, had lunch, and looking over this valley I thought, ‘If God ever permits me to build on this property, this is exactly where I’d do it.’” He and his son marked the spot by building a fire ring out of stones. Two years later, the Van Solkemas were able to purchase an adjacent 80-or-so acres, bringing their total property to 150 acres.

Four years later the couple, ready to

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build now, turned to contractor Craig Boyd of Boyd Construction Company, based in Petoskey. Boyd, in turn, introduced them to Michael Karr, a young, forwardthinking architect of North45 architecture also based in Petoskey. “We didn’t go to Karr saying, ‘Here’s the sort of plan we want you to build us,’” Kevin recalls. “We just went to him with the concept for a lodge that would achieve several purposes—a living space for the whole family to gather in, also as a deer camp setting.”

Beyond those features, the Van Solkemas wanted storage for their recreational vehicles—with the living and the storage all under one roof. “I call it a barndominium,” Kevin says. “The concept is really catching on with people who don’t have space at their waterfront, or the ability to store their recreational vehicles in a dedicated storage barn.”

The Van Solkemas’ wish list included two more

20

“WE THREW DOWN THE TAILGATE, HAD LUNCH, AND LOOKING OVER THIS VALLEY I THOUGHT, ‘IF GOD EVER PERMITS ME TO BUILD ON THIS PROPERTY, THIS IS EXACTLY WHERE I’D DO IT.’” -KEVIN VAN SOLKEMA

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important features that particularly appealed to Karr, who designs with an emphasis on sustainability: the use of as many natural materials as possible and a geothermal groundwater heating system—systems that are known for their energy and cost-efficiency.

“He nailed it,” says Kevin of the first set of conceptual drawings that Karr presented. While the Van Solkemas and Karr worked together to fine-tune the details, the 40-by-90-square-foot building is laid out basically the way Karr first drew it.

The front third, amounting to 1,200 square feet, is devoted to an efficient, uncluttered living space, while the rest is storage.

The open living area centers around a fireplace and chimney—clad in Elite Blue Granite Ledgestone, a natural stone—that reaches to the ceiling. Rough-sawn pine beams and ceiling cladding, and a polished concrete floor (which holds the radiant heat pipes from the geothermal system) round out the rustic look. The open kitchen, designed primarily by Renita, is simple. The commercial-sized refrigerator and freezer are actually housed in a pantry steps away from the kitchen to keep clutter down—a

layout that Renita says works just fine.

The lodge sleeps eight with one enclosed bedroom and an open loft/bunk room upstairs. While there is just one bathroom, Renita worked carefully with Karr on a design that can function comfortably for multiple people.

Among the bathroom’s features is a dressing room that completely closes off from the toilet and shower, and

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Creating one of a kind outdoor living spaces

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Design | Build | Luxury Outdoor Living 231-920-1583 nuneznurserylandscaping.com 24

MYNORTHTICKETS.COM 800.836.0717 125 PARK STREET TRAVERSE CITY, MI 49684

NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE APRIL/MAY 2022

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even a urinal that also has a door for privacy.

The handsome exterior evokes an American West or Australian Outback ranch home. But the finishes make it soar—Elite stone and reclaimed barn-wood exterior, rafter tails, decorative brackets, a horizontal fenestration of handsome dark-framed paned windows and, to top it all off, a Corten steel roof that has already rusted to an earthy red.

The Van Solkemas couldn’t be happier with the team who took the plan from blueprint to fruition: Michael Karr, Boyd Construction Company and Sean Cook from Lake Charlevoix Landscape who installed an organic, low-maintenance yard. And then there is excavator Hugh Lambert, who basically saved the day with a workable driveway that winds around wetlands and then up a steep incline. “When we first looked at the property we said, ‘Well, I guess it is up there, but there is no way to get to it,’” Kevin recalls. “Hugh said, ‘I can do this.’”

In just two years, the structure, christened Thunderwood Lodge, has indeed served as a hunting lodge, but it’s also been a family gathering space, a shelter during the pandemic lockdown, even a venue for both their daughter’s and their youngest son’s weddings. Meanwhile, it has safely stored the family’s vehicles. No doubt, this barndominium has more than proven its worth.

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resources Architect Michael Karr North45 architecture north45architecture.com Contractor Boyd Construction Company boydconstructioncompany.com Exterior Siding & Flooring Surfaces Material Gallery heirloomhardwoodflooring.com Geothermal Heating Top Notch Heating, Cooling and Geothermal topnotchheatandair.com Windows Old Mission Windows oldmissionwindows.com Landscaping Lake Charlevoix Landscaping 231.838.8663 Excavator Hugh Lambert Hugh’s Excavating 231.675.9564

When Northern Michigan is at your door,

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house and home

FULLER HOUSE

A TRICKY HILLTOP PARCEL AND FOND MEMORIES OF CHILDHOOD SUNSETS PROVIDE INSPIRATION FOR AN ELEGANT OLD MISSION HOME.

BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS PHOT OS BY PAU L M AU R E R G E N E R A L C O N T R ACT I N G

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S

ome

of

daw n

fuller’s

fo n d e st

memories from her childhood are of the Sunday drives she took with her family out on Old Mission to watch the sunset over West Grand Traverse Bay. She dreamed way back then of someday having a home on the peninsula.

That day finally came when Dawn and her husband, Cameron, decided to move with their three children from their house in the country north of Traverse City to Old Mission. Scouting homes for sale there, the couple toured one designed by architect John Kerridge. Dawn fell in love with it, but Cameron worried that the neighbors were too close.

The couple continued their real estate search, but this time looking for property with an eye to hiring Kerridge to design them a home similar to the one Dawn had loved.

When Coldwell Banker Realtor Kim Costanza showed the Fullers an undeveloped parcel on a hill overlooking West Grand Traverse Bay and Power Island—a view that would be accompanied by splendorous, near-nightly sunsets—they knew they’d found the place they wanted to call home. The first time

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the Fullers showed Kerridge their property he was as wowed as they were. But there was, he quickly realized, one issue: the top of the hill, where the Fullers naturally wanted their home, came to a virtual point. “There was about a 10-foot flat space where we could site the home,” says Kerridge.

Undaunted, Kerridge studied the topographic map carefully and determined that shaving 30 feet off of the hilltop would solve the problem. “Probably the biggest challenge with this building project was making sure we set that house properly to preserve the view,” Kerridge says.

And all that extra soil from excavating the hill? They could use it to build a long serpentine driveway to access the otherwise difficult-to-get-to site.

Kerridge went on to design a highly customized home for the

“PROBABLY THE BIGGEST CHALLENGE WITH THIS BUILDING PROJECT WAS MAKING SURE WE SET THAT HOUSE PROPERLY TO PRESERVE THE VIEW.” -JOHN KERRIDGE

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Fullers based loosely on the original home of his design that they had toured. A pattern of hipped roofs—which give the two-story home a feeling of hugging the site—are topped by a crow’s nest lookout on the third level. The home’s marine-blue siding coupled with the crow’s nest work to give the house a subtle nautical feel—a relaxed Up North style that belies its complicated structure. “The lookout was a technical challenge—there’s a lot of steel in that house,” Kerridge says.

To execute what promised to be a complex building project, finding an experienced contractor was key. Kerridge recommended Paul Maurer General Contracting, one of the region’s most respected building firms. After meeting Ben Maurer, Paul’s son, who had recently purchased the company from his father, the Fullers hired the firm. Maurer might have appeared new at the helm, but in truth, he’d been working for his father since a young age—riding his bike to job sites before he could drive. By 2014, he was managing individual projects and within two years had taken over general management of all projects. “I still remember Ben’s first words to us,” Dawn recalls. “‘We would love to build your legacy dream home for you.’”

Maurer and his crew were ready for the challenges inherent in the construction of the Fuller house. As it turned out, they were also up to the challenges that Covid-19 presented. “Covid enveloping the world in the middle of construction was probably the biggest curveball with this project,” Maurer says. “But luckily, we have an adaptable staff.

We really enjoy challenges—forcing us to be better, smarter and more efficient every day.”

Beyond Kerridge and Maurer, the third team player in the production was Dawn Fuller herself.

Dawn’s mother was a gifted interior designer, and Dawn decided early on in the project she wanted to be involved in the interior design. She worked with Kerridge and Maurer on the minutiae of each design. A camaraderie developed between the three, with Kerridge and Maurer acting as sounding boards for Dawn’s ideas, as well as helping her source materials and products. “I always say to have a great project you need great clients,” says Kerridge.

The resulting home is splendid indeed. Dawn’s style, which has elements of relaxed glamour, is evident with the 19-foot-high marble-faced fireplace in the great room, the custom trim work, ionic columns, crystal light fixtures and a generous use of white. Bonuses in the home include a music room, a theater room and a luxurious Napa-style pool and hot tub. The home’s pièce de résistance is a moon-shaped terrace off the great room from where the

BONUSES IN THE HOME INCLUDE A MUSIC ROOM, A THEATER ROOM AND A LUXURIOUS NAPA-STYLE POOL AND HOT TUB.

Fullers take in the summer sunsets.

Now completed and filled with the buoyant Fuller family, the home exudes a joyous spirit—one for which Dawn is quick to give the credit due to Kerridge and Maurer, with whom the family has forged special bonds. “Our building process was a true pleasure,” she says. “We are grateful for the ‘new family’ we inherited from this project!”

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It starts with a place.

Northern Home & Cottage 20

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We add clear communication, punctuality, collaboration, and exceptional craftsmanship.

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GALLERY AT PAULMAURER.COM \\ 231.941.1448 40 YEARS IN NORTHERN MICHIGAN

SAVE THE DATE THE 2022 NORTHERN HOME AND COTTAGE VIRTUAL HOME TOURS WILL PREMIER ON OCTOBER 28TH Tickets on sale in August on MyNorthTickets.com

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resources Architect John Kerridge 231.929.4240 Builder Paul Maurer General Contracting paulmaurer.com Landscaping Traverse Outdoor traverseoutdoor.com Built-ins / Custom Woodwork Paul Maurer General Contracting Wood Shop paulmaurer.com Countertops Stratus Marble & Granite stratusmarble.com

MODERN DESIGN. MADE FOR THE WAY YOU LIVE. Let Thomas & Milliken Millwork help you see Modern design differently.

MODERN DESIGN. MADE FOR THE WAY YOU LIVE. Let Thomas & Milliken Millwork help you see Modern design differently.

Doors & Windows Pella Windows & Doors of Western Michigan pellabranch.com All Floor Covering Bay View Flooring bayviewflooring.com Plumbing & HVAC D&W Mechanical dwmechanical.com Electrical Art Brezin Electric 231.946.8883 Drywall Surfaces, Inc. 231.929.9292

MODERN DESIGN. MADE FOR THE WAY YOU LIVE. Let Thomas & Milliken Millwork help you see Modern design differently.

Petoskey and Traverse City MI www.tmmill.com

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Petoskey and Traverse City MI www.tmmill.com

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2021 Marvin Lumber and Cedar Co., LLC.

©

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Explore

Recent articles about life up north, trip planning information, upcoming Northern Michigan events, and more!

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Outdoor Living at its Finest

Custom-built loans.

Rolling acres, country homes, and room to grow.

GreenStone can help build your dream of life off the beaten path. Contact your local GreenStone team to learn more about our unique financing options.

800-444-3276 www.greenstonefcs.com

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house and home

BUILDING THE FAMILY HOME IS THERE A GREATER HONOR THAN TO BUILD A LEGACY HOME—FOR YOUR OWN FAMILY?

BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS PHOTOS BY JACQUELINE SOUTHBY

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J

amie wilkins had just moved his family from downstate

to Traverse City, ready to go out on his own with his home-building company, Trillium Shore, when his parents asked him to build them a home on Mullett Lake, between the tiny town of Topinabee and the city of Cheboygan. The Wilkins family had vacationed on Mullett Lake since 1961 when Jamie’s grandparents retired there. Now it was his parents’ turn to retire to the lake.

While Jamie started out his career as a graphic designer, it didn’t take him long to realize he had building in his blood. His father had been a builder and Jamie sometimes accompanied him to look at jobs, which was always a learning experience. “I looked at building in all different stages and became familiar with the process,” Jamie says. His father, Kim, had a woodshop in the basement of the family home. “I built toys there; he built furniture pieces,” Jamie recalls.

“Dad was more left-brained and I am more rightbrained,” Jamie says. “He really enjoyed polishing the numbers. I prefer the design and physical hands-on nature of construction. Had our paths been more in sync we would have complimented each other well.” While father and son never got to work together on a professional basis, Kim was always on hand to offer advice as Jamie was building the Mullett Lake home—a fond memory for Jamie as his father recently passed on.

The property the senior Wilkins purchased on Mullett Lake is a sweet, wooded parcel known as Liberty Point.

The Wilkins wanted to honor the site with a homey, Up North design. The plan that their architect, Bloomfield Hills-based Ed Rinke, delivered is so charming that hikers, bikers and snowmobilers passing by often stop to say how much they like it. The core of the facade is clad completely in natural stone, while the rest is covered with cedar shingles painted a buttery cream shade. The NHC

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AS HIS PARENTS MIGHT SAY, YOU CAN TAKE THE BOY OUT OF THE WOODSHOP, BUT YOU CAN’T TAKE THE WOODSHOP OUT OF THE BOY. adjoining garage is differentiated with a white board-and-batten siding—a look that makes it feel like an old-fashioned bunk house. Two tall, thin arched windows add to the home’s whimsical feel. “You could imagine that little elves live there,” Jamie’s mom, Mary Jean, says with a chuckle.

The back of the house is all about windows—a near wall of them that extends from the downstairs and garden level through the second floor. “The focal point of the home is the lake,” Mary Jean says of the 167 feet of frontage that is the family’s summer playground. Among the various watercrafts stored on the beach or bobbing in the water is a wooden boat that Jamie built.

The home’s interior floor plan speaks to what the Wilkins wanted for their senior years: a home where they could age in place, as well as space generous enough for their entire family—their two children and spouses and their six grandchildren— could gather for Mullett Lake vacations. Those goals are accomplished with a ground-floor master suite and en suite guest room, three bedrooms and two bathrooms upstairs and a bunk room. “Everybody has their space, even the dogs,” Mary Jean says. When they aren’t on the beach—rainy days and evenings— NHC

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the family congregates in the great room where a massive, floor-to-ceiling natural stone fireplace, handsome pine trim and built-ins (all fabricated by Jamie) and Mary Jean’s lovely traditional decor make the great room warm and inviting.

Working with just one friend who signed on to help, it took Jamie just over a year to build the home. The experience was invaluable for his growth as a builder. “It was my first full-on siding and trim job where I had a lot of control,” Jamie says. “I could really work through problems myself, not just do what someone was telling me,” he adds, citing building the coffered ceiling as an example. “Laying out where the lights go is never as straight-forward as it looks on the drawings.” Where the fireplace met the beams on the ceiling was another tricky spot that meant Jamie had to taper the width of the chimney to fit between the straight-angled beams.

Since building his parents’ home, Jamie has built Trillium Shore home by home (both new builds and renovations) into one of the most prestigious home building companies in Northern Michigan. Jamie specializes in a boutique approach, building custom pieces for his clients (furniture, architectural components including corbels and brackets and even wooden boats) in his side business, Wilkins CraftWorks. As his parents might say, you can take the boy out of the woodshop, but you can’t take the woodshop out of the boy.

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Total Commitment to Quality

resources Architect Ed Rinke Bloomfield Hills

More than 25 years of experience in building distinctive homes while exceeding the expectations of discriminating clients. jim@cooleycontracting.com

Builder Jamie Wilkins Trillium Shore trilliumshore.com Plumbing Werner Plumbing & Heating wernerplumbing.com Stone Masonry Drake Masonry drakemasonryinc.com

LOCAL TICKETS ONE PLACE

Painting Johnson’s Home Decorating Center johnsonshomedecoratingcenter.com

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Giving You That Custom Look Without The Custom Price

Dura Supreme craftsmen take great pride in every cabinet they build. Our kitchen design center would be happy to show you various wood choices, door styles, and finishes to choose from. Call 231.325.4551

Add Dura Supreme throughout your home

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T he Cu l i nary North local cuisine . drinks . restaurant guide

D I N I N G OUT

HYGGE HANGOUT

by CARLY SIMPSON

Modern winery meets legit espresso bar meets your family living room.

photos by Allison Jarrell

W

hen nicole and bo White purchased the 20-year-old Gill’s Pier tasting room and vineyard in Northport, they wanted to bring something new to the table. So, when laying the plans for their newly opened Dune Bird Winery, they designed a space that’s intentionally geared toward families and non-wine drinkers, offering espresso and small plates, too.

The renovated tasting room is bright and open with two glass garage doors (one for indoor/outdoor bar service when the weather allows), stainless-steel countertops, oversized leather furniture, sheepskin rugs and a blue velvet couch tucked in front of a fireplace.

“The mood is cozy and warm, intentionally shunning commercial-grade for, dare I say, living room,” Nicole says. The couple’s two children helped create “Dune Bird Boxes,” filling them with decks of cards, matchbox cars, stickers and crayons. There are also kids’ books and games, and come summer, a playset and sandbox so parents can relax with a sip while kids stay busy.

Nicole and Bo are “very much in phase one” with the project, and guests can expect some fun additions in the coming months, including an expansive outdoor seating area, live music, a barn venue for weddings and events like pop-up vendor shows and a few “secret-for-now things” in the works.

What to order: Woolsey’s Red, a blend of blaufränkisch, cabernet franc and syrah, is a favorite of Dune Bird’s winemaker Drew Perry, and is “a beautifully

complex, robust red with incredibly layered notes of dark fruit and crushed herbs,” he says. Pair it with gouda-filled mac ‘n’ cheese balls. The Pure Leland sparkling pinot gris, another of Drew’s top picks, is just right with anything crunchy or salty, like the flaky spanakopita.

Dune Bird Winery 5620 N. Manitou Trail, Northport dunebirdwinery.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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We serve up good food and good times!

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Chef Les Eckert

T R AV E R S E / A P R I L 2 0 2 2

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T he Cu l i nary North Grab & Go

The perfect way to love Mother Earth? Pack a lunch and pick up some trails in Charlevoix County.

Lake Street Market All of the nearly 30 sandwiches at this much-loved Boyne City market are masterpieces—thick stacks of crunchy veg and melty cheese that command two hands. But, after an Earth Day cleanup (more on that below), ordering a “Hazardous Waist” is especially on point. Pair your punny sandwich—layered with turkey, jalapeño havarti, house-made coleslaw and honey mustard—with a fudgy brownie (baked on a layer of shortbread!) and you’ll be a very happy camper. Note: At time of publication, orders must be placed online or over the phone for curbside pickup; the market is closed to walk-in traffic.

306 S. Lake St., Boyne City lakestreetmarket.com

JUST A BITE

Caprese Bread

rachel beckwith’s cinnamon rolls

put her on the map in 2019 as Lake Ann’s Bread Lady, but now customers also come for the 28 rotating flavors of bread and sweets like buckeye brownies and lemon bars. For Easter brunch, we’re craving the best-selling caprese bread—a constant on the menu made fresh daily with tomatoes, mozzarella, basil and a balsamic glaze— which Rachel says is especially good for BLTs. (I bought a loaf for “fact-checking” and can confirm it makes a darn good sandwich.) Find The Bread Lady at her Lake Ann home where the garage has been converted into a kitchen and small shop open to the public or the Interlochen, Frankfort and Elk Rapids farmers markets. 19773 Linwood Ave., Lake Ann, facebook.com/thelakeannbreadlady –C.S.

GO:

Adopt a Forest Michigan’s Adopt-aForest volunteer cleanup program, led by the Department of Natural Resources, was established in 1991 to stop illegal dumping and connect people to the state’s public forests. Since then, more than 2 million acres have been cleaned up and tens of thousands of cubic yards of trash disposed of. An interactive online map of dumpsites makes it easy to find forestland near you that needs some love, and many listings include comments about how to find the site, what kinds of trash you’ll find (tires, household debris, etc.) and if there are any safety concerns or special equipment needed. In Charlevoix County, home to Lake Street Market, there are nearly a dozen sites that need to be claimed and cleaned. To view the map, visit michigan.gov/dnr then click “get involved” under the “about us” tab.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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photo by Lisa Fotios

by CARLY SIMPSON

GRAB:

photo by Rachel Haggerty

A PICNIC PICKUP

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The Culinary North

GUIDE R E S T A U R A N T

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Cormack’s Deli Vivio’s Northwood Inn Locals love this cozy, rustic, wildlifedecorated log cabin with Italian cuisine and specialty pizzas.

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Chateau at Black Mountain Hikers on Black Mountain love

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settling in post-walkabout for the glorious view of East Twin Lake and freshly prepared walleye, lobster bisque and decadent chocolate cake. 10621 TWIN LAKES RD., CHEBOYGAN, 231.625.9322 LD • BAR • $$-$$$ •

Dutch Oven Bakery French toast, farmer’s omelette stratas and

sandwiches on famous homemade bread. 7611 US-31, ALANSON,

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Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary

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cooked comfort food and soups like carrot bisque and chicken ’n’ dumpling. 1900 US-31, PETOSKEY, 231.881.9047 BL • $

The Highlands Main Dining Room—Casual American with Scottish influences. Focus on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients.

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CHEBOYGAN, 231.627.2459 LD • BAR • $–$$

NEW Local Bay Harbor Known for locally crafted cocktails,

unique personal wine lockers and menu items like lobster ravioli, Australian rack of lamb and fried chicken sandwiches. 795 FRONT ST., BAY HARBOR, 231.881.9134 LD • BAR $$-$$$ •

The Queens Head Wine Pub Wine, spirits and draft beer

savor this eatery’s upscale menu. 215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BE-

City Park Grill Hemingway drank at the massive mahogany bar in this casual spot. Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish and live entertainment. 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101 LD • BAR • $$

Cormack’s Deli Award-winning deli featuring fabulous sandwiches, soups and BBQ. 2569 CHARLEVOIX AVE., PETOSKEY,

homemade pastries like lemon raspberry bars, banana caramel flan. 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 231.439.9250 BL • $ Mim’s Mediterranean Grill A sunny hangout with homemade falafel, kebabs, spinach pie, saganaki and other Greek delights. 1823 N. US-3, PETOSKEY, 231.348.9994

LD • $-$$

Mitchell Street Pub Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic

nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801 LD • BAR • $-$$

Moose Jaw Junction Famous for fish, burgers, Mexican food, pizza and your favorite beverages. 966 W. VAN RD., PELLSTON, 231.539.8528 LD • BAR • $-$$

Nancy Kelly’s Restaurant Fine dining with a flair. Chef-

prepared gourmet food. Craft cocktails and a full bar. 230 N.

US-31, PELLSTON, 231.539.7100 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

The New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. 101 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904 D • BAR • $$-$$$

Odawa Casino Resort Sage—Sumptuous fine dining with curried grilled lamb loin, salmon saltimbocca, seared scallops and an extensive wine list. 1760 LEARS RD., PETOSKEY, 877.442.6464 D • BAR • $$-$$$

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale dining, outdoor seating and an evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour. 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321 LD • BAR • $$-$$$ •

dining establishment offers a bit of everything plus all-you-caneat chicken dinners. 6705 WOODLAND RD., PELLSTON, 231.539.8851

Vintage Chophouse/Wine Bar All-American steakhouse

317 E. LAKE ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3663 LD • BAR • $$

COLLECTION, 3600 VILLAGE, HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051 LD • BAR • $-$$$

KEY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3299 LD • $

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and

Dam Site Inn With views of the Maple River, this classic family D • BAR • $$-$$$ •

flavored with retro sophistication. INN AT BAY HARBOR AUTOGRAPH

Jose’s Authentic taqueria with made-to-order Mex. 309 PETOS-

231.347.7570 BL • $

along with delectable pub fare. 250 N. HURON ST., CHEBOYGAN, 231.445.7101 LD • BAR • $$

photo by Dave Weidner

Save each issue for a look at the North’s dining scene, and find the full guide in print June– September. Or, visit MyNorth.com > Directories > Restaurants.

Duffy’s Garage and Grille Pasta, burgers, inventive pizzas.

Hoppies Landing Pizzas, grinders, nachos, specialty brews,

beautiful views from the Observation Lounge at Pellston Regional Airport. 1395 N. US-31, PELLSTON, 231.539.8900

FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS!

MyNorth.com > Food & Drink > Restaurants

LD • BAR • $-$$

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The Culinary North The Paper Station Fresh, relaxed American and global foods

Turkey’s Special omelettes, bagels, French toast, burgers,

food. 1 SHANTY CREEK RD. (M-88), BELLAIRE, 800.678.4111 BLD • BAR • $$ •

BAR • $$

231.526.6041 BLD • BAR • $-$$

Petoskey Brewing Company Craft brewery with a pub menu (think burgers, wings, cheese curds). 1844 M-119,

Vernales Restaurant Chop house, sports bar and wine bar with patio dining. 3018 M-119, HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4777 LD

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store. 121 N.

including Korean fried chicken, Greek chicken naan and fab burgers. 145 E. MAIN ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4680 LD •

pizzas, calzones, and sandwiches—served by friendly folks in a quaint 110-year-old building. 250 E. MAIN ST., HARBOR SPRINGS,

PETOSKEY, 231.753.2057 LD • BAR • $-$$

• BAR • $-$$$

Pierson’s Grille & Spirits Ribs, whitefish, pizza, burgers and other staples of life. 130 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS,

Villa Ristorante Italiano Authentic handmade pasta, osso

231.526.2967 BLD • BAR • $-$$$

Pond Hill Farm Farm-to-plate experience in a historic barn set on a working farm. Wine and beer tasting, plus a market and hiking trails. 5699 S. LAKE SHORE DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.3276 L • BAR • $-$$

buco and hand-rolled cannoli star. 887 SPRING ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440 D • BAR • $$-$$$

Willow Modern farm-to-table American cuisine with global wines and a craft cocktail bar. 129 EAST BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.412.6032 D • BAR • $$-$$$

CHARLEVOIX & CHAIN OF LAKES

Pour Public House Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. 422 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9800

ALDEN/BELLAIRE/BOYNE COUNTRY/ RAPID CITY/WALLOON

LD • BAR • $$-$$$

Roast & Toast Daily house-made soups, bread, bakery items

and salads. On-site coffee roasting. 309 E. LAKE ST., PETOSKEY,

231.347.7767 BLD • $

Rusty Saw North Traditional barbecue, plus breakfast

Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet

BOYNE CITY RD., BOYNE CITY. 231.582.3341 D • BAR • $$-$$$

and more goodies. 324 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.489.8278

burgers. 220 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.459.4487 LD • BAR •

BL • $-$$

$-$$

Side Door Saloon Excellent sandwiches, quesadillas, steak,

Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s—Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Stein Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern—American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$

creative atmosphere—order the lemon ricotta pancakes aka “the Heavenly.” 340 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4686 BL • $

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with a big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 231.347.2771 BLD • $$-$$$ Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with a wraparound

front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. 100 LEWIS ST.,

PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000 LD • BAR • $$–$$$

Stafford’s Pier Pointer Room—fresh seafood. LD • BAR

• $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6201

American food with a focus on local ingredients. 213 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7301 D • BAR • $$

Toonie’s Fish & Steak House Family restaurant serving fresh-

cut steaks, local fish, ribs and some of the biggest pancakes in the north. 216 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.8513 BLD • BAR • $-$$

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE, 231.535.2999 D • BAR • $$-$$$ •

The Blue Pelican A 1924 inn now home to a spacious outdoor patio and serving fresh pasta, seafood and steaks. 2535 MAIN

Boyne City Taproom Craft beer, wood-fired pizzas, wraps,

Small Batch Artisan breakfast, lunch and baked goods in a

Terrain Restaurant Honest yet ambitious contemporary

Bella Vita Casual fine dining Italian restaurant that utilizes

Sam’s Graces Café From-scratch pastries, brick-oven pizza

whitefish and pastas. 1200 N. US-31, PETOSKEY, 231.347.9291

BAR $-$$

CENTRAL LAKE/CHARLEVOIX/EAST JORDAN/ELLSWORTH

$-$$$

the freshest ingredients Northern Michigan has to offer. 02911

LD • BAR • $

Stiggs Brewery Hand-crafted brews, from-scratch food like whitefish cakes, bourbon chicken sandwich, top sirloin wagyu steak. 112 S. PARK ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6100 LD •

pizza, pasta and more. 20+ craft beers on tap and signature cocktails. 4069 M-75, WALLOON LAKE, 231.535.6000 LD • BAR •

(hello, brisket quiche). 3459 US-31, BRUTUS, 231.529.6574 BLD

• $$

BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.498.2300 LD • BAR • $-$$

1 BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS, 855.688.7024

Café Santé European-style bistro serving the classics beside Lake Charlevoix. 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800 BLD • BAR • $-$$ •

Corner Bistro French-inspired small plates, classic cock-

tails, wine, beer, Sunday brunch. 102 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE,

231.409.7088 LD • BAR • $-$$

Lake Street Pub American pub with outdoor patio and firepit, Bier mac ‘n’ cheese, cocktails, 26 beers on tap. 202 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6031 LD • $

Lunch Box Good home cooking and breakfast all the time. 106 E. CAYUGA ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6678 BL • $

Johnny’s Torch Riviera Italian and American cuisine in a

ST., CENTRAL LAKE, 231.544.2583 D • BAR • $$

Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beer-friendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. 202 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466 LD • BAR • $-$$ •

The Cantina Tacos and tequila with indoor and outdoor

seating. Live entertainment. 101 VAN PELT PLACE, CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3612 LD • BAR • $-$$

Charlevoix Pizza Company Scratch-made dough, fresh in-

gredients, golden crust, prepared daily. Plus, cheesy bread and wings. 311 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6300 LD • $-$$

East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails. 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450 LD • BAR • $$–$$$

Esperance Gourmets will adore dishes prepared with dazzling

technique in this specialty food and wine shop. 12853 US-31 N.,

CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.9300 D • $-$$$

Foundry Bar & Grill Flatbreads, sandwiches and big burgers, with an upstairs lounge area and events like karaoke and trivia.

101 MAIN ST., EAST JORDAN, 231.649.0006 3612 LD • BAR • $-$$

That French Place Authentic French crêperie and ice cream shop. 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 BLD • $

Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito

231.322.4100 LD • BAR • $$

historic 1936 dining establishment. 12899 CHERRY AVE. RAPID CITY,

Friske Farm Market Roadside restaurant with farm-fresh

PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572 LD • BAR • $-$$

The Pelican’s Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sand-

10743 US-31, ELLSWORTH, 231.599.2604 BL • $

pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. 422 E. MITCHELL ST., Teddy Griffin’s Roadhouse Casual spot to grab ribs, steak

or fresh fish after golf or skiing and catch the game on TV. 50

HIGHLAND PIKE RD., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.7805 D • BAR • $$

The Terrace Inn & 1911 Restaurant Planked whitefish

and housemade desserts in a Victorian setting. 1549 GLENDALE

AVE., PETOSKEY, 231.347.2410 D • BAR • $$

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic

noodles, curries and salads. 433 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.487.9900 LD • $-$$

Tillie’s Tafel Gourmet cinnamon rolls rate made fresh daily;

pair with the Sumatran coffee. 437 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY,

231.753.2044 BL • $

46

wiches, salads and homemade desserts. 5085 SHANTY CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000 D • BAR $-$$

Provisions Wine Lounge Sommelier curated wines by the glass and bottle, classic cocktails, Michigan craft beer and small plates. 123 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.2151 LD •

breakfasts, homemade soups, salads, sandwiches and a bakery.

The Front Porch Cafe Sit elbow-to-elbow with neighbors for fellowship and affordable home-cooked food; a “priceless” menu that is donation based. 9235 MAIN ST., ELLSWORTH,

231.588.2000 BL • $

BAR • $$

Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American

cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.0049 LD •

BAR • $$

Shanty Creek Resort Lakeview—Innovative regional cui-

sine at Shanty Creek Resort. Breakfast, lunch & dinner; The River Bistro—Breakfast buffet, sandwiches, pizzas and 45 regional beers on tap; Arnie’s at the Summit—Breakfast, lunch, (spring-fall); Ivan’s Mountainside Grill—Schuss Village-Pub

FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS!

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T R AV E R S E / A PB RR I LU A2 R 0Y 2 22 0 2 2 FE

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T he Cu l i nary North On the Table DINING IN

HAUTE HARBINGER

by STACEY BRUGEMAN

Welcome spring with this elegant spread.

photo and styling by Sarah Peschel

I

was first introduced to ramps in the Hudson River Valley. My New York City boyfriend was originally from there, and we took the train north to visit his mom from time to time. One of my favorite things to do when we would go see her was visit Blooming Hill Farm, where Guy Jones hosted “farm dinners” long before that was a household term. During an early spring visit, I had arranged to help prepare for one such dinner in his kitchen. I was working on a Masters in Food Studies at the time and volunteering in a kitchen was a part of some assignment. The novice task I was assigned that day? To wash and trim bushels of ramps that had just been harvested from the forest floor. I stood over that sink for hours, rinsing the dark black earth from each allium, peeling back the outermost layer of translucent skin and pinching off the roots.

The boyfriend didn’t work out, but somehow my love affair with ramps survived such an intense first date.

More than 20 years later, I’m lucky enough to have access to ramps right outside my Michigan mudroom.

These days, instead of harvesting them by the bushel, I prefer to grab just a few at a time as an herb or flavoring, which is how they show up in this tzatziki recipe.

Tzatziki is a Greek dip, condiment or sauce that is made with strained yogurt, cucumber, olive oil and dill. I spike mine with ground sumac, which is common in Middle Eastern cookery and adds a welcome, acidic tang. One of the best things about using this spring forest find in tzatziki? It works well with another spring favorite: lamb. If you made lamb this Easter, join me in placing leftover slices of meat between some pita, slather it with this tzatziki, and you’ll have spring’s best gyro.

Stacey Brugeman is a Leelanau County-based food and beverage writer and editor. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater and Denver’s 5280, where she served as Restaurant Critic.

Follow her on Instagram @staceybrugeman.

^

Ramp Tzatziki

Makes 4 cups, enough for gyros, keftedes, snacking and more 24-ounce container of plain Greek yogurt, about 3 cups 1 long English cucumber (the kind that’s wrapped in plastic), rinsed ½ teaspoon salt, divided 4 sustainably harvested ramps, cleaned 2 Tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, about half a lemon 2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 9 fresh mint leaves, julienned, about 2 Tablespoons 3 dill fronds, chopped, about 2 Tablespoons ½ teaspoon ground sumac 1. Cut a piece of double-layered cheesecloth that is longer and wider than the opening of a food storage container or other covered bowl. Lay the cheesecloth over the bowl, spoon the yogurt onto the cheesecloth, and cover.

Pull at the sides of the cheesecloth to lift the yogurt off the bottom of the bowl, creating a gap for the liquid to sit. Place this container in the refrigerator to strain until a pool of liquid has collected at the bottom of the bowl, about an hour.

3. While the cucumber is draining, chop the ramps. Separate the pink and white stem end from the green leaf end. Finely mince the stems and julienne the leaves.

2. Meanwhile, grate the cucumber across the coarse holes of a box grater. Place the shredded cucumber, about 3 cups, into a colander set over a plate. Add ¼ teaspoon salt and let sit for 10 minutes.

5. Remove the yogurt from the refrigerator. Discard the reserved liquid and add the thickened yogurt to the cucumber mixture. Add remaining ¼ teaspoon of salt and stir to combine. –S.B.

4. Once the cucumber has been draining for 10 minutes, use your clean hands to squeeze the shredded pieces, releasing any extra liquid onto the plate.

Place the squeezed cucumber into a large bowl and add the ramps, lemon juice, olive oil, mint, dill and sumac.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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The Culinary North

Grey Gables Restaurant Graceful, intimate, Victorian atmo-

sphere across from the harbor. 308 BELVEDERE AVE., CHARLEVOIX,

231.547.9261 D • BAR • $$-$$$

Jordan Inn Victorian B&B with terrific eggs Benedict and

crêpe-style pancakes, fresh lunches and European-style dinners by reservation. 228 MAIN ST., EAST JORDAN, 231.536.9906 BLD •

Bennethum’s Northern Inn Fresh eclectic cuisine and updated regional favorites in a cozy Northwoods setting. Creative kids menu, Sun. brunch. 3917 SOUTH OLD 27, GAYLORD, 989.732.9288 LD • BAR • $-$$$

Cellar 152 Gourmet meals to take out or eat in, at a wine

bar on the Elk River. 152 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9000 BLD

BAR • $-$$$

• BAR • $-$$

Pigs Eatin’ Ribs Real smokehouse with mouthwatering BBQ.

Chef Charles’ Culinary Institute of America-trained Chef

Weekend breakfast. 1418 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7447 BLD • $-$$

Royal Farms Boutique farm market with meat pasties, baked

goods, award-winning pies, hard cider, wine. 10445 N. US-31,

ELLSWORTH, 231.599.3222 L • BAR • $-$$

Scovie’s Gourmet Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and

baked goods star here. Dinner is bistro-style comfort food. 111

BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.7827 LD • $-$$

South Arm Cafe Grab a home-cooked breakfast or lunch—specials daily. 101 2ND ST., EAST JORDAN 231.536.2801 BL • $-$$ Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional

cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure. 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311 LD • BAR • $$ •

Charles Egeler makes gourmet pizzas, Ligurian-style takeout pesto, salads and sandwiches in a classic pizzeria. 147 RIVER ST.,

ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.8901 LD • $

The Flour Pot Bakery Grab a doughnut, Danish or another

favorite to start your day.108 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9732 BL • $

Gates Au Sable Lodge Artful home cooking on the river with

a takeout window for anglers. 471 STEPHAN BRIDGE RD., GRAYLING, 989.348.8462 BLD • BAR • $-$$ •

Jac’s Parlor Serving pizzas, toasted subs, salads, calzones, breadsticks and Moomer’s ice cream. 115 AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS,

231.264.6880 LD • $$

Moose & Stella’s Cafe Kalkaska’s only dog-themed cafe.

Doggone good chow. 203 S CEDAR ST., KALKASKA, 231.258.9778 BL

Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin

• $-$$

ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. 101 ANTRIM

Paddle Hard Brewing A fun-loving community hangout with artisan tacos, pizzas and brews. 227 E. MICHIGAN AVE., GRAYLING, 989.745.6388 LD • BAR • $$

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively zydeco, jazz and blues. 617 AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530 LD • BAR • $-$$

Ray’s BBQ, Brews & Blues A BBQ joint on the banks of the Au Sable River. 204 INGHAM ST., GRAYLING, 989.348.1515 LD •

BAR • $$ •

Shirley’s Café Ultra-friendly, all-homemade oasis. 528 S. WILLIAMS ST., MANCELONA, 231.587.1210 BL • $

Spike’s Keg O’ Nails An Up North classic for burgers since

1933. 301 N. JAMES ST., GRAYLING, 989.348.7113 LD • BAR • $

Sugar Bowl Restaurant This vintage 1919 eatery serves whitefish, prime rib and Greek specialties. 216 W. MAIN ST., GAY-

LORD, 989.732.5524 BLD • BAR • $$-$$$

The Town Club This famous landmark is appreciated for its

Friday Night Perch Fry and famous Prime Rib Thursdays. 133

RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9914 LD • BAR • $$

Treetops Resort Legends on the Hill—Classic American

breakfasts and dinners. The Sports Bar—Great spot for a burger and beer. 3962 WILKINSON RD., GAYLORD, 866.348.5249 BLD

ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799 D • BAR • $$

The Iron Skillet All the classics (corned beef hash and the

•BAR•$-$$$

Torch Lake Cafe Seasonal cuisine with sharable options like

LIAMS ST., MANCELONA, 231.587.9778 BLD • $-$$

N., CENTRAL LAKE, 231.599.1111 BLD • BAR • $-$$$

The Local All-American breakfast and lunch done better. 145

Trout Town Tavern & Eatery Homey fishermen’s spot with battered lake trout and homemade meatloaf for dinner. 306 ELM

the Farmers Board with artisan meats and cheeses. 4990 US-31

Villager Pub A Charlevoix hangout for nearly four decades,

with two distinct sections. Known for Great Lakes whitefish, Mexican, ribs and pizza. 427 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.6925

LD • BAR • $-$$

ELK RAPIDS/GAYLORD/GRAYLING/ KALKASKA/MANCELONA

American House Wood Fired Pizza Full menu and tradi-

tional Neapolitan-style pizzas made with San Marzano tomatoes and fresh ingredients. 151 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.6062 LD

beloved smoked brisket) with some fun additions. 524 S. WIL-

AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.498.2190 BL • $$

ST., KALKASKA, 231.258.2701 LD • $-$$

Michaywé Inn the Woods Casual, Up Northy, with a lake view, steaks and seafood. 1535 OPAL LAKE RD., GAYLORD, 989.939.8800 D • BAR • $$-$$$ •

The Old Depot 1900s train depot features home style burgers, steaks, chops, prime rib, seafood, pies and pastries. 10826 M-32 E., JOHANNESBURG, 989.732.3115 BLD • $$

Otsego Resort The Duck Blind Grille—Casual dining with something for everyone. 696 M-32, GAYLORD, 989.732.5181 BLD • BAR • $$

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• BAR • $$

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T he Cu l i nary North Last Call SPRING FEVER

by STACEY BRUGEMAN

With a hint of cherry and a spring-green hue, this classic cocktail brings the feel of warm days to come.

L

F R O M

O U R

C E L L A R

Not flexing your mixology muscles tonight? Here’s what area beverage professionals are drinking right now.

We were elated to learn that Earthen Ales, one of our favorite Traverse City breweries, recently started canning its Juniper Rye. Inspired by a walk in the Northern Michigan forests and akin to the Finnish Sahti style, this was one of the first beers that husband-and-wife team Andrew and Jamie Kidwell-Brix brewed together. We checked in with Advanced Cicerone Annette May—one of only two Advanced-level beer experts in Michigan—who told Traverse, this is “a beautiful, finely crafted” beer. With a nose of citrusy “spruce tips” and “distinct floral and spicy pepper notes” in the glass, we know what we’ll be pouring as the woods reawaken this month. earthenales.com; $12 per 6-pack –S.B.

^

Last Word

Serves 1 ¾ ounce gin ¾ ounce Green Chartreuse ¾ ounce fresh lime juice ¾ ounce maraschino liqueur such as Luxardo Michigan cocktail cherry, for garnish Add ice to a coupe glass to chill it. Fill a cocktail shaker with ice and add the gin, Chartreuse, lime juice and maraschino liqueur. Shake vigorously until the mixture is cold. Discard the ice in the coupe, strain contents of the shaker into the glass and garnish with a cherry. –S.B.

signature bright-green hue is an especially welcome pop of color in Northern Michigan on an April day. Grab a bottle of your favorite 45th parallel gin—we’re looking at you, Iron Fish (ironfishdistillery.com) and Ethanology (ethanologydistillation.com)—put on your parka and dust off that front porch rocker. It may not feel like spring just yet, but this colorful cocktail will at least look like greener days are coming.

Stacey Brugeman is a Leelanau County-based food and beverage writer and editor. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater and Denver’s 5280, where she served as Restaurant Critic. Follow her on Instagram @staceybrugeman.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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photo by Dave Weidner / styling by Sarah Peschel

ast year for my april birthday, my husband took me to Detroit for a couple’s weekend. After dropping our bags in the room, we headed straight for the Foundation Hotel’s lobby bar for happy hour. Some 15 minutes into our arrival in the Motor City, I was reminded that our closest major metro is not only the birthplace of the automobile, the assembly line and countless blockbuster musicians—but also one of the most colorful cocktails of all time. Right there at the top of my Motown menu that night: the Last Word. Said to have been first served more than a century ago at the still-prestigious Detroit Athletic Club, the classic cocktail is a curious mixture of gin, lime juice, maraschino liqueur and Green Chartreuse. Chartreuse is an herbaceous, chlorophyll-colored liqueur made by French monks. I have long been a fan of just about any cocktail that features it, but the peppery, almost-minty digestif ’s

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on !) ti i d E d o o ( the F

love of the land

Violet Simple Syrup

(sourced from nerdswithknives.com) 2 cups rinsed purple violet petals loosely packed, green leaves and stems removed 1 cup water 1 cup granulated sugar ⅛–¼ teaspoon lemon juice, optional Add the violet petals to a heat-proof bowl and pour over 1 cup of boiling water. Swish the flowers around to make sure they’re submerged and let the mixture steep at room temperature for 24 to 48 hours. Place a fine mesh strainer over another bowl and strain out the petals, pressing or squeezing them to extract as much liquid as possible. Add the violet liquid back to the heat-proof bowl.

Bring 1 to 2 inches of water to a simmer in a medium saucepan and set the bowl with the violet liquid on top of the pan. Make sure the boiling water isn’t directly touching the bowl. Add in the sugar and stir until it is dissolved, about 5 to 7 minutes. Make sure the syrup doesn’t reach a simmer so the color stays vibrant. Remove the bowl from the heat and stir in 1/4 teaspoon lemon juice. If you want the color to be more purple, stir in the other 1/4 teaspoon. Transfer the syrup to a clean glass bottle or jar and store in the refrigerator for up to 6 months.

VIOLET REVERIE photos and text by ALLISON JARRELL

To make violet lemonade: Stir together 1 part lemon juice and 1 part water with 2 parts violet syrup. For a festive presentation, I also added fresh violets to my ice cube tray, placing 2 or 3 in each cube. Pour a glass and enjoy!

^

Use freshly foraged violets gathered on a spring hike to brighten up your next tea, lemonade or cocktail.

O

ne of my favorite parts of hiking during the spring thaw is hunting for clusters of petite purple petals tucked under leaves and between fresh blades of grass. Come April, the North’s forest floor is speckled with an array of burgeoning violets. They love to grow in shady places—I often find them poking their heads up near water and underneath canopies of shrubs and trees.

Last spring, while inhaling the sweet, heady perfume of my Ziploc bags filled to the brim with flowers post-hike, I decided to make a violet simple syrup to add to fresh lemonade (or jazz up a gin and tonic!). The recipe I found online was easy to follow, and the most satisfying part was watching the acid of the lemon juice added at the end change the syrup from a deep royal blue to a vibrant purple. (You can do the same experiment with just a glass of steeped violet tea and lemon juice!)

tip

Bring along a field guide to identify what you’re picking, and make sure the area you’re foraging is pesticide-free. Also worth noting: it’s illegal to pick wildflowers on state, federal or conservancy land, and bird-foot violets with long, linear leaves are protected in Michigan.

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