Traverse, Northern Michigan's Magazine February 2022

Traverse 02.22

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

SPECIAL INSERT

Northern Home & Cottage

POWDER HIGHWAY HAVE YOU GLIDED ALONG THESE MAGICAL U.P. TRAILS? ALSO

RAISE A GLASS TO WINTER 6 COZY BREWERIES. 1 PERFECT WEEKEND.

LOVE MATCH

3 ADOPTED PETS THAT WILL MELT YOUR HEART

+ Sip: Mulled Wine 0222 TVM COVER.indd 1

An Artist’s “Creative Hands”

Journey to Chocolay Bayou

FEBRUARY 2O22

$4.5O

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Building and renovating Northern Michigan’s finest residences.

J. Peterson Realty is pleased to present this rare Old Mission building site featuring 110’ of direct sandy frontage on West Bay. Located conveniently just a stones throw north of Bowers Harbor, the private wooded site offers a flat yard leading to a low bluff and sandy beach beyond. Let J. Peterson Homes assist you with a new home plan or come with your own design. Lot price includes removal of existing structure.

15543 Birch Drive. $995,000. MLS# 158084

Remarkable opportunity to build a new J. Peterson home on Old Mission’s renown West Bay. The wooded site features an elevated westerly facing building envelope with a low bluff leading to the sandy beach. Amenity includes all the quality workmanship and materials you expect from a J. Peterson Home including hardwood floors throughout, tiled showers and baths, Pella windows, Kohler plumbing fixtures and the best finish in the industry. Lot is serviced by natural gas and high speed cable internet. $2,250,000. MLS# 11895578

joel@joelpetersonhomes.com • 516 E. Front St., Traverse City • 231.994.2168

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Traverse 2.22 INSIDE

F E AT U R E S

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DISCOVER MORE ABOUT UP NORTH, PEOPLE, PLACES, FOOD AND EVENTS.

RAISE A GLASS TO WINTER Six cozy breweries. One perfect weekend. Michigan beer enthusiast Emily Bennett takes us along on a mini winter beer tour, with stops at some of her favorite northern haunts.

B Y E M I LY B E N N E T T PHOTOS BY MICHAEL MURPHY IV

photo by Michael Murphy IV

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POWDER HIGHWAY

LOVE MATCH

Have you glided across these magical U.P. pathways? The Noquemanon Trail Network and its eight trail systems are a must for your Up North winter bucket list.

These three adopted pets— and their tales of finding forever homes—will melt your heart.

Plus, learn how you can help local shelters and rescue groups in need.

B Y H E AT H E R J O H N S O N D U R O C H E R

BY KIM SCHNEIDER

PHOTOS BY LIAM KAISER AND FLOLINE MEDIA

PHOTOS BY COURTNEY KENT

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Confused by the current real estate market?

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Let me take the stress out of buying & selling.

Together we can make a plan that’s right for your needs & goals, without any pressure.

DE PART M E N T S 5 | EDITOR'S NOTE

402 E Front Street, Traverse City, MI 49686

7 | UP NORTH

Ann Porter

The hands of artist Carol Tompkins-Parker have endured a lifetime of pain, but they have also created great beauty. Now, her new book, “Creative Hands,” showcases her drawings of our region's residents doing what they love.

ASSOCIATE BROKER

231.944.4959

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Elizabeth Blair FinePearls Elizabeth Blair

12 | FEBRUARY EVENTS

February is full of live music, good food and plenty of outdoor activities—from ski and snowshoe events to dog sled races.

FinePearls

13 | TRAVEL

This Valentine’s Day, gather your gal pals and head north for the weekend to reconnect, relax and rejuvenate.

14 | UP IN MICHIGAN

115 W. Main Street ~ Harbor Springs, MI 231.526.7500 WestMainPearls.com ElizabethBlair.com 115 W. Main Street ~~Harbor Springs, MI 231.526.7500 Jewelers of America WestMainPearls.com ~ ElizabethBlair.com Cultured Pearl Association of America American Gem Society Jewelers of America Cultured Pearl Association of America American Gem Society

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photo by Kandace Chapple

Everyday Luxe Everyday Luxe

For those who take the time to learn, backcountry skiing offers adventure, tranquility and the opportunity to appreciate the North we love in a new light.

Follow Us On Social Media facebook.com/mynorthmedia instagram.com/mynorthmedia pinterest.com/mynorthmedia

17 | OUTDOORS

Dig out your snowshoes or cross-country skis and take in Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive’s stunning snow-dusted dunes and ice-topped lakes.

37 | THE CULINARY NORTH

Ed Carrella grew up working at his parents’ pizzerias on Chicago’s South Side. Now, he’s sharing that experience, and authentic Italian food, at Vita Bella in Frankfort.

41 | ON THE TABLE

This duck and cherry ragù marries the French technique of duck confit with a dark, meaty Italian spaghetti sauce—the perfect winter comfort food.

43 | LAST CALL

Glüwein. Glögg. Mulled wine.

Whatever you call it, this snow season sipper will help you beat the chill.

44 | LOVE OF THE LAND

Journey to Chocolay Bayou this winter and enjoy a scenic stroll through snow-covered woods and wetlands.

ON THE COVER The U.P.’s Noquemanon Trail Network is a vast winter wonderland just waiting to be traversed.

PHOTO BY LIAM KAISER

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Traverse NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF CHIEF OPERATIONS OFFICER

Deborah Wyatt Fellows Michael Wnek Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Allison Jarrell

SENIOR EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL CONTENT WRITER & SOCIAL MEDIA PROJECT MANAGER CULINARY COLUMNIST

Vol. 41 | No. 9

Elizabeth Aseritis Caroline Dahlquist

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

Andrew VanDrie Kandace Chapple Cara McDonald Kim Schneider Heather Durocher

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

Tim Hussey Theresa Burau-Baehr

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

Rachel Watson Claire Houser

GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Julie Parker

DIRECTOR OF SALES SALES ACCOUNT COORDINATOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

MARKETING DIRECTOR MARKETING COORDINATOR

Traverse 02.22

POINTS NORTH

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

SPECIAL INSERT

Northern Home & Cottage

Points North is a show about the land, water, and inhabitants of the upper Great Lakes.

Rachel Soulliere Stacey Brugeman

PROOFREADERS

ART DIRECTOR

Northern Michigan Delivered

Each week we look into what draws people to northern Michigan — the beaches, orchards, dunes, and forests — and the deeper stories behind these postcard settings.

POWDER HIGHWAY HAVE YOU GLIDED ALONG THESE MAGICAL U.P. TRAILS? ALSO

RAISE A GLASS TO WINTER 6 COZY BREWERIES. 1 PERFECT WEEKEND.

LOVE MATCH

3 ADOPTED PETS THAT WILL MELT YOUR HEART

Fridays at 6:45 a.m. and 8:45 a.m.

+ Sip: Mulled Wine

An Artist’s “Creative Hands”

Journey to Chocolay Bayou

FEBRUARY 2O22

$4.5O

Enjoy a “trip” Up North all year long!

Print subscriptions starting at $24.95!

91.5 FM, Traverse City 90.1 FM, Harbor Springs/Petoskey 89.7 FM, Manistee/Ludington

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Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $24.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2022, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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HOUSE-SMOKED TO FALL OFF THE BONE

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Paths twist and turn, eager for your next adventure. A clear blue sky stretches on for miles. Hills roll on forever, white with snow. Natural beauty comes into focus and sets the stage for the perfect getaway.

And there you are, in the middle of it all. In your element.

C R YS TA L M O U N TA I N .C O M

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editor's note

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’ve loved Robert Frost’s “Stopping by Woods on a Snowy Evening” since I first heard it in sixth grade. We weren’t poetry readers in our family, but Mr. Duncan, my sixth-grade teacher, was. My class of suburban 11-yearolds listened to his poetry readings at the end of school days, most of the time watching the clock, awaiting the bell. But for each of us, there must have been poems that stuck. I had many; this was one.

I had been Up North in the winter. Even by then, I had experienced the kind of silence that makes it possible to hear the easy wind, the downy flake falling. Sitting at our wooden desks, our heads down as we listened to Mr. Duncan’s voice, I was transported to a place that was quiet, beautiful, wild, mysterious. And I was aware, even then, of the pull to stay, but always needing to move on. For me, at that age, it was simple: the poem spoke to always having to leave Up North to come back home.

The beauty of poetry is that it grows with us. Any adult can relate to all of life that is pulling the traveler onward. This poem reminds us that is what makes a quiet winter moment so poignant.

The winter quiet stills your mind; the cold, sweet air works a kind of cleansing on your soul. You can breathe, just breathe, in a beautiful “quiet” simply not found in other seasons. And when you are ready, you reenter.

But as an adult I now see that this traveler underby DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS stood that the land was not his and because the owner lived in the village, the traveler could steal a moment.

Forty years ago, my friends and I hiked and cross-country skied old lumber two tracks and trails with abandon. We occasionally ran into the owner and we’d stop to chat … and apologize. To a person, they said it was fine, just don’t bring a motorized vehicle.

That has changed as times change; private property is clearly more private now.

That’s what makes our story this month about the Noquemanon Trail Network so meaningful. Theirs is a story of commitment between volunteers, private landowners and people passionate to find ways to get others into the woods any time of the year. It is not easy work, as any trail system will attest to. But the people behind this work are driven by a mission: People need to access the woods and landscapes of Northern Michigan for their physical, mental and emotional health, and for the health of their communities.

NTN is an incredible trail system year-round, but “some of this access is fragile,” says Executive Director Lori Hauswirth. “We’re greatly relying on sometimes yearto-year agreements, and just being friendly and kind to others is a big deal.”

In December, we wrote about the gracious commitment of Dave Forbush as he opened up his family farm to cross-country skiers, ultimately creating a nonprofit that will ensure people can access the quiet of a winter wood in perpetuity. Volunteers like Friends of Sleeping Bear Dunes spend endless hours grooming the trails so people can ski the landscape, and the same is true for volunteers at TART Trails.

Trails are groomed by volunteers at conservancy properties throughout the North, woods opened through the grace of landowners, the commitment of staff, members and donors, and sometimes the partnership of a state that works to carry former Governor Milliken’s legacy to the environment into our future.

We aren’t a region where one can only sneak a moment at the edge of the wood.

We are a region that works tirelessly to open that wood to any passerby, because that’s who we are; that’s what we believe in. We are stewards of this fragile and magnificent place, and each generation finds a way to keep that legacy alive. Somewhere is another little girl closing her eyes to the sound of a poem, picturing the woods filling up with snow in the North. For her, for the calm and joy you will find, for your children, your grandchildren, do what you can. And then find a snowy wood.

INTO SNOWY WOODS

Whose woods these are I think I know.

His house is in the village though; He will not see me stopping here To watch his woods fill up with snow.

My little horse must think it queer To stop without a farmhouse near Between the woods and frozen lake The darkest evening of the year.

He gives his harness bells a shake To ask if there is some mistake.

The only other sound’s the sweep Of easy wind and downy flake.

The woods are lovely, dark and deep.

But I have promises to keep, And miles to go before I sleep, And miles to go before I sleep.

Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/MyNorth.com. debwf@traversemagazine.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Contentment, it’s our Favorite color...

Creating a space or curating an existing space, we promise a solution that fits your home and lifestyle.

No matter how complex or simple, don’t overthink.

“Think W.I.N.K”

ARCHITECTURAL DRAWINGS REMODELS NEW BUILDS CUSTOM KITCHEN/BATH COUNTER TOPS CABINETRY MATERIAL AND FURNISHING SELECTIONS

TRILLIUM TRILLIUMSHORE.com Custom Homes

Custom Homes www.trilliumshore.com

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kirsten pappas 231.357.4820

New Showroom Opening Soon 601 E Eighth St, Traverse City

kirsten@winkinteriordesign.com • winkinteriordesign.com

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Up North.

PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES

by ANNA FALLER

Arthritic, gnarled and deformed— the hands of Carol Tompkins-Parker have seen a lifetime of pain, but also of perseverance and beauty.

They inspired her new book, “Creative Hands,” which showcases Carol’s drawings of our region’s residents doing what they love.

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raverse city artist and author Carol TompkinsParker is an expert in defying expectations. The recipient of 38 surgeries to date—“most of them orthopedic,” she says—she’s seen a total of 18 doctors and counting. And against all odds, she’s still here.

But, not without a few battle scars—most notably, her set of very distinctive hands. And those hands have their own story to tell. Ever a frail and skinny kid, “and in pain,” Carol says, she’s been collecting clinicians since she was 12. But what was originally written off as growing pains was actually juvenile rheumatoid arthritis. Compounded by lupus the following year, her physicians weren’t sure she’d see 21. “I’m still skinny and sick and frail,” she says, “but I’m 66 now, so I’ve proven [them] wrong.”

Carol has refused to let her health slow her down, instead choosing to see the beauty of her hands—and the hands of others. And she has no plans of slowing down; in fact, she’s just checked “author” off the list.

Formally released in September, Carol’s debut book, “Creative Hands,” was born the moment Anne Stanton, Mission Point Press’s editorial director, first set eyes on her delicate drawings. “She said that there was NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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photo by Dave Weidner

AN ARTIST’S HANDS

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Crystal Downs Country Club on Lake Michigan

^ NEW UP NORTH

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(231) 651-9711 suzy.voltz@gmail.com

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57 N. Michigan Ave • Beulah • 231-882-4449

BUZZELLI FOODS 1110 E. HAMMOND, TRAVERSE CITY

In addition to freshly made New York-style mozzarella in balls, marinated knots and burrata, this specialty grocery store has grab-andgo options like eggplant parmesan and lasagna along with Italian bowls, gifts, pasta, sweet treats and more. facebook.com/buzzellifoodstcm

Weathervane Terrace Inn & Suites • Only rated hotel in downtown Charlevoix • Free continental breakfast • Walking distance to downtown shopping and restaurants • Indoor hot tubs and fireplaces • Some balconies with views of lake or bridge • Free high speed fiber internet.

A monthly column highlighting new businesses and community updates.

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TRAVERSE MAGAZINE IN THE PALM OF YOUR HAND

Dharamsala TC, a yoga studio also offering mediation training and wellness classes, is launching a second location (the first is on Robinwood Court). The space overlooks the Boardman River and Grand Traverse Bay, and the owners are targeting a late January opening. dharamsalatc.com I’M PLANTY AF 124 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY

My Secret Stash, owned by Karen Hilt, is known for its selection of gifts for all ages from Michigan and American makers, but Karen and her business partner, Garrett Weslock, also have a wide variety of houseplants.

Now, they’ve opened a second store to expand that selection featuring both rare and common species. In the future, Karen plans to have a soil and terrarium bar, potting services, a plant hospital (great idea!) and plant accessories. facebook.com/ImPlantyAF

MYNORTH.COM/SUBSCRIBE 8

Know of a business that just opened or have a fun community update? Let us know at editorial@traversemagazine.com.

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photo by Dave Weidner

nothing else like them out there,” Carol explains, “and that [they] would make a really unique book.”

The rest, of course, is bound in hardcover.

A glossy coffee-table collection, “Creative Hands” combines Carol’s artwork with the photography of creative partner John Robert Williams, to feature the region’s most accomplished makers, along with the single tool that ties them—their hands.

Her carefully-selected subjects range from the hands of local bassist Glenn Wolff with his bow; to fire chief Jim Tuller holding his helmet; to those of her friend Laura Kirby, complete with a pair of gardening shears. “I’d like to think that my book is an introduction to some of the people that are special to the region,” Carol says.

Comprising 30 subjects in its pages, the text took more than a year to compile. “Each portrait takes a good five days of drawing,” says Carol, a process made even more painstaking by the boundaries of her body. “There were times I thought it would never get done.” But as in all other aspects of her life, her singular soldier-on mindset won. To get her through her darkest ordeals, Carol often credits a “very warped sense of humor,” or on occasion, “a hearty stout!” But what others see as strong, for Carol is just standard. “I’m not the kind of person who feels sorry for herself,” she says.

And she never has. An artist from a young age, Carol is a proud alumna of NMC, where she earned her associate’s in drawing and printmaking before pursuing a path in education. “My goal was to get a Bachelor’s in Fine Arts, and then an MFA to teach,” she says. That is until she discovered art education. “I started college in 1974 at Wayne State University in Detroit,” she says—a credential that took a decade to finish due to her health issues— “and I taught art at Detroit East Catholic High School until my health got the better of me.”

Her health has always taken precedence, and it still does, Carol says. However, her focus, now and always, is on the potential; and there is always potential in art. Carol’s definition of art, however, is wholly individual. “You don’t have to be a dancer, or a ceramicist or a bassist to be an artist,” she says. “Beer-making is an art; being the fire chief is an art.

There are various ways to be creative.”

For Carol, being creative is often as simple as putting pencil to paper. “Everyone has a talent,” she says “Everybody is unique.”

“Creative Hands” combines Carol’s artwork with the photography of creative partner John Robert Williams, to feature the region’s most accomplished makers, along with the single tool that ties them— their hands.

“Creative Hands” is available for purchase at Horizon Books in Traverse City and online at Amazon. A percentage of each book sale is being donated to the Lupus Foundation of America.

Anna Faller is a Michigan-based freelance writer and interviewer. She is a University of Michigan graduate, and has contributed to publications throughout the region.

She can be reached at annacfaller@gmail.com.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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PA I D C O N T E N T

OTSEGO RESORT:

A SKI & SNOWBOARD MECCA Hey, skiers and snowboarders—Otsego Resort is now open to the public. The beloved ski retreat is located at the highest elevation in Michigan’s famed snowbelt, and the winter events here (snowshoe wine walk, anyone?) are uniquely northern.

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BY L AU R E L M A N K E A N D M Y N O RT H C U STO M ST U D I O S FO R OTS EG O R ES O RT

tsego Resort is an epic Northern Michigan playground for snow sports lovers. Perched on a wooded hilltop near Gaylord, the resort feels away from it all while remaining easily accessible from I-75. Since 1939, families with memberships to the then-private resort have treasured the tradition of hitting the slopes in Gaylord’s Sturgeon River Valley. In 2017, the beloved retreat opened its doors to the public. Today, generations of historic club members and new visitors alike embrace its family-friendly atmosphere.

Built during the golden era of downhill skiing, the 1960s classic ski club feeling is alive and well throughout the property. A vintage ski groomer parked outside the main entrance welcomes guests with a charming nod to the resort’s history. An engraved brass plaque in the main lodge lobby entitled “That Special Feeling,” explains that the resort’s original founder, Donald B. McClouth, wanted the Otsego Ski Club to foster “comradery and an atmosphere of tradition where lifelong friendships are made on the slopes...”

Though the resort is no longer a private club, those ideals are still present in every detail of the warm-hearted resort, from its hospitable staff to the friendly faces on the ski hills.

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> A Winter Sportsman’s Wonderland Located on a unique portion of Michigan’s snowbelt known for its more than 150 inches of annual snowfall, Otsego Resort is home to five ski lifts, 32 natural-terrain downhill runs, 8.5 miles of groomed cross-country ski and snowshoeing trails and a three-lane tubing run.

Fresh powder is abundant at the resort during peak winter months and the season is extended with the help of premier snow-making and grooming equipment. The downhill ski and snowboarding runs offer a mix of challenge and ease, promising a day of fun on the slopes for a wide range of abilities. Short lift lines make it easy to add variety to your day on the slopes. The approachable difficulty range also makes it an ideal place to teach new skiers and snowboarders. Plus, Otsego Resort offers equipment photos courtesy of Otsego Resort

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PA I D C O N T E N T

rentals on-site and a nationally-recognized Professional Ski Instructor Association (P.S.I.A.) ski school.

The River Cabin is perhaps the most unique and charming feature of the ski resort. The historic cabin is a cozy oasis accessible only by shuttle, snowshoe trail or chair lift.

The picturesque ski cabin in the woods is well worth the extra trek,

their famous Winter Wine Walks.

Spend an evening in the woods that’s fit for a storybook setting and snowshoe along hiking trails from the River Cabin to the Beaver Dam and back.

Along the way, guests enjoy three wine stations with light snacks. The resort is also well-known for its family-friendly events around St. Patrick’s Day that mark the end of the season, including the “Silly Slalom” in which skiers and snowboarders are invited to compete for best costume in a downhill ski display. These unique events are beloved

Since the 1930s, Otsego Resort has been a beloved getaway for snow-loving families seeking outdoor adventure and a cozy retreat for warming up after hitting the slopes and trails.

offering a 360-degree round fireplace area with welcoming wooden benches, concessions and a full bar. It is a favorite pitstop for skiers and snowboarders to refuel and thaw out before hopping on a lift for more fun. > Play All Day,

Get Cozy at Night

After a day of outdoor adventure, settle in near one of the roaring fireplaces located throughout the resort’s five on-site dining venues, main lodge and cozy common lounge areas in several of the homey lodges and chalets. The property’s overnight accommodations include both lodge and chalet options, all complete with a plush bed and northern lodge-style décor.

On-property winter dining options include The Duck Blind Grille, The Sitzmark, The River Cabin and The Logmark. The Duck

Blind Grille boasts a breathtaking 27-mile view of the Sturgeon River Valley. Meanwhile, The Logmark Bar is the perfect spot for a nightcap and a game of pool. There is truly something for everyone—from small bites, to bar and grill classics, to local seasonal fare.

During the winter months, Otsego is host to several special events, like

by longtime members who grew up coming to the resort and who bring their kids back to share in the tradition. This generational experience is what Otsego Resort is all about.

Whether you’re a longtime club member with memories of skiing at Otsego, or a winter sports lover looking for a warm and friendly ski destination, the resort welcomes you. Plan your trip to get lost in river valley wilderness trails, ski through natural terrain and wooded ski runs, warm up with après ski cocoa (or wine!) at the River Cabin, enjoy a heartwarming feast at The Duck Blind Grille and settle in by the fire at The Logmark Bar for a nightcap.

This winter, return to the golden era of downhill skiing and winter vacation leisure at Gaylord’s perfectlytucked-away cold-weather retreat.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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TIX Watch for the MyNorthTix symbol and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

February edited b y LIBBY STALLMAN

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The Owls of Michigan online presentation teaches how, where and when to find and identify (by sight and sound) 10 owl species that can be found in the state. Offered thru North Central Michigan College's Lifelong Learning Club, along with other online events. ncmclifelonglearning.com Boyne Mountain’s ultimate dining experience, Summit-to-Stein Snowshoe Supper, includes a chairlift ride, two hot beverages, snowshoe rental and prime rib and shrimp dinner at Stein Eriksen’s. More dates available. boynemountain.com The Western Brass Quintet has entertained national and international audiences with a cutting-edge, virtuosic repertoire for more than four decades.

Catch a concert at Crooked Tree Arts Center in Petoskey. crookedtree.org The annual North American Vasa returns in 2022, continuing a 46-year tradition celebrating cross-country skiing and winter sports. All races begin and end at Timber Ridge in Traverse City. vasa.org

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Chicago bluesman Toronzo Cannon is a blistering guitarist and soulful vocalist. See him live at Milliken Auditorium in Traverse City. dennosmuseum.org Gopherwoods Concerts welcomes Last Gasp Collective, and the group’s soulful voices and poetic lyricism, to Cadillac Elks Lodge. MyNorthTickets.com

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Join The Cooks’ House in Traverse City for a celebratory evening of bubbles during the Mawby Vineyards Wine Dinner—five courses paired with incredible sparkling wines. MyNorthTickets.com

FRI

Cheer on mushers and their sled dogs while they take on a truly unique 238-mile UP200 (an Iditarod qualifier).

The course goes from Marquette to Grand Marais and back again through forested land and near-wilderness.

More events Feb. 17-21. travelmarquette.com

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Otsego Resort’s Craft Beer Trail features a beautiful winter stroll from the historic River Cabin to a roaring bonfire at the Beaver Dam. Along the trail you'll visit three craft beer tasting stations, each paired with light food. MyNorthTickets.com

SUN

Take your Valentine out for a decadent dinner during Traverse City Restaurant Week, through Feb. 26. downtowntc.com

TUE

Enjoy the annual family-friendly Winterlochen festival (free!), brought to you by Interlochen Center for the Arts and featuring arts exploration and creative fun for children of all ages. interlochen.org

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Please note, as these dates approach, some events may be modified, postponed or canceled. Check online or call ahead to confirm. Throughout the year, visit MyNorth.com/ Northern-Michigan-Events for fun community happenings.

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travel

GALENTINE’S GETAWAY

by HEATHER JOHNSON DUROCHER

Gather up the gals and head north for a weekend together.

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photo by Angela Brown

f it’s been ages since you’ve taken a girls’ trip (maybe that goes without saying), what better month than February to show your besties just how much you adore them. These wintry getaways will help you reconnect, relax and rejuvenate and, in at least one case, experience one seriously epic adventure you’ll all be talking about for years to come.

The “let’s (mostly) stay in, there’s so much to catch up on” getaway: If getting comfy on the couch, sipping wine and talking with old friends for hours sounds like your kind of escape, book a stay at Aurora Cellars’ 1800s Victorian farmhouse on the Leelanau Peninsula. Used for weddings through summer and fall, the farmhouse is now open for winter experiences. Your group can opt for wine and grocery service (stocked for your arrival!), as well as catered à la carte services such as private chef bookings, massages, yoga classes on property and off-site sleigh rides. The winery also recently added a barrel sauna at the house. When you’re ready to stretch your legs, head outdoors and check out the two groomed snowshoe trails around the vineyard (and hike to the Tuscan-inspired tasting room for a variety of whites and reds, and soup made with all-Michigan ingredients). Igloo seating is also an option.

Contact Missy Check at eventstaff@auroracellars.com for more information on farmhouse experiences. auroracellars.com The “let’s relax, but also exercise a little” getaway: How about a weekend at an Up North resort that provides the per-

fect mix of physical movement and ample downtime (think massages, pedicures and facials)? First, get moving by stepping into cross-country skis or snowshoes, hopping on a fat tire bike or gliding across the on-site ice rink—all of which are outdoor activities available at Crystal Mountain in Thompsonville. You’ll find additional trails for exploring at Michigan Legacy Art Park, located on resort grounds in a densely wooded 30-acre preserve. After breaking a sweat, indulge in some well-deserved pampering at the Crystal Spa. Book a stay at the resort’s Cottages at Water’s Edge, which sleep six to nine people, feature a gas-log fireplace or gas wood stove, and are just steps away from the slopes. Find wine and snacks at the nearby Mountain Market, where the folks there will fill your fridge before you arrive. crystalmountain.com The “we’re never going to forget this” getaway: For the most adventurous, a guided ice-climbing trip in the U.P. is an experience you’ll always remember. Down Wind Sports— with locations in Munising, Marquette and Houghton—offers a variety of trips, whether you’ve climbed before or it’s your first time navigating deep snow and frozen landscapes.

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore in Munising is the center of the ice-climbing world across the Mackinac Bridge, and where most of the excursions take place. Book a stay in Munising or find a larger selection of lodging options in Marquette, about a 45-minute drive west. For a bit of luxury after your outdoor pursuits, book a stay at a downtown Airbnb apartment in Marquette (search “Spacious Downtown Apt3 blocks from Lake Superior”) that sleeps five and is within walking distance of more than 15 bars and restaurants. We suggest warming up at Drífa Brewing Company, Michigan’s first cooperatively-owned craft brewery and one of only approximately 12 in the nation. shopdownwindsports.com Heather Johnson Durocher writes from Traverse City, where she lives with her husband, Joe, and their three kids.

She is the founder of the travel and active lifestyle site MichiganRunnerGirl.com and also hosts a weekly podcast.

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up in michigan

PLAYING IN POWDER

by EMILY HOPCIAN

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n a friday morning in early february, following a fresh snowfall, I met my friend Jeff at his family’s cabin in the woods between Crystal and Platte Lakes.

It was a day of firsts for me—mainly my first time going backcountry skiing.

“Backcountry skiing? You mean cross-country skiing, right?” Throughout the preceding months, as I mentioned to friends and family here in Northern Michigan that I was learning to backcountry ski, that was typically the response.

While there are some similarities, backcountry and crosscountry skiing are not the same. Backcountry skiing is done outside controlled areas and uses equipment that allows the skier to move uphill and downhill on the same set of skis.

At the start of the winter season, as I realized I wouldn’t be able to return to my home base in Argentina in those months due to the pandemic, I made a promise to myself to create my own outdoor adventures here and challenge myself in new ways. For me, that came in the form of investing in backcountry ski gear and learning the ins and outs with Jeff, a family friend who is not only an expert skier but also a professional ski instructor.

I grew up learning to ski at Crystal Mountain. Our family skied a decent amount throughout my childhood, but I’d only skied a handful of times in the past 15 years.

Last winter, while we waited to get out in the backcountry, Jeff and I skied at Crystal Mountain, where he helped me improve my form and technique.

Then, in early February outside Jeff ’s cabin, with enough snow on the ground, I unloaded my ski gear from my car and organized everything with Jeff on the driveway. After sliding into our ski boots, I watched as Jeff adhered his skins to the bottom of his backcountry skis and I did the same.

Skins, as well as special bindings and boots, enable you to switch between “walk” and “ski” modes. These strips of

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synthetic material attach to the underside of skis and give traction, allowing you to move uphill without backsliding.

When your bindings are set to “walk,” only the toe of your boot is locked into the binding, similar to a cross-country ski, allowing your heel to lift as you step and glide forward on your ski.

As the sun shone through the trees, casting tall shadows across the wintry landscape, Jeff and I “skinned” along a road near his cabin. We traversed through a meadow and zigzagged up a small hill. It took a few climbs for me to get used to the unnatural sensation of hiking uphill on skis. I kept thinking I’d slide backward with every step—I even braced for it at times—though my skins kept that from happening, even in the slightest.

At the top of that hill, Jeff and I packed the snow down with our skis and stepped out of the bindings. We removed the skins and switched our bindings from “walk” to “ski.” I slid my toes into the bindings, one at a time, and clicked my heels into position.

I was a bit nervous about the downhill run as there were different variables and obstacles out there compared to a ski resort run—mostly trees, shrubs and natural debris hidden beneath the snow—but I was also incredibly excited. We had gotten to this spot on our own, and we were the only ones there. There’s something to the peace and silence of skiing in this way, of “working for your turns” among the calm, natural beauty of a winter landscape.

Jeff gave me some pointers before skiing down the short-and-sweet run. I followed, feeling a bit wobbly as I focused on what he’d told me and felt the connection between my body, the skis and the snow. Yet I also felt so free. A friend once told me that skiing makes her feel as though she has superpowers, as though she can fly, and that day, those words made sense to me. Though focused, I felt alive.

photo by Beth Price

Backcountry skiing brings freedom —and untouched snow.

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At the bottom of the run, Jeff and I stepped out of our skis, re-adhered our skins, changed the settings on our bindings and headed for another hill.

The second run was a fun one that swept through a mix of terrain with little hills and some even ground. Once you get the hang of it, there’s a soothing rhythm to these climbs, runs and moments in the backcountry.

A new perspective Aside from that day, we only got to backcountry ski one other time last winter. The second day, we met up at a space above Crystal Lake. The snow was deeper than our first time out, and man, skiing deep powder is different and challenging, but also such a blast.

In deeper snow, it felt as though I was learning to downhill ski again for the first time, since I’d only ever skied on groomed resort runs. I somehow managed to not wipe out on my first and second runs. However, on the third, with my backpack changing my center of balance, I fell a handful of times, slowly collapsing into the deep snow, which swiftly engulfed me.

After a few times skinning up the hill and skiing down, Jeff and I decided to explore more of the area. We skied down a road in the woods, popped out in a clearing and encountered sweeping views of hills, fields and forests down to the shores of Lake Michigan.

We could see Sleeping Bear Dunes and the Manitou Islands. I was in awe of the quiet; the still and calm; the untouched terrain, blanketed in snow.

The experience and the environment that surrounded us reminded me just how special Northern Michigan is and what a treat it is to enjoy it in this way.

While the pandemic meant I did not return to Argentina last year, I’m grateful for the natural beauty that surrounds me here, the relative peace of our winters and the opportunity to learn something new alongside a kind, patient and talented friend while exploring and appreciating this space I love so much in a completely new-to-me way.

Emily Hopcian is a writer, editor and content producer based in Bariloche, Argentina. emilyhopcian.com

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UPCOMING EVENTS 2/10

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L A ST GA SP COLLECTIVE GOPHERWOOD CONCERT S

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MAWBY VINEYARDS WINE DINNER THE COOKS’ HOUSE

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outdoors

Drive is a loop, so you can choose to go left or right at the “Y” in the road, which is just a few minutes’ walk past the toll house.

Stop #2: Glen Lake Overlook

Head to the right at the “Y” on Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive and travel a half mile down the road to the wooden covered bridge that puts the “scenic” in this stretch of the park. Most of the snowshoe and ski tracks turn back at the bridge; only the hardiest keep going. If you have the gumption, you’ll need to put in another mile, a lot of it uphill, before the world drops away on your right, revealing views of both Big and Little Glen Lake, M-22 and the famous outline of Alligator Hill in the distance.

SNOWSHOE PIERCE STOCKING

by KANDACE CHAPPLE

Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive is on everyone’s Sleeping Bear Dunes must-dune list in the summer. But have you explored it in the heart of winter?

photo by Kandace Chapple

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ntouched. unkept. uninhabited.

It’s as gorgeous as it sounds. But you can’t take in Pierce Stocking’s snow-dusted dunes and ice-topped lakes by vehicle, not at this time of year. You’ll need to dig out those snowshoes or cross-country skis and break a sweat.

You’ll find the 7.4-mile road looping through the park is just as Mother Nature left it. The drive is closed to cars in the winter and unplowed, leaving beautiful wide swaths of unmarred snow to traverse, side by side with a buddy.

Combine that with stunning views and 120 inches of snow on average each year, and you’ve got an awesome afternoon adventure.

Most people choose to hike to one of the overlooks (there are 12 marked stops along the drive, including five overlooks).

Plan on two to four hours to do an out-and-back route. There are rolling hills and steep inclines along the road. Don’t let this stop you. Bring a water bottle, a snack and a love for Northern Michigan’s winters.

TWO OVERLOOKS TO TACKLE

After parking, walk to the wooden “toll house” (you can see it from the parking lot). You’ll likely see a footpath already beaten down the unplowed road. Pierce Stocking Scenic

Stop #9: Lake Michigan Overlook

Head to the left at the “Y,” and trek about two miles to the most astonishing view of sand and sky you’ll ever find. The boardwalk is 450 feet above Lake Michigan and the sky can be anything from a brilliant blue to a deep winter gray.

(Even the cloudiest days are worth it!)

TIPS FOR YOUR TREK

Parking: There’s a plowed parking lot to the right when you pull in, as well as clean modern outhouses.

Entrance fees: Vehicles need a park entrance pass. Purchase a seven-day pass for $25 or an annual pass for $45 at the Philip A. Hart Visitor Center in Empire.

Pets: Dogs aren’t allowed in this part of the park from Dec. 1–March 31.

Map: There are eight miles to explore, none of them groomed. Study the map at the parking lot and pick your loop. Tip: Snap a photo with your phone for reference!

Visit nps.gov/slbe for more information.

Kandace Chapple is a freelance writer and founder of the Michigan Girl Bike Club (which is a Snowshoe Club in the winter!). She can be reached at kandacechapple.com.

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POWDER HIGHWAY

THE NOQUEMANON TRAIL NETWORK COVERS A LOT OF GROUND, WITH ITS EIGHT TRAIL SYSTEMS STRETCHING FROM MUNISING TO BIG BAY AND PATHS THAT SPEAK TO EVERY KIND OF OUTDOOR ENTHUSIAST YEAR-ROUND.

By Heather Johnson Durocher Photography by Liam Kaiser and Floline Media

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AVID

mountain biker? The Noquemanon Trail Network's (NTN) South Trails’ 45+ miles of single-track that hug the southern end of Marquette treat you to waterfalls, deep woods and hilltop views, and what many consider the best riding in the Midwest. Hikers and runners also find their outdoor bliss exploring the rocky switchbacks, rooty inclines and meandering routes that make up this non-motorized trail network in Michigan’s rugged and staggeringly beautiful central Upper Peninsula.

This time of year, Noquemanon’s 35 miles of groomed winter single-track and more than 125 kilometers of Nordic ski trails entice us to keep doing what we love most in the Great Lakes State: get outside, embrace the elements and squeeze out every last adventurous second. A snowy, daylong Noquemanon excursion fits the bill perfectly.

That is what Lori Hauswirth lives for—spending time in nature, helping others discover the benefits of trails and taking good care of them—and it’s a passion and dedication that brought the lifelong U.P. resident back to her hometown of Marquette in 2018.

“There’s a reason I live here, why I came back and why I am still here,” says Lori, who was named executive director of the Noquemanon Trail Network after relocating from the Keweenaw, where she lived for more than two decades. Prior to coming to NTN, she served six years as executive director of the Copper Harbor Trails Club in a split role with the International Mountain Bicycling Association as an associate region director.

“Trails are definitely the driver for me as to where I want to be and where I want to recreate, and more and more it’s becoming a priority in people’s lives,” she says.

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HAVING THIS PRISTINE PATCH OF NATURE, ALL TO OURSELVES,

The NTN has seen a significant uptick in trail users throughout the pandemic—similar to outdoor spaces everywhere—and Noquemanon visits continue to rise. And rising right alongside is the 20-year-old organization’s commitment to secure, develop, maintain and promote the use of the trail network.

This means continuing to work closely with more than 45 landowners, both public and private, for daily trail access, and more than 90 landowners for races and other trail-related events. This is all done through a variety of agreements, easements and ownership.

“What we have speaks highly of the commitment of primarily volunteers over the years to develop these systems and do the hard work— none of it’s been easy,” Lori says. “We’re finally at a point where the trails are valued. That’s a big thing when people realize there’s value in these trails, that they’re not just a path in the woods, and that they’re contributing to quality of life, the community and making Marquette a great place to live and visit.”

Much of what the NTN strives to do is educate the community and visitors about the trails and how to support them, Lori says. And that includes helping people understand that “some of this access is fragile,” she adds. “We’re greatly re20

lying on sometimes year-to-year agreements, and just being friendly and kind to others is a big deal.”

FRIENDS HAVE SPOKEN highly of the optimal skiing conditions at Noquemanon over the years, though I’d yet to experience it firsthand—until a recent midwinter trip North. Up until that point, my husband, Joe, and I had only navigated parts of the trail network on foot or two wheels—satisfying and challenging adventures we’d tackled and savored during camping trips with our kids throughout their childhood.

For this most recent trip to Noquemanon, Joe and I wanted to get on cross-country skis. Having had minimal experience on skis in recent years, we chose the beginner-friendly Forestville Trailhead and adjacent groomed trails for our excursion.

We were thrilled to have found a great Airbnb in Marquette for the weekend, located just off Third Street, an area within walking distance of downtown that’s lined with local shops and eateries. Blackrocks Brewery is across the street from the Victorian-house-turned-apartments, and our go-to breakfast spot, Bodega, is a stone’s throw away.

A bonus with this trek to Noquemanon: meeting up with photographer Liam Kaiser, whose ties to Marquette as a now-

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IT FELT LIKE WE WERE FAR AWAY FROM CIVILIZATION.

graduated Northern Michigan University student and whose passion for the outdoors made him the ideal skiing guide (he also happens to be from Traverse City, too, so we had an instant connection). We made plans to meet early Saturday morning for coffee at Contrast Coffee on Third Street before caravanning to the Forestville Trailhead, about a 15-minute drive and where rentals are available on a first-come, first-served basis.

We arrived just before 9 a.m. and after parking at the trailhead, we walked to the nearby chalet where we were among a handful of skiers waiting to purchase a day pass and rent equipment (skis, snowshoes and fat bikes are all available). A couple

of NTN volunteers soon arrived and welcomed us inside.

In the chalet, as we eyed the posted trail map, we learned that this particular section of the NTN is a 50K system, including a range of difficulty from beginner to expert. Trails are groomed for classic and skate skiing, with 20K of the trails open to leashed dogs.

Lori and her team often recommend the Forestville Trailhead to newer skiers, given these trails provide options for different loops, point-to-point routes and varying distances.

The trails are beginner friendly, though “on any of our trails, you’re going to have a little bit of climbing,” she says.

Joe and I decided to go with classic skis this time, while Liam opted for skate skis. We didn’t have a specific distance in mind, but determined that about two hours total, taking an out-and-back route, sounded good to all of us. I also made an impulse buy: a bright orange and blue NTN pom-pom winter hat, because it matched my jacket and will serve If you plan to ski Noquemanon, you’ll find numerous well-groomed, snow-packed trails, including Forestville, Saul Head, Fit Strip, Big Bay Pathway, Al Quaal and Valley Spur. For rentals and day passes, stop by the Forestville Trailhead.

Learn more at noquetrails.org.

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as a reminder of this day.

Our skis and poles in hand (a very reasonable $15/day for adults; NMU students receive free rentals), we headed back outside. We took a few moments to ski back and forth near our vehicles, to be sure everything fit well and we were feeling comfortable.

It took me a bit to get used to the straight-forward motion of classic skiing—I am more used to the pushand-glide sideways move of skate

E V E N T S AT NOQUEMANON Noquemanon Trail Network partners with up to 90 land owners for the various events held on the trails throughout the year. “Our events are fundraisers for us,” says Lori Hauswirth, the NTN’s executive director. “It’s really about getting people out on the trails, enjoying the outdoors.”

HERE ARE NTN’S CORE EVENTS:

NOQUEMANON SKI MARATHON Jan. 21–22, 2022 “If you’re a skier and haven’t done the Noque, I encourage everybody to come on up and check it out,” Lori says.

noquemanon.com

EH WINTER EXPERIENCE skiing. But, soon enough, I got into a groove and we made our way toward the woods and the groomed section for classic skiers.

Joe took the lead and I followed him, reminding myself to look up and around at the wintry scene. We’d taken a fairly easy path, with a few rolling hills. It was tranquil, just the three of us sliding through the snow.

A slight wind whispered through the tree branches, carrying a shimmer of snow in its wake. We could see our breath in puffs, and my nose was cold, but I felt my body warming up.

We seemed to have this beautiful place all to ourselves. Eventually, we did encounter a few other people— the skate skiers whizzed by and I couldn’t help but feel a little jealous. I was yearning to move at a faster clip, and I’d no doubt have had an easier time climbing the inclines on skate skis. Next time, I told myself. Joe, meanwhile, seemed perfectly content and was in the zone. We enjoyed a peaceful silence, save for the moments one of us pointed out a trail marker or sign, or a particularly tall pine that was perfectly draped in snow.

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Feb. 5, 2022 This is NTN’s newest event and features skiing, snow biking and snowshoeing.

noquetrails.org/calendar

About an hour in, we decided to turn around and head back. The few climbs on our way out meant some downhills on the way to the chalet.

They’re small slopes, really, but we picked up some speed that was exhilarating. We crossed paths with more skiers, including a few with their leashed four-legged companions trotting alongside them.

Along the way back, we stopped and took a few moments to savor the forest’s silence and breathe in the cold, clean air. I thought about how Marquette wasn’t far away at all. Maybe my just-starting-togrumble stomach was prompting the thought, or it was that having this pristine patch of nature, all to ourselves, was so serene it felt like we were far away from civilization.

MARQUETTE TRAILS FESTIVAL

June 24–26, 2022 Featuring biking, trail running and hiking. marquettetrailsfestival.com

MARQUETTE TRAIL 50 Aug. 19–20, 2022 A trail running event featuring a 50K, 50-miler, 5K and 1-miler. marquettetrail50.com

MARQUETTE FALL ENDURO Oct. 1, 2022 A staged mountain bike race, this is a growing sport and the event typically fills.

marquetteenduro.com

This page: The Noquemanon Ski Marathon’s Animoosh Skijor 10K features cross-country skiers being pulled by one or two dog teams.

(Note: The Animoosh Skijor race will not be offered in 2022.) Opposite: Those interested in participating in the 2022 Ski Marathon can choose from a 50K race, 24K, 12K or a 15-mile snowshoe race, among other events.

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NOQUEMANON’S SKI TRAILS ENTICE US TO KEEP DOING WHAT WE LOVE MOST IN THE GREAT LAKES STATE: GET OUTSIDE AND

SQUEEZE OUT EVERY LAST ADVENTUROUS SECOND. Lori knows that feeling. “People don’t realize how spoiled we are,” she tells me later. “The trail systems here are amazing—how close they are to town and accessible, but how far away you feel when you’re out enjoying them.”

We couldn’t agree more.

AVID AND MORE EXPERIENCED skiers often gravitate toward the

route that’s known as the Noquemanon Ski Marathon trail.

“What’s nice is we have the main Noque Ski Marathon trail that cuts through the whole system,” Lori says.

The Ski Marathon, a popular fundraising event for NTN at the end of each January, features several races including a 50K. Starting in Ishpeming, the marathon takes skiers through remote terrain, including the Dead River basin, and eventually to the dome, a well-known landmark in Marquette. While the entirety of the race route is only groomed for race weekend, you can ski a good length of it any day of the week throughout winter.

Other favorite winter trails Lori recommends: • For an in-town skiing experience, hop on the Fit Strip for a few kilometers of classic skiing. The path is lit at night, too.

• Blueberry Ridge, just south of town, is a favorite of many. It’s Michigan Department of Natural Resources property.

• Valley Spur, near Munising, offers a remote feel and great terrain. Located in a national forest, it features routes for all levels of skiers.

• Toward Big Bay, you’ll find a couple of systems including the Big Bay Pathway that’s groomed just for classic skiing. “It’s lovely.”

• NTN’s north and south trails are single-track, primarily groomed for snow biking. They’re also open for snowshoeing, mountain biking and trail running.

As for where Lori gets her ski on?

“If it’s just perfect outside, sometimes what I like to do is shuttle with friends to our County Road 510 trailhead and ski back to Forestville Trailhead. It’s just a lovely ski. It’s roughly 15K. I’ll take my dogs with me, too, to get in some snow time. And if I don’t ski, I will go snow biking. I live a couple blocks from the trails, so it’s easy to roll up the hill and jump onto the trail.”

Heather Johnson Durocher writes from Traverse City, where she lives with her husband Joe and their three kids.

She is the founder of the travel and active lifestyle site MichiganRunnerGirl.com and also hosts a weekly podcast.

Liam Kaiser is a visual storyteller whose work documents people and our experiences in the world. He’s got a strong love for the outdoors and the grit that comes with it. You can follow his adventures on Instagram @LiamKaiserCreative.

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raise a

glass winter to

MICHIGAN BEER LOVER EMILY BENNETT (AKA MITTEN BEER GIRL) IS KNOWN FOR VISITING EVERY BREWERY IN THE STATE IN 2017. HERE, SHE SHARES A MINI BEER TOUR, IDEAL FOR A WINTER WEEKEND, WITH STOPS AT SOME OF THE COZIEST, SNOW-LOVING BREWERIES IN THE NORTH.

BY EMILY BENNETT / PHOTOS BY MICHAEL MURPHY IV

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This page: Pond Hill Farm knows how to make an entrance! Yes, those are upturned trees repurposed as epic posts.

Opposite: Burnt Marshmallow Brewstillery & Rudbeckia Winery's flagship beer, S’more Porter, served in Riedel glassware.

driving hours for a beer,

on its surface, seems foolish. In 2017, I drove more than 12,000 miles, sometimes in questionable weather for many hours, in an attempt to complete a personal quest to visit every brewery in Michigan in one year. Now, at almost 500 breweries, the state is beginning to reflect communities of the pre-prohibition era, punctuated by locally owned, small-scale locations that serve as jovial gathering places. At its outset, my quest was arguably a somewhat frivolous adventure, but it was a winter trip that year, touring Harbor Springs, through Petoskey and on to Boyne City, in which I learned one of many lessons: traditionally warmer weather destinations are even more incredible when visited during the snowy season. And it was that 2017 trip that inspired this shorter craft beer tour to some of my favorite breweries in the state. Cheers!

the tour STOP

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P O N D H I L L FA R M HARBOR SPRINGS

Without question, driving along M-119’s storybook Tunnel of Trees (designated by the state of Michigan as a “Scenic Heritage Route”) when it’s blanketed in snow is unforgettable. The arched entry to Pond Hill Farm sits nestled at a 90-degree bend on M-119, between Harbor Springs and Cross Village. After a fresh snowfall, the farm is an ideal vision of Michigan in winter.

Marci and Jimmy Spencer are second-generation owners with a pervasive love for Northern Michigan and the land which they share with thousands of visitors throughout the year.

Jimmy’s family purchased the farm more than 20 years ago, and what once began as a roadside stand is now a destination in its own right. Although not common, Marci describes their decision to open a farm brewery as a substantial part of diversification; simply providing produce for area residents was not a sustainable business model for their family. With this outsidethe-box approach, they utilize the working farm as a platform to provide educational programs for children and give families a safe space to explore and enjoy the outdoors 360 days of the year while also welcoming visitors to their tasting room.

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The importance of local, sustainably grown products is not only evident in their cafe menu, but also the beer menu, which features a variety of rotating styles. Head Brewer Trace Redmond creates traditional American beer styles as well as seasonal winter ales and imperial stouts packaged for purchase in Pond Hill’s Farm Store.

BEER HIGHLIGHT: Taking advantage of seasonality, Trace spent three years perfecting the strain of yeast used in fermenting the farm’s saison line of beer. Saisons originated in the French-speaking area of Belgium, and were brewed by farmers with whatever ingredients were available, made to be consumed and not sold. In keeping with the spirit of the style, Trace offers his own interpretation by utilizing malt, hops, fruit and other ingredients sourced from the farm and neighboring businesses. Look for it on tap or bottled and beautifully wax-dipped for purchase in the Farm Store.

Pond Hill Farm

Don’t Miss:

5699 S. Lake Shore Dr., Harbor Springs 231.526.3276 @pondhillfarm pondhill.com

• Biergarten tent • The view of Lake Michigan from the peak of the sledding hill • Gnome house scavenger hunt • Snowshoeing and crosscountry ski trails

Next-Level Beer: Farmhand Saison

Winter Event Highlights:

Food:

• Pizza on the Farm

Wood-fired pizzas and a highly recommended parmesan-crusted grilled cheese

• President’s Weekend Celebration • Trail-Side Tasting Event

This page: Do yourself a favor and add homemade ricotta and hot honey to your pizza at Pond Hill Farm, but note, Pizza on the Farm is only available on select dates.

Opposite right: Reserve a private fire pit at Burnt Marshmallow and they'll keep you stocked with plenty of wood so you can stoke the fire.

STOP

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BURNT MARSHMALLOW BREWSTILLERY & RUDBECKIA WINERY PETOSKEY

Traveling south, back through Petoskey, over another beautiful rolling hill, sits (what I feel is) the best-named brewery in all of Michigan. Vickie Wysokinski and her husband, John, purchased the land for Burnt Marshmallow Brewstillery and Rudbeckia Winery more than 10 years ago. With John’s experience in beer and her experience in wine, the area was ideal for their vision of a brewery, winery and distillery. Creating the business, also a family endeavor, was the easy part, the name, not so much. Per Vickie, after much contemplation and family discussion, her preteen granddaughter grew tired of the conversation topic stating: “Why don’t you just name it Burnt Marshmallow?”

The name stuck.

Today, the small business has grown into an expansive vineyard overlooking an outdoor patio with a seating area perfect for a winter afternoon.

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another lesson learned during my year of travel: beer draws customers in, but the heart and commitment of the craft brewery owner is what builds communities.

customers during the pandemic, Vickie and John have created a welcoming outdoor space over the past two and a half years that includes two private, heated igloos and multiple fire pit seating areas available by reservation.

The beautifully landscaped igloos are 16 feet across, complete with electric and internet access and worth preplanning for reservations.

BEER HIGHLIGHT: In creating the brewstillery’s flagship beer, “S’more Porter,” Matt adds 20 bags of marshmallows, two pounds of graham cracker crumbs and four pounds of cocoa to the backbone porter recipe. The American porter beer style is a dark beer, with British roots dating back to the 1700s, known for a roasty, sometimes chocolatey/ coffee character that supports this beer’s unique floating addition: a burnt marshmallow. Served up in specialty Riedel glassware.

Burnt Marshmallow Brewstillery & Rudbeckia Winery 3379 Lake Grove Rd., Petoskey 231.622.4173 @burntmarshbrew burntmarshmallow.beer

Next-Level Beer: S’more Porter

Food: Small plates and snacks

Vickie credits the success of their growing libation portfolio to Matt Hopf who came to the brewing, distilling and winemaking industry with extensive culinary experience as a chef. This is reflected in the unconventional twists he puts on traditional beer styles. Although the beer menu rotates frequently, two beers stand out and continue to be well received: “S’more Porter” and “Maybe I’ll Catch Fire”—a spicy citrus ale made with ghost peppers.

Some beer traditionalists may balk at the addition of peppers or graham crackers (much less a marshmallow) to a beer, but this is where Matt’s culinary background shines. The foundational nature of the beer styles, porter and amber respectively, provide balance to potentially overpowering ingredients, marrying them into enjoyable, and most importantly, not overwhelming flavor profiles. They simply taste good, which is what beer should do.

When visiting, be sure to dress for the weather as it only seems right to enjoy a porter while standing next to one of the bonfires located on the grounds or trekking the property in snowshoes. To ease the minds of their

Don't Miss: • Bonfires and heated igloos • Wine, cider & spirits for non-beer friends (try the Sparkling Wine and “Chocuterie” Chocolate Tasting) • Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing

Winter Event Highlights: • Valentine’s Day Experience, Feb. 12-14 • President’s Weekend • February’s release of Summer Music Schedule

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STOP

3

STIGGS BREWERY & KITCHEN B OY N E C I T Y

Another lesson learned during my year of travel: beer draws customers in, but the heart and commitment of the craft brewery owner is what builds communities. This is at the core of Stiggs Brewery & Kitchen, located in Boyne City. Mike Castiglione, founder and head brewer, embraces paying it forward and honoring the past.

In identifying a location for his business, Mike chose a building of significance—the 1899 White Timber Logging Company—investing heavily in maintaining the integrity of the historical designation. The brewery and restaurant’s decor speak to the 120+ years over which the lumber, railroad and newspaper industries of the area occupied the space.

As Thanksgiving approached in 2020, the year spent in hardship and isolation for many in the area inspired his business and staff to deliver more than 100 holiday meals to those living in local retirement communities. The idea took hold, and more than a year later, “Stiggs Feed-AFriend” is now a 501(c)3 nonprofit providing meals from their menu every Sunday from 4-8 p.m. October through May to those in need.

BEER HIGHLIGHT: It was Mike’s traditional science education that led him to the hobby of home brewing. Today, his 2.5 bbl Psycho Brew system (built in Greenville, Michigan) turns out a variety of seasonal and experimental beers. Although Mike keeps a number of traditional ales on rotation, his love of brewing lagers is evident on the tap list.

Grandpa Cal’s Wagon Beer is an easy-drinking American Lager, made with corn and traditional malts. The yeast used to make lager beers is in a different classification than that of ales, requiring fermentation at much cooler temperatures. Once fermentation is complete, an extended period of maturation (referred to as lagering) at or near freezing temperatures for weeks to months is required. Due to the longer time from brewhouse to glass and the accompanying cost and time considerations, lagers are less commonly seen in craft breweries—but luckily for us, Mike has made that commitment..

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Opposite: Sign up for Stiggs’ “Brew School” and brew a custom keg of beer with your friends and Mike Castiglione to be featured at the brewery. Employers interested in “Brewing Up Business” can have Stiggs brew you 100 gallons of beer and host a private Brew Day Party and a public Tap Day Party.

Stiggs Brewery & Kitchen 112 S. Park St., Boyne City 231.497.6100 @stiggsbrewery stiggsbrewingcompany.com

Next-Level Beer: Grandpa Cal’s Wagon Beer

Food: Full lunch/dinner menu with on-site smoked meat options

Don't Miss: • Private dining in The Vault Room • The building’s rich history • Smoke Shack weekday lunch additions

Winter Event Highlights: • Outdoor ‘Stiggloo’ dining —igloos available by reservation • Sunday celebrity bartenders benefiting Feed-a-Friend

Many of us are fortunate enough to claim a Northern Michigan brewery as our own. It is a place of comfort and happiness, shared with friends and neighbors as part of the soul of our communities.

The most profound lesson I embraced over the course of my beer year returned to mind while I stood gazing at a distant Lake Michigan from the top of Pond Hill Farm: Some of life’s most sincere moments of joy occur when we drive a few miles, walk through the door of a local brewery and ask what is on tap.

Emily Bennett writes from Hastings, Michigan. Her interest in the culture of fermented things and passion for telling stories leads to numerous adventures throughout her home state. She uses every new brewery opening as an excuse to travel, especially to head North.

Michael Murphy IV is a Northern Michigan wedding, portrait and commercial photographer based in Charlevoix who believes in the power of candid images and capturing real, authentic, unaltered moments.

3

Heading north for a longer weekend away? Add some, or all, of these nearby breweries to your tour.

B E A R D S B R E W E RY 215 E. Lake St., Petoskey 231.753.2221 beardsbrewery.com Beards is a must visit when enjoying downtown Petoskey. Feeling adventurous? Ask if the Serendipity Hot Chocolate is on tap and enjoy it on the outside patio.

B I E R ’ S I N WO O D B R E W E RY 17959 Ferry Rd., Charlevoix 231.675.7632 biersinwoodbrewery.com We love Bier’s location, tucked in a white Victorian house behind a bright red schoolhouse that’s home to Bier Art Gallery and Pottery Studio.

The outdoor fire pit is cozy, too!

B I E R É D E M AC 14277 Mackinaw Hwy., Mackinaw City 231.427.7007 bieredemac.com Just below the Mighty Mac sits the northernmost craft brewery in the Lower Peninsula. A recent partnership with Smelted Pizza Co. means you can order up a wood-fired pie to pair with a pint.

More Breweries

for a Weekend Tour

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Caitlin Davies and Banana Cream Pie, the husky/ pointer mix she adopted from Cherryland Humane Society.

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Local rescues facilitate lifelong friendships for pets and people.

kim schneider photos by courtney kent

text by

they

the match game

were known across Northern Michigan as the “dessert dogs,” the kind but emaciated souls rescued from a hoarding case in which some were chained outdoors for as long as two weeks with no water or food. The Cherryland Humane Society took in as many as capacity would allow and gave them the sweetest names the staff could conjure up—Brownie, Fudge, Mousse, Pie—as a way to provide some counterbalance, at least symbolically.

When Caitlin Davies of Traverse City’s Old Mission Peninsula met Pie, she knew there was a good chance that the husky and pointer mix—who cowered when approached but still managed a quick greeting—was meant for her.

Now “Banana Cream Pie” can reliably count on her evening kibble. Not just that, it comes topped with fresh-cooked chicken, shredded and placed on top. There’s an evening walk down her favorite country lane—her tail now up instead of lowered in fear—meticulously timed treat breaks and quiet nights at home like both members of the household prefer.

With the case of Pie, success came from Cherryland’s support combined with Davies’ background. Her training and work in mental health therapy and with autistic children helped her develop patience and understanding, and the structured work-from-home life she was already living was what this particular dog seemed to crave.

“I might have liked one with energy, but my brother always told me you have to find the pet who fits the life you have, not the life you want,” Davies says. “We get each other. I tell her all the time, ‘We’re just two ladies trying our best.’”

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Regional rescues like Cherryland facilitate matches with tools like indepth surveys. Are you easygoing in interaction with your animals, moderate or strict? Is your dream pet energetic, a quiet snuggler or something in between? What is your daily routine, who else lives in the house and what’s your training plan? Answers help the staff make a successful forever match.

And after the adoption? Cherryland stays connected for additional “meet and greets,” training, questions and future needs.

When there was national news about shelters emptying at the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic because people stuck at home sought companionship with new pets, Northern Michigan rescues like Cherryland and the Charlevoix Area Humane Society kept their careful screening in place. As a result, there have been fewer than predicted animal returns. But, even given the high rate of adoptions during the onset of COVID, there is still a need for adoption and foster families.

“It’s been a roller coaster,” says Tia Barbera, the shelter animal welfare manager and animal behavioralist at Cherryland Humane Society.

“We have had a few fantastic months of adoptions, whereas six months ago our adoptions were a bit lower. There are some weeks when every single one of our kennels/condos are full.

There are other weeks when we have over 20 pets in foster! We have also noticed recently more animal neglect/abuse cases, and we need more attention to help them recover and grow.”

A shortage of veterinarians and affordable spay and neuter programs has brought a boom in kittens in need of adoption, notes Anna Dickerson-Homan, who runs The Kitten Factory rescue in Higgins Lake. Without the ability for timely spay and neuter appointments, combined with some cats getting pregnant before appointments came up, the resulting need for both homes and TNR (trap, neuter and return) volunteers has spiraled.

32

“The world needs a little kindness, and that goes for humans and animals.”

–Anna Dickerson-Homan

A national marketing expert by day, Dickerson-Homan uses her skills to meet those needs creatively in her Kitten Factory avocation. Using clever graphics, such as a cool cat with a martini glass, on merchandising like Tshirts, mugs and stickers, and videos that have grown her TikTok account to more than 100,000 followers, she turns the crazy cat lady stigma on its head while marketing kittens in need of adoption and reducing the stigma of taking in those with special needs.

Other shelters find similarly creative ways to facilitate connections. In Boyne City, the Charlevoix Area Humane Society offers a pet “check-out” program—much like you might a library

book—for a companion on a walk or overnight snuggle time. There, seniors can adopt an adult cat for no fee at all, another win-win, says Executive Director Scott MacKenzie. This program makes adoption easy for those who’ve lost a life partner or been secluded, and easy for the pet, too.

“Maybe it’s projecting, but when (pets) know they’re going home, you can see there’s a spring in their step, and there’s enthusiasm in their body language,” MacKenzie says. “And when a bond is made between an adopter and one of these dogs, it’s so personally rewarding—you know it helped save a life not just in the dog but sometimes even the people.”

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These seniors adopted one another Retired Boyne City residents Henry and Donna Erber knew when the pandemic began that their annual sojourns to Arizona would end and the resulting lifestyle would be a good fit for a dog—something they hadn’t had since their kids were teens. The perfect match was obvious when Henry, age 75, met Quincy, who is something like 112 in dog years.

“I was looking for a lab,” Henry says. “The staff (at Charlevoix Area Humane Society) said, ‘We’ve got just the one for you.’ They brought him out and he walked right over to me. I scratched his ears. He nuzzled up to us, and I said, ‘We’ll take him. He’s the dog we want.’”

Quincy first went into a shelter in southern Michigan when his owner went to prison; he’d spent nearly a year Above: Henry Erber and his senior dog, Quincy, enjoy some rest and relaxation.

Below: Quincy is quick to follow his new parents everywhere they go.

Opposite: Banana Cream Pie shows off her bed and toys at her forever home.

“When a bond is made between an adopter and one of these dogs, it’s so personally rewarding—you know it helped save a life not just in the dog but sometimes even the people.”

–Scott MacKenzie

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FIND A STRAY OR FERAL KITTEN? A GUIDE:

Assess the condition of the kitten.

Is it in danger? Does it look ill? Is it injured or starved? If so, bring it to a vet or shelter immediately.

Determine age.

Google an “age map” to help you determine how old the kitten might be.

If younger than six weeks, trap it, have it spayed or neutered and find it a good home. If you cannot afford to do that yourself, contact a rescue for help and explain the situation.

First, though, look for mama.

If the kitten is younger than six weeks and you’ve seen the mother in the last few hours, leave it alone and monitor from a distance. If mom is not around or doesn’t return, begin orphaned kitten protocol and contact a shelter.

Notify a local TNR (Trap, Neuter and Return) group of the found kitten or colony.

A local rescue can usually assist with identifying a TNR group.

Be persistent and creative.

During “kitten season” (April to October), shelters and rescues are sometimes full. Consider fostering if you have space—or even holding the kitten for a day or two until the shelter can find placement.

Source: The Kitten Factory

34

in cages himself before finding his forever home with the Erbers—as well as an unexpected mission. He keeps his new family in sight at any given time, the Erbers say. He’s a natural therapy dog as well.

“I have PTSD from Vietnam and health problems from Agent Orange,” Henry says. “He can sense when I’m having a problem, and he will not leave me alone. He’s right here tight against my side. When I’m sitting in my chair, he puts his chin on my knee and looks at me and tries to get real close. A couple of times I’ve fallen. He comes out of nowhere and shoves underneath me.

He gets under my knees so I can push my body up from there. He’s a sweetheart of a dog. We dearly love him.”

The TikTok rescue queen In the town of Higgins Lake, just a few blocks from the lake where Anna Dickerson-Homan grew up vacationing, a kitty named Lisa sits on the ultimate cat perch with a view of squirrels out the front door window. But if she senses there’s a kitty in need somewhere in the house—or it’s time to play—she’s in the thick of things.

Lisa is a “foster fail” at The Kitten Factory rescue, but for important reasons. Lisa suffers from Manx syndrome—spina bifida, a missing tail and a deformed spine—and walks on her wrists with paws turned inward. She needs cushioning underneath her to

play without injury and gets unusual medical support like acupuncture for pain relief. She also is both pet and brand ambassador for Dickerson-Homan and her husband Steve, who dubbed their rescue The Kitten Factory because they’d joke about how they were “producing healthy kittens” by taking in broken kittens, fixing them and sending them out like a welloiled machine.

Lisa plays a role as big sister to every new foster kitten who comes into the home—and, at any given time, a half dozen or so are playing around the meticulous house/headquarters or climbing onto a human’s shoulder. And when kitty Lisa is giving new foster kittens a bath and literally tucking them into a box, it makes for a TikTok video that garners tens of thousands of likes and in the process dispels a lot of stigmas.

“By keeping my followers engaged with honest and educational dialogue, I take away what’s scary about caring for a kitty with special needs,” says Dickerson-Homan, “and turn the unknown into empowerment.”

Those who want to give to a cat in need can help in many ways—mone-

tary donations for food and medical care, social media help, answering emails and adopting or fostering a cat or dog through The Kitten Factory or any local rescue. A foster parent might, like Dickerson-Homan does, read chapters of Harry Potter (a kitty favorite, or another of your choice) to get fosters used to different voice intonations or offer up a warm spot until

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“Animals give back so much to us and are important to our mental health. To be able to give back to them and support them in a time of need is immeasurably important.”

–Anna Dickerson-Homan

Anna Dickerson-Homan snuggles “foster fail”turned-matriarch of The Kitten Factory, Lisa.

Opposite: Anna bottle feeds a new kitten.

FOSTER WITHOUT FAIL Foster programs are one tool that local animal rescues use to help animals in need. In some cases, foster homes are needed just to open room in a shelter to save more lives, says Scott MacKenzie, executive director of the Charlevoix Area Humane Society.

In other cases, foster “parents” are sought to temporarily help with, say, a dog who needs regular medication or the tiniest of kittens who need to be bottle fed every few hours.

And you don’t need to have a full-time rescue facility or be a full-time foster volunteer to offer fostering help, says Anna Dickerson-Homan of The Kitten Factory.

“Anyone can do it,” she says. “The thing I get a lot is, ‘You work from home, you don’t have kids.’ But truly anyone can do it. I have a friend with five kids who does. It might just look like opening a spare bathroom for a couple of weeks so a cat doesn’t die on the street. Fostering saves lives. If you can’t foster, adopt. If you can’t adopt, donate. If you can’t donate, support virtually. All is so critical to animal success.”

one can be found at a shelter. The reward is the serotonin boost of things like kitten purrs—and much more.

“The world needs a little kindness, and that goes for humans and animals,” she says. “It’s important to end their suffering, and it’s as simple as that, I guess. Animals give back so much to us and are important to our mental health. To be able to give back to them and support them in a time of need is immeasurably important.”

Kim Schneider is a long-time travel writer specializing in Michigan adventures, food and wine. The Midwest Travel Journalist Association has named her Mark Twain Travel Writer of the Year, and she’s the author of “100 Things to Do in Traverse City Before You Die.” Courtney Kent is one-half of The Compass Points Here, a photography and videography company based in Traverse City. thecompasspointshere.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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16 / THE RENO THAT TOOK A VILLAGE

07 / EDITOR’S NOTE

Architect Dave Whiteford and his wife, interior designer Meg Whiteford, pooled their talents and pulled their family and friends together to remodel their stunning new home in just eight months.

26 / REMODELING THE GARRISON

An extended family performed delicate renosurgery on their 19th-century cottage to bring it into this century while preserving its old soul.

34 / A BIRDHOUSE TRANSFORMED

A young Marquette designer and her contractor/ husband bring their fresh eye for style to this trending city on Lake Superior.

Home Renos for the Soul

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EDITOR’S NOTE

HOME RENOS FOR THE SOUL

I

n a way, home renovations are like New Year’s resolutions: Just as the New Year inspires us to rid ourselves of bad personal habits, a renovation is the opportunity to streamline and organize our homes, getting rid of clutter, inefficiencies and other unwanted living habits. Accordingly, a brilliant home renovation can be as life-changing as say, losing 20 pounds or realizing that we can stick to our Dry January resolution. Bright promises all for a New Year and for many years to come.

In the spirit of the fledgling months of 2022, we offer you our annual Renovation Issue, packed with three inspiring home makeover stories.

We introduce you to architect Dave Whiteford and his wife, interior designer Meg Whiteford. The Whitefords are seasoned pros at designing and outfitting homes that are both stunning and efficient. But when they purchased a 1970s-era home on Old Mission, they were faced with a whole new set of challenges imposed by zoning setbacks that restricted the home to its original footprint. Trust us, you’d never know from this sophisticated, flowing space that the Whitefords’ house once looked like the Brady Bunch lived in it.

The Rule Family Cottage (aka The Garrison), Omena Next, we move on to the beautiful, blossoming city of Marquette on the Lake Superior shore in the Upper Peninsula where a young designer, Allison Harlow, and her contractor husband, Ryan Nie, have teamed up to form Curio Design Studio. When a client charged them with the makeover of his 20-year-old condominium in a style that was Up North but not cliché, the couple tackled the project with gusto and finesse.

Finally, we offer up a completely different kind of home renovation— think of it as more PBS’s “This Old House” than HGTV. The narrative is about how an extended family figured out how to ease their 19th-century Omena cottage into the 21st century. But the heart of the story is how our Northern Michigan family cottages knit generations together in spite of, or in some cases because of, their aging infrastructures. Strengthening family bonds? That’s a resolution we can all live with.

I hope that you curl up on a cold winter day with this issue—and put it down feeling inspired to make your home (and your life) just a bit better.

UpNorth design inspiration, building ideas, & decorating tips straight to your inbox monthly.

Sign up here: MyNorth.com/newsletter

Elizabeth Edwards is senior editor of Northern Home & Cottage.

Lissa@traversemagazine.com

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Northern Mood

The Monochrome Season CURATED BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS

»

FILL YOUR HOME WITH THE QUIET TONES OF DEEP WINTER.

Tall, Dark and Handsome at the Door Kolbe VistaLuxe Series Door in coal black with 1 1/8-inch simulated divided lights and square profile bars. Old Mission Windows, starts at $6,500 oldmissionwindows.com

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1. Set of Stacking Display Tables Grace & Laurel (formerly Crystal Crate & Cargo), Beulah / $85 crystalcratecargo.com 2. Home Sweet Home Rug Grace & Laurel (formerly Crystal Crate & Cargo), Beulah / $39.49 crystalcratecargo.com 3. Weathered Wood-Style Melamine Plates Grace & Laurel (formerly Crystal Crate & Cargo), Beulah salad plate $9 / dinner plate $11.50 crystalcratecargo.com

Opposite photo by Greg MacMaster. All other photos by David Weidner.

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4. Woven Pillow Handmade by the women of Bijapur, India. Betsie Bay Furniture, Frankfort / $262 betsiebayfurniture.com 5. Pet Basket Made from Himalayan and New Zealand wools that are rich in healthy lanolin and naturally attract pets. Fits animals up to 25 pounds.

Sanctuary Handcrafted Goods, Mercato in The Village at Grand Traverse Commons $65 sanctuarytc.com

6. The Dorris Indoor/ Outdoor End Table Betsie Bay Furniture, Frankfort / $396 betsiebayfurniture.com

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collections

STATEMENT GARAGE DOORS

In deep winter, the garage is (arguably) the most important room in your house. Why not give it the style cred it is due?

BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS

CARRIAGE HOUSE STYLE Location Walloon Lake Architect N.J. White Associates white-liebler.com Contractor Scott Kennard, Wentworth Builders wentworthbuilders.com

STYLE STATEMENT The garage doors were chosen to align with the main house front door (also mahogany). The mahogany provides a warmth of detail that differentiates the garage door as an important element, a door, a passageway.

–Scott Kennard

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photo by Flight Path Creative

Specs Glenmore Carriage House in mahogany by Holmes and Holmes

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STATEMENT GARAGE DOORS

VILLAGE GREEN Location Leland Architect J. Visser Design jvisser.com Contractor J. Peterson Homes joelpetersonhomes.com

STYLE STATEMENT Garage doors are often a large part of a home’s curb appeal. We like to help clients select doors that complement the architecture of the home. Additionally, garage doors can take a beating from the weather so we always recommend doors with materials and finishes that hold up to Northern Michigan’s four seasons.

–Joel Peterson

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photo by Dave Speckman

Specs Clopay insulated door with PVC overlay from Overhead Door Company

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STATEMENT GARAGE DOORS

RUSTIC ON THE RIVER Location AuSable River, Grayling Architect Joseph Mosey Architecture josephmoseyarchitecture.com Contractor Render Construction renderconstruction.com

STYLE STATEMENT The door is carefully designed to work with the style of the home. For this AuSable River cottage, it was appropriate to have a traditional door with ‘V’ groove center panels and hardware to reference a carriage housestyle door—as the garage is designed to look like a detached carriage house that was connected to the house with a breezeway. The glass lites in the door were also carefully considered to make sure they referenced the design, detailing and proportions of the main house windows.

–Joseph Mosey

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Specs Custom built by Render Construction

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house and home

THE RENO THAT TOOK A VILLAGE AS THE CLOCK TICKED ON A RENOVATION OF THEIR OWN HOME, FRIENDS AND FAMILY RALLIED TO HELP ARCHITECT DAVE WHITEFORD AND HIS WIFE, INTERIOR DESIGNER MEG WHITEFORD, FINISH THE PROJECT.

BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS PHOTOS BY JACQUELINE SOUTHBY

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I

n mid-october of

2020, when the northern Michigan real estate market was heating up, Dave Whiteford suggested to his wife, Meg, that they put their gorgeous, completely customized lakefront home on Old Mission Peninsula on the market just to see what would happen …

Surprise! It sold in just two days. Great news, yes, but the deal included the fact that they had to be out of their home in a month—and, while they spend their winters in Arizona, the couple would need a permanent Traverse City residence by spring. Although Dave remains lead architect and consultant to the buildand-design company, Whiteford Associates (founded in 1978 as Dave Whiteford Design), he had recently sold the firm and consequently had no spec home or the possibility of one that he and Meg could move into. “In the past, Dave has always had something lined up,” Meg says. “But this time he had nothing.”

Needless to say, the couple started searching homes for sale in the area in earnest. When Dave drove by a small, For Sale by Owner

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home on a lakefront property several miles away from the home they’d just sold, he took note. The price was right, but the homely, ranch/ lower-level walkout built in 1978 was 200 square feet smaller than their home. And because the prospective house was nonconforming, there was no opportunity for adding on. With the clock ticking, the Whitefords did purchase it, but with the knowledge that they’d have to make the original footprint work for their lifestyle—and quickly.

Dave and Meg, literally, rolled up their sleeves and got to work.

But they weren’t alone. A small army of relatives and friends joined them. “Many of the Whiteford family members are in the trades in one form or another, so their skillsets doubled the blessings,” Meg says, adding that their help was especially gratifying given that so many of them were already working long hours to make up for time lost in the pandemic shutdown.

Job #1: Gut the home down to its studs. Gone went the popcorn ceilings, the white ceramic 12-by-12 foyer tiles, the wall between the kitchen and dining/living room, the vinyl tile in the kitchen and

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“MANY OF THE WHITEFORD FAMILY MEMBERS ARE IN THE TRADES IN ONE FORM OR ANOTHER, SO THEIR SKILLSETS DOUBLED THE BLESSINGS.”

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bathrooms, the nasty carpet in the sunroom and the outdated paneling and half-wall in the man-cave that blocked a view of the lake from that room. Basically, everything that held the home captive to the 1970s.

Next, they raised the ceilings, added skylights and switched out the smallish windows for expansive new Kolbe windows that opened up the gorgeous East Grand Traverse Bay view on the home’s lake side. Dave went on to rejigger space to create a truly customized home—stealing 3.5 feet from the garage enlarged the laundry room; moving the stairway almost 4 feet by replacing a useless front hallway added some 40 square feet to the great room. That, in turn, allowed space to move the master bedroom to the lake side of the home and create a luxurious master bath where that bedroom had once been. Barn doors, for the hall linen closet and Meg’s walk-in closet, were also important space savers.

The reno was far from complete when the Whitefords headed to Arizona that winter, leaving Dave’s nephew, Bill Whiteford of A1pha Construction and Management, in charge. When they returned in the spring, it

was to a completed home and a reveal that felt like it was right out of HGTV. The interior decisions that Meg had made were executed perfectly—the white oak floors, the soft, sophisticated wallpaper choices, the lovely, efficient kitchen with its porcelain counters and pewter-stained oak cabinetry. And, as in every house that the couple has lived in together, the dining room table, designed by

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renowned midcentury architect Alden Dow, who was a mentor to David, graced the center of the great room.

“We could not have done what we did without the tireless and selfless hours put in not only by our family members— sisters, brothers, cousins, nephews—but also by countless dear friends,” Meg says. “It truly was humbling and greatly appreciated how they all rallied around us, especially at a time when everyone is overworked and behind.”

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CONNECT TO THE OUTDOORS AND EACH OTHER When you bring natural light and fresh air deeper into your home, it can change how you think, feel, and work in your space. At Marvin, windows and doors are designed to open new possibilities, helping you feel connected to the outdoors while you connect with each other.

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FREE digital version available here: link.MyNorth.com/nhc0222 Petoskey and Traverse City MI www.tmmill.com

2021 Marvin Lumber and Cedar Co., LLC. Architecture by Peterssen/Keller Architecture, Minneapolis, MN.

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New Century Modern.

Our mission is to help you “feel @ home”!

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More than 25 years of experience in building distinctive homes while exceeding the expectations of discriminating clients. jim@cooleycontracting.com NHC

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house and home

REMODELING THE GARRISON

A MUCH-LOVED FAMILY COTTAGE, ONCE THE HOME OF A CIVIL WAR HERO, GETS A THOUGHTFUL RENOVATION THAT REVEALS LAYERS OF THE HOME’S HISTORY.

BY LUCAS ROBINSON / PHOTOS BY ALLISON JARRELL

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I

t’s the rule cottage,” mark would

say, “yet, nothing is straight.” And very little was. One-hundred-twenty-some years of standing on Grand Traverse Bay, in the Leelanau Peninsula town of Omena, does tend to wear on a place; and 70-plus years of trampling by the Rule family hasn’t helped. Mark is Mark Voight, of Voight Builders in Northport, who took on the restoration of our family’s Victorian cottage, The Garrison, a name given to it by the Civil War cavalry hero who built it.

My grandparents, Colter and Marguerite Rule, purchased the cottage in 1947. Voight’s renovations began after a Rule family reunion a few years ago, when it was decided the cottage’s condition had gone beyond “tatty charm.” We’ve been having family reunions every third year at the cottage since 1979, beginning a few years after my grandmother passed away. All her grandchildren have stories of the place from when they were kids, so coming back rekindles many memories. Stories of adventures and misadventures on long-ago summer days are retold around beach fires at every gathering. These recounted memories loom large in the imagination of the younger generations as they come to know their parents, uncles, aunts and cousins in a new light. The trips to the dunes, to the Grand Traverse Lighthouse, out to Peterson Park and over to Fishtown still get made, and young kids are still learning to sail, paddle, fish and

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play favorite card games around the old table on the front porch. They’re developing their own stories, too. In a way, little has changed, but of course, much has. My mother recalls life at the cottage when she was a girl—pumping water at the kitchen sink, the horse-drawn ice wagon and hearing Bohemian spoken around Leelanau County by immigrants from what is now the Czech Republic.

Needless to say, our family members agreed that the cottage renovation would mean striking a balance between preserving history on one hand, and family expectations on the other. I was aware of how out-of-square the cottage was but assumed settling and age were to blame. Voight clued me in; apparently no one from the era in which it was built bothered making structures square in the first place.

As work progressed, the cottage began to reveal itself. A lumber mark under the cottage’s attic stair bears the name General B.H. Grierson and the date 1896. This would seem to set construction to that year, but there’s reason to believe the cottage is older still. During the demo phase, a small opening in the living room’s framing was revealed next to the existing stairway. It suggests General Grierson was adding to an existing structure. A succession of porches, each enclosed, grew to become today’s kitchen—as evidenced by the three distinct wood floors.

If General Grierson didn’t build it in 1896, we know from the significant work he did to the place, he rebuilt it. What may have started out as a simple frame dwelling set on tree stumps and beach-rock piers is now a six-bedroom vernacular Victorian. In the general’s day, it even had a two-story observation tower replete with a bell for greeting passing ships.

Some additions to the cottage over the decades were better than others. The worst insult the cottage suffered were the bathrooms tacked on in the 1930s, one on top of the other with the plumbing hanging on the exterior of the home. Also, the living room ceiling was lowered a foot and a half when drywall was installed in the 1950s.

My grandparents put the drywall up to brighten the interior and, I suspect, to dampen the sound of so many feet under one roof. They had eight children and eventually 30 grandchildren.

The cottage’s kitchen is in the back of the house on the road side. We’ve been traipsing through the kitchen since time immemorial, and the day had come to create a true front entrance. My first thought was that the new entry could go in the living room, nearer where cars park and where we were removing the ramshackle bathrooms. Two birds, one stone, I figured. However, when Mark discovered how rotted the floor framing in another area of the first

floor had become, I knew the new entry would have to be rolled into rebuilding that area. The budget demanded it.

Repairing damage led to another design response: the creation of a belt course on the exterior. Victorian houses often have a band of distinct siding between the first- and second-floor windows. Many Victorian and Queen Anne houses in Traverse City have them—they function to unify the asymmetrical composition common to the style. Still, adding one to our cottage was a big departure from its historic roots. I struggled with creating the belt course

WHAT MAY HAVE STARTED OUT AS A SIMPLE FRAME DWELLING SET ON TREE STUMPS AND BEACH-ROCK PIERS IS NOW A SIX-BEDROOM VERNACULAR VICTORIAN. even as it provided a period-appropriate solution to covering repair work. I wasn’t alone in my apprehension: Mark noted that a belt course wants to be straight, and our windowsills and window heads didn’t line up the way they should. We figured out the best alignments, and ways to hide the worst. Looking back, it seems obvious, while our belt course is simple compared to ones on high-style Victorians, it does unify the cottage’s rambling exterior. Happily, it also drove the decision to paint in more than a body and trim color. With six exterior colors now, our cottage is a genuine painted lady.

The best of the renovations occurred in the living room— the room that had revealed the mysterious stair opening and that had once had its ceiling lowered. New joists stiffened a bouncy floor: Installing these was a trick because, again, nothing was straight. The living room ceiling, it turned out, NHC

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was seven inches out of level—a fact that, since the false drywall ceiling was level, we had never known. I drew interior elevations showing how new window and door heads would align with existing ones, creating a continuous trim and color band around the room. It’s called a frieze, and it gives the room a strong, level reference. A simple crown mold matching the joists separates this frieze from the ceiling. Light fixtures are located there, and I’d like to stencil a quote from General Grierson’s diaries in gilt letters around the room.

Upstairs, rooms were rearranged to make way for a new bath within the envelope of the house and with the plumbing on the inside. Original beadboard finishes were uncovered and the old-fashioned enamel sinks restored.

Each bedroom has its own sink, which takes pressure off the bathrooms when the cottage is full.

As the once-grand cottages of yesteryear give way to today’s perhaps overly grand ones, I’m reminded how important it is for a building to be in harmony with its setting. For me, the old frame cottages speak volumes about the outlook and character of our forebears. That seems reason enough to have a go at saving them. Perhaps our family struck a fair balance between our modern needs and the interests of preservation. I hope my grandparents would agree, and I imagine General Grierson would. I like to think the general’s spirit still inhabits the place: He did die here in the summer of 1911. Late one night, my sister-inlaw called me at home from the cottage. She was there by herself for the first time and wasn’t used to the quiet. I told her to sit back and relax—the old general would wind his way down from the observation tower anytime. Just listen for the creaking stairs.

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house and home

A BIRDHOUSE TRANSFORMED

A YOUNG BUILD-AND-DESIGN TEAM TURN THEIR TALENTS TO A DOWNTOWN MARQUETTE CONDO.

BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS / PHOTOS BY SABRINA LEIGH

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arquette’s harbor ridge townhouses

are a row of three-story, narrow condominiums perched above the city’s busy Lower Harbor on Lake Superior. Built in the late 1990s, the homes, known locally as the Birdhouses, have presided over Marquette’s metamorphosis as an industrial port to a hip and vibrant city. From the Birdhouses, it’s just a short walk to the popular Ore Dock Brewing Company; to Lower Harbor Park, a site that buzzes with waterside events; and to the wealth of pubs, eateries and boutiques that fill the historic downtown.

Given their setting, the condos are the perfect stage to showcase the fresh style of interior designer Allison Harlow, who owns Curio Design Studio with her husband, contractor Ryan Nie. Nie, from Canada, is new to Marquette. But for Harlow, the move to Marquette was a re-root: she grew up in the city (founded by her great-great-great grandfather, Amos Harlow, in 1849), but left at age 17 to travel the world.

One of the couple’s first projects after establishing Curio Design Studio in Marquette was a powder room makeover in one of the

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Birdhouse condos. “The condo had a super mid-century feel with a lot of black and white,” Harlow says. In the powder room redo, Harlow brought in the black and white theme using 1960s-style geometric wallpaper.

Not long after they had finished the powder room, the couple received an inquiry about a total condo renovation at the same address.

As it turned out, the condo had recently sold and the new owner wanted a completely new look. “He wanted it to have a masculine take on the lake cottage aesthetic,” Harlow says. That said, he thought the powder room they’d just finished for their former client could fit perfectly in the redo.

Allison worked with her new client to develop his concept using blue tones to reflect the moods of Lake Superior, and an abundance

ALLISON WORKED WITH HER NEW CLIENT TO DEVELOP HIS CONCEPT USING BLUE TONES TO REFLECT THE MOODS OF LAKE SUPERIOR.

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HARLOW AND THE HOMEOWNER THREW CAUTION TO THE WIND WITH A RICH, TROPICAL-STYLE WALLPAPER EMBOSSED WITH BRIGHT POMEGRANATE TREES.

of texture, warm wood, black metal and leather. The finished project manifests the theme with pale bluish-gray kitchen cabinetry that evokes the days when the lake pouts and a marine blue island when it shines. The island’s walnut countertop, floating shelves made from walnut, and walnut tops on the stairwell’s half-walls, offer organic masculine accents. Another special touch: Harlow and Nie designed the walnut shelf over the sink with slats for use as a drying rack for bar glassware and other fragile pieces. Black metal pendants and the staircase banister give nods to the black geometric wallpaper in the original redo of the powder room.

A cinnamon-colored leather sofa and a rich blue-gray statement wall (Sherwin-Williams Foggy Gray) add drama to the living area. Nie customized a new entertainment center by replacing the cabinet faces with a brushed nickel mesh inlay. The wall behind the entertainment center is papered in a Phillip Jeffries mural called “Waves Fade”—a literal nod to the Lake Superior

surf outside the windows. Wide-plank white oak flooring with a custom weathered oak/country stain pulls it all together. “The flooring guy almost murdered me,” Harlow laughs, recounting how many times she requested he mix the stain until she and the homeowner felt it was just right.

Harlow and Nie customized the boring builder-grade shower by ripping out the fiberglass surround, raising the shower ceiling and building an arched doorway for it. Dark indigo subway tiles are a handsome finish. “When you walk into the bathroom, the shower pops out and creates this architectural shape,” Harlow says.

In the condo’s second powder room, Harlow and the homeowner threw caution to the wind with a rich, tropicalstyle wallpaper embossed with bright pomegranate trees. Look carefully and you’ll find monkeys in the trees. It is a lively, distinctive touch that carries you away on this Lake Superior sea to ports unknown—come to think of it, a bit like Harlow’s own journey from Marquette, to her world travels and back home again.

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1/4/22 5:58 PM

T he Cu l i nary North local cuisine . drinks . restaurant guide

D I N I N G OUT

FAMILY RECIPES

by CARLY SIMPSON

Ed Carrella grew up working at his parents’ pizzerias on Chicago’s South Side.

Now, he’s sharing that experience, and authentic Italian food, with Northern Michigan.

photos by Dave Weidner

E

d carrella always keeps his mom’s cookbook next to him in the kitchen, along with his dad’s royal blue ledger of recipes from his restaurant days in Chicago. Tina and Angelo Carrella immigrated to the windy city in the late ’60s, leaving their home in Naples, Italy. They dreamed of owning their own business and opened a Neapolitan pizzeria, adding pasta to the menu after Angelo brought home 25 pounds of ricotta and Tina spent hours and hours developing her ravioli recipe (still found in that little blue ledger).

Ravioli is just one of a hearty handful of homemade pastas on Ed’s menu today at Vita Bella Italian Kitchen & Market in Frankfort, along with Mama’s Meatballs and, of course, wood-fired pizzas. The restaurant opened in March 2021, almost exactly one year after the pandemic cost Ed his job at a Chicago restaurant. He and his wife, Megan, decided then that it was time to make their vacation home in Frankfort their permanent home, pushing fast-forward on a longtime dream of their own. Megan had been visiting the Crystal Lake area since birth, sharing her love for it with Ed and their two children over the years.

Ed’s decades of experience opening Ed Carrella and managing a number of restaurants

in New York, Chicago, Las Vegas, Milwaukee and Houston, along with his family’s recipes, served as the inspiration for Vita Bella. The cavatelli is Ed's favorite, served with their Bolognese sauce—four different types of meat stewed for three hours with tomatoes, garlic and then a touch of cream to smooth it out. And don’t overlook the grab-and-go market. There’s a little bit of everything—Iron Fish maple syrup, Fustini’s oils, his mom’s homemade bread, Italian amaretti cookies, sandwiches, salads and entrées.

This winter, Ed’s got a few things cooking up for the community: a Chicago-style stuffed pizza special that’s available on Fridays and Saturdays, cooking classes with Mama Tina and Lounge Nights with live music. Follow Vita Bella on Facebook for upcoming events.

320 Main St., Frankfort, vitabellakitchen.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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1/4/22 5:53 PM

T he Cu l i nary North Grab & Go SCONES AT SUNRISE

GRAB:

Good Harbor Coffee & Bakery Traverse City’s longest-running coffee shop, Good Harbor, has been welcoming early risers and downtown commuters for 30 years. The in-house bakery whisks up fresh scones, muffins, cookies and more each day—the team arriving at 2:30 a.m. to have everything ready for the first customers at 7. We especially love Good Harbor’s scones. Apricot almond, walnut coffee cake and blackberry vanilla are just some of the constants on the menu, with seasonal specials such as apple cider and pumpkin to surprise us. The most popular scone, however, is lemon blueberry, a staple on the menu for more than 25 years. What to sip with it? “I think because of their sweetness, the lemon blueberry scone pairs best with a black coffee,” says Owner/Manager Alice Tighe. “My personal favorite is Ethiopian.” The organic coffees are sourced from Michigan roaster Coffee Express in Plymouth.

111 W. Front St., Traverse City facebook.com/goodharborcoffeetc

by CARLY SIMPSON

A morning treat and the best place to take it.

GO:

photo by Dave Weidner

West Grand Traverse Bay

38

Goodies in hand, head toward the water to pair them with a snowy sunrise. (Plan to arrive by 8 a.m. to catch the day’s first rays.) There are a few places where you can settle to see the morning glory. Within walking distance: Clinch Park. A five-minute stroll down Union Street (crossing Grandview Parkway at the stoplight) takes you to this classic TC destination offering snow-capped views of Leelanau and Old Mission peninsulas. A seven-minute drive (from Union Street, hang a left on Grandview Parkway), lands you at Greilickville Harbor Park.

This bayside spot with a sandy beach area and playground (both fun come summer) has an east-facing vantage point to catch the sun coming up. Choose a bench and enjoy the show.

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1/4/22 5:53 PM

The Culinary North

GUIDE R E S T A U R A N T

Old Mission Tavern Prime rib, fresh fish, pastas and ethnic

specials—this lushly landscaped spot hosts two fine-art galleries: Bella Galleria and sculptor/owner Verna Bartnick’s studio.

17015 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.7280 LD • BAR • $$

Peninsula Grill Eat a wild mushroom pizza, shrimp and grits

or pulled pork sandwiches at this peninsula outpost with a cozy fireplace. 14091 CENTER RD. TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.7200 LD

• BAR • $$

| WATER VIEW | RED HOT BEST WINNER 2021 BLD | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER BAR | ALCOHOL SERVED $ | ENTRÉES UNDER $10 $$ | $10-20 $$$ | ABOVE $20

DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY Amical Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace and

street patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5 p.m. 229 E. FRONT ST.,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.8888 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

NEW Artisan Waterfront Restaurant & Tavern A Great

Lakes-inspired menu with both fine dining and a relaxed tavern area inside Delamar hotel. 615 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.3700 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

NEW Bahia Spanish-Latin fusion restaurant focused on small

RESTAURANT GUIDE WINTER/SPRING SCHEDULE Save each issue for a look at the North’s dining scene, and find the full guide in print June–September. Or, visit MyNorth.com > Directories > Restaurants.

FEBRUARY: Grand Traverse Area MARCH: Leelanau County APRIL: Petoskey & Mackinac Straits + Charlevoix & Chain of Lakes MAY: Benzie County, Manistee & Cadillac

plates. 127 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY D • BAR • $$

NEW Barrio Tacos Build your own tacos and definitely order a margarita. 305 W. FRONT ST., SUITE A, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1855 LD • BAR • $$

Bay Bread Company More than 40 artisanal breads, plus sandwiches, soups and salads. 601 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231. 922.8022 BLD • $

Benedict Breakfast, lunch and brunch favorites with specialty

Benedicts, sandwiches, quiche, pastries and more. 237 LAKE AVE.,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1000 BL • $-$$

NEW The Big Salad Gourmet salads, sandwiches, bowls, soups

and smoothies. 332 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1287 LD

• $$

GRAND TRAVERSE AREA INTERLOCHEN Bradley’s Pub & Grille Burgers, ribs, bluegill, brisket, trout

and so much more. 10586 US-31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.275.6401 LD

• BAR • $-$$

Bud’s A reprise of the original Bud’s gas/bait shop is a cool

hangout for locals, vacationers and Interlochen students. Try the cappuccinos and cinnamon French toast, paninis and flatbread pizzas. 3061 M-137, INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.9090 BLD • $ Cicero's Pizza Family owned pizza parlor since 1985. 2408 M-137, INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.6324 D • $-$$

Blue Tractor Barbecue An Old Town favorite. Be sure to check

Brasserie Amie A Parisian-style bistro serving up brunch

and dinner. 160 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.753.3161 LD

• BAR • $$

Brew Hip coffeehouse and café with local microbrews, wines

and cocktails. 108 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.2739 B

• BAR • $

Bubba’s Happening Front Street spot with battered mahi and chips, burgers, salads and tacos. 428 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.995.0570 BLD • BAR • $

Charles & Reid Detroit Pizza Excellent Detroit-style pizza

with a weekly special. Other menu offerings include salads and sandwiches. 113 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.3497 D • $$

The Chef’s In Soups, salad bar and freshly made hot and cold

sandwiches. 519 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.1144 L • $

The Cooks’ House A sweet little dollhouse of a spot, home to

sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility. 115 WELLINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8700 LD • $$-$$$

Cousin Jenny’s Cornish Pasties Homemade pasties. 129 S.

UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7821 BLD • $

Crepes & Co. Sweet and savory crepes and espresso bever-

ages inside State Street Market. 329 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.950.9221 BL • $

Dillinger’s Pub & Bootleggers Bar Lively neighborhood spot featuring traditional pub fare and a rotating draft list. 119 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.2276 LD • BAR • $

The Dish Cafe Eclectic menu with creative salads, quesadillas, enormous wraps, sandwiches and smoothies. 108 S. UNION, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.2233 LD • BAR • $

Firefly A dazzling small-plate menu, sushi, steaks and burgs

at a sophisticated hotspot on the river. 310 S. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310 LD • $-$$

out The Shed next door (seasonal) where you'll find a beer garden and a food truck. 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922.9515

The Flying Noodle House-made pastas and sauces, salads

Brady’s Bar Neighborhood tavern known for its happy hour, wings and pizza offerings. 401 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Folgarelli’s Market & Wine Shop Gourmet groceries, wines imported and local, vast selection of cured meats and cheese, fantastic sandwich menu. 424 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

LD • BAR • $-$$

231.946.8153 LD • BAR • $-$$

The Good Bowl

and personal deep-dish pizzas. 136 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.4725 LD • BAR • $$

231.941.7651 LD • BAR • $-$$

Frenchies Famous Three tables and carryout, offers superb hot

sandwiches and espresso drinks. 619 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1228 LD • $

The Good Bowl Fast-casual Vietnamese classics like phò Saigon and Bánh mì. 328 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Dilbert’s Soups, sandwiches, omelettes and other home cooking served in a homey atmosphere. 11303 US-31, INTERLOCHEN,

231.252.2662 LD • BAR $-$$

Hofbrau Steak House & American Grille Lively cedar-

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies,

231.275.3005 BLD • $

The Green House Café Longtime fave for sandwiches, soups

and salads. 115 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.7687 BL • $

paneled former general store serves locals and Interlochen performers. Steak, seafood, bluegill and barbecue. Sun. brunch.

coffee, baked goods, pot pies, chicken salad and quiche. 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437 BL • $

Mimi's Taqueria Tacos, burritos, chimichangas, tostadas and

NEW Gemini Sandwich Co. Grilled panini sandwiches, wraps, salads, ice cream and smoothies. 346 E. FRONT ST., SUITE A, TRA-

2784 M-137, INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.6979 LD • BAR • $-$$

more. 2070 J MADDY PARKWAY SB, INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.3337 LD • $

Oaky’s Tavern Burgers, pizza, pasta, sandwiches. Friday

night specials. 9205 US-31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.6244 LD • BAR • $-$$

VERSE CITY, 231.421.1254 LD • $

Hexenbelle Rotating global comfort foods like shakshuka and Palestinian rice bowls plus coffee, espresso and baked goods.

144 HALL ST., SUITE 107, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.486.6128 BL • $

photo by Dave Weidner

OLD MISSION PENINSULA Bad Dog Deli Stock up on provisions or grab a thick sandwich with Boar’s Head meats, cheeses, homemade pizza, beer and wine to go. 14091 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.9364 L • $$ Boathouse Restaurant Casually elegant spot with steaks,

seafood and a large local wine selection. Sunday brunch. 14039

PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4030 D • BAR • $$-$$$

Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan piz-

FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS!

MyNorth.com > Food & Drink > Restaurants

zas along with fresh ales crafted on site. 13512 PENINSULA DR.,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333 LD • BAR • $$

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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1/4/22 5:53 PM

The Culinary North J&S Hamburg Downtown A family-friendly, retro diner that’s

been flipping fresh burgers since 1938. 302 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.5500 BLD • $-$$

Kilkenny’s Irish Public House Irish pub favorites including

corned beef Reubens and Gaelic egg rolls along with craft brews.

400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7527 D • BAR $-$$

NEW Lil Bo Neighborhood family tavern with nostalgic interior,

homestyle comfort food and live music. 540 W. FRONT ST., TRA-

VERSE CITY, 231.421.3100 LD • BAR • $$

Little Fleet An open-air bar with seasonal food trucks. 448 E.

FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1116 LD • BAR • $

Mackinaw Brewing Co. Nautical-themed brewpub offering

house-smoked meats, killer French onion soup, burgers, fish and ribs. 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 933.1100 LD • BAR • $$

Mama Lu’s Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at a fun taqueria and bar. 149 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2793 LD • BAR • $$

Mary’s Kitchen Port Delicious carryout sandwiches, wraps

and salads. 539 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.0525 L • $

Morsels Espresso & Eatables Sip coffee and munch on bitesized bakery goods while looking out over West Bay. 321 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1353 B • $

Milk & Honey Salads, sandwiches and house-made ice cream

all with local ingredients that are GMO-free and organic when possible. 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1036 LD • BAR • $

Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. 300 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.946.5093 BLD • BAR • $$

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steakhouse serves tender, wellaged charbroiled Black Angus steaks, seafood, ribs, soup, sandwiches. 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9832 LD • BAR • $$

North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches, craft beer and a jam-packed bar scene. 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7325 LD • BAR • $$

The Omelette Shoppe Vast array of omelettes, homemade photo by Dave Weidner

breads and pastries, soup and sandwiches. 124 CASS ST.,

231.946.0912, AND 1209 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0590 BLD • $

Paesano’s Charming spot with cozy booths that puts pizza pie on a pedestal. 447 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.5740 LD • $

Pangea’s Pizza Craft pies, creative toppings and a rooftop deck and bar. 135 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.9800 LD • BAR $-$$

Park Street Cafe Fresh-made sandwiches (breakfast waffle

sandwich!) and other grab-and-go foods. Indoor and outdoor seating. 113 S. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1747 BL • $ The Parlor A craft cocktail bar reminiscent of the Prohibition era with gastro-pub style food. 205 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.753.3131 D • BAR • $$

Petoskey Pretzel Co. Sweet and savory pretzels to-go with

more than a dozen dipping sauces to choose from. 102 S. UNION

ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.2414 L • $

Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and

salads, including vegetarian specialties and award-winning desserts. 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7632 LD • BAR

• $-$$

Rare Bird Brewpub The likes of pork belly sliders, oysters

on the half shell and great burgers served up alongside great beer. 229 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2053 LD • BAR • $$

Morsels Espresso & Eatables Seven Monks Taproom Pair any of 46 beers on tap (including European Trappist ales) with your burger, thin crust pizza, salad or lively sides like sweet potato frites and Scotch egg.

128 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.8410 LD • BAR • $-$$

restaurant inside Hotel Indigo. 263 W. GRANDVIEW PKWY., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0500 BLD • BAR • $-$$$

Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired

Water's Edge Sweet Tooth A charming bakery. All candies and baked goods made from scratch. Custom orders welcome.

201 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.633.7800 LD • $-$$

toppings and sides. 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912 D • BAR • $$$

Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

on-site Archie’s Food Truck. 221 GARLAND ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.421.8977 LD • BAR • $

trees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. 300 E.

FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2500 LD • BAR • $-$$

The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients with extensive outdoor seating and a casual atmosphere. 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.0900 BLD • BAR

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips Ultra-fresh Great Lakes fish

seafood, burgers, steaks, pasta and a 600-gallon fish tank. Live music on the patio. 221 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.4157

40

405 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.668.9603 BL • $-$$$

The Workshop Brewing Company Craft brewery with

Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, salads, inventive en-

• $-$$$

fry. 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8700 LD • $

231.946.8932 LD • BAR • $-$$

Warehouse Kitchen & Cork Seasonally inspired farm-to-fork

Sparks BBQ Smoking up the real thing—pulled pork and chicken, brisket, ribs and jerky. Don’t miss the BBQ Sundae.

Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh, sleek surroundings and high-quality Asian fusion cuisine. 237 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.944.1733 D • BAR • $-$$$

U & I Lounge Burgers, pizza and a variety of Greek favorites; a great gathering place for friends. 214 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Thirsty Fish Sports Grille Family-friendly sports bar with

FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS!

MyNorth.com > Food & Drink > Restaurants

LD • BAR • $-$$

T R AV E R S E / F E B R UA RY 2 0 2 2

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T he Cu l i nary North On the Table DINING IN

DUCK, DUCK, CHERRY

by STACEY BRUGEMAN

L

ike many in this region, we live adjacent to a cherry farm. Every July, our neighbor invites us to pick cherries just as soon as he is done shaking the trees. At his encouragement, my kids grab the biggest bucket they can find. My stipulation? They can only pick as many as they are willing to help pit—a process that can drag on for a few days. Anything we can’t use fresh goes into the freezer, offering a welcome taste of summer all winter long.

While our frozen stash typically winds up in after-school smoothies, one particularly wintery thing I like to cook is this rich, complex duck and cherry ragù. Duck and cherries are a time-honored food pairing. For this recipe, I marry the French technique of duck confit with my Italian great-grandmother’s dark, meaty spaghetti sauce. Don’t have a stash of cherries in your freezer? The folks at Michigan Farm to Freezer (mifarmtofreezer.com) did all that pitting for you.

While brining duck legs and rendering their fat isn’t hard, it does take time. But what better way to spend a few winter days than tending a long, slow simmer? Hot tip: Valentine’s Day is on a Monday this year. Grab some duck legs on your way home from work on Friday and I promise your sweetheart will be impressed all weekend long.

Stacey Brugeman is a Leelanau County-based food and beverage writer and editor. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater and Denver’s 5280, where she served as Restaurant Critic. Follow her on Instagram @staceybrugeman.

0222_TVM_culinary north.indd 41

^

Duck and Cherry Ragù

ing away from the leg bone and the skin is crispy—about 2 ½ hours.

Makes 5 cups

3. Set the duck on a plate to rest.

Pour the duck fat into a measuring cup, putting ½ cup of fat back into the Dutch oven and reserving additional fat for another use.

Place the Dutch oven on the stove over medium heat, add the tomato paste to the duck fat and cook for 10 minutes, stirring from time to time. Add the onion and cook until translucent—about 5 minutes. Mince the reserved garlic and add it to the pot. Stir in the cherries and the can of tomatoes with their juices, reduce the heat to low and partially cover.

2 skin-on duck leg quarters, about 1½ pounds, thawed ¼ cup coarse salt freshly ground black pepper 3 garlic cloves, smashed 4 sprigs fresh thyme 4 sprigs fresh oregano 2 6-ounce cans tomato paste 1 yellow onion, chopped 2 cups frozen cherries, sliced 1 28-ounce can whole, peeled tomatoes Pappardelle noodles Fresh basil Parmigiano Reggiano cheese 1. Working over a storage container just large enough to hold both duck legs, massage salt into the drumstick and then roll the flap of fat around the leg to hold the interior salt in place before salting the outer skin as well. Snugly place the salted legs into the container and top with a few grindings of black pepper, garlic, thyme and oregano.

Cover and refrigerate overnight.

4. Using your fingers, remove the duck meat from the bone. Discard the skin and smaller bones but reserve the 2 large leg bones. Pull the duck meat into bite-size pieces, producing about 2 cups of meat. Place the meat and the 2 large bones into the Dutch oven and stir to combine, breaking apart the tomatoes with the side of a wooden spoon. Pull the reserved herb leaves from their stems and add the leaves to the pot. Cover and simmer for at least 1 hour, stirring occasionally.

5. Once the ragù is dark in color and the flavors have melded into a rich, complex sauce, remove from the heat and discard the bones. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste, remembering the salty duck brine that is already in the pot. While the sauce rests, cook the pappardelle according to the package, toss the drained noodles in the ragù and serve topped with torn basil and grated Parmesan. –S.B.

photo by Dave Weidner / styling by Sarah Peschel

Duck and cherries are the perfect pairing this Valentine's Day.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

41

2. In the morning, brush the salt off the duck with a paper towel, reserving the garlic and herbs. Set the leg quarters, skin side down, into the bottom of a Dutch oven and cook on the stove over medium-low heat until enough fat is rendered to begin pooling in the bottom of the pan—about 7 minutes.

Without preheating it, turn the oven on to 250 degrees and transfer the pot, uncovered, to the oven.

Cook the duck until the meat is pull-

1/4/22 5:53 PM

The Culinary North NEW Zest Plant-Based Kitchen A to-go café offering 100% vegan food items, including acai and whole-grain bowls, gourmet toasts, breakfast burritos, salads, curries and more. 439 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.3141 BL • $

Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood, prime rib and more. 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG, 231.534.8700 D • BAR

Dancing Donkey Burgers Retro-style burgers, French fries

Thai Café Eat in or take out authentic Thai cuisine in a café

VERSE CITY, 231.947.6721 LD • $

• $-$$$

atmosphere. 1219 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5166 LD TRAVERSE CITY–EAST

• $-$$

Bubbie’s Bagels Bagel shop using old-school techniques. Wide variety of homemade shmears and bagel sandwiches. 1215 E.

TRAVERSE CITY–WEST

Cottage Café Comfort food, coffee and tea press pots, friendly

Apache Trout Grill Rough-hewn eatery affords a great bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad. 13671 S. WEST BAY

FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.3587 BL • $

service, reasonable prices and famous for all-you-can-eat freshwater perch. 472 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9261 BLD

• $-$$

Cuppa Joe Eastside A locally owned, community-oriented cof-

fee shop focusing primarily on curbside and to-go orders. 1990

US-31, N. STE. F, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.3247 BL • $

Don’s Drive-In A ’50s-style diner and drive-in with booths,

burgers, fries, shakes, nostalgic jukebox. 2030 US-31 N., TRAVERSE

CITY, 231.938.1860 LD • $

Harrington’s By the Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. 13890 S. WEST BAY SHORE

The Kitchen Salads, wraps, tacos. All to go. 1249 WOODMERE

Jacob's Farm Jacob’s Farm features not only their well-loved

La Señorita Bustling Mexican cantina with fajitas, jumbo

DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393 BLD • BAR • $-$$$

summer and fall activities, but also a year-round food and bar menu. 7100 E. TRAVERSE HWY., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.632.6293 LD •

BAR • $

and lunch all day. 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.4648 BL • $$

Slabtown Burgers Some of the best darn burgers and fries in Traverse City at affordable prices. 826 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1760 LD • $

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons. Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. 717 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE

elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. 12719 SOUTH WEST

BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2922 LD • BAR • $$

West Side Beverage Offers many varieties of craft beers,

sandwiches, local fountain sodas, coffee, local wines and now a new deli and pizza counter. 912 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9312 LD • $

TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH Agave Mexican Grill Mexican cuisine, daily specials and a

full bar. 851 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4408 LD • BAR

Randy’s Diner Soups, salads, sandwiches, all-you-can-eat cod.

Bergstrom's Burgers Made-from-scratch burgers and sides, rotating specials each week. 905 S. US-31, TRAVERSE CITY,

Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. 1544 US-31, TRAVERSE CITY,

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.3991 D • BAR • $$

Reflect Bistro at Cambria Suites Breakfast, dinner and

Chicago-style deep dish pizza, garlic knots, seasonal soups, and Caesar, Greek and Antipasto salads. 2036 SOUTH AIRPORT RD. W.,

Smoke and Porter Public House American smokehouse

Common Good Bakery Fabulous pastries, bread, croissants,

happy hour. 255 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.778.9000 BD • BAR • $-$$$ photo by Dave Weidner

West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and more

• $-$$

231.938.2773 LD • BAR • $-$$

where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits.

Serving microbrews, wine and liquor. 1752 US-31, TRAVERSE CITY,

231.642.5020 LD • BAR • $-$$$

The Soup Cup Homemade soups, grilled cheese, Belgian fries.

718 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.7687 L • $

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and sammies, ribs and whitefish at this year-round establishment at the Crown Golf Club. 2430 W. CROWN DR., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.932.2166 LD • BAR • $-$$

Oakwood Proper Burgers High-quality, locally-sourced, sustainable ingredients, from the MOO-ville ice cream to the burger and the bun. 1108 E. 8TH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.253.1513 LD • $$ Oryana 10th Street Café Locally sourced organic sandwiches,

smoothies, coffee, tea and baked goods. 260 E. TENTH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.0191 BLD • $-$$

Raduno Neighborhood deli featuring homemade pasta, sau-

sages, charcuterie and salads. 545 E. EIGHTH ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Rounds Restaurant Old-fashioned diner dishing out hearty,

Stone Hound Brewing. 3593 BUNKER HILL RD., WILLIAMSBURG,

1120 CARVER ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0789 BLD • $

Mulligan’s Pub and Grill Stuffed burgers, extravagant salads

Sugar 2 Salt This brunch spot (known as S2S) shakes up

• $$-$$$

231.421.5077 LD • $

BAR • $

E. 16TH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1239 BAR • $

cent. 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.8989 LD • BAR

Rad.ish Street Food Plant-based, Cali-style street food inside

margaritas. 2455 N. US-31 S., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.4545 LD •

Spanglish Authentic Mexican fare with occasional American accents. 1333 YELLOW DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1453 BLD • $

Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian ac-

4341 M-72 E., WILLIAMSBURG, 231.421.8800 D • BAR • $$

AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.8646 BL & EARLY D • $

231.421.1218 LD • $-$$

231.492.4616 B • $-$$

McGee’s 72 Burgers, fries, pizza and sophisticated bar food.

cuisine. 1425 S. AIRPORT RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.1388 LD • $

CITY, 231.947.9213 LD • BAR • $-$$

the same ol' same ol' with dishes like duck (yes, for breakfast). Gorgeous pastries. 1371 GRAY DR., STE. 300, TRAVERSE CITY,

100 GRAND TRAVERSE BLVD., ACME, 231.534.6000

3200 W. SOUTH AIRPORT RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 929.346.2210 LD • $

Hunan Authentic Chinese eatery that also offers Japanese

Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare: breakfast

orama of East Bay and regional fine dining. Music on weekends.

D • BAR • $$-$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$

Food Arabia In the Food Court at Grand Traverse Mall, Middle Eastern fare featuring shawarma, hummus, falafel and more.

SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079 LD • BAR • $$

GEVIEW DR., STE. 100, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960 LD • BAR • $$

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor pan-

The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted wood-fired flatbreads and flavorful house brews revitalize the Depot. 642

RAILROAD PL., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168 LD • BAR • $-$$

PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. 700 COTTA-

Red Spire Brunch House

(with an optional beer-cheese topping), Northwoods sodas, root beer floats. Pick-up and delivery only. 2658 CROSSING CIRCLE, TRA-

231.252.4048 LD • $

Right Brain Brewery Traverse City’s beloved brewpub. 225

country-style breakfasts and traditional American lunches. 1033

E. EIGHTH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.4124 BL • $

Sauce at Incredible Mo’s Pizza, pasta, salad in a kid-

friendly atmosphere. 1355 SILVER LAKE CROSSINGS BLVD., GRAWN, 231.944.1355 LD •BAR • $-$$

Sparky's Diner Famous diner with the same great service,

food and environment you love, with more exciting options.

1462 W. SOUTH AIRPORT RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8005 BLD • $$

Taste of India In the Food Court of Grand Traverse Mall, au-

thentic Indian cuisine: curry, paneer, vindaloo and more. 3200 W. SOUTH AIRPORT RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.220.9057 LD • $$

TC Italian In the Cherryland Center, from-scratch salad dress-

ings, country French bread pizzas and delish lasagna. 1752 S. GARFIELD AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.631.8745 LD • $$$

Tiki Pineapple Tropical café offering eats and treats, including their famous dairy- and fat-free Dole Whip soft-serve. 1218 S. GARFIELD AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.3868 BL • $

White on Rice Sushi and ramen served carryout or dine-in. 510

W. 14TH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.633.7423 LD • $-$$

Willie’s Rear Full breakfasts, sandwiches, burgers. Counter and table seating. 1315 W. S. AIRPORT RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5506 BL • $

NEW Brooklyn’s Pepperoni Rolls & Chicago-Style Pizza TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5001 LD • $-$$

soups, breakfast and lunch sandwiches. 537 W. 14TH ST., TRAVERSE

CITY, 231.933.8002 BL • $

Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies, soups, salads

and pasta, with daily specials. 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS!

MyNorth.com > Food & Drink > Restaurants

231.946.5872 BL • $

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T he Cu l i nary North Last Call

WINE COUNTRY WARMER

by STACEY BRUGEMAN

Beat the chill with this blood orange mulled wine.

I

n germany it’s called glüwein. In Sweden it’s referred to as glögg. In southern Brazil it’s known as quentão. Whatever you choose to call it, this snow season sipper is the perfect way to beat the chill in Michigan wine country this month.

For our take on a centuries-old classic, we use crushed cardamom pods, whole cloves, cinnamon and fresh ginger as mulling spices. Wheels of seasonal blood oranges add a sultry pop of color. Maple syrup is the perfect sweetener. What’s more? This combination of ingredients is versatile enough to be topped with whatever float you happen to have lying around. Think: Black Star Farms cherry brandy (blackstarfarms.com) or Brengman Brothers sweet vermouth (brengmanbrothers.com).

We intentionally built this recipe for the crockpot so that while you’re out there skiing, snowshoeing or ice skating, this winter warmer is ready when you get back. Go ahead; invite that other couple you bumped into back to your place.

Mulled wine is waiting.

F R O M

O U R

C E L L A R

Not flexing your mixology muscles tonight? Here’s what area beverage professionals are drinking right now.

Are you making our recipe for Duck and Cherry Ragù (page 41) this month? Consider pairing it with the 2019 Petoskey Farms Marquette, which Suzi Blanckaert—sommelier at Provisions in Boyne City—loves pouring for guests.

With “notes of cherry, berry, black pepper and spice on both the nose and palate,” it is made with 100 percent Marquette, a cold-hardy grape that is one of Blanckaert’s regional faves. petoskeyfarms.com, $28 per bottle Brian Hochstetler, the new beverage director for Boyne Mountain resort, recommends the Keweenaw Brewing Company Widow Maker this winter. While this German-hopped black ale has the dark color and “hints of smoky molasses” we tend to crave at this time of year, it’s much lighter and more quaffable than a porter or stout—making it the perfect après ski selection after one last run.–S.B. oddsideales.com, $13 for 6 cans

^

Slow Cooker Mulled Wine

Makes 8 servings 4 blood oranges 1.5 liter bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz or other red table wine ⅓ cup Michigan maple syrup 5 cardamom pods, gently crushed 5 whole cloves 1-inch knob of fresh ginger, peeled 1 cinnamon stick, plus additional for garnish An assortment of brandy, sweet vermouth or cognac for serving Juice 3 of the blood oranges, saving a peel from each and reserving the fourth orange for garnish. Add orange juice, wine and maple syrup to a slow cooker, stirring to combine. Top the mixture with 3 orange peels, cardamom pods, cloves, ginger and a cinnamon stick, and cover. Warm the mixture over low heat, being careful not to “cook” the wine—about 1½ hours depending on your slow cooker.

Once the mulled wine is heated through, slice the remaining orange and garnish each mug with a cinnamon stick and an orange slice. Ladle the mulled wine into each mug, straining off the mulling spices as you work. Serve each mug with a float of brandy, sweet vermouth or cognac—skiers’ choice.–S.B.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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photo and styling by Sarah Peschel

Stacey Brugeman is a Leelanau County-based food and beverage writer and editor. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater and Denver’s 5280, where she served as Restaurant Critic. Follow her on Instagram @staceybrugeman.

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love of the land

JOURNEY TO CHOCOLAY BAYOU

by ALLISON JARRELL

he 13-acre chocolay bayou nature Preserve is a winter lover’s bliss—stretch your legs with a leisurely half-mile snowshoe through the woods of this pristine wetland. Protected by the U.P. Land Conservancy (UPLC), the Bayou acts as a critical stopover for migrating birds and is home to mink, muskrat, black bear, deer, rare herons, eagles and diverse plant life.

If you find yourself in the area this month, don’t miss UPLC’s annual UP200 takeoff party at the Bayou on Friday, Feb. 18. The event offers a quieter, more intimate way of watching the 238-mile dog sled race versus the hustle and bustle of downtown Marquette, and viewers can expect more interaction with the mushers (who love to say “hi” back!). During the party, attendees will take a halfmile candlelit snowshoe through the preserve to the viewing area, which is within feet of the race along the Iron Ore Heritage Trail, and cozy up with warm drinks around a bonfire. (The race begins Friday night, and Chocolay Bayou is about a half-hour from the downtown takeoff.)

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For more event details, visit uplandconservancy.org or follow UPLC on Facebook @uplandconservancy.

Access: Located south of Marquette in the town of Harvey, Chocolay Bayou is nestled right off the Iron Ore Heritage Trail (IOHT), which is groomed for snowmobiles. Those driving by car can park at the Michigan Welcome Center (2201 US-41 S.) or any other IOHT access point, and then ski, snowshoe or fat tire bike in on the IOHT. Visitors can also access the preserve via an entrance and parking lot off Main Street—UPLC tries to keep this cleared, but if the snow overwhelms volunteers and it fills in, visitors can instead park on the shoulder of Main Street (allowed by the township) or at the township marina, which is about a quarter-mile down Main Street and will remain plowed through the winter. Additionally, Lake Superior Smokehouse Brewpub encourages preserve visitors who use their lot for overflow parking to stop in and have a brew or a bite to eat!

(Note: Trails are not cleared at the Bayou, so snowshoes are necessary for a winter visit.)

photo courtesy of U.P. Land Conservancy

T

Take a snowy stroll and enjoy a different vantage for the UP200 dog sled race.

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