Traverse Northern Michigan's Magazine, August 2021

Traverse 08.21

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

BIKING PRESERVING A NATURAL FUTURE SUMMERING ON ELK LAKE FERRY TO TABLE ON MACKINAC LUDINGTON’S SCENIC M-116

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SPECIAL INSERT

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Building and renovating Northern Michigan’s finest residences.

J. Peterson Realty is pleased to present a 5 bedroom classic new construction on the “Gold Coast” of Torch Lake.

Situated on one of the last remaining high and dry vacant sites on the sunset side of the lake. Three floors of open finished space includes a walkout lower level. Amenity offers all the custom features that you have come to expect from J. Peterson Homes. $2,595,000.

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J. Peterson Realty offers an amazing opportunity to build on Peninsula Drive, one of the most desirable locations in Traverse City.

Located just 10 minutes from Traverse City, the large parcel features over 200’ of West Bay frontage and a large rear parcel for your guest house or sports pavilion. Home includes an open floorplan, 4 bedrooms, 3 1/2 baths and potential future finish space in the daylight lower level. 9006 Peninsula Drive. $1,950,000. MLS # 1883141

joel@joelpetersonhomes.com • 516 E. Front St., Traverse City • 231.994.2168

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Traverse 08.21 INSIDE

F E AT U R E S

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LEAVING A LASTING LEGACY

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BIKER’S PARADISE

Your guide to sunny summer cycling in Ludington, complete with stops for coffee, craft brews and views of an iconic Northern Michigan lighthouse.

TEXT BY SAM BROWN PHOTOS BY GRANT PIERING

A six-year fundraising campaign by the Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy may be getting national recognition, but it’s what they’ve done with it that means the most to our region.

TEXT BY ALLISON JARRELL

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FERRY TO HORSE TO CHEF TO TABLE

Farm to table is revered, but what do you do when you’re a chef on an island? Grand Hotel’s Michael Cerrie and Mission Point Resort’s Randall Cox have found the answer and are making it local ... and delicious.

T E X T B Y G R E G TA S K E R PHOTOS BY ANDY WAKEMAN

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THE GRANDE DAME OF ELK LAKE

When a century-old (almost) family cottage wins a contest for having the oldest refrigerator in the country, you know the family is committed to a cherished legacy.

photo by Grant Piering

T E X T B Y K AT H Y B E L D E N PHOTOS BY COURTNEY KENT

MyNorth .com NORTHERN MIC D I SHC OI VG E R AM ONR E' ASB O UM T UAP G N OA R T HZ, I N E PEOPLE, PLACES, FOOD AND EVENTS.

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photo by Kandace Chapple

Always the unique and unexpected since 1986

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DE PART M E N T S 7 | EDITOR'S NOTE 9 | UP NORTH Las Mujeres “the women”

By terracotta sculptor Roberto Tirado Many NEW designs in stock 112 North Main Street Leland, MI 49654 (231) 256-7747 info@TampicoLelandMi.com FOLLOW US! www.facebook.com/Tampicolelandmi

Gabriel Farms—a winery, brewery, event center and, yes, a farm—invites guests to stay awhile at the 20-acre property in Petoskey; Hop aboard The Discovery for sightseeing and happy hour cruises on Grand Traverse Bay.

15 | AUGUST EVENTS

The Interlochen Arts Festival returns with an all-star lineup, and gala season is in full swing.

19 | TRAVEL Come celebrate our 20th anniversary at FARM DAY Sat., Sept. 11

Have WiFi, will travel: Michigan state parks are making it easy to take your remote work life on the road.

20 | UP IN MICHIGAN

A summer day brings lessons in boating—and swimming— to Pyramid Point’s Good Harbor Bay Beach.

53 | ON THE TABLE

Elote has long been cherished as one of the most important crops in Mexican cookery, and there’s no better way to eat Michigan corn than with Mexican flavors.

57 | LAST CALL

Pour a zesty pisco sour and toast to summer and fresh barnyard eggs!

59 | OUTDOORS

A serene sunrise stand-up paddle on Duck Lake at Interlochen State Park takes a bit of a loony turn.

60 | LOVE OF THE LAND

Launching its “Protect Wild Places” program, Gaylord nonprofit Huron Pines aims to restore 5,000 acres of habitat and 150 miles of waterways and shoreline.

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45 | THE CULINARY NORTH

May 21st - Dec. 23rd 10 am - 5 pm Closed Holidays & Sundays 4907 River Road, Frankfort 231-920-7085 CrystalLakeAlpacas.com 2nd boutique location in the Mercato in The Village at Grand Traverse Commons

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photo by Dave Weidner

Pizza or seafood? The choice is yours at Nittolo’s in Lake Leelanau; Snag a ready-made meal from Marquette’s 231 West Patisserie and go explore Dead River Falls.

Follow Us On Social Media facebook.com/mynorthmedia instagram.com/mynorthmedia pinterest.com/mynorthmedia

ON THE COVER Writer Sam Brown stops at Big Sable Point Lighthouse during a Ludington cycling trip.

PHOTO BY GRANT PIERING

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Recipe of the Month from

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NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

A MyNorth Media Publication PRESIDENT/EDITOR IN CHIEF CHIEF OPERATIONS OFFICER

Deborah Wyatt Fellows Michael Wnek

SENIOR EDITOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR MANAGING EDITOR DIGITAL CONTENT WRITER & SOCIAL MEDIA PROJECT MANAGER CULINARY COLUMNIST

Vol. 41 | No. 3

Elizabeth Edwards Carly Simpson Allison Jarrell Rachel Soulliere Stacey Brugeman

PROOFREADERS

Elizabeth Aseritis Caroline Dahlquist

REGULAR CONTRIBUTORS

Andrew VanDrie Kandace Chapple Kim Schneider Heather Durocher

ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION DIRECTOR

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ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR, SPECIAL SECTIONS

Rachel Watson Claire Houser Jen Berigan

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly

by Prism Publications Inc., 125 S Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684.

Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $24.95 for 12 issues. Single issue price: $4.50. Manuscripts must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope. All rights reserved. Copyright 2021, Prism Publications Inc. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

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Visit one of the 4 Grand Traverse Distillery tasting rooms to enjoy Michigan-made, top tier spirits and craft cocktails. For locations and hours: Grandtraversedistillery.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Editor's Note

PRESERVING THE FUTURE

by DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS

photo courtesy of GTRLC

B

y 1991, we had been publishing Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine for a decade and our work was increasingly chronicling the stepped-up pace of development in the region. The Cherryland Mall had just gone in, creating fear for the health and future of our small entrepreneurs. Rural township boards lacked the expertise and money to assess elaborate development plans presented by professional financiers and lawyers.

As Rob Manigold, a longtime farmer on Old Mission Peninsula and former Peninsula Township supervisor recalled, “Many people were simply accepting that the peninsula was going to become a bedroom community … farmers weren’t even replanting. They were just waiting for the thing to engulf them.”

The Rotary Club of Traverse City had been on the front lines of serving community needs since the founding of Rotary Charities in 1982. It was to Rotary Charities that concerned Rotary Club and community members turned to when searching for a more comprehensive answer to the protection of critical bodies of land and water, as well as farmland, the backbone of the region’s agricultural economy.

In 1991, the Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy (GTRLC) was launched in an incubator within Rotary Charities of Traverse City. At the helm of the effort was Rob Collier, someone who has that rare combination of vision and action. Rotary agreed to fund the launch of a conservancy to cover a four-county region (Grand Traverse, Antrim, Benzie and Kalkaska, and now five with Manistee),

but the club was adamant that GTRLC needed to become independent as quickly as possible.

I was a member of Rotary, pregnant with my first child and a decade into a challenging media business when Rob asked me to be on the founding board of GTRLC. I did not hesitate in saying “yes.” By that time, I was a huge fan of Tom Bailey, the executive director of Little Traverse Conservancy, having written often about Tom’s leadership and the team’s success in preserving land and water in the Petoskey region since 1972. In addition, the Leelanau Conservancy had launched in 1988, offering another roadmap for creating a conservancy from scratch.

But the task was daunting. Serving four somewhat disparate counties, as well as grasping the complex legal and financial components to the new projects, had us on the board realizing the need for outstanding leadership right out of the box. So, you can only imagine our joy when one of Tom Bailey’s lieutenants, Glen Chown, applied to be the executive director of the fledging GTRLC. Now, 30 years, 44,000 acres and 140 miles of shoreline preserved later, we celebrate Glen’s decades of leadership, the outstanding efforts of his team, the generosity of donors and the courage of landowners. There have been too many successes to count over the decades, but in this month’s issue of Traverse we shine a light on GTRLC’s audacious Campaign for Generations. Starting six years ago, through outreach at all levels in their coverage area, the GTRLC team composed a list of about 60 projects anticipated within a six-year time frame that would cost roughly $60 million to complete. They set their fundraising goal at NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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$71 million. Truly, it was beyond ambitious. And GTRLC decided they weren’t going to wait until the end to invest their resources—they would dive right in. Now, with the campaign’s end on June 30, the project list has grown to 88 and the dollars raised total $93 million. What has already been preserved through this campaign is stunning, and there is more to come.

This just doesn’t happen without a village of staff, donors, landowners, governmental units, volunteers and more. I have been on two conservancy boards, going on to serve on the Leelanau Conservancy board for nine years. I have seen firsthand the work of a committed staff, conducting “kitchen table” conversations with landowners, inspiring donors, hashing out the complex strategies between commercial and governmental entities, and then caring for the preserved land and water. In a world increasingly divided, skilled conservancy work finds unity.

Landowners lie at the heart of it all: farmers committed to keeping their land in farming but not seeing a future for their farms; landowners protecting a cherished piece of land or critical wetland, sometimes doing so in the name of a lost child or as grown children honoring their parents.

Donors take all shapes, but at the root of this group lies a commitment to being stewards for generations to come.

People donate whatever they can to projects in their region. Sometimes land is preserved for its fragility and critical role in the ecosystem; donors to those projects will never even walk the land. Other projects, many of which you will read about in this month’s feature story “Leaving a Lasting Legacy,” are preserves, open to the public. Volunteers show up month after month to cut up fallen logs, build bridges and remove invasive species, all so people can find the peace and joy so valued by the owners who once owned the land. GTRLC, like other conservancies, lists maps and trails on their website (gtrlc.org), encouraging people to explore and enjoy, knowing that celebrating is a key element to protecting.

Eyes all over the country are turning north, to this small region in Northern Michigan, wondering what is the formula behind such an incredibly successful Campaign for Generations. Talent? For sure. Commitment and courage?

Absolutely. Generosity? A must. A belief that some places simply need to live on for those generations yet to come?

This lies at the heart of it all.

There is a Greek proverb that says, “A society grows great when old men plant trees in whose shade they will never sit.” I've often repeated this when talking about the work of land and water conservancies. Thank you to GTRLC, and to all whose work allows each of us to participate in ensuring that generations to come will find shade beneath the trees in this place of our heart … forever.

Deborah Wyatt Fellows is founder and editor in chief of Traverse Magazine/MyNorth.com. debwf@traversemagazine.com

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Up North.

PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES

FARM STAY

by CARLY SIMPSON

photo by Dave Weidner

Gabriel Farms—a winery, brewery, event center and, yes, a farm—invites guests to stay awhile at the 20-acre property in Petoskey. And there’s plenty to do.

J

ust two miles outside of downtown Petoskey on E. Mitchell Road, Gabriel Farms’ lush, rolling landscape is lined with rows of cold-hardy wine grapes, apple trees, raspberry bushes and haskaps (tart berries that look like an elongated blueberry). A historic farmhouse and barn welcome guests as they drive up.

Kristi Schuil owns Gabriel Farms with her husband, Duane.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Up North

Head to toe with Hilda!

Casual Elegant Fashions for Men and Women State and Main Streets • Harbor Springs 231.526.6914 • hildaharbor@gmail.com Open Daily 10am-5pm • Sunday 12pm-4pm

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The centennial farm dates back to the late 1800s when two brothers were deeded the land after fighting in the Civil War. They grew corn and oats and raised cattle. Current owners Kristi and Duane Schuil purchased the farm in 1999 from the families of the brothers.

“After some life changes, we needed a new opportunity to pursue as a family and searched the Emmet and Charlevoix county real estate markets for an old farm/farmhouse to renovate,” Duane says. “This farm had been left fallow for 12 to 15 years, and the house was uninhabitable. We spent the first year stripping the interior, wiring the whole place and reconfiguring walls, rooms and windows, with care toward saving the original woodwork such as wainscoting and molding, then piecing it all back together, creating a modernized original farmhouse.”

The Schuils also wrapped the home with a veranda, and today guests can rent one of four bedrooms or a private apartment in a separate building via Airbnb.

Those who just want to visit for an afternoon can pick berries and apples, with a beverage in hand (the farm’s liquor license extends across all 20 acres and guests are encouraged to walk the property). The winery and brewery are the farm’s newest amenities, opened in June 2020, with three whites, two reds and a rosé currently on the menu, along with constantly rotating beers, estate hard ciders and seltzer, too, all crafted

by Kristi’s son, Keith Hansen. Kristi’s favorites are the dry rosé, which is a blend of Frontenac gris and Marquette grapes, and the German-style Kölsch.

There’s also live music throughout the summer, lots of lawn games (cornhole, bocce and more), dogs are welcome and so is outside food if you want to have a picnic or pizza with your brew. “In winter, people can bring their own snowshoes if they want to explore the property,” Kristi says. “We just want them to enjoy being out here.”

Gabriel Farms also offers various event packages, from half a day to three days, for weddings, rehearsal dinners, graduation parties, birthdays, craft nights, book clubs—whatever suits your fancy. gabrielfarmsandwinery.com

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^ HARBOR SPRINGS HISTORICAL CORRIDOR

NEW UP NORTH

Famous for designing the Shay geared locomotive, Harbor Springs inventor Ephraim Shay built an all-steel vessel called the Aha in his machine shop at the corner of Bay and Judd streets, starting construction in 1891 and tinkering with the design for three years until he launched a final version in 1894. The boat, which had been abandoned for decades within Wilderness State Park, has been extensively restored thanks to the efforts of the Harbor Springs Area Historical Society. Now, the Aha is back home in Shay Park in downtown Harbor Springs with interpretive panels about Shay’s impact on the town. The park is located across the street from the Shay Hexagon House and the Harbor Springs History Museum—both are owned by the Historical Society, which is beginning the development of a historical corridor. Learn more at harborspringshistory.org. –C.S.

A monthly column highlighting new businesses and community updates.

VITA BELLA ITALIAN KITCHEN 320 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT

Vita Bella opened back in March in the old Coho Café space, and though we’re a little late to the game, we wanted to spread the love. The restaurant serves wood-fired pizzas, homemade pasta, Italian soups, salads and desserts. There’s also a full bar and a small market with to-go items. vitabellakitchen.com LAKE DISTRICT WINE CO. 539 E. EIGHTH ST., TRAVERSE CITY

Formerly Bon Vin, new owners have purchased the neighborhood wine shop, offering Old World and New World wines with an emphasis on Michigan producers. Watch for educational tastings, industry collaborations, membership opportunities and an e-commerce store. facebook.com/lakedistrictwineco LONG ROAD DISTILLERS TASTING ROOM & COCKTAIL BAR 109 BRIDGE PARK DR., CHARLEVOIX

The Grand Rapids-based distillery recently opened a Charlevoix tasting room offering guided spirit samplings, bottle sales and a cooler full of canned cocktails to go. longroaddistillers.com OUTSIDE SOCIAL DISTRICT LUDINGTON

Know of a business that just opened or have a fun community update? Let us know at editorial@traversemagazine.com.

ALDEN’S MAGICAL DINKIES

photo courtesy of Alden Volunteers

To give visitors more space to socialize at downtown food and drink establishments, Ludington created an outdoor “social district” allowing patrons to purchase alcoholic beverages in designated cups from businesses with permits and then take them outdoors to enjoy within a defined area. Find a map of the social district at downtownludington.org/LOSD.

The next time you’re in Alden, keep an eye out for four mysterious Dinky Doors that have appeared across the village at the historic depot, lighthouse, playground and Muffin Tin restaurant. Tiny, clever creatures, Dinkies live in towns much like ours, only much smaller and sometimes invisible (wink). The Dinky Doors, created by miniaturist Lauren Delaney George and woodworker Nathan Butcher, are a part of the Alden Art Walk, which debuted in June. The walk showcases existing sculptures and sites throughout the village and an interactive map is available online or via QR codes located at each Art Walk display. On East Street, you’ll see Grandfather Duff Dinky’s door on a tree at the Tennis Court Park playground. Duff spends his evenings sitting on a branch, puffing on his pipe and enjoying a long think. At the lighthouse, Father Dinky tends to the light and his mischievous daughter, Dorothea, likes to play jokes on humans and catch rides on the town’s squirrels. Leave a note for Alden’s magical residents in a small mailbox located at the Muffin Tin, and find a map and more Dinky stories on the Alden Volunteers’ website. aldenvolunteers.com –C.S. NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Up North

ALL ABOARD!

by CARLY SIMPSON

Cruise the waters of Grand Traverse Bay on The Discovery.

photo by Dave Weidner

T

he discovery, a 65-foot vessel designed to look like a 20th-century steamboat, launched its first sightseeing and happy hour cruises on Grand Traverse Bay in June, departing from its dock at Discovery Pier (13170 S. West Bay Shore Dr.). During the Bay Sightseeing Cruise, Captain Harley, who began his boating career in Traverse City in the early '70s, shares an informative narration on TC’s past and present.

Did you know there were hardly any trees in Traverse City in the early 1900s due to logging? Or that Henry Ford used to own Power Island? And how did Grand Traverse Bay get its name? You’ll find out! In addition, all public cruises will offer a snack bar with local options like pasties and cherry pie, plus traditional goodies such as hot dogs and ice cream bars. A fullservice bar will have a variety of wines, beers and mixed drinks.

“Our goal here at Discovery Cruises is to connect the community and its visitors to one of the most beautiful bodies of water in the world; the core of what Traverse City is really all about,” says Cruise Director Tammy Hoy. “With

our passion to protect the bay for many generations to come, and in working with our environmental partners, we want to be a resource for the public to not only enjoy time on the water, but to also learn about the water.”

The boat also operates as a venue for private events such as weddings, marketing itself as Traverse City’s only floating event center. It has two fully enclosed decks and outdoor observation areas to soak up the sun or to say “I do” with the bay as your backdrop. The Discovery is U.S. Coast Guardcertified to carry up to 150 passengers.

“The lower deck is climate controlled which can be a nice alternative to our region’s hot and humid summer days,” Tammy adds. “We have versatile seating arrangements for any type of event with chairs and tables for all guests and can accommodate most catering functions, including formal buffet set ups or cocktail receptions. Formal or casual, we can just about do it all!”

View cruise schedules and find more information about private events at discoverycruisestc.com.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Lake Michigan Waterfront

MLS 188 8140

The MICHIGAN HEMINGWAY SOCIETY The Society promotes education about Michigan’s influence on Ernest Hemingway’s life and works, especially his Nick Adams stories.

The annual Hemingway Weekend Conference this year will be October. 1-3, 2021 at the Terrace Inn in Petoskey, MI, focusing on “Hemingway and the Indians.”

Join us for a fun and enlightening weekend. Conference activities will include fellowship with speakers, dinners, exhibits, and tours of Northern Michigan sites where the Nobel Prize-winning author spent his boyhood summers.

Suzy Voltz

(231) 651-9711 suzy.voltz@gmail.com

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YOU’RE INVITED

See details at: www.MichiganHemingwaySociety.org

The viewers of Good Morning America chose it as “The Most Beautiful Place in America”.

It features sandy beaches, sparkling waters, and towering dunes, preserved and protected by the National Park Service.

Others claim to be close to it.

We don’t. It surrounds us.

So, save the driving…vacation here and stay here.

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TIX Watch for the MyNorthTix symbol and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

photo by Rachel Hag gerty

August edited b y LIBBY STALLMAN

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Josh Martin’s music, rooted in the country and bluegrass traditions of his eastern Kentucky heritage, is a clear reflection of the stories and sounds of the past.

Catch his performance at Crooked Tree Arts Center in Petoskey.

MyNorthTickets.com Named one of the Best Books of 2020 by USA Today and longlisted for the Center for Fiction's First Novel Prize, Susie Yang's New York Times bestselling novel, "White Ivy," is filled with surprising twists and a nuanced exploration of class, race and coming of age. Free, virtual event. nationalwritersseries.org At its annual Legacy Gala, Thompsonville’s Michigan Legacy Art Park will present Detroit artist Lois Teicher with the 2021 Legacy Award. She is one of Detroit’s most prolific and groundbreaking artists, well known for her large-scale steel sculptures. MyNorthTickets.com

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Back for a second season, Theater under the Tent is an open-air performance series in Traverse City featuring everything under the summer sun. Through August, enjoy stand-up comedy, first-class theatrical plays, live music, Tuesday dance nights and more. oldtownplayhouse.com Ore to Shore is the third largest point-to-point bike race in the Midwest. The course travels through Ishpeming, heads north into beautiful wooded wilderness, crosses the Dead River and finishes in Marquette at the Lake Superior shoreline. travelmarquette.com/events The 16th Annual Lobster Fest Fundraiser at the Grand Traverse Lighthouse (Leelanau State Park) in Northport includes an incredible dinner and silent auction, with proceeds benefiting the continued restoration and preservation of the historic lighthouse.

MyNorthTickets.com

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The 34th Annual Rubber Ducky Festival is back for 2021! Race day is Aug. 21 in Bellaire with many family activities, games, sidewalk sales and more from Aug. 16–22. bellairechamber.org

FRI

Rain or shine, dusk is the time for a drive-in double feature at the Cherry Bowl in Honor. Play some vintage mini-golf, take advantage of the playground and hula hoops, and of course, popcorn. Modernday double features every night. cherrybowldrivein.com

THU

The annual Cedar Polka Fest kicks off today under the big tent, running through Aug. 29.

The Polka Festival has become a signature event in Leelanau County, attracting Polka bands and enthusiasts from across the Midwest. cedarpolkafest.org

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Please note, as these dates approach, some events may be modified, postponed or canceled to protect the safety of both event organizers and attendees. Check online or call ahead to confirm details. Throughout the year, visit MyNorth.com/Events for current community happenings.

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Events

INTERLOCHEN ARTS FESTIVAL RETURNS

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by CARLY SIMPSON

The 2021 Lineup

The highly anticipated tradition is making a comeback this month, after being canceled in 2020.

Chicago Tuesday, Aug. 3, 7:30 p.m., Tickets starting at $57

Harry Connick, Jr. and his Band: Time to Play!

Tuesday, Aug. 10, 7:30 p.m., Tickets starting at $69

The Greatest Hits of Foreigner Saturday, Aug. 14, 7:30 p.m., Tickets starting at $41

Jake Owen Thursday, Aug. 26, 7:30 p.m., Tickets starting at $37

Old Crow Medicine Show with special guest Molly Tuttle Saturday, Aug. 28, 7:30 p.m., Tickets starting at $29

Buddy Guy with Robert Randolph & the Family Band Sunday, Aug. 29, 7:30 p.m., Tickets starting at $32

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he interlochen arts festival has brought world-class performing artists to Northern Michigan since 1964, and this year is no different. The limited 2021 season taking place Aug. 3–29 will see Harry Connick, Jr., Chicago and Jake Owen headlining the event, which marks the return of in-person public performances at Interlochen's Kresge Auditorium. The six-concert series will also include performances by best-selling rock band Foreigner, two-time Grammy Award winners Old Crow Medicine Show with special guest Molly Tuttle and blues icons Buddy Guy and Robert Randolph. Tickets went on sale June 22

OUTDOOR MUSIC EVENTS Charlevoix Live on the Lake

Thursday evenings from 7–9 p.m. at East Park Odmark Performance Pavilion. visitcharlevoix.com Grand Traverse Pavilions Concerts on the Lawn

A U G U S T Northport Music in the Park

Friday evenings at G.M. Dame Marina Park. Music begins at 7 p.m. and runs until 9 p.m. Bring chairs and blankets. northportomenachamber.org

Performances every Thursday in Traverse City at 7 p.m.

Freewill donations benefit the Pavilions. gtpavilions.org

ARTS & CRAFTS FAIRS

Music in the Park

Veterans Memorial Park, 9 a.m.–4 p.m.

Thursday evenings at Marquette Park on Mackinac Island.

Music starts at 6:30 p.m. Bring a picnic and lawn chairs. Rain location is Community Hall. mackinacartscouncil.org

Erickson Center for the Arts Music in the Park

Wednesday evenings through August from 6:30–8:30 p.m. at Erickson Center Park in Curtis. Bring a chair and picnic dinner.

Donations always appreciated. ericksoncenter.org

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E V E N T S 8/14: Charlevoix’s Waterfront Art Fair

East Park, 9 a.m.–6 p.m.

8/20–8/21: 45th Annual Frankfort Art Fair

Market Square Park, Fri. 1–7 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m.–4 p.m.

8/21: Downtown Art Fair

Traverse City Open Space, 10 a.m.–5 p.m.

8/6: Elk Rapids Harbor Days Arts & Crafts Fair 8/7: 45th Annual Upper Peninsula Gem & Mineral Show, Ishpeming

Elks Lodge, 9:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m.

8/7–8/8: Suttons Bay Art Festival

Next to Marina Park, Sat. 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Sun. 10 a.m.–5 p.m.

WALK, RUNS & CYCLING EVENTS 8/7: Virtual Port Oneida Run, Glen Arbor

Run whenever you choose between July 7 and August 7.

Proceeds help preserve more than 200 historic buildings and landscapes in Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. phsb.org

photo by Taylor Brown

M O R E

and can be purchased at tickets.interlochen.org. Proceeds from ticket sales fund scholarships for young artists to attend Interlochen Arts Camp and Interlochen Arts Academy.

While the festival traditionally includes concerts, plays and musicals by top ensembles of Interlochen Arts Camp, the summer 2021 Arts Festival will consist entirely of concerts, all but one of which will take place after the conclusion of Interlochen Arts Camp. Arts Camp 2021 student performances are closed to the public, though many are livestreamed at interlochen.org/live. And, as always, concerts by the World Youth Symphony Orchestra are broadcast live on Interlochen Public Radio.

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Eve "Bonnet" by Lois Teicher at Michigan Legacy Art Park

LEGACY GALA 2021 FRIDAY, AUGUST 6 At its annual gala at Crystal Mountain in Thompsonville, Michigan Legacy Art Park will present Detroit artist Lois Teicher with the 2021 Legacy Award. Teicher is one of Detroit’s most prolific and groundbreaking artists, and has lived and worked in the city her entire life.

She's well known for her large-scale steel sculptures, including "Curved Form with Rectangle and Space" (2000), installed in Detroit’s Hudson Art Park near The Scarab Club; "Bonnet" (1999), permanently installed in the Michigan Legacy Art Park; "Bag" (2011) in Kansas City, Missouri; "Functional Reference #1" (1993) at The Dennos Museum in Traverse City and "Paper Airplane Series" in Bishop Airport, Flint.

AUGUST GALAS

by CARLY SIMPSON

Support the arts in Northern Michigan, and enjoy a swanky night out.

STARRY NIGHT GALA WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 11 The Northport Art Association’s first annual fundraiser will be held at The Ridge at Verterra, a Northport venue with sweeping views of Grand Traverse Bay and Lake Michigan. The evening will include auction items, a strolling dinner, libations, music and dancing under the stars. Delectable bites will be prepared by an all-female team of area chefs, including Kim Ryan, winner of season 16 of “Hell's Kitchen,” Stephanie Wiitala of S2S in Traverse City and more.

This donor event is championing the new pottery studio at the Village Arts Building, home of the Northport Arts Association (northportartsassociation.org). Tickets are $125 per person and available at MyNorthTickets.com.

M O R E 8/14: Crystal Lake Team Marathon & Solo Run

One of the most beautiful 26.2-mile courses in the state of Michigan around Crystal Lake in Beulah. Race as a team or as an individual. clcba.org 8/15: Traverse City Triathlon

photo by Lydia Mejia

Swim in West Grand Traverse Bay, bike past orchards and vineyards and run along the water before finishing at Bowers Harbor Park. traversecitytriathlon.com FESTIVALS & HOLIDAYS 7/30–8/7: Baroque on Beaver

The 20th anniversary season of the classical music festival on beautiful Beaver Island. baroqueonbeaver.org

A U G U S T

The Legacy Gala will feature a video tribute to Teicher, who is expected to be in attendance, a silent auction, cocktail hour, sparkling wine reception, locally-sourced dinner and live music.

General admission tickets are $100 per person and available at MyNorthTickets.com.

The gala is the signature fundraiser for Michigan Legacy Art Park, a nonprofit located on a 30-acre preserve boasting a collection of more than 50 works of art and 30 poetry stones. The nonprofit’s mission is to inspire lives through creative public programs that connect art, nature and history. michlegacyartpark.org

E V E N T S

8/3–8/29: Interlochen Arts Festival

8/13–8/15: Hoxeyville Music Festival

Harry Connick, Jr., Chicago and Jake Owen will headline the return of in-person public performances at Interlochen's Kresge Auditorium Aug. 3–29. interlochen.org

A socially-distanced festival returns to Wellston with Billy Strings, The Allman Betts Band, The Sam Bush Band, Yonder Mountain String Band and more. hoxeyville.com

8/4–8/7: Elk Rapids Harbor Days Festival

8/27–8/29: Big Fam Music & Arts Festival

Arnold’s Amusements, car show, arts and crafts show, games, fireworks and more. elkrapidsharbordays.org 8/7: Straits Brews Bash

Diverse genres from funk acts to futuristic and electronic artists will be featured at Harmony Pines in Lake Ann. bigfamfestival.com

The fourth annual event will take place dockside at St. Ignace Marina. Sample from 45 varieties of craft beer, grab some pub food and listen to live music. stignace.com

8/12–8/15: Farmfest

A relaxed and intimate folk music festival in Michigan’s woods between Johannesburg and Vienna Corners. farm-fest.com

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Travel

CAMPGROUND WIFI? WORK WHEREVER!

by HEATHER JOHNSON DUROCHER

More Michigan state parks are adding WiFi, making it easy to take your remote work life to new places.

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it the road with your laptop and take full advantage of working remotely at several Northern Michigan campgrounds. These four tips will ensure you have a successful and stunning experience.

1. PICK YOUR DESTINATION A simple way to secure your midweek camping spot, given the increased numbers of people visiting state parks, is to check the handy DNR campground maps showing availability. This is a newer tool from the DNR and helps locate available sites on shorter notice. (midnrreservations.com) 2. SELECT LODGING YOUR WAY Lodging choices keep expanding at state parks, so if pitching a tent, especially during the colder months, isn’t your thing, no problem. There are many overnight accommodations available, from cabins, yurts and safari-style tents, to lodges, cottages and pop-up campers—some with many of the amenities of home. Even tepees are available. Find a list of options and locations at michigan.gov/dnr (on the navigation bar, click “Things to Do” then “Camping & Lodging”).

3. ASK SOME QUESTIONS AHEAD OF TIME Maia Turek, a resource development specialist with the Michigan Department of Natural Resources, suggests calling your desired destination ahead of time to confirm that WiFi is available. Inquire about the best spots for accessing the WiFi, too, and how good the cell reception is in that area.

photo courtesy of Michigan DNR

4. SOAK UP THE SIGHTS—ALL OF ‘EM You can, of course, find your I’m-off-the-grid bliss in non-WiFi parks, too. So, mix it up. On a recent trip to the U.P., we had zero cell service at Tahquamenon Falls State Park; we knew that ahead of time and enjoyed our time spent “out of range.” But when we headed to Baraga State Park, we did so knowing there would be WiFi and we’d be able to connect and work. The common thread? Gorgeous places to explore.

Find more outdoor experiences in the Outdoors section of the redesigned MyNorth.com.

Heather Johnson Durocher writes from Traverse City, where she lives with her husband, Joe, and their three kids. She is the founder of the travel and active lifestyle site MichiganRunnerGirl.com and also hosts a weekly podcast.

^ State Parks with WiFi Upper Peninsula Baraga State Park, Baraga: Overlooks scenic Keweenaw Bay on the Lake Superior shoreline.

— Fayette Historic State Park, Garden: Set in the historic town of Fayette on Lake Michigan’s Big Bay de Noc. — Fort Wilkins Historic State Park, Copper Harbor: Home to an 1844 military outpost with costumed interpreters and one of the first Lake Superior lighthouses.

— Muskallonge Lake State Park, Newberry: Situated between Lake Superior and Muskallonge Lake, this region is filled with lakes, streams and stunning forests.

— Van Riper State Park, Champion: Has 1.5 miles of waterfront along Lake Michigamme and 1.5 miles of frontage along the Peshekee River.

— Porcupine Mountains Wilderness State Park, Ontonagon: One of the few last big swaths of wilderness in the Midwest with waterfalls, sweeping vistas and beautiful trails.

Lower Peninsula Downstate, five state parks have WiFi: Mears State Park, Pentwater; Bay City State Park, Bay City; Holly Recreation Area, Holly; Port Crescent State Park, Port Austin and Sleeper State Park, Caseville.

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Up in Michigan

A NEW VANTAGE

by TIM MULHERIN

photo by Allison Jarrell

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A summer day brings lessons in boating— and swimming—to Good Harbor Bay Beach.

n my home office desk in Indianapolis rests a special keepsake: a palm-sized triangular piece of limestone. Intentionally, it’s been placed next to a copy of naturalist Loren Eiseley’s collection of essays, “The Immense Journey,” a personal favorite. The stone commemorates an afternoon in the summer of 2010 when my Traverse City friend Craig, my wife, Janet, and I ventured out to Pyramid Point, not by the usual route—exiting M-22, parking at the foot of the hill and hiking up to see the breathtaking vista of Lake Michigan and the Manitou Islands—but by making landfall via boat on the beach below. The stone bears an inscription I made with a black Sharpie on four of its five sides (leaving the base untouched): Pyramid Point; Good Harbor Bay; Tim, Janet, Craig; 7.12.10.

Back then, Craig owned a used but well-maintained Boston Whaler Montauk, and he wanted to take the 17-foot watercraft out on Lake Michigan to see how it would handle. On that July day, the Great Lake’s surface was animated by 1- to 2-foot waves, well within the unsinkable Whaler’s capability, and calm enough for a decent day trip. Craig called me around 7 a.m. with an invitation to join him. “We’ll motor over to the beach in Good Harbor Bay beneath Pyramid Point. Never been there before. Why not?” “Why not” is the only reason we ever needed to do anything adventurous together.

We launched out of Leland Harbor, leaving the protection of its U.S. Army Corps of Engineers-constructed stone piling breakwater and entered open water, the everbeckoning Manitou Islands to the west. The summer day was splendid, with a light northerly breeze and plenty of sun giving a bejeweled glaze to the surface of the lake. We stayed within a quarter mile of the shoreline, passing Whaleback, the hill resembling its namesake that makes up the Whaleback Natural Area, as we made our way across Good Harbor Bay toward our destination: Pyramid Point’s secluded beach.

Janet and I have hiked the just-over-a-mile Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore Pyramid Point trail many

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times over the years. It takes about 20 minutes to traverse the uphill path through the remnants of a spent orchard and the beech-maple and pine woods surrounding the trail.

Then, almost suddenly, you’ve reached the top of the bluff.

And below you are Lake Michigan’s aquamarine waters stretching off into the horizon.

During one Pyramid Point hike about five years ago, Janet and I made the ascent and emerged into the small clearing that opens up to the dramatic Lake Michigan panorama. As happens during the summer in such precious havens of tranquility, they become more public: we were not alone. Already there—we were the intruders this time—was a group of Mennonites taking in the view. It appeared to be a family: a mother, father, grandparents and five girls, ranging in age from perhaps 8 to 16.

As is their way, the Mennonite girls were wearing plainly beautiful pastel-colored summer dresses in yellow, green, blue, violet and pink with white bonnets. Unlike some tourists with their other-people-be-damned behavior, the girls were politely reserved as they gazed at the islands, pointing at features on the Manitous and out in the water, including the navigational Crib in the Manitou Passage, several sailboats, seagulls and cormorants winging by. This was a Norman Rockwell painting come to life. Their serene appreciation for the moment enhanced that of our own. If only all visitors would leave this type of impression: loving it all while disturbing nothing.

We were about 50 yards offshore when Craig cut the motor. “There are some huge boulders around here. So we’re going to have to swim in,” he explained.

I hurled out the fore anchor; Craig tossed the aft. They easily found purchase in the sandy bottom. Flippers, masks and snorkels on, we slipped into the opaque wave-driven water, careful not to be knocked about by the bobbing boat.

The water was shallow, perhaps 5 feet deep, as we propelled our way in, hands searching blindly for and finding large rocks immediately below, careful to avoid an unforgiving painful surprise. Within minutes, we were standing on the beach, removing our snorkeling gear. Several hundred feet above us was Pyramid Point.

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Near our beachhead, a large tree limb had washed ashore from the Manitous or Wisconsin or who-knows-where and rested half submerged in the sand. “This is a fine place to chill for a while,” Craig announced as he sat down. I joined him while Janet walked the beach.

“I said a few prayers as we swam in,” Craig confided.

“They worked,” I said with relief.

“I’m surprised none of us got hurt,” he added. “Those waves could have shoved any of us into one of those boulders and made an orthopedic surgeon’s dream.” Then Craig resounded his proprietary got-away-with-itagain victory laugh.

Yet, even knowing the challenge, I didn’t agonize over the prospect of our return swim to the Whaler. Here, for the moment, was serenity, so precious and rare to Janet and me, desk jockeys out on liberty.

It took a few minutes longer going against the beachward-insistent waves, but we made it back to the Whaler unscathed. Back across Good Harbor Bay, past Whaleback and into Leland Harbor. Back up the boat launch with the Whaler, securing it to the trailer. Back into Craig’s pickup truck to retrace the seven miles down M-22 to South Good Harbor Bay Trail. Back safe and sound at our cabin in Cedar. We had made it all the way back—accomplished and pleasantly fatigued once again.

Perhaps someday we’ll get another opportunity to motor over to the Pyramid Point beach, though I doubt it.

The degree of difficulty is beyond my comfort zone now that I’m older and more risk averse, having made it this far relatively intact. But I can look back fondly on that day, that very short chapter in my own immense journey, whenever I glance at the Pyramid Point rock on my desk. And that will do just fine.

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Tim Mulherin and his wife own a seasonal home in Cedar and have been visiting the lower northwestern Michigan region since the mid-'80s.

This essay is excerpted from Tim’s book “Sand, Stars, Wind, & Water: Field Notes from Up North,” which was published by Mission Point Press in June and is available in stores and on Amazon.

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my wife and i kept asking ourselves this as the quaint town of Ludington unfolded before us while the steady cadence of our bikes carried us through the lakeside town.

We arrived in Ludington on a bright sunny day as the town hummed with the bliss of summer in Northern Michigan—barefoot kids waiting in line for ice cream, soccer practice in the park and dozens of people bobbing in the warm waters of Lake Michigan.

We had heard about a scenic bike route from downtown to Ludington State Park on M-116 and decided to see it for ourselves.

Once we unpacked and got settled at Stearns Park, our first stop was Spindrift Cyclesports. We grabbed a cup of coffee while the mechanics tuned bikes and trued wheels. Dave, the owner, answered our questions and provided some route suggestions.

Ludington, it turns out, is a biker’s paradise, and Dave was excited to share a trail map filled with riding options in the area for families, mountain bikers and beyond. More than just an

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Clockwise from top right: Sam scans the horizon on the ride back to town, probably wondering what type of beer he’ll order at Ludington Bay Brewing; Riding without hands is always fun, no matter how old you are; Wide shoulders on M-116 make this a safe and easy road biking route; Kathy Maclean owns Spindrift Cyclesports with her husband, Dave; Sam visits the caffeination station at Spindrift Cyclesports before the ride.

impressive trail network, this town has a community of dedicated volunteers to make sure the trails are constantly expanding and well maintained.

Mountain bikers will find eight miles of single-track trails at Ludington School Forest and a winding network of

Free booklets are also available at Spindrift Cyclesports, outlining an array of riding opportunities.

We left the shop feeling inspired. In many towns, it’s too easy to hop in a car to run errands, even when it’s safe and fun to ride a bike. As lifelong bikers ourselves, we were encouraged to see a place so committed to providing access to trails and spearheading the importance of outdoor recreation via two wheels.

Once we finally hit the pavement, a smooth and wide shoulder guided us north as Lake Michigan revealed herself just outside of town. Here, the road hugs the coastline where freshwater glistens on the left behind dune grass and birch trees, while on the right, continuous sand dunes tower over the landscape.

We traded glances from the dunes to the lakeshore for

LUDINGTON, IT TURNS OUT, IS A BIKER’S PARADISE. trails just outside city limits. They didn’t forget about gravel riders, winter fat bikers or bikepackers either; no matter the time of year or type of bike, you’ll find a trail for it. For road bikers, countless options throughout the countryside provide views of farms, lakes, rivers and more. Bike route maps and more information can be found at pureludington.com.

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PLAN YOUR

B I K I N G DAY T R I P WHERE TO PARK STEARNS PARK Stearns Drive, access off N. Lakeshore Drive Begin your ride at this lakeside park with 2,500 feet of sandy shoreline, picnic tables, grills, a playground, bathrooms and plenty of parking spaces.

WHERE TO RIDE STEARNS PARK TO LUDINGTON STATE PARK is a 13-mile round trip ride. Add 1.5 miles for the Cartier Park detour and another 3.6 miles if you ride or walk to the lighthouse.

Riding the paved path in the state park connecting the Hamlin day-use area to Lake Michigan will add another mile. Bikes are not allowed on any unpaved foot trails (except for the lighthouse trail) or crosscountry ski trails in the state park.

Directions: From Stearns Park, head north on M-116 (N. Lakeshore Drive). In about a mile, turn right on Slagle Avenue and right again on Plank Avenue for a quick detour through Cartier Park (optional). Cartier Park is an 80-acre natural area with a winding path through a hardwood forest. Retrace your route back to M-116 and keep heading north until you arrive at Ludington State Park, about 5.5 miles.

Tip: Ride or walk 1.8 miles of gravel and sand to Big Sable Point Lighthouse. The trail leaves from the Pines Campground on the north side of the park.

Tip: Ride the paved bike trail that runs along the Big Sable River linking the campgrounds to Lake Michigan and Hamlin Lake day-use areas. Trail maps and information can be found at the entrance gate of the park or online at michigan.gov/dnr.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK SPINDRIFT CYCLESPORTS 102 W. Ludington Ave. The Sprindrift coffee bar features locally roasted coffee beans from Roaster Jack Coffee Co., espresso drinks and tea from Light of Day Organics. spindriftcyclesports.com

LUDINGTON BAY BREWING 515 S. James St. The brewery has 20-24 beers on tap daily, a delish food menu (burgers, pizza, pulled pork tacos), lots of patio seating and an energetic atmosphere. ludingtonbaybrewing.com

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the next five miles, reminded of the freshwater fortune that surrounds most of our wonderful state. A bike ride through new landscapes and unfamiliar neighborhoods unveils the character of a region at the kind of leisurely pace a car ride just can’t provide. Every time we ride somewhere new, we are reminded that this is why we bring our bikes everywhere. Besides, food and beer just taste better when you ride your bike to get them.

Once we arrived at Ludington State Park, we peddled on to Big Sable Point Lighthouse. The 1.8-mile trail that takes you there is a mix of sand and gravel. If you’re not comfortable riding out to the lighthouse, the walk is worth it. Once you round the corner and see the classic black and white structure that has guided sailors and boats since 1867, you’ll be glad you did.

We continued to explore the state park via the paved biking routes that stitch through wetlands, dunes and hardwood forests. With more than 5,000 acres of protected land, it provides a sanctuary for curious minds that need to hit reset. Amenities are limited at Ludington State Park though, so when it’s time to eat, head back to town on the same route.

A northerly tailwind with a slight chill whisked us back into Ludington as the light faded and the dunes turned amber. We stopped by Ludington Bay Brewing to end the day’s adventure; with local beer on tap and a great menu, it was the perfect place to unwind.

And what’s a day peddling around a new town without ice cream?

After packing up our bikes, we pulled into an ice cream shop with

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WE DROVE HOME WITH STICKY HANDS AND TIRED LEGS, GRATEFUL FOR THESE LONG SUMMER DAYS AND BEAUTIFUL PLACES TO SPEND THEM IN.

Opposite top to bottom: Sam and Laura explore Big Sable Point Lighthouse at the end of the ride; The whitewashed bathrooms at the lighthouse are straight out of a Wes Anderson film. This page top to bottom: Don’t miss the detour through Cartier Park on your way to the state park; The gang refuels at Ludington Bay Brewing; A quick stop for a dip in the lake before heading home.

dim lights and an empty parking lot. As I shifted the car into reverse, the owner popped his head out to apologize. “Sorry folks, we just shut everything down,” he said. “But I can grab anything you’d like from the freezer. Since the registers are closed, these are on me.”

We drove home with sticky hands and tired legs, grateful for these long summer days and beautiful places to spend them in.

As the light faded and we headed north, we reflected on our time in Ludington and how each individual experience combined to make it so memorable. We found the caffeine and information we needed at the bike shop from the passionate owner and ended the night with someone going out of their way to make sure we could enjoy a sweet treat, even if it cost them money. In between, we found the stunning scenery, bike trails and craft beer we came for.

We only spent a few hours discovering this small town, and it left a lasting impression. I can only imagine what we’d come away with after a few days. See you soon, Ludington.

Sam Brown writes from Empire where the land, lakes and people inspire his writing. Tag along with his outdoor pursuits on Instagram @gnarggles.

Grant Piering is a Traverse City-based adventure-lifestyle photographer and videographer showcasing organic experiences and memories. grantpiering.com NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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A LE VING A

A L STING

A LEG CY

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GRAND TRAVERSE REGIONAL LAND CONSERVANCY CELEBRATES 30 YEARS——AND MANY MORE AHEAD——OF PRESERVING A NATURAL FUTURE.

BY ALLISON JARRELL / PHOTOS COURTESY OF GRAND TRAVERSE REGIONAL LAND CONSERVANCY

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o you remember the moment you realized how special the North’s natural, wild places are? Was it while climbing sandy dunes, or during a serene marshy paddle? A walk through the woods or a moonlit snowshoe hike?

Kate Pearson recalls such a moment during a winter excursion at Maplehurst Natural Area years ago.

Pearson, the senior charitable giving specialist for Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy (GTRLC), was leading a snowy group hike on the 389-acre Antrim County property, which is a vital part of the Chain of Lakes watershed and home to 150 acres of steep hardwood forested bluffs, open meadows and the 60-acre spring-fed Lake Maplehurst. It was her aim that afternoon to explain just how ecologically important the area is, and why it needs to be protected from potential development.

“This land has an inland lake and ridge views of Torch Lake, Elk Lake and Grand Traverse Bay—it’s so easy to imagine how readily it could be developed,” Pearson says.

As she spoke with the group, a snowy owl flew from the Torch Lake side over their heads, toward the northeast. “We just stood there and watched. It was so beautiful,” Pearson recalls.

Moments later, two eagles soared over the group, coming from the northeast.

What more could she possibly say?

“I just felt like nature was saying to us, ‘Yes... Thank you,’” Pearson says, her voice catching.

Protecting the North’s significant natural areas, wildlife habitat and farmlands is personal for Pearson and her colleagues at GTRLC. Advancing preservation and stewardship has been the conservancy’s mission for the last three decades—they’ve protected more than 44,000 acres of land and 140 miles of shoreline in the process.

And they’re not slowing down any time soon.

That’s thanks in large part to dedicated, diligent staff members who planned and executed an unprecedented six-year fundraising campaign—the Campaign for Generations—which came to a close on June 30 (just a couple months after the conservancy’s 30th anniversary).

GTRLC Executive Director Glen Chown—who celebrated his 30th anniversary leading the conservancy in June—says their phones were “ringing off the hook” back in 2015 when the campaign began.

“Some of the most outstanding properties in the region were coming online,” Chown recalls. “Community members and landowners were calling us over and over and saying, ‘Did you hear about this property?’ We

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Opposite: Situated at the northern tip of Lake Bellaire, Golden Days Loon Nature Sanctuary is home to two cold-water creeks that meander through a hardwood-conifer swamp. This vital ecosystem provides cover and food for a variety of aquatic life, including loons.

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knew we were going to lose a lot of natural areas that people treasure if we didn’t do some sort of campaign.”

So, the GTRLC team undertook a massive effort to prioritize and catalogue properties across their five-county service area—Antrim, Benzie, Grand Traverse, Kalkaska and Manistee. What they unearthed was a list of about 60 projects anticipated within a six-year time frame that would cost roughly $60 million to complete.

But the conservancy’s board argued that the goal wasn’t enough. It was just a list of properties on the staff ’s radar— what about the unknowns that would inevitably come up?

So, they went big and landed on $71 million.

“It was an audacious goal—there’s never been a campaign of this magnitude in the Great Lakes region,” Chown says.

“It was uncharted territory.”

When the campaign closed on June 30, the 60 projects envisioned had grown to 88, and fundraising far surpassed the $71 million goal, totaling $93 million. “The need was there,” Chown says.

“We dug deeper, and our supporters did, too,” Chown adds. “They were courageously generous.”

As for the Maplehurst property, with its snowy owl and eagle sightings, it’s one of the sites protected for generations to come, thanks to more than $3.87 million raised during the campaign—and to couples like the one Pearson met during that winter hike who committed to a $100,000 pledge.

“Things like that have happened repeatedly throughout this campaign—where the quality of the projects speak for themselves,” Pearson says. “We’re working to protect these lands that are of the absolute highest import to the wildlife, their habitat, and to our way of life. People getting out and understanding that interconnectedness really created a wave of generosity.”

. wetland frontage along the Torch River, connecting Torch

THE NATURAL NORTH

There’s a common thread among the variety of geographies and types of properties GTRLC has been able to protect during the campaign: without funding and the ability to move quickly, the conservancy likely would not have been able to preserve these high-priority spaces at critical junctures.

Jennifer Jay, GTRLC’s director of communications and engagement, says often the conservancy puts in years of work maintaining connections and relationships with landowners so that when a property comes on the market, they’re ready to purchase and protect the land. But that type of timeline often means funds need to be available at a moment’s notice.

Such was the case with the 290-acre Torch River Ridge Nature Preserve. Jay says GTRLC had been working with the landowner, Bill Weiss, for 25 years.

“Sometimes it takes that long to reach out, build a relationship and talk about the benefits of conservation,” she explains. “It’s about being patient until they’re ready, because we only work with willing landowners. We never pressure anybody, we just say, ‘Please don’t forget us.’”

Torch River Ridge features 1,700 feet of undeveloped

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Lake to Lake Skegemog. The site’s river frontage, steep topography, wetlands and forests provide a wide range of habitats, in addition to helping filter the runoff entering the Chain of Lakes watershed. During the campaign, the conservancy was able to raise more than $2.2 million to fully fund the creation of this preserve, with the aim of building trails for hiking, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and birdwatching.

Directly west of Torch River Ridge, landowner Vicki Jacobs chose to protect her 211-acre private property, Schuler Farm, on Lake Skegemog in Antrim County with a conservation easement as part of the campaign. Jacobs says working with the conservancy was “wonderful,” as she felt she was able to openly discuss her needs and goals.

“I have a vision of my kids and grandkids being able to be at the lake like we were when we were kids—of being able to do the same things that we did, like walking in the woods, and being able to enjoy this place just the way it is,” she says. “The fact that they’ll be able to do that is something that would really please my dad; he’d love knowing that all future generations will be able to enjoy this place.”

Then there’s the Upper Manistee Headwaters: The Milock Family Preserve in Kalkaska. The former Camp Tapico property, owned and operated by the Boy Scouts for about 80 years, spans 1,288 acres and includes a 130-acre spring-fed lake, various types of wetland habitat, several kettle-hole ponds and about a mile of the north branch of the Manistee River. The cost to preserve it? Nearly $4 million.

“We had a few large donors for that property; it all really fell into place,” says Chris Sullivan, GTRLC’s director of land protection. “Without the campaign, we would’ve looked at that and said, ‘How are we going to raise $4 million in Kalkaska County?’ Regardless of how widespread the support is for something, we need to find folks who can provide large gifts to make it happen.”

Sullivan says the game-changer for that property deal came when the Milock family gave GTRLC a three-year loan, and as long as it was paid back on time, the interest was forgiven. After GTRLC paid off the loan, the Milocks donated funds back to the project.

“They were incredibly generous to help us acquire that preserve,” Sullivan says.

A popular birdwatching spot—Arcadia Marsh—also benefited greatly from the campaign. Nearly $1.5 million was raised for the creation of a new universal access boardwalk trail that traverses the marsh and allows visitors of all ages and abilities to hike, birdwatch and enjoy two observation platforms and a small fishing pier along Bowens Creek. Arcadia Marsh is one of the last remaining coastal marshes on the eastern side of Lake Michigan, making it a critical site from both a water quality and habitat standpoint.

Jennifer Jay is especially excited about this project, following her own not-so-common wildlife encounter there.

“I went to the marsh and—I’ll never forget this moment—I saw a white pelican,” Jay recalls. “I couldn’t even speak. It was astounding. I didn’t even know that white pelicans actually migrate through this part of the world.”

Opposite top to bottom: More than $1.2 million was raised to fully fund the creation of the Mount Minnie Nature Preserve. The property, which sits on the isthmus between Platte and Little Platte lakes, features hills that rise over 135 feet above the water, six acres of highly-diverse riparian wetlands and 1,567 feet of frontage on Little Platte Lake; All 22 acres of Lower Woodcock Lake, along with a half mile of Platte River frontage, have been protected thanks to nearly $2.5 million raised during the Campaign for Generations.

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Opposite: Torch Bay Beach in Antrim County is a serene, scenic spot to explore the woods and shoreline of East Grand Traverse Bay, complete with marked trails, a viewing platform and interpretive signage.

Nearby, Arcadia Dunes also received a universal access overlook trail that offers people views of Lake Michigan perched atop the dunes. Pearson recalls hearing from one woman from Arcadia who uses a wheelchair; she had not been able to see that view of Lake Michigan since she was 15. The woman utilized the universal access trail after it opened, and later emailed her journal entry from that day to conservancy staff—enjoying peaceful moments like sitting in the sun and hearing the hush.

“I saw so many people out in nature using UA trails that would have not been outdoors if those amenities weren’t available to them,” she says. “There was so much gratitude expressed.”

Lower Woodcock Lake in Benzie County was another high-priority project that’s been fully funded thanks to the campaign. Nearly $2.5 million raised means the successful preservation of the picturesque 22-acre lake and a half-mile of Platte River frontage. The 230-acre property lies within the Platte River watershed and joins Timbers Recreation Area (Fern Lake), Upper Manistee Headwaters Preserve (Grass Lake) and Maplehurst Natural Area (Lake Maplehurst) as the only GTRLC protected lands that include an entire lake of 15 acres or more.

“In this campaign, we’ve protected three entire inland lakes. These are three lakes you can go to and you’ll never see any development of their shorelines,” Chown says.

“What’s Northern Michigan without these beautiful lakes?”

A LASTING LEGACY

Regardless of a property’s location or features, the message from GTRLC is clear—much of this work would not have been feasible without the support of numerous and magnanimous donors.

“This campaign has been so filled with heroic efforts and heroic donations, that it’s just continually inspired my faith in our community of supporters,” Pearson says. “It’s a really scary thing to see properties that are incredibly vital to our ecosystem be in harm’s way. To have conservancy supporters respond with such enthusiasm, and to see such levels of sacrificial giving—people of modest means reaching very deeply out of a love for the land ... It’s hard to put into words what that means to us.”

Sheila Crowley and her husband Max Wicha reside in Ann Arbor, but the couple also has a home on Torch Lake. It was important to them to donate to a conservation easement along Torch Lake, but also to give to the campaign in general.

“Protection of the landscape and environment is absolutely vital, and donating to the conservancy is just one of the best returns on investment that you can make,” Crowley says. “We feel we need to do our part to keep land unspoiled and beautiful so that future generations can thrive and live their best lives.”

Despite expectations, campaign donations actually increased during the pandemic, and in talking with donors over the last year, Pearson found that many people were happy to be a part of something positive.

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“There were many tearful phone calls where people said they felt so good giving in the midst of a situation where they felt helpless,” she says. “It’s easy to get overwhelmed with how to help the environment, but these properties are just so tangible and immediate. And with the pandemic, the properties became so vital for people to get outdoors, and they got so much use as people depended on these spaces for mental health. There became this feedback loop of happiness.”

It wasn’t difficult, she says, for people to understand that we have a once-in-forever chance to protect these places.

“I really think this campaign fell at an absolutely crucial time,” Pearson adds. “I had this feeling that in the future, people would reflect on this era in our region as a period of time when we retained an incredible amount of our natural resources, or we lost more than we really should have. One hundred years from now, when people look back, I want to be on the side of protecting our natural resources.”

Having grown up in Traverse City, Sullivan says the campaign was full-circle for him in a personal way—the conservancy was able to purchase an easement for a cherry farm that gave him his first job at 14 years old. But not all land is saved. The woods he played in as a boy are subdivisions now.

“There are plenty of those stories,” he says. “Every project we do, I have to assume, has that sort of impact on somebody.”

He’s thankful that the conservancy can focus on working more proactively now rather than being primarily reactive.

“To me, the greatest thing about the campaign is it has allowed us to fundraise more as a suite of projects and organizational goals,” he says. “It’s more of a big picture approach, rather than little silos for individual projects.”

Chown says land trusts across the U.S. are now looking at the Campaign for Generations as a model.

“It’s about the future, and it’s a pretty hopeful future when you think about it,” he says. “We all make a choice to live in Northern Michigan for a reason. For a lot of people, it’s the quality of our natural resources, the farmland, the views and vistas, our water quality, lakes and streams, and our sand dunes and coastlines that are some of the most geologically unique features in the world. Nobody wants to lose that, and development pressures are only growing.

We’re focused on saving the very best places.”

Chown says the conservancy doesn’t have any plans to slow down after the campaign. Looking ahead, they’re working on creating a conservation center on Three Mile Road that will better engage GTRLC’s volunteers and supporters as well as connect the TART trail system going south.

“There’s no rest for the weary, and I wouldn’t have it any other way,” he says. “We’re going to keep going, and I’m confident our supporters will be with us all the way. It’s going to be a lasting legacy.

Allison Jarrell is the managing editor at Traverse Magazine.

You can reach her at allison@mynorth.com, or follow her on Instagram: @allisonjarrellphotography.

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DISCOVER YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE: TO FIND A PRESERVE OR TRAIL NEAR YOU, VISIT GTRLC.ORG AND CLICK ON “GET OUTSIDE.” YOU’LL ALSO FIND MAPS, FIELD GUIDES, EVENTS, INFORMATION ON ACTIVE PROJECTS AND VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES.

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ferry horse chef table to

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Two Mackinac Island chefs find inspiration in locally sourced farm-fresh produce and artisanal goods— it’s just a matter of getting them across the Straits.

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n peak season, freight ferries from St. Ignace arrive at island docks six days a week around 6 or 7 a.m., each loaded with bushels of vegetables and fruits, pallets stacked with packaged foods and refrigerated meats and seafood, ready to be hauled by horsedrawn drays to the expansive kitchens of Mackinac Island’s two biggest hotels: Grand Hotel and Mission Point Resort.

Increasingly, the variety of food products—destined to feed thousands of people every day during the high season—bear the stamp of Michigan-made, arriving fresh from a host of local farms, fishmongers, bakeries and other food purveyors from across both peninsulas.

Look closely and you’ll discover greens, heirloom tomatoes and other vegetables from a small farm near Alpena. Whitefish and trout from fisheries in the Upper Peninsula. Ethically-raised chickens from an Amish farm near Cadillac. Dearborn Brand hot dogs.

Maple syrup tapped from Michigan trees.

Jams and jellies made from Michigan berries.

The list goes on …

It’s part of a growing movement called farm-to-ferry, a term coined by Liz Ware, whose family owns Mission Point Resort, and is being heartily embraced by both hotels for their extensive food operations. It’s not only about supporting Michigan farmers but also about bringing the freshest ingredients to the table within just a day or two of being picked.

“You hear so much about farm to table,” Ware says. “But before you can set your table here on Mackinac Island, you have to get the food to the ferry. It’s meant to be fun. Mackinac Island is fun.”

Coincidentally, both Grand Hotel and Mission Point Resort have new chefs at the helm of their kitchens this year, a rare occurrence in their storied histories. But not coincidentally, they are both committed to ensuring local foods are a big part of their menus.

Chef Michael Cerrie arrived at the Grand last spring. He replaces Hans Burtscher, who served as the hotel’s executive chef for three decades. Cerrie’s appointment came shortly after the iconic hotel was sold to a private equity firm by long-time stewards, the Musser family.

On the other side of the island, Chef Randall Cox arrived at Mission Point Resort this past winter. As executive chef, Cox oversees the resort’s four restaurants and banquet services. Like Cerrie, Cox comes to the island with impressive culinary chops.

Above: Chef Michael Cerrie arrived at Grand Hotel last spring; Fresh produce from Presque Isle Farm is delivered to Mission Point Resort.

Opposite: Chef Randall Cox oversees Mission Point Resort's four restaurants and banquet services.

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Chef Michael Cerrie Even before arriving at the Grand, Cerrie experienced an aha moment about Michigan’s bounty.

The stay-at-home orders last spring meant he had to hang out near Okemos, where the Grand’s sales offices are located. While hiking with his miniature English bull terrier at a nature center outside Lansing, Cerrie was overwhelmed by the aroma of fresh garlic and green onions permeating the chilly air of the still-awakening forest.

“I couldn’t figure out what it was,” recalls Cerrie, who has a penchant for cooking with foraged foods. “I wondered if it was wild onions or wild leeks, and then I noticed the entire forest floor was covered with ramps (also known as wild leeks). I had never seen anything like it, and I hike a lot. I thought, ‘Here’s a welcome to Michigan and look at the bounty the state has to offer.’”

Before landing at the Grand, Cerrie served as an executive chef for a hotel management company, helping open and run hotel restaurants across the country, including the Aloft and Element Austin Downtown in Texas. Trained at the Pennsylvania Culinary Institute in Pittsburgh, Cerrie’s résumé also includes stints at the Erie Club and Erie’s acclaimed Bayfront Grill, part of the same company.

Cerrie has embraced Michigan’s bounty, and now living on the island, he leaves when he can to visit local farmers and food purveyors and secure relationships to supply the hotel’s vast needs. And vast they are: In the summer, the Grand feeds thousands of visitors—and its employees—each day.

“We’re sourcing as much as we can from Michigan and the region,” he says, adding that the region, for him, includes neighboring Great Lakes states and southern Canada. “In some cases, we have to bring in something from somewhere else. Sometimes it’s a question of something better or a better application. Quality is paramount.”

Responsible for menu planning and preparation at all six Grand Hotel restaurants and other food operations, Cerrie has revamped dining selections across the board, from the Main Dining Room to the Jockey Club at the Grand Stand to the Fort Mackinac Tea Room. Many of the changes have been made with substitutions that highlight or include Michigan food products.

For instance, the beef goulash, a popular long-time menu entrée at Woods Restaurant, has been upgraded with higher quality Michigan beef short ribs from Detroit’s Eastern Market. Cerrie also touched up the plating to make it more contemporary. The lobster claw macaroni and cheese has been given the same treatment—the pasta now comes freshmade from a Michigan producer and not from the shelves of a bulk food distributor.

“When we look at making changes, they have to make sense. Some things are never going to go away, like the Grand Pecan Ball,” he says, noting the hotel now solely uses Michigan’s Hudsonville Ice Cream for the popular dessert, and all recipes with ice cream.

“The biggest thing I’ve noticed about Michigan is the abundance of farms and ranches and different artisans making everything from jam to cheese,” says Cerrie, who is 40 and grew up on the shores of another 36

Top to bottom: Chef Michael Cerrie in the gardens at Grand Hotel; Mackinac Island Service Co.'s freight and drayage service leaves the Arnold Freight Co. dock toward town; Drayage service approaching Grand Hotel; Grand Hotel employees unload fresh produce.

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Great Lake, Erie, in Pennsylvania. Cerrie had never been to Mackinac Island before his appointment and has primarily worked in urban areas.

“I had heard of Mackinac through friends but only knew it as that place with the horses and no cars,” he recalls, laughing and adding his impressions. “It’s really a throwback in time with all the Victorian-era buildings. Nature is so present and there is this overall calmness.”

In his search for the best chicken, he discovered the Amish-run Double L Farms in McBain, near Cadillac.

Owners Lavern and Linda Miller raise their free-range chickens without preservatives, hormones or additives. The feeding practices are 100 percent GMO-free.

“I’ve had my share of farm trips, but I’ve never seen a more meticulous, clean farm in my life,” Cerrie says. “All the feed they use is grown in Michigan. The Millers do so many things right … it’s the best chicken I’ve ever had.”

The hotel also has procured jams and jellies from an Amish producer. Bacon comes from Plath’s Meats in Petoskey. One hundred percent of the hotel’s bread comes from Michigan Bread, a wholesale baker and distributor from a Detroit suburb. That includes dinner rolls, hamburger buns, slider buns and sliced toast.

“Any breads we don’t produce, Michigan Bread provides,” Cerrie says. “Most hotels our size use frozen bread.

It’s very difficult to produce that amount of bread for a hotel this size.”

All of the Grand’s fish arrives fresh by ferry from the

Massey Fish Co. in St. Ignace. The Native American-owned company catches fish daily in the Straits. The Grand’s selection includes whitefish and lake trout.

“I’ve been to two of the largest fish operations in the United States and I’ve never seen anyone take care of their operations like Massey,” he says. “It’s immaculately clean.

I’m proud to sell their fish.”

Cerrie, known for his friendly demeanor and often interacting with guests, concedes the Grand’s menus have long contained Michigan items but never to the extent he has managed to achieve in a year or so. The changes, though deliberate, are made with recognition of the hotel’s history and its connection to generations of Michigan families.

At the Grand’s Gate House, the Trapper Burger, long a guest favorite, has been upgraded with beef from a butcher at Detroit’s Eastern Market, bacon from Plath’s Meats in Petoskey and a Michigan-baked bun. He also added a new burger, the Yooper, made with the same beef, cheese from a Michigan company and fresh produce, when possible. It’s now outselling the Trapper.

“I’m very cognizant of what Grand Hotel is for many generations of people. It means so much to so many,” says Cerrie, who has become familiar with the island through his daily walks with his dog and hikes around the fort. “How do we keep those traditions and never bastardize them? How do we elevate the experience? My palette is food. It was time to lighten some of the offerings and to showcase the region. How do we do that for the next generation?”

It’s not only about supporting Michigan farmers but also about bringing the freshest ingredients to the table within just a day or two of being picked.

Left to right: Grand Hotel's Main Dining Room, overlooking the world's longest porch, is ready for evening service; Pistachio-stuffed chicken breast (featuring chicken from Double L Farms), with succotash, Grand mole and confit citrus baby beet.

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Chef Randall Cox The island’s farm-to-ferry effort traces its beginnings to Mission Point Resort, a decades-old hotel complex that

was purchased by the Ware family in 2014.

“My parents always knew they wanted to grow the food culture here,” Liz Ware recalls. “Mackinac Island is not known as a food destination like Traverse City. We’re known for fudge. But we are an island where families gather and they often gather for meals. My parents saw an opportunity to create a culinary destination in Michigan with our restaurants.”

It’s been a slow rollout. Initially, a former executive chef and his staff solidified the family’s vision of farm to ferry, bringing a cornucopia of Michigan fruits, vegetables and other products to Mission Point. Local dried cherries were added to the chicken salad. Thick cuts of bacon from Petoskey’s Plath’s Meats topped burgers. That chef also nurtured relationships with local farmers to secure lettuce blends, greens and herbs, as well as other ingredients such as buttermilk, heavy cream and maple syrup.

“We just got started and then that chef took another job,” Ware recalls.

“Finding the right fit to make farm to ferry happen consistently has taken time. We’ve had our challenges, including COVID and other stuff.

But now we’re ready to roll, to make this happen. When you take the time to do it right, it all works out.”

Helping Mission Point make it all work out is Cox, whose culinary career began at the former Ritz Carlton in Dearborn, where he grew up.

Cox was living in Oklahoma before moving back to Michigan, and he recently served as executive chef for a 450-room Hilton resort on another island—Barbados.

In just a few months of directing food and beverage operations at Mission Point, Cox has already established relationships with local farms, including Presque Isle Farm near Alpena. From Presque Isle Farm, Mission Point secures microgreens, lettuce mixes, baby kale, heirloom tomatoes and herbs—ingredients that show up in salad selections, burger and sandwich toppings and garnishes.

That relationship with Mission Point means more work for Presque Isle Farm, but is welcomed, says owner Molly Stepanski, who was impressed Chef Cox had visited the 40-acre property to learn about their operations. The contract with Mission Point will enable Molly and her husband, Dion, to hire full-time employees to help with their growing enterprise.

“We love having chefs out here,” says Stepanski, who makes the trek to St. Ignace early every Thursday morning to deliver produce, picked and boxed a day or two before. “It shows a real investment in what they’re serving their guests and the quality of the food. We’re really excited … we have been wanting to bring on full-time employees but didn’t have the ability to do so. Accounts like this make that possible for us.”

Cox calls the relationship a “win-win,” further bolstering his goal to bring in as many Michigan products as possible and to have that bounty be reflective of the seasons. “I want to embrace the seasons and seasonality of foods and apply that to our menus in a way that will excite our guests. We want them to be excited about eating here.”

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Top to bottom: Chef Cox tasting "Farmhouse" hard cider at Presque Isle Farms; Arnold Freight Co. ferry approaches dock with food and supplies for the whole island. The ferry makes several (3-4) trips from the mainland every day; Farmer/Owner Dion Stepanski shows the lettuce Salanova (a mixture of red and green leaf lettuces) at Presque Isle Farms; Unloading fresh produce at the loading dock of Mission Point.

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“A generic tomato is not what I want. I want that heirloom tomato from a farm with no pesticides, that is organically grown, that has unbelievable natural flavors.”

– Chef Randall Cox

Seared salmon salad with Presque Isle farm-to-ferry greens, home-grown radishes, summer grilled vegetables and a lemon basil vinaigrette.

His seasonal wish-list includes cherries, apples, different flavors of honey, wild and cultivated mushrooms, nuts, ramps, onions, tomatoes, beef and wild game.

“For me it’s about having a true partnership with farmers,” says Cox, who is 52 and explores the island on evening walks with his wife. “A generic tomato is not what I want.

I want that heirloom tomato from a farm with no pesticides, that is organically grown, that has unbelievable natural flavors. It’s the same with lettuce. I want great hardy greens that are fresh and will last for several days and not break down and turn to mush as happens when you’re getting them from California.”

Cox is making menu and ingredient changes slowly, preferring to iron out kinks in the resort’s food system, which includes Round Island Kitchen, Boxwood

Coffeeshop & Cafe, Bistro on the Greens and Chianti. Mission Point’s kitchen, for instance, has already undergone $100,000 in renovations since Cox’s arrival and Ware says Cox has improved the quality of food and service at Round Island Kitchen.

“I have to crawl before I walk, walk before I run,” he says, explaining his philosophy of taking things slowly and doing each step correctly before moving on to the next.

Helping Chef Cox find the right farms and food purveyors for the resort’s massive needs is Taste the Local Difference, a food consulting, media and marketing agency whose goal is to sell more Michigan-grown and produced food across the state. The U.P. Food Exchange has also been a great resource, helping connect Mission Point to farmers for beets, baby kale and other greens.

Realizing how popular fish is with visitors he’s kicked up the resort’s whitefish offerings, adding ingredients from local farms. The whitefish sandwich is coated with bread crumbs, beer-battered and served with shredded lettuce, marinated tomatoes and lemon aioli. The herb-crusted whitefish filet, an entrée, is accented with fresh garlic and dill.

Both the Grand’s Cerrie and Cox are well aware of the affinity generations of families feel for Mackinac and its iconic hotels as they tap the benefits of farm to ferry.

It’s not just about buying Michigan-made products as a matter of local pride. It’s about finding the best ingredients, improving their menus and heightening the dining experience at their respective hotels as each charts his own course.

“How am I as a chef representing this building—Mission Point—and the Ware family? How am I representing the island?” asks Cox. “How do I help us stand out in the culinary world?”

Greg Tasker is a Traverse City-based freelance writer and works part-time at a winery on the Leelanau Peninsula.

Andy Wakeman is a Northern Michigan-based photographer inspired by the characters and scenic views of his hometown.

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The

GrandeofDame Elk Lake ST E P B ACK I N T I M E AT T H I S I CO N I C FA M I LY COT TAG E .

by KATHY BELDEN / photos by COURTNEY KENT

As a kid, i always admired the stately reddish-brown cottage that sits on the northern edge of Elk Lake. I wondered about the people who owned this grand old cottage—its entrance flanked by two pergolas and a long pale-yellow fence along Cairn Highway—just a few miles out of the village of Elk Rapids.

Who were they, and where did they come from? And what must this place look like inside?

I didn’t find out until years later when I met one of the Daane family members, Bob Daane, who, coincidentally, practiced law with my husband, Steve, in Canton, Ohio. My husband jokes that “whenever you and Bob Daane start talking ‘Up North’ stuff, it’s like everybody in the room disappears.” He’s right.

The Daane cottage was built in 1924, and one can only imagine what she’s seen over nearly 100 years. The Great Depression, World War II, the advent of TV, the moon landing, the invention of the computer, and now, a pandemic. Last, but certainly not least, she stands proudly in spite of the rollercoaster weather Michigan dishes out. She carries on and thrives, allowing the current generations of Daanes to continue making wonderful memories at Elk Lake.

On a summer day in 2020, as I'm pulling into the driveway on my way to meet the matriarch of the Daane family, I'm immediately struck by the dramatic fieldstone fireplace that spans two floors. Pink, coral and white impatiens spill out of window boxes, and gorgeous hydrangeas stand sentry near the back door. Large pillars anchor either end of the porch. Gorgeous, mature trees line the lot. Later, as I look through old photos, I realize those majestic trees were once mere saplings.

Undeterred by a global pandemic, current matriarch Barbara Daane traveled from her home in Nashville to summer at the cottage. She’s been doing this

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Barbara Daane at her beloved cottage MAGAZINE on41 Elk Lake.

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I remark to Barbara that if walls could talk, these cottage walls would have quite a story to tell.

the corner of the blueprints, which are in remarkably good shape. Gil passed away in 1974—in his 60s and in his beloved cottage.

Gil and Mamie had a daughter and two sons—one of whom was Dewey, a fascinating guy.

Considered one of the most esteemed economic minds of the 20th century, Dewey was appointed to the Board of Governors of the Federal Reserve by President John F. Kennedy, just weeks before Kennedy's assassination. Dewey served on the board until 1974.

The cottage boasts six bedrooms, with the original iron beds and claw-footed tubs adorning the bathrooms. There’s

gleaming woodwork on the railings that lead upstairs and weathered white pine floors run throughout the house. since about 1962, when the Even on a sunny day, the cotdashing young Dewey Daane tage is dark inside. The only first brought Barbara up to meet “modern” accoutrements are a his family. It was love at first small flat-screen TV, an avosight, she says of the cottage. The cado green rotary dial phone beauty of Elk Lake awed her. and an answering machine.

“We could drink water out of the Gorgeous Navajo rugs that lake back then,” she remembers. are close to 100 years old line To step into this cottage is to the floors of the living room. be in a living museum. A portrait Clockwise from top: They are in remarkable shape, of Barbara’s late mother-in-law, The cottage, as seen from Elk Lake. A vintage bedroom retaining their color beautifully Mamie Daane, hangs over the and a living room that rivals museums. Barbara visits thanks to careful storage over with friends on her porch. old piano in one corner of the the winter months. The rugs room. A photo of Mamie’s husalso line the floors of the large, band, Gil, is over the fireplace. Photographs of Daane rela- screened-in porch. The red and brown hues complement tives are displayed throughout the house. the red and black wicker furniture, which are original to Gil, a prominent Grand Rapids banker, built the cottage the cottage. A day bed piled with pillows and a chaise with Mamie. “Gil helped with the construction of the cottage, lounge make for a cozy reading spot on the porch, and a probably while wearing a bow tie,” laughs Barbara. She shares table and chairs offer a spot to enjoy an intimate dinner the blueprints with me. It's unclear who Gil and Mamie hired overlooking their little cove. The porch winds around the to actually design and build the cottage. The letters JOB are in back of the house, unscreened.

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Top to bottom: The cottage with a vintage car in front.

Daane ladies enjoying the fireplace.

Preparing to set sail. Mamie Daane’s portrait hangs over a piano.

life. There were legendary parties every July 6 to celebrate Dewey’s birthday, and the invitees included his countless tennis friends. Barbara used to have special T-shirts made yearly to mark the occasion. After Dewey’s death, these T-shirts were made into a quilt that is lovingly stored at the cottage.

Back in the day, Mamie Daane also entertained frequently and loved decorating with gladiolas. “There were a lot of elegant years,” says Barbara wistfully. In honor of

those memories, Barbara lovingly arranged several vases of gladiolas on the day of our Traverse photo shoot.

In the kitchen, the ancient fridge is quite a conversation piece for everyone who sees it for the first time. It’s an old Frigidaire that runs on Freon and is powered by a motor in the basement. “I’m afraid to get rid of it,” laughs Barbara.

“If the motor goes out, we’ll be bereft!” Metal ice cube trays remind you just how far technology has come. Fun fact: this is not the original fridge. Decades ago, the Frigidaire company held a contest looking for the oldest working refrigerator in America. The Daanes, confident they would win, entered their original fridge in the contest. Much to their dismay, they came in second place.

The kitchen is small. It’s hard to imagine prepping for elaborate dinner parties in such a limited space. The stove, while not original, is from one of Dewey’s three daughters who lives in Northport. Barbara says the stove was given to the cottage to replace the one from the early 1960s. “I used that stove for over 50 years!” she says. Cupboards that reach the ceiling are overflowing with original Fiestaware and lots of vintage dishes and glassware. There is no dishwasher—dishes are still done by hand in a farm sink.

Barbara says there was often a cook and a chauffeur who stayed in the little bedroom attached to the garage. “That was back in the old days, when there were often 14 people visiting for the weekend,” she recalls. When Dewey was a teenager, he and his brother and sister got “shipped up the street to stay in a little motel for the weekend” in order to accommodate the weekend guests, she laughs. The living room has one of the very first 78 rpm record changers ever made. “Dewey was the only one allowed to touch it, and we would marvel when he would put on Rudy Vallée records.”

Barbara recalls a summer weekend from the 1970s when she invited her “fancy friends from Nashville” up to Elk Lake. By this time, there was a well; however, the pump stopped working. Barbara recalls the guests schlepping buckets of water from the lake to cook beans on the stove.

“They never came back after that!” she laughs.

The Daane family was full of characters and quite resistant to change, says Barbara. The elder Daanes never wanted to change a thing in the cottage, and Dewey was the same way.

The aforementioned Bob Daane talked so fondly of his “Uncle Dewey” over the years, that my husband and I felt like we knew him. One need only step into the cottage to feel Dewey’s presence and that of those who came before him.

And, like Dewey, Barbara doesn’t want to change a thing.

Kathy Belden lives and writes from her home in Canton, Ohio. She spends her summers on the shores of Grand Traverse Bay. Kathy can be reached at kbelden56@gmail.com.

Courtney Kent is one half of The Compass Points Here, a photography and videography company based in Traverse City. thecompasspointshere.com.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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Historical photos courtesy of the Daane Family

I remark to Barbara that if walls could talk, these cottage walls would have quite a story to tell. The walls are actually one of the first things you notice when entering the living room—they resemble particleboard. Barbara says this material was made by a company called Celotex and frequently used in homes of this vintage. Over the years, there was talk of painting or wallpapering, but it never happened. “The family never wanted to change a single thing!” says Barbara.

The Daanes enjoyed sailing, powerboating and swimming; however, “the jet skis annoyed Dewey!” says Barbara. Dewey swam in Elk Lake well into his 90s, and Barbara still loves taking a daily dip. But it wasn’t just water activities that made for summer fun. There was plenty of golf at the nearby Elk Rapids Golf Club, but tennis was Dewey’s passion.

Dewey played tennis every day of his life, Barbara says. “He never had lessons—he was self-taught. He loved it so much. I was a golfer before I met Dewey, but I took up tennis after he came into my life. He was instrumental in having new tennis courts installed in Elk Rapids near the bay to replace the concrete ones.”

Dewey’s tennis trophies are prominently displayed in the living room. Tennis was also a huge part of their Up North social

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inside AUGUST/ SEPTEMBER 2021 NORTHERN

18 8

30

42

features

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18 / THE COCOONING HOUSE

07 / EDITOR’S NOTE

From its dry sauna to the steam shower, a home with a distinctly modern design makes you never want to leave.

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NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2021

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EDITOR’S NOTE

Northern Home & Cottage 20

21

VIRTUAL HOME TOURS

SYNERGY IN STONE

O

ver the past 20 years, as editor of Northern Home & Cottage, I have conducted more than 30 home interviews a year—something like 600 interviews in all.

(Wow, that math blows my mind!) In those decades, I have heard plenty of horror stories about building houses. Egos in the way; tensions between builders and architects; unscrupulous builders and tradespeople who need to be watched all the time. The good news? None of these stories occurred in Northern Michigan. They were all, to a one, stories homeowners have told me about building homes in other regions of the country. And invariably, they tell me the stories to contrast just how incredibly smooth building their Up North home was.

Smooth may be an understatement. The homeowners I have profiled often tell me about how, by the end of the process, they are lifelong friends with their builders and designers. Likewise, they tell stories of synergy that developed between them and the team who built their home—of problem-solving, creativity, skill and old-fashioned integrity and work ethics. I find these stories truly uplifting and often hang up the phone with a lingering smile on my face. I can’t help but think how much better the world would be if we designed, built and problem-solved everything in our lives, communities and world the way most houses are built in Northern Michigan…

The three homes we have featured in this issue are very different styles—modern, industrial and transitional. Yet, as you’ll read, they were all built with this spirit of camaraderie. Just like anything in life, when a project begins harmoniously from the foundation, it shows in the finished product. I think you’ll agree when you read the stories and see the photographs.

Whether you are planning on building or not, these three homes are great armchair reads. If you are planning on building, please check out the resource sections in each article, as well as our many advertisers in this issue—many of whom we have written about in the past and will again in the future (search MyNorth.com for stories on them).

My best to all of you!

Elizabeth Edwards is senior editor of Northern Home & Cottage.

Lissa@traversemagazine.com

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Northern Mood

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»

BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS

Rattan Ottoman Handmade for Sika Design. Available through Ciao Bella!, Petoskey.

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NORTHERN HOME & COTTAGE FEB/MARCH 2021

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1. Olive Throw Made in Italy. Available through Ciao Bella!, Petoskey. $125. ciaobellashop.com 2. Billie Ombre Green Mosaic Tile

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3. Amani Drum Light Woven from strands of abaca—a species of banana native to the Philippines.

Available through HomeWorks Interiors, Traverse City. 19” D x 16” H, $1,499; 28” D x 20” H, $2,099. homeworksinteriors.store 4. Modern Rattan Chair Natural rattan gets a modern twist with an exaggerated traditional cane pattern in this handwoven chair made of a flat version of the palm fiber. We love the extra-sturdy frame.

Available at Ella’s Traverse City (in-store only). $960.

5. Totally Tatami Grasscloth Grasscloth and metallic papers woven and cut into strips before being woven back together. Available through HomeWorks Interiors, Traverse City. $68.95 a yard.

All Wound Up Grasscloth Japanese paper-weave.

Available through HomeWorks Interiors, Traverse City. $54.95 per yard. homeworksinteriors.store

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Chair and throw photos by David Weidner; all other photos provided.

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collections

PRIMAL GRILLING

Wood-fired grills are the rage for modern cooks.

Check out three of the hottest models on the market— Homo erectus would have killed for one of these!

BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS

THIS ROCK STAR-GRILL was designed by Charles Eisendrath, once an international correspondent for Time Magazine who fell in love with Argentinianstyle wood-fired grilling while working there in the 1960s and '70s. After returning to the states, Eisendrath spent years perfecting his version of the grill. His final product had culinary icon James Beard swooning. Today, Eisendrath’s son Benjamin runs the company, and fine restaurants worldwide use Grillworks’ grills. The Grillery model is just the right size for a home patio.

photo by Melisa McKolay

THE GRILLERY,

BY GRILLWORKS

Fuel: Wood and/or charcoal Starts at: $3,575 Purchase: grillworksusa.com Bonus: Made in Northern Michigan

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Grillworks’ Dill Poached Lake Trout 1 4–6 pound whole lake trout, butterflied, head on 1 large bunch of fresh dill fronds Kosher salt 1 teaspoon fresh lemon zest 4 Tablespoons melted butter 1 lemon, halved 2 Tablespoons fresh dill, minced

1. Rinse cavity of fish, pat dry and place on dill fronds skin side down.

Sprinkle the trout’s flesh with sea salt and lemon zest and brush with melted butter. Let fish stand for 5 to 10 minutes.

2. Using apple wood staves, build a medium fire in the grill and burn down for 15 to 20 minutes. Squeeze half a lemon over fish. Transfer dill

fronds to grilling surface and top with fish, skin side down. Roast fish, basting periodically with melted butter, for 15 to 20 minutes, or until flesh just begins to flake. Transfer fish and dill fronds to large platter, and season to taste with salt.

Squeeze second half of lemon over flesh, garnish with minced dill and serve immediately.

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PRIMAL GRILLING SHOKUNIN KAMADO GRILL,

BY KALAMAZOO GOURMET KALAMAZOO GOURMET’S NEWEST GRILL is a twist on the traditional-style Japanese wood-fired ceramic kamado.

Look for the ancient and loved qualities of a kamado, including gentle heat, but with better insulation (maintains 225 degrees for 65 hours on just 12 pounds of charcoal), cross-ventilation for precise control and a little added height so the fire can be up close or well below your food— sear, roast or smoke! Fabricated from stainless steel, the Shokunin also boasts furniture-quality Ipe handles.

Fuel: Wood and/or charcoal Starts at: $6,495 Purchase: kalamazoogourmet.com

photo courtesy of Kalamazoo Gourmet

Bonus: Made in West Michigan

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St. Louis-Style Spare Ribs on Kalamazoo Gourmet’s Shokunin Grill Recipe and Photo by Matthew Eads, Grillseeker

3 to 4 racks St. Louis-cut pork spare ribs Sauce 3 cups ketchup 1/2 cup cider vinegar 1/4 cup yellow mustard 2 Tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 1 Tablespoon onion powder 1 Tablespoon garlic powder 1/2 teaspoon allspice Dry Rub 1/2 cup brown sugar 1/3 cup paprika 1 Tablespoon kosher salt 1 Tablespoon garlic powder 1 Tablespoon onion powder 2 teaspoons chili powder 2 teaspoons black pepper 1 teaspoon dry mustard

^

1. If possible, make your sauce the day before you grill. You can make the sauce the same day as the ribs of course, but the flavors are better after the sauce has set for 24 hours. Add all ingredients to a medium-sized sauce pan. Place over low heat and whisk together until thoroughly combined. Cover and allow sauce to simmer at a very low temperature for an hour, stirring occasionally. Turn off heat, and allow the sauce to cool to room temperature before putting in glass jars and refrigerating.

2. For the ribs, start by setting your Shokunin up for low and slow cooking. Adjust your exhaust vent in order to maintain a cooker temperature of 255°F. For pork spare ribs I recommend a combination of hickory and apple wood chunks.

3. While your grill is coming up to temperature, trim your ribs. Trimming spare ribs is less labor-intensive than trimming a brisket, but requires slightly more labor than trimming a pork shoulder. You’ll notice a somewhat loose piece of meat on the back of the ribs, trim that off.

4. With the ribs trimmed, it’s time to get them seasoned. In a shaker bottle, combine rub ingredients and shake well to mix. Season your ribs liberally starting with the bone side of the ribs, flipping them and then doing the meat side. This allows the meat side, or presentation side, to remain presentable after the rub is applied.

5. With the rub applied, and the temperature in the Shokunin stable at 255°F, place your ribs on the cooking grate and allow them to bathe in that beautiful hickory and apple smoke for two and a half hours. This is where the Shokunin differs from just about every other cooker.

There’s no need to open the grill every hour to spritz in order to ensure the ribs stay moist.

6. After two and a half hours the ribs have taken on some delicious smoke and are starting to look beautiful.

You’ll notice the bones are just barely starting to peek out, but the racks are still pretty firm. Now it’s time to get them tender. Pull the ribs off the grill and close the hood. Adjust the exhaust vent in order to increase grill temperature to 285°F. 7. While the grill is heating up, place each rack of ribs on a double layer of foil and top with a generous amount of warm sauce. Wrap the foil tightly around the ribs.

8. Return to the grill for one hour.

After an hour, the ribs should be just about done. Remove the ribs from the grill and unwrap.

9. Checking the internal temperature of the meat with a reliable meat thermometer should show an internal temperature of about 193°-195°F. You’ll notice now the bones for each rack are very prominent.

10. Glaze each rack with an even layer of sauce and return to the cooker for 10 minutes. This allows the sauce to “set” and become very tacky. Remove ribs from cooker and allow them to rest for 10 minutes. Using a large slicing knife, slice into individual ribs and serve with your favorite BBQ sides.

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PRIMAL GRILLING BIG GREEN EGG ASK LEGIONS OF BIG GREEN EGG FANS and they’ll tell you the Egg isn’t just something for throwing the burgers on. It is to be worshipped. Known far and wide as the original modern version of ancient, dome-shaped ceramic cooking, The Egg can grill, roast or smoke. It comes in seven sizes and includes a variety of custom tables and “nests” (i.e. stands) for creating an outdoor kitchen. The Egg fuels on hardwood charcoal available from The Big Green Egg, Inc. Fuel: Lump charcoal; can mix with wood chunks and chips Starts at: $948, for the large size Find a dealer: Maxbauer Ace Hardware, Traverse City maxace.com

photo courtesy of Big Green Egg

Meyer Ace Hardware, Petoskey acehardware.com

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photo by Ron Dimpflmaier

^

Steak Pizzaiola in the Big Green Egg Grass-fed New York strip steaks (True Aussie Beef and Lamb steaks shown in photo) Big Green Egg Classic Steakhouse Seasoning 2 teaspoons olive oil 5 garlic cloves, chopped 1 sweet onion, chopped 2 bell peppers, sliced ½ teaspoon dried oregano ½ teaspoon dried basil ⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes 3 cups fresh spinach ¼ cup grated parmesan cheese

1. Set the EGG for indirect cooking with a convEGGtor at 275°F; add the cast iron skillet to the EGG to preheat.

2. Season steaks generously on both sides with Big Green Egg Classic Steakhouse Seasoning and place on the EGG. 3. While the steaks are cooking, add 2 teaspoons olive oil and minced garlic into the cast iron skillet. Cook until fragrant. Add onions, peppers, oregano, basil and red pepper flakes to the cast iron skillet. Cook until the veggies are tender. Add tomatoes and spinach, cook, stirring until sauce begins to thicken, 3–5 minutes, then stir in the grated parmesan cheese. Remove from the EGG and set aside.

4. Once the steak reaches 125°F, remove from the EGG. Reset the EGG for direct cooking without a convEGGtor and raise the temperature to 550°F. 5. Sear each side of the steak for 1 minute. Remove the steak from the EGG when the internal temperature reaches 135°F. Let rest for 10 minutes. Serve steaks smothered in pizzaiola sauce.

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house and home

THE COCOONING HOUSE FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION—AND EQUALS RELAXATION—IN THIS PERFECTLY DESIGNED HOME AT THE BASE OF OLD MISSION PENINSULA.

BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS / PHOTOS BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

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n architect’s job can require a level

of diplomacy, a fact that Ray Kendra, a Traverse City architect known for his contemporary/modern design, is well aware. In the case of the yet-to-be-designed Cocooning House, Kendra had to tell his clients that the old cottage on Grand Traverse Bay they hoped to renovate needed to be razed. In Kendra’s judgement, only the foundation and a basement under the garage could be saved. Turns out, they trusted his judgement.

Next on Kendra’s list was to evaluate his clients’ aesthetic—one they’d said leaned toward modern design: But how modern did they really want their house to be? Kendra’s first plan was for a home with a more transitional-styled slanted roof.

Nope, his clients had imagined a thoroughly modern home, and that included a flat roof.

Kendra was delighted. His fondness for modern architecture, he says, begins with the fact that it generally revolves around windows fabricated with huge sheets of glass, offering huge views. “In a traditional

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cottage, you tend to have a bunch of little windows that just don’t offer the same kind of view,” he says.

That is especially important, he adds, in homes situated on water such as this one: “The colors of the bay change over the course of the day. That’s the star of the show in this house,” Kendra says.

His clients agree completely with that philosophy. What’s more, besides big views, they value modern design for its simple and serene flow—a form-follows-function approach. That calm ambiance is especially important to the husband, a neurologist, who needs to decompress after he has been on call, an act he refers to as “cocooning.”

“Spa-like” was another term the couple mentioned often to Kendra to describe their vision.

Kendra took his clients’ cues. A number of thoughtful amenities add to this home’s relaxing vibe, but perhaps the most important is the dry sauna he designed on the lower level. The sauna is directly connected to a shower that leads into the bathroom. No dripping sweat on the floor on your way through to cool off.

“THE COLORS OF THE BAY CHANGE OVER THE COURSE OF THE DAY. THAT’S THE STAR OF THE SHOW IN THIS HOUSE,” KENDRA SAYS. Up a level, on the main floor, the largest standard pane-less window that Pella Windows could supply sets the backdrop. The window is expansive enough to provide full views of some of Traverse City’s greatest attractions, namely, the annual Cherry Festival fireworks over the bay and the semi-annual performances (canceled in 2020 and 2021 due

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to the pandemic) of the U.S. Navy Blue Angels and the U.S. Air Force Thunderbirds.

That view aside, the rest of the living area is a study in serenity with its horizontally shaped contemporary fireplace and wide-planked oak flooring stained a pale, beachy shade. The homeowners purchased all of the furniture for the home on a trip to North Carolina, then Kristi Brubaker of Leelanau Interiors accessorized it, grouped furniture into intimate spaces and outfitted bedrooms and baths with linens and other accoutrements. Brubaker and Kendra often work together. “I finish what Ray designs— making the interiors colorful and comfortable,” Brubaker says.

The living area flows into an open, mostly white kitchen. A butler’s pantry/appliance garage keeps the Cambria Quartz counters sleek and clean, in keeping with the simple feel of the home—and belies the fact that the kitchen is a

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Photography by Beth Singer

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state-of-the-art workspace for the wife, who is an accomplished chef.

A floating stairway, bathed in light from a skylight in the roof and fabricated from glass, steel and Douglas fir treads, winds up to the third and fourth floors. The master suite on the third floor is equipped with a steam shower that rounds out the home’s spa feel. On the fourth level, the stairway

THE COMBINATION OF MATERIALS MAKES THE HOME BLEND INTO THE LANDSCAPE WHILE GIVING IT, AS KENDRA DESCRIBES, “A CLEAN, POLISHED LOOK.” ends in a small space outfitted with a beverage center that opens on to a deck overlooking the bay. Truly, it is the pinnacle of this lovely, perfectly designed home.

The home’s exterior is clad in stone, gray metal and Japanese-style shou sugi ban siding—wood that has been burned to a charcoal and will weather well for years, needing no upkeep. The combination of materials makes the home blend into the landscape while giving it, as Kendra describes, “a clean, polished look.”

Given that the home’s construction was still ongoing when the pandemic lockdown occurred in the spring of 2020, the building process could have been very stressful.

But all players remained calm, including contractor Dave Thompson of LTD Construction, a builder who everyone involved agrees is exceptional. Thompson strapped on his toolbelt and showed up at the job site every day (even many weekends), except during the lockdown. The homeowners marvel at Thompson’s hands-on work ethic, a quality they see as rare for experienced contractors.

The spa, the steam room, the kitchen, the views, the peace that comes from a collaborative building process, all go into making this home feel like a cocoon. And all involved agreed that lockdown or no, it’s a home that you just plain never want to leave.

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resources Architect Ray Kendra, Environment Architects env-arch.com General Contractor, Builder David Thompson, LTD Construction Inc. 231.275.7270 Interior Design Kristi Brubaker, Leelanau Interiors leelanauinteriors.com Lumber, Doors, Trim & Siding Honor Building Supply honorbldgsupply.com

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house and home

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LONE STAR ON THE BLUFF A TEXAS COUPLE WORKS WITH AN EXTRAORDINARY TEAM OF DESIGNERS, BUILDERS AND ARTISANS TO CREATE AN EQUALLY EXTRAORDINARY HOME IN HARBOR SPRINGS.

BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS / PHOTOS BY CERYS FRYCZYNSKI

t was cold, rainy and the trees were already bare on the October weekend that these homeowners first visited Harbor Springs—hardly auspicious weather for falling in love with the Lake Michigan harbor town. The couple, who live in Texas, had come for a visit at the behest of friends who have summered in Harbor Springs for years. Dreary as the weather was, boats still bobbed in the harbor and the petite downtown’s white-clapboard Victorianera architecture shone through the gray. “We saw something really special there,” the homeowner says.

So special that six months later they purchased an old cottage up on the town’s famous East Bluff—a gracious, leafy neighborhood with views of rooftops, church steeples and beautiful Little Traverse Bay. The couple’s initial plan was to remodel the old cottage—among other renovations, they were looking to enlarge their front porch. Doing their due diligence, they set up interviews with four architects/designers, including residential designer Fred Ball, whom they eventually hired.

Before meeting with Ball, they’d browsed photos of his previous projects on his website and came away feeling, “that Fred could design our home to fit into the neighborhood,” the homeowner says.

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BUT LOOK CLOSELY AND YOU SEE THE GENIUS— AND WHAT MILLER SAYS ARE THE DETAILS THAT MAKE BALL’S DESIGNS ONE-OF-A-KIND. “THIS HOUSE IS AN ABSOLUTE PIECE OF ART, NOT JUST ANOTHER HOUSE,” MILLER SAYS. “EVERY DETAIL IS THOUGHT-OUT AND DIFFERENT AND UNIQUE.” At their first meeting, Ball told them, as had the other three architects, that the cottage needed to be torn down. Then he pulled out his blank yellow legal pad for notes and started listening to what the couple really wanted in their new home. That conversation was the beginning of a synergy that resulted in this spectacular house that graciously steps out of the design-box in a number of ways.

Ball credits the homeowners who wanted both a home that fit the neighborhood and also something edgy and so were open to his ideas.

Likewise, he credits the team of artisans who turned his ideas into form— including builder Chris Miller and his crew from mPn (Miller, Poineau and Naumes), metal fabricator Greg Melms (whom the homeowners knew previously and brought up from Ohio for the project), mason Jim Temple of Emmet Masonry, interior designer Kelly Konoske of Cottage Company and landscape architect Maureen Parker of Common Ground Landscapes.

The house that resulted from this collaboration, is, at first glance, a transitional take on a historic, coastal shingle-style home. With its natural stone foundation, cedar lap siding, cedar shake roof, paned windows and its front porch that juts out from the front of the home like an embrace, it

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fits beautifully into the harbor town.

But look closely and you see the genius—and what Miller says are the details that make Ball’s designs oneof-a-kind. “This house is an absolute piece of art, not just another house,” Miller says. “Every detail is thought out, different and unique.”

On the exterior, for instance, the walls around the upper story windows flare out ever so and are framed by mPn custom-crafted corbels. The small panes at the top of many of the windows frame a stainless-steel pyramid medallion fabricated by Melms—a motif that is also embedded into the railing in the deck above the porch. Melms also fabricated several stainless-steel lone star medallions, nods to the homeowners’ home state, to sprinkle throughout

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BALL LIKES TO SAY, “THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAILS.” ALTHOUGH IN THIS HOME’S CASE, THE DETAILS ARE THE ANGELS THAT CARRY THE DESIGN. the home, including above the main entry to the house.

The porch columns are generous and pyramid-shaped—more welcoming than traditional vertical columns.

The soft curve of the porch is echoed in a slight outward bow of an adjacent wall and bay window, and two curved walls of cedar lap frame the gable vent, softening its functionality with visual interest. Ball likes to say, “the devil is in the details.” Although in this home’s case, the details are the angels that carry the design.

Inside, the home is first and foremost about the views of the charming town below the bluff and Little Traverse Bay. “The house is not deep, so that every room in the home has a view of the bay,” the homeowner says. Beyond the views, however, Ball worked to bring the same spirit of detail into the interior as can be found on the exterior. For instance, there is almost no drywall in the entire home, instead, the walls and coffered ceilings are paneled in nickelgrooved poplar, painted dove white.

The walls are topped in extravagantly deep, beveled crown molding. The columns that divide the dining room and kitchen echo the shapes of the front porch columns.

Like everything else in this home, the stairway is exceptional. Ball designed cone-shaped stairway newel posts and had Melms make stainless steel caps for them engraved with lone stars. Then, with the homeowners' enthusiastic support, he had Melms make stainless bands that wrap around each baluster. “I call the stainless accents the home’s jewelry,” Ball says.

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The kitchen befits the homeowner, who is a fabulous cook. The Wolf range is topped with a custom stainless hood by Melms, who also designed the kitchen’s focal point, a magnificent pot rack. A covered, flagstone patio just outside the kitchen houses a Rumford fireplace that the homeowner uses for outdoor cooking.

Interior designer Kelly Konoske worked closely with the homeowners to outfit the rooms with an attention to detail worthy of the structure that reflects their tastes, including art collected on their travels. “Kelly decorated the entire house top to bottom,” the homeowner says. “She got me right away.” Konoske kept the color palette neutral but added dimension by playing off the geometry of shapes—a handsome square walnut coffee table with flared wedged-shape legs sits in the middle of the living

area and directly under a circular chandelier, for instance.

The soft, linen-like furniture upholstery is all performance fabric. A fact that the homeowner really didn’t trust until she spilled an entire glass of red on a white chair. “And every bit came out,” she says.

The home is rounded out with a stunning wine room, workout space and steam shower on the lower level. A serene master suite with a commanding view shares the second floor with a guest room—where the barrel-shaped, cypress-clad ceiling makes a memorable impression.

By all accounts, the building of the home was pure joy for the homeowners and their creative team. “A home like this pulls the capabilities and talents of our team to the forefront,” says Miller. “When we get to work with something that Fred designs, our skills really shine.”

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house and home

ELEVATED COLLABORATION WORKING CLOSELY WITH A TALENTED DESIGN-AND-BUILD TEAM, A CREATIVE COUPLE TURNS AN EMPTY SHELL OVER TRAVERSE CITY’S FRONT STREET INTO AN URBAN LOFT WITH A MUSICAL SOUL.

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2016, with their three children grown, joe karbowski and Angela Josephine were ready to downsize.

Joe, CTO of a software company, travels all over the world, and with their children out of the house, Angela, a singer/songwriter/artist, looked forward to accompanying him. With their new life sketched out in their minds, the couple put their spacious home on the outskirts of Traverse City up for sale and began looking at condos closer to downtown.

Their search ended when they toured a loft in the 101 North Park Building on Front and Park streets. At the time, the loft was an empty shell— except for a bank of handsome black-framed NanaWall windows that opened wide to flood the room with light and let in a mélange of scents, sights and sounds from the bustling street below.

“We came up here and saw these windows—we hadn’t seen anything like this,” Angela says. From that moment on, the couple was captivated, envisioning all that living above downtown Traverse City could offer—walking to restaurants, to the beach and even watching the city’s signature Cherry Festival and holiday parades from the comfort of their own home.

101 North Park, developed by Thom and Nick Darga of DargaWorks, Inc., successfully transformed this corner in the heart of Traverse City from an ugly brownfield site (contaminated decades ago by a gas station and car repair shop) into a showpiece for urban living with businesses, including Grand Traverse Pie Company, on the street level. Sophisticated as the building is, Joe and Angela soon learned that the Dargas run their company with small-town quality and service.

Case in point: When the couple worried that the 1,500-square-foot loft wasn’t quite large enough for their needs, the Dargas offered to cut a hole in the floor and create a 250-square-foot downstairs room out of a space that had been a part of their DargaWorks office. The offer sealed the deal—Traverse City’s Ace Welding created a circular staircase down to the lower level from the n

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loft and, voila, Angela had a light-filled art studio overlooking Front Street.

The Dargas also did another huge favor for the couple: They introduced them to Architect Peter Smith of the Traverse City-based firm Designsmiths—and thus began a very special synergy between homeowners, architect and builders. “Both Joe and I thrive on working with small teams of creatives toward an end goal,” Angela says. “We’ve collaborated with people here in Michigan and Belfast on music videos, and in

“BOTH JOE AND I THRIVE ON WORKING WITH SMALL TEAMS OF CREATIVES TOWARD AN END GOAL,” ANGELA SAYS. Nashville and locally for albums. Maybe that is why the buildout process was so appealing—because of the similarity to those things.

“By way of example, when I was ready to record a new body of songs in 2016, I chose Michigan producer Chris Bathgate because I knew Chris would challenge me while still honoring the integrity of the art, bringing something to the project that I could not on my own,” Angela continues. “In the case of our loft, that person would be Peter from Designsmiths. We fell in love with the possibility of

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the space, came to Peter with our hopes and dreams (design images, material preferences, etc.) and from there, the relationship grew organically.”

Smith began by listening carefully to the couple’s ideas of how they wanted to use the space as well as what drew them to the condo. Learning that the main draw of the condo was the long bank of windows, the challenge became how to carve out space for a bedroom and music studio without diminishing the expansive feel of the space. Grateful that, as Smith says, the couple was willing to “blur the lines” between room functions, the finished loft can be converted from one open space into three separate rooms. On one end of the condo, stacking metal doors in the master suite can close off the room from the open living/kitchen/ dining space. Angela's music studio and a bathroom are at the other end, set off from the great room by a sealed metal and paned-glass door fabricated by Ace Welding. With the doors open, the room becomes a part of the great room.

Closed off, it can become a guest bedroom.

Smith designed Angela’s baby grand piano right into the floor plan, placing it between the dining and living area as an island of separation. The sleek galley kitchen that faces

the dining area is backed by an ingenious steel window that looks into the butler's pantry. The butler’s pantry neatly houses the refrigerator (the galley kitchen is outfitted with refrigerator drawers), storage cabinets and the washer and dryer. In lieu of a wall between the pantry and the kitchen, Smith designed a black-paned window (also fabricated by Ace Welding) that lets light into the pantry from the street side and adds visual interest to the galley kitchen.

High ceilings over the master suite and living areas allowed Smith to expose the mechanicals—signatures of an urban loft. Likewise, he used the loft’s lower ceilings over the grand piano and dining area to add intimacy.

The surface elements play off this yin and yang of urban and cozy—white oak floors and denim-blue cabinets contrast with stainless steel and cast concrete countertops.

It all works together seamlessly to sing a new song for Traverse City living: Urban and sophisticated while staying true to the warmth of Up North living. As Angela says: “With the right team, a kind of magic happens that supersedes the challenges and complexities, and in fact, incorporates those to make something remarkable.”

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resources Builder DargaWorks, Inc. dargaworks.com Architect Designsmiths designsmiths.us Staircase, Metal Windows & Door Ace Welding aceweldingtc.com Kitchen Cabinets Wolverine Cabinet Co. wolverinecabinet.com Flooring Carpet Galleria carpetgalleria.com

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T he Cu l i nary North local cuisine . drinks . restaurant guide

D I N I N G OUT

UNDER ONE ROOF

by RACHEL SOULLIERE

Pizza or seafood? The choice is yours at Nittolo’s in Lake Leelanau, where two restaurant concepts are served up in one building.

photo by Dave Weidner

H

ow can i get chilean sea bass and pizza on the same menu?” was the first question Eric Nittolo asked himself as he prepared to open a new restaurant. The simple conclusion he came to? You can’t—but that didn’t stop him from dreaming of ways he could fit his 16 years of diverse culinary experience under one roof. He found his answer in the perfect building in the heart of Leelanau County; from there, Nittolo’s Seafood & Social and Nittolo’s Pizza were born.

Eric was ready to open a restaurant and his investor was eager to show him the Lake Leelanau building that had previously housed Bella Fortuna. After the tour, Eric was sold on the location and the idea of two distinct restaurants under one roof.

Open year-round, Nittolo’s Pizza offers craft, woodfired pies with the freshest, pre-selected toppings (Goodbye, build-your-own pizza!), while Seafood & Social (open daily April–October; weekends only through December with indoor and outdoor seating) has a curated, pre fixe menu—including never-frozen seafood ordered from point of capture (like Eric’s favorite neoclassical Japanese tuna) and thoughtfully sourced meats such as local lamb and Wagyu beef.

Unlike other restaurants, Nittolo’s is not concerned about quickly flipping tables. When you make a reservation, you’re actually buying your table for the entire

night—a concept Eric brought back from Warsaw, Poland, where he sat down at an eatery at 4:30 p.m. and was still enjoying his meal, company and wine well past 9 p.m.

“Between the 9,000 pizza orders in three months and fully booked Seafood & Social reservations, I know we have something special here,” Eric says. “Lake Leelanau has welcomed us with open arms and we’re proud to provide a dining experience that focuses on community, relationships, staying true to ourselves and, most importantly, great food.”

104 Main St., Lake Leelanau, 231.994.2400 nittolospizza.com; nittoloseafoodandsocial.com

+

For more local restaurants, recipes and dining ideas, visit MyNorth.com and click on Food & Drink.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

0821_TVM_culinary north.indd 45

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7/5/21 4:57 PM

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T R AV E R S E / AU G U S T 2 0 2 1

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7/8/21 4:09 PM

T he Cu l i nary North Grab & Go ON THE MOVE IN MARQUETTE

by STACEY BRUGEMAN

A ready-made meal and the best place to take it.

GRAB:

231 West Patisserie When 231 West Patisserie first opened on Marquette’s main drag in January 2020, regulars were quick to celebrate their macarons, pain au chocolat and Velodrome coffee. We’re fans of all that and more—like the pastry shop’s ready-to-go boxed lunches, especially the Prosciutto & Parmesan Baguette ($14). A house-baked French baguette comes schmeared with salted butter, house-made fig spread and shallot jam, and layered with thin slices of prosciutto and parmesan cheese. It’s flavorful but— akin to a good jambon beurre—not overloaded. When ordered as a boxed lunch, the sandwich comes with either a soup or salad as well as your choice of treat. Think lemon fennel shortbread or a sable cookie with an Earl Grey ganache. This summer, add an iced espresso and tonic to cool off.

231west.revelup.com/weborder 231 W. Washington St., Marquette

At 231 West, boxed lunches come with one of these sammies, soup or salad and a treat.

GO:

Dead River Falls

JUST A BITE The Greenberg Special beloved by generations of guests and set on the holy waters,

Gates Au Sable Lodge took home first place for Red Hot Best 2021 Fishing Charter in the Kalkaska, Gaylord and Grayling region. But it’s not just fishers who flock here. The onsite restaurant, which has a pick-up window for to-go meals on the river, lures in non-fishers, too, with from-scratch breakfast, lunch and dinner. Lodge owner Josh Greenberg, is, for good reason, partial to the Greenberg Special. The hearty breakfast plate is loaded with chorizo sausage, pico de gallo, two eggs any style, your choice of toast and what’s known as Au Sable hash browns—cheddar cheese, green onions and shredded potatoes that morphs into delish crusted hash browns. gateslodge.com –C.S.

Zoom sesh, those who are off the clock should take one of the Patisserie's readyto-go boxed lunches just 15 minutes northwest of town to Dead River Falls.

“It’s a popular jumping spot for a lot of the ‘kids,’” says 231 West’s Matthew Beardsley. For the rest of us, the intermediate hiking trail connects a series of three falls, some of the most beautiful in the region.

Take Wright Street out of town and head north on Forestville Road. Follow Forestville until after it crosses the river and loops back around to the south, where you will find parking near a powerhouse. The trail is 1.5 miles long—3 miles, out and back—if you want to see all of the falls.

Wear your hiking boots. While the trail begins on an access road, it ultimately includes a modest scramble and can be slippery after rain.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

0821_TVM_culinary north.indd 47

photo courtesy of 231 West Patisserie

While the bright, modern dining room at 231 West is a perfectly lovely backdrop for your next

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The Culinary North

GUIDE R E S T A U R A N T

| WATER VIEW | RED HOT BEST RESTAURANT 2021 BLD | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER BAR | ALCOHOL SERVED $ | ENTRÉES INDER $10 $$ | $10-20 $$$ | ABOVE $20

PETOSKEY & MACKINAC STRAITS ALANSON/BAY HARBOR/CHEBOYGAN/ INDIAN RIVER/ODEN Black Mountain Lodge Hikers on Black Mountain love set-

tling in post-walkabout for the glorious view of East Twin Lake and freshly prepared trout, perch, quail, lobster and homemade bread with honey-walnut butter. 10621 TWIN LAKES RD., CHEBOY-

GAN, 231.625.9322 D • BAR • $$-$$$ •

Dutch Oven Bakery French toast, farmer’s omelette stratas and

The Chuckwagon Mackinac Island’s quintessential diner. 7400 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0019 BL • $-$$

The Doghouse Hot dogs, nachos, chips and more. Picnic tables

under big umbrellas. Located at Windermere Point on the Straits of Mackinac. 7498 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.6586 LD • $

Feedbag Donuts made daily. Hot dogs, brats and more. Located near the Surrey Hills Carriage Museum. 7531 3RD ST., MACKINAC

Sushi Grand Mackinac Island’s first and only sushi restaurant opens this year. 1547 CADOTTE AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3331

BLD • BAR • $$$ •

Tea Room at Fort Mackinac Refreshments with a view of the harbor and Straits of Mackinac. INSIDE FORT MACKINAC, MACKI-

lodge on the Cheboygan River near Mullett Lake specializes in steaks and seafood. Dock space and overnight slips. 8131

BEEBE RD., CHEBOYGAN, 231.625.2919 LD • BAR • $-$$ •

Knot Just a Bar Contemporary sports and oyster bar perched on

the Bay Harbor marina. 820 FRONT ST., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.2770

LD • BAR $$-$$$ •

Mulligan’s Inviting pub with steamed littleneck clams, shrimptopped burgers and pasta. 320 NORTH MAIN ST., CHEBOYGAN, 231.627.2459 LD • BAR • $–$$

Original Pancake House Crêpes, waffles, pancakes, om-

elettes, egg specialties. 4165 MAIN ST., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.9989

LD • BAR • $-$$

The Queens Head Wine pub serving wine, spirits and draft

beer along with delectable pub fare. 250 N. HURON ST., CHEBOY-

GAN, 231.445.7101 LD • BAR $

Vintage Chophouse/Wine Bar All-American steakhouse flavored with retro sophistication. INN AT BAY HARBOR AUTOGRAPH

EXT. 671 LD •BAR • $$-$$$

Great Turtle Brewery & Distillery Opened in 2020 serving signature beers from Right Brain Brewery and private-label spirits from Les Cheneaux Distillery along with burgers, flatbreads and more. 7452 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0260 LD • BAR • $$

NAC ISLAND, 906.847.6327 BL • BAR • $ •

LD • BAR • $$

Huron Street Pub & Grill Classic pub food. 7304 MAIN ST.,

that offers casual fine dining, extensive wine list and duck pin bowling. 8655 CUDAHY CIR., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3699 LD •

Island House 1852 Grill Room—Prime rib, chicken, seafood, veal. Ice House BBQ—casual dining, burgers, gourmet

Audie’s Chippewa Room—Whitefish prepared six ways by

MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8255 LD • BAR • $-$$

sandwiches, sweet potato fries and creative martinis. 6966 MAIN

906.847.8100 LD • $

Jockey Club at the Grand Stand Located on the first tee

of The Jewel golf course. Sandwiches, salads, full dinner menu.

1874 CADOTTE AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.9212 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

NAC ISLAND, 906.847.3355 LD • BAR • $$

Nonna Lisa’s Italian Ristorante Stromboli, chicken parmesan, rosemary salmon, Nutella pizza. 312 S. HURON, MACKINAW Scalawags Whitefish & Chips Family restaurant with a nautical atmosphere features local whitefish, chowder and, of course, chips. 226 E. CENTRAL AVE., MACKINAW CITY, 231.436.7777

Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary surprises including pho. 215 E. LAKE ST. PETOSKEY, 231.753.2221

taps on the island. 7463 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.9911 LD • BAR • $-$$ •

Mighty Mac Hamburgers Breakfast sandwiches, burgers,

hot dogs, chicken sandwiches and more. Indoor seating or carryout. 7463 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8039 LD • $

ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.9901 LD • $

Murray Hotel Breakfast buffet of scrambled eggs, home-style LAND, 855.696.8772 B • $

Cannonball Oasis Burgers, sandwiches, pizza, ice cream,

Mustang Lounge Traditional bar grub, burgers, dogs, pizza

0821_TVM_culinary north.indd 48

CITY, 231.436.5514 LD • $-$$

Mary’s Bistro Well-rounded menu of bistro fare and the most

7383 MARKET ST., MACKINAC ISLAND $

made to order. Dine in or carry out. Located in Murray Hotel’s lobby. 7260 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 855.696.8772 LD • $

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seasonally with fresh fish, roast pork and beef, sky-high pies, and other wholesome family fare. 301 LOUVIGNEY ST., MACKINAW

CROSS VILLAGE/HARBOR SPRINGS/ PELLSTON/PETOSKEY

Amigo Burrito Mexican Grill Burritos, tacos and quesadillas

bar. Regional menu: whitefish, filet mignon and seafood. 7485

Darrow’s Family Restaurant '50s-era classic eatery open

Lucky Bean Coffeehouse Fresh pastries and coffee all day.

MACKINAC ISLAND & MACKINAW CITY

MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND 906.847.3321 BLD • BAR • $$$ •

231.436.5744

LD • BAR • $-$$

$-$$ Round Island Kitchen—Burgers and sandwiches. LD • BAR • $-$$ Chianti—upscale, affordable Italian. D • BAR • $$-$$$ Boxwood Coffeeshop & Cafe—lattes, croissants, wine and grab-and-go food. BLD • BAR • $$ 1 LAKESHORE DRIVE, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3312

Carriage House at Hotel Iroquois Old-World charm, piano

Chef Nicklaus Jaggi along with seasonal Michigan fare. D • BAR • $$ The Family Room—Northwoodsy ambience, Formica tabletops. BLD • BAR • $$ 314 N. NICOLET ST., MACKINAW CITY,

The Lawn at Stonecliffe A fast casual eatery located at The Inn at Stonecliffe. Some indoor seating and beautiful outdoor seating with views of Mackinac Bridge. 8593 CUDAHY CIR., MACKI-

906.847.3542 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

Vivio’s Northwood Inn Locals love this cozy, rustic, wildlife-

fried pickles and more. Located at historic British Landing. 7641

BAR • $$$

CITY, 231.436.7901 LD • BAR • $-$$

Mission Point Resort Bistro on the Greens—LD • BAR •

BRITISH LANDING RD., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0932 LD • $

Woods Restaurant Elegant mansion in the island’s interior

Kingston Kitchen at the Village Inn Traditional American fare with Jamaican inspiration. 1384 HOBAN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND,

Millie’s on Main Charming soda fountain and grill. 7294 MAIN

4531 S. STRAITS HWY., INDIAN RIVER, 231.238.9471 LD • BAR • $-$$

Yankee Rebel Tavern Warm, casual restaurant highlighting updated renditions of American culinary classics in a rustic, colonial setting. 1493 ASTOR ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.6249

Horn’s Gaslight Bar Southwestern cuisine. 7300 MAIN ST.,

MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.6154 LD • BAR • $

COLLECTION, 3600 VILLAGE, HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051 LD • BAR • $-$$$

decorated log cabin with Italian cuisine and specialty pizzas.

• BAR • $-$$

dresses or pantsuits for ladies, for full breakfast, lunch buffet and five-course dinner. 286 GRAND AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3331

Island Slice Pizzeria, bakery and ice cream shop. Located at the Horse Corral Mall. 7248 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND,

Hack-Ma-Tack Inn Classic 1894-era hunting and fishing

906.847.4066 LD •BAR • $-$$

Grand Hotel Main Dining Room—coat and tie for gentlemen,

music and televisions. 1547 CADOTTE AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3772 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

The Greenside Grille at Indian River Golf Club Serving a BAR • $–$$$

Smokey Jose's Waterside restaurant where BBQ and bourbon meet tacos & tequila. 7263 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND,

The Gate House Casual inside and outside eating with live

ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3347 LD • BAR • $$

complete menu and Happy Hour offerings overlooking the 9th hole. 3301 CHIPPEWA BEACH RD., INDIAN RIVER, 231.238.8515 LD •

MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3341 BLD • BAR • $$ •

Seabiscuit Café Cozy exposed-brick walled pub in a restored 1880s bank building. Sip a brew and dine on a wonderfully eclectic menu. 7337 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3611 LD

ISLAND, 906.847.3593 BL • $

sandwiches on famous homemade bread. 7611 US-31, ALANSON,

231.548.2231 BL • $

The Pink Pony Bar & Grill The island’s entertainment oasis—loud, bustling, with pastas and steaks. 7221 MAIN ST.,

potatoes, sausage, bacon and more. 7260 MAIN ST., MACKINAC IS-

LD • BAR • $$

The Bistro Local favorite for saucer-sized homemade pancakes,

home-cooked comfort food and soups like carrot bisque and chicken ’n’ dumpling. 1900 US-31, PETOSKEY, 231.347.5583 BL • $

Boyne Highlands Main Dining Room—Casual American with Scottish influences. Focus on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients.

Seminole Pub. 600 HIGHLANDS DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.3000 BLD • BAR • $–$$

Chandler’s Dining inside or on the patio offers two ways to

savor this eatery’s upscale menu. 215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BEHIND SYMONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981 LD • BAR • $$-$$$ City Park Grill Hemingway drank at the massive mahogany

bar in this casual spot. Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish, and live entertainment. 432 E.

LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101 LD • BAR • $$

Cormack’s Deli Award-winning deli featuring fabulous

sandwiches, soups and BBQ. 2569 CHARLEVOIX AVE., PETOSKEY,

and an array of great fried munchies. 1485 ASTOR ST., MACKINAC

231.347.7570 BL • $

Pancake House Breakfast sandwiches, omelettes, Plath

Dam Site Inn With views of the Maple River, this classic family dining establishment offers a bit of everything plus all-you-caneat chicken dinners. 6705 WOODLAND RD., PELLSTON, 231.539.8851

ISLAND, 906.847.9916 BL • BAR • $-$$

smoked meats, waffles, pancakes, deli sandwiches and more.

7245 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3829 BL • $

D • BAR • $$-$$$

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The Culinary North Douglas Lake Bar & Steakhouse Up North ambience, two

Side Door Saloon Excellent sandwiches, quesadillas, steak, whitefish and pastas. 1200 N. US-31, PETOSKEY, 231.347.9291 LD

D • BAR • $$$

• BAR • $

231.409.7088 LD • BAR • $-$$

Small Batch Quiche, inventive breakfast and lunch sand-

Dockside Burgers, beer and sunsets on Torch Lake. 6340 OLD

fireplaces and a view of the lake pair with big steaks, whitefish, ribs and lamb. 11001 DOUGLAS LAKE RD., PELLSTON, 231.539.8588

Duffy’s Garage and Grille Pasta, burgers, inventive pizzas.

317 E. LAKE ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3663 LD • BAR • $$

The Garden Café Farm-to-plate experience in a historic barn set on a working farm at Pond Hill Farm. Wine tasting from the on-site vineyard. 5699 S. LAKE SHORE DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.3276 L • LIGHT D • BAR • $

Hoppies Landing Pizzas, grinders, nachos, local fish, specialty

brews, beautiful views from the Observation Lounge. Pellston Regional Airport. 1395 US-31, PELLSTON, 231.539.8900 LD • BAR • $-$$

wiches in a creative atmosphere. ​340 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4686 BL • $

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with a big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 231347.2771 BLD • $$-$$$ Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with a wraparound

front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. 100 LEWIS ST.,

PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000 LD • BAR • $$–$$$

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room—fresh

Corner Bistro French-inspired small plates, classic cocktails, wine, beer, Sunday brunch. 102 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE,

TORCH LAKE DR., BELLAIRE, 231.377.7777 LD • BAR • $-$$ •

Friske Orchards Cafe Cheerful roadside restaurant features

farm-fresh breakfasts, homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, and a bakery. 10743 US-31 S., ATWOOD, 231.599.2604 BL • $

Lake Street Pub American pub with outdoor patio and firepit, Bier mac ‘n’ cheese, cocktails, 26 beers on tap. 202 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6031 LD • $

Lunch Box Good home cooking and breakfast all the time. 106 E. CAYUGA ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6678 BL • $

seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS,

Mico's Torch Riviera The best of Italian and American food.

231.526.6201

12899 CHERRY AVE. RAPID CITY, 231.322.4100 LD • BAR • $$

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries like lemon raspberry bars, banana caramel flan. 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 231.439.9250 BL • $

Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito

The Muffin Tin Brain-bendingly good muffins, scones and

PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572 LD • BAR • $-$$

Pelican's Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sandwiches,

Legs Inn Timber and driftwood landmark set on a bluff above Lake Michigan that has been serving Polish and American specialties for the better part of a century. 6425 LAKE SHORE

Teddy Griffin’s Roadhouse Casual spot to grab ribs, steak or fresh fish after golf or skiing and catch the game on TV.

Jose’s Authentic taqueria with made-to-order Mex. 309 PETOSKEY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3299 LD • $

DR. (M-119), CROSS VILLAGE, 231.526.2281 LD • BAR • $$

Mim’s Mediterranean Grill A sunny hangout with home-

made falafel, kebabs, spinach pie, saganaki and other Greek delights. 1823 US-31 NORTH, PETOSKEY, 231.348.9994 LD • $-$$

pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. 422 E. MITCHELL ST.,

50 HIGHLAND PIKE RD., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.7805 D • BAR • $$

lunch too. 9110 HELENA RD., ALDEN, 231.676.2040 BL • $

salads and homemade desserts. 5085 SHANTY CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000 D • BAR $-$$

Provisions Wine Lounge Sommelier curated wines by the

Terrace Inn Planked whitefish and housemade desserts in a

glass and bottle, classic cocktails, Michigan craft beer and small plates. 123 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.2151 LD • BAR • $$

• BAR • $$

Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. 117 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.0049 LD • BAR • $$

Victorian setting. 1549 GLENDALE AVE., PETOSKEY, 231.347.2410 D

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic

Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh pea-

noodles, curries and salads. 433 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY,

ELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801 LD • BAR • $-$$

Turkey’s Cafe & Pizzeria Special omelettes, bagels, French

Stiggs Brewery Hand-crafted brews, from-scratch food like whitefish cakes, bourbon chicken sandwich, top sirloin wagyu steak. 112 S. PARK ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6100 LD • BAR $-$$

PELLSTON, 231.539.8528 LD • BAR • $-$$

HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6041 BLD • BAR • $-$$

Nancy Kelly's Restaurant Fine dining with a flair. Chef-

Vernales Restaurant Chop house, sports bar and wine bar

The Strand at Sommerset Pointe Fresh fish and locally sourced ingredients. Enjoy a breathtaking view of Sommerset Pointe Marina and Lake Charlevoix while you dine. 00970 MA-

US-31, PELLSTON, 231.539.7100 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

• BAR • $-$$$

Shanty Creek Resort Lakeview—Innovative regional cui-

The New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes

Villa Ristorante Italiano Chianti bottles hang from stucco

nuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. 426 E. MITCHMoose Jaw Junction Famous for fish, burgers, Mexican food, pizza and your favorite beverages. 966 W. VAN RD.,

prepared gourmet food. Crafted cocktails and a full bar. 230 N.

like heaven. 101 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904 D •

BAR • $$-$$$

Odawa Casino Resort Sage—Sumptuous fine dining with curried grilled lamb loin, salmon saltimbocca, seared scallops and an extensive wine list. 1760 LEARS RD., PETOSKEY, 877.442.6464 D • BAR • $$-$$$

231.487.9900 LD • $-$$

toast, burgers, pizzas, calzones, and sandwiches—served by friendly folks in a quaint 110-year-old building. 250 E. MAIN ST., with patio dining. 3018 M-119, HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4777 LD

walls and authentic handmade pasta, osso buco and hand-rolled cannoli star. 887 SPRING ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440 D • BAR • $$-$$$

sine at Shanty Creek Resort. Breakfast, lunch & dinner; The River Bistro—Breakfast buffet, sandwiches, pizzas and 45 regional beers on tap; Arnie’s at the Summit—Breakfast, lunch, (spring-fall); Ivan’s Mountainside Grill—Schuss Village-Pub food. 1 SHANTY CREEK RD. (M-88), BELLAIRE, 800.678.4111 BLD •

Willow Inspired farm-to-table modern American cuisine with

BAR • $$ •

SPRINGS, 231.412.6032 D • BAR • $$-$$$

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine

global wine and craft cocktail bar. 129 EAST BAY ST., HARBOR

Old World Cafe European-style breakfast and lunch. 6352 N. LAKESHORE DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6992 BL • $$

RINA DR., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.9900 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store. 121 N. BRIDGE

ST., BELLAIRE, 231.498.2300 LD • BAR • $-$$

CHARLEVOIX & CHAIN OF LAKES

Terrain Restaurant Honest yet ambitious contemporary

dining, outdoor seating and an evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour. 321 BAY ST., PETO-

ALDEN/ATWOOD/BELLAIRE/BOYNE COUNTRY/ RAPID CITY/WALLOON

ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7301 D • BAR • $$

The Paper Station Fresh, relaxed and inventive foods in-

pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more. Over 20 craft beers on tap and signature cocktails. 4069 M-75, WALLOON LAKE,

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale

SKEY, 231.348.3321 LD • BAR • $$-$$$ •

cluding five signature s’mores. 145 E. MAIN ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4680 LD • BAR • $$

Pierson’s Grille & Spirits Ribs, whitefish, pizza, burgers and

other staples of life. 130 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.2967

BLD • BAR • $-$$$

Pour Public House Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads,

soups, bruschetta. 422 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9800 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

Roast & Toast Hip coffeehouse with daily house-made soups,

bread, bakery items and salads. On-site coffee roasting. A consistent MyNorth Red Hot Best winner. 309 E. LAKE ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.7767 BLD • $

Rusty Saw North Traditional barbecue. 3459 US31, BRUTUS,

Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet 231.535.6000 LD • BAR • $-$$$

Toonies Family restaurant serving fresh-cut steaks, local fish, ribs and some of the biggest pancakes in the north. 216 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.8513 BLD • BAR • $-$$

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a

freshest ingredients Northern Michigan has to offer whenever possible. 02911 BOYNE CITY RD., BOYNE CITY. 231.582.3341 D • BAR

newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE VILLAGE, 231.535.2999 D • BAR • $$-$$$ •

Boyne City Taproom Craft beer, wood-fired pizzas, wraps, burgers. 220 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.459.4487 LD • BAR •

CENTRAL LAKE/CHARLEVOIX/ EAST JORDAN/ELLSWORTH

Bella Vita Casual fine dining Italian restaurant that utilizes the

• $$-$$$

$-$$

Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge—

Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern— American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$

231.529.6574 LD • $$

1 BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS 855.688.7024

Sam’s Graces Café & Bakery Artisanal bakery and brick

Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics.

oven pizzeria. 324 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.489.8278 BL • $

American food with a focus on local ingredients. 213 N. BRIDGE

The Blue Pelican A vintage 1924 inn, home to a genteel front

porch, Carolina-style pulled pork, steaks, seafood and a blend of Down South and Up North hospitality. 2535 M-88, CENTRAL LAKE, 231.544.2583 D • BAR • $$

Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beer-friendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. 202 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466 LD • BAR • $-$$ •

1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800 BLD • BAR • $-$$ •

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The Culinary North The Cantina Tacos and tequila with indoor and outdoor seating.

Live entertainment. 101 VAN PELT PLACE, CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3612

Cellar 152 Gourmet meals to take out or eat in, at a wine

LEELANAU COUNTY

LD • BAR • $-$$

• BAR • $-$$

Charlevoix Pizza Company Scratch-made dough, fresh in-

Chef Charles’ Culinary Institute of America-trained Chef

9 Bean Rows Bakery Artisan bakery and farmstead known for French-style breads, croissants and assorted pastries. 9000 E.

gredients, golden crust, prepared daily. Plus, cheesy bread and wings. 311 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6300 LD • $-$$

bar on the Elk River. 152 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9000 BLD

Charles Egeler makes gourmet pizzas, Ligurian-style takeout pesto, salads and sandwiches in a classic pizzeria. 147 RIVER ST.,

DUCK LAKE RD., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6658 BL • $

45th Parallel Cafe Artsy spot with creative breakfast and

ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.8901 LD • $

lunch. 102 S. BROADWAY, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2233 BL • $-$$

ing prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails. 307

Gates Au Sable Lodge Artful home cooking on the river with

a takeout window for anglers. 471 STEPHAN BRIDGE RD., GRAYLING,

Esperance Gourmets will adore dishes prepared with dazzling

989.348.8462 BLD • BAR • $-$$ •

Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza.

Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole. 6487 W. WEST-

CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.9300 D • $-$$$

Harbor Cafe Traditional breakfasts and lunches with some

fun specialities like cinnamon swirl pancakes and a Reuben omelette. 129 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.8700 BL • $

Barb’s Bakery House-baked goods famous for cinnamon

twists, doughnuts, croissants and more. 112 N. MILL ST., NORTH-

The Front Porch Sit elbow-to-elbow with neighbors for fel-

Blu Exquisite regional cuisine from chef Randy Chamberlain in an intimate setting on Sleeping Bear Bay. LAKE ST., GLEN ARBOR,

lowship and affordable home-cooked food. 9235 MAIN ST., ELLS-

NEW Jac's Parlor Serving pizzas, toasted subs, salads, calzones, breadsticks and Moomer’s ice cream (in the former Cone Corral building). 115 AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.6880 LD • $$

WORTH, 231.588.2000 BL • $

Moose & Stella's Cafe Kalkaska's only dog-themed cafe.

Grey Gables Restaurant Graceful, intimate, Victorian atmo-

Doggone good chow. 203 S CEDAR ST., KALKASKA, 231.258.9778 BL

The Bluebird A mainstay for locals and boaters since 1927.

Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative global feasts during the off-season. Sun. brunch. 102 E.

East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featurBRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450 LD • BAR • $$–$$$

technique in this specialty food and wine shop. 12853 US-31 N.,

That French Place Authentic French crêperie and ice cream

shop. 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 BLD • $

sphere across from the harbor. 308 BELVEDERE AVE., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.9261 D • BAR • $$-$$$

Jordan Inn Victorian B&B with terrific eggs Benedict and

crêpe-style pancakes, fresh lunches and European-style dinners by reservation. 228 MAIN ST., EAST JORDAN, 231.536.9906 BLD •

• $-$$

The Iron Skillet All the classics (corned beef hash and the

• $$

Michaywé Inn the Woods Casual, Up Northy, with a

BLD • $-$$

Royal Farms Boutique farm market with meat pasties, baked

goods, award-winning pies, hard cider, wine. 10445 N. US-31,

ELLSWORTH, 231.599.3222 L • BAR • $-$$

Scovie’s Gourmet Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and

baked goods star here. Dinner is bistro-style comfort food. 111

BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.7827 LD • $-$$

Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional

cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with a massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel. 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311 LD • BAR • $$ •

lake view, steaks and seafood. 1535 OPAL LAKE RD., GAYLORD, 989.939.8800 LD • BAR • $–$$

The Old Depot 1900s train depot features homestyle burgers,

steaks, chops, prime rib, seafood, pies and pastries. 10826 M-32

E., JOHANNESBURG, 989.732.3115 BLD • $$

Otsego Resort American and international menu, nice wine list in a log lodge overlooking the Sturgeon River Valley. The Duck Blind Grille—Casual evening dining. 696 M-32, GAYLORD, 989.732.5181 D • BAR • $$

Paddle Hard Brewing A fun-loving community hangout with artisan tacos, pizzas and brews. 227 E. MICHIGAN AVE., GRAYLING, 989.745.6388 LD • BAR • $$

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at

this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively zydeco, jazz and blues. 617 AMES

Villager Pub A Charlevoix hangout for nearly four decades,

with two distinct sections. The tavern side with its '50s memorabilia and an area with more intimate dining. Known for Great Lakes whitefish, Mexican, ribs and pizza. 427 BRIDGE ST., CHARLE-

WILLIAMS ST., MANCELONA, 231.587.1210 BLD • $

Spike’s Keg O’ Nails An Up North classic for burgers since

1933. 301 N. JAMES ST., GRAYLING, 989.348.7113 LD • BAR • $

Sugar Bowl Restaurant This vintage 1919 eatery serves whitefish, prime rib and Greek specialties. 216 W. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.732.5524 BLD • BAR • $$-$$$

Tap Room 32 Twenty handles of Michigan craft beers and a

VOIX, 231.547.6925 LD • BAR • $-$$

menu of modern brew-friendly vittles like truffle fries and Korean beef tacos. 140 W. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.748.8552 D • $$

ELK RAPIDS/GAYLORD/GRAYLING/ KALKASKA/MANCELONA

The Town Club of Elk Rapids This famous landmark is ap-

NEW American House Wood Fired Pizza Full-service res-

taurant with Marra Forni wood-fired brick pizza oven. Full menu and traditional Neapolitan-style pizzas made with San Marzano tomatoes and fresh ingredients. 151 RIVER ST., 231.264.6062 LD •

BAR • $$

Bennethum’s Northern Inn Fresh eclectic cuisine and

updated regional favorites in a cozy Northwoods setting. Creative kids menu, Sun. brunch. 3917 SOUTH OLD 27, GAYLORD,

989.732.9288 LD • BAR • $-$$$

50

Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse Great burgers, hand-cut fries, Sicilian-style pizza. Curling rink. 172 W. BURDICKVILLE RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.8869 LD • BAR • $

Cedar City Market Specialty grocery and butchery with local

meats and family and individually sized take-and-bake items.

8974 S. KASSON ST., 231.835.2222 LD • $

The Cove Seafood, steaks and great bar food (don’t miss the Chubby Mary—a bloody Mary with a smoked chub in it!) served up in the heart of Fishtown on the Leland River. 111 W. RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9834 LD • BAR • $$-$$$ •

Dick’s Pour House Homemade soups and pies, sandwiches, pizza. 103 W. PHILIP ST., LAKE LEELANAU, 231.256.9912 LD • BAR • $-$$

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such

ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799 D • BAR • $$

US-31 N., CENTRAL LAKE, 231.599.1111 BLD • BAR • $-$$$

JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688 LD • BAR • $$

Ray's BBQ, Brews & Blues A BBQ joint on the banks of the Au Sable River. 204 INGHAM ST., GRAYLING, 989.348.1515 LD •

Shirley’s Café An ultra-friendly, all-homemade oasis. 528 S.

options like the seafood platter with black garlic butter. 4990

Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers in a cozy cabin with a fireplace and a lively, friendly wait staff. 102

Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern Rustic family-style roadhouse known for burgers, soups and raspberry pie in season. 7144 N.

BAR • $$ •

Torch Lake Cafe Inventive, ultra-fresh cuisine with sharable

steaks. 5858 MANITOU BLVD., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.6444 LD • BAR

ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530 LD • BAR • $-$$

Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin

ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. 101 ANTRIM

RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9081 LD • BAR • $$ •

The Local All-American breakfast and lunch done better. 145

LIAMS ST., MANCELONA, 231.587.9778 BLD • $-$$ AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.498.2190 BL • $$

Pigs Eatin’ Ribs Real smokehouse with mouthwatering BBQ. Weekend breakfast. 1418 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7447

231.334.2530 D • BAR • $$$$ •

Boone Docks Log lodge with roomy deck, shrimp, burgers,

BAR • $-$$$

• BAR • $-$$ •

PORT, 231.386.5851 BL • $

beloved smoked brisket) with some fun additions. 524 S. WIL-

The Landing Restaurant Come by boat or car and watch the

Ironton Ferry motor back and forth while you eat at this newly renovated lakeside fun-food spot on Lake Charlevoix. Beach fries, New England lobster roll, great burgers, BBQ and other fab summertime food. 10231 FERRY RD., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.9036 LD

ERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754 BLD • BAR • $-$$

preciated for its Friday Night Perch Fry and famous Prime Rib Thursdays. 133 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9914 LD • BAR • $$

Treetops Resort, Hunters Grille, & Sports Bar Steak,

burgers, ribs, pasta, signature pizza, chicken, fish and glutenfree selections. 3962 WILKINSON RD., GAYLORD, 866.348.5249 BLD

• BAR • $-$$$

Trout Town Café Homey fishermen’s spot with sautéed

rainbow trout and eggs, pecan-crusted French toast for breakfast; braised brisket and home-roasted turkey for dinner. 306 ELM

M-22, BETWEEN NORTHPORT AND LELAND, 231.386.9923 LD • BAR • $

as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. 4566 MCFARLANE, MAPLE CITY/ BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900 D • BAR • $$

Garage Bar & Grill BBQ & bar eats are served at this pared-

down watering hole with garage doors & a dog-friendly patio.

108 S WAUKAZOO ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.5511 LD • BAR • $-$$

Hannah’s Stop into Hannah's for cakes, cupcakes, ice cream and gifts from local merchants. 112 E. PHILLIPS ST., LAKE LEELANAU, 231.994.2068 LD • $

Hearth & Vine Café at Black Star Farms Farm-to-table

menu that pairs with Black Star Farm’s wine, cider and craft cocktails. 10844 E. REVOLD RD., SUTTONS BAY, 231.944.1297 LD •

BAR • $-$$

The Homestead Whiskers Bar & Grill—pizza, wood-grilled ribs, burgers and more. Dine inside and out. D • BAR • $-$$ 1 WOODRIDGE RD. (OFF M-22), GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.5000

Hop Lot Brewing Co. Family-friendly microbrewery with four-season patio and games serving ribs, tacos, wings and a s’more kit to top it all off. 658 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4445 LD • BAR • $-$$

Hang-On Express Thai and Chinese classics. 316 ST. JOSEPH,

SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.0202 LD • $

ST., KALKASKA, 231.258.2701 BLD • $

T R AV E R S E / AU G U S T 2 0 2 1

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The Culinary North

Joe’s Friendly Tavern A rustic, comfy spot with bar food: whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. 11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 231.326.5506 BLD • BAR • $$

D OW N TOW N S U T TO N S B AY

Knot Just a Bar Fish and burgers in a modern, beachy pub perched over pretty Omena Bay. 5019 BAY SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393 LD • BAR • $-$$ •

La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal

cool. comfort. classic.

paradise. C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3944 D • BAR •

$$-$$$

Leland Lodge Bogey's 19th Hole open for lunch 7 days a

week. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 565 PEARL ST., LELAND, 231.256.9848

mon–sat 10am–6pm | bahles.net sunday 11am–5pm

Little Traverse Inn Old World gastro pub highlights the food and beer of the British Isles. 149 E. HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY. 231.

228.2560 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

Lylah’s Sandwiches and salads made to order, homemade

soups, sauces and dressings. 99 W. 4TH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.994.2700 BL • $

Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. 497 E. HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422 BLD • BAR • $

INTRODUCING THE NEW

Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on regional cuisine made from scratch. 413 N. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344 BLD • BAR • $-$$$

NEW Nittolo's Restaurants Two restaurants under one roof.

Nittolo's Pizza: Unique brick-oven pizzas—classic cheese and pepperoni, but also Spanish, Napoli and Greek. Seafood & Social: Ora king salmon, Alaska halibut, Chilean sea bass and more. 104 MAIN ST., LAKE LEELANAU, 231.994.2400 LD • $$-$$$ North Country Grill & Pub The Boone family keeps the classics (whitefish, prime rib, and yellow perch) while flirting with fondue, fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. 420 N. ST. JOSEPH

MYNORTH.COM ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000 LD • BAR • $$

The Mitten Brewing Co. Small craft brewery featuring ap-

petizers, indoor lounge, covered patio and beer garden. 112 W. NAGANOBA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1101 LD • BAR • $

New Bohemian Cafe A neighborhood coffee shop and deli, also home to Baia Estate Winery tasting room. 110 S. WAUKAZOO ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1034 BL • $-$$

Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads

and breakfast—all done well. 8654 S. MAPLE CITY RD., MAPLE CITY,

231.228.6692 BL • $

Riverfront Pizza & Deli Pizza, sandwiches, soup, salad and daily specials. Lots of desserts. Deck on the Crystal River. 6281 WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3876 LD • $-$$

Shipwreck Café Fresh, homemade pretzel, Italian herb and

plain buns made daily for made-to-order sandwiches. 11691 S.

LACORE RD., EMPIRE, 231.835.2580 BL • $

Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas, great beer list and more. 111 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

The Tribune Ice Cream and Eatery House-cured lox, break-

fast burritos, meatloaf sammies and burgers. 110 E. NAGONABA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1055 BLD • $

Trish’s Dishes Crêpes, omelettes, salads, gourmet sandwiches. 407 E. MAIN ST., LELAND, 231.994.2288 BLD • $ Western Avenue Grill Birch-bark-rustic motif with canoes hung

from the rafters. Pasta, seafood, whitefish and burgers. 6680 WESTERN AVE. (M-109), GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3362 LD • BAR • $$

Wren Contemporary comfort food and a constantly changing

menu to feature locally sourced ingredients. 303 N. ST. JOSEPH

ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.1175 D • BAR • $$

START EXPLORING! MyNorth.com

NOORRTTHHEERRN N M MIICCHHIIGGAAN N' 'SS M MAAGGAAZZIIN NEE N

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The Culinary North

GRAND TRAVERSE AREA INTERLOCHEN

Charles & Reid Detroit Pizza Specializing in Detroit-style

• BAR • $-$$

113 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.3497 D • $$

Bud’s A reprise of the original Bud’s gas/bait shop is a cool hangout for locals, vacationers and Interlochen students. Try the cappuccinos and monkey bread, burgers and original sandwiches. 3061 M-137, INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.9090 BLD • $

Cousin Jenny’s Cornish Pasties Homemade pasties. 129 S. Dayclub Fine dining experience for the whole family at the

West Bay Beach Holiday Inn Resort. 615 FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.275.3005 BLD • $

The Dish Cafe Eclectic menu with creative salads, quesadillas, enormous wraps, sandwiches and smoothies. 108 S. UNION,

LD • BAR • $-$$

Oaky’s Tavern Burgers, pizza, pasta, sandwiches. Friday night

116 South 3rd Street ROGERS CITY 989-734-2232

UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7821 BLD • $

231.947.3700 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

Hofbrau Lively cedar-paneled former general store serves locals and Interlochen performers. Steak, seafood, bluegill and barbecue. Sun. brunch. 2784 M-137, INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.6979

2200 East Mitchell Rd. at the corner of Mitchell & Division Roads PETOSKEY 231-348-8100

pizza. Other menu offerings include salads and sandwiches.

Dilbert’s Soups, sandwiches, omelettes and other home cook-

ing served in a homey atmosphere. 11303 US-31, INTERLOCHEN,

Nationwide Shipping Available at Plathsmeats.com

LINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8700 LD • $$-$$$

Bradley’s Pub & Grille Burgers, ribs, bluegill, brisket, trout

and so much more. 10586 US-31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.275.6401 LD

World Famous Smoked Pork Loin, Bacon, Ham, Hot Dogs, Bratwurst, and Smoked Fish.

The Cooks’ House A sweet little dollhouse of a spot, home to sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility. 115 WEL-

specials. 9205 US-31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.6244 LD • BAR • $-$$

OLD MISSION PENINSULA Bad Dog Deli Eat shrimp pizza, pepperoni pesto rolls or fla-

vorful Boar’s Head sandwiches in this peninsula outpost. 14091

CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.9364 L • $

Boathouse Restaurant Casually elegant spot with great

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.2233 LD • BAR • $

Firefly A dazzling small-plate menu, sushi, steaks and burgs

at a sophisticated hotspot on the river. 310 S. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310 LD • $-$$ •

The Flying Noodle House-made fresh pastas and sauces,

sandwiches and salads, and a signature brick chicken dish. 136

E. FRONT ST., 231.252.4725 LD • BAR • $$

Folgarelli’s Market & Wine Shop Lunch & dinner (eat here or to go), gourmet groceries, wines imported & local, vast selection of cured meats and cheese. 424 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.941.7651 LD • BAR • $-$$

steaks, seafood, large local wine selection. Sunday brunch.

Frenchies Famous Three tables and carryout, offers superb hot sandwiches and espresso drinks. 619 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE

Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted on site. 13512 PENINSULA DR.,

Gitche Crisp Cereal Bar A selection of 12 classic cereals,

14039 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4030 D • BAR • $$$$$ •

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333 LD • BAR • $$

Mission Table Farm-to-table restaurant serving seasonal, lo-

cally sourced fare and craft cocktails. 13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4222 D • BAR • $-$$ •

Old Mission Tavern Prime rib, fresh fish, pastas and ethnic specials—this lushly landscaped spot hosts two fine-art galleries: Bella Galleria and sculptor/owner Verna Bartnick’s studio.

17015 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.7280 LD • BAR • $$

Peninsula Grill Roadhouse with cozy fireplace, wings, burg-

ers, and regional Northern fare. 14091 CENTER RD. TRAVERSE CITY,

231.223.7200 LD • BAR • $$

DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY Amical Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace and street

patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch. 229 E. FRONT

CITY, 231.944.1228 LD • $

rotating options for milks and toppings, featuring Moomer’s ice cream. Outdoor seating available. 319 EAST FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 646.450.0421 BL • $

The Good Bowl Fast casual Vietnamese. 328 E. FRONT

ST.,TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.2662 LD • BAR $-$$

The Green House Café Sandwiches, soups and salads. 115 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.7687 BL • $

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies,

coffee, baked goods, pot pies, chicken salad and quiche. 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437 BL • $ NEW Hexenbelle Serving items like housemade hummus

and flatbread, coconut curry fried rice, chocolate olive oil cake and locally roasted BLK MRKT Coffee. 144 HALL ST., SUITE 107, 231.486.6128 BL • $

Little G’s Fusion Cuisine Asian and Latin taqueria. 531 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY LD • $

ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.8888 LD • BAR • $$-$$$ •

Little Fleet An open-air bar with food trucks. 448 E. FRONT ST.,

Bay Bread Company Bakery with 43 artisanal breads, sandwiches, soups and salads. 601 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.

Mackinaw Brewing Co. Nautical-themed brewpub offers

922.8022 BLD • $

Benedict A family-friendly restaurant offering breakfast and

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1116 LD • BAR • $

great house-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty charburgers, fish and ribs. 161 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 933.1100

lunch sandwiches, pastries, salads, soups and more. 237 LAKE

LD • BAR • $$

Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with from-

of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. 149 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2793 LD • BAR • $$

AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1000 BL • $-$$

Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix

scratch food. Be sure to check out The Shed next door where you'll find a beer garden and a food truck where sliders are served up hot. 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922.9515 LD • BAR

Milk & Honey Salads, sandwiches and homemade ice

NEW Brasserie Amie A Parisian-style brasserie bistro in

231.944.1036 LD • BAR • $

• $-$$

cream all made with local ingredients that are natural, GMOfree and organic when possible. 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

downtown TC serving up brunch and dinner. 160 E. FRONT ST.,

Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American

Brew Café and Bar Hip spot for a drink and light meal be-

231.946.5093 BLD • BAR • $$

231.753.3161 LD • BAR • $$

fore or after performances at the Opera House. 108 E. FRONT ST.,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.2739 BLD • $

Bubba’s Happening Front Street spot with battered mahi and chips, burgers, chimis, salads and tacos. 428 E. FRONT ST., TRA-

menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. 300 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steakhouse serves tender, well-aged charbroiled Black Angus steaks, seafood, ribs, soup, sandwiches.

125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9832 LD • BAR • $$

VERSE CITY, 231.995.0570 BLD • BAR • $

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T he Cu l i nary North On the Table

DINING IN

CELEBRATING CORN

by STACEY BRUGEMAN

Elote has long been cherished as one of the most important crops in Mexican cookery, and there’s no better way to eat Michigan corn than with Mexican flavors.

E

^

Mexican-Style Corn Makes 6 ears

1 Tablespoon salt, plus more to taste 6 ears of corn, husk and silk still on ½ cup mayonnaise 5 ounces queso fresco or cotija cheese, broken into fine crumbles and set on a plate cayenne, ground chipotle or hot chili powder to taste 1 lime, cut into 6 wedges

photo by Dave Weidner / styling by Sarah Peschel

1. Fill a large stock pot halfway with water and add 1 Tablespoon of salt. Cover, and bring to a boil.

2. Meanwhile, rinse any loose dirt off the corn husks and trim the shank end of the corn so that each cob will fit into the pot.

3. Once the water reaches a roaring boil, add the corn— yes, with the husk and silk still on—and cook, covered, for 10 minutes. After 10 minutes, turn the heat off but leave the corn in the pot, covered, allowing it to sit and steam for another 5 minutes more.

4. Using tongs, remove corn from the water and allow it to cool slightly until it is safe to touch.

5. Pull back the husks from each ear and discard the silk.

Salt the corn to taste and use a knife to slather each cob with mayonnaise. Roll each cob in the crumbled cheese, sprinkle with a dusting of cayenne and serve with a wedge of lime. –S.B.

is coming, the elote man is coming, so let’s go!” Traverse City’s Miguel Osorio remembers saying as a tricycle carrying a steamer came down the streets of Oaxaca City during one recent visit. “I need one, two, three,” people would holler in Spanish as they ordered. “It's a celebration!”

Elote, which means corn in Spanish, has also become synonymous with the dish—ears of corn that have been boiled or grilled, sometimes slathered in mayonnaise, but always rolled in Mexican farmers cheese, sprinkled with a little bit of powdered chile and dressed with a squeeze of lime. Many trace the dish to the streets of Mexico City, but it can be found in city centers throughout the country. Here in the U.S., I’ve had it artfully topped with a zigzag of lime mayo, sprinkled with cilantro, even rolled in crushed Flamin' Hot Cheetos. For this recipe, I checked in with Osorio, owner of Osorio Tacos y Salsas (osoriotacosysalsas.com), so we could leave all those American trends behind and take the dish back to its roots.

Osorio grew up on a farm in Oaxaca where his mother still plants corn today. While he moved to Michigan in 1987 at age 21, he remembers her boiling the beloved crop when it was to be eaten fresh as it is here. “You boil with the husk [to] keep the steam, and all the flavor is inside,” says Osorio.

While this enthusiastic farmer-at-heart does not offer Mexican street corn on his brick and mortar menu, he does sell it from the company’s summertime food truck, which is parked next to Bayside Market on US-31. Whether you buy this beloved Mexican classic from Traverse City’s own “elote man” or try your hand at cooking it at home, Osorio tells me that it tastes best when it is “close to the fields.” Fortunately, here in the Heartland, we’ve got that covered. l elotero

Stacey Brugeman is a Leelanau County-based food and beverage writer and editor. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater and Denver’s 5280, where she served as Restaurant Critic.

Follow her on Instagram @staceybrugeman.

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The Culinary North North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches, microbrewed beer and a jam-packed bar scene. 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7325 LD • BAR • $$

NEW Oakwood Proper Burgers High-quality, locally-sourced,

White on Rice Sushi and ramen served carryout or dine-in.

Text or call ahead for orders. 510 W. 14TH ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.633.7423 LD • $-$$

sustainable ingredients, from the MOO-ville ice cream to the burger and the bun. 1108 E. 8TH ST., 231.253.1513 LD • $$

TRAVERSE CITY–EAST

Omelette Shoppe Vast array of omelettes, homemade breads and pastries, soup and sandwiches. 124 CASS ST., 231.946.0912,

serving ice cream and sandwiches for more than 50 years. 1100

AND 1209 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0590 BLD • $

Paesano’s Charming spot with cozy booths puts pizza pie on

a pedestal. 447 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.5740 LD • $

Pangea’s Pizza Craft pies, creative toppings and a rooftop

Bardon’s Wonder Freeze A family-owned Traverse City icon, E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1044 LD • $

Cottage Café Comfort food, coffee and tea press pots, friendly

service, reasonable prices and famous for all-you-can-eat freshwater perch.472 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9261 BLD • $-$$

deck and bar. 135 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.9800 LD

Cuppa Joe Eastside A locally owned, community-oriented cof-

Park Street Cafe Fresh-made gourmet sandwiches (breakfast

US-31, N. STE. F, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.3247 BL • $

• BAR $-$$

waffle sandwich!) and other grab-and-go foods. Indoor and outdoor seating. 113 S. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1747 BL • $ Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and

NEW Dancing Donkey Burgers Retro-style burgers, French fries (with an optional beer-cheese topping), Northwoods sodas, root beer floats. 2658 CROSSING CIRCLE, 231.947.6721 LD • $ The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted wood-fired

flatbreads and flavorful house brews revitalize the Depot. 642

RAILROAD PL., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168 LD • BAR • $-$$

Food Arabia In the Food Court at the Grand Traverse Mall,

Middle Eastern fare featuring shawarma, hummus, falafel, gyro rice bowls with chicken and lamb, and rose drinks. 3200 W.

SOUTH AIRPORT RD., 929.346.2210 LD • $

Hunan Authentic Chinese eatery that also offers Japanese

cuisine. 1425 S. AIRPORT RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.1388 L (TUESUN) D (FRI-SUN) • $

fee shop focusing primarily on curbside and to-go orders. 1990

The Kitchen Salads, wraps, tacos. All to go. 1249 WOODMERE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.8646 BL & EARLY D • $

Don’s Drive-In A ’50s-style diner and drive-in with booths, burgers, fries, shakes, nostalgic jukebox. 2030 US-31 N., TRAVERSE

Tiki Pineapple Tropical café offering eats and treats for ev-

CITY, 231.938.1860 LD • $

eryone, including their famous dairy- and fat-free Dole Whip soft-serve, all made with local ingredients. 1218 S. GARFIELD AVE.,

231.421.3868 BL • $

salads, including vegetarian specialties and award-winning desserts. 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7632 LD • BAR

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor pan-

NEW Rad.ish Street Food Featuring gourmet plant-based

100 GRAND TRAVERSE BLVD., ACME, 231.534.6000

ads and sammies, ribs and whitefish at this year-round establishment at the Crown Golf Club. 2430 W. CROWN DR., TRAVERSE CITY,

La Señorita Bustling Mexican cantina with fajitas, jumbo margaritas. 2455 N. US-31 S., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.4545 LD •

Oryana 10th Street Café Locally sourced organic sand-

• $-$$

cuisines—all farm-to-table, seasonal vegetables and herbs, vegan sushi, housemade tofu and more. 346 E. FRONT ST.,

SUITE #2, 231.943.1145, AND 3593 BUNKER HILL RD., WILLIAMSBURG, 231.421.5077 LD • $

Rare Bird Brewery The likes of pork belly sliders, oysters on

the half shell and great burgers served up alongside great beer.

229 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2053 LD • BAR • $$

Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh, sleek surroundings and

orama of East Bay and regional fine dining. Music on weekends.

D • BAR • $$-$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$

BAR • $

McGee’s No. 72 Gourmet burgers, fries, pizza and other

sophisticated bar food. 4341 M-72 E., WILLIAMSBURG, 231.421.8800 D • BAR • $$

Mr. C’s Pub and Grill Fine pub food and entrees paired with

excellent wines and craft beers. 9009 M-72 E., WILLIAMSBURG,

high-quality Asian fusion cuisine. 237 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.267.3300 LD • BAR • $$

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips Ultra-fresh Great Lakes fish

Randy’s Diner Soups, salads, sandwiches, all-you-can-eat cod. 1120 CARVER ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0789 BLD • $

231.944.1733 D • BAR • $-$$$

fry. 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8700 LD • $

Seven Monks Taproom Pair any of 46 beers on tap (includ-

ing European Trappist ales) with your burger, thin crust gourmet pizza, salad or lively sides like sweet potato frites and Scotch egg. 128 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.8410 LD • BAR •

$-$$

Sparks BBQ Smoking up the real thing—pulled pork and

chicken, brisket, ribs and jerky. Don’t miss the BBQ Sundae.

201 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.633.7800 LD • $-$$

Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired

toppings and sides. 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

D • BAR • $$$

Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. 250 E.

FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912 LD • BAR • $$-$$$

Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inven-

tive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits.

300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2500 LD • BAR • $-$$

The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local

ingredients with extensive outdoor seating and a casual atmosphere. 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.0900 BLD • BAR

• $-$$$

Thirsty Fish Sports Grille Family-friendly sports bar with

Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of

tequila and Latin American cuisine. 1544 US-31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.2773 LD • BAR • $-$$

Reflect Bistro at Cambria Suites Breakfast, dinner and

happy hour 4-7 p.m. daily. 255 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY,

231.778.9000 BD • BAR • $-$$$

Smoke and Porter Public House An American smokehouse where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits.

Serving microbrews, wine and liquor. 1752 US-31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5020 LD • BAR • $-$$$

The Soup Cup, a MicroSouperie Homemade soups,

grilled cheese, Belgian fries. 718 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.7687 L • $

Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood,

prime rib and more. 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG, 231.534.8700 D • BAR • $-$$$

Thai Café Eat in or take out authentic Thai cuisine in a café

atmosphere. 1219 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5166 LD

• $-$$

TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH

seafood, burgers, steaks, pasta and a 600-gallon fish tank. Live music on the patio. 221 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.4157

Agave Mexican Grill Authentic, freshly made Mexican cuisine, daily specials and a full bar. 851 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY,

Warehouse Kitchen & Cork Seasonally inspired farm-to-fork

Bergstrom's Burgers Made from scratch burgers and sides, rotating specials each week. 905 S. US-31, 231.252.4048 LD • $

LD • BAR • $-$$

restaurant inside Hotel Indigo. 263 W. GRANDVIEW PKWY., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0500 BLD • BAR • $-$$$

Water's Edge Sweet Tooth A charming bakery that special-

izes in pleasing your sweet tooth. All candies and baked goods are made from scratch. Custom orders welcome! 405 S. UNION

ST., 231.668.9603 BL • $-$$$

231.929.4408 LD • BAR • $-$$

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.3991 D • BAR • $$ Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies, soups, salads and pasta, with daily specials. 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872 BL • $

Mulligan’s Pub and Grill Stuffed burgers, extravagant sal231.932.2166 LD • BAR • $-$$

wiches, smoothies, coffee, tea and baked goods. 260 E. TENTH

ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.0191 BLD • $-$$

Right Brain Brewery Traverse City’s beloved brew pub now at a new location. 225 E. 16TH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1239 BAR • $

Sauce at Incredible Mo’s Artisan pizza, pasta, salad in a kidfriendly atmosphere. 1355 SILVER LAKE CROSSINGS BLVD., GRAWN, 231.944.1355 LD •BAR • $-$$

Sparky's Diner Famous diner with the same great service, food and environment you love, with more exciting options.

1462 W. SOUTH AIRPORT RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8005 BLD • $$

Taste of India In the Food Court of Grand Traverse Mall, au-

thentic Indian cuisine: curry, paneer, vindaloo, chicken tikka masala, biriyani, aloo gobi, and side dishes like naan and basmati rice. 3200 W. SOUTH AIRPORT RD., 231.220.9057 LD • $$

Willie’s Rear Full breakfasts, sandwiches, burgers. Counter and table seating. 1315 W. S. AIRPORT RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5506 BL • $

TRAVERSE CITY–WEST Apache Trout Grill Rough-hewn eatery affords a great bay

view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad. 13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079 LD • BAR • $$ • Harrington’s By the Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. 13890 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393 BLD • BAR • $-$$$ •

Jacob's Farm Jacob’s Farm Maze features not only their well-

loved summer and fall activities, but also has become a wedding and event venue with food and bar. 7100 E. TRAVERSE HWY., 231.632.6293 LD • BAR • $

PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 100, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960 LD • BAR • $$ Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare: breakfast

and lunch all day. 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.4648 BL • $$

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under

the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons. Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. 717 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213 LD • BAR • $-$$

The Silver Swan Global fare and killer desserts. 13692 S. WEST

BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0203 LD • $

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The Culinary North Spanglish Authentic, homemade Mexican fare with occasional American accents. 1333 YELLOW DR., TRAVERSE CITY. 231.943.1453 BLD • $

Sugar 2 Salt This brunch spot (known as S2S) shakes up the same ol' same ol' with dishes like duck (yes, for breakfast) and everything served up with seasonal produce. 1371 GRAY DR., STE. 300, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.492.4616 B • $-$$

TC Italian In the Cherryland Center, TC Italian creates from-

scratch salad dressings, country French bread pizzas and delish lasagna. 1752 S. GARFIELD AVE., 231.631.8745 LD • $$$ Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian ac-

cent. 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.8989 LD • BAR •

$$-$$$

The Underground Cheesecake Co. Housemade soups,

sandwiches and a huge array of incredibly delish cheesecakes.

800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.492.0382 L • $

West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and

more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. 12719 SOUTH

The Roadhouse Traditional Mexican cuisine with a cool cantina atmosphere. 1058 MICHIGAN AVE., (US-31), BENZONIA,

Conundrum Cafe Light lunch fare, Hawaiian shave ice and

alcohol available to purchase. 603 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA,

231.882.9631 LD • BAR • $-$$

231.352.8150 BL • $-$$

Ursa Major Bistro Breakfast, burgers, sandwiches. 245 S.

Crescent Bakery Artisanal breads, pies, cheesecakes, and handdecorated cookies. 404 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4611 BL • $

BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4250 BLD • $-$$

Dinghy’s Local favorite for 25 years with house-smoked meats CADILLAC After 26 Casual eatery dedicated to employing adults with developmental disabilities and cognitive impairment. 127 W.

including famous ribs, half-pound burger, Big BLT, Mexican and kids menus. Award-winning Friday fish fry. 415 MAIN ST., FRANK-

FORT, 231.352.4702 LD • BAR • $$

CASS ST., CADILLAC, 231.468.3526 BLD • $

The Fillmore House-crafted burgers, salads and wood-fired piz-

Blue Heron Cafe Dazzling upscale sandwiches, soups and

MANISTEE, 231.887.4121 LD• BAR • $-$$

salads as well as from-scratch pastries. 304 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5461 BL • $

Cadillac Grill This lodge-style, car-themed eatery’s cuisine runs

from bar food to fine dining. 7839 E. 46 ½ RD., OVERLOOKING THE ELDORADO GOLF COURSE, CADILLAC, 231.779.3663 LD • BAR • $$

Clam Lake Beer Company 40 craft beers on tap, wood-

zas (p.m. only), all rich with Michigan ingredients. 318 RIVER ST,

The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails) served in a serene atmosphere on Frankfort’s main drag. 300 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4114 BLD • $–$$ •

The Glenwood Casual dining, almond-battered shrimp and bleu cheese filet mignon, homemade desserts. Open for dinner at 5 p.m. 4604 MAIN ST., ONEKAMA, 231.889.3734 D • BAR

WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2922 LD • BAR • $$ •

fired pizzas, grilled Angus burgers. 106 MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.6150 BLD • BAR • $-$$

• $–$$$ •

West Side Beverage Offers many varieties of craft beers, sand-

Coyote Crossing Resort Full bar & restaurant with North-

Hotel Frankfort Fine dining served up at this in-town inn. 231

wiches, local fountain sodas, coffee, local wines and now a new deli and pizza counter. 912 W. FRONT ST., 231.947.9312 LD • $

BENZIE, MANISTEE, CADILLAC BENZONIA/BEULAH/HONOR/ LAKE ANN/THOMPSONVILLE The Bread Lady Small-batch artisan-style breads, cookies,

specialty muffins and other dessert treats. Also special orders for cakes of all sizes. 19773 LINWOOD AVE., LAKE ANN, 231.275.2253 BLD • $$

The Cherry Hut Homemade cherry pies, jams, jellies, red-and-

white-clad servers and American-style food. 211 N. MICHIGAN AVE.

(US-31), BEULAH, 231.882.4431 LD • $-$$

Cold Creek Inn Perch, planked whitefish, homemade pizza,

burgers. 185 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.882.5531 LD • BAR •

$-$$

Crystal Mountain Resort Thistle Pub & Grille—Wood-

paneled eatery, continental and Scottish specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$$ Wild Tomato Restaurant & Bar—Family Favorites.

BLD • BAR • $-$$ 12500 CRYSTAL MOUNTAIN DR., THOMPSONVILLE, 231.946.3585 OR 231.378.2000

Five Shores Brewing Craft brewery with appetizers to share and pressed sandwiches. 163 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4400 LD • BAR • $-$$

Geno’s Sports Bar and Grill Burgers, broasted chicken,

woods décor set on beautiful property in the Manistee National Forest. American fare. Live music. Open six days a week year round. 8593 S. 13 RD., CADILLAC, 231.862.3212 LD • BAR • $$

Evergreen Resort Terrace Room restaurant—Stellar water

and woods views plus American fare, Sun. brunch and sandwiches. BLD • BAR • $$ Curly’s Up North Bar & Grill—Casual bar food in a snug knotty-pine setting. Live entertainment. LD • BAR • $$ 7880 MACKINAW TRAIL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9947

Hermann’s European Cafe Austrian-born master pastry chef

Hermann Suhs creates international cuisine, seasonal specialties and divine desserts in an alpenhaus-style dining room. 214 N.

Rock's Landing Eclectic menu combines local ingredients with

club-style restaurant features burgers, aged beef, fish and wild game. 301 S. LAKE MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5332 LD • BAR • $$ •

Maggie’s Tavern Chili, burgers, steaks, wet burritos and kid selections are served up in a lively 19th-century setting. 523 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.1810 LD • BAR • $

Raven Social BBQ plates, burgers, soon-to-be-famous pou-

tine, house-brewed craft beer. 119 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC,

231.444.6396 LD • BAR • $-$$

beef, Mediterranean rack of lamb and an emphasis on local ingredients all served with a spectacular view of Lake Michigan.

14710 NORTHWOOD HWY., ARCADIA, 231.889.3001 BLD • $-$$$

Birch & Maple Scratch cuisine prepared with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Friendly folks and fab craft cocktails.

727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0399 BLD • BAR • $-$$

Blue Fish Kitchen + Bar New American cuisine, tradi-

The Manitou Whitefish, perch, duck with cherry sauce, ribs,

231.887.4188 LD • BAR $-$$$

NORTH SCENIC HWY., HONOR, 231.882.4761 D • BAR • $$-$$$

Bungalow Inn This former rustic cabin offers steak, ribs and fish-fry specials, perch. 1100 28TH ST., MANISTEE, 231.723.8000 LD

Papa J’s Pizzeria & Diner Sparkling diner serving home-

made dishes and fine pizza pie. Weekend buffets and everyday pizza lunch buffet. 10583 MAIN ST., HONOR, 231.325.7070 BLD • $

Platte River Inn Classic dining in a casual atmosphere.

Steaks, Italian, Mexican. 10921 MAIN ST., HONOR, 231.227.1200

BLD • BAR • $-$$

ISTEE, 231.299.1020 LD • BAR $-$$ • 231.352.6700 D • $–$$

global influences. Intimate dining, feet from Crystal Lake. 1577 CRYSTAL DR., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0158 D • BAR $$ •

Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair

with inventive, smart bistro fare. 303 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118 LD • BAR • $-$$

Taco 'Bout It Mexican Fusion Tavo and Tarrah Hernandez

turned their food truck into a restaurant dream-come-true with ultra-fresh tacos on hand-pressed corn tortillas, aguas frescas and tamarind mules. 344 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.887.4441 LD • BAR • $-$$

231.383.4499 LD • BAR • $-$$

steaks, seafood. Nine miles north of Frankfort on M-22. 4349

North Channel Brewing Co. Watch the action at the draw-

Lakeside Charlie’s A fine deck on Lake Mitchell. The hunt

1700 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.4575 LD • BAR • $

Arcadia Bluffs Golf Club & Restaurant Fresh fish, aged

Lucky Dog Bar and Grille Burgers, smoked wings, brats, sandwiches, craft beer, cocktails. 223 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH,

ELBERTA, 231.352.9136 LD • BAR $-$$

Papano’s Pizza Traditional pizza pie. 334 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT,

Hungry Tummy Restaurant Full breakfasts (chicken-fried

bagels. 274 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.882.5221 BL • $

Mayfair Tavern Burgers, steaks, fish. 515 FRANKFORT AVE.,

Herraduras Mexican Bar & Grill Authentic dishes like flautas, enchiladas and carnitas, plus shrimp chimis and steaks.

231.378.2554 LD • BAR • $

L'Chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and

es, burgers, steak, perch, liver and onions. 735 FRANKFORT AVE.,

ELBERTA, 231.352.5273 BLD • $–$$

bridge in a refined industrial atmosphere with meats smoked daily and excellent craft beers on tap. 86 WASHINGTON ST., MAN-

FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ONEKAMA/ MANISTEE/ARCADIA

226 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.882.5103 BLD • BAR • $-$$

bagels. 318 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.5220 BL • $-$$

Lighthouse Café Robust breakfasts, soups, salads, sandwich-

MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9563 LD • BAR • $$

pizza, soups, salads. 14848 THOMPSON AVE., THOMPSONVILLE,

steak, eggs and gravy ... ), pizza, broasted chicken and more.

MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.8090 BLD • $-$$$

L’Chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and

tional fare, vegetarian and vegan. 312 RIVER ST., MANISTEE.

Timbers Restaurant Family-owned restaurant with steaks,

prime-rib, pasta, whitefish, craft beer, regional wines, gourmet pizza, specialty salads. 5535 M-115, CADILLAC, 231.775.6751 LD • BAR • $-$$

T.J.’s Pub Take a step down from the sloped sidewalk for paninis, Mexican cuisine and pizza below the stately Ramsdell Inn. 399 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.398.9174 LD • BAR • $ Villa Marine Friday fish special. Saturday prime rib. American

cooking. 228 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.5450 LD • $-$$

Yellow Dog Café Fabulous coffee, sandwiches, baked goods.

4850 MAIN ST., ONEKAMA, 231.508.5008 LD • $

• BAR • $-$$

The Cabbage Shed Suds, and superb eats like seared scallops, rack of lamb and Ritz-crusted walleye. 198 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9843 D • $-$$ •

FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS! Go to MyNorth.com/Restaurants

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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T he Cu l i nary North Last Call COMMENCEMENT COCKTAIL

Stacey Brugeman is a Leelanau County-based food and beverage writer and editor. Her work has appeared in Food & Wine, Saveur, Travel + Leisure, Eater and Denver’s 5280, where she served as Restaurant Critic. Follow her on Instagram @staceybrugeman.

F R O M

O U R

C E L L A R

Not flexing your mixology muscles tonight?

Here’s what area beverage professionals are drinking right now.

Walloon Lake’s Barrel Back restaurant has been committed to a dynamic beer list since they first opened their doors. This summer, the lakeside bar team loves pouring the Cheboygan Brewing Co. Blood Orange Honey. This ale is the perfect alternative to a summer shandy—with hints of fruit flavor but a stronger beer backbone. For a wheat beer, it leans more crisp and quaffable than it does yeast-y, but has the foamy head and mouthfeel of a good witbier. cheboyganbrewing.com, $9 for four 16-ounce cans

Rachel Van Til, an Old Mission native who is now an advanced somm at The Clubs at Houston Oaks, loves drinking Michigan wine in the Lone Star State. She’s especially excited to have access to the lesser-known 2019 Left Foot Charley Kerner there. “This wine was made for Sauvignon Blanc drinkers, with generous aromas of lemongrass, ginger, lime candy and jasmine,” Van Til says of the bottling, which tolerates being served extra chilled during the hot summer months. –S.B. leftfootcharley.com, $25 per bottle

^

Barnyard Pisco Sour

Serves 1 White of 1 fresh egg 2 ounces Peruvian pisco 1 ounce freshly squeezed lime juice ¾ ounce simple syrup 3 dashes of Angostura bitters Place ice cubes in a coupe glass to chill it.

Add egg white, pisco, lime juice and simple syrup to a large, dry shaker. Seal tightly and shake continuously until the egg is emulsified and foamy, about 30 seconds. Add one or two ice cubes to the shaker and shake again until the shaker is cold, about 10 seconds.

Discard the ice in the coupe, and pour contents of the shaker into the glass, being sure not to leave any of the egg’s frothy goodness behind. Garnish with a few dashes of bitters. –S.B. NOTE: While eggs that are purchased from the grocery store or market are often washed already, it is critical when using a backyard egg to rinse the shell thoroughly before using the egg raw. While eggs raised just footsteps from your back door are as fresh as it gets, they are also as dirty as can be.

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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photo by Dave Weidner / styling by Sarah Peschel

G

rowing up, my father

by STACEY BRUGEMAN sold an egg grading machine and I spent my Our favorite thing to do with a childhood touring farms that housed millions of spring flock's first egg? Drink it. birds. Needless to say, it felt like no biggie when, a few years into our marriage, my husband asked me if we could get a few backyard hens. We lived in Denver at the time, and he promptly built what friends called the Frank Lloyd Wright of chicken coops—they joked that we could have Airbnb’ed that thing. We raised a few flocks there, and have now done so here at our Northern Michigan home as well.

Every few years when it’s time to add some spring chicks to the mix, we seek out those breeds that add color to our carton, then feed and nurture those soft fuzzy little layers and wait. It takes some 18 weeks from the time a chick hatches until it begins laying eggs of its own—which means a spring flock’s first eggs often come in August.

Each time our newest “girls” lay that precious debut, I’ve celebrated by putting it in a cocktail. There are all kinds of drinks that include a raw egg—eggnog, the gin fizz and, one of my favorites, a pisco sour. Pisco is a grape brandy that is distilled in Peru and Chile. Paired simply with freshly squeezed citrus, it is the viscous, frothy egg white foam that really shines. Grab a rainbow dozen at the farmers market and join me in toasting to fresh barnyard eggs!

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Outdoors

SUPS & LOONS

by KANDACE CHAPPLE

A serene sunrise paddle on Duck Lake takes a loony turn.

photo by Kandace Chapple

I

Suddenly, I knew. f you would like to survive a sunrise standThe Killer Loon surfaced on the far side of my SUP board. up paddle with loons, please heed the following It had gone under me. advice.

Within a split second, the other adult loon surfaced on the One morning in August, I got up early and near side of my board. I was surrounded! took my SUP down to Duck Lake, parking at This is when I learned how to sprint on a board. the boat launch at Interlochen State Park. It was Because loons don’t have hollow bones like most birds, a beautiful, serene dawn; something I had been hoping they are (killer) underwater swimmers, capable of traveling for. I had worked up my nerve to SUP alone for the first ^ 200 yards in five minutes. I’m time. I wanted the full experiguessing I was 199 yards out, ence—a quiet, untouched, still Getting Loony because there is no way I was morning to myself. close enough to be a threat. But Even with my leash and life Stay at least 100 feet from loons or from shorelines I didn’t get a chance to check jacket on, I decided to stay close to avoid accidentally scaring a loon off its nest (or inviting on that. to shore, paddling in shallow it over to your paddleboard).

Gone was my serene paddle. water at all times. As I launched, — Instead, I was now in a fight for I reassured myself that there If loons give a warning tremolo call, or rise up and my life. Both loons were pursuwere no monsters in Michigan flap their wings, move away. (Do not be impressed and ing me—flapping their wings at waters that could get me. Right? wait around for the rest of the show like I did.) me and tremolo-ing. (The baby We’ll see.

— was doing backflips in the weeds At first, things were going Loons can have a wingspan of close to 5 feet, weigh oblivious to the panic underway along quite nicely. I was getting up to 17 pounds and adults can be 3 feet in length. at its expense.) braver and steadier on my new — I paddled like I’d never padboard, starting to get, shall I Loons live 20-30 years and are territorial, returning dled before. On cue, clouds blew admit, cocky. Look at me go! annually to the same lake to breed. over the sun, the wind picked up Next, I spotted three loons up — in my face and I looked down to ahead by a little point in the lake.

Loons walk clumsily on land; that’s how they got their see I’d sprinted into a swath of I was thrilled—a mom, dad and name. They are unable to walk easily on land because their tall seaweed. I panicked. The baby. Wow! This was the life! legs are located far back on their bodies—the same feature only thing worse than death by I paddled along the shore, that makes them lightning-fast swimmers. loons? Death by seaweed. swinging a bit wider around Within a few minutes, it was them, admiring them playing in over. The loons let up, and I found myself way over my head, the weeds. headed into the middle of the lake, with rain threatening, and Then, as I passed, one of the adults started a long, waverfar, far from my quiet little dawn paddle of serenity. ing call. I was even more thrilled to see the loons doing I’m happy to report that I survived. And my advice? If you their thing. However, I would later learn that this is called a ever hear a loon calling ahead of you, turn that raft around. “tremolo”—the sound a loon uses when alarmed … or about to go to battle with a SUP board.

Kandace Chapple is a freelance writer and owner of At this point, I was actually admiring the gusto of the call.

Michigan Girl, an event planning business. She can be That is, until one of the adult loons dove underwater. When reached at kandacechapple.com. the bird did not resurface for several minutes, I got my first inkling of the trouble I was in. I searched the surface of the lake frantically; where did that loon go?

NORTHERN MICHIGAN'S MAGAZINE

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7/5/21 5:01 PM

Love of the Land

Huron Pines hosted a service day in May at Vanderbilt Area Schools to plant trees and do trail building and maintenance in their school forest.

PROTECTING WILD PLACES

by ALLISON JARRELL

A generous grant is helping conservation nonprofit Huron Pines protect the North's wild places in a big way.

photo courtesy of Huron Pines

L

ast spring, conservation nonprofit Huron Pines made a big announcement—a $200,000 grant would help fund the launch of the “Protect Wild Places” program. This project aims to restore 5,000 acres of wildlife habitat and recreational land as well as 150 miles of waterways and Great Lakes shoreline.

The Gaylord-based nonprofit will use the vital funding from Consumers Energy Foundation's Planet Award to encourage communities across the state to partner with them to protect natural resources. The nonprofit’s staff will work directly with local municipalities and conservation partners to help communities build the infrastructure and foster skills needed to support the long-term health of their natural areas, many of which are home to rare, threatened or endangered species like piping plover, Pitcher’s thistle, Blanding’s turtle, dwarf lake iris and Kirtland’s warbler.

“We’ve seen people embracing the outdoors and public access to nature in staggering numbers over the past year,” Huron Pines Executive Director Brad Jensen says. “Now is 60

the time to turn enthusiasm for the outdoors into action to protect the wild places we all love. We’re excited that this new effort aligns with our vision to support communitydriven conservation.”

The grant funding will support program development, community planning and hands-on stewardship opportunities across Northern Michigan, including projects such as: threatened and endangered species monitoring, invasive species removal, native tree and shrub plantings and river restoration. Currently, Huron Pines is working with schools in Grayling and Vanderbilt to get students involved with forest management.

“The idea is to mix information with experience so participants will not only learn about natural resources, they will also get out on the land or in the water to put new skills into practice,” Huron Pines Community Program Director Abigail Ertel explains. “When we educate and empower communities to prioritize conservation, the impact goes far beyond the reach of a single event.” huronpines.org

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