Traverse, Northern Michigan's Magazine June 2020

INSIDE: PLUS:

MYSTICAL HEX HATCH // THE ULTIMATE BBQ GUIDE! MACKINAC'S LEGENDARY LILACS

NORTHERN 12 DAYS OF KITCHENS HOME & COTTAGE THE BEST OF NORTHERN OUR PICKSHOME FOR & COTTAGE BUNK BEDS!

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When “Financial security from generation to generation,” is your tagline, you tend to take a long-term view of market performance. You also tend to be optimistic, given that historical market data overwhelmingly favors that long-term mindset—even in the throes of a worrisome crisis like COVID-19.

A profound sense of gratitude helps. Gratitude to the many who are visibly fighting the virus day and night at great peril to their health. And gratitude to the equal number of good people who, behind the scenes, are providing products, services and aid to our nation. As author Mary Anne Radmacher once said, “Courage doesn’t always roar. Sometimes it’s the quiet voice at the end of the day saying, ‘I will try again tomorrow.’”

With you, and in every measure thanks to you, we will prevail.

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Contents

Discover more about Up North, people, places, food and events.

32

june | features

46 38

54

32 | WATERVALE’S MAGIC SUMMERS

64

An author reflects on her childhood trips to the iconic Watervale Inn, where visitors can still enjoy a transformative summertime experience today.

38 | A HEX UPON ME It’s a mystical sight when millions of mayflies hatch in Michigan, signaling the best trout fishing of the year.

46 | PILLARS OF BEAVER ISLAND For pilot Paul Welke, his wife, Angel, and the residents of Beaver Island, Island Airways is much more than a commuter airline—it’s a way of life and a lifeline.

54 | BEACH DAYS Soak up buoyant, blissful beach-town vibes in Elk Rapids, Beulah and Northport.

64 | TRAVERSE TURNS 40!

Take a peek inside our 40-year celebration of the North and look back at some of our favorite features—from conservation triumphs to classic summer staples.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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contents | departments

27

81

69

Always the unique and unexpected since 1986

7 | EDITOR’S NOTE

81 | DRINKS

11 | UP NORTH

Sip new releases from Old Mission Peninsula wineries.

It’s our birthday! Thank you to our incredible subscribers. Plus, more local businesses and organizations celebrating anniversaries.

82 | OUTDOORS Northern Pike are aggressive.

Our writer is ready.

21 | JUNE EVENTS

84 | LOVE OF THE LAND

Ways to (safely!) celebrate summer.

A new trail for mountain bikers.

27 | TRAVEL

ON THE COVER

Mackinac Island’s lilacs are legendary.

Power Island Photo by Tony Demin

29 | UP IN MICHIGAN Summer cottages hold a special place in our hearts.

Frida-Style!

Mexican Colonial designs, hand wrought in Sterling Silver.

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69 | DINING We’ve never been more excited for the start of barbecue season.

74 | LOCAL TABLE And don’t even think about hosting a BBQ without these local potato chips.

facebook.com/mynorthmedia instagram.com/mynorthmedia pinterest.com/mynorthmedia

You belong on a A MyNorth Media Publication VOLUME 40 • NUMBER 1

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Deborah Wyatt Fellows

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Michael Wnek

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, (ISSN10713719) is published monthly

by Prism Publications Inc., 125 S Park Street, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. Periodicals class postage paid at Traverse City, MI 49684 and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine, 125 Park St, Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684.

Advertising rates available upon request. Subscription rate: $24.95 for 12 issues.

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN ’20

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editor’s note

THE EXHILARATION OF THE NORTH

BY DEBORAH WYATT FELLOWS

T

his issue represents an exciting milestone for Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine: It is our 40th June issue and kicks off a year of celebration. And while this issue is not being celebrated in print, it is big and beautiful and filled with both present-day splendor and lots of fun looking back. Our editorial team scoured years of old issues and discovered so much they wanted to highlight that we simply can’t get it all into one issue. So, we will keep the 40th-anniversary look-backs going throughout the whole year.

And because June is arriving in your inbox as a digital issue, we included something really fun: the complete first issue of Traverse. As you will see, it is a far, far cry from the Traverse of today. At that time, we could only afford eight pages of color, I shot the cover and, sadly, designed the pages.

Four of us worked from lawn chairs at sawhorse desks built by my brother, my college Smith Corona was balanced on stacked milk crates and we had one black rotary phone. Yep, very different from who we are today.

But you will also see so many things in that first issue that have never changed. Our mission, stated in the front of the magazine, still matches the mission we pursue today. Staffers, from the very first issue through all our print and digital products today, wake up every day with the mission to celebrate and protect Northern Michigan.

Of course, there wasn’t as much food

and drink in that first issue, but you will see the core of how we hoped to capture slices of an entire region we’ve loved right from the beginning...

You’ll also see pages filled with ads from small entrepreneurs, fellow Northern Michigan dreamers who chose to pursue a passion and hang a sign. It is incredible to look back and see advertising from businesses still in existence today and others gone, all of whom put their trust in us when the magazine had not ever yet been printed. That trust is still one of our greatest honors.

That first issue, our looks back and fresh content in the current issue are all a part of a thread unbroken for 40 years. People often ask us, “Do you ever run out of things to write about?”

I always reply that we have the opposite problem: We so often have to leave wonderful ideas on the cutting room floor, hoping to weave them into a future issue. This has always been true, as you’ll see when you come upon the many ways we are celebrating, past and present, in this issue: dreamers dedicated to conservation, the arts, outdoor adventures, our small towns, local businesses, classic Northern experiences, craft food and drink, remarkable history and, of course, just the region’s sheer beauty.

I’ve written a lot of anniversary columns over these decades, so for this one, written while we are all still social distancing at home, I thought I’d just dip back into history and share an old column about the taste of freedom

that we will all experience again. As I do, let me just express my gratitude to every staffer who has dedicated time and talent to MyNorth, every small entrepreneur who has given us the privilege of connecting their dream to people who truly value those dreams, and you, our subscribers, who put your faith in us to capture, celebrate and protect this place of our hearts every single month—even through COVID-19. We truly are all in this together. And the exhilaration of the North will be ours again.

At one time, I imagine her to have been a stunning red. Her freshly varnished seats and oars must have glistened a copper brown and her oarlocks shone silver. But by the time I saw her, shoved unceremoniously under some shrubs at the beach, her glory had faded. She was nothing more than a castaway rowboat; peeling paint carpeting the sand around her, seats guaranteeing only splinters. No one else in my world gave her a thought, and that was my good fortune.

My older brother and sisters were far too smitten with our powerful inboard to be concerned with a broken-down rowboat. Granted, given the choice between captaining the powerboat or the rowboat, I’d have gone for the bigger, faster, newer. But there was a line of captains ahead of me. If I was allowed on the big boat at all, it was only as a passenger, and I was regularly the first booted off if 4

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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Celebrating 42 years

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editor’s note there was a crowd. It was the rowboat, scruffy and small, that would be my ticket to adventure.

In it, I explored crevices of the shoreline or bobbed about in the center of the lake, lazily imagining what sorts of man-eating fish lurked in the black waters below. I rowed all the way to the little village in search of forbidden Lik-M-Aid candy, which I would devour in its entirety on my way home, leaving the oars sticky and my mouth stained a telltale green or orange that not even a swim would fade.

Of course, it took me forever to get anywhere; the boat was wide and heavy and my arms would ache as I struggled home through the saturated colors of a late afternoon. But I never really cared. In fact, I never took much notice of the effort involved at all until one of our neighbors went home and left us their 10-horsepower engine. It was decided that the motor should be mounted on the old rowboat. At first, I balked. Not only did I not want the added weight, I knew the motor would make her a good deal more attractive to the others.

I was still balking as my brother made me pull the cord, again and again, insisting that I learn to start the motor myself. It started, finally, with a roar and a kick that knocked my knees out from under me and sat me down hard on the seat. There was only time for a panicked glance back toward my brother as he yelled instructions from the beach.

But then, there I was, flying across the lake, and I knew my rowing days were over. Suddenly, the sky was the limit, the world a place of boundless opportunity. I knew freedom and absolute exhilaration as I soared into the beauty of the lake. And I was sure my faded, red rowboat felt just the same way.

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JUN ’20

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Up North

PEOPLE | NATURE | ARTS | NOSTALGIA | BUZZ | WISDOM | CURIOSITIES 07

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

Rent an Island Cabin page 27

plus

Surfing Lake Michigan?

Summer beach reads

JUN ’20

AUGUST 2005

11

up north | traverse turns 40

LOOKING BACK

A first time for everything in the Grand Traverse Region.

FIRST HOME: The first home in the region was built in 1847 by Horace Boardman. After constructing a sawmill near the mouth of what is now called the Boardman River, he decided to make his home near the present day 8th Street and Boardman Avenue in Traverse City. The house was only 16 feet by 24 feet and made from pine logs hewn with a broad axe. It was known as the blockhouse and eventually destroyed by fire.

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FIRST FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION: The exact year is not recorded, but the first celebration in the area was held in Northport in the mid-1800s. All available guns were gathered, and with a cannon provided by an old sailor, the settlers saluted the United States.

FIRST MAIL AND POST OFFICE: The region’s first mail was delivered in 1844 by John Campbell. It consisted of two letters and a religious magazine.

W.R. Stone set up the first post office in 1851 on Old Mission. As the postmaster, Stone received no salary, and he kept the mail in an old raisin box nailed to the wall of his kitchen.

Information for this article, first featured in the January 1987 issue of Traverse, was adapted from “A History of the Grand Traverse Region” by Dr. M.C. Leach (Central Michigan University Press: 1964) and “Vinegar Pie and Other Tales of the Grand Traverse Region” by Al Barnes (Wayne State University Press: 1959).

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Traverse Classics

BY B RIA

N CO N

FER

Take a look back at some of our favorite stories from over the years.

PHOTO

We think birthdays are a big deal, so we’re going to be celebrating all year long by sharing Traverse classics online at MyNorth.com and in print (watch for more 40th-anniversary content in the July issue! ). Sign up for our free Daily Splash newsletter so you don’t miss out on the fun. MyNorth.com/Newsletters

THE FISHERMAN WHO SAVED FISHTOWN FEATURED IN JULY 2007

O BY T PHOT

ODD

T Z AWIS

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Back in 1971, only a fool would have bought the broken-down old fishing shanties on the banks of the Leland River. Thankfully, Bill Carlson thought differently. Read the full story: MyNorth.com/Fishtown

THE TALE OF THE LONG-LOST DUNESMOBILE FEATURED IN JULY 2013 In 1948, Detroit was rebounding from World War II and automobiles, not bomber planes, were rolling off the assembly lines. Among the cars: 10 shiny black Ford convertibles—the Dunesmobiles. Read the full story: MyNorth.com/Dunesmobile

A DEATH-DEFYING DIVE FEATURED IN NOVEMBER 2007 Before it was illegal to dive to the Edmund Fitzgerald, two men pulled off the deepest shipwreck scuba dive in Great Lakes history. Read the full story: MyNorth.com/DivingEdmund

PHOTO BY BRIAN CONFER

SUPERIOR SANCTUARY FEATURED IN DECEMBER 2001 On a windswept coast of the U.P., a small band of devoted monks runs a bakery. The Jampot draws thousands of visitors each summer. Read the full story: MyNorth.com/Jampot

LIFE OF A LIGHTHOUSE KEEPER FEATURED IN JUNE 2002 For 41 years, Elizabeth Whitney Williams trimmed wicks and tended beacons that lit the waters of Lake Michigan in the late 1800s—both on Beaver Island and in Harbor Springs. Read the full story: MyNorth.com/LighthouseKeeper

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BY TO

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THE LIFE OF LUDINGTON’S CARTIER MANSION FEATURED IN FEBRUARY 2009 The story of any house begins with the dreamer who builds it—in this case Warren Cartier. In 1903, when Warren moved his family into the new home, it was the finest the city of Ludington had ever seen, built of Roman brick and boasting the latest in modern conveniences. But what were Warren’s intentions? Read the full story: MyNorth.com/Cartier

PHIL NOWICKI’S 8,773-FOOT SAUSAGE FEATURED IN AUGUST 2007 On a hot night, a gutsy 20-year-old set out to create a meat marvel unlike any the world had ever seen. The great sausage of 1977 was quite the sight. Read the full story: MyNorth.com/HistoricSausage Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN ’20

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Wish You Were Here

Deliver yourself back in time with some grand old postcards by prolific Traverse City photographer Orson W. Peck (1875–1954).

PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE TRAVERSE AREA DISTRICT LIBRARY AND THE TRAVERSE AREA HISTORICAL SOCIETY. LOCALHISTORY.TADL.ORG

THE WAY IT WAS JAMES HENDRYX From the early ‘20s until his death in 1963, the colorful Suttons Bay novelist churned out tales of his most famous character, Black John Smith. We profiled him posthumously: “Sometimes in the winter, when snow closed the roads on Lee Point, Hendryx would have the hired man clear a path to the shore of the bay and drive off in the car over the ice to Traverse City. One time, after a day of poker playing and grocery shopping in town, the car broke through the ice on the return trip. Hendryx salvaged some of the groceries before the car sank in the freezing waters. A farmer happened along and yelled, ‘What in the world are you doing, Jim?’ Hendryx yelled back, ‘I’m starting a grocery store, you darned fool. What did you think I was doing?’”

—August 1987. Read the full story at MyNorth.com/Hendryx

MARGARET THOMPSON DAY TRAVIS The daughter of D.H. Day, the notable lumberman and conservationist called “King David of the North,” recounted the family’s annual Christmas pilgrimage from Glen Haven to the “fleshpot” of Traverse City: “The journey began with an eight-mile sleigh ride to the nearest railroad at Empire. Father looked magnificent in a burly raccoon coat; Mother was splendid in unaccustomed sealskin and ostrich plumes; and, of course, we children were under furskin robes and swathed in mounds of coats, veils and muffs.”

—December 1986, Read the full story at MyNorth.com/ChristmasPilgrimage

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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STAFF MOMENTS We’ve been lucky to have extraordinary people lend their talents to Traverse over the decades, and even luckier to have so many stay for so long. The team has had some pretty special adventures over the years. Here are a few of the highlights.

LISSA EDWARDS » Time at Traverse: 32 years » Former Position: Staff Writer » Current Position: Managing Editor “I was interviewing James Earl Jones on the phone for a story on his old one-room schoolhouse days in Dublin (near Manistee). He told me how he'd wet his pants on his first day of school and thought the teacher would whip him. Instead she gave him a big hug and a change of clothes. At the end of the interview I said: ‘Well, James Earl, I am going to tell my five-year-old son that I talked to Darth Vader on the phone.’ He said: ‘You tell him Darth Vader wet his pants.’”

JEFF SMITH » Time at Traverse: 24.5 years (a break after the first five years, only to then return home) » Former Positions: Freelance Writer, Assistant Editor, Associate Editor, Managing Editor, Editorial Director, Editor “I was working on a story about sturgeon recovery, and I learned of a DNR fisheries team that was going out to a sturgeon spawning area on a river near L’Anse to get eggs and milt for a hatchery. I drove up. It was a sunny, late-April day, and we—eight people or so—carried nets and buckets about a mile through the woods to where the sturgeon were spawning. The river was wide and rocky, but only thigh deep, and the sturgeon were all over the place, tucked among the rocks.

Somebody would net a 3- or 4-foot-long sturgeon and haul it to shore, and then a biologist would squeeze the fish to push out the eggs or semen, which were saved and sent to a hatchery. Then they released the fish. The sturgeon is such an amazing animal—a species more than 200 million years old, smooth skin instead of scales, the bony skeleton protruding, and females can live to 150 years. The fish that day were about 50 to 70 pounds, but the biggest Lake Michigan sturgeon on record is 300 pounds! Anyway, it was a spectacular day.

In my memory, everything is backlit, and wet, and glistening and all so richly elemental and smelling of spring.”

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THERESA BURAU-BAEHR » Time at Traverse: 21 years » Former Positions: Intern, Graphic Designer » Current Position: Production Director “My first child was due in three days. We were on deadline for our Holiday Guide, and I was trying to get as much done as I could before leaving. At 9 a.m. I was standing at the fax machine chatting with our office manager while sending an ad proof and my water broke! I continued working until my husband could pick me up and take me to the hospital. My son was born at 10:47 p.m.”

ELLYN TARRANT » Time at Traverse: 20 Years » Former Positions: Associate Editor, Senior Editor of Traverse and Northern Home & Cottage “Everyone lucky enough to call Northern Michigan home has a story.

My greatest joy as an editor was finding and hearing hundreds of them. From Bay Harbor to Benzie County, I never met a family who didn’t exude warmth and hospitality. One woman from Ohio, though, touched my heart in a special way. I wrote a piece on her vacation home in Harbor Springs and we connected over similar interests, including my oldest son and her only daughter being the same age. We began exchanging Christmas cards, a tradition that continues today. But our story doesn’t stop there. In February of 2015, we tragically lost one of our young daughters. On a snowy night that following December, there was a knock on our front door. It was my Harbor Springs friend, whom I hadn’t seen since the original interview. She was in Traverse City picking up guests from the airport and detoured to our house with a splendid Christmas arrangement and warm hugs of condolence for us all. I will never forget that moment, which sums up my 20-year career with Traverse Magazine perfectly. Northerners care about this place and each other. There’s no better story than that.”

CAROLYN FAUGHT » Time at Traverse: 10 Years » Former Positions: Circulation and Marketing Director, Editorial Assistant, Managing Editor “The most memorable story I wrote took me out to a bear den near Cadillac with the DNR, which was doing state-wide research. It was 1995, late winter and a balmy 15 degrees. We snowshoed through swamp and forest, listening for a radio signal transmitted from a collar worn by bears in the study. Once we located the den, I watched as the biologist injected the drowsy creature with a drug that would temporarily relax and alter its nervous system. They gently pulled ‘Big Red’ from his den, weighed, measured and replaced the battery around his neck collar. Two other things I recall: I threw my back out scooting under a fallen tree and was so distracted at 6 a.m. on my way to report the story that I drove away from the Holiday gas station without paying. The police called me later to let me know and were very understanding!”

Thank You, Subscribers!

Some of you have been with us from the very beginning, back when the first issue came out in June 1981, and some of you are joining us for the first time in June 2020. And we are so lucky. Lucky to know people like you, people who are as passionate about protecting and celebrating Northern Michigan as we are; lucky to see the photos you send us; lucky to hear your stories about your cabins and memories and families. We are all kindred spirits, and your support has meant the world to us. Cheers to this aweinspiring place and to you, friends!

JUDITH AND I WERE CHARTER SUBSCRIBERS, FROM THE VERY FIRST ISSUE. DEB FELLOWS ONCE TOLD ME SHE REMEMBERED PUTTING OUR LABEL ON AN EARLY ISSUE, BACK IN THE DAY WHEN YOU PUT ADDRESS LABELS ON MANUALLY. WE HONEYMOONED HERE IN 1961, UP FROM MT. PLEASANT, MICHIGAN. WE NEVER DISCUSSED RETIRING HERE, NOR DID WE NEED TO DO SO. WE JUST KNEW IT WOULD HAPPEN.” —Kennard W.

—The MyNorth Team

We want to give a special shout out to our 20 longest continual subscribers.

I FIRST CAME UPON TRAVERSE WHILE WAITING IN AN ATTORNEY'S OFFICE IN THE EARLY 1980S. FAVORITE PLACES ARE TAHQUAMENON FALLS AND MACKINAC ISLAND'S GRAND HOTEL. I'M 90 YEARS OLD AND MY TIME MIGHT EXPIRE BEFORE COMPLETING THE TASK—I HAVE NOT EXPLORED UPPER MICHIGAN VERY MUCH COMPARED TO THE LOWER PENINSULA. I LIKE THE HUMAN-INTEREST STORIES AND USUALLY SPEND AN EVENING OR TWO GOING THROUGH THE MAGAZINE, EVEN STOPPING TO READ THE ADVERTISEMENTS AS INSPIRATION. I FEEL EXTREMELY FORTUNATE TO HAVE BEEN BORN IN NORTHPORT AND TO HAVE HAD THE OPPORTUNITY TO ENJOY THE AREA WITHOUT TRAVELING THOUSANDS OF MILES.”

Carolyn & Vince F., Traverse City, June 1, 1981 Kennard W., Traverse City, June 1, 1981 Richard O., Traverse City, June 1, 1981 Marvin L., Traverse City, April 1, 1983 Gil & Anne B., Lake Leelanau, January 1, 1984 Kendall P., Northport, January 1, 1984 Linda B., Traverse City, January 1, 1984 David C., Petoskey, January 1, 1984 RH W., Charlevoix, February 1, 1984 John S., Suttons Bay, March 1, 1984 Francis G., Traverse City, April 1, 1984 J. L., Bloomfield Hills, May 1, 1984 John S., Huntington Woods, August 1, 1984 Barbara S., Northbridge, MA, September 1, 1984 William F., Traverse City, September 1, 1984 Dick H., Williamsburg, September 1, 1984 Richard B., Charlevoix, September 1, 1984 Robert B., Traverse City, October 1, 1986

—Kendall P.

William F., Destin, FL, November 1, 1984 Thomas D., Lorain, OH, November 1, 1984

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN ’20

17

Celebrating Local Stewardship

BY ALLISON JARRELL | PHOTO BY MATT CARISSIMI

It’s impossible to celebrate our 40th anniversary at Traverse without also honoring the small businesses and nonprofit organizations that have supported our endeavors through the years and continue to make Northern Michigan such a special place to live and visit. These entrepreneurs are the backbone of our communities, and now more than ever, it’s vital that we support them as they’ve supported us.

In their first year, NMEAC: took a stance against fish ladders in the Boardman River, launched a petition drive to designate Sand Lakes Quiet Area as a natural or wild area in order to protect it from oil and gas development, participated in a statewide oil recycling program and sponsored film screenings on topics like toxic waste, solar energy and technology to increase public awareness.

Congratulations to all of the local businesses and nonprofits celebrating milestone anniversaries this year, as well as those who are simply celebrating another year of being in business.

Today, NMEAC’s 500-plus members are concentrated in a fivecounty region in Northwestern Michigan including Grand Traverse, Leelanau, Benzie, Kalkaska and Antrim counties. The all-volunteer organization continues to operate with a simple mission: “Preserving the natural environment through citizen action and education.”

40 YEARS OF CHAMPIONING NORTHERN MICHIGAN’S WILDERNESS As we flipped through the first editions of Traverse, we noticed a feature in October 1981 on the creation of the Northern Michigan Environmental Action Council (NMEAC).

Reflecting on their first year, Sally Olson wrote that the council had discovered “concern for the environment is shared by people from all walks of life ... it is a coalition of individuals who see the direct connection between the earth and our health and well-being and survival.” Olson described NMEAC as being “composed of people who believe that growth and technology can occur only within the limits of clean air, water and the natural beauty of this area.”

Formed in 1980 on the Old Mission Peninsula, the group found there was a dire need for an organization dedicated to dealing with environmental education, awareness and problems. Their goals at the time included promoting bike paths, working on a full-scale recycling program for the area and setting up a network in order to better communicate information on environmental issues.

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And there’s been plenty of action—the group’s first lawsuit came in 1986 over the Bayview Mall proposed for city parkland. The suit forced a city-wide referendum, and voters ultimately defeated the proposal. The NMEAC board went on to face numerous issues in the 1990s, including: the Horizon Mall, Grand Traverse Mall, proposed Hammond-Hartmann bypass, pollution on Boardman Lake, the fate of the Grand Traverse Commons and renewable energy (to name just a few). NMEAC also created the annual Environmentalist of the Year (EOY) Awards in 1988, and today, EOY recognizes people in 10 categories.

NMEAC has accomplished so much over the last four decades, and we wish them continued success over the next four. As Olson wrote back in 1981, “There is much to be done. We face complicated questions as we strive to live within the limits of the environment that sustains us.” NMEAC.ORG

History of Success

When we asked local businesses and nonprofits to send us their anniversaries, our staff received nearly 200 responses ranging from one year to 151! The sampling of businesses below is a testament to the staying power of the region’s oldest institutions:

100 YEARS Rotary Club of Traverse City (Read the centennial story at MyNorth.com/TCRotary)

101 YEARS Petoskey Regional Chamber of Commerce

105 YEARS Traverse City Country Club

107 YEARS

DID YOU KNOW? The schooner Madeline is also celebrating an anniversary—it’s been three decades since the 56-foot-tall twin-masted ship was hand-built by a team of 165 Maritime Heritage Alliance volunteers (work began in 1985 and finished in 1990).

A replica of an 1840's commercial vessel, Madeline is an official ambassador for Traverse City and sails annually to ports across the Great Lakes, serving as a floating center for the interpretation of maritime history. When she’s not on tour, Madeline is berthed at Elmwood Township’s Discovery Pier on West Bay Shore Drive, just south of the Elmwood Township Marina.

The Maritime Heritage Alliance tells us they have volunteers well into their 90s who helped build the vessel and are still actively crewing her today. The schooner’s 30th birthday is especially impressive because the original boat that Madeline is modeled after only lasted a third of the time she has (talk about fine craftsmanship!). MARITIMEHERITAGEALLIANCE.ORG

PHOTO BY ANGELA BROWN

Plath’s Meats, Petoskey Swensen Memorials, Traverse City

125 YEARS Mackinac State Historic Parks Colonial Inn, Harbor Springs

130 YEARS McGough's, Traverse City

143 YEARS Cheboygan Opera House

144 YEARS Bahle’s of Suttons Bay

146 YEARS Votruba Leather Goods, Traverse City

151 YEARS Old Mission Inn, Traverse City

To view a complete list of the small business anniversaries we received, visit MyNorth.com/BizAnniversaries.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN ’20

19

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TIX Look for this symbol in our events listings and get your tickets at MyNorthTickets.com.

June

ED ITED BY CAR LY SI MPSO N

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NATIONAL ROCKY ROAD DAY Pick up a pint of this classic chocolate marshmallow mashup from Moomers in Traverse City (also sold in markets across the north). moomers.com/about/ where-to-buy NATIONAL RUNNING DAY A few of our fave running spots: Lake Ann Pathway, Lake Ann; Vasa Pathway, Traverse City; Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail, Glen Arbor; Grass River Natural Area, Bellaire.

NATIONAL DOUGHNUT DAY Get Clare’s Cops & Doughnuts or bust(ed). Find the bakery’s incredible story at MyNorth.com/Doughnuts.

NATIONAL BLACK BEAR DAY Do you know what to do if you encounter a bear? Find out at MyNorth.com/BlackBear.

At the time of production, many June events were canceled due to COVID-19, but we've come up with some great ways to spend the month. Visit MyNorth.com/Events to find community happenings throughout the year.

SAT

NATIONAL TRAILS DAY Five awesome trails for summer on page 23.

TUE

NATIONAL STRAWBERRY RHUBARB PIE DAY Save us a slice, Grand Traverse Pie Company! gtpie.com

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NATIONAL CORN ON THE COB DAY There’s a secret to perfectly grilled corn on the cob.

MyNorth.com/GrillSecret NATIONAL ROSÉ DAY Cheers to Northern Michigan rosé! Here’s where to find a local bottle: MyNorth.com/ northern-michigan-wineries NATIONAL STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE DAY The best strawberry shortcake starts with a flaky biscuit base.

Find the recipe on page 25.

SUN

NATIONAL CHILDREN’S DAY So many ways to play Up North at MyNorth.com/ KidsActivities.

WED

NATIONAL APPLE STRUDEL DAY A nearly effortless strudel recipe awaits you on page 25.

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SUMMER SOLSTICE

SUN

FATHER’S DAY Fire up the grill!

MyNorth.com/Grilling

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NATIONAL CAMERA DAY A local photographer shares tips on page 23.

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Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN ’20

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june | events

NATIONAL CAMERA DAY JUNE 29 Northern Michigan is flush with scenic views. But that’s no guarantee you’ll get a memorable photo. Landscape photographer Heather Higham (snaphappygal.com) says there’s a good reason for that: Making landscape shots that aren’t forgettable is one of the more daunting tasks for amateurs. There are, however, some simple things you can do to up your game. Try these tips:

NATIONAL TRAILS DAY JUNE 6 Get out and celebrate our state’s truly incredible trails this summer. Here are a few to get you started: » ARCADIA DUNES There are 3,600 acres to explore at the Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy's C.S. Mott Nature Preserve. It's known for its mind-blowing view of Lake Michigan from the top of Old Baldy dune. But there’s more—way more—namely 15 miles of trail through dune, forest, meadow and swamp. Favorites include the Dry Hill and Camp trails along with the universally accessible Overlook Trail. Get there: Access to the Overlook and Baldy trails is off M-22, about 4 miles north of Arcadia. » MICHIGAN LEGACY ART PARK Tucked in Thompsonville, the outdoor art park’s 2-mile trail treats visitors to more than 40 works of art along the way. Open daily from dawn to dusk; $5 per adult, children free. Get there: Enter Crystal Mountain at the main entrance on M-115. Turn left at the first stop sign onto Crystal Mountain Drive, then follow signs to the art park. » AVALANCHE MOUNTAIN PRESERVE There are 462 steps to the top of Avalanche, where you’ll find a viewing platform with a Lake Charlevoix vista. The more than 300-acre preserve in Boyne City has separate walking and biking trails. Get there: 1129 Wilson Street, about 1 mile southwest of Boyne City High School.

PHOTO BY KELLY REWA

» CHAPEL LOOP This 10-mile loop offers some of the best views of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore.

It starts at the Chapel Basin parking lot, passes Chapel Falls, the famous Chapel Rock and Chapel Beach, then continues along the cliffs to Mosquito River and Beach and past Mosquito Falls. Get there: The parking lot is accessed off CR-695 (Chapel Road) in Munising Township. » LEELANAU TRAIL Connecting Traverse City to Suttons Bay, the 17-mile paved trail runs along a former railroad corridor, taking walkers, runners and bikers past forests, farms, vineyards, lakes and ponds.

Get there: Find three trailheads with parking along the trail at Cherry Bend Road, Fouch Road and 4th Street in Suttons Bay.

» Wait for interesting light.

That means passing up shots in the intense midday sun and seeking out light that casts longer shadows; start shifting to the red spectrum and add more contrast to your scene (the hours around sunrise and sunset are prime windows). » Heather says Northern Michigan has wide horizons, so make sure you have something interesting in your foreground, midground and background to add depth and interest. » If you are shooting the horizon, make sure it’s straight; most cameras and phones have levels, and Instagram even has a filter that will fix a crooked horizon. » Most importantly, be certain your shot is actually in focus.

“That might mean tapping your phone screen a few times,” Heather says.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN ’20

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june | events

NATIONAL STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE DAY JUNE 14 Achieve sublime strawberry shortcake with these flaky biscuits.

TIP: Before you make your biscuits, prep your strawberry topping. Chop strawberries, mix with a little sugar and let sit for about 30 minutes so the mixture gets sweet and juicy!

FLAKY HOMESTYLE BISCUITS YIELDS 8 BISCUITS Just add a pinch of cinnamon and sugar for a perfect strawberry shortcake. Recipe courtesy of Michelle Rodriguez, personal chef/caterer at Amor Comida. facebook.com/AmorComida 2

cups flour

1

tablespoon baking powder

K teaspoon salt 1

stick of cold unsalted butter

O cup milk Preheat oven to 450°F.

PHOTOS BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

In a large mixing bowl sift together flour, baking powder and salt. Grate a cold stick of butter (straight from the fridge) on a cheese grater and mix into flour with a fork. Pour milk into flour mixture while stirring with a fork. Mix in milk just until dough is moist and pulls away from the side of the bowl.

NATIONAL APPLE STRUDEL DAY JUNE 17 This crackly strudel is fragrant and comforting, and it comes together nearly effortlessly with the help of frozen phyllo dough. Adapted from Savoring the Seasons of the Northern Heartland by Beth Dooley and Lucia Watson.

APPLE STRUDEL SERVES 8 4

cups diced apple

Grated zest of 1 orange

Juice of 1 orange

N cup dark brown sugar 1

teaspoon vanilla extract

K teaspoon ground cinnamon K teaspoon ground nutmeg K cup dried cherries (optional) 1

package frozen phyllo dough, thawed

K cup (1 stick) butter, melted K cup finely crushed graham crackers Heat oven to 375°F. Lightly grease large cookie sheet. In medium-sized bowl stir apples, orange zest, orange juice, brown sugar, vanilla extract, cinnamon, nutmeg and dried cherries to mix well.

Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface. No need to knead the dough, the less you touch it the flakier the biscuits will be. Use a bench scraper and press dough together if it's a little crumbly. Roll dough into a 3/4-inch-thick sheet and cut with a floured or oiled biscuit or cookie cutter. Don't turn the cutter, just press straight down.

Place two sheets of phyllo on wax paper, slightly overlapping the sheets with the long side facing you. Keep remaining sheets covered with a dampened kitchen towel. Brush first phyllo layer lightly with butter. Sprinkle with graham cracker crumbs. Top with two more sheets, brush with butter, and sprinkle with graham cracker crumbs. Repeat procedure with remaining phyllo sheets until you have used eight sheets.

Spoon apple filling across the lower third of the phyllo stack, leaving a 2-inch border along the bottom and both sides. Fold the side borders over the filling; brush with butter. Roll up jellyroll fashion, starting with the edge closest to you.

Brush the tops of the biscuits with melted butter. For sweet biscuits, sprinkle a little granulated sugar on top; for savory, sprinkle a little sea salt. Place biscuits on ungreased baking sheets and bake until golden brown, about 10–12 minutes.

Place strudel, seam side down, on prepared cookie sheet; brush liberally with butter. Bake 30-40 minutes, or until brown and crispy. Remove to wire rack to cool. Serve warm or at room temperature with whipped cream.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN ’20

25

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what to do | travel

Lilacs of Mackinac

BY ALLISON JARRELL | PHOTO BY KELLY REWA

There’s something so singular about the ambrosial, heady perfume that wafts from the multicolored lilac trees that bloom on Mackinac Island each June. The clusters of blossoms that coat the island in its signature floral fragrance (mixed, of course, with notes of freshly made fudge and the occasional road apple) mark the beginning of another sweet, serene summer season.

But why there are so many lilacs on the island? And how did they get there? Before you frolic among the flora, get up to speed on Mackinac’s beloved shrub:

The Hubbards began farming on the west side of the island and planted lilacs—even naming their summer cottage “The Lilacs.” Today, this area—known as Hubbard’s Annex—is home to lilac stems that are about 100 years old. These stems are the offspring of older stems that were also about 100 years old.

So, Jeff deduces that lilacs have existed on Mackinac Island for about 200 years—he knows of no older or larger stems in the U.S. or Canada.

MACKINAC’S LILACS ARE THE LARGEST IN THE COUNTRY. THE FIRST RECORD OF MACKINAC’S LILACS DATES BACK TO THE 1800S. The earliest written documentation of lilacs on the island comes from a journal Henry David Thoreau kept during his visit to Mackinac in 1861. The evidence surfaced during a talk given by Corinne Smith, a member of the Thoreau Society from Massachusetts, who was on the island to discuss her research in 2016. When asked if Thoreau had written about lilacs, Corinne said his journal did, in fact, include a single mention of them above a line about apple trees.

LILACS AREN’T NATIVE TO MACKINAC ISLAND. Lilacs are actually native to the Balkan Peninsula, and when European immigrants came to New England, they brought lilacs with them, planting the flowers near their farms for good luck. With the discovery of Thoreau’s journal entry, the theory holds that 19th-century immigrants, like a New Hampshire man by the name of Gurdon Hubbard, brought the first lilacs to Mackinac.

Hubbard and his family moved to the island in 1870, says Jeff Young, a master gardener who serves as the horticulturist for the island’s Lilac Festival. (Hubbard had visited previously in 1818 at the age of 16, employed by a fur trading company.)

All 23 species of Syringa vulgaris (about 400 varieties) thrive on the island thanks to growing conditions that suit lilacs perfectly—shallow, well-drained soil with a high pH level from underlying limestone. Plenty of rainfall and a good hardening each winter have strengthened Mackinac’s specimens over time, and horticulturists have confirmed that they are the largest in the country. (Some stems are larger than 2 feet across at the base!)

THE LILAC FESTIVAL WAS CREATED TO ATTRACT VISITORS AFTER WORLD WAR II. With the building of more homes on Mackinac in the late 1800s, came the planting of more lilacs. Then, following the events of World War II, the annual Lilac Festival was created in 1949 to attract more visitors. Mackinac residents, businesses and the state park all played an important role in planting lilacs across the island.

Read more about Mackinac’s blossoms at MYNORTH.COM/LILACS.

Several events scheduled as part of the 72nd Annual Mackinac Island Lilac Festival have been canceled this year due to COVID-19 concerns. At the time of publication, recreational travel to the island was not advised. To stay up to date on travel advisories and event schedules, visitmackinacisland.org/ travel-advisory.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN ’20

27

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essay | up in michigan

A Timeless Gift

PHOTO BY TODD ZAWOSTOWSKI

BY DEBORAH FELLOWS

First appearing in the July 1985 issue of Traverse, this column speaks to the timeless gift of Northern Michigan we can all use right now.

It was always the smell that told me we were there. True, we had gone through all the elaborate neighborhood goodbyes, packed our favorite T-shirts and ridden packed like sardines in the station wagon for four and a half hours.

But I never really felt we were there until we unlocked the door. All the mustiness of a winter spent closed to the world came rushing out to greet us.

It carried the smell of big, old chairs that you sunk to the springs in, of a lavender day bed on the porch that sort of swallowed you up when you laid on it, of big double beds standing proudly on their four posts and covered with faded, flowered bedspreads that a dozen hands had mended. All the secrets of summers past flooded out and filled my head. It was the start of another summer Up North.

I have yet to meet anyone, young or old, who doesn’t have tremendous memories of summer cottages. Whether their stay was for a week or an entire summer, everyone agrees that there is just something different, something special about a cottage. Some of that comes from the totally nonjudgmental nature of a cottage atmosphere. No one rates the décor; no one rates the food; no one rates your behavior.

We never had a television at the cottage—and we never missed it. That box sitting prominently in the family room at home that I would plead, cry, barter a life of perfect behavior for, was quite literally forgotten. There were early morning excursions when I’d lie awake for an hour just waiting for dawn so I could glide the boat onto the lake when the mist had barely lifted. There were late-night bonfires snuggled in the Lake Michigan dunes, bundled against the evening cold and shivering to horror stories. And there

were the challenges: Who could swim the farthest out in the lake and touch the bottom, even if it meant swimming through the “seaweed?” Who could eat three bowls of Cheerios and then hang upside down from a tree for the longest without throwing up? Strains of the Beach Boys and the Beatles rang out through the screen porch, marathon games of Monopoly lay in waiting on the living room table, and at night, shrieks cut through the crickets’ chirping as someone got caught with a handful of hearts. We laughed a lot at the cottage. There was a consciousness of each other, a heightened enjoyment we didn’t take the time for quite as much as at home.

As the youngest, I spent a fair amount of time on my own. As a result, I read voraciously. My nights were filled with the fantasy of Rudyard Kipling and the mystery of Victoria Holt. I’d lie down on the porch in the early evening and strain to pick out the words as dusk set in. Someone would inevitably turn on the porch light, which brought that constant, somehow comforting sound of moths struggling against the screen in search of the light source. When we were up North, no one told me to go to bed. I could drift off to sleep on the porch with the Swiss Family Robinson resting softly on my chest.

One summer, I discovered an old book collection centering around a character named Elsie Dinsmore and given to my grandmother in the mid-1880s.

Elsie led a horribly pathetic life. The series was inundated with evil cousins, cold grandparents, the Ku Klux Klan, a completely self-centered father and a loving “Mammy.” I became obsessed.

Night after night I devoured the heartbreaking tale of Elsie’s life. Sometimes I simply had to put the book down and sob uncontrollably. It was at that point that my mom, watching me literally racked with sobs, would suggest we

go for ice cream. As we wound along tree-shrouded county roads, I would choke out an explanation of what had been done to Elsie now. By the time we reached town, all that remained of my venture in Elsie’s world was a swollen face and tear-stained T-shirt.

Some people might question the value of Elsie Dinsmore books as opposed to television. After all, all the Brady Bunch had to worry about was too many kids and not enough bathrooms. But, despite the enormous amount of ice cream my mom had to buy that summer, she fostered my interest in Elsie Dinsmore and old books in general. In fact, on trips to Traverse City, we always included a stop at Arnold’s Book Store, where, even though I was only 10 years old, they always treated me as a collector of value. To this day, the smell of an old book conjures up images of a slightly musty day bed and the rhythmic waltz of moths on the screen.

Each Friday, my dad would deposit a gaggle of gangling adolescents at the cottage doorstep—friends from downstate coming north for an adventure. It was always a treat when his cargo included my friend, Carol. Stoked with 4

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neighborhood gossip, she was a lifeline to a world that seemed far away; a lifeline I was never sure I wanted connected. One summer she reported on a Campfire Girls’ slumber party, on nightly news images of tanks and soldiers shutting off Detroit during the riots and on a new television show being advertised called The Mod Squad.

Then it was my turn to tell of my summer thus far. Well, I had gone in the swampy part of the lake to retrieve the rowboat paddle and emerged with no less than six bloodsuckers on one leg and my brother had to pour salt on them to get them off. Then there was the neighborhood barbecue when we put on an aquatic show. My oldest sister waterskied past, clad in her twopiece suit and waving to the crowd with both hands as she balanced on one ski, her free leg holding the handle of the rope tow. I had been to Cyprus Gardens the year before and assured Carol that nothing could compare to this. My brother, not to be outdone, came by next waving with both hands—the rope tow handle placed around his neck. I recalled how my mother casually put down her chicken and walked to the end of the dock with this lovely, albeit frozen, smile on her face, happily waving them to shore. I think he was grounded. Even I was fooled by mom's smile.

By the end of her stay we had forgotten about the Campfire Girls and the tanks. That was reality; summertime up North was pure fantasy. Given the choice, few people, even kids, choose reality. And, as hard as I tried, I found that I just couldn’t hold on to that fantasy after I went home. That knowledge of the inability to translate cottage life to the real world only made the summers more precious. As a family we would say that this year we would play more card games at home, we’d get that Monopoly game off the shelf in the basement. But that pit in my stomach on the day we were to leave, that very real ache in my heart as I stood on the dock for the last time, told me that nothing would be the same tomorrow.

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EXCERPTED FROM THE UPCOMING MEMOIR, “JUST ASK: FINDING MY GREATEST GENERATION DAD’S LOVE,” BY EMILY GUZIAK

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It is dark and deliciously scary when my mom, sister Betsy, brother Robby, our dog Chessie (we had to put a muzzle on him) and I walk up the wide, dirty red wooden steps to the S.S. Badger car ferry in Milwaukee. “If he doesn’t make it,” I ask Mom, “will he come tomorrow?” Our dad has stayed with the car to get it safely onto the ferry.

My older sister Betsy says, “He always makes it, Emily,” and makes a quiet “duh” sound without Mom hearing. But I don’t care. We are on our way to Watervale. I lift my right leg as high as I can to take the last, giant step onto the ferry, and look up to see the man in a double-breasted blue blazer with rows of shiny brass buttons extending his hand to help me over this last, big step.

I am an anxious baby boomer child, never quite feeling secure around my ambitious, emotionally-reserved father, but once we are on our way to Watervale, I feel little anxiety around him. I smile big when he finds us, knowing our family will be together for the six hours it takes to cross the lake from Milwaukee to Ludington.

Dad inserts a very long, thin silver key into the door of a “secret bedroom”—a stateroom with a toilet, a sink and a window to the outside. We tug on handles on the wall and out pops a freshly made bed with crisp white sheets and a thick brown wool blanket. Betsy and I lie head to toe in the single bed, and the next morning we hear a sharp rap on our stateroom door and a man announcing “Ludington.”

“Are you 5?” Dad asks me, looking up from signing the index card-sized registration at the glass-topped front desk in the inn. I peer up at him, smiling, because I know he is the Watervale Dad now and he will be happy all week. “No,” I giggle. “I’m 4. And Robby’s 7, I think.”

“Betsy’s 9,” Robby offers, as he hops on one foot while Dad completes the card with his long, slanted handwriting. “Can I go get the boat?”

Because Robby is a boy, he is allowed to row our boat all alone, along the shore, to our cottage—the rest of us ride in the brown Buick down the dirt road. Dad lifts

the big, tan, leather-trimmed suitcase out of the trunk and puts it into one of the three tiny bedrooms. We don’t take time to unpack, and it is only minutes before we are in our bathing suits, encased in our faded pink life jackets and Dad is rowing us in the heavy green metal rowboat to the outlet—a wide stream of water connecting the smaller inland Lower Herring Lake to Lake Michigan—where we will play for hours.

I am in the sand and the water all the time. There are so many sand castles Robby and I must build along the outlet that we are very, very busy. I leave the water’s edge only to gobble a hot dog charred over the fire Dad builds and drink sun-warmed lemonade, pee in the long beach grass, and to run back and forth with my plastic bucket to where Dad and Betsy hand dig a channel to keep water flowing between the two lakes.

At night, at the linen table-clothed dining room in the inn, I am sun-drenched and drowsy, with little interest in the simplycooked meat and potatoes meal, so Dad shares our plates. We are sometimes given a nickel afterward to choose an O’Henry candy bar, Hershey bar, Peppermint Pattie or Tootsie Roll from within the glass display case in the lobby.

Once back at the cottage, Dad leans over Betsy and me and nuzzles our foreheads with his “nearly a bedtime kiss but not really” show of affection. The Watervale Dad is here and I am sunburned, and even though the sand in the bed will scratch my burn, I am happy because Dad says you have to get burned to get tan. He thinks suntan lotion is dumb, but Mom is always trying to put it on us.

“It’s magic here,” my best Watervale friend Sally says. We are lying on our bellies on the Lake Michigan beach, burying our hands deeply in the warm sand until we feel cool moist pockets of water. I only see Sally at Watervale and Watervale is even better when Sally and her mom, dad and siblings, Sue and Chuck, come too. Dad stands next to our beach fire, hot dog in

one hand and an amber bottle of Stroh’s beer in the other. His best buddy from high school, Sally’s dad, Dave, drinks a beer next to him and makes Dad laugh, something I can’t do. Why, I wonder now, did my father not have a friendship like Dave’s at home?

“Take three shots,” Dad says as he hands me golf ball-sized rocks from the shore. “Then it’s Sally’s turn.” Dad reaches back with his muscled, tanned arm and tosses the brown bottle into the frothy waves of Lake Michigan. I toss my stones, trying to shatter the bottle. Bottles are frequently seen on the shoreline in the 1960s and a favorite activity is to see who can shatter the glass. The result, decades later, is rounded, smooth, multi-colored beach glass. We gather beach glass of various colors every summer and take it home. (Editor’s Note: We don’t recommend this activity today, and glass containers are no longer allowed at the beach.)

Later, on a walk, we dig out clay-like mud along the ground springs in the dunes and rub the goop on our cheeks in bold, brown stripes. “War paint,” Dad says, and helps us collect glass jars full of the mud to take home. The clay dries on our sunburned faces and cakes off, and we smear more on to keep our game alive.

Mom loves the social life beyond beach picnics, and embraces the 1960s cocktail scene, dragging Dad to cottage gatherings before dinner. In one of the most glamorous photos I have of my mother, she is sitting in our cottage, dressed for dinner in a simple knit dress, with pearl earrings, carefully applied lipstick and well-coiffed dark brown hair, the result of her beauty shop appointment the day before we left, and having avoided getting her hair wet all week. But what is most dazzling is her smile. I am 8; she is 39. I sit next to her in a simple cotton dress and smile shyly, my yetto-be restrained buck teeth protruding and hands in my lap, looking at Dave holding his Polaroid Instamatic while mom smiles as if the world is waiting for her.

OPPOSITE PAGE CLOCKWISE: STRAWBERRY BOX COTTAGE // EMILY AND DAD PLAY TENNIS // S.S. SPARTAN 1957 // OUTLOOK BETWEEN HERRING LAKE M-22 // EMILY AND MOM TAKEN WITH A POLAROID // LOOKOUT NORTH OF ARCADIA

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I WANT IT TO ALWAYS BE JUST ME, DAD, ROBBY, BETSY AND MOM AT WATERVALE. —EMILY GUZIAK

WATERVALE is a 50-mile drive north from Ludington and sits on a pristine spot of land bordering two lakes. With uncanny foresightedness, a Chicago bachelor bought the acreage in 1917, with its abandoned lumber camp hotel and cottages and welcomed his large extended family to vacation there.

The friendliness and beautiful surroundings soon attracted other vacationing families, and a niece bought it in 1960, cherishing its heritage and protecting the land from developers. By virtue of the owners’ foresightedness and generosity, combined with efforts from the Grand Traverse Regional Land Conservancy and individual contributions, Watervale’s shoreline along both lakes remains virtually the same today as when the land was purchased over 100 years ago.

Watervale is still a simple summer resort where families play on the beach, swim and take long walks. When I was young, we ate dinner nightly in the turn-of-the-century inn where tanned college girls brought us plates of baked chicken and mashed potatoes, followed by ice cream sundaes. Watervale made a major change in their menu in the early ’80s when Dori Noble Turner assumed management from her mother. Dori upgraded the meals—particularly dinner—to a more sophisticated menu and raised meal prices. The wait staff is still college kids—mostly female but there are males now, too. But the layout of the dining room and the white tablecloths, silver and dishes are exactly the same.

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I want it to always be just me, Dad, Robby, Betsy and Mom at Watervale, along with Sally and her family, because we are full up with just us and fun stuff to do. But all too soon, by the time she is 13, Betsy becomes so enamored with a summer camp in Minnesota that she will spend a year’s worth of babysitting money to help pay for 12 weeks there. It is the same time that Robby grows bored with our beach afternoons and convinces Dad to let him waterski, a gas-guzzling activity Dad disdains. And, just like that, our time all together at Watervale ends.

To Dad, the motorboat and Betsy’s absence are intrusions into our family time, and the quiet lake where he paddles a canoe with us or sails a Sunfish. While Dad would never rent a motorboat, several of the fathers chipped in to rent one from a marina and took turns zipping us around the south end of the lake. For Rob, the motorboat and the dozen kids who cluster about it is excitement. For me, the idea that we kids leave our parents for the day saddens me.

I feel a pressure between staying with Dad to make him happy, or playing with all the kids who I’d only recently joined at family beach picnics and beach fires.

In a photo taken that summer of change, my parents sit on wooden chaise lounges with thickly padded cushions in front of our cottage—Dad with a book and a satisfied smile; Mom, a saucer and cup of coffee in her hand, with a Jackie Kennedy look in a white beach jacket, earrings and lipstick.

Robby perches, bare-chested, on the edge of Mom’s chair; an eager glint in his eye hints of joining other children on the ski boat down at the lake. I kneel between the chairs, wearing cut-offs and a handme-down surfer shirt of Robby’s, a happy little-girl look on my face, and not nearly

as eager to join the older kids at the motor boat. I don’t want to lose the Watervale Dad by leaving him alone. Will he still be happy?

Dad and I lose our common ground at Watervale as I enter adolescence, and it is not until I am a teenager that we begin to spend hours on the tennis court. I am a tomboyish, self-conscious teen, uncomfortable with my femininity, and so tired of feeling like these boys, whom I once built sand castles and splashed about in the outlet with, don’t want to lay their beach towel next to mine or hold hands with me at the beach fires. I stop hanging around the motorboat, and instead volley for hours with Dad on the two Watervale courts, both of us throwing a T-shirt over our bathing suits.

In the evenings, these families we have vacationed with for many years gather on the Lake Michigan beach for a bonfire. The fathers stand to the side, chatting with cans of Stroh’s in their hands. I love sitting by the fire with Sally and watching the dancing flames, listening to the lapping waves. But almost everyone wants to run and hide in the recesses of the dunes, so we join them, our bare feet splaying the evening-chilled sand in all directions. We play Pom-PomPullaway, chasing each other, and I try to stay close to Sally. Soon a couple of the boys twist the rules, tagging girls and tumbling on the sand with them, gently inching toward the privacy of the tall grasses for a quick kiss.

All too soon each year, we boarded the boat in Ludington for home. There was a routine to our leaving that provided a comfort in tradition. We always sailed at lunch time. When I was younger and the boat had left the harbor, Mom and I would stand on the pink linoleum-covered steps leading up to the dining room to wait for

a table for lunch. Lunch in the car ferry dining room looked like lunch in a fancy restaurant, except no one seemed worried about prices.

Sometimes, the waves were so high outside in the lake, I couldn’t eat my turkey sandwich, but I always tried to because it came with fancy curlicued toothpicks in it with potato chips. When the waiter brought the sandwich, it was on a blue and white china plate with a blue boat in the middle and writing underneath—Pere Marquette.

If I didn’t eat, Dad didn’t have to pay for it because the waiter writes “seasick” on the bill. But if I did, I got to order a Dixie cup of ice cream with chocolate sauce on top. Then Betsy, Robby and I got to run all over the boat while mom took a nap in the stateroom. If she woke happy, she’d give us a dime to get a Nestle Crunch out of the vending machine in the lounge. That made it a very good day even though Watervale was over.

Dad’s ashes are buried in a small township cemetery just a short walk from Watervale. A sprinkling of childhood friends who lived in the summer magic of Watervale are returning to the area now for retirement. I combed Lower Herring Lake for a retirement home, in vain for many years.

We finally heard of one, but my husband and I ultimately decided we needed to keep the magic of Northwestern Michigan as a vacation haven, not a year-round residence.

So, I still return each summer, remembering how Dad’s sharpness softened and his anxieties melted away as he walked the Lake Michigan shoreline with me.

Emily Guziak is a freelance writer based in Vermont.

Her husband and adult children long ago gave up comparing the beauty of northern Michigan with northern Vermont, realizing they are in love with both. guziakemily335@gmail.com

OPPOSITE PAGE: NORTH BAR OUTLET 1968 // TOP: SLEEPING BEAR DUNES

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A HEX UPON ME NO SHOWERS. NO COOKING. WHEN THE MAYFLIES HATCH, IT’S ALL ABOUT THE TROUT.

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY DAVE KARCZYNSKI

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AFTER SEVERAL YEARS OF WAITING, IT WAS FINALLY HAPPENING: HEX SEASON WAS HERE.

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While it’s anyone’s guess how non-anglers understood my moaning—perhaps bewailing a hiatus from devilcraft?—my fishing friends appreciated the depth and direness of the situation. To the midwestern trout angler, the mayfly known as Hexagenia limbata is the universe’s one clear compensation for our region’s missing mountains, our absent ocean, the danger of moving through life knowing that, one day, you may be called upon to drive through Indiana. To miss Hex limbata, the great redeemer, five years in a row points to an existential crisis that asks, “What, oh angler, are you doing with your life?”

The problem lay in the fact that every year, I seemed to get a juicy writing assignment that coincided with Hex time. There was the June I spent surrounded by thousands of puckering grayling in a Polish mountain valley smeared with wildflowers. The June I spent in Alaska swinging through tiny remote tributaries looking for early run king salmon. The June I spent hammered by black flies while hammering landlocked Atlantic salmon in Labrador. But no matter how good the day had been, when I went to bed each night in one of these distant rivers, I was haunted by what I was missing out on back home in Michigan: Gigantic, demon-eyed trout with spots as big as your fist, and moonlit mudflats that went from calm to boiling in the blink of an eye. “Next year, I fish Hex,” I would whisper to myself in the darkness after the camp generator was killed, or the northern lights glittered forth above a horizon of spruce. But then winter would come again and some exotic opportunity would drift into view, and like a spring brook trout, I’d rise to it. And then, last year, I snapped. “No more,” I thought. And just to show the universe how serious I was, I bought a trout camp.

It isn’t fancy and it isn’t huge, just 10 acres at the end of a Kalkaska County two track, undeveloped but for one rotted-out late ’60s camper and a busted Jenga tower of a deer stand. But it’s just a few hundred yards from a stretch of river where the swift current slows, the cobble peters out to sand and silt and the white pine forest yields to farmland. In short, 10 river miles of the most perfect Hex water you could imagine.

A fawn sloshing through a shallow riffle. A file of baby raccoons winding through the alders. All the sets of eyes, large and small, high and low, watching you from the woods. I’d forgotten how strange and beautiful it is to row a boat through the darkness with freshly greased oarlocks, silent as a drifting log, straining your ears in the darkness for the sound of a good fish feeding. June had finally arrived, and after a long spring of daytime fishing Hendricksons, sulfurs and mahoganies from my new trout camp, I was finally plumbing the darker side of things. The idea was to spend a week or so learning a few beats of river in the dark and waiting on the

first big bugs of the season to make their appearance. Once they arrived, I’d blow a loud bugle to friends all across the Midwest with whom I hadn’t Hexed in years.

At the time of this particular outing, I had already been there four nights and felt my familiar nocturnal form returning. Like a snowshoe hare adapts to its winter surroundings by turning pale as a ghost, I commenced a series of physiological changes. My night vision improved to the point where starlight provided more than enough light to navigate the boat, and a full moon had me wanting sunglasses. My hearing had become so honed I could tell the locations of logjams by the tinkling sounds they made in the current. The song of the whip-poor-will, which for weeks had signaled the end of the fishing day, now portended the beginning.

But I hadn’t seen a single Hexagenia mayfly yet—naturally.

Suffering through a fair amount of nothing is necessary for anyone interested in the beginning of anything. There’s nothing like a slab of pork belly the moment it emerges from the smoker, or watching the first deer of the season pass within bowshot of your deer stand, and there’s nothing like fishing Hex on the first night the bugs appear and the trout eat your most outlandish creations—all the exploded hummingbirds and busted boutonnieres in your fly box.

I turned a bend and glided into a long calm straightaway where the trees opened up and the moon glazed the river in a silver trim. That’s when I heard it: down in the distance, where the river narrowed into darkness and curved to the left, the baritone rise and fall of a large trout’s head. My heart stumbled. My ears rang. I quietly drew anchor and strained my eyes at the black water flowing past me. And indeed there was a trickle of mayflies—glowing pale yellow in the moonlight, their erect wings looking like tiny sailboats. After several years of waiting it was finally happening: Hex season was here.

I exited the boat and waded slowly along the shallow bank, aurally triangulating the fish—it rose about once a minute—until it was rising no more than 20 feet away from me, deep in moon shadow. It rose again and I counted to 40 before making my first cast. And then I waited. With my peripheral vision I could just barely detect the white wings of my fly as it oozed downstream.

And then I heard a gulp.

I set the hook into great weight and immediately panicked. It was a better fish than I was mentally prepared for, and I had no idea what sunken wood lay out where it was trying to bury its oversized head. But I got lucky, and moments later I was releasing my first big trout of the night fishing season. It was a healthy, barrel-chested, 20-inch brown, the kind of fish you catch maybe once a month at best, except at Hex time, where odds are good you can get one every night.

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MUSKIE, STEELHEAD, CISCO— pick a fish and plan an adventure you’ll never forget.

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Thus I opened up the revolving door of my trout camp, summoning friends from southern Michigan, Minnesota and Illinois.

They arrived brandishing all the best accoutrements of long night floats: salmon jerky, venison backstrap, even wild turkey confit.

We passed a beautiful two weeks. There was the night we had a seething emergence, snouts poking skyward in every calm pool as if the trout were trying to darn the moon’s reflection to the water, during which time we caught fish on every cast. But then, suddenly, the bugs just disappeared, and for the next three hours we moved quietly over the water through glades of moonlight, listening to the current curl over wood, watching the eyes watching us in the woods. There was the night we almost stayed in our tents, a cool damp, drizzly night where you wish the beer was warm or that you had a dry winter parka handy. Ideally both. We didn’t suspect any action at all but it happened to be the very best night of the year—a long, slow, steady spinner fall where we all caught fish in impossible places: from deep within the overhangs of leaning cedars, to the crooks and crags of gnarly logjams. There was the night of the new moon when we fished black and purple “death hexes” and ran the boat aground six times, catching fish in spite of ourselves. And the night we found an old wooden paddle on the bank during a pit stop, on which we scribbled the night’s best scores: Dave K, 21 inches, Hex emerger. Rob R, 21.5 inches, Hex dun. Tom H, 22.75 inches, Hex spinner.

Friends came and went. Moons rose and set. Then one day close to the Fourth of July, after the last crew of visitors had bid their farewells, I awoke in my hammock to something jarring—heat like I hadn’t known since a fishing trip to India several years prior, so blazing hot it had gummed up the hands of my watch, stopping time. There had been some fairly warm days in June, but this was the first day that promised to be insufferable for someone living off the grid, and indeed, the thermometer hanging from the tree read 95. I opened a cardboard box of soup and ate it cold, suffered through a hot cup of coffee, then did my best to submerge my entire body in a small ice-cold creek that ran through the property. Time dragged on. Five hours before it was time to go to the river. Four hours. Three and a half. Three and a quarter. Three.

By this point in my Hex journey I had accomplished each and every goal I’d started out with, along with a few new ones I’d invented along the way, and the sane reader is correct in wondering why it was that I didn’t break camp and return to civilian life. But the fact of the matter is, once Hex fishing has you in his talons, there’s not much you can do to free yourself. The same force that prevents you from leaving a large fish rising in the moonlight, even though it is in an impossible place and ignoring your flies, is the

same that prevents you from packing the Jeep and heading back home. You can’t help but go out night after night. You can’t help but replay missed or lost fish in your head over and over, again and again. Rather than enjoying any sort of satiation, the endless conveyor belt of flies and fish turns the Hex angler’s desires ever more gluttonous. Instead of patting yourself on the back for having caught your best trout in years, you wring your hands and wonder: Is tonight the night that I catch the fish of a lifetime?

In time, the afternoon light started to soften, and without friends around I had begun my self-shuttle procedure, consisting of launching my boat at the put-in, parking the truck at the takeout and walking the dirt road back to the launch—a journey of roughly one hour. At the halfway point, I came across a turtle who’d met a particularly gruesome vehicular fate, its shell shattered in dozens of pieces. As I paused to consider the scene, it struck me that I was looking into a metaphysical mirror of sorts, that after three weeks of solid hexing I was also frazzled, fractured and spent. My sleep was poor, my diet worse, my hygiene only theoretical. For any newcomer looking to get in on Michigan nighttime bug action, heed this warning: Absolute hexing corrupts absolutely.

But the end was near. The bugs that night, for the first time since the hatch first began, were very sparse. Only a few fish rose. The river, also, was getting dangerously warm for trout. The one good fish I caught was so exhausted from the ordeal that it took almost 10 minutes to revive him. And just like that, the Hex season was over.

At the take-out, I hooked up my boat and dragged it out of the inky black water one last time. My truck, which had barely seen pavement the last three weeks, was caked in a grime of dust so thick the taillights barely glowed. But before leaving the river, I cracked open a beer and toasted the end of the season. The sun was blooming nectarine above the treetops, and the morning birds were chasing each other from bough to bough. With Hex season over, life was about to get very different. I was going to bathe in something that wasn’t a creek and sleep in something that wasn’t slung between two trees. I’d eat my food hot. I’d put on comfortable shoes with clean socks and walk on pavement, looking straight ahead, no need to pick my steps of river rock and root wads. And I was OK with all that. Even more than OK. As I packed up camp in the morning fog, I felt downright giddy.

And that’s the thing about Hex fishing: The only way to know you’ve truly done it right, is if you’re glad when it’s finally over.

Dave Karczynski teaches writing and photography at the University of Michigan, Ann Arbor.

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PILLARS OF BEAVER ISLAND FOR PILOT PAUL WELKE, HIS WIFE, ANGEL, AND THE RESIDENTS OF BEAVER ISLAND, ISLAND AIRWAYS IS MUCH MORE THAN A COMMUTER AIRLINE—IT’S A WAY OF LIFE AND A LIFELINE.

TEXT BY KATHY BELDEN // PHOTOS BY COURTNEY KENT

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PAUL AND ANGEL LEFEVRE-WELKE

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THE FLEET AND WELKE AIRPORT

Island Airways has six small planes, two full-time pilots and several other part-time pilots to accommodate seasonal schedules. Four of those planes are Britten-Norman Islanders, designed and built for island hopping. Manufactured on Great Britain’s Isle of Wight, this aircraft serves islands all over the world. “It’s meant to be a pickup truck in the world of aviation,” Angel explains. Well-suited to the needs of

—ANGEL LEFEVRE-WELKE

EVERYBODY HAS A PAUL STORY

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ot only do I love visiting Beaver Island, I keep bringing others with me to experience this remote island in the middle of Lake Michigan, about 30 miles from Charlevoix. Each time, I opt to fly Island Airways, maximizing my time for a day trip, while also experiencing the truly spectacular flight there and back.

On every trip, I’ve continued to sense something special about the people who own this little airline, Paul and Angel Welke. Pilot Paul Welke is the owner of this long-established commuter airline and his wife, Angel LeFevre-Welke, is president of Island Airways. But it doesn’t take many trips to realize this charming couple is much more than a pilot and his business-owner wife: The Welkes are an integral part of life on Beaver Island. They’re revered by Beaver Islanders—not only as residents, but also because of their passion for the island, for flying everything from mail to medicine and for showing such generosity to their fellow islanders.

On this trip to the island, I’m joined by photographer Courtney Michalik Kent. Before we board, Courtney confides to me that she’s never flown in a small plane—she admits she’s just a wee bit nervous. I tell her Paul will probably invite her to ride shotgun. He does. Angel tells me later that Paul has a knack for picking out the nervous flyers and putting them completely at ease.

Courtney dons her headset, readies her Nikon, and Paul immediately begins an easy chit-chat with her as we take off in one of their sturdy Britten-Norman Islanders. From the back seat, I hear Courtney’s delighted squeals and excited chatter as we quickly rise over Charlevoix. The cerulean and emerald waters of Lake Michigan stretch out in front of us and below us. It’s a stunningly beautiful day to fly.

Paul’s made about 65,000 round trips between Charlevoix and Beaver Island. It’s safe to say he knows this airspace probably better than anybody on the planet, but he’s the kind of guy who would never tell you that. Angel tells me he especially loves sharing Beaver Island, and the gorgeous flights, with first-timers. And since it’s Courtney’s first trip and her camera is at the ready, Paul generously does an entire sweep around Beaver Island before we land so she can take even more photos, thus making our normally 15-minute flight just a few minutes longer. This, of course, makes me very happy—I get more time in this little plane I love and I see things I haven’t seen before.

this little airline, this aircraft is versatile. It seats up to nine passengers, but the seats can easily pop out to haul freight, and can very quickly transition to an air ambulance. A Piper Apache and a Piper Aztec round out the fleet.

There are two airports on Beaver Island—a township airport and Welke Airport (yes, the airport bears their name).

The Welkes are sole owners of McPhillips Flying Service, Inc., (DBA Island Airways and Welke Aviation)—started by Paul’s parents in the late 1960s. Fun fact: Welke Airport is the 13th busiest airport in Michigan.

The Charlevoix terminal, housed in the Charlevoix Municipal Airport, is a beehive of activity. UPS and FedEx don’t deliver directly to Beaver Island; Island Airways provides the final leg over to the island. Packages get weighed, checked in and then loaded on an island-bound flight. During the summer months, about 4,000 pounds of freight a day goes from Charlevoix to Beaver Island, filling up at least one aircraft, and sometimes two.

“We provide this service to the islanders—it’s just what we do,” says Angel. “We even bring the mail from Charlevoix and pick up prescriptions in town.” If the terminal on Beaver Island at Welke Airport is closed for the day, the Welkes may leave a prescription at the back door of the office and text the recipient. “Nobody’s gonna steal your eye drops,” jokes Paul, but with obvious pride in their customer service.

Most interesting packages?

“One time I flew a hot tub over,” laughs Paul. Angel still cracks up about the goat that they flew over—in a cage, of course. “It was more like a ram!” she remembers.

“We’ve got a great crew,” says Paul. You’ll find both Welkes chatting easily with their staff or Paul helping employees, like Joe Timsak, load some freight onto the plane. Island Airways employs about 30 people, many of them are islanders, or former islanders. Angel says Beaver Island can be tough on young people, and they like to help them out. “And islanders love seeing other islanders at the Charlevoix airport,” she says.

Charlevoix resident Mary Delamater, Island Airways’ General Manager, was born on Beaver Island. “It’s great to work for a small business,” says Mary. “They’ve placed a lot of trust in me. You’re either a team player, or you’re not.” Everyone pitches in, including Paul who might be found helping unload the UPS truck. “It’s all a reflection of Paul,” says Mary.

Not only are the Welkes great to work for, Mary says, but they’ve done a lot for her family, and so many others.

When Mary’s grandson was diagnosed with leukemia and needed treatment at Helen DeVos Children’s Hospital in Grand Rapids, Paul flew them back and forth to make things easier on the family.

‘WE’RE BONDED FOREVER…’

Angel tells me “everybody has a Paul story” and suggested I talk to Chicago-area resident Mirth Gault.

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On February 9, 2001, Paul Welke was credited with finding the plane crash that carried the four members of the Gault family from Chicago to Beaver Island. He had a hunch what the pilot did wrong, spotted the wreckage in a thicket of trees a mile and a half from the Beaver Island airport and then guided the Coast Guard chopper in. Tragically, the pilot and a crewmember died, but Mirth Gault and her three young children survived the crash.

Before the plane was discovered, islanders were out in force on snowmobiles, looking for the downed plane. Mirth says after 15 hours, “I was close to giving up.” But, unbeknownst to her, Paul was waiting next to his plane, watching for a break in the clouds so he could take off safely. “As soon as he could, he went up and found us,” says Mirth. “We have an incredible connection.”

Fast forward to happier times: In 2013, Adam Gault (Mirth’s son) asked Paul to officiate his wedding, which Paul was delighted to do. “I’m a licensed minister in addition to being a pilot,” he reveals.

Paul had been given a bolt from the damaged prop of the plane by the FAA, which he has saved for years. He cut the bolt in half and gave one half to Adam on his wedding day. “We’re bonded forever,” he told the young Gault.

SHAKESPEARE VS. DEPRECIATION

“I never thought I’d be running an airline, but I write great manuals,” jokes Angel, who has an English degree. Angel has organizational skills from formerly running a large medical practice downstate. There’s extensive record keeping, airplane parts to inventory and personnel to manage. “I learn something new every day,” she says. Island Airways flies small planes, but must comply with the same FAA regulations as the big boys.

Paul, besides being a pilot since his teens, has a business degree.

“We really complement each other,” he says. Paul is reserved and low key; Angel is effervescent. “If I have a Shakespeare question, I can ask Angel,” he says with a grin. “And he’s explained things like depreciation to me,” she quickly fires back. The two banter easily and finish each other’s sentences.

At home on Beaver Island, they share a love of history and antiques. One room in their house is dedicated to historical artifacts (Paul loves WWI and WWII memorabilia). It’s an unbelievable collection and looks like a museum; Paul credits Angel with organizing and curating. It’s clearly a passion for both, and they are always on the hunt for new acquisitions when they travel—by plane, of course.

Their island home is at the edge of Welke Airport and has a view of the runway and the tiny Beaver Island terminal. Angel maintains a small home office when she’s not in Charlevoix.

How do these two relax when their work has round-the-clock demands? They spend time with their dogs, and have a great social life on the island. And what about winter? Winters on Beaver Island are beautiful, but notoriously isolating. “We play a lot of euchre in the winter!” says Angel. It helps that both are voracious readers, as well. “But, when the phone goes off, Paul is up and flying,” she says.

PILLARS OF THE COMMUNITY

The Welkes are not native islanders, but have earned the admiration of this small and extremely close-knit community. Paul grew up in Walled Lake (outside of Detroit) and started coming to Beaver Island in the 1950s. Angel hails from Bay City, in Michigan’s thumb.

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PA U L W E L K E

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SHERI RICHARDS FRANK SOLLE

ISLANDERS CO-ED SOCCER TEAM HEADING TO MUNISING

ISLANDERS ATHLETE JENNA BATTLE

Paul and Angel make their community involvement look easy, says Paul Cole, a native islander and director of Beaver Island’s Chamber of Commerce. “They balance running a business and continuously contribute to the community around them. It’s not an easy task. They find the time and give back.”

Angel serves on the board of the Chamber of Commerce, and is active in the Beaver Island Historical Society. She’s also the secretary of the annual Irish Festival.

Paul serves on Beaver Island’s Peaine Township Board of Trustees. “They’d never tell you that, but I just did!” laughs Paul Cole.

“They are a team that loves flying and loves the island.”

The Welkes fly the Beaver Island school teams to sporting events and fly kids in from other places, like Mackinac Island, for Beaver Island home games. The two even attend Friday night games to cheer on the kids. “They don’t look for credit, they just enjoy doing it,” says Paul Cole.

Angel and Paul know everybody on the island. “We even know their cats and dogs,” jokes Angel. Her mood quickly turns serious when she explains the downside of this. “If we have to fly people for a serious medical emergency, it’s difficult to take people off the island who are friends.”

Nobody knows this better than Eric Hodgson, who suffered a cardiac emergency in the spring of 2019. Eric has been a close friend of the Welkes for decades, he says, as well as a former business partner and former chief pilot of Island Airways. Paul flew a critically ill Eric to the mainland, while Angel rode in the back of the plane assisting Beaver Island’s EMS. They flew Eric to Harbor Springs—he was transported to the hospital in Petoskey, where he ultimately received a pacemaker. “They visited us daily in the hospital,” recalls Eric. Happily, Eric is back in action as an owner of several restaurants on the island, including The Shamrock.

HIGHLY REGARDED PILOT

Paul Cole says that respect for Paul Welke as a pilot “is off the charts.” “Everybody in Michigan aviation knows Paul,” says Eric.

Paul was named Michigan Pilot of the Year in 2013. He’s also a past recipient of the prestigious Wright Brothers Master Pilot Award and the Charles Taylor Master Mechanic Award. He’s in great company: Neil Armstrong—the first man on moon—and Chuck Yeager—the test pilot who broke the sound barrier—are past recipients. Paul has flown all types of planes and says his favorite flying experience was in the late 1990s when he co-piloted a B-17 with a WWII General in the pilot’s seat. “Nothing will ever top that!”

Beaver Island residents just know Paul is their guy when taking to the sky. “My 81-year-old Aunt Kathleen will only fly with Paul!” says Paul Cole. “Paul has a gift for analyzing the weather, and knows the weather patterns. He’s always looking at safety.”

At age 70, Paul is in great shape. “I attribute it to being in constant motion and moving baggage around,” he says. Fortunately for islanders and the rest of us, Paul has no intention to stop flying.

As for Courtney and I, we can’t wait to fly with Paul again.

Kathy Belden writes from Canton, Ohio, but spends her summers Up North. kbelden56@gmail.com // Courtney Kent is a photographer based in Traverse City. She photographs weddings, families, and small business clients. www.courtneykentphotography.com

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SOAK UP BUOYANT, BLISSFUL BEACH-TOWN VIBES IN ELK RAPIDS, BEULAH AND NORTHPORT.

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s d i p a R k l E START YOUR DAY: JAVA JONES ➥ Get there: 131 River St., Elk Rapids Grab coffee and breakfast to-go on your way to the beach. The scone flavors are always rotating (and delicious)—blueberry lemon, cheddar bacon, mocha chip and many more—and the breakfast burrito is a winner. javajonescafe.com HIT THE BEACH: ELK RAPIDS DAY PARK ➥ Get there: South Bay Shore Drive, about one mile south of downtown Home to the Art Rapids Walk of Art, an outdoor sculpture gallery, the Elk Rapids Day Park has more than 30 sculptures tucked along trails leading to a quartermile of sandy beach frontage on East Grand Traverse Bay. The art is selected by a jury and placed on display for one to three years, so the exhibits are continually changing, and most of the sculptures are for sale. Want a tour? Email your request to art@artrapids.org. ✲ Amenities: restrooms, a picnic pavilion with handicap access, 90-car parking lot, picnic sites with charcoal grills and tables, dog-friendly ✲ Tip: Pick up all-natural bug repellent at Wildflower Soapworks (and a bar of Elk Lake Sunset Soap to take home— the shop carries nearly 100 varieties of soap and each handmade bar is more beautiful than the last). 117 River St., wildflowersoapworks.com

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NESTLED BETWEEN EAST GRAND TRAVERSE BAY AND ELK LAKE, THIS COASTAL TOWN HAS PLENTY OF GOLDEN SAND TO GO AROUND, PLUS A SWEET DOWNTOWN BRIMMING WITH FUN SHOPS AND EATERIES.

GET ON THE WATER: RIGHT TREE ADVENTURE RENTALS ➥ Get there: 107 Bridge St., Elk Rapids

more farm-to-glass than that! Choose from nearly a dozen ciders on tap or grab cans to-go (wine, too!). townlineciderworks.com

Right Tree Adventure Rentals offers SUPs, kayaks, bikes and other outdoor recreation equipment on a donation basis, and 100 percent of rental donations flow back into Right Tree programming to help empower teen girls through experiences like backpacking the Porcupine Mountains and stand-up paddleboarding. Right Tree Adventure Rentals will deliver and pick up equipment at any location. righttree.org

✲ Tip: All hail Queen Ann! This cider is a blissful apple-berry blend with strawberries, blueberries and sweet and tart cherries.

✲ Tip: Right Tree Founder Craig Mosher’s favorite kayaking spots: “We generally recommend Elk Lake instead of Lake Michigan.

Folks can use the public boat launch directly down the street from our location or the public launch at Rotary Park next to the Elk Rapids Area Chamber of Commerce.

There are lots of interesting things to see on a paddle in the Elk River and spots where folks can stop and swim. But if the weather is cooperative, nothing beats a paddle on Lake Michigan along the Elk Rapids shoreline—crystal clear water and swimming opportunities galore. Try a short trip from Memorial Park to the Elk Rapids Day Park.”

TOP IT ALL OFF: A LAKE MICHIGAN SUNSET The Elk Rapids Day Park is one of the best beaches in the region to catch a sunset.

Get pizza to-go—by the slice or a whole pie—from Chef Charles’ at 147 River St. for a sunset dinner at the beach. (Make sure to get a side of the chef’s pesto for dipping.) chefcharlesinc.com For a sit-down dinner before sunset, head to Cellar 152’s back deck, complete with twinkling lights and a Lake Michigan view.

152 River St., cellar152.com ✲ Tip: Glass isn’t allowed on the beach, but you can bring those cans of cider you bought at Townline Ciderworks. Just make sure not to leave any trash behind.

SIP LIKE A LOCAL: TOWNLINE CIDERWORKS ➥ Get there: 11595 US-31 S., Williamsburg The ciders here are made with hand-harvested apples and fruits that are pressed and served on the edge of the orchard where they were grown. It doesn’t get

EL K R APIDS DAY PARK

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h a l u e B START YOUR DAY: URSA MAJOR BISTRO ➥ Get there: 245 S. Benzie Blvd., Beulah Park your car along South Benzie Boulevard and spend the morning browsing boutiques and a 10,000-square-foot antique market housed in the town’s historic Myers Granery. But fuel up first at Ursa Major Bistro. This cozy spot has freshly brewed, organic coffee from Traverse City’s Roaster Jack Coffee Co., espresso drinks (try the signature Sleeping Bear latte) and a hearty breakfast menu with staples like biscuits and gravy, Belgian waffles and cranberry walnut French toast. ursabistro.com ✲ Tip: Any trip to Beulah must include a stop at The Cherry Hut. The iconic restaurant on US-31 is beloved by generations of locals and vacationers. Don’t leave without a slice of pie. cherryhut.com HIT THE BEACH: BEULAH PUBLIC BEACH ➥ Get there: Lake Street, between Clark and Prospect Avenue Several hundred feet of Crystal Lake shoreline sits just one block away from the downtown shops and restaurants.

The super-sandy lake bottom and safely marked swimming area make it great for families. Across the street from the beach, at the corner of Lake Street and Prospect Avenue, Beulah Village Park has a large pavilion, charcoal grills, picnic tables, tennis courts and cool, shady areas under beautiful hardwoods.

JUST OFF US-31, THIS CHARMING DOWNTOWN AND ITS LOCAL STORES, RESTAURANTS AND A NEW BREWERY WELCOME VISITORS WITH CLASSIC UP NORTH VIBES.

✲ Tip: Cool down at The Cool Cat Ice Cream Bowl with a Midwestern favorite: Blue Moon ice cream. 229 S. Benzie Blvd., thecoolcaticecreambowl.com

✲ Tip: For summer sipping, we recommend the citrusy All Five IPA. Pair it with a pressed sandwich from the food menu and French onion dip to share.

GO EXPLORING: BETSIE VALLEY TRAIL

TOP IT ALL OFF: THE CHERRY BOWL DRIVE-IN THEATRE ➥ Get there: 9812 Honor Hwy., Honor (4 miles from downtown Beulah)

The Betsie Valley Trail runs 22 miles from Frankfort to Thompsonville, passing through Elberta and Beulah along the way.

Rent a bike from Crystal Lake Adventure Sports (214 S. Benzie Blvd.) and hop on the trail at Beulah Village Park. For a short ride, follow the trail along the shoreline of Crystal Lake for three miles (or less) and then turn back toward town. If you’re up for a longer ride (18 miles roundtrip), bike nine miles into Frankfort and spend a few hours exploring the coastal town’s memorable shops and eateries. betsievalleytrail.org ✲ Tip: Crystal Lake Adventure Sports also rents beach chairs and umbrellas, pontoons, fishing boats, kayaks, stand-up paddleboards and canoes. crystallakeadventuresports.com

The Cherry Bowl has been welcoming moviegoers every summer since 1953. There’s always a double feature and it’s always family-friendly (only G, PG and some PG-13 shown). Get there early, pick your spot and play a round of mini-golf on the ‘50s-style course complete with moving obstacles.

Then, get a hot dog and your go-to candy at the diner and settle in for showtime.

Rain or shine, the first film starts at dusk. cherrybowldrivein.com ✲ Tip: You’ve gotta get popcorn. It’s topped with real butter and still made in the original 1953 popper.

SIP LIKE A LOCAL: FIVE SHORES BREWING ➥ Get there: 163 S. Benzie Blvd., Beulah Five Shores opened its doors in January 2020, and friends, the beer is good. So are the vibes—from the massive Lake Michigan mural to the wrap-around bar and the welcoming staff, owners Oliver Roberts and Matt Demorest have crafted a space where people love to gather. fiveshoresbrewing.com

Amenities: restrooms, playground, free day dock, boat launch, parking

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DAVE WEIDNER

There’s nothing like summer Up North ... You have to see Northern Michigan’s lakes to believe they’re this blue.

No filter needed.

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BEFORE YOU GO: We encourage visitors to travel safely and responsibly during the COVID-19 pandemic. Remember to always practice social distancing by staying 6 feet away from others and wear a cloth mask or other face covering while in enclosed areas or near others. Not sure whether your favorite shops and eateries will be open during your visit? Be sure to give them a call, check their website or follow them on soacial media for updates.

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t r o p Nor th START YOUR DAY: BARB’S BAKERY ➥ Get there: 112 N. Mill Street A perfect Northport morning should start with a fresh-baked donut, strawberry cream cheese pastry or a cinnamon bun (or twist!) from the beloved Barb’s Bakery. Open 6 a.m. to 3 p.m., this cozy bakeshop is filled with an impressive collection of antiques to admire before devouring your sweet treats and lazing on one of the benches out front. barbsbakery.com ✲ Tip: Barb’s does not accept credit cards, so bring cash.

HIT THE BEACH: NORTHPORT BEACH ➥ Get there: Bay Street, 28 miles north of Traverse City on M-22 Maps call it Bay Front Park, the Visitor Center says Northport Beach, but locals just call it THE beach! Enjoy the sun and surf at this downtown shoreline along Northport Bay. Kids can take a sailing class at the nearby Northport Youth Sailing School, dive into some beach volleyball or enjoy a family stroll along the sandy shore while soaking in the marina and bay views. To learn more about activities in the area, check out the Northport Visitor Center, 204 Rose St. northportvisitorcenter.org Amenities: playground, public restrooms, picnic tables, grills GO EXPLORING: TIP OF THE PENINSULA Northport is the gateway to the tippy top of the Leelanau Peninsula, where you’ll discover the Grand Traverse Lighthouse and Leelanau State Park—picture-perfect

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LAIDBACK VILLAGE OVERLOOKING GRAND TRAVERSE BAY OFFERS PLENTY OF OUTDOOR ADVENTURE, UNIQUE RESTAURANTS, FUNKY SHOPS AND FUN FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY.

stops worth exploring if you have the time. Admission to the lighthouse ($5 for adults, $2 for children 6-12, free for kids 5 and under) includes a self-guided tour that details many of the museum’s artifacts and points of interest. Guided tours are also available for school and adult groups—reserve in advance by calling the program coordinator at 231.386.7195. grandtraverselighthouse.com The peninsula also has something special in store for avid rock hunters. Be sure to comb the beaches at Peterson Park and Christmas Cove—both less than a 10-minute drive from downtown Northport—if you’re interested in spotting a Petoskey stone. Peterson Park, situated on a bluff 150 feet above the water, is also a perfect spot to watch the sun set below the Lake Michigan horizon.

SIP LIKE A LOCAL: THE MITTEN BREWING CO. ➥ Get there: 112 W. Nagonaba Street No need to brush the sand off your ankles—grab a bite (and a beer for mom and dad) at The Mitten Brewing Co. This cozy taproom offers 14 beers on tap, plenty of outdoor patio seating, and when the weather allows, guests can try tasty fare from partnering local food trucks. mittenbrewing.com/northport ✲ Tip: Take advantage of the taproom’s menu—they offer an array of satisfying snacks, like giant hot pretzels served with housemade dipping sauces and spreads like smoked whitefish and smoked salmon and capers. (And the popcorn is always free!)

TOP IT ALL OFF: ICE CREAM AT THE TRIBUNE ➥ Get there: 110 E. Nagonaba Street

Before heading out to your preferred waterfront destination, find a beach read at Dog Ears Books (106 S. Waukazoo St., dogearsbookstore.org). Or, if you’re in need of a new pair of shades or a Turkish towel, poke into the ever-adorable Porcupine Cabin. 102 W. Nagonaba St., facebook.com/porcupinecabin

Cool off at the end of your day with an indulgent sweet treat from The Tribune.

We recommend getting a kiddie scoop in a waffle cone (or go with a large, we won’t judge). You’ll have plenty of delectable flavors to choose from, including seasonal berry, chocolate peanut butter and toasted coconut. northporttribune.com

Hungering for a midday picnic on the peninsula? Stop stop into New Bohemian Café—a neighborhood coffee shop and deli offering espresso, grab-and-go sandwiches, deli salads and pastries from 9 Bean Rows Bakery. 110 S. Waukazoo St., newbohemiancafe.com

✲ Tip: Inside The Tribune, you’ll also find a cozy breakfast and lunch spot—perfect for fueling up before a day at the beach. Try the stacked ham and cheese on housemade focaccia with a side of hand-cut fries.

✲ Tip: New Bohemian Cafe also serves as a tasting room for Baia Estate winery.

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Carly Simpson is the curator of MyNorth’s wildly popular Daily Splash newsletter. Are you a subscriber yet? MyNorth.com/newsletter // Allison Jarrell is associate editor of Traverse Magazine. allison@mynorth.com // Nick Hearn is an adventure/travel content creator based out of Traverse City, Michigan. More of his work can be found on his instagram page — @nckstagram

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HERE AT TRAVERSE MAGAZINE, WE’RE THRILLED TO BE CELEBRATING FOUR DECADES OF TELLING THE STORIES THAT MATTER TO YOU—from highlighting Northern Michigan’s one-of-a-kind landscape to profiling the region’s tenacious entrepreneurs, prolific artists and outdoor enthusiasts who call this place home. =

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CONSERVATION IS AT OUR CORE At Traverse, our mission has always been to celebrate our lands and waters, and we honor that in every issue.

Founded in the early 1970s, Little Traverse Conservancy (LTC) was one of the first land conservancies in the state. By May 1987, LTC had created 36 nature preserves totaling 2,000 acres of land, as highlighted in the Traverse feature that month, “Walking in the Wild.” In the decades since, LTC has celebrated many big wins, measured by far more than the number of acres protected and preserves created.

Of the many cherished projects we’ve written about over the years, this attempt to save an old-growth forest, including red oaks up to 150 years old, stands out.

The rare forest, located on Burt Lake in Cheboygan County, was owned by the Devereaux Timber Company, which had plans to log it in the mid-1980s. Tom Bailey, the executive director of LTC from 1984–2018, described the property as “one of the least disturbed tracts of trees in northern lower Michigan” in the April 1985 issue of Traverse. When asked if the forest would survive, Bailey said, “The coin is in the air right now. I don’t think that anyone is sure where it’ll land.”

But the forest did survive. Conservationists across the state rejoiced in 1987 when the largest stand of old-growth hardwood trees in the northern Lower Peninsula was saved. Thanks to the efforts of many, it’s protected by LTC’s Chaboiganing Nature Preserve and Indian Point Memorial Forest, owned by the University of Michigan Biological Station.

While LTC has protected more than 60,000 acres of land across its five-county service area, the creation of community nature preserves has been an emphasis in recent years, including Duncan Bay Nature Preserve, established in 2017 and located within walking distance of downtown Cheboygan. With a new trail completed in 2019, the preserve has become an incredible community asset that has helped the City of Cheboygan apply for, and recently receive, Pure Michigan Trail Town designation.

“As our land conservation success grew, so did our need to be good stewards and our commitment to the communities we serve,” says current Executive Director Kieran Fleming. “Duncan Bay is a great partnership project with the City of Cheboygan that includes

a wonderful new trail and Lake Huron overlook at a location that was previously inaccessible. It perfectly complements Cheboygan’s new designation as a Michigan Trails Town.”

Since it started in the ‘70s, LTC has been joined by several other land conservancies in Northern Michigan, all sharing similar missions to protect our precious land and water and preserve it for future generations. Our Traverse team loves sharing their stories and is constantly amazed by, and thankful for, the work they do.

We will continue to share their victories each month in our Love of the Land department. —C.S. PROTECTED FOREVER

VISIONS FOR THE BOARDMAN RIVER Channeling the restoration of this beautiful river for 40 years.

Traverse has had its eye on the Boardman River from our inaugural issue in June 1981, when we published our cover story, “A Dream Realized: Boardman Redevelopment.” (Enjoy the attached digital version of that edition complete with the Boardman story accompanied by conceptual designs.) Our editorial team back then—Deb Fellows and Jeff Smith—agreed with a number of city leaders that it was time to treat this river, that hairpins through Traverse City and empties into Grand Traverse Bay, as the jewel Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | JUN '20

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DUNCAN BAY NATURE PRESERVE

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MyNorth.com PHOTO COURTESY OF LITTLE TRAVERSE CONSERVANCY

it is. While people no longer emptied raw sewage directly into it as they had in the 19th century, its banks were eroding, outmoded hydroelectric dams impeded the river’s free-flowing water and there were virtually no public access points for people to experience the river.

The plan that we wrote about 40 years ago hasn’t all come to fruition (no water taxis!), still, the city and community have made great strides in restoring TC’s river. City Planner Russ Soyring, who has held the position since 1986, helps us highlight some of them: • A wooden boardwalk now runs between Cass Street and the mouth.

• The contaminated former Iron Works site was cleaned up and redeveloped into the successful mixed-use River’s Edge and Midtown neighborhoods. The development also includes a public walk along Boardman River along the entire parcel.

• A new stormwater filtration system was implemented, cleaning the water before it goes into the Boardman River. The project also includes fishing platforms, stone riverbank terraces to control erosion and a riparian buffer.

• Volunteers, led by Norm Fred, have recruited and organized teams to clean trash from the river for many years.

• Three dams were removed along the Boardman River. These changes have resulted in a colder running river that will support cold water fisheries.

What might the future bring? “We have a detailed plan for a beautiful public pier at the mouth of the Boardman River. This project was put on hold so other critical infrastructure needs within the city can be addressed,” Soyring tells us. —E.E.

MICHIGAN’S LAST LIGHTKEEPER Steve Sherman was the last U.S. Coast Guard Lightkeeper in the state of Michigan, tending to Point Betsie Lighthouse near Frankfort. —Reported by Gardner Weber, November/December 1981 “The end of manned operation at Point Betsie could come anytime … In the meantime, daily routines continue, including maintenance of the light, changing of its lamps when needed, keeping the lenses clean and polished, maintaining radio equipment and emergency generators, painting, scrubbing, mowing lawns, snow-plowing driveways and sometimes just pausing to enjoy the incredible views of Lake Michigan, its Manitous and its sand-duned shoreline.

“Their time spent at Point Betsie Lighthouse will no doubt provide stories for their grandchildren someday—stories about operating one of the last manned lighthouses on the Great Lakes.”* *Only three other lighthouses were still manned on the Great Lakes at the time, as automation took over—Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin; Kewaunee, Wisconsin and Two Harbors, Minnesota. —C.S.

A MUST-EAT In June 1986, Traverse columnist Thomas BeVier noted a longstanding Traverse City tradition—to be accepted into polite Traverse City society, one must eat Monkey Tails. For those who haven’t had the distinct pleasure yet, the Bardon’s Wonder Freeze specialty, still sold today, is a frozen banana dipped in hot chocolate and rolled in crushed nuts. Bardon’s, which opened in 1951, was recently sold in March 2020 to lifelong customers David and Dawnette Wessell, who plan to keep on making Monkey Tails at the Sputnik-topped dairy bar. (Sputnik was placed on the roof by the original owners, Orrin and Nella Bardon, who purchased it as “a good-humored reminder of the Eisenhower years, when the Russians beat out the United States with Sputnik,” Thomas wrote in 1986. And Dawnette confirms, Sputnik is staying.) —C.S.

DID YOU KNOW? In August 1981, Traverse writer Cindee Egan shed light on the many former names of Power Island.

At one point, the “Island of Many Names” earned the nickname Hog Island, as noted in “Along Grand Traverse Shore,” by M.E.C. Bates and M.K. Buck. Buck wrote, “Years ago, because of the many hogs left there ... during the summer to be fattened on mast (the fruit of certain forest trees), it was called Hog Island, but I am glad to say that this was never anything but a nickname.”

Cindee wrote that early residents claim it was first named Eagle Island after a pair of bald eagles who made their nest there.

The island changed hands several times before it was conveyed to Frederick Hall in December 1872. Hall named it Marion Island after his only daughter. Marion Hall Fowler kept the island many years after the death of her father before selling it to Henry Ford for $100,000 (with the intention that it would be preserved and not exploited). The island was then called Ford Island for a short time.

The island changed hands several times again before landing with the present owner—Grand Traverse County. By the time Cindee’s article was published in 1981, the name had reverted back to Marion Island.

Today, we call it Power Island, and we’re thankful that some things haven’t changed—like the 200 wooded acres, 5 miles of trails and some of the best camping around. —A.J. ISLAND FUN FACT Bassett Island, a small island just north of Power Island, was named after Dick Bassett, who lived there for nearly 25 years. Known as a hermit fisherman, Bassett planted apple trees, grapes and vegetables. Around 1905, he sold the island to the vice president of the Chicago Yacht Club. Finding the island unsuitable for a landing site, the yacht club exec sold it to a group from Traverse City. They built a pavilion and dock on Bassett Island and held dances three times a week! The steamer Columbia brought people over for the parties. Like Power Island, Bassett Island is owned by Grand Traverse County, and the County Parks and Recreation Commission stewards the islands. Camping is currently not permitted on Bassett Island, as rising water has covered the isthmus that connects it to Power Island. Visit grandtraverse.org for more information and current camping policies.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine | JUN '20

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10 features

departments

34 Family Ties

Two sisters got serious about continuing their family’s tradition of cottaging.

Here is the gracious, rustic result.

07 Editor’s Note

Home, Sweet Home

20 Fairytale Makeover

A before-and-after story that begins with a homely house and ends happily ever after.

08 Northern Mood

Easy-to-care-for succulents.

10 Collections

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Northern Home & Cottage

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Northern Home & Cottage is published as a supplement to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine. 125 S Park St., Suite 155, Traverse City, MI 49684. All rights reserved. Copyright 2020, Prism Publications Inc.

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NHC5

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editor’s note

Home, Sweet Home I am sure that our readers share my intense feel-

Until then, join me in being so grateful for the

ings about the importance of home—and staying in it

homes that we have—whether they are in the woods,

until this pandemic ends. That sentiment was certainly

on the water, in a suburb or city. Our staff at

expressed by the two sets of homeowners I interviewed

MyNorth (Traverse Magazine, Northern Home & Cottage,

for the home stories in this issue. I had such a lovely

MyNorth.com among our many products) has heard

time on the phone with each of these folks as we chat-

from so many of you this month, telling us about how

ted from our respective home offices. We were all so

important our publications are to your connection with

happy to talk about something that brings joy and we all

Northern Michigan. Despite the fact that by virtue of the

expressed gratitude for the shelter of our homes.

circumstances we are more isolated from any of you

I expect that when this is finally over, residential architecture will never be the same again. There will

than we could ever imagine, in our hearts, we feel closer than ever.

be more emphasis than ever on passive homes—solar

Stay safe, stay well, and settle into this issue to

power, wind power and drum-tight insulation. The

celebrate homes of the present—and take a moment

concept of passive homes, in fact, dates to the 1970s

to dream of all the good things to come.

and another crisis: the oil embargo/energy crisis. I also envision a slew of other concepts that make households more self-sufficient becoming standard home-construction practices: smart home offices for parents and smart learning stations for children, as well as rooftop gardens, greenhouses, aquaponics, even chicken coops. It will be

Elizabeth Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home & Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com

an exciting, revolutionary time in residential architecture, and we welcome the opportunity to cover innovative solutions in Northern Home & Cottage.

Northern Home & Cottage

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NORTHERN

MOOD Succulent Style

3

CURATED BY GAIL SNABLE // PHOTOS BY DAVID WEIDNER

Even folks lacking a green thumb can fill their homes with these funky, fun, plump plants that come in countless shapes, sizes and textures.

6

You have to love a plant that thrives on neglect. “They are forgiving as long as you don’t over-water them,” says Julie Sovereign of Garden Goods in Traverse City. “Let the soil dry out thoroughly before you water them and water sparingly,” she adds. Succulents also like bright light, but it doesn't have to be direct light.

Beyond that simple care, just have fun with your succulents. Choose plants with different shapes (trailing and upright), textures (spiky and smooth) and color (greens, yellows, reds …) and plant them together in a big pot, or opt to arrange them across your home as eye-candy morsels.

Don’t know where to start? We love this grid that Garden Goods put together for us. —E.E.

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9. Haworthia hybrid

Northern Home & Cottage

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how to bunk the kids

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JUN | JUL '20

NHC 11

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safe and sound Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '20

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Photo by Justin Maconochie

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JUN | JUL '20

NHC 15

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Imagine the giggles, stories and dreams shared in this bunk rendition by Render Construction.

stories told here Northern Home & Cottage

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BUNK

PHOTOS BY KAITY

05

rustic charm

BUNK

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Here’s a lesson in how to cozy up a rustic cabin bedroom. Designed and built by the talented team at BAC Design Group.

sweet dreams Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '20

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fairytale makeover YOU KNOW THE STORY ABOUT THE FROG WHO TURNED INTO A HANDSOME PRINCE?

TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS // PHOTOS BY JASON HULET

Northern Home & Cottage

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MyNorth.com

he before photos of the Oostras' house, are, ahem, homely. It was khaki colored and more-or-less shapeless—except for an attempt at rafter tails under the eave that ended up looking more like toad warts. Ouch. The interior? Shag carpet, chopped up rooms and, the crowning touch: “When you walked in the front door, the first thing you saw was the furnace,” says Randy Oostra, who purchased the home with his wife, Barb, several years ago.

This is a tough description of a home that has made decades of people very happy. And the house is located in Crystal Downs, the private golf course just outside of Frankfort, where it is hard to be anything but happy. At the heart of Crystal Downs is its golf course designed by the renowned British course designer Alister MacKenzie in 1928, with challenging greens, hills rolling the glacial landscape and wide-open Lake Michigan views from the bluffs. Beach Road, a part of the private club, runs under that bluff and beside the lake.

That’s where the Oostras' house sits, nestled in a grove of trees that open onto the lakefront.

There were some admirable qualities about the home—it had a nice footprint and it was set back far enough from the water to allow room for a small addition. Working with a design-and-build team made up of architect Bob Yvon, Ray Franks of Heartwood Custom Builders and designer Angela Goodall of Kitchen Choreography, the Oostras decided not to tear it down; it was worthy of a remodel.

Given the home had basically no style, the couple’s options were wide open. Working with Yvon, the Oostras set about giving the exterior a Craftsman feel—a style that is comfortable with its neighboring mid-century homes. The transformation is, can we say, princely? The once boring roofline is now a pretty medley of eaves, the former khaki siding is covered in gray shake trimmed in white and the rafter trails are true to the Craftsman style.

While the additions to the footprint were simple—a pantry, screened-in porch and master suite—the interior’s metamorphosis is no less dramatic. “The main change was the way the spaces in the home were reused,” Randy says. Those changes included turning the dark basement into a window/light-filled walkout with two guest bedrooms. Each is outfitted with fun wallpaper and, in place of closets, Goodall designed what she calls hotel lockers—openfronted recessed areas outfitted with a hanging bar and counters. The concept functions more efficiently in a guest room than a closed-in closet, Goodall explains.

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Northern Home & Cottage

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Northern Home & Cottage

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Indeed, the home is marked with signature touches all through, including fabulously patterned wallpaper and tile. In the powder room bath, the Oostras asked if pebbles could be designed into the shower-floor tile—thinking that they’d give an interesting contrast to the tile. Kitchen Choreography’s tile layers accomplished it to a striking effect.

The home’s pièce de résistance is its great room that faces the lake. The small windows that once let in only squinty views are replaced with a wall of glass that rises to transoms and finally to a set of clerestory windows, bathing the entire room in light and watery views.

Working closely with Goodall, the Oostras chose a palette of soothing driftwood shades for a serene backdrop to the vibrant lake view. A small-but-efficient open kitchen at one end of the great room replaces the original dark, cramped kitchen that was blocked from lake views. Outfitted with creamy white cabinetry, marble-like Cambria Quartz countertops and the new pantry, the space can do anything a bigger kitchen can. “It’s not huge, it is just right,” says Barb. “Everyone gathers there.”

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Northern Home & Cottage

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Goodall helped the couple select a series of six wrought-iron chandeliers that hang from the creamy V-groove-clad cathedral ceiling with its oak beams, adding intimacy to the soaring height. The Oostras sum up their home’s style as casual classic—worthy of its extraordinary setting, yet, as Randy says, “The kind of home where guests feel comfortable helping themselves to the refrigerator.”

It is a true happily-ever-after story for the Oostras and their home—one that came with a bonus: The friendship between the homeowners and their design-and-build team that began during construction has continued. “We had a lot of fun together,” Randy says. “We count them all as friends.”

Elizabath Edwards is managing editor of Northern Home and Cottage. lissa@traversemagazine.com

Northern Home & Cottage

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O U U R S SHHE EPPHH EE RR DD RR EE SS O R C C EE SS I I NN CC / / AAI IA A S H E P H E R D R E S O U R C E S I N C / A I A aa rr cc hh ii tt ee cc tt uu rr ee arch i t ect ur e

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Northern Home & Cottage

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family ties TWO SISTERS AND THEIR FAMILIES JOIN THEIR PARENTS TO RECREATE THE FAMILY COTTAGE EXPERIENCE OF THEIR CHILDHOOD. TEXT BY ELIZABETH EDWARDS // PHOTOS BY KATY

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ne could believe that Megan Batson is reading right out of a storybook when she tells about her childhood summers at her grandparents’ cottage in Quebec. Every June, Megan, her sister, Melanie, and their parents, John and Margaret Faulkner, headed from their Michigan home to Quebec to spend time with their extended family. “It was always about family and everybody being together,” Megan says. “There were times that we’d have 12 to 15 family members up there—huge gatherings and we just loved them.

“We are all about cottage life” Megan continues. “We love the camaraderie of family campfires, staying up late and playing games, spending time on the lake—and the whole outdoor experience. When it’s chilly you build a fire… ” Then one summer the extended family had become too large to accommodate everyone at the Quebec cottage at once and Megan and Melanie felt the end of an era had come. By this time, Megan and her husband, Wade, lived in Texas and Melanie and husband, Bob, lived in southern Michigan. They decided to rent a cottage on a lake near Cadillac with their parents—and look at real estate in the area so that they could begin a new cottaging tradition in Northern Michigan. They scouted properties for several days, but nothing felt just right. Then one day Megan remembers, everyone was gathered on the back porch of their rental cottage and she decided to check Craigslist. A property on Spider Lake outside of Traverse City popped up. They decided to have a look.

Once at the property, the family knew immediately that they’d found the site of their new cottage. Spider Lake had the same wooded, remote feeling that their lake in Quebec had.

The property was at the end of an access road, just like the Quebec cottage had been. Add to those features the fact that the property’s sellers were a long-time Spider Lake family who still live on the lake and were hoping to find buyers who appreciated the lake’s cottaging lifestyle. Sold.

As Megan self-describes, she isn’t one to let grass grow under her feet, so she launched a search for an architect (which included perusing back issues of Northern Home & Cottage!) that ended with the family hiring Joseph Mosey. After Mosey asked them for examples of features they wanted, they came back to him with a few basic concepts: They didn’t want a Cathedral ceiling in the great room. Instead, they wanted the intimacy of a defined kitchen and living and dining rooms—yet they wanted the rooms to flow into each other. They all have dogs; they wanted a dog shower.

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Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '20

NHC 37

WHERE DREAM KITCHENS COME FROM.

A beautiful kitchen is the heart of a welcoming home—and we’ve got the premium-quality fixtures, sinks, countertops and cabinets to make yours exceptional. Explore Wittock’s aisles of inspiration to see all the exciting transformative possibilities for yourself.

wittock.com BIRMINGHAM 950 S. Woodward Ave. Birmingham, MI 48009 (248) 283-8400

GAYLORD 1100 Gornick Avenue Gaylord, MI 49735 (989) 732-1690

SHELBY TOWNSHIP 50800 Corporate Drive Shelby Township, MI 48315 (586) 731-4111

TRAVERSE CITY 1610 W. South Airport Rd. Traverse City, MI 49686 (231) 946-5160

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '20

NHC 39

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40

MyNorth.com

And that kitchen? It had to be laid out precisely to Megan’s specifications—a wish that she credits Mosey for taking seriously. “I love to cook and I am very particular about how my kitchen works,” she says. “Joe listened.”

The family was willing to trust Mosey on the exterior and the precise layout of home, only expressing their wish for the home to feel cottagey and fit into the site. The end product, with its mossy-green siding and stone foundation, blends sweetly into its setting. “The house draws its rustic cues from the wooded setting and introduces balance and order amid the randomness of the forest,” Mosey explains.

“The design of the house is extremely site specific,” he continues. “It follows the lake’s shoreline and the rooms are set up to capture the distinctly different views of the lake. The living room looks out to the widest and more public part of the lake, while the screened porch on one side, and the master suite on the other have views of more quiet, private coves.

The different views unfold and change as you move through the spaces, allowing you to experience the entire amazing site.”

➤

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '20

NHC 41

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Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '20

NHC 43

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Because everyone loves Up North Subscribe to Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine and embrace every season Up North 12 months a year Click here to subscribe to a full year of Traverse Magazine for $24.95

Beautiful Arcadia Bluffs MyNorth is home of Traverse Magazine & MyNorth Tickets

Eric Render and his team at Render Construction built the home. “He is so easy to work with,” Megan says of Render. “What we appreciated about him the most was his honesty about the cost. Even before he’d put one shovel in the ground, he told us that we were over budget and we needed to adjust the plan. His building team was amazing—such good workers, such nice people. I could sing their praises all day.”

But the greatest gift Render gave the family was speed. Sadly, John Faulkner was diagnosed with dementia just as the construction began in the fall of 2014. The sisters put the push on Render to finish the job by the summer of 2015. “We wanted to make memories in the cottage with our father while he could still remember,” Megan says. Render came through and the family gathered in their new Spider Lake cottage by August. And yes, there were late-night games, canoe and kayak paddles and s’mores built and eaten over the fire— that summer and summers since. For this family, cottaging, the next chapter, continues.

Northern Home & Cottage

JUN | JUL '20

NHC 45

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Photography Credit - Justin Maconochie Photography Credit Justin Maconochie Photography PhotographyCredit Credit- --Justin JustinMaconochie Maconochie

108N. N.Center CenterSt. St. Suite Suite205 205 108 108 Center St. Suite 205 108 N. N.MI Center St. 248-515-4477 Suite 205 Northville, MI 48167 248-515-4477 Northville, 48167 Northville, Northville, MI MI 48167 48167 248-515-4477 248-515-4477 “Architecture is meant to create a meaningful experience for those

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Old Mission who engage it, Windows the Eyes to that Mission brings level of ofare professionalism andexperience. experienceOld toevery every Windows brings aa level professionalism and experience to Windows brings a of professionalism and experience to every Windows brings a level level of professionalism andproducts experience tocapabilievery that breaths life into into our designs. designs.Their Their products and capabiliproject that breaths life our and project that breaths life into our designs.

Their products and capabiliproject that breaths life into our designs.

Their products and capabiliup endless endless opportunities opportunities for forus usto tocreate createnew newand andexciting exciting ties open up ties open opportunities for us to create new and exciting ties open up up endless endless opportunities environments with every every project” for us to create new and exciting environments with project” environments with project” environments with every every project” -Joesph Michael Michael Mosey Architect//Principal Principal -Joesph Mosey -- Architect -Joesph -Joesph Michael Michael Mosey Mosey -- Architect Architect // Principal Principal

“Render Construction Construction isis aa family family tradition traditionwith withaasolid solidfoundation, foundation,built built “Render Construction is family with a foundation, built “Render Construction is a aprofessionalism: family tradition tradition it with a solid solid foundation, built on integrety, quality core values integrety, quality and and professionalism: itisisthese these core valuesthat that on integrety, quality and professionalism: it values that on integrety, quality and the professionalism: it is is these these core core that have served well with Old served us us well over over the years. years. Our Ourrelationship relationship withvalues OldMission Mission have served us well over the years.

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Dining

RESTAURANT GUIDE | LOCAL TABLE | DRINKS

PHOTOS BY TODD ZAWISTOWSKI

do they barbeque in heaven?

No matter how you spell it, barbecue means good times and great food.

Whether cooking on the latest Weber grills or a homemade variation at the beach, there’s something about the wafted scents of a barbecue that brings us all together. Read on this month as we share some of our tried-and-true tips and recipes, gathered from writers and chefs over the past 40 years in Traverse.

And head to MyNorth.com/BBQrecipes for even more good eats.

“SUCCESSFUL BARBECUING RELIES MAINLY ON YOUR SENSE OF ADVENTURE AND YOUR WILLINGNESS TO EXPERIMENT WITH ALL THE FOOD GROUPS. A TRUE BARBECUER IS A CREATIVE INDIVIDUAL WHO CAN ADAPT TO ANY SITUATION, USING WHATEVER TOOLS ARE AVAILABLE TO PRODUCE A DELICIOUS MEAL.” —MARTY WOLF, FORMER TRAVERSE FOOD WRITER, JULY 1983

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN '20

69

Slow-Smoked St. Louis-Style BBQ Ribs

dining | bbq

Barbecue master Adam Kline launched Pigs Eatin’ Ribs in 2011 with a tow-behind smoker and a food truck. Now a restaurant, located at 1418 Bridge Street in Charlevoix, Pigs Eatin’ Ribs has a loyal following for Adam’s legit Southern barbecue. We’re bringing this classic recipe back from our August 2014 issue. Read the full feature at MyNorth.com/EatinRibs.

SERVES 6–8 1

cup kosher salt

2

tablespoons freshly ground black pepper

2

tablespoons dry mustard powder

¾ cup packed brown sugar 1

cup Spanish paprika

¼ cup garlic powder ¼ cup onion powder 4

slabs St. Louis-cut pork ribs

Preheat smoker to 225°F. Thoroughly combine first seven ingredients (the dry rub in a small mixing bowl). Liberally coat rib slabs with dry rub on both sides and cook in smoker for 4–6 hours until meat is tender and falling off the bone. Remove ribs from smoker, brush with a favorite sauce (we suggest the Hot-Spice BBQ Sauce recipe below) and serve.

When it comes to adding flavor and zip, a good BBQ sauce is unequaled. Every outdoor barbecuer has their own favorites, which vary widely in taste and spices. Here’s one of Marty Wolf's favorites:

HOT-SPICE BBQ SAUCE 18 ounces Open Pit BBQ sauce, regular flavor ½ cup apple cider vinegar M cup dark brown sugar N cup Louisiana hot sauce 2

tablespoons hot mustard

½ cup finely diced sweet onion Combine all ingredients in a heavy saucepan.

Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 15 minutes, uncovered. Set the sauce aside until ready to use. Best on ribs. (Cook ribs without sauce until they are fully cooked and then add sauce—usually during the final 20 minutes when the coals are cooler.)

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MyNorth.com

Apple-Glazed Barbecue Chicken

bbq | dining

Almost 30 years ago and fresh out of the Paul Smith’s College culinary program in upstate New York, Fred Laughlin was recruited to launch the then-fledgling culinary program at Northwestern Michigan College. Fred and Traverse City proved a matched pair, and over the course of two decades, the chef was instrumental in growing the program, now known as the Great Lakes Culinary Institute, into one of the top-ranked culinary schools in the country. Fred shared this recipe with us in our September 2012 issue, before retiring in December 2018.

INGREDIENTS 18 ounces apple cider ¼ cup firmly packed brown sugar ½ cup American Spoon Farmhouse

Tomato Relish 1

tablespoon apple cider vinegar

1

teaspoon fresh thyme, crumbled

V teaspoon hot pepper sauce

(such as Tabasco)

Dry Rub (see recipe below)

½ cup Fustini’s Maple Balsamic Vinegar 3–4 pound Baker's Acres chicken

(halved, backbone removed) Combine first six ingredients in small heavy saucepan. Simmer over medium heat until reduced by one half. Set aside to cool. Place the prepared chicken in a large bowl and add the dry rub ingredients along with the maple balsamic vinegar. Toss the chicken with the rub ingredients and vinegar until evenly coated.

Prepare barbecue (medium heat). Grill until the chicken is about halfway cooked through (internal temperature about 115°F on an instant-read thermometer). Brush the chicken frequently with the glaze during the remaining cooking time.

DRY RUB 2

tablespoons smoked paprika

1

teaspoon black pepper

2

tablespoons salt

2

teaspoons garlic powder

2

teaspoons onion powder

2

teaspoons celery seed

Combine all ingredients and store in an airtight container. Good on pork, ribs or poultry.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN '20

71

dining | restaurant guide

Find Northern Michigan Restaurants Offering Takeout During the COVID-19 Pandemic at MyNorth.com/Takeout

The Queens Head Wine pub serving wine, spirits and draft beer along with delectable pub fare. LD • BAR $ 250 N.

Mary’s Bistro Well-rounded menu of bistro fare and the most taps on the island. LD • BAR • $-$$ MAIN ST. AT

Vintage Chophouse/ Wine Bar All-American steakhouse flavored with retro sophistication. LD • BAR • $-$$$

Mighty Mac Hamburgers Breakfast sandwiches, burgers, hot dogs, chicken sandwiches and more. Indoor seating or carryout. BL • $ 7463 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8039 Millie’s on Main Charming soda fountain and grill. LD • $

HURON ST., CHEBOYGAN, 231.445.7101

INN AT BAY HARBOR AUTOGRAPH COLLECTION, 3600 VILLAGE HARBOR DR., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.4051

Vivio’s Northwood Inn Locals love this cozy, rustic, wildlife-decorated log cabin with Italian cuisine and specialty pizzas. LD • BAR • $-$$ 4531 S. STRAITS HWY., INDIAN RIVER, 231.238.9471

| WATER VIEW BLD | BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER

MACKINAC ISLAND & MACKINAW CITY

BAR | ALCOHOL SERVED

Amigo Burrito Mexican Grill Burritos, tacos and quesadillas made to order. Dine in or carry out. Located in Murray Hotel’s lobby. LD • $ 7260 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND,

$ | ENTRÉES INDER $10 $$ | $10-20

906.847.8010

$$$ | ABOVE $20

Cannonball Drive In Burgers, sandwiches, pizza, ice cream, fried pickles and more. Dine inside or out. Located at historic British Landing. BBQ hayrides peak season, call for reservations. Group meals and hayrides available. LD

EMMET AND NORTH

• $ 7641 BRITISH LANDING RD., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0932

Mackinac Island Mackinaw City

Carriage House at Hotel Iroquois Old-World charm, piano bar. Regional menu: whitefish, filet mignon and seafood. BLD • BAR • $$$ MAIN ST. ON THE WATER, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3321

Pellston Harbor Springs Petoskey Bay Harbor

Cawthorne’s Village Inn Planked whitefish, desserts.

BLD • BAR • $$ 1384 HOBAN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3542

Chuckwagon Mackinac Island’s quintessential diner. BL • Gaylord

Traverse City

Frankfort

Cadillac

PETOSKEY & MACKINAC STRAITS ALANSON/BAY HARBOR/ BRUTUS/CHEBOYGAN/ INDIAN RIVER/ODEN Black Mountain Lodge Hikers on Black Mountain love settling in post-walkabout for the glorious view of East Twin Lake and freshly prepared trout, perch, quail, lobster and homemade bread with honey-walnut butter.

D • BAR $$-$$$ 10621 TWIN LAKES RD., CHEBOYGAN, 231.625.9322

Brutus Camp Deli Breakfast spot famous for its homemade food, big portions and rustic décor. BL • $ 4086 US31,

BRUTUS, 231.529.2222

Dutch Oven Café and Deli French toast and farmers omelet stratas, sandwiches on famous homemade bread. BL

• $ 7611 U.S. 31, ALANSON, 231.548.2231

Steaks, fish, seafood. LD • BAR • $$$ 795

FRONT ST., BAY HARBOR, 231.752.2122

The Greenside Grille at Indian River Golf Club Serving a complete menu and Happy Hour offerings overlooking the 9th hole. LD • BAR • $–$$$ 3301 CHIPPEWA BEACH RD., INDIAN RIVER, 231.238.8515

Hack-Ma-Tack Inn Classic 1894-era hunting and fishing lodge on the Cheboygan River near Mullett Lake specializes in steaks and seafood. Dock space and overnight slips. LD • BAR • $-$$ 8131 BEEBE RD., CHEBOYGAN, 231.625.2919

Knot Just a Bar Contemporary sports and oyster bar perched on the Bay Harbor marina. B • $ 4165 MAIN STREET,

BAY HARBOR, 231.439.9989

Mulligan’s Inviting pub with steamed littleneck clams, shrimp-topped burgers and pasta. LD • BAR • $–$$ 320 NORTH MAIN ST., CHEBOYGAN, 231.627.2459

Original Pancake House Crepes, waffles, pancakes, omelettes, egg specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$ 840 FRONT ST., BAY HARBOR, 231.439.2770

72

Cudahy Chophouse Steaks, chops and fresh fish at this restaurant in Stonecliff Manor tucked away in the woods up island. Reservations recommended. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 8593 CUDAHY CIRCLE, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3355

Manistee

Fox & Rose

$ 7400 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0019

MyNorth.com

Dog House Hot dogs, nachos, chips and more. Picnic tables under big umbrellas. Located at Windermere Point on the Straits of Mackinac. LD • $ 7498 MAIN ST., MACKINAC

ISLAND, 906.847.6586

Feedbag Donuts made daily. Hot dogs, brats and more.

Located near the Surrey Hills Carriage Museum. BL • $ CADOTTE AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3593

Gate House Casual inside and outside eating with live music and televisions. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1547 CADOTTE AVENUE, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3772

Goodfellows Italian Chop House Fun Italian cuisine in a comfortable atmosphere. Classic and tasty sandwiches, pastas, pizzas, steaks and seafood. BLD • BAR • $$$ 1395

HOBAN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0270

Grand Hotel Main Dining Room—coat and tie for gentlemen, dresses or pantsuits for ladies, for full breakfast, lunch buffet and 5-course dinner. BLD • BAR • $$$ 286

GRAND AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND, 800.33-GRAND

Horn’s Gaslight Bar Southwestern cuisine. LD • BAR • $ 7300 MAIN ST., 906.847.6154

Huron Street Pub & Grill Classic pub food. LD • BAR •

$-$$ 7304 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.8255

Island House 1852 Grill Room—Prime rib, chicken, seafood, veal. BD • BAR Ice House BBQ—casual dining, burgers, gourmet sandwiches, sweet potato fries and creative martinis. LD • BAR • $$ 6966 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND,

STAR LINE DOCK, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.9911

7296 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.9901

Mission Point Resort Bistro on the Greens—LD • BAR • $ The Round Island Bar & Grill—Burgers and sandwiches LD • BAR • $ Chianti—upscale, affordable Italian. D • BAR • $$-$$$ Lakeside Marketplace—gourmet pizzas and hot dogs BLD • BAR • $$ 1 LAKESHORE DRIVE, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3312 Mr. B’s Pizza, coney dogs, soft-serve ice cream and more overlooking the Straits. L • $ 7367 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND,

906.847.3530

Murray Hotel Breakfast buffet of scrambled eggs, homestyle potatoes, sausage, bacon and more. B • $ 7260 MAIN

ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 855.696.8772

Mustang Lounge Traditional bar grub, burgers, dogs, pizza and an array of great fried munchies. BL • BAR • $-$$ 8 ASTOR ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.9916

Pancake House Breakfast sandwiches, omelets, Plath smoked meats, waffles, pancakes, deli sandwiches and more. BL • $ 102 MAIN ST., 906.847.3829 The Pink Pony Bar & Grill The island’s entertainment oasis—loud, bustling, with pastas and steaks. LD •

BAR • $$ MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3341

Smokey Jose's Water-side restaurant where BBQ and bourbon meet tacos & tequila. LD • BAR • $-$$ 7263 MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.0466

Seabiscuit Café Cozy exposed-brick walled pub in a restored 1880s bank building. Sip a brew and dine on a wonderfully eclectic menu. LD • BAR • $-$$ MAIN ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3611

Sushi Grand Mackinac Island’s first and only sushi restaurant opens this year. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1547 CADOTTE AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND, 906. 847.3772

Tea Room at Fort Mackinac Refreshments with a view of the harbor and Straits of Mackinac. BL • BAR • $ INSIDE FORT MACKINAC, MACKINAC ISLAND, 906.847.3331

Yankee Rebel Tavern Warm, casual restaurant highlighting updated renditions of American culinary classics in a rustic, colonial setting. LD • BAR • $-$$ 101 ASTOR ST., MACKI-

NAC ISLAND, 906.847.6249

Woods Restaurant Elegant mansion in the island’s interior that offers casual fine dining, extensive wine list and duck pin bowling. LD • BAR • $$$ 8655 CUDAHY CIR., MACKI-

NAC ISLAND, 906.847.3699

Audie’s Chippewa Room—Whitefish prepared six ways

by Chef Nicklaus Jaggi along with seasonal Michigan fare.

D • BAR • $$ The Family Room—Northwoodsy ambience, Formica tabletops. BLD • BAR • $$ 314 N. NICOLET ST., MACKINAW CITY, 231.436.5744

Darrow’s Family Restaurant 50s-era classic eatery open seasonally with fresh fish, roast pork and beef, sky-high pies, and other wholesome family fare. LD • $-$$ 301 LOU-

VIGNY, MACKINAW CITY, 231.436.551

Nonna Lisa’s Italian Ristorante Stromboli, chicken parmesan, rosemary salmon, Nutella pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 312

906.847.3347

S. HURON, MACKINAW CITY, 231.436.7901

Island Slice Pizzeria, bakery and ice cream shop. Located at the Horse Corral Mall. LD • $ 7248 MAIN ST., MACKINAC

Scalawags Whitefish & Chips Family restaurant with a nautical atmosphere features local whitefish, chowder and, of course, chips. LD • BAR • $ 226 E. CENTRAL, MACKINAW

ISLAND, 906.847.8100

Jockey Club at the Grand Stand Located on the first tee of The Jewel golf course. Sandwiches, salads, full dinner menu. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ GRAND AVE., MACKINAC ISLAND,

906.847.3331

Lucky Bean Coffee House Fresh pastries and coffee all day. $ 7383 MARKET ST., MACKINAC ISLAND, 248.342.2988 Mama LaRosa’s Pizza Buffet Pizza buffet with salad bar.

Located in the Murray Hotel. LD • $ 7260 MAIN ST., MACKINAC

ISLAND, 855.696.8772

CITY, 231.436.7777

CROSS VILLAGE/HARBOR SPRINGS/ PELLSTON/PETOSKEY American Spoon Café Gleaming black-and-white full-service cafe. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 413 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY,

231.347.7004

CHARLEVOIX/ANTRIM/OTSEGO/ restaurant guide | dining CRAWFORD/KALKASKA Barrel Back Smoked pork tacos, chopped salads, gourmet pizza and pasta, grilled beef tenderloin and more.

Over 20 craft beers on tap and signature cocktails. LD •

Palette Bistro Little Traverse Bay views with casual upscale dining, outdoor seating and an evolving seasonal menu. Wine bar, weekend brunch and popular happy hour.

Beards Brewery Pizza, burgers, salads, wings and culinary surprises including pho. LD • BAR $$ 215 E LAKE ST.

The Paper Station Fresh, relaxed and inventive foods including five signature s’mores. BLD • $ 145 E. MAIN ST.,

BAR $-$$$ 04069 M75, WALLOON LAKE, 231.535.6000

LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 321 BAY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3321

PETOSKEY, 231.753.2221

HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.4546

The Bistro Local favorite for saucer-sized homemade pancakes, home-cooked comfort food and soups like carrot bisque and chicken ’n’ dumpling. BL • $ 423 MICHIGAN

Pierson’s Grille & Spirits Ribs, whitefish, pizza, burgers and other staples of life. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 130 STATE ST.,

ST., PETOSKEY, 231.347.5583

Boyne Highlands Main Dining Room—Casual American with Scottish influences. Focus on fresh, seasonal, local ingredients. Seminole Pub. BLD • BAR • $–$$ 600 HIGHLANDS DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.3000

Chandler’s Brick-walled and -floored dining inside or on the patio offers two ways to savor this art-filled eatery’s upscale menu. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 215 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, BELOW SYMONS GENERAL STORE, 231.347.2981

City Park Grill Hemingway drank at the massive mahogany bar in this casual spot. Scratch cuisine, wood grill, hand-cut steaks, pastas, fresh whitefish, and live entertainment. LD • BAR • $$ 432 E. LAKE, PETOSKEY, 231.347.0101 Cormack’s Deli Award-winning deli featuring fabulous sandwiches, soups and bbq, open Mon.-Fri. 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. BL • $ 2569 CHARLEVOIX AVE., PETOSKEY, 231.347.7570 Dam Site Inn With views of the Maple River, this classic family dining establishment offers a bit of everything plus all-you-can-eat chicken dinners. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 6705

WOODLAND RD., PELLSTON, 231.539.8851

Douglas Lake Bar & Steakhouse Up North ambience, two fireplaces and a view of the lake pair with big steaks, whitefish, ribs and lamb. D • BAR • $$$ 7314 DOUGLAS LAKE

RD., PELLSTON, 539.8588

Duffy’s Garage and Grille Pasta, burgers, inventive pizzas LD • BAR • $$ 317 E LAKE ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3663 The Garden Café Farm-to-plate experience in a historic barn set on a working farm at Pond Hill Farm. Wine tasting from the on-site vineyard. L • LIGHT D • BAR • $ 5581 S LAKE SHORE DR., HARBOR SPRINGS , 231.526. FARM

Hoppies Landing Pizzas, grinders, nachos, local fish, specialty brews, beautiful views from the Observation Lounge. Pellston Regional Airport. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1395 US

31, PELLSTON, 231.539.8588

Jose’s Authentic taqueria with made-to-order Mex. LD • $ 309 PETOSKEY ST., PETOSKEY, 231.348.3299

Julienne Tomatoes Fresh sandwiches, comfort food, and homemade pastries like lemon raspberry bars, banana caramel flan. BL • $ 421 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY, 231.439.9250 Legs Inn Timber and driftwood landmark set on a bluff above Lake Michigan that has been serving Polish and American specialties for the better part of a century. Garden dining. Entertainment. LD • BAR 6425 LAKE SHORE DR.

(M-119), CROSS VILLAGE, 231. 526.2281

Mim’s Mediterranean Grill A sunny hangout with homemade falafel, kebabs, spinach pie, saganaki and other Greek delights. LD • $-$$ 1823 U.S. 31 NORTH, PETOSKEY,

231.348.9994

Manistee Pour Public House Charcuterie, gourmet sandwiches, salads, soups, bruschetta. LD • BAR • $-$$ 422 E MITCHELL

ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9800

Roast & Toast Hip coffeehouse with daily house-made soups, bread, bakery items and salads. On-site coffee roasting. A consistent MyNorth Red Hot Best winner. BLD •

$ 309 E. LAKE STREET, PETOSKEY, 231.347.7767

Rusty Saw Smokehouse Traditional barbecue. LD • $$ 3459 US31, BRUTUS, 231. 529.6574

Sam’s Graces Café & Bakery Artisanal bakery and brick oven pizzeria. BL • $ 3393 STATE ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.242.1230

Side Door Saloon Excellent sandwiches, quesadillas, steak, whitefish and pastas. LD • BAR • $ 1200 N. U.S. 31, PETOSKEY, 231. 347.9291

Small Batch Quiche, inventive breakfast and lunch sandwiches in a creative atmosphere. BL • $ 117 W MAIN ST., HAR-

BOR SPRINGS. 231.242.4655

Stafford’s Bay View Inn Gracious 1886 inn with a big veranda, glorious gardens and bay view, American fare. Sun. brunch. BLD • $$-$$$ 2011 WOODLAND, PETOSKEY, 231347.2771 Stafford’s Perry Hotel Circa-1899 hotel with a wraparound front porch and killer views of Little Traverse Bay. LD • BAR • $$–$$$ CORNER OF BAY & LEWIS, PETOSKEY, 231.347.4000

Stafford’s Pier Regional cuisine. Pointer Room—fresh seafood. LD • BAR • $$ Dudley’s Deck—LD • BAR • $$ Chart Room—D • BAR • $$ 102 BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6201 Tap30 Pourhouse Inventive sliders, award-winning chili, Frito pie and more along with 30 beers on tap. LD • BAR • $ 422 E MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231.881.9572

Teddy Griffin’s Roadhouse Casual spot to grab ribs, steak or fresh fish after golf or skiing and catch the game on TV. D • BAR • $$ 50 HIGHLAND PIKE RD., HARBOR SPRINGS,

231.526.7805

Terrace Inn Planked whitefish and housemade desserts in a Victorian setting. D • BAR • $$ 1549 GLENDALE, PETOSKEY,

231.347.2410

Thai Orchid Cuisine Outstandingly fresh and authentic noodles, curries and salads. LD • $-$$ 433 E. MITCHELL ST.,

Odawa Casino Resort Sage—Sumptuous fine dining with curried grilled lamb loin, salmon saltimbocca, seared scallops and an extensive wine list. D, SUN. BRUNCH • BAR • $$-$$$ 1760 LEARS RD., PETOSKEY, 877.442.6464

Old World Cafe European-style breakfast and lunch. BL •

$$ 6352 N. LAKESHORE DR., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.2148

Bellaire

Gaylord

Elk Rapids Traverse City

Kalkaska Grayling

CHARLEVOIX Cadillac & CHAIN OF LAKES ALDEN/ATWOOD/BELLAIRE/BOYNE COUNTRY/ RAPID CITY/WALLOON Bella Vita Casual fine dining Italian restaurant that utilizes the freshest ingredients Northern Michigan has to offer whenever possible. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 02911 BOYNE CITY RD., BOYNE CITY. 231.582.3341

Boyne City Taproom Craft beer, wood-fired pizzas, wraps, burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 220 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.459.4487

Boyne Mountain Resort Everett’s Restaurant & Lounge—Elegantly prepared fish and game dishes. BLD • BAR • $-$$$; Eriksen’s—Stunning view of the slopes and menu with Austrian and German touches. BLD • BAR • $-$$; Forty Acre Tavern—American pub fare with an extensive beer list. LD • BAR • $-$$ ONE BOYNE MOUNTAIN RD., BOYNE FALLS. 844.732.6875

Café Santé Beside Lake Charlevoix featuring bistro classics. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 1 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.582.8800

Corner Bistro French-inspired small plates, classic cocktails, wine, beer, Sunday brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 102 N.

BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7344

Dockside Burgers, beer and sunsets on Torch Lake. LD • BAR • $-$$ 6340 OLD TORCH LAKE DR., BELLAIRE, 231.377.7777

Friske Orchards Cafe Cheerful roadside restaurant features farm-fresh breakfasts, homemade soups, salads, sandwiches, and a bakery. BL • $ 10743 U.S. 31 S., ATWOOD,

231.599.2604

Lake Street Pub American pub with outdoor patio and firepit, BYO mac ‘n’ cheese, cocktails, 26 beers on tap. LD

• $ 202 S. LAKE ST., BOYNE CITY, 231.497.6031

Lunch Box Good home cooking and breakfast all the time. BL • $ 106 E. CAYUGA ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6678 The Muffin Tin Brain-bendingly good muffins, scones and lunch, too. BL • $ 9047 HELENA RD., ALDEN, 231.331.6808 Pelican's Nest Gourmet burgers, smoked ribs, sandwiches, salads and homemade desserts. D • BAR $-$$ 5085

PETOSKEY, 231.487.9900

SHANTY CREEK RD, BELLAIRE, 231.533.9000

Turkey’s Cafe and Pizzeria Special omelets, bagels, French toast, burgers, pizzas, calzones, and sandwiches— served by friendly folks in a quaint 110-year-old building.

Provisions Wine Lounge Sommelier curated wines by the glass and bottle, classic cocktails, Michigan craft beer and small plates. LD • BAR • $$ 123 WATER ST., BOYNE CITY,

SPRINGS, 231.242.4777

HARBOR SPRINGS, 231. 526.1904

Boyne City East Jordan

231.838.9875

Nancy Kelly's Restaurant Fine dining with a flair. Chefprepared gourmet food. Crafted cocktails and a full bar. LD New York Restaurant Looks like the East Coast, tastes like heaven. D • BAR • $$-$$$ CORNER OF STATE AND BAY,

Petoskey

Ellsworth

Populace Coffee Artisan coffee and tea bar serving EuFrankfort ropean-style pastries made on site and seasonally inspired lunch offerings. BL • BAR • $ 207 HOWARD ST., PETOSKEY,

BLD • $ 250 E. MAIN ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.6041

• BAR • $$-$$$ 230 N US 31, PELLSTON, 231.539.7100

Charlevoix

HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.526.2967

Mitchell Street Pub and Café Classic pub with fresh peanuts, fantastic nachos, Maurice salad, patty melts. LD

• BAR • $-$$ 426 E. MITCHELL ST., PETOSKEY, 231. 347.1801

Mackinaw City

231.582.2151

Vernales Restaurant Chop house, sports bar and wine bar with patio dining. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3018 M119, HARBOR

Red Mesa Grill Colorful decor and creative Latin American cuisine with Costa Rican and Argentinean influences punctuate this lively spot. LD • BAR • $$ 117 WATER ST.,

Villa Ristorante Italiano Chianti bottles hang from stucco walls and authentic handmade pasta, osso bucco and hand-rolled cannoli star. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 887 SPRING ST.,

BOYNE CITY, 231.582.0049

Willow Inspired farm-to-table modern American cuisine with global wine and craft cocktail bar. D • BAR • $$ 129

231.497.6100

PETOSKEY, 231.347.1440

EAST BAY ST., HARBOR SPRINGS, 231.412.6032

Stiggs Brewery Hand-crafted brews, from-scratch food like whitefish cakes, bourbon chicken sandwich, top sirloin wagyu steak. LD • BAR $-$$ 112 S. PARK ST., BOYNE CITY, The Strand at Sommerset Pointe Fresh fish and locally sourced ingredients. Steak, chicken and pasta also featured. Enjoy a breathtaking view of Sommerset Pointe Marina and Lake Charlevoix while you dine. Covered and open-patio dining. Arrive by car or boat! Hours vary seasonally. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 00970 MARINA DR., BOYNE CITY, 231.592.7080

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73

dining | local table

THE CHIP COUNT » 40 million-plus ounces of potato chips produced last year » 120,000–160,000 pounds of potatoes processed each week, depending on the season » No. 1 seller: Original Sea Salt, accounting for 40 percent of sales

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local table | dining

Crunch

Crunch

! h c n u

Cr

The real heroes of summer BBQs and picnics aren’t the juicy burgers or mom’s famous broccoli salad (sorry, mom). It’s these crispy, Traverse City-made potato chips that deserve a special spot on your plate.

BY CARLY SIMPSON | PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

Skin on. That’s the flavorful key to achieving a “little extra zip” in each chip, according to Ed and Chris Girrbach, the father-son duo who co-founded Great Lakes Potato Chip Co. in 2009.

Ed and Chris use only Michigan potatoes, proudly grown in Mecosta County by Sackett Potatoes. After the thick tubers are unloaded at the Great Lakes Potato Chip Co. production facility, they get washed, conveyed to the slicing machine, sent in small batches to the cookers, inspected and seasoned. The company produces nine classic flavors including Parmesan ranch and sea salt and vinegar, as well as seasonal favorites like cinnamon sugar and cherry BBQ. (Chris tells us there’s a new flavor coming this fall.) Once seasoned, each satisfyingly salty slice is off to be packaged, weighed, bagged and shipped.

Today, their coveted chips are sold in thousands of stores across the Midwest and a handful of other states. Michiganders can find Great Lakes Potato Chips at local markets, delis, coffeehouses and many big chain grocery stores.

So, when you plan your next gathering, the question isn’t if you should get a few extra bags of potato chips, but what flavors will you choose? (For those who can’t decide, the party pack is a people pleaser.) GREATLAKESPOTATOCHIPS.COM

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN '20

75

dining | restaurant guide Shanty Creek Resort Lakeview—Innovative regional cuisine at Shanty Creek Resort with a view of Lake Bellaire. Breakfast, lunch & dinner. The River Bistro— Breakfast buffet, sandwiches, pizzas and 45 regional beers on tap; Arnie’s at the Summit—Breakfast, Lunch, (springfall) Ivan’s Mountainside Gril—Schuss Village-Pub food.

JORDAN RD., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.7351

$$$ 216 W. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.732.5524

Royal Farms Boutique farm market with meat pasties, baked goods, award-winning pies, hard cider, wine. L •

BLD • BAR 1 SHANTY CREEK RD. (M-88), BELLAIRE, 800.678.4111

BAR • $-$$ 10445 N. US 31, ELLSWORTH, 231.599.3222

Tap Room 32 Twenty handles of Michigan craft beers and a menu of modern brew-friendly vittles like truffle fries and Korean beef tacos. D • $$ 141 NORTH COURT AVE., GAYLORD,

Short’s Brewing Co. Sip Joe Short’s fabulous brew, and dine from the deli menu in a renovated hardware store. LD

Scovie’s Gourmet Fresh salads, sandwiches, soups and baked goods star here. Dinner is bistro-style comfort food.

• BAR • $ 121 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.6622

LD • $-$$ 111 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.7827

Terrain Restaurant Honest yet ambitious contemporary American food with a focus on local ingredients. D • BAR •

Stafford’s Weathervane Local fish, seafood and regional cuisine in a Hobbit-style Earl Young stone structure with a massive fireplace overlooking the Pine River Channel. LD • BAR • $$ 106 PINE RIVER LN., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4311 Terry’s Place Small white-tablecloth eatery with a high tin ceiling. Try the perch or filet mignon. Mouthwatering. D

$$ 213 N BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.350.7301

Toonies Family restaurant serving fresh-cut steaks, local fish, ribs and some of the biggest pancakes in the north.

BLD • BAR • $-$$ 216 N. BRIDGE ST., BELLAIRE, 231.533.8513

Torch Riviera Pasta, seafood, steaks, ribs, pizza. D • BAR •

$$ 12899 CHERRY AVE., RAPID CITY, 231.322.4100

Walloon Lake Inn Exceptional culinary skills play out in a newly renovated, century-old pine-paneled lakeside lodge. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 4178 WEST ST., WALLOON LAKE

VILLAGE, 231.535.2999

CENTRAL LAKE/CHARLEVOIX/ EAST JORDAN/ELLSWORTH The Blue Pelican A vintage 1924 inn, home to a genteel front porch, Carolina-style pulled pork, steaks, seafood and a blend of down South and Up North hospitality. D • BAR • $$ 2535 M-88, CENTRAL LAKE, 231.544.2583

Bridge Street Taproom Michigan craft brews, beerfriendly small plates, local charcuterie and bird’s-eye views of the yacht traffic on Round Lake. D L • BAR • $-$$ 202 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3466

The Cantina Tacos and tequila with indoor and outdoor seating. Live entertainment. LD • BAR • $-$$ 101 VAN PELT

PLACE, CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.3612

Charlevoix Pizza Company Scratch-made dough, fresh ingredients, golden crust, prepared daily. Plus, cheesy bread and wings. LD • $-$$ 311 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX,

231.437.6300

East Park Tavern French-influenced American cuisine featuring prime rib, John Cross Whitefish and specialty cocktails at the Quay Restaurant and Terrace Bar in Charlevoix. LD •

Rowe Inn A unique fresh and from-scratch dining experience that has stood the test of time. D • BAR •$$$ 6303 E.

• BAR • $$ 112 ANTRIM ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2799

Torch Lake Cafe Inventive, ultra-fresh cuisine with sharable options like the seafood platter with black garlic butter. Or devour an elevated fried bologna sandwich with pickled green tomato and house Dijon all on your own...

BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 4990 US31 N, CENTRAL LAKE, 231.599.1111

Villager Pub Terry Left’s downstairs digs feature a ’50s atmosphere, whitefish, Mexican, ribs, sandwiches and pizza.

Sugar Bowl Restaurant This vintage 1919 eatery serves whitefish, prime rib and Greek specialties. BLD • BAR • $$-

989.748.8552

The Town Club of Elk Rapids After a renovation in 2019, this famous landmark has been rebuilt and is already being appreciated for its Friday Night Perch Fry, daily lunch specials and famous Prime Rib Thursdays. LD • BAR • $$ 133 RIVER STREET, ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.9914

Treetops Sylvan Resort Hunters Grille, & Sports Bar. Steak, burgers, ribs, pasta, signature pizza, chicken, fish and gluten-free selections. Featuring a selection of 100 Michigan craft beer, wines, fabulous martinis and the dynamic Cookies, our Treetops house band. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ WILKINSON RD., GAYLORD, 800.444.6711

Trout Town Café Homey fishermen spot with sautéed rainbow trout and eggs, pecan-crusted French toast for breakfast; braised brisket and home-roasted turkey for dinner. BLD • $ 306 ELM ST., KALKASKA, 231.258.2701

LEELANAU

LD • BAR • $-$$ 427 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.6925

Mackinaw City

ELK RAPIDS/GAYLORD/GRAYLING/ KALKASKA/MANCELONA B & B Express Signature burgers on the menu and great breakfasts. BLD • $-$$ 203 S CEDAR ST., KALKASKA, 231.258.9778 Bennethum’s Northern Inn Fresh eclectic cuisine and updated regional favorites in a cozy Northwoods setting.

Creative kids menu, Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 3917 SOUTH

OLD 27, GAYLORD, 989.732.9288

Cellar 152 Gourmet meals to take out or eat in a wine bar on the Elk River. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 152 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS,

Petoskey

Northport Leland Empire Frankfort

Gaylord

Suttons Bay Glen Arbor Cedar Traverse City

231.264.9000

Chef Charles’ Culinary Institute of America-trained Chef Charles Egeler makes gourmet pizzas, Ligurian-style takeout pesto, salads and sandwiches in a classic pizzeria. LD •

$ 147 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.8901

Manistee

Cadillac

LEELANAU COUNTY

Gates Au Sable Lodge Artful, home-cooking on the river with a takeout window for anglers. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 471

BAR • $$–$$$ 307 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7450

STEPHAN BRIDGE RD., GRAYLING, 989.348.8462

9 Bean Rows Bakery Artisan bakery and farmstead known for French-style breads, croissants and assorted pastries. BL

Esperance Gourmets will adore dishes prepared with dazzling technique in this specialty food and wine shop. D

The Iron Skillet All the classics (corned beef hash and the beloved smoked brisket) with some fun additions. BLD •

• $-$$$ 12853 U.S. 31 N., CHARLEVOIX, 231.237.9300

$-$$ 524 S. WILLIAMS ST., MANCELONA, 231.587.9778

That French Place Authentic French creperie and ice cream shop. BLD • $ 212 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.437.6037 The Front Porch Sit elbow-to-elbow with neighbors for fellowship and affordable home-cooked food. BL • $ 9235

The Local All-American breakfast and lunch done better.

45th Parallel Cafe Artsy spot with creative breakfast and lunch. BL • $-$$ 102 S. BROADWAY, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2233 Art’s Tavern Burgers, whitefish, steaks, Mexican and pizza. Smelt year-round at this legendary watering hole. BLD

Michaywé Inn the Woods Casual, Up Northy, with a lake view, steaks and seafood. LD • BAR • $–$$ 1535 OPAL LAKE RD.,

Barb’s Bakery House-baked goods famous for cinnamon twists, doughnuts, croissants and more. $ 112 N. MILL ST.,

BL • $$ 145 AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.498.2190

MAIN ST., ELLSWORTH, 231.588.2000

MICHAYWÉ, 989.939.8800

Great Lakes Whitefish & Chips Deep-fried whitefish.

The Old Depot 1900s train depot features homestyle burgers, steaks, chops, prime rib, seafood, pies and pastries. BLD • $$ 10826 M-32 E., JOHANNESBURG, 989.732.3115 Otsego Club American and international menu, nice wine list in a log lodge overlooking the Sturgeon River Valley.

The Duck Blind Grille—Casual evening dining. D • BAR • $$

LD • BAR • $$ 427 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.4374

Grey Gables Inn Graceful, intimate, Victorian atmosphere across from the harbor. D • BAR • $–$$$ 308 BELVEDERE AVE., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.9261

Jordan Inn Victorian B&B with terrific eggs Benedict and crêpe-style pancakes, fresh lunches and European-style dinners by reservation. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 288 MAIN ST., EAST JORDAN, 231.536.9906

Kelsey B’s Lakeside Food & Spirits Dine on burgers, steaks and fish and soak up the Lake Charlevoix views.

LD • BAR • $-$$ 230 FERRY AVE., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2960

The Landing Restaurant Come by boat or car and watch the Ironton Ferry motor back and forth while you eat at this newly renovated lakeside fun-food spot on Lake Charlevoix. Beach fries, New England lobster roll, great burgers, bbq and other fab summertime food. LD • BAR • $-$$ 10231 FERRY RD., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.2960

Pigs Eatin’ Ribs Real smokehouse with mouthwatering BBQ. Weekend breakfast. BLD • $-$$ 1418 BRIDGE ST., CHARLEVOIX, 231.547.7447

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696 E. MAIN ST., GAYLORD, 989.732.5181

Paddle Hard Brewing A fun-loving community hangout with artisan tacos, pizzas and brews. LD • BAR 227 E MICHI-

GAN AVE., GRAYLING, 989.745.6388

Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen Every day’s Mardi Gras at this festive spot, where Cajun, Creole, seafood, sandwiches and big brunches accompany lively zydeco, jazz and blues.

LD • BAR • $-$$ 617 AMES ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231.264.0530

Shirley’s Café An ultra-friendly, all-homemade oasis. BLD • $ 528 S. WILLIAMS ST., MANCELONA, 231.587.1210

Siren Hall Sup on classics such as short ribs, steak frites, fresh-off-the-plane fruits de mer and homey sides like risotto “tots” and bleu cheese green beans. LD • BAR • $-$$$ 151 RIVER ST., ELK RAPIDS, 231. 264.6062

Spike’s Keg O’ Nails An Up North classic for burgers since 1933. LD • BAR • $ 301 N. JAMES ST., GRAYLING, 989.348.7113

• $ 9000 E. DUCK LAKE RD., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6658

• BAR • $-$$ 6487 W. WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3754

NORTHPORT, 231.386.5851

Blu Exquisite regional cuisine from chef Randy Chamberlain in an intimate setting on Sleeping Bear Bay. D • BAR • $$$$ LAKE ST., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.2530

The Bluebird A mainstay for locals and boaters since 1927. Specialties: cinnamon rolls, whitefish, seafood, steak, pasta, creative ethnic feasts during the off-season. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR $$ 102 E. RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9081 Big Cat Brewing Company Casual brewery serving comfort food classics including pot roast, French toast and Grandma Ackley’s Carrot Cake. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 8699 S.

GOOD HARBOR TR., CEDAR, 231.228.2282

Boone Docks Log lodge with roomy deck, shrimp, burgers, steaks. LD • BAR • $$ 5858 MANITOU BLVD., GLEN ARBOR,

231.334.6444

Boone’s Prime Time Pub Seafood, steaks and burgers in a cozy cabin with a fireplace and a lively, friendly wait staff.

LD • BAR • $$ 102 ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.6688

Broomstack Kitchen & Taphouse Great burgers, handcut fries, Sicilian-style pizza. Curling in the winter. LD • BAR

• $ 172 W BURDICKVILLE RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.8869

restaurant guide | dining The Cove Seafood, steaks and great bar food (don’t miss the Chubby Mary—a bloody Mary with a smoked chub in it!) served up in the heart of Fishtown on the Leland River. Sunny days, catch a seat at Rick’s Café on the deck LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 111 W. RIVER ST., LELAND, 231.256.9834 Dick’s Pour House Homemade soups and pies, sandwiches, pizza. LD • BAR • $-$$ 103 W. PHILIP ST., LAKE LEELANAU, 231.256.9912

Fig's Sandwiches, breakfasts, salads homemade with local ingredients. Great selection of vegetarian dishes. BL • $$ 202 WEST MAIN STREET, LAKE LEELANAU, 231.256.7720

Fischer’s Happy Hour Tavern Rustic family-style roadhouse known for burgers, soups and raspberry pie in season.

LD • BAR • $ 7144 N. M-22, BETWEEN NORTHPORT AND LELAND, 231.386.9923

Funistrada Casual trattoria features Italian specialties such as veal saltimbocca and lasagna. D • BAR • $$ 4566

MCFARLANE, MAPLE CITY/BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3900

Garage Bar & Grill BBQ & bar eats are served at this pared-down watering hole with garage doors & a dogfriendly patio. LD • BAR • $-$$ 108 S WAUKAZOO ST., NORTH-

PORT, 231.386. 5511

NEW Gold Baby Biscuits Homemade biscuit sandwiches, with sweet and savory selections, as well as special treats. BL • $-$$ 206 N. SAINT JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY Hearth & Vine Café at Black Star Farms Farm-to-table menu that pairs with Black Star Farm’s wine, cider and craft cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 10844 E REVOLD RD., SUTTONS BAY, 231.944.1297

N E W New Bohemian Cafe A neighborhood coffee shop

and deli, also home to Baia Estate Winery tasting room. BL

• $-$$ 110 S. WAUKAZOO ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1034

Pegtown Station Pizza, subs, burgers, sandwiches, salads and breakfast—all done well. BL • $ 8654 S MAPLE CITY

231.223.4030

Riverfront Pizza & Deli Pizza, sandwiches, soup, salad and daily specials. Lots of desserts. Deck on the Crystal River. DL • $-$$ 6281 WESTERN AVE., GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.3876 Shipwreck Café Fresh, homemade pretzel, Italian herb and plain buns made daily for made-to-order sandwiches.

13512 OLD PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4333

RD., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6692

BL • $ 11691 S. LACORE RD., EMPIRE, 231.835.2580

Streetside Grille Seafood, burgers, pasta, flatbread pizzas, great beer list and more. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 111 N. ST.

JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4199

The Tribune Ice Cream and Eatery House-cured lox, breakfast burritos, meatloaf sammies and burgers share the menu at this fun Northport eat spot. BLD • $ 110 E. NAG-

ONABA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1055

Trish’s Dishes Crepes, omelets, salads, gourmet sandwiches. BLD • $ 407 E MAIN ST., LELAND, 231.994.2288 Western Avenue Grill Birch-bark-rustic motif with canoes hung from the rafters. Pasta, seafood, whitefish and burgers. LD • BAR • $$ 6680 WESTERN AVE. (M-109), GLEN ARBOR, 231. 334.3362

BAR • $$ 303 N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.1175

1 WOODRIDGE RD. (OFF M-22), GLEN ARBOR, 231.334.5000

Gaylord

JOSEPH, SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.0202

La Bécasse Part the heavy velvet curtains and find a Provençal paradise. D • BAR • $$-$$$ C-675 & C-616, BURDICKVILLE, 231.334.3944

Leland Lodge Bogeys—BLD • BAR • $-$$ 565 PEARL ST., LELAND, 231.256.9848

Little Traverse Inn Old World gastro pub highlights the food and beer of the British Isles. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 149 E. HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY. 231. 228.2560

NEW Lylah’s Sandwiches and salads made-to-order,

homemade soups, sauces and dressings. BL • $ 99 W. 4TH

ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.994.2700

The Manor on Glen Lake Fine family dining in a renovated lakeside inn. LD • BAR • $-$$ 7345 W. GLENMERE

RD., GLEN LAKE AT THE NARROWS, 231.334.0150

Market 22 Deli, pizza, bakery. Eat in or take out. BLD • BAR • $ 497 E HARBOR HWY., MAPLE CITY, 231.228.6422

Martha’s Leelanau Table A European-style cafe with an emphasis on regional cuisine made from scratch, including some gluten free dishes and pastries. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 413

N. ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.2344

North Country Grill & Pub The Boone family keeps the classics (whitefish, prime rib, and yellow belly perch) while flirting with fondue, fried pickles, Phillys and Cubans. LD •

BAR • $$ 420 ST. JOSEPH ST., SUTTONS BAY, 231.271.5000

The Mitten Brewing Co. Small craft brewery featuring appetizers, indoor lounge, covered patio and beer garden.

LD • BAR • $ 112 W. NAGANOBA ST., NORTHPORT, 231.386.1101

CITY, 231.223.7280

Peninsula Grill Roadhouse with cozy fireplace, wings, burgs, and regional Northern fare. LD • BAR • $$ 14091 CENTER

RD. TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.7200

DOWNTOWN TRAVERSE CITY Alliance James Beard-nominee Pete Peterson teams with up-and-coming chef James Bloomfield at this Warehouse District bistro. LD • BAR • $-$$ 144 HALL ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

Old Mission Acme Traverse City

$-$$ 423 UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 922.9515

Brew Café and Bar Hip spot for a drink and light meal before or after performances at the Opera House. BLD • $

Interlochen

Manistee

Amical Friendly French bistro with a bay view, fireplace and street patio. Prix fixe menu from 4–5:30pm. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 229 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY,

NE W Benedict A family-friendly restaurant offering breakfast and lunch sandwiches, pastries, salads, soups and more. BL • $ 405 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1000 Blue Tractor Cook Shop An Old Town favorite with from-scratch farmer food. Be sure to check out The Shed next door where you'll find a beer garden and a food truck where sliders are served up hot. The comfy burger bar boasts a list of over 25 Michigan-crafted beers. LD • BAR •

Petoskey

Hang-On Express Thai and Chinese classics. LD • $ 316 ST.

$-$$ 5019 BAY SHORE DR. (M-22), OMENA, 231.386.7393

Old Mission Tavern Prime rib, fresh fish, pastas and ethnic specials—this lushly landscaped spot hosts two fine-art galleries: Bella Galleria and sculptor/owner Verna Bartnick’s studio. LD • BAR • $$ 17015 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE

VERSE CITY, 231. 922.8022

SHORE DR., SUTTONS BAY, 231.866.4445

Knot Just a Bar Fish and burgers in a modern, beachy pub perched over pretty Omena Bay. LD • BAR •

FRIDAY & SATURDAY 5PM–9PM • BAR • $-$$ 13512 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.4222

Bay Bread Company Bakery 43 artisanal breads, sandwiches, soups and salads. BLD • $ 601 RANDOLPH ST., TRA-

Mackinaw City

Frankfort

Mission Table Farm-to-table restaurant serving seasonal, locally sourced fare and craft cocktails. D THURSDAY,

231.941.8888

GRAND TRAVERSE

Hop Lot Brewing Co. Family-friendly microbrewery with four-season patio and games serving ribs, tacos, wings and a s’more kit to top it all off. LD • BAR • $-$$ 658 S WEST-BAY

$$ 11015 FRONT ST., EMPIRE, 231.326.5506

Jolly Pumpkin Wood-fired steaks, fresh fish, and artisan pizzas along with fresh ales crafted on site. LD • BAR • $$

231.642.5545

Wren Contemporary comfort food and a constantly changing menu to feature locally sourced ingredients. D •

The Homestead Nonna’s Restaurant—Classically inspired, contemporary Italian cuisine. D • BAR $$-$$$ Beppi’s Sports Bar—Hand-tossed pizzas, paninis and salads. D • BAR • $-$$

Joe’s Friendly Tavern A rustic, comfy spot with bar food: whitefish, burgers, sandwiches, chili and soup. BLD • BAR •

Boathouse Restaurant Casually elegant spot with great steaks, seafood, large local wine selection. Sunday brunch. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 14039 PENINSULA DR., TRAVERSE CITY,

108 E. FRONT STREET, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.2739

Cadillac

Bubba’s Happening Front Street spot with battered mahi and chips, burgers, chimis, salads and tacos. BLD • BAR • $

GRAND TRAVERSE AREA

428 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.995.0570

The Cooks’ House A sweet little dollhouse of a spot, home to sustainable local cuisine with a French sensibility.

INTERLOCHEN/LAKE ANN Bradley’s Pub & Grille Burgers, ribs, bluegill, brisket, trout and so much more. LD BAR • $-$$ 10586 US31, INTER-

LD • $$-$$$ 115 WELLINGTON ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8700

Bud’s A reprise of the original Bud’s gas/bait shop is a cool hangout for locals, vacationers and Interlochen students. Try the cappuccinos and monkey bread, burgers and original sandwiches. BLD • $ 3061 M-137, INTERLOCHEN,

Dayclub Fine dining experience for the whole family at the West Bay Beach Holiday Inn Resort. LD • BAR • $$-$$$

LOCHEN, 231.275.6401

Cousin Jenny’s Cornish Pasties Homemade pasties. BLD • $ 129 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7821

231.276.9090

Dilbert’s Soups, sandwiches, omelets and other home cooking served in a homey atmosphere. BLD • $ 11303 U.S. 31, INTERLOCHEN, 231.275.3005

Hofbrau Lively cedar-paneled former general store serves locals and Interlochen performers. Steak, seafood, bluegill and barbecue. Sun. brunch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 2784 M-137, INTERLOCHEN, 231.276.6979

615 FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.3700

The Dish Cafe Eclectic menu with creative salads, quesadillas, enormous wraps, sandwiches and smoothies. LD •

BAR • $ 108 S. UNION, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.2233

Firefly A dazzling small-plate menu, sushi, steaks and burgs at a sophisticated hotspot on the river. BL • $-$$ 310 S. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.1310

Folgarelli’s Market & Wine Shop Lunch & dinner (eat here or to go), gourmet groceries, wines imported & local, vast selection of cured meats and cheese. LD • BAR • $-$$

Maddy’s Tavern Burgers, pizza, pasta, sandwiches. Friday night specials. LD • BAR • $-$$ 9205 U.S. 31, INTERLOCHEN,

424 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7651

OLD MISSION PENINSULA

FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2727

Bad Dog Deli Eat shrimp pizza, pepperoni pesto rolls or flavorful Boar’s Head sandwiches in this peninsula outpost.

Frenchies Famous Three tables and carryout, offers superb hot sandwiches and espresso drinks. LD • $ 619 RAN-

231.276.6244

L • $ 14091 CENTER RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.223.9364

The Franklin Hip downtown eatery featuring flatbread, salads, lamb and beef burgers, bistro dinners. Fabulous wine, craft beer, hard cider and perry. LD • BAR • $-$$ 160 E.

DOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1228

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

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77

dining | restaurant guide Georgina’s Asian and Latin taqueria. LD • $ 236 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1555

The Good Bowl Fresh, authentic Vietnamese eatery. Donates $1 for every bowl to the charity of your choice. LD • BAR $-$$ 328 E FRONT ST.,TRAVERSE CITY, 231.252.2662

The Green House Café Sandwiches, soups and salads. BL • $ 115 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.7687

Grand Traverse Pie Co. Exceptional cream and fruit pies, coffee, baked goods, pot pies, chicken salad and quiche. BL •

$ 525 W. FRONT ST. AND 101 N. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.7437

Little Bohemia Famous Olive Burger featured on Food Network. Established 1932, family tavern in The West End District, full menu, free off street parking, seasonal outdoor seating. LD 540 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.6925 Little Fleet A bar/food truck compound that hosts the likes of Pigs Eatin’ Ribs (all things pork), Roaming Harvest (pork tacos) Anchor Station (burgers and more). LD • BAR • $ 448 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.1116

Mackinaw Brewing Co. Nautical-themed brewpub offers great house-smoked meats, several styles of beers, tasty char-burgers, fish and ribs. LD • BAR • $$ 161 E. FRONT ST.,

N E W Smokehouse Mac Shack Inventive mac n’ cheese

to go. LD • $ 439 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5001 Sparks BBQ Smoking up the real thing—pulled pork and chicken, brisket, ribs and jerky. Don’t miss the BBQ Sundae.

LD • $-$$ 201 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.633.7800

Slate Prime cuts of beef and the freshest seafood with inspired toppings and sides. D • BAR • $$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

Sorellina Authentic Italian pasta, zuppa and insalate. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 250 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5912

Taproot Cider House Brick oven pizza, great salads, inventive entrees paired with hard cider, microbrews, wine and spirits. LD • BAR • $-$$ 300 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2500

The Towne Plaza Eclectic American cuisine focusing on local ingredients with extensive outdoor seating and a casual atmosphere. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 202 E. CASS ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.090

Thirsty Fish Sports Grille Family-friendly sports bar with seafood, burgers, steaks, pasta and a 600-gallon fish tank.

Live music on the patio. LD • BAR • $-$$ 221 E. STATE ST.,

TRAVERSE CITY, 933.1100

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.1165

Mama Lu’s Modern Day Taco Shop Fresh tortillas with a mix of traditional and modern ingredients at this hip, fun taqueria and bar. LD • BAR • $$ 149 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE

Warehouse Kitchen & Cork Seasonally inspired farm-tofork restaurant inside Hotel Indigo. BLD • BAR • $-$$$ 263

CITY, 231.943.2793

Milk & Honey Salads, sandwiches and homemade ice cream all made with local ingredients that are natural, GMO-free and organic when possible. Gluten-free options available. LD • BAR • $ 250 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1036

Minerva’s In the historic Park Place Hotel. Italian-American menu, elaborate Sun. brunch. BLD • BAR • $$ 300 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5093

Mode’s Bum Steer Classic steakhouse serves tender, well-aged charbroiled Black Angus steaks, seafood, ribs, soup, sandwiches. LD • BAR • $$ 125 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE

CITY, 231.947.9832

North Peak Brewing Co. Wood-fired pizzas, seafood, sandwiches, microbrewed beer and a jam-packed bar scene.

LD • BAR • $$ 400 W. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7325

Omelette Shoppe Vast array of omelets, homemade breads and pastries, soup and sandwiches. BLD • $ 124

CASS, 231.946.0912, AND 1209 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0590

Paesano’s Charming spot with cozy booths puts pizza pie on a pedestal. LD • $ 447 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.5740

Pangea’s Pizza Pub Craft pies, creative toppings. LD • BAR $-$$ 135 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.9800

NEW Park Street Cafe Fresh-made gourmet sandwiches

(breakfast waffle sandwich!) and other grab-and-go foods.

Indoor and outdoor seating. BL • $ 113 S. PARK ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.239.8150

Patisserie Amie French bakery and bistro. BAR • LD • $-$$$ 237 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.922.9645

Poppycock’s Fresh seafood, pasta, unique sandwiches and salads, including vegetarian specialties and awardwinning desserts. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128. E. FRONT ST. TRAVERSE CITY, 231.941.7632

Rare Bird Brewery The likes of pork belly sliders, oysters on the half shell and great burgers served up alongside great beer. LD • BAR • $$ 229 LAKE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2053 Red Ginger Wrap yourself in fresh, sleek surroundings and the spicy-exotic flavors of Asia. D • BAR • $-$$$ 237 E. FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1733

Scalawags Whitefish and Chips Ultra-fresh Great Lakes fish fry. LD • $ 303 E. STATE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.933.8700 Seven Monks Taproom Pair any of 46 beers on tap (including European Trappist ales) with your burger, thin crust gourmet pizza, salad or lively sides like sweet potato frites and Scotch egg. LD • BAR • $-$$ 128 S. UNION ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4807

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WEST GRANDVIEW PARKWAY, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0500

White on Rice Sushi & ramen served carry out or dine in. Text or call ahead for orders. LD • $-$$ 510 W 14TH ST.,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.633.7423

TRAVERSE CITY–EAST Cottage Café Comfortable food, coffee and tea press pots, friendly service, reasonable prices in a unique Traverse City experience. BLD • $-$$ 472 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9261

Don’s Drive In A ’50s-style diner and drive-in with booths, burgers, fries, shakes, nostalgic jukebox. LD • $

TRAVERSE CITY–SOUTH Agave Mexican Grill Authentic, freshly made Mex. LD • BAR • $-$$ 851 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4408

Boone’s Long Lake Inn Steaks, prime rib, seafood, daily specials. D • BAR • $$ 7208 SECOR RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.3991

Centre Street Café Fine and flavorful sammies. Saturday brunch 10:30am-6pm. Mon.-Fri. Open 10am-3pm. Closed Sunday. BL • $ 1125 CENTRE ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.5872 The Filling Station Microbrewery Thin-crusted woodfired flatbreads and flavorful house brews revitalize the Depot. LD • BAR • $-$$ 642 RAILROAD PLACE, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.8168

Hunan Authentic Chinese eatery that’s hidden behind a Taco Bell. L (TUE-SUN) D (FRI-SUN) • $ 1425 S. AIRPORT RD.,

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.1388

The Kitchen Salads, wraps, tacos. All to go. BL & EARLY D • $ 1254 WOODMERE AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.TOGO Mulligan’s Pub and Grill Stuffed burgers, extravagant salads and sammies, ribs and whitefish at this year-round establishment at the Crown Golf Course. LD • BAR • $-$$ 2430 W. CROWN DR., AT THE CROWN GOLF CLUB, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.2975

Oryana’s Lake Street Café Classic Detroit-style coney and grill with mouthwatering Greek treats like crunchy falafel, rich spanakopita, gyros and lemon soup. BLD • $-$$ 260 E. TENTH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.0191

Right Brain Brewery Traverse City’s beloved brew pub now at a new location. BAR • $ 225 E. 16 ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.944.1239

Sauce at Incredible Mo’s Artisan pizza, pasta, salad in a kid-friendly atmosphere. LD •BAR • $-$$ 1355 SILVER LAKE CROSSINGS BLVD, GRAWN, 231.944.1355

Willie’s Rear Full breakfasts, sandwiches, burgers. Counter and table seating. BL • $ 1315 W. S. AIRPORT RD., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.5506

2030 U.S. 31 N., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.1860

Grand Traverse Resort and Spa Aerie—16th-floor panorama of East Bay and regional fine dining. Music on weekends. D • BAR • $$-$$$ Sweetwater American Bistro—BLD • $$ U.S. 31 N., ACME, 231.534.6000

La Señorita Bustling Mexican cantina with fajitas, jumbo margaritas. LD • BAR • $ 2455 N. US 31 S., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.8820

McGee’s No. 72 Gourmet burgers, fries, pizza and other sophisticated bar food. D • BAR • $$ 4341 M72 E., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.8800

TRAVERSE CITY–WEST Apache Trout Grill Rough-hewn eatery affords a great bay view along with ribs, steak, pasta and salad. LD • BAR • $$ 13671 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.7079

Harrington’s By the Bay Sunday brunch, seafood, steaks, burgers, sandwiches—with a bay view. BLD • BAR

• $-$$$ 13890 SOUTH WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.421.9393

Nada’s Gourmet Deli & Mediterranean Cuisine Authentic hummus, tabbouleh, chicken shawarma, falafel, the best baklava in Traverse City. LD • $ 542 W FRONT ST,

Mr. C’s Pub and Grill Fine pub food with excellent wines and craft beers—paired with menu entrees for your convenience. LD • BAR • $$ M-72 E., WILLIAMSBURG, 231.267.3300 Randy’s Diner Soups, salads, sandwiches, all-you-caneat cod. BLD • $ 1103 S. GARFIELD, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.946.0789 Red Mesa Grill Colorful spot with a fireplace, flights of tequila and Latin American cuisine. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1544

VERSE CITY, 231.252.4648

Reflect Bistro and Lounge at Cambria Suites Hotel Breakfast, dinner and Happy Hour 4-7 p.m. daily. BD • BAR

Sleder’s Family Tavern Bar fare and entertainment under the original tin ceiling in one of Michigan’s oldest saloons.

Kiss Randolph the moose before you leave. LD • BAR • $-$$

US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.938.2773

• $-$$$ 255 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.778.9000

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.6779

PepeNero From-scratch southern Italian cuisine. LD • BAR • $$ 700 COTTAGEVIEW DR., STE. 30, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1960

Red Spire Brunch House Classic American fare: breakfast and lunch all day. BL • $$ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., ST. 30, TRA-

717 RANDOLPH ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.947.9213

Smoke and Porter Public House An American smokehouse where farm-to-table and whole beast butchery meet the fire pits. Serving microbrews, wine, and liquor.

The Silver Swan Ethnic fare and killer desserts. LD • $

The Soup Cup, a MicroSouperie Homemade soups, grilled cheese, Belgian fries. L • $ 718 MUNSON AVE., TRAVERSE

TRAVERSE CITY. 231.943.1453

LD • BAR • $-$$$ 1752 US31, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.642.5020

CITY, 231.932.7687

Turtle Creek Casino & Hotel Bourbons 72—Seafood, prime rib and more. D • BAR • $-$$$ 7741 M-72, WILLIAMSBURG,

13692 S. WEST BAY SHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.932.0203

Spanglish Authentic, homemade Mexican fare with occasional American accents. BLD • $ 1333 YELLOW DR., Sugar 2 Salt Traverse City's newest brunch spot (otherwise known as S2S) shakes up the same ol' same ol' with dishes like duck (yes, for breakfast) and everything served up with what is in season. B • $-$$ 1371 GRAY DR., SUITE 300,

231.534.8888

TRAVERSE CITY, 231.409.8382

Thai Café Eat in or take out authentic Thai cuisine in a cafe atmosphere. LD • $-$$ 1219 E FRONT ST., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.1303

Trattoria Stella Hip locally sourced fare with an Italian accent. LD • BAR • $$-$$$ 1200 W. ELEVENTH, TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.8989

restaurant guide | dining The Underground Cheesecake Co. Housemade soups, sandwiches and a huge array of incredibly delish cheesecakes. L • $ 800 COTTAGEVIEW DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.929.4418 West End Tavern Craft cocktails, wood-roasted chicken and more elevated pub fare served up beside West Bay. LD • BAR • $$ 12719 SOUTH WEST BAYSHORE DR., TRAVERSE CITY, 231.943.2922

BENZIE / MANISTEE / WEXFORD Mackinaw City

Ursa Major Bistro Breakfast, burgers sandwiches. BLD •

$-$$ 245 S BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4250

LD• BAR • $-$$ 318 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4121

CADILLAC After 26 Casual eatery dedicated to employing adults with developmental disabilities and cognitive impairment. BLD • $ 127 W. CASS ST., CADILLAC, 231.468.3526, AFTER26PROJECT.ORG

Blue Heron Cafe Dazzling upscale sandwiches, soups and salads as well as from-scratch pastries. BL • $ 304 N. MITCH-

Frankfort Beulah Benzonia

Traverse City

Manistee

Cadillac

BENZIE, MANISTEE, CADILLAC BENZONIA/BEULAH/HONOR/THOMPSONVILLE The Cherry Hut Homemade cherry pies, jams, jellies, redand-white-clad servers and American-style food. LD • $-$$ 211 N. MICHIGAN AVE. (US 31), BEULAH, 231.882.4431

Cold Creek Inn Perch, planked whitefish, homemade pizza, burgers. LD • BAR • $-$$ 185 S.BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH,

231.882.5531

Crystal Café American café-style breakfast and lunch. BL • $ 1681 BENZIE HWY. BENZONIA, 231.882.9565

Crystal Mountain Resort Thistle Pub & Grille—Woodpaneled eatery, continental and Scottish specialties. LD • BAR • $-$$$ Wild Tomato Restaurant & Bar—Family Favorites. BLD • BAR • $-$$ M-115, THOMPSONVILLE, 231.946.3585 OR 231.378.2000

NEW Five Shores Brewing Craft brewery with appetizers to share and pressed sandwiches. LD • BAR • $-$$ 163 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4400

Geno’s Sports Bar and Grill Burgers, broasted chicken, pizza, soups, salads. LD • BAR • $ 14848 THOMPSON AVE., THOMPSONVILLE, 231.378.2554

Hungry Tummy Restaurant Full breakfasts (chickenfried steak, eggs and gravy ... ), pizza, broasted chicken and more. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 226 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH,

231.882.5103

L’chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and bagels. BL • $ 274 S. BENZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.882.5221 Lucky Dog Bar and Grille Burgers, smoked wings, brats, sandwiches, craft beer, cocktails. LD • BAR • $-$$ 223 S. BEN-

The Glenwood Casual dining, almond-battered shrimp and bleu cheese filet mignon, homemade desserts.

Open for dinner at 5 p.m. D • BAR • $–$$$ 4604 MAIN ST.,

Cadillac Grill This lodge–style, car-themed eatery’s cuisine runs from bar food to fine dining. LD • BAR • $$ 7839 E. 46 K RD.,

Hotel Frankfort Fine dining served up at this in-town inn.

MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.6150

Coyote Crossing Resort Full bar & restaurant with Northwoods décor set on beautiful property in the Manistee National Forest. American fare. Live music. Open six days a week year round. LD • BAR • $$ 8593 S. 13 RD., CADILLAC, 231.862.3212

Onekama

ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4114

ONEKAMA, 231.889.3734

Clam Lake Beer Company 40 craft beers on tap, woodfired pizzas, grilled angus burgers. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 106

Gaylord

The Fusion Asian delights like fiery curries and lettuce wraps (plus creative cocktails) served in a serene atmosphere on Frankfort’s main drag. BLD • $–$$ 300 MAIN

ELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5461

OVERLOOKING THE ELDORADO GOLF COURSE, CADILLAC, 231.779.3663

Petoskey

The Fillmore House-crafted burgers, salads and woodfired pizzas (p.m. only), all rich with Michigan ingredients.

Evergreen Resort Terrace Room restaurant—Stellar water and woods views plus American fare, Sun. brunch and sandwiches. BLD • BAR • $$ Curly’s Up North Bar & Grill—Casual bar food in a snug knotty-pine setting. Live entertainment.

LD • BAR • $$ 7880 MACKINAW TRAIL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9947

Hermann’s European Cafe Austrian-born master pastry chef Hermann Suhs creates international cuisine, seasonal specialties and divine desserts in an alpenhaus-style dining room. LD • BAR • $$ 214 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.9563 Herraduras Mexican Bar & Grill Authentic dishes like flautas, enchiladas and carnitas, plus shrimp chimis and steaks. LD • BAR • $ 1700 S. MITCHELL ST., CADILLAC, 231.775.4575 Lakeside Charlie’s A fine deck on Lake Mitchell. The hunt club–style restaurant features burgers, aged beef, fish and wild game. LD • BAR • $$ 301 S. LAKE MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.5332

Maggie’s Tavern Chili, burgers, steaks, wet burritos and kid selections are served up in a lively 19th-century setting.

LD • BAR • $ 523 N. MITCHELL, CADILLAC, 231.775.1810

BLD • $-$$$ 231 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.8090

House of Flavors 50s diner featuring family style breakfasts, lunch and dinner. And, yes, a full ice cream menu.

BLD • $-$$ 284 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.887.4600

L’chayim Delicatessen NY-style deli with sandwiches and bagels. BL • $-$$ 325 MAIN STREET, FRANKFORT, 231.352.5220 Lighthouse Café Robust breakfasts, soups, salads, sandwiches, burgers, steak, perch, liver and onions. BLD • $–$$ 735 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA. 231.352. 5273

Mayfair Tavern Burgers, steaks, fish. LD • BAR $-$$ 515 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9136

North Channel Brewing Co. Watch the action at the drawbridge in a refined industrial atmosphere with meats smoked daily and excellent craft beers on tap. LD • BAR $-$$ 86 WASHINGTON ST, MANISTEE, 231.299.1020

Papano’s Pizza Traditional pizza pie. D • $–$$ 334 MAIN ST.,

FRANKFORT, 231.352.6700

Rico’s East Lake’s welcoming, true North watering hole with fresh smelt, burgs, and smoky adobo beef spring rolls. LD • BAR • $-$$ 900 CABERFAE HWY. (M-55), MANISTEE, 231.723.3721

River Street Station Cheers-esque, smoky burgerand-ribs joint with a summer deck that affords an up-close view of the freighter action along the Manistee River. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 350 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.723.8411

Rock's Landing Eclectic menu combines local ingredients with ethnic influences. Intimate dining, feet from Crystal Lake. D • BAR $$ 1157 CRYSTAL DR., FRANKFORT, 231.399.0158 Stormcloud Brewing Brewing Belgian-inspired ales to pair with inventive, smart bistro fare. LD • BAR • $-$$ 303 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.0118

FRANKFORT/ELBERTA/ONEKAMA/ MANISTEE/ARCADIA Arcadia Bluffs Golf Club & Restaurant Fresh fish, aged beef, Mediterranean rack of lamb and an emphasis on local ingredients all served with a spectacular view of Lake Michigan. BLD • $-$$$ 14710 NORTHWOOD HWY., ARCADIA,

231.889.3001

Birch & Maple Scratch cuisine prepared with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients. Friendly folks and fab craft cocktails. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 727 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT,

231.399.0399

Taco 'Bout It Mexican Fusion Tavo and Tarrah Hernandez turned their food truck into a restaurant dream-cometrue with ultra-fresh tacos on hand-pressed corn tortillas, aguas frescas and tamarind mules. LD • BAR • $-$$ 344 RIVER ST, MANISTEE, 231.887.4441

Timbers Restaurant Family-owned restaurant with steaks, prime-rib pasta , whitefish, craft beer, regional wines gourmet pizza, specialty salads. LD • BAR • $-$$ 5535 M-115, CADILLAC, 231.775.6751, FRANKFORT/ELBERTA

T.J.’s Pub Take a step down from the sloped sidewalk for panini, mex and pizza below the stately Ramsdell Inn. LD •

Blue Fish Kitchen & Bar New American cuisine, traditional fare, vegetarian and vegan. LD • BAR $-$$$ 312 RIVER

BAR • $ 99 RIVER ST., MANISTEE, 231.398.9174

ZIE BLVD., BEULAH, 231.383.4499

ST., MANISTEE. 231.887.4188

The Manitou Whitefish, perch, duck with cherry sauce, ribs, steaks, seafood. Nine miles north of Frankfort on M-22. D • BAR • $$-$$$ 4349 NORTH SCENIC HWY., HONOR,

Bungalow Inn This former rustic cabin offers steak, ribs and fish-fry specials, perch. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1100 28TH ST.,

MANISTEE/ARCADIA/ONEKAMA

231.882.4761

Papa J’s Pizzeria & Diner Sparkling diner serving homemade dishes and fine pizza pie. Weekend buffets and everyday pizza lunch buffet. BLD • $ 10583 MAIN ST., HONOR, 231.325.7070

Platte River Inn Classic dining in a casual atmosphere.

Steaks, Italian, Mexican. BLD • BAR • $-$$ 10921 MAIN ST., HONOR, 231.227.1200

The Roadhouse Fresh Mex with a cool cantina atmosphere. LD • BAR • $-$$ 1058 MICHIGAN AVE., (US 31), BENZO-

NIA, 231.882.9631

Raven BBQ plates, burgers, soon-to-be-famous poutine, house-brewed craft beer. LD • BAR • $-$$ 119 S. MITCHELL ST.,

MANISTEE, 231.723.8000

The Cabbage Shed Suds, and superb eats like seared scallops, rack of lamb and Ritz-crusted walleye. D •

Villa Marine Friday fish special. Saturday prime rib. American cooking. LD • $-$$ 228 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.5450, Yellow Dog Café Fabulous coffee, sandwiches, baked goods. LD • $ 4850 MAIN ST, ONEKAMA, 231.508.5008

$-$$ 198 FRANKFORT AVE., ELBERTA, 231.352.9843

Conundrum Cafe Light lunch fare, Hawaiian shave ice and alcohol available to purchase. BL • $-$$ 603 FRANKFORT AVE, ELBERTA, 231.352.8150

Crescent Bakery Artisanal breads, pies, cheesecakes, and hand- decorated cookies. BL • $ 404 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4611

Dinghy’s Local favorite for 25 years with house-smoked meats including famous ribs, half-pound burger, Big BLT, Mexican and kids menus. Award-winning Friday fish fry. LD

FIND MORE NORTHERN MICHIGAN RESTAURANTS! Go to MyNorth.com/Restaurants

• BAR • $$ 415 MAIN ST., FRANKFORT, 231.352.4702

CADILLAC, 231.444.6396

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN '20

79

Now In Stores Buy To Go. Take Home.

Drink Safe.

• OPEN 7 DAYS FOR LUNCH & DINNER •

STAY CALM & CARRY ON • COVERED & HEATED OUTDOOR PATIO & BAR • Thank• you to everyone who LIVE ENTERTAINMENT • has supported the Filling Station Family • FAMILY FRIENDLY • and our new Share a Slice Program!

TheFillingStationMicrobrewery.com 642 Railroad Place, Traverse City OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOR LUNCH & DINNER (231) 946-8168

CALL 231-946-8168 or 231-633-7274 to place a curbside order!

TheFillingStationMicrobrewery.com 642 Railroad Place, Traverse City MI

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SIP INTO SUMMER

new releases | drinks

Savor these six new Old Mission Peninsula wine releases.

BY TIM TEBEAU | PHOTO BY DAVE WEIDNER

Nature’s unpredictable pivots have forced Old Mission Peninsula growers and winemakers to stay nimble during the last two harvests when late springs and cold, wet autumns have curtailed crop yields and ripening cycles. In spite of the challenges however, cold climate varieties like riesling and pinot blanc have produced wines with aromatic energy and bright acid structure that give them longevity in the cellar and versatility on the dinner table. What’s more, red and white bottlings from the optimally ripe and abundant 2016 and 2017 vintages have had extra time to integrate in barrel and bottle and these late releases represent some of the best wines the region has ever produced.

Wine, we find, is the best tonic for all of the disruption in the world, so head up Center Road with an empty trunk, an open mind and a thirst for better days ahead to stock up on these hot new releases and help support Old Mission Peninsula’s world-class wineries.

BLACK STAR FARMS | 2017 ARCTUROS GRÜNER VELTLINER, LONE SILO VINEYARD Near-perfect maturation on the vine and extended lees contact yielded a rich and sophisticated grüner veltliner loaded with apple, pear and white pepper.

BONOBO WINERY | 2019 ROSÉ Winemaker Cornell Olivier whole-cluster pressed and co-fermented eight different varieties to produce this bone-dry rosé that flashes notes of apple blossom, raspberry, guava and honeysuckle.

BOWERS HARBOR | 2018 RIESLING, BLOCK II Bowers’ driest incarnation of Northern Michigan’s cornerstone variety, the Block II Riesling has bright linear acidity with white peach and tart grapefruit pith.

BRYS ESTATE | 2018 PINOT BLANC RESERVE Pear and golden apple abound in this reserve bottling of pinot blanc that balances freshness and mid-palate texture.

CHATEAU GRAND TRAVERSE | 2017 GAMAY NOIR We should all be drinking more gamay. CGT deftly harnesses the grape’s red cherry and black pepper essence in a fresh, mediumbodied red that pairs with almost anything.

MARI VINEYARDS | 2016 PROSERPINA Mari continues to reinvent the North’s potential for red wine production. In the new Proserpina, merlot’s propensity toward black cherry and anise gets boosted by fine tannins and briary dark berry fruit from a 25 percent dose of teroldego.

Traverse food and drinks editor, Tim Tebeau, writes from Petoskey. dining@traversemagazine.com. // Dave Weidner is a freelance photographer based in Traverse City. dweidnerphoto@gmail.com.

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN '20

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outdoors | fishing

GEAR TIPS Anglers looking to target this toothsome aggressor should carry a stout stick.

Fly rods in the seven to eight weight range are recommended. Employ intermediate to full sink fly line to get presentations deep and a wire leader to prevent a monster from gnashing through your line (it’s happened to yours truly). Pike are particularly keyed in on patrolling ambush sites, hunkering down in weed edges, sunken logs and stumps and rocky drop-offs that create a pinch point or shelf. Hone in on these areas and like all streamer fishing, cover lots of water.

Fly selection should focus on flashy with a large silhouette. Like your dad’s Daredevil spoons, red with white is a killer color combo. Chartreuse, yellow, black and even purple can also be productive depending on conditions. This handful of patterns should get you into some trouble: Lefty’s Deceiver, Pike Buster, Fishtail Whistler, Pike Bunny, Clouser Minnow.

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fishing | outdoors

In Pursuit of Pike The UP's tiny town of Curtis is all about fishing.

Especially when it comes to northern pike.

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY ANDREW VANDRIE

North of the Mighty Mac and sandwiched between the expansive Manistique Lakes is Curtis, Michigan. Main Street runs through the town straight and unhurried, flanked by earnest shops and cottages. There’s a post office, gas station, hardware store and an old-timey ice cream parlor, but not a single traffic light. There are several modest churches, but we’re headed to another locale of devotion—Mick’s Bait Shop. The walls teem with an array of jigs, plugs, spoons, crankbaits and crawler harnesses. All of it fine-tuned and time-tested to be deadly on the water just out the back door.

Manistique and South Manistique lakes are reminiscent of inland seas with more than 15,000 combined acres of water. Lurking within these fathoms are everything from bass to bluegill and even the leviathan muskellunge. Most anglers troll these waters in pursuit of the gold standard of freshwater table fare, the relatively boneless and delicious walleye.

While all respectable fish in their own right, there’s another species worth pursuing.

The Manistiques are home to legions of northern pike. Aggressive, explosive and with potential to surpass 40 inches in length, these predators make for excellent sport fish. Tack on a slightly inflated pike population (particularly in South Manistique Lake) and a trip to Curtis is a prime opportunity to hook into a northern on a fly rod.

Buoyed upon the big lake under a midday glare, probing the Manistique for pike can feel like a poor man’s flats fishing. I stand in the bow of our rickety skiff—a 14-foot aluminum boat—and cast. I double-haul on the forward cast, the rod loads up and then doles out the payload like a boxer’s haymaker uncoiling. The blood-red and shock-white of the fly flutter in the top surf, and then slowly sink. I count to three Mississippi and then strip in line with three even strokes and pause. I go to make the next strip and the line goes taut. I reel the rod skyward and simultaneously strip-set the line. The rod pulsates with the thrashings of an enraged northern pike. The 20-inch fish is brought to hand; it’s well shy of any wall-mount fantasies. But regardless of size, the sensation of such a strike on a fly has an addictive quality. The wind has pushed our craft over a new portion of gravel shoal. Territory yet to be perturbed by an 8-inch pike fly. I stand up and strip some line off the reel …

Andrew VanDrie writes from Traverse City. vandrieand@gmail.com

Traverse, Northern Michigan’s Magazine |

JUN ’20

83

love of the land

Breezy Mountain Biking Hone your skills on the Vasa Pathway.

BY ALLISON JARRELL | PHOTO BY GARY HOWE

No matter how badly you’re yearning to glide through a forest of fresh leaves baking in the warm summer sun, the thought of dodging obstacles and weaving between tree trunks at a high velocity can be intimidating for a beginning biker. For riders looking to expand their skills at their own pace, the new Vasa Skillz Building Loop, which opened to the public last fall on the 40-acre Vasa Pathway parcel, features two one-mile, single-track loops that include jumps, table tops, berms and rock gardens—all designed to help riders advance their mountain biking abilities. Created specifically with beginner mountain bikers in mind, some of the more technical sections of the trail even offer an option to ride around them (until you’re ready to take on the challenge!).

Trailhead: 4450 Bartlett Rd., Williamsburg Directions: US-31 to Bunker Hill Road, right on Bartlett, left into the trailhead parking area. The trail is marked with wayfinding signs.

For more information, visit

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TRAVERSETRAILS.ORG/TRAILS/VASA-SKILLZ-LOOP.

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