Fah Thai Magazine Nov-Dec 2023

SUSTAINABLE SAMUI Read more

CHIANG DAO MOUNTAIN HIGHS

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

NOV-DEC 2023

THAILAND’S UNESCO BUCKET LIST

AFLOAT ON CLOUD OCEANS

MESSAGE FROM THE PRESIDENT

OVERTURES 12 HERE AND NOW

Check out what’s new and hot throughout Bangkok Airways’ destinations – from sporting events to art scenes and cultural epics.

14 MIST-ERY MOUNTAINS

You might think seas of mist can only be found in Northern Thailand, but this isn’t always true.

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18 A TASTE OF ‘PASTE’

22 ROYALLY PURPLE

20 BANANA BITES

24 REAWAKENING BANGKOK

Chef Bongkoch “Bee” Satongun of Michelin-starred Paste Bangkok is reinventing Thai cuisine to create next-level flavours.

Unbelievably tasty for something so tiny, the Lady Finger or Kluay Khai is delicious whether fresh or transformed into various Thai desserts.

Petite, purple and handmade, Chor Muang was a royal snack back in the reign of King Rama II – but now everyone can enjoy a bite!

Lights guide visitors on a tour through time as streets and canals are illuminated for the 6th ‘Awakening Bangkok’ festival.

A Little-Known Gem: Doi Luang Chiang Dao

FEATURES 26 SAMUI AND PHANGAN EXCLUSIVE

To enter island paradise, check in at Explorar Koh Phangan, go natural at the Tamarind Springs spa, and savour The Palms Island Bar & Grill and Talay Restaurant.

34 WE LOVE KOH SAMUI

Read how the locals and entrepreneurs of Koh Samui and Phangan are cultivating sustainable stays on the holiday islands.

54 REACHING FOR THE STARS ON CHIANG DAO

Writer Ron Emmons enjoys peak experiences of nature on a trek to the summit of Doi Chiang Dao in Chiang Mai.

62 THAILAND’S UNESCO TREASURES

Natural beauty and historic civilisations are revealed in a guide to the kingdom’s growing list of heritage sites.

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HAPPENINGS

CORPORATE

Check out hip hangouts in Thailand and its neighbours.

72 SAMUI 74 PHUKET 76 BANGKOK 77 CHIANG MAI / CHON BURI / TRAT

79 HONG KONG/ SINGAPORE 81 PHNOM PENH / LUANG PRABANG

84 BANGKOK AIRWAYS NEWS 89 ROUTE MAP

CHECKING OUT 90 FLOATING TIME

Thousands of Khom Loys take to the sky over Chiang Mai — making the Yi Peng festival a transcendent experience.

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Thailand’s World Heritage Wonders

This month’s cover: Green and Sustainable Samui Cover image: Courtesy of Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui

Amidst a panoramic dreamscape that overlooks the pristine Crystal Bay, The Cliff warmly invites you to a truly unforgettable dining experience.

Mediterranean Cuisine: Asia

Luxury Scenic Setting: South East Asia

Most Romantic Atmosphere: Thailand

WORLD LU X U R Y R E S TA U R A N T AWA R D S WINNER 2018

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Most Romantic Atmosphere: South East Asia

WORLD LU X U R Y R E S TA U R A N T AWA R D S WINNER 2019

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WORLD LU X U R Y R E S TA U R A N T AWA R D S WINNER 2020

WORLD LU X U R Y R E S TA U R A N T AWA R D S WINNER 2022

2011

2014 2013

2014

2015

2017

2018

2019

HAPA 2011 - 2022 Most Exquisite Dining Experience

"Thailand's Best Restaurants" 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2017, 2018 & 2019

Most Trendy Casual Dining

Top Choice Award 2016

Top Choice Award 2017

2015

2016

2017

2018

2019

2020

Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 & 2020

Restaurant Of The Year

Reservations Essential reservations@brmunns.com | www.thecliffsamui.com | +66 (0) 77 448 508 Open Monday - Sunday 12:00 pm - 12:00 am

BANGKOK AIRWAYS PUBLIC COMPANY LIMITED

99 Mu 14, Vibhavadi Rangsit Road, Chom Phon, Chatuchak, Bangkok 10900, Thailand www.bangkokair.com

MANAGEMENT General Manager Daruni Klaprapchon Account & Administration Manager Supavadee Salyajivin Digital Marketing Manager Nichapat Noraphaiphipaksa Media Sales & Services Pangchanak Pangviphas

Kornnika Thongmorn

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Amornrat Kongsawat Vice President – Sales Komkrit Ngamwongwirot Director - Key Account and Ancillary Product Thanut Na Nakon Chanachon Manager - Ancillary Product Tanchanok Aunmueang Officer - Ancillary Product

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EDITORIAL

Email: editorial@fahthaimag.com

BEST USE OF PHOTOGRAPHY

BEST PHOTOGRAPHY

Editor-in-Chief Anutra Ungsuprasert Sub Editor Ramona Varma Deputy Editor Sarita Urupongsa Contributors Ariya Chaiyarit Jeremie Schatz Kankanit Wichiantanon Phoowadon Duangmee Richard Augustin Ron Emmons Sirin P. Wongpanit Contributing Photographers Atripical Ron Emmons Samatcha Apaisuwan Sirin P. Wongpanit

ART

Creative Director JyeShen Koo Art Director Pongtorn Khaoplag

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“FAH THAI” is the in-flight magazine of Bangkok Airways Public Company Limited and is edited and published by MPMI Group Co., Ltd. All articles and photographs published herein are created by the authors and photographers at their own discretion and do not necessarily represent the views of the airline. Bangkok Airways holds no responsibility or liability arising out of the publication of such articles and photographs.

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ESSENTIAL NOTES TO GUIDE YOUR TRAVELS

Stunning Point of View The Skywalk Aiyerweng in Thailand’s southernmost point of Betong, Yala, offers stunning views from all angles.

The glass floor reaches over the precipice at 621 metres above sea level, bringing visitors a magical view of the Hala-Bala Forest and Malaysian territory over a sea of clouds.

NEWS & EVENTS 12 / THAILAND TREASURES 14 / A TASTE OF THAILAND 18 / FRUITFUL FINDS 20 / JUST DESSERT 22 / ARTS & CULTURAL MATTERS 24 / CHECKED IN 26

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OVERTURES NEWS AND EVENTS

18 -31 NOV 2023

DEC 2023

SINGAPORE

DISNEY: FULL IMMERSION

Singapore opens a portal to the Disney universe in November. In its Southeast Asian debut, Walt Disney Animation Studios offers 360-degree immersion via state-of-the-art responsive projectors that bring to life the settings and characters of iconic scenes in over 40 Disney films.

From singing with Elsa in “Frozen” to riding a magic carpet with “Alladin”, the Disney Animation Immersive Experience allows visitors to become part of the story. Custom-designed interactive exhibits will also offer a behind-the-scenes peek into how Walt Disney Animation Studios brings movies to the screen. Sands Theatre, Marina Bay Sands; baseentertainment.com.sg

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NOV 2023

BANGKOK

40 YEARS A SONGSMITH

UK singer-songwriter Morrissey brings his “40 Years of Morrissey” world tour to Asia with gigs in Singapore, Hong Kong, Bangkok, and Japan on November 9, 16, 18, and 28, respectively.

The former Smiths frontman, whose legendary pop odes include “There Is a Light That Never Goes Out”, “This Charming Man”, and “How Soon Is Now?”, is scheduled to take the stage at Samyan Mitrtown Hall in Bangkok at 8pm on Saturday, November 18, to mark four decades in showbiz.

The Smiths burst onto the UK music scene with their self-titled album in the early 1980s, since when Morrissey has been the driving force behind almost 30 albums. Tickets for Morrissey’s Bangkok show start from 2,000 baht at www.thaiticketmajor.com.

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NOV 2023

VIENTIANE

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Photos: Live Nation Tero

Photos: Disney Animation Immersive Experience

SACRED TIME IN LAOS

The three-day festival of Boun Pha That Luang is the highlight of Vientiane’s religious calendar. Held in the week of the full moon of the 12th lunar month (November), the festival begins with a candlelight procession around the wax pavilion at Wat Simuang.

The following day, worshippers in ethnic costumes parade through the streets to the great stupa of Pha That Luang, where they make offerings of flowers, candles, and incense. The festival continues at dawn the next day with almsgiving, before locals gather to a play a hockey-like game called Ti Khee in the afternoon. The event comes to an end with a candlelight procession around Pha That Luang. The age-old sacred festival also features a feast of street food and fun for visitors.

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DEC 2023

BANGKOK

READ, LOOK AND CO-CREATE!

THAILAND

LOY KRATHONG FESTIVAL

9-17

DEC 2023

Perhaps Thailand’s most iconic and photogenic festival, Loy Krathong is a time for people of all ages to come together and symbolically float away their troubles.

The word “loy” means to float while “Krathong” refers to the small containers or baskets decorated with banana leaves, flowers, incense sticks and candles.

A national event in Thailand, the celebrations are sometimes referred to as the “festival of lights”.

One of the most popular places to celebrate is Sukhothai, believed to be the birthplace of the festival. “Sukhothai Loy Krathong and Candle Festival 2023” will be held on November 18-27 with a light & sound show at Wat Mahathat in the World Heritage Sukhothai Historical Park.

Visitors will be transported back to the Glory of Sukhothai Kingdom, as over 400 professional performers evoke the old kingdom’s birth with a spectacular elephantwar re-enactment as well as a Sukhothaistyle candlelight and firework show. Book your ticket at www.thaiticketmajor.com.

HONG KONG

THE GREAT HARBOUR RUN

Photos: Bangkok Art Book Fair

A sporting event with a difference, the Hong Kong Streetathon returns for fun-filled action in the heart of the city. Organised by RunOurCity in December, the event will feature an inaugural round-harbour full marathon, cross-harbour half marathon, and brand-new 10km route.

Fringe events include a Runners Expo and Runners Party for participants and visitors. The Streetathon will give keen athletes and funrunners alike a chance to tackle the TseungKwan O-Lam Tin Tunnel route for the first time. And they can grab delicious local snacks served at support stations along the way.

This year’s Hong Kong Streetathon is also teaming up with various NGOs to help raise funds and awareness to advance the 17 United Nations Sustainable Development Goals.

Causeway Bay; streetathon.com

Photos: Kerry Properties

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NOV 2023

The Bangkok Art Book Fair (BKKABF) held by Studio 150 and partners has been connecting the worlds of book publishing and the arts since 2016. In the sixth edition, themed “Homegrown Community”, it celebrates local voices and cross-cultural connections.

The book fair is about more than just reading, with art and design, movie screenings, food vendors, music, and forums on art, publishing, and politics offering something for everyone.

The fair comprises two spheres: SHOWCASE, a space for independent publishers and artists working in publishing; and PLAYGROUND, offering opportunities for students and anyone else who loves books and art to show off. bangkokartbookfair.info

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OVERTURES THAILAND TREASURES

Sailing the Seas of Mist There’s no better way to start your day than witnessing the sun rise over mountains immersed in a cloud ocean

Top Sunrise and misty mountains in Phu Chi Fa in Chiang Rai Bottom Right Skywalk Aiyerweng in Betong, Yala is the longest observational deck in Asia surrounded by clouds, fog and mist

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As the sun embraces the horizon in the early morning, its light journeys through a denser atmosphere, scattering blue wavelengths and painting the sky with serene red hues.

The simple act of witnessing the sunrise can bring feelings of happiness and contribute to better sleep, thanks to the serotonin boost from its warming rays.

However, for a peak solar experience, nothing beats watching the morning sun emerge above a sea of mist.

The golden glow on cloud-wreathed valleys creates a sight so magical and inspiring that it draws photographers from all around the world. Lovers, meanwhile, may simply sigh in wonder as they reflect on their deep bond of affection.

Whatever your mood, witnessing the misty landscape of orange-red hues is an incredibly soul-soothing way to start your day.

Here are the top six beauty spots in Thailand – both North and South –

where you can experience this spectacular play of Earth, cloud and sun.

SKYWALK AIYERWENG, YALA Perched 621 metres above sea level on a peak in Thailand’s southernmost district of Betong, the Skywalk Aiyerweng extends an impressive 63 metres into the abyss. Take the stairs up to this steel-framed observation for an exhilarating experience and a mesmerising view of the sun rising over the morning sea of mist. An elevator offers alternative access for visitors, including wheelchair users.

The highlight is the walkway that stretches out over the precipice. As if the stunning sunrise and mountain views were not enough, the glass floor at the walkway’s end adds an adrenaline-pumping view of the world beneath. Skywalk Aiyerweng delivers an epic sunrise over the sea of mist all year round, making it an unforgettable experience for all who venture here.

KIEW MAE PAN, CHIANG MAI Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s tallest mountain, enchants visitors with the heavenly spectacle of the dawning sun gracefully emerging above a mist-clad valley and towering peaks. This sunrise viewpoint is part of the Kiew Mae Pan natural trail, a short and circular trek spanning 3 kilometres. With guiding done by the warm-hearted Hmong people, this trail is an attraction in its own right, offering visitors a journey through 21 stations, each revealing an exquisite panoramic vista and natural beauty. The highlight awaits at Station 9, where a platform offers awe-inspiring mountain views. Early risers and avid sun-gazers gather here between 6 and 7am to bask in the golden hour and witness day break over Thailand’s highest mountain.

GUNUNG SILIPAT, YALA Hidden in the pristine wilderness of Yala’s Betong District, the Gunung Silipat Viewpoint is a well-kept secret.

For a memorable day trip, start with a thrilling 4WD ride for 3 kilometres before embarking on a 2-kilometre trek through durian orchards, farmland, and lush rainforest. Seeking a more immersive experience? Spend the night at basecamp before hiking for 40 minutes uphill to the pinnacle of Gunung Silipat. Despite its humble elevation of 607 metres above sea level, Gunung Silipat – Malay for “triangular rock mountain” – offers surprisingly dramatic panoramic views. As the clock approaches 6am, you’ll find yourself standing above an ethereal sea of clouds, witnessing the sun’s gradual ascent transform the landscape while painting the sky above Thailand’s southernmost district a mesmerising array of colours.

KHAO KHAI NUI, PHANG NGA Phang Nga is celebrated for its pristine tropical beaches on the Andaman Sea, yet a hidden gem lies just 20km north of Thai Mueang Beach. The Khao Khai Nui Viewpoint sits above a mountain

Clockwise from Top Left Kiew Mae Pan Nature at Doi Inthanon, Chiang Mai Beautiful sea of mist at sunrise over Gunung Silipat peaks in Yala province Wake up to the break of dawn and the sea of mist at Gunung Silipat, Betong in Yala province Khao Khai Nui view point in Phang Nga

valley blanketed by thick morning mist year-round. From the viewpoint, layers of mountain ranges emerge as dark silhouettes against the mist’s canvas, bathed in the soft morning light. Cloud dances gracefully over the tropical forest, gently caressed by the wind, as Phang Nga unveils its natural beauty. To reach the viewpoint, begin your adventure in the village of Baan Thung Ma Phrao with an exhilarating 4WD ride to the summit.

Khao Khai Nui Viewpoint provides sweeping vistas of the Andaman Sea with the bonus of stunning sunsets and mesmerising stargazing. To soak up the atmosphere, consider renting a basic cabin from the hospitable locals. This way, you can wake up to million-dollar views and also indulge in the distinctive local activities, including peaceful mangrove boating, adventurous coastal foraging, and tranquil walks through tropical grasslands.

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OVERTURES THAILAND TREASURES

DOI ANG KHANG, CHIANG MAI Hunkered among imposing mountains to the north of Chiang Mai, Doi Ang Khang valley is home to the Palong, Rahu, Tai, Akha, and Hor ethnic communities. With such rich ethnic diversity, the area has a storied history. Doi Ang Khang used to be cloaked with endless opium fields, until the transformative Royal Project was launched in 1969. The initiative replaced opium cultivation with flowers, fruits, vegetables, and tourism as new sources of income for the locals. Doi Ang Khang then quickly emerged as one of Thailand’s top winter destinations.

Travellers are drawn to this hill station for its breathtaking mountain vistas,

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vibrant hilltribe culture and, of course, the misty mountain sunrise. The Kiew Lom Viewpoint provides the perfect vantage point. Wrapped in history and folklore, Doi Ang Khang also offers visitors jaw-dropping views of the day being born amid a mountain cloudscape.

Clockwise from Top Left Doi Ang Khang in Chiang Mai is one of Thailand’s top winter destinations

PHU CHI FA, CHIANG RAI Phu Chi Fa, located in the northern province of Chiang Rai, is among the most remarkable spots in Thailand to witness mountains clad in oceans of mist.

Ascending this peak on the Laos border before dawn is an experience that will last long in the memory. Perched on the

Sunrise, morning fog and the mountain in Phu Chi Fa, Chiang Rai

Misty sunrise cloaks a tea plantation in Doi Ang Khang

clifftop, this location offers an exotic panoramic view as the morning sun bathes the high mountain ranges of Laos in glorious red hues. Sunrise at Phu Chi Fa is a bustling affair, drawing visitors even during midweek mornings. Landscape photographers and solitude-seekers may venture off the beaten path to discover serene spots like a sheer vertical cliff silhouetted against the rising sun and the mist-shrouded valley. If the epic sunrise at Phu Chi Fa leaves you yearning for more natural wonders, head 40km north to Doi Pha Tang for a breathtaking sunset over the Mekong River as it winds its way through the Lao mountain valleys.

OVERTURES

WORDS SARITA URUPONGSA

A TASTE OF THAILAND

The Time Traveller of Thai Cuisine

Chef Bongkoch “Bee” Satongun of PASTE Bangkok reveals how her love of slower-paced tradition inspired her Michelin-starred reinvention of Thai cuisine

When asked how she was first introduced to the world of food, Bongkoch Satongun or “Chef Bee”, recounts childhood memories of helping her mother, the owner of a food stall that sold Thai favourites like Khanom Jeen (curry noodles) and assorted curries.

She remembers the fragrance of herbs being pounded in a mortar, and the richness of grated coconut used to make milk – the essential ingredients of sumptuous Thai curries.

She grew up in a slower and more traditional Bangkok, before the hustle, bustle and bright neon lights that dominate the city today.

People would put laborious efforts into making just one simple dish. That’s how Chef Bee first fell in love with food – by experiencing the wondrous flavours each herb or spice can bring to a dish when treated in the right way.

She met her future husband and co-creative Jason Bailey when she was just starting in the F&B industry. An experienced chef back home in Australia, Bailey trained her in the serious business and skills of being a chef and together the couple began to explore the complexities of Thai flavours.

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Left Fermented noodles with fresh curry, king crab, Som saa zest & ginger. Taking inspiration from the Mae Khrua Hua Pa cookbook of Lady Plien Pasakornwong (1908), these noodles freshly made with Suphan Buri’s famous organic rice explode with the flavours of Som saa or bitter orange and ginger Right Refined and elegant is a perfect combination at Paste Bangkok

Clockwise from Top Gindara (Black Cod) with palm sugar, fish sauce & soy sauce Paste @Gaysorn Live lobster salad, rose apple, crisp hooker chives & Thai samphires. The distinctive sweetness and plump texture of Chanthaburi’s rose apples combine with the king of crustaceans and piquant sauce to conjure bright notes and umami flavours.

Chef Bongkoch “Bee” Satongun Jungle beef cheek curry, clear jungle curry with braised beef cheek & roasted eshallots Paste Bangkok retains their one MICHELIN star for 6 consecutive years

They discovered that creating perfect Thai dishes was not just about achieving a great taste. The secret was finding the perfect balance between herbs, spices, umami-rich sauces and ingredients.

Their collaborative creations break with Thai dining traditions, though. Instead, they revitalise Thai flavours to tickle the tastebuds of contemporary diners, local and foreign alike.

Bee takes original recipes and then meticulously tests and refines each dish while exploring ways to reinvent them. She sees this as a form of creative rebellion that is helping to spice up the world of Thai cuisine.

In 2013, Bee and Bailey opened Paste in Bangkok at the height of the city’s independent-restaurant boom.

A pioneer of modern Thai food, Paste scooped up a Michelin star in the first Thai edition of the guide (2018). In the same year, Bee was named Best Female Chef in Asia 2018 by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

The recipe for success is drawn from archives and antique cookbooks that Bee mines from old Thai family recipes. She and Bailey then get to work

transforming the classics in their unique innovative style.

The couple also travels across Thailand to unearth forgotten cooking techniques and native ingredients that lie buried in the heritage of Thailand’s indigenous communities.

For Bee, the Nan River Alley is a particularly rich culinary source, filled not only with lush forests and fertile soil but also wild ingredients that have nurtured locals for centuries.

She likes to immerse herself in the forest’s secrets, absorbing the deep wisdom of local experts. They teach her how to offset and balance the herbs and aromatics against one other.

The fruit of these expeditions are dishes that blend local organic produce to create the exquisite balance of flavours that has earned Chef Bee fame all around the world.

PASTE BANGKOK Open daily from noon-3.30pm, 6-11pm; 3rd Floor, Gaysorn Village 999, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok; +66 (0) 2656 1003, www.pastebangkok.com

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OVERTURES FRUITFUL FINDS

Unwrapping Thailand’s Boutique Banana

Tiny Lady Fingers pack the sweetest punch – along with health-giving benefits

The flesh boasts a rich, creamy texture and gorgeously sweet flavour, earning them the nickname “sugar bananas”.

A treat when eaten fresh, Lady Fingers are also transformed into various delectable desserts by soaking them in syrup (kluay chueam), coconut milk (kluay buad chee), frying into crispy coconut banana rolls (khao mao thod), turning them into chips, candy, cake, bread, and cookies, and even adding them to fried roti.

The unripe fruit is also used in savoury dishes like chicken curry.

Though Lady Finger bananas are available all year-round, they take centre stage during the 10th lunar month festival known as Sart Duean Sib, celebrated in southern Thailand in

September or October.

The annual festival to honour ancestors sees monks offered “krayasart” – a sticky sweet made of rice, nuts, sesame seeds, sugar and coconut milk – which is traditionally paired with Lady Finger bananas for an exquisite flavour.

These petite bananas are also overflowing with potassium, fibre, vitamins and minerals, and beta carotene, which helps protect against free radicals, lowering the risk of cancer and heart disease. Surprisingly, despite being known as “sugar bananas”, they are relatively low in sugar.

So, consider adding these delectable yellow gems to your next shopping list, and savour the sweet, healthy benefits they bring.

WORDS ARIYA CHAIYARIT

PHOTO & STYLE SAMATCHA APAISUWAN

Thailand’s Lady Finger bananas may be small in size, but they pack a powerful sweet punch that not only delights tastebuds but also promotes good health.

Think of bananas and what usually pops into our heads are the big Cavendish bananas, or “kluay hom” as they are called in Thai.

However, there are actually over 1,000 banana varieties found across the world, and almost half of them are inedible.

In Thailand, the most popular bananas are Cavendish, Pisang Awak or “kluay namwa”, and Lady Finger or “kluay khai” – the sweetest of them all.

These tiny, elegant bananas have a thin, bright yellow skin and come shaped like a fat cigar stretching 3 to 5 inches long.

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OVERTURES JUST DESSERT

Meet the Queen of Thai Snacks Delicately handcrafted Chor Muang, or steamed flower dumplings, are considered the crème de la crème of traditional Thai snacks. However, don’t be deceived by their sweet and enchanting appearance.

Known to previous generations as a sugary confection, Chor Muang now leans more to the savoury side and usually comes stuffed with a delectable mix of salty peanut or pork paste.

The snack can be traced back to the reign of King Rama II (1809-1824) when it appeared in the famous poem “Karp Hey Chom Khrueang Khao Waan” or the Serenade of Snacks and Sweets.

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A hallmark of royal cuisine is the meticulous craftsmanship that graces each dish, and Chor Muang is no exception. It boasts a delicate, flower-shaped form that melts in the mouth to release surprisingly delicious flavours. This sensual artistry is what gives Chor Muang its prominent place among Thai culinary treasures.

To make Chor Muang, begin by stirfrying minced pork with the classic trio of Thai ingredients: coriander root, garlic, and pepper. Then season the mix with sugar, light soy sauce and salt. The dough should possess enough elasticity to shape Chor Muang’s signature flower petals. To achieve this, mix half a cup of rice flour with a

tablespoon each of glutinous rice flour and tapioca flour, then knead it with butterfly pea water to create a delicate shade of violet. To shape the petals, use small tongs – or the special Chor Muang tweezers if you can find some – and place the filling in the flower. Then steam them over boiling water and brush with garlic oil. Serve the finished dumplings with lettuce, fresh coriander and fresh chillies.

This delightful snack is difficult to find as it takes hours to make and cannot be stored for long. Try your luck at upmarket Thai dessert outlets like Chada Tea Boutique on the first floor of CentralWorld mall in Bangkok (facebook.com/chadateaboutique).

WORDS SARITA URUPONGSA

The exquisitely formed Chor Muang melts in the mouth to deliver majestic flavours

OVERTURES ARTS & CULTURAL MATTERS

Lighting Up Bangkok’s Birthplace Bangkok’s night-time festival of lights returns to illuminate the historic streets of Phra Nakhon and the famed flower market in November

Awakening Bangkok is back for its 6th edition, inviting visitors down a “Time Passage” to the bygone bustle of the city’s oldest streets and canals. Light installations will guide the way on a tour of Bangkok’s birth and growth since it first emerged 250 years ago as Rattanakosin. Visitors will discover how past, present and future meld in the city’s buzzing heart.

The iconic light festival is sure to reveal forgotten stories that linger in every corner of the centuries-old Phra Nakhon district. Awakening Bangkok is scheduled for the last week of November, when cool breezes offer more comfortable conditions to stroll around. November 24-December 3; Phra Nakhon, Bangkok

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DESIGNING CHIANG MAI Chiang Mai Design Week showcases the

atmosphere for art. The aim is to

northern city’s world-famous reputation

strengthen Chiang Mai’s reputation as

for creative flair in everything from

Thailand’s city of creativity where cultural

clothes to cafés.

roots are preserved and nurtured in new

The event’s ninth annual edition will

and interesting forms. December 2-10;

feature exhibitions, workshops, forums and

Chang Moi and Tha Phae subdistrict,

performances to explore ideas and channel

Chiang Mai; www.chiangmaidesignweek.com

design experiences catered to children, youth, communities and businesses.

Designers, artists and creatives will gather together to swap ideas and collaborate under the theme “Transforming Local”, offering a window on the Chiang Mai of tomorrow.

This year’s Design Week focuses on sustainability and creating a favourable

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OVERTURES CHECKED IN

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TwinofSisters

Island Bliss WORDS ANUTRA UNGSUPRASERT & KANKANIT WICHIANTANON

It’s that time of year when everybody craves a holiday to spoil themselves. Whether a soul-searching adventure, letting your hair down, or relishing pristine nature and delectable cuisine, Koh Samui and Koh Phangan tick all the boxes as dream destinations

Photo: Tamarind Springs Forest Spa

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OVERTURES CHECKED IN: SAMUI

Stepping into the lush, green realm of untouched nature, my aching body begins calling out for a strong but gentle pair of hands to soothe stressed muscles and send me to a new level of relaxation.

Once a tamarind orchard, Tamarind Springs Forest Spa is hidden on a forested hillside amid giant granite boulders, creating a serene and unique ambiance.

The harmonious blend of nature and therapy is the brainchild of the spa’s German architect and co-founder, Detlef Dirksen.

Guests can select from a wide range of programmes based on their preferences and time available. The treatments utilise traditional Eastern and advanced Western methods, ranging from head massage, foot reflexology, facials and massages – classic oil, Thai yoga, Prakop, hot and cold stone – to manual lymphatic drainage.

We chose the four-hour “Beyond Therapy” treatment, beginning with a classic oil massage, followed by a Tibetan singing bowl session, and facial treatment with manual lymphatic drainage.

Clockwise from Top Left Unwind near one of the three rock pools hidden within giant rock formations The Tamarind Springs Forest Spa is known for its two herbal steam caves – Mattri and Kandana Green and granite are the two tones of Tamarind Springs Forest Spa Classic Thai Prokop massage melts away your tension Sound therapy with Tibetan singing bowls sends vibrations through the body to wipe away the pain and bring physical, emotional and mental well-being Refreshing tamarind and ginger drink for every guest

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We are guided along natural stone steps to one of the many open-air salas, where a therapist and her treatment tools await. The massage begins with the Swedish kneading technique, soft yet strong enough to beckon total relaxation as a light jasmine scent fills the air.

As my muscles melt under the skilled therapist’s rhythmic strokes, my ears are caressed by the chatter of birds, and my mind drifts to serenity and peace.

Out of the blue, I hear a resonating hum from the Tibetan singing bowl placed below my waist. The sound grows gradually louder, reverberating in waves through my body.

I sink even deeper into bliss when the therapist delicately shifts to the facial massage and manual lymphatic drainage.

As her fingers caress my cheeks, the sound of the singing bowl comes back to my ears, but lighter, like a voice carried on the breeze. These touches bring a strange feeling of warmth, like being held close in a mother’s embrace.

I end my day in the spa’s herbal steam room, a natural rock cave. Splash! A plunge into the rock pool in front of the cave reawakens my senses and makes my day!

Tamarind Springs Forest Spa 265/1 Thong Takian, Moo 4, Tambon Maret, Koh Samui, Surat Thani +66 (0) 85 926 4626, +66 (0) 98 963 6449 www.tamarindsprings.com/en

PHOTOS: TAMARIND SPRINGS FOREST SPA

TRIED: TAMARIND SPRINGS FOREST SPA

TASTED: THE PALMS ISLAND BAR & GRILL (LAMAI)

by live rhythms from local DJs and performers to keep your tummy happy and spirits high.

Food-wise, avid brunchers will relish the sight of Salmon Benedict laced with luscious hollandaise sauce, Coconut Ocean Smoothie Bowl, Fluffy Pancakes showered with tangy mango compote, and Chilli Crisp Egg on Toast. For heartier and more savoury options, we recommend the Grilled Jumbo Prawn Skewer, Chicken Khao Soi, Pineapple Fried Rice, and Grilled BBQ Pork Ribs glazed with sweet and sticky sauce, served with our absolute favourite, Pommes Anna with a perfectly crispy crust and soft insides. Fish-lover?

Try the majestic King Salmon, a pan-seared fillet with honey-ginger soy sauce served on a bed of umami-packed cilantro-lime rice and beans. Delicious.

The Palms Island Bar & Grill Samui (Lamai) 124/50-52 Moo 3 Maret, Koh Samui, Surat Thani, +66 (0) 84 112 6010 www.thepalmslamai.com

Clockwise from Top Left It’s cocktail time when night falls at The Palms Island Bar & Grill The Grilled Jumbo Prawn Skewer is served with fries and signature sauce A bowl of The Palms’ rich and flavourful Chicken Khao Soi Chef Kwang Apinya and Chef Micaela Markides at the helm of The Palms Perfectly grilled BBQ Pork Ribs glazed with sweet and sticky sauce The much-loved Pineapple Fried Rice

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PHOTOS: THE PALMS ISLAND BAR & GRILL SAMUI (LAMAI)

A slice of the Caribbean in Samui, The Palms Island Bar & Grill Samui is situated in the heart of Lamai and comes with a boatload of scrumptious fare, tasty tipples, and great vibes.

The all-day dining restaurant offers a smorgasbord of options to satisfy every craving. Whether you’re an avid bruncher, luncher, or partygoer whose appetite only comes alive at sunset, you can count on The Palms as a haven of delicious flavours.

The menu here evokes endless summer, featuring international classics with spicy and zesty spins. The setting of stylishly draped tropical wallpapers, rattan decor, and wooden furniture exudes a feel-good, Caribbeanmeets-Bali vibe. Our advice is to stop by for breakfast or lunch if you want to unwind in the calm before the nightlife storm.

But arrive a little later if you want to experience The Palms’ upbeat side. After dark the eatery transforms into a neon-lit space, inviting diners to enjoy a repertoire of drool-inducing dishes accompanied

OVERTURES

TASTED: TALAY RESTAURANT

Clockwise from Above Talay Restaurant’s signature cocktails – The Oriental, and the sunset colours of Peaches & Dream A delicious trio of grilled seafood, Pineapple Baked Rice and Tom Yum Goong Chef Sumittra ‘Whan’ Jirapreyanipat Succulent Lobster with Garlic Butter & Butter Garlic Sauce A flavourful plate of Phad Thai Goong Talay Restaurant’s chilled nighttime ambience Feast on Thai and Western cuisine by the sea

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Lively Chaweng Beach has a new heavenly hangout for boat-fresh seafood and spectacular ocean views. Talay Restaurant offers Thai and Western fare all day on a chic and breezy open-air terrace at Baan Chaweng Beach Resort & Spa. Here, the white curves and teakwood pillars overlook the pool and beach just a few steps away – a perfect appetiser for the feast to come.

To get you in the holiday mood, the menu offers signature cocktails like The Oriental and Peaches & Dream with sunset yellow and pink hues. But the real culinary star is the Seafood Set: super-fresh, tender grilled tiger prawns, squid and mussels complemented with a selection of the restaurant’s unique sauces. Made with organic Thai herbs from the hotel garden, Koh Samui coconut sugar, and other local ingredients, the sauces are what make this banquet extra special. The set also features deliciously zesty Tom Yum Goong soup of tiger

prawns as well as pineapple-baked rice with aromas of turmeric, cinnamon and star anise.

“The secret is in the freshness of the seafood as we only choose ingredients from small boats’ catch of the day,” says Chef Sumittra “Whan” Jirapreyanipat, whose new menu is a bold take on classic Thai and Western dishes.

“We don’t add any seasoning to the grilled seafood at all. The ‘trick’ is its freshness,” she adds.

Our favourites here include Lobster Garlic Butter & Butter Garlic Sauce, refreshing Tuna Salad, juicy Grilled Salmon served with Italian dressing, Spaghetti in Prawn Fat Sauce, and the unmissably authentic Tiger Prawn Phad Thai. Prefer a fantastically fresh Fish & Chips? Chef Whan deep-fries yellowstripe scad with khanom kheemod (southern sweets made of ground, roasted coconut) for a scrumptious blend of local and international flavours.

Showcasing creative cuisine as well as community-conscious practices supporting the local fishers and farmers, Talay Restaurant serves in-house and walk-in guests from 7am to 10.30pm.

As well as chilling out at sunset with a cocktail overlooking the beach or enjoying a fabulous dinner under the stars, you can expect a fire show every Tuesday and live music on the beach every Saturday. Enjoy!

Talay Restaurant at Baan Chaweng Beach Resort & Spa 90/1 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach Road, Tambon Bo Phut, Koh Samui, Surat Thani +66 (0) 77 300 564 to 66 www.baanchawengbeachresort.com

PHOTOS: BAAN CHAWENG BEACH RESORT & SPA

CHECKED IN: SAMUI

OVERTURES CHECKED IN: PHANGAN

For many, the top reason to visit Koh Phangan is the neon-dancing Full Moon Party, but that’s about to change. If you’re like us – semi-introverts whose idea of a good party is a cosy stay, cordial service, and small, intimate revels – then Explorar Koh Phangan should be your choice.

Our first visit to this adult-only resort, anchored by the zen-calm Haad Rin Nai Beach, exceeded our expectations of the hotel service typically found on this party-loving island. Apart from the genuinely warm hospitality, Explorar Koh Phangan instantly captivated us with its garden-hugging buildings that house over 72 elegant minimalist rooms, suites, and villas. We checked into the Deluxe Sea View, a spacious seafront nest in yellow and blue décor to match the view, along with a sizeable outdoor bathtub and an ultra-comfy bed.

Feeling hunger pangs, we strolled over to the Odyssey, an all-day dining restaurant situated by the pool bar serving delectable global classics with a focus on Thai and

Clockwise from Top Soaking in the sun as guests warm up for the Full Moon Party Ultra comfy beds, soft linen and fluffy pillows for deep sleep after a night of wild partying Begin the day with a cool glass of virgin cucumber gimlet Chef Jerome’s Gravelax of King Mackerel with beetroot to wrap up a day of revelry on Koh Phangan Enjoy the otherworldly vista of the sun setting over Koh Phangan Lush gardens surround the resort’s path ways

Mediterranean cuisine. Unmissable bites here include the Seared Sea Bass Fillet served with chunky caponata, Massaman Nuea (southern beef and potato curry), Bone Marrow Con Carne, and Tropical Plant Burger.

When night falls, the venue transforms into an intimate dining spot under the stars where French Chef Jerome Henry weaves his magic backed by melodious tunes from talented Grammy nominated musician, Qura.

For wellness devotees and activity enthusiasts, Explorar serves up a feast of activities and spa treatments to upgrade your beach vacation. Take a refreshing plunge into the Beach Ice Bath with in-house yoga instructor Sophie Flügel

to boost circulation and speed up muscle recovery. Or switch from your regular spa treatment to Light Therapy, where the dancing lights become your therapist.

For those eager to attend the Full Moon Party, there’s no need to wait until night-time to go wild. The resort offers a head start with the Explorar Signature Pool Party, which takes place every afternoon before the full moon revelry.

The laidback daytime lunacy comes courtesy of a live DJ, poolside fare, and expertly crafted drinks – all accompanied by bubbling bliss from the foam machine.

Explorar Koh Phangan 117/21 Rin Nai Beach, Ban Tai, Koh Phangan, Surat Thani +66 (0) 77 951 567 www.explorarhotels.com/koh-phangan

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PHOTOS: EXPLORAR KOH PHANGAN

STAYED: EXPLORAR KOH PHANGAN

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SUSTAINABLE SAMUI

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An

Insider’s Guide to Words Kankanit Wichiantanon Photos Anutra Ungsuprasert

Green Samui Sustainability isn’t just a passing trend on this island paradise – it’s a way of life

Photo: Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui

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SUSTAINABLE SAMUI

Clockwise from Top Right The open-air Samui Airport is the first in Thailand to earn the Carbon Footprint label from TGO The airport was once a coconut plantation A beautifully designed central pillar supports the high roof Label-less bottles of drinking water served on all Bangkok Airways flights The airport blends beautifully with its natural surroundings The airport’s open design keeps it cool with no need for air-conditioning

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S

amui boasts a multitude of celebrated attributes.

Thailand’s second-largest island gleams like a precious gem, attracting globetrotters in search of azure seas, sugar-white sands, and fun festivities.

However, there’s another facet of Samui that’s sparkling everbrighter these days – its commitment to sustainability. The island has emerged as a sanctuary for businesses dedicated to eco-friendly practices, demonstrating that ecotourism can flourish while embracing both luxury and sustainability.

Leading the way is Bangkok Airways, which has placed sustainability at the core of operations with a goal to achieve carbon neutrality by 2050.

The boutique airline’s push is exemplified in the low-carbon architecture of the three airports it owns and manages in Samui,

Sukhothai, and Trat.

“Sustainable tourism forms a part of the [UN’s] Sustainable Development Goals or SDGs, which means we must promote sustainability across all aspects of the tourism ecosystem – economic, social, and environmental,” said Puttipong Prasarttong-Osoth, President of Bangkok Airways Public Co., Ltd. “Our sustainable effort began with the construction of Samui Airport in Surat Thani province.

The founder of Bangkok Airways, Dr. Prasert Prasarttong-Osoth, recognised the pristine beauty of the sun, sand, and sea of Koh Samui

“What was once a coconut plantation is now an open-air airport that neither requires nor depends on an air conditioning system and uses very few natural resources in its operations and maintenance.”

and so his goal was to build an airport that seamlessly integrates with existing nature. What was once a coconut plantation is now an open-air airport that neither requires nor depends on an air conditioning system and uses very few natural resources in its operations and maintenance.”

In addition to its open-air pavilions designed with energysaving strategies, Bangkok Airways is dedicated to environmental responsibility through its Waste Segregation for Wonderful Benefits Project. It involves the meticulous sorting of recyclable and food waste to be transformed into valuable materials and nutrientrich compost. In recognition of these efforts, Samui Airport became the first in Thailand to earn the Carbon Footprint label from the Thailand Greenhouse Gas Management Organisation (TGO)

BAAN BOOM BOXES

in both 2016 and 2017 while also receiving numerous awards for its environmentally friendly missions.

Away from airline territories, Samui residents and frequent visitors like ourselves know for a fact sustainability isn’t just a passing trend in this island community: it’s the very essence of life. Local heroes are preserving ancestral traditions of green living and pioneering innovative methods to transform island waste into wealth.

Here’s our list of local businesses we had the pleasure of visiting during our recent trip to Samui, each of which has invaluable lessons to offer eco-conscious travellers seeking ways to travel extraordinarily and sustainably.

From landfill to tranquil forest retreat, the tale of Baan Boom Boxes and its remarkable transformation into an eco-friendly resort is the definition of a “blessing in disguise”.

Unbeknownst to owner Prapan Suanleng, the very land on which the resort stands was a landfill with trash buried under the surface.

Facing this challenge, he decided to take matters into his own hands.

“We live with trash, so we need to think about how we can live best with it,” said Prapan.

Surrounding a lush garden, you’ll discover accommodation fashioned from repurposed shipping containers. But the real stars are Prapan’s homemade bricks crafted from recycled objects like plastic and glass bottles. All power needs, including air-conditioning, come solely from solar panels dotted throughout the premises. Resident chickens provide eggs for resort meals, while a kitchen garden occupies the heart of the resort and scattered throughout are fruit trees and beehives for honey.

Clockwise from Top Left The entire resort and its swimming pool are powered by solar energy

Prapan, together with E2C, a green social enterprise led

by Panipol Apichitsakul and eco-conscious Samui locals, are committed to promoting sustainability across the island and beyond. Their ongoing initiatives educate communities on solar energy and how to create bricks and walls from recyclables. To dive deeper into this inspiring enterprise, visit their website at: www.facebook. com/e2csamui.

Address: 28, 45 moo 1, Mae Nam, Koh Samui, Surat Thani, +66 (0) 94 582 9297 www.facebook.com/baanboomboxes

Glass bottles gathered from around the island are broken into small chips This broken glass is then added to cement bricks The lush resort powered purely by clean energy was once a landfill Prapan Suanleng and Panipol Apichitsakul — an eco-conscious duo who are continuing to work hard on making Samui green Solar panels around Baan Boom Boxes provide electricity and warm showers

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SUSTAINABLE SAMUI

Clockwise from Top Manee Auiprasert is passionate about Samui’s local herbs Manee and her community work together to bring the charms of Samui to the world The workshop to teach visitors how to make herbal compresses or Luk Prakob Demonstrating how local coconut was grated in the old days Manee’s signature Miang Kham and rose tea are served on the Miang Mai Tree tour

HONEY ROSE HERB GARDEN & ART Those fortunate enough to meet Manee Auiprasert and visit Honey Rose Herb Garden & Art to sample her herbal products, as we did, will discover an inspiring haven of local sustainability.

Manee uses her unique talent to create wellness and personal care products rooted in timehonoured, all-natural Thai traditions while opening visitors’ eyes to various aspects of sustainability: environmental, wellness, and cultural.

Clockwise from Top Samui Tie-dye Shop

by Yuphaphorn Wanitcharoen

SAMUI NATURAL TIE-DYE WORKSHOP AT MEEWAYA HOTEL Within her lush gardens you’ll find a vibrant array of medicinal plants and flowers. These natural treasures are transformed into a wide range of herbal products, including essential oils, shower gel, shampoo, herbal balm, traditional Thai herbal compresses (known as Luk Prakob), and massage oils.

Manee offers a Thai Herbal Compress Workshop for those intrigued by the world of Thai aromatherapy. And for food enthusiasts, we highly recommend the Miang Mai Tree Tour where you’ll get to sample Manee’s signature Miang Kham snacks and rose tea while exploring her garden.

Address: Moo 2, Ang Thong, Koh Samui, Surat Thani, +66 (0) 81 649 6061 www.facebook.com/ Honeyroseherbgarden

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Tie-dye patterns on a t-shirt created from an old plastic basket

Fancy trying your hand at sustainable fashion design?

Yuphaphorn Wanitcharoen will show you how. Plunge into the world of eco-friendly dyes and head to Meewaya Hotel, where Yuphaphorn will be your colourful guide.

Her three-hour workshop reveals the secret art of extracting colourful pigments from local plants and mastering fabric folding techniques to create cool tie-dye patterns.

Participants get a snack break to sample local treats, before it’s off to the beach to wash your dyed creations in azure seawater.

Clockwise from Top Samui Health Shop

by Lamphu is a paradise for all ecoconscious people

Chemical-free tie-dye made of natural pigments is soaked in the seawater to ensure the colour is fixed

The shop offers products ranging from food and skincare to supplements and eco-friendly accessories for daily use

Below The art of tie-dye at Meewaya Hotel using mangosteen peels and neem bark

From start to finish, the process is 100% chemical-free, relying only on the natural colours provided by plant ingredients like mangosteen peel and neem bark.

Moreover, while you’re waiting for your dyes to set, Yuphaphorn often invites students on beach clean-up missions. So, you won’t just leave with a beautiful fabric but also the satisfaction of contributing to the island’s beauty.

Address: 9/41 Moo 2, Koh Samui, Surat Thani, +66 (0) 95 423 9236 or +66 (0) 99 451 9215 www.facebook.com/p/MeewayaHotel-100065032811865

Fresh grains without packaging can be found here

SAMUI HEALTH SHOP BY LAMPHU Health, community, and sustainability are the cornerstones of Samui Health Shop, a venture driven by its owner, Benjaphon Iamvatcharin.

This welcoming space offers a bounty of wholesome products, ranging from nourishing foods to organic skincare and supplements.

Dedicated to showcasing Thailand-based green brands, the shop has become an island sanctuary of natural, organic, sustainable, and ethically produced goods, all crafted right here in Thailand. It’s a powerful reminder that sustainable producers can only thrive with the support of eco-conscious consumers like ourselves.

The shop also offers a refill station to stock up on everything from lentils to personal care and cleaning products. Bring your own containers and bags or opt for the shop’s reusable packaging options. Fresh and local ingredients sourced from Samui farmers

Refill station for natural skincare and household cleaning products

can also be found here. But if cooking isn’t your thing, then leave it to Samui Health Shop’s very own café, located just across the street. There, you can savour nutrient-rich dishes and beverages to complete your sustainable shopping experience.

Address: 130, 39 M.4, Maret, Koh Samui, Surat Thani, +66 (0) 96 634 8752 www.samuihealthshop.com 39

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SUSTAINABLE SAMUI COCONUT MUSEUM Coconut lovers can go coco-loco at the Coconut Museum. Managed by a local Samui family with over a century of experience in the coconut industry, this establishment serves as a one-stop destination to explore the rich history and heritage of coconuts in Koh Samui.

Now overseen by the third generation, the museum offers educational tours and workshops for visitors craving culturalculinary experiences.

Clockwise from Left Coconut being prepared for the extraction of coconut oil The Coconut Museum Kitchen where culturalculinary experiences are showcased Ornaments made from coconut shells displayed in the museum The museum maintains a corner of its premises as a tribute to the simplicity of times gone by

Those with a sweet tooth will appreciate the Thai dessert-making workshop, where they can learn how to make traditional coconutbased sweets over a coconut-shell charcoal fire. Guests can also take a guided tour of the property to witness coconut cultivation, dehusking, and virgin coconut oil production to learn more about this

liquid gold. Follow up with a delicious feast of coconutty dishes at Baan Suan Langsat restaurant (see below), located just a coconut’s throw away.

Address: 56/5 Moo 2, Ang Thong, Koh Samui, Surat Thani, +66 (0) 89 744 8335 www.facebook.com/ SpacoVirginCoconutOil

BAAN SUAN LANGSARD Hidden in a lush langsat orchard, Baan Suan Langsard by Kanitha Saelim opens a window on Samui’s rich culinary heritage.

Garden-to-plate cooking is an essential part of the local dining culture and is showcased here in a menu filled with island classics, all prepared using pesticide-free produce sourced from Kanitha’s own garden, local farmers and fishermen.

Kanitha’s original mission was to conserve her family’s langsat orchard, but she also began growing her own vegetables for everyday cooking. Word of mouth spread, visitors began flocking to try her delectable dishes, and Baan Suan Langsard was born. Part-orchard and part-restaurant, this place now welcomes discerning diners from all around the world.

Our favourites here include StirFried Stink Beans with Prawns, Phad Mee Samui (Samui-style stir-fried noodles), Steamed Egg in Coconut, Southern Crabmeat Curry, and Fish Entrails Soup with Fermented Herbal Rice Noodles.

Address: 69/12, Ang Thong, Koh Samui, Surat Thani, +66 (0) 99 051 4099 www.facebook.com/BaanSaunLangSard

Clockwise from Left Kanitha Saelim puts her heart and soul into recreating original Samui recipies

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A plate of melt-in-themouth butterfly pea sago and slices of fresh coconut served in coconut milk

Samui-style stir-fried noodles and other delicacies

SUSTAINABLE SAMUI

Samui’s Visionary

Eco-Tourism Leaders Photo: Garrya Tongsai Bay Samui

SERENE, SUSTAINABLE SPLENDOUR

Cape Fahn Hotel

Cape Fahn Hotel, located on the private island of Koh Fahn just off Samui, offers a unique blend of splendour, seclusion, serenity and sustainability.

As a Green Hotel Award recipient and participant in the UNESCO Sustainable Travel Pledge, the hotel is dedicated to eco-friendly initiatives to reduce its carbon footprint.

These include a vibrant herb garden, sustainable packaging, minimising food waste, energy-saving keycards, rigorous recycling, harnessing rainwater, and technology to purify wastewater for the gardens.

Cape Fahn Hotel provides nesting materials to ensure native birds have sustainable habitats and only serves linecaught fish for sustainable fishing. They also prioritise local employment to help the local economy. www.capefahnhotel.com

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Ten havens of sustainability are changing the face of island life by prioritising green practices in their hospitality operations

IN PURSUIT OF PERFECTION

Garrya Tongsai Bay Samui

More than just a fleeting trend, sustainability is ingrained in the way of life at Garrya Tongsai Bay Samui. The resort was built to minimise disruption to nature, all under the watchful eye of its founder, Akorn Hoontrakul. Today, his son and daughter-in-law, Thanakorn and Saisiri Hoontrakul, keep that mission thriving through their green projects.

These cover plant protection, tree planting, reduced chemical usage, a ban on single-use plastics, zero-waste kitchen, organic garden, responsible water management, and the specialised role of Sustainability Manager. The resort now boasts over 170 varieties of trees and over 80 species of birds.

The restaurant, EVOL, champions sustainable dining, with 40% of produce sourced from local farmers and 20% grown on the premises.

Garrya also supports the Dog and Cat Rescue Samui Foundation – a “paw”fect sustainability leader! www.garrya.com/en

SUSTAINABLE SAMUI GREEN AT THE CORE

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort

SIXTH SENSE OF SUSTAINABILITY

Six Senses Samui

Silavadee Pool Spa Resort is marking its 15th anniversary with “New Chapters of Luxury – S.E.A”, representing sustainability, experience and activity.

Eco-luxury for this resort is not just a dream, but a reality it is committed to achieving. The venue’s three new core values act as a guiding compass, both for the guests and dedicated staff, in fostering responsible travel. Their operational efforts include implementing a keycard-controlled system to minimise energy consumption in the rooms, prioritising water conservation, rigorous waste recycling and reduction practices, and embracing green chemistry products to eliminate toxic cleaning agents.

On a boozier note, Silavadee invites guests to savour the experience of their Signature Sustainable Cocktails, which take a farm-to-glass approach and minimise waste. Just like the cooking, the bar highlights the use of locally sourced, sustainable, and seasonally grown herbs and fruits from Samui, ensuring that your enjoyment aligns with their commitment to a greener future. www.silavadeeresort.com

Green vacations become a reality at Six Senses Samui, thanks to sustainability initiatives including plastic-reduction campaigns, waste-management endeavours, sustainable farming practices and precision air conditioning (PAC) systems.

The 67 elegant villas of this seafront tropical paradise are kept cool and comfortable with energy-efficient PAC systems, which adjust cooling according to the surrounding temperature, resulting in big energy savings.

The “Farm on the Hill” boasts an edible garden, chicken coops, and goat shelters to sustain the venue with fresh produce but also minimise its carbon footprint. Six Senses Samui’s plasticreduction policy extends to staff, suppliers and guests. Plastic straws are replaced with lemongrass straws handcrafted in-house.

While glass water bottles are served in all guestrooms, stainless steel water bottles are on hand for staff to quench their thirst stylishly and sustainably, refilling them with still or sparking mineral water from the on-site reverse osmosis plant. Suppliers of Six Senses Samui are also joining in the mission to reduce the use of single-use plastics to make the island a more eco-conscious and responsible destination. www.sixsenses.com/en/resorts/samui

COMBATING PLASTICS

Baan Chaweng Beach Resort & Spa The Baan Chaweng Beach Resort & Spa offers breath-taking views and serene ambience, all the while championing eco-friendly practices.

Recognising the impact of plastic pollution on the island’s seas and ecosystems, the resort’s plasticcombating campaign raises awareness among staff, promotes eco-friendly alternatives, supports recycling initiatives, and participates in clean-up efforts.

Sustainability extends to culinary offerings, with Baan Chaweng proudly showcasing authentic flavours of Koh

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Samui. They prioritise ingredients sourced from local farmers and fishermen who follow sustainable practices. The resort also features artisanal products crafted by island communities to strengthen the local economy.

With the well-being of Samui people a key concern, Baan Chaweng commits to providing local employment opportunities. This way, they not only ensure stable incomes but also contribute to the island’s economic growth. www.baanchawengbeachresort.com

SUSTAINABLE SAMUI FROM SHELLS TO SPIRITS

Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui SUSTAINABLE STYLINGS

Phensiri

In the true spirit of the hotel brand, Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui maintains sustainability with elegance and charm via its unique eco-initiatives. These include the “Coconut Journey that Contributes to the Community”, ecoSPIRITS, Coral Conservation, and more.

Samui generates huge amounts of coconut waste, most of which ends up in landfills. However, in a move to transform waste into a valuable resource, the resort partners with Samui Municipality’s Public Health and Environment Division and local communities to collect discarded coconut shells. These shells are then shredded and blended with food waste and kitchen scraps to make compost. This natural fertiliser is then used on the resort’s farm and gardens and by local farmers to boost their harvests.

The resort also gives new meaning to responsible drinking by partnering with ecoSPIRITS, whose SmartPour system for refilling premium spirits reduces single-use packaging.

Through its Coral Conservation Project, the Four Seasons team and Department of Marine and Coastal Resources have led to the successful reintroduction of more than 16,000 coral fragments into the Gulf of Thailand and remains dedicated to educating guests about coral reef restoration through engaging sessions led by an in-house marine biologist. www.fourseasons.com/kohsamui

Phensiri, a beloved Southern Thai restaurant on Samui, is dedicated to embracing a truly local ethos in its operations. Led by Chef Santi “Aor” Wongsawat, Phensiri not only celebrates the rich tapestry of traditional Southern cuisine but also weaves sustainability into the island’s culinary heritage.

The menu blends time-honoured classics and lesser-known gems, all expertly crafted from hyperlocal and seasonal ingredients. Their commitment to sourcing fresh produce exclusively from Samui and seafood only from small-scale fisheries both reduces their carbon footprint and safeguards marine ecosystems.

The kitchen follows a nose-to-tail philosophy to minimise waste.

This practice is evident in their signature fish dishes, which are often served whole, and their dedication to preservation methods such as sun-drying and lacto-fermentation. Even the food scraps are donated to local pig farms or turned into organic fertiliser.

The restaurant’s commitment to supporting the island’s farmers and fishermen as well as employing locals contributes to the island’s economy and creates a sustainable dining experience. And with energy conservation in mind, their dining room is powered by solar energy, while the restaurant offers both air-conditioned rooms and alfresco dining. www.phensiri.com/en/home

SUN, SEA AND SAFETY

Explorar Koh Samui This adults-only resort isn’t only dedicated to providing enjoyment for grown-ups, it also contributes to the development of local youth. The resort collaborates with the Rotary Club Samui-Phangan on Swim4Life, a water safety programme that teaches local children to swim and thereby prevents drownings.

Explorar’s commitment to

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sustainability also extends to beach clean-ups conducted in partnership with the Trash Hero organisation and local communities. The aim is to keep Samui’s coastline pristine and free from plastic waste.

Measures to minimise plastic usage are also implemented throughout the premises. www.explorarhotels.com/koh-samui

SUSTAINABLE SAMUI WILD AND HEAVENLY

Wild Cottages Luxury & Natural Resort and Wild Cottages Elephant Sanctuary Resort With two idyllic locations on Samui Island, Wild Cottages Luxury & Natural Resort in Lamai and Wild Cottages Elephant Sanctuary Resort in Bophut, this brand places the utmost importance on nature preservation and protection.

Founded by the dynamic husband-wife duo, Simon and Melissa Chevalier Dubois, Wild Cottages offers an eco-luxury haven for conscientious travellers who seek both opulence and a commitment to making our world a greener place.

At Wild Cottages Luxury & Natural Resort, sustainable tourism takes centre stage through practices like organic and local sourcing, food-waste recycling, and the employment of locals.

The resort places strong emphasis on the use of organic, chemicalfree products, and its cottages nestled amid lush greenery proudly showcase handcrafted artworks created by local artisans to support the surrounding community, all to nurture a thriving local economy within Samui.

Meanwhile, the Wild Cottages Elephant Sanctuary Resort, in partnership with Samui Elephant Haven, transcends the traditional resort experience. Here, the property serves both as a playground for guests and a sanctuary for rescued elephants who get to roam freely around the vast grounds. Wild Cottages provides a secure and caring environment for these majestic creatures without any form of exploitation, and simultaneously allows guests to partake in a memorable ethical tourism experience. www.wild-cottages.com

TWICE AS NICE TAMARIND

Tamarind Springs Forest Spa

Tried and tested, this spa’s signature treatments like the Herbal Steam Caves, Thai Yoga Massage, and Twice as Nice Prakop deserve all the praise they have been receiving. However, what has received less attention is their sustainable approach to the surrounding landscape.

Located amid forest, enormous boulders, and a hidden rock cave, Tamarind Springs Forest Spa blends harmoniously with the natural environment.

“Nature, in its own way, is a form of art,” remarks co-owner and Samui native Khun Kulnisa Kullapaspawit. “Always cherish that and remember where you come from.” These statements elucidate how Tamarind’s setting and services

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were meticulously designed to seamlessly integrate with the gifts bestowed by Mother Nature since opening in 1998.

Supporting the local community is at the forefront of the forest spa’s ethos.

They utilise the island’s premium coconut oil, spa products, and seasonal produce for their Kulnisa Cafe & Gallery. This ensures that their service contributes to

the local economy while minimising their carbon footprint. Moreover, Tamarind converts food waste into compost for use in their gardens, and incorporates trash sorting and recycling as integral aspects of their sustainability efforts. Taking this commitment further, the spa also prohibits the use of toxic pesticides for mosquito and insect control. www.tamarindsprings.com/en

Phensiri

Sustainable Samui Luxury Thai Restaurant Phensiri restaurant by Chef Santi Wongsawat, a haven of southern Thai cuisine since 2012, is an unmissable experience for all visitors on Koh Samui.

Our true southern Thai flavours are created from the freshest, locally grown quality ingredients harvested ecologically on the island and nearby and served in a relaxed ambiance both inside and al fresco.

At Phensiri, we focus on sustainable Thai cuisine and Chef Santi’s garden-fresh ingredients for sustainability and seasonal eating.

Our distinctive menu of classic recipes and ageold traditional cooking methods utilises sustainable sources and seasonal ingredients, making our dishes stand out as unique and utterly authentic.

SAVOUR A TASTE OF SUSTAINABILITY

FRIED SHRIMP WITH CHILLI GARLIC

DEEP FRIED RED GROUPER FISH WITH FRESH GINGER TAMARIND SAUCE

GARFISH SPICY SALAD

COCONUT SOUP

+66 (0) 81 753 6767

www.phensiri.com

phensiri thai restaurant Koh samui 80/30 Moo 3, Suan Uthit Rd., Chaweng Beach, Bo Phut, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84320

SUSTAINABLE SAMUI

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CHIANG DAO HIKE

CONQUERING DOI LUANG Words & Photos Ron Emmons

CHIANG DAO The 16-km hike to the summit of ‘Star’ mountain and back is one of Thailand’s most memorable experiences

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CHIANG DAO HIKE

I

’m not the sort of person who climbs a mountain just because it’s there, but there were plenty of reasons why I longed to stand on top of Doi Luang Chiang Dao in North Thailand. Located just 70 kilometres north of Chiang Mai, it may be only the third-highest peak in Thailand at 2,225m (Doi Inthanon and Doi Pha Hom Pok are first and second), but it is certainly the kingdom’s most dramatic mountain. Its massive limestone bulk rises almost sheer from the rice paddies that surround it, and its slopes are so steep that it appears impossible to climb from many angles.

The Chiang Dao range, which comprises several peaks over 2,000m high arranged in the shape of a horseshoe, is home to many rare species of animals, birds and plants. Along with the great views and glimpses of nature’s rarities, I guessed the two-day trek (one day up, one down) would be good exercise as well as a welcome break from emails and work.

A friend, Mike, decided to join me so we arranged our permits, porter and guide and began early one misty morning in December.

We started walking from a rangers’ outpost about halfway up the mountain, which still left over a thousand metres of elevation to climb to the summit. We set off at a steady pace with Tam, our guide, stopping frequently to point out

Right The trail provides spectacular views of surrounding peaks Clockwise from Bottom Left The trail begins through towering pines Views are everchanging along the trail Part of the horseshoe-shaped Chiang Dao Range Opposite Page The view down from the top is dizzying

The trail was gentle at first, following the contour of a hillside and across a ridge, passing between towering pines which gave off an intoxicatingly fresh scent, and drawing us up into the valley ringed by majestic peaks.

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unusual wildflowers and distant birds. The trail was gentle at first, following the contour of a hillside and across a ridge, passing between towering pines which gave off an intoxicatingly fresh scent, and drawing us up into the valley ringed by majestic peaks.

Then gradually the track began to get steeper. I needed to be surefooted; in some places the drop-offs were so steep that one slip could be fatal, and my stamina was often tested by knee- or waist-high steps up jagged rocks.

Unusually for the time of year, the sky was overcast, which made the climb a bit more comfortable, but also dampened the drama of the peaks around us.

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CHIANG DAO HIKE

Clockwise from Top Arriving at the summit of Doi Luang Chiang Dao Chiang Dao sunset Enjoying the misty views from the summit of Doi Luang Chiang Dao

Though we didn’t see any of the rare birds we had been told to watch out for, such as the Giant Nuthatch and Hume’s Pheasant, many wildflowers were in bloom, ranging from sunflowers to delicate orchids. One tree found only in this region is the grandiosely named trachycarpus oreophilus, a fan palm which somehow grows on almost vertical slopes and otherwise barren ridges, giving the impression of hair bristles on the mountain’s head.

The Thai names of many wildflowers that Tam pointed out to us end with the suffix “chiang dao”, which means “star city” (“doi luang” means “great mountain”), and it seemed an odd coincidence that many of their blossoms also formed a star pattern.

The real challenge came after we had been walking for about four hours, as the path began to climb ever more steeply towards the top of Doi Luang, the highest peak in the range. My legs already felt like jelly and finding the effort to keep going was getting tougher every step of the way. However, by taking frequent breaks and pushing myself on, I finally made it to the rudimentary campsite about 200 metres below the summit, where Mike and our helpers grinned to see the pained look on my face.

After setting up camp and relaxing for a while, Tam suggested trekking to the summit for a panoramic view of the range. The horribly steep track was daunting, but this last half-hour climb revealed a host of different plants such as rhododendrons, as well as an endearing encounter with a small owl, unlike any creature I had ever

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seen before. Its camouflage was perfect, and without Tam’s sharp eyes, I would surely have missed this memorable sight. Tam also pointed out a long-tailed goral (a type of mountain goat) that was foraging on the precipitous slope of a nearby peak.

As we stepped on to the summit, the clouds that had blanketed the sky all day magically evaporated, and the breathtaking view of lofty pinnacles instantly made all the effort of getting there worthwhile. I rattled off shots with my camera in every direction as the sun slid towards the horizon, then all too quickly it was time to descend before dark.

The sense of achievement had me glowing, but the temperature quickly plummeted to around 5°C, and after a simple meal Mike and I bundled ourselves into our sleeping bags in the tent. When Tam called us at around 5am to go and watch the sunrise from an east-facing

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HERITAGE SITES

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Mapping Thailand’s s r e d n o Words: Sirin P. Wongpanit

W o c s e Un

Putting Thailand’s World Heritage Sites on your bucket list will add meaning and depth to your trip to this beautiful kingdom

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HERITAGE SITES

L

ike Sleeping Beauty, the story of UNESCO-listed destinations in Thailand started with a long slumber before suddenly springing into life.

After a long hibernation, we gathered not one, two or three, but no less than a dozen additions to our collection of World Heritage Sites and UNESCO cities. And thanks to that impressive run, we now have a map of Thailand’s finest natural and cultural treasures.

They form a wonderful bucket list for travellers seeking the roots of the modern kingdom we see around us today.

As well as seven World Heritage Sites, Thailand also boasts five cities recognised by UNESCO as cultural gems.

Phuket Town took the lead back in 2015 by earning the title of UNESCO City of Gastronomy.

Founded around 150 years ago, it became the youngest “old town” in the world to claim the badge of honour. Its winning recipe was Peranakan cuisine, spread along the Malay peninsula by Hokkien Chinese sailors and finessed over centuries to form the unique flavours of Phuket.

However, the City of Gastronomy accolade has injected new energy into the food scene of Thailand’s largest island.

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Clockwise from Top The sun rises over Doi Chiang Dao in Chiang Mai A path leads through vibrant green tropical forest in the Sakaerat Biosphere Reserve Laad Yai market in old town Phuket The main stupa at Wat Ratchaburana in Ayutthaya The stunning Pha Takian waterfall in Pang Sida National Park, part of Dong Phayayen-Khao Yai Forest Complex A Peranakan dish in Phuket

Old, almost forgotten Hokkien snacks, home-cooked dishes and beautiful Baba-Yaya costumes have returned as locals take fresh pride in their heritage. The island has quickly become the latest success story in UNESCO’s mission to preserve the best of world culture.

That mission began in the 1960s when the UNESCO World Heritage Convention was created to save the ancient Egyptian treasures of Nubia.

Nowadays, UNESCO recognition catapults a site, forest, geological wonder, or even traditional rite into the global spotlight while also bringing legal protections.

Meanwhile visitors benefit by receiving the full story, unveiling the hidden depths of a place or culture.

Thailand’s first UNESCO badge was awarded in 1977 in a bid to safeguard a biodiverse forest in Nakhon Ratchasima, 200km northeast of Bangkok. The Sakaerat Biosphere Reserve was established to protect over 500

species of wildlife – many of them endangered – that live in the mixed dry dipterocarp-evergreen forest just north of Khao Yai National Park. The mission was to protect the forest’s natural abundance while boosting awareness of its significance.

Now, 46 years later, the Sakaerat Biosphere is a conservation triumph, providing young children and other visitors with a place to explore, learn about and cherish Thailand’s natural heritage.

Offering guided tours all year round, this dynamic institution is busy boosting crucial awareness in times of planetary climate change.

But if your happy place is history, don’t miss the ancient capitals of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Or you could beat the crowds by heading to Si Thep Ancient City, which has been given UNESCO listing. Here, 200km northeast of Bangkok in Phetchabun

Bangkok Listed as a UNESCO Creative City of Design in 2019, Bangkok is a fabulous place to start your exploration. You can watch a Khon performance of traditional masked dance – UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity since 2018 – at Sala Chalermkrung. Then treat yourself to a traditional Thai massage, or Nuad Thai, which has been on the world list since 2019.

Those fascinated by the written history of Thailand should head to the National Museum and check out the Ram Khamhaeng Inscription. Pair it with a trip to Wat Pho to see the ancient epigraphs. Both are UNESCO Memories of the World.

Wat Arun or the Temple of Dawn towers over the Chao Phraya River Clockwise from Centre Left A ancient temple in Sukhothai Historic Park The Ram Khamhaeng inscription dating back to the Sukhothai period Traditional Thai massage was listed as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2019 Tiled chedis gleam in the sun at Wat Pho

province, prehistoric remnants showcase a prosperous community dating back as far as 1,700 years.

Visitors short on time are advised to begin their heritage hunt in Nakhon Ratchasima. This province in the Northeast became only the fourth in the world to receive the precious UNESCO “Triple Crown” this year.

It now boasts three UNESCO sites: the Sakaerat Biosphere Reserve, the Dong Phayayen-Khao Yai Complex World Heritage Site, and the Khorat Global Geopark.

No tour of Thailand’s heritage would be complete without the gems of intangible culture that adorn the global list.

Below is a route map of Thailand’s UNESCO wonders, so you can see and experience them all.

Khon masked dancing was listed as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2018

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HERITAGE SITES

Nakhon Ratchasima

Heading to the Northeast? Don’t miss the vast forested Dong Phayayen-Khao Yai Complex, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2005. Follow up by visiting the freshly listed Korat Global Geopark UNESCO Global Geopark (2023), and spend a wild night exploring Sakaerat UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Thailand’s first listed site (1977).

Top Left & Right Heaw Suwat and Heaw Narok waterfalls in Khao Yai National Park and Dong Phayayen-Khao Yai Complex A road winds to the top of the hill in Khao Yai National Park

On to History Routes Top Left An ancient brick wall at Wat Kudi Dao in Ayutthaya

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Ayutthaya and Sukhothai were both major kingdoms of their times. The magnificent remnants of Thailand’s old capitals have been UNESCO World Heritage Sites since 1991 and 1999 respectively. The Si Thep Ancient City in Phetchabun is even older but looks poised to be named Thailand’s latest UNESCO wonder by the World Heritage committee.

Bottom Left Wat Phra Si Sanphet and its three chedis form a magnificent landmark at Ayutthaya Historical Park

Bottom Right The main stupa at the Si Thep Historical Park in Phetchabun

Clockwise from Left Toddy palm trees grace Kaeng Krachan National Park An aerial view of the Kaeng Krachan reservoir in the national park A suspension bridge stretches across the Kaeng Krachan reservoir

Phetchaburi In 2021, Phetchaburi became Thailand’s second UNESCO City of Gastronomy. The province’s natural abundance and delicious local dishes are guaranteed to whet your appetite.

Meanwhile, the mountains of its Kaeng Krachan Forest Complex have been recognised as a natural treasure store since 2021.

Clockwise from Left A breath of fresh air on the peak of Doi Chiang Dao Shops in Chiang Mai selling local products such as hats, bags, baskets and accessories A woman paints beautiful handmade paper umbrellas in Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai Chiang Mai became a UNESCO Creative City of Crafts and Folk Art in 2017. Four years later, Doi Chiang Dao in the same province became Thailand’s second Biosphere Reserve as the only place in Thailand with sub-Alpine vegetation – a link to the Himalayas and southern parts of China.

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KNOW BEFORE YOU GO

Cheers to New Year’s

The iconic Victoria Harbour in Hong Kong is gearing up for one of the world’s biggest and most spectacular New Year celebrations.

Globetrotters and locals alike can expect jawdropping firework displays launched from harbour barges and city skyscrapers, along with an extravagant night parade, as Hong Kong counts down to 2024.

SAMUI 72 / PHUKET 74 / BANGKOK 76 / CHIANG MAI, CHON BURI & TRAT 77 / HONG KONG & SINGAPORE 79 / PHNOM PENH & LUANG PRABANG 81

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HAPPENINGS THAILAND SPOTLIGHT

From Italy With Love

of authentic delights is a love letter to Italian cuisine. So, if you’re looking for romantic vibes and traditional Mediterranean flavours, this is the place to be. Tel: +66 (0) 61 197 1080, www.facebook. com/GiuliettaeRomeoSamui

Photos: Phetch Buncha Stadium

Photos: The Shack Samui

Photos: Giulietta e Romeo

There’s an Italian restaurant for every occasion and Giulietta e Romeo has you covered for date nights. Low-lit with candles and vintage lamps, this trattoriastyle restaurant exudes romance and intimacy, while the menu

SOUL (AND BLUES) FOOD

Surf n turf rolls off the grill with a special rhythm at The Shack.

This blues-themed steakhouse in Bophut’s Fisherman’s Village serves a diverse menu of dishes starring imported top-grade Australian and Japanese beef, as well as ocean-fresh seafood.

Must-tries on the menu include Tomahawk Sharing Steak (Black Angus), All American Burger, The Shack “Special” Ribs, and The Ultimate Mixed Seafood Grill. Tel: +66 (0) 81 425 5710, theshackgrillsamui.com

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GET YOUR MUAY THAI KICKS

No trip to Samui is complete without witnessing traditional Thai kickboxers in action at Phetch Buncha Stadium. Thai and international fighters face off in the ring every Wednesday and Saturday. Known as the best boxing stadium in the South, this is one place where you can witness and appreciate this martial art up close.

Tel: +66 (0) 84 772 6739, www.facebook.com/Phetchbunchasamui

SAMUI

SHAKE THINGS UP

Photos: Samui Mixology

Learn the mysterious alchemy of cocktail-making at a special class held

by Samui Mixology on November 11.

The two-and-a-half-hour session costs 1,400 baht per person and is being held at the Fisherman’s Village. Pick the cocktails you want to master and deploy shaker, jigger and strainer to unlock your inner mixologist. All raw materials and equipment are included in the workshop. Tel: +66 (0) 90 903 0255, Facebook: Samui Mixology

RIDE THE WIND

Shucking Seaside Treasures If you’re obsessed with crustaceans, head to the Oyster Bar x Samui for an audience with the queen of shellfish. Diners here are constantly surprised by the ever-changing menu – think Boudeuse by David Herve, Josephine by Gillardeau, and Totten Inlet Oyster. Pro shuckers are on standby to ensure you have an “ex-shell-ent” experience. For oyster naysayers, the restaurant offers alternative scrumptious delights like Dover Sole basted in butter lemon sauce, Scallops with Grilled Sweet Corn Salad, and Baked Lobster Tails with Garlic and Butter. Tel: +66 (0) 89 660 1772, www.theoysterbarx.com

Photos: The Oyster Bar x Samui

Photos: Kiteboarding Asia Koh Samui

Kiteboarding offers an adrenaline rush to rival any sport, and the IKO-licensed Kiteboarding Asia (KBA) school will show you exactly how to do it. Newbies can opt for a one-hour lesson, six-hour beginners course or full 14-hour course to learn everything from riding techniques to understanding wind conditions from certified kiteboarders. They arm you with the fundamentals, along with insights that will quickly get you flying over the waves. Tel: +66 (0) 83 643 1627, www.kiteboardingasia.com/koh-samui

SPOTLIGHT

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HAPPENINGS THAILAND

SPOTLIGHT

Oasis of Flavours

Cloaked in lush plants and succulents both inside and out, Bix Café blends pleasing looks with a killer menu that should satisfy the most discerning diners.

The owners’ love of greenery extends to the adjoining greenhouse where cacti in a myriad different shapes, sizes and colours are displayed. This sprawling café has a unique, eccentric ambiance with funky, eye-catching décor and plenty of spots to cosy up in with your favourite beverage or snack.

63/26 Kathu district, Phuket; +66 (0) 99 310 6266

TROPICAL AND TRENDING

Since its birth in Bali nearly 20 years ago, 69SLAM has evolved into a modern lifestyle brand of activewear, swimwear and other apparel available in more than 35 countries.

Known for its youthful, provocative prints, the fashion brand has constantly evolved with uniquely witty and whimsical designs. 69SLAM’s formulafree tropical stylings with “play-loud” aesthetic can be found in five locations in Phuket and one in Krabi. www.69slam.com

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BJJ IN PARADISE

Brazilian jiu jitsu has come a long way since first hitting the mat in the 1920s. The martial art is now a world-famous selfdefence system of grappling, ground fighting and submission holds. And Phuket, a hotspot for martial arts training in Thailand, boasts one of the top Brazilian jiu-jitsu academies.

Temple Brazilian Jiu Jitsu in Nai Harn Beach offers fun, simple and supportive classes in state-of-the-art facilities for beginners, intermediates and advanced students alike.

The academy was founded and is run by Olavo Abreu, a 5thdegree black belt and a major name in the world of Brazilian jiu-jitsu. 14/106 Rawai, Mueang, Phuket; +66 (0) 83 521 8106

PHUKET

TAKE A SWING AT THIS

Want to play golf but don’t want to spend time working on your swing? Mini-golf may be for you. The newly refurbished Phuket Adventure Mini Golf now offers a cleverly designed course with palm trees, water features, bamboo and grey granite rocks. The 18-hole layout also has an open-air restaurant for hanging out with friends, family or co-workers before or after your round.

The course also caters to company functions, weddings, cocktail parties or charity fundraisers, to name a few. 63/26 Kathu District, Phuket; +66 (0) 99 310 6266

WATERFALL PLAYTIME

Phuket may be renowned for beaches, but it also boasts some of Thailand’s prettiest waterfalls.

The small but picturesque Kathu waterfall features three cascades that tumble into pools where visitors can paddle, swim, and cool off in the tropical heat.

Just north of Kathu neighbourhood, an unassuming street winds its way to the base of a mountain forest, where the waterfall emerges. Climb the steps to more pleasant cascades for great spots to picnic, cool off or plunge in.

ZAPP YOUR TASTEBUDS

Hoy Zapp serves up all the usual Thai favourites but is famous in Phuket and beyond for its Som Tam. This low-key popular eatery devotes a whole page of its menu to different versions of this fiery dish.

But once you have selected a delicious papaya salad, don’t miss out on the other delicacies on offer here. Recommended are Yum Thua Phlu (wing-bean salad), Moo Hong (stewed pork belly), and Suea Ronghai (tender grilled beef with spicy dipping sauce). The seafood is super fresh, and if you’re lucky, you may get a chance to tuck into fresh oysters.

Gentle melodies from a talented singer-guitarist add to the relaxed vibe.

133/18 Si Sunthon, Thalang, Phuket; +66 (0) 86 271 2680

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HAPPENINGS THAILAND

SPOTLIGHT

Sources of Sophistication

BANGKOK

The term “Vilas” in Thai holds a wealth of meaning, ranging from “originating in Europe or foreign lands” to “charm and beauty”. It perfectly encapsulates this upscale restaurant, where exotic ingredients and inventive cooking styles are combined to breathe new life into Thailand’s culinary scene.

Vilas is not dedicated to Thai cuisine, instead taking inspiration from

various gastronomy traditions to create exquisitely fresh combinations of flavours.

Exclusive ingredients from around Thailand and further afield are lovingly crafted into unforgettable tasting menus. Open TueSun 5.30pm-10pm; 2/F Mahanakhon Cube Building, 96 Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Rd, Silom; reservations at vilasbangkok.com

INDIE MUSIC FEST

Mark the date, indie music fans: Maho Rasop returns to Bangkok in December with an eclectic line-up of international headliners and local talent. Topping the weekend festival bill are British rockers Idles (Saturday) and New York post-punk outfit Interpol (Sunday). Live acts span a wide range of music from alternative to hip hop. This year Maho Rasop Festival is introducing iconic London-based online music broadcaster Plus Boiler Room to fuel the fun. Expect a weekend packed with music, art, food and unlimited festival atmosphere.

December 2-3; ESC Park, 26/328 Khlong Luang; www.mahorasop.com

GO WITH THE SLOW

Feeling stressed by the rush of urban life? Slowcombo, a community space tucked in Soi Chulalongkorn 50, could be the perfect antidote. Set up to fulfil city dwellers’ need for a physical and spiritual sanctuary, the space is divided into three happiness zones. Happy Meal serves delicious food with sustainable options and features Co-Café, where rookie entrepreneurs can learn about

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business without having to invest big money. Happy Mind boasts the Energy Space for peace seekers to heal mind and body through a choice of activities ranging from vinyasa yoga to cacao ceremonies. Happy Move provides creative space to channel and power up ideas with art exhibitions, flower workshops, dance and more. Open daily 10am-8pm, 126 Chulalongkorn 50, Wang Mai; instagram.com/slowcombo

THAILAND

CHIANG MAI / CHON BURI / TRAT

ALLURE OF TRANQUILLITY

Photos: Kalm Village

Seeking island serenity on the eastern coast? The enchanting fishing village of Ban Salak Khok sits in a narrow strait, surrounded by lush mangroves, on Koh Chang, Trat. Here you can immerse yourself in the local fishing culture, meander through mangrove thickets, or row a traditional Ruea Mad boat reminiscent of a Venetian gondola. Ban Salak Khok may be an hour’s drive from resorts on the west of the island, but the journey is well worth the effort. Whether you arrange a trip through your hotel or independently, the best time to be here is in the morning, when you can enjoy the crisp fresh air and gentle sea breeze.

SPOTLIGHT

Old Town’s Oasis of Kalm Nestled in the heart of Chiang Mai’s old town, Kalm Village is a vibrant art and culture community that attracts both locals and foreign visitors. Two interconnected courtyards encircled by eight distinctive buildings offer a feast of creativity and food. Explore the permanent textile exhibition at the Kalm Archive, savour grandma’s recipes at the restaurant, and peruse the spacious gallery showcasing the works of both seasoned and emerging artists. Kalm Village is at 14 Soi 4, Phrapokklao Rd. Open Monday to Sunday 9.30am to 6.30pm (closed on Wednesdays); +66 (0) 52 005 692, +66 (0) 93 320 9809; www.kalmvillage.com

SLOW LIFE IN SI RACHA

Photos: Little Town Sriracha

Si Racha, 35km north of Pattaya, is best known for its chilli sauce – but this coastal resort has so much more to offer. Overlooking Bang Phra Beach, the charming enclave of Little Town Sriracha offers a fresh perspective on Chon Buri’s coastal landscape. Exuding a subtle Mediterranean vibe, this hidden gem caters to active families and friends seeking sports and delicious food. Flat, calm waters make it perfect for stand-up paddleboarding or just

frolicking in the sun. In the evening, choose from the fabulous selection of Japanese restaurants serving ocean-fresh seafood, go Italian for wood-fired pizza, or grab a refreshing cocktail at an atmospheric hideaway.

49/6 Baan Rai Din Daeng 12, Sukhumvit Road, Bang Phra, Si Racha, Chon Buri; Open Tuesday to Thursday 10am to 9pm, Friday to Sunday 10am to 11pm; +66 (0) 86 562 4491, www.littletownsriracha.com

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HAPPENINGS HONG KONG / SINGAPORE

SPOTLIGHT

Have a Blast at Clockenflap Hong Kong’s biggest celebration of music and arts returns for an epic three-day festival in December.

Clockenflap will be back at the Central Harbourfront boasting a packed programme headlined by top regional and international talents.

The line-up for the outdoor festival has yet to be finalised, but several big stars have already confirmed their participation. They include US-

UNIQUE NEW YEAR PARTY

Hosting one of the liveliest and most anticipated New Year’s Eve countdowns on the planet, Hong Kong is the perfect place to welcome in 2024. Victoria Harbour provides the spectacular backdrop with its stunning cityscape etched against a night sky illuminated by colourful pyrotechnics and magnificent lighting effects.

But it’s not just fireworks that revellers can look forward to. Every year,

based Japanese singer-songwriter Joji, who will play Clockenflap as part of the Asian leg of his “Pandemonium” world tour. Also set to appear on a Harbourfront stage is J-pop sensation Atarashii Gakko!

Keep an eye out for additions to the list on the official website. December 1-3; Central Harbourfront Event Space; clockenflap.com

SUEDE AND THE MANICS

the Hong Kong New Year Countdown Celebrations feature exciting live concerts and performances, providing a party-like atmosphere for all in attendance. For international visitors, it offers a wonderful setting not only to wave goodbye to 2023 and welcome 2024 but also to indulge in great live music courtesy of some of Hong Kong’s best talents. December 31; Victoria Harbour; discoverhongkong.com

Fans of Suede and Manic Street Preachers are in for a treat.

The British bands will co-headline a concert in Singapore in November. After touring together across Europe since the mid-90s, this will be the first time the two bands appear as a double act in Asia.

In a rare treat for fans, the UK indie outfits are expected to run through their back catalogues while also introducing new songs to the live audience. English band Suede released their ninth studio album “Autofiction” last September, while Welsh rockers Manic Street Preachers are riding a new wave of popularity fuelled by “The Ultra Vivid Lament”, which was released in September 2021.

Epic performances featuring over three decades of hits should make this an unforgettable night for fans of Britpop and indie rock. November 22; The Star Theatre; livenation.sg Photo: Live Nation Singapore

Photo: Hong Kong Tourism Board

Photo: Clockenflap

CHINA / SINGAPORE

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HAPPENINGS CAMBODIA / LAOS

PHNOM PENH / LUANG PRABANG

SPOTLIGHT

Nest at the Russian Market

Photos: Sundown Social Club

Escape the bustle at Phnom Penh’s popular Russian Market by relaxing at the rooftop Sundown Social Club in the fashionable Toul Pom Poung district.

The chilled-out vibe and delicious array of cocktails, drinks and bar snacks forms a tranquil oasis floating above the hubbub below.

The tropical-themed venue also offers a great view of the Russian Market buzz below as well as spectacular panoramas of the setting sun. 86 Street 440, Russian Market; facebook.com/sundownsocialclub

BACK WITH A SPLASH

After turning off the taps for the ASEAN Summit last year, Cambodia’s Bon Om Touk water festival splashes back in November. Originating in the 12th century to usher in a bountiful harvest, these days the festival serves up traditions and a party mood for both locals and foreigners alike.

Bon Om Touk marks the end of the rainy season with three days of festivities in every province. The biggest celebration is in Phnom Penh, along the Tonle Sap River and in front of the Royal Palace. This year visitors can expect epic boat races, lantern-barge flotillas, firework displays, live concerts, and art performances. If hunger strikes, try the Auk Ambok, a sweet local treat made with flattened rice, coconut and banana served as an offering during full-moon celebrations. November 26-28; Tonle Sap River, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

THE KHMU-STYLE NEW YEAR

The Khmu, one of the largest ethnic minorities in Laos, come together every December to celebrate their traditional New Year, known as Boun Pod Pi or Boun Kreu. The resulting celebrations offer visitors a fascinating introduction to this unique culture via food, drink and dancing.

The spiritual core of the event is the prayers to thank ancestors for a bountiful harvest and prosperous and peaceful year ahead.

To mark the special day, everybody dresses in traditional attire and plays time-honoured games. Apart from being a great way to spend the day, the festival also gives tourists rare insights into the ethnicity and cultural heritage of the Khmu people. December 12; across Luang Prabang, Laos

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BANGKOK AIRWAYS: CONNECTING HAPPINESS THROUGH TRAVEL AND PILOTING ‘IMPRESSIVE ASIA’ FOR SUSTAINABLE GROWTH In its commitment to steady growth by balancing social and environmental responsibilities, Bangkok Airways is focusing on enhancing sustainable operating procedures in all aspects – environmental, social, economic, and good governance.

The airline recently received the maximum five “Stars of Sustainability” under the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT)’s “STAR: Sustainable Tourism Acceleration Rating” project.

This programme encourages businesses in the Thai tourism industry to achieve 17 Sustainable Tourism Goals (STG) in four dimensions: environment, society, economy, and good governance.

In addition, two airports managed

by Bangkok Airways – Sukhothai Airport and Samui Airport – won the award for excellence and outstanding environment in the transport category at the EIA Monitoring Awards 2023 under the Office of Natural Resources and Environmental Policy and Planning (ONEP).

Mr. Puttipong Prasarttong-Osoth, President and CEO of Bangkok Airways, said: “We are proud that our airline has won awards for environmental protection as well

as certification from national organisations. These reflect every person in the company’s commitment to various tasks to ensure the well-being of our society and the environment, so everybody can live together sustainably. This is especially true in the environmental aspect at our airports, where we prioritise supervision, monitoring

Top Sukhothai Airport and Samui Airport, managed by Bangkok Airways, won the award for excellence and outstanding environment in the transport category at the EIA Monitoring Awards 2023 Bottom The airline recently received the maximum five “Stars of Sustainability” under the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT)’s “STAR: Sustainable Tourism Acceleration Rating” project

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and improvement of processes to prevent negative impacts on communities nearby.

“Our two airports also received the national ‘G – Green’ awards in 2021, which were handed out to promote environmentally friendly airports [Green Airport] by the Department of Environmental Quality Promotion. Samui Airport won an honorary excellence award for its open-air passenger building, which helps save huge amounts of electricity.

Meanwhile, Trat Airport won an honorary award for efficient resource and energy management.

I believe these awards will build confidence and trust in our sustainable development principles for the maximum benefit to the organisation's stakeholders, society and the environment,” Mr. Puttipong added.

SOCIAL DIMENSIONS: DEVELOPING OPPORTUNITIES, HUMAN CAPITAL, AND COMMUNITIES

Bangkok Airways has always focused on nurturing all stakeholders, offering various opportunities with the goals of safety, human capital development, community involvement and promoting local careers to generate income for communities.

To meet these aims we have launched many projects, including reviving traditional oyster farming in Trat’s Khao Saming district, promoting community tourism, supporting people with disabilities (Section 35), the “Wings for Dreams” project to give young people educational opportunities, and supporting community health. All these projects share the same goal of achieving supportive, sustainable coexistence between the surrounding communities and the airport.

ECONOMIC DIMENSION: SUSTAINABLE GROWTH WITH GOOD GOVERNANCE

Bangkok Airways places great importance on its quality of service for maximum satisfaction of all stakeholders by adhering to the principles of good corporate governance. This was reflected by a “very good” score we earned in the corporate governance

survey of listed companies conducted by the Thai Institute of Directors Association.

In response to the rapidly changing technology trends, the company is also focusing on developing a cybersecurity gateway to safeguard systems and information, including knowledgebuilding among employees.

Bangkok Airways currently flies to 16 destinations in Thailand and overseas. The company plans to maximise its potential to support tourism and develop various management systems, including compliance with government rules and regulations to meet international standards for Bangkok Airways’ sustainability goal of “Connecting Happiness Through Impressive Travel Experiences.”

Clockwise from Top Capt. Puttipong Prasarttong-Osoth, President and CEO of Bangkok Airways, leads "Wings for Dreams" flying experience for young people Yaya Urassaya Sperbund, joins the "Wings for Dreams" activity with the kids Reviving traditional oyster farming in Khao Saming district in Trat Top & Bottom Left Making ceramics from oyster shells

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CHECKING OUT

IllumiNation When in Lanna, do as Lanna people do! Once a year, the Yi Peng Lantern Festival lights up Chiang Mai as people from all walks of life gather to launch khom loys. This year, the floating lanterns will illuminate the sky like a sea of glowing jellyfish from November 26-28.

As well as providing a visually stunning spectacle, this ancient ritual conveys locals’ belief that letting go of all the ills and troubles of the previous year will allow them to start afresh, spiritually rejuvenated.

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