Open Skies November 2018

NOVEMBER 2018

DISCOVER A NEW DUBAI How the city’s districts cater to every kind of tourist

CAN FOOD INSPIRE SOCIAL CHANGE? BURBERRY AND THE BUSINESS OF BRANDING

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF OBAID HUMAID AL TAYER

GROUP EDITOR

MANAGING PARTNER & GROUP EDITOR

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

IAN FAIRSERVICE

GINA JOHNSON gina@motivate.ae

EDITOR

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR

MARK EVANS marke@motivate.ae

GEORGINA LAVERS georgina.lavers@motivate.ae

OLGA PETROFF olga.petroff@motivate.ae

DIGITAL ANIMATOR

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT

SURAJIT DUTTA surajit@motivate.ae

LONDRESA FLORES londresa@motivate.ae

ART DIRECTOR

CLARKWIN CRUZ clarkwin@motivate.ae

AARTI SAUNDALKAR aarti@motivate.ae

CONTRIBUTORS James Brennan; Emma Coiler; Sudeshna Ghosh; Lauren Mele; Conor Purcell; Louise Tam; Rosalind Thomas; Sean Williams.

Front cover illustration: Liam Cobb

GENERAL MANAGER PRODUCTION

SUNIL KUMAR sunil@motivate.ae

PRODUCTION MANAGER

R MURALI KRISHNAN muralik@motivate.ae

CHIEF COMMERCIAL OFFICER

ANTHONY MILNE anthony@motivate.ae

GROUP SALES MANAGER

MICHAEL UNDERDOWN michael@motivate.ae

SENIOR SALES MANAGER

ASSISTANT PRODUCTION MANAGER

MURALI NARAYANAN murali@motivate.ae

BINU PURANDARAN binu@motivate.ae

EDITORIAL CONSULTANTS FOR EMIRATES

EDITOR

MANNA TALIB

DEPUTY EDITOR

CATHERINE FREEMAN

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Printed by Emirates Printing Press, Dubai, UAE

R ule yo ur is l a nd o asis.

Di s cover en d l e ss exp erien ces.

C re ate u nfo rg e t t ab le memories.

Ind ul g e. E x p lo re. Con q uer.

Yo ur p a la ce awa its at c aesa rs d u b ai . a e

CONTENTS NOVEMBER 2018

66 DUBAI Sea-side to old town From Al Seef to La Mer, D3 to Al Quoz – discover the diverse districts of Dubai 66

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81

GLOBAL

EMIRATES

The Year of Zayed Merging ancient and modern 78

Experience 18 Stay: Austria to the QE2 20 Dom Joly: A hunt for a classic kiev Dispatch: Restoring Hong Kong Neighbourhood: Manila 34 The food inciting change 42 What’s in a logo?

52 The scent of Oman 60

26 28

Latest news 82 Inside Emirates 84 Destination: Accra, Ghana 86 UAE Smart Gate 88 Route maps 90 The fleet 96 Celebrity directions: The producer of Venom on the best of New York 98

Expo 2020 Creating opportunity 76

armanicasa.com

Milan, Paris, London, New York, Los Angeles, Miami, Shanghai, Beijing, Tokyo

15

EDITOR’S NOTE INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS MACHINES

FOLLOW US facebook.com/ openskiesmag twitter.com/ openskiesmag instagram.com/ openskiesmag

What’s in a name? For some it is a way of distinguishing one’s nationality (Americans prefacing Gap with “The”; Lego deriving its name from leg godt, “play well” in Danish). For others, a way of honouring one’s beginnings; Adobe was, rather sweetly, named after a creek that flowed behind the founder’s house. And some are a quaint relic of the past; one can imagine the young upstart TJ Watson Sr and his ambitiously-named ‘International Business Machines’ – which would of course later become IT giant IBM. In “Have we lost our lust for logos?” (p.52) Conor Purcell examines the ups and downs of branding in the digital age, using the recent rebrand of Burberry as a case study.

Perhaps my favourite story of modern nomenclature is the sorry tale of Hedi Slimane’s takeover of Yves Saint Laurent in 2012. The designer promptly caused chaos with his imperious demands when it came to the brand’s usage, dropping the “Yves”, adding a “Paris” – the latter instructed to never be uttered out loud – and a host of other befuddling changes.

Any queries on this volte-face were answered with a swift ban from any of YSL’s runway shows, a fate that befell The Business of Fashion’s Imran Amed after attempting to make sense of the changes.

In a scorching essay, Amed wrote: “This kind of behaviour reveals a fundamental misunderstanding of how winning brands are built in today’s world. Successful brands... can’t be dictated. They must be nurtured.”

It is a salient reminder for companies that when it comes to brand interpretation in the modern age, it pays very little to be precious.

Georgina Lavers, Editor

Let Sharjah be your next adventure

Discover ancient fossils buried in desert sands, enjoy dune bashing, camel riding, trekking through the mountains, the list is endless. Find your way to Sharjah where adventures await.

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DISPATCH

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NEIGHBOURHOOD

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LOGOS

PHOTO: NIGEL YOUNG / FOSTER + PARTNERS

EXPERIENCE

The billion dollar restoration Abstract stylings of The Murray, a hotel on Hong Kong’s Cotton Tree Drive. It is just one of many buildings being refurbished by a city determined to restore its original landmarks. p.28

18 / GLOBAL / EXPERIENCE

The Plan EVENTS TO AIM FOR THIS MONTH EMIRATES AIRLINE DUBAI RUGBY SEVENS, NOV 29 - DEC 1

A fan favourite The Emirates Airline Dubai Rugby Sevens has exploded from a tiny group of expats into a worldwide force, says tournament director Jim Fitzsimons The Emirates Airline Dubai Rugby Sevens began 49 years ago. How much has changed since then?

allowed rugby to grow and be played daily on the eight grass pitches throughout the year.

From what started with a small group of British expats at Dubai Exiles RFC, the Emirates Airline Dubai Rugby Sevens has grown into one of the world’s premier Sevens Series events.

The Dubai Sevens was played on sand by a group of enterprising expatriates who little realised the size that the event would be today. The growth has been phenomenal, with over 100,000 fans now attending the world’s largest rugby tournament, featuring the initial leg of the HSBC World Rugby Men’s and the second leg of the HSBC Women’s Sevens Series tournaments each year.

The tournament was transformed by the support of Emirates Airline when they became involved in the late 1980s and subsequently purpose-built The Sevens Stadium in 2008, which has

How many teams now enter the Emirates Airline Dubai Rugby Sevens?

Jim Fitzsimons

There are 16 international teams in the HSBC World Rugby Sevens Series, 12 teams in the HSBC World Rugby Women’s Sevens Series, and over 270 teams in the Emirates Airline Invitation Rugby Tournament, which includes touring clubs from all over the world. Some are very competitive and some truly social.

What can fans expect from this year’s event, aside from rugby?

We’ve expanded our family offering immensely to ensure families continue to receive value for money when visiting the Dubai Sevens. As well as offering free entry for all children under 12 and free entry on Thursday 29 November for everyone, the rugby village will feature a brand new water park, adventure zone,

climbing walls and archery tag. Fans can expect lots of fun and entertainment on pitch one including our Britney Spears tribute artist flying over from Las Vegas for the weekend, lots of dancers, competitions, an array of food and beverages in the Rugby Village, a party late into the night with a popular Dubai-based DJ, and plenty of activities from sponsors.

Where do you see the Emirates Airline Dubai Rugby Sevens headed over the next few years?

We pride ourselves on being a flagship event for Dubai and this drives us to be better in all we do for the tournament. We have to continue to evolve and be relevant in today’s events landscape to ensure we remain the sporting and social event of the year. We’ve already started planning for the 50th anniversary next year – a huge milestone for us so everyone can expect even more exciting celebrations in 2019.

The Sevens Stadium. dubairugby7s.com

WAF 2018 Shortlisted: Zeitz MOCAA

by Heatherwick Studio, Cape Town, South Africa

PHOTO: IWAN BAAN

GLOBAL / EXPERIENCE / 19

NOVEMBER 28-30

WORLD ARCHITECTURE FESTIVAL

PHOTO: NIKOLAJ LUND 2017

PHOTO: ÁSTA SIF ÁRNADÓTTIR

Watch as architects take to the stage to present their completed buildings and future projects live to a panel of internationally renowned judges and delegates from around the world. This often nail-biting programme centres around the awards, but there is also a lively programme of talks – this year including Sir David Adjaye OBE and Caroline Bos. RAI Amsterdam, Netherlands. worldarchitecturefestival.com

NOVEMBER 7-10

NOVEMBER 11-15

NOVEMBER 16-18

ICELAND AIRWAVES

THE ASEAN SUMMIT

MUSICUS FEST

It started in 1999 in an empty airplane hangar. Now the world’s most northerly music showcase and industry festival has become an insider’s favourite. It’s not an Icelandic Coachella (although Björk and The Flaming Lips have performed here), but instead a site to fall in love with bands unknown – whilst discovering the side roster of art and fashion.

Reykjavik, Iceland. icelandairwaves.is

Held twice a year, this is the premier strategic forum for the economic, security and socio-cultural development of Southeast Asian countries and has been praised for enacting tangible change. As well as leaders of the 10 ASEAN nations, there will be attendance from leaders of Russia, China, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, South Korea, and the US. Singapore. asean.org

Listen to four exhilarating programmes featuring the critically acclaimed Trondheim Soloists, joined by nyckelharpa (a Swedish folk instrument) champion Emilia Amper and Hong Kong’s premier jazz guitarist Eugene Pao. The festival also showcases homegrown talents, who will share the stage with celebrated artists from Germany and Italy.

Hong Kong City Hall. musicussociety.org.

20 / GLOBAL / WHERE TO STAY

BOGAWANTALAWA

31.9454° N, 35.9284° E

PRICE: FROM US$140 PER NIGHT

A boutique luxury retreat that reveals a distinctly different side to Sri Lanka

NEIGHBOURHOOD The complimentary Dilmah tea factory tours, where the entire process of tea-making – from plantation to packaging – is explained, are not to be missed. The surrounding landscape is ideal for hikes, with several walking trails around each bungalow. After dark, you can also opt for a night safari in an open-top Land Rover for wildlife spotting. For adventures further afield, day trips to historic town Kandy and nearby elephant sanctuaries are also available.

A hideaway in the tea country

PHOTO: SEBASTIAN POSINGIS

WORDS: SUDESHNA GHOSH

Nestled amidst the Central Highlands’ tea estates, Ceylon Tea Trails consists of five heritage bungalows that have been sensitively restored to recreate the luxurious colonial experience – complete with four-poster beds, art deco bathrooms, vintage photos and well worn coffee table books, croquet lawns, and hand-on-foot Carson-style butler service.

Each bungalow, located to serve as a vantage point for planters in the 1900s, now provides the perfect perch to enjoy uninterrupted views of the misty mountains carpeted with lush green plantations and moody skies –best enjoyed over a cup of the finest Ceylon tea, of course; the estate is owned by the pioneers of Sri Lankan tea farming after all.

In fact, afternoon cream tea is kind of a big deal here – there’s that colonial throwback again – with the daily ritual of delicious pastries and scones becoming a real highlight as you ease into a slower pace,

with little else but birdsong and that book you’ve been meaning to read providing the only distractions.

Every meal is like a feast, though. From made-to-order breakfasts to lavish lunches and dinners that range from a classic Sri Lankan multi-course curry fest to gourmet European dishes – many of which come with a tea-infused twist – the day feels like a non-stop ode to culinary indulgences. Of note, too, is the culinary attention to detail – with the chef taking time to speak to each guest to discuss the day’s menu.

The intimate bungalows are dotted across the plantations, each containing no more than six bedrooms. With inviting common areas designed for lounging, plus a nobills policy (everything is included in the price), this is the kind of place where that elusive feeling of holidaying in a hospitable friend’s home is effortlessly achieved.

BOGAWANTALAWA

Emirates operates four daily services to Colombo with the Boeing 777. Choose from three nonstop daily services, and a fourth daily service that makes a stop in Malé, Maldives.

22 / GLOBAL / WHERE TO STAY

VIENNA

48.2082° N, 16.3738° E

PRICE: FROM US$145 PER NIGHT

A quirky stay in Vienna, Europe’s most liveable city

Go your own way in Austria’s Grätzlhotel WORDS: CHRISTOPHER BEANLAND

OTHER QUIRKY ALTERNATIVES The other Grätzlhotel suites are spread around Karmelitermarkt and the rest of the city. In the 4th district, for example, you can stay at a former art studio or inside an old tobacconist’s shop. And in Miedling an old sweet shop and bakery has been turned into a luxe street suite. There are also rooms in the trendy Neubau district too.

FROM THE CONCIERGE Marie Felmayer As far as shopping goes I would recommend the Karmlitermarkt as it carries a lot of traditional goods and is very famous.

An interesting museum to check out is the Kriminalmuseum, in the 2nd district.

If you love parks, Augarten is a beautiful, very well kept garden and is definitely a must-see!

For a stay in the capital this year deemed “the most liveable in the world” by the Economist Intelligence Unit, Grätzlhotel offers travellers something both luxurious and unexpected.

Its modus operandi is to provide something between a design hotel room and an Airbnb – a door key collected from a box means little human interaction, although staff are at the end of a phone call or online if you need help.

Deemed a ‘street suite’, my room was a former lampshade maker and light repairer’s store, with a quirky lightshade repurposed from vintage lampshades lending a humorous nod to the space’s former purpose. Guests enter straight from the street into a sizeable open-plan bedroom, living area and full kitchen with food and drink items in the fridge you can buy. This is just one of dozens of unique places to stay Grät-

zlhotel offers. The Urbanauts collective, a team of architects and designers who created this idea, lend a style to the rooms that is fresh, lively and imaginative – the wallmounted seats and huge table are quirky yet convivial and the plump cushions spread around add a sprinkle of that famous Teutonic sense of Gemütlichkeit (cosiness).

It’s a short stroll to Central Vienna’s attractions and an even shorter one to Karmelitermarkt, where various cafes serve brunch or you can pick up fresh eggs and asparagus to cook and oranges to juice. As the room is directly off the street, the feeling is of being a part of the city itself – ready to wander the streets like Jesse and Celine, the characters in the (Vienna-shot) Before Sunrise. Grätzlhotel is an out-of-the-ordinary but high-end experience that is sure to linger in the memory.

VIENNA

Emirates operates two nonstop daily services between Dubai and Vienna.

Choose from a daily A380 service and a daily Boeing 777-300ER service.

- AR6079

24 / MY DUBAI / WHERE TO STAY

DUBAI

25.2048° N, 55.2708° E

PRICE: FROM US$95 PER NIGHT

Stay on one of the most famous ships in history

A historical port of call WORDS: LAUREN MELE

It was the time of Beatlemania, of man’s first landing on the moon, of pop art and psychedelia. Then there was Queen Elizabeth II. Christened in 1967, the world’s most celebrated ocean liner was built to ferry passengers between London and New York, a journey that took her five days at a steady 29 knots.

After 1,400 voyages and stints as a troopship in the Falklands War, the QE2 became synonymous with maritime engineering, craftsmanship, and an enduring timelessness.

Over 50 years later and Dubai’s Mina Rashid is the boat’s new port of call, where she is docked permanently as a hotel as well as museum, restuarant, nightclub, and more.

For nautical buffs, the attention to detail during restoration will delight. Most venues, from the gin bar to British pub to the Yacht Club, have been lovingly restored to their former glory, complete with original furniture and fittings.

There are five different room options, ranging from the cozy standard room to the captain’s club room with balcony for a true executive experience, For casual dining, head to the buffet on the Quarter Deck for a classic British roast or Arabic mezze, but for a standout meal, try the nine-course tasting menu that takes inspiration from the ‘60s and is prepared by chef Rama, a former chef from the QE2’s sailing days. Guests can enjoy classics such as scallops and baby chicken with wine pairings given by an expert sommelier.

Nightlife is even included in the form of the Hatch, a former engine room that has been converted into a sub-terranean club, with industrial EDM music to boot.

With other attractions such as live cabaret shows and a top deck pool underway, the QE2 looks to be less a hotel, than an entire nautical experience.

NEIGHBOURHOOD The boat is docked just a five-minute cab journey from Al Fahidi, the heart of Dubai’s old district. Check out the gold, spice and textile souks, as well as some of the museums – Dubai Coffee Museum has unique tasting sessions of cultural traditions, such as the Ethiopian practice of serving coffee with salt and popcorn.

DUBAI

Hamza Mustafa, CEO of PCFC Hotels, gives us a fascinating and behindthe-scenes look at the QE2 now restored and open to the public in Port Rashid, Dubai. Now playing on the Emirates World podcast channel 1900 on ice.

26 / GLOBAL / COLUMN

KIEV 50.4501° N, 30.5234° E

kiev in Kiev

Dom Joly leads a fruitless search for a chicken dish, and gets to the bottom of a serious matter in Ukraine

Enjoy connections to over 250 destinations with Emirates and flydubai. Earn and spend Emirates Skywards Miles and enjoy privileges and benefits when you travel across the world with both airlines.

I’ve just been travelling through the Ukraine, a country probably not too high on people’s holiday list.

I was there to make a film on Europe’s forgotten war for Save The Children. Just three hours’ flight from London is an ongoing war with a five hundred-mile long frontline with regular shelling, fighting and a serious landmine problem.

I met kids caught up in the fighting who had been bombed out of their flats, injured by landmines and were having to cross the front line every day just to get to school.

Save The Children provided, among other things, community centres where kids could do normal things like art, music and play. It reminded me very much of growing up in a civil war in Beirut and I was all too aware of the negative effects that these experiences would have on these poor kids.

Travelling to these areas inevitably has some downtime and we spent a night next to what I assumed was the Black Sea. Having posted several photos of me by the Black Sea for the first time I was corrected by geographically astute followers who told me it was actually the wonderfully named Sea of Azov that sounds like the name of a new Tintin book.

Ukraine is a massive country and very difficult to get your head around. One par-

ticularly odd fact is that you can’t get chicken Kiev in Kiev.

On a previous trip to the country I scoured the capital for it, but nobody even knew what it was. It is obviously a Western invention, much like some of the most popular Indian dishes in the UK, like chicken tikka masala, that are totally unknown in India itself. There used to be a very popular TV advert in the UK for a fruit drink called Um Bongo. The song in the advert repeated over and over again “Um Bongo, they drink it in the Congo.” On a trip to the Congo I visited several supermarkets and asked whether they stocked Um Bongo. They had never heard of it. I am currently suing the manufacturers of the drink for deceit.

The weirdest thing I found in the Ukraine, however, were the signs in the public toilets. One in particular caught my eye. Two scenes in red showed a stick man with a large roll of paper in his hand and, what appeared to be a man standing up with the toilet stuck to his bottom. Conversations with our Ukrainian guides led us to the bottom of this mystery. Apparently, the sign was telling people not to steal the loo paper… or the toilet itself. I asked my guide whether this was a big problem in the country. “Welcome to the Ukraine...” she said.

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Louise Tam explores the heritage institutions that are being reimagined – whilst still celebrating the city’s local talent WORDS: LOUISE TAM

IMAGES: NIGEL YOUNG

Should Hong Kong’s past be protected?

The Murray hotel has its roots as a government building in the 1960s

Wooden ceiling fans whirr as guests on the verandah of Madame Fu’s Grand Cafe Chinois sip martinis and eat char siu on a steamy summer Hong Kong evening.

Dripping in colonial glamour, this could easily be a scene from Love Is a Many Splendored Thing, the iconic 1955 film that so romantically depicted grand architecture of the then-British territory.

Today, most of those colonial landmarks are gone: bulldozed by the time the British handed Hong Kong back to China in July 1997. In the late 20th century, the city instead threw up glass skyscrapers in its rush to become a global centre of banking and commerce. “If you look at Hong Kong in the 1970s to 1990s,” says Hoyin Lee, co-founder and director of the Architectural Conservation Programme at Hong Kong University, “it was a thirdworld city, a developing economy. Under these circumstances, people were only

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1. Victoria Prison, a former colonial prison and police station 2. A plaza within the University of Hong Kong

concerned about basic survival, not preserving architectural heritage.”

Today, Hong Kong is one of the top 10 wealthiest cities in the world and architecturally, things are changing. The beautiful former police barracks that houses Madame Fu’s dates back to 1864 and is the centrepoint of Tai Kwun: the biggest heritage conservation project ever undertaken in Hong Kong, which features some of the earliest structures built under British colonial rule, and opened its doors to the public this spring.

Nestled in the neon nucleus of Central, this cluster of 16 heritage buildings, all built between 1864 and 1925, once served as the city’s Central Police Station, Central Magistracy and Victoria Prison, and their supporting facilities.

It has taken the Hong Kong Jockey Club (HKJC), an NGO and one of the oldest

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institutions in Hong Kong, eight years and HK$3.8 billion (US$484 million) to reimagine this area as one of the most exciting new public spaces the city has seen for years. An arts and heritage hub, it will stage Shakespeare plays, provide storytelling spaces and present exhibitions by contemporary local artists, as well as house artisan shops and more hipster dining spots.

“If you look at all great cities around the world, they want creative industries to be in line with their economy,” says Lee, who was involved in developing the Tai Kwun project. “So in Hong Kong they are trying to jump start that because the city has really been pinned down by the property developers.”

Lee recalls the case of Ho Tung Gardens, an ornate Chinese renaissance

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mansion built in 1927 by Sir Robert Hotung, the first Chinese man allowed by the British to live on the Peak, the city’s version of Mayfair in London. That property could have developed into a tourist attraction, hotel or leisure facility. But in 2015 Hotung’s granddaughter sold the plot to a Chinese developer for a staggering HK$5.1 billion. “She took the money and ran,” says Lee. While the Hong Kong Antiquities Advisory Board failed to save that building, regional competitors Shanghai and Singapore both long ago realised the importance of preserving their heritage buildings: the General Post Office in Singapore, which dates back to 1829, for example, has been transformed into the landmark five-star Fullerton Hotel.

“The most iconic part of Shanghai is

The Bund,” says Lee, “and every single building there is a heritage building.”

Public anger in Hong Kong mounted after a series of unsuccessful protests in 2006 failed to avert the demolition of the beloved old Star Ferry Pier, from where boats had been crossing the harbor from Hong Kong Island to Kowloon since 1888. The Star Ferry itself still runs from a new pier, and offers excellent views of one of the world’s best skylines.

The year after the old pier’s destruction, the government launched a scheme which ever since has been identifying historic public buildings to preserve and make available to the public.

The Tai O Heritage Hotel was in the first wave of projects. Known locally as “the Venice of Hong Kong,” Tai O is a fishing community on stilts, famous for

its seafood restaurants and local Chinese pink dolphins, which tourists take boats out to see. The Tai O police station, from 1902, with its arched facade and panoramic views of the South China Sea, was made a Grade II listed building, restored and, in 2010, re-opened as a luxury boutique hotel with just nine rooms. Some of the shutters still carry bullet holes from bygone standoffs with local pirates.

Joanna Luk, communications manager of the hotel, says: “This is not a hotel project. We are the stewards of this historic site and we put our hearts into managing the hotel for the community. “(Our aim was) not only to restore the historic site’s building fabric, but also to use it as a platform to celebrate the rich history of this former police sta-

IMAGES: MICHAEL WEBER / FOSTER + PARTNERS; TAI O HERITAGE; GETTY IMAGES

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3. The renovated former Central Police Station compound in the Tai Kwun Centre 4. A classic Hong Kong juxtaposition of old and new 5, 7, 8. The Murray and Tai O Hotels have both undergone restoration in recent years 6. Victoria Harbour, between Kowloon and Hong Kong Island

tion, and help to rejuvenate the historic Tai O fishing village.”

Since the hotel opened, similar projects have snowballed. In 2014, the old Police Married Headquarters reopened in Central, after a major restoration as a creative space for local fashion brands and artisans, known in this reincarnation simply as PMQ. While in 2011, developer Wharf Holdings bought the modernist-era Murray building in Admiralty for HK$4.4 billion. Located in the bullseye of the banking district, many expected the tower to be razed but instead plans were announced for a luxury heritage hotel designed by Foster + Partners. The property opened to great acclaim earlier this year, lauded for its respectful updating of the existing architecture.

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Colin Ward, senior partner at Foster + Parners, says that Murray, having been built in the 1970s was not just an “iconic landmark” but also “a distinctive presence” on the skyline. It’s modernist “punched windows, brilliant white façade and majestic arches at ground level” were not the typical example of British colonial architecture. The building was, however, an early exemplar of sustainable design.” Those deep-set windows, he explains, were designed to shield rooms from the blistering subtropical sun. Ward’s team kept that aspect of the modernist facade, but updated other features of the distinctive tower less suited to 21st-century Hong Kong.

“A former government building, The Murray was designed at a time when the city was planned around the car,” says

Ward. “Consequently, it stands on an island surrounded by roads, impenetrable to pedestrians.” His team “stitched it back to the landscape” using greenery and walkways.

But perhaps its most modern feature is that – like all good Hong Kong five-star hotels today – the Murray has a rooftop bar, Poppinjays. Sipping an Old Fashioned, admiring views of the rear side of the city’s famous skyline and the dramatic surrounding mountains, the feeling is of a bygone era with a thoroughly modern twist.

Emirates operates three nonstop daily services to Hong Kong and fourth daily service that makes a stop in Bangkok.

34 / GLOBAL / EXPLORATION

NEIGHBOURHOOD

BINONDO, MANILA

38.7126° N, 9.1816° W

Since the 16th Century, Binondo has been the life and soul of the Philippines’ Chinese community – an island of tradition amid Manila’s frantic push to modernise

Binondo, Manila

PHOTO: THE CONTAGIOUS INC

WORDS: SEAN WILLIAMS

A street vendor hawks his wares in Chinatown

To stand on the centre of the sweeping Jones Bridge, which connects Manila’s two most historic districts across the Pasig River, is to straddle not only a megacity but two continents. On one side is Intramuros (Latin for within the walls), the core of Spain’s colonial trade from the Philippines to Mexico. On the other is Binondo, a vibrant, variegated business district crammed with cafes, restaurants and architectural relics that mark it as the world’s oldest Chinatown.

Binondo was founded in 1594 by Spanish conquistadors to house the Catholic Chinese residents of Manila: only baptised locals could live there.

From then, Binondo became the financial heart of the Philippine capital, curtailed only by 18th-century British raids, and a subsequent earthquake, that razed many of its traditional Chinese buildings to the ground.

All that remained back then was the bell tower of Binondo Church, a grand, grey-bricked basilica that stands proudly at the edge of the Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz, the rambunctious, traffic-choked centrepiece of Manila’s most interesting quarter.

It is among dozens of sights most visitors miss, preferring the tourist-friendly trappings of Intramuros.

But they’re missing out. Intramuros is beautiful but it is a museum. Binondo is still living large, thronged by pedestrians, mopeds and iconic jeepneys, the Philippine “kings of the road”. Its local residents are often known as “Tsinoy,” a portmanteau of “Chinese” and “Pinoy”, an informal Philippine demonym.

Centuries as second-class citizens have entrenched traditions and art seen nowhere else in Metro Manila. In the 1960s, as Chinese fled Mao Zedong’s Cultural Revolution, the Philippine government banned Chinese symbols, and demanded lanterns and shop signs be decorated either in English or Tagalog, the Philippine national language.

Today that has changed, and Chinese script lines every street. Despite having long been toppled as the cap-

ital’s economic ganglion by nearby Makati, Binondo is a warren of trade and tastes unlike any other in town. “If you ask me, Binondo is not the heart but the soul (of Manila),” says Go, who takes foreigners around Binondo, sometimes even cooking Chinese dishes for them.

“You walk past these people, these cars, you see normal people. You don’t see people in suits. You see people in slippers, shorts. You’re just you here.”

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ESCOLTA STREET Once Manila’s hip, downtown shopping district, this bustling street is better known today for its clutch of crumbling, yet beautiful, art deco buildings that thrusted skywards during the Philippines’ American colonial period, between 1898 and 1935. Below them sat perfumeries and boutiques that have been replaced by office space and gimcrack food joints. But the architectural charm of the Capitol Theater, First United Building and others are unlike anything else in Manila.

Escolta Street, Binondo 1006 Manila

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A FIVE-MINUTE WALK FROM JONES BRIDGE

BINONDO CHURCH The recipient of a recent, lurid paintjob, including Michelangelo-esque frescoes on its walls and ceilings, this centuries-old church – officially the Minor Basilica of Saint Lorenzo Ruiz – is the undisputed heart of Binondo, and a popular meeting spot before a night on the town. The paving outside is made from Chinese cemetery headstones, as are many Binondo streets – some of which still carry their initial inscriptions.

Plaza L. Ruiz, Binondo 1006 Manila

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A FIVE-MINUTE WALK

CARVAJAL STREET Diving right off Quintin Paredes Street, just before you get to Binondo Church, you’ll find Carvajal Street, a partially-covered market road on which food stalls and fruit and veg sellers rub shoulders with coffee shops, fast food eateries and, on some days, fishermen hawking their catch. Known once as an umbrella market, this cramped street is, in many ways, the essence of the neighborhood: cramped, fun and friendly. Quik Snack and the Ho-Land Bakery are particular local favourites.

Carvajal Street, Binondo 1006 Manila

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NEW TOHO FOOD CENTER This neighbourhood restaurant, with its drab, purple-daubed walls and outside rotisserie, may not look much at first glance. It’s actually Manila’s oldest remaining restaurant, established in 1866 and still so popular that most of its fresh-cooked meat dishes – many of

which combine Chinese and Filipino cooking techniques – are sold out by 1.30pm. Its name means “just enough” in the Hokkien language of southern China, from where many of Binondo’s residents hail. Philippine national literary hero Jose Rizal came to eat lumpia: local spring rolls.

New Toho Food Center, 422-424 Tomas Pinpin St, Binondo 1006 Manila, +63 2242 0294

PHOTO: MARVIN SIA

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A 10-MINUTE WALK

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A 10-MINUTE WALK

CAFE MEZZANINE As its name suggests, this second-floor restaurant offers panoramic views of the neighborhood, and serves a wide variety of traditional Chinese food like kampong – flavoured rice with nuts – and a wide range of dim sum. A good spot to people-watch, or simply to unwind after a long day’s walking.

Cafe Mezzanine, 650 Ongpin St, Binondo 1006 Manila, +63 2288 8888 ext. 230, cafemezzanine.com

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DID YOU KNOW

A 6-MINUTE WALK

Binondo has over 100 restaurants packed into less than one square kilometre

NEW CHINATOWN ARCH

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Marking the formal entry into Binondo from Jones Bridge, this 2015-built edifice is the largest of its kind in the world.

Not everyone’s happy though: most Tsinoys prefer the old arch, inscribed with “Filipino-Chinese Friendship Arch”, just a hundred-or-so metres away. It is still a great way to enter Binondo – not least because at pretty much any hour the streets below are choked full of auto-rickshaws, jeepneys and rushing foot traffic. When looking out across the Pasig River, it’s a great spot for photos.

Binondo Chinatown Arch, Quintin Paredes Rd, Binondo 1006 Manila

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A FIVE-MINUTE WALK BACK TO ESCOLTA ST.

THE DEN Many locals fear for Binondo’s historic architecture: few preservation laws exist, and many owners are happy to sell as a Chinese-spurred building boom plots tower blocks all over the neighbourhood.

There is, however, some good news.

While some art deco gems like the Capitol have been stripped to their bare facades, others like the First United Building have been repurposed by young Madrileños.

The Den, for example, is a Brooklyn-esque cafe and arts space, that’s a hive of hip and exciting events.

The Den, 413 Escolta St, Binando 1006 Manila, +63 2960 365

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A 14-MINUTE WALK

LUCKY CHINATOWN This monstrous, 108,000 square metre shopping mall and entertainment centre has become an icon of the new, wealthy Binondo, into which Chinese and middle-class Filipino money is pouring. Officially opened in 2012 it replaced two public schools, and has now arguably overtaken the Plaza San Lorenzo Ruiz as the district’s prime meeting point. It might not be as pretty or historic as its neighbours, but as a slice of neon-soaked Tsinoy life it’s unparalleled.

Lucky Chinatown, Lucky Chinatown Plaza, Lachambre St, Binondo 1006 Manila

MANILA

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F O O D

WORDS: JAMES BRENNAN

F O R T H O U G H T

DOWN ON NORWAY’S SOUTHERNMOST TIP IS A RESTAURANT LIKE NO OTHER IN EUROPE.

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P artially submerged beneath the North Sea off the coast of Lindesnes, ‘Under’ will soon become the continent’s first subaquatic dining space. From a distance it looks as though a concrete monolith has toppled from the shore into the ocean.

But by the time Under opens in April next year, tourists and intrepid epicures alike will be able to dine while observing the marine environment from its giant panoramic window onto the seabed.

The design team behind Under, Snøhetta, call it a ‘sunken periscope’ through which the ocean floor can be intimately observed as it changes with the seasons. With three levels, a champagne bar, and a captivating view, Under will offer up to 100 diners a rare opportunity to see up-close the natural habitat of their dinner. But this is no gimmick. Under the surface, Under amounts to more than it seems.

It will also function as a marine research centre, with the aim of educating the public about the biodiversity of the sea. It is hoped the textured surface of the structure’s metre-thick concrete shell will attract molluscs, eventually creating an artificial mussel reef that will help purify the surrounding waters as they feed, thereby attracting more diverse marine creatures. Not only will diners be able to try new and exciting local ingredients, but also it is hoped that they will take away a lasting impression of the diversity and fragility of our seas.

As such, Under is one of a growing number of restaurants on a mission to enact social or environmental change.

Tourist officials say they hope Under’s opening will boost excitement around the country in general

Trond Rafoss is the marine biologist at Under. He sees public participation as key to saving our seas. “We think the more people that enjoy the ocean, and the better the scientific and public understanding of the ecosystems, the greater potential we will have to take care of the ocean ecosystems.” Nicolai Ellitsgaard, Under’s Danish head chef, agrees. “It is important to educate people about marine life, and to encourage them to take more care of our oceans. I hope that through our window, our eye onto the ocean seabed, we can encourage people to take more care and have more respect for nature, which is actually just on loan to us, and which we need to pass on to future generations in as good shape as possible.”

When ready, Ellitsgaard’s menu will be like no other. He has scoured the sur-

rounding area to discover some strange but, he insists, tasty local ingredients.

Take the ‘sea truffle’, for example, a kind of seaweed with an appearance as surprising as its flavour. It looks like cylindrical, densely tufted, dark reddish-purple fronds. The real name is polysiphonia lanosa. “I searched for six months before I finally found it,” he says. “It’s amazing that you can find something in the Norwegian sea that tastes just like summer truffles from Italy or France.”

Among Ellistgaard’s other favourite local ingredients are stone crab and rugose squat lobster; both frequently overlooked by consumers and local fishermen, who often throw them back into the sea. “People don’t buy them because they don’t know about them. The squat lobster meat has a sweet and firm tex-

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Above and right: Offerings from Silo include sunflower seed ice cream and chargrilled cauliflower, all generating zero waste Below: Massimo Bottura, the chef patron of Osteria Francescana and an advocate of slow food

PHOTO: XAVIER D. BUENDIA

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ture a bit like crayfish, and the taste is somewhere between shrimps and crayfish. Who doesn’t love that?” says Ellitsgaard, who hopes that by encouraging people to eat a more diverse and selective range of seafood, we can help stop the overfishing of our oceans.

If Under is a restaurant aiming to influence our attitude towards the sea, Silo is one that’s dedicated to changing our relationship with the land. The zero-waste concept in Brighton, UK, puts leftovers straight into an on-site composter, which can generate up to 60kg of compost in 24 hours. The compost goes directly back to local farmers, while high-quality local ingredients are delivered to the restaurant in reusable crates. To minimise further waste, Silo mills its own flour, churns its own butter and supports a nose-to-tail dining philosophy. Even the furniture and décor is recycled, while plates and bowls are made out of melted down plastic bags.

Silo’s chef and founder Douglas McMaster explains: “Silo was conceived from a desire to innovate the food industry whilst demonstrating respect.

Respect for the environment, respect for the way our food is generated and respect for the nourishment given to our bodies. This means we create everything from its whole form, cutting out food miles and over-processing, while pre-

serving nutrients and the integrity of the ingredients in the process.”

Thanks to chefs like McMaster, the reduction of food waste is becoming an increasingly visible environmental cause. But the point at which the environmental intersects with the social is where Italian chef Massimo Bottura steps in. His three-Michelin star restaurant in Modena, Osteria Francescana, may currently top the World’s 50 Best Restaurants chart, but his latest initiative is nothing if not egalitarian.

Food For Soul is a non-profit organisation that aims to tackle the problem of food waste while also feeding the homeless and most vulnerable in society. Through its Refettorios or community kitchens in Milan, Paris, London and Rio de Janeiro, it uses surplus ingredients, often donated by supermarkets, to create high-quality dishes such as spaghetti carbonara with banana skin ‘bacon’ in an inclusive environment.

But with a cultivated design aesthetic, these are no ordinary soup kitchens, as Bottura explains. “Do we need another soup kitchen? No. But we need a space that changes the perspective of the place where it is located through its incredible, positive message of inclusion. In a world in which they build walls, we break walls and we say ‘welcome, come here’. That’s how we rebuild the dignity of the people.”

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When it comes to rebuilding people’s dignity, there’s an award-winning bakery in New York that helps to do just that while also empowering them to find a firm footing in society. Ovenly in Brooklyn (and now Park Avenue) has an open-hiring policy, which means around 35 per cent of its workforce are either political refugees or the formerly incarcerated. They make up a team that has won plaudits for its sweet and savoury pastries and cookies – from its sugarless cherry cinnamon scones, to its gluten-free pistachio cardamom bread.

Ovenly hits a sweet spot between inventive cooking and social change, as co-founder Erin Patinkin told Forbes. com: “We want to impact the economy of communities where we have stores, because when you give someone a job who might not otherwise get one, you not only change an individual’s life but you also change families and communities.”

Community cohesion and inclusivity is at the heart of another restaurant project that’s making waves Down Under. Orana (which means ‘welcome’ in some Aboriginal languages) in Adelaide, Australia, is the creation of Scottish-born chef Jock Zonfrillo. Delving into his adopted home’s natural larder, the chef applies a modern twist to 60,000-year-old recipes, such as Moreton Bay fig shoots cooked in seawater and ash with pandanis puree.

He set up the Orana Foundation to rediscover more of Australia’s native ingredients and recipes, and to reconnect its indigenous Aboriginal people to

L-R: Ovenly founder Erin Patinkin; a dish from Orana, which aims to re-connect indigenous Aboriginal people to their land

their land by setting up farming and production projects in communities. “The whole purpose of it was to give back more than we take,” says Zonfrillo. “There’s a togetherness, there’s a sense of morale, a sense of pride. Young Aboriginal men and women who have left the community because there are no jobs would love to come back to their own land and recon-

nect with it. But they need something to do while they’re there, and everything that’s connected around food is so close to their culture naturally.”

Zonfrillo was recently awarded the Basque Culinary Prize worth 100,000 Euros for his transformative work with indigenous communities in Australia.

But Orana, like so many other restaurants that wish to enact social or environmental change, would be nowhere without first being great restaurants that serve great food. Nicolai Ellitsgaard sums it up: “I have many ambitions for Under, but the most important is to give each guest a once-in-a-lifetime experience. I want them to be left with a feeling that they will never forget.”

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FACE VALUE HAVE WE LOST OUR LUST FOR LOGOS?

WORDS: CONOR PURCELL

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t first glance, it doesn’t seem like much. A stark, black sans serif font and three words: Burberry London England.

Yet the redesign of the storied Burberry logo has garnered thousands of column inches around the world and divided the brand’s many devotees. The logo’s release was accompanied by a swathe of corporate-speak: “The logo allows the company to crossover into all the categories that are required of a big luxury clothing and accessories brand – something to transcend the company provenance without denying it.”

The brand was the brainchild of the label’s creative director Riccardo Tisci, who hired designer Peter Saville to do the redesign – probably the only superstar graphic designer in the UK (having previously designed visuals for New Order and famous Manchester nightclub, Haçienda). He was apparently only given four weeks to design the new branding. That may or may not be true – the emails between Saville and Tisci were published on Tisci’s Instagram account, and the whole thing was so carefully constructed as to look staged. The whole episode showed that the logo is as important as ever, at least in the minds of the those in charge. For the rest of us? Maybe not so much.

The redesign begged the question: why do brands continue to spend hundreds of thousands of dollars on their logos? What role do they play in consumerism? The modern incarnation can be traced back to 1885 and Franklin Mason Robinson’s Coca-Cola logo.

To this day it remains one of the most recognisable logos in the world; a staging post in the inexorable rise of big businesses attempting to convince us to part with our cash, for their product.

If a golden era can indeed be assigned to logo design it would be in the mid-1950s, with Paul Rand’s iconic brand for IBM. Rand was also hired by Steve Jobs to design the logo for his NeXt computer range, which now lives on as the heart of Mac OS X.

From left: The new design for Burberry England; Peter Saville, who most recently defaced Lacoste’s famed crocodile logo; Ricardo Tisci, Burberry’s newest creative director

Asked by Jobs how many iterations of the logo he could expect, Rand’s response has taken on legendary status for generations of underappreciated designers: “I’ll give you one logo, and you can use it or not, but you will pay me either way.” Rand’s design for IBM signalled a sea-change in logo design.

No longer considered just a signpost for identification purposes, they were considered integral components of businesses branding, a vital part of the so-called marketing mix.

Which brings us back to Burberry.

It’s been a tumultuous few years for the 162-year-old brand. The former CEO Angela Ahrendts left Burberry in 2014 after leading the company to unprecedented success, repositioning it as a leader in luxury e-commerce and overseeing sales of more than $2 billion. Christopher Bailey, the creative powerhouse behind the brand’s revamp, also left last year after 17 years. Bailey was the first designer to live stream his show online and he ensured Burberry was the first label to unveil new looks on social media first.

It’s a heavy crown to wear, which might be why the incoming creative director, Riccardo Tisci (formerly of Givenchy) decided to redesign the brand identity. The last time the brand changed the logo was in 1999, when

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the “s’ was dropped from Burberry’s.

The minimal makeover (say goodbye to Burberry’s equestrian knight on a horse) speaks to a design consciousness that can be seen in many brands these days, not only in fashion.

Everyone from Google to Airbnb to Pinterest have strikingly similar logos: thick sans serif fonts on white backgrounds. According to Andy Harvey, creative director at Moving Brands, a London-based creative agency, generic logos are often seen as reliable. “There is an equal danger that we think brand equals colour/type/logo, but this avoids the world that brands are now thriving in. More established tech brands deliver their personality through their service, their content, their voice, the way they sound and behave.” This is true of fashion brands too. Think of Burberry and the visual association is most probably of a trench coat or their famous check, rather than the logo.

That many of today’s logos look the same reflects the fact that their role has changed. In years gone by they were the coalface of a customer’s interaction

with the brand. These days, customers and potential customers interact with brands in a lot more ways: on social media, through podcasts, via sponsored content and, of course, through their products themselves. In the 1950s,

Burberry was judged solely on the quality of its clothes. Now it’s judged on how well it communicates via social media, how innovative its catwalk shows are and how well its creative director comes across on YouTube. Logos are, while not unimportant, possibly less important than they once were. That being said, a bad redesign can be a costly affair. Says Peter Pek, chief executive of the World Branding Forum, “About eight years ago, Gap had such a huge disaster with changing its logo that it has become a textbook case study of how not to do it.

It was so bad that they were forced to revert to their old one.”

From top: A tulle and silk organza gown takes centre stage in the new three-story home of Burberry, on Rodeo Drive; former CEO of Burberry Angela Ahrendts in the brand’s famous trench (and shielded by the classic check)

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58 From top: The classic Gap logo could not be thwarted by its successor; the IBM logo has endured since the ‘50s

THREE LOGO REDESIGN DISASTERS Kraft

The Gap logo debacle was indeed an example of how not to rebrand, with the howls of derision so fierce that the company reverted to its old logo after only a week. The company attempted to play the whole thing off as a means to incite debate, telling fans “we know this logo created a lot of buzz and we’re thrilled to see passionate debates unfolding!

So much so we’re asking you to share your designs. We love our version, but we’d like to see other ideas. Stay tuned for details in the next few days on this crowd sourcing project.” That project never happened, and less than a week later, a company spokesperson told Bloomberg: “We’ve learned just how much energy there is around our brand, and after much thought, we’ve decided to go back to our iconic blue box logo.”

For all the critics of Burberry’s new design, no one is suggesting they go back to the previous iteration, and indeed, it’s far too early to know if the redesign will be seen as a success or not. And maybe the goal is that when your mind’s eye does think of Burberry, it thinks not of a trench coat, but of all of it: the latest catwalk show, the social media innovation, the print ads, the CEO, the creative head. The logo must

The giant food conglomerate had a pretty good logo: simple, effective, recognisable. That changed in 2009 when it unveiled a redesign.

It was a disaster, starting with the font, Tekton, derided in typography circles as Comic Sans-esque. The new tag line, “Make today delicious,” was as insipid as the graphics and Kraft ended up reverting to the original logo within six months.

Royal Mail

In 2001, Royal Mail unveiled a new identity: Consignia.

The logo was as bad as the name: it could have been attached to an oil company or a hedge fund or any faceless modern corporation. Royal Mail got the message and a year later reverted back to the original name and logo.

Yahoo!

represent everything the brand stands for by representing nothing; it must be a blank sheet upon which we put our idea of the brand. And, if nothing else, redesigning a logo will gain media attention, which drives sales, which reassures the creatives that they made the right decision. Confirmation bias is a powerful thing, even if we do miss the equestrian knight and his trusty steed.

When new CEO Marissa Mayer took over, she was determined to refresh the company’s identity. Visually, that took root in the release of 30 different logos over 30 days before unveiling the final design. The reaction: a collective shrug of the shoulders. It was a slightly different shade of purple, and a slightly different font, and that was it. A bit like Yahoo! It failed to excite almost anyone.

Please drink responsibly

VINTAGE 2009

Rocked WORDS: ROSALIND THOMAS

in the cradle

Timeless Oman has a long connection with fragrance – but its most beguiling scent is found in a surprising place

of scent

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Wadi Bani Khalid, 230 km from Muscat. Its stream maintains a constant flow throughout the year

There’s over 3,000km of coastline that sandwiches Oman between the desert (Rub’ al Khali, ‘The Empty Quarter’), and the Arabian Sea. Its geography affords the mainly Ibadi Muslim Omanis with a buffet of desert plains, mountain peaks and astonishing oases. While modern tourism is fresh, Oman was long ago dubbed the Cradle of Scent, a trade centre distributing what was once more precious than gold: frankincense.

Cities have a smell – any traveller knows that straight-out-of-the-airport sensation, the first inhale of breath from outside an artificial air supply. Coming out of Muscat airport, that smell is undeniably frankincense. But the dry desert heat that bounces off bleached white walls makes every scent in the city radiant, otherworldly. A taxi driver apologises mildly for the lack of colour. Creamy jasmine blossoms are scattered across his dash “for the natural”, he says.

For a first time visitor, the palette seems pure, timeless.

For those who have adopted Oman as their home, such as entrepreneur and essential oil expert Trygve Harris, the city’s languid brightness is addictive. And so is that prized Omani resource, the tears of the boswellia sacra tree that thrive in the incredibly harsh climate of the Dhofar region. Sliced open to bleed out its resin, frankincense has been traded from Oman’s rocky ports since Hatshepsut’s

time. Harris is a scent-obsessed American, owner of Enfleurage in NYC and an expert in exotic oils from oud to sandalwood. She describes the scent of luban, as the locals call it, as having “piney strength softened by sweet green butterfly sparkle and underlying florals.”

Western misconceptions of earthy, pungent, “Arabic” perfumes are swept away by the purity of scent in Oman.

In Muscat’s calm Muttrah Souk, groups of young Omani women with YouTube-worthy winged liner framed by their hijabs negotiate the price of kilo bags of frankincense to burn. Their scent could be bakhoor, or Chloe. But fragrances with a powerful sillage (the trail of perfume left in the wake the wearer), form a force field against the heat, and the warm woosh of bright incense, sweet oud and smoky rose from a crisp white dishdasha or the folds of an abaya becomes an anticipated experience for a tourist, and demonstrates

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Pefumes and scents are a mainstay of Muscat’s souks (markets)

A frankincense tree and its resin (top)

a nose for scent totally surpassing the Western sensibility of clean chemical concoctions or wispy florals.

Against the vast, almost alien backdrop of rock, sand, clear sky, and calm seas, Omani-selected scents are like bursts of olfactory colour. Anything less just flies off the skin.

At Amouage, the luxury perfume house that originated in the Sultanate, a tour guide confirms that Omani preference. ‘Epic’ is the most popular local seller, and true to its name, its huge, with notes like a roll call of the silk road: pink pepper, cardamom, saffron and nutmeg.

Myrrh of course and the legendary frankincense, oud and patchouli and leather.

The spices make their way into everything on an Omani menu, from cardamom-spiked coffee to rich ginger-spiked dates, technicolour lime juice to enliven and thick black halva laced with saffron and rose. But how do you grow a rose in the desert?

Leaving Muscat to drive up the surreal pass to Jabal Akhdar (self-drive is super easy in Oman), the temperature drops slowly but surely from burn-toa-crisp to pleasantly warm. Gazebos sit in little clusters at each staggering view, and local sellers recline behind trays laden with fat pomegranates.

The landscape morphs from white to golden and deep aubergine, rock twisted over time like candy. It’s a constant monolithic reminder of the tiny tenure of humans and the donkeys don’t help, nor do the plethora of fossilised fish that confirm that this stone, now elevated to over 2000m, was once under the sea.

It’s popular to tour abandoned villages and it’s here you’ll see the ancient Aflaj irrigation systems that allow shady walnut trees and pomegranates and fragrant damask roses to blossom along the terraced cliffs. Come April, the Green Mountain turns pink as the roses bloom and local families work day and night to pick the petals pre-dawn, and distill

them into the golden smoky rosewater famous in the mountains. Heated in traditional clay ovens, the petals are pressured into releasing their liquid without any additional water, and the result is a typically Omani intensity.

It all feels ancient, but Tariq Alriyami, a composed guide from Alila Jabal Akhdar resort, has a sparkle in his eye as he reminisces about his own childhood herding goats and picking pomegranates here. Rosewater is no livelihood, but the importance of tradition is always front of mind in Oman.

The balance between old and new, it seems, is a carefully practiced art.

Back down the mountain again, the luxurious Shangri-La Al Husn Resort is just minutes from Muscat but boasts views of sea and stone interrupted by nothing except the occasional turtle-seeking pleasure craft (they’re handy to give a sense of scale, really).

It’s an ideal base for a last stop and must see in Oman: paradise.

The heron that flies lazily over the scene at Wadi Shab is yet another cast member in the unreality campaign the country seems to have nailed. A frog hops under a ledge in the worn-smooth limestone and little iridescent dragonflies hide amongst the stalks of the bulrushes that surround a pool of impossibly pure, turquoise-tinted water.

It sparkles in a surreal fashion and the appearance of a water nymph wandering down the trickling stream that connects the string of pools would not surprise at this point. The scent in the air is aquatic, mineral, almost futuristic in its purity. All that’s to be done is float away.

TAKE A STROLL AROUND THE CITY

Life began to take shape in Dubai by the 18th Century. Now, modern and ancient neighbourhoods alike serve to parcel up the city – each with their own distinct flair.

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t was the year 1799, and the first settlers of Dubai were worried. In the 18th Century, neighbourhoods were less inclusive hubs of creativity, and more places to be vigorously defended. So came the Wall of Old Dubai, a coral stone and gypsum 600-metre line of defence against warring tribes, smugglers and anyone who crossed the Arabian Gulf into the bay.

Fast forward to the present day, and any aggression meted out in the city is only to the bicycles in Krank, the latest spin class in Alserkal Avenue.

Ancient burjeels, the wind towers dotted around old Dubai and parts of Sharjah have been replaced with fantastical creations from Calatrava and other architects determined to carve out a piece of the skyline for themselves.

Markets selling Persian slippers have been traded in for Sole DXB, Dubai’s sneaker festival hosted by purpose-built design district d3, where rare brands can easily trade hands for US$600.

The bright white sand dunes of years past have been replaced by whole rainforests contained within a climate-controlled biodome, as seen in Citywalk’s Green Planet. Some of these districts are purpose built; others have sprung up organically. All are intriguing, and testament to the city that – alongside a

respect and honour for its first inhabitants – is so optimistic when it comes to the new, the trendy, the artistic. After all, what better way to drive a city onward?

AL FAHIDI To appreciate a city in its present iteration, one must look to its past. Nowhere is this past better represented than in the Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, where one can step back in time. Abdulla Al Serkal is one of the original families of the area, and founder of the Sheikh Mohammed Centre of Cultural Understanding, a vital point of call in the area.

“I was brought up in my grandfather’s house, who was born in 1914, so I was lucky enough to have my teenage days in the mid-70s,” he says. “I’ve seen Dubai when it used to be white sand dunes, far different from the orange sands of the desert – after school, we would play barefoot in the sand. But I saw it all disappear with the construction.”

Inside Al Fahidi’s houses – constructed from coral stone from the creek or thatched with palm leaves – families lived in a multi-generational structure.

“The house had seven different families in one house. You don’t see this anymore. We would have people from Oman, Bedouins coming with their weapons, which to them were like Parker pens,” he says. “When I first travelled to the UK, it made me realise that the UAE deserves a programme, a centre that makes the millions of different people living here, they deserve their questions being answered.

They need to know about us.”

The Centre is a good jumping off point for other areas of interest, such as the Dubai Coffee Museum, where you can taste the famous Ethiopian salted brew (an acquired taste, and accompanied with popcorn), wonder at artifacts that prove human existence in the area dates back to the Iron Age, and take an abra (a small boat) across to the souks to barter for cashmere or spices.

From L-R: The old wind towers of Al Fahidi; the district today

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ALSERKAL AVENUE Watching neo-noir Italian arthouse on leather sofas does not exactly encapsulate a typical idea of Dubai. Neither does an architectural biennale, where small-scale designers theorise on how to subvert the current cityscape. Or a chocolate factory, founded by two secre-

tive locals and responsible for the sweet, rich aroma that perfumes the alleyways.

This is Alserkal Avenue, the arts district that has quietly put itself on the map as a true cultural hub in Dubai.

Around Al Quoz, an industrial district best known for its garages, the view is vaguely uninspiring. But tucked away on 8th street are shipping containers and garages that have been refreshed to provide some artistic and intellectual stimulation.

“Al Quoz has many art galleries, both contemporary and modern, that are enjoyable even for the amateur eyes,” says Nada Badran, the brains behind Wander with Nada, a tour of the parts of Dubai off the beaten track. “There are some nice cafes to work in, residency programmes, and concept stores. Mirzam chocolate factory is a cute concept, showing the behind the scenes action and offering traditional Emirati flavors, but Cinema Akil is my new favorite part of Al Quoz. They play great movies from all over the world, very similar to the Dubai Film Festival but on a much smaller scale and year round basis.”

New artistic districts such as d3 (top), or Alserkal are embracing contemporary creatives in the city

Add in gig venue the Fridge for experimental music, a smattering of vegan offerings and Crank – a high-tech spin studio with a cult following to rival Soul Cycle – and you have a modern offering that is still distinctly Dubai.

D3 When even wandering through Dubai Design District’s carpark is an artistic experience, you know that careful thought has been put into this community. Arising out of an oceanic apocalypse courtesy of graffiti artist Myneandyours, one surfaces into an light-filled space known as d3, chock-full of bespoke boutiques, international jewellery brands and financial powerhouses.

As a purpose-built freezone, d3 was built with careful consultation with the design community and “designed to be

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a creative space,” says Badran. “Today there are many office high rises, art galleries, quirky shops and restaurants.”

She advises to go when a major event is on and the area is busiest – (12-17 November) and sneaker-fest Sole DXB (6-8 December) are some of the best.

For shopping, there are a plethora of independent brands worth checking out. Amato was founded by designer Furne One and textile expert Rashid Ali, and is the UAE’s first global couture fashion brand to gain an international cult following. For unisex fashion, Closet Case is Dubai’s first concept store stocking exclusive Asian and European designers, ranging from the minimal dark aesthetic of Rick Owens to the inventive silhouettes of Yohji Yamamoto.

For food and drink, Akiba Dori is a unique find: a foodhall-style indoor alleyway inspired by Akihabara, Tokyo.

Game in the arcade and then head to the pizzeria for a Tokyo-Neapolitan offering. In perfect paradox to the bustle of the creative hub lies Ras al Khor sanctuary, just a few minutes taxi ride from d3. Hundreds of flamingos live amid the marshland and can be watched from viewing areas. The perfect tranquil escape to a busy city.

From top: Al Fahidi at night; the kitschy stylings of La Mer, Dubai’s newest waterfront hub

AL SEEF “Can you imagine if they built glass skyscrapers next to Al Fahidi? It wouldn’t work,” says Al Serkal of the new purposebuilt destination, Al Seef. “They wanted

to enhance that feel of Old Dubai, because this is the area that was saved by Sheikh Maktoum to keep it for the next generations.”

The final feeling of this purpose-built district is of a bustling waterfront destination, which nods to the history and heritage of the district that sits just adjacent to it on the creek – but provides its own modern flair. The new offering on the 1.8km promenade includes innovative retail and dining brands that

74 Street art can be seen in almost all of the newer districts around the city

contribute to the lively atmosphere of the location, as well as small-scale hotels that are chic and accessibly-priced.

The architecture is inspired by Dubai’s transformation from a fishing village into a modern cosmopolitan city, and the district has kept distinctly Arabic touches such as the sikkas, the narrow pathways used in old neighbourhoods.

They are filled with shops, cafes, restaurants, hotels and entertainment experiences that intend to link the authentic heritage of the area with stylish contemporary touches.

Food in the area also nods to an Arabic heritage. Egyptian cooking is offered in a pharaoh-inspired setting inside KHOFO, whilst Al Fanar Restaurant and Cafthat looks to recreate 60s Dubai with their authentic Emirati cuisine.

New additions to Al Seef’s retail landscape include Caliente, an Emirati brand specialising in high-end trucker caps and Jawhara for diamonds and gemstones, or Sneakers Paris for trendy footwear. The area has also become host to the Museum of Illusions, which contains 80 Escher-esque exhibits designed to play tricks on the human brain.

LA MER A nautical offering from the same developer behind Al Seef, La Mer evokes a feeling of Coney Island, with its vivid carnival-esque atmosphere.

Spread out over 13.4 million square feet of existing and reclaimed land between Pearl Jumeira and Jumeira Bay, the district has over 130 shops, cafés, and restaurants, as well as watersports such as wake or flyboarding. Although new, the area is already a bustling tourist hotspot.

Meraas has thought outside the box in the district’s creation, installing the unique ‘Hawa Hawa’, a new inflatable playground concept first created and installed in public parks in Japan.

Surrounded by kilometres of sandy beaches, La Mer is a stone’s throw away from points of interest that include the

Etihad Museum, which tells the tale of the founding of the UAE and Dubai Water Canal, where visitors can hire bikes to cycle along the canal.

It is an embodiment of the way that the city’s old and new attractions are starting to meld together into one cohesive experience.

“Many think that Dubai is a ‘new’ entity which seems to have emerged overnight, which is far from the truth,”

concludes Badran. “The city has been built brick by brick over many years, and has undergone various transformations resulting in its current urban form.

“The old part of Dubai tells an important part of the city’s dynamic history, and the new part offers a wide array of sights suited for all types of visitors.

From my eyes, a complete visit to the city is a must – to capture its magic in districts both old and new.”

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8 billion opportunities to make a difference WORDS: MAHA AL GARGAWI, DIRECTOR – INTERNATIONAL PARTICIPANTS, EXPO 2020 DUBAI

Global challenges can sometimes feel so far removed from our everyday lives that we feel incapable of making a difference as individuals, but this is simply not the case.

At Expo 2020 Dubai, we aim to show visitors how each seemingly small action can contribute to global change on a massive scale.

Expo 2020’s Opportunity Pavilion offers the ideal environment in which to realise this ambition. The striking structure will enable visitors to explore the global development agenda by taking them on an engaging and interactive journey, transforming millions of people from around the world into individual forces for change.

While there are no simple solutions to problems such as poverty, hunger, disease, inequality and our impact on the environment, we have the power to overcome any obstacle by working together. The global population is on course to pass 8 billion people by 2030, which means we have 8 billion opportunities to make a difference.

Collectively, we have the chance to achieve simple but meaningful goals that benefit communities in every corner of the planet, ensuring a basic quality of life for all.

However, this will only be possible if everyone plays their part.

The Opportunity Pavilion has been designed to bring together people of all ages and backgrounds to tackle global challenges head on. Fully built from organic, recyclable materials – there is no cement – the structure features a spiral-shaped canopy made

from 111 kilometres of woven rope, symbolising the essential role of collaboration in achieving our common goals.

By taking part in decision-making and gaming activities that highlight the cumulative impact of individual actions, visitors to the pavilion will have the chance to make tangible contributions to global development goals. The experience will place each person at the centre of this collective effort, demonstrating how equal access to basic amenities such as clean water, food, education, healthcare and jobs can create environments in which we all thrive.

Through Expo 2020 Dubai, the UAE has an opportunity to support and accelerate human progress on an international scale.

Those who visit the Opportunity Pavilion will play an active role in this journey.

Regardless of who we are or where we are from, we all have the ability to make small but impactful improvements to our personal choices and actions, which means we are all in a position to help create a brighter tomorrow. The next World Expo will harness this collective power, showing millions of people the true meaning of opportunity.

Expo 2020’s Opportunity Pavilion aims to generate tangible, collaborative change

For more, check out the Expo 2020 podcast on ice channel 1901.

78 / THE YEAR OF ZAYED

How best to integrate the new world, whilst also respecting past traditions?

Blending heritage with modernity WORDS: ZAYED: LIFE OF A GREAT LEADER / BOOKSARABIA.COM Sheikh Zayed was a man on a mission when he became the Ruler of Abu Dhabi in 1966.

He was determined to make up for lost time and embrace the modern world—not for its own sake but for what it would mean for his people. At the time, Abu Dhabi had no running water, no paved roads, no central markets and no airport. He saw the need for change as urgent.

Nevertheless, he was also strongly in favour of respecting the heritage and traditions handed down by previous generations.

‘He who does not know his past cannot make the best of his present and future, for it is from the past that we learn,’ is one of his best-known quotations.

Another adds emphasis to his own respect for tradition, ‘A nation without a past is a nation without a present or a future.

Thanks to God, our nation has a flourishing civilisation, deep-rooted in this land for many centuries. These roots will always flourish and bloom in the glorious present of our nation and in its anticipated future.’

He had to achieve a delicate balance between moving his people forward and retaining their culture. One example is the dishdasha. Today it is the ubiquitous form of dress for Emirati men, young and old alike, but back in the 1970s a lot of young Emirati men wore Western-style shirts and trousers.

Sheikh Zayed urged the men to keep the dishdasha, saying everybody should wear it with pride as an expression of their Emirati and Arab identity.

Other examples of his respect for tradition include his intervention to ensure that mosques were conveniently placed throughout the expanding city of Abu Dhabi, and his requirement that all public and private buildings should retain an Arabic and Islamic character. He even arranged for different tribes to be housed close to one another in the new city to promote integration.

His influence can be seen today in the proliferation of heritage villages that demonstrate how previous generations lived, their homes, arts, crafts, and industries such as pearl-diving and fishing. In sport, too, the technology and glamour of Formula 1 at Abu Dhabi’s spectacular, world-class Yas Marina Circuit exists alongside traditional activities like falconry, camel racing and dhow racing.

Although English is widely spoken in the UAE, Arabic has remained the national language, and traditional dancing is a fixture at Emirati weddings and other major events.

Sheikh Zayed’s emphasis on family values and Islamic beliefs lie at the core of the Emirati society, which is undoubtedly a major factor in the social cohesion of the country while it undergoes rapid transformation. He saw the national culture and identity as a source of inspiration and pride for the people.

WORDS TO LIVE BY “The new generation should be aware of the suffering of their ancestors. This awareness will provide them with drive, firmness and solidity in order to complete the epic construction and development initiated by our fathers and ancestors. This odyssey of accomplishments and contributions is an embodiment of our national ambitions after decades of disarray, backwardness and deprivation.”

A total of 10 Emirates aircraft carry the special Year of Zayed livery for 2018, commemorating the centennial of the birth of the UAE’s founding father.

Emirates NEWS

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INSIDE EMIRATES

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DESTINATION

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UAE SMART GATE

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ROUTE MAP

1,000 movies now on ice Emirates’ award-winning inflight entertainment system, ice, reaches a new milestone by offering over 1,000 movies – more than any other airline. p.82

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FLEET

82 / EMIRATES / NEWS

Emirates thrills film buffs with over 1,000 movies on board

Film fans travelling on Emirates can now look forward to even more choice as ice, Emirates’ award-winning inflight entertainment system, reaches a new milestone by offering over 1,000 movies – more than any other airline. The films are in addition to TV box sets and music giving customers up to 3,500+ channels of on demand entertainment.

The expanded film catalogue offers over 2,000 hours of entertainment that would take 119 trips on the world’s longest A380 flight from Dubai to Auckland to get through.

It is available on over 80 aircraft and includes more than 500 Hollywood hits and 600 world movies to cater to Emirates’ diverse and global customer base. Emirates buys content from every major movie market worldwide and offers films in 44 languages.

“Travelling on Emirates has always been centred on an unmatched customer experience. We’re proud to offer the greatest entertainment choice ever seen in the sky, with probably more choices than most people have at home,” said Patrick Brannelly, Emirates’ Divisional Vice President, Customer Experience (IFEC).

Each month over 100 movies are added to the system with selections ranging from all-time classics like 1939’s The Wizard of Oz and Gone with the Wind to 2018 blockbusters Jurassic World: Fallen Kingdom and Ocean’s 8. ice also offers over 25 feature length documentaries – the most popular on board at the moment include Eric Clapton: Life in 12 Bars and The Final Year, about Barack Obama’s last year in office.

DID YOU KNOW?

• It takes 83 hours and 42 minutes to watch all 50 Disney movies on ice – it takes less time to fly Emirates from Dubai to all six Disney resorts • Lawrence of Arabia is the longest movie on board, running for 3 hours 47 minutes • At 1 hour 4 mins, Disney classic Dumbo is the shortest movie on ice and can be completed on the world’s shortest A380 flight from Dubai to Kuwait

EMIRATES / NEWS / 83

Emirates First Class products available now in-store

EMIRATES SKYCARGO MARKS TWO YEARS OF OSLO OPERATIONS Facilitating the transport of key exports and trade goods to the region, including salmon, pharmaceuticals and machinery – Emirates SkyCargo has completed two years of operating its Boeing 777 freighter aircraft to Oslo.

The air cargo carrier operates a weekly freighter service to the Norwegian capital, offering close to 100 tonnes of cargo capacity per flight. In addition to its weekly freighter service, Emirates SkyCargo also transports cargo on its daily passenger services.

Norway is one of the world’s largest exporters of seafood and exports of Norwegian salmon were valued at around US$4bn for the first six months of 2018. Over the last two years, Emirates SkyCargo has helped transport close to 35,000 tonnes of Norwegian salmon from Oslo to a number of important export markets in the Middle East and East Asia.

Through Emirates Fresh, the carrier’s portfolio of transportation solutions for perishables, seafood exports arriving

on the freighter from Oslo are rapidly transported through an unbroken cool chain at Emirates SkyCargo’s Dubai hub onto further flights on passenger and freighter aircraft, ensuring that the Norwegian salmon retain their freshness and reach their destinations in the quickest possible time.

On over 100 scheduled freighter flights since October 2016, large items including aircraft engines, ship propellers weighing more than 10 tonnes apiece and other outsized spare parts for the marine industry have also been carried by the carrier’s Boeing 777 freighter aircraft to and from Oslo.

In December 2017, Emirates SkyCargo’s freighter aircraft also carried thoroughbred horses from Oslo to Dubai for the Dubai racing season.

EMIRATES GROUP SECURITY AND IATA COLLABORATE ON AVIATION SECURITY TRAINING

Emirates Group Security has been appointed as a ‘Regional Training Partner’ for the International Air Transport Association (IATA) to deliver courses in aviation security and related subjects. The agreement was signed

by Dr Abdullah Al Hashimi, Divisional Senior Vice President, Emirates Group Security and Matthew Vaughan, Director, Aviation Security, IATA,

in Dubai. Starting September 2018, Emirates Group Security will initially offer two courses on Aviation Security Management and Security Management Systems.

“The courses offered jointly by Emirates Group Security and IATA will showcase the high quality of industry relevant content specifically tailor-made for professionals working in the aviation security industry,” said Al Hashimi.

Vaughan added that, with the Middle East poised to grow by 4.3 per cent per year to become a market of 430 million passengers by 2020, “forging strategic regional training partnerships is key to developing the skills and knowledge that will be critical to support this rapid growth.”

Customers can now purchase select Emirates First Class amenities available at the Emirates Official Store.

Customers can now shop for some of the airline’s most premium amenities and experience First Class comfort at home. Products available to purchase include the Bowers & Wilkins PX headphones with 22 hours of battery life, and three noise cancellation modes, hydraactive sleepwear pyjamas, which are designed to prevent skin dehydration, and a sleeved blanket that also doubles as a travel pillow.

Available in all Emirates Official Stores and at www.emirates.store.

84 / INSIDE EMIRATES

An elevated palate Hungry? You will be after watching Emirates’ new Food and Wine channels on ice – which give flyers a sneak peek at how Emirates sources and creates the finest menus in the air THE FOOD STORY

Emirates has launched its own Food Channel on ice to give customers a behind-the-scenes look at how it creates its onboard menus and works with its global partners. Behind its 110 million meals a year is a careful process that sees Emirates change its onboard menus monthly to celebrate regionality, long partnerships with producers and special events – everything from Eid to Oktoberfest.

23,000 Cabin crew who served

US$1bn Catering investment in 2017

209 Meals served per minute

1,200 Chefs

1,500 Menus

590 Flights catered per day

In 2017, flyers consumed: • 100m meals • 3m eggs • 70 tonnes of strawberries • 58m baked bread rolls • 110,000kg of hummus • 165 tonnes of salmon fillet

12,450 Recipes

Global Partners Country

Australia

Italy

Sri Lanka

UAE

Product

Monte Vibiano Olive Oil 4m single serve bottles

Dilmah

Bateel

Qty. (per Year)

Yarra Valley Persian Feta 15,120kg of feta

9.6m tea bags

315,000 dates

Relationship

10+ years

15+ years

25+ years

14 years

INSIDE EMIRATES / 85

THE WINE STORY

At the heart of Emirates’ wine strategy is its unique approach to purchasing exceptional wines en primeur, years before they are released to the market, and then allowing these vintages to mature and reach their potential before serving on board.

Emirates’ own team of wine connoisseurs has built direct relationships with some of the world’s most prestigious vineyards to handpick and secure the most exclusive and rare wines for its customers. Its carefully curated wine selection and its wine strategy are all documented on the new Wine Channel on ice.

IN FIRST AND BUSINESS CLASS… 58% OF RED WINE CONSUMED IS FROM BORDEAUX, FRANCE OUR WINE CELLAR IN BURGUNDY, FRANCE STORES 7 MILLION BOTTLES, OF WHICH SOME WILL ONLY BE READY TO DRINK BY 2035 OVER 200 WINES ARE OFFERED ANNUALLY

US$700m Invested in wine since 2006

5.5 million bottles of champagne and wine were consumed by Emirates customers on board in 2017

US$100m Amount of wines and champagne purchased in France last year

80 Kinds of champagne, wine and port offered daily across our network

EMIRATES SOURCES FROM 12 COUNTRIES In the main wine producing regions of the world

• Argentina • Australia • Austria • Chile • France • Germany

• Italy • New Zealand • Portugal • South Africa • Spain • USA

86 / EMIRATES / DESTINATION

Accra, Ghana

The humming city with a penchant for politeness

Why Accra? After all, the Ghanaian capital is constantly snarled with traffic, humidity, and the constant clamor of everything from roosters to the blaring stereos of tro tros, the private minibuses that throng the streets.

Yet the city has an undeniable hold on its 2.3 million inhabitants. Ghana became the first sub-Saharan African colony to gain independence in 1957, and ever since has seen swathes of young African entrepreneurs and creators flocking to the capital to find their fortune.

Their efforts can be seen around the city, from mixed-discipline gallery La Maison to folk art at Wild Gecko or Kane Kwei Carpentry. At night, the city has a reputation for its buzzing dance scene. Head to Carbon Nightclub for a reputable London transplant, or Republic in Osu for locally-grown ingredients.

As well as a thriving creative hub the city has a plethora of historical sites, often with tragic backstories. As the last port of call during the slave trade, the myriad castles and forts dotted along the coastline were the last views many had of their homeland before being put on ships to cross the Atlantic.

The sites now serve as respectful reminders of this dark period, with other architecture, such as the mid-century Independence Square, also speaking to the city’s complex history. “Accra stay by plan” is a popular expression that encapsulates the capital’s constant movement – that the city will keep going with or without you, so you’d better get on board.

Emirates has operated a daily Boeing 777 service to Accra since 2004. Last month, a special oneoff Emirates A380 service made a historic touch down at Kotoka International Airport’s new terminal.

The special flight was operated by Accra-born Ghanaian, Captain Solomon Quainoo and UAE national, First Officer Faisal Alhammadi.

EMIRATES / DESTINATION / 87

SANTOKU

MÖVENPICK

BISTRO 22

One of the finest establishments in the city, Santoku is Japanese dining in a truly contemporary setting.

Hubert de Givenchy attended to the interiors, whilst chefs from the iconic Nobu in London were flown in to assist with the menu’s creation, which includes pan-fried scallops and slow-cooked beef. santoku-restaurant.com

Looking for a Sunday brunch? Head to Independence Avenue and the Mövenpick, which every Sunday hosts brunch at its in-house Sankofa Restaurant.

There’s live cooking, a swinging house band and unusual options such as beetroot salmon with chocolate or green tea seabass. movenpick.com/en/ africa/Ghana

Head to this contemporary spot in the Labone district for a reassuring mix of continental favourites – the restaurant is known for its gourmet burgers and classics such as lobster pasta – as well as local delicacies, like shrimps in ginger butter. Al fresco dining is via a charming outdoor terrace. bistro-22.com

A FOOTBALL GAME

ACCRA’S ARTISTS ALLIANCE GALLERY

KWAME NKRUMAH MEMORIAL PARK

A seminal figure on the West African art scene, Ablade Glover paints vivid canvases awash with the colour of Accra. He has since created a space that celebrates artists of the region, the resulting space a treasure trove of antique Asafo flags, kente cloth and fantastical sculpture. artistsalliancegallery.com

One of the most iconic sites of Accra, head to five acres of landscaped gardens for some peace in the midst of the chaos.

Dedicated to Ghana’s first president Kwame Nkrumah, a mausoleum holds his remains and is accompanied by a museum dedicated to the life of Ghana’s founding father.

ACCRA MARRIOTT HOTEL

KEMPINSKI HOTEL GOLD COAST CITY

TANG PALACE HOTEL

For ease of access to the airport look no further than the Marriott, which opened this year in the urban development, Airport City. Not that you’d know it from the green surroundings, pool and three dining venues – all designed so that the business traveller might feel as if they are on vacation. marriott.com/Accra

Close to the city’s National Theatre, as well as an international conference centre and the beach, Kempinski has 269 luxury rooms that it claims are the largest of any hotel in Accra. With an infinity pool and some traditional stylings, this offering will appeal to most travellers. kempinski.com/accra

Similarly situated as the Marriott, this Chinese-inspired hotel offers ease of access to the airport, which is just 3km away, as well as details to ensure a truly memorable stay – everything from bouquets of freshly-cut orchids, to the lavish chandeliers and the attentive staff. tangpalacehotel.com

Michael Essien, Sulley Muntari, Abedi Pele.

Some of the best footballers in the world have come from Ghana, and connoisseurs of the game must take in a local match, preferably between rivals Kumasi Asante Kotoko and Accra Hearts of Oak, to take in the atmosphere generated by some truly dedicated fans.

88 / EMIRATES / UAE SMART GUIDE

Be smart!

NATIONALITIES THAT CAN USE UAE SMART GATES

Use UAE Smart Gate at Dubai International Airport Citizens of the countries listed on the right and UAE residents can speed through Dubai International by using UAE Smart Gate.

If you hold a machine-readable passport, an E-Gate card or Emirates ID card you can check

in and out of the airport within seconds.

Just look out for signs that will direct you to the many UAE Smart Gates found on either side of the Immigration Hall at Dubai International Airport.

USING UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

1

Have your machine-readable passport, E-Gate card or Emirates ID card ready to be scanned.

2

Place your passport photo page on the scanner. If you are a UAE resident, place your E-Gate card or Emirates ID card into the card slot.

3

Go through the open gate, stand on the blue footprint guide on the floor, face the camera straight-on and stand still for your iris scan. When finished, the next set of gates will open and you can continue to baggage claim.

REGISTERING FOR UAE SMART GATE IS EASY

To register for Smart Gate access, just spend a few moments having your details validated by an immigration officer and that’s it. Every time you fly to Dubai in future, you will be out of the airport and on your way just minutes after you have landed.

IF YOU’RE A UAE RESIDENT

Remember to bring your Emirates ID card next time you’re travelling through DXB – you’ll be able to speed through passport control in a matter of seconds, without paying and without registering. Valid at all Smart Gates, located in Arrivals and Departures, across all three terminals at DXB.

*UK citizens only (UK overseas citizens still require a visa)

UAE SMART GATE CAN BE USED BY: • Machine-readable passports from the above countries • E-Gate cards • Emirates ID cards

90 / EMIRATES / ROUTE MAP

A380 ROUTES

Routes shown are as of time of going to press

*Suspended

**Seasonal service

GLOBAL ROUTES

Emirates Amsterdam / Auckland / Bangkok / Barcelona / Beijing / Birmingham / Brisbane / Casablanca / Christchurch / Copenhagen / Dusseldorf / Frankfurt / Guangzhou / Hamburg / Hong Kong / Houston / Jeddah / Johannesburg / Kuala Lumpur / Kuwait / London / Los Angeles / Madrid / Manchester / Mauritius / Melbourne / Milan / Moscow / Mumbai / Munich / New York / Nice / Osaka / Paris / Perth / Prague / Rome / San Francisco / SĂŁo Paulo / Seoul / Shanghai / Singapore / Sydney / Taipei / Tokyo / Toronto / Vienna / Washington, DC / Zurich

Emirates route

flydubai route

TRAVEL TO ADDITIONAL DESTINATIONS WITH OUR CODESHARE PARTNERS

With 23 codeshare partners in 26 countries (21 airlines and an air/rail codeshare arrangement with France’s SNCF/TGV Air and Italy’s Trenitalia), Emirates has even more flight options, effectively expanding its network by over 300 destinations.

Visit emirates.com for full details on our travel partners

EMIRATES / ROUTE MAP / 91

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**Seasonal service

92 / EMIRATES / ROUTE MAP

MIDDLE EAST

Emirates route

AFRICA flydubai route

EMIRATES / ROUTE MAP / 93

ASIA & PACIFIC

EUROPE & CENTRAL ASIA

**seasonal service

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AMERICAS

Routes shown are as of time of going to press

EMIRATES SKYCARGO

Freighter destinations

96 / EMIRATES / FLEET

Emirates Fleet

Our fleet of 272 aircraft includes 259 passenger aircraft and 13 SkyCargo aircraft

AIRBUS A380-800

This month:

1 arriving

107 IN FLEET All aircraft

up to 3,500+

Up to 489-615 passengers. Range: 15,000km. L 72.7m x W 79.8m

20+ aircraft

BOEING 777-300ER

139 IN FLEET

This month:

1 arriving

All aircraft up to 3,500+

Up to 354-428 passengers. Range: 14,594km. L 73.9m x W 64.8m 100+ aircraft

For more information: emirates.com/ourfleet

BOEING 777-200LR

10 IN FLEET All aircraft

3,000+

Up to 266-302 passengers. Range: 17,446km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

EMIRATES / FLEET / 97 HERE’S WHAT CONNECTIVITY, ENTERTAINMENT AND SERVICES ARE AVAILABLE ON BOARD EACH AIRCRAFT TYPE

Live TV, news & sport

Wi-Fi

Mobile phone

Data roaming

Number of channels

First Class Shower Spa

*Onboard lounge

**In-seat power

USB port

In-seat telephone

* First Class and Business Class; **Available in all rows in Economy Class, and in all seats in First Class and Business Class

BOEING 777-300 2 IN FLEET All aircraft

1,900+

Up to 364 passengers. Range: 11,029km. L 73.9m x W 60.9m

AIRBUS A319 1 IN FLEET

2,000+

The Emirates Executive Private Jet takes our exceptional service to the highest level to fly you personally around the world. Fly up to 19 guests in the utmost comfort of our customised A319 aircraft with the flexibility of private jet travel.

Further information at emirates-executive.com

EMIRATES SKYCARGO

BOEING 777F 13 IN FLEET

Range: 9,260km. L 63.7m x W 64.8m

The most environmentally-friendly freighter operated today, with the lowest fuel burn of any comparably-sized cargo aircraft. Along with its wide main-deck cargo door, which can accommodate oversized consignments, it is also capable of carrying up to 103 tonnes of cargo non-stop on 10-hour sector lengths.

Aircraft numbers accurate at the time of going to press

Up to 19 passengers. Range: 7,000km. L 33.84m x W 34.1m

AVI ARAD’S

GUIDE TO NEW YORK The producer of Marvel’s Venom talks eating like a local, and New York’s secret gardens WORDS: EMMA COILER

New York has been incredibly important to The Marvel universe – more so than any other city.

There are the places that everybody knows, like The Flatiron Building being The Daily Bugle, The X Men showdown on Ellis Island, but hopefully it encourages the tourist to visit areas like Hell’s Kitchen where Dare Devil is from. It didn’t have a great reputation for so many years – but it’s now one of the coolest areas of the city, with some of the best restaurants.

Joe’s Pizza in Greenwich Village is pretty much the best pizza you are going to get in the city. Let that sink in – New York is the pizza capital of the world – and Joe’s is the best pizza you are going to get in the best city for pizza in the world. If while you’re there you think it looks familiar, it’s because that’s where Peter Parker worked in Spiderman 2. The bar in Dare Devil, which is called Hell’s Kitchen in the show, is actually Turkey’s Nest Tavern in Brooklyn and is one of the city’s best dive bars.

NEW YORK, USA

40.7128° N, 74.0060° W

I think most tourists who visit New York will visit The Rockefeller Center, but they will overlook one of the best bits of the building, which are the beautiful rooftop gardens. Some of it is private space, but parts are open to the public. It’s where Spiderman dropped Mary Jane after a fight with the Green Goblin.

My favourite venue in New York that has been featured in the Marvel universe is undoubtedly Grand Central Station, one of the most iconic buildings in the city. It’s extra special for me – when I walk through it, I can’t help thinking of that epic Avengers battle.

Greenwich Village has recently started being used in our movies again – it has some great parks, great shopping, and some really nice places to eat. It also hosts the headquarters of Doctor Strange, which is on Bleeker if you want to go and check it out. Bleeker is now pretty much a Greenwich Village nightclub district, if partying is your thing.

Emirates operates five daily services to the New York metropolitan area, with three flights daily to New York JFK and two daily services to Newark.