Supper - Issue 27

HOTEL FOOD & DRINK

FAIRMONT WINDSOR PARK • JEAN-GEORGES VONGERICHTEN • PUBLIC – NEW YORK

CreativeCocktails

SPECIALTY ICE

CONTENTS ISSUE 27 098

046

STARTERS The Maybourne Bar

046

Isa

048

Cabra

050

The Maybourne Los Angeles

Four Seasons Hotel Madrid

The Hoxton Los Angeles

067

MAIN COURSES 052

Xenodocheio Milos

058

The Aubrey

063

Public

067

St Pancras Renaissance London

Athens

Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park London

New York

© Liz Clayman

Booking Office 1869

003

CONTENTS ISSUE 27 SERVICE

063

Chef’s Table

030

In Search of Perfection

032

California Dreaming

038

Spanish Spirit

044

Acclaimed British chef Simon Rogan shares a snapshot of his life in food.

French culinary powerhouse Jean-Georges Vongerichten is expanding his global empire with new openings in Marrakesh and Nashville.

US chef, author and restaurateur Nancy Silverton reflects on bringing her signature Cal-Ital cooking to the UK, Mexico and Singapore.

© Lateef Photography

032

086

Laura de Vega González, Head of Global F&B Development at Meliá Hotels International, discusses chef partnerships and sustainability.

DINING Piece of Cake

078

The much-loved pastime of afternoon tea is being given a creative makeover by operators keen to meet evolving consumer appetites evolve.

SIPPING © Alan Keohane

Shaking It Up

REGULARS Entrée

021

Events

106

Appetisers

025

Spotlight

108

Signatures

084

Petits Fours

113

Cocktails

096

Washing-Up

130

Drinks

004

101

088

A new generation of mixologists are helping to drive innovation from behind the cocktail bars of London’s most prestigious grand dame hotels.

RELIABLE COFFEE QUALITY, BLENDING ROBUSTNESS AND EASY SERVICE. WMF 1300 S It delivers a quality coffee experience in a robust and reliable way. Offering a rich menu of professional coffee and chocolate specialities, the WMF 1300 S boasts a range of new features to ensure outstanding dependability and serviceability.

DE SIGNED TO PERF ORM

wmf.com

Supper Magazine_WMF 1300 S.indd 1

04/03/2021 09:24:08

handmade & organic appeal ROBERT GORDON

forager

www.steelite.com SHOWROOMS: ATLANTA • CHICAGO • HONG KONG • LOS ANGELES • LONDON, UK • MADRID NEW YORK • SYDNEY, AUS • TORONTO, ON • WASHINGTON, D.C. • YOUNGSTOWN, OH

GLOW

NEW CATALOGUE 2022 ORDER HERE: WWW.ZIEHER.COM

48

www.mogogo-buffet.com

by

_49

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE MOMENT when loyal customers can count on coffee enjoyment every time.

Share your passion for great coffee enjoyment with your coffee lovers, all day long. Satisfy rush-hour cravings as well as easy afternoons of long, intimate chats when you rely on our Franke A600 for consistent high in-cup quality, every time.

At Franke, we’re not just in the business of selling coffee machines.

We’re in the business of creating wonderful coffee experiences for your customers.

It’s all about the moment. We can help you make it wonderful.

Want to know more? coffee.franke.com

“We don’t sell anything”, Valda states, “we help people to achieve what they want to see on their table”.

Creative Vision As restaurant concepts change continually, so does the way tableware is bought and incorporated into the concept itself. We have seen an incredible evolution in tableware over the past few years with ceramics and glassware becoming so creative they are almost works of art themselves. It is little wonder then that the best chefs seek out the most creative people to help them realise their vision for food presentation.

Goodfellow & Goodfellow Ltd. has become the go-to place for chefs and restaurateurs in London and the U.K. The idea that the design ethos of a beautiful restaurant concept, combined with an amazing menu can be brought together with tableware, requires deep understanding and empathy with each individual client.

From creating a unique bowl or plate with artisan producers; to advising on how to bring different materials together to express a chef’s personality, has become a discipline in itself.

Valda & Paul Goodfellow curate their portfolio of products through a diverse collective of design-driven producers; each one representing an individual style. ‘We don’t sell anything’, Valda states, ‘we help people to achieve what they want to see on their table’.

The G&G customer list is like a roll-call of the U.K.’s most successful restaurateurs and chefs. It’s brand portfolio is equally impressive with names like Hering Berlin, Studio Mattes, Montgolfier & Jacques Pergay offering haute couture for tableware; while trendsetting casual dining is served with trend-led brands including Costa Nova, Bonna, Figgjo and Serax.

Offering the ability to help create tableware concepts has set G&G apart from all other distributors or suppliers in the sector. Their ambition is to extend that capability beyond the U.K., and soon.

Exciting times ahead.

Call: 0844 334 5232 Shop: www.goodf.co.uk Email: sales@goodf.co.uk

To see creativity in action scan the QR code with your camera app, click the link and watch the magic unfold.

@fine2dine

SUPPER_F2D_2022_MOSAIC_236x275.indd 1

Discover

Mosaic

at www.fine2dine.com

10/02/2022 16:11

ENTRÉE

ON THE COVER Eton Mess at Moreish, Fairmont Windsor Park © Viktor Kery

The Art of Agility

F

uture gazing has always been an imprecise science at best,

and elaborate tasting menus are practically designed on the

but trying to predict what lies ahead seems increasingly

fly, changing to reflect the produce available. In New York, we

absurd in the current climate. World events seem to be

head to Ian Scharger’s ever-evolving, continuously-inspiring

lining up to make a mockery of even the most robust market

Public, where the pandemic merely provided the opportunity

forecasts, yet the hospitality sector – on the back foot for so

to overhaul the F&B offering, with the addition of a Peruvian

much of the last two years – does have one trick up its sleeve

eatery, an experiential nightclub and a cocktail bar inspired

when it comes to anticipating and responding to consumer

by the Jazz Age. What these projects have in common is an

behaviours and trends.

ability to convey an outward-looking vision while remaining

While opinions on what the next decade holds might differ – are we looking at a rerun of The Roaring Twenties or The Great

rooted in their locations, creating a unique sense of place, and – perhaps most importantly – fun.

Depression? – there’s no doubt that agility will be fundamental

This issue we also had the privilege of interviewing the

to survival and success. To this end, purpose-driven hotel

acclaimed chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, whose global

drinking and dining hotspots that have unique selling points

portfolio spans restaurants at The Connaught in London, The

and can adapt quickly to emerging trends might just have the

Mark in New York and The Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills. He

edge on larger, overstretched F&B multiplexes. Corporate hotel

knows all about the importance of agility, having pivoted

groups have often been criticised for an inability to be agile,

in the pandemic to open new outposts in heritage hotels in

but the global uncertaintly we’re experiencing makes it more

Marrakesh and Nashville. In both destinations, he infuses his

important than ever before.

signature Asian-inspired gastronomy with regionally-popular

The theory was discussed in depth at To The Table in Ajman this March, with several industry experts championing the the

dishes and flavours to strike the balance between the global and the locally-relevant that is trending today.

commercial benefits of smaller, more focused outlets that can

As the hospitality sector gets back on its feet, streamlined

be tweaked and modified as necessary to meet the needs of a

concepts will not only be more economically viable, but they

fast-moving landscape. Agility is now a major selling point.

will likely create more memorable experiences for diners, too.

There’s a freedom in this fluid approach that’s trickling

Unique design, playful execution, inventive food and drink:

into the concepts themselves. In this issue, we take you to

these are the things that keep guests intrigued, and you’ll find

Booking Office 1869, the achingly glamorous new restaurant

plenty of examples of them on these pages. Supper is served.

and bar at London’s St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, where the design swings between Neo-Gothic architectural details and eight-metre high palm trees, and the menu is equally uninhibited. At Grace & Savour, a country house restaurant on a mission to redress the imbalance in the food supply chain and champion a more resilient farming model, the ingenious

Shanna McGoldrick • Deputy Editor

021

THE BRIGADE

@SupperMag

EDITORIAL

DESIGN

FINANCE

Editor-in-Chief Matt Turner

Design Manager David Bell

Finance Director Amanda Giles

Managing Editor Catherine Martin

Production Mel Capper

Group Financial Controller Sarah Healey

m.turner@mondiale.co.uk

c.martin@mondiale.co.uk

d.bell@mondiale.co.uk

m.capper@mondiale.co.uk

Deputy Editor Shanna McGoldrick

s.mcgoldrick@mondiale.co.uk

Editorial Assistant Eleanor Howard

e.howard@mondiale.co.uk

PORTFOLIO

a.giles@mondiale.co.uk

s.healey@mondiale.co.uk

Group Credit Controller Lynette Levi EVENTS & MARKETING

Commercial Lead Kirsty Studholme

l.levi@mondiale.co.uk

Accounts Assistant Kerry Mountney

k.mountney@mondiale.co.uk

k.studholme@mondiale.co.uk

ADVERTISING

Event Manager Vicky Cruse

CORPORATE

Content & Research Olivia Mavers

Chairman Damian Walsh

v.cruse@mondiale.co.uk

Advertising Manager Rachel Chadwick r.chadwick@mondiale.co.uk

o.mavers@mondiale.co.uk

Subscriptions

enquiry@sleeper.media

Subscription records maintained at Sleeper Media Mailed by Spatial Global • Printed by Buxton Press

POWERED BY

Strawberry Studios Stockport, SK1 3AZ, UK Tel: +44 (0)161 476 8390 www.suppermag.com

W W W. D I B B E R N . D E

DIB_330335_FBC_SupperMagazin_236x275.indd 1

24.02.22 16:07

APPETISERS

The Architecture of Cognac Daniel Libeskind is best known for his architectural landmarks,

The blend itself is made from some of the scarcest eaux-de-vie

bringing his angular forms to hospitality developments, cultural

in Hennessy’s reserves, carefully selected and preserved in The

institutions and commercial centres around the world. Now, the

Founder’s Cellar on the family estate. For this reason, Richard

Polish-American architect has turned his hand to an altogether

Hennessy cognac has been produced in an extremely limited

different expression of his creative talents, having joined forces

quantity of just 12 tierçons; it is presented in Libeskind’s striking

with Maison Hennessy to design a new bottle for Richard

decanter – a piece of art in its own right – and can be accessorised

Hennessy, the rarest cognac in the collection.

with matching glasses and a serving tray.

In tribute to Richard Hennessy – the group’s founder –

“There is a complexity, process and structure to cognac, just

Libeskind immersed himself in the rich history of the brand,

as there is in architecture,” comments Libeskind. “I am inspired

crafting a bottle that is as visionary as the man who inspired it. He

by the interplay of history and the future – a particular magic

started with a classic cognac receptacle, imbuing the geometric,

happens when the two come together. And I relish bringing

crystalline forms of Baccarat crystal with soft, organic curves

a myriad of ideas from different areas to the design process,

that bring new energy and complexity to the cognac it contains.

because I believe it elevates and brings new meaning to design.”

APPETISERS

A V-edgy Move Meat is officially off the menu at Ovolo Hotels, which is committing to a vegetarian-led offering following a successful trial period.

026

Following a year-long trial campaign that saw

anticipated, and we now find ourselves part of a

the Hong Kong-based brand remove meat from

new wave of plant-based pioneers. The one big

several of its in-house menus, Ovolo Hotels has

lesson we have learned from our bold experiment:

officially gone vegetarian. This February, the

never underestimate your guests. A key focus for

contemporary accommodation group launched

us has been ensuring we are creating something

its new vegetarian-led F&B offering Plant’d,

that still appeals to everyone - from vegans to

pledging to take an ethical and cutting-edge

flexitarians, and those who are simply keen on

approach to hotel dining.

expanding their palate.”

“It’s been a strategic move, but Ovolo

In a bid to offer industry-wide support, the

prides itself on being an industry leader,”

group has also launched a Plant’d Playbook

comments Ovolo Group’s founder and CEO,

whitepaper, packed with information and

Girish Jhunjhnuwala. “We believe that the world

resources for other hotel brands curious about the

changes, therefore we continue to evolve – we

practicalities of making the transition to plant-

want to ensure we are doing our bit to help

based dining. Featuring data, tips on defining

preserve our environment, promote healthy

food and beverage menus and acumen gained

eating and enhance the image of amazing

along the way, the paper will be publicly available

vegetarian and plant-based dining.”

online. Concludes Jhunjhnuwala: “There have

The group’s Creative Culinary Partner Ian

also been a lot of learnings along the way, and

Curley worked with the hotel’s restaurants in

we want to share those insights with others in

Hong Kong, Australia and Indonesia to help

the industry and outside the industry considering

devise new menus. “Our move to vegetarian

making the switch to a vegetarian-lead offerings

dining has been even more successful than we

or integrating it into their existing offering.”

F

or decades, the UK hospitality industry

a better work/life balance. The scheme will first

has struggled with labour shortages and

be implemented in the hotel’s Winter Garden

attracting and retaining staff, particularly

Restaurant, with the potential to be rolled-out

in the kitchen. Widely regarded as having long,

across other kitchens if successful. Productivity

unsociable hours, low wages and a stressful work

will be maintained through a recruitment drive

environment, a career behind the stove has earned

that will increase the number of kitchen staff that

itself a bad reputation. And those that persevere

the hotel employs.

can often expect burnout as a consequence. So it’s

“The creative change in work days will relieve

hardly surprising that around 20,000 chefs leave

some of the current pressure the team is under

the profession every year in the UK according to

which is something they are very excited about

a 2019 study by Centre for London.

and engaged with,” explains Klaner. “It shows

To counter such a staggering annual loss, the

The Landmark London’s serious investment in

industry has relied heavily on Europeans, who

our employees and the commitment to providing

see hospitality as a respectable career path,

a healthy work life balance for them.”

in order to bolster the workforce. In fact, EU

In a bid to further improve the working

nationals made up 43% of hospitality workers in

environment in hospitality kitchens, the hotel

Working 9 to 5 As the hospitality staffing crisis reaches breaking point in the UK, hotels are searching for new ways to keep chefs on board.

2019, according to research by Fourth.

art kitchens and back-of-house areas including a

global pandemic, and the UK staffing crisis

staff restaurant with its own open-plan kitchen

has reached breaking point. Travel restrictions

and designated team, a new academy for team

imposed in response to Covid-19 saw the

members to learn and develop a variety of skills,

industry lose more than 90,000 EU workers over

as well as development programmes for those

the past two years; many returned to their home

entering the industry.

counties, while others left the sector altogether

Other chefs in the capital have also been

in search of a more stable future. What’s more,

vocal about tackling the issue of poor working

repeated lockdowns put huge financial strain on

conditions. At Wild Honey, Chef Anthony

businesses, forcing mass redundancies followed

Demetre’s Michelin-starred Sofitel London St

by difficulties in finding staff once they finally

James restaurant, a strict 48-hour working week

reopened. Hotels have been known to close off

is in place. The venue also closes on Sundays,

entire guestroom floors while restaurants have

Mondays and Tuesday evenings to allow staff to

had to cap covers or reduce operating hours.

plan their own time. “It’s about striking a work

Now, as the sector starts to recover, hospitality

028

owners have also invested £10m in state-of-the-

Add in the complexities of Brexit and the

life balance,” says Demetre.

businesses are looking for new ways to keep their

It remains to be seen whether programmes

workforce happy and healthy. One hotel leading

such as the four-day work week will have the

the charge is The Landmark London, where

desired impact on hospitality’s staffing crisis;

Executive Chef Gary Klaner has devised a scheme

only time will tell. What is clear is that employers

to allow its chefs to work a four-day week with

have a responsibility to invest in their teams and

increased wages as part of an ambition to deliver

support them in achieving a balanced lifestyle.

0015 - SUPPER MAGAZINE - GHOST ZERO ILANI.indd 1

2.03.2022 14:20

xxx

CHEF’S TABLE

Simon Rogan The British chef’s Lake District restaurant-with-rooms won a coveted third Michelin star this year – but Simon Rogan’s culinary empire stretches from London to Hong Kong. Here he shares a snapshot of his life in food.

When did you first fall in love with cooking?

It’s Sunday evening at home: who’s cooking

How often do you dine out?

My dad worked in wholesale fruit and veg when

and what’s on the menu?

Not as much as I’d like to. But I had a fantastic

I was growing up; most evenings he would

Most Sundays it’s a full roast dinner with all the

meal at Brat in London recently with my team.

come home with a box of weird and wonderful

trimmings, usually cooked by Penny or myself.

produce, so early on I developed an interest in

The kind of roast that when you’re finished, you

Are you an easygoing or a demanding diner?

seasonal ingredients.

have to lie down for half an hour!

I’m very easygoing. When I go out to eat,

What’s your favourite hotel restaurant?

What’s your go-to cooking soundtrack?

The Pig in Brockenhurst, in the New Forest,

My taste is pretty eclectic, but I have quite a

UK. Their ethos is very similar to what we do

few friends who are DJs so I listen to a lot of

Healthy dishes or full-fat indulgence?

at L’Enclume – it’s unpretentious cooking in a

house music.

Full-fat indulgence.

I’m there to relax, not to be judgemental or demanding.

beautiful location.

Which chefs have inspired you?

Sweet or savoury?

Restaurant dining or room service?

Marc Veyrat – his use of foraged ingredients

Savoury.

Restaurant dining.

from the mountains around Annecy in France has really inspired the approach at my

Who is your favourite person to cook for?

What’s your favourite dish and who cooks it?

restaurants. I had the most memorable meal

Other than guests, it’s my wife Penny. I find

My favourite dish is a fragrant Thai green curry.

of my life at one of his restuarants, La Ferme

cooking for her at home really relaxing.

My wife Penny, my son Michael and I all love to

de Mon Père, in Megève.

Which cookbooks can we find on your shelf?

make it. We’re quite competitive when it comes Where do you get the creative inspiration for

There’s Herbs, Spices and Flavourings by Tom

your dishes?

Stobart, Food for Free by Richard Maybey and

And something to drink with that?

A massive part of what guides our menus is

White Heat by Marco Pierre White. I also have

It has to be a Singha beer.

what is thriving at Our Farm [Rogan’s farm in

Essential Cuisine by Michel Bras, and Great

Cartmel Valley, in the heart of the Lake District,

Chefs of France by Anthony Blake and Quentin

which provides the ingredients for his dishes].

Crewe.

to deciding whose is the best… I think it’s mine!

When a particular ingredient is tasting its best, it goes on the menu.

Which city is food heaven for you?

Hong Kong, because it’s constantly evolving

NOTABLE PROJECTS L’Enclume, Cartmel, UK; Rogan & Co, Cartmel, UK; Aulis, Cartmel, UK; Aulis, London, UK; Aulis, Hong Kong; Roganic, Hong Kong; The Baker & The Bottleman, Hong Kong www.simonrogan.co.uk

Which new restaurant are you eager to try out?

with new food places popping up every day.

Moxie in Hong Kong. It’s a new restaurant

From fine-dining to the street food scene, it

by a great friend of mine, Shane Osborn. The

has it all.

menu is vegetable-centred with a focus on sustainability.

031

In Search of Perfection Culinary powerhouse Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s global empire of restaurants includes some of the most exclusive brand names and postcodes in the hotel business. Currently on his radar are new openings in Nashville and Marrakesh.

Words: Ayesha Khan • Portrait Photography: © Francesco Tonelli

J

032

ean-Georges Vongerichten’s career has been

Outhier’s next move was to export the concept of the

shaped, to some extent, by his obsession with

curated hotel restaurant to some of America’s swankiest

perfecting the art of the hotel restaurant –

cities, with Vongerichten’s help. “In 1986 I was at The Drake,

something he believes began during his childhood

Daniel Boulud was at Hôtel Plaza Athénée and hotels in New

in Alsace, France. “My house growing up was like

York really started realising they needed to compete with the

a hotel,” he recalls. “With my grandparents, my

private restaurants; people would stay there, but then go

parents and my aunts, there were about 18 people living in

elsewhere to eat,” Vongerichten says. He believes the desire

the house across three generations.”

to be well-fed is universal: “If you look back through history,

Living in such a bountiful region of the country, the family

Auguste Escoffier escaped Paris to go and work at The Savoy

naturally took an interest in produce and the culinary arts,

in London. And even further back than that, you either ate

exposing the young Jean-Georges to the most sophisticated

at home, or, when were riding in your horse-and-carriage,

local eateries. Indeed, it was a trip to the triple-Michelin-

stop off somewhere for food and rest.”

starred Auberge de l’Ill on his 16th birthday that really kick-

After opening two more casual standalone restaurants in

started his passion; he was so taken with the experience that

New York, by now the epicentre of his restaurant empire,

he immediately asked to be enlisted as an apprentice to the

Vongerichten was courted by General Electric to really flex

venue’s legendary chef, Paul Haeberlin.

his culinary muscle at a new hotel restaurant. The fine-

Vongerichten rose quickly through the French culinary

dining venue Jean-Georges was born on the ground floor

ranks, even securing a stint with Paul Bocuse, the godfather

at the Trump International Hotel & Tower overlooking New

of the nation’s cuisine. And it wasn’t long before another

York’s Central Park: to this day, the double-Michelin-starred

chef and mentor, Louis Outhier, took him to Asia to introduce

eatery remains Vongerichten’s flagship.

him to the art of the hotel restaurant. “Back in the seventies

These days, the chef’s empire encompasses 28 restaurants

and even the nineties, hotels had a bad reputation for food,”

in total, including both standalone venues and outlets within

says Vongerichten. His foray into Asia – where he headed

hotel developments. He is quick to point out the advantages

10 hotel F&B outlets across Bangkok, Singapore, Hong Kong

of the latter. “If you don’t have to pay rent, your money is

and Osaka – showed him how to break that stigma. He also

focused purely on creativity,” he quips. He’s also grateful

gained an appreciation for incorporating the aromas and

for the acute business acumen instilled in him by the hotel

flavours of the East into his cuisine – a skill that would

industry. “Before I moved to Bangkok, I didn’t know how

become his signature.

to run a business,” he says. “I knew how to make the best

SERVICE

© Daniel Christopher Rivera

© Alan Keohane

034

SERVICE

Vongerichten has recently introduced his cuisine to Drusie & Darr at The Hermitage Hotel and L’Italien Restaurant at La Mamounia

“Before I moved to Bangkok, I didn’t know how to run a business. I knew how to make the best scrambled eggs, but not how to manage people, how to please the customer and stay profitable.”

scrambled eggs, but not how to manage people,

This chapter of the story needs little

L’Asiatique and L’Italien at La Mamounia

how to please the customer and stay profitable.”

explanation; on 17 March 2020, the US city –

were designed in close collaboration with

His portfolio includes Jean-Georges Beverly

battling the first wave of its Covid-19 outbreak

Jouin Manku. Both venues embrace the hotel’s

Hills at The Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills, Jean-

– came to a screeching halt. “I had nothing

Moorish heritage and boldly look forward

Georges at The Connaught in London, and Paris

open, and my heart just stopped,” recalls

into a world of modern design with custom

Café at the TWA Hotel in New York. In January

Vongerichten. “I thought, that’s it, I’m done.

furnishings and statement lighting elements.

this year, he opened his first restaurant in the

I’m going to just pack my suitcase and move

Drusie & Darr also boasts strong design

American South in the form of Drusie & Darr at

somewhere else. But Asia was closed, America

credentials. Interior designer Thomas Juul-

the storied Nashville property The Hermitage

was closed; I honestly didn’t think I would be

Hansen was charged with rejuvenating the space,

Hotel. He also recently opened a brand new

able to save my existing restaurants so decided

blending his signature aesthetic of pared-down

Asian restaurant, L’Asiatique par Jean-Georges,

make a deal with La Mamounia.” Still visibly

contemporary decor with historically-sensitive

at La Mamounia in Marrakesh, and took the

harrowed by that moment in time, the chef

touches that complement its position in the

reins at the hotel’s existing L’Italien Restaurant.

says he would never have made it without the

112-year-old Hermitage Hotel. The restaurant’s

intervention of the government.

moniker is also a reference to its legacy, being

That project, in particular, came about in an unexpected way. “The King of Morocco came

Despite the challenges, Vongerichten is

named after brother and sister Drusie and Darr

to ABC Kitchen in New York with the General

grateful for the lessons of the past two years.

Hall, who lived at the property with their father

Manager of La Mamounia,” says Vongerichten.

“The pandemic has really helped how we

and General Manager Dick Hall in the 1960s.

“I was there that night and they called me

communicate,” he says. “Before, we would

For his first venture in the South US,

over to the table to tell me how amazing the

put a call in to our restaurants once a week,

Vongerichten sought to create a menu showcasing

food was, and how they would like to bring it

but now with Zoom, we can speak to everyone

some of his best-known signature dishes, such

to Morocco. The General Manager gave me his

together. We had been working for years on

as his gingery tuna tartare and regionally-

business card and I said ‘oh, isn’t La Mamounia

teambuilding, but have accomplished more in

relevant classics that spotlight Tennessee’s

owned by the King of Morocco?’ He gestured

the last two years alone. For once, it wasn’t

seasonal produce. The modern American menu

over to his guest – it turns out he was the King.”

about construction and travel, it was about

features signature Asian influences, and offers

Vongerichten met the General Manager again

people,” he explains. Another valuable skill he

elevated yet approachable cuisine. “We brought

in Shanghai. “He showed me some visuals of

acquired was in opening an overseas restaurant

all the essential Southern comfort foods: fried

La Mamounia and said it was being designed

almost entirely over video-call. “We hired our

chicken, barbecue, dumplings, collard greens,”

by Jouin Manku from Paris and insisted I get

chefs on Zoom; we developed the recipes over

says the chef. “I love the town of Nashville. I

involved. I pushed my next meeting with him

Zoom. We were in the kitchen with masks and

bought my first cowboy boots from there and

in Morocco to March 2020 – and then New York

face shields videotaping our recipes and sending

danced until 3am on Broadway!”

went into lockdown.”

them over to the team in Morocco,” he recalls.

In addition to Juul-Hansen, Vongerichten

035

SERVICE

“We always want to be part of the whole process; to design the entire experience.

Every tabletop, every chair, every salt shaker – I’m there.”

Drusie & Darr in The Hermitage Hotel, designed by Thomas Juul-Hansen, is the chef’s first outpost in the American South

has worked with myriad celebrated designers,

challenging undertaking yet. Set in what was

including Christian Liaigre at The Mercer in New

once New York’s go-to fish market on South

York, John Heah at The Connaught in London,

Street Seaport, the Tin Building boasts 53,000ft2

and architect Lord Norman Foster at his outpost

of space, and is set to house 12 different food

atop Four Seasons Hotel Philadelphia. “Working

venues – among them, a Japanese restaurant

with designers is an amazing process,” he

that transforms into a late-night izakaya, a

says. “We always want to be part of the whole

clandestine Chinese fine-dining eatery and a

process; to design the entire experience. Every

French brasserie. It’s the perfect way to sum

tabletop, every chair, every salt shaker – I’m

up the broad reach of Vongerichten’s global

there.” He is, however, often irked by what he

cuisine – and in many ways, it’s the culinary

calls ‘F&B syndrome’ – refering to the moments

personification of the man himself. It also

that hotel General Managers and F&B directors

brings his over 35 years in New York full circle.

take it upon themselves to modify the design of

“When I came to New York City for the first

hotel restaurants. “The problem in hotels, if you

time in 1985 – a trip that launched my career

have the wrong kind of contract, is that a new

– I went straight to the Fulton Fish Market on

General Manager will come in and suddenly he

my second day and immersed myself in the

wants red pillows,” he explains. “Then another

market’s thriving activity,” he recalls. “This

new manager comes in and says he wants some

project is an opportunity for me to recreate

green lamps. We are all creatures of habit, we

such a meaningful experience.” Proud as he is

expect the same things, people come back for

of his present, the culinary powerhouse remains

the essence of what is there.”

equally grateful for the challenges and lessons

Vongerichten’s latest project is not a

of his past.

hotel venture – but it just might be his most

© Daniel Christopher Rivera

036

trade.lsa-international.com

Metropolitan collection

MAKING CONNECTIONS Time to come together

LSA_SUPPER_Advert_CMYK_MAR22_AW_V01.indd 1

10/03/2022 11:08

SERVICE

California Dreaming US chef, author and restaurateur Nancy Silverton is renowned for shaping the evolution of Cal-Ital cooking on the West Coast. Now, fresh from the launch of two new international restaurants, the culinary star is exporting her brand of sun-drenched flavours and flawless dough globally.

Words: Lauren Jade Hill • Photography: © Milo Brown Photography

N

ancy Silverton is widely credited with

This passion for provenance and seasonality has guided

helping to shape the modern-day perception

Silverton’s culinary career ever since, taking her on a journey

of Californian cuisine – but sitting at the

that saw her train at Le Cordon Bleu London, before getting

new London outpost of her Pizzeria Mozza

her big break in 1982 when Wolfgang Puck hired her as the

restaurant brand at Treehouse Hotel London,

opening pastry chef for his Los Angeles restuarant Spago,

the acclaimed chef admits that she didn’t

which quickly gained cult status on the local food scene. In

grow up a food-lover.

1989, inspired by a trip to Italy, she and her then-husband

“In retrospect, my mother was a good cook, but I didn’t

Mark Peel opened the restaurant Campanile – which the

appreciate her food growing up,” she says. “I grew up in the

Los Angeles Times credited with helping to shape the city’s

era of convenience food and that’s what all my friends were

gastronomic landscape, and won the James Beard Foundation

eating, so that’s what I wanted to eat too. My mother was

Award for Outstanding Restaurant in 2001. The launch of her

not that kind of cook – she made proper meals.” But college

adjacent La Brea Bakery, which played a fundamental role

years changed her outlook. “It was when I started cooking in

in popularising sourdough and sparking the artisan bread

my college dorms that I not only fell in love with the process

movement in the nineties, consolidated her star status.

of making food and the joy that it brought people, but that

Asked about the impact people credit her with having on

was also when I became very passionate about the source of

the culinary world, Silverton says: “I think I was probably

food and seasonality.”

influential in taking the approach of chefs like Alice Waters

A seminal moment in Silverton’s culinary journey came

to food and continuing that. I was not a founder of that

the first time she ate at Chez Panisse, the pioneering farm-

movement, because it goes back further than when I started

to-table eatery in Berkeley, California, run by chef and

cooking – but I definitely helped bring attention through

restaurateur Alice Waters. “I was interested in how the way

the food I was making, as well as my approaches and

she sourced food influenced the way she cooked, and I didn’t

philosophies, which were a continuum of that foundation.”

know it really until I ate her food,” she says. “I found that

Silverton’s food marries her Southern Californian heritage

philosophy really influential, and it paved the way to how I

with the recipes and traditions of her beloved Italy, finished

approach cuisine. That era of pioneering Californian chefs

with a personal twist that showcases her flair for flavour.

like Alice Waters was around the time of my coming-of-age

“I have a special place in my heart for Italy and I’ve had a

– the movement was just starting up around me.”

home there for the last 20 years,” she says. “What I bring

039

040

SERVICE

Silverton’s London menu introduces diners to some of her most popular dishes – including pizzas with structured crusts made using her signature dough recipe

“What I bring is not authentic Italian food, but the flavours of Italy paired with the seasonality of California.”

is not authentic Italian food, but the flavours of Italy paired

California. Last August, she took the Pizzeria Mozza brand

with the seasonality of California,” she clarifies. “Something

to the UK, marking a third restaurant at Treehouse Hotel

that’s attractive to me about the Italian table, in the small

London, before turning her attention to Mexico with the

towns I spend my time in, is the seasonal products they

launch of Mozza at Costa Palmas in Los Cabos. In 2022 she

work with alongside preserved items like vinegars, capers

returns to Singapore – where she previously had a restaurant

and salted anchovies.”

at Marina Bay Sands – with the imminent opening of a new

And even after all this time, the country still proffers

Osteria Mozza at Hilton Singapore Orchard, and during our

inspiration. “I always say that I can’t return to Los Angeles

meeting in London, she also hints at a potential new project

without one idea or new dish that I’m passionate about,”

in Saudi Arabia.

she says. “Last summer it was the most perfect panzanella

Silverton has come a long way since her days as a trainee

salad that I had in the tiny Umbrian town of Bevagna. It was

chef in the British capital. When the restaurant launched,

very simple but everything about it was right, so that was

she said in a statement: “Opening here at the Treehouse in

the gift I brought back to my restaurant; in my own way, I

Marylebone is like a wonderful homecoming for me. In 1977,

recreated that.”

44 years ago, I was a student at London’s revered Le Cordon

This passion for consistently seeking out fresh flavour combinations has certainly paid dividends. In 2014, Silverton

Bleu culinary school, mere blocks away on Marylebone Lane, and now I am back with my Pizzeria Mozza.”

won the James Beard Foundation’s highest honour, the

The venue is a grown-up and polished affair, offering

Outstanding Chef Award, before going on to star in an episode

high ceilings and plenty of light. Designed by Ward & Gray,

of the Netflix series Chef’s Table in 2017. She has written

the space features timber panelling, vibrant blue leather

nine cookbooks, including the prominent tome Breads from

upholstery, terracotta floor tiles and a polished marble bar,

La Brea Bakery, in which she shares her secrets to baking

along with verdant greenery that echoes the hotel’s character

the perfect loaf at home. She has also appeared as a judge on

and emanates a Mediterranean garden vibe. The designers

MasterChef and several other cooking shows.

worked predominantly with Italian vendors, highlighting the

In partnership with the restaurateur Joe Bastianich, Silverton now co-owns two Pizzeria Mozza venues in Los

work of the Venetian glass blower Sogni di Cristallo and the Milanese furniture maker Soto.

Angeles and Newport Beach, as well as a smattering of

Silverton’s London menu introduces diners to some of her

additional LA eateries including the upscale restaurant Chi

most popular dishes from across the pond – including, of

Spacca, the Michelin-starred Osteria Mozza, and its takeout

course, the famous pizzas with structured crusts made using

branch Mozza2Go. There’s no slowing down for the duo,

her signature dough recipe. What would she recommend?

who opened the wine bar and pizza restuarant Pizzette

“From the antipasti, try the chicken liver with capers, parsley

in California’s Culver City in 2020, before launching a

and pancetta,” she says. “It’s very different to the chicken

steakhouse called The Barish at The Hollywood Roosevelt

liver you get elsewhere – it’s more Italian. You should

in April 2021.

definitely get a salad, too; Nancy’s Chopped Salad is the one

But Silverton’s sphere of influence extends beyond

that really packs the punch with all the flavours intertwined

041

SERVICE

Treehouse Hotel London’s Pizzeria Mozza features timber panelling, terracotta floor tiles and vibrant blue upholstery

042

in one forkful.” The diverse pizza toppings

Mandarin Oriental property on Orchard Road.

include prosciutto di Parma with tomato, fior

The eatery will pair bestselling items from

di latte and rucola, as well as a ‘nduja option

Silverton’s existing restaurants with new dishes

with friggitelli peppers, tomato and smoked

made specifically for the Asian venue: diners

scamorza. “We put all the greatest hits on the

can expect old favourites such as prosciutto di

menu with a few other seasonal options,” the

Parma and comice pear, smoked mozzarella di

chef explains.

bufala, and primi and secondi plates ranging

In Mexico, meanwhile, Silverton’s new

from butternut squash tortellini to grilled quail

Mozza venue sits within the 1,000-acre Costa

wrapped in pancetta. For dessert, highlights

Palmas resort and residential community on the

include torta della nonna with local honeycomb

East Cape of Los Cabos as the anchor in the first

and Sicilian pine nuts.

phase of the Costa Palmas Marina Village. The

Wherever Silverton goes, her restaurants offer

eatery combines elements of the chef’s Osteria

the enticing fusion that comes from these Italian

Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza and Chi Spacca concepts

and Californian foundations. What makes diners

with local references, using seafood sourced

connect with this cuisine to such an extent? “It

from the area. The design features a wood-fired

is food that’s accessible,” she says. “It’s not

oven and grab-and-go counter reminiscent of

a mystery and the flavours are familiar. When

a timeless Italian deli, with the venue divided

people eat, they want to be nourished. My food

into a series of interconnected spaces designed

nourishes. I don’t have any gimmicks in what

to complement the natural setting.

I do. I just try to make dishes that taste good

In Asia, the Singapore outpost of Osteria Mozza will sit within the new Hilton Singapore Orchard, which is replacing the former

and are memorable, so even after a diner leaves, they want to return.”

french family-run company since 1768 revol1768.com

SUPPER.indd 1

Photo : Studio Saison

DESIGN

18/03/2022 15:59:48

Spanish Spirit As Meliá Hotels International strengthens its portfolio, Laura de Vega González, Head of Global F&B Development, discusses chef partnerships, new concepts and a focus on sustainable sourcing.

Words: Jenna Campbell

044

PROFILE Laura de Vega González Head of Global F&B Development Meliá Hotels International

The last few years have seen Meliá Hotels

SPANISH SPIRIT

International raise its game in the hotel F&B

Whether it’s a starry UK-wide partnership with

space. The announcement of a collaboration

Gino D’Acampo or foodie experiences closer to

between the Innside brand and Italian chef Gino

home, it is always “Spanish warmth and passion”

With more than 20 years’ experience in the hospitality industry – including stints as a general manager in various lifestyle hotels – Laura de Vega González’s career has developed to specialise in F&B. Tasked with defining and strategising F&B concepts for all properties across the Meliá Hotels International portfolio, in particular for luxury and lifestyle brands, de Vega González is constantly on the lookout for partners and products that bring innovative dining experiences to the market.

D’Acampo claimed a place in the UK’s competitive

that defines the food offering at Meliá hotels,

hospitality market while a period of growth back

and the group’s new concepts are geared towards

home in Spain saw far-reaching diversification of

finding the exceptional elements of Spain in

its F&B concepts across sprawling resorts, urban

locales near and far. As de Vega González notes:

outposts and wellness retreats, from the hip

“Gastronomy at a premium hotel is no longer

biophilic bohemia of ME flagship Terrenal – its

just something to complement the experience,

first five-star hotel opening in Barcelona in over

it’s now one of the main drivers.”

Upcoming Openings: Gran Meliá Menorca, Balearics (2022); Tenuta di Artimino, Tuscany (2022); Paradisus Salinas, Lanzarote (2022); Gran Meliá Kish, Iran 2022; Gran Meliá Cordusio, Milan (2023)

a decade – to the upcoming luxury restaurant

Reflecting this sentiment, at the soon-to-be

offerings at Villa Le Blanc in Menorca. Elsewhere,

launched Villa Le Blanc in Menorca, a culinary

a flair for design statements like those at the

space dedicated to local produce will follow

refurbed Hotel Colón Gran Meliá in Seville, where

traditional fishing techniques, giving guests

a new bar has been created beneath a classical

a chance to enjoy authentic delicacies, while

green ceramic dome, have kept the group firmly

behind the bar, Joan Canals – an ambassador of

in the minds of guests.

Balearic brand Gin Xoriguer – will showcase the

Overseeing this evolution, Laura de Vega

best homegrown spirits and creative cocktails.

González, Head of Global F&B at Melia Hotels

Throughout the portfolio, de Vega González

International, has risen through the Meliá

is keen to experiment with different techniques

ranks, progressing from receptionist to the head

and concepts at the group’s new outposts.

of the table. Having weathered the storm of

“Following demand for high-quality produce we

Covid-19, she is now working to usher in a new

are embracing ancient cooking techniques, which

gastronomic chapter for the group. Supper spoke

respect the raw materials and their properties, be

to her about the group’s sustainability efforts,

it the firing, grilling or smoking of vegetables,

the chef appointments across its kitchens and

fish and meat,” she notes. “Also, the demand

what can be learned from F&B disruptors.

for luxury relates to high-quality, local produce,

SERVICE

and the best way to show this is with our new

within its own ranks. “Being an international

Meaningful steps have also been taken towards

raw bars, where tartares, ceviches, fresh seafood

company with talented chefs around the world,

reducing waste and championing low-impact

and salted meats are offered.”

we always give preference to internal talent in

kitchen techniques with an aim to becoming

order to develop their career,” she explains. “If

a circular hospitality model that reduces the

we build our employees up they will help build

group’s impact on the environment. These

When it comes to the delivery of these F&B

our business too. Offering this international

practical measures have also been rolled out

concepts, collaboration with world-renowned

experience gives our chefs a global vision and

against the backdrop of the pandemic. “All

talent raises the game across the board. “Guests

base of knowledge that is really appreciated when

of the experiences around dining moved into

are expecting top-quality experiences and

managing teams in different F&B environments,

more of a mindset behaviour – guests seek a

incredible flavours every time they eat, and as

and also reinforces the creativity in menu design

higher quality of product, with seasonal and

a result the chefs are becoming stars of the new

and culinary offers.”

healthy ingredients, sustainable sourcing and

STAR APPEAL

openings to a degree,” says de Vega González

fishing,” explains de Vega González. “Brands

of this strategy. “When we collaborate with

GREEN CREDENTIALS

celebrity chefs who have a lot of experience and

Topping industry lists for sustainability

soul, and train their employees in this manner,

knowledge, our own chefs get to train with some

credentials, Meliá’s focus on responsible

are increasingly sought after.”

of the best in the industry.”

operating practices extends to its F&B offering

Working towards the reduction of food waste,

As a result, high-profile partnerships have

too, informing the sourcing of ingredients as well

Meliá has partnered with companies built on

developed with chefs like triple-Michelin-

as the longevity and footprint of a menu’s impact.

sustainability principles including Leanpath and

starred seafood specialist Ángel León at Meliá

“We are tapping in to global trends including

Too Good To Go, amongst others. “We want to

Sancti Petri in Cadiz, and Íñigo Urrechu, the

biodiversity, taking up ingredients that were

protect biodiversity and the natural capital of

‘master of coal’ at Marbella’s Gran Meliá Don

used in the past such as herbs and wild fruits and

our destinations, so an example of this is our

Pepe and Meliá Frankfurt. “There’s also Luciano

incorporating those which were previously not

partnership with We Like Fish to promote species

Monosilio, who will join as Executive Chef at

being used,” explains de Vega González. “With

caught by the organisation’s vessels including

Villa Agrippina Gran Meliá in Rome, having been

the green, plant-forward trend, we are taking

toothfish, brotola and mullet found in West

called the ‘king of carbonara’ by The New York

inspiration from traditional recipes of various

African waters. We want to turn our hotels and

Times,” adds de Vega González.

countries and creating delicious recipes; being

restaurants into generators of social value and

green doesn’t mean that you have to lose the

positive impact.”

And yet, Meliá has not lost sight of the importance of nurturing emerging talent

with sustainability at their core, which also have

sophistication of incredible flavours.”

045

STARTER

The Maybourne Bar The Maybourne LOS ANGELES

Words: Eleanor Howard Photography: Courtesy of André Fu Studio

IN A BITE Owner / Operator: Maybourne Hotel Group Interior Design: André Fu Studio Chef: Kaleo Adams Head Mixologist: Chris Amirault www.maybournebeverlyhills.com

046

ince acquiring Montage Beverly Hills in

S

Art Deco-style lamps accompany high bar

2019, Maybourne Hotel Group has been

stools in Yves Klein blue, while handmade sheer

steadily upgrading the property in line

panels by French artisan Pietro Seminelli lighten

with its London portfolio. Having introduced

the look. Precious materials carry through to

The Terrace – an al fresco restaurant that brings

the flooring, where an intricate mosaic of white

the Californian countryside to the city – and the

terrazzo sits alongside silver Emperador marble.

handsome wood-panelled Cigar and Whiskey

The

beverage

programme

meanwhile

Bar, the hotel has now expanded its food and

showcases seasonal variations of cocktail

beverage offering to include The Maybourne

classics. Handcrafted by Head Mixologist Chris

Bar, designed by André Fu Studio.

Amirault, libations include Slow Dance – a

Located in the lobby, the jewel-box of a

vibrant highball with clementine and rosehip –

bar marks Fu’s first hospitality project in the

and Killer Joe, an Espresso Martini made with

US, and promises to bring the quintessential

coffee from the LA roaster Maru. There are also

Maybourne cocktail experience to the West

elevated bar snacks such as caviar, tuna tartare

Coast. For the interiors, Fu sought to unite

and a Maine lobster roll with smoked trout roe.

different cultures through design, introducing

“The Maybourne Beverly Hills bar embraces a

the geometric patterns of the Art Deco era

truly authentic spirit of hospitality, reimagined

alongside the vibrant colours of Californian

into a setting of contemporary opulence,”

landscapes. Surrounded by walls of burr walnut

comments Fu, who has worked with Maybourne

panelling in charcoal grey and ivory, the space

Hotel Group on various projects for over a

is anchored by a bar carved from solid Turkish

decade. “I am delighted to be part of the

silver onyx with polished nickel accents and

group’s ongoing journey, creating the very best

inset lighting that casts a seductive glow.

of hospitality experiences.”

STARTER

Isa Four Seasons Hotel MADRID

Words: Shanna McGoldrick Photography: © Christian Horan

IN A BITE Owner: OHLA, Mohari Hospitality Operator: Four Seasons Hotels & Resorts Architecture: Estudio Lamela Interior Design: AvroKo Chef: Jhonny Setjo F&B Manager: Sophie Larrouture Head Bartender: Miguel Pérez www.fourseasons.com

048

A

recent spate of high-profile hospitality

Ōchādo – a combination of Choya plum wine,

launches across Madrid means the

lacto-fermented purple carrot and citrus – and

Spanish capital is currently enjoying a

Oniwa, which is made with Seedlip Garden and

moment in the global culinary spotlight. Four

citrus gazpacho water. Naturally, sake is well

Seasons Hotel Madrid is contributing to this

represented; in fact, Isa claims to stock the only

momentum with the introduction of Isa, a sultry

barrel-aged sake to be found in Europe.

gastrobar that promises a vibrant and multisensory epicurean experience.

Accompanying the drinks offering is a sophisticated and creative tapas menu devised

The venue, which serves up Asian-inspired

by Head Chef Jhonny Setjo. The dishes nod

tapas and avant-garde cocktails, is set out

to the cooking codes of both Asia and the

across multiple rooms that have the flexibility

Mediterranean, with highlights including

to be closed off for private events. Designed

pickled carrot and trout caviar, and bao with

by New York-based studio AvroKo, each area

baby squid in their ink. The occasionally

comes with its own distinctly seductive and

surprising flavour combinations also include

artistic aesthetic.

roasted golden garlic aioli, fried oyster with

Isa’s centrepiece is its dramatic circular bar

kataifi, and black truffle and oscietra caviar.

crowned by a statement painting on the ceiling

Taking the guest experience a step further

above. It’s here that renowned Head Bartender

is the bar’s onsite Himiko Lab, which offers a

(and homegrown Madrileño) Miguel Pérez

first-hand exploration of the creative process

rustles up cocktails that reference the concept of

behind the cocktails. Curious minds satiated,

the Japanese haiku by employing a minimalist

the bar turns its attention to playtime; come

approach that produces complex flavours.

sundown, Isa transforms into a sleek, polished

The drinks bear Japanese monikers such as

nightlife spot for locals and hotel guests alike.

STARTER

Cabra The Hoxton LOS ANGELES

Words: Shanna McGoldrick Photography: © Stan Lee

IN A BITE Operator: Accor, Ennismore F&B Operator: Boka Restaurant Group Chef: Stephanie Izard Beverage Director: Daniel Dooreck www.thehoxton.com

050

P

isco sours, Peruvian eats and panoramic

year in a bid to shine the spotlight on local

views certainly pack a punch at Cabra Los

produce and ingredients.

Angeles, the peppy new restaurant that

Beverage Director Daniel Dooreck has tapped

opened its doors on the rooftop of The Hoxton,

into the vibrancy of the food with a cocktail

Downtown LA, in January.

menu that puts pisco front and centre, with

Helmed by acclaimed chef Stephanie Izard in

the classic Pisco Sour and frozen Pisco Fever

partnership with Boka Restaurant Group, the

incorporating vodka and guava leading the way.

new venue marks the second opening for Cabra

A Llama Llama Tonic with cilantro-infused rum

– Spanish for ‘goat’ – following its successful

and green mango syrup is another standout

debut at The Hoxton, Chicago.

concoction, as is the Peruvian Passion, which

The Californian venue picks up where its

features fresh passion fruit honey and bourbon.

Midwestern counterpart leaves off, serving

The wine list spans smaller, organic producers

up colourful and shareable food inspired by

– many from South America’s wine-growing

the bold and zesty flavours of Peru. Menu

regions – and natural wines with acidity to

highlights include quinoa and tuna salad,

complement the menu’s ceviches. The beers

which is invigorated by candied pecans and a

highlight both local breweries and imported

cilantro-yuzu dressing, and a layered shrimp

Peruvian lagers such as Cusqueña.

causa that features aji potato and a limey

A joyful interior reinforces Cabra’s spirited

huacatay. Ceviches range from salmon to bass,

aesthetic, with gutsy patterns and rich textures

and empanada fillings include Swiss chard and

incorporated throughout the indoor and outdoor

kale, as well as aji de gallina – a Peruvian classic

areas. The finishing touch is provided by the

of spiced, creamed chicken. Izard also plans to

Downtown Los Angeles skyline, visible from

add seasonal speciality dishes throughout the

every angle thanks to the wraparound glazing.

Booking Office 1869 St Pancras Renaissance LONDON Station-side dining gets a glamorous makeover in London’s King’s Cross neighbourhood.

Words: Shanna McGoldrick Photography: © John Carey (unless otherwise stated)

I

nternational travel might have lost some of its allure over the last two years or so, but there isn’t so much as a hint of perturbance at Booking Office 1869. Instead, the

destination restaurant and bar, which pulled up to the station at St Pancras Renaissance Hotel in London’s bustling King’s Cross last November, is a tribute to the time-honoured romance of voyaging.

Under the generously creative eye of the hotelier and developer Harry Handelsman – whose Manhattan Loft Corporation portfolio also includes the British capital’s hotspots Chiltern Firehouse and The Stratford – the hotel’s cathedral-like restaurant space has been revamped into an all-day, late-night dining, drinking and dancing spot that almost defies categorisation.

“In the midst of Covid, I just thought, why don’t I create something amazingly glamorous?” explains Handelsman of the new venture. “I believe I have one of the most beautiful buildings in London, but I really felt like the former restaurant didn’t do the architecture justice. It was very nice and a commercial success, but lacked glamour.”

It’s certainly no longer in short supply. Booking Office 1869’s high windows look onto the platform of London’s international rail hub, giving diners tableside views of the trains gliding by on their way to and from mainland Europe, carrying the promise of sunlit terrasses and leafy boulevards.

But even the most committed trainspotter would struggle to tear their eyes from the venue’s captivating interior,

052

MAIN COURSE

© Michael Sinclair

053

054

MAIN COURSE

The menu combines familiar brasserie classics with elegant and surprising flavour combinations

moulded and reconfigured by the Franco-Mexican

spicy tartar sauce. For feasting, the slow-roasted lamb

designer Hugo Toro into a breathtakingly bold homage

shoulder cooked in chermoula spices fits the bill –

to both the building’s Neo-Gothic Victorian heritage,

it’s designed to serve two but could easily feed four.

and to the nostalgic charm of globetrotting. The room

One of Powell’s favourites is the cured salmon with

is dominated by multiple eight-metre high palm

potato rösti, sesame, citrus and seaweed, which he

trees that stretch up to the ceiling in a nod to the

cites as an example of how an approachable dish can

Victorian penchant for winter gardens; a tropical touch

be elevated with seasoning and texture. “The idea is

reinforced by the presence of a turquoise bamboo-

that the salmon is cold and the potatoes are hot and

clad 22-metre bar that runs the length of the room,

crispy,” he explains. “I think it’s quite a clever, fun

encircling the station’s original ticket office.

thing to eat, and the flavour profiles are unexpected.”

The fabrics and patterns are lively and eccentric,

It’s a free-spirited culinary offering, and one that

based on a colour palette of plush teals, deep blues

suits the venue’s uninhibited surroundings. “I went

and spicy reds that was inspired by the hotel’s historic

a bit wild with the menu, in the sense that it’s not

grand staircase. Victorian architectural details brush

constricted by anything,” says Powell. “It had to cater

up against Seventies-style arc lamps and enormous

to everyone and be very versatile, because it’s a hotel

pendant lights – each composed of 267 brass leaves

bar at the end of the day.”

– while the floor space is arranged into large booths,

Indeed, slotted between a fashionable hotel lobby

intimate tables for two and shared dining spaces that

and an international train station, Booking Office

make the room simultaneously intimate and convivial.

1869’s location makes for a varied clientele. “It’s quite

“I want people to feel wonderful when they’re

interesting looking at the crowds at night time; people

here,” says Handelsman. “As your eyes drift through

are very glamorous and dressed-up, but then there’ll

the space, you see so many details of the design – it

be an old lady reading a newspaper in the corner,” says

feels comfortable yet exciting.”

Powell. “I quite like that. There are business lunches

It’s an oxymoron that could also be applied to the

during the day, hotel guests for breakfast in the

menu, which was overseen by acclaimed chef Patrick

morning, and then come night time, the atmosphere

Powell, who helms the city’s beloved eatery Allegra at

takes on a clubbier vibe.”

The Stratford. The culinary offering combines familiar

A similar level of adaptability needed to be built into

brasserie classics with elegant and surprising flavour

the drinks list, which has been meticulously curated by

combinations, adopting an international outlook that

Bar Manager Jack Porter, formerly of The Mezzanine

encompasses Japanese seasoning, Peruvian inspiration

at The Stratford and The Library Bar at The Ned. His

and Middle Eastern influence. Highlights include juicy

non-alcoholic and cocktail menus draw heavily on the

barbecued carrots served with braised grains, yoghurt,

heritage of the building, celebrating the achievements

pistachio and dukkah, as well as a silky cashew

and values of Victorian design.

hummus, which is cut through with pickled and raw

“I chose to look at the materials involved during

radish and dished-up with a soft boiled egg. There

that era of architecture: mainly steel, copper, wood

are tender tuna skewers dressed with daikon, white

and glass,” says Porter. To that end, glass and copper

soy and miso, and a relaxed fried fish sandwich with

decanters top the bar, while the house martini is

055

MAIN COURSE

© Michael Sinclair

056

served in individual glass carafes. The alcohol-

is a nod to the god of travel, while monikers

free mocktail is centred on teas that were

such as The Ol’ Signalman and Arrived on

popular during the period, which are balanced

Time are a wink to the trackside location. The

with herbaceous ingredients.

Adorer, a mix of Belvedere vodka, hibiscus and

But when it comes to technique, Porter’s

lemon syrup and sparkling, was inspired by the

vision is rooted firmly in the 21st century. With

Victorian tradition of gifting hibiscus flowers to

the help of ultrasonic technology, he fast-tracks

the object of one’s affection. “I had a lot of fun

the ageing process of gin to achieve a depth and

naming the cocktails,” says Porter. “I wanted

complexity of flavour that would usually take up

to make a menu that held up against such a

to four months in a matter of hours. There’s a

beautiful room.”

technicality to the drinks that adds a theatrical

Handelsman concurrs. “The idea was to

flourish to the experience: the team laboured

design something timeless, that represents the

over capturing the ultimate ‘dry’ experience

glory of old and the contemporary of where we

for the martini, while the clear margarita sees

are now at the moment, in terms of St Pancras

the traditional lime juice replaced with a citric

as a gateway to Europe,” he surmises.

solution that makes the liquid completely

With DJs playing late into the night at

crystal clear. “It’s kind of a trick,” says Porter.

weekends and brunch potentially on the cards

“The eye gives you one impression, but then you

for the future, it’s difficult to determine whether

taste it and it’s so familiar.”

Booking Office 1869 is a bar, restaurant,

The ingredients used in the drinks are

or something else entirely. Whatever its

predominantly British, but a thread of

categorisation, it’s a coup: a tribute to bygone

wanderlust still runs thorugh the offering. The

times and faraway places that is, at the same

Hermes Fizz, a spin on a classic gin and tonic,

time, brazenly modern – and utterly Londonian.

IN A BITE Owner: Harry Handelsman Operator: Marriott International Developer: Manhattan Loft Corporation Architecture: Richard Griffiths Architects Interior Design: Hugo Toro Graphic Design: Alexander Kellas, Dror Cohen Menu Consultant: Patrick Powell Head Chef: Andres Garcia Bar Manager: Jack Porter www.booking-office.co.uk

LIQUID GOLD IN EVERY SENSE

Our new 1862 Vienna blend is liquid gold in every sense.

Prestigious 3-star superior taste award at International Taste Institute, it’s the perfect cup to accompany life’s most exquisite moments.

Explore the 1862 Vienna concept!

Scan for more:

www.juliusmeinl.com

Xenodocheio Milos ATHENS Chef Costas Spiliadis applies his ‘less is more’ culinary philosophy to his debut hotel, a gastronomic boutique property in his native Greece.

Words: Heidi Fuller-Love • Photography: © Dimitris Poupalos

W

ith six Michelin-starred restaurants, Greece’s

a luxury yacht. From high thread-count linens to Bulgari

ancient capital has been enjoying something of

toiletries, Spiliadis – a noted perfectionist – was involved in

a culinary renaissance in recent years. So the

curating every aspect of the space. The result is a fusion of

decision by the Estiatorio Milos restaurant chain Founder

elegance and simplicity – an aesthetic that perfectly mirrors

and Executive Chef Costas Spiliadis to open his first hotel-

the Milos ethos.

restaurant venture in the heart of Athens this January was a timely one.

058

This sleek simplicity is reflected in the hotel’s destination fine-dining restaurant, Estiatorio Milos, which is located on

“Returning home is always a special moment,” says

its ground floor. The brand, which was founded in Montreal

Spiliadis, who is known for his pioneering role in promoting

in 1979, has spent decades developing a reputation for elegant

Hellenic cuisine across North America and globally. “Opening

yet unpretentious Greek cuisine with a pescatarian slant, and

Estiatorio Milos in this historic part of the centre of Athens

now counts global outlets in London, Miami, New York, Las

was a special moment in my career.”

Vegas and, most recently, Los Cabos. Seafood is the star of

Housed in adjoining listed Neoclassical buildings that

the show – and at Xenodocheio Milos it takes the limelight at

date back to 1880, with front-row views of the city’s storied

the restaurant’s open kitchen, which features a market stall-

Old Parliament House (now Greece’s National Historical

style display of fish on a generous bed of ice. Spiliadis and his

Museum), the property comprises 35 rooms and eight suites.

team aim to provide diners with the freshest Mediterranean

Its sensitive conversion was handled by A1 Architects and

seafood possible, sourced directly from fishermen, farmers

Dimitris Agiostratitis, while Divercity Architects, whose

and producers located all over Greece.

recent projects also include St Mortiz’s soon-to-open Grace

Inspired by the timeless minimalism of Cycladic art, the

La Margna hotel and the keenly-anticipated Moxy Athens

restaurant’s sheer walls – as white as the lunar landscapes

City, took the lead on the interior design.

of the spectacular Sarakiniko beach on the island of Milos–

Inspired by locally-relevant maritime elements combined

are pierced with high, narrow windows that help to create

with the purity of Cycladic architecture, the light-filled

a sense of intimacy in the vast space. Ancient amphoras

guestrooms feature soaring ceilings, Aegean Sea-blue

and wicker baskets full of fresh-skinned oranges and blush-

statement walls and cosy cushioned window alcoves that

red pomegranates add to the farmer’s market atmosphere,

provide the ideal space for watching the world go by. There

which is reinforced by fishing net-themed ceiling artwork

are statement handcrafted oak headboards, and opulent

crafted by Greek sculptor Dimitris Fortsas. The main dining

marble bathroom counters wouldn’t look out of place on

area is also linked – via a sweepingly magnificent black and

MAIN COURSE

059

Spiliadis’ signature dish is a blini-like pyramid of gently-fried zucchini and eggplant wafers

060

white marble staircase that has become a design

helping him achieve a great deal of success,

signature across all of the Milos restaurants –

with several new international venues now in

to a cosy mezzanine area that features its own

the pipeline. “I am already committed to six

oyster bar.

new Estatorio: downtown Los Angeles, Century

“Across all my restaurants, the dining

City Los Angeles, Santa Clara in the middle of

experience focuses on the food and the

Silicon Valley, Palm Beach, Toronto, Dubai and

tabletop,” says Spiliadis. “I purposely interfere

Singapore,” he reveals.

minimally with the space so that I can avoid

Despite the impressive plans for further

distractions and allow the guest to fully

expansion, the chef’s culinary philosophy

immerse in the experience of the food.” He

remains unchanged. Perhaps because he

adds: “Similarly, in my latest Estiatorio Milos

hails from Patras, a bustling port town in the

in Athens, I left the urban Neoclassical building

northern Peloponnese that is famed for the

intact while I focused on ingredients, food and

quality of its native wine and olive oil, Spiliadis

Greek hospitality.”

prides himself on taking a low-interventionist

Spiliadis started his career in the seventies

approach to the high-quality produce he

with the launch of a pub called Filoxenia in

showcases in his cuisine, wherever possible.

Montreal’s Mile End, which he once told the

“Nature’s ingredients are so beautiful that any

Greek magazine Ellines was a bid to “prove that

attempt to tamper with them is philosophically

Greek cuisine and Greek culture were not as bad

and pragmatically wrong,” he is quoted as

as everyone believed.” He places ‘philoxenia’–

saying on the Xenodocheio Milos website.

a term given to the sacred art of making a

Meals at Xenodocheio Milos begin with an

stranger feel at home – at the heart of every

ode to this trademark penchant for simplicity in

Milos experience. As a formula, it seems to be

the form of a basket of warm, crusty homemade

MAIN COURSE

bread served with a dipping plate of extra-virgin

Spiliadis’ culinary ethos isn’t restricted to

olive oil that is decorated with oregano clipped

the hotel restuarant; guests can also order the

fresh from a potted plant tableside.

fine-dining menu to their rooms, which come

Menu highlights include loup de mer ceviche,

furnished with polished wooden dining tables

which features plump cubes of sea bass tossed

centred beneath statement pendant lights,

in a finely chopped flavoursome dill, mint and

allowing for a more intimate and relaxed

coriander confetti, alongside showstopping

version of the gastronomic experience. Even

dishes such as wild red Madagascar shrimp.

the mini-bars are stocked with locally sourced

Lightly-grilled grey mullet is filleted at the

treats, including traditional jelly-like Mastiha

table, with the briny butter-soft fish married

loukoums sweets from the Greek island of

with a warm tangle of stamnagathi (wild

Chios, dried figs from the coastal town of Kymi,

greens) dressed with lemon and olive oil, and

and a selection of local herbal teas.

served with a citrus-scented glass of organic

Like many prophets returning to their

Malagouzia white wine from the vineyards of

homeland, Spiliadis was initially unsure as

Xristos Zafeiraki in the renowned winemaking

to how his project would be received. “It

Tyrnavos region near Larissa. The dessert menu

is a challenge to persuade Athenians that

is a celebration of the nation’s favourite sweet

Xenodocheio Milos represents genuinely the

treats, with karidopita walnut cake and syrup-

creative synthesis of tradition and modern

soaked baklava both making the cut. Spiliadis’

Greece,” he concludes. “I am very happy to see,

signature dish is a blini-like pyramid of gently-

from the way the restaurant has been received in

fried zucchini and eggplant wafers; the light-

Athens, that this is the case. It is a reaffirmation

as-air vegetable chips are served with a creamy

for my lifelong work.”

yoghurt tzatziki for dipping purposes.

IN A BITE Owner: Intrakat Operator: Epoque Collection Architecture: A1 Architects, Dimitris Agiostratitis Interior Design: Nikolas Travasaros, Divercity Chef: Costas Spiliadis Head Sommelier: George Spiliadis www.xenodocheiomilos.com

061

MAIN COURSE

© Steven Joyce

The Aubrey Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park LONDON An artistic and eccentric twist on the traditional izakaya goes all out on classical cooking techniques and creative cocktails.

Words: Shanna McGoldrick • Photography: © Lateef Photography (unless otherwise stated)

T

he Japanese izakaya is enjoying a moment

immersive. “We really embraced the notion

in the spotlight in London, which appears

of fully transforming the space, making it feel

to have well and truly developed a taste

inherent to British eccentricity,” says Shayne

for the casual drinking and snacking spots.

Brady, Co-Owner of Brady Williams.

Naturally, the British capital has put its own

Located in the basement of the upscale

spin on the trend, taking the laidback concept

Knightsbridge hotel, the venue – which was once

to sophisticated heights, and in February,

a gentlemen’s club – is divided into multiple

Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park threw its hat

distinct and individually decadent areas. Entry

into the ring with the launch of its highly-

is via the bar, a statement structure crafted

anticipated venue, The Aubrey.

from Verde Pavone green marble, while further

The bar and restaurant – which replaces the

exploration reveals a library, salon, a curio

hotel’s cherished eatery Bar Boulud – is being

lounge, private dining room and an omakase

billed as an ‘eccentric izakaya’. A whimsical and

bar – each boasting its own look and catering

romantic ode to the Japonisme art movement

to a variety of clientele. Large tables for groups

that swept across Europe in the mid-1800s,

are countered by intimate nooks and booths that

its name is a tribute to the 19th century British

ensure that duos and solo diners are equally well

artist and illustrator Aubrey Beardsley, who was

looked-after. “The idea was that you would have

closely associated with the aesthetic.

different experiences depending on the time of

The Aubrey is the first UK venture for the

day, and also depending on your mood,” Brady

award-winning Hong Kong-based restaurant

explains of the layout. “It’s also important to

group Maximal Concepts, who worked with

make sure that people in ones and twos feel

interior design studio Brady Williams to create

really comfortable and loved, so oftentimes they

a space that was both transformational and

have the best seats in the house.”

063

064

MAIN COURSE

The Aubrey’s food menu spotlights the classical techniques of edomae sushi, tempura and robata

The architectural bones of the venue have been carefully restored, with reclaimed fireplaces reinstated

capture the eccentricity and genius behind so many of our favourite experiences.”

and cornicing refurbished. This historical authenticity

This plurality extends to the soundtrack, with

underpins an opulent interior that incorporates

Japanese trap music, funk and disco transporting

sumptuous hues, rich textures and charming

drinkers to nights out in Tokyo’s Ginza neighbourhood.

tapestries, wall hangings and specially-commissioned

But when it comes to food, it’s the classical techniques

murals. The colour palette shifts between dusky pinks,

of edomae sushi, tempura and robata that take centre

deep greens and jewel-toned plums and golds, while

stage. Head Chef Andre Camilo’s menu features

surfaces are clad in velvet and marble, with inviting

elevated snacking food such as silky Japanese oysters,

and flatteringly low lighting throughout.

the venue’s own-label caviar and charred, juicy

The London iteration takes its cue in many ways

charcoal chicken karaage with yuzu mayo. There is

from the original Aubrey, which opened its doors at

crab korokke with tonyu béchamel, a wagyu sando and

Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong in 2021 – but while the

a rich, lip-smacking wagyu oxtail and bone marrow

British space doffs its cap to its Chinese counterpart,

fried rice. For hungrier diners, larger plates include

both Maximal Concepts and Brady Williams were keen

premium cuts of Iberico pork and saikyo sablefish

for it to tell its own story.

cooked over hot coals for a deliciously smoky finish.

“The overall design language is a continuation

The sashimi is prepared nigiri-style, with Head Sushi

and expansion of the Hong Kong venue,” says Matt

Chef Miho Sato showcasing fish varieties ranging

Reid, Co-Founder of Maximal Concepts, pointing out

from mackerel and sea bream to eel, while desserts

that the floorplate and original architecture brought

incorporate traditional Japanese flavours and include

contrast. “The spaces have very different light, so

black sesame cheesecake with citrus marshmallow and

they deviated naturally. In London, we’ve also added

comfort food in the form of a fluffy miso soufflé.

a library and a separate omakase bar, which really is a special experience.”

Drinking, of course, is the heart and soul of the izakaya experience, so Bar Director Pietro Rizzo has

Brady was also keen to develop a distinct identity. “I

crafted a menu of signature and seasonal cocktails that

always said it would be a cousin to The Aubrey Hong

spotlight sake and premium Japanese spirits: think

Kong, as opposed to a twin sister,” he explains. To that

sweet potato shochu, wasabi liqueur and umeshu,

end, certain key design elements have been imported

among others. “Japan is a treasure chest for unique

from Hong Kong, such as warm timber tones, patina

beverages and master distilleries,” says Reid. “From

brass and a combination of twisted green and warm

the much loved highball to the lesser known shochu,

amber colourways, which Brady Williams layered

we want to exhibit a menu that explores the flavours

with additional hues such as the aforemenetioned

and experiences found in Japan.” Creative concoctions

showstopping dusky pink. A unique art collection

include The Black Cat, made with Ki No Bi gin, yuzu

brings together Japonisme and the venue’s past as

liqueur and tonic reduction, and Torii – a combination

a gentlemen’s club via an impressive collection of

of rice shochu and homemade grapefruit soda. Should

meticulously-sourced antiques.

none of these fit the bill, the omakase bar’s extensive

Eccentricity runs like a vein through both the

collection of bottles can be relied upon to create

aesthetic and the mood of the venue. “Japan is so

bespoke libations, for a true replica of the Japanese

rich in culture and food,” says Reid. “We wanted to

hospitality experience.

IN A BITE Operator: Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group, Maximal Concepts Interior Design: Brady Williams Brand Identity: Maximal Concepts Head Chef: Andre Camilo Head Sushi Chef: Miho Sato Bar Director: Pietro Rizzo Head Sommelier: Winnie Toh www.mandarinoriental.com

065

MAIN COURSE

Public NEW YORK The evolution continues at Ian Schrager’s Big Apple brainchild, where a moody subterranean playground adds to the drama.

Words: Ben Thomas Photography: Courtesy of Public

F

ew people have made an impact on New

visionary wasn’t about to let the opportunity go

York’s hospitality scene quite like Ian

to waste, and so set about rethinking the Public

Schrager. From the heyday of Studio 54 in

experience. “We didn’t want to reopen with the

the 1970s to the creation of the boutique hotel

same offer,” Schrager explains. “We needed a

movement with Morgans in 1984, the visionary

different energy and fresh ideas, surpassing

has undoubtedly left his mark on the city that

what was there before.”

never sleeps.

As a result, he added the Peruvian restaurant

More recently, Schrager’s focus in the Big

concept Popular, a Cantina & Pisco Bar, and

Apple has turned to Public, the brand he created

an improved fast gourmet food bazaar – all

in 2017 as a ‘luxury for all’ concept, where

overseen by chef Diego Muñoz, who previously

style and service combine with a sense of fun

took Astrid & Gastón in Lima to number one on

for a new kind of indulgence that comes at an

Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list.

affordable price point. The flagship has become

But in true Schrager fashion, he wasn’t

a popular spot among the city’s night owls,

finished yet. Having strengthened the hotel’s

and has also garnered industry recognition,

culinary credentials last summer, the designer

scooping a trophy at AHEAD Americas in 2018

introduced House of X, a subterranean nightclub

for best lobby and public spaces – thanks to

and performance venue that exudes a similarly

an Anish Kapoor-inspired escalator with an

playful personality to Studio 54. And then came

inviting amber glow that transports guests up

Bar Chrystie, a moody cocktail den inspired by

to the lively F&B venues.

The Bar Hemingway at The Ritz in Paris and

Little did Schrager know that three years later

Harry’s Bar in Venice. “Public is a project that

he would be forced to close the hotel’s doors.

will never be complete,” says Schrager of the

But despite the challenges of the pandemic, the

new additions. “We’re always evolving and

067

© Liz Clayman

At Bar Chrystie, a cocktail menu crafted by mixologist Rob Krueger salutes barrel-aged spirits, while a sparkling wine selection has been curated by sommelier Amy Racine

bringing in new things, it’s the very nature of the hotel and what we do.”

What he doesn’t often do, however, is hand over

and the clubs of East Berlin – they’re all in the same

the creative reins – an approach that changed for

zone of benign mayhem. House of X channels that

House of X thanks to forward-thinking nightlife

edgy attitude and provocativeness while adding a

entrepreneurs Anya Sapozhnikova, Kae Burke, Ilan

sense of sophistication.”

Telmont and Justin Ahiyon from Brooklyn events

Sticking with the theme of decadence, jazzy cocktail

venue House of Yes – the psychedelic alter ego to its

lounge Bar Chrystie invites guests into the lobby level

Manhattan counterpart. “It was nerve-racking as we

with rich blue velvet banquettes, crystal candelabras

wanted to improve the hotel but at the same time not

and a crackling fireplace. Here, Muñoz has teamed up

detract from what made it a success in the first place,”

with Michelin-starred chef John Fraser and mixologist

Schrager admits. “I’ve always handled the design as a

Rob Krueger to create bespoke tipples like Carmina

means of reinforcing the Public message. With House

Granada – a blend of tequila, pomegranate, cardamom

of X, it was smart of me to step aside.”

and vanilla – and Black Tie Optional that evoke New

Injecting a decadent character into the dimly-lit

York’s cocktail culture as well as 1920s Hollywood

space, House of X pairs rich leather banquettes with

glamour. “Bar Chrystie needed to have personality,”

Baroque-style elements such as gilded mirrors, which

Schrager confirms. “In a restaurant the food is

purposely create tension with the exposed brickwork.

paramount, whereas in a bar, it’s all about the spirit.

Enveloping the space, floor-to-ceiling theatrical red

It’s much more difficult to design a great bar than to

curtains serve as a backdrop to the carnival-esque

create a great restaurant, because if the food tastes

nightly performances, which Schrager believes give

good, that’s half the battle.”

the club “more depth, longevity and shelf life” in a market now driven by DJ appearances.

068

“The nightclub business has evolved since the Studio 54 days,” he reflects. “Look at Burning Man

The food is certainly a triumph at Popular, described

by Schrager as a “sanctuary in the midst of concrete

MAIN COURSE

© Nikolas Koenig

© Nikolas Koenig

069

MAIN COURSE

© Liz Clayman

070

surrounds” thanks to its jungle-like ambiance

It’s this progressive approach that ensures

and al fresco terrace. The menu is again a

guests return to Public time and time again,

collaboration between Muñoz and Fraser,

allowing them to spend the night in one of the

whose Peruvian-inspired cuisine celebrates the

newly-introduced venues, or hole up in the

nation’s multiculturalism – Incan, Spanish,

calming interiors of the guestrooms. On whether

Moorish, African, Italian, Chinese and Japanese

he has a treasured spot himself, Schrager

influences – through seafood, rotisserie meats

responds: “I don’t have a favourite – they’re

and vegetables, together with a dedicated

like my children! Despite being so different,

ceviche programme and a drinks offer focusing

they all come together as the totality is greater

on Peru’s most iconic spirit, pisco.

than the individual parts. It’s a symbiosis.”

Muñoz oversees the kitchen, cooking up

And he’s right. Though each space takes on a

dishes like wood-fire roasted pollo a la brasa

distinct personality and type of entertainment,

and a New York strip steak, but cuisine isn’t

they combine to create an all-encompassing

the only thing he rustles up. Honouring the

destination, catering to every personality, every

tradition of El Bulli in Catalonia, where he

mood and every occasion.

worked with Spanish chef Ferran Adrià, Muñoz

With more properties in the pipeline including

also prepares cocktails – from pisco sours to a

Los Angeles, Miami and London, Schrager plans

play on the traditional Peruvian highball – as

to build on what he’s created here. “New York is

natural extension of the food.

a blueprint for the Public brand and will serve as

“Our aim for Popular was to develop

a prototype for future openings,” he concludes.

something that is Peruvian in spirit but avoids

“Every hotel will have a completely unique

all the clichés associated with the country,” says

inspiration but encompass the same attitude –

Schrager, hinting at new dishes to come.

elegant, edgy and provocative.”

IN A BITE Owners: Ian Schrager, Steve Witkoff Operator: Ian Schrager Company Architecture: Herzog & de Meuron Interior Design: ISC Design, Bonetti/ Kozerski, House of Yes (House of X) Chefs: Diego Muñoz, John Fraser Mixologist: Rob Krueger F&B Director: Nick Porpiglia www.publichotels.com

VIBES CAN YOU FEEL IT?

WWW.SCHOENWALD.COM

SWA-22-001_ANZ_Supper_EN_236x275+3_RZ.indd 1

23.02.22 12:01

Grace & Savour Hampton Manor WEST MIDLANDS A country estate in the heart of the UK is hoping to redress the imbalance in the food supply chain, one seasonal dish at a time.

Words: Shanna McGoldrick • Photography: © Fjona Hill

I

t’s a blustery February afternoon in the West Midlands countryside, and the kitchen garden at Grace & Savour is putting on a rather muted show. A row of parsnips are

among the roots and tubers peeking gingerly out from beneath the earth, but as Head Chef David Taylor leads guests around the neatly-curated grounds on a guided tour, the walled vegetable patch isn’t giving away many of its secrets.

“You’ll have to come back in summer,” he jokes.

Following the rhythm of the seasons is the central premise at Grace & Savour, which opened this year on the 45-acre Hampton Manor, a self-proclaimed ‘foodie estate’ that has been run by husband and wife James and Fjona Hill since 2008. Thanks to an onsite Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant, Peel’s, and a second acclaimed eatery called Smoke, the property boasts impeccable culinary credentials – matched by a sumptuous design ethos that blends heritage touches with laidback luxuries, resulting in an easygoing country house vibe.

Grace & Savour is the estate’s third food venue, and it might be its most intriguing yet. Set apart from the main house in what was formerly a timber yard, the restaurant is a stripped-back affair overlooking a historic one-acre walled garden planted with fruit, vegetables and herbs, with an

072

MAIN COURSE

073

074

MAIN COURSE

The menu evolves according to what’s in season and what’s available, with the culinary team constantly pushing the boundaries of what they can create

apiary nestled into the far corner. It also comes with

restorative 24-hour stay, guests move cyclically

five plush, generously-appointed bedrooms, designed

between the garden, the restaurant and the bedrooms,

by Fjona and each spotlighting regional artisans and

as the changing light casts sundial-like shadows on

craftspeople. Blessed with high ceilings, natural

the restaurant floor. There’s a tour of the garden,

light and freestanding bathtubs, the bedrooms are a

a luxuriously languid 15-course dinner and, the

calming haven of soft tones, rustic textures and earthy

following day, a laidback workshop in which everyone

hues that root the decor to nature.

recreates a dish from the previous night’s menu,

Because, make no mistake, nature is the headline

cooking and eating their own lunch.

act here. David – who came to Hampton Manor

Working with what they’ve harvested from the

from the triple-starred Maaemo in Oslo – helms the

garden and sourced from trusted suppliers, the

restaurant alongside his wife Anette, in the role of

culinary team perpetually respond to what’s in season

House Manager, and together the two have created

and what’s available. The menu evolves accordingly

a 24-hour immersive epicurean experience centred

in the restaurant’s development kitchen, with staff

around provenance. But this is no ubiquitous farm-to-

constantly harvesting, pickling, fermenting or

table joint: the couple are championing a progressive

preserving, and pushing the boundaries of what they

farming and growing model that they believe lays the

can create.

foundations for a more diverse and naturally resilient

The kitchen garden follows organic principles, and

future, and yields food that is richer in both nutrients

the emphasis on sustainability extends to the supplier

and flavour. Their aim is to help redress the balance in

network: fish, for example, is sourced from fishers

a ‘broken’ food chain that often penalises suppliers, by

using vessels that are a maximum of 10 metres long.

sourcing directly from farmers and producers across

It’s an environmentally sensitive method, but one

the UK, enlightening diners along the way.

that leaves the menu vulnerable to weather-related

If it sounds preachy, it’s not: the focus is still very

disruption, as the boats can’t go out in bad conditions.

much on gastronomy, and guests are free to learn as

“If a storm comes along, there’ll be no fish,” explains

much – or as little – as they like. “We leave room for

David. “We have to take it off the menu.”

people to ask the questions, so they’re not having a

As a business model, it sounds fairly stressful. But

full on discussion at the table,” says Fjona. “I think

it helps that before opening, David and Anette spent

if it provokes curiosity in people and they go away

12 months touring the UK, building relationships with

and learn or read a little more, that for me is a mark

farmers, fishers and growers incorporating principles

of success.”

such as rewilding, diversification, agroforestry and

Grace & Savour’s talents lie, as its name suggests,

arable farming into their work. The experience taught

in the twin philosophies of unexpected generosity

them a lot about the issues faced by producers in the

and unhurried appreciation. Over the course of a

modern food chain system – “we had so many mind-

075

MAIN COURSE

076

blowing moments,” says Anette – and how

leaven is topped with tartare of wild boar from

Grace & Savour could have a positive impact.

nearby Shropshire. It even makes an appearance

For David, whose time at Maaemo instilled in

at dessert, where it takes on the sticky, honeyed

him the art of telling a cultural story through

consistency of cake and is accompanied by

the craftsmanship of food, the tricky moments

silky-smooth brown butter ice cream.

are where the magic lies. “I think that’s what

Grace & Savour’s principles are driving

makes it exciting,” he says. “I find it easy to

a cuisine that seems almost unreasonably

be creative in that situation, rather than when

lavish, and though there are unlikely to be any

you’ve got loads of options.”

complaints from diners, it seems a difficult

It’s certainly paying off. Despite its subdued

road to take. Is it worth it? The response is

appearance, the winter kitchen garden more

unequivocal. “It’s 100% worth it,” says David.

than delivers: an exquisite February tasting

“The produce that comes in has just been taken

menu champions produce in its entirety,

out of the ground. There’s a different level of

featuring gratifyingly crispy Jerusalem

care and love that goes into what we’re seeing.”

artichoke skins filled with artichoke and bay leaf

He adds: “The carrots we receive are a bit

pickle, carrots cooked in their own juices, and a

wonky, but they’re so fresh and flavoursome,

velvety-rich dish of Welsh black beef simmered

you can’t really question it.”

in a sauce of roasted beef bones. Nowhere is

“This is the story we want to tell, to work

the team’s creativity more impressive than in

with nature to really create something special,”

the inventive repetition of ingredients: for one

adds Anette. “We wouldn’t do it any differently.

course, sourdough appears hot and seeded in

We’re undoubtedly going to face challenges that

miniature loaves, served up with a slab of grain-

we’ll need to figure out, but we’re willing to

infused butter; in another, fried sourdough

want to face them.”

IN A BITE Owner / Operator: Hampton Manor Interior Design: Fjona Hill Head Chef: David Taylor House Manager: Anette Taylor Restaurant Manager: Tamsin George www.hamptonmanor.com

DINING

Piece of Cake Afternoon tea is a staple of the hotel F&B experience, but as consumer appetites evolve, operators are getting creative in modernising the much-loved pastime.

Words: Jenna Campbell

I

t’s more than 150 years since Anna Russell, the

sentiment that has surely been strengthened by the

7th Duchess of Bedford, inadvertently invented

behavioural changes brought about by the pandemic.

afternoon tea to quell the hunger pains she

Covid-19 has taken at-home dining to new heights,

experienced between lunch and dinner. She found

making grab-and-go options an even more attractive

that a light meal of sandwiches and cakes suitably

prospect for hoteliers.

curbed her appetite, or so the story goes, and began

In Hong Kong, The Peninsula – first opened in 1928

inviting high society to join her in what soon became

– has been savvy in keeping with the times, having

a quintessentially British social ritual.

transformed its basement into an intimate boutique

Despite its enduring popularity, the format isn’t

and café offering a more informal alternative to the

immune to change. Increased competition, evolving

seated afternoon tea experience. Envisioned by Conran

tastes and a shift in the way consumers shop, dine and

and Partners, the open-plan emporium includes

gather have inevitably led to an overhaul. No longer

a central counter display for take-outs, as well as

seen as a dated tradition for the golden age, it’s the

an area for tastings, a café and a bookstore. “The

desires of the younger generation that are, in part,

Boutique and Café offers a more fluid, immediate and

driving innovation. Owing to to increased spending

relaxed access to a similar level of experience, but in

power and an appetite for the experiential, there’s

a different setting and atmosphere that guests can

been a notable rise in the emergence of alternative

easily dip in and out of,” says Tina Norden, Partner

afternoon tea concepts geared to every demographic

at Conran and Partners.

of hotel guest.

© Calvin Courjon

The new dining-meets-retail space has also been

The shake-up can also be explained by a move

designed to extend the brand’s reach. “Often grab-

towards casual dining and convenience. A 2020 study

and-go or more casual offers – though The Peninsula

carried out by the US marketing practice Culinary

Boutique is definitely a very upmarket version of the

Visions found that 62% of consumers would consider

type – are an entry into a brand, in particular high-end

buying take-away items from a hotel point of sale – a

aspirational ones,” explains Norden. “These smaller,

© Henrik Hui

© Laszlo Sifter

DINING

As operators adapt to evolving consumer tastes, the boundaries of the traditional afternoon tea experience are expanding

more immediate customer-facing elements also allow for some experimentation; whilst they are an extension and reflection of the core brand, these more informal settings can also be a place to test out new flavours, offerings and designs.”

The hotel’s Afternoon Indulgence tea sets feature ceramic Peninsula bears and 3D printed chocolate alongside its famed scones and Deutz Champagne, appealing to a younger audience. Meanwhile, finger sandwiches, artisanal chocolates and seasonal delicacies cater for those on the go. “It’s easy to come in and take-away, or stay and enjoy a coffee, but neither requires a long time commitment,”

“Having become renowned in the city for its afternoon tea offering, La Pâtisserie was a natural progression, allowing city-dwellers to make Aman part of their daily routine.”

HUGO SANALITRO

Designed by Tokyo-based Bond Design Studio, the venue takes inspiration from the hotel with a counter crafted from the same basalt stone found in its cocktail bar. Diners can watch the chefs at work in the glass-enclosed kitchen, which serves as a theatrical focal point to the space. Alongside handmade cakes, breads and French pastries, customers can buy take-away lunch items and celebration cakes packaged in traditional Japanese kōbako boxes. “As the world emerges from the pandemic and begins to turn once again, people’s time becomes more precious – and therefore hotels and resorts are challenged with finding new ways to engage with prospective guests,” explains Sanalitro.

says Norden.

In London, The Berkeley’s Prêt-à-Portea

“A pastry shop allows us to extend our brand

concept – which has famously paid tribute to

to a different type of clientele, who then have

the artistry of Dolce & Gabbana, Burberry and

the potential to become future guests.”

Simone Rocha – continues to attract fashion-

Some hotels are eschewing the traditional

forward afternoon tea lovers. This year

afternoon tea format in favour of a dessert-

however, the hotel has upped the stakes with

focused concept. Earlier this year, The Bulgari

the launch of an in-house patisserie fronted by

Lounge at The Bulgari Hotel London launched

pastry chef Cédric Grolet. As well as offering

a signature Dolci experience, overseen by the star pastry chef and chocolatier-in-residence

two gourmet experiences throughout the day – a ‘petit déjeuner’ breakfast and a ‘goûter’ snack

the body and swivel to support total comfort,

Gianluca Fusto. “When the hotel opened in

menu – diners can purchase Grolet’s famous

encouraging people to linger and take time to

2012, the take-away items from the pastry

trompe-l’oeil fruit and flower delicacies to take

luxuriate in their pastries,” explains Rogers.

counter were very popular straight away,”

away. The lab-like space will also offer globally

“This focus on the consumer experience,

notes Matteo Vanzi, Food & Beverage Manager

exclusive tasting menus, illustrating the variety

crafting the space to make them feel considered,

at Bulgari Hotel London. “When you love a

that creative pastry concepts can bring to hotels.

helped to carry through the hotel’s attention to

brand, you want to take a little home with you,

detail and customer care.”

so many local residents from Knightsbridge,

In fact, Maybourne Hotel Group has already

Kensington, Mayfair and Chelsea pop in to pick

gained recognition for its pastries. In 2020,

Such concepts can also be an effective means

The Berkeley’s sister property The Connaught

of driving brand strategy – as with the new La

opened The Connaught Patisserie, where Ab

Pâtisserie by Aman Tokyo in Japan, a standalone

Focusing on three-ingredient creations, Fusto

Rogers Design drew inspiration from intricately

take-away concept located in the same building

layers flavours boldly and unexpectedly. His

crafted jewellery boxes to create a café-style

as the hotel. “Having become renowned in the

menu encompasses torte, mono porzioni (cakes

extension to the hotel – a more relaxed

city for its afternoon tea offering, La Pâtisserie

for one), desserts and il cioccolato bespoke

alternative to the Afternoon Tea at Jean-Georges

was a natural progression, allowing city-

handcrafted chocolate gems, representing an

experience next door. The interiors take on a

dwellers to make Aman part of their daily

informal yet elevated take on afternoon tea.

frosted pink hue, accompanied by an elegant

routine – whether grabbing a coffee, enjoying

“Crafted at my development kitchen laboratory

marble display counter and a playful sculpted

a light lunch or taking home a delicious cake

in Fusto Milano, the menu I’ve created is

clock that tells the time according to which

for a special occasion,” says Hugo Sanalitro,

entirely unique, developed from finding elegant

freshly-baked sweet has just emerged from the

F&B Director at Aman Tokyo. “While many

new flavour pairings, which provide harmony

oven. “We hung pink, hand-blown crystal lights

guests still enjoy the refined atmosphere of

and balance when added together,” he explains.

over long, supple leather benches in pink and

Afternoon Tea at The Lounge by Aman, there

Highlights include Maya, the chef’s signature

grey and surrounded intimate circular marble

is also demand for our pastries and cakes to be

dish of Tulakalum dark chocolate, Ispica sesame

tables with voluptuous curved chairs that cradle

enjoyed in the comfort of home.”

seeds and caramel, and Sicily, a light, subtle

up something sweet.”

081

DINING

“When you love a brand, you want to take a little home with you.”

MATTEO VANZI

In Tokyo, Aman has opened a new patisserie as a standalone take-away concept that caters to city-dwellers

082

pastry combining the refreshing flavours of

destination for locals and guests,” explains Kerry

fennel and almond. “My minimalist Italian-

O’Connor, F&B Director at Hotel Café Royal.

style patisserie looks very different from

“The pandemic encouraged the hospitality

traditional English pastries and there is less

industry to adapt to new ways of providing

reliance on cream and sugar,” reveals Fusto.

special experiences outside of their venues.

But imaginative doesn’t need to mean

We started offering a delivery service during

informal; at Mayfair’s Hotel Café Royal, two

lockdown and noticed an uptick in revenue.

distinct afternoon tea concepts offer elevated

Even post-lockdown our customers and visitors

culinary experiences. Acclaimed pastry chef

love having the option of experiencing the magic

Albert Adrià, who helms the hotel’s Cakes &

of Cakes & Bubbles at home.”

Bubbles dessert restaurant, is behind one of

For luxury hotel brands looking to stand

them; his diners can indulge in mesmerisingly

out from the glut of independent and artisan

creative sweet treats, from a ‘rose’ made of

bakeries, establishing a balance between

lychee, raspberry and rosewater, to an optical

the nostalgic value of existing afternoon tea

illusion cheesecake made with Baron Bigod

experiences and imaginative new retail-led

cheese, hazelnut and white chocolate. The Oscar

approaches is proving increasingly important.

Wilde Lounge, meanwhile, has partnered with

Harnessing the star power of in-house culinary

the immersive Van Gogh digital art exhibition to

teams and world-renowned pastry chefs will

offer a multi-sensory tasting journey through

continue to raise the bar, but the true challenge

the artist’s seminal works.

will be redefining the scope and scale of the

“Every afternoon tea experience is completely different, each drawing on the hotel’s rich cultural history whilst providing a modern

model in response to evolving consumer appetites in the post-pandemic era.

MyGlassStudio

SIGNATURE

Eton Mess Moreish Fairmont Windsor Park WINDSOR

Eton Mess – perhaps the most symbolically English of desserts

with a sprinkling of chocolate soil along with lemon balm and

– is known for its deliciously chaotic composition, featuring

mint cress for freshness. It is served on a Villeroy & Boch plate

a heady jumble of pulpy strawberries, whipped cream and

created exclusively for the hotel.

crushed meringue. But diners might be surprised to receive

“We looked at what goes into an Eton Mess and how we could

an altogether slicker version at Moreish, the all-day dining

play around with the ingredients to elevate it to the next level,

restaurant at the newly-opened Fairmont Windsor Park.

thinking of taste, texture and presentation,” explains Brega.

Executive Head Chef Mark Brega’s adaptation of the summer classic – which is believed to have emerged from the historic

“We decided to break it down to its basic elements and turn it into a delicately presented dish full of flavour and textures.”

The seasonal pudding will return to the Moreish menu in

and textures of the original, yet is served in a new way. English

late spring, and Brega looks forward to playfully confounding

strawberries are blitzed with cream from Jersey cows to create

expectations when it arrives tableside. “It makes people rethink

a smooth mousse, which is combined with vanilla chantilly

what a dish is all about,” he concludes. “Until they taste it and

cream, coated in a glossy strawberry pectin glaze, and finished

recognise familiar tastes and see what we did.”

© Viktor Kery

Eton College in the late 1800s – retains the spirited flavours

SIGNATURE

Vegetable Garden Tenjin, Roku KYOTO

During Japan’s Edo period, a medicinal plant garden called

hotel’s own garden, the dish is suggestive of a vegetable

Yakuso-en thrived at the foothills of the Takagamine

parfait, arranged to showcase the colours and textures of

mountains, northwest of Kyoto. Today, the region is home

the produce.

to the luxurious new hotel Roku Kyoto and its fine-dining

Ingredients change with the seasons; a spring version

restaurant Tenjin, which is named after the ancient river

might include asparagus, bamboo shoot and rape blossom,

that cuts through the district. Helmed by Chef de Cuisine

while summer diners will feast on tomato, zucchini, mint

Akira Taniguchi, Tenjin uses seasonal ingredients to pay

and rosemary. Lyophyllum shimeji mushrooms and Kyoto

tribute to the motifs of nature, art and cuisine – and to

eggplant take centre stage in the autumn, and lotus root

continue a tradition established centuries ago.

and ebi-imo make an appearance in the colder months.

Historically, vegetables harvested from Yakuso-en

“We carefully choose the method for cooking depending

were offered to the shogunate. At Tenjin, Taniguchi pays

on the type of vegetable in order to bring out their best

tribute to the custom with his signature dish, aptly named

natural flavours,” explains Taniguchi. “This could mean

Vegetable Garden. Featuring seasonal Kyoto vegetables,

boiling, grilling, or serving them fresh. Guests should be

as well as edible flowers and fresh herbs grown in the

able to taste the beautiful seasons of Japan on the plate.”

SIPPING DINING

Shaking It Up Tradition meets innovation at London’s grand dame hotels, where a new generation of mixologists are shaking up the cocktail scene.

Words: Jenna Campbell

L

ondon certainly knows a good

Best Bars ranking for the second year running

cocktail: after all, it has a drinking

– a testimony to the enduring appeal of its

history stretching back centuries, and

approach, which includes the famed martini

a rich lineage of some of the most

trolley from which concoctions are crafted

recognisable bars in the world. Little

tableside using the hotel’s own gin. But it isn’t

wonder, then, that some of its best

the only long-established British hotel bar to

are to be found in the capital’s most prestigious

shine bright in the annual rankings; Artesian

grande dame hotels, which cater to the classic,

at The Langham and The American Bar at The

the contemporary, and everything in-between.

Savoy have both held the title in the last decade.

These historic watering holes lay claim to

When it comes to hotel cocktail bars, then,

some of society’s most famous libations,

older really can mean wiser. But decades

from the original ‘shaken, not stirred’ Vesper

of experience and cultural heritage haven’t

Martini conceived at Dukes Bar, to the Hanky-

rendered London’s treasured drinking dens tired

Panky, created by Ada Coleman at The Savoy’s

– quite the opposite. In a metropolis straining

American Bar in 1903.

with the creative, the fun and the avant-garde,

Of course, a top-class drinking establishment

no establishment can afford to rest on its

requires a great deal of ingredients: ambiance,

laurels – not even the grandes dames of the

menu, service and surroundings are all crucial.

city’s illustrious hospitality scene. Thanks to

But for many there’s also a certain imperceptible

a raft of shrewd, skilful and adroit bartenders

artistry to the finest venues that sets them apart

and mixologists, the city’s most storied bars are

and holds them steady through the tests of time.

often, these days, among its most innovative.

Perhaps nowhere is this more evident that

Here, Supper sits down to speak with the

at The Connaught Bar – the pre-eminently

fresh faces at some of the capital’s oldest

popular Art Deco drinking den nestled into the

establishments, charged with pushing the

prestigious Mayfair hotel of the same name.

boundaries of bartending to keep their edge in

In 2021 it took the top spot in the World’s 50

one of the world’s most competitive bar scenes.

SIPPING

Giulia Cuccurullo Head Bartender Artesian, The Langham

“We feel that building a strategy to win awards

to the table,” says Cuccurullo. “It uses rum, a

is not the best course of action,” asserts

distillate made with chocolate malt and mezcal

Giulia Cuccurullo, Head Bartender of Artesian,

and some bitters, plus a layer of coconut cream

The Langham London’s flagship drinking

with a little bit of lime grated on top.”

establishment. “We naturally always keep

And while the menu includes a dedicated

an eye on the competition, but we think that

sustainability section, Cuccurullo’s commitment

most of all it’s important to look inwards, to

to the issue is much more than a box ticking

establish how we can translate our creativity

exercise. “For me, sustainability is something

and passion for cocktails and hospitality into a

that needs to be considered regardless,” she

drinking experience that is enjoyed by seasoned

says. “It doesn’t need to be shouted loudly but

aficionados as well as hotel guests popping in

it always needs to be considered.” She adds: “In

for a drink after dinner.”

the case of Treat Yourself 2.0, we use techniques

Following in the footsteps of Marco Corallo

where the only wastage is in the solid part,

and Remy Savage, Cuccurullo, an architecture

which is created when we separate the liquid

graduate from Naples who joined Artesian in

from the yoghurt and strawberries. That part

2018 and was promoted to Head Bartender

doesn’t go to waste though – we dehydrate it

in 2021, brings a fresh approach to cocktail

and blitz it to decorate the glass.”

making; one that is rooted in a respect for

As well as employing the latest bartending

balance, form and structure. “I like to create

techniques – think centrifuging, distillation

drinks that look effortless,” she says. “My

and vacuum-sealing – to create Artesian’s

style could be described as quite simple with

contemporary menus, Cuccurullo keeps her

presentation that is easy-on-the-eye, but at

finger on the pulse of consumer preferences

the same time a lot of thought has gone into

in wake of the pandemic. “Sugar content on

it. I also like to find ingredients that are not

menus is something I have noticed recently, and

commonly paired together or, if they are, I aim

it relates to how guests are now drinking,” she

to build on that.”

explains. “Before the pandemic, there wasn’t

While she may not be chasing awards, her

as much interest, but now we have people

drinks are certainly prize-worthy. A shining

enquiring about calorie content, so that can be

example is Artesian’s 2021 Connections menu,

taken into consideration. We’ve also had a big

which was inspired by the shared experiences

increase in requests for non-alcoholic versions

that brought the UK together during successive

because people are now more conscious of what

lockdowns. Divided into five sections – Wellness

they’re eating and drinking, where ingredients

& Mindfulness, Celebration, Community,

come from and how things taste.”

Sustainability and Happiness – the drinks list

This year Artsesian will launch a follow-up

encompasses a variety of serves and ingredients

to its showstopping Connections menu, and

from low- and no-ABV variations, as well as

while Cuccurullo remains tight-lipped about

CBD-focused concoctions and upcycled drinks

the finer details, it promises to respect themes

created using produce from the hotel kitchen.

of the past, while also focusing on the future.

From the joyful Treat Yourself 2.0, an homage

“We work hard to develop drinks that surprise

to strawberries and cream featuring Grey

and delight,” she reveals. “We are currently

Goose, strawberries, Regal Rogue Rose, milk

looking at what makes Artesian, Artesian, and

punch and Taittinger Rosé Champagne, to the

want our new menu to be a translation of that.

decadent Layer Cake, an assembly of dark rum,

Watch this space.”

stout syrup chocolate malt and whipped cream, each cocktail brings its own sense of identity.

“Layer Cake is one that I really like to make, as it’s so satisfying to look at when you send it

090

“We work hard to develop drinks that surprise and delight. We are currently looking at what makes Artesian, Artesian, and want our new menu to be a translation of that.”

SIPPING

Angelo Sparvoli Head Bartender Sofitel St James

In January, Sofitel London St James announced

For his new menu, Sparvoli plans to build on

the appointment of Angelo Sparvoli as Head

the success of the bar’s current Imagination

Bartender at St James Bar, a decadent and

offering, which uses unique flavour profiles,

intimate cocktail destination in the heart of

molecular techniques and sustainable processes

London’s West End. It signalled the latest

to create a sensory cocktail experience. “We

chapter in an adventurous career for the Italian-

are looking at bringing in some new tools

born bartender, whose professional journey

and trending techniques, which will allow

began in his home region of Le Marche and has

us to express our creativity at best, such as

since taken him around the globe in pursuit of

fermentation and ultrasonic infusions, with a

fresh inspiration, flavours and connections.

focus on sustainability,’’ explains Sparvoli. “I

After developing his craft in Italy and Portugal,

believe that there can’t be innovation without

Sparvoli joined the team at The American Bar

tradition. Future menus will feature drinks

at The Savoy in 2016, progressing from barback

inspired by some of the all-time classics,

to bartender under Bar Manager Declan McGurk

giving people the chance to relate new and

and Head Bartender Erik Lorincz. During this

innovative drinks to their taste and usual choice

time, the venue garnered multiple awards,

of cocktails, making the process easier.”

winning World’s Best Bar at the Spirited Awards

Keeping tabs on the wider drinks industry and

in 2018 and taking the number one spot at the

the categories expected to grow in popularity

World’s 50 Best Bars 2017 edition. While at The

is par for the course. Sparvoli believes that the

Savoy, Sparvoli travelled extensively, spending

ready-to-drink, sherry and mezcal categories

time researching and building on his knowledge

are the ones to watch. “People used to be a little

in locations such as the US, Peru and Japan.

scared of tequila but our role is to help people

“I believe travelling gives you a different

understand that it can make for a great drinking

perspective of how things are done, especially

experience,” he notes. “I also think sherry will

in the bartending community,” says Sparvoli.

become more popular; it’s something I see every

“I’ve been to New York, Washington and New

day and even more in cocktails. I personally love

Orleans and each place has its own way of doing

it – it’s an incredibly versatile product to use

things. I was also really impressed by Peruvian

as it brings a nuttiness and minerality that has

culture when I visited Lima in 2018, particularly

a little body.”

the way it has influenced the F&B scene. As a

The mixologist also believes the future of bars

bartender, I feel it’s really important to travel

will be defined by striking the right balance

and see how others work.”

between theatrical drinks made for social media

St James Bar’s soft lighting, antique mirror

and the more refined classics on which many

tables and rich mohair velvet banquettes set the

famed London bars built their reputations.

tone for a highly refined drinking experience,

“I can see from my own research that tastes

and one that Sparvoli is hoping to take to the

are returning to more classic drinks – I think

next level. “We bring to the table some of

we’ve reached a peak with the experiential,”

the latest trends in terms of cocktails, with

says Sparvoli. “I don’t necessarily mean simple

the objective of making the guest experience

in terms of preparation, but neat and clean,

entertaining and pleasant, without going too

serving drinks in elegant glassware with ice and

technical with the risk of being overwhelming,”

a garnish that isn’t too out there. Because of

he says. “I strongly believe that a good bar is

the increasing number of low- and no-alcohol

first and foremost about people, with cocktails

options there will be a lot of preparation, but I

being the tools that deliver an experience. We

believe it will be much more straightforward – a

aim to provide a friendly yet professional service

return of sorts to minimalism.”

to make people feel comfortable and guide them through their choices.”

092

“I strongly believe that a good bar is first and foremost about people, with cocktails being the tools that deliver an experience.”

© Tom Elms Photography

SIPPING

Nathan McCarley-O’Neill Director of Mixology Claridge’s

Nathan McCarley-O’Neill earned his stripes

the archives looking at past dinner parties,

heading up cutting-edge bars on both sides

menus and everything you could imagine

of the Atlantic, working as bar manager at the

about Claridge’s and produced this beautiful

former Mondrian London’s Dandelyan and The

book, giving a timeline from when Claridge’s

NoMad New York before taking up the role of

Bar opened 30 years ago right through to The

Director of Mixology at the legendary Claridge’s

Painter’s Room,” reflects McCarley-O’Neill.

in May 2021. The Belfast-born drinks specialist,

As you might expect of someone named

who also became Assistant Director of Food &

World’s Most Experimental Bartender at the

Beverage at the hotel in 2021, has wasted no

Glenfiddich Global Competition and Bartender

time in re-ingratiating himself in London’s

of the Year 2017 at Heaven Hill’s National

fast-paced bar scene, taking the reins at the

Bartender competition, McCarley-O’Neill takes

property’s bars The Fumoir and Claridge’s Bar.

innovation very seriously. How does this extend

He has also successfully overseen the launch

to Claridge’s? Thoughtfully-considered low-

of the hotel’s first standalone cocktail bar in

and no-alcohol options are one example. “I

more than 25 years, The Painter’s Room, which

wanted to make sure non-alcoholic drinks are

opened last September and approaches its

looked at with the same focus and threshold

drinks through a European prism. “We wanted

as alcoholic drinks,” he says. “Instead of

to highlight how important Europe has been

replicating the feeling of alcohol, we’ve looked

from a drinks perspective, because when you

to create drinks that are completely original

look back at cocktail history it’s geared towards

and taste different from alcohol, because what

the United States, yet a lot of ingredients come

I find when I’m not drinking is that I don’t

from Europe,” explains McCarley-O’Neill.

want to have the reminiscence of alcohol. I want

The drinks menu at The Painter’s Room sees its four chapters – Light, Interpretations,

complex and stirred down.”

Complex and Clean – draw inspiration from

He also has sugary cocktails in his sight. “I’ve

European art, culture and design. “One of our

been researching how sugar affects the body

signature cocktails is Almost A Bellini, which

and to what extent each type is digested,” he

we created to focus more on rosé wine and the

says. “We’ve been looking at whether we can

peach flavours within,” notes McCarley-O’Neill.

work with sugar that occurs naturally in fruit;

“We use a wine from Provence made by Château

through cooking, reducing, dehydrating and

La Coste, flavour it with peach, and carbonate it

distilling we can make something that doesn’t

to achieve the same effervescence, texture and

necessarily have the sweetness, but a textural

feeling as drinking champagne.”

element within the drink that brings something

As well as developing new menus for The

quite unique.”

Painter’s Room and The Fumoir, McCarley-

There’s no slowing down for 2022, either:

O’Neill wrote and edited ‘Claridge’s: The

this year will see the launch of Claridge’s Gin,

Cocktail Book’, which launched last autumn.

a project McCarley-O’Neill worked closely on,

Spanning 150 years of expert mixology and

selecting everything from ingredients to the

400 recipes, this boozy bible is an ode to the

label and bottle cap design. “We wanted to do

hotel’s enduring reputation for crafting the

something in the nature of Claridge’s, taking

most drinkable concoctions. From icons such

into account the last 100 years of history to

as the Martini and Brandy Crusta to newer in-

produce a tipple that can be toasted over the next

house classics like The Flapper – the signature

century,” he notes. “What makes Claridge’s so

Crème de Cassis-spiked champagne cocktail

special is that when you walk in, it’s always so

created for the unveiling of Claridge’s Bar in

welcoming, you can feel the history within.”

1998 – the book pays homage to the hotel’s cocktail making legacy. “We went back through

094

something that’s beautiful and refreshing, or

COMPLEMENTING AWARD-WINNING GIN WITH INGREDIENTS FULL OF ICELANDIC AND ENGLISH SUMMERS. IS IT MADNESS OR GENIUS?

THE MOST AWARDED GIN BRAND SINCE 2004 @martinmillersgin www.martinmillersgin.com

Enjoy Martin Miller's Gin responsibly

COCKTAIL

Passionate The Bar Aman Venice VENICE

“The great art of life is sensation,” wrote the eminent Romantic, Lord Byron. It is an edict taken seriously by The Bar at Aman Venice, a sumptuous canalside drinking spot that serves as an homage to the legendary English poet. Each beverage on the menu draws inspiration from the eccentricities of Byron’s character, but none epitomises the wordsmith so succinctly as its masterpiece cocktail, Passionate. A combination of London Dry Gin, lychee liquor, lemon juice and rose syrup, Passionate is crafted using the traditional shake-and-strain technique, before a cold smoker is employed to create a rose vapour that acts as the finishing flourish.

“When we serve this cocktail to our guests, we open a glass bell jar in front of them so they can fully appreciate the perfume effect of the rose before drinking,” explains Aman Venice’s Head Mixologist Antonio Ferrara. “It’s wonderful to see their surprise and delight as the scented smoke pours out of the bell jar as if by magic.”

The coalescence of sweet and acidic flavours makes for an invigorating concoction, and as Ferrara points out, Passionate’s low alcohol content makes it an approachable and appealing choice for many. An alcohol-free version that replaces the gin and liquor with Seedlip Groove and lychee syrup is also available, meaning everyone can partake in the heady experience.

For as Byron himself declared: “Life’s enchanted cup sparkles near the brim.”

COCKTAIL

Crystal Healing Sweeties The Standard LONDON

At Sweeties, London’s new Seventies-style cocktail spot, it isn’t just the modish velvet sofas, leather banquets and giant disco ball bringing the good vibes: the drinks list has been designed to chase away the blues, too.“We’re currently exploring the medicinal properties of different plants and foods,” explains mixologist Jack Sotti, who, along with his colleague Todd Austin, has curated a beverage offering that focuses on mood-boosting ingredients and energising adaptogens and nootropics. Take Crystal Healing – a reimagined whisky highball inspired by the rugged coast of Scotland. The vivid blue cocktail opens up with an ocean-like saltiness, thanks to a base of whisky that has been infused and distilled with the seaweed pepper dulse. The concoction is livened up by a dash of citrus cordial featuring concentrated bergamot – which adds a floral note – and filled with electrolyte-rich blue spirulina and coconut ice. It is then topped with a ‘sea salt foam’ created by using a foaming agent with coconut, bergamot, salt and water, to accentuate the existing flavours.

The potential benefits are multifold; in addition to Crystal Healing’s cosmic appearance, studies suggest that bergamot may help reduce anxiety, inflamation and fatigue, while pepper dulse is an iodine-rich antioxidant. Coconut water moderates blood sugar and maintains hydration levels, and blue spirulina is a rich source of nutrients. It also happens to be as refreshing as they come – or, as Sotti puts it, “like having a dram in a rock pool”.

D RINK S RES P ONS IB LY

RCS : B 482 283 694 - Mars 2022

PREISS IMPORTS 760-789-9000

RUMRYE BOLD, WITH NOTES A CANDIED FRUIT AND ORANGE BLOSSOM

NOW AVAILABLE ON

WWW.PREISSIMPORTS.COM ORDERS@PREISSIMPORTS.COM

WWW.RONCOLONSALVADORENO.COM @RONCOLONSALVADORENO @RUMRYE100

DRINKS

Martin Miller’s Gin Summerful Gin With the Spring/Summer 2022 season on the horizon in the northern hemisphere, Martin Miller’s Gin is presenting a new limited batch of its first-ever seasonal variant. Known as Summerful, the tipple is created from the same blend of Martin Miller’s Original Gin – a signature balance of citrus and juniper – with added freshness that encapsulates the season.

A third distillation of botanicals from England and Iceland – including Arctic thyme and rosemary – is added as a further homage to the brand’s dual heritage, which sees its English distilled gin blended with the purest Icelandic spring water. To the nose and confirmed by the palate, Arctic thyme brings a floral bouquet and distinctive earthy notes with hints of citrus and mint, and combines perfectly with the fresh flavour of lemon and pine aromas found in rosemary. Ever since the gin’s inception, transformation, experimentation and the pursuit of excellence have been at the heart of the brand; Martin Miller’s Summerful Gin is an illustration of how it continues to innovate in an ever-changing sector, whilst remaining true to these values. www.martinmillersgin.com

101

DRINKS

Consorzio Tutela Prosecco DOC and Prosecco DOC Rosé A representation of Italian excellence, Consorzio Tutela occupies a distinct territory stretching between Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia; it is rich in tradition with a favourable climate that gives the Glera grapes unique elegance, balance, and contemporary flair.

Prosecco DOC Rosé is a combination of Glera (minimum 85%) and Pinot Noir grapes (between 10 and 15%). It boasts the title Millesimato due to containing more than 85% of grapes of the vintage declared, and is produced sparkling and dry, from Brut Nature to Extra Dry. Prosecco DOC has built an identity by embracing its territory’s history and traditions, with olfactory elegance and moderate alcohol key to its continued commercial success. Consorzio di Tutela – the consortium for the protection of Prosecco DOC – works diligently to promote and protect the uniqueness of the DOC denomination. The group boasts 24,450 hectares of vineyards, 11,609 grape growers, 1,169 winemakers and 347 sparkling wine houses for a yearly total production of 627.5 million bottles, of which 71.5 million are Prosecco DOC Rosé. www.prosecco.wine

Gin d’Azur Gin d’Azur was created by master distiller Paul Caris in 2019 to capture the flavours and feelings associated with the Côte d’Azur. Taking inspiration from the famous beaches of southern France and inspired by the landscapes of Provence, Gin d’Azur is bursting with botanicals found in the region. Packed full of juniper, lavender, thyme, marjoram, star anise and rosemary from the fields of Provence together with Menton lemon peel and Sel de Camargue from the mouth of the Rhône, the spirit captures the essence and personality of the region. Each Provencal ingredient is harvested at its optimum ripeness and aromatic peak, distilled separately in copper pot stills over an open flame and then blended to form a distinctive and flavoursome product, a distillation process more common with Scotch and Cognac. www.gindazur.com

102

THE PERFECT SCORE AWARDED TO 2016 GRANGE

BY WORLD OF FINE WINE MAGAZINE Our flagship, Grange has been awarded over 25 perfect scores from global wine critics.

MEET EXTRAORDINARY

DRINKS

104

Avión Avión Reserva Cristalino

Nyetimber Nyetimber Classic Cuvee Multi-Vintage

Pernod Ricard is tapping in to the soaring demand for prestige tequila by expanding its exclusive Reserva range with the launch of Avión Reserva Cristalino – the second release to join the Avión Reserva line-up. Distilled in the highlands of Jalisco, Mexico, using mature, hand-selected agave grown at the highest elevations, Avión Reserva Cristalino is crafted using a unique blend of the finest 12-month-old Añejo and a touch of three-year-old Extra Añejo Reserva. The liquid then undergoes double-charcoal filtration to achieve a clear tequila with a fruity, floral character, which carefully balances the citric nuances of agave with the signature taste and aroma of barrel ageing. www.pernod-ricard.com

A perfect balance of elegance and intensity, the signature wine of Nyetimber is a classic blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, all from Nyetimber’s vineyards and across several vintages. The pale golden hue and fine bubbles make the flagship Classic Cuvee Multi-Vintage the ideal occasion-ready drink – whether it’s toasting a big birthday or simply finishing a busy week. Following extensive ageing in the cellar (usually more than three years), the Classic Cuvee Multi-Vintage has distinctive toasty and spicy aromas. A palate of honey, almond, pastry and baked apples gives it a hint of decadence. The flagship cuvee pairs well with smoked salmon, oysters, scallops, asparagus and sushi. www.nyetimber.com

Drink responsibly There is an entire world of tradition, beauty and style inside every bottle of Prosecco DOC. That’s why Prosecco DOC is more than just sparkling.

The Prosecco DOC Dreamland welcomes you to www.prosecco.wine

To The Table MEA 7-10 March 2022 AJMAN

Decision-makers and suppliers reunite in the UAE to talk all things business and hospitality.

Words: Shanna McGoldrick Photography: © Richard Pereira

106

It was with enthusiastic anticipation that senior

ones forged, To The Table MEA 2022 kicked off

corporate decision-makers and suppliers from

with the first of four seminars addressing the

the Middle East and Africa’s hospitality sector

pressing issues within the region’s hospitality

convened this March, for the first To The

sector. Chaired by writer, editor and media

Table MEA event in three years. The location:

consultant Devina Divecha, each session

Fairmont Ajman, a beachfront destination

featured diverse expert viewpoints and invited

boasting luxurious event spaces and sea views.

audience participation in a lively and immersive

The purpose: getting back to business.

discussion of the issue at hand.

More than 100 delegates congregated for the

Entitled The Culinary Perspective, the opening

invigorating three-day programme of tête-

seminar explored the region’s emerging trends.

à-têtes, industry seminars and networking

On stage were Andreas Krampl, Senior Director

dinners. Returning companies among the 44

of Culinary EMEA at Marriott International;

buyers in attendance included hotel groups

Naim Maadad, Chief Executive and Founder of

Accor, Hilton and Marriott International, all

Gates Hospitality; and Johan Scott Valentine,

of whom were represented by new delegates.

Corporate Director of Culinary at Rotana

Those present at the event for the first time

Hotel Management. The subject of food waste

included Jumeirah Group, Radisson Hotel

reduction sparked an enlightening debate, with

Group and Wyndham Hotels & Resorts. On the

Maadad stating: “This is not about food saving –

supplier side, Craster, Pernod Ricard, Steelite

it’s about saving humanity.” The environmental

and Villeroy & Boch were among the returnees,

impact of the breakfast buffet also came under

while Drinique, Modbar and Mogogo attended

scrutiny; asked about the future of the model,

for the first time.

Krampl highlighted an opportunity to focus on

After the initial buzz of a welcome dinner

smaller, fresher buffet menus, while Valentine

that saw old friendships reignited and new

emphasised the possibility of integrating live

EVENTS

cooking stations for a more targeted dining

offerings across the region. “Dubai is at maturity

final seminar – a pertinent topic, given the

experience. The trio also explored incorporating

and costs are not decreasing,” commented

sector’s current worldwide staffing shortages.

cloud kitchens within the hotel F&B model, and

Chalfoun. “Smaller, more efficient concepts

Inspiring the Next Generation of Hospitality

underlined the growing importance of compact

that offer a more focused approach is the only

Professionals saw David Singleton, Coach,

kitchens designed to handle multiple concepts,

way to go.”

Strategic Advisor and Partner at Socius Group,

particularly in an economic landscape that

Sustainable Strategies for a Changing

Michael Kitts, Director of Culinary Arts at The

Landscape was the topic of the third seminar.

Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management,

An engaging second seminar titled The Roaring

Jeffrey Smith, Vice President of Sustainability at

and Greg Wright, Co-founder and Managing

20s: Hospitality Trends and Projections for the

Six Senses; Philip Halanen, Head of Sourcing and

Partner at Food People, offered their thoughts

Decade Ahead saw Christian Abell, Founder

Sustainability EMEA at Wyndham; and Shahbaz

on how to motivate and attract the next

and Creative Officer at Architaste, and Joseph

Tiavar, Vice President Procurement Global at

generation of regional talent to the industry.

Chalfoun, Area Restaurants & Bars Director

Accor, discussed the complexities involved in

With the majority of the UAE’s workforce falling

MEA at Radisson Hotel Group, put forward their

introducing truly sustainable practices into

into the millennial age category, the topic of

analysis of the seismic shift in the hospitality

F&B supply chains within the region. Smith

opportunities for F&B businesses to adapt to a

sector over the last two years, and looked to

and Tiavar both pointed to the efforts their

candidate-driven market sparked an engaging

the future to pinpoint emerging narratives.

respective brands are making to tackle waste,

and wide-ranging discussion that touched on

The duo explored the importance of flexibility

with Accor committed to eliminating single-

the importance of long-term rewards, equity

in front-of-house design in a fast-moving F&B

use plastics by the end of 2022, and Six Senses

share to boost employee investment, and better

landscape, emphasised the enduring importance

aiming to become completely plastic-free

work-life balance. And with that, it was off for

of social media and touched on the burgeoning

within the same timeframe. Halanen underlined

a final evening of dinner, drinks and discussion.

trend for homegrown concepts being exported

the importance of data in driving sustainability,

internationally. Once again, ‘building smaller’

from communicating the benefits of new

was a key takeaway, with both professionals

practices to suppliers, to tackling greenwashing.

asserting the importance of more streamlined

All too soon it was time for the fourth and

prices space at a premium.

The next To The Table events take place in Bangkok from 4-6 October, and Malta from 21-23 November.

www.tothetablemea.com

107

Machinery that focuses on barista performance is a priority for manufacturers such as Modbar (top) and Cimbali Group (bottom)

The New Machine Age With the coffee machine sector growing globally, we explore how design is adapting to meet the needs of the horeca sector.

T

he 21st century has been a transformative one for

steam wands to allow for ease of movement. The machine

the coffee industry: perhaps no other F&B pillar has

also automatically measures the correct amount of coffee

seen such a dramatic shift in consumer expectation,

grind needed for each cup, minimising the risk of wastage

which has in turn driven rapid technological progress when

108

and human error.

it comes to equipment and machinery. According to the

Another area where efficiency is paramount is hygiene,

market research company Mordor Intelligence, the global

particularly in the post-pandemic era. Cleaning espresso

coffee machine market was valued at US$5.11 billion in 2020

machines can be a complex process and there is risk in the

– a figure projected to rise to US$6.36 billion by 2026 - with

potential for human error that could result in either hygiene

North America currently the largest market and Asia Pacific

lapses, or damage being caused to the equipment. It’s an

in particular driving growth.

issue the German automated coffee machine specialist WMF

The natural parameters of the hotel F&B model make the

is tackling via technology, with a WMF AutoClean solution

horeca sector a natural pioneer when it comes to pushing

that the company first added to its 5000 S+ model last year.

the boundaries of the coffee experience, with hotels and

Billed as the industry’s first fully automatic cleaning system,

cafés accounting for the majority of the global automatic

the AutoClean sanitises both the coffee and milk systems

coffee machine market space. Powered by fast-moving

in accordance with HACCP requirements, without external

developments in technology, engineering and design,

assistance from employees (save one intervention that can

manufacturers are stepping up to meet the needs of owners,

be performed when filling the milk container). An integrated

operators, employees and guests.

timer can be programmed to ensure that the machine starts-

Arguably the most essential currency in the modern-day

up and self-cleans by opening time, with additional options

F&B economy is time – and with coffee consumers demanding

available for programming the necessary after-work tasks.

seamless, efficient coffee experiences that don’t skimp on

With space increasingly at a premium in hotel F&B outlets,

quality, there is little margin for error. Heritage comapny

the need for compact and multi-functioning units is greater

Cimbali Group, which operates globally and manufactures an

than ever: particularly when it comes to full-scale, self-serve

average of 200 machines daily from its production centres

beverage stations in high-traffic areas. To this end, Franke

across Italy, has addressed the issue with its new LaCimbali

Coffee Systems recently launched a compact version of its

M200 traditional coffee machine, specifically developed to

Speciality Beverage Station SB1200, designed to fit into a

enhance barista performance. An illuminated work area

variety of point of sale environments. The fully-automatic

allows staff members to work quickly and accurately, and the

machine includes all the tech-forward features of the original

coffee dispenser units have been placed far enough from the

model (which recently won the Coffee Preparation Equipment

SPOTLIGHT

© Robilant Associati

109

© Ksawery Oroczko

110

SPOTLIGHT

Enhanced hygiene, smaller footprints and inclusive design are being championed by WMF (far left), Franke Coffee Systems (left) and Schaerer (bottom), while Fracino’s Romano model (right) is both attractive and material-conscious

category at the Melbourne International Coffee

the right tone in coffee outlets. Great coffee is

visual guidance through the processes, for a

Expo’s MICE Product Innovation Awards), but

now a guest expectation, and with that comes

frictionless experience.

comes with a smaller footprint, thanks in part

a need for equipment that is accessible, user-

Stylish equipment will always have the edge,

to a redesigned refrigerator area.

friendly and aesthetically pleasing – particularly

and in design-forward F&B spaces, the espresso

in self-serve spaces.

machine is as much a part of the interior as

Space-saving solutions are also a speciality of the US company Modbar, whose sleek

Swiss brand Schaerer has been making inroads

the furnishings. Whether the aesthetic takes the

designs provide a stylish alternative for

in this field, having recently given its signature

form of sleek, contemporary lines or vintage

spaces that don’t suit traditional countertop

Coffee Soul machine a sleek new makeover that

touches, the market has plenty to offer, and – as

machines. The brand’s minimalist espresso

includes the introduction of a ‘Select’ concept

with any hospitality hardware – sustainability is

taps and accessories are centred on the design

allowing owners to customise their interface to

key. British manufacturer Fracino understands

philosophy of clearing the countertop, opening

complement coffee outlets’ individual design.

the importance of attractive and material-

up the bar to give baristas the space to move

The machine comes in two different models

conscious design, having long eschewed

around and focus their energies on providing

– a Schaerer Coffee Soul 10, featuring a 10.4-

plastic trim or panel finishes for its machines,

top-notch customer service. Its Steam System,

inch display screen, and a Schaerer Coffee Soul

and implemented polished or coloured finish

which allows F&B owners to add steam taps

12 with video-capable 12.1-inch display. Both

stainless steel as standard across its product

to the workspace to boost throughput without

models feature an eye-catching Graphical

line. But Romano, its newest development,

the need to purchase additional machinery, is a

User Interface that displays large beverage

takes things up a notch. The machine features

particularly adaptable concept, and the refined

icons to make the process of selecting drinks

a steam valve and filter holder handles crafted

aesthetics of the brand’s product range mean

as visually easy and inclusive as possible for

from real wood, lending it a sophisticated and

that its models grace the F&B spaces of hotels

users. The processes and displays can also be

slightly retro edge that is further enhanced by

internationally, including The Standard London

adapted to work in different modes for guests,

LED edge lighting along the side panels in cool

and Four Seasons Hotel Budapest.

staff and frequent users – taking into account

white or blue. With both style and substance,

Because if there’s one thing that hasn’t

the specific requirements of the respective area

it’s a fitting metaphor for the coffee industry’s

changed, it’s that design remains key to striking

of application, and providing the user with

trajectory as a whole.

111

difference as an evidence Couzon’s designs are instantly recognisable by their unique shapes and luxury quality look and feel.

For the must exigent tables around the world who love modern, exclusive designs, our tactile products perfectly combine form and function for Professionals.

Our stylish collections not only enhance table settings but also create conversation pieces with their unique designs. www.couzon.com

benoit.desoutter@amefa.com

SPECIFIER

PETITS FOURS

Fine2Dine Curvo Inspired by the diversity of the human body – and the body-positive trend that has swept through society in recent years – Fine2Dine’s new Curvo collection aims to challenge pre-existing and established beauty standards. Rather than lean on fine lines and slender forms, the Curvo collection is characterised by bold, graceful shapes enhanced by a dark, earthy colour palette. Each highquality porcelain tableware piece comes finished with a reactive glaze that catches the light and means every product looks slightly different but fits seamlessly into the collection.

Made from extremely strong and durable porcelain, Curvo items add a daring element to the dinner table. www.fine2dine.com

PETITS FOURS

1.

2.

114

3.

1. Monno Modular

2. Bonna Spring

3. Zieher Table-Tree

Combining traditional ceramic production methods with intricate and precise detail, Monno’s Modular collection is the embodiment of the design edict ‘form follows function’. The brainchild of the brand’s Creative Director Billy Lloyd, Modular is an adaptable range of stackable bone china tableware spanning bowls, plates and more, that can be used in a variety of combinations to meet numerous and varied horeca requirements. Stylish and elegant, each item is crafted with finesse and developed with the understanding that a collection’s versatility at the table is a key element in achieveing the optimal contemporary dining experience. www.monno.com

Bonna’s Spring collection brings the freshness and energy of the spring season to professional table presentations. Bright and breezy, the range adds a touch of nature to the drinking and dining experience, breathing life into tablescapes through the use of specially-designed patterns and stylish ivory colourways. As with all Bonna products, each item in the collection meets the requirements of international standards, including edge breakage resistance, sudden heat change resistance, superior light transmittance, scratch resistance and stackability. Bonna Spring, with its calming textures, acts as a symbol of harmony with nature. www.bonna.com.tr

Zieher’s Table-Tree range offers the opportunity to present filigree delicacies in an elegant and surprising manner, even when working with minimal space. Featuring six organic-shaped leaves, the Flower Table-Tree can be used to showcase various desserts, mezzo courses or amuse bouches. Fruit, pastry or pralines can also be arranged on the leaves. The Pin Table-Tree model, meanwhile, is designed for serving finger food or small snacks on six skewers placed at different heights, with each delicacy held securely by an artfully-shaped spiral that prevents slippage.

The 30cm high Table-Trees are completely handcrafted using stainless steel, and polished to a high gloss finish. Both models are suitable for use as part of the buffet, or as an addition to the larger examples of the brand’s Flower-Tree range. A stalwart of the hospitality design sector, Zieher’s extensive product portfolio spans buffetware, catering equipment, serveware, glassware, barware and decorative accessories, placing an emphasis on premium materials such as glass, stainless steel, slate and porcelain. www.zieher.com

PETITS FOURS

1.

2.

3.

116

4.

1. Dibbern Fine Bone China

2. Front of the House Artefact Indigo

3. Craster Link

4. Nude Glass Round Up

At the luxurious Four Seasons Hotel Madrid, the F&B outlets are supplied with customised fine bone china from Dibbern, which has been creating premium tableware pieces at the Dibbern porcelain manufactory located in the Bavarian town of Hohenberg for decades. At Dani, the hotel’s rooftop dining destination from acclaimed chef Dani García, elegant Dibbern pieces in white or Golden Lane colourways decorate the tables. Each of Dibbern’s Fine Bone China collections is manufactured to the highest quality standards using traditional, centuriesold craftsmanship methods and a contemporary design approach, resulting in a superior quality offering. www.dibbern.de

Designed in Miami, Front of the House’s Artefact Indigo collection beautifully combines the organic, hand-thrown feel of one-of-a-kind pottery with the strength and durability of commercial-grade porcelain. This collection combines the art of slow kiln firing with the beauty of reactive porcelain glazes, resulting in a varied colour spectrum that means no two pieces bear exactly the same finish. Indigo’s blue-hued finish warmly complements the range’s raw corners and organic details, and help it to seamlessly merge with any collection.

Front of the House has been dedicated to transforming tabletops for two decades, in more than 80 countries. www.frontofthehouse.com

The new Link table from Craster is a beguilingly sleek and mutable events table. Created to support full F&B services, seated presentations or hospitality lingering points, the range has been designed to complement the brand’s Line system for a seamless aesthetic across and between spaces.

Link features a slender, round leg profile with a central folding mechanism for easy storage, and an intuitive setup that offers three height different options. The system is available in a range of sizes with hygiene-conscious HPL or toughened glass tops, offering flexible, wipe-clean solutions that make it a stylish and practical choice for events spaces. www.craster.com

The Nude Round Up collection is characterised by artfully-rounded silhouettes, enhanced by sweeping vertical lines that create texture and depth. The series encompasses red, white and sparkling wine glasses – all handcrafted from lead-free crystal and designed to enhance taste and flavour.

The flute glass features a gently curved shape, tapered rim, long, slender stem, and eye-catching vertical pattern, while the coupe glass is also decorated with sweeping vertical lines. The simple yet sizeable silhouette of the white wine glass allows wine to breathe, and the red wine glass is shaped to retain the drink’s aromas and flavours. www.nudeglass.com

PETITS FOURS

1.

3.

2.

118

1. Couzon Neuvième Art

2. LSA International Cloche

3. Goodfellow & Goodfellow Narumi Aso and Ena Rock Plate

Over more than 75 years, Couzon has developed a reputation for being a French leader in cutlery and tableware.

From the traditionally elegant to the daringly modern, the brand offers a wide-ranging choice of design-forward cutlery and table accessories. Developed in partnership with the French chef behind double-Michelin starred restaurant Le Neuvième Art’ in Lyon, France, the Neuvième Art collection focuses on comfort of use and purity of design.

An embossed stamp on the tip of the handle highlights the pattern’s individual personality, while the knife features a unique shape that allows it to be balanced on certain objects. www.couzon.com

Luxury glassware brand LSA International is focusing on bringing people together, with Spring/Summer collections centred on the themes of connection and shared moments. Its three-piece Cloche line is particularly stylish: inspired by the contours of tagine dishes, the collection of glass domes has been mouthblown into distinctly different shapes – one curved, one bell-shaped and one conical.

The long, tapered handles create seamless and contemporary silhouettes.

Each dome sits on a base of natural oak that has been sourced from sustainably managed European forests, before being sanded by hand to offer a finish that is soft and smooth. www.lsa-international.com

Forming part of Goodfellow & Goodfellow’s innovative portfolio of stylish tableware for chefs, the Aso and Ena Rock Plates by Narumi are elegant and contemporary plinth and pillow style plates. Inspired by the natural rocks and pebbles found in Zen gardens, the plates come in two different finishes: a delicate textured, matte white with brown speckles and a metallic two-tone rust brown. The smaller 10cm plates are the ideal size for showcasing amuse bouches and hors d’oeuvres served up as part of tasting menus, with the raised plinth working beautifully in combination with the larger pillow plate when used in a presentation arrangement, or singularly as part of a section of smaller dishes. The larger 21cm plate, meanwhile, can easily be used to present starters or desserts. Founded by UK-based husband-and-wife Paul and Valda Goodfellow, the brand specialises in providing design-focused solutions for hotels, restaurants and contract caterers. www.goodf.co.uk

Intelligent Design Exceptional Experiences

FEATURED: LINK TABLE IN GLASS North Building Stand 7257

Shot in Battersea, London, additional furnishings kindly provided by Hay Design, Silvera Official, Modern Art Hire and Hasa Architects Visit us at Craster.com

PETITS FOURS

1.

2.

120

3.

1. Stölzle Lausitz Swing and Twist

2. MyGlassStudio Bento Dinner Plates

3. Schönwald Vibes

Inspired by the exuberance and glamour of the 1920s, German glass manufacturer Stölzle Lausitz’s new release Swing and Twist provides a modern interpretation of the classic champagne saucer. Featuring a distinct cubic shape, the goblet gently merges with the high, filigree-pulled stem, contrasting charmingly with the voluminous opulence of the bowls. The result is that both the large Swing and the smaller Twist glass exude elegance.

Made from lead-free crystal glass, the champagne saucers feature a gracefully thin rim, and are versatile enough to be used for drinking champagne, sparkling wine or showstopping cocktails. www.stoelzle-lausitz.com

With the Bento Dinner Plate set, MyGlassStudio has reimagined the dinner table. This collection of covered dinner plates – which spans soup bowls, appetiser and main course plates – brings together the concepts of both the Asian bento box and the European fine-dining dinner set. Designed for professional use, the collection is oven and dishwasher safe, leak-proof, chlorine bleach resistant and highly durable. Playful and versatile, it can be used to service hotel outlets from in-room dining and meetings to restaurants, bar food, lobby lounges, high tea, and more. Bento dinner plates come in 11 colours, meaning there is sure to be a shade for every interior. www.myglassstudio.com

Schönwald’s tableware pieces are characterised by a simple, elegant design language and stylistic understatement. Its pieces can be used flexibly to adapt to changing themes at the table, making them just as suitable for classic menu compositions as for casual modern dining formats. Manufacturers at the brand’s in-house creative centre translate international food trends into sleek new products crafted from high-quality hard porcelain and filigree noble china.

The brand’s Vibes collection embodies this philosophy, bringing a vibrancy to table settings. The radial design of the relief captures the light, highlighting the warm white hues of the china and playing with long, delicate shapes to draw the eye to what really matters: the presentation of the food. Creating a balance between traditional and modern, the pieces from the Vibes collection have been designed to fit into multiple F&B concepts. www.schoenwald.com

F R E N C H E F S . C O M

Are you looking to collaborate with Top Chefs?

We help you to find the right chef profile for a few days promotions up to a longer partnership.

300 International chefs available for your projects on frenchefs.com

D I S C O V E R

M O R E

PETITS FOURS

1.

2.

122

3.

1. Hoshizaki America Specialty Ice Machines

2. John Jenkins Atlantic

3. Chef & Sommelier Séquence

Bartenders know that ice is an essential part of a successful cocktail programme: being equipped with the right ice options is just as important as having the right spirits, garnishes and mixers. Hoshizaki speciality ice provides optimal chilling with minimal dilution, and its selection of award-winning specialty ice machines offers options for both undercounter or back-of-house placement. The undercounter machines have a small footprint, making them easy to incorporate into whatever space works best for operation. They make ice more efficiently than ice moulds and offer a cost effective alternative to purchasing vendor-made or third-party ice. www.hoshizakiamerica.com

John Jenkins specialises in supplying the hospitality industry with handmade crystal and glass for the table and bar. Founded in London in 1901, the brand’s products can be found in luxury hotels and restaurants around the UK, as well as internationally in cities across Asia, the Middle East and the Americas. Responding to a demand for more specialised glasses, the group’s William Yeoward Crystal brand has supplied hotel chains such as Rosewood, Mandarin Oriental and Four Seasons. Collections such as Atlantic (pictured) and Bella have proven to be particularly popular in high-end dining environments. www.johnjenkins.co.uk

The Séquence collection by Chef & Sommelier is remarkable for its balance. The classic tulip-shaped bowl has been given a modern makeover with this generous yet slender design: well-proportioned and seamless, the leg is just the right length, making it a practical choice for restaurants as well as for wine bars and banqueting.

The complete collection facilitates the optimal tasting experience for all wines, beers and liquors. Each Séquence item is made with Chef & Sommelier’s highperformance, lead-free crystal glass material, Krysta – a material known for its lasting brilliance and shock resistance, as well as its impressive transparency. Chef & Sommelier’s luxurious Krysta and fine porcelain product lines incorporate the expertise of wine tasting with the elegance and the strength of innovative materials.

Its ranges can meet the latest fast-moving culinary trends, from mini portions to wine by the glass and more. www.chefsommelier.com

TOUCHED BY 20 PAIRS OF HANDS

Discover more at denbypottery.com/hospitality For further details please contact: sales.admindept@denby.co.uk Tel: 01773 740700

2203019 Advertisement_Supper Magazine-236x275.indd 1

18/03/2022 16:48

PETITS FOURS

1.

2.

3.

4.

124

1. Rona Linea Umana

2. Mogogo Modular – Pro Bar

3. Absolute Lifestyle Urban Collection

4. Steelite International Forager by Robert Gordon

Representing 125 years of glassmaking skill, leading Slovakian glass manufacturer Rona’s collaboration with the award-winning Italian sommelier Maurizio Dante Fillipi has resulted in a collection that ticks all the boxes when it comes to balancing functionality and sophisticated elegance. Fabricated using the brand’s pulled-stem technology, the ultra-light pieces feature a distinctive flared edge and smooth interior, which has been designed specifically to encourage the release of the drink’s aromas. The Linea range encompasses four wine glasses and two water glasses, each featurung the same soft and generous lines. www.rona.glass

Mogogo’s flagship collection, the Modular System, allows users to employ the same components in a combination of ways, in order to create different product configurations. The Modular Banquet Stations line is composed of the brand’s Classic and Creative range, alongside a large variety of complementary accessories. As with all of Mogogo’s banquet stations, the Pro Bar station has been meticulously designed to strike the right tone between high functionality, durability, and mobility. It features a stainless-steel working surface, an ice bin and a speed-rail, and represents a natural symbiosis between high design standards and practical F&B solutions. www.mogogo-buffet.com

Taking its cue from the fashion world, where accessories are designed to complement garments, Absolute Lifestyle’s accessories aim to complete and enhance a room’s interiors while making a statement. The brand’s products are designed to accentuate brand essence and experience, and with a focus on eye-catching colour palettes and bold patterns, the range shines a spotlight on form, function and aesthetics.

Calibrating and curating the right pieces and understanding the dynamic of how choices best interact with the interiors and guests using the space is a subtle art, and one that Absolute Lifestyle has been mastering for several years. www.alhkg.com

Forager by Robert Gordon is designed with a reactive glaze that free-flows over each shape, resulting in a unique finish that differs slightly between every piece. Featuring an unglazed base, the collection uses exposed stoneware to highlight the rich appeal of raw materials that have been handcrafted into organic-feeling objects. The collection was created by the designer Robert ‘Andy’ Gordon, who compares the line’s signature tray design to “tree bark once used to gather things such as forage seeds, berries, and roots from the forest”.

These enduring and functional shapes are finished with a stamp of Andy’s handwritten signature. www.steelite.com

IN A CLASS OF THEIR OWN

THE No1 CHOICE FOR BARISTAS

ROMANO Style and Quality Our strikingly stylish Romano – the fusion of contemporary design and technology. Featuring a full length Touch Screen Selection Panel and LED Display, it’s stunning design is enhanced with Real Wood Handles, LED Edge Illumination and Barista Lighting in the coffee preparation zone.

Available in 2 or 3 group versions, the Romano boasts all the power, technical qualities and reliability synonymous with Fracino’s equipment range

R

W / www.fracino.com E / sales@fracino.com T / +44 (0)121 328 5757

PETITS FOURS

1.

2.

126

3.

1. Franke Coffee Systems Franke Digital Services

2. Julius Meinl Coffee 1862 Vienna

3. Revol Yli

Franke Touchless Ordering is the safe way to order and enjoy coffee, allowing users to select drinks using their personal smart devices, rather than needing to use the buttons on the coffee machine’s touchscreen. An extension of Franke’s IoT telemetry solutions, Franke Digital Services, it uses a QR code, displayed on the coffee machine screen, that immediately and conveniently shares the coffee menu directly to customers’ personal smart devices. And, because no app or registration is required, customers can trust that their personal data stays safe too. Franke’s Touchless Ordering solution complies with strict data protection laws. www.franke.com

Some 160 years after it first entered the coffee scene and began to shape today’s modern coffeehouse culture, Julius Meinl is relaunching its premium coffee blend 1862 Vienna to the horeca sector. The move reflects the brand’s strong and storied heritage when it comes to leading the way for the future of the coffee industry. The 1862 100% Arabica blend has already achieved a three-star Superior Taste Award from the International Taste Institute in Brussels, and each coffee is presented in a cup designed by Matteo Thun, adding a dash of luxury to the serving experience and giving outlets the opportunity to score top marks for their coffee presentation. www.juliusmeinl.com

Organic, primitive and sensual, the Yli collection designed by Ferréol Babin for Revol has broken free of tableware norms to question the relationship between people and material. In doing so, the product line fully awakens the senses. The range’s furrows, grooves and other subtly rough design details are testimony to the material’s nature – one that is very much alive. These pieces require an artisan’s skill and a patient, meticulous working process. In its black, unglazed version, Yli almost resembles forged iron, inviting diners to look beyond appearances and question the origins of items – just as the designer intended. Its vocation is to offer new and more respectful perspectives on dishes: sculptural yet minimal in both shape and finish, it takes a step back to allow the chef – and the ingredients – to fully express themselves. Revol, a ninth-generation family business is based in the South of France, has been a leading manufacturer of professional kitchenware, tabletop and buffetware solutions since 1768. www.revol1768.com

Add Revenue To Your Room 30% Revenue Uplift More F&B Orders More Reviews Less Housekeeping Fewer Staff GET 30% OFF ANY SUBSCRIPTION USE CODE SUPPER30

GET.HOTEFY.COM

ADVERTISING INDEX ISSUE 27

Absolute Lifestyle

117

Mogogo

Aerts

20

Monkey 47

Amefa

112

Monno Design

027

Arc

85

MyGlassStudio

083

BHS

071

Nude

029

Nyetimber

097

Orderlina

127

Bonna Castel Frères

014-015 099

012-013 006-007

Craster

119

Orrefors Kosta Boda

131

Denby

123

Penfolds

103

Dibbern

024

Prosecco DOC

105

Fracino

125

Revol

043

Franke

016-017

Ron Colon Salvadoreno

100

Frenchefs

121

Rona

047

Front of the House

132

Schaerer

077

018-019

Steelite

049

Gruppo Cimbali

062

Steelite

008-009

Hoshizaki

002

Stolzle

051

To The Table Europe

087

G&G Goodfellow

John Jenkins

115

Julius Meinl

057

To The Table MEA

128

La Marzocco Modbar

066

Tom Gast

023

LSA International

037

WMF Professional

005

Martin Miller’s Gin

095

Zieher

010-011

129

WASHING-UP

All Aboard

Legendary champagne house Veuve Clicquot celebrates a historic journey with a vintageinspired Italian pop-up.

130

All roads lead to Rome according to the old

blankets were dotted over the terrace – just the

adage, and back in 1772 it was the house of

ticket for a high-altitude culinary journey with

Veuve Clicquot making the journey to the Italian

a side order of people-watching, champagne-

capital. The route from the champagne capital of

sipping and panoramic views.

Reims would have taken the now historic French

The cuisine also drew inspiration from the

brand through the splendour of the Alps – so

mountains, with Hotel Eden’s Executive Chef

to mark the 250th anniversary of its inaugural

Fabio Ciervo curating a menu of traditional,

Roman voyage, the maison recently installed an

hearty dishes with classic alpine flavours. The

alpine inspired F&B pop-up at Hotel Eden, the

experience began with Valdostana fondue and

Dorchester Collection property located a short

potatoes, followed by a first course of canederli

stroll from the legendary sights of the city.

dumplings served with spruce-flavoured

For the month of March, the hotel’s rooftop

consommé. Wild boar stew, polenta taragna,

terrace, Il Giardino Ristorante, played host to

mixed mushrooms and black truffle formed the

two private Veuve Clicquot cabins inspired by

main course, while Annurca apple and aged-rum

the aesthetic of vintage train carriages, painted

strudel ended the meal on a sweet note.

in midnight blue with accents of the brand’s

The glamorous pop-up is likely to be the first

signature mustard yellow hue. In addition to

of many festivities for Veuve Clicquot’s birthday

the four-seater cabins, outdoor armchairs and

year, so here’s to letting off more steam in 2022.

Street Designed in Sweden and inspired by the Streets of New York

NYC Showroom, 41 Madison Ave. | (800)-351-9842 | info@orrefors.us | www.orrefors.us

67661-011 Orrefors - Ads - Supper Magazine - Street - 236x275mm.indd 1

2022-03-16 15:23

YEAR ANNIVERSARY