SPECTR Issue 25 by Monday Publishing GmbH

Nr. 25 – I / 2019 EUR 15,–

ENGLISH GERMAN

SPECTR

LINDBERG

STRIP3P TITANIUM

»3 p /2 3 6 8 « & »3 p /2 3 7 4 «

LINDBERG AIR TITANIU M RIM

»8 2 0 8 «

danish design by Âˇ made by

bartonperreira.com

faceaface-paris.com

EDITORIAL

New Year’s. It’s a time-honored moment for a transformation. The time to make the transition from the old to the new year, the past to the future. Time to look back at the past year – our life, our habits, our values, and our goals. And of course, it’s also time to set new goals, perhaps pursue some new approaches. After all, our world remains in constant flux and demands us to constantly adapt. We should be curious about change and embrace it while realizing the potential unlocked by changes and using newly opened opportunities to our advantage. It’s best to take an active approach, so that the events will not overwhelm us. The changes are arriving at a faster pace and figure under catchphrases such as ‘technological revolution’, ‘digital transformation’, ‘augmented reality’ or ‘artificial intelligence’. These fields are dominating the economic discourse and will find their way into the optical industry. Soon consumers will be able to view virtual representations of eyewear models fitted to a virtual avatar on their smartphones – seamlessly from all angles and perspectives – and order their perfect pair of glasses at the touch of a button to be shipped via drone delivery. The question is not if this is going to happen, but when. The changes are

photos ST EFAN DONG US a ssi s t ant J ANA L U DWIG ar t work C ARO ROSS h air & m ake -up L ARS R ÜF F ERT t ale nts AU RA a t I ZAI O, AL I NA & L O UIS a t IC O N I C loca tion STU D IO L IC HT STRA SSE

coming, and they will be profound. At the same time, humans yearn for time-honored customs, for constants. With our current anniversary issue – SPECTR #25 – we want to bridge the gap between established traditions and the bright new future. This includes our cover photo shoot Transformation featuring the current line of lindberg models. We hope that you will find the following 230 pages inspiring – for both choosing the right eyewear model and also contemplating your own transformation in this bright new future. Remember: “The time for change is now. As always.”

If we were to choose an appropriate title for this shoot of the latest lindberg frames, it would probably be ‘Lightweight’ or ‘Minimalism’. Both titles perfectly sum up the lindberg models featured here – from thin-rimmed titanium frames to rimless styles – as they almost float above the wearer’s nose. We are especially enamored with the combination of classic design elements and minimalist modern shapes fitted

Scan QR-code to watch the SPECTR IN MOTION video “Transformation”.

with tinted lenses. 36

COLLECTION SHOOT

LINDBERG

STRIP3P TITANIUM

»3 p /2 3 6 8 «

COLLECTION SHOOT

LINDBERG SP I R I T T I TA N I U M

»2315« -

bl a z e r SA N D R O s w e a t e r FR E D P ERRY Classic oval design with lightgreen tinted lenses in a rimless frame.

SPIRIT TITANIUM

The Spirit Titanium Collection blends rimless frames with new and attractive colorways. The modular lindberg system unlocks diverse color combinations between lenses and temples.

COLLECTION SHOOT

STRIP3P TITANIUM

The Strip3p Titanium Collection is based on a timeless look, yet with bold adaptations. It plays with a selective, elegant color palette. The rimless silhouettes are streamlined and make a strong statement thanks to their temple designs.

LINDBERG

A I R T ITANIU M RIM

S T RIP 3 P T ITAN IU M

»8 2 0 8 «

» 3 p/2 3 6 8 «

jacke t Y-3, sh ir t BEL STAF F

d re ss KARL LAG ER FE L D

The special feature of the »8208« is its linear shape that follows the contour of the nose in a delicate Air Titanium frame.

In this Strip3p Titanium model, the top bar outlines the eyebrows harmoniously via cut-outs on the insides. 39

COLLECTION SHOOT

AIR TITANIUM RIM

The Air Titanium Rim Collection implements ultra-light titanium wire – extremely flexible, robust and comfortable at the same time. The results are unobtrusive styles, some of them timelessly elegant but some also bold, contemporary shapes.

LINDBERG

A I R T I TA NIU M RIM

»8206« -

coa t C O S p ants S AMSØE & SAMSØE pullov e r ZARA The »8206« model is a rounded double bridge style with acetate inserts in a titanium frame.

COLLECTION SHOOT

SU N T I TA N I U M

»8607« -

s hi r t E Q U I P M E N T The cat eye style in this model from the Sun Titanium Collection is created by a frame geometry with clearly defined edges. The reflective lenses lend the »8607« a special sense of glamor.

SPIRIT TITANIUM

»2371« -

pu llo v e r BRUNE LLO C U C IN ELLI A rimless silhouette in a rectangular, tapered design.

SPIRIT TITANIUM

»2373« -

coa t SANDRO The »2373« is a modern mixture between cat eye and micro frame. Delicate thanks to the rimless concept and bold because of form language and color palette.

A I R T I TA N I U M R I M

»8202« -

pullov e r B R U N E L L O C U C I N E L L I Purist double bridge frame in a modern shape with reflective lenses. 41

COLLECTION SHOOT

LINDBERG

ST R I P 3 P T I TA N I U M

»3p/2294« -

dre ss E Q U I P M E N T The light blue tinted lenses achieve a stark contrast with the harmoniously understated rimless silhouette.

GLCO

»Wa v e c re s t « “ EA ST R I V E R P I LG R I MS” BY A NG E LIK A BUE T T NE R ( p a ge 14 2 - 1 4 7 )

I M P R IN T E D I TOR IN CHIEF

O N LIN E ED IT O R

Stefan Dongus [Cologne] dongus@spectr-magazine.com m: +49.(0)151.14271817

Franca Rainer [Berlin] online@spectr-magazine.com

LAYOUT Caro Ross [Cologne] ross@spectr-magazine.com

E D I TORIAL STAF F Jana Ludwig [Cologne] press@spectr-magazine.com Dirk Vogel [Chicago] vogel@spectr-magazine.com

PROOFREADING Insa Muth [Dortmund] Peter Ashford [London] Franca Rainer [Berlin]

TRA NSLATION Dirk Vogel [Chicago]

P H O T O G RAP H ERS Linda Böse [Berlin] Angelika Buettner [New York] Eda Calisti [Munich] Stefan Dongus [Cologne] Edisonga [Berlin] Harling & Darsell [Berlin] Ulrich Hartmann [Berlin] Sacha Tassilo Höchstetter [Munich] Ava Pivot [Berlin] Florian Renner [London] Raphael Schmitz [Dusseldorf] Bela Raba [Munich]

P U BLIS H ER Monday Publishing GmbH t: +49.(0)221.945267-11 f: +49.(0)221.945267-27 www.spectr-magazine.com www.facebook.com/spectrmagazine

OFFICE ADDRESS Kamekestraße 20-22 50672 Köln, Germany STUDIO ADDRESS Lichtstraße 28 50825 Köln, Germany www.modaymedia.cc

CEOS Stefan Dongus, Holger von Krosigk

D I ST R I B U T I O N DPV Network GmbH Postfach 570 412 22773 Hamburg dpv-network.de

F&W Mediencenter GmbH Holzhauser Feld 2 83361 Kienberg fw-medien.de

SPECTR is published three times per year. This magazine and all its contents may not be re-used, distributed or stored in electronic databases in any way without prior written permission from the publishers. All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opinions reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers. All rights reserved. cover photos ST EFAN D ONGU S assistant J AN A LU D WIG artwork CARO R OSS styling M ARTIN A NELLES hair & make-up LAR S R Ü FFER T models AURA at IZAIO, ALINA ICON IC glasses LIN DBER G

& LOU IS at

CONTENT

T H E S TA G I N G O F L I G H T S A LT. B E V E L F RA M E S

NEW WORLD ORDER B Y HARLI N G & DAR SELL

TINGS FROM BARKING B Y FL OR IAN REN N ER

MASSADA I N S I DE T H E “A R T E Y E W E A R B R A ND ”

T I TA N I U M S K Y L I N E ROL F S PE C TACL E S H I G H -E ND 3 D

ODE TO ARCHITECTURE N E U B AU CE L E B RA T E S B AUHAU S

WEAR IT LOUD B Y S TEFAN DON G U S

CUT-OUTS MA R T I N & MA R T I N WI T H F I L I G RE E A PPE A R A N C E

H A P P Y M E TA L T O YO U MA RC O ’ P OL O 1 0-Y E A R S - C A PS UL E -C OL L E C T ION

P R O C R A S T I N AT I O N B Y U LR I CH HAR TM AN N

A LUCID MOMENT B Y EDI S ON G A

T I TA N I U M T O N AT U R E T I - L I N E F ROM HOF F MA N N N A T U R A L E Y E W E A R

East River Pilgrims G L C O C OL L E C T ION S HOO T

CONTENT

DOUBLE JEU / DOUBLE PLAISIR WI T H J E A N - F RA N Ç OI S R E Y A T T H E CÔ T E D’AZ UR

NOBILITY IN THE WOODS B Y LI N DA BÖS E

THEME PAGE M I CRO FRAM E S

LE SPECS GOES OPTICAL WI T H 4 0T H A N N I VE R S A R Y C OL L E C T ION

THREE IS A PARTY MODO ’ S 36 0° A PPROAC H

WIDER HORIZoN E I N S T OF F E N U N C HA I NE D C OL L E C T ION

S C H O O L’ S O U T B Y S AC H A TA S SI L O HÖCH S TE T TER

47 HEROES NE W SUNGLA SSES F ROM MA KE L L O S

CYPRUS HILL B Y B ELA RAB A

SMART | SMALL | SEXY S EE OO – FA S T S E E I NG

LESS IS MORE A DR I A N MA R WI T Z’ S L E A N DI S T R I B U T ION S T R A T E G Y

WARMING STYLES | FREEZING TIMES N E W KA RMOI E F R A M E S

my bff B Y AVA PI VO T

CAZAL

The shiny titanium frames find their perfect match in accentuated reflective lenses...

FINISHING

salt. Optics is known for embracing the joy of

travel, the need for escaping the big city to reconnect with nature again. It’s part of the brand’s natureinspired DNA, also reflected in the name which

S A LT.

is an acronym for Sea, Air, Land and Timeless. The

»She r r i -A n n «

company headquartered in Costa Mesa, California manufactures RX models as well as sunglasses with an eye for timeless style blended with the highest quality standards. The results truly stand out from other brands: salt. delivers colorways, shades, materials and frame shapes that exude a certain playfulness and easily transition from summer to autumn into winter. Completing the package, salt. lenses are handmade in Japan with an array of soft color gradients and shades.

»St e fan «

...but the matted frames also boast a high-grade finish thanks to bevel detailing with attention to detail. 50

FINISHING

photos RAP H AEL S C H M IT Z

THE STAGING OF LIGHT

» Donl a n«

The beveled contours are also visible in this rear view.

This understated, masculine silhouette is a unisex model that also flatters female faces.

salt. bridges the gender gap with the stylish

»Donlan« model. Crafted from titanium and

For this winter season, salt. is bringing three

beta titanium, it’s an everyday essential for

new models to market that are strongly inspired by

every man and woman looking to make a

the mid-1970s; especially the bevel-detail, a slight

strong appearance in monochromatic Black,

slant on the titanium frames creating a strong reflec-

Silver and Gold supplemented by natural horn

tive effect. Light hits the triangular bevel at a steeper

temples.

angle, causing a more intense refraction especially around the top bar and nose bridge. Find this feature perfectly executed in models such as the »Donlan«, »Sherri-Ann« and »Stefan« that are now available in

FINISHING

Gold, Silver, and Matted Black. These three new entries provide a dazzling blend of quality, savoir-faire, and elegance – not only on winter days. Let’s grade materials and stylish accents. The smart bevel-detail

take a closer look. The verdict: salt. continues its

is something we can’t wait to see more of in the future as

winning streak with a solid winter

it achieves a harmonious union between sophistication

season offering, replete with high-

and the beauty of natural light. These new frames are perfect for unplugging and reconnecting with nature, that’s the salt. spirit. saltoptics.com

The ultra-light titanium »Sherri-Ann« sunglasses with a vintage touch offer a reinterpretation of classic butterfly

shapes in signature salt. style. The resulting frame is a streamlined butterfly model for women with nods to the oversized shapes of the 1970s. Available in four colorways with matching color gradient lenses.

S A LT. » Sh e r r i -An n «

Look no further for an angular unisex-

»St e fa n«

frame that takes minimalism to the extreme. Inspired by eyewear styles of the 1980s, the »Stefan« is crafted from premium beta titanium with natural horn temples. The soft, rounded edges underline the natural beauty of male as well as female faces.

OPTI 2019 JANUARY 25-27

NEW LO C AT I O N : HALL C 2 STA ND 130

EYEVAN 7285 » R u be n« -

coa t & t u r t le n e c k U N IQ LO

BY H a rl in g & Da rs e l l

[BERLIN]

s t yli n g DAVO R J E L U SI C h ai r & m ake - up M A R I A N A C O L M E N A R E S mod els N I N A a t C O R E M A N AGE M E N T & M A R C E L L O P IZZU L L I a t EL IT E

EYEVAN 7285 »76 2 « -

coa t J O SE P H , dre ss 22/4 F EMMES

MAKELLOS » A s a k u sa « -

s w e a t e r & p a nt s U N IQ LO

MAKELLOS

» O mot e sa n do « -

ja c ke t SELECT ED, d re ss M AX M ARA

REIZ

» K u gel « -

bl a z e r, top & p a nt s S LY 0 1 0

REIZ

»T. 0 6 « -

s hi r t , p ants & v e s t BRACHMANN

KOBERG »6995 « -

t ur tle ne ck J O SE P H , s ki r t M O NK I, shoe s KU RT GEIGER

KOBERG »60 3 8 « -

t ur tle ne ck J O SE P H, bl a z e r & p ants VIL A

ROLF SPECTACLES »C a p r i 132« -

t re nch coa t F RED P E R RY, t ur tle ne ck & p ants R A E Y, s hoe s VAGA B O N D

FHONE

»B r i d ge t« -

t ur t le n e c k JOS EPH, top BA&S H , sk ir t BRAC H M AN N

BLACKFIN »L e v e n« -

rai ncoa t ST U T T ERHEIM t ur tle ne ck TEDDY GL ICK MAN v e s t 22/ 4 HOMMES

HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR

» T8 6 0 1 «

»T 8503«

y ellow s hi r t COS, d e nims O N E D EN IM , t re nch coa t K I N G & T U C K FI E L D

top C O S, rai ncoa t AQU ASCU T U M

BY FL ORIA N RE N N E R

[LONDON]

a ss i s t ant L A U R A Z E P P s t yli n g SA R A H A N N M U R R AY a ss i s t ed b y R O SI E J FA R N W O R T H h ai r SH U K E E L M U R TA Z A a t FR A N K m ake - up A D E L E SA N D E R SO N a t FR A N K mod els FR E D E R I K K E a t E STA B L I SH E D & L A R I SSA GO M E S a t N E V S

RES/REI

» C os mopolit a n« -

s hi r t 7 F O R ALL M AN KIN D blou s e F O LK t re nch coa t KIN G & T U C KF IELD

RES/REI »Milo« -

jacke t S T Y L I S T ’S O W N sh ir t L U CA FAL ONI d e nims ONE DENIM

L.A. EYEWORKS »F un Z one « -

t ur tle ne ck AK IRA jacke t F OL K

KARMOIE

»Nucle u s« -

jacke t & wais tcoa t RU BINACCI ca s hm e re scar f L U CA FAL ONI be re t ONE DENIM

MATERIKA »70545« -

bl a z e r EDWARD S EXTO N s hi r t F OLK

MATERIKA »7 0 5 4 0 « -

jacke t ONE DENIM s hi r t & trou s e r s F OL K

METROPOLITAN »8 0 5 0 « -

suit COS sh ir ts F OL K e ar r in g s AL ICE MADE THIS

METROPOLITAN »8261« -

p olo J O H N SM E DL EY s hi r t L U C A FA LONI trou s e r s & tre nchcoa t S T Y L I S T ’S O W N

MARKUS T »L 1 0 1 5 « -

jump e r & wh it e sh ir t F OL K d e nims ONE DENIM

INTERVIEW

t e x t D IRK VO G EL, s t il ls E DA C A L I ST I , i m a ge pics M A SSA DA

INSIDE THE “ART EYEWEAR BRAND”

INTERVIEW

Hello Kate and Chris! There really is no other

not the type of art.

eyewear label as dedicated to art as massada.

But is there a special type of art that you feel

What is the reason?

attracted to in particular?

Kate Lupinsky: It comes from our heart. It

C.M.: We are interested in a variety of art

comes from our blood. Interest in art has

scenes. Prehistorical paintings, free jazz,

always been part of our lives and when

calligraphy, medieval color symbolism,

massada was started, it was a natural

ballet, folk art, history of architecture,

solicitation of what we feel and who we

comics, modern art of the 21st century...

are. The art element of massada is not a

What is important is to view these works

deliberately applied marketing ingredient

within a historical, political and socioeco-

of the label, this is the way we feel and

nomic context as we do not believe in art

experience life.

for art’s sake.

What exactly fascinates you about art?

Was this attitude also your motivation to found

Chris Mastaler: The most fascinating as-

an independent eyewear label with a strong art

pect of art is its emotional power arising

connection?

from human creativity and the power to

K.L.: Eyewear is to us a symbol of ambi-

communicate that. A mutual communi-

tion based on education and persistence.

cation via aesthetics. The most important

Historically speaking, eyewear was asso-

part is the context of the interaction and

ciated with studies. In art history, one of

Elevated above the mainstream: The official “Art Eyewear Brand” from Switzerland.

Many eyewear brands like to emphasize their close relationship to art. But hardly any brand creates a symbiosis between art and eyewear like Swiss-based label MASSADA. For creative director Kate Lupinsky and her (business) partner Chris Mastaler, art is like the air they breathe. Where does art end and eyewear design begin? For the official Art Eyewear Brand, there are no delineated boundaries. This also becomes apparent in our interview: The two are like walking encyclopedia of art and cultural history and will seamlessly switch from geometrically inspired eyewear frames to the spatial concepts proposed by philosopher Gernot Böhme to hand-picked eyewear manufacturing workshops. Welcome to MASSADA’s intellectual universe.

INTERVIEW

Inspired by art: MASSADA cultivates extraordinary situations – also in its brand imagery.

Japanese finishing par excellence.

the first images of eyewear is of nobility, emperors, cardinals, merchants, high

We wouldn’t choose other objects to play

see it? K.L.: Commercial utensils such as eyewear

with branding.

echelons of society. Mandarins always

This leads us directly to our next question: Why

can also achieve a certain beauty through

wear glasses in old paintings. When the

eyewear, of all things?

our artistically inspired work. Emotions

‘cult of youth’ exploded, wearing eyewear

C.M.: Eyewear is an object of consumption

derived from contact with such a connec-

in western culture was considered as a

presented in society as a means of com-

tion between art and eyewear are turned

handicap for the elderly, and we think it

munication among a variety of actors in-

into the sellable brand experience.

is changing. Eyewear has becoming more

volved. Eyewear has become a message in

And what kind of brand experience is massada

and more trendy over the past few years.

itself. What you consume is who you are

offering consumers?

Do glasses also attain a more positive image in

in today’s world. People can make a lot of

C.M.: Linking eyewear with art in the way

the process?

judgments based on the eyewear you are

massada does is an invitation to being a

K.L.: We are turning back the wheel of his-

wearing. I am sure opticians, depending

member of the club, which can be joined

tory to a point where eyewear as an object

on the country, culture and context also

only by some chosen and knowledgeable.

can again be associated with successful

do that when they see a client or observe

It is a statement of belonging to a certain

individuals who study and work hard

people on the street wearing eyewear.

intellectual group. It is a statement of aesthetics within the massada experience.

to accumulate knowledge and wisdom. Wealth does not come overnight, at least

PHILOSOPHY AND TARGET GROUP

Eyewear is a strong communication tool in luxury.

most of the time. It takes time, eyewear helps to achieve that. To us, eyewear,

Speaking of consumerism, aside from all the

And what exactly does the name massada

intellectuality and wealth are almost

artistic ambitions a piece of eyewear is still a

communicate?

synonymous. That makes an incredible

commodified and commercialized object and

K.L.: massada means “strong founda-

narration for an eyewear-related brand.

massada is a commercial label. Or how do you

tion”. We build our brand on solid quality

INTERVIEW

MASSADA »C h r ys le r B uil d in g«

“The special feature of this frame is the geometry inspired by Art Deco aesthetics. The main focus is on the philosophy behind design as an expression of urban progress and industrialisation. The octagonal shape adapts to the characteristics of the human face.”

products and art-related narration. How would you describe the underlying philosophy behind massada?

Your communication tools exhibit a rather high production value. Is it worth the effort?

like temples or in the story related to the pieces. In every piece we use a story

C.M.: Giving a name and story to an

related to art. The names and descriptions

K.L.: We exist thanks to our free will,

eyewear frame makes it real. Stories and

tell the narrations that exist in our heads.

accumulated knowledge and our will to

names are important communication

It’s important that our art inspirations do

learn and develop. Our values are in ethics

tools for us. The frame itself becomes

not tempt us to ‘overdesign’ the frames. It

determined by our goal to provide quality

something important. Not just a thing

always has to be justified by utility.

eyewear. Our sense of life lies in search

but a person or concept or set of values

for advancement.

put together in the context of physical

Are you also aiming at customers who share

appearance and its ideological or philoso-

this philosophy?

phical attraction. We treat eyewear as art,

This utilitarian approach also reflects in a straightforward, clear form language. What is the ultimate goal? C.M.: Our goal is designing simple but

C.M.: Our frames are made for knowled-

therefore we do not want to leave it with

unique shapes. From our recent collection,

geable consumers. People who possess

some name which is a meaningless num-

shapes like »Rashōmon« and »Pogany«

some sort of appreciation for the quality

ber or name which is thoughtless.

are good examples of simple geometric

and design of our products. That requires some mental capabilities in recognizing

DESIGN AND MANUFACTURING

the material, craftsmanship and feeling of final finishing. Therefore we try to be

How does art as the foundation in your brand

engaged in a dialogue with our massada

DNA affect the actual design of your frames?

shapes. In how far do you follow current fashion influences with your designs? K.L.: Our frames are timeless. We are not a fashion brand. Our quality is outstanding,

club members via narrations, art projects

K.L.: All our pieces are art-related! There

and we work breathlessly to provide the

and communication in regards to the ori-

are direct applications from the world

best possible engineering. We are con-

gin of the product and its substance.

of art in every piece. Either by elements

vinced that we are the best on the market

INTERVIEW

MASSADA »Te sh i m a « “Our favorite building, the Teshima Building in Japan, serves as a model for the curved lines of this model. The design was strongly oriented towards this spectacular building.”

in that respect. We will spend the next

are applied in traditional ways of crafts-

few weeks in the Sabae region in Japan

manship and ethics.

working with craftsmen on elements and development of frames that we designed

THE COLLECTION

Does this focus on craftsmanship also determine

That sounds really elaborate. Let’s talk about

the choice of materials?

the models in your collection. Do you have any favorite styles in the massada portfolio?

already for next year’s Silmo. It takes an

C.M.: We trust in Japanese vintage bio

incredible amount of effort to develop and

acetate from Takiron Rowland, based in

C.M.: We like clean lines in our collection.

manufacture the frames and defy mass

Osaka as the most reputable Japanese

We avoid patterns or baroque styles.

productions.

producer. In Italy, we work with Maz-

Making clean lines is more difficult as

zucchelli, the Varese-based traditional

finishing a clean surface is more prone

powerhouse with whom we experi-

to stretches and cannot hide faults as

C.M.: We have three major lines in our

mented on several acetate developments

patterns do on some surfaces. Clean lines

collection: First are combination frames

experimenting with colors and patterns.

and simple designs are easier to wear and

manufactured in Sabae, Japan. Second are

For metals, we choose titanium, beta tita-

less invasive. According to Leonardo Da

titanium, beta titanium and alpha beta

nium and alpha beta titanium for a variety

Vinci, “Simplicity is the ultimate sophis-

titanium frames also manufactured in

of combinations and metal frames. We

tication”. Simplicity is the philosophy of

Sabae, Japan. Our third line is composed

also merge our titanium frames with gold

of acetate frames manufactured at the

plating in 24K or 18K gold depending

In order to achieve this look, all the most

outskirts of Valdobbiadene, Italy. We ma-

on the desired color in cooperation with

minuscule elements need to be aligned with the

nufacture in the above places because of

Japanese firm Eyetec.

same principle, right?

Where exactly do you manufacture your frames and why?

our style.

the people and their culture. They possess

K.L.: Behind the art of simplicity is a

accumulated knowledge and skills, which

puzzle of complexity. Working with

INTERVIEW

MASSADA » Poga ny « “The shape of this model is inspired by the almond-shaped eyes of Constantin Brancusi’s sculptures as well as the geometry of avantgarde abstract art.”

each element, with each screw, nose pad

Everyone who builds houses or decorates

urban and industrial progress. That’s why

and acetate elements, rivets and hinges

apartments knows it. Architecture is the

I worked to make the octagon shape fit

requires constant consciousness about the

art of design with a lot of purpose. It is

final whole picture. We work constantly

essential as it provides shelter or other

to improve our design to polish and reach

functions needed in our existence. It is so

a level of quality desired by opticians and

broad and so universal. We derive a lot of

K.L.: Absolutely. Our »Pogany« model for

valued by the end user.

inspiration from it.

instance continues our love for Romani-

What can your audience look forward to in the

Do you apply certain criteria in choosing the

new collection?

buildings that inspire your eyewear frames?

the characteristic of the human face. You also draw lots of creative energy from sculptors, also in the new collection.

an sculptor Constantin Brancusi, in our opinion the most important sculptor of

K.L.: The newest massada models are

K.L.: There are no criteria. We leave

the last 500 years. When we analyzed

artistic in character and show clearly mo-

ourselves complete freedom. We see a

the sculpture of his love Mademoiselle

dernist tendencies. Decorative as they are,

building, if that strikes us we take the in-

Pogany, we discovered that eye shapes

these pieces display discipline in space

spiration. Examples include the Teshima

follow an abstract pattern. So we wanted

and design. The results are beauty at its

Building and Chrysler Building.

to develop a frame based on a geometric

best, as a function of utility and clarity of

Why those particular buildings?

idea that will be as simple as possible but

K.L.: In dealing with the lines of the

will lead to the singularity of the wearer

Once again you are drawing inspiration from

»Teshima« model, I was polishing curves

and the frame shape itself.

architecture. Where is the attraction for you?

to reach a level of lack of conflict with na-

the message.

C.M.: Architecture is the expression of

ture. In the case of the Chrysler Building,

our personalities. We think it is very

the philosophy behind the design was to

much associated with human psychology.

reach the state of edgy representation of

We also know that you are major fans of Jean Hans Arp. Are his influences also to be found in the new collection? K.L.: We explored all his archives and so

INTERVIEW

MASSADA »Tor so« “The special feature of this model is the titanium element inspired the woman’s Torso sculpted by Jean Hans Arp.”

far selected a few sculptures which we

more models based on more sculptures

vided in our manual book for the shops

can amend, process and apply in eyewear:

that we like.

and sales people. You can learn it easily

The “Torso” and “Leaf” sculptures. The

And finally an honest question: Are massada

just from reading a short handy book

Leaf sculpture inspired us to design a

opticians required to have a minimum of art

explaining brand and product. Such an

temple which is as polymorphic as Arp’s

expertise?

approach adds value to the transaction as

life. Torso is a tribute to women power,

C.M.: Opticians need to know their

the optician becomes a trader of cultural

as we believe with the Talking Heads that

clients. Knowing the client and knowing

capital.

“The world moves on a woman‘s hips.”

the labels helps to match both and make a

Thank you both for the highly intellectual con-

Both elements are used in a few models,

successful sale. Offering massada does

versation.

and at the moment we are working on

require a bit of knowledge, which is pro-

massadaeyewear.com

KATE LUPINSKY massada’s cofounder and chief

designer was raised in South Africa as the daughter of two doctors. At a young age, she traveled the world and spent prolonged CHRIS MASTALER

periods in Singapore and New

Chris has a strong background in venture capital and investment

Zealand. Kate holds a degree in

banking. He completed his education in Finance, Economics and

Design as well as a postgraduate

Political Science and has worked in Toronto, London and Genève. He

degree in Management of Product

has been applying his management knowledge as Kate’s partner at

Development. Aside from her

massada since 2014. His hobbies include extreme wilderness survival

three dogs and three cats she is

and exchanging intellectual ideas across cultures.

passionate about art. 84

NEW TECH

photos R A P H A E L SC H M I T Z

STATE-OF-THE-ART TECHNOLOGY MEETS HIGH-END DESIGN

ROLF SPECTACLES »ME X « 86

NEW TECH

For the past ten years, rolf spectacles has been building a reputation for upscale designs blended with natural materials. The brand based in the Tyrol region of Austria serves allergyfriendly frames crafted from wood, stone, and horn that have won several of the eyewear industry’s highest merits, points to a forward-looking brand philosophy: “Our mission is to create groundbreaking innovations, set new trends and through it all remain true to our roots!” said rolf Marketing Manager Christian Wolf. When it comes to ground-breaking innovations, rolf spectacles is constantly exploring new materials. This led the team to ask a crucial question four years ago: How come almost all titanium frames are manufactured in Japan? Would it also be possible to realize a titanium collection in line with rolf quality

The innovative Flexlock hinge combines a natural rubber ring, highly dense wood and a 3D-printed insert crafted from polyamide.

including the iF Design Award. As the driving force, the label

standards right on the brand’s own doorstep? The goal was to produce a ‘visionary eyewear frame’ without

includes prescription frames and sunglasses in an

any compromises while keeping the

elegant form language supplemented by futuristic

production chain as local as possible,

high tech.

meaning all components manufactu-

Behind the scenes, rolf installed a specific

red in Austria and Southern Germany.

manufacturing process in order to transform their

In search of suitable processes,

frame models from computer-aided designs in CAD-

the rolf team discovered an equally

software into a finished product. The results exude a

new and innovative method: metallic

sense of highly functional minimalism, both in terms

3D-printing – an ‘additive’ process

of manufacturing and on a product level: “In the fina-

using metals such as titanium instead

lized production process, the frames are printed while

of conventional nylon in 3D-printing

making optimal use of raw materials before being

– is revolutionizing the manufactu-

finished manually by seasoned eyewear aficionados.

ring of component parts in industries

The biggest breakthrough in developing this titanium

such as robotics, automotive, and

frame is the fact that it consists of a mere three com-

aerospace. “3D-printing offers the advantage that there are very few dependencies on technical limitations and constructions. What’s more, we are able to realize rather complex The magic of 3D- printing: Complex geometries and surface structures.

geometries compared to traditional manufacturing methods.” Working closely with select partners from leading technology segments, rolf succeeded in bringing metallic 3D-printing into eyewear manufacturing. The label is currently premiering the very first 3D-printed eyewear collection in company history: The Titanium Skyline Collection

NEW TECH

ponents, while being highly customizable and flexible at an incredibly light weight.” Thanks to the reduced number of individual components, rolf titanium frames are

completely free of adhesives and screws with easy lens fitting for The Titanium Skyline Collection consists of 16 prescription frames

opticians. For another technological standout, the frames

and six sunglasses. The first line of rolf titanium frames is available

include Flexlock hinge techno-

with two surface treatments (rough and gentle) and five colorways (raw,

logy, which recently won the

anthracite, gold, black and mocha) thanks to technology from the medi-

Silmo d’Or 2018 in the Techno- cal sector. All frames can be ordered with adjustable temple tips and nose logy and Innovation category.

bridges.

This extremely flexible hinge

Following this major milestone, the rolf spectacles team will

combines highly dense wood

continue to advance their newest technology: “We are constantly op-

with a natural rubber and a 3D- timizing our constructions and 3D-printing processes. The long-term printed polyamide insert.

goal consists of printing only what is absolutely necessary in terms of stability, design, and construction.” Having seen the futuristic minimalism of the Titanium Skyline Collection, we can’t wait to see what’s next in this high-tech and high-style category.

Model names in the skyline collection have been inspired by international metropolitan cities, for instance Rome and Johannesburg.

www.rolfspectacles.com

ROLF SPECTACLES » ROM«

»J N B «

L A B E L U P D AT E

NEUBAU »Wa l t e r & Wa ss ily « black coal / eclectic silver

black coal / brass matte

snow-white / black matte

photos RAP H AEL SCH M IT Z

L A B E L U P D AT E

the very notion of human community. These

NEUBAU’S ANSWER TO 100 YEARS OF BAUHAUS The name Bauhaus is known across the globe. But what really is Bauhaus? A style? A school? A movement? Actually, it’s a bit of all these things

themes are more relevant today than ever before, and the creative principles behind Bauhaus have made an impact on a global scale as they continue to influence architects, designers, and artists across the world even today. That list also includes the designers at

and most of all, a direction that has left its mark in history. For the 100th

neubau. With their special edition »Walter

anniversary of Bauhaus, Austrian eyewear manufacturer neubau is

& Wassily« frame, they pay homage to the

dedicating the »Walter & Wassily« frame to Bauhaus founders Walter

Bauhaus aesthetic. The titanium frame is a

Gropius and Wassily Kandinsky.

nod to the metal pipes often employed in True to the spirit, the collection

Bauhaus furniture designs. The geometric

is based on the founding idea

shape of the circle also loomed large over

behind Bauhaus: To make art and

Bauhaus designs, featured prominently in the

artistic craftsmanship accessible

frame’s circular lenses, which are reflective

to everyone. “Form follows func-

in tribute to the mirrored front of the Walter

tion,” is the famous mantra set

Gropius school building in the town of Des-

forth by founder Walter Gropius

sau. The color palette also draws on familiar

as he demanded not a new style

Bauhaus hues such as brass, silver, and black

or type of art, but much rather

in all three variations of the frame. Just in

a sweeping reform of artistic

time for the 100th anniversary, the »Walter

endeavors. The Bauhaus school

& Wassily« frame brings Bauhaus values

set out to be different, nothing

back to life in the here and now, where art is

short of revolutionary. It aimed

supposed to exist according to the founders. neubau-eyewear.com

The reflective lenses and color gradient are inspired by the famous Walter Gropius school building complex in the German town of Dessau.

to change society and redefine

3D-printed patterns are the frame’s most prominent features.

Twice a year, the Paris Fashion Week is the venue for the whois-who of the international fashion industry. And the many shows also attract models from all over the world to present the latest Ready-to-Wear fashion to the public. SPECTR was invited together with six models from Bananas Models Paris to the DACH showroom in Le Marais, where we had a real cornucopia of fashionable clothing at our disposal. Also in the luggage: the

Scan QR-code to watch the SPECTR IN MOTION video „Wear It Loud“.

newest styles from eleven eyewear designer labels.

ANDY WOLF »4738« -

jumps u i t K IDS OF DI AS P O RA ne c kl a ce PUBLIS HED BY b a g HÄNS K A

With his cornrows hairstyle, Marcellin was the perfect model to present sophisticated glasses from ANDY WOLF and L.A. EYEWORKS.

Marcellin 92

L.A. EYEWORKS » D i g g s« -

s hi r t , p ants & bel t F OMME

S i x M a le m o de ls cas ted at par is fas hio n we e k

photos STEFAN D O N G U S [PARIS] s t yli n g , ca s t in g & p rod uc t ion S ABIN E BE R L I P P a t B L O SSO M M A N AGE M E N T h a i r K ARINE WALZ AC K, m a ke -up WALT ER D E N E C H E R E mo d el s JONAS, J O S EP H , J U LIEN , M ARC ELLIN , TA E M I N & T H I B A U D a t B A N A N A S M O D E L S PA R I S s p e c i a l t h a n k s to DAC H S H O W RO O M , BERLIN SH O W R O O M , M O D E SU I SSE & A U ST R I A N FA SH I O N A SSO C I AT I O N 93

Classic and smart, Joseph had the perfect appearance to present aviators from BARTON PERREIRA and the collabo model from SALT. x AETHER.

Joseph

BARTON PERREIRA » A e ron a ut« -

s h ir t & p a nt s G O N

»Doy e n «

S A LT. X A E T H E R »Voya ge « -

sh ir t GON p ants DAMU R

GÖTTI

» E zra « -

s w e a t e r & ja c ke t JULIAN Z IG ERLI

Julien is a prime example for a young, modern male and a very fashionable model. He presents refined glasses from GÖTTI and the very fashionable models from KALEOS. 96

KALEOS

»An d e r son « -

shir t P. LE M OULT s w e a t e r DAM UR

KALEOS

»B ord e n« coa t & sh ir t

P. L E MOU LT

LINDBERG »8904«

coa t , s hi r t & p a nt s

P. LE M OULT

Jonas

Jonas comes from Aarhus, just like LINDBERG, and he immediately picked up the hexagonal glasses from Denmark. But he was also a big fan of the eye-catching styles from YOHJI YAMAMOTO.

YO H J I YA M A M O T O

» YY7 0 26« & »Y Y 7005« -

coa t N I N A Y U U N

CAZAL

» 9078«

»6 6 4 «

sh ir t N O B I TA L A I p a nt s W E N DY & J I M coa t AS TR I D D E I GN E R

Taemin flew over from Korea for only four days and did not miss the opportunity to wear the latest, really bold styles from CAZAL and VAVA.

Taemin

100

VAVA

» W L0 0 1 9 « -

shir t & p a nt s F OM M E

VAVA

»B L0009«

101

Thibaud

No doubt about it: Thibaud cuts a fine figure with the modern round styles from HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER.

HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER » Mu s ti q ue « -

HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER

coa t , sh ir t & p a nt s F O M M E

»O piu m« -

coa t DA M U R 102

Modell ME 7011 | www.makellos-potsdam.de

opti 2019 | Halle C3 | Stand 325 | AOYAMA

M & C

lookocchiali.it

.OPTI. Munich .25.27/1 C1.311

MARTIN &MARTIN CUT- UTS NEW TECH

ACETATE FRAMES WITH FILIGREE APPEARANCE

photos STEFAN DO N G U S s til l s RAPHAEL SCH M IT Z

MARTIN & MARTIN boasts a long tradition as an independent label. As of late, the specialists for acetate frames ‘Made in Germany’ have been playing with geometric shapes and cut-outs for a new level of three-dimensionality in their eyewear. The Cut-Out Collection effortlessly blends the comfort of wear offered by acetate frames with the delicate refinement of metal frames. We get the inside scoop on how the Cologne-based label achieves this blend of two worlds during a photo shoot at a special location with founder Martin Lehmann.

105

NEW TECH

MARTIN & MARTIN » Wolf«

»B e n «

» Sv e n«

106

NEW TECH

combination of designs and colors. It’s a playing field with endless possibilities, true kerosene for the creativity. How do you create this three-dimensionality? Basically, multi-layered plates of material

The »Wolf« model skillfully integrates metal temples into the frame.

are processed with multi-axial CNCmilling in a way that leaves the colored lines intact. This creates a three-dimensional surface, which is then perfected through an elaborate polishing process. What are the materials you are using in the collection? It’s our own material blend of bio acetate, which is sourced from cotton and wood, so it’s 100% recyclable and bio-degradable. The series of materials by an Italian manufacturer carries the name M49 after a galaxy 60 million lightyears away. A great fit, I would say!

The acetate base only becomes visible upon closer inspection.

The frame you are wearing features a rather

Hello Martin, for the interview photo shoot we have chosen a rather special location. What’s the connection to the design of the new collection? We are indeed meeting at an incredibly fitting location. Geometric window shapes cut into the washed-out concrete lend this special piece of architecture a light-flooded transparency and threedimensionality. It suits the building, but also suits our Cut-Out Collection, which we have been developing for two years. In how far?

bold design, but it only becomes apparent upon

We place lines with a high sense of fili-

closer inspection. Viewed from far away, the

gree on transparent ‘carrying elements’

frame seems very delicate.

that allow for a high comfort of wear.

That’s the special feature of this techno-

You have been exploring the Cut-Out theme for a

logy! Viewed from a distance, the glasses

rather long time now. What do you like about it

appear to be hovering over the wearer’s

so much?

face or seem like a metal frame. Only

We create a relief-like structure and the

upon closer inspection the transparent

effect of ‘two frames in one’ through a

base becomes apparent. We have expanded the transparency of the lenses onto the frame shape and then added individually-designed lines, which seem like metal or floating. 107

NEW TECH

Are you keeping the colorways of Cut-Outs rather understated or eye-catching?

We are still in the experimental stages, but thin-rimmed shapes combined with color pop have garnered a great response. How many models does the collection consist of? At this point, there are a double-digit number of models at two to six Cut-Out variations each. Is now the perfect time for this type of design? I think it is a great time to break out of the ‘hipster uniform’ to explore new horizons without looking like a clown or alien. So we can look forward to seeing more Cut-Outs from martin & martin in the future?

We will of course continue to advance our classic acetate frames in the future, but the look of our Cut-Outs is really unique, successful and special for martin &

Do all models in the collection feature transpa-

martin. With that said, the answer is:

rent base layers?

definitely!

No, the first generation of Cut-Outs con-

www.martinxmartin.com

sisted of completely machined geometric forms with cut-outs. We named the sunglasses collection Tattoo, with the underlying idea that the cut-outs would leave a temporary tattoo on the wearer’s skin from tanning under the natural sunlight. That was a pretty far-out concept and also led to the idea of working with transparent base materials instead of cut-outs. The combination of transparent base layers and colored cut-outs also opens up entirely new variations in terms of design. What is the attraction and potential behind this concept? In the latest generation of Cut-Outs we have created diverse combination options with colored line patterns. With thinrimmed lines, we can create a rather delicate effect that was previously solely limited to metal frames, but with the familiar comfort of wear of an acetate frame.

And combined with bold lines? The result is a much more expressive frame. The expansion into colored multilayered plates has multiplied the possibilities between line strength and colors on top of the transparent base, which changes between champagne, clear, gray and rose transparent hues. It’s a playing field we are currently experimenting with. The look is unique but not dominant, even in combination with hefty materials used in base shapes, like in our »Wolf« model. Is that the model you are wearing right now? Yes, it’s my current favorite. 108

OPTI MUNICH C2.416

MIDO MILAN PAV.4. M01

photos EDA CAL IST I

COLLECTION CHECK

MARC O’POLO » 5 0 5 0 74 -3 0 «

MARC O’POLO CELEBRATES 10 YEARS ANNIVERSARY

» 505 0 7 6 - 3 0 «

»505 0 7 6 - 2 0 «

»505 0 7 5 - 3 0 «

110

Branding? Yes, but understated, please.

Unobtrusive branding on the temple tips.

COLLECTION CHECK

The rounded octagonal shape is an eye catcher and collection highlight.

Celebrating its 10th anniversary, marc

statement paired with reflective lenses, len-

fashion. The line-up includes featherlight

o’polo presents an exclusive capsule collec-

ding the glasses a cool sense of elegance. The

retro styles, architectural frames with double

tion under the Eschenbach Eyewear umbrella.

resulting frames are a masterclass in light-

bridges, delicate acetate and straightforward

The collection boasts sunglasses in summer-

weight, colorful designs in a timeless fashion.

riffs on classics. The capsule collection is a

time gradient shades that are true eyecatchers

With the Modern Transparency Collection,

worthy anniversary gift for the fashion label,

thanks to their stainless steel frames with

marc o’polo eyewear effortlessly

and an invitation to see more from marc

a high-grade galvanized finish. The highly

bridges the gap between modernism and high

o’polo eyewear.

marc-o-polo.com

Delicate engravings: Attention to detail visible at close sight.

delicate nature of the frames makes a strong

Delicately crafted steel frames create pretty light effects around the edges. 111

FLEYE

» T i nu s« -

s hi r t T ED DY G LIC KM AN , p a nt s S C O T C H & SO DA 112

BY U l ric h H a rtma n n

[BERLIN]

conce pt & s up e r v i s ion N O R B E R T VA L L U Š h ai r & m ake - up ST E P H A N SC H M I E D s t yli n g K A I K I L I A N mod els W I L L I A M a t I C O N I C M A N AGE M E N T &

PA U L a t C O R E A R T I ST M A N AGE M E N T

FLEYE

»Na va l is«

s hi r t SC O TCH& SODA, p ants U NIQL O 113

MYKITA

» S t u d io / St u d io 7 .2 « -

ja c ke t JOOP !

114

MYKITA

» L it e / E e ro « -

sh ir t Z ARA, ja c ke t AL E X A N D E R WA N G 115

ECO

» Os a k a « -

ca p e S T Y L I S T ’S O W N , p a nt s M IC H ALS KY S T U D IO, s car f Z A R A 116

ECO

» B r isb a ne « -

ca p e S T Y L I S T ’S O W N , p ants SEL ECT ED 117

STRELLSON »S N 3 3 0 2 2 « -

shir t SELECTED, d e n i m sh ir t S C O T C H &S O DA 118

STRELLSON »S N3302 « -

d e ni m s hi r t C H E E P M O N DAY, jacke t SC O T C H & SODA 119

MODO

»690« -

s hi r t MICHAL SK Y STU DIO

120

INVU

»T 19 0 3 « -

s hi r t M I C H A L SK Y STU DIO

121

IC! BERLIN » Pompom « -

s w e a t e r Z ARA, ja c ke t T ED DY G LIC KM A N , p ants D I M I T R I , s hoe s D R . M A R T E N S

122

HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER »W hit e h a v e n« -

jacke t L E V I ´S RED TAB v e s t A R K ET chi no U NIQL O

124

BY E DIS ON GA

[BERLIN]

ca s ti n g TA M A R A SA R I SC H W I L I p roduc tion GO R D O N SC H I R M E R & SI M EON MORAL ES F Ü SS s t yli n g C A R I I N C O WA L SC I I a t B I GO U D I h ai r & m ake - up A ST R I D SC H E P PA N a t L IGANORD mod els M A R C I N a t C O R E M A N AGE M E N T & L U CA a t MEGA MODEL S

HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER » Pe nros e « -

b o d ys u i t ALEXA N D ER WAN G F O R U N IQ LO p a nt s Y / P RO J EC T

125

ETNIA BARCELONA »Ta hoe « -

s w e a t e r DANIEL E F IESOL I

126

ETNIA BARCELONA »A m al gro« -

coa t 3 2 PA R A D I S p ants J O SE P H belt L E S C OYO T E S D E PA R I S boots E SSE N T I E L A N T W E R P

127

SILHOUETTE »8705« -

coa t HENRIK VIBSKOV shir t SASQUATCHFA BRIX trou s e r s HENRIK VIBS KOV

128

SILHOUETTE »8164« -

jacke t & p ants SM Y T H E blou s e A B SE N C E O F PA P E R

129

GLCO

»Wa v e c re s t« -

s hi r t L E S C OYO T E S DE PARIS le a the r top N A N USHK A p ants H O U SE O F DAGMAR

130

GLCO

» Wa v e cre s t«

»E le c t r ic «

sh ir t P RADA

dre ss GA N N I

s w e a t sh ir t S T O N E IS LAN D

lon g - s lee v e L E S C OYO T E S DE PARIS

t rou s e r s H AN S EN

socks W I L SO N

b oot s ALL S AIN T S VIN TAG E

boots C H I A R A FE R R AGN I V INTAGE 131

MASUNAGA »Q u ince« -

dre ss SE L F P O R T R A I T

132

MASUNAGA »B ell a t r ix« -

coa t H O U SE O F DAGMAR un d e r w e ar A L E X A N D E R WANG F OR U NIQL O boots L U C A VA L E NTINI VINTAGE

133

KALEOS

»L a Mott e « -

jacke t SMYT HE s w e a t e r COT T WEIL ER p ants & bel t U NIQL O

KALEOS

»E d wards« -

jacke t H E N R I K V I B SKOV u n d e r w e ar A L E X A N D E R WA N G FO R U N I Q L O 134

C O L L E C T I O N U P D AT E

p or t ra i t S TEFA N D O N G U S, s t il l s EDA C ALIS T I

TI-LINE FROM HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR Germany’s Eifel region has long enjoyed a reputation as

an incubator for high-grade eyewear. Resident brand HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR contributes to the legacy by combining horn with other natural materials. As of recently, the brand has also been implementing titanium. For the background story on their new hybrid frames, we connected with HOFFMANN’s Philip Mautner during this issue’s photo shoot in his hometown of choice, Cologne.

136

C O L L E C T I O N U P D AT E

Hello Philip, where are you from and how long have you been part of hoffmann natural eyewear?

I was born in Stuttgart but have been living in Cologne for a while now. I’ve been on board at hoffmann natural eyewear for more than two years now.

As a native of Swabia, I received a warm welcome in the scenic Eifel region and the hoffmann family. I really enjoy it here.

Plus, I really like the contrast between the dreamy Eifel landscape and city life in Cologne. We could not agree more. What is your focus at hoffmann?

I pour a lot of heart and soul into marketing and social media. What are some of the specific challenges in your field? Since we are a family business, lots of things are handled in-house. Aside from design and craftsman manufacturing, the marketing side of things also includes our website, social media, marketing brochures, our “40 Years of Hoffmann” anniversary chronicle and POS design. That means a lot of work, but it’s also tons of fun and we are of course really proud of constantly evolving our brand image. Your image is also part of your brand name.

137

Horn and titanium: Two luxe materials in a delicate combination.

C O L L E C T I O N U P D AT E

materials sourced from nature always opens up new innovative combinations and concepts. We place great emphasis on the added value of the materials of our choosing – true to the motto: A dose of luxury for every day. This sense of luxury truly shines in Ti-Line. When

did you launch this collection?

Our new Ti-Line series recently had its official premiere at Silmo 2018 in Paris. What are the main characteristics? Minimalism, flexibility and up-to-date frame shapes meet the natural radiance of natural horn. Thanks to the titanium frame structure, the glasses are comfortably lightweight, both in terms of their aesthetics and comfort of wear. And fitting lenses is also easier than traditional horn frames. In how far can materials such as horn and titanium be brought into a harmonious union? How important is the tangible product aspect

The operative themes in our new Ti-Line

for you?

models are lightness and contrast. The

Next to the people and philosophy

two materials are strikingly different

behind the hoffmann brand, aspects

from one another – horn is warm and

like “handmade in Germany” and our

natural, while titanium is cool and rather

use of natural materials are really dear to

technical. That’s what makes these frames

me. Every visit to our manufacturer is a

so exciting.

Is the Ti-Line a fashionable extension of hoff-

special event for me. Only when you have witnessed how our frames are created by

mann natural eyewear? Are you aiming at a

hand with lots of love for detail can you

different target group with this collection?

understand what makes our glasses spe-

Natural horn is the world’s oldest material

cial. Anyone who has ever worn or held a

for eyewear. At the same time, genuine

pair of handmade horn glasses just knows

horn has retained its contemporary

their unique haptic sensation.

relevance as a frame material today. Paired

You are widely known as one of the leading

with titanium, natural horn assumes a

brands in terms of craftsmanship. And you also

fresh, modern look. From an optician’s

work with materials beyond horn, especially in

perspective, these frames are easy to fit

combination. What is your philosophy when it

with lenses and for the customer they

comes to materials?

are somewhat more affordable than a

Our focus firmly rests on natural ma-

full-on horn frame. We’re also hoping

terials and the highest level of quality.

to win over some customers who would

Our drive to constantly work with new

otherwise never consider a buffalo horn 138

C O L L E C T I O N U P D AT E

HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »T 8601«

“Highly contemporary shape, panto in an up-to-date interpretation.”

»T 8502« “Classic panto shape, easy to wear for just anyone.”

» T8 5 5 3 « “Fashionable double bridge, rims in trendy ‘oversized’ look.”

139

C O L L E C T I O N U P D AT E

HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »T8 5 0 1 «

“Daring rounded shape, understated cross bar.”

frame. And at the same time encourage opticians to get “comfortable” with this great material. So from a fashionable perspective, customers are on the safe side? Today’s eyewear customers are extremely lucky because fashion is currently headed into two opposite directions: On one hand, minimalism is dominant, on the other hand there’s a trend toward oversized designs. We adopt all these trends in our collections. In how far? We offer a rather large assortment of frames, as there are plenty of other

»T 8 6 0 2 «

collections aside from the Ti-Line. So we

“Horn takes the center stage, while the titanium temples are easy to adjust and delicate.”

are well accustomed to uniting a diversity of design aspects ‘under one roof’. The rims can be delicate or bold, models can be classic all the way to eccentric. Plus, we offer a choice between over 500 colors! And aside from natural horn, we carry natural materials such as wood or slate. How do you organize storage of all these colorways and models? It’s actually only possible because our frames are usually manufactured by hand

»T 8554«

after an order has been placed. That’s how

“Focused on the double bridge, super wearable shape.”

we can offer a such diverse line-up in the long run. How many models are part of the Ti-Line collection?

The Ti-Line offers a variety of prescription frames that are highly combinable. They are equally suited towards women and men, as well as wearers of all ages. In the latest series, we introduce three innovative types of models and every frame is available in a variety of colors. Which ones? Our focus lies with natural horn colorways, which attain their special charms from their unique grain patterns. They really complement any type of outfit! hoffmann-eyewear.com 140

Claudia Brotons. Creative director at Kaleos Eyehunters stars the new campaign #KALEOSAUTHENTICPEOPLE Discover the whole collection at MIDO. Pavilion 2 - Stand P51 R56 kaleoseyehunters.com â&#x20AC;&#x201D; @kaleoseyehunters

COLLECTION SHOOT

MR. LEIGHT

»Ich i S «

»G o S«

t ur tle n e c k ACNE S T U D IO S

t ur tle ne ck U N I Q L O

sh ir t URBAN OUTF ITT ERS

s hi r t & p ants R A L P H L A U R E N

sue d e ja c ke t & p a nt s RALP H LAU REN

belt & h a t H A B I T N YC

glo v e s WING & WEF T G LOVES

jacke t A L L SA I N T S

sca r f SEARCH AND DES T ROY b elt HABIT NYC

142

photos AN GEL IK A BU ET T N ER [NEW YORK] a ssis t ant YVON N E AL L OWAY s t yl in g ROD N OVOA a t CREAT IVESPACEART IST S h air & m a ke -up DAM IAN M ON ZIL L O a t CREAT IVESPACEART IST S mod el s COEN & EM IL a t M U SE M ODEL S NYC pos tp rod uc tion BEN EDIK T E M ESL IN

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East River Pilgrims UPDATES FROM GLCO & MR. LEIGHT

New York City is still one of our favorite locations for photo shoots – and the Brooklyn Bridge presents one of the world’s most photogenic backdrops. Our Urban Cowboys shoot turned out as a true thing of beauty, executed with a sure hand for style by our photographer Angelika Buettner. As the stars of the shoot we brought in two leading U.S. designer brands for an all-American production: GLCO and MR. LEIGHT. By the way, the highly coveted glasses made their way back to the West Coast in true cowboy style, on horseback.

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“A classically styled larger acetate frame refreshed with exposed metal hinges and adjustable nose pads paired with CR39 sun lenses.”

GLCO

»Su n be a ch« -

t ur tle ne ck AC N E ST U D I O S s hi r t R A F SI M O N S jacke t R A L P H L A U R E N

Los Angeles has always been a city of dreams and fantastic stories – larger than life and eternal classics. As a brand based in the City of Angels, garrett leight california optical

(GLCO) is drawing inspiration from

GLCO

classic Hollywood narratives. For their

the California label is taking notes

s w e a t e r TOPM AN

from big screen gems such as Ame-

ja cke t ALL SAINTS

rican Gigolo and Scarface in timeless

sh ir t AS OS

reinterpretations of classic acetate and

Spring/Summer 2019 collection,

»Wa v e c re s t «

metal frames. The result is an on-trend “An angular Wayfarer style with a prominent brow and temples paired with semiflat polarized sunglass lenses.”

balance of retro elements and timeless features, served in era-appropriate colorways – light pastels and rich browns create a Technicolor-hued California vibe. 144

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GLCO

»B e a ch« -

coa t B A R N E Y ’S N Y p olos hi r t T O P M A N “A timeless shape for men and women made with a mix of metal and acetate and adjustable nose pads for a perfect fit on each wearer.”

145

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Exploring different horizons, the second brand under the label‘s umbrella – the father-and-son venture mr. leight – bridges the gap between the cultures and architectural styles of Japan and the United States. Geometric details in the current Winter collection draw on Japan‘s creative heavyweights such as fashion designer Issey Miyake, film director Akira Kurosawa and designer Rei Kawakubo. These influences lead to a collection that balances the classic and

MR. LEIGHT

the contemporary.

»G o S «

garrettleight.com // mrleight.com

red t u r t le n e c k U N IQ LO shi r t V IN TA G E d e n i m s GUCCI poncho WILD WES T, U S A

“A classic acetate style inspired by the eyewear worn by legendary filmmaker Akira Kurosawa and designer Rei Kawakubo updated with titanium bridge and eye wire accent featuring glass lenses with polarized options.”

“An alternative version of our new aviator optical style with acetate inserts and temple tips and a unique filigree pattern influenced by traditional Japanese floral motifs.”

146

MR. LEIGHT »Ichi C«

s ui t GO L D E N GO O SE s hi r t P R A DA bolo tie W I L D W E ST, U SA

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bl ack s hi r t P R A DA jacke t T O P SH O P s car f R E M I N I SC E N C E N Y

MR. LEIGHT »Ichi S«

whi t e t ur tle ne ck U N I Q L O glov e s W I N G & W E FT GL OV E S

jacke t C A LV I N K L E I N “A slightly smaller counterpart to the metal aviator with sculpted titanium construction contrasting acetate inserts and polarized glass lenses in deep, rich tones.”

147

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JEAN-FRANÇOIS REY » Ho o v e r« -

tre nchcoa t ALBERTA F ERRET T I, shoe s N AN D O M U Z I

»Wa v e« -

jacke t & s hi r t D O L C E & GA B B A N A 148

photos SAC H A TA SSI L O H Ö C H ST E T T E R [NICE] mod el C A N D I C E a t TA L E N T SM O D E L S s t yli n g R O SA N N A T R I N C H E SE s p e c i al th anks to E Z E H E R M I TAGE H O T E L I N E ZE N IZZA

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EVERY LAYER JEAN-FRANÇOIS REY

Creative, innovative and up-to-

date: This has been the brand DNA of eyewear label jean-françois rey since the 1980s. The tradi-

tional company with craftsman manufacturing in the Jura region has made a name for itself by releasing groundbreaking frame constructions in a variety of color and form constellations. Along the way, jeanfrançois rey has been evolving through a number of

collaborations and independent labels. Under the theme Creative Duality, the 2019 collection is all about creative diversity. The frames make a strong visual impact based on color contrasts, graphic line patterns, high precision, lightness and delicate details. The combination of metal and acetate – a major success in the Double Jeu line – carries

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JEAN-FRANÇOIS REY »Fl a t lin e r1« -

t ur tle ne ck B E L I M O U SI N E

over into this collection, paired with the layering of materials, slim lines and colorful contrasts, which have helped jean-françois rey achieve strong graphical effects since the start. Aside from delicate metal frame, the new concept contains vintage models in true 1980s fashion. Here’s a look at the playful and colorful collection in signature jean-françois rey style.

JEAN-FRANÇOIS REY »R ebir t h« -

s hi r t B E L I M O U SI N E 150

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JEAN-FRANÇOIS REY »Flipup« -

coa t N 2 1 , s hor ts & top M I U MIU 151

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JEAN-FRANÇOIS REY »Fl a t lin e r2« -

t ed d y B E L I M O U SI NE

152

CHECK OUR SPECTR IN MOTION SECTION FOR THE LATEST VIDEOS WITH TOP NOTCH DESIGNER LABELS AND FIND YOUR INSPIRATION FOR CONTEMPORARY EYEWEAR.

BY L IN DA B OE S E

[ROSTOCK]

s t yli n g M A R C E L L A V E R W E Y E N a t K AT HRIN HOHBERG h ai r & m ake - up SO FA O B L I NA mod els L A U R A a t M O D E L M A NAGEMENT HAMBU RG &

ALEXANDER at PMA HAMBURG

156

MARC O’POLO

»505066«

»505072«

kimono S USUM U AI

dre ss SU SU M U A I

s hi r t HUGO BOSS

ca rd i gan I R I S VO N A R N I M

trou s e r s AM OR LU X

157

EINSTOFFEN

»S e i d e ns ticke r « -

s hi r t SCOTCH& SODA

158

EINSTOFFEN

»Pe rl t a uch e r « -

jumpsuit STINE GOYA blou s e SU SU MU AI

159

BARTON PERREIRA » L e nox « -

pu l lov e r AM O R LU X t rou s e r s C H EAP M O N DAY sn e a ke r s N IKE

BARTON PERREIRA »C a pti va nt« -

dre ss SU SU MU AI sh ir t DIESEL s hoe s CONVERSE

160

GÖTTI

» Da nio«

»S amsa«

coa t S T U T T E R H E I M

pullov e r I R I S VO N A R N I M dre ss SU SU M U A I jacke t A L P H A I N SU ST R I E S

161

BLACKFIN

» L a gun a B e a ch«

»Su n nysi d e«

ja c ke t , p a nt s & sh ir t SC O T C H & SO DA

jumps ui t ST I N E GOYA

sn e a ke r s N IK E

blou s e SU SU M U A I

162

163

LINDBERG »8 3 1 7 « -

coa t DESIGNERS REMIX dre ss SU SU MU AI bel t SCHU MACHER

164

JEAN-FRANÇOIS REY »Me mphis« -

pullov e r B A R B O U R jacke t A L P H A I N D U ST R I E S 165

L.G.R

»Nom a d « -

polo sh ir t PAIGE card i gan IRIS VON ARNIM jacke t BARBOU R

L.G.R

» Te b e « -

d re ss S T IN E G OYA blou s e S U S U M U AI p oncho S C O T C H &S O DA

166

Through the micro glass THEME SHOOT

MINIMAL FRAMES FOR MAXIMUM ST YLE

LINDBERG »831 7 «

A slim model from lindberg’s current Titanium Collection. As a strong eye catcher, the mini cat eye style features semi-transparent lenses for a big statement.

ANDY WOLF »E l i z a S un«

Unmistakable metal frames from the Austrian craftsman manufacturers. The very specially shaped micro frame in bright yellow is also available in a variety of bright colorways.

photo RAPHAEL S C H M IT Z As a direct throwback to the 1990s, the latest trend in eyewear design revolves around

LE SPECS

frames with a minimal form

»L o v e Tra in«

factor. Introducing Micro Frames.

Big things come in small packages, including these minimalist frames with a classic oval silhouette in a modern interpretation. Semi-flat lenses conspire with adjustable nose pads for an individually fitted style statement.

The numbers of these mini accessories are growing rapidly, while the frames themselves keep getting smaller. It’s a bit of a déjà vu, as Micro Frames already made a big splash in Hollywood during the 1990s as the darlings of actors and VIP types. For proof, take a quick look at some

HAFFMANS & NEUMEISTER

of the most successful blockbuster movies from that era,

»Poinca r é «

including The Matrix, Sister Act

The 1880s-inspired wire design returns in a 2019 interpretation that’s bound to wow audiences. The focus of the antique, minimal oval frame is a crossed saddle bridge that’s signature haffmans & neumeister style.

or Wild Wild West. Tiny frames made a major impression on the Big Screen – now they’re back to disrupt today’s eyewear fashions in a major way.

167

UNLEASH FREE SPIRIT # notbychance

Frame by Nina Mûr: Winner of the

of opti 2018.

COLLECTION CHECK

its high-profile social media presence, the

40TH ANNIVERSARY WITH TROMPE L’OEIL COLLECTION t e x t DIRK VOGEL, photos EDA C ALIS T I, im a ge pic s LE SPE C S

brand is especially popular with millennial customers. That’s no surprise, as the list of celebrity endorsers reads like a who’s who of international pop culture, including names such as Lady Gaga, Gigi Hadid, Rihanna and Kendall Jenner. Fashion bible Vogue magazine recently concluded: “le specs were the must-have shades of Photogenic summer lifestyles from Down Under.

2017.”

With deep roots in the Australian surfing hotbed of Bondi Beach, le specs has been stoking fans with equally trendy and wearable sunglasses since 1979. The fun and extravagant designs – plus a humungous selection at affordable price points – have built an international community for the brand. “Our philosophy is to ensure well designed

In its first RX collection, LE SPECS is implementing acetate and stainless steel.

LE SPECS »Spot li ght «

eyewear is accessible. We encourage people to love life, be happy and discover moments to escape the everyday.“ Creative Director Hamish Tame is in charge of the lifestyle brand’s design department, while le specs has also been known to collaborate with world-renowned designers on new collections, including the likes

»G ran d E nt rance «

of Adam Selman and Henry Holland. Due to 169

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TROMPE L’OEIL COLLECTION For their ambitious expansion into the prescription segment, le specs enlisted style support from an international expert. “Continuing our pioneering formula of collaborating with the world’s most influential designers and artisans, the collection has been designed in

For the 40th brand anniversary in 2019, the

collaboration with renowned eyewear

team at le specs is far from resting on its

designer Blake Kuwahara, who is

laurels. The big news: For the first time in

recognized as one of the preeminent

company history, the iconic brand is laun-

designers in eyewear and winner of

ching a prescription eyewear collection that

the Silmo d’Or award,” said the team

remains true to the trendy designs and rich

at le specs.

variety in their brand DNA. And since the

The collection theme is, “afford-

RX-frames will also be sold in optical retail

able optical frames that never com-

from now on, SPECTR took a closer look at

promise in fashionability, quality

the brand-new Trompe l’Oeil collection.

or detail.” A first look at the Trompe l’Oeil collection instantly reveals an impressive range of stylistic diversity that is almost overwhelming. The premier RX-offering comprises gentlemanly charms of the 1950s together with 1980s-style Miami Vice flavors and edgy minimalism inspired by the 1990s. In order to keep things manageable, the Trompe l’Oeil collection is divided into six themes:

LE SPECS »C him e ra«

»Il l u sion«

170

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accents with three-dimensional details on The Minimalist contains flat, reduc-

the temples and minimalistic logo place-

tionist silhouettes, Normcore presents

ment. A key selling point for opticians: The

clear lines and Nineties-inspired

flexible PVC nose pads can be adjusted to the

shapes, Grit & Glamour dazzles with

individual wearer, while select models in the

generous silhouettes for roaring par-

Trompe l’Oeil collection are available as “Low

ties, Sirens revolves around feminine

Bridge Styles” for customers with high cheek

frames with refined details, Sartorial

bones. And to make lens fitting a breeze, the

harkens back to masculine style icons

frames contain V-shaped ridges.

Executed with a love for detail.

»V ice«

»Notor ie t y«

Acepelit re volora siminti scidunt quid quam aut et quia qu

such as James Dean, while Miami Vice rounds out the portfolio with oversized metal frames in a 1980s vibe. In terms of materials, le specs is playing with allergy-friendly and colorful cellulose acetate as well as anti-allergenic and featherlight stainless steel. The hinges by OBE implement German craftsmanship, while designer Blake Kuwahara sets stylistic 171

COLLECTION CHECK

LE SPECS »W il d e r n e ss«

collection is bound to make a major impact in the optical eyewear segment. Before the end of the year, the brand is looking to add

»Hou s e Pa r t y «

yet another dozen RX-frames. The verdict: True to the motto ‘Go Big or Stay Home’, le specs is making an impressive debut in prescription eyewear

The new frames will hit retail in a high-quality, navy blue hard case embossed with the company motto: Live, Love, Le Specs. As retailers will see, le specs’ first foray into prescription frames is a major endeavor: At a total of 23 models, the new Trompe l’Oeil Discrete logo placement at the temple tip.

with self-confident and highly versatile

»T he Man n e r is t «

designs that don’t hold back. After 40 years in the game, the surf lifestyleinspired brand still knows how to make

»E xi s t e nce «

waves. lespecs.com

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MODO

ECO

»459«

»E yre«

DEREK LAM »Br itt«

The number three figures prominently in many cultures, religions, the natural sciences and especially mathematics. In geometry for instance, a triangle presents the smallest possible space offering a view of the middle from myriad perspectives. Different perspectives also play an important role for global eyewear powerhouse modo. On that note, the company is directed from three major company headquarters, which draw on their respective cosmopolitan significance

MODO’S 360°APP

to infuse the brand with unique accents: Milan is known as

these influences to build a multi-faceted

the world’s fashion metropolis, New York City as the urban

identity. The resulting design DNA is

melting pot and Stockholm as the Scandinavian design ca-

marked by reducing frames to their most

pital. These three hotbeds not only influence the company’s

simplistic beauty – and luxury for modo is

thought processes, but also the design language. True to the

achieved by boiling it all down to essentials.

motto “being global and local at the same time”, modo uses

As it happens, three is also the number of brands under the modo umbrella. The company views itself as a purveyor of eyewear that is individual, but not exclusive. And along those lines, each of the three

photos AVA P IVO T [BERLIN] mo d els M ARLA, D IAN A & T O M M Y a t IC O N IC m a ke - up AN TJ E KRAU S E re touch KU S H T RIM KU N U S H EVC I

brands in the trinity exhibits its own vibe.

174

PROACH

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ECO

DEREK LAM

»Os ak a«

»284«

MODO

»4086«

MODO As the main brand, modo follows a form language based on the concept that “design is driven by functionality”. Architecture often serves as a major influence for the minimalist designs, executed in innovative materials such

DEREK LAM

as ultralight titanium. Manufacturing

Rounding out the portfolio, boutique brand derek lam makes a

processes draw on high-tech from areas

statement through “luxury without formality”. Inspired by West Coast

such as motorsports, including the

American icons from the ’70s but reinterpreted with a touch of mo-

R1000 or 3D Carbon Series.

dernity, all models are gold-plated by hand in Japan and finished with genuine leather inserts.

ECO

“I wear nature”. eco takes inspiration from nature and walks the walk all the way into manufacturing processes based on sustainability and environment-friendliness. The brand’s eco materials are sourced from renewable or recycled materials and transformed into highly reductionist designs. 175

MODO

»6 90«

»B e ssie«

DEREK LAM

ECO

»Hel si n k i «

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ECO

»Har i«

176

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DEREK LAM »L orain e«

177

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DEREK LAM »2 9 0 «

Finally, the company is dedicated to a social mission with all three brands. As a global eyewear powerhouse, modo takes responsibility beyond the eyewear segment, for instance by supporting environmental initiatives like “One Frame – One Tree”. What’s more, the “Buy a Frame – Help a Child See” program conducts eye exams in India and supports children in need with glasses. It’s all part of the same story for modo, or what the brand calls the 360° approach. modo.com

178

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ECO

MODO

»B r i sb a n e «

»4419«

179

t e x t F RAN CA RAIN E R, photos EDA CAL IST I

L A B E L U P D AT E

EINSTOFFEN UNCHAINED COLLECTION

EINSTOFFEN »Ma tol ga «

»Kon s t r u kt e u r«

»S chn a psb re nne r «

180

L A B E L U P D AT E

For the title of this year’s Spring collection, eyewear brand einstoffen chose Unchained as a

battle cry for freedom. Another pop culture reference, perhaps staying true to the cineaste brand’s tradition for frame names of meaning behind the Unchained Collection become inspired by blockbuster films? Or perhaps a political statement

apparent, which our Label Update reveals. On one hand, the creatives see Unchained as a strong

in light of current turmoil on the commitment to independence. That’s because even ten world stage? Upon closer ins-

years after its founding, einstoffen still firmly belongs

pection, the many different layers entirely to its four original founders – a clear statement against the rise of large-scale retail chains, major investors and mainstream distributors. The brand has grown lers and kept the faith through the years. In that light, Unchained can be considered as a gesture of gratitude and appreciation of solidarity to einstoffen’s customers, who will probably prove even more loyal to the brand in the future. On the other hand, Unchained marks a clear break in the brand’s established design language. Although einstoffen has built a reputation mostly for working

with wood as a raw frame material and their wooden frames have garnered a total of four German Design Awards in 2018 and 2019, the Unchained collection marks an emancipation. A move away from being tied down to working with wood or stone in all designs. Case in point: The new collection’s »Konstrukteur« model features a thin-rimmed titanium frame, which despite the total absence of wood stays true to the einstoffen design DNA. Then again, the brand also remains faithful to natural materials: As a true collection standout, the »Silberschmied« sunglasses frame is crafted from elegantly grained woods such as peach root. The frame combines subtle micro-engravings and natural wood grain on warm natural licorice – all hand-crafted of course. Speaking of sunglasses, the Swiss brand likes to play with matted reflective lenses as well as clip-ons that can be tailored toward the individual customer. This once again pays homage to the many individualists in the brand’s fan base, which has enjoyed the einstoffen offering from day one. In the prescription segment, the »Schnapsbrenner« is a stunner featuring a heated natural acetate front section paired with wooden temples. With the Unchained Collection, the creatives at einstoffen are breaking free from preestablished conceptions regarding their brand in the eyewear community. Freed from any types of restraints, einstoffen still remains einstoffen while daring to be different and taking the brand to new creative heights. einstoffen.ch 181

The model »Silversmith« captivates with elegant grains and micro engravings on the temples.

»Konstrukteur« – delicate with an upscale finish.

to prominence with the support of independent retai-

CAZAL »743« -

top M A R C I A N O be anie R E E B O K

CAZAL

»9077« -

t u r t le n e c k UNIQ LO

182

CAZAL

»3056« -

blos e & jacke t B A U M & P F ERDGARTEN

BY S ac h a Ta s s il o H öc h s te tte r

[MUNICH]

a ss i s t ant N O E M I V E R O L L A h ai r & m ake - up P H I L I P P L AW R E N C E s t yli n g A L E X A N D R A D I E T L mod els ST E P H I E , C A R O, GI A N L U C A , SA N D R A & DAV I D

183

KBL

»I am a b e rl ine r « -

jacke t MANGO s hi r t DESIGU AL p ants B AU M & P F ERDGARTEN s hoe s KARL L AGERF EL D

184

KBL

» Tre sor « -

ja c ke t LEVI’S shir t CHEAP M ONDAY t e e & d e n i m s QUIKS ILVER 185

S A LT.

» Sh e r r i -Ann« -

su it M ARC EL O S T ER TAG top AS O S shoe s M AN G O

186

S A LT.

»Don l a n « -

ja cke t TIGER OF S WED EN sh ir t TOPM AN p a nt s TIGER OF SWED EN sho e s SAM SOE& SAM SO E b a g COCINELLE

S A LT.

»She r r i -A nn« -

dre ss E S CADA s car f & c ycl in g shor ts ASOS socks H AP PY SOCKS s hoe s C AT WAL K

187

I-SPAX

»C huck« -

coa t P OC suit TIGER OF SWEDEN sh ir t ASOS socks S T Y L I S T ’S O W N shoe s REEBOK ne ckl ace M O D E L’S O W N

I-SPAX » Je ssie « -

sh ir t C O S p a nt s P IC T U RE

188

HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »2287« -

s ui t T O P M A N s hi r t A K L I M A s hoe s R E E B O K hip ba g GU E SS bucke t h a t ST U T T E R H E I M

189

KAREN WALKER »Wan d e rl u s t« -

s ui t E SC A DA hood ie R I C H & ROYAL ba g SA M SO E & S AMSOE

KAREN WALKER »K iss y K iss y « -

suit ARENA kimono ESCADA

KAREN WALKER » S h ipwre ck s« -

top & p a nt s AS O S 190

MASSADA »Poga ny « -

blou s e MARCEL OSTERTAG top ASOS h a t COS

191

ØRGREEN »Crow«

ØRGREEN

» B ell a C o ol a« -

coa t & t u r t le ne ck SA M SO E & SA M SO E v e s t ARYS

ØRGREEN »Yum a « -

s hi r t T IGER OF SWEDEN ne ckl ace AIGNER

192

ØRGREEN »Moduc « -

s ui t R E E B O K s hi r t B E L STA FF hat COS

ØRGREEN

» B ell a C o ol a « -

sk ir t & blou s e S T IN E G OYA top M Y KKE H O F F M AN N sca r f BAU M & P F ERD GART E N

ØRGREEN »Crow « -

jumpsuit ST INE GOYA top ESSENT IEL ANTWERP hipba g REEBOK

193

MARTIN & MARTIN » B e n« -

pu llov e r T O M TAILO R s ki r t ES S EN T IEL AN T W ERP b elt MBY M s ho e s M AN G O t i g ht s FALKE

194

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MAKELLOS »J ū r ō z a e mon Isoga i«

»S ō e mon Hara «

»C h i k a ra Ō ish i«

196

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Courage, honor, and uncon-

MAKELLOSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; TRIBUTE TO A JAPANESE LEGEND

ditional loyalty: These traits provide all the elements for an exciting story. A story much like the one told by

photos RAP H AEL S C H M I T Z

eyewear manufacturer makellos this season:

47 Ronin is one of the most prominent myths in all of Japanese culture. It goes like this: In 1701, the lord Asano receives the honorable assignment to greet delegates of the emperor. In preparation for mastering this welcome ceremony in accordance to the strict rules of the royal court, he is paired with master of ceremonies Kira Kozuke to teach him etiquette. But right from the start, their relationship is strained and ultimately ends in disaster. After being pub-

licly humiliated by the master of ceremonies, Asano turns his blade on Lord Kira. Although Kira is only slightly wounded in the clash, Asano has sealed his own fate as it is strictly forbidden to even touch a master of ceremonies. As a result, Kira is sentenced to death by Seppuku, the ritualistic suicide by his own sword. He leaves behind 197

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his 300 samurai, who are then left to roam the land as master-

All 47 are offered to also commit Seppuku and are

less and dishonored fighters,

buried in a row of graves next to their master.

called Ronin. That’s when the 47

In their latest collection, makellos decided to

Ronin decide to heed their code

dedicate one pair of sunglasses to each of the 47

of honor and avenge their master,

heroes, named after the respective Ronin warrior.

in full knowledge that the death

For design inspiration, the brand drew on classic

of the master of ceremonies will

Samurai armor. Design elements include so-called

also mean ending their own

Yoroi, the traditional armor, bands, as well as the

lives. For more than two years, they plot their vengeance in the underground and finally succeed in ambushing and killing Kira. After having reinstated their master’s honor, they voluntarily surrender to the authorities.

MAKELLOS »Ta d a shichi Ta ke b a ya s h i«

»S a wa e mon Yosh i d a «

Kabuto (helmet) and Katana, the famous long sword wielded by the Samurai. The result is a rather sizeable collection dedicated to a world of heroes and values that may seem extravagant in modern times. Then again, why not? After all, the 47 Ronin Collection by makellos not only boasts gorgeous designs with an eye for detail, but also extends an invitation to dream of ancient tales in which people’s lives were determined by courage, honor, and loyalty. And who needs a master when you can roam the land in style in one of these beautiful specs? makellos-potsdam.de 198

eco-optics.com

OPTI | Munich | YES | C2 631

MIDO | Milano | Design Lab | Booth P11 R14

PORSCHE DESIGN »P ’8355 « -

p ants A R MANI EXCHANGE jacke t D O NDU P

200

PORSCHE DESIGN »P ’8355« -

s ki r t & t urle ne ck J IL SANDER

BY B e l a Ra b a

[CYPRUS]

a ss i s t ants E R W I N GE P T I N G & L E FT E R I S K A L s t yli n g L O I Z O S SO FO K L E O U S m ake - up VA L E N T I N O N I C O L AO U & KSE N I A VO L KOVA h ai r KSE N I A VO L KOVA mod els A SH LY N N & SE P a t AC E M O D E L S

201

RODENSTOCK »R7082« -

s hi r t & s w e a t e r A R M A N I E XC H A N GE

202

BOZ

dre ss D O N D U P

top & p ants DONDU P

»Ha van e«

203

»Hone y «

EYEVAN 7285 »7 7 2 ( 4 7 ) « -

coa t ELLERY

204

MASSADA

» R a sh ō mon« -

s hi r t M ARN I

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SILHOUETTE »552 5 « -

ja cke t M ARNI p a nts & s ho e s ARM A N I EXC H AN G E

SILHOUETTE »5508« -

s w e a t e r & p ants T W I N SE T

206

MASUNAGA »F ut u ra « -

s hi r t J I L SANDER coa t T W INSET

207

LINDBERG » 9609 « -

skir t & top VICTORIA BE C KH AM

LINDBERG »9 5 9 5 « -

s w e a t e r MARNI

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PHILANTHROPIC EYEWEAR OPTI 2019 - HALL C1 STAND 632

photos RAP H AEL SCH M IT Z

NEW IN TOWN

SMART, SMALL, SEXY

For almost ten years, eyewear label seeoo has been dedicated to quick reading glasses Made in Austria. The eureka moment behind the brand happened when founder Gerald Lasnik discovered his grandfather’s old pince-nez in the attic. Fascinated by the simple efficiency of the product, he decided to fill it with new life: This marked the birth of seeoo. In 2019, the company based in the scenic

The Lasniks made the pince-nez without temples their calling card, replete with

Styria region brings three outstanding pro-

rounded shapes and the characteristic corner

ducts to the mix. Aside from the signature

as the common denominator throughout the

pince-nez variations, the line also includes

entire collection and clear sign of a seeoo frame.

Above unique designs, the brand places emphasis on functionality. The main guideline is ‘quick reading’, whether it’s swiftly checking a text message on a tiny display or the wine menu in a dimly-lit restaurant. seeoo eyewear springs into action anywhere,

in no time. The immense potential behind reading glasses also becomes apparent by the fact that a label like ic! berlin has already launched a collab together with the Austrian brand.

210

classic reading glasses, all with the same focus on quick reading. Functionality, packability, and instant usability are the main criteria – next to premium quality and modern design language.

NEW IN TOWN

MINI READER The »Mini Reader« takes packability to new levels. Also only 4mm thick, it attaches directly to smartphones and is the first full-fledged reading spectacle stowed directly on this gadget.

SLIM READER The »Slim Reader« is a reading spectacle only 4mm thick and equipped with Zeiss lenses. Absolutely high-end and 100-percent functional.

SEEOO SUN X LASNIK These sunglasses are available in a strictly limited edition in two colorways. Only 50 units of these micro-shades have been produced.

211

P H I L O S O P H Y TA L K

por tra i t SACHA TASSILO H Ö C H S T ET T ER s tills EDA CALISTI

At only 33 years of age, Adrian Marwitz ranges among the rather young generation of eyewear designers. His eponymous eyewear label, which he founded in 2013, is known for high-end titanium frames. But recently Adrian has decided it’s time for a new direction in distribution and marketing. This move was inspired by the painful realization that the eyewear industry is undergoing fundamental structural changes. True to the motto ‘less is more’, the Munich-based brand is pursuing a radical step towards becoming a leaner and more efficient organization. It might even inspire other labels to do the same...

212

P H I L O S O P H Y TA L K

ADRIAN MARWITZ »St ran ge r No. 28«

LESS IS MORE – MORE OR LESS

» Stran ge r No. 38«

ADRIAN MARWITZ’S LEAN DISTRIBUTION STRATEGY

Hello Adrian, with adrian marwitz you have

always lots and lots of new stuff. Every

everything in stock to fulfill customer

been part of the industry for six years. Now you

sales rep and distributor needed their

requests in a timely manner.

are pursuing an entirely new direction?

own, entirely new set of samples. At one

Are you not prioritizing certain products in

point, our collection consisted of nearly

terms of stock-keeping?

That’s correct. What was wrong with the way things were

300 frames. And that means 300 pairs of

You would really have to be a genius to

going?

glasses that first need to be manufactured

be able to predict which model in which

Ever since we started, we have always

just to have something to show people –

colorway will sell the most.

seen strong growth. But with our increa-

without having sold a single one. At 15

What were the ultimate consequences of this

sing number of customers and distribu-

sets of samples you’re looking at produ-

pattern?

tion partners also came a rising level of demands. More colors, more shapes, more

cing 4500 pairs of glasses. What was the problem?

This way of doing business leads to large amounts of leftover stock and unsellable

advertising, more new models. Every-

For a high-end label looking to protect

inventory. It leads to producing way

body wanted something different. But

our brand, it was almost impossible to

too much product, which you end up

most importantly, they wanted more and

sell all these frames. Plus, we had to keep

throwing away – or letting it rot in your

213

P H I L O S O P H Y TA L K

ADRIAN MARWITZ »Un i v e r su s No. 7 «

basement. And that hurts! How are you going to break the cycle in the future?

to problems while trying to act differently.

this fact and have already changed their

What will change in your distribution structure?

positioning to bank more on ‘indepen-

I have already parted ways with several

dent brands’. But most of them are always

First of all, we are looking to produce

customers and markets that didn’t share

choosing the same ones, rendering the

the minimum possible amount of excess

our philosophy. We are only accepting

whole thing senseless. Many are also still

inventory. So as a result, we are only

new accounts in exceptional cases while

buying brands that are available at huge

producing based on demand. This means

focusing on Germany, Switzerland and

chains or online retailers. In some absurd

a bit longer wait time for our customers,

Taiwan. Our long-time Swiss sales rep

cases, they even work together with on-

but they can have a better feeling selling

will also cover Germany. But he will only

line retailers as ‘partner opticians’. All in

the product. We are currently testing the

be there two times per year. In my opini-

hopes of attracting online customers into

direct logistic connection between manu-

on it’s really sufficient to visit opticians

their stores. So they’re making little to

facturer and optician. It makes no sense

once or twice annually. All my customers

no money, but somehow feel that they’re

for the product to first be delivered to us.

also confirmed this view.

‘digital’.

Direct shipping is better and has a lower

So will you be using tradeshows more to

What exactly are the threats for the traditional

environmental impact. Plus, we are also

connect with opticians?

retail system?

currently working with Fraunhofer IGD

No, just the opposite. We will no longer

Most obviously digital transformation,

on further automated processes.

exhibit at tradeshows. The exchange with

which we should not and cannot try to

So you have completely eliminated your own

customers is going to happen directly,

defend ourselves against. We just have

warehouse?

either on the phone or in real life.

to be conscious of it and find a system in

Why are tradeshows no longer relevant to you?

which we can still maintain our position

For instance when we can be certain that

Tradeshows have become a mere marke-

in the market. New concepts such as Viu

a model in a specific color is going to get

ting battle. Who can afford the prettiest

or Ace & Tate and Mr. Spex are looking

lots of sales.

and most buzzing booth? Who has the

to fundamentally transform the indust-

What are the consequences for your

best paid actors pretending to be custo-

ry, and they will. These are the so-called

collections?

mers? Who has the coolest outfits and can

‘digital disruptors’ in the classic sense.

The philosophy behind our collections

act the most arrogant? The whole thing

Companies with lots of venture capital

remains unchanged: only three new lines

has entirely lost its sense of humanity and

and marvelous growth rates. But ulti-

the food is mostly gross anyway.

mately, their success is not due to the

We only stock product in rare exceptions.

per year. Is that your version of mindfulness and

You will also no longer be running ad cam-

‘evil’ end consumer, but the inertness of

sustainability?

paigns. Instead you are looking to focus entirely

the ‘old’ industry.

Sustainability has become such a trendy

on products. That’s really against the current

In how far will you be able to make a counter-

catchphrase. The whole thing just makes

trend of brands looking to tell more stories

statement with your new concept and strategy?

sense. It’s an attempt to encourage our

around their products in order to charge their

I believe that I’m the first in our industry

small optical community to change its

brand with an image.

to go down that route. It’s a pilot project,

ways. Mindfulness is the logical conse-

That’s our story right there. We don’t

so let’s see it as a pioneering effort. We

quence. Independent opticians are also

need an artificial image. We have a real

will have to see if it’s going to work out. If

forced to hold their own against the

statement, and that is our product.

increasingly strong competition from

The eyewear industry is still marked by an

online opticians and ‘retail brands’. In

extraordinarily large number of brands and

my opinion, that works best by offering a

sales outlets. Is that going to change?

counter-movement. Alerting consumers

Clearly. Many opticians have realized 214

not, it’s not the end of the world. That sounds rather laid back. Thanks, Adrian.

adrianmarwitz.com

B R A N D U P D AT E

WARMING ST IN FREEZING T

KARMOIE »Nucle u s«

216

photos ST EFAN DON GU S, t ale nt K IL IAN K RÜ L L

B R A N D U P D AT E

YLES TIMES

»C a pt ain «

How about exciting new models for all kinds of wardrobes,

» O r i gami«

peppered with a dose of rock ’n’ roll or understated elegance? Look no further than Scandinavian brand karmoie with a broad collection of acetate frames hand-made in Italy and a recognizable brand DNA (despite all the variety). The Norwegian brand also follows a social mission in its company philosophy: Giving back to the world. For every pair sold, founders Kirsten and Lars Iversen donate a pair of prescription eyewear to relief organizations. A great concept behind convincing designs. And it’s even greater that several styles are available as both RX-versions and sunglasses. Some nice warmth during the cold season. karmoie.com

217

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LE SPECS

» V ice «

»L’A v v e nt u

220

LE SPECS

ura «

»D e e p S h a d e «

BY Ava P ivo t

[BERLIN]

h a ir WATARU S UZUK I m a ke -up TINA F ISCHBAC H a t BAS IC S BERLIN s t ylin g LENA HOF F M ANN v ia LEN AS LOVELY VIN TAG E mo d els K RIS TA T., CHAR M IE & ALIN A a t IC O N IC re touch KUSHTRIM KUNU S H EVC I

221

NEUBAU »L isa«

222

NEUBAU »Max«

223

FACE À FACE

» G ips e 2 «

»B owie 1«

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FACE À FACE »P r ism 2«

225

IC! BERLIN

»T he Dre a m e r «

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MODO

»4 5 8 «

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MODO

»690«

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ANDY WOLF

»L isa«

ANDY WOLF

» Kol b e «

»E z ra «

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