SPECTR issue #40 by Monday Publishing GmbH

SPECTR

INTERNATIONAL EYEWEAR FASHION MAGAZINE

NO. 40 // JANUARY 2024 EUR 15,– // ENGLISH

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M A DE I N AU ST R I A

49 CAPTIVATING CRAFTSMANSHIP

The Artistry Of MATSUDA’s AW23 Eyewear

“Curated 2024 Sunglasses Frames” By Brix & Maas

“Still Life Shoot” By Nocera & Ferri

ELEVATE YOUR STYLE

MAKE A STATEMENT

Advanced Lens Technology For Land, Sea & Air

“Color Blocking” By Sophia Daum

106

SUSTAINABLE SPECIAL

Vision With Value: Eyewear From HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR, ROLF, SILHOUETTE And ECO

#PLANETROLF

Rebranding – Beyond the Eco-Hype

Elegance Of Titanium X Beauty Of Gold

216

200

SNOW WHITE & ROSE RED

CITY BOYS & ISLAND VIBES

SPECTR // CONTENT

DITA LANCIER

144

ETNIA BARCELONA YOKOHAMA 24K

PAPER ART

164

New BARTON PERREIRA Styles

“Spotted in Sardinia” By Narènte

168

170

MODO LEGACY

COLLAGE COUTURE

4 Titanium Frames To Rule Them All

“Reframing Reality” By Joseph Ford

73 RAW & NOBLE

Explore The Depths Of EINSTOFFEN’s Evolving Vision

114

126

132

“Titanium Frames” By Florian Renner

A Tribute To The LUNOR M16

“Female Top Styles” By Rachel Jiam

FACES OF EMPIRE

THE BEAUTY OF SIMPLICITY

150 SISTERS IN MIND

“The Art of Acetate” By Narente

SHADED SOPHISTICATION

162 J. F. REY GOES SUNGLASSES

A Premiere For The French Brand

182

212

214

3D SPECIAL

LUNOR CLASSIC RUND

THE PASSING OF TIME AND ITS BEAUTY

High Tech Frames From YOU MAWO, KLENZE & BAUM, GÖTTI And ØRGREEN

A Classic Reissued In Gold

KALEOS Celebrates Its 10th Birthday

222 VISIONS BY THE LAKE

“Casual Friday Shoot” By Ivon Wolak

T SPECTR // CONTENT

IMPRINT

EDITOR IN CHIEF STEFAN DONGUS [Cologne] dongus@spectr-magazine.com m: +49.(0)151.14271817 LAYOUT CARO ROSS [Cologne] ross@spectr-magazine.com EDITORIAL STAFF MEIKE PRECKEL [Cologne] preckel@spectr-magazine.com HOLGER VON KROSIGK [Cologne] krosigk@spectr-magazine.com PROOFREADING PETER ASHFORD [London] INSA MUTH [Dortmund] FRANCA RAINER [Berlin] TRANSLATION HOLGER VON KROSIGK [Cologne] ONLINE EDITOR MEIKE PRECKEL [Cologne] CARO ROSS [Cologne] PHOTOGRAPHERS/PRODUCERS BRIX & MAAS [Berlin]

ZOO »zebu-90005«

CHANTAL CADUFF [Bern] SOPHIE DAUM [Hamburg] WILLIAM FERCHICHI [New York] JOSEPH FORD [London] ULRICH HARTMANN [Berlin]

“Faces Of Empire” by Florian Renner (pages 114 – 124)

DAVOR JELUSIC [Barcelona] RACHEL JIAM [Berlin] NARĒNTE // LUCIO ARU + FRANCO ERRE [Sardinia] NOCERA & FERRI [London] FLORIAN RENNER [London] RAPHAEL SCHMITZ [Dusseldorf] VERCE [Wuppertal] IVON WOLAK [Barcelona] PUBLISHER MONDAY PUBLISHING GMBH Kamekestrasse 20-22 50672 Cologne, Germany t: +49.(0)221.945267-11 f: +49.(0)221.945267-27 www.spectr-magazine.com CEOS STEFAN DONGUS, HOLGER VON KROSIGK PRINT F&W MEDIENCENTER GMBH

SPECTR is published three times per year. This magazine and all its contents may not be re-used, distributed or stored in electronic databases in any way without prior written permission from the publishers. All inquiries regarding the usage of copyrighted materials, as well as the reproduction of excerpts in other formats must be directed to the publishers. The opinions reflected in this magazine do not necessarily reflect those of the publishers. All rights reserved.

SPECTR // IMPRINT

Holzhauser Feld 2 83361 Kienberg, Germany fw-medien.de

SUE #40 +++ EVERYTHING ONLINE OR WHAT? +++ ISSUE #40 +++ EVERY

It’s no secret that we at SPECTR Magazine have launched the FAVR

more than 3,000 visitors who visit FAVR every day leave revealing

digital platform. For us, this completely different way of working is

footprints. Customers don’t want to order their glasses online, they

an important and very welcome enrichment, as the demands on the

want to buy them from an optician – this is where the local service

Internet are completely different.

advantages of the optician on site clearly score points.

SPECTR is all about photo shoots, layout, printing and editorial

On the other hand, forward-looking opticians also know that they

depth. In this context, I would like to point out the specials in the

can’t survive in the long term without their own online activities – if

current issue, e.g. on the topics of 3D printing or sustainable eyewear.

only because the large chains, which also lure customers with price

In our fashion spreads, our photographers from Berlin to New York

advantages, do this very professionally. A website is not necessarily

showcase the most beautiful eyewear from the categories of titanium,

meant to sell, but it is important to be found, to inspire, to create emo-

acetate, color blocking and much more.

tional loyalty and to prepare for a sales appointment by customers

At FAVR, on the other hand, we focus on search engine optimiza-

who are increasingly using digital information.

tion, user experience, digital leads, call-to-actions and a good custo-

Especially in the eyewear business, online and offline are not

mer journey. The different target group – FAVR addresses the consu-

necessarily competitors, but rather two sides of the same coin that,

mer – also requires a different way of thinking in almost all areas. We

ideally, should be mutually beneficial. The fact that opticians are in-

admit that building digital relevance and traffic has challenged us, but

creasingly talking to us about keyword strategies, landing pages, etc.

also trained us.

shows their growing awareness of the digital age.

Opticians are also constantly faced with the decision to reinvent themselves online in order to keep up with the times. But do they really have to?

After 40 issues of SPECTR magazine and almost 4 years of the FAVR platform, we are convinced that the digital and analog worlds are increasingly converging. The right strategy is important in order to

Some say: no, because the customer comes to the store to buy

achieve individual goals. We would therefore like to encourage all op-

their glasses anyway. The good news first: we can confirm that! The

ticians to actively and passionately shape their future on all channels.

ONLINE OR WHAT? +++ ISSUE #40 +++ EVERYTHING ONLINE OR WHAT?

SPECTR // EDITORIAL

YTHING ONLINE OR WHAT?#40 ISSUE #40 ISSUE

#40 ISSUE #40 ISSUE

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Japanese acetate side shields and laminated

MATSUDA »M3023-V2«

titanium temples… fresh take on a signature navigator shape.

»M1034 «

Hand sculpted Japanese acetate with a custom riveted hinge – this is attention to

THE ARTISTRY OF MATSUDA

detail.

Virtually try on MATSUDA FAVRSPECS.COM

The Captivating Craftsmanship Of The AW23 Eyewear Collection S P E C T R / / T E C H TA L K

In an era where fashion trends often seem fleeting, MATSUDA stands as a testament to enduring quality and timeless design. The MATSUDA AW23 eyewear collection conti-

nues to exemplify the brand’s commitment to excellence, innovation, and the seamless fusion of tradition and modernity. MATSUDA’s storied history traces its ori-

gins back to 1967 when Japanese designer Mitsuhiro Matsuda founded the brand. Originally an influential fashion brand, it ceased operations in the late 1990s and left a void in the fashion world. Nonetheless, the brand’s meticulously handcrafted optical frames and

A contemporary geometric lens shape crafted entirely of lightweight titanium.

»M3138«

sunglasses continued to be highly soughtafter by collectors, preserving its heritage. In 2011, American entrepreneur James Kisgen rejuvenated the iconic brand and breathed new life into Mitsuhiro Matsuda’s legacy. The AW23 collection represents another chapter in the brand’s legacy, building on existing concepts and introducing new styles that emphasize craftsmanship and thoughtful design. Among the highlights of the collection is the »M3023-V2«, a reimagined version of the iconic »M3023« model, which was featured in the blockbuster movie Iron Man 3. Exuding confidence and sophistication, the frame’s intricate metal inlay seamlessly 50

S P E C T R / / T E C H TA L K

blends with hand-crafted Japanese acetate, exemplifying the brand's commitment to timeless elegance. The »M3137«, another standout, showcases technical prowess. It features ribbed titanium temples adorned with exquisite “stained glass” lacquer, while the temples expertly combine Japanese acetate and precious metal, resulting in a round lens shape that harmoniously blends traditional aesthetics with contemporary design. For those seeking a classic yet distinctive look, the »M1031« and »M1032« models offer an appealing choice. These frames represent an evolution of MATSUDA’s core acetate concept, introducing new shapes and smaller

»M3137« – a star of technicality featuring ribbed titanium side shields with elegant “stained glass” lacquer.

MATSUDA »M3137«

»10189«

»M3086«

S P E C T R / / T E C H TA L K

The »M1029« from the side: hand-sculpted Japanese acetate combined with precious metal hardware and custom 7 barrel hinges.

MATSUDA »M1029«

»M1032«

»M2047«

proportions of acetate. The intricate metal inlay complements the hand-crafted Japanese acetate, resulting in frames that stand at the intersection of timelessness and iconic style. Regardless of the season, what sets

»M1031«

MATSUDA apart is not only the captivating

aesthetic, but the meticulous craftsmanship behind each piece. Handcrafted in the esteemed eyewear workshops of Sabae, Japan, it can take up to two years and as many as 250 intricate steps to bring a single frame to life. This level of dedication is truly extraordinary. In an era of mass production, MATSUDA remains a beacon of authenticity

and excellence. matsuda.com 52

S P E C T R / / T E C H TA L K

PIONEERING DESIGN. HANDMADE IN BERLIN.

MYKITA.COM

DITA

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

DITA LANCIER »DLX 115«

»DLX 410«

»DLX 119«

Advanced Lens Technology for Land, Sea & Air

LANCIER

Known for its distinctive and bold designs, especially in the striking shades of gold and black, DITA stands out as a premier eyewear brand. Last year, the brand introduced the DITA LANCIER collection, which captivated with its contemporary flair and effortless elegance. Drew Oppermann, Vice President of DITA, provides an in-depth look at the unique attributes that set the DITA LANCIER collection apart. SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

DITA LANCIER »DLS 419«

Hello Drew, there is no need to introduce DITA as an eyewear brand. However, could you please tell us something about the philosophy of the luxury brand? What makes DITA products stand out? In everything we do at DITA, we believe in individuality and disrupting the status quo. The DITA brand is a category of one and there is no compromise on our product. We only work with the best

»DLS 424«

Japanese factories that have master craftsmen who pass on their exceptional and unique skills from generation to generation. Who are you targeting with this quality? Who are your customers? The typical DITA customer enjoys pure luxury and has a unique and individual style. The DITA customer wants to set trends, not follow them; they are their own category of one. You founded DITA LANCIER last year. What was your motivation? We relaunched our DITA LANCIER collection last year with two new concepts – one on the sunglass side and one on the optical side. The motivation for the collection was to launch a brand with advanced sunglass lens technology that also appeals to the consumer who wants a stylish, super-comfortable, high-quality product. We then added an exceptional optical collection that is incredibly lightweight, minimalist and fashion-forward using custom manufacturing methods and the finest materials from Japan.

»DLS 400«

How does the DITA LANCIER collection differ from the classic DITA collection in terms of product design and use? The DITA collection is strong with many bold shapes and colors, including its signature black and gold combinations on many styles. The DITA LANCIER collection is trendy and lightweight with exceptional comfort, wearable shapes and earth tones. Are there price differences?

SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

DITA LANCIER’s expertise is also evident in its attention to detail.

Yes, DITA covers the higher end of the luxury eyewear market

day activities by dramatically reducing blinding glare while fully

while DITA LANCIER covers the accessible luxury price point of

preserving natural depth perception. For road and trail environ-

the market. DITA retail prices range from 450 to 1,200 euros, while

ments, the brown polarized Land lens contrasts with reds, greens

DITA LANCIER ranges from 220 to 460 euros.

and yellows. Full polarization and high contrast provide increased

What are some of the typical designs we see in DITA LANCIER? You will find a wide range of designs in the DITA LANCIER collec-

clarity, revealing vivid colors and optimal visibility on land. What sets the Sea category apart?

tion. On the optical side, we have a combination of classic,

Our Sea lenses offer the ultimate in glare reduction for all water

fashion-forward and retro shapes in both high-quality titanium and

activities: beach, boating, sailing, fishing. The DITA LANCIER Sea

Japanese acetate. Our sunglass collection includes a variety of

lens features fully embedded polarization technology that elimi-

navigator, aviator, modified round and square shapes using mixed

nates most reflected surface glare without sacrificing contrast in

materials and custom features.

and around open water. This gray lens contrasts reds and skin

DITA LANCIER is also positioned in a sports environment. Which

tones against the blue background of the ocean and sky. It has

sports are you most associated with?

maximum polarization.

The DITA LANCIER sunglass collection is not a sports sunglass

And what about the Air category?

collection per se. DITA LANCIER is an active lifestyle sunglass brand.

Our Air lenses are non-polarized for maximum contrast without

Our proprietary sun lenses work incredibly well for a variety of

compromising depth perception in all light conditions. Not only

activities.

are these lenses great for hiking, skiing and mountaineering, they

A high-quality visual experience is especially important. What sets

are also great for pilots who cannot wear polarized lenses. The

your lenses apart?

improved contrast and depth perception make them the best

The custom color tint formulas of our sunglass lenses, combined

choice for any ball hitting sport such as golf, handball or tennis.

with an extremely high quality AR coating and polarization (where

For high-altitude, outdoor environments and activities that require

applicable), make our lenses unique. The clarity and color contrast

more clarity while providing an organic, true-to-life visual experi-

of all 3 lenses is second to none. You just have to try on a pair of DITA LANCIER sunglasses to experience the difference.

Land, Sea and Air Air. What are the special You differentiate between Land features of the lenses for land activities?

ence. What material do you prefer? Is there a material difference between sunglasses and optical glasses? Actually, we don’t differentiate too much between optical and sun

Our Land lens is the best combination of full polarization and high

in terms of materials. All DITA LANCIER metals in both the optical

contrast. The DITA LANCIER Land lens meets the realities of every-

and sun collections are high quality titanium. We use Japanese SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

DITA LANCIER »DLX 115«

»DLX 410«

Modern lightness in titanium and acetate.

acetates in both, which are cured longer than standard acetates. This allows the acetate to be thinner without breaking and to withstand more extreme temperatures without deforming. The only

Yes, many. A few examples are our custom nosepads, which are

difference is that only our Sun collection uses a super lightweight

softer and allow for a better fit on a variety of facial structures. We

nylon material for the more athletic sunglasses. This material

also use a special Japanese electroplating system on all of our

holds its shape during activity and returns to shape when flexed. It

titanium products that is completely nickel-free and highly resis-

features sculpted flex-fit temples that are specially curved to hug

tant to abrasion, corrosion and fading. We must mention another

the head and take pressure off the ears.

initiative here. We have a fully integrated prescription program

You take special pride in your titanium. What makes it so special?

that allows consumers to get our proprietary sunglass technology

We don’t use just any titanium. We use only the highest-grade

in a prescription. We have a very easy to use portal and can deli-

titanium from the highest-quality eyewear factories in Japan. We

ver a high quality, complete package frame and prescription lens

do this because we do not want to compromise on the product,

product in 7-10 business days.

even though the cost is higher. We want to give DITA LANCIER

You offer a very special service to your customers with the “Two

customers the best possible experience in terms of quality and

Week Trial Program”. What exactly is behind it?

comfort. Our ultra-light titanium is exceptionally comfortable while

There are several factors behind this program. First, we like to

maintaining its durability, flexibility and strength. It is completely

disrupt and innovate in the industry. We are allowing consumers

nickel-free and hypoallergenic.

to try our sunglasses for two weeks with no risk. We want as many

When it comes to hinges, DITA LANCIER is breaking new ground with a screwless hinge system. Why?

consumers as possible to experience our lens technology and feel the design and comfort of our product.

Our custom Détente pin hinge system allows the temple to be

When you offer a service like this, you must be pretty confident in

thinner and more streamlined. This serves as a maintenance-free

the quality of your product?

hinge that is pinned, providing a longer product life than other

Yes, we are completely confident that the value we provide with

notched or screw systems. It’s designed with a custom anti-walk

the DITA LANCIER brand and products is second to none. In fact,

hinge pin with an open/close assisted detent feature that holds

the early results of our test drive program confirm this. Almost no

the temples open or closed for added support during activities.

consumer takes the sunglasses back. Once they try the product,

And then there is a special feature at the temple ends... On many DITA LANCIER styles, we have signature double-injected rubber temple tips that provide greater comfort and adjustability 58

for the user. Any other technical features?

SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

they never want to take it off. Thank you for your time. ditalancier.com

@ jf reyo f f ic ia l

M ØRGREEN »Revenge« dress GESTUZ coat MANGO necklace HUGO BOSS earrings H&M

ØRGREEN »Bohemian Beauty« shirt OBJECT jacket QS BY S.OLIVER earrings PILGRIM 60

SPECTR

M A K E photography

SOPHIE DAUM [Hamburg]

styling DILARA TUNCER hair & make-up JOHANNA MADLE models LUCA at KULT MODELS & ILONA at LOUISA MODELS

STATE COLOR BLOCKING

SPECTR

MOREL »Isabella 2« sweater MISTER LADY

SPECTR

COLOR BLOCKING

A technique rooted in the principles of contrast and creativity, color blocking has long been a force to be reckoned with. Originating in the 1960s with Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic Mondrian-inspired dress and later popularized by visionary designer Stephen Burrows, color blocking has become a symbol of freedom and self-expression. Today, it continues to captivate fashion enthusiasts, providing a canvas for designers to challenge convention. As we delve into the world of eyewear fashion for 2024, we invite you to explore the exciting fusion of colors and gradients that redefine elegance and individuality. Let’s dive right in and showcase some of the most interesting color-blocking frames here in this shoot.

ETNIA BARCELONA »Necora« dress TOPSHOP jacket BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN

SPECTR

J.F. REY »Alaska 4325« shirt PIECES jacket BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN necklace PILGRIM earrings THOMAS SABO

SPECTR

J.F. REY »JF1548 2830« shirt GESTUZ jacket KING LOUIE jewelry PILGRIM

SPECTR

BLACKFIN »Samoa« -

shirt WOLFORD jacket KARO KAUER earrings ZARA

SPECTR

BLACKFIN »Palau« sweater SELECTED FEMME skirt VILA earrings THOMAS SABO

SPECTR

LITHE »16048« shirt GESTUZ vest BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN scarf TAYFUN KABA

SPECTR

ANNE ET VALENTIN »Mecaboom« jacket ESPRIT earrings PILGRIM

SPECTR

CUTLER AND GROSS »GR06« -

dress DESIGUAL scarf PARATI earrings PILGRIM

SPECTR

Eric

Hypnotic Wheels • Photo : Nicolas Anglade

Driver & collector of a 1972 BMW 3.0 CSL

Brand: Engine: Collection: Model:

BRETT NEO ACETATE BOLD BARRY SUN

Combining thickness and thinness in a single line - that’s the essence of the new BOLD collection by BRETT Eyewear. With a thick, all-acetate front combined with slim stainless steel temples, BOLD frames are calibrated for those who like to play with the rules,

@brett_eyewear

R &

photography

WILLIAM FERCHICHI [New York]

hair DAMIAN MONZILLO at CELESTINE make-up MAGDALENA MAJOR at SEE MANAGEMENT models DASHA MALENTINA at W360 MANAGEMENT & BRUNON KAMINSKI at WILHELMINA

Virtually try on EINSTOFFEN FAVRSPECS.COM

EINSTOFFEN »Couturier«

R A W & Explore the Depths of EINSTOFFEN’s Evolving Vision

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

EINSTOFFEN »Bonsai-Meister«

Our cover brand EINSTOFFEN presents itself with a new campaign under the title “Raw & Noble”. The fresh narrative is in line with the established premium ethos of the Swiss eyewear brand. In this interview, Ramon Studer talks about the opening of the St. Gallen brand store, the cornerstones and inspirations of the new campaign and its impact an the design ethos and product details. An EINSTOFFEN deep dive with Ramon Studer.

»Bergführer«

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

»Sushi-Meister«

Hello Ramon, you have just opened your new store in St. Gallen, which is also a reflection of your brand. Can you tell us more about it? Of course we can. We opened our brand

EINSTOFFEN »Kunstexpertin«

store in St. Gallen in December. We found a wonderful location in a listed commercial building in the old town of St. Gallen, close to the Abbey Library and many small restaurants and cafés. You can literally feel the history of the city in the rooms. As all the furniture is also listed, we had to concentrate on restoration during the conversion in order to retain as much of the old charm as possible. Nevertheless, the store will still look fresh because we have used modern elements in the right places. SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

EINSTOFFEN »Giftmelker«

This fits in well with your new campaign, which is being launched with the claim Raw & Noble. Noble What do “Raw” and “Noble” embody for you? The “raw” refers to the Alps and the raw nature. The Alps are a wild and untamed landscape, characterized by high mountains, deep valleys and raging rivers. In the design language, the raw is expressed through materials such as acetate, wood and titanium, through irregular shapes and surfaces, but also through clear lines and structures. “Noble” refers to the elegance and beauty of art and culture as an expression of human creativity. It is the attempt to shape the world in its ideal form. In terms of design language, this means that color effects such as gold or silver, which are traditionally associated with luxury, meet symmetrical shapes and 76

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

EINSTOFFEN »Stylistin«

surfaces and convey order and harmony or calm and serenity. Soft lines and cur-

In contrast to some eyewear fashion

ves also convey elegance and grace.

brands, EINSTOFFEN only concentrates on

How is this reflected in the products? Selected models are left in their raw state

»Wrestler«

metal inserts have also been updated.

truly wearable designs. What is the philosophy behind this?

and are only finished with the bare essen-

Yes, this collection also includes very

tials. Authentic glasses for an authentic

wearable models. But our glasses are still

character, so to speak. Our metal inlays

very individual and full of small, high-

are alternately shiny and matt, which

quality details. This is exactly what our

creates an unmistakable effect.

customers and partners are looking for

Can you elaborate on this and give exam-

and love. Collection design and eyewear

ples that are particularly representative of

design are two different things for us.

your brand’s DNA?

A collection must always be coherent

As you would expect from EINSTOFFEN,

and cover many different characters

there are small, subtle details hidden in

and needs. A collection lives from a few

the collection that are often only noticed

eye-catching and many wearable models.

at second glance. Some frames, for

That's sometimes a balancing act.

example, have a milling on the front of the

Ramon, thank you very much for this

middle section. The finely milled indenta-

interview.

tions give the frame a unique touch. Our

einstoffen.com SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

EINSTOFFEN »Freidenker«

The Story Behind The Einstoffen Cover... The hype surrounding artificial intelligence has long since reached the visual level, and the possibilities seem limitless. Who hasn’t

EINSTOFFEN »Drahtzieher«

tried to create images with “prompts”? However, the results are often a bit of a surprise

ses proves to be a perfect synergy. Every-

package. Our current cover shoot, although

thing here is well thought out and staged –

created digitally, is something completely

be it the gesture, the clothing, every nuance

different. It features virtual models who have

of the pose or the background. Compared to

come together to represent EINSTOFFEN

artificial intelligence, the use of virtual models

models.

offers the advantage that both the planning

Ava and Edgar were brought to life from artwork VERCE

The fusion of virtual models and real glas-

and the product, in this case the EINSTOFFEN

pixels by our friends at the Verce agency.

glasses, can be displayed with the highest

While Ava has previous experience in

precision. The fine milling of the frames in

SPECTR, Edgar is brand new. Both may not

particular can be depicted in great detail on

exist in real life, but they are nevertheless

this basis and thus come into their own.

precisely designed virtual personalities with

It may seem ironic that the EINSTOFFEN’s

their own characteristics. Flexible in their por-

motto “Raw and Noble” meets virtual models

trayal, unlike today’s AI characters, they can

here, but at the same time Ava and Edgar

effortlessly wear different outfits and strike

embody this spirit perfectly. We believe that

any pose they wish.

the future will not be characterized exclusively by artificial intelligence, virtual models or classic photography, but by a clever mix of all aspects. Above any dogmatic approach, we believe in presenting eyewear and brands in the best possible way.

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

Model FLX_04 | ic-berlin.com

ELEVATE photography

BRIX & MAAS [Berlin]

agency SONJA HEINTSCHEL styling ANA-MARIJA KNEZEVIC at BIGOUDI hair & make-up SAM HILL assisted by LISA NEUGEBAUER at INCLOVER ACADEMY models LENA & TILL

Y O U R CURATED 2024 SUNGLASSES FRAMES

SPECTR

SILHOUETTE »Antibes 4083 75 1030« -

turtleneck UNIQLO blazer THINKING MU

SILHOUETTE »Cap d’Ail 3194 75 3530« -

blazer SELECTED

SPECTR

CUTLER AND GROSS »GR06« -

jumper JOHANNA THERESIA KEUPER

SPECTR

CURATED 2024 SUNGLASSES FRAMES

As we bid farewell to the chill of winter, the lure of spring and summer beckons with the promise of sunny days and endless adventure. Just as nature is undergoing a vibrant transformation, so too is the world of high-end fashion and eyewear. In anticipation of the coming months, we’ve scoured the eyewear industry to bring you a selection of new sunglass styles. As the world awakens to warmer days, these shades will become increasingly relevant. From classic elegance to bold contemporary designs, our curated mix of styles in this shoot has been carefully selected and is sure to keep consumers shaded in sophistication as they step into the bright days of 2024. Welcome to a season of style and endless possibilities.

IC! BERLIN »Nika« turtleneck S.OLIVER

SPECTR

CAZAL »MOD. 300« -

blouse HOPE

SPECTR

LOOK SUN »4632.C1S« dress UGG gloves JOHANNA THERESIA KEUPER earrings GLAMBOU

SPECTR

RAEN »Zouk« blazer MADE BY STYLIST skirt HOPE

SPECTR

PORSCHE DESIGN »P’8968« balaclava & turtleneck GANT

SPECTR

NIRVAN JAVAN SHADES OF TORONTO »10:02:01 (EST)« trousers & blazer LOLLYS LAUNDRY turtleneck WOLFORD

SPECTR

CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX »CMS159 LA MODERNA« outfit JOHANNA THERESIA KEUPER shoes MANGO

SPECTR

ECO »Chia« -

dress G-STAR coat ECOALF gloves MAX MARA ring GLAMBOU

SPECTR

PAPER

»Agar«

ART »Posidonia«

»Necora«

ETNIA BARCELONA 92

SPECTR

»Griffin«

GÖTTI

»Leach«

SPECTR has always been about premium optics. In this shoot, we present a world where paper art meets pristine eyewear frames. Each frame is cradled in the soft embrace of paper, telling a story of craftsmanship and elegance. An ode to beauty in detail, visually crafted by our still life photographers Nocerra & Ferri in London.

photography & set design

NOCERA & FERRI [London]

retouch LAURA CAMMARATA

»Gustav« SPECTR

»KT-546AU«

»KT-551AU«

KIO YAMATO

»KT-234AU«

SPECTR

»KT 6062«

»KT 6063«

KOBERG

»KT 6052«

SPECTR

»A12 509«

»A12 507«

»A12 508«

LUNOR

SPECTR

»500041«

»500044«

MARC O’POLO

»500043«

SPECTR

»Mio P1038«

»Mio P1036«

MARKUS T

»TITAN Terra T2 302«

SPECTR

»8010«

MODO

»8013«

»8008«

SPECTR

»Wizard«

»Bohemian Beauty«

ØRGREEN »Eyes On Me«

100

SPECTR

»2222 300«

OWP

»2225 300«

»1475 100«

SPECTR

101

»holzbiene-30007«

»holzbiene-30009«

ZOO

»ozelot-40003«

102

SPECTR

NEW EASE PRO. THE BEAUTY OF FASCINATING DETAILS.

markus-t.com

8 questions to evaluate your own website

Website checklist: How good is your website? Even in 2024, nothing beats a physical visit to the optician, but more and more customers want to get information online first and expect their optician to have a modern website.

1. Are you found well on Google?

→ If you’re not at the top of Google, you don’t exist online.

5. Can you engage your visitors with appealing photos and videos?

→ Ultimately, customers always make decisions emotionally based 2. Are you being found for the right keywords?

on their gut feeling. Imagery plays a major role here.

→ With an individual SEO strategy, exactly the right customers will become customers become aware of your offer.

6. Do you offer your visitors product inspiration?

→ Customers want to find out about products online before they 3. Does your website work on all devices?

buy. Offer them product inspiration on your website before they

→ Customers are increasingly using smartphones and tablets.

search elsewhere.

Your website should adapt to your customers with a responsive design.

7. Can your potential customers directly contact you and make an appointment with you?

4. Is your website clear and easy to use?

→ If the user experience is poor, visitors will not be able to not find

→ With an appointment tool, the customer can make a first decision for you!

their way around your website and will end their visit quickly. 8. Do you have full insight into your traffic?

→ Only a clear reporting system based on Google Analytics helps you to understand your users and customers.

We design your modern website that fulfills all the points from the website checklist.

Interes ted? Send an email t o webdes ign@fav rspecs.c om!

At FAVR, we specialize in the optical industry. Thanks to our experience and our own platform, we know what an optician's website must be able to do in 2024 in order to perform.

We offer everything from a single source. From keyword strategy, design and copywriting to the integration of product and brand worlds.

More traffic and customer loyalty for your new website. Guaranteed!

K L E N Z E B AU M . C O M

ACELIKE: THE NEW 3D PRINTED ACETATE LOOK

3D PRINTED CUSTOM EYEWEAR MADE IN GERMANY

L photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

VISION WITH VALUES Sustainable Eyewear im Fokus In a world where sustainability has evolved

just a question of the materials used. We

like to turn our attention to our favorite cate-

need to take a closer look and consider the

gory: premium eyewear. Because it is the

entire individual journey of a pair of glasses

perfect balance between fashion, function

from start to finish. Every pair of glasses has

and sustainability.

its own story, from the initial design to the

Sustainable frames are not only an

final processing step. Although the eyewear

expression of a certain aesthetic, but also

industry does not inherently have the largest

a testimony to our collective responsibility.

environmental footprint due to the longevity

Good style and sustainability are not oppo-

of its products and the relatively low use of

sites, they complement each other. After all,

materials, some brands stand out for their

eyewear is always a symbol of personal ex-

special efforts – be it regional production,

pression and must therefore go hand in hand

recycled or natural materials or waste avoi-

with our principles. Including those of ethical

dance. In our Sustainable Special, we present

consumption.

products from the brands SILHOUETTE, ROLF,

S P E C T R / / S U S TA I N A B L E S P E C I A L

Sustainability in consumer goods is not

from a buzzword to an imperative, we always

HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR and ECO.

106

HOUETTE SILHOUETTE

SILHOUETTE TE SILHOUETTE SILTTE S SILHOUETTE is fully committed to sustain-

able and responsible business practices. The innovative strength of the Linz-based family

SILHOUETTE Titan Minimal Art »Nash 8744«

business focuses on reducing the ecological footprint of the entire company. The declared

ETTE SILHOUETE SILHOU goal: nothing less than the reduction of CO2 emissions to zero!

Actual CO2 emissions have already been

reduced by 50% since 2015. The Upper

Austrian company is offsetting the remaining emissions with certificates in the Global

South and will therefore be considered CO2-

neutral with compensation from 2022. Other projects that demonstrate SILHOUETTE’s

commitment: The generation of its own solar

SILHOUETTE ETTE SILHO power from photovoltaic systems and solar flowers and the conversion of the vehicle fleet to hybrid and electric cars.

The beauty of the models, such as these

from the Titan Minimal Art collection, is in no

way inferior to SILHOUETTE’s commitment to the environment. The TMA models impress with their minimalist design and maximum wearing comfort.

silhouette.com

SILHOUE SILHOUETTE SI Titan Minimal Art »Adara 8192 «

Titan Minimal Art »5599 NP«

TE ILHOUETTE SILHOUET Titan Minimal Art »5599 NQ«

S P E C T R / / S U S TA I N A B L E S P E C I A L

107

O ECO ECO ECO ECO EC

CO ECO ECO ECO ECO E

ECO

ECO ECO ECOECO ECO »Violan«

CO ECO ECO ECO ECO E »Shard«

ECO ECO ECO ECO ECO

O ECO ECO ECO ECO EC ECO is undoubtedly one of the pioneers in

ECO consistently relies on sustainable mate-

the eyewear industry when it comes to sus-

rials in its production, so the collections

tainability. The brand has been pursuing a

include recycled metal, bio-acetate, bio-based

360° approach since 2009 – this means that

frames made from castor oil and ocean plastic.

every detail is looked at in all areas of the

However, ECO is not only demanding when it

company and scrutinized to see how its own

comes to frames, but also consistently

ecological footprint can be further reduced.

uses recycled materials for packaging,

For ECO, environmental protection is not a

cleaning cloths and demo lenses. And if

ECO ECO ECO ECO ECO 108

trend, but a responsibility that is firmly

non-recycled material is used, such as in the

anchored in the brand’s DNA – the brand

case of the optician’s gift box, it is made from

name speaks for itself.

FSC-certified bamboo.

S P E C T R / / S U S TA I N A B L E S P E C I A L

CO ECO ECO ECO ECO E

ECO ECO ECO EO ECO E

EECO ECO ECO ECO ECO ECO »Calluna«

ECO O ECO ECO ECO CO »Obsidian«

ECO ECO ECO ECO ECO But that alone is not enough for ECO. Many

CO ECO ECO ECO O ECO years ago, the brand launched the “One

Frame – One Tree” campaign. For every pair

of glasses sold, ECO plants a tree – 3.3 million to date. The impact is enormous. ECO is not

only CO2-neutral, but even CO2-negative.

The glasses do not come with an eco-

The collection is even more fashionable

touch, quite the opposite. The designs range

when it comes to sunglasses: the »Calluna«

from discreetly classic to strikingly fashionable,

model, for example, has a sculptural, rectan-

especially for female customers. The collec-

gular shape with wide, slanted temples.

tion includes frames such as the »Violan«,

Particularly practical: clip-ons are available

which, with its feminine expression and slight

for many optical glasses, naturally also made

oversize, is perfect for all women who want

from bio-based material.

ECO ECO ECO ECO ECO to add a touch of elegance to their look.

eco-eyewear.com

S P E C T R / / S U S TA I N A B L E S P E C I A L

109

F ROLF ROLF ROLF ROL

ROLF ROLF LF LFROLF ROLF R

OLF ROLF ROLF ROLF R »Nero«

LF ROLF ROLF ROLF RO »Juna« »xxxxxx«

OLF ROLF ROLF ROLF R

ROLF ROLF ROLF ROLF »Taja«

The regional production of eyewear in its own factory ROLF is undoubtedly one of the pioneers and trailblazers

is important to ROLF. This is because nature and the

when it comes to sustainable eyewear production. The

seclusion on site give the ROLF team the freedom to

Tyrolean family business has been impressing customers

develop new, innovative products. The high quality of

for many years with its innovation and design, always with

ROLF products already makes an important contribution,

a high standard for its own sustainable actions, but – and

because long-lasting products are sustainable by nature.

this is important to the Austrian brand – always “beyond

This is why ROLF relies on low-wear technologies such as

the eco-hype.”

the patented Flexlock joint.

LF ROLF ROLF ROLF RO 110

S P E C T R / / S U S TA I N A B L E S P E C I A L

LF ROLF ROLF ROLF RO

ROLF ROLF ROLF ROLF ROLF undoubtedly achieves the greatest effect through

plant-based, light and comfortable to wear on the nose.

the materials used. The requirement is quite simple:

At the same time, the material is robust and durable. The

the materials must be natural! ROLF has become known

first launches of castor bean eyewear were so successful

for its high-quality wooden collections, which exude an

that there are now several Substance collections, inclu-

inimitable charm and warmth, such as the »Mayflower«

ding very fashionable lines such as the Wire collection

model shown here. Made from carefully selected, finely

with its progressive design. With a new, colorful look, two

ROLF ROLF ROLF ROLF R layered woods, each pair of wooden glasses is unique.

basic colors, four thread colors and countless variations,

For some time now, there have also been frames made

the collection offers its own design language, as the

of stone, a material that also requires a high degree of

models »Juna«, »Nero«, »Taja« and »Luna Sun« impres-

craftsmanship.

sively demonstrate. There is also a special collection

The material theme is rounded off by the Substance

collections, in which the fast-growing castor bean is used as the material base. The Substance models are purely

for children, because you can’t start early enough with environmental protection.

rolf-spectacles.com

OLLF OLF ROLF ROLF RO ROLF »Luna Sun«

ROLF ROLF ROLF ROLF R »Mayflower«

»xxxxxx«

ROLF ROLF ROLF ROLF

OLF ROLF ROLF ROLF RO »Giannini«

S P E C T R / / S U S TA I N A B L E S P E C I A L

111

HOFFMANN NATURAL E

TURAL EYEWEAR HOFFM »339«

HOFFMANN NATURAL E HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR

TURAL EYEWEAR HOFFM

HOFFMANN NATURAL E »2335«

TURAL EYEWEAR HOFFM When it comes to particularly sustainable

sustainability is always at the forefront of its

eyewear brands, a representative from

thoughts and actions. As an antithesis to fast

Germany is a must, and HOFFMANN NATU-

fashion, the unique HOFFMANN style

RAL EYEWEAR is an easy choice. The brand

demands that the eyewear exudes an ever-

has been producing natural horn frames since

lasting charm. Clear lines, an impressive

1978 – and the company has been conscious-

color palette and exceptional natural mate-

ly using nature’s valuable resources for just

rials ensure that the fascination of these

as long. As the factory from the Vulkaneifel

glasses lasts for more than just one season.

HOFFMANN NATURAL E 112

region relies on natural, renewable mate-

The durable natural horn for HOFFMANN

rials and manufactures its frames by hand,

usually comes from the Asian water buffalo,

S P E C T R / / S U S TA I N A B L E S P E C I A L

EYEWEAR HOFFMANN N

MANN NATURAL EYEW HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »341«

EYEWEAR HOFFMANN N

MANN NATURAL EYEW

EYEWEAR HOFFMANN N »336«

MANN NATURAL EYEW which is native to farming communities in

pays attention to sustainability aspects in the

many parts of the world. The culture of these

studio. For example, the factory is heated

countries honors these valuable animals,

and cooled using an environmentally friendly

none of which have to lose their lives be-

geothermal system.

cause of their horn. A domestic buffalo can

However, being a leader in sustainability

live for 30 years or more. After that, the high-

is not enough for the brand from the Eifel re-

quality natural horn takes on a new mea-

gion. With the models presented here, HOFF-

ning – for example as an exclusive material

MANN NATURAL EYEWEAR also demonstrates

for handmade eyewear. Because the love of

its versatile expertise in terms of material

nature and the environment is not only lived

quality, workmanship and design.

EYEWEAR HOFFMANN N in the glasses, the HOFFMANN team also

hoffmann-eyewear.com

S P E C T R / / S U S TA I N A B L E S P E C I A L

113

FACES

E 114

SPECTR

photography

FLORIAN RENNER [London]

styling MARK ANTHONY BRADLEY assisted by FAYE CARLON hair SVEN BAYERBACH at CAROL HAYES MANAGEMENT using DRYBAR make-up AGA DOBOSZ at CAROL HAYES MANAGEMENT using KEYS post production SOLIS RETOUCH STUDIO models NY DENG at STORM, SHELDON at SELECT, ALIONA at NEVS, CAMRON at NEVS, ELENA at NEVS, AXEL at LINDENSTAUB, AHMAD at PRM & XIA N at PRM photo assistant DANIEL ZAMORA

TITANIUM – THE MOST WANTED ELEMENT

MARKUS T »DOT MONO L1067« -

jacket LEWIS LEATHERS

MARKUS T »DOT MONO L1068« -

jacket NANAMICA turtleneck GABRIELA HEARST

SPECTR

115

LITHE »16045« -

vest YMC

TITANIUM – THE MOST WANTED ELEMENT

This material is where passion meets precision. In the world of premium eyewear, brands craft the finest titanium frames with meticulous attention to detail. The versatile material is ten times more valuable than steel and more resilient. It brings strength, flexibility and comfort to delicate designs that sit lightly on the face and are completely skin-neutral. Without further delay, here are some of the most interesting titanium frames we've captured for you to kick off 2024.

116

SPECTR

ZOO »zebu-90005« coat AGNES B

SPECTR

117

KOBERG »KT 6064« -

shirt & tie AGNES B cardigan COS beret LOCK & CO HATTERS

118

SPECTR

KOBERG »KT 6058« -

vest ANGELS COSTUMES blazer HUGO BOSS shirt AGNES B beret JOHN BULL CLOTHING

SPECTR

119

METROPOLITAN »8116« cardigan YMC shirt MAHARISHI

120

SPECTR

MODO »4268« -

jacket COS shirt & tie AGNES B

SPECTR

121

GÖTTI »Leach« coat ALL SAINTS beret ANGELS COSTUMES

122

SPECTR

GÖTTI »Griffin« outfit AGNES B

SPECTR

123

BLACKFIN »Mavericks« cardigan COS shirt & tie HUGO BOSS beret LOCK & CO HATTERS

BLACKFIN »Carmel« -

coat HUGO BOSS

124

SPECTR

Virtually try on LUNOR FAVRSPECS.COM

THE BEAUTY OF SIMPLICITY A Tribute To The LUNOR M16

photography

ULRICH HARTMANN [Berlin]

model JULIA SMIRNOV at INDEED hair & make up SINAN SALIHOVIC assistant MATEUSZ FROLENKO 126

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

LUNOR »M16 02 SWS«

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

127

LUNOR »M16 02 GOS«

This is probably a first for SPECTR Magazine – a collection shoot with just two models of

LUNOR »M16 01 SWS«

glasses. The LUNOR »M16« makes it possible. The collection, consisting of model 01 and model 02, was developed by LUNOR for a style-conscious generation that appreciates modern elegance and filigree materials. So much Black Forest self-confidence deserves a special staging with us. The fact that the shoot by photographer Ulrich Hartmann and his team is not boring is not only due to their creative performance, but also to the fact that each »M16« is a small stainless-steel masterpiece that can be admired from different perspectives.

128

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

LUNOR »M16 01 BLS« SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

129

LUNOR »M16 01 BBS«

The two models are carefully crafted by hand and coated with a matt lacquer; the glasses are available in gold, blackberry, blue and black – always with a satin finish. A special pre-treatment ensures the color fastness of the elaborate surface finish, so that you can look forward to an extremely durable frame. The delicate stainless-steel frame makes the »M16« a real lightweight that promises a high level of comfort. The simple but striking look of the »M16« impresses with its clear lines and minimalist design, while the large shapes embody modern elegance. Movable nose pads made of pure titanium guarantee a high level of comfort. In the in-house LUMAG factory, each »M16« is made by hand by experienced spectacle makers with great attention to detail. lunor.com

130

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

SHADED

S O P H TOP STYLES – FEMALE ONLY

I S T I C photography

RACHEL JIAM [Berlin]

styling AATHIRAI VALENTINE hair & make-up ELEONORE ISING models SUBIN AHN & CYNTIA WILLIAMS at IZAIO assistant NIKOLAOS KARPOUTZIS

132

SPECTR

EINSTOFFEN »Duftexperte« -

dress GANT boots MANGO earrings MANGO

EINSTOFFEN »Golfballtaucher« -

outfit BA&SH earrings MANGO

SPECTR

133

SALT. »Sierra« -

blazer BA&SH earrings MANGO

134

SPECTR

TOP STYLES – FEMALE ONLY

In the realm of fashion, eyewear is a silent yet powerful testament to individuality and selfassurance, especially when worn by women who navigate the world with unwavering confidence. This shoot is a curated ode to feminine strength and style. We combine classic silhouettes, bold designs and sleek frames

BARTON PERREIRA »Surya« -

leather shirt ESPRIT dress MANGO earrings MANGO

that challenge the conventional, creating a symphony of styles that cater to the eclectic tastes of women who aren’t afraid to express themselves. These sunglasses are not just accessories; they are statements of self, worn with pride and grace.

SPECTR

135

ANNE ET VALENTIN »Boca« -

turtleneck dress ZARA

136

SPECTR

CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX »CM495 LA HARPISTE« outfit BA&SH earrings MANGO

SPECTR

137

MOREL »Lisa 1« -

outfit ESPRIT belt BA&SH boots MANGO

138

SPECTR

MOREL »Lisa 3« longsleeve MANGO shorts GANT boots MANGO

SPECTR

139

VERONIKA WILDGRUBER »Lane« -

vest BA&SH earrings MANGO

140

SPECTR

CAZAL »MOD. 9505« -

longsleeve MANGO jewellery bralette MANGO shorts GANT boots & ring MANGO

SPECTR

141

LOOK ALUMIX »70682.M2« -

dress GANT boots MANGO earrings MANGO

142

SPECTR

Discover our collection! mpgmarketing.info/davidoff-shop MADE IN ITALY Modell: DAP121-01

photos & illustrations ROLF

Virtually try on ROLF

E T N

Rebranding – Beyond the Eco-Hype

The Tyrolean premium brand ROLF has reinvented its brand identity – a rather bold step for a brand that is known above all for its consistency and sustainability. Marketing manager and co-founder Christian Wolf lets us in on the

#planetrolf project.

Hello Christian, how have the last few years been for ROLF?

this area and were always able to deliver.

The last few years have been challenging for any brand, but in

But you also used the time for your major rebranding project.

difficult times you have to rethink and that’s what we did. Thanks

What prompted you to do this?

to our regional production, we have always had the great advan-

ROLF was launched in 2009. After more than a decade, we felt

tage of being able to deliver, which has made these years very

the need to renew ourselves in order to preserve our youth,

successful.

generate new enthusiasm and sharpen our focus. The key was a

What have you done specifically? We expanded our portfolio with the Substance collection and were able to reach a large number of customers. The product impresses with its quality, design, innovation, sustainability and

144

OLF

L P A

FAVRSPECS.COM

deep examination of our brand. This “reboot” led to the definition of our core values and now gives us more room for creativity again. What specific elements are new or different?

price. As we have been producing in our factory for 15 years and

We have successfully introduced a new logo, a fresh corporate

are largely independent of suppliers, we didn’t have to change in

identity and a simplified website. We are proud and happy with

S P E C T R / / M A R K E T I N G TA L K

A deep connection with nature and local production – important not only for marketing manager Christian Wolf, but for the entire ROLF team.

“ROLF stands for quality and innovation beyond the eco-hype. We produce high-quality eyewear from plant-based materials: wood, stone and bean.”

the result. We enjoy working with our new brand identity every

process like this. We chose the Rabensteiner agency from Inns-

day.

bruck. Their experience, creativity and patience were exactly what

Were you dissatisfied with your old brand identity?

we were looking for. Together with Ulrike Hirtzberger, we devel-

Dissatisfied is not the right word. Our previous brand identity

oped a comprehensive brand strategy that included positioning,

reflected our origins and had its own charm. However, we felt that

competitive analysis and other key elements. We then worked on

it had become a bit outdated and cluttered over time. It was time

the details on this basis. The end result was more than just a new

to make room for something new. For us, this is a natural develop-

logo – it was the birth of #planetrolf – “ROLF. Naturally handmade”,

ment in the life cycle of a brand.

a brand identity that fully reflects our values and vision.

What did the process look like in concrete terms?

Did your own corporate culture play a role in this?

The entire rebranding process was a far-reaching and well-con-

Yes, of course. Our roots in our Tyrolean homeland and our deep

sidered decision that we implemented with the help of external

connection with nature characterize every aspect of our work.

professionals. You need fresh perspectives and expertise for a

This is reflected not only in the quality and sustainability of our S P E C T R / / M A R K E T I N G TA L K

145

The ROLF Values. #1

Our planet.

An essential part of our philosophy is to leave a better planet than the one we found. #2

Rethinking.

Rethinking the established is in our DNA. Sometimes we even rethink our entire industry. #3

Plant-based.

We don’t care about the eco-hype. We produce high-quality eyewear from renewable raw materials. #4

Sustainable.

Sustainable means high quality. High quality means durable. Durable means sustainable. The circle is complete.

The new campaign is also a commitment to improving the future through innovative and sustainable products.

eyewear, but also in the design. Our design approach combines

Our new branding allows us to better communicate our clear

on for aesthetics and functionality. The rebranding process was an

values and vision. We have nature and its principles in our DNA.

opportunity to bring these elements even more to the fore.

With the new branding, we express this connection to nature and

A love of technology, craftsmanship, nature and design – these

our commitment to improving the future through innovative and

are all key elements of our DNA that we are expressing in our new brand identity. Were there no concerns that the move could also have a negative impact, that trust would be lost?

146

What can you convey better now?

high-tech with traditional craftsmanship and underlines our passi-

sustainable products. Are there any particular designs or design elements that you want to emphasize as part of the rebranding? ROLF focuses on timeless design, characterized by clarity and

Change always requires courage, but we were not afraid of this

understatement. Our design is characterized by a harmonious

step. Our strength lies in our ability to create beautiful, high-quality

design language. We believe that good design starts in the gut,

eyewear. The rebranding was also not about changing our core

goes through the head and touches the heart. Aesthetics and

values – these will always remain the same.

technology are equally important. ROLF transforms complexity into

S P E C T R / / M A R K E T I N G TA L K

ROLF eyewear has always

been a pleasure to wear.

“For our bean eyewear, we use the fastgrowing castor bean as a plant-based raw material.”

simplicity. How does understatement in design manifest itself?

example, we will be presenting the Fusion collection at opti. This collection combines our technical expertise with natural mate-

In the functionality and beauty of our products. At ROLF, you don’t

rials – a real milestone for us. To this end, we have invested in the

recognize a pair of glasses by their eye-catching logo, but by their

modernization of our machinery. This investment underlines our

balanced shape and subtle, functional elegance. Our eyewear

commitment to high-tech, innovation and independence.

proves that functional design can also be beautiful. Each frame

The slogan #planetrolf appears again and again in your own ROLF

contains innovative know-how and natural simplicity. Giving these

magazine. What is it all about?

aspects more space and strengthening the ROLF brand as a

#planetrolf is more than just a slogan: the term symbolizes our

framework for our products was the core of our rebrandings.

commitment to a more sustainable planet and is a cornerstone of

Does the rebranding also involve adapting or expanding the collections?

our corporate philosophy. So #planetrolf stands for...?

Absolutely. In addition to maintaining our existing collections, we

Innovation, for constantly questioning the status quo and for our

will continuously introduce new products and collections. For

commitment to producing high-quality and durable eyewear from S P E C T R / / M A R K E T I N G TA L K

147

“One of our first tools and an essential part of the ROLF story: a converted milking machine.”

The Flexlock hinge is now a signature feature of the Tyrolean brand.

renewable raw materials. We communicate openly and transparently and leave it up to our partners and customers to decide what they consider to be sustainable and honest products. Our approach to sustainability is based on our own standards and beliefs and not on external organic or eco-labels. Everyone who can identify with our products meets at #planetrolf. That sounds self-confident. Yes, because sustainability has always been a matter of course for us. Our own production and local manufacturing make a major contribution to this. Innovations that make it possible to manufacture eyewear more sustainably and with fewer suppliers underline ROLF’s commitment and close the loop. We believe that we can

make a positive change with our products. With #planetrolf, we invite everyone to become part of this movement. Is the response to your sustainability approach the same in all 148

S P E C T R / / M A R K E T I N G TA L K

countries? No, it varies around the world. In Europe, where sustainability is firmly anchored in the consciousness, we receive enormously positive feedback. In other regions, this awareness of sustainability is not yet as pronounced. However, we are convinced that it is only a matter of time before other markets also recognize the importance of sustainable products and consumers specifically look for honest and environmentally conscious products. Has there already been any feedback from your opticians about your new brand identity? The feedback so far has been very positive. Our expectations have been more than fulfilled. We see our new brand identity as a kind of launch pad for all the wonderful developments that are yet to come. Good luck with that.

rolf-spectacles.com

S I

TE THE ART

ROBERT LA ROCHE »Cosmo«

150

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I S

ERS OF ACETATE

ROBERT LA ROCHE »Midnight«

photography, casting & styling

NARÈNTE // LUCIO ARU + FRANCO ERRE [Sardinia]

hair and make-up DANIELA DESSÌ models ANDREEA MUSTATA & EMMA STAGNO at LA REPRESENTS

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THE ART OF ACETATE

While acetate may be a common choice in eyewear, high-end acetate frames reveal a world of true artistry. Crafted from a blend of wood pulp and chemical alchemy, acetate is a semi-synthetic wonder with a storied history dating back to the 19th century. Combining strength with flexibility, acetate offers an extensive array of finishes, often showcasing vibrant and intricate colors, making it extremely interesting for fashionable eyewear. The frames, especially when produced by premium brands are a testament to meticulous craftsmanship, boasting hypoallergenic qualities and an eco-friendly nature, all while maintaining an exceptionally lightweight profile. But that's not all – they’re also undeniably fashionable, as you can witness here.

MARC O’POLO »503227«

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LOOK ACETATE »75372.C2«

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REIZ »Viereck«

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REIZ »Parabel«

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J.F. REY »Carolina 0010«

J.F. REY »JF1542 9138«

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CUTLER AND GROSS »GR05«

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SALT. »Logan«

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SALT. »Ryan«

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I-SPAX »Anja«

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Mod. 1475 | OWP Brillen GmbH | www.owp.de

photos J.F. REY

J.F. REY »Daytona«

French eyewear connoisseur J.F. REY has undeniably left its mark on the world of optical fashion with its bold and inventive designs. Since the 1980s, the iconic brand has infused each collection with passion and style. Building on this legacy of creativity and elegance, the brand has now unveiled its highly anticipated sunglass collection, venturing into

A Premiere For The French Brand

a new realm of sophistication with the same innovative spirit. The debut of the J.F. REY sunglasses collection marks a significant milestone. With a range of styles named after vibrant cities and timeless names, the collection captures the essence of the brand's commitment to modernity and artisanal craftsmanship. Each pair is a testament to J.F. REY’s expertise, developed through decades of fashion-forward thinking and an unwavering dedication to design.

J.F. REY GOES SUNGLASSES For the discerning man, the collection offers technicality, style and comfort through a sophisticated range of multi-material frames. With catchy names like »Houston«, »Daytona« and »Anderson«, the collection is

»Houston«

inspired by the iconic shapes of the 80s and 90s. Each piece embodies a fusion of natural tones and textures, making a nuanced yet powerful statement of elegance and prestige. The women’s line, with names like »Anna« and »April«, articulates a bold statement of 70s chic glamour fused with contemporary design finesse. These sunglasses stand out for their vibrant style and intricate construc-

»Anderson« 162

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tion – harmonious blend of metal and acetate, enriched with polarized nylon lenses.

J.F. REY »Anna«

More than just an accessory, J.F. REY sunglasses are a signature collection that redefines aesthetic and functional standards. They depart from the logo-centric norm to embody a synthesis of the brand’s craftsmanship. The unveiling of the collection is not just an extension of the product lines, but a statement. J.F. REY’s fearless approach to design, with its rich

color palette, intricate play of materials and architectural compositions, now seamlessly transitions into the world of sunglasses. jfrey.fr

»April«

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ETNIA BARCELONA »Yokohama 24K«

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Virtually try on ETNIA BARCELONA FAVRSPECS.COM

ETNIA BARCELONA YOKOHAMA 24K Since its foundation in 2001, ETNIA BARCE-

photos ETNIA BARCELONA

Elegance of Titanium X Beauty of Gold

LONA has established itself as one of the

leading brands in the world of fashionable eyewear design for discerning customers. Year after year, the Spanish brand inspires with collections that are in tune with the times. But what really sets ETNIA BARCELONA apart is the breathtaking color compositions that flow into all models – a color palette that is probably more extensive than that of any other brand. But it’s not just the eyewear that is always an eye-catcher, ETNIA BARCELONA is also at the forefront of communication. In its campaigns under the motto #BeAnartist, everyone is encouraged to express themselves freely through design. ETNIA BARCELONA combines color, art and culture and

feels closely connected to the city where the brand was born and grew to what it is today.

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With »Yokohama 24k«, ETNIA BARCELONA is now rounding off its expertise at the top end. The creation is a unique piece of jewelry that combines the elegance of titanium with the pure beauty of gold. The »Yokohama 24k« combines exclusivity, elegance and sophistication in one pair of glasses. The limited edition of only 250 pieces worldwide adds to the value of the »Yokohama 24k«. This rarity makes the glasses a coveted collector’s item. ETNIA BARCELONA uses the highest quality materials available. The base of the eyewear is high grade titanium – durable, lightweight and hypoallergenic. To enhance the beauty of the titanium frame, it is plated with 24-carat gold. But it’s not just the material that is impressive, the details are also lovingly crafted: from the laser-engraved Yokohama 24k lettering – also in Japanese – to the limited-edition numbering on the temples and the subtle golden mirror effect on the lenses. The titanium nose pads ensure a high level of comfort and the HD lenses provide exceptional vision.

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Pure exclusivity: gold meets titanium – but only 250 times.

ETNIA BARCELONA »Yokohama 24K«

The rounded and delicate shapes are reminiscent of Japanese minimalism, an elegant and subtle style that is reflected in all areas of the glasses. At the same time, the delicate, intertwined gold lines emphasize the beauty of the surfaces and create a visual symphony. The »Yokohama 24k« is a symbol of elegance and sophistication – at the highest level of material and workmanship. The Catalan design brand also knows that the product experience begins with the packaging, as the packaging offers a unique “unboxing” experience. The Yokohama 24k box is inspired by high-quality jewelry boxes. Every element exudes quality and sophistication, from the embossed outer paper to the black velvet inside. The logo embossed in gold is another sign of authenticity. It’s almost a shame that the »Yokohama 24k« will only make 250 people happy. etniabarcelona.com

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MODO »801W«

Discreet logo placement in the form

»802«

of a square insert.

MODO LEGACY »8007«

»8006«

The high-density acetate with the Visottica Comotec hinge offers a perfect balance between stability

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

and lightness.

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4 Titanium Frames To Rule Them All

The MODO Legacy collection was first introduced in 2023 with six beautiful acetate

collection achieves an impressive balance

models in delicate pastel colors. The collec-

between stability and lightness. This special

tion is an impressive tribute to MODO’s be-

acetate variant enables extremely thin yet

ginnings, which started back in 1990 with an

stable eyewear designs. The handmade wire

acetate collection. The impressive 30 years

core, the high-quality riveted hinges, high-

of experience of the designer label based in

tech details and the use of innovative mate-

New York, Milan and Stockholm is reflected

rials are characteristic of the MODO DNA,

in every facet of the Legacy collection. It im-

in which past and future merge to create

presses with its lightness, outstanding quality,

timeless frames.

innovative design and timeless style.

S P E C T R / / T E C H TA L K

By using high-density acetate, the Legacy

MODO »9001«

»9003«

»9002«

Vintage says hello: some titanium models feature finely milled grooves.

»9000«

In addition to the six optical glasses

made of high-quality beta titanium and not

introduced last year, the Legacy collection

only offer a high level of comfort, but also

will be expanded in 2024 to include eight

feature the square MODO logo at their ends

acetate models, five optical models and three

in a confident yet discreet manner.

sunglasses. The four models made from

MODO uses PVD technology for the colo-

The result of 30 years of

beta titanium form a new focal point. These

ring of the beta titanium frames, an extremely

experience: high material quality

titanium models follow the same philosophy

high-quality coating process that enables

and skilled craftsmanship.

as their acetate siblings and, as is typical for

brilliant and flawless color coatings of the

this material, impress with their functionality,

highest quality.

lightness and timeless aesthetics. Some of

MODO’s Legacy collection reflects the

the vintage-inspired titanium models feature

designer label's decades of experience,

finely milled grooves that underline MODO’s

outstanding quality and unmistakable design

quality craftsmanship. The temples are also

language.

modo.com S P E C T R / / T E C H TA L K

169

COL VAVA »WL0056«

A G

C O U photography

JOSEPH FORD [London]

digital artist CHANTAL CADUFF make-up JACQUI MCELROY hair DAVID CASSIDY models MILA LOVRIC & ERFAN TAVASOLI at D1 MODELS

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L E

VAVA »BL0034«

U SPECTR

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REFRAMING REALITY

Embark on a visual journey as British photographer Joseph Ford and Swiss digital artist Chantal Caduff collaborate to reimagine eyewear fashion. Known for her GIFs and collages, Chantal brings her eclectic creativity to life with vibrant, uniquely shaped backgrounds created from Joseph’s landscape archive, while the London-based photographer, known for his “Invisible Jumpers” series and many other conceptual projects, contributes captivating portraits and landscapes shot in Tokyo, Hawaii, London, Switzerland and Iceland. This seamless fusion of Chantal’s imaginative world and Joseph's storytelling photography creates a captivating exploration of colour, form and, of course, eyewear style.

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CAZAL »MOD. 226/3«

MAYBACH »The Boss II«

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IC! BERLIN »Carson«

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BARTON PERREIRA »Pickford«

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MYKITA »Serum«

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RAEN »Lonso«

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EINSTOFFEN »Couturier«

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NIRVAN JAVAN SHADES OF TORONTO »07:22:11 (EST)«

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VERONIKA WILDGRUBER »Marvel«

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Left Mod. 17048 - 378

Right Mod. 17047 - 376

CRAFTING THE FUTURE

CRAFTING THE FUTURE 3D PRINTED C R A F T I N G E Y E W E A R THE FUTURE

CRAFTING 3D printing is a marvel of innovation that over the years has changed not only the world of eyewear, but also the entire manufacturing in-

THE FUTURE dustry – here comes a visual tribute to a groundbreaking technology. 3D printing in the eyewear industry is more than just a passing

trend. It’s a paradigm shift. It offers brands unprecedented design

freedom, the ability to mold lightweight structures, and a path to sus-

CRAFTING tainable production. 3D printing is transformative, giving brands the opportunity to design eyewear that not only promises unparalleled

comfort and customization, but also symbolizes the harmonious marriage of utility and style.

It’s about more than just the allure of novelty or admiration for tech-

nological advancement. This innovation allows designers to create

THE FUTURE eyewear with intricate geometries and meticulous details previously considered unattainable, pushing the boundaries of creativity and

precision. This is a crucial point for brands, as it offers the opportunity to reinvent product lines and seamlessly combine innovation and

CRAFTING craftsmanship.

This SPECTR Magazine shoot showcases real innovation from

premium eyewear brands: GÖTTI presents fresh designs from its

Dimension collection. 3D specialist YOU MAWO brings its latest

creations to light. KLENZE & BAUM experiments with extraordinarily

transparent materials. And ØRGREEN presents titanium eyewear that is enhanced by a 3D printed inlay.

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183

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ 184

GÖTTI »Ilay«

BUBBLY COLLECTION BY GÖTTI DIMENSION SPECTR // 3D SPECIAL

Hello Sven and Adrian, what were the main reasons for you to opt for 3D printed eyewear and when did you launch the first collection with this new material? Sven: The story begins in 2013 with a pair of sports glasses that we wanted to produce in injection molding. We had the first prototypes produced using the industrial 3D printing process. When I held these samples in my hands, I realized that this process was much more suitable for producing glasses in smaller quantities. Fortunately, I didn’t know at the time what challenges lay ahead in terms of surface treatment and coloring. Now, over 10 years later, you have a very extensive 3D printing Dimension” express? collection. What does the collection name “Dimension Sven: The basis of industrial 3D printed glasses is data. Basically, anything that can be programmed three-dimensionally on a computer can also be printed. That’s where the word “dimension” comes in. It is the flexibility to expand into all dimensions that this type of production and the name “dimension” express.

New Spring Summer 3D Collection 2024

How is the data required for 3D printing created? Adrian: We start with a two-dimensional drawing that is created in CAD software. We can check this outside the computer, for example by plotting it out. This allows us to check the shape from the front. We discuss the relevant details such as target group,

GÖTTI has had early experience in the field of 3D printed eyewear.

base curve, edge thicknesses, jaw part size and much more. Then

The models of the Dimension collection have many fans among 3D

we start with the 3D modeling. Once all the details that define a

printing enthusiasts. In the spring of 2024, GÖTTI launches the Bubbly

pair of GÖTTI glasses are harmoniously combined in one frame,

series, 3D printed glasses with rounded surfaces. Sven Götti and

the modeling process is complete. The frame can then be 3D

Adrian Gögl tell us about their motivation and the challenges they had

printed for the first time. Adjustments are then made in further de-

to overcome.

velopment cycles until everything fits. The data is then optimized for production and all steps are taken to integrate the frame into the collection. Design What is In this context, you also talk about Freedom of Design. behind this? Adrian: A special feature of 3D printing is tool-free production. This term means that we can produce almost any shape in the printer without having to invest in individual tools beforehand. Do you make the most of your design freedom or do you prefer to stick to the tried and tested shapes? Sven: For me, glasses must always have a feel-good factor. They can be a bit angular or edgy, or, as with the Bubbly collection, extremely rounded. But the style, the feel and ultimately the wearing comfort must remain GÖTTI-compliant. When it comes to 3D printing, everything comes from a single source – from the initial idea to the finished product. What are the

Virtually try on GÖTTI FAVRSPECS.COM

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185

GÖTTI »Ilana«

Rounded surfaces are the hallmark of the Bubbly collection.

particular challenges involved? Adrian: One challenge is to maintain the GÖTTI style despite the great design freedom across all stages involved and not to stray from the path of minimal and stylish aesthetics. In-house production has its advantages. What are they? Adrian: On the one hand, in-house production allows us to realize faster development cycles, and on the other, it gives us the flexibility to integrate new and special designs into the collection. For us, this is an ideal playground for creativity. This flexibility in design is also reflected in the 2024 models of the Dimension collection, the Bubbly series. How would you describe the design style of the new glasses? Sven: With the Bubbly series, it’s the feel that fascinates. When you pick up the Bubbly glasses, you don’t want to put them down. I am always pleasantly surprised at what is possible with this type of production. How does the surprising aesthetic come about? Sven: It all starts with an idea, a feeling or a desire for a new design language. I sit down with Adrian and we start to formulate it and visualize it with the help of hand sketches. Adrian then looks for a suitable solution to implement the ideas in three dimensions. We have known each other for many years now and I really enjoy

186

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GÖTTI »Ivie«

working with Adrian. Also, of course, because I've been impressed by the results so often. What was the inspiration for this new collection? Sven: We have very thin and also rather solid and angular glasses in the collection. The idea was to create a completely new feel. Experience has also shown that rounded surfaces are particularly suitable for 3D printing, which comes into its own particularly well with the Bubbly collection. What were the particular challenges in designing and producing the new models? Adrian: The particular challenge in this case was to reproduce these strongly rounded frames in the software in the way we had imagined and to apply this methodology to all models in the line. It would have been useless to solve the problem for just one shape. We always want to use an idea to create a group, or rather a family, of frames that carry the GÖTTI DNA and that fit together in the collection while still being formally different. What color scheme do you use for the new models? Sven: We are presenting the Bubbly collection in the familiar Dimension color scheme. It has to be said that the colors are parti-

»Ivon«

cularly effective on the rounded surfaces. gotti.ch SPECTR // 3D SPECIAL

187

KLENZE & BAUM »Laval«

GAME CHANGING MATERIAL BY KLENZE & BAUM

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

“Acelike” – 3D Printed Glasses With Acetate Look

Time never stands still when it comes to 3D printed eyewear; materials and processes are constantly being optimized to further improve function and comfort for the user. The 3D specialist KLENZE & BAUM is now launching glasses made of Acelike, a semitransparent material that comes very close to the look and feel of acetate, in its Sleek Virtually try on KLENZE & BAUM FAVRSPECS.COM

188

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collection. An interview with Stefan Roesinger and Aurélien Mierswa about new horizons in 3D printing.

ACELIKE – ACETATE LOOK MEETS 3D PRINTING Hello Stefan and Aurélien, you are known in the industry as drivers of innovation and have already played a leading role in establishing slightly translucent, vegetable oilbased 3D printing. Now you are going one step further. What have you developed? Stefan: At Silmo 2023, we presented 3D-printed frames that are much more translucent than anything we’ve seen before. It is now possible to produce glasses that are similar to acetate in both look and feel, but offer the advantages of 3D printing. How are these frames produced? Aurélien: In the DLP process, liquid resin

KLENZE & BAUM »Gloy«

is hardened by light. So, we are no longer dealing with white powder that is melted by lasers, but with photopolymers that harden layer by layer by projecting images.

CUSTOMIZATION THE FAST WAY

Acelike. Why is that? You call this material Acelike Aurélien: In reference to the similarity with

The advantage of patented technology: metal inserts in all 3D-printed temples

Does the customization process you men-

from KLENZE & BAUM ensure very easy

acetate, but also because we have a real

tioned for the Acelike models work in the

and unique adjustability.

ace up our sleeve here.

same way as before?

How does the material differ from acetate?

Stefan: In principle, yes. Here too, the

Stefan: The material doesn’t fade, doesn’t

optician specifies the desired parameters

turn gray and doesn’t shrink over time.

for the custom glasses and all relevant

You can also customize the frames,

anatomical values can be changed. The

which is typical for 3D printing and also

big difference with custom glasses made

a specialty of our brand. We have opted

from Acelike is the much faster produc-

for a matt finish, which we consider to

tion process compared to conventional

be of very high quality. We can still see a slight 3D printing-specific structure in the

3D printing. How much faster are you?

detail, but this makes a subtle difference

Aurélien: While glasses made from poly-

to acetate. The surface of the glasses

amide still take us 4-6 weeks to deliver,

feels amazing and much softer than the

Acelike frames made from liquid resin

previous 3D print.

only take 2-3 weeks. SPECTR // 3D SPECIAL

189

Acelike’s environWhat can be said about Acelike mental footprint? Stefan: The new production process saves a considerable amount of energy, which leads to a reduced CO2 footprint,

while the print itself uses 90% less energy than conventional SLS 3D printing, with SLS 3D printing already consuming 50% less energy than processing acetate. Aurélien: Material production is also 50% less energy-intensive than SLS. We are well on the way to establishing a particularly environmentally friendly technology. How are you establishing the new material in your collections? Stefan: Since Silmo 2023, all glasses from With Sleek frames, the pill at the end of

THE ADVANTAGES OF ACELIKE

our Sleek collection can be ordered with

How does the special color fastness come

finish. The temples can also be easily

the temple can be unscrewed, the temple shortened and the pill screwed back on.

about? Aurélien: The special thing about the Acelike material is that it is colored through, which means that the color is not only applied to the top layer of the glasses – as with conventional 3D printing – but is an integral part of the material itself. This results in unparalleled color brilliance and color stability, even compared to acetate.

the new material in four colors with a matte shortened using our Steel Pill at the end of the temple. We find the temple solution with the new material particularly aesthetically pleasing, which features a metal core in a translucent 3D printed temple in four possible metal colors. The development of this elaborate temple production took us a lot of time and brainpower, so we are particularly proud of it.

KLENZE & BAUM »Tiro« 190

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»Davy«

KLENZE & BAUM »Papin« The Asket collection is highly aesthetic, very light and extremely flexible thanks to its material mix of polyamide front and titanium

The voluminous Sumo frames are

temples.

hollow-printed and extremely lightweight. As in all frames, metal inserts are also built into the temple, which allow easy temple adjustment.

THE FUTURE OF 3D PRINTING How has the market responded to your

Pill, which allows the temple ends to be

new development?

easily shortened. We want to maintain

Stefan: We have always had a great affi-

this innovative strength. We will work on

nity for 3D printing in German-speaking

internationalization, but at the same time

countries and in Benelux. The extremely

we will not forget our roots in Munich’s

The patented hinge allows the temple

positive feedback from these regions

creative district, the Glockenbachviertel:

to pop off when overloaded. It can be

comes as little surprise to us, as innova-

Here we are planning collaborations with

quickly reassembled with a flick of the

tions and new aesthetics are gratefully

neighboring artists and life artists.

wrist. KLENZE & BAUM offers a lifetime

accepted here. However, we are particularly pleased about the enthusiasm from

We wish you continued success! klenzebaum.com

guarantee on the functionality of the joint.

traditionally acetate-oriented countries such as France. It is now possible to combine the acetate look preferred there with 3D printing. This has earned us a lot of praise. So much for the status quo. What is your focus for the future? Aurélien: In recent years, we have

»Spinoza«

brought numerous unique innovations to the market: patented joints that allow the temples to pop off after overstressing and can be reconstructed, hollow-printed lightweight glasses, a process patent that allows us to add a metal insert to all 3D printed temples and make them easy to adjust and, last but not least, the Steel SPECTR // 3D SPECIAL

191

photos RAPHAEL SCHMITZ

Virtually try on YOU MAWO FAVRSPECS.COM

YOU MAWO – A LOOK BACK AND FORWARD

to specialize in 3D printed eyewear and knows

Hello Sebastian, with YOU MAWO you are

ting has developed in exciting ways and

made from acetate or titanium, for example?

one of the pioneers of 3D printed eyewear.

we are proud to have not only accom-

Of course, we still have a long way to

How do you feel about the technology

panied this development, but to have ac-

go before we have the market share of

today?

tively helped shape it. We are observing

acetate or titanium, but these materials

We are pleased to be seen as pioneers,

how 3D printing is becoming more and

also have a head start of 100 years. I am

but of course we were not the only ones

more established in the eyewear industry.

convinced that with today’s advantages

to recognize the advantages of this tech-

Have 3D printed glasses been able to esta-

such as individual adaptability, lightness

nology early on. Over the years, 3D prin-

blish themselves, comparable to glasses

and durability and a few more develop-

YOU MAWO has been one of the first brands

the market better than most other manufacturers. We talk to co-founder Sebastian Zenetti about the potential of 3D printing and YOU MAWO’s role in particular.

New Styles for 2024

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The new Sunshades show what is possible in 3D printing and come in a color palette adapted to the 90s: white, green and violet.

YOU MAWO »Pica«

»Caledon«

»Grover«

ments that are currently underway, we will

trends and signals an evolution in the

On the one hand, there are product

catch up with the established materials

way eyewear is designed, customized

advantages such as lightness, stability,

and technologies in the medium term.

and produced. The ability to produce on

durability and customizability. On the

So we’re no longer talking about a fad?

demand, locally, sustainably and scalably

other hand, there are strategic advanta-

will prevail.

ges such as design freedom, on-demand

Absolutely not. The technology has proven to be sustainable and forward-

After many years of development, what do

production and localization options.

looking in eyewear manufacturing. This

you see as the most important advantages

The sales process requires more commit-

development goes beyond temporary

of 3D printed eyewear?

ment from the optician. What is the benefit SPECTR // 3D SPECIAL

193

YOU MAWO highlights: »Daedalus« and

»Zagora« from the Bold collection, »Juno«

YOU MAWO »Zagora«

from the Air collection and »Daisen« from the Classic line.

»Juno«

of this?

194

loyalty?

optician can not only digitally display the

I would only relate this to custom-made

Many of our customers have understood

desired glasses, but can also change

glasses. The standard 3D printed glasses

that the individualization of glasses is

certain parameters such as size, bridge

are selling very well. At least that’s what

not just about producing well-fitting

width, incarnation, temple length, base

our sales figures in the stores say.

glasses for people who are a little “out

etc. themselves and see in real time what

Customized glasses, on the other hand,

of the box”. It’s also about the customer

influence the changed parameters have

require a little more passion. Our aim is to

experience in the optician’s store and the

on the fit and aesthetics. Many people

make the process of custom-made glasses

experience and feeling that comes with

would be surprised at the influence the

as simple and intuitive as possible. Today,

a good consultation. Personally, I would

right incarnation can have on the seat

opticians are able to create a pair of

recommend every optician to fit extrover-

height.

bespoke glasses in less than 5 minutes,

ted customers with bespoke glasses and

In terms of design, there are virtually no

from scan to order. Nevertheless, more

turn them into “brand ambassadors” for

limits with the 3D printing process.

consultation is usually necessary and

their own business – they will tell friends

Anything is possible, but does everything

recommended. However, the number of

and acquaintances about their individual

make sense?

units in the bespoke eyewear segment is

glasses.

We place particular emphasis on functio-

increasing significantly. More and more

How does the customization process at

nality and practicality. Where necessary,

opticians are discovering this additional

YOU MAWO work?

we use the great advantages of our

service and the associated benefits and

The basis for the fitting is a 3D scan of

technology. But of course there are also

sales for themselves.

the face, which is created using an iPad

applications where injection molding and

Does the more intensive consultation

or iPhone. Infrared cameras are used

process create added value and customer

to create a realistic avatar on which the

SPECTR // 3D SPECIAL

classic series production have advantages. Is there a common sense of good design

YOU MAWO »Daedalus«

Clear lines, no frills – that’s the design CI from YOU MAWO.

»Daisen«

that you apply to your corporate design?

sunglasses. Technically, the fading lines

Are there any new technical features that

In other words, what is typical for YOU

are a big challenge for customization, but

we haven’t seen from you before?

MAWO?

we were able to expand our algorithm to

We have dedicated ourselves to the

Clear lines, no frills, the focus is on

produce these great glasses as a custo-

Windsor ring theme and reinterpreted it in

comfort and our glasses should make

mized version.

our YOU MAWO way. The curves turn the

the wearer look good and look good, we

How many models are there in the new

outer frame and Windsor ring into a single

want to support the personality and not

collection?

unit, while the colors create highlights

For opti 2024, we will be adding five new

and accentuate the rings even more. The

In terms of design, are you building on

glasses to our standard Air & Classic

shapes are more classic, based on typical

previous collections with your new collec-

collections. We have added four new

Windsor models.

tion or are you breaking new ground?

styles to our sunglasses that continue the

As a brand, you define yourself not only

theme of fading lines. And there will be

through technology, but also through a

two new DesignLab glasses.

modern style. And you like to think outside

change it.

We are constantly developing our successful models further and always create something new through targeted changes

Which colorways will dominate in 2024?

the box. Do you have collaborations with other brands in the pipeline?

and small accents, without leaving our

We have focused particularly on bold

line. For Silmo 2023, we have launched

colors: White, green and a unique, very

Yes, we will be launching our first collabo-

the Extra Bold line, which picks up on our

shiny purple. The color palette is very

ration with another company at opti this

popular Bold eyewear, but goes one step

much based on the 90s, just like the

year. It’s still top secret, but take a look

further with a more striking temple and

associated styles. The colors in the new

fading lines, which we already have in our

sunglasses collection are limited.

and be curious. That’s what we’re doing.

youmawo.com

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ØRGREEN »Plus One«

ØRGREEN 3D PRINTED Danish RINGS Functional Aesthetics

3D printed frames have a distinct quality that sets them apart. But of course, the art of eyewear is not limited to 3D printing alone. More often than not, it’s the synergy of mixed materials that captures our attention, capitalizing on the unique benefits each brings to the table. ØRGREEN presents three such models that photos ØRGREEN

exemplify this innovative blend, each with a

196

design that is refreshingly new. We had the pleasure of speaking with Frederic Lassalle, Head of Design at ØRGREEN, to learn more about these fresh creations. SPECTR // 3D SPECIAL

ØRGREEN »Leo Minor«

The best of both worlds – titanium meets 3D printing.

Hi Frederic, 3D printed glasses are nothing

color during the printing process have yet

new for ØRGREEN. With your Quantum

to match the look and feel of real acetate

High collection, you have been one of the

materials, for example.

differently to light, creating an interesting look. What do you see when you look at it from

pioneers in this segment for many years.

The highlight is that you combine 3D prin-

What do you see as the advantages of 3D

ting with classic titanium frames. Why did

Our side shield – it adds depth and

printed eyewear in general?

you do that?

dimension to the frame and shows the

the side?

SLS 3D printed eyewear allows us to work

We wanted to contrast the two materials.

full potential of 3D printing technology in

with volumes and technical features that

The front and the temples are made of

eyewear design.

are impossible to produce with CNC or

the usual ØRGREEN quality titanium.

You talk about “functional aesthetics” in

molding, and is also the most sustainable

These are complemented by the 3D rings

this context. Could you explain what you

way to produce frames in the current

within the rim of the eyeglasses frame,

mean by that and how it applies to your

industrial landscape.

which adds a unique aesthetic element

eyewear designs?

What can 3D printed eyewear do less

with beautiful color details on the front

Our side shields add both visual appeal

effectively than eyewear made from other

and a dynamic visual experience when

and functional benefits. In fact, some

materials?

the frame is turned. Both have strength

opticians have found that they allow them

and lightness, but the two surfaces react

to offer their customers larger lenses in

The finishes and prints that integrate

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197

ØRGREEN »Wish«

smaller, slimmer frames, creating a sleek and stylish look without the bulk of thick Functional aesthetics:

lenses. Does the material mix in your eyewear give

the 3D printed sideshields not

you more flexibility in color design? How

only look good, but also allow

does that affect your design options?

large lenses to be processed in

This is a topic that is always close to ØRGREEN’s heart. While nylon offers a more limited color palette, our experience in color development on titanium gives us an indisputable advantage. But as Sahra Lysell (ØRGREEN color designer) always says, two colors together make a third color, and this one also combines two different surfaces. What is special about the »Wish«? Explore a square shape and architectural details for this version of the combo frame. What is special about the »Plus One«? A new take on the iconic pilot frame with modernized, simple bridge details. What is special about the »Leo Minor«? It’s the already essential Panto shape highlighted in our previous Sun collection. orgreenoptics.com 198

SPECTR // 3D SPECIAL

filigree frames.

C I T Y photography, casting & styling

NARÈNTE // LUCIO ARU + FRANCO ERRE [Sardinia]

assistant GABRIELE CARTA MORO hair and make-up DANIELA DESSÌ model BABA & ANDREA at LA REPRESENTS

BOYS& RAEN »Alvez« pullover VINTAGE HARAJUKU pants RECLAIMED VINTAGE shoes NIKE

ISLAND 200

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RAEN »Alvez« jacket RECLAIMED VINTAGE pants DICKIES tank top RAG & BONE

D SPECTR

201

INVU »IB22404D« blazer UNDERCOMMON pullover LUERTIS

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SPOTTED IN SARDINIA

Experience the fascinating fusion of urban chic and the enchantingly tranquil backdrop of Sardinia in this SPECTR Magazine Eyewear Fashion Shoot. Bold, high-quality eyewear meets authentic street style. While city boys conquer the beaches, raw urban energy merges with romantic Mediterranean light. Welcome to a fashion statement that blurs the boundaries between urban and idyllic.

MYKITA »Ferlo« cardigan COMME TOI shirt RANDOM IDENTITIES

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PORSCHE DESIGN »P’8968« zipper jacket VINTAGE

204

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DAVIDOFF »DAP123-01« sweater ASOS shirt UNDERCOMMON

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MODO »4425« cardigan COMEFORBREAKFAST tank top RABANNE

206

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RODENSTOCK »R7151« blazer HUGO sweater TOPMAN

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IC! BERLIN »Nash« -

pullover RECLAIMED VINTAGE pants HUGO

208

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MASUNAGA | K3 »Tobi« pullover LUERTIS pants RECLAIMED VINTAGE

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OWP »8765 100« -

pullover PINKO

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12. BIS 14.01.2024

CCO - VILLA NINO - 247 AVENUE BOULOUMIÉ - BP20031 - 88801 VITTEL CEDEX - TEL. +33 (0)3 29 07 88 91 - WWW.LUNETTES-CCO.DE

Modèle : CMS174 LA RIVIERA

HALLE C2 STAND C2.419

photos LUNOR

LUNOR »Classic Rund«

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SPECTR // COLLECTION CHECK

Virtually try on LUNOR FAVRSPECS.COM

LUNOR »Classic Rund«

R O

In the world

of eyewear, there are classics

that never go out of fashion. The LUNOR »Classic

Round« is undoubtedly one of these timeless favorites. The

model is an integral part of the LUNOR collection and has been deligh-

ting discerning eyewear enthusiasts for decades.

The special thing about the »Classic Round« presented here is the material used:

precious 18-carat gold. In the gold and white gold versions, these glasses are at their

best. The temple tips are encased in the finest acetate, which not only ensures outstanding comfort, but also rounds off the overall look. The LUNOR »Classic Round« is emblematic of the Black Forest company’s DNA. “LUNOR” is a derivation of “Lunettes d’Or”, which translates as “gold glasses”. Gold has always been an important part of the LUNOR collection and the current »Classic Round« continues this tradition. The »Classic Round« is part of LUNOR’s success story and is one of the top sellers in the collection, not Apple founder Steve Jobs, who wore these frames for 14 years. The »Classic Round« is manufactured in a small factory in Switzerland

A Classic Reissued In Gold

least because the »Classic Round« is associated with the legendary

– by hand. A special gold welding process ensures that the material is not heated, guaranteeing the highest quality and durability.

A frame for people who appreciate true values and are looking for something lasting. For eyewear lovers who are looking for exclusivity and at the same time value understatement – an example of “silent luxury”.

To complete the experience, the »Classic Round« 18K Gold comes with a creamcolored genuine leather case, a soft microfiber cleaning cloth, and a certificate true piece of jewelry – a pair of eyewear for eternity that combines style and quality.

C I SS

lunor.com

CLA

of authenticity in a premium box. This makes each »Classic Round« a

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213

photos KALEOS

»Ardmore«

KALEOS »Barnum«

THE PASSING OF TIME AND ITS BEAUTY »Campbel«

KALEOS Celebrates Its 10th Birthday

KALEOS is celebrating its 10th birthday and is dedicating the anniver-

sary year to the concept of “The passing of time and its beauty”. We talk to creative director Claudia Brotons about the development of the Spanish fashion label over the last ten years and how beauty is also influenced by time. 214

SPECTR // ANNIVERSARY

Designing the next collection begins as soon as the current one is complete.

Hello Claudia, you are celebrating your 10th birthday. Congratulations! How does it feel?

scientific research. We see this as a way of giving something back. For this year, you have chosen the theme

Ten years is a lot for some people, less

“Time and Beauty”. Why is this theme so

for others. For KALEOS, it has been an

important to you?

incredible journey with so many events

The concept for this year could not be

that we are very proud of.

anything other than the passing of time.

How has KALEOS developed as a brand and

This touches on many points for us. At

as a company?

the moment, we are looking at various

We are very proud of the fact that we

proposals for donating to research into

started out as a small company and have

age-related diseases such as Alzheimer’s

developed into what we are today. We

or dementia.

owe a large part of our success to our

You also show older people in your

team, which has become stronger and

campaign. Is that a statement for you?

stronger over time. As we have grown,

Our statement is a comprehensive tribute

we have become more professional,

to everything that has to do with the

which has enabled us to set very high

passing of time, including the people who

standards for the quality of our products.

have supported us the most over the

are presenting 30 new styles for women

years. People can still be very stylish in

(18 sun styles and 12 optical styles) and

Yes, as a modern company we have to

their old age and don’t have to wear the

12 new styles for men. Each silhouette is

keep up with the times. We are constantly

typical old age clothes. They have a lot of

a chapter, a story told through contours,

on the lookout for design suggestions,

knowledge and experience, and like eve-

angles and curves. From reinterpreted

trends and new constructions in order

rything in life, it’s a question of attitude.

classics to the avant-garde, the collection

to be able to offer innovative product

Tell us about the new collection. What is

is a tribute to the diversity of shapes that

designs. Our focus on the shape of the

special about it?

has shaped the KALEOS journey. It is an

Has the design also changed?

glasses has not changed over the years.

Our spring/summer 2024 collection is a

invitation to discover, to adorn oneself

Your company philosophy and culture have

visual feast, a kaleidoscope of shapes. It’s

with design and to reflect on the bounda-

also evolved.

the biggest collection we’ve ever had. We

ries of time. kaleoscollection.com

Our values and enthusiasm are still very similar to when we started. We have the feeling that we have learned a lot over the last ten years, which also allows us to look positively to the future and break new ground. One new aspect, for example, is that every year we decide on a theme to which we want to devote ourselves

KALEOS »Van Dyne«

completely. Why are you involved here? This anniversary year is about reflecting on and honoring the past. Over the last ten years, our company has grown and therefore we can and want to start with a global annual commitment. Each year we will develop a different concept. Part of this commitment will be to donate a certain percentage of our turnover to SPECTR // ANNIVERSARY

215

Virtually try on BARTON PERREIRA FAVRSPECS.COM

SNOW WHITE & ROSE RED BARTON PERREIRA New Style Highlights

photography

SOPHIE DAUM [Hamburg]

assistant NILS ROHDE styling DILARA TUNCER hair & make-up ERIKA NEUMANN models AMELIE & JEPPE at LOUISA MODELS 216

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

BARTON PERREIRA »Daniel« -

jacket BERSHKA

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217

Bill Barton and Patty Perreira have been active in the premium eyewear segment for so long that the eyewear from BARTON PERREIRA can definitely be considered classics. The new models presented here also fit seamlessly into the design DNA of the American luxury label. The new models are a tribute to highquality eyewear design and once again testify to the dedication and skill of designer Patty Perreira. The iconic models stand out

»Pickford« -

jacket MASSIMO DUTTI earrings H&M

BARTON PERREIRA »Jean« shirt HUGO BOSS jacket STRELLSON necktie SUITSUPPLY

218

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

BARTON PERREIRA »Aikau« -

shirt H&M coat CALVIN KLEIN earrings THOMAS SABO

with their beveled accents and polished contours. The carefully selected colors show that nature served as a source of inspiration. BARTON PERREIRA demonstrates its generalist expertise when it comes to shapes and materials. From acetate to titanium, from bold frames to rimless, from understated design to fashion statement – all models impress with subtle, refined

»Jagger« -

turtleneck ZARA jacket KING LOUIE

details and high-quality workmanship. For SPECTR, the new highlights were staged in analog form by Hamburg photographer Sophie Daum. bartonperreira.com

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219

BARTON PERREIRA »Zander« -

shirt HUGO BOSS

»Welch« -

jacket MANGO dress SELECTED FEMME earrings PILGRIM

»Nattie« dress MANGO jewelry PILGRIM 220

SPECTR // COLLECTION SHOOT

2024 • Munich - OPTI 12-14 Jan. (C1.633) • Mailand - MIDO 03-05 Feb. (PAV 2 M46) • Paris - SILMO 20-23 Sept. • HonKong - Int. OPITICAL FAIR 06-08 Nov. •

VISIONS

photography

IVON WOLAK [Barcelona]

styling DAVOR JELUSIC hair & make-up ANASTASIA BABII models LAURA at UNO MODELS & XAVIER at TAKE3MANAGEMENT

H CASUAL FRIDAY

222

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BARTON PERREIRA »Gyalis« -

jacket ZARA pants SELECTED

E BARTON PERREIRA »Aldrin« -

shirt MASSIMO DUTTI

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223

CLÉMENCE & MARGAUX »CMS165 THE PEARL« -

coat ZARA

CASUAL FRIDAY

Join us on a visual journey exploring the silhouettes of modern full-rim frames along the tranquil shores of Banyoles, Catalonia. This SPECTR Magazine feature by Davor Jelusic artfully juxtaposes the natural grandeur of the locale with the distinctive character of our spectacle selection.

224

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HOFFMANN NATURAL EYEWEAR »329« -

shirt PABLO ERROZ pants ARKET

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225

MASUNAGA »GMS-125« -

coat ZARA, shirt DION LEE 226

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ETNIA BARCELONA »Posidonia« dress BOTTEGA VENETA

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227

ROBERT LA ROCHE »Donnie« -

dress COS stockings CALZEDONIA

228

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CAZAL »MOD. 607/3 ALU« -

jacket NANUSHKA, shirt COS, pants ARKET SPECTR

229

HECHTER PARIS »HEP026-2« outfit ZARA 230

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MYKITA »Satin« -

blazer & shirt MASSIMO DUTTI

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231

METROPOLITAN »8285« -

jacket COS pants ZARA shirt DIESEL

232

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