ARTICLE
COVID ERA A REVIVAL OF THE CONCEPTION OF FASHION LUXURY? BY SARAH MOKHTARI
The pandemic has plunged the world and society into unparalleled silence, along with it went the world of fashion.
Nowadays, the question of ecological sustainability is increasingly being asked and this health crisis has, more than ever, highlighted the need to opt for more sustainable practices in fashion production and retail. The industry has been pursuing such a goal well before the beginning of the pandemic, through the vision of the Fashion Pact launched in 2019, that unites more than sixty CEOs towards the achievement of three common goals: the preservation of the world’s climate, biodiversity and oceans. Some companies, such as Burberry and Kering (owner of several brands such as Yves Saint Laurent or Alexader McQueen), have decided to put sustainable development at the heart of their post-covid policy. This was characterized in particular by the willingness to adopt online Fashion Week shows, allowing for the limited travel of buyers, air travel and road travel.
For the first time in the modern history of fashion, the world experienced the cancellation of high-profile events such as the Met Gala 2020 or Beautycon. Giorgio Armani was the first to cancel its live display of the fall collection, the first time in 45 years a runway show was canceled. The biggest global health crisis of modern times upset everything in its path, including the world of fashion and luxury. Indeed, according to the Belgian designer Christian Wijnants, “even the financial crash of 2008 had less impact”. Repeated lockdowns and the abrupt economic slowdown presented a new challenge: creating and innovating when the world ceased to operate normally. We are witnessing a transformation of the production lines, to remain an important player in the ongoing fight against the epidemic. For instance, LVMH has redirected its production to supply masks to hospitals, as well as sanitizers, to donate them to Assistance Publique - Hôpitaux de Paris in France. Luxury brands have also had to adapt to the sudden shift in consumer behavior: it is possible to notice a decline in overall spending, due to the numerous ockdowns. Also, as is expected, people have been increasingly opting for online retail options, resulting in brands having to rethink the role of physical stores in the retail process.
History has shown us that we must remain optimistic about the future, whatever the cost, even during the most critical moments. Indeed, the very hard period of the Second World War led to many innovations, such as Christian Dior’s “New Look”, on which the French couturier was able to build his empire in the late 1940s. To recontextualise this period, many fashion houses have collaborated to restore the reputation of French fashion such as Balenciaga, Lanvin and Balmain using fabric scraps and other ‘plain’ materials to create exceptional pieces. Fashion does not suffer from the context in which it is invented, as long as there will always be people present to dare to escape and create. 40
