The Luxury Pandemic (Article)

As we mask up once again, it’s safe to say we wouldn’t have come as far as we have without the courageous efforts of those who worked throughout the pandemic. Though everyone played their part in keeping each other safe, it is only fair to honour those who are frontline workers throughout these uncertain and life-threatening times. Their selflessness and sacrifice are immeasurable, and it’s clear to see a 3% pay rise is nowhere near enough to equate to the impact they had on the country’s safe recovery.

Covid-19 saw the world unite against fear and isolation in a way none of us could have expected. Most unexpectedly, luxury fashion houses played an instrumental role in keeping essential workers safe during the first wave of the pandemic. Chanel no. 5 became hand sanitiser, Burberry coats became nurses’ overalls, and Ralph Lauren polos became medical-grade face masks as the companies shifted their factories from fashion to function. Prada even funded two intensive care units, whilst the likes of Victoria Beckham donated a portion of profits to food bank charities with the aim of keeping the nation fed.

We must pay credit where it's due, and it’s most certainly due here. But one must question the motives of these brands – particularly upon reflection of their actions since gaining freedom from national lockdowns. Was gratitude just a trend to them? Whilst surely many of the donors acted altruistically or out of appreciation, it’s unclear whether others had ulterior motives. Many moves were tokenistic and self-serving – for example, performatively offering minor discounts to NHS workers who often can’t afford to splurge on unnecessary items.

Infuriatingly, this pandemic has proven that luxury brands have the ability to cater for the working people, they just choose not to. Take the Balenciaga Hi-Vis jacket for example – an essential item to industrial workers, but because there is a logo it costs more than most earn per month. Of course, luxury is defined as being excessive and

unattainable to the masses – of unparalleled quality, history, and price tag. But surely originality can thrive without feeding off the culture of the working class? The fashion industry can often take advantage of working people without acknowledging their input or designing things that truly serve them day-to-day, and that cater to their financial means.

It’s easy to forget the importance of the things and people we take for granted. As we ride the future waves of Covid-19 we will again be reliant upon essential workers. It will be interesting to see whether these big brands will adapt once more to the changing demands of the people, or whether gratitude has, indeed, gone out of fashion.

Photography- Songju Kang Models- Urtė Gumuliauskaitė, Mia Olagbaju, Wang Zhijing Helena Stylists- Charlotte Bailey, Urtė Gumuliauskaitė