MODERN BARBER MAGAZINE - ISSUE 27

ISSUE 27 JULY - SEPTEMBER 2020 | £5 | www.modernbarber.co.uk

+ Exclusive

WAHL step-by-step

Know Your Price - tips on charging correctly.

CAUGHT

BY THE WEB How the digital world will help the industry post-pandemic. Pages 5, 20, 68

MB’S BIG BARBERING WEEKEND IN BRIGHTON HAIR: CLAIRE HEENAN. EQUINOX GENTLEMAN’S REFINERY PHOTO: ROB FRY

GET IN TOUCH

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EDITOR: Charlotte Grant-West charlotte@modernbarber.co.uk DESIGN AND PRODUCTION: Daniel Parker Daniel@professionalbeauty.co.uk

CONTRIBUTORS: Simon Shaw, Mike Taylor, Alan Beak, Elliot Forbes, Simon Harvey, Damian Diablo, Leah Hayden Cassidy, Cheryl Broad.

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PUBLISHER: Mark Moloney, Managing Director, Professional Beauty Group.

Modern Barber is a trading name of M Squared Media Ltd 06318537.

Registered address: Allington House, 25 High Street, Wimbledon Village, SW19 5DX

COVER CREDITS: Art Direction: Simon Shaw Hair: Sam Campagna Photography: Ayo Banton Styling: Nana O Make-Up: Ebun Abatan FIND US ONLINE: modernbarber.co.uk SOCIAL: IG/Twitter @modernbarbermag, FB Modern Barber Magazine Printed by Pensord Ltd. Pensord.co.uk Modern Barber Magazine, Professional Beauty Group and M Squared Media accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no responsibility can be accepted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without prior written permission from the publishers.

Modern Barber’s circulation has been independently audited and verified by the Audit Bureau of Circulations (abcstandards.org.uk) and reaches over 7,000 independent addresses.

LOCAL, ABU DHABI

ALAN BEAK AMOS ACADEMY

ADVERTISING: Jane Arrowsmith jane@modernbarber.co.uk Call for all advertising enquiries 0203 841 7373.

SUBSCRIPTIONS: Subscriptions can be securely purchased online through modernbarber.co.uk/subscribe or by calling +44 (0)1371 851874. For general enquiries and change of address info, please contact modernbarber@escosubs.co.uk UK SUBS £20 pa for four issues, INTERNATIONAL SUBS £40 pa for four issues including postage and packing. Returns: ESco Business Services Ltd, Trinity House, Sculpins Lane, Wethersfield, Braintree, Essex, CM7 4AY

HÁR BARBER

SHOPPING 38 GEAR: Stuff you need and gear you want.

PORTFOLIO

CONTENTS ISSUE 27 | JULY - SEPTEMBER 2020

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4 Snippets and stories from, in, around and on the industry.

FEATURES 10 LOCKDOWN DIARIES: Three barbers share their lockdown experience.

16 INTERNATIONAL SHOP: Local, Abu Dhabi.

20 A CONSTANT STREAM: Lots of skills to be had online.

28 INSIDE: The Barber Room, Coventry.

30 THE SHUTDOWN SURVEY: The stats you shared in our short survey.

COMMUNITY 62 THE 10 MINUTE CHAT: Neal Toner of JFH Social 64 ON BRAND: Why three Andis Educators love their job.

66 THE SHAW THING: home of Simon Shaw’s regular column.

68 MIKES HOT TOPIC: Mike Taylor’s opinion piece.

6 THE MODERN BARBER AWARDS: celebrating the everyday barber.

8 SALON INTERNATIONAL: a slice of the MB Stage talent at Salon.

44 18 PAGES of great looking man hair.

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70 SOCIAL (DISTANCING): Elliot Forbes going the distance with his social.

72 FIT TO FOLLOW: Six of the best social sites to follow.

KNOW-HOW THE BARBER ROOM

74 KNOW YOUR PRICE: Establishing correct pricing for your services.

32 PALLET BARBERS: Simon Harvey’s pandemic pasttime project.

76 EXCLUSIVE WAHL STEP-BY-STEP: how to cut The Mode.

34 HOW DID YOU GET HERE?: Simon Shaw’s career journey.

78 STEP-BY-STEP: Alan Beak creates classic with a twist for the Amos Academy.

30 STRONGER TOGETHER: Wahl’s campaign to support barbers through the pandemic.

80 LISTING: MB’s services and supplier directory.

WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 3

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SAY HELLO TO MB’S NEW EDITOR

Stories on, in and about the industry…Share your thoughts with us @modernbarbermag

harlotte Grant-West has now joined as Modern Barber’s Editor and lead on all MB events including the Modern Barber Stages at Salon International, the Modern Barber Awards and BARBERFEST. Charlotte has a back story in men’s hair journalism and is already a proactive champion for the barber industry. You can share your stories, your ideas, your challenges, your tips, your pictures and even your pet peeves with Charlotte by dropping her an email on charlotte@modernbarber.co.uk or DM’ing on MB’s social pages.

NEW LIONS BARBER APP

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MARK THOMSON

A

RAISING FUNDS DURING LOCKDOWN

B

arber Mark Thomson (@themodbarber) used his passion for cycling to raise funds for a cause that had poignant relevance. Mark says “In September last year my 83 year old father in-law started to become forgetful and suddenly went downhill after he was hospitalised with a kidney infection. It was clear he was suffering from dementia and my mother-in-law who is also 83 could no longer care for him at home. We were then able to sort nursing home care and sheltered accommodation just before lockdown. So, when I saw a Facebook page mention the Cycle for Dementia ride I saw it as a chance to do something to help.” Mark rode 100 miles in a month to raise £100 which not only added funds for the cause but also gave him something constructive to focus on during lockdown. He even got a medal for it!

Well done Mark.

HEADS UP! DATES FOR THE DIARY 8TH- 13TH AUGUST: BARBERSRIDE ROUTE STOCKPORT, LLANELI, BOURNEMOUTH, LEIGH-ON-SEA, NORTHAMPTON, BAILDON. ROADSHOW OF BARBERING SEMINARS ALL IN AID OF MAKE-A-WISH. BARBERSRIDE.COM 10TH AUGUST – MODERN BARBER AWARDS ENTRY CLOSES.

4 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

10TH – 12TH OCTOBER: MODERN BARBER STAGE AT SALON INTERNATIONAL EXCEL. 11TH OCTOBER – MODERN BARBER AWARDS FINALS EVENT, LONDON. VENUE TBA.

brand new BarberTalk app which has been developed by mental health and suicide prevention charity The Lions Barber Collective and made by Where It’s App, Digital Agency, will be a new safe space for the hair industry.

The Lions Barber Collective train hair professionals how to RECOGNISE the signs that their clients may be struggling, ASK those difficult direct questions, LISTEN with empathy and without judgement and finally have the knowledge to HELP their clients find the HELP they need. However even the best therapists, counsellors and psychiatrists have their own therapists, counsellors and psychiatrists! The Lions Barber Collective founder Tom Chapman says “I’m lucky I have a good support network but not everyone has this and some barbers/hairdressers work alone.

We needed to provide a space for the hair pros to vent and they need a space in which they can talk if needed. This app could genuinely save lives and will most definitely help people.” The BarberTalk App has many features and has been a collaboration between many experts as well as links to signposting service, Hub of Hope and the 5 steps to Mental Well-being. There are also some unique features in the BarberTalk App like bespoke mindfulness tips for the hair industry and our Sleep Like a Lion meditation/hypnosis. The BarberTalk App is available now on the App Store and Google Play store.

FUTURE THINKING!

PROMOTED CONTENT

Now more than ever barbers and barbershop owners need technology that will support their growth and their business. Danny Robinson of Danny & Co has found just the thing.

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hen Danny Robinson was seeking a really robust system that would help run his two busy shops and make his life easier, he found Squire (getsquire.co.uk).

It wasn’t a tough decision when he saw what it could do.

Online booking, check.

Cashless payments, check.

Customer messaging, check.

Point-of-sale transactions, check.

Custom branded app, check.

Chair rent collection, check.

Commission payments, check.

Waitlist, check.

Stock inventory management, check.

Gift cards, check.

Loyalty schemes, check.

Team scheduling, check.

Instant reporting, check.

Danny says “Squire is so much more than a booking app. It’s a full barber management system. I can see the metrics of my business in detail at the touch of a button and whenever I want. You can see exactly where you are performing or not and there is total transparency on the finances because it connects straight to the bank. That avoids risk and protects my business.

The security is total because every barber that needs to access the till does so with a thumb print. It’s real peace of mind.”

In a post-pandemic world technology is helping make our way back to commercial success. Squire launched in 2015 in the USA and has a huge following in the barber community. Early UK fans include Champs and Taylor Taylor. The functionality is totally harmonised with the needs of a busy barbershop and will help with return-to-work plans that cover different pricing, hours, shift scheduling and the flow of customers

IMAGES: DANNY ROBINSON

through the shop. Danny says “The days of a cash business are soon going to be a thing of the past and I love the prepay option. It protects from no shows. The customer can cancel their appointment until six hours before their booking without losing their money. I choose to enforce that on Saturdays. You can also give regular clients that don’t show a yellow card and if they don’t show after that then they will be required to prepay.”

Squire offers three plans and even the most basic delivers a comprehensive small business management system but for the full bells and whistles go for the Titan Plan.

Danny hasn’t looked back. He says “Squire gives barbers and barber shop owners more time to focus on what matters most to them, their clients!”

DUE TO THE PANDEMIC SQUIRE IS OFFERING FREE SUBSCRIPTION UNTIL SEPTEMBER 30TH 2020.

WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 5

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THE MODERN BARBER AWARDS

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shine a light on your talents and successes

ovid-19 may have thrown our timing off but you are worth the wait. The Modern Barber Awards is still open for entry until AUGUST 10th and our stylish finals event will now take place on Sunday October 11th in London.

There are eight categories to choose from and you can showcase your commercial and creative success.

Get entering, get a ticket, get going… because the Modern Barber Awards is one night that’s ALL about you.

MODERN BARBER AWARDS CATEGORIES

BEST TEAM SPONSORED BY WAHL Many barbershops refer to themselves as a ‘barber family’. This category showcases the unbreakable bonds and the unified strength that together make a successful business that supports and delights a community and clientele.

BEST BUSINESS LEADER - Leadership qualities can manifest in the leaders of businesses both large and small. This category will celebrate the barbers with 6 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

vision, purpose, commitment, tenacity and commercial strength.

smartphone or camera and a will to win can enter their work.

BEST TRAINING - It all starts here! This

BEST PHOTOGRAPHIC ENTRY SPONSORED BY AMERICAN CREW - We are looking for the

category is about highlighting the training either of an Academy or a shop that best delivers superior standard skills into the hands of new and experienced barbers.

BEST SHOP INTERIOR SPONSORED BY TAKARA BELMONT - Handsome, fitfor-purpose, interesting and enjoyable. A category that celebrates the best in high impact barbershop interiors that customers don’t want to leave.

image that best captures the essence of the current industry. It needs to be an image that demonstrates technical barbering excellence but also inspires the Judges.

MODERN BARBER AWARDS FINALS SUNDAY OCTOBER 11TH. It’s the hot ticket to have and it’s yours for just £45!

BEST APPRENTICE - There’s some fantastic budding talent out there and our Judges want to hear about the learner that is on track for greatness and on fire for their industry.

BEST ALL-ROUND BARBER (PHOTOGRAPHIC) SPONSORED BY MVRCK BY MITCH - This category celebrates day-to-day brilliance from the shop floor. Any barber with a

BEST CLIENT EXPERIENCE - It takes dedication and passion to create the very best client experience and we want to hear from the shops that make every customer feel like a King.

THE MODERN BARBER AWARDS FINALS NIGHT Our Awards night will be held in London (Venue TBA) Sunday October 11th 7pm to midnight. Come and celebrate, come and support your peers but make sure you come! It’s an evening of music, refreshment and celebration and who knows…you may be the one to take home a trophy (you will definitely take home a goody bag!)

THE TRUE ORIGINAL BARBERING ICONS often imitated yet NEVER EQUALLED

www.takarahairdressing.co.uk

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DANNY ROBINSON

HAIRFORCE 1

EMMA RICHARDSON

SIOBHAN MORIARITY-JONES

TARIQ HOWES

NEAL TONER

WARREN FLYNN

KEVIN LUCHMUN

PADDY CORRIGAN

BARBERING INSPIRATION (IN REAL LIFE!) SAFETY GUIDELINES

It’s been way too long!! Get your much needed dose of barbering inspiration at the Modern Barber Stage at Salon International Excel 10-12th October.

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ith a few tweaks to preserve everyone’s safety, Salon International is ON and we can’t wait.

The Modern Barber stage will be buzzing with talent and after that pandemic pause everyone is raring to go. Make sure you go to https:// register.salonshow.co.uk/salon-2020-registeryour-interest and sign up so that you will be alerted when bookings open. Our hard working compère’s Edward Hemmings and Danny Robinson will be back, as two talented hair professionals in their own right, their insightful questions and brilliant summaries mean our audiences get even more out of every presentation. Here’s the list of talent announced so far…

SATURDAY OCTOBER 10TH 2020 • Danny Robinson and the Danny & Co Team 8 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

• Neal Toner and the JFH Social Team • Tariq Howes and the Avenue Male Grooming Team • Menspire

SUNDAY OCTOBER 11TH 2020 • Siobhan Moriarty-Jones & Emma Richardson of Cavalier Club Barbershop •A fro Specialists Hairforce 1 •K evin Luchmun •C harlie Cullen •P addy Corrigan and Warren Flynn of Chapter Education

MONDAY OCTOBER 12TH 2020 •W ez Jones and the Heartbreak Barber Club • J oe Mills •A lex Burt and the Teddy Edwards Cutting Rooms Follow FB @modernbarber and IG @modernbarbermag for updates.

• Timed entry to spread the flow of visitors – visitors will be asked to select a preferred entry time on registering.

• Smartphone entry tickets to cease queues – e-tickets will replace printed tickets with limited collections onsite.

• Online booking throughout to limit waiting – all tickets will be available to purchase, both before the event and whilst it is taking place.

• Strict sanitisation measures – intense cleaning of all areas of the venue and exhibition stands and features.

• Widespread availability of sanitisers.

• Longer opening times.

• Strict trade and professional only policy. No general public will be permitted; this to restrict numbers and ensure an enhanced environment for genuine industry professionals Guidelines subject to revision, please check before travelling salonshow.co.uk/site/covidpolicy

Join the uncommon community For 40 years John Paul Mitchell Systems has supported professionals like you.

We will continue to support our community, then, now and always.

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Developed by barbers in Los Angeles, MVRCK® is a complete line of trusted barbering products rooted in functionality and authenticity.

Designed to elevate the grooming experience in the barbershop and at home, MVRCK® embodies the art and tradition of barbering while supporting a man’s unconventional style and sense of community.

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Available exclusively from Salon Success - The Distributor of Choice To find out more visit salon-success.co.uk or call 0845 659 0011

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LOCKDOWN DIARIES

LEAH HAYDEN CASSIDY

In the strangest of times it’s tough to make sense of it all.

MB asked three barbers to diarise their lockdown experiences and share some snippets. How did your pandemic pause compare?

NOTES FROM LEAH HAYDEN CASSIDY @hayden_cassidy

29/03/2020 This week has been my first full week in lockdown. Due to health issues, ‘severe asthma’, I had to isolate myself as soon as the cases in London started to rise. My last day in a salon environment was the 19th of March. I woke up today full of uncertainty and unease about the whole situation. Conversations on FaceTime just don’t seem to compare to the feelings we get from face-to-face interaction. On the upside, this week I’ve been able to catch up on all the projects I had put aside. My schedule is always so busy that I never actually get time to think or plan my next move. The last four years have just seemed to be a constant jump from show to show, job to job, without ever slowing down. So, on that note, I’ve been able to focus a little on my next moves. I decided to take down an old mannequin head and start shooting tutorials. I’ve little equipment, and I’m definitely not the most technical, so my set up consists of my balcony (my studio ), a ladder (as a tripod), Brad (the mannequin/client) and my basic knowledge of iMovie. At one point, I looked up to find all my neighbours hanging out their windows recording me - obviously thinking I had gone crazy talking to a dolls head!

5/04/2020 It’s been a strange week. We’re still in isolation and although I’ve been keeping busy with projects, interviews, and social media, I don’t think I’m getting 10 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

any more used to being inside. I miss my clients and the barbershop so much. I’ve realised this week how much we take for granted the multitude of people we talk to, the numerous stories we hear and how much positive energy we get from communicating and helping people.

Andis asked me to hold a ‘Content Creation’ seminar on their Facebook live last Friday night. I really enjoyed it as it gave me something to prepare for and it almost felt like showcasing on stage again. I got the same nervousness just before I went live and the same high after I’d finished. It was great! Yesterday and today the sun has been shining.

I’m lucky that in our small flat in central London, we’re fortunate enough to have a balcony space. This little outdoor sanctuary has made everything a lot easier. It means on sunny days, like today, we can have a glass of wine in the evening and pretend like everything is normal. I definitely think, when all this is over, the world will be a different place. Hopefully it will be a better and more positive place filled with love and respect for each other and gratitude.

Here’s hoping!

19/04/2020 It’s been a month since isolation began.

This week has been a particularly good one. I’m so happy that I decided to continue my Instagram live chats.

They’re really breaking up the time and giving me something to look forward to.

This week I got to speak to Alan Beak, Zac Ramsey and Jody Taylor. I asked people who I really respect and admire and I’m so grateful that they were all

happy to get on board. The discussions have all been very different which has been lovely for me and made it more informative and interesting for people.

I’m going to continue to come up with projects to keep myself busy and I’m learning to take some time to rest and focus on myself. I’ve been doing yoga each morning, which is something I never thought I’d have the patience to do, and, I’m actually enjoying it!

#theOriginal

sales@rem.co.uk +44 1282 619977

The Voyager, conceived and designed in the UK by REM See the collection at rem.co.uk

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NOTES FROM DAMIAN DIABLO

LOCKDOWN PROJECT

@deediablo

WEEK 1 What a week, the sun has been shining and the local beaches are deserted... weird! Life feels calm and surreal, in a ‘28 Days Later’ kind of way. People are worrying about rents and mortgages but the way I see it we’re all in the same boat floating into strange waters. Might as well enjoy the downtime though, we all know as barbers we don’t get much of that. Experienced my first lockdown hangover this week after a ‘Zoom’ session online. Drinks and chats got REAL! At a time like this, I’m grateful for good friends and laughs though. My son has already started bouncing off the walls and we’ve already been to the beach most days for our ‘hour exercise’.

Definitely felt bizarre on a Saturday. Not cutting hair was luxurious in a day off kind of way but also I felt a bit lost.

DAMIAN DIABLO AND SON, MARS

‘Whiskey Tango Foxtrot’ (Matty Conrad’s podcast), interviewing Frank Rimer (Thy Barber). Frank’s a funny guy. Made me think back to drinking beers, and listening to hardcore punk at his place, and wondered when I’ll see him again.

WEEK 3 It started to sink in a little more that things are changing. I had a chat with my good friend Matt (Mr Robinson’s) he always gives great advice. Man, I miss working with him. That’s one guy that really cares, whether it’s about his staff or customers, the community is always at the heart of everything he does. It was great to catch up with him, our chat left me inspired about taking the next step, opening my own shop. Spent some time chatting to estate agents about potential premises, it’s awesome to have a focus whilst away from cutting. Cheers Matt!

WEEK 2 Week two started off feeling like the first week, until a couple of days in and my DM’s on Instagram went crazy. Clients messages started flooding in with requests for home cuts. It’s only been a week guys, surely your barnet’s can’t be that bad. Boredom got a grip on me and after seeing a couple of barbers online cut their own hair, I decided to give it a go. So around two hours later I was done. I’ve had worse cuts I reckon, the hardest bit was working out the angle of the clippers on the head. Listened to 12 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

WEEK 4 My son is thriving, and I feel guilty that I never had this much time with

DAMIAN AND BABY LUNA

him before. My daughter turned five months, she’s the happiest baby I’ve ever seen, always smiling. So happy to have an amazing wife and kids, although I keep sizing all three of them up to see what haircut I can try on them next.

Exciting news this week, found myself the premises for my very own shop.

I figure that the industry will be shut down until June at least, which gives me time to renovate it, (time to brush up on the DIY skills again)! I also registered the domain name, and set up a Limited Company, (not quite Alan Sugar status but hey!) They say everything happens for a reason, if it wasn’t for lockdown I wouldn’t have had the time to do this. So that’s a positive! Exciting times ahead.

IT’S ALL IN THE DETAIL

This professional skeleton trimmer has an extra wide Japanese steel t-blade with a zero-gap function for precision detailing and outlining.

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NOTES FROM CHERYL BROAD

@cheryl_atbondsbraodstone WEEK 2 I have found myself quickly becoming comfortable with the lack of forced routine and not knowing what day it is. I am reminded of when I sold my own business and had spine surgery, which saw me recovering for the best part of a year. The emotional impact of that was like a bereavement, in that everything I had ever known, stopped overnight. This week feels emotionally similar. I’ve rebooted my long-time chicken keeping hobby, simply because I find that focussing on something which has absolutely nothing to do with work, is incredibly good for my mental wellbeing. The fact chickens don’t judge the state of my appearance is an added bonus!

of customer service I was taught as an apprentice has been my armour against life’s traumas and I am lost without it.

WEEK 4 This week has been different in that we have started to become used to the lockdown situation. I am becoming more subdued and although I am able to meet my online commitments, at home I lack motivation. I believe that if I didn’t have animals to look after and family members living in the same house, I wouldn’t be doing much of anything at all. The only significant change is that we had a full-on family row about halloumi cheese! It didn’t last long, was talked through rationally and is now a joke, but it highlighted how fragile we are all becoming in this pressure cooker situation.

“I AM BECOMING MORE SUBDUED AND ALTHOUGH I AM ABLE TO MEET MY ONLINE COMMITMENTS, AT HOME I LACK MOTIVATION,” WEEK 6 The hot topic has been barbers illegally cutting hair at home. I have an anger towards them that won’t go away. I am ashamed that they are a part of the barbering industry because I find CHERYL BROAD’S LOCKDOWN ASSISTANT

WEEK 3 This week we lost a very dear family friend. He was a 53 year old frontline worker and father of three. So far, we are told it isn’t related to coronavirus but that isn’t verified yet. I am devastated!

He won’t get the funeral he deserves.

In my grief I find myself angry at the complacency of people travelling to exercise, visit beauty spots and gathering for parties with complete disregard for the rest of the world. Losing my friend with absolutely no distractions is a pain I am not familiar with, making me realise that the hardline self-discipline 14 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

CHERYL’S DAD

their behaviour incomprehensible! It’s a stupid, wilful act of disregard for this profession, our frontline workers and peoples’ lives. The very same people are standing outside and clapping for the NHS every week in a blatant act of hypocrisy.

WEEK 7 On Sunday I woke with the feeling I needed to see my Dad. He’s been on hard lockdown for eight weeks, we FaceTime regularly but it’s not the same as seeing someone face to face.

It was a ten-hour round trip of driving in one day but meant I could stand outside his home at a distance and speak to him for a short time. These times are precious indeed!

WEEK 8 Simple acts of kindness are making me more emotional than they normally would. I guess it’s because I’m having very few interactions with the outside world. Someone I’ve never met before (Ashley Parsons) posted me a grade 2 clipper attachment and it made my week! My government grant came through and although it’s very small, I wasn’t expecting anything, so I’m really happy! Our leading educators, have been releasing hundreds of hours of FREE tutorials & Carl Hinder gives FREE business seminars every week. These are the true hero’s of this industry right now!

FRANCHISE WITH MR. BARBERS what you get THE TIME FOR CHANGE IS now ■ Established brand and positioning

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LOCAL BARBERSHOP ABU DHABI, UAE There’s a whole world of barbering out there, so every issue we bring you a little international insight.

FACTOIDS OWNERS: Jasim Alkhouri, Zayed Alkhouri, Jack Brett OPENED: October 2018 STAFF: Four barbers plus 11 more staff for the coffeeshop, store and management.

CLIENTS: Everyone welcome.

Western ex-pat, local Emirati – all ages and cultures.

APPOINTMENTS OR WALK-IN SERVICE: Mostly appointments, walk-ins where they can.

PRICES: Cut is AED 155 (£35).

Beard is AED 85 (£18.50).

Combo is AED 210 (£45.00).

RANDOM: The barbershop has a coffee bar in front and a hidden sneaker store in the back.

MUST SEE: IG @_localuae_/ localco.ae

F E AT U R E

L

OCAL in Abu Dhabi, the capital of United Arab Emirates broke new ground when they opened their shop two years ago. LOCAL didn’t just deliver on skill and services, it brought together a community coffee shop and an edgy sneaker store too. Owners Jack Brett and brothers Jasim and Zayed Alkhouri have led the market in a fresh proposition that has created a devoted following. Jack says “As three founders, we are one Brit and two Emirati brothers who spent a lot of their life in Boston. We’ve known each other for almost 10 years and started the business because we missed our main interests and passions from back home – good coffee, sneakers and ofcourse a decent trim. We wanted to create and build these cultures here in Abu Dhabi.” The founders sourced advice and skills from the UK to make sure the barbershop reflected that dream.

“The barbershop team are all from the UK. Chrissy and Fazz are childhood friends and have been barbering together for over four years. They joined us from Black L’amour Barbers in Brighton, after being introduced to us through Paul Hewitt. In January 2019 our team grew with Alex and furthermore with Connor at the start of this year. Alex and Connor worked together at The Gentleman Barbers in Birmingham,” explains Jack.

The design of the shop is clean and professional with a dash of street culture.

LOCAL keeps their vibe relaxed but professional and welcomes everyone that steps through their doors as friends from the outset.

The initial idea for their café, shop and store came from a conversation nearly seven years ago and the founders began testing the market with pop-up barbers in January 2018. The process to bring their vision to light was nothing short of painful. “It was a constant battle of overcoming problems and challenges that kept being thrown our way due to the nature of the shop. We are the first concept store in Abu Dhabi and we were the only one that combines three businesses. Things like business licenses and approvals were not ready for such a concept at the time, so we had to kind of create solutions for them and be very convincing. Construction was also very 18 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

F E AT U R E

painful, but we got there in the end and the struggle we had to overcome has made us the business we are today. We started building a loyal following from the barbershop pop-ups and then when we finally got the doors open the reaction and support was amazing,” says Jack.

that positions LOCAL as unique in the market. Jack says “As British barbers in the UAE, we regularly experience challenges that come with being the first to break a long-standing cycle.

Whether it be our image or our techniques, building trust among some of our clients was difficult, as it was something they were not used to. We still regularly work with new clients who have been recommended but are hesitant, however overcoming that was a huge incentive to work in the UAE. Technically we are also regularly challenged in the UAE. Styles and finishes differ from the UK and we had to quickly adapt to our client’s requests. This has however greatly increased our skill base, both with our cutting and our customer service.”

“BARBERING IN THE UAE HAS LACKED THE ELEMENT OF CULTURE THAT HAS BOOMED IN THE LAST DECADE IN THE LIKES OF THE UK AND AMERICA.”

Barbering in the UAE has lacked the element of culture that has boomed in the last decade in the likes of the UK and America. Getting your haircut was more of a necessity than a luxury and speed and efficiency was a priority. There was also more of a salon driven culture for men rather than barbering. However, with so many of the population having travelled, there was a huge demand for a more premium barbering service, as well as the element of a good experience while getting your haircut. Many of LOCAL’s customers enjoy visiting the shop and experiencing the barbering culture that so many of them are used to and

The team at LOCAL are more than up for the challenge and are enjoying the impact that they are making on the market…so much so that shop number two is in the works!

WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 19

F E AT U R E

A CONSTANT STREAM Thanks to Covid-19 the entire globe has been caught in the world wide web. Without it our isolation would have been almost total. With it, we have the world at our fingertips.

A

ccess to online barber education isn’t new; forward thinking barbers have been using technology to share their skills for a while but the past few months have revealed online learning is having its moment in the sun. By the end of April 2020 there were 1.2 billion school children worldwide engaged in online education* and Microsoft Teams was recording 200 million daily meeting participants**. While there is no way to truly replace an in-person learning experience, online education is an incredible asset and will deliver value long after the pandemic is over. As necessity makes way for choice the richness and diversity of our online landscape means that there is no longer any excuse for not upskilling.

Here MB takes a look at some of those choices.

20 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

CHRIS FOSTER –

THE ULTIMATE DIGITAL HAIR ACADEMY EDUCATION.THEFOSSACADEMY.COM/P/ THE-ULTIMATE-DIGITAL-HAIR-ACADEMY FROM THE ELITE PROFILE ACADEMY WWW.ELITEPROFILEACADEMY.COM

Chris was an early adopter of online education with the Foss Academy App in 2011, the first UK barbering education app.

His latest digital offer, The Ultimate Digital Hair Academy from the Elite Profile Academy, is a 360⁰ approach to optimising every opportunity in a barber’s career. Chris says “The Ultimate Digital Academy coaches barbers to monetise their years of experience and convert that into a *World Economic Forum **theverge.com

LEARN FROM THE PRO! ALAN BEAK‘S ON-LINE COURSE WITH 20 % OFF Use to code: mbm

www.amos.academy SCAN NOW

F E AT U R E profitable digital course. They will go from feeling clueless and overwhelmed to feeling strategic and tech savvy. They will experience the joy of creating their own digital academy and marketing it to a global audience. This exposure will help them reach their ideal student and share their message with millions. Imagine the freedom of building an income that is not dependent upon working behind the chair. The whole course is centred around a community that is working together, The Elite Profile Academy Tribe and there is a large support network via Zoom interactive classes, Facebook live sessions, and a supportive Facebook group. It means that they can work together to limit the overwhelm and instead create

a wealth of knowledge to tackle and conquer the technology learning curve. The first module is free for all Modern Barber readers!” Yes you read that right, the first module is FREE to Modern Barber readers and over the following modules students can break through the frustrations and the overwhelm that comes with the process of building a digital academy. Chris will share the step-by-step methods of validating a course, finding the ideal students, marketing to an audience and allow participants to have the financial freedom that comes with selling their own information product, knowing that this product can be sold time and time again, cementing their creative legacy.

MENSPIRE ONLINE ACADEMY MENSPIRE.CO.UK/PAGES/ONLINE-EDUCATION Menspire has a devoted following worldwide, so it makes sense for them to create an instant access platform to share their skills. Josh Lamonaca says “We listened closely to our students needs to come to realise our reason WHY we had a desire to publish our content online. We understood that not everyone can travel to the U.K to learn and that we can’t be in multiple countries at once. So we needed a solution. We want our methods and principles to be shared with the world and what better way to do it by using our high-tech equipment filmed by our in-house professional videographer at the MENSPIRE Studios. We have designed a wide variety of online courses that will fulfil the needs of anyone looking to gain further in-depth knowledge across the spectrum. Our content is filmed in a five meter-wide, pure white infinity cove with 4K recording quality giving you premium quality visual education.

Each week we release a new video direct from our website, along with downloadable head diagrams for your theoretical reference. After completion of each category, you will be awarded certification for your continued professional development.” There is a really broad range of content available on the Menspire platform from straight lectures on fashion and hair history to a range of classic foundation cuts, through salon friendly, salon creative and more avant garde work. Learners can purchase single videos or sign up for a membership subscription such as the monthly program at £14.99.

22 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

F E AT U R E

AMOS ACADEMY AMOS.ACADEMY You couldn’t want for a more beautifully shot collection of tutorials than these with Alan Beak of Ruger for Amos Academy. The founder spotted Alan on stage at BarberCon in NYC and knew he had found a great creative partner in Alan.

The tutorials are detailed, clear and comprehensive and can be watched over and over at the learner’s own pace on any device. The sign-up fee of $199 gives lifetime access to all the content and there are 16 lessons in the series on four haircuts plus bonus footage. The content is focussed on Substance vs Structure and is designed to take the fear out of cutting, motivate the learner and build skill on a strong foundation.

Alan has combined all aspects of cutting hair to create his own unique formulas that have been taught in his travels across

the world. His approach and descriptions make the lessons accessible and digestible and every technique and learning point provides a shop friendly approach. Alan says “In this case the course was directed at people that were beginner to advanced. For years I over complicated certain aspects of cutting hair, until I watched some of my peers who had the same outcome by using a more simple input.

So, for new beginners it’s a solid foundation, through to intermediate cutters and hopefully reaching more advanced through a more direct approach.” Alan’s experience as a shop owner, businessman and busy barber puts every lesson into practical context. It’s not just about cutting either, Alan covers how to communicate with your clients – from consultation through haircut breakdown to giving them useful advice, how to develop good barber habits and how to handle social media and customer service. Feast your eyes!

ALAN BEAK FOR AMOS ACADEMY

24 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

F E AT U R E

BY KEVIN LUCHMUN KEVINLUCHMUN.COM/SHOP/TUTORIAL-VIDEOS/ Kevin draws on his broad experience in fashion, photography, barbering, men’s hairdressing and international education to create a series of contemporary video tutorials along with a live web tutorial series where learners can interact directly and in real time. Each tutorial cut video is accompanied with an explanation of the inspiration behind each distinctive style, clear and easy to follow step-by-steps and technical head sheets. The work is contemporary classic and underpinned by strong technique, all delivered with Kevin’s trademark passion and eye for detail. Each video tutorial costs £20 and access to the Facebook webinars can also be found on the platform.

KEVLIN LUCHMUN

PODCASTS Let’s not forget the PODCAST another easy access source of great barbering inspiration.

Alan Beak recently launched BarberSoup after years of consuming inspirational content online. He says “The only ‘aholic’ I am these days is a ‘learnaholic’ and I find education in anything that is informative. I’ve changed what I watch, listen to, and scroll. Podcasts are great, especially when you can resonate with the host. I feel like I am at a point in my life where the techniques and methods I was using for self-development were working. I’ve always had this notion that good things will come if I manage to take two steps forward, to reach back and bring someone along with me. So BarberSoup was my sharing podcast, things that have worked for me, that would hopefully in turn help other people. Plus,

26 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

I’m always keen to push myself and step out of my comfort zone, I’m a complete technophobe and it was really difficult to get to grips with it but there was a great feeling of accomplishment even finishing episode one! The response I’ve had has been tremendous, truly I’ve been humbled by the amount of people that it has helped, even being honest about past addictions has struck up conversations with people who are on the same destructive path which has allowed me to give advice on how to break the bad habits and create new, good ones.” BarberSoup is all about moving forward, staying motivated and progressing in life and covers everything from setting goals to tools and strategies for ‘getting shit done’ which is also the title of Episode 4.

Find it in iTunes. .

F E AT U R E

INSIDE BARBER ROOM 1C WARWICKSHIRE SHOPPING PARK KYNNER WAY COVENTRY CV3 2SB 28 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

Barbershops make the best handsome hair destinations and the ultimate hub to welcome customers old and new.

MB takes a look inside…

F E AT U R E

O

WNER: Greg Bloor SOCIAL: IG @barberroom/ FB @ barberroomcoventry/ barberroom.co.uk OPENED: 2013. Refurbished during lockdown.

BUDGET: £20k, 80% of the budget on the materials. Biggest expense was on the new floor and ceiling.

BUILD: The planned refurbishment unfortunately took place during the pandemic. Greg’s biggest challenges was understandably getting labour and as a result he did most of the work himself.

Greg’s second biggest challenge was getting materials. “Some things we just could not get our hands on, like for example, the new light feature. That was quite worrying at the time but turned out to be a blessing in disguise as we had to create our own bespoke features which gave it a more personalised feel in the end.” Greg also had to embrace new Covid measures such as practicality for easy sanitising and maintenance and inclusion of UV light sanitisation.

BRIEF: Greg hates sterile white bright spaces that wash out the client. He wanted to create an atmospheric space where customers want to stay and linger. The dark walls and furniture are offset with lighting that creates drama and excitement.

WHAT’S UNIQUE: The antique piano workstation and the half moon table sections which are genuine antiques that date back to 1887.

ALL IMAGES CHRISTOPHER JONES @__CHRISTOPHER

IMAGES: MATT ROBERTSON WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 29

F E AT U R E

THE SHUTDOWN SURVEY

MB pushed out a confidential survey on social media through the months of April and May. Big thanks to the 273 barbers that gave us their thoughts. No-one knew how to pull off a pandemic pause before March, so everyone has been in uncharted territory. While barbers have been among the last to return, MB has been blown away by the many ways in which you’ve stayed resilient and supported one another. Here’s our summary of the results…how does your experience compare?

77%

Frustrated

Rested

Inspired

Afraid

12% – CONFUSED

15% – AFRAID

15% – INSPIRED

25% – RESTED

ONLY 24% OF RESPONDENTS FELT THAT INDUSTRY GUIDANCE HAS BEEN AS CLEAR AS POSSIBLE.

HOW HAVE YOU FELT DURING LOCKDOWN? 33% – FRUSTRATED

57%

OF RESPONDENTS SAID THEY ARE DEFINITELY OR MOST LIKELY GOING TO INCREASE PRICES.

Confused

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OF RESPONDENTS WERE NOT FURLOUGHED.

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23/04/2020 14:23

F E AT U R E

PALLET BARBERS A pandemic pastime project

SIMON HARVEY

S

imon Harvey @mrsimonharvey of RebelRebel in Glasgow is always making something – sky high pomps, perfectly sculpted side parts and hundreds of innovative art projects with his daughter Tilda (5) and stepdaughter Eva (7). He could potentially be the ideal lockdown Dad! His Pallet Barbers project was a winner with the kids. “I do like a bit of wood, as I was a joiner before I started barbering. For those who know me they know that I always need to make stuff and keep busy otherwise I eat my body weight in Maryland cookies and chilli peanuts. When the lock down started it was a shock to the system having so much free time and I was starting to get restless. During a socially distanced chat with my neighbour, she began telling me about her beautiful DIY bench that she made out of old pallets. This inspired me to go hunting for the elusive wild pallet in the outback of Ayrshire to see what I could make. After three days tracking I discovered a herd of pallets hiding behind Iceland supermarket. After making a little garden bench out of my kill, I caught palletosis. I was able to source 10 pallets from a friend and I started to play about with visualizing how I was going to use them. I started to build a basic structure which gave me the idea of creating a little play house for the girls. As the house grew I started posting the development on Instagram and my friend and a fellow Layrite Band of Barber brother, Roland Andrade, suggested that I make a barber pole for it. That night I redirected my R&D department to focus all their attention and resources on making a barber pole.

After liaising with the SpaceX design team, we discovered a coke bottle made the ideal shape and a remote-control car engine motor made the ideal twirly whirly mechanism. Tilda loved watching its development and project managed it with me. We had the occasional creative dispute over the longterm future of the building whilst onsite and that is why it’s currently a supermarket AND barbershop as opposed to just the latter. I’ve now exhausted all the local pallet wildlife they are sadly now on the endangered species list!”

Simon’s already on to his next project which involves three wheels a petrol engine and a lot of blind faith…what could possibly go wrong?

32 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

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F E AT U R E

HOW DID YOU GET HERE? Simon Shaw is Global Artistic Director of Wahl.

He’s at the top of the game but MB wanted to discover the journey that took him there.

M

B: WHY DID YOU CHOOSE A CAREER IN HAIR? SS: I was on a YTS football training scheme. I did well with Barnsley and Huddersfield youth teams but at some point I realised I just wasn’t good enough.

It took a long time for me to admit those words. I’d had a Saturday job in a Unisex Salon and I liked the environment. I was interested in hair and fashion, it was the mid-eighties and I had a mullet. I thought, well if I’m not going into football then I’d give it a go. I wasn’t particularly creative, I wasn’t good at art but I loved the people. It was the days of men having perms and colour and the salons were busy. It was almost a social decision.

34 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

MB: DESCRIBE YOUR CAREER JOURNEY. SS: I started with Dimensions on Valentine’s Day 1985, which was a really well known group with an Academy and I joined as an apprentice. I loved it. The salon was so busy. I was neutralising 30 perms a day! In those days the manager ruled with a rod of iron. There was real discipline and a lot of respect and beneath all of that there was a band of fear. It worked because it set me in good stead. Initially I didn’t have the speed in my work to make it on the floor and the other apprentices were lapping me. I made a conscious decision to knuckle down, suck it up and be the best I could be. Being part of a group of salons meant that I could work in different towns, it was like playing away games. You could learn your mistakes and then shine on your own turf. I got married at 20 to the owner’s daughter and worked at Dimensions until 2008.

In the intervening years I started doing shows and shoots.

Being on stage felt natural to me. The first big show I did was at Barnsley College. I went all in and had a shirt made for it. It was a sell out and had great reviews. I remember coming off

F E AT U R E the stage and thinking two things…I can do better and I don’t want to be part of a team, I want to lead the team. I started managing salons young. I was good at motivating people and I could take a run down salon and turn it around in 18 months.

It was all about focus and really getting your head in the game.

MB: WHAT OPPORTUNITIES WERE STEP CHANGES FOR YOU? SS: That show in Barnsley was the start of many shows and I started working at Salon International. At 20 I did a Bond themed shoot and I got my first of four front covers of the Hairdressers Journal.

Those things gave me huge motivation to push myself. It was the start of everything. I started working with Goldwell and got spots at Salon International. I was using Wahl clippers on stage in 1999 and they got in touch with me to ask me to do some work for them. At that time Wahl was quite small in the UK. They liked my energy on stage and really that’s how the relationship began.

MB: HOW DID YOU GET YOUR POSITION AT WAHL? SS: In 2000 I was offered a three day a week contract with Wahl. It was a big offer. I’m just a welders lad from Barnsley and this global company wanted me to work with them.

It was huge. I eventually went full time at Wahl and left Dimensions in 2008. Over time I won the hairdressing market over and then we brought it home to barbers. Wahl ruled the roost for years, so it’s been great over the last six years to have healthy competition. Everyone needs a good competitor and I relish it because every time they step up it pushes me and my team to step up and keeps us moving forward.

MB: HOW DO YOU PLAN YOUR CAREER? SS: It’s more about goal planning for business and personal rather than career planning. Every year I set goals. This year one of my goals is to spend 15 minutes learning something new every single day.

MB: YOU’VE HAD A LONG CAREER, WHAT WISDOM CAN YOU OFFER? SS: Be true to yourself. It’s a cliché but it is important. Find your level, don’t punch above your weight until you are ready to move forward. So many barbers try and overstep their talent. Don’t try and jump the rungs. Max at your current level then step into growth.

“BEING ON STAGE FELT NATURAL TO ME. THE FIRST BIG SHOW I DID WAS AT BARNSLEY COLLEGE. I WENT ALL IN AND HAD A SHIRT MADE FOR IT. IT WAS A SELL OUT AND HAD GREAT REVIEWS.”

@simonshawwahl

FOOTBALL YOUTH TRAINING SCHEME

EARLY DAYS ON THE SALON FLOOR

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F E AT U R E

E

STRONGER TOGETHER! It’s been a tough few months for barbers and WAHL wanted to do their bit to support the industry through the crisis.

arlier this year Wahl launched ‘The Barber Project’, a monthly initiative where barbers could win rewards and share their daily experiences of the UK barber industry.

When Covid crashed our regular lives and brought the industry to a halt, Wahl reframed for the situation.

STRONGER TOGETHER has been their lockdown mantra with a gift bundle and an opportunity for barbers to talk about the ways in which they are using lockdown to create a stronger comeback. Marketing Manager Chris Barleycorn says “Barbers are a vibrant slice of Britain’s small businesses and Wahl wanted to celebrate them. The sense of community shown in our industry during this crisis has been extraordinary and we know that this same sense of purpose will help barbers come back stronger.

Stronger Together has been an initiative to collect their stories, raise money for charity and deliver benefits to barbers.” Wahl donated £1 to the Hair & Beauty Charity for every story received, gave out gift vouchers and entered every storyteller into a prize draw to win one of 100 clippers.

Thank you to all the barbers that entered and here is just a handful of your stories.

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@KYLEBIGWOODBARBER I’m spending my time reflecting and resting. I think as barbers and hairdressers we are constantly on the go. I feel this has made me realise what matters in life, such as mental health and resting our bodies and minds. Our job is hard and sometimes it can really take it out of us.

@CLIPPERSTONE_ I’m enjoying the break, mentally. Barbers are so hard on themselves striving for perfection. This lockdown has taught me to appreciate my own work and not to be so hard on myself. Clean your tools, buy new kit and get ready to fix all these dodgy buzz cuts!

@DANNY_WH1TE I’m taking this as an opportunity to better myself in all aspects of work and fitness, running longer distances regularly and practicing cutting on family and training dolls. See this as a chance to better yourself and learn new skills.

@CAITRHIBARBER As a trainee who lets nerves get the better at the start, I say ‘never again’! Can’t wait to be able to say barbering is my job! Missing being in the shop and working on my skills!

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O N L I N E

F E AT U R E

SKNHEAD HEADSHOT ULTIMATE VOLUME AND TEXTURE DUST

MVRCK GROOMING CREAM

BY PAUL MITCHELL Smooth cream that creates laid-back looks with natural shine. Infused with shea butter for soft texture and undone style. Cruelty free. 150ml. RRP £14.95. salon-success.co.uk

Sknhead quality in a larger size of 20g. RRP £19.50. sknhead.com. Trade accounts welcome. www.sknhead.com/products/headshot

WAHL FINALE SPECIAL EDITION CORDLESS MAGIC CLIP Heavy duty fading clipper with full aluminium metal housing for precision and control. £129.99 ex VAT. More info at wahl.co.uk.

GEAR

ANDIS HAIR GRIPPER

Gives great hold to enhance cut precision for every technical cut. 2-piece Hair Gripper. Reusable and easy to clean.

Price: £7.95. www.andis.com Call SPUK on 01635 279 824 for your nearest stockist

SUNUV S2 UV STERILIZER

Kills 99.9% of virus and bacteria.

Automatic switch off. Three-minute sterilization process. Security sensor. USB connector. Energy saving function. 1 year warranty. Size 216x105x70mm Price £79.00 ex VAT. salondirectgroup.co.uk.

TAKARA BELMONT HOT CABI The ultimate companion for traditional shaving services. A highly efficient towel warmer with ultra-violet sterilisation, a removable basket and drain tray.

Price £560. takarahairdressing.co.uk

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NEW

BACK TO BUSINESS WITH THE NHBF Information Inspiration.

Join us today!

www.nhbf.co.uk

F E AT U R E

ARTERO MYSTERY SCISSOR Durable Japanese hard steel 7” scissor with convex blade, offset handle, fixed finger rest and gunmetal finish with skull design. Smooth cutting action.

Price £164.45 ex VAT. artero.co.uk

NEW

NEW DENMAN HEROSHIELD VISOR

The HeroShield comes flat-packed. The easy to assemble HeroShield offers you instant, cost effective and trustworthy protection to you, your staff and your clients. Packs of five. Price £25.00.

5% of all sales generated by the Hero Shield are donated to the Hero Shield’s charity which will supply free shields and other PPE to the most vulnerable frontline workers.

Heroshield.net/denmanbrush.com

CAPE GANG

Tiger leaf print lightweight, water resistant gown. Stretch lycra neck, popper fastening.

Oversized and longer at the back. RRP £30.

Capegang.bigcartel.com

HAIR JKT Don’t gown them. Clothe them. The Hair JCKT is the premium, high quality, durable and practical, the Hair JCKT is the perfect enhancement to the haircutting experience.

RRP £79.99. hairjkt.co.uk

Digitally controlled cutting heights from 1-4, 5 speed function, ceramic blade, digital display showing speed, usage time, battery level, usage time and oil status. The only clipper with TWO motors. Lasting Li-Ion battery. Cord/cordless.

Charging stand.

Price: £128.01 ex VAT. Artero.co.uk

MORGAN’S FINISHING FUDGE

BENNY’S OF LONDON POMEGRANATE NOIR SHAVING CREAM

Bestselling 100% vegan friendly shaving cream.

Hydrates and rejuvenates. Leaves skin feeling fresh and smooth. Made in the UK. 150ml. RRP £12.95. bennysoflondon.com

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ARTERO SPEKTRA DIGITAL CLIPPER

A light hold styling cream to add moisture and definition to your style for subtle control and natural movement. Signature scent. Weightless and easy to wash out. Made in the UK. 75ml travel size. RRP £8.00. morganspomade.co.uk

CALLING OUT TO ALL

NIES, A P M O C T C U D O R P , WHOLESALERS BARBERS & HAIRDRESSERS!

PLEASE CAN YOU HELP? I’m looking ANY donations no matter how big or small, to help my amazing cause.

I am sending out over 200 gift boxes a day as a thank you to help lift the spirits of each and every NHS worker, so your donations mean EVERYTHING! Let’s show our NHS how much we care.

CONTACT

adee_phelan_5 adee@sknhead.com

D e d i c at e d to h e l p i n g yo u l e a r n • UK’s leading barbering training academy • Apprentice ship training • NVQ Level 2, 3 and 4 Barbering Qualifications • Be spoke private training • In-salon training • Intensive c ourse s • One day c ourse s • New c ollege partnership Programme W W W. M I K E TA Y L O R E D U C A T I O N .C O M I N F O @ M I K E TA Y L O R E D U C A T I O N .C O M @ M I K E TA Y L O R E D U C A T I O N

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH

CUT: THE MODE

P O R T F O L I O

CUT R TO L: THE MODE, THE TEARDROP, THE LLOYD

P U R E

W A H L

H A IR : S A M C A M PAG N A @ SAM _ C AM PAG N A @ WAH LPR O U K A RT D I R EC TI O N : SI M O N SH AW PH O TO G R APH Y: AYO B AN TO N STYLI N G : N AN A O M AKE- U P: EB U N AB ATAN

CUTS R TO L: THE LLOYD, THE MODE

CUT: THE TEARDROP

P A U L

H A R R I S O N

HA IR: PAUL HARRISON @PAU L H A R R IS O N _ _ P HOTOG RAPHY: L EE SMYT H @L E E _ S MY T H _

J O S H

HAIR : JOSH GROCUT T AT B A R B E R B A R B E R @J O S H _ G R O C U T T 11 PHOT OGRAPHY: ROB HU N T E R @R O B H U N T E R P H O T O G R A P H Y

G R O C U T T

S A MU E L HU T C HI S O N

D A N I E L

R Y M E R

FR AN C ESC A KI N G & LAU R EN SPI LLER

LAU R EN SPI LLER

H AI R : D AN I EL RYM ER TEAM @ D AN I EL RYMERHAI R PH O TO G R APH Y: LEL B U R N ETT @L EL BURNET T

F R AN C ESC A KI N G

D A NI E L RY M E R

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H AI R : D AN I EL RYM ER TEAM @ D AN I EL RYMERHAI R PH O TO G R APH Y: LEL B U R N ETT @L EL BURNET T

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H AI R : EQ U I N O X TEAM @ EQ U I N O XG EN TLEM ENSREF I NERY PH O TO G R APH Y: R O B FRY @ ROBF RYPHOT O

SAM BEALE

C L A IR E H E E NA N

MI A RI LEY

COMMUNITY

THE 10 MINUTE CHAT NEAL TONER @THE_SALON_COACH

Barbershop owner Neal Toner has overcome dark times and found a fresh approach to life that makes succeeding and thriving unavoidable. MB caught Neal between CrossFit sessions and goal planning to find out more.

M

B: TELL ME A BIT ABOUT YOUR BACKGROUND… NT: I started barbering 11 years ago in a small seaside town in County Down Ireland. This was before barbering was hip or cool. Cutting hair came naturally to me. I worked in a really traditional shop but saw an opening for something for the young crowd. I’m very lucky that my dad is an entrepreneur, so when I wanted to start my own business, he was very

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supportive. I was quite confident that I could make it work and it became successful very fast. JFH Social has a shop here in Newcastle and one in Belfast. We are constantly fully booked.

MB: HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR PERSONAL DEVELOPMENT JOURNEY? NT: It began with a moment of enlightenment. I started my business young, 22 years old. I loved cutting hair but all of a sudden I was running a really busy shop and had to become a businessman. I started to struggle with anxiety and then I started having panic attacks about 10am every Saturday morning when the shop was rammed. It felt like I was being hugged by a large man and I couldn’t breathe.

So one Saturday I couldn’t cope and I called my Aunt Deirdre Maguire, who is a top Life Coach. She came straight to the shop and gave me five minutes of EFT which is a treatment that works with pressure points on the body. I can only describe it as an out of body experience. I felt the

COMMUNITY

TRAINING WITH @INFECTED_LIFESTYLE

pressure just fall away. It made me incredibly curious and I then started working with Deirdre over time to uncover the root causes and heal any past trauma. In short as we experience life we start to tell ourselves a story and create a belief system about ourselves.

I didn’t pass my 11 plus and I began to tell myself a story of failure. Clearing out the old script meant that I could come to a place of peace and build a new vision of my future. I practice mindfulness meditation which teaches you to simply be present.

This works so well in the barbershop because when I am with a client, I am with them 100%. I bring each client the best version of myself I can. I am so fortunate that for the last five years I have travelled extensively in the UK to educate, I’ve shared skills with over 20,000 people and they mostly have the same problem. A lack of vision and a lack of peace. It might seem woo woo but those two things equal success. I have now set up a business owners mastermind group to help coach people. I want to help them lead a team with authority, create freedom and health and a scalable business.

or ritual to optimise your performance then someone or something is going to give you a plan. I do Crossfit training and take care of my nutrition but one of the main things is finding out your ‘why’. Young barbers look to their idols and heroes and think they want what those people have but they don’t think about the ‘why’. The other behaviour I recommend is putting the social media aside and staying away from negative news…it saps your energy and brings your serotonin and oxytocin levels down.

“WE TELL OURSELVES A STORY AND CREATE A BELIEF SYSTEM ABOUT OURSELVES. I DIDN’T PASS MY 11 PLUS AND I BEGAN TO TELL MYSELF A STORY OF FAILURE. CLEARING OUT THE OLD SCRIPT MEANT THAT I COULD COME TO A PLACE OF PEACE AND BUILD A NEW VISION OF MY FUTURE. “

MB: WHAT ARE THE THREE KEY BEHAVIOURS THAT HAVE MADE THE GREATEST CHANGE FOR YOU IN THE LAST FEW YEARS? NT: My daily success habits…if you don’t have a daily plan

MB: WHAT DO YOU THINK A BARBER’S BIGGEST CHALLENGE IS? NT: Getting clarity on their OWN GOALS. This has been huge for me and my team in the last six months. I encourage them to ask themselves questions about their goal such as ‘How will I feel when I achieve it?’ Then afterwards they need to consider how the feeling matched up to the reality.

MB: WHAT ARE YOUR PLANS FOR THE FUTURE? NT: Developing my two shops and launching my business and life coach platform in July. The lockdown has been a gift for me as I have had the time to work on providing real structured help that will make a difference.

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ON BRAND! PROMOTED CONTENT

The sweet spot for many ambitious barbers is being selected to work with an international brand.

ANDIS has a team of Global Educators that share the clipper love worldwide. Three barbers from their team talk about what it takes to bring UK barbering to the world with ANDIS.

SID SOTTUNG @SIDSOTTUNGHAIR

BALDY @BALDYSBARBERS Baldy has been an Andis Global Educator for six years and now leads the teams across Europe. “Being in this role with Andis gives me the support and a sense of belonging. It’s a fantastic platform for me to share knowledge and experience with others,” says Baldy. His work with Andis has taken him through many countries including India, Thailand and Russia but it’s the very first show on home turf that is his fondest memory. Baldy’s favourite tools are the Andis Master® Cordless, Andis Slimline Pro Li and Andis Cordless USPro Fade Li Andis Nation with a fade blade on it. Baldy says “The Andis Slimline Pro Li is the best trimmer I’ve ever used hands down and I love the freedom of cordless.”

Sid has been an Andis Global Educator for three years.

Sid says “Being an Andis Educator is a life-long dream come true for me. It means I can deliver a better understanding of the Andis tools and cutting techniques to my Academy students and to audiences throughout the world. I also test the new equipment at least a year beforehand, so it’s such a pleasure to see the final result hit the market.” A special highlight for Sid was when ANDIS USA asked him to shoot a Pompadour Video Tutorial for the brand’s online education resources. It went so well that Sid is shooting two more videos to be launched later in the year. Sid’s top tools are Andis Supra ZR® II, the Andis Master® Cordless and the Andis Cordless T-Outliner, he says “The Andis Supra ZR II is an amazing clipper with a detachable blade that gives the cleanest fades and removes bulk effortlessly. The Andis Master Cordless reminds me of my youth when I was trained with the corded version. The weight of it fits perfectly in my hand. You can easily put a fade or Phat blade on it to modify. It’s an essential part of my toolkit.

One of my favourite trimmers from Andis is the Andis Cordless T-Outliner, it has a wider blade which makes it easier when cutting bald fades or the crisp line up around the hairline. It can be zero gapped too.”

QUALITIES NEEDED TO BE A GLOBAL BRAND EDUCATOR PASSION ENTHUSIASM KNOWLEDGE 64 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

ABILITY TO ENGAGE AND ENTERTAIN MOTIVATED ORGANISED

PATIENT HARDWORKING GREAT TIME MANAGEMENT

HUMILITY HUNGRY TO LEARN…ALWAYS!

PROMOTED CONTENT

HAYDEN CASSIDY @HAYDEN_CASSIDY Hayden has been an Andis Global Educator for two years. It wasn’t a difficult decision when she was offered the role. Hayden says “Being a part of a team that cares so much about the quality of tools is incredible. Also, having opportunities to travel the world and educate for the brand is something I only dreamed about at the start of my career. It really has been a dream come true.”

Hayden’s top memory so far is working at CosmoProf in Bologna, Italy, which is the biggest hair trade show in the world and taking the stage with fellow educator Baldy to showcase to a huge crowd. Hayden’s top tool is the Andis Master Cordless, Andis T-Outliner and the Andis Slimline Pro Li. Hayden says “I love how powerful and smooth the Andis Master Cordless and Andis Cordless T-Outliner are and the Andis Slimline Pro Li was my first Andis Tool and is still one of favourite trimmers.”

THE ANDIS GLOBAL EDUCATOR TEAM’S PERFECT SET-UP

ANDIS MASTER® CORDLESS

ANDIS CORDLESS T-OUTLINER

ANDIS SUPRA ZR® II

ALUMINIUM CASING. ADJUSTABLE BLADE. CONSTANT SPEED TECHNOLOGY. HIGH SPEED ROTARY MOTOR. 90 MINUTES OF RUN TIME.

100 MINUTES RUN TIME. HIGH SPEED ROTARY MOTOR. CONSTANT SPEED TECHNOLOGY. CLOSE-CUTTING, CARBON-STEEL T-BLADE.

POWERFUL DETACHABLE BLADE CLIPPER. 5-SPEEDS: 1,800-3,800 SPM. 150 MINUTE RUN TIME. REMOVABLE LITHIUM-ION BATTERY.

ANDIS PROALLOY® FADE HIGH SPEED MAGNETIC MOTOR. COOL RUNNING WITH XTR TECHNOLOGY® (EXTREME TEMPERATURE REDUCTION).

ERGONOMICALLY DESIGNED. 5 ATTACHMENT COMBS.

ANDIS CORDLESS USPRO FADE LI ANDIS NATION 120 MINUTES RUN TIME. CARBON STEEL FADE BLADE. ADJUSTABLE BETWEEN #00000 AND #000.

5 ATTACHMENT COMBS. ERGONOMICALLY DESIGNED.

ANDIS SLIMLINE PRO LI UP TO 120 MINUTES RUN TIME. LITHIUM-ION BATTERY. ROTARY MOTOR. LIGHTWEIGHT. CAN BE ZERO GAPPED.

ANDIS PROFOIL® LITHIUM PLUS TITANIUM FOIL SHAVER HYPOALLERGENIC FOIL. STAGGERED HEAD BLADES. 80 MINUTES RUN TIME. LIGHTWEIGHT. WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 65

COMMUNITY

NEW WORLD, NEW YOU

I

t’s day 70 of the lockdown as I write my column and this has got to be the most difficult one yet! No travel, no seminars, no exhibitions and no pubs, could it be any worse? Seriously though, I hope that you are all staying safe and that your families are in good health.

This lockdown has been challenging, I have serious cabin fever now and lost count of the amount of times my girlfriend and I have split up over this time!

The biggest change has been adapting to a new way of working, with my day now consisting of online meetings with various interviews and podcasts too. The change has been good too, as I have been co-hosting the Barber Arms every Friday night. I’ve enjoyed chatting with our guests and getting an insight into the impact of Covid-19 across all parts of the industry. The best thing though is knowing that you guys are enjoying it too, with well over 80,000 views.

I think the key lesson from the past few months would be to adapt to your new surroundings so that when you get back to work the new world has a new you, ready to tackle any challenge that comes your way.

Keep safe, do the right thing and together we will emerge from this stronger.

THE SHAW SHOUTOUT NIC NICASSO THIS GUY IS DOING SOME GREAT WORK RIGHT NOW, INCLUDING SCALP MICROPIGMENTATION. FIND HIM ON @NICASSO.LONDON

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COMMUNITY

The SHAW Share THIS IS YOUR CHANCE TO MAKE THAT FRESH START YOU’VE ALWAYS WANTED. SEE THE ENFORCED CHANGES YOU NEED TO MAKE AS AN OPPORTUNITY TO CHANGE OTHER THINGS THAT YOU JUST HAVEN’T HAD THE TIME TO DO.

TOOL CHOICE with SAM CAMPAGNA The crop fade hairstyle is essentially made up of five sections, each requiring a different tool to get the best result.

BULK REMOVAL - Using the Super Taper ensures that the bulk is removed effectively, providing a platform to start the fade.

WHAT’S NEXT

FADE – The Magic Clip Cordless has a specially designed blade to crunch out stubborn lines and helps create a more feathered transition in the fade.

hilst there is huge uncertainty over what is next for our industry, now is the chance to restart your careers, make sure you leave nothing to chance.

TEXTURE & TRANSITION - The Chrom2Style is my choice for the transition due to its waterproof body and microchip technology.

This allows you to get through the

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thicker damp hair when transitioning to the top. I also use this clipper for finger-over-clipper, adding texture by swapping the blade to an All-in-One blade.

LINING UP - I use the Cordless Detailer to create the sharp edges round the hairline.

While the wider blade and the manoeuvrability of the cordless trimmer helps when strengthening the corners of the fringe.

FINISHING - The Finale is always my choice of finishing tool when getting super close. This tool helps to create the perfect transition to skin as well as substituting the razor for the removal of small hairs left behind.

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COMMUNITY MIKE TAYLOR

When lockdown happened I quickly had to find ways to deliver education to my NVQ students at my Academies and to keep my staff engaged and motivated.

ZOOM seemed like the obvious choice, so I paid for the professional package and it just opened up a whole new world. I have multiple shops and a team of educators; we’ve all spent hours driving to and from meetings in the past, often in the evening after busy days behind the chair. ZOOM has meant that we will continue meeting online for regular team meetings. Noone has to go anywhere and everyone can contribute, ask questions and share information. It’s an absolute God send. As a group we probably wouldn’t have chosen to do these meetings online before lockdown but now it seems totally normal. I haven’t just used it for business either. I’ve run

“AS A GROUP WE PROBABLY WOULDN’T HAVE CHOSEN TO DO THESE MEETINGS ONLINE BEFORE LOCKDOWN BUT NOW IT SEEMS TOTALLY NORMAL.”

MIKE’S HOT TOPIC Not everything about lockdown has been tough. Technology based tools are the gift that can keep giving way beyond the pandemic and Mike thinks businesses should capitalise.

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fun quizzes for the team, the learners and even for the Childhood Eye Cancer Trust Charity I support. The Academies have continued to offer training throughout the lockdown.

Students can watch a demo and ask questions and we can record the session and email it to them and to anyone that couldn’t make it. It’s fantastic for young apprentices but it’s also great for adult learners that don’t get the same kind of funding or have the time available. A single mum for example can plan study time around her child’s needs and doesn’t have the cost or time of travel. It also means that Colleges can connect to seasoned barbering educators more easily. They can literally plug into proper barbering education with theory and practical resources without retraining staff more used to teaching hairdressing. Making better barbers for the industry going forward.

Another great benefit of using technology is the big plus for the environment…fewer carbon emissions! I think everyone should really take a look at the ways in which they have used technology during the pandemic and think about what they should keep to make their lives, the lives of their customers and their families better. That’s got to be a silver lining!

COMMUNITY

SOCIAL (DISTANCING)

When you can’t do what you do, do what you can. Elliot Forbes @elliotforbes of Muehle Treatment Space in Soho decided to hone his social skills online with a diverse range of content.

E

lliot has been barbering for four years after curated and TikTok is more fun. It allows you to express leaving his career as a professional golfer for a job yourself in different ways,” explains Elliot. Once lockdown less financially risky. “I loved getting my haircut started Elliot’s content creativity exploded. He has a studio but often didn’t get the cut I wanted, so I decided set up at home and now integrates the platforms and to get some training initially, so that I could harmonises across each of them appropriately. Elliot understand it better,” says Elliot. He says “A lot of my content is inspired by comments loved it so much, he just kept going. and questions I get through social. I jump on Originally Elliot used his social TikTok trends to get views and I can push feed to follow other barbers but people to my IG if they want to DM as there is was confused about how to use no DM function on TikTok. I also have a ‘link the platforms. Was he sharing his work for in bio’ and encourage people to ask advice.

Get out of your comfort likes from other barbers? Was he attracting zone and have some fun! I have created fun TikTok’s like the Anchor customers? In the end Elliot decided to Man voice effect and a spiderman one and focus on the latter. “My social feeds are about I’ve done a lot of styling tips and advice on Follow @elliotforbes offering value and entertainment. Showing both IG and TikTok .”

IG and TT that have I knowledge and skills to share. Just providing value in an engaging way. I started posting Long term Elliot has grand plans but they are all real on TikTok last year and at that point I was sharing the same world ones. Elliot says “The best way to monetise social stuff across TikTok and Instagram. Then I took stock and media is using it as a tool to attract the clients that will make started looking at the context of the platform. IG is more you money in the real world!”

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ELLIOT’S TOP TIP ON TIKTOK

COMMUNITY

FIT TO FOLLOW

Social media is a great source of inspiration and MB is always watching and reading about your incredible work, your news and your views. Here’s a round-up of six of the best accounts to follow right now.

CHARLIE CULLEN (@CHARLIECULLENEDUCATION)

PAUL HARRISON (@PAULHARRISON_)

CMC BARBERSHOP (@CMCBARBER)

lots of editorial work and super cool street styles on show. Charlie loves to work with texture and length.

nice blend of modern men’s hair switched up with some awesome photography.

new shop vibes with lots of great work on show.

KIERAN EVANS (@KIPP_HAIR)

CAL NEWSOME (@SEAN_THE_BARBER_)

a diverse range of work from a barber that clearly strives for perfection.

colour, creamy fades, afro barbering and cute new baby pics. Cal’s got it all going on.

EQUINOX GENTLEMAN’S REFINERY (@ EQUNIOXGENTLEMANSREFINERY)

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owner Kerri Beale’s page is a great example of a community shop serving it’s customer’s with style and inspiration.

HELPING MEN ACROSS THE WORLD LOOK AND FEEL BETTER SHOP ONLINE

WWW.BENNYSOFLONDON.COM EMAIL FOR OUR FREE WHOLESALE BROCHURE & PRICES

SALES@BENNYSOFLONDON.COM 10% OFF YOUR FIRST ORDER

#BEBETTER #BEBENNYS

COMMUNITY

KNOW YOUR PRICE

The pandemic pause has made businesses and their owners review a lot of things…pricing should surely be one of them.

S

ometimes you have to take a step back to step forward and as we step forward into a post pandemic economy, businesses are busy taking stock of the short and long term costs of Covid. Social distancing, PPE and sanitisation are just a few of the impacts that will affect our world for a few months yet. However, the WAY you price your services is an important step in ensuring that the price you charge is correct and that fact will never change.

Carl Hinder (salon-help.nearcut.com) is a consultant that helps barbers optimise their businesses. He focuses on ‘correct’ pricing rather than ‘low/high’ pricing and has a clear method of establishing just what that correct price might be.

Carl says “Over the past months many businesses will have received mortgage holidays or rent holidays, grants and other types of financial support that will

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ultimately add up to accrued debt that will catch up with them. Lots of shops already run at break even and so now is the most important time to review pricing to ensure that what they are charging for their services is correct.”

CARL’S STEPS TO CALCULATING CORRECT PRICING. • Make a list of every single overhead for your business for the year.

Everything! Right down to the Barbicide and tea bags.

• Add them all up for an annual total.

•A dd the amount of profit that you

need to achieve. This is a reward for you that you justifiably deserve for taking the risk of running the business.

• Divide by 12 for a monthly breakdown. Divide by four for a weekly breakdown. Divide by five (or number of working days per week) for a daily breakdown. Divide by 60 for a by minute breakdown.

• You now have the gross cost per minute for the business.

• Multiply the amount by the average time it takes for you to deliver a service. So for example a 50p per

CARL HINDER (SALON-HELP.NEARCUT.COM) IS A CONSULTANT THAT HELPS BARBERS OPTIMISE THEIR BUSINESSES. HE FOCUSES ON ‘CORRECT’ PRICING RATHER THAN ‘LOW/HIGH’ PRICING AND HAS A CLEAR METHOD OF ESTABLISHING JUST WHAT THAT CORRECT PRICE MIGHT BE.

KNOW HOW minute cost for a 30 minute service equals £15.00.

Carl says “Many barbers worry about putting up their prices. They worry about losing customers. If you used the competition as your guide to price your services, then there is a 70% chance that you don’t have the accurate price for your business right now. When recalculating and adjusting prices to the CORRECT price you might initially lose a few clients but you will increase your profit. I also advise my consulting clients not to justify their price increase or apologise for any price increase.”

Apologising to customers over price increases for any service just does not happen in any other industry, so why should it happen in the barber industry?

Carl believes that correct pricing is the core of every business strategy as without pricing based on fact, none of the other ways to grow a good business will work efficiently.

It’s worth remembering that restructuring prices can happen for lots of reasons…for example shop refurbishments, new services, relocation and just plain increases mean that you lose some customers but not everyone

is YOUR customer. Creating a picture of the price you should charge for the value you can bring will help you assess your worth. Carl’s quantitative approach is a solid foundation in establishing pricing and is core to every pricing strategy. Other elements that you could consider include BRAND POSITIONING – that cheap Stone Island Puffer shipped from China on Ebay maybe the bargain of the century but it could also be poor quality rubbish. Price says something about the authenticity and quality of the purchase.

PRICE SENSITIVITY – it’s likely that you are CARL HINDER

APOLOGISING TO CUSTOMERS OVER PRICE INCREASES FOR ANY SERVICE JUST DOES NOT HAPPEN IN ANY OTHER INDUSTRY, SO WHY SHOULD IT HAPPEN IN THE BARBER INDUSTRY?

more price sensitive than your customer base. Think about where your target shops, what they wear and where they spend their leisure money. It may help you make a judgement.

INFLATION/COST OF LIVING – stuff and services go up, so why not your stuff and services?

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION – in your converted garage or on the High Street.

There is value in both depending on your target market.

SERVICE EXPERIENCE – the artisan coffee, the great vibes, the speedy WIFI, the welcome smile.

SKILL AND TRAINING – updated skills, broad creative horizons, competition wins and regular education should be shared with customers so that they can value them.

EXPERIENCE – long experience doesn’t always equal a high price but shared experience and professional advice can help raise it.

ENVIRONMENT – the beautiful premium barber chairs and stunning (spotless) interior, the amazing branding and comfortable waiting area – can add value.

RANGE OF SERVICES ON OFFER – from lineups to manicures and everything in between. There’s a customer for it all.

EASE OF ACCESS – great parking, appointments, walk-ins, queue management, opening times, online booking, contactless payment – anything for an easy life adds value.

REPUTATION – those 5* reviews, amazing word-of-mouth, handsome Instagram gallery of work all take the risk out of a cut for customers and they are willing to pay for it.

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KNOW HOW

LEARN HOW TO CREATE THE MODE WITH THE WAHL 5 STEP METHOD

By Simon Shaw & Sam Campagna

76 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

KNOW HOW

LONGEST

TRANSITION

SHORTEST

Using the WAHL All-In-One blade on setting 3, start from the sides in the transition area and peel back towards the nape allowing your hand to naturally follow the curve of the head. Repeat this process till you reach the bottom hairline of the sides and back.

The hair should be back to our starting point and be all pushed back. Section from temple to ear and push the section below forward using clipper-over-comb.

Wet the hair and comb in a slicked back position. Centre part to crown and pick up you first section. Using the clipperover-finger technique with the WAHL Genio Pro, start front to crown ensuring that the front remains the longest. This will remain the profile guide.

Using the same technique follow the guide from the profile guide, working with the same pattern to the transitional area or till you reach a 90 degree angle from the sides. This will be done on both sides.

From the crown, join up the sides peeling downwards to the nape.

FINISH

With the WAHL Beret trimmer, strengthen the hair line from the temple down, use the same technique around the ear, then behind the ear.

Curve the trimmer to join the longer back area to create a strong outline .

Create the fade by starting with a 0.5 on the WAHL Magic Clip Cordless, creating a 1cm guide at the bottom, working from short to long by graduating up the guards in increments.

TEXTURE

Once the hair has been blow-dried into style use the WAHL All-In-One blade on setting 1 to feather the nape hair to add texture.

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KNOW HOW

SHOP FLOOR STEP-BY-STEP 01

Alan began by deciding the length of the layers and how short to take the sides and back and isolated each individual panel to be worked on for accuracy and efficiency. He worked through the central panel, left then right panel, using the central panel as his guide.

THE BEFORE

03

Create a triangular section towards the fringe to extend lengths at weaker areas, such as the recession points and gives additional weight either side of the head, for a thicker and fuller look. Once dry razor or point cut shallow to add texture or deeper cutting to remove weight.

78 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

04

Take a section from the already cut apex as your guide.

Work in vertical sections at a right angle to the ground, to naturally create radiation to the occipital, to aid a smoother blend from the clipper work.

05

After finishing the internal layer, set the primary length of the fringe. To obtain the least amount of elevation, comb the fringe flat against the forehead and cut through the comb.

Alan Beak of Ruger @ alan_beak has teamed up with online education platform Amos Academy @amosacademy to offer premium digital barber education. This contemporary classic cut is snatched from Amos and there’s plenty more to see online. Big thanks to Alan and AMOS

02

Work from the crown to the fringe on each panel cutting at a right angle to the ground to create strength and weight retention in areas like the crown and fringe. Club cut throughout to optimise the shape... square through the top layers and bevelled on the side panels.Â

06

Use Sea Salt spray to maximise the natural texture of the hair, blow dry using a round brush, and a slow but high heat, this will create a small amount of manipulation to enhance the natural wave of the hair. When moisture free and hot, the hair is scrunched and organised into place to allow it to cool and set.

KNOW HOW

07

Clear the sides and back using a 1.5 guard open. Take this guard up to the highest point where you would like the side to blend into the top...here Alan took it to the point where the head peaks out the most (on top of the parietal ridge), which made the next step easier to complete.

08

Use a wide tooth comb to allow more hair through, clipper-overcomb excess weight, starting with a higher section to remove bulk and start the graduation, follow that by descending the clipper-over-comb until you reach the weight line and the blend/graduation has been achieved. A wider tooth comb will leave a more jagged and textured look.

09

Use a detailer to embed the outlines from the temple and around the ears to the nape of the neck.

10

Create a taper by creating a guideline with a zero, work under this line with a blading clipper or detailer and foil shaver. From the zero ascend through the graduation using appropriate guards and clipper length alternation until you reach the length first created which was the 1.5 guard open.

Refine and perfect the fade using different pressures, and/or the very corner of your clipper blade for more detail.

11

Strengthen all the edges made with the detailer with a straight razor, including the arches at the temple, behind the jaw line and at tops of the cheeks.

12

Using the same length guide as the hair, 1.5 guard the entire facial hair, then replicate the same taper in reverse to create a softer and beard fade. Use a water based Matte Clay such as RUGER . ESSENTIAL through the hair and style. Rake fingers backwards and forwards for a textured, organic look.

THE AFTER WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 79

LISTING BARBER APPS Nearcut. T 01606 277 565 W: nearcut.com E: sam@nearcut.com Squire Technologies. T 07496 520145 W; getsquire.com E: damian@getsquire.com

BARBER SUPPLIERS Better Salon Supplies 12 Peacock Square, Blenheim Way, Market Deeping. PE6 8LW T: 01778 346585. E: sales@bettersalonsupplies.co.uk W: www.bettersalonsupplies.co.uk Salon Supplies Bond Street, Northam, Southampton SO14 5QA. T: 0844 335 6121.

E: info@salonsupplies.co.uk W: www.salonsupplies.co.uk

BARBER TRAINING AMOS ACADEMY. Online all the time.

E: support@amos.academy.W: amos.academy Great British Barber Academy. 26 Wimborne Road, Poole, Dorset, BH15 2BU. T: 01202 287143.

E: info@greatbritishbarberingacademy.com.

W: www.greatbritishbarberingacademy.com

FRANCHISING MR Barbers Group: . 27 North Street, Bishops Stortford, Herts, CM23 2LD T: 01799 611504 E: info@mrbarbers.co.uk.

W: www.mrbarbers.co.uk

FURNITURE Moda Salon Interiors. 1st Floor 4A, Brittany Court, High Street South, Dunstable, Beds, LU6 3HR. T: 0800 999 6446.

E: sales@modasaloninteriors.com.

W: www.modasaloninteriors.com REM UK Ltd. Glenfield Mill, Glenfield Road, Nelson, Lancashire, BB9 8AW. T: 01282 619977.

E: sales@rem.co.uk. W: www.rem.co.uk Takara Belmont . Belmont House, 1 St Andrews Way, Bow, London, E3 3PA. T: 0207 515 0333.

E: katie@takara.co.uk.

W: www.takarahairdressing.co.uk 80 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

Our quick reference guide to the products and services that love serving your industry.

PRODUCTS American Crew. Revlon Professional, Ground Floor, Greater London House, Hampstead Road, London, NW1 7QX. T: 0207 391 7440.

E: customerservice.uk@revlon.com.

W: www.americancrew.com Benny’s of London. E: ben@bennysoflondon.com W: www. bennysoflondon.com Morgan’s Pomade Company Ltd. Tyler Way, Swalecliffe.

Whitstable. Kent. CT5 2RT T: 01227 792 761 E: sales@ morganspomade.co.uk W: www.morganspomade. co.uk MVRCK by Mitch. Salon Success Ltd, 1-2 Millenium Point, Broadfields, Aylesbury, Bucks, HP19 8YH T: 0845 659 0012 E: helloclub@salon-success.co.uk W: www.paul-mitchell.co.uk SKNhead London. E: info@sknhead.com W: sknhead.com The Bluebeards Revenge. Unit One, Langage, Business Park, Eagle Road, Plymouth, PL7 5JY. T: 01752 898191 E: info@bluebeards-revenge.co.uk W: www.bluebeards-revenge.co.uk

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT Andis. Available at all good barber suppliers.W:andis.com Artero. T: 07922421271 E: info.uk@artero.com.

W: www.artero.co.uk Babyliss Pro The Conair Group Ltd, Prospect Court, 3 Waterfront Business Park, Fleet, Hampshire, GU51 3TW T: 0370 5133191. E: ukinfo@conair.co.uk.

W: babylisspro.co.uk HairJCKT. 1.4 294 Shalesmoor, Sheffield, S3 8UL. T: 07971 831030. E: paul@hairjkt.co.uk.

W: www.hairjkt.co.uk Wahl UK. Sterling House, Clipper Close, Ramsgate Kent, CT12 5GG. T: 01227 740066.

E: customer.services@wahl.co.uk.

W: www.wahl.co.uk

SUPPORT AND ADVICE NHBF One Abbey Court, Fraser Road, Priory Business Park, Bedford, MK44 3WH. T 01234 831965 nhbf.co.uk

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CATEGORIES

BEST TEAM SPONSORED BY WAHL

London 11 October 2020 CELEBRATE YOUR SUCCESS! OPEN FOR ENTRY until AUGUST 10th.

Easy online entry. Choose from eight categories to show off your strengths.

BEST BUSINESS LEADER BEST CUSTOMER SERVICE BEST APPRENTICE BEST TRAINING BEST SHOP INTERIOR SPONSORED BY TAKARA BELMONT

BEST ALL ROUND BARBER (PHOTOGRAPHIC) SPONSORED BY MVRCK

Mark your diary for the Modern Barber Awards event on Sunday 11th October Tickets £45pp available soon.

Bookmark modernbarberawards.co.uk.

Follow FB Modern Barber Magazine/IG and Twitter @modernbarbermag for updates

BEST PHOTOGRAPHIC ENTRY SPONSORED BY AMERICAN CREW