MB Storefront Shopping Guide - January to March

Brands to buy . Services to shop . Stuff to see. jan - march 2019

BEST PRACTICE ON PLANNING SHOPFITS

GET IN TOUCH

HAIR: THE BARBERROOM/ @MASTERYOGIE PHOTOGRAPHY: GREG BLOOR

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EDITOR AND PUBLISHER: Rachel Gould rachel@modernbarber.co.uk DESIGN AND PRODUCTION: Annie Bartley design@anniebartley.co.uk ADVERTISING: rachel@modernbarber.co.uk CONTRIBUTORS: Simon Shaw, Edward Hemmings, Lilly Dillon, Jo Stone, Cal Newsome, Jarred Liddington, Emil McMahon.

COVER CREDITS: Photography: Tonie Smith.

Cover Star: Colin Petrie (@colin_hardgrind).

FIND US ONLINE: modernbarber.co.uk SOCIAL: IG/Twitter @modernbarbermag, FB Modern Barber Magazine CALL ON: 01295 533755. For all online and print advertising and editorial enquiries, please contact rachel@modernbarber.co.uk Modern Barber Ltd is registered in the UK. Registration number: 06084337. VAT number: 178993237 Registered and correspondence address: Three Acre Barn, Thorpe Road, Upper Wardington, Oxon OX17 1SP. Subscriptions can be securely purchased through: modernbarber.co.uk/subscribe UK SUBSCRIPTIONS: 1 year, 4 issues £20 post paid.

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Printed by Pensord Press Ltd. www.pensord.co.uk © Modern Barber Magazine accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no reponsibility can be accepted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without prior written permission from the publishers.

Modern Barber’s circulation has been independently audited and verified by the Audit Bureau of Circulations (abcstandards.org. uk) and reaches over 10,000 independent addresses.

NEWSROOM

CONTENTS ISSUE 21 | JANUARY - MARCH 2019

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APPY NEW YEAR! MB can’t wait to see what 2019 brings for you. If it’s a patch on the success and talents that MB was privileged to write about last year then it’s going to be amazing. On page 22 we look out the move to longer lengths as a ‘growing’ trend and the demands that will place on time, skill and potentially profit. For barbershops looking for inspiration on changing up their space, MB takes a look at how Sam Campagna of Alternative Barber Co approaches his shop fits plus expert tips on best practice. In a recent online survey, 53% of respondents found finding staff to be their toughest challenge so don’t forget to find the tips from recruitment expert Lilly Dillon on page 14. See you in the Spring.

RACHEL GOULD Editor

6 SNIPPETS AND STORIES from in, around and on the industry.

12 STAFF WANTED…ALWAYS. The latest gen on apprenticeships.

FEATURES 14 SMART RECRUITMENT: wisdom on building to the team.

16 MYSPACE: best practice on shop design.

18 MASTERS OF ILLUSION: ways to beat bald.

22 THE MANE EVENT: a short look at going long.

28 AMERICAN CREW: enter their All-Star Challenge competition

SHOPPING 30 STOREFRONT: Stuff you need and gear you want.

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SOCIAL 32 RECOGNITION IS PRICELESS: how Ruffian’s recognise performance.

34 CREATIVE PROGRESSION: Jak Finch shares his journey.

38 THE SHAW THING: home of Simon Shaw’s regular column.

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MB:NEWS

MR’S LADY BARBERS RAISE CASH FOR CHARI’TEE

Stories on, in and about the industry…Share your thoughts with us @modernbarbermag

JOHNNY BABA

THE FELLOWSHIP FOR BRITISH HAIRDRESSING LAUNCHES THE BARBER PROJECT

T LEFT TO RIGHT: SIOBHAN MANNERS, FAYE ATWELL, JENNY MCDONALD, PHYLLI LAMB.

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s an homage to the Spice Girls returning to the stage (minus Posh), four lady barbers – Siobhan Manners, Faye Atwell, Jenny McDonald and Phylli Lamb from the MR Barbers group (@ mrbarbers), decided that what they really, really want is a charity T shirt and a fun promotional pic! MR employ over 100 barbers and many are female.

Director Sam Prior says “We are always looking to support our barbers in any fundraising ideas they have and so when the opportunity came up to support the girls in recreating the Spice Girls photo to help raise awareness for Comic Relief, we were only too happy to help. As a company, gender equality is something that we strongly support and always have done.

It’s never been an issue for us and it really doesn’t matter what gender a barber is or 6 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“AS A COMPANY, GENDER EQUALITY IS SOMETHING THAT WE STRONGLY SUPPORT AND ALWAYS HAVE DONE.” what walk of life any of our barbers come from, it’s always been about the personality character and skill of the barber.” Barber Philly Robinson works at MR Barbers in Central Ipswich and says “MR treats all genders equally. The Directors treat every barber, at every level of the business the same without exception.” The barbers had great fun recreating the picture and the #iwannabeamrgirl T-Shirts are available instore and online with all profits going to Comic Relief.

he Fellowship has created a mentoring and education programme for barbers and hairdressers looking to tap into the skills and wisdom of a network of five experienced barbering mentors including Johnny Shanahan of Barber Barber UK and Sheriff Mehmet of Envy Barbers. Over the course of the year, students will cover all aspects of men’s hairdressing, through to the core barbering skills of clipper work and wet-shaving. The project will build up to stage time at Salon International in October this year. The provisional calendar includes an introductory session, barber cuts workshop, clipper workshop, beard and shave workshop, presentation and fashion skills workshop all taught by experts and with press exposure. The Barber Project mentor, Johnny Baba, says: “The trend of barbering is at its highest but the craft of barbering is at an all-time low.” With the launch of the project, the Fellowship hopes to help celebrate the mastery of the craft and create a new generation of inspired barbers.

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MB:NEWS

Stories on, in and about the industry…Share your thoughts with us @modernbarbermag

WINNER WAHL BRITISH BARBER OF THE YEAR JAMES BEAUMONT AND WAHL GLOBAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR SIMON SHAW

BALDY

DAN RIX

HAIRCUTS FOR HARLEY

SO MUCH WINNING!

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ames Beaumont (@james_ beamont) has a hard act to follow in 2019. His trophy shelf is groaning from all of his 2018 wins including the whopping Wahl trophy for his win as Wahl Barber of the Year last October. James beat some VERY tough competition in two live cutting rounds on the Wahl Stage at Salon International in London. Only weeks later James was at the NHF Awards picking up his win for the Male Fashion Look Collection. So what advice can James give to barbers considering entering comps? “The more

HEADS UP! DATES FOR THE DIARY 8 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

education you feed yourself about hair, the more you build your confidence to excel in the industry. After that if you feel that you have something to show and you enjoy sharing that with others then get in involved and enter. What’s the worst that can happen? Just go for it!”

MORE CONGRATULATION TO...

Ruffians Barbers for winning Wahl Barbershop of the Year.

The Company of Master Barbers for winning NHF Best Barbering Business.

Aimee McPherson of Hidden Heights for winning NHF Male Fashion Look.

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s part of a global brand collaboration, American Crew has teamed up with Harley Davidson for events and shared publicity. This year marks American Crew’s 25th anniversary and UK Elite Team members are pitching in with their creative skills to help celebrate. At the end of last year Baldy (@baldysbarbers) and Dan Rix of The Master Barbers (@ themasterbarbers) had their very own barbershop pop-up right on the Harley Davidson stand at the UK’s largest motorcycle show at the NEC. Baldy says “It was so busy. I was booked back-to-back all day and the show visitors loved it.” Lots more to come throughout 2019!

24TH/25TH FEBRUARY: HJ LIVE, EXCEL LONDON SALONEXIBITIONS.CO.UK

2ND/3RD JUNE: BARBER CONNECT, INTERNATIONAL CENTRE TELFORD BARBERCONNECT.CO.UK

1ST MARCH: AMERICAN CREW ALL-STAR COMPETITION CLOSES AMERICANCREW.COM/ALLSTARCHALLENGE

5TH- 7TH OCTOBER: SALON INTERNATIONAL, EXCEL LONDON SALONEXHIBITIONS.CO.UK

19TH/20TH MAY: BARBER UK, NEC BIRMINGHAM BARBERUKSHOW.COM

13TH – 14TH OCTOBER: HJ LIVE, EVENT CITY MANCHESTER SALON EXHIBITIONS.CO.UK

N E W Apollo 2 Icon with Classic heelrest: head to heel forever iconic.

MB:NEWS MARK THOMSON

Stories on, in and about the industry…Share your thoughts with us @modernbarbermag

GARETH CLARK

MARK THOMSON IS SUPPORTING VETERANS WITH BIG PLANS

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s a car and motorcycle enthusiast barber Mark Thomson (@ themodbarber) was so happy when he stumbled upon an event at The Veterans Garage (veteransgarage. co.uk) at City Airport Barton just outside Manchester. The Veterans Garage is a charity created by a group of ex-service personnel and their families as a forward thinking social hub and community automotive club. There are big plans ahead to renovate the donated Terminal building and barns and this is where Mark is playing his part. The current café/bar is a Bike Shed style meeting place that raises funds for the build and offers support for ex-forces personnel.

Mark met with the team at Veterans Garage and pitched them the idea of an onsite barbershop. Mark explains “I was going to offer my services as a one off at the next Meet but when I looked into what they were about and what their plans were, I figured I

“WHEN I LOOKED INTO WHAT THEY WERE ABOUT AND WHAT THEIR PLANS WERE, I FIGURED I COULD OFFER MORE” could offer more, so I set up a meeting.” With Mark’s support there are plans to integrate a permanent barbershop into the site development that will include a smoke house restaurant, car and motorcycle workshops, social lounge, games room and more. Mark will offer not just cuts for veterans and civilians but also training for any ex-forces members that are considering transitioning into barbering.

To support Mark and the Veterans Garage get in touch on FB Mark Thomson or IG @themodbarber.

JACKS OF LONDON GETS INTERNATIONAL RECOGNITION

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lapham-based barber Kipp Evans (@kipphair) from Jacks of London was named UK International Barber of the Year and won third place overall in the International Barber Awards held in Germany, beating barbers from all around the world. Kipp 10 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

had to shave the head of a model then trim his beard in the first round. After qualifying through to the final, he had to produce an on-trend look for 2019, all in real time. “It was so tense, especially as I had to organise my models without seeing them before the actual competition but it was awesome to represent Britain and to actually win the UK title. British barbering leads the world; I went to Germany determined to prove it” said Kipp. Jacks of London (@jacksoflondonuk) Director Sue Whitehead adds “In 2018 we were delighted to get to the finals of so many awards, encouraging our barbers to pit their skills against the best worldwide. 2019 is going to be even better.”

SALON SERVICES SPONSORS GBBA COLLEGE TOUR

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he Great British Barbering Academy (@gbbarberacademy) and Salon Services (@ salonservicesuk) have teamed up for a tour of 20 Colleges across the UK. The first event of 2019 will take place in Poole. The GBBA educators will deliver an afternoon of education for students and staff followed by an evening of coaching and inspiration. The content of the afternoon sessions will be tailored to the needs of each college. “Some might just offer hairdressing so they will be looking for short men’s hair and clipper cuts, while others might want Level 3 barbering,” says GBBA founder, Mike Taylor. “Two educators will go into the college from around 2.30pm to 5.30pm and offer barber training for the students. From 6.30pm to 9pm we’ll invite local hairdressers and barbers to come along for a ‘chat show’ style session, which will include live haircuts and beard trims and advice on barbering, additional services and social media, ending in a Q&A.” Tickets to the event will cost £10. To find out more about the tour and tickets, visit greatbritish barberingacademy.com.

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MB:NEWS

STAFF WANTED… ALWAYS Edward Hemmings of Alan d Academy (@alandhair) has two decades of experience running apprenticeship training. He’s pretty much seen it all when it comes to Government funding decisions on apprenticeships and says the latest changes aren’t all helpful. Thanks for the heads up Edward!

EDWARD HEMMINGS

GRANTS PAID TO EMPLOYERS EMPLOYING 1618 YEAR OLD APPRENTICES WERE UNAFFECTED AT £1000 AND FOR THOSE EMPLOYING 19 YEAR OLDS AND OLDER LEARNERS, A CONTRIBUTION OF 10% OF THE FUNDING IS REQUIRED, WHICH IS CURRENTLY £900.

ALL GOOD SO FAR...

Had I been asked to write this article a few months ago, I probably would’ve had to rewrite it 20 times by now! There have been so many changes over the last 12 to 15 months, that our Academy has had five brochure reprints. Back in May 2018, the new Standards replaced the previous Frameworks for Apprenticeships. Called Trailblazer, the Government wanted to update and improve the state of apprenticeships countrywide and by listening to feedback from employers, the new programme was implemented to include an ‘end-point-assessment’.

This would at last help to ensure that all apprentices qualified with enough skills to enter the workplace and end the tick-box qualification that we had to put up with for so many years. Government also stipulated that the minimum time for qualification needed to rise from 1 year 1 month to 2 years. In return, funds to learning centres were raised considerably to £9000 per student. Grants paid to employers employing 16-18 year old

apprentices were unaffected at £1000 and for those employing 19 year olds and older learners, a contribution of 10% of the funding is required, which is currently £900. All good so far. Employers got the programme that they wanted and training providers got an increase in funds per candidate. Except, that unfortunately, some large providers continued to use the absolute minimum term of 13 months to deliver the Trailblazer training and not the recommended longer term and so guess what? The Government had a review and reduced the funding by 20% to £7000 from January 2019. And truthfully, why wouldn’t they? Where does that leave the industry? As a good provider, like many of us are, we are a little aggrieved at the actions of the unscrupulous providers who have caused us to earn less but as an employer, if you employ apprentices over 19 years old, you’ve just been handed back a few hundred quid! More good news was slipped in the back door in last year’s mid-term budget, as the apprenticeship levy will be reduced to only 5%, from the current 10%, making contributions from the employer for apprentices over 19 only £350. Now the question that we’re all asking…where do we all find apprentices?

Well in the last few months our Academy has had the best apprentice intakes for a good few years. In discussion with our barbershop employers, it has become clear that those who offer a strong career path, those who have treated their past apprentices with dignity and respect and those whose past apprentices are now an integral part of their business are the ones getting the apprentices. They are the employers that discuss apprenticeships with their clients, engage with the local schools and show them what a great industry their kids, nieces or nephews could be joining.” Edward Hemmings.

Follow Edward Hemmings on Linkedin to keep up with his video soapbox on apprenticeship training.

Stories on, in and about the industry…Share your thoughts with us @modernbarbermag 12 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

MB:NEWS

TIPS FOR EMPLOYERS • Don’t make promises to the barber that you can’t keep.

Be honest with the barber and manage their expectations. No point in promising a busy shop if they are on a commission and then only two customers are walking in.

• Keep up with social media.

SMART RECRUITMENT

Barber Lilly Dillon owns industry recruitment agency, The Barber Agency (@thebarberagency). Here Lilly shares her wisdom on recruitment and best practice.

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illy has a 360° view of the recruitment issue. She’s worked as a barber seeking a job, as a manager seeking barbers and as a consultant to international barbershop employers and job applicants. In a ‘cutthroat’ recruitment climate the issues are varied but recurrent. Lilly says “There are many different types of barber shops with different expectations and interview processes and what suits some, doesn’t suit others. Some work with a vigorous interview structure and some just panic recruit, thinking that any chair that is empty with clients walking away is detrimental to the business. Be warned however as not choosing the right candidate can be just as detrimental, as high staff turnover can also be disruptive.

It all boils down to ‘relationships’. The employer needs to build a relationship with the barber and the barber, then in turn builds good relationships with clients. It adds up to a lucrative and happy business!” Lilly recommends giving graduate barbers a break as the ‘oldest barber or most experienced’ barber, is not always the ‘best’ barber or fit for the shop.

14 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“SOME WORK WITH A VIGOROUS INTERVIEW STRUCTURE AND SOME JUST PANIC RECRUIT.” It’s about investing and nurturing. Some barbers just have a natural flair and raw talent. Other barbers may need to work harder than others to get to the same level.

The right fit for barbers is an essential part of ensuring that they stay long term and Lilly recommends that shops don’t try and be something they are not while recruiting.

“Don’t get phased by the latest barbershop that’s popped up and concentrate on what you have and making the right recruitment decisions. Build your own vibe. Also be flexible! Often employers are searching for the ‘perfect’ barber. Some demands are simply just ridiculous and everything is ruled out. When you don’t know what you want, the easiest way is to then rule out what you don’t want and be realistic,” explains Lilly.

• Work WITH the barber.

• Don’t be desperate, be decisive.

• Don’t dismiss barbers because they don’t have enough experience. Meet them, nurture them. Don’t treat them as just a payroll number.

• Ask for their five year plan and what they would like to achieve each year. Make realistic targets and goals.

• Don’t listen to rumour, make your own judgements!

TIPS FOR BARBERS • Don’t lie in interviews, no point.

• Be sure to check your CV for grammar and correct contact details.

• Take pictures of your before and after’s to demonstrate skill.

• Do your research on the shops and only apply for the ones that would suit you.

• Last but not least… never give up.

VISIT THEBARBERAGENCY.COM OR MODERNBARBERJOBS.CO.UK.

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A R A N G E O F 19 B R U S H ES . E XC LU S I V E TO P R O F ES S I O N A L S

hello@kentsalon.com | 01442 232623 | kentsalon.com

M B : F E AT U R E

MYSPACE

The barbershop space is the biggest first impression than any barber can make for their brand. So what are the best ways to make your space speak for your business?

CASE STUDY: ALTERNATIVE BARBERING COMPANY

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am Campagna owner of Alternative Barbering Company (@ alternativebarberco) has walked some hard yards on shop fits…he’s done four. His latest is in a 1300 square foot heritage building in St Albans, Hertfordshire. The space had previously been a kitchen showroom and from the moment he stepped through the door, Sam knew that it was the space for him. Sam says “I knew instantly where everything would go. It was the perfect canvas. From experience I’ve realised that the more you have to do to a space to make it fit your needs, the worse things get. I look for spaces that are linear, that have a natural flow. Awkward and complicated places with nooks and crannies become open to mistakes.” The brief for his latest shop was clutter free, minimalist and light. A traditional shop 16 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

with a premium service in a contemporary space. The shop opens into a lounge and reception area; a super stylish anteroom to the main event. At the rear Sam used natural materials and handsome nut brown Belmont’s to set the stage for the high standard service and customer care that his clients have come to enjoy. The Listed Building status delivered some constraints but Sam has used them to his

F E AT U R E : M B

EXPERT PANEL Best practice on shop fits means hitting on all the key considerations for planning your space. The experts from Takara Belmont (@takara_belmont_uk) and Albert Ewan Design share their wisdom.

LOVE YOUR LOGO?

“YOU CAN ATTRACT THE CORRECT CLIENTELE BY CHOOSING THE DESIGN THAT FITS THE SPACE AND THE TOWN OR AREA THAT YOU ARE IN.” advantage, embracing the building into his design. Lighting in his shop fits have been the most problematic element of design. Sam says “You basically need as much flooding light as possible in an even spread. No concentrated pools of light that throw shadows. The ceiling in our shop was unsafe, so we tore it down and put in a suspended ceiling that gave me the opportunity to design the large staggered light panels. It’s one of the areas in shop fits where a tight budget is the most challenging but I’ve learned not to scrimp on lighting design.”

Design that harmonises with the service, the background music and importantly the price list helps to attract the right kind of loyal clients. Sam explains “Design equals feeling and mood. You can attract the correct clientele by choosing the design that fits the space and the town or area that you are in. Get it wrong and you’ve missed a trick. The problem of whether you have a large space or a small space, equals the same problem. You want to create a good vibe in a large space and that can be challenging. I’ve done this in St Albans by dividing the space and with

BRIT BORN AND BRED REM BARBER CHAIRS (REM-MEN.COM) CAN BE EMBROIDERED WITH YOUR BRAND.

PLUMBING What services will you be offering? Wet shaves, colour, skin treatments will all take a toll on the demands of water and waste.

Make sure you get a professional plumber to plan and install your water supply and ensure your chairs and service stations are not too far away from the boiler which will cause water pressure problems.

SPACE PLANNING

scent atomisers, and warmer lights in the waiting area with whiter light in the service area. The lights are Phillips Hues and are all controlled by my phone, so you can change them through the day and the seasons.” After four shop fits, Sam has preferred contractors and all the furniture is custom built by RK Carpentry (@rk_carpentry), he also rarely deviates from Takara Belmont and believes that as a focal point for any shop no expense should be spared on quality barber chairs. Each workstation is calculated on a three metre square ‘box’ of space to ensure that both barber and customer are comfortable.

Whatever plan you have for your design Sam recommends staying flexible to avoid making errors. “During every build after the builders have left for the day, I just go and sit in the space and spend time there. It means that I can spot potential problems early and change them before it’s too late.”

Measure everything. It may seem obvious but furniture and equipment such as hot towel cabinets, facial steamers, reclining chairs, front washes, retail areas, waiting areas (based on appointments or walk-ins)… all need consideration. Overcrowding has a negative effect on the client experience and it can impact on the quality of service. If you are challenged on space and don’t want to compromise on service look for combi units such as the Takara Belmont Dover and Aubrey that offer an integrated towel warmer or a front/backwash in one.

LIGHTING Lighting position and type are important, not just for ambience but for functionality. If the lighting is directly above, ensure it’s not too far forward, or back throwing shadows.

DÉCOR When you create your interior, the look and style distinguishes and differentiates your brand. So look at all the options to customise your chairs and equipment including colours, textures, finishes and other options that elevate your look and add power to your brand!

FUTURE PROOFING A five year plan is the minimum requirement for success. Make choices that will last for the long term in a high footfall business.

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MASTERS OF ILLUSION

PICS: COURTESY OF SCALPOLOGY

There are non-surgical alternatives to transplants for a receding hairline or a bald crown; so if it bothers you, sort it!

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air loss is an eroding experience regardless of its cause and can damage self-confidence, impacting on every area of life. If Harley Street is beyond the pocket then medical tourism now offers a myriad of slick choices from Turkey to Thailand, however for men that don’t want the risk or the cost of going under the knife for more on top, there are super safe domestic options right here at home. Replacement hair systems like the ones offered by Neu Hair 4 Men (@ newhair4men) are essentially a bespoke human hair piece that blends seamlessly with natural growth. It’s undetectable and durable, lasting months with proper maintenance. The key asset with the 18 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“AFTER BARBERING FOR 25 YEARS AND SEEING THE IMPACT THAT HAIR LOSS WAS HAVING ON A LOT OF MY CLIENTS, I BECAME INTRIGUED ABOUT DIFFERENT TYPES OF HAIR LOSS SOLUTIONS.” hair system is that the wearer makes no concessions to lifestyle – taking in showering, swimming, gym sessions and daily styling while being worn continuously. If hair replacement doesn’t appeal then why not go for the

illusion of a full head of hair. Scalp Micropigmentation is a fast growing service that can mask thinning hair, strengthen hairlines or give customers that manly just shaved head look.

Michael Koumis is a barber cum entrepreneur who founded Scalpology to deliver an expert micropigmentation service that would solve problems for his clients. Michael says “After barbering for 25 years and seeing the impact that hair loss was having on a lot of my clients, I became intrigued about different types of hair loss solutions. Scalp micropigmentation was, for me, the only instant noninvasive, cost effective solution.” The process is similar to tattooing, and is done by applying specialist pigments to the scalp. It is effective for all kinds of hair loss including scar camouflage,

F E AT U R E : M B 12

SCALPOLOGY

14

SCALPOLOGY 16

SCALPOLOGY alopecia and to add density to thin hair.

The results are instant and typically a customer returns for three sessions for a full head but each client is unique.

Michael extends the same kind of service and care to his SMP customers as he does for anyone in his barber chair and makes sure that facial hair is trimmed and natural hairlines are sharp. Scalpology offers not just the service but the training and equipment required for barbers to begin offering SMP to their own customers.

THE BUSINESS BOOSTERS Scalp Micropigmentation and Hair Replacement Systems won’t just delight your customers, it will delight your bank manager too.

Scalpology prices range from £600£2500 depending on the level of hair loss. Treatments are performed over 2-3 sessions and Scalpology works out prices FACT CREDITS: STUART MUNDY, NEU HAIR FOR MEN

BEFORE

on £200 per hour. A comprehensive training package is available at £2495.

Successful completion will allow you to apply for a ‘Special Treatment License’ from your local council to start trading.

Hair Replacement Systems cost on average £3500 a year including maintenance. A full franchise package with NEU Hair 4 Men costs £3995 including a £1500 start-up kit and training.

AFTER

FACTS ON HAIR LOSS 25% OF MEN

begin to go bald by the age of 30.

66% OF MEN

are bald or have a balding pattern by the age of 60.

A hair loss client spends on average

FIVE TIMES AS MUCH

as any other client over a 12-month period.

WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 19

BY

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M B : F E AT U R E

HAIR: THE BARBERROOM PHOTO: GREG BLOOOR

THE MANE EVENT The trend for longer lengths is inching (literally) towards mainstream. Growing skill to keep pace is the long game.

22 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

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B ran a little Instagram poll recently asking ‘Are customers going longer?’ and 41% answered with a ‘yes’.

Longer hair trends can make an impact on any barbershop business.

While it’s unlikely to be the commercial killer mature barbers will remember from the 1970’s, your customer’s choice to go longer stretches out the frequency

intervals. Plus it keeps the time it takes to deliver a great cut on the high side.

The truth is, it’s happening and UK men are switching up their style. They are letting it grow out and skipping the skin fade that they’ve had every three weeks for the last two years. Craig Evans owner of Youngman’s Oxford (@youngmansoxford) has seen a rise of requests for longer swept back styles for his customers. As a barber that began his career in hairdressing he falls back on his brick cutting and deep parallel

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M B : F E AT U R E

KEY POINTS ON LONGER LENGTHS

point cutting techniques. Craig says “I think the gap between hairdressing training and barbering training is narrowing as men are experimenting with longer styles. It’s also important to make sure the client is confident styling his own hair on a day-to-day basis and I like to talk them through styling techniques as I am finishing the haircut.” His longer hair clients return around every five weeks. To maintain revenue Craig upsells added services such as treatments, facials and shaves and proactively talks to customers about the retail products available to use at home.

“I THINK THE GAP BETWEEN HAIRDRESSING TRAINING AND BARBERING TRAINING IS NARROWING AS MEN ARE EXPERIMENTING WITH LONGER STYLES. IT’S ALSO IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE THE CLIENT IS CONFIDENT STYLING HIS OWN HAIR ON A DAYTO-DAY BASIS AND I LIKE TO TALK THEM THROUGH STYLING TECHNIQUES AS I AM FINISHING THE HAIRCUT.” Everyman Barbers (@everyman barbersuk) group has eight shops and is seeing an increase of requests for longer styles inspired by the likes of Jason Momoa, Bradley Cooper and Kit Harrington. Nathan Billingham is Manager of Everyman’s Birmingham shop and says “The key to not being just a good barber but an epic barber is in the skill sets you have. You could do the world’s best skin fade but if the length on top isn’t sectioned and angled precisely then you’re going to fail. Having the knowledge, confidence and talent for cutting everything from a short clipper cut to a guy with shoulder 24 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

Advice from barber and educator Paul Nicholson (@paul. nicholsonjnr_hair)

HAIR: EVERYMAN BARBERS

CRAIG EVANS

length hair who wants a tidy up with layers, is what makes a stand out barber.”

Nathan makes sure that every barber working in the shop is armed with the right skills to welcome any man that comes through the door. Newcomers are assessed and then if there are areas for improvement, Nathan will arrange specific training courses. “Longer hair is the most popular training course, as many younger barbers coming through haven’t the skills of both a hairdresser and a barber just yet,” explains Nathan.

Education also extends to the client and the team is trained to take each customer through the steps required to recreate their look at home. The hot product fave at Everyman for styling longer lengths is salt spray to add texture and separation.

Regardless of hair trends Everyman takes all aspects of business seriously and finalised for Retail Salon of the Year and Male Grooming Salon of the Year at the British Hairdressing Business Awards.

Knowing what section patterns and angles to work to is the biggest factor in longer hair.

IE Below shoulder length, go for a hot cross bun section and work down the head.

For mid length like mod cuts work to a horseshoe shaped section and pull out the hair at varied angles to retain the square masculine shape. Like a carpenter measure twice, cut once.

CONSULTATION, CONSULTATION, CONSULTATION! Take the time to understand the way the hair sits naturally and consider density, texture, hair type. Curly hair is by far one of the biggest banana skins for anyone that doesn’t have a lot of experience, taking the tension overly taut can make the hair shrink to a third of its size. With fine hair that is low in density, taking sections too large and blunt cutting can leave lines which can be softened, however don’t take out too much weight.

I believe you can never know too much in the hair industry.

Not one single person in the industry knows it all. Being adaptable and open minded are two of the best qualities a stylist or barber can have, so never stop learning!

A CUT ABOVE

2018 All-Star Challenge UK Winner & Global Finalist Sam Wall, Hidden Heights Creative Studio

Be a part of the most important men’s styling and grooming competition in the world.

Show us your interpretation of the American Crew man with a visionary and expressive All-Star style for your chance to win the experience of a lifetime.

Finalists will enjoy an all-expenses paid trip to go head-to-head with some of the best stylists in the world.

The Global Champion takes home a $10,000 cash prize as well the ultimate bragging rights.

Open for entries November 2018 - March 1st 2019 allstarchallenge.americancrew.com

GLOBAL CHAMPION AWARD $10,000 For updates and your chance to be a part of this year’s competition visit allstarchallenge.americancrew.com Or follow us for updates @AMERICANCREWUK

#AllStarChallenge

2018 All-Star Challenge Global Champion, Vitaly Pimenov, Russia © 2018 Beautyge Brands USA, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

FIBER LINE

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M B : S P E C I A L F E AT U R E

ENTER AMERICAN CREW ALL-STAR CHALLENGE The UK and Ireland have been blazing a trail of success in this global competition in recent years, so fly the flag for your amazing talents and for your country! The 2019 competition is open and what better year to enter than the 25th anniversary of American Crew, the brand that changed the game for male grooming forever.

Win the UK region and your entry may be selected for the Global Finals and THAT could take you all the way to an unforgettable week in New York City.

HAIR: SAM WALL. PHOTOGRAPHY: MARIE HARKNESS

S P E C I A L F E AT U R E : M B

HOW TO ENTER:

SAM WALL: UK WINNER AND GLOBAL FINALIST.

A TRACK RECORD OF SUCCESS!

I

n 2017 UK winner Adam Mir took the Global title in Brussels competing against 14 other finalists which included the winner for Ireland Ciarán O’Sullivan. In describing the highlight of the experience Adam said “Well winning was brilliant but meeting all the different barbers from all over the world was really the best. Seeing and sharing their passion and coming together from different countries and from different walks of life was something amazing. The whole week was fantastic to be honest.

The experience made us all feel like celebrities.”

In 2018 Sam Wall of Hidden Heights Creative Studio went all the way to Barcelona to carry the flag for the UK at the Global Finals. Sam says “I entered because winning the UK AllStar Challenge had been a very long term goal. I did it simply because I had literally dreamt about participating in the Global Finals and you couldn’t get there without winning the UK. I’m still a bit shocked that it came true in Barcelona. I had entered for a few years and so ahead of creating my entry I really did some research on where I might be going wrong. I reflected on the judge’s feedback, looked into what the American Crew brand represented and what they were looking for in a successful entry and I tailored my look towards the American Crew Style. I took inspiration from last year’s look and although they are very different styles

GLOBAL FINALS NEW YORK CITY MAY 2019

Barbers and men’s stylists are asked to create a hair style that best represents the American Crew man, using the brand’s products.

This look should be on a model and showcased through two black and white pictures of their model from chest-level and above, in front of a BLANK background. The two images should be one photo face-on and one photo focusing on the profile. Photos are required to be accompanied by a brief description of the look and the American Crew products that were used to create it.

The competition closes on 1st March 2019. To enter visit www.americancrew.com/ allstarchallenge.

WHAT HAPPENS NEXT:

“THE WHOLE WEEK WAS FANTASTIC TO BE HONEST. THE EXPERIENCE MADE US ALL FEEL LIKE CELEBRITIES.” you will still see similarities. Winning the UK opened doors and got me noticed on a national level but once Barcelona came, well that’s when I got to really kick it up a notch and it took me international and I feel my growth has been very quick since then. Any advice I would give to people who want to enter would be to just do it. Get rid of that fear. It’s so hard when you get knocked back or to even put your work out there in the first place but we are never ‘failing’ or ‘losing’ as it’s really the only way we can grow and learn. Don’t be scared and don’t take failure badly just use it as your motivation for the future!”

ENTER BEFORE MARCH 1st

Your entry will be judged by up to five independent regional judges.

The judges only see an ID number on each image and no further details about the entrant. The regional winner receives the title and PR and press support plus the chance to be selected for the Global Finals.

Following a meticulous review of all the qualifying entries, the top 15 finalists will represent their talent and their country at the 2019 American Crew All-Star Challenge, where they will compete during a weekend of artistic exhibition and mastery to become the American Crew 2019 All Star Challenge Global Champion.

WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU WIN: The global winner will receive: • $10,000 USD • The coveted American Crew All-Star Challenge Global Champion trophy • An invitation to judge the 2019-2020 American Crew All-Star Challenge • A full scholarship to the new American Crew Education Program

MB:PRODUCTS

WAHL 100 YEAR ANNIVERSARY CLIPPER

BURBAN FIBRE PASTE Flexible firm-hold paste for a natural finish. 100ml. Price: £9.59 inc VAT. salon-services.com.

Wahl’s most powerful cordless clipper for bulk removal and tapering uses a powerful rotary motor, corded/cordless usage, 70 minute run time, adjustable taper level, lithium battery. Available for 1 year only - grab a piece of Wahl history.

Price: £179.99 inc VAT. wahl.co.uk.

BARBER & CO HARD POMADE Strong long lasting hold and high shine finish for those classic barber styles. Vegan friendly, paraben free, washes out. 95g RRP £11.95. barberandcoeu.com

MITCH CONSTRUCTION PASTE Flexible, webby texture forms and separates—great for messy, undone styles. Leaves hair soft and manageable. (75ml) RRP £13.50. paul-mitchell.co.uk.

STORE FRONT 30 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

ANDIS PROFOIL LITHIUM TITANIUM FOIL SHAVER Ultimate tool for fade finishing and removing stubble. Corded/cordless usage with 80 minutes run time. Hypoallergenic foils and quiet rotary motor. Price: 72.00. andis.com.

TENAX MATTE POMADE Water soluble with lasting hold and a matte, shine free finish. Suitable for tidy or messy styles. 125ml.

RRP: £14.50. andbsupply.co.uk

PRODUCTS:MB

DARK STAG BARBER TOOL ROLL Practical tough, hard wearing, split leather tool roll perfect for storing scissors, razors and combs. Keeping your tools in top condition on the move.

Price £32 ex VAT. darkstag.com

BARBERING RESOURCES II BOOK

BY MIKE TAYLOR Comprehensive ultimate easyaccess resource guide for barbershop training from educator and founder of The Great British Barbering Academy. Includes added content such as social media, photography, skin care.

Price: £20. salon-services.com.

SKULL WATER SPRAY IN AMBER

CLUBMAN PINAUD SHAVE ESSENTIALS KIT

Holds 600ml water. Perfect ontrend tool. Price: £2.95 ex VAT. astonandfincher.co.uk.

Perfect for travelling, includes shave soap, Whiskey Woods After-Shave Lotion (117ml), shave brush, wash bag.

Price: £20 each or buy 6 for £15 each inc VAT. barberblades.co.uk

AMERICAN CREW FIBER GROOMING FOAM Unique formula delivering manageable long lasting hold and full volume with heat protection. Ideal for medium and longer length hair. 200ml. Price: £12.90 inc VAT. americancrew.com.

TAKARA BELMONT BARBERSHOP APRON Handmade genuine leather, available in various colours. Multiple pockets, adjustable fit. Limited edition. RRP £120 ex VAT. modasaloninteriors.com.

WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 31

MB:SOCIAL L TO R: ANDREW CANNON, RICHARD TUCKER, SIMON SHAW

RECOGNITION IS PRICELESS Real life recognition that rewards a job well done delivers more than hollow Instagram fame. Richard Tucker (@tuckercuts) of Ruffians (@ruffians) should know…

W

hether you are owner of a small barbershop or a big barbershop business, it’s important to keep team members motivated and all pulling in the same direction. Finding cost effective and high impact ways to acknowledge great performance is often a struggle. Andrew Cannon owner of Ruffians Barbers has five teams across his shop locations. Andrew says “We’re all about ‘the team’ at Ruffians and as the team has grown we’ve wanted to ensure the hard-working, head-down types, who are the lifeblood of the actual barber shop, are NOT forgotten and receive the true recognition and praise for their grind and work. These days there are so many barbers trying to be famous and they are more focused on Instagram than their own column!

We focus on our customers, we don’t want egos in our team. We want to reward our best performers with recognition, motivation and rewards.”

32 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“THESE DAYS SO MANY BARBERS ARE TRYING TO BE FAMOUS AND MORE FOCUSED ON INSTAGRAM THAN THEIR COLUMN!” To make sure that everyone is engaged Ruffians has a range of quarterly incentives, all clearly communicated to the team and designed to inspire and motivate them on certain aspects of their performance. Andrew has set

out the areas that he specifically wants his team to focus on and will stand as a measurement of their success: client retention, rebooking customers, positive reviews both through external means (Google, Social Media), revenue and an internal ‘Most Valuable Barber’ (MVB) measurement. The MVB is a unique peer-to-peer feedback programme.

Andrew looks for rewards that are more of a ‘money can’t buy’ experience that are a true recognition of the value that the Ruffians team member brings to the business and his/her peers. Andrew says “In this case we spoke to Wahl. Ruffians are Wahl Ambassadors, so it was the perfect fit. We arranged for our winner, the fantastic Richard Tucker from our Shoreditch store, to have an all-expenses paid trip to the Wahl Headquarters.

Richard met up with Simon Shaw and was presented with Wahl Cordless Seniors and Detailers. He then spent the day doing a photo and video shoot with a model at the Wahl Academy.”

Richard was rewarded with a unique experience for all of his hard work and cracked out a brilliant cut to be captured professionally – unforgettable!

MB:SOCIAL

CREATIVE PROGRESSION All barbers put hair on the floor for a living but for some pushing their skills and expressing their creativity in new ways has to be part of that process. Jak Finch (@jakfinchhair) of MR Barbers in Colchester is one of those barbers. MB found out more…

F

or Jak Finch barbering was a destination career.

It takes grit to be a 23 year old apprentice working for £460 a month and to move 150 miles just to get the right apprenticeship too. The brave transition was inspired by managing a tattoo shop, the latest of many jobs that Jak had churned through.

Jak says “I can’t even draw so I wasn’t going to pursue a career in tattooing but I loved the sense of loyalty from customers, the creative environment and the atmosphere.

I was at the barbers one day and it just hit me that THIS was what I was looking for. So I started planning. I was massively inspired when a few weeks later I visited the Brighton Tattoo Convention and booked myself for a cut with barber Paul Hewitt. He was so helfpul and so encouraging. I decided that if I was going to make that jump into a new career, then I had to do it right. I looked long and hard and it took 18 months to find the right apprenticeship.” That was back in 2013 and by 2016 he

34 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

SOCIAL:MB

was working alongside Phil Brooks (@vagabondbarber) at MR Barbers (@mrbarbers) in Colchester. He chose MR because it was part of a growing brand and wanted to work his way up, learning as he went. As a newly qualified barber, Jak soaked up inspiration from his experienced colleague and began creating a vision for his future career.

JAK FINCH

“I BELIEVE THAT IN A CREATIVE JOB THE MOMENT YOU STOP LEARNING AND ADAPTING IS WHEN YOU SHOULD STOP AND DO SOMETHING ELSE FOR A LIVING.TO HAVE A BUSY SHOP AND A FULL CHAIR EVERY DAY, YOU NEED TO STAY CURRENT.”

“I believe that in a creative job the moment you stop learning and adapting is when you should stop and do something else for a living. To have a busy shop and a full chair every day, you need to stay current. I really enjoy learning and there is so much available in this industry to learn. I really started pushing my work about two years ago and started capturing my work on camera. It’s a visual way to measure your own progress,” says Jak. Jak loves creating textured styles and while he isn’t a massive fan of the classics, he seeks to always create something wearable and practical for his customers. Being able to master any customer request and tackle any head of hair is important and he concedes that his current weakness is longer lengths.

“There are a lot of barbers transitioning into the industry from hairdressing and you can tell that long hair is a strength. I don’t get much opportunity in my shop as I’m doing eight to ten skin fades a day but I have a couple of clients that trust me to practice. I am also putting some time into practice on mannequin heads and talk to barbers that are good

with it. Understanding how the weight falls in longer hair sends my brain into overdrive but I will master it in time. I definitely don’t want to be the guy that is only using clippers as trends change,” says Jak. Challenging yourself to do more, be more and achieve more as a professional keeps it fresh for customers too and Jak doesn’t mind stepping outside his comfort zone to do that.

“Cal Newsome created a cut called ‘The Orbit’ where the surgical line curves through the haircut and into the beard.

I talked a client into recreating it. It took me so long and made me break out in a sweat. It wasn’t as good as Cal’s but I learned something!” adds Jak. Jak has now taken on the role of manager at MR Barbers (@mrbarbers) in Colchester and recently won ‘Barber of the Year’ at the MR Barber Awards.

A great achievement in a company that employs over 100 barbers. Jak sees working to push his repertoire as an essential element of customer service and can see the influence his shop is making on the town on the streets every day. “I see our job as barbers to help push trends and encourage customers as much as respond to their requests. Customers are now following barber pages on Instagram like @ modernbarbermag for style inspiration and showing me pictures of the kind of cut they want. It’s great because I can think ‘oh I know that barber’. It shows we are all making a difference!”

Follow @jakfinchhair WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 35

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MB:SOCIAL

WHATEVER YOU DO, JUST KEEP ON MOVING FORWARD

H

appy New Year and what a year it promises to be!! Wahl are celebrating our 100 year anniversary and we can’t wait to share some fantastic products, events and competitions with you all.

I’d like to kick off by saying a massive thank you to all of our supporters and fans throughout 2018.

It’s down to you that, even after 100 years in business, we are determined to continue moving forward and providing the best tools for barbers and hair professionals all over the UK. I don’t usually do this but I want to share a personal message… 2018 was one of the toughest years of my life.

I won’t go into too much detail but just before Salon International I had a difficult situation at home. I was fortunate to have friends, family and the entire Wahl team rally round me but with such a big show on the horizon it was important to put the worries to one side and deliver a performance.

I learned that when times are tough, it would have been really easy to lie down and accept defeat but by focusing my attention into something I am passionate about, I was able to pull

38 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“WE WILL BE CONTINUING TO INVEST IN EDUCATION, SO EXPECT BRAND NEW COURSES FROM THE INDUSTRY’S BIGGEST EDUCATORS.” through. A huge thanks to everyone that helped me and continue to help me today. Love you all.

Now, you probably all know that I love an inspirational quote or message, so I’d like to pass on one that helped to

motivate me recently: If you can’t fly then run; if you can’t run then crawl; whatever you do, just keep on moving forward.

This year you will find Wahl at every major exhibition with new Ambassadors performing alongside the industry leading Artistic Team. We will be continuing to invest in education, so expect brand new courses from the industry’s biggest educators. I am seriously buzzing for this year and you should be buzzing too! The demand for barbering is continuing to grow, so make sure you get a good plan together for your shop guys.

Good luck and have a great 2019 everyone!

SOCIAL:MB

PRODUCT OF THE ISSUE: WAHL 100 YEAR ANNIVERSARY CLIPPER

L

eo Wahl didn’t revolutionise an industry, he created one.

Without doubt the best clipper we have ever produced. I love the throwback feel with the full metal casing and metal lever. It’s seriously powerful too. Make sure you snap one up this year as they are only available in 2019.

BARBER OF THE ISSUE: RICHARD TUCKER

P

art of the Ruffians team, Rich is seriously impressing me right now; not just with the quality of his haircuts but the hard work he puts in at the shop. Wahl held a launch party at Ruffians Shoreditch recently and this guy was on top form all evening. Make sure you check him out @tuckercuts.

DATES FOR THE DIARY

BEST ACCESSORY: BALENCIAGA SPEED SOCK SNEAKERS

24-25TH FEBRUARY – HJ LIVE, LONDON 24TH FEBRUARY – LEAGUE CUP FINAL WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 39

Thank You !

We thought about using this space to sell our products, or to promote opportunities to get involved with our growing business. However we decided to take this opportunity to thank the 107 amazing Barbers that make this incredible brand what it is. You are the ones who work hard behind the chair every day setting the standard and creating the family bond that we are all so proud of.

We are looking forward to bigger and better things for everyone in 2019.

WWW.MRBARBERS.CO.UK

THE UK'S BIGGEST RANGE OF BARBERING PRODUCTS FREE NEXT DAY DELIVERY ON ALL UK ORDERS ALL PRICES INCLUDE VAT TRADE ONLY

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EUROPE’S LARGEST BARBER EXHIBITION

JUNE 2ND & 3 RD 2019 TELFORD INTERNATIONAL CENTRE

F R E E T I C K E T S N O W AVA I L A B L E F R O M W W W. B A R B E R C O N N E C T. C O . U K

+44 (0)800 644 0234 - INFO@BARBERCONNECT.CO.UK