MODERN BARBER DIGI GUIDE - July to September

Brands to buy . Services to shop . Stuff to see. july - september 2019

AMERICAN CREW 25 years of style.

Page 30

KEEPING IT KIND

Cruelty-free business with a conscience. Page 18

AMERICAN CREW

GET IN TOUCH EDITOR AND PUBLISHER: Rachel Gould rachel@modernbarber.co.uk

29

DESIGN AND PRODUCTION: Annie Bartley design@anniebartley.co.uk ADVERTISING: rachel@modernbarber.co.uk CONTRIBUTORS: Simon Shaw, Wez Jones COVER CREDITS: Cover: Hair by @barberbarrass and photography by @cutscoolcats FIND US ONLINE: modernbarber.co.uk SOCIAL: IG/Twitter @modernbarbermag, FB Modern Barber Magazine CALL ON: 01295 533755. For all online, print advertising and editorial enquiries, please contact rachel@modernbarber.co.uk Modern Barber Ltd is registered in the UK. Registration number: 06084337. VAT number: 178993237 Registered and correspondence address: Three Acre Barn, Thorpe Road, Upper Wardington, Oxon OX17 1SP. Subscriptions can be securely purchased through: modernbarber.co.uk/subscribe UK SUBSCRIPTIONS: 1 year, 4 issues £20 post paid.

INTL SUBSCRIPTIONS: 1 year, 4 issues £40 post paid.

Printed by Pensord Press Ltd. vwww.pensord.co.uk © Modern Barber Magazine accepts no responsibility for damage or loss, however caused, to any material submitted for publication. While every effort is made to ensure facts are correct at time of going to press, no reponsibility can be accepted for incorrect product descriptions or facts. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without prior written permission from the publishers.

Modern Barber’s circulation has been independently audited and verified by the Audit Bureau of Circulations (abcstandards.org. uk) and reaches over 10,000 independent addresses.

CONTENTS O ISSUE 23 | JULY - SEPTEMBER 2019

ur digital Storefront Guide is the online buddy LIAM HAMILTON AND DAVID HILDREW of each full issue of Modern Barber magazine.

We tip in news, views, shopping inspiration and a slender slice of editorial to give you a taste. This issue we have the enivornment on our minds. Our ‘Keeping it Kind’ feature on page 18 shows ways that barbers up and down the UK are making better choices for our wider world and their own health plus we throw a spotlight on the brands that swerve the plastic and choose cruelty-free formulas. MB loved the live version of BarberComp held at the NEC this past May. The competition ran 45 minute heats with zero prep, so the competitors were given a real time opportunity to show what they could acheive. You can see more about this ruthlessly real competition on page xx. MB sat down wtih a little têtê a têtê lunch with the founder of American Crew, David Raccuglia. This year marks the 25th anniversary of the very first haircare and styling brand created for men. David shared his style story and the images that ultimately built the distincitive American Crew style on page xx. If you would like to sign-up for the full issue of Modern Barber just go to our @modernbarbermag IG bio and follow the link to reguister. It’s totally free!

RACHEL GOULD Editor

10

NEWSROOM 4 Snippets and stories from in, around and on the industry.

10 SALON INTERNATIONAL EXCEL ROUND UP. 12 BEYOND THE BRAND: The Bluebeards pays it forward.

FEATURES 16 KEEPING IT KIND: cruelty-free, ecofriendly and ethical ways to do business.

SHOPPING 24 STOREFRONT: Stuff you need and gear you want.

SOCIAL 28 25 YEARS OF STYLE: David Raccuglia celebrates the hair journey.

32 BARBERCOMP LIVE: how this real time competition went down.

36 THE SHAW THING: home of Simon Shaw’s regular column.

TOP TIPS 38 HOW TO... take care of your tools, handle hair splinters.

WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 3

MB:NEWS

Stories on, in and about the industry…Share your thoughts with us @modernbarbermag

NI BARBER CONVENTION: BIGGEST EVENT YET

TAKARA UK CELEBRATES THEIR 60TH!

T

here are some brands that manage to be both mainstays and pioneers and Takara Belmont is one of them. It was back in 1959 when London, first welcomed the Japanese company to its cultural playground. Following the launch of the now-famous Apollo chair, Takara Belmont installed itself as a trailblazer and icon in the barbering world.

“Our mission was and still is, to deliver equipment that exceeds the needs and expectations of hair professionals and customers, whether it supports the service and technical demands of the barber, or 4 /WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“OUR MISSION WAS AND STILL IS, TO DELIVER EQUIPMENT THAT EXCEEDS THE NEEDS AND EXPECTATIONS OF HAIR PROFESSIONALS AND CUSTOMERS.” the customers’ desire for comfort, luxury and unsurpassed service outcomes,” says Katie Wrighton, Territory Sales Manager at Takara Belmont. Congrats Takara!

F

ounder of the NI Barber Convention Greg McNeil of Bareknuckle Barbershop is looking forward to 28th July. It’s a landmark day for the Northern Irish barbering community as Greg is set to host the largest event to date. The show looks beyond pure barbering to embrace the broader culture of street wear, street food, art, tattooing and beyond. Barber presentations include Hard Grind, Ghost, Notorious Barbers, Slim Fadey, Revanent, Bridey Jo, Cut and Sew, Paddy Corrigan, Garry Jackson, Conor Taaffe and many more.

It’s set to be a fun and inspirational gathering.

Tickets at www.skiddle. com/whats-on/Derry/ The-Guildhall-Derry/NiBarbercon

Barbicide - No pretender Every client, every time

WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 5

MB:NEWS

Stories on, in and about the industry…Share your thoughts with us @modernbarbermag

EMPLOYER TRAINING RECOGNITION FOR HARRY PRESHUR

BARBERSRIDE RIDES AGAIN

T

he third annual Barbers Ride starts on Saturday August 10th at The Speakeasy Barbershop in Liverpool followed by daily events (and many miles riding) at Black Sails in Bath, Baldy’s in Aylesbury, Swagger & Jacks in Norwich, Savills in Sheffield and Ruger in Lytham St Annes. Each event will host a barbering seminar packed with talent including James Beaumont, Alan Beak, Haydn Woodrow and Baldy. Tickets cost £25 and include a goody bag worth £15. If you want to join the ride the full trip costs just £150 and includes a goody bag worth £50 for the first 20 riders. This year the

HEADS UP! DATES FOR THE DIARY 6 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“THE BARBERSRIDE IS RAISING FUNDS FOR THE MAKE-A-WISH FOUNDATION WHICH FULFILS WISHES FOR CHILDREN WITH CRITICAL ILLNESS.” Barbersride is raising funds for the Makea-wish foundation which fulfils wishes for children with critical illness. The sponsors for this year are: Captain Fawcett, Reuzel, Harley Davidson, Hard Grind and American Crew. For more info, sign ups or donations go to barbersride.com.

28TH JULY: NI BARBER CONVENTION, THE GUILDHALL, DERRY. 10TH – 15TH AUGUST: BARBERSRIDE 2019 IN SUPPORT OF THE MAKE-A-WISH FOUNDATION.

H

arry Preshur of Harry’s Barbershop in County Antrim (FB Harry Preshur) is on a high after Belfast Metropolitan College awarded him the ‘Employers Award’ at their ‘Skills and Apprenticeships Awards 2019’. Harry has been helping students by finalising their training in a real world working environment. Sharing skills, experience and time is Harry’s way of supporting his old college and the future of the industry. Well done Harry!

5TH-7TH OCTOBER: SALON INTERNATIONAL EXCEL LONDON. (INC: BRITISH BARBER OF THE YEAR WITH WAHL & BRITAINS BEST COMPETITION WITH THE NHF.) 13TH – 14TH OCTOBER: HJ LIVE MANCHESTER.

The Sky Is The Limit - Modern Barber - PRINT.pdf 1 21/05/2019 09:10:24

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MB:NEWS

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MEN’S EDUCATION STAGE PRESENTATIONS SO FAR…

THE LIONS BARBERS COLLECTIVE ON STAGE AT SALON INTERNATIONAL

SALON INTERNATIONAL ROUND UP

T

he biggest UK trade event in hair happens on October 5th – 7th at Excel London. MB throws a spotlight on the brands and barber education available. Year-on-year barber content to mainstream hair shows grows, creating a destination for barbers to shop, compete, learn, showcase and network. Salon International at Excel London has been rocking the

annual hair calendar for many decades and always pushes to keep content fresh and inspirational. This year there is a ton to take-in, alongside the landmark barbering events like the Wahl Barber of the Year competition at the Wahl Stage. Here’s a round-up of the brands to see and the confirmed talent that will appear on the dedicated men’s education stage…

BRANDS TO SHOP SO FAR AKITO SCISSORS | ANDIS | BBA | BABYLISS PRO | BARBER WAREHOUSE BOOKSY | COOL BLADES | DAPPER DAN | DENMAN | DICK JOHNSON DNG – BARBA ITALIANA | KENT | MORGANS POMADE | NEOCAPE | NHF PANASONIC | SALON TRACKER | SHORTCUTS BARBER | TAKARA BELMONT THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE | TRUSS PROFESSIONAL | WAHL 10 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

Baldy British Female Barbering Association (BFBA) Charlotte Roberts OB Barbers Off-Cut Barbers Gould Barbers Hayden Cassidy Jarred Liddington Johnny BaBa Menspire Manifesto Ross Charles Ruffians Teddy Edwards Cutting Rooms The Wild Hare Tony Haresign Vivienne Howe Wez Jones

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sales@rem.co.uk +44 1282 619977

The Voyager, conceived and designed in the UK by REM See the collection at rem.co.uk

MB:NEWS

BEYOND THE BRAND

Brands that seek out ways to support the wellbeing of its target community can make a positive impact.

LIAM HAMILTON OF ARMOUR TO BARBER AND DAVID HILDREW OF THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE

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ike works with over sixty international organisations designed to benefit children through sport and movement; Innocent Drinks is working to feed hungry children everywhere and Microsoft is solving the REALLY big stuff like infectious disease and poverty, with the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation.

Smart brands are looking beyond their sales funnel to find ways to give back and pay it forward. It happens in barbering too and The Bluebeards Revenge is a great example. The brand’s first foray into charity support was using its packaging and donations to support the Orchid Male Cancer charity. Box interiors were used to raise awareness of testicular cancer and to get men to check their balls frequently to encourage early cancer detection.

Most recently The Bluebeards Revenge is focussing on two very relevant causes close to the hearts and minds of barbers and their customers – mental health and opportunities for ex-military personnel.

Founder and owner David Hildrew says “I’m very excited to be working closely with both the Lions Barber Collective and Armour to Barber, two fantastic organisations that share the same core values as The Bluebeards Revenge.

As an ex-serviceman, I take male depression very seriously. It’s an illness that many military men suffer with in silence. The Lions Barber Collective charity is the perfect way to break down the barriers that men tend to build 12 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“WE ARE ALSO SUPER PROUD TO SUPPORT ARMOUR TO BARBER AND OFFER COMRADESIN-ARMS A FANTASTIC CHANCE TO RETRAIN IN A LUCRATIVE INDUSTRY WITH PLENTY OF OPPORTUNITIES.” DAVID HILDREW, FOUNDER, THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE themselves. Together, we hope to help educate barbers around the world and encourage men to man up and talk. We are also super proud to support Armour to Barber and offer comrades-in-arms a fantastic chance to retrain in a lucrative industry with plenty of opportunities.

These highly-skilled individuals make fantastic barbers and deserve a chance to thrive outside of their military pasts.”

David’s company supports these incredible causes with strong national PR support, communication material, a platform at trade shows, ambassador

support, assistance in fund raising and of course products. The Lions Barber Collective has a dedicated ‘The Bluebeards Revenge Hair Gel’ with bespoke box interior that communicates key messages for the charity, plus the brand shares an ambassador in barber Ken Hermes, a high profile contributor to the cause. Charity isn’t the only way in which The Bluebeards Revenge reinforces barber industry strengths though, as a company that leads with shave products it made perfect sense to create best practice shave training that contributes to CPD hours. The Bluebeards Revenge Shave Day comes right to the barbershop or salon and can be attended by up to eight participants.

Now that’s leading by example!

STOP PRESS THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE HAS BECOME AN OFFICIAL PARTNER FOR WORLD BARBER DAY, WHICH WILL TAKE PLACE THIS YEAR ON SEPTEMBER 16TH. BARBERS FROM AROUND THE WORLD WILL COME TOGETHER TO RAISE MUCH NEEDED FUNDS FOR GLOBAL CHILDREN’S CHARITY UNICEF. THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE WILL BE PROMOTING THE DAY VIA ITS EXTENSIVE DIGITAL CHANNELS AND BARBER AMBASSADORS AS WELL WORKING ON A NATIONAL MEDIA CAMPAIGN. Follow @thebluebeards/ @thelionsbarbers/@armourtobarber

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The ability to book appointments, pay and re-book using the app keeps the flow of people coming so we can build our community” — Inky Steve Jersey Street Social Club

Find out more at shortcuts.co.uk/barber

M B : F E AT U R E

KEEPING IT KIND From commercial waste to the styling products we use and the shoes we wear, there is always a cost and it’s never just the price we pay. MB took a look at barbers that are making conscious choices for the greater good.

I

t’s been years since the UK tested cosmetics and personal care blends on animals however for vegans, environmentalists and supporters of cruelty-free living it still takes concerted effort to remain true to the lifestyle.

Without doubt the human race has made a ton of poor choices, gouging a path that is now impacting our weather systems, our food chain, our health and our future. Thankfully better choices are being made with more information and more options for a conscious lifestyle.

CRUELTY-FREE Michael Anderson owner of Son of a Barber @sonofabarberuk has been 16 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

vegetarian since he was five and despite some teenage failed efforts to love MaccyD’s, he’s never eaten meat. His commitment to veganism came at age 27 after seeing PETA videos on the internet and 18 months ago he went all in on his business to support cruelty-free living.

“At first it’s a nightmare because even a little bit of research shows that so much of the stuff you use and eat is derived from animal cruelty. You have to be consistent over time and not beat people over the head with it. A lot of people see a stereotype when they think of a vegan but just switching to organic oat milk for refreshments and dropping Haribo sweets for the kids starts a conversation with customers,” says Michael. Michael also wears vegan ‘leather’ and uses synthetic brushes not natural bristle. He looked carefully at his product choices and selected Proraso for shaving, IQ Haircare for boost powder and Paul Mitchell brands for the rest.

ORGANIC LIVING Quo Vadis in Margate @quo_vadis_ margate firmly leads with a natural, cruelty free and environmentally friendly ethos.

Owner Tommy Hewitt only uses and sells products that are organic or naturally derived. The shop also sells clothing that is made of organic cotton or recycled materials. All drinks and snacks sold in store are eco-friendly and free of plastic.

Tommy says “We only want to use brands and products that fit the ethos of the shop.

I think it’s important to stay consistent and true to what you believe in. The idea for the shop wasn’t just because it was ‘on trend’ but because it is something that I think is very important in the world right now. I feel that if you stick to your beliefs and stay true to yourself then customers are more likely to believe in your vision.”

Tommy loves EVO, Beardbrand and Triumph and Disaster.

ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY Quarter West Barbershop @quarterwestco in the heart of Belfast City Centre is owned and run by Dan Wild. Dan has a serious commitment to the environment.

Everything but the barber chairs in his shop was created with reclaimed and recycled materials and it’s all cleaned with eco-friendly cleaning products. Dan paid it forward with an investment in LED

TOUGH ENOUGH? The ICE BLAST is a post shave experience you won’t wanna miss. The moment the crackling mousse hits your skin, every sense is activated, making you feel awake, alive and invigorated.

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M B : F E AT U R E light panels and spots, reaping savings long term plus his water boiler has a quadruple chamber to keep water and heating energy to a minimum. Dan says “We have a stringent recycling policy at Quarter West. Every single coffee cup, piece of plastic, can and bottle is put into bags and I personally take these bags to our local recycling depot. This takes time out of my week but I think every little bit helps. Being environmentally friendly is something you need to build into your business model. It’s not a cheap alternative. Your clients need to buy into it.

You have to be passionate about reducing

INSPIRATION ON PRODUCTS NEW

“YOU OWE IT YOURSELF, YOUR CHILDREN AND THEIR CHILDREN TO HAVE LESS OF AN IMPACT AND BE A BETTER HUMAN.” your impact on the environment. Our impact may not be recognised in our lifetimes but that doesn’t mean we should do nothing. We can be great barber shops but we need to be even greater humans.

You owe it to yourself, your children and their children to have less of an impact and be a better human.” Dan uses and loves the EVO brand for its cruelty free and ‘clean’ blends, recycled packaging and policy on the environment.

NEW

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MVRCK BY MITCH GROOMING SPRAY: adds texture and volume, gives hair added height, buildable hold and natural shine with an energizing agave citrus scent.

Never tested on animals!

Cruelty free.

THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE SYNTHETIC DOUBLOON SHAVING BRUSH: vegan friendly synthetic bristles that create lather fast, dry fast and is easy to maintain.

MR MUK THICKENING & TEXTURISING SHAMPOO: builds volume and leaves hair full and textured. Cruelty free, PETA approved and in 100% recyclable packaging.

THE NATURAL BARBER CO ZEUS POMADE: for classic slick back looks with a glossy natural shine, controls thick coarse hair without a greasy finish. Medium hold.

Recyclable packaging, cruelty free and ocean safe.

OSMO AQUA WAX HARD: water-soluble, firm hold wax for use on short to medium hair. Completely cruelty free and vegan-friendly.

STROPT SAFETY RAZOR HONING PAD: vegetable tanned leather on FSC credited hardwood.

Five strokes lengthens the life of a razor by up to five times reducing plastic waste.

SCARY STATS 50% OF ALL PLASTIC MANUFACTURED IS DESTINED FOR SINGLE USE AND TAKES UP TO 1000 YEARS TO DECOMPOSE. EARTH.ORG

EVERY QUARTER POUNDER YOU EAT REQUIRES THE SAME AMOUNT OF WATER IN PRODUCTION AS TWO MONTHS OF SHOWERING. MATADORNETWORK.COM

LED BULBS CONSUME

ONLY 10% OF THE ENERGY REQUIRED BY REGULAR BULBS. ARCADIAPOWER.CO.UK 18 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

RESOURCES PETA.ORG | GREENCHOICES.ORG VEGANSOCIETY.COM | SOILASSOCIATION.ORG

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MB:ADVERTORIAL

MR MUK. COMMITS TO:

YES! PROFESSIONAL BARBER EXCLUSIVE PRODUCTS Mr Muk. commits to barbershops with a clean, fuss-free range that works for your customer and your cashflow.

I

t’s frustrating for barbers to see the brands they love and recommend available outside their shop doors.

It’s a frustration that’s shared by the exclusive distributor of Mr Muk. a contemporary NEW grooming range whose creators have thought long and hard about a barber’s commercial and creative needs. Alan Maxwell of Muk UK has worked closely with the Australian parent, brand innovators Muk, to deliver on something that’s not just a promise, it’s an oath. Alan says “What we hear from the industry loud and clear is that there is a need for professional barber products that are only available to and through professional barbers. That’s why we have created a dedicated range that respects the barber. We want our barbers’ customers to buy their products from their barber time and again. We will do our bit and we really want to work with shops that 22 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

don’t discount on the RRP and that commit to not selling anywhere online via any platform.”

Mr Muk is not a clichéd, try-hard, macho barber brand but a sophisticated contemporary range with clean formulations and a Prada Homme inspired fragrance. The sleek monochrome packaging has high impact shelf appeal and oozes a quality that reflects the carefully selected ingredients. “We’ve started with a compact range that ticks all the boxes in terms of cleanse, style and grooming but the best part is the price point! £12.95 for the pastes and clays and just £9.95 for the shampoos.

It’s affordable for the client and includes an attractive margin for the business,” explains Alan.

Mr Muk is available from UK Distributor Eos Hair & Beauty. For further information on Mr Muk and *intro packs call 02476 661906 or visit www.mukhairuk.com

PROFESSIONAL BARBER ONLY DISTRIBUTION NO ONLINE retailers NO SALES to ladies salons NO SALES to mobile hairdressers

MR MUK. PROMISES TO: MONITOR THE ONLINE SHOPPING ARENA and will take ACTION if products are discovered being sold outside of the professional barbershop channel. Mr Muk will not tolerate any sales on EBAY, Amazon, FB, Gumtree, Etsy, business websites or similar and requires all approved retailers to honour RRP.

BONUS:

ALL PRODUCTS are cruelty free, PETA approved and in 100% recyclable packaging. *Mr Muk. Intro Pack also includes eight products free of charge with a potential value of £93.60.

style - aesthetic - individuality e s t. 2 0 0 6

INTRODUCING a new category in men’s haircare...mr muk

100% PROFESSIONAL BARBER EXCLUSIVE. NOT AVAILABLE TO LADIES SALONS, MOBILES OR ONLINE RETAILERS. muk haircare uk agrees to provide barbers with a 100% money back guarantee if we change our distribution policy* we stand by our word when we mean mr muk is professional barber exclusive.

Want to know more?

Call 024 7666 1906 www.mukhairuk.com

* conditions apply.

MB:PRODUCTS

AMERICAN CREW BOOST POWDER

NEW

BEST SELLER. Gives hair lift, flexible hold, thickness and a matte finish. RRP £15.20 / €17.50. (10g) americancrew.com

WAHL 100 YEAR ANNIVERSARY CLIPPER Perfect for bulk removal and tapering.

Powerful rotary motor, corded/cordless usage, 70 minute run time, adjustable taper lever, lithium battery. Limited edition. RRP £179.99 ex VAT. wahl.co.uk

NEW & IMPROVED

MR MUK STRONG HOLD ULTRA MATTE PASTE Non-greasy, water-soluble and strong hold paste with a shine free matte finish. Adds volume, thickness and texture. 100g. RRP £12.95. mukhairuk.com/mr-muk/

MADE FOR THE BLADE POST SHAVE ICE BLAST Awakens the senses and invigorates the skin. NEW Crackling Mouse technology releases the key ingredients to seal and protect after the shave. Cooling menthol and soothing lotus blossom formula leaves skin protected and refreshed. 150ml.

RRP £5.99. madefortheblade.com

DARK STAG KAMISORI RAZOR Straight handled razor uses regular double edge razor blades. Spring mounted one touch blade holding mechanism can be opened easily for cleaning and disinfecting. Perfect for shaping, styling and shaving. Price: £36.00 ex VAT. darkstag.com.

KANSAS BARBER CHAIR Sunken headrest, slimmer backrest, lowered seat pad, same premium quality hydraulics and folding footrest. SPECIAL OFFER £495 plus VAT when quoting ‘MODERNBARBER’. Call 01455 553558. salonequipmentcentre.co.uk

STORE FRONT 24 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

BARBERSKIT HAIR GRIPPERS – SIT STILL OR I’LL CUT YA The Barbers Kit hair grippers safely section away hair without any girly clips and carries an important message for your fidgety customers – sit still or I’ll cut ya! Pack of two. Price: £6.00 inc VAT. barberskit.co.uk.

PRODUCTS:MB

GRAHAM HILL HANGAR ROUGH PASTE Perfect for making fine hair look fuller and adding structure. Gives a natural hold and a matte finish for all short cuts. Fresh masculine scent.

RRP £13.00. barberblades.co.uk

NEW

MALETTI ZEUS EASY BARBER CHAIR Traditionally styled reclining barber chair with heavy-duty durable frame.

Stunning upholstery and designed for comfort. High quality spec. SPECIAL OFFER usually £1845 ex VAT. NOW £995 ex VAT while stocks last. Call 01670 738979. albertewandesign.com.

SPECIAL OFFER

THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE SEA SALT SPRAY A premium-quality sea salt spray that is specially designed with sea salt minerals to give men a natural look that adds hold, volume, texture and wave. 200ml.

Price: £9.99. bluebeards-revenge.co.uk.

DENMAN JACK DEAN FADE BRUSH Perfect size with extra-soft bristle to gently remove hair to clear the way for the perfect fade. Price: £6.25. denmanbrush.com.

MADE FOR THE BLADE CLIPPER SPRAY 5-in-1 clipper spray to lubricate, cool, clean, maintain and sterilise. Reduces friction for a cooler, smoother run. Powerful spray blows hair and dirt away and maintains the blade for a cleaner, long lasting cut. Effectively kills bacteria, inhibits fungus and has anti-viral properties. 400ml. RRP: £5.99. madefortheblade.com.

TAKARA BELMONT THE LEGEND FULLY MOTORISED BARBER CHAIR Ultimate in luxury and comfort. Fully motorised reclining chair in black leather. Durable, high quality and ergonomically designed.

Price: £5995. takarahairdressing.co.uk.

NEW

MVRCK BY MITCH DRY PASTE Medium hold, matte finish. Lightweight formula for a gritty texture that won’t flake. Can be cocktailed with other blends in the range. 113g. RRP £18.95. paulmitchell.com/mitch/mvrck WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 25

WHAT ARE YOU WORKING WITH? SAVE 15% ON OUR BARBER-GRADE RANGE WITH CODE MB15.

DIRECT CUSTOMERS ONLY. SEE TERMS, CONDITIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS BELOW.

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trade@bluebeards-revenge.co.uk | +44 (0)1752 898 193 HOW TO USE: 1. Apply for an online trade account at bluebeards-revenge.co.uk/trade and use code MB15 at checkout. 2. Email trade@bluebeards-revenge.co.uk, quoting MB15. 3. Phone +44(0)1752 898193 and speak to an account manager, quoting MB15. Terms & conditions: Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. Can only be used once per customer. The offer expires at 11.59pm on 30/09/2019.

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MB:SOCIAL

93-LAUNCH “A lot of the products available for men’s styling were too heavy. I wanted to create a range that was light, classic and that washed out. These images were shot in NYC and Trumpers in London at a time when we were testing before launching the products.”

94-95 “This typified the first early glimpse of the classic American Crew image. At this time I had started to shoot my own photography because I had an incredible team to take care of the hair. There was a heavy Armani inspiration here.”

25 YEARS OF STYLE This year American Crew turned 25. MB sat down with founder David Raccuglia to learn more about the style journey and what it takes to stay relevant.

28 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

SOCIAL:MB

95-2000

NOUGHTIES

“American Crew became part of the Revlon family in 1996. A lot of our imagery at that time was shot on Polaroid and had a great vibe. There was a mod inspiration here and a choppy texture that captured the trend at the time. Our images always reflect variety…a shorter, mid and longer length.”

DAV ID RAC CUG LIA

“This was a period of time when Crew was growing up. We had grown massively in volume and expanded globally, expanding a team into Europe. These images really reflect longer looks and contemporary texture, capturing the trends of the time.”

“AMERICAN CREW HAS ALWAYS BEEN ABOUT DEFINING THE CLASSIC MAN. TODAY A FULL BEARD AND A FULL SLEEVE TATTOO IS A CLASSIC LOOK. REMAINING CURRENT MEANS ALWAYS ECHOING AND AMPLIFYING THE WAYS IN WHICH A MAN CAN FEEL AND LOOK HANDSOME.” DAVID RACCUGLIA. @AMERICANCREWUK

2013-NOW

“These images celebrate the return to classic barbering. Beards, smart suits, long lean looks that are handsome and masculine.”

WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 29

LONDON EXCEL LONDON 5-7 OCTOBER 2019 PRESENTED BY

Join the best in barbering Over 400 brands Latest tools & equipment Free education HJ Men Stage Barber of the Year

Book now and get 10% off your entry ticket* with code MB10.

Visit www.salonshow.co.uk/MB or call the ticket hotline on 0844 581 4915 (UK) or (0)121 796 6291 (Overseas). *Applies to new bookings only

www.salonshow.co.uk #Salon19

MB:SOCIAL

REAL LIFE MEETS COMPETITION LIFE Entering competitions isn’t a measure of real life barbering, right? WRONG?

K

elly Alexander and Alex Baker had an idea, then they had a website, then they started a live barbering competition.

The rest is history. Kelly and Alex are the brains behind BarberComp (barbercomp. com/@barber_comp) a monthly online barber competition they created in September 2018 while running their barbershop in Hereford. Kelly says “There is so much talent in the industry and we wanted to create a platform for people to share their work and level the playing field. It’s low risk, low commitment and it doesn’t matter if you’ve been cutting for 20 years or 2 months. If you have something to show and something to share then give it a go. We found a website designer and coder in Canada and created a way for people to upload images, share their entry and get votes.” The competition runs monthly and will soon have additional categories including student, afro, contemporary, patterns and classic. The winner takes away a juicy goody bag from supporting brands, BarberComp merch and a certificate. When Kelly and Alex

32 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“B AR BE RCOM P IS A GR EAT CO M PE TI TI ON TO AL LO W BA RB ER S TO SH OW CA SE TH EI R W OR K AN D GE T RE COGN IT IO N. TH E OV ER AL L STAN DA RD OF BA RB ER IN G IN TH E UK IS FA NTASTI C AN D IT RE AL LY SH OW ED IN TH IS LI VE CO M PE TI TI ON.”M IK E TAYLOR

SOCIAL:MB

“I THOUGHT THE COMPETITION WAS AWESOME. REALLY WELL ORGANISED! COMPETITIONS ARE A GREAT WAY TO BUILD YOUR CONFIDENCE. IT’S SO IMPORTANT TO REMEMBER, IT’S THE TAKING PART THAT COUNTS. USE THE OPPORTUNITY TO MAKE NEW FRIENDS, NETWORK AND BUILD YOUR CONFIDENCE AND TAKE IN THE EXPERIENCE.” LUKA CHITTY got the opportunity to run a live version at Hair UK at the NEC last May, they jumped at the chance. There were 12 competitors in the first Britain’s Best Barber BarberComp judged by Colin Petrie of Hard Grind, Ryan Cullen of Ryan Cullen Hair, Vikki HarrisonSmith of SB Barbering Academy and Luka Chitty of Luka’s Barbers. Each competitor had 45 minutes to cut a model from scratch with zero prep. The finalists were Vincent Quinn (@vincent_hardgrind) of Hard Grind and Dale Hince (@dalehince_barber) of Clip House Barbershop. Vince and Dale then competed for the top spot by cutting hair on identical twins – now you can’t get fairer than that. Vince was pipped at the post and Dale bagged the title of Britain’s Best Barber 2019!

WELL DONE EVERYONE! DALE HINCE - WINNER VINCENT QUINN – FINALIST

L TO R: FINALISTS FINALIST VINCEVINCENT QUINN AND WINNER DALE HINCE QUINN AND DALE HINCE

COMPETITORS - ALEX POCRNIC, DARREN JONATHAN, ALISHA STORRIE, TONY FORREST, MATTHEW JAMES, LEE DIXON, MARCO PARRY, LAUREN SMITH, KYLE HOLLOWAY, BILLY SAVAGE.

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Apollo 2 Icon, the diamond-quilted Apollo with contrast piping.

M E N ’ S G RO O M I N G P RO D U C T S

Exclusive Care, Styling & Shaving Products grahamhill-cosmetics.com Exclusively sold by

in the UK

MB:SOCIAL

ALWAYS BE PREPARED TO WORK HARDER THAN ANYONE ELSE.

I

hope you’re all having a wonderful summer and that your shops are busy and you’re earning some money! I’m currently on my Global Tour, teaching my ‘Complete Presenter’ training to some of our Wahl Artistic teams around the world. So far I’ve been to the USA (twice), China, Dubai, Canada and India, so I’m pretty tripped out!

Whilst I was travelling, one of our Wahl China Artistic team members asked me “How have you maintained your position at the top for 20 years?” Well, I soon corrected him and said 30 years!

But really I have been doing the show circuit for 27 years and I would like to share some of my secrets that have helped to maintain my position with Wahl for the past 19 years. Hopefully it might be useful to some readers who are just starting out in their presenting career. Firstly, I never congratulate myself too much or berate myself too much either - try to keep a good balance.

Secondly, I’ve always surrounded myself with excellent people, which really keeps me focused! I’ve always asked for help or brought in specialised people if I’m struggling. Asking for help is a sign of strength, not weakness. Thirdly, always and I mean always, be super-prepared 36 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“ASKING FOR HELP IS A SIGN OF STRENGTH, NOT WEAKNESS.” for every event no matter how big or small. Remember, always be prepared to work harder than anyone else. My last piece of advice is to be humble, I believe my Yorkshire roots really help me to get the best out of my team – I really enjoy the man-management side of my role. I do love my job!

FAVOURITE ACCESSORIES: LOVE THESE TRAINERS BY 7 FEET AND THE BOSE SOUNDSPORT WIRELESS HEADPHONES IN ORANGE IS A MUST-HAVE FOR YOUR HOLS.

SOCIAL:MB

PRODUCT OF THE ISSUE: 100 YEAR ANNIVERSARY CLIPPER.

BARBERSHOP OF THE ISSUE R.W.WOLF, LONDON @RWWOLFBARBERS

T

his limited edition clipper has a full aluminium metal casing, perfectly balanced with a powerful rotary motor, high speed blade, increased torque, adjustable taper and 70 minute run and charge time. Get one before they’ve gone!

CAL NEWSOME

BARBER OF THE ISSUE: CAL NEWSOME

O

wner of the Bull & Co Barbershop in Wolverhampton, Cal is an up and coming superstar.

Make sure you check him out @cal_newsome

DATES FOR THE DIARY

23RD-25TH AUGUST: LEEDS & READING FESTIVALS 10TH AUGUST: START OF THE PREMIER LEAGUE WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 37

M B :T I P S

HOW TO…KEEP YOUR TOOLS MATCH FIT.

HOW TO… DEAL WITH HAIR SPLINTERS. Hair splinters are an industry curse and can be pretty damn serious depending on where you get them! MB did a little research to uncover the best prevention and cures.* • Prevention first. Wear enclosed shoes – the soft tissue around the toenail and between the toes is easily penetrated, so try and avoid flip flops. Rinse hands between cuts to stop shards from working their way into the skin.

W

ez Jones (@wez_jones) of The HeartBreak Club in Leigh-on-Sea loves his BaByliss PRO tools. His busy shop is non-stop so he’s rigorous about keeping his tools in top condition so he can keep knocking out the cuts. Wez says “So I have a routine on clipper care and it’s pretty much the same regardless of which clipper I’m using.” Wez’s tool care tips…

4: Oil the head and moving parts and wipe away any excess. Then reassemble the clipper and run it for 30 seconds to let the oil seep into the mechanism.

Give it one last wipe.

1: Brush out any visible hair from the clipper head and then break the clipper down.

2: Brush away shards from the top, inside the head and inside the clipper then use a hairdryer to blast away any damp hair or anything caught.

3: Use a sterilising spray and thoroughly spray the head and clipper inside and out. This is so important for hygiene and to help the clipper stay lubricated.

Wipe away excess.

WEZ FINISHES EVERY DAY ON THIS ROUTINE. PLUS HE SPRAYS THE CLIPPER BETWEEN CLIENTS AND ON BUSY DAYS HE WILL TAKE A FEW MINUTES IN THE DAY FOR CLIPPER MAINTENANCE. 38 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

• Obvious one but if you can see the end of the splinter then grab it with tweezers and pull it out.

• Suck it out. Try the Calpol syringe trick. Press and hold the flat end of the closed syringe over the splinter and pull the plunger with your teeth (or ask a friend).

• Magnesium Sulphate Paste.

Cover the splinter and pop over a dressing or plaster and then let the drawing paste do its magic. Paste is available at chemists and online.

• Eye splinters. Fill a small dosage cup from medicines like Night Nurse with cooled boiled water and hold over your eye while blinking. If that doesn’t work get to A&E. If the site of the splinter becomes red, hot or inflamed or is visibly infected don’t mess with it…go to A&E or your Doctor. *If you have any concerns, see a healthcare professional… quick!

quality european furniture at affordable prices expert salon planning and design

ZEUS EASY USUALLY LIST Price£1845 +vat

£995+VAT LIMITED STOCKS AVAILABLE

t.016 70 73 89 79 w.albertewandesign.com

THE LIST BARBER SUPPLIERS Coolblades Ltd. Unit 5 Wyre Court, Bracewell Ave, Poulton-le-Fylde, FY6 8JF T: 01253 893091. E: cb-info@coolblades.co.uk.

W: www.coolblades.co.uk Barber Blades. Charnwood Park, 3, Clos Marion, Cardiff, CF10 4LJ. T: 0800 644 0234. W: barberblades.co.uk Salon Services. Nationwide. Call for local store info.

T: 0330 123 1907. W: salon-services.com

BARBER TRAINING Great British Barber Academy. 26 Wimborne Road, Poole, Dorset, BH15 2BU. T: 01202 287143.

E: info@greatbritishbarberingacademy.com.

W: www.greatbritishbarberingacademy.com

FURNITURE

Our quick reference guide to the products and services that love serving your industry.

MVRCK by Mitchl. Salon Success Ltd, 1-2 Millenium Point, Broadfields, Aylesbury, Bucks, HP19 8YH T: 0845 659 0012 E: helloclub@salon-success.co.uk W: www.paul-mitchell.co.uk The Bluebeards Revenge. Unit One, Langage, Business Park, Eagle Road, Plymouth, PL7 5JY. T: 01752 898191 E: info@bluebeards-revenge.co.uk W: www.bluebeards-revenge.co.uk

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT Andis. Available at all good barber suppliers.W:andis.com Babyliss Pro UK. The Conair Group Ltd, Prospect Court, 3 Waterfront Business Park, Fleet, Hampshire, GU51 3TW. T: 0370 513 3191. W: www.bablylisspro.co.uk Denman International. Clandeboye Road, Bangor, Co. Down, B20 3JH. T: 028 9146 2141. W: denmanbrush.com Kent Brushes. London Road, Apsely, Hemel Hempstead, Herts, HP3 9SA. T: 01442 232623.

E: customerservices@kentbrushes.com.W: kentbrushes.com

Albert Ewan Ltd. 28 Hayton Close, Cramlington, Northumberland, NE23 2FN T: 01670 738 979 E: albert@albertewandesign.com W: albertewandesign.com

Made for the Blade. The Hair Movement Ltd, Unit 33, Flexi Business Park, Western Trading Estate, Caerphilly, CF83 1BE E: customerservice@thehairmovement.com T: 029 2132 0101 W: madefortheblade.com

Barber Equipment Centre. Leicester Road, Lutterworth, LE17 4HF. T: 01455 553 558. E: info@salonequipmentcentre.co.uk.

W: salonequipmentcentre.co.uk

Neocape Gowns. Thesis Technology, Products Ltd. S15 Brooks Green Farm, Brooks Lane, Chichester, West Sussex, PO18 8JX. E: info@neocape.co.uk T: 01243 573417 W: neocape.co.uk

Moda Salon Interiors. 1st Floor 4A, Brittany Court, High Street South, Dunstable, Beds, LU6 3HR. T: 0800 999 6446. E: sales@modasaloninteriors.com.

W: www.modasaloninteriors.com

Wahl UK. Sterling House, Clipper Close, Ramsgate Kent, CT12 5GG. T: 01227 740066.

E: customer.services@wahl.co.uk. W: www.wahl.co.uk

REM UK Ltd. Glenfield Mill, Glenfield Road, Nelson, Lancashire, BB9 8AW. T: 01282 619977.

E: sales@rem.co.uk. W: www.rem.co.uk Takara Belmont . Belmont House, 1 St Andrews Way, Bow, London, E3 3PA. T: 0207 515 0333.

E: katie@takara.co.uk. W: www.takarahairdressing.co.uk

PRODUCTS American Crew. Revlon Professional, Ground Floor, Greater London House, Hampstead Road, London, NW1 7QX. T: 0207 391 7440.

E: customerservice.uk@revlon.com.

W: www.americancrew.com MR MUK. Eos Hair & Beauty, C1 Little Heath Industrial Estate, Old Church Road, Coventry, CV6 7ND T: 02476 661906 E: alan.maxwell@eoshb.com W: mukhairuk.com/mr-muk/

40 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

SHOP SERVICES NHF/NBF. One Abbey Court, Fraser Road, Priory Business Park, Bedford, MK44 3WH. T: 01234 831965. E: enquiries@nhf.info.

W: www.nhf.info PPL PRS. Mercury Place, St George’s Street, Leicester, LE1 1QG. T: 0800 0720 808. W: www.pplprs.co.uk

SOFTWARE AND APPS Premier Software. 9 & 10 Heritage Park, Hayes Way, Cannock, Staffordshire, WS11 7LT. T: 01543 466580. E: sales@premiersoftware.co.uk.

W: www.premiersoftware.uk Shortcuts Software/Shortcuts Barber. Dalton House, Dane Road, Sale, M33 7AR. T: 0161 972 4900 W: www.shortcuts.co.uk

Oxfordshire’s Multi Award Winning Gentlemen’s Barber Shop 10 Seat Barber Shop | VIP Area | 100 Years Experience Under One Roof

01869 244 488 | info@andysbarbers.biz C4 Pioneer Square, Bicester, Oxfordshire OX26 6FA

andysbarbers.biz

Multi-Award Winning Barber Shop

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