MB Storefront Shopping Guide - April to June

Brands to buy . Services to shop . Stuff to see.

APRIL - JUNE 2019

THE COLOUR ISSUE

The barbers building revenue with colour services.

HAIR:BRUCE BAILLIE PHOTO: LIAM OAKES

GET IN TOUCH EDITOR AND PUBLISHER: Rachel Gould rachel@modernbarber.co.uk DESIGN AND PRODUCTION: Annie Bartley design@anniebartley.co.uk ADVERTISING: rachel@modernbarber.co.uk CONTRIBUTORS: Simon Shaw, Baldy.

COVER CREDITS: Cover image: hair by Bruce Baillie, photography by Liam Oakes, model George Burgess.

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Modern Barber’s circulation has been independently audited and verified by the Audit Bureau of Circulations (abcstandards.org. uk) and reaches over 10,000 independent addresses.

4 SNIPPETS AND STORIES from in, around and on the industry.

CONTENTS T ISSUE 22 | APRIL - JUNE 2019

he spring issue is packed with refreshing content that could grow your revenue and build your business. Take a look at page 12 for our feature on the barbers that are adding revenue with colour services . Catch up on our Tech Round-Up on page 22 for ways to help you work smarter not harder. Don’t forget to swing by Storefront to see the latest batch of products, equipment and furniture on the market. Last quarter MB worked with sponsor WAHL to give five young apprentice and trainee barbers the opportunity to experience a professional photoshoot wiht industry photographyer Liam Oakes. See how the day went down on page 28. It was incredible to see how brilliantly these young barbers rose to the challenge and the day went like clcokwork. MB is looking forward to seeing familiar faces and meeting new readers at the upcoming shows this quarter. We’ve teamed up with Barbercomp.com and the Great British Barbering Academy to give platform opportunities at Barber UK in Birmingham in May (see social media for more information) and you can find out what’s happening at Barber Connect in June by checking our feature on page 8. Hopefully we will catch you there!

RACHEL GOULD Editor

08 WHAT’S OCCURRING at Barber Connect?

FEATURES 12 THE COLOUR ISSUE: the barbers making a hue and cry about colour.

22 TECH ROUND-UP: tech that ticks boxes for barbers.

SHOPPING 26 STOREFRONT: Stuff you need and gear you want.

SOCIAL 28 WAHL APPRENTICE SHOOT COMPETITION: five apprentice winners hit the studio.

32 NO POACHING!: Baldy throws light on this poor practice.

36 THE SHAW THING: home of Simon Shaw’s regular column.

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TOP TIPS 42 HOW TO: boss the perfect shapeup; support employees suffering poor mental health.

44 THE LIST: your go-to list for the brands that love barbers.

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MB:NEWS

Stories on, in and about the industry…Share your thoughts with us @modernbarbermag

MR. BARBERS ANNOUNCES MACMILLAN CANCER SUPPORT PARTNERSHIP

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WAHL MEN’S METHOD JOINS FORCES WITH INTERSERVE

nterserve Learning & Employment has launched the Wahl Men’s Method training programme, following its appointment as Wahl’s first certified UK training provider. Simon Shaw, Wahl UK’s Global Artistic Director says “The Men’s Method is the most elite training programme for barbers and men’s hairdressers in the UK and we only want to work with and accept the very, very best in terms of providers. We feel that Interserve has what it takes to join us and to deliver this exclusive programme as part of their barbering apprenticeship.”

Amber Massey, ILE’s Head of Sector for Hair, Beauty & Barbering adds “Our training specialists will all be Wahl endorsed and benefit from ongoing CPD from Wahl’s Global Artistic Director, Simon Shaw. Having the Wahl Men’s Method 4 /WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“OUR TRAINING SPECIALISTS WILL ALL BE WAHL ENDORSED AND BENEFIT FROM ONGOING CPD FROM WAHL’S GLOBAL ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, SIMON SHAW.” Certificate in addition to an industry recognised apprenticeship will not only make the barbers of tomorrow more employable but set them up with the fundamental support and skills required to succeed in their careers.” www.learning-employment.com @interserveLE

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R. Barbers @mrbarbers Group has selected Macmillan Cancer Support as their chosen charity for a year of ongoing activity to raise funds for this worthy cause. As a business that now has over 25 shops it made perfect sense to organise group wide activity that will make a significant positive impact with fundraising for Macmillan. MR. Barbers Director Sam Prior says “Our brilliant barbers are proactive in charity work already so it made sense to pool resources and make a big impact for a worthy cause with a cross company campaign. We are also supporting Macmillan’s new ‘just say the word’ initiative which encourages men with cancer to take control of their health and seek the support they need.” Recent research from Macmillan shows that men are 22% more likely to get cancer than women but less than half as likely to contact the Macmillan Support Line. MR Barbers is aiming to raise over £26,000 which could pay for a Macmillan nurse for six months, helping people living with cancer and their families receive essential medical, practical and emotional support. Keep an eye on their social media for ways to donate.

MB:NEWS GEMMA WILLOCK-SMITH UK ALL-STAR CHALLENGE WINNER

CHRIS O’RIORDAN IRELAND ALL-STAR CHALLENGE WINNER

ANNOUNCED: AMERICAN CREW ALL-STAR CHALLENGE WINNERS UK & IRELAND

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arch 2019, London: ALL-STAR Challenge is the biggest global men’s hair competition and this year was a stellar year for the brand as it celebrates its 25th Anniversary. There were hundreds of entries judged over a full day of deliberation by five judges. Entries are unnamed for judging and every image is allocated marks for eight separate criteria before the totals are totted up. The 23 finalists for UK & Ireland gathered to hear the results at The Curtain Hotel in Shoreditch in March. The atmosphere was electric as the finalists gathered on stage for their moment in the spotlight. Surrounded by barbers and industry influencers, American Crew (@ameriancrewuk) took a moment to celebrate all of UK & Ireland finalists before announcing Gemma Willock-Smith @gws_barber from Frequency Barber for UK winner and Chris O’Riordan @chrisoriordanhair of Sean Taaffe Group for Ireland. Runners up included: Kieran Evans, Jacks of London for UK and Barry Kieran of Signature Hair for Ireland.

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“ABSOLUTELY OVER THE MOON. LAST YEAR I WON AND THE COMPETITION WAS SO TOUGH, TO DO IT AGAIN THIS YEAR… WELL I JUST CAN’T BELIEVE IT. I COULDN’T ASK FOR MORE.” Gemma says “I can’t explain it in words, I am so overwhelmed it feels incredible. It just hasn’t sunk in, I am so excited! ”Chris says “Absolutely over the moon. Last year I won and the competition was so tough, to do it again this year…well I just can’t believe it. I couldn’t ask for more.” These two country winners now go on to the next round of selection where the 15 best images from across the globe are chosen to compete in the Global All-Star Final held in New York in May. American Crew says a big thank you to everyone that invested their time and talent to compete in ALL-STAR Challenge.

Stories on, in and about the industry…Share your thoughts with us @modernbarbermag

TEAM CHALLENGE FROM ANDY’S BARBERS

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ancy a game of footy? Andy’s Barber Shop @andysbarbers_ bicester is looking for friendly matches against other barber shop teams. Owner Andy Willis loves his football and is a huge fan of Oxford United, he even counts some of the players as customers. A few years back he put together a friendly team of barbers and customers, “We’ve had some great games over the years playing local clubs but I thought it’d be great to see if there are other barbershops out there in the UK with a team, or just fancy getting one together for a match. If anyone is interested just send us an email info@ andysbarbers.biz,” says Andy.

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MB:NEWS

BARBER CONNECT 2019

Make a date with the biggest weekend of the barbering calendar on 2nd to 3rd June at Telford International Centre by booking your FREE tickets at barberconnect.co.uk.

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FREE ENTRY FREE EDUCA TIO FREE PARKIN N G

tock up on new kit, scout for products, soak up all the FREE education on offer, network and catch up with old friends. Barber Connect is now in its seventh year and remains the only dedicated barber exhibition in the UK. MB has had word that there will be plenty of special show offers, bundle prices and bargains available for savvy shoppers plus exclusive launches from big brands including the Babyliss Foil Shaver.

Headline sponsors are: Wahl, Jack Dean, Clubman Pinaud and Barber Blades. The two huge stages – The Wahl Stage and the International Stage from Clubman Pinaud will be packed with talent sharing their skills including the Wahl Artistic Team and special guests, Matty Conrad from Victory Brand and

Barber, Menspire, Spaghettis Italy and much more PLUS many exhibitors will be showcasing their brands through live demos. Don’t forget to book your hotel room as you won’t want to miss the Sunday night special event that Clubman Pinauld has in store for you.

“IF YOU WANT TO BE AT THE CUTTING EDGE OF THE INDUSTRY WHY WOULDN’T YOU ATTEND BARBER CONNECT. THIS SHOW IS AWESOME! THE LARGEST BARBERING SHOW IN THE WORLD!” HASSAN DEMARCO, CLUBMAN PINAUD Exhibitor stands to watch out for: Wahl, Andis, Takara Belmont, The Bluebeards Revenge, Edwin Jagger, NHF and many more.

Stories on, in and about the industry…Share your thoughts with us @modernbarbermag 8 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

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N E W Apollo 2 Icon with Classic heelrest: head to heel forever iconic.

M B : F E AT U R E HAIR: JARRED LIDDINGTON

THE COLOUR ISSUE

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Barbershops are all about customer centred service, so when an increasing number of men want to bring a little colour into their life. How do you handle it?

n a recent social media poll MB asked ‘Does your barbershop offer colour services?’ and 27% of respondents said ‘Yes’! A growing number of shops are either inspiring their customers to try colour or meeting the rising demand from clients picking up on trends from their peers and the media. High lift tints, pop colours, peroxide, slices, lights, flashes and all over colour changes are all on the menu. Naturals and grey coverage are still where it’s at for the more mature client or those in white collar professions but anything goes for younger customers. MB’s cover star Jarred Liddington @jarredsbarbers of Jarreds Barbers in Lydney, leads by example and frequently colours his own hair…from acid green to bleach blonde and everything in between…customers caught on quickly and now around 15% of his customers have colour. “When we first opened only around 5% of our customers had colour services but the more work we 12 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

HAIR: TOM BAXTER

did, the more we got, as word-of-mouth has spread. Our work now ranges from all over brights to highlights or flashes. I had a basic knowledge of colour from my early start in hairdressing but it was really out of self-interest and experimenting with my own hair that allowed me to grow that service. It adds a creative dimension

to a cut and gives customers another way to express their look. When I planned the shop, I planned a backwash with colour in mind. Prices start from £5 for a single foil packet to add a flash of colour, up to £40 for a full bleach and tone service,” explains Jarred. The main challenge Jarred finds with offering a colour service is managing the time in the chair, so he tends to funnel his colour clients to the early part of the week to avoid the more manic days.

Colour can deliver profitable returns that help build revenue and boost the bottom line. Robert John Grosvenor (FB Robert John Grosvenor) runs a unisex business and his barbershop has been offering men’s colour for 10 years. Approximately 20% of his customers purchase colour services. Robert says “The male colouring sector is continuously growing. I would say most male colouring is to enhance the

F E AT U R E : M B

TOM BAXTER’S WISDOM ON COLOUR WORK

HAIR: JARRED LIDDINGTON

HAIR: JARRED LIDDINGTON

HAIR: TOM BAXTER

Tom Baxter @tombaxter_hair has a strong colour clientele and showcases colour in his stage work and social media. Here he shares his thoughts on how to get the best out of colour.

• When starting out with colour a lot of factors must be taken into consideration…clients skin type, eye colour and underlying tone…all these factors play a part in the end result.

“WHEN WE FIRST OPENED ONLY AROUND 5% OF OUR CUSTOMERS HAD COLOUR SERVICES BUT THE MORE WORK WE DID, THE MORE WE GOT.” natural hair colour. We use a great colour to cover greys that only takes five minutes.

I do feel if you are going to use colour in your barbershop you need to make sure you have the correct training and follow all the health and safety requirements.

I’m always offering my staff up-to-date training courses on colouring. I love using and experimenting with new colours! I believe offering colouring in the barbering sector is a great way to show off your creativity and increase your business

turn over.” Robert loves the Milkshake range and OSMO for creative colours and makes sure that he uses a bond building treatment like Olaplex when lightening hair to protect the condition. His focus on training doesn’t just protect a customer’s hair, it also protects the overall health and wellbeing of both customer and barber. As a chemical process colour services come with strict health and safety guidelines that should never be contravened. Mike Taylor of the Great British Barbering Academy @gbbarberacademy says “There is debate about adding colour as a compulsory module in the new government T Levels for apprentices. It’s a great service but in my opinion we should protect our core barber services for people entering the industry. Cutting, shaving and life skills will be what gives young people the best start and employers the best staff.

Private courses and those run by colour companies like Wella are the best place to add that skill when barbers have nailed the basics.”

• Important! Clients must be skin tested 48 hours before the service to ensure that there are no allergic reactions - this is done by mixing product and applying direct to the skin behind the ear or on the forearm.

The client can leave the shop and the product can be rinsed off after a minimum of 30 minutes. If the skin shows any signs of irritation or the client experiences any adverse effects then do not proceed with any kind of colour service.

• Learning how to choose and apply the right colour to get the right result is important. Mixing paints is a good way to learn how colours react together and neutralise each other.

Look at the ‘Colour Wheel’ to show how tones balance and interact.

Remembering the acronym ‘Richard Of York Gave Battle In Vain’ gives you the seven key colours of the wheel in order ‘Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Indigo, Violet.’ Tones that are opposite each other on the wheel neutralise one another. So for example when giving a customer a clean silver grey, you need to lift the hair with peroxide and check for any warmth left. Your underlying tone Continued on page 22 WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 13

M B : F E AT U R E

HAIR: TOM BAXTER

“WHEN ADDING PEROXIDE DOWN TO THE SCALP A 6% VOLUME IS ENOUGH. ANYTHING HIGHER WILL BURN THE SCALP AND SHATTER THE CUTICLE, COMPROMISING THE HAIR.” will be yellow or pale yellow, so adding violet to that harsh tone will neutralise the colour giving you a clean base. If this is not done and you were to add silver which has a blue base and add it straight to your underlying tone which is yellow, the result will deliver a green tinge. Make sure you understand the underlying tone and how colours work together to give a solid base.

INSPIRATION ON PRODUCTS FUDGE PROFESSIONAL CLEAN BLONDE SPEED+ VIOLET LUXE LIGHTENER: an amazing 7 levels of lift for lightening bright blondes with a tingle-free, fumefree powder formula that adds conditioning too.

PAPER NOT FOIL: an eco-friendly alternative to foils made from industrial waste from the construction industry. Recyclable and compostable. Available in two sizes.

FUDGE HEAD PAINT GEL TONERS: iridescent, metallic tones for a little added extra.

AMERICAN CREW PRECISION BLEND NATURAL GREY COVERAGE: no drip easy-toapply formula that acts fast in 5 minutes for great toneon-tone coverage. Available in Light, Medium Natural, Brown and Dark.

WELLAPLEX STRENGTHENING TREATMENT: reconstructs inner hair bonds for stronger hair and better lifting results. Available as a three step process. Bond Maker, Bond Stabilizer, Hair Stabilizer for home care post colour service.

ALTER EGO PH CHANGER: a unique additive formula that transforms the ph of oxidative colours and works with the Alter EGO range to transform colours from demipermanent to permanent, saving space and cost.

OSMO COLOR PSYCHO: semipermanent hair colour cream in 14 high impact shades. Readyto-use formula ammonia and peroxide free and even conditions hair as the vibrant colour is deposited. Lasts up to six weeks.

NEW OSMO SUPER SILVER NO YELLOW MASK: hydrating, sulphate free treatment mask, infused with super violet pigments, replenishes lost moisture and helps neutralise yellow tones.

FUDGE HEAD PAINT BLONDE: a range of blondes from cool champagne to ash with 100% grey coverate that stay vibrant through 30 washes.

• When adding peroxide down to the scalp a 6% volume is enough. Anything higher will burn the scalp and shatter the cuticle, compromising the hair.

• Adding colour in the right places will add definition and texture and allow the light to create the illusion of movement. Colour can transform a look from a stationary state and a bland silhouette to add texture and individuality.

• Colour delivers good returns. You can turn a £25 haircut into a £90 service for just one client and work in between the colour process to make money cutting while the colour is processing.

14 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

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TECH ROUND-UP M B : F E AT U R E

Working smarter couldn’t be easier, here’s a look at the tech that can take the pain out of running a business.

In a recent survey completed by 399 UK barbers, 76% said that they had used technology to improve their business in the last year. Where there’s WIFI, there’s a way! If you are feeling pain with any of your business processes, then there’s probably an app for that.

GREAT FOR…TOTAL BARBERSHOP BUSINESS SOLUTIONS

SHORTCUTS BARBER – cloud-based all-rounder for online and FB booking, pre-pay and post payment, SMS confirmations, POS, self check-in, queue management, set and forget marketing, bespoke client app, 24/7 support, reporting plus much more. All for £20 a month. Shortcuts.co.uk/barber SALON TRACKER – software based, scheduling, online booking, POS, stock management, remote access, advanced reporting, intelligent marketing. Free trial. Salontracker.co.uk.

PREMIER SOFTWARE – Lite cloud-based and full software version available. Online booking, staff scheduling, linked appointments for multiple services, built in SMS and email, loyalty schemes, reporting.

Premiersoftware.uk

GREAT FOR…PROCESSING PAYMENT

WORLDPAY – no authorisation fee, no joining fee, no minimum, 1.5% on Visa and Mastercard. Offers online payments, card reader, telephone payment, POS, at-a-glance dashboard. Business.worldpay.com.

SQUARE READER – easy set-up, card payments, 22 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“IN A RECENT SURVEY COMPLETED BY 399 UK BARBERS, 76% SAID THAT THEY HAD USED TECHNOLOGY TO IMPROVE THEIR BUSINESS IN THE LAST YEAR.” phone payments, real time analytics, employee permissions, 24/7 support.

Squareup.com.

SUMUP – contactless card reader, accepts all debit and credit cards, quick sign-up, no fixed contract, 1.69% per transaction. Sumup.co.uk.

GREAT FOR…KEEPING TRACK OF THE NUMBERS

XERO – takes payment, reconciles bank transactions, captures expenses on the go, payroll, workplace pensions, tracks employee expense claims, compliant with making tax digital. xero.com.

QUICKBOOKS – good for small businesses and self-employed, payroll and auto enrolment,

expenses, mileage tracking, payments, tax tracking and compliant with making tax digital, cashflow and forecasting. quickbooks. intuit.com/uk/.

GREAT FOR…TAKING APPOINTMENTS

BOOKSY – online booking, personalised app, web and Facebook widgets, automatic reminders, mobile payments, email receipts.

Free trial. booksy.com/en-gb.

NEARCUT – easy online booking, free tailored website or plug-in to existing site, free app. 3 month free trial. nearcut.com.

RESURVA – easy online booking, free website, email marketing, multi-location management, waiting lists. 60 day free trial. Resurva.com.

GREAT FOR…QUEUE MANAGEMENT

Q JUNKIE – real time queue management, push notifications, cuts out walk-outs, cuts out chaos, free customer app, 60 day trial.

Qjunkie.co.uk.

QUEUEAWAY – virtual queue management, text notifications, 60 day trial. Queueaway.co.uk.

Special thank you to…Damian Owen, Kelly Alexander, Eric Lynch, Paul Simmons, Martin Harrison, Gareth Clark for their input!

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WHAT’S NOT TO LOVE ABOUT SHORTCUTS BARBER WHEN IT CAN DO ALL OF THIS? It’s time to start fulfilling your potential with Shortcuts Barber.

This cloud-based software is perfect for barbershops and independent barbers and gives you access to everything you need to do business on the go. Your clients have the ability to book whenever it suits them; allows them to pre-pay using Stripe and lets them manage their appointments without having to call you. It’s surprisingly simple!

SMS Confirmations – cuts down on no shows with automatic text reminders.

Cloud Appointment Book - take your appointment book wherever you go, so you can make the most of every opportunity that comes your way.

Reporting – armed with all the insights Shortcuts live reporting will give you, you can actively work on your business and see real results.

Point of Sale - quickly check out clients, sell products and services, apply discounts and more.

Mobile App - your very own guest app to help your clients stay connected with you and put your business in the palm of their hand.

Ratings and Reviews - find out what your clients really think and nip any complaints in the bud with the Ratings and Reviews feature.

Set and Forget Marketing - set up SMS and email marketing campaigns once and they will automatically deliver personalised communications throughout the year.

Online Booking - will automatically sync with your appointment book from your website, Google, Facebook or Instagram page without any risk of doublebooking.

24/7 Support – round the clock technical support.

NO SWEAT BARBERSHOP SOFTWARE WITH SHORTCUTS BARBER Inky Steve of Jersey Street Social Club hates admin and loves a fast and easy way to manage his shop – he uses MyBarberApp from Shortcuts.

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rilliant systems are the backbone of an efficient business and when time is money, time-saving software allows barbershop owners to spend time keeping their customers happy and putting hair on the floor. Inky Steve of Jersey Street Social Club has created a unique busy barbershop hub that serves his happy community of clients and it’s all gone pretty smoothly thanks to the support of his business software from Shortcuts Barber.

Inky says “I wanted the Jersey Street Social Club to grow organically. I didn’t want to force it in anyway. We want a community feel…so we want customers to come back again and again. The ability to book and pay using the app keeps the flow of people coming through the shop. There are no longer hours of waiting. Customers can book at a time that suits them. They know they can comes straight in; get a hair-cut and go back to work.”

Letting the Shorcuts Barber software get to work cuts out inefficiency, optimises costs and puts all the tough jobs like staff scheduling, stock control, cash flow and much more at your fingertips. Building

business is easier too with the ability to book directly from Google, appointment reminders and your very-own branded mobile guest-app. “Having the business in the palm of our hands cuts down paper work, ordering stock and all the boring things you get bogged down with. We can now keep a track of how many haircuts and customers we are dealing with and focus our marketing on days we are not as busy. For me the love of the job is doing the haircuts…basically I got it to make my life easier in every way and it does!” concludes Inky.

GET YOUR OWN CUSTOMISABLE BRANDED APP FOR FREE UNTIL 30/6/19 JUST £20 PER MONTH + £10 PER STAFF MEMBER. VISIT SHORTCUTS.CO.UK/BARBER. CALL 0161 972 4900.

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andysbarbers.biz 24 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

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WAHL CHROM2STYLE CLIPPER

KIPA TOFFEE PASTE Toffee fibre paste is the ultimate styling product giving you extreme hold and definition that lasts. Soft pliable paste gives hair texture with a low shine finish. Price £8.45. Trade enquiries welcome. kipa.co.uk.

Superbly balanced clipper allows gentle, fatigue-free working from the wrist. Designed for bulk removal and tapering. Long lasting Diamond Blade is 40 times stronger than the standard blades. RRP £149.99 ex VAT. wahl.co.uk

THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE VEGAN TRAVEL BRUSH Synthetic innovative cellulose filament bristle, small size beard brush that’s vegan friendly. Beechwood body, laser etched. Perfect for beard maintenance.

Price £17.99. bluebeards-revenge.co.uk.

PAUL MITCHELL TEA TREE SHAPING CREAM Gives texture, definition and strong flexible, lasting hold. Clean, matte finish. RRP £18.25. salon-success.co.uk

ETCH® TAPER SHAPE-UP SHAVE GEL Lightweight clear gel for precision shaving. Dermatologically approved and alcohol free, blended for cooling and soothing with Aloe Vera, Witch Hazel, Peppermint Oil and Vitamin E. No hot towel required. RRP: £13. www.etch.shop.

DENMAN FISHTAIL COMB Great for loose textured finishes. The curved body and wide tapered teeth make it great for creating soft ‘fingerfinished’ texture while the two-pronged tail works as a pick for natural hair.

RRP: £2.56. denmanbrush.com.

ANDIS PROFOIL LITHIUM PLUS TITANIUM FOIL SHAVER

STORE FRONT 26 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

Quiet rotary motor, cord/cordless lightweight clipper with up to 80 minutes of run time from a single charge. Gold titanium hypoallergenic foils with two rows of blades. Price: £84.95 inc VAT. andis.com.

‘Stuff you need and gear you want.’

PRODUCTS:MB

KENT VENT BRUSH

SAVE 20% BEFORE 30TH APRIL 2019

Natural bristle plus moulded pins, 32 tufts, seven-slot design. Optimises drying time, builds style and hold.

RRP £25.00. Kentbrushes.com

CAPONE BARBER BUNDLE PACKAGE AMERICAN CREW MATTE CLAY

Bundle includes 2 x Capone Barber Chairs, 2 x Bronx Plus Barber Units. Offer price now £3495 ex VAT. Contact call 01455 553558. salonequipmentcentre.co.uk

Pliable, playable hold with a shine free finish. Perfect for hold and definition in short and mid length hair. RRP £15.20 / €17.50. americancrew.com

KOBE BARBER APRON

COMING SOON

TAKARA BELMONT GT SPORTSMAN BARBER CHAIR Light, sleek barbershop chair with classic racing car overtones, built for lasting comfort. Price: £1170-£1490. takarahairdressing.co.uk.

Waxed canvas and real leather combine for a high quality, vintage style. Practical design.

Available in three colours: Chocolate, Maroon and Sand. Price: £31.95 ex VAT. Coolblades.co.uk

EDWIN JAGGER CONDITIONING BEARD OIL Natural beard care, conditioning Sandalwood Beard Oil. Natural & Paraben free. RRP £10.00. Stockist contact enquiries@edwinjagger.com.

Edwinjagger.com.

ALOHA CAPE FROM CAPE GANG Oversized, water resistant and lightweight patterned cape. Stretch Lycra neck with popper fastenings. Perfect for a laid back vibe. RRP £30.00. barberblades.co.uk WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 27

CAMERON CONNOLLY PREPPING

MB:SOCIAL

WAHL APPRENTICE SHOOT COMPETITION MB ran a competition sponsored by Wahl UK for five apprentice winners to experience a professional photo shoot with industry specialist and photographer Liam Oakes. Here’s how it went down…

N

othing beats capturing your work on camera, so at the end of last year MB ran a competition in association with Wahl UK (@wahluk).

Wahl is big on training and education and is always seeking ways to support the next gen of barbers.

The competition was open to trainees and apprentice barbers in the UK and all they had to do was email a phone pic of their best cut. The competition attracted nearly 100 entries and was judged by the man himself, Simon Shaw, Global Artistic Director of Wahl.

The five winners were: Marley Mayer @maarleymayer from North Barbers, Josh Brodie Brown @joshbrownhair, Cameron Connolly @cameron_james98, Bruce Baillie @bruce.baillie from Sovereign Grooming and Matt Read @matt.barber.read from Gould Barbers.

Each barber was asked to bring their own model and was given free rein to create the look of their choice.

The shoot took place at studios in Buckinghamshire in January.

Each barber was left to prep their model

28 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“ R E A L LY E N J O Y E D T H A N D IT H A S IN S P IR E DAY E W O R K O N F U RT H E R D M E T O S H OOTS A N D M A K E PH OTO A O F IT.” B RU C E B A IL F U T U R E L IE

MARLEY MAYER PREPPING

G CU ET ED T T G TINHE E G

R PE AL IP N CL SIO R ES TO F O RO M P R E SS PE DL SU R CO A DVA N C E D

LITHIUM Our new Cordless Super Motor Clipper has advanced lithium technology.

A 3 hour charge gives 2 hours of sustained power with no cord to get in the way. And with Japanese steel blades and a high torque brushless motor you are guaranteed outstanding cutting performance and precision control, making it a match for all hair types and styles.

MB:SOCIAL

LIAM OAKES AT WORK (PIC COURTESY OF ROBERT BRAID)

“I HAD A GREAT EXPERIENCE AT THE SHOOT. I LOVED THE CHANCE TO SHOWCASE MY OWN SKILLS AS WELL AS A GLIMPSE INTO HOW PHOTOSHOOTS WORK AND HOW MUCH ACTUALLY GOES INTO THEM.” MATT READ and then help direct the shoot to get the best out of their desired look. The goal of any hair shoot is to make the hair the star and often what you see with your eye and what the camera captures can be a very different result. Liam shoots his images ‘tethered’ which means that every shot he takes pops up on his Mac Book which gave every barber the chance to assess, tweak or change their look as they worked through the process. Every barber received a goody bag courtesy of Wahl including a Legend Clipper, Wahl styling products, clipper comb, neck brush, gown and towel. The results can be found on pages 42 to 46 of the Portfolio section in this issue.

30 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

LIAM OAKES AT WORK (PIC COURTESY OF ROBERT BRAID)

“ I R E A L LY E N J O Y E D M E E T IN G N E W P E O P E X P E R IE N C IN G N E W L E A N D T H IN G S.” M A R L E Y M AY E R

S P E C I A L F E AT U R E : M B

The Bluebeards Revenge is a brand that leans in and listens close to barbers and male grooming trends and its latest round up shows that there are two key trends to watch out for this season.

SOPHIE COLLINS – SOPH’S BARBERSHOP, LLANBEDR, NORTH WALES “A lot of my clients are asking to keep their beards reasonably short, faded down from the hair into the cheeks. A few are also asking me to shorten the hair in the middle of their chins, emphasising their moustaches and goatees. I think a lot of this is because people are seeing it more with celebrities and social media influencers.”

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OLLIE FOSTER – NUMBER 47 BARBERS, CHESTER “For me, 2019 is finally going to see the full return of longer hair. It’s exciting, as this time around more barbers are competent working with length…they’re not just specialists in short back and sides! Barbers are now seen as hybrids between their historic roots and more modern men’s hairdressing.”

VINCENT QUINN – HARD GRIND, DUNDEE “Current street wear brands are

definitely influencing the hairstyles that my customers are asking for and it’s all about the resurgence of the 90s! The vintage/retro movement is hijacking the limelight from the usual major men’s fashion brands, showing how youth culture is making its stamp. Hairstyles like the bowl cut, the wedge cut and classic curtains are very much in trend for youngsters at the moment, especially when paired with loosely turned-up jeans and a FILA jacket. Barbers are better and more technically trained now too, so these cuts are being treated professionally and adapted to avoid the ‘cut at home in the dark’ vibe.”

THE BLUEBEARDS AMBASSADORS CREATING BANGUP-TO-DATE BEARDS… CALLUM MARKS – LUKA’S BARBERS, PLYMOUTH “Loads of my guys are ditching their big, Viking-like beards as well. They’re going for lower maintenance looks. A great example is a combination of short stubble and a full moustache.”

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GET 15% OFF YOUR NEXT DIRECT TRADE ORDER WITH THE BLUEBEARDS REVENGE. HOW TO USE: 1. Apply for an online trade account at bluebeardsrevenge.co.uk/trade and use code MB15 at checkout.

2. Email trade@bluebeards-revenge.co.uk, quoting MB15 3. Phone 01752 898191 and speak to an account manager, quoting MB15 Terms & conditions: Cannot be used in conjunction with any offer. Can only be used once per customer. The offer expires at 11.59pm on 30/06/2019

FOR PRODUCT SHOPPING AND TRADE ENQUIRIES GO TO WWW.BLUEBEARDS-REVENGE.CO.UK/ @THEBLUEBEARDS.

WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 31

MB:SOCIAL

NO POACHING MB heard from Baldy of Baldy’s Barbers in Aylesbury (@baldysbarbers), he’s got something to say about the nasty practice of staff poaching…so we let him, in his very own words.

Doesn’t really matter what you call it; whether it’s headhunting or poaching, the reality is that if you have a good member of staff, it’s pretty likely that some other barbershop is going to do their best to steal them from you. That’s not ok. Most shops are part of a small community. If your shop gets a good reputation it builds on word-of-mouth for customers but it also means that the word gets out that you have good barbers. Staff poaching isn’t new but it has become easier with the rise of social media. The barber gets approached by direct message and usually gets over promised all kinds of things to lure them to leave. I understand it to a degree but I’m protective of my team and I just think it’s an unprofessional way for barbershop owners to behave.

Why can’t they just advertise and attract barbers to them. If a barber is actively looking to leave, then they will reach out to other employers in the area. I feel very lucky because I have a great relationship with my barbers. It’s a very open and honest relationship and when this happened to me recently the barber in question came to me and told me. He was very respectful in turning down the position and replying to the shop that wanted him too. I built my team from scratch and helped them grow. I respect and nurture them. I get them involved in projects. I look for simple ways to show how much they are appreciated, even if that means bringing them tea in the morning. When they leave for empty promises from a future employer then I lose a good member of staff and the barber gets stuck in a difficult position.

32 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

BALDY

“I LOOK FOR SIMPLE WAYS TO SHOW HOW MUCH THEY ARE APPRECIATED, EVEN IF THAT MEANS BRINGING THEM TEA IN THE MORNING.”

If that happens, I leave the door open, I never burn bridges or make it difficult.

It makes it easy then for the barber to ultimately re-join the team and if I have work for them I will always take them back. My advice to other employers is build your own reputation, be the shop that everyone wants to work in, take care of your team but don’t go upsetting the apple cart for other businesses because that word gets out too!”

BY

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MB:SOCIAL

FORM IS TEMPORARY, CLASS IS PERMANENT

2

019 has been a hugely busy year for Wahl as we hosted the barbering stages at HJ Live, London and Pro Hair, Manchester. It was great to see so many barbers bring their A-game to the Wahl stages, seriously impressed with the education that you provided for the audience. Barbering continues to grow and so do the training and education offerings from every barber that has a logo and more than 10 Instagram followers. As predicted though, the majority of these ‘trainers’ don’t stick around and the ones that are still around struggle to get more than two people on their course.

Whilst it’s important to invest in education, as we are all on a constant learning curve, it’s even more important to find a training provider with the knowledge and experience to deliver education that will ensure you leave with the skills required to truly add value to your skillset and business. At Wahl, we are dedicated to delivering the best training around the world and are committed to investing in our education offering.

We recently opened the doors to our newly refurbished, state-of-the-art Academy at Wahl HQ in Kent. We’d love you all to come down and visit the 36 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

THE NEW WAHL ACADEMY

“AT WAHL, WE ARE DEDICATED TO DELIVERING THE BEST TRAINING AROUND THE WORLD AND ARE COMMITTED TO INVESTING IN OUR EDUCATION OFFERING.” new Academy, it’s a great environment to learn in with everything you need to further your education. From classic cuts to fade work and wet shaving, we deliver the essential skills with some of the best barbering and hairdressing educators in the world. Find out more about our courses at wahlacademy.co.uk I’d like to start my shout out’s with a huge mention for Modern Barber’s editor, Rachel Gould. Always at shows

and supporting British Barbering, it’s no wonder Modern Barber is still the number one barbering mag. On a personal level, I would like to give a shout out to Dom Lehane for the recent interview he did with me for his podcast @howtocutit. I’ve had some great feedback since it went out, so thank you all for the support.

Hope you all have a great Spring and catch up in the Summer!

SOCIAL:MB

PRODUCT OF THE MONTH: CHROM2STYLE

S

uperbly balanced clipper allows gentle, fatigue-free working from the wrist.

Designed for bulk removal and tapering, the Diamond Blade is 40 times stronger than our standard blades, so lasts longer.

SAM CAMPAGNA THE NEWEST MEMBER OF THE WAHL ARTISTIC TEAM

BARBER OF THE ISSUE: SAM CAMPAGNA

W

e don’t often add members to the Wahl Artistic Team, so you can be sure that when we do, they are of the highest quality! We are proud to welcome Sam Campagna to the team, a true professional with all the skills to succeed at Wahl. Welcome, Sam. Keep a track of Sam’s progress @wahlartisticteam

DATES FOR THE DIARY

PRODUCT OF THE ISSUE: PORSCHE SUNGLASSES. SUMMER’S COMING!

11TH MAY – THE VAMPS, HYDRO 18TH MAY – FA CUP FINAL, WEMBLEY 2ND – 3RD JUNE – BARBER CONNECT, TELFORD WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 37

Barbicide - No pretender Every client, every time

WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK / 39

MUSIC CAN BE A TOOL OF YOUR TRADE When thinking of the tools you need to make your barber shop succeed, what springs to mind initially is bound to be your scissors, clippers, grooming products, towels and that all important barbers chair.

Obviously without these vital tools you would not be able to offer a service at all. However, these days it’s not just about the service you offer, it’s the whole customer experience which can set you apart from your competitors.

And music is part of that customer experience. It can be another tool of your trade.

Music creates a mood. Maybe you want your clients to feel relaxed with some feelgood music as they sit back and have a shave, or perhaps your customers enjoy hearing the latest live sports chat on a bustling Saturday morning. Playing music in your studio can encourage conversations, that vital connection between your staff and customers.

CREATE A REFLECTIVE PLAYLIST Your clients are diverse, and your playlist can reflect that. Know your customers, involve your team, learn which style of music heightens that ‘feelgood’ factor at different times, and you could create a barber shop which is as much known for its great atmosphere as it is for its excellent service and products. It’s all about the experience.

Music can change that experience from good to outstanding!

It’s not just your customers who benefit from music being played either, your colleagues will too! Music can add a burst of energy to a team who have been on their feet all day. So much so that going back to 1940 the BBC introduced ‘Music While you Work’ radio programmes to boost productivity in factories!

NOW ASK YOURSELF, CAN YOU REALLY AFFORD NOT TO PLAY MUSIC IN YOUR SALON? Are there newspapers or magazines available for your clients to read whilst they wait or have their treatment? Perhaps you go the extra mile and provide freshly ground coffee or even an ice cold beer. Would you consider not supplying these for that feeling of added value?

Seems an impossible consideration doesn’t it?

Playing music in your business could cost you as little as £0.64 per day*, and you will be safe in the knowledge that you are licensed to play original music and radio stations which can improve your brand, your clients will feel welcome and valued, whilst also increasing staff morale.

And now we are making it even easier for you to buy that licence.

Previously businesses needed to buy two separate music licences, one from PPL and one from PRS for Music. These two bodies have listened to their customers and formed a joint venture – PPL PRS Ltd - and created TheMusicLicence. What this means for you is that you can now buy and renew your music licence in one place, with one invoice and one contact. Simple!

It really is as easy as buying that daily newspaper, or stocking up your in-shop fridge!

www.pplprs.co.uk * Cost example spread across 365 days based on a premises with up to 10 chairs or treatment tables, combined yearly music licence could cost around £233 (excluding VAT).

“Music definitely impacts the salon positively. It just gives it a good vibe.”

One.a Salon, Caernarfon

Turn it up!

0800 0720 808 Quote ‘Modern Barber’

M B :T I P S

HOW TO…SUPPORT COLLEAGUES AND EMPLOYEES WITH MENTAL HEALTH PROBLEMS

SALMAN MALIK OF ETCH

The NHF/NBF offers significant support for professionals in the hair industry.

Here their experts share best practice on helping people with mental health challenges. Mental Health Awareness Week, hosted by the Mental Health Foundation, will take place from Monday 13 May to Sunday 19 May 2019. The Mental Health Foundation reports that mental health problems are the leading cause of sickness absence in the UK.

1

Stress can be much harder to spot in colleagues than a physical illness.

Warning signs include: under-performing, taking more sick leave, being tired or irritable, drinking or smoking more than usual, losing their sense of humour or being overly self-critical. If you have concerns, reach out to your colleague, to see if you can do anything to support them now or in the future.

HOW TO…GET THE PERFECT SHAPE UP 2

S

alman Malik is a scientist turned barber. His search for the ultimate shave gel came up empty handed, so he created one. His brand Etch @etch_shavegel has helped him become a shape up pioneer. Keeping customers sharp has never been easier, here’s how he does it: > In order to get a crisp shape-up, first use a zero-gapped trimmer (i.e. Andis T-outliners and/or Wahl Detailers adjusted with the T-wide blade) to line-up your client. > Ensure the hairline is not pushed back and follows the natural curvature of the hair. This is to avoid creating an entirely new shape to the hair which looks unnatural during hair growth. > Use a shave gel that is clear, soothing to the skin and provides lubrication to provide a smooth slide and glide for the razor.

42 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

“ENSURE THE HAIRLINE IS NOT PUSHED BACK AND FOLLOWS THE NATURAL CURVATURE OF THE HAIR.”

> Use a fresh blade for hygiene and to protect the customer from potential infections but additionally to provide a razor-sharp and crispy line-up. A sharp razor avoids minor nicks and cuts. > Apply a thin layer of gel in the shave area on the skin, stretch the skin and shave in the direction of hair growth with short strokes of the razor. > Gently remove residue to leave your client looking fresh. > Avoid using gels that are heavily perfumed or include alcohol which is very harsh and drying.

The law says that employers have a legal duty to protect their barbershop employees from stress at work. Common causes of workplace stress for employees are being unable to cope with the workload, having no say over how and when work is done, not knowing what’s expected, badly managed change in the workplace, and workplace bullying (nhf.info/bullying). NHF Members have access to a free HR legal helpline which can help with stress-related risk assessments: nhf.info/legal-advice

3

If you have concerns, arrange a confidential meeting with your employee to discuss the situation and ask if there is anything you can do to support them.

Consider practical offers of help such as flexible working or some time off. Offer a follow-up meeting to monitor the situation.

Find out more: nhf.info/stressed-employee

4

Be prepared: you may have to listen to difficult personal problems or criticism of your management style. Listen carefully and try to stay objective. Don’t take things personally and stay focused on finding solutions. If appropriate, share details about services and organisations that offer help and support: www.mentalhealth.org.uk/yourmental-health/getting-help

www.nhf.info

Make your barbershop business boom with the NHF JOIN US TODAY TO GET THESE FANTASTIC BENEFITS: Free everyday business and HR advice from our friendly membership team.

Free 24/7 employment and commercial legal lifeline.

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Valuable discounts on business essentials including insurance, workshops and health & safety.

Join now for less than 75p a day Join before 30 June and quote MBSPRING to get ÂŁ25 off your membership fee

Call us on: 01234 831965 or email us: enquiries@nhf.info www.nhf.info/benefits

THE LIST BARBER SUPPLIERS Coolblades Ltd. Unit 5 Wyre Court, Bracewell Ave, Poulton-le-Fylde, FY6 8JF T: 01253 893091. E: cb-info@coolblades.co.uk.

W: www.coolblades.co.uk Barber Blades. Charnwood Park, 3, Clos Marion, Cardiff, CF10 4LJ. T: 0800 644 0234. W: barberblades.co.uk Salon Services. Nationwide. Call for local store info.

T: 0330 123 1907. W: salon-services.com

BARBER TRAINING Great British Barber Academy. 26 Wimborne Road, Poole, Dorset, BH15 2BU. T: 01202 287143.

E: info@greatbritishbarberingacademy.com.

W: www.greatbritishbarberingacademy.com

FURNITURE Barber Equipment Centre. Leicester Road, Lutterworth, LE17 4HF. T: 01455 553 558.

E: info@salonequipmentcentre.co.uk.

W: salonequipmentcentre.co.uk Moda Salon Interiors. 1st Floor 4A, Brittany Court, High Street South, Dunstable, Beds, LU6 3HR. T: 0800 999 6446. E: sales@modasaloninteriors.com.

W: www.modasaloninteriors.com REM UK Ltd. Glenfield Mill, Glenfield Road, Nelson, Lancashire, BB9 8AW. T: 01282 619977.

E: sales@rem.co.uk. W: www.rem.co.uk Takara Belmont . Belmont House, 1 St Andrews Way, Bow, London, E3 3PA. T: 0207 515 0333.

E: katie@takara.co.uk. W: www.takarahairdressing.co.uk

PRODUCTS American Crew. Revlon Professional, Ground Floor, Greater London House, Hampstead Road, London, NW1 7QX. T: 0207 391 7440.

E: customerservice.uk@revlon.com.

W: www.americancrew.com Etch Shave Gel. T: 07506 578353. E: salman@etch.shop.

W: etch.shop Kipa. 5 Daimler Close, Royal Oak, Industrial Estate, Daventry, Northamptonshire, NN11 8QJ. T: 01327 315889. E: info@kipa.co.uk.

W: www.kipa.co.uk Paul Mitchell. Salon Success Ltd, 1-2 Millenium Point, Broadfields, Aylesbury, Bucks, HP19 8YH. 44 / WWW.MODERNBARBER.CO.UK

Our quick reference guide to the products and services that love serving your industry.

T: 0845 659 0012. E: helloclub@salon-success.co.uk.

W: www.paul-mitchell.co.uk The Bluebeards Revenge. Unit One, Langage Business Park, Eagle Road, Plymouth, PL7 5JY. T: 01752 898191.

E: info@bluebeards-revenge.co.uk.

W: www.bluebeards-revenge.co.uk

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT Andis. Available at all good barber suppliers.W:andis.com Babyliss Pro UK. The Conair Group Ltd, Prospect Court, 3 Waterfront Business Park, Fleet, Hampshire, GU51 3TW. T: 0370 513 3191. W: www.bablylisspro.co.uk Denman International. Clandeboye Road, Bangor, Co. Down, B20 3JH. T: 028 9146 2141. W: denmanbrush.com Edwin Jagger. Cavendish Works, 6 Morpeth Street, Sheffield, S3 7JL. T: 0114 270 6706.

W: www.edwinjagger.co.uk Kent Brushes. London Road, Apsely, Hemel Hempstead, Herts, HP3 9SA. T: 01442 232623.

E: customerservices@kentbrushes.com.

W: kentbrushes.com Wahl UK. Sterling House, Clipper Close, Ramsgate Kent, CT12 5GG. T: 01227 740066.

E: customer.services@wahl.co.uk. W: www.wahl.co.uk

SHOP SERVICES NHF/NBF. One Abbey Court, Fraser Road, Priory Business Park, Bedford, MK44 3WH. T: 01234 831965. E: enquiries@nhf.info.

W: www.nhf.info PPL PRS. Mercury Place, St George’s Street, Leicester, LE1 1QG. T: 0800 0720 808. W: www.pplprs.co.uk

SOFTWARE AND APPS Booksy UK. T: 01424 400091.

E: info.gb@booksy.net. W: booksy.com Premier Software. 9 & 10 Heritage Park, Hayes Way, Cannock, Staffordshire, WS11 7LT. T: 01543 466580. E: sales@premiersoftware.co.uk.

W: www.premiersoftware.uk Salon Tracker Ltd. 30-38 Dock Street, Leeds LS19 1JF. T: 0113 350 8230. E: info@salontracker.co.uk.

W: www.salontracker.co.uk Shortcuts Software/Shortcuts Barber. Dalton House Dane Road, Sale, M33 7AR. T: 0161 972 4900.

W: www.shortcuts.co.uk

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