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FGE Srl - Regione San Giovanni, 40 - 14053 Canelli (AT) - nr. 2/2013 - Anno XXIV - bimestrale

A Jobson publication March 2013

MIDO SPECIAL EDITION Men’s trends 2013 > 20 Affordable fashion Fantastic frames for everyday > 74


100 years Eschenbach Optics

Thank you

MIDO 2013

Hall 13

Stand B17-C18


P2 20/20 Europe: Editor’s comment P4 What’s on in Europe P16 In Detail: Maybach Eyewear – Icons of Luxury P20 Men’s Fashion: late 19th and early 20th century revival P30 Brand profile: OGI Eyewear P33 Special Vintage P74 Trends: Affordable wonders P78 Products section P92 View from the US P93 European Lenses & Technology

STAFFAN PREUTZ DESIGN www.polariseyewear.com

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Pure look, streamline appearance international eye fashion 1

See us at MIDO, Pav.24 Stand G12 /H 11


EDITOR’S COMMENT

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special issue for MIDO, packed with all the colour, design, and fashionable choices that you will need for success in 2013! We have taken a look at men’s fashion in particular, with the new wave of intellectual look frames inspired by old-fashioned designs, from the late 19th century and early 20th century! We are following the developments in men’s eye fashion very closely, and this issue has an inspiring fashion shoot showing the leading shapes and elegant looks for men for the season. Also in this issue, nd the new launches and innovations that have been presented or are being presented as we bring this issue out for the Milan fair. Finally, as the Spring arrives, take a look through our very popular product pages for ideas of the frames and collections to keep your eyes on for the year ahead. Customers are increasingly looking for the latest trends, new colour and exciting eyewear with an individual edge. We look forward to seeing you at MIDO - don’t miss the 20/20 EUROPE special competition “Let’s Face It/Facce da MIDO!” when you enter the MIDO Design Lab, Pav. 24. We are offering an amazing opportunity to win a 20/20 EUROPE cover!

Clodagh Norton, Editor; c.norton@fgeditore.it http://www.2020europemagazine.com/

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EYES YOU CAN TRUST


W H AT ’S ON IN E U ROPE

Eyewear news and launches coming for Spring/Summer…

E&E glasses launch sunglass collaboration Jewels for the eyes Eyewear design label E&E glasses have launched a new collaboration with Swedish girl band, Sahara Hotnights which celebrates the music scene in Sweden. The sunglasses are inspired by strong women like Sophia Loren and Marilyn Monroe. The direction translates the mood of American west coast meeting the Swedish Midnight Sun. The collection will be released in March 2013.

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Pinoptik, the Italian eyewear company, presents its new line of decorative frames for women, ‘Emozione’. The line features carefully crafted metal styles decorated with Swarovski crystals for shine and elegance. ‘Emozione’, says the company, proposes excellence in terms of design, crafting techniques and comfort. www.pinoptik.it

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Pure goodlooks, streamlined appearance For 2013, Sweden’s Polaris launches a collection focused on pure, clean design. The company promises “Eyewear produced with the intention to fit faces in the most individual way. We don’t make unique, individual glasses. We make glasses for unique, individual people”. The new range - the 9th generation of SPD frames – sees an increase in the number of colour options, with both transparent and solid colours offered, as well as pattern or glitter. “This collection is full of surprises and contrasts,” explains a spokesperson for the company, “just like the climate of the Arctic Circle, it is full of contrasts and magic.”

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Inface and the legacy of Scandinavian design The Inface design team has embraced the palettes of material, shape and colour for 2013. 12 new frame series plus the Sun Collection for the new season were presented this January at opti. The Collection reflects deeper thoughts and a close encounter with the strong need to take greater care of the planet and each other. The design is pure and simple, with carefully selected colours, materials and shapes.Typical of the collection is model IF 1161-62, a titanium style for men in fashionable colour combinations between the titanium fronts and the temples of exclusive acetate. The fronts are strong and characteristic like acetate frames. Yet the Titanium ensures the lightness and comfort.

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zilli.fr international eye fashion 7


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Blackfin to take new direction At Opti 2013, Blackfin by Pramaor Italian Titanium eyewear presented a high-impact collection of sunglasses, where the distinctive traits of the brand, such as the basic and defined traits of the frames and the reduced thicknesses of the titanium are combined with a creative research that anticipates the new course of the brand. The common denominator of the entire collection is the use of titanium and beta titanium, processed in Italy with the most modern and innovative techniques to ensure a product of pure design and plain elegance with excellent mechanical characteristics. The lightness of the material, the patented hinges and the brand new Swordfish temple-tip - allowing one to change the original length of the temple in three easy steps, thanks to the “pre-programmed break” system - provide a pair of sunglasses with a strong personality and a perfect fit. For 2013, Blackfin features mirrored or shaded lenses, as in model BF679 Palm Bay that reinterprets the classic cat-eye shape with sculpted profiles: a modern effect for an ultra-feminine frame in titanium. The same process is used for model BF678 Pacific for men where the front features are softened and the design is emphasized by the blue, brown or black colourations combined with the new lenses.

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Newcomer Adrian Marwitz shows at opti New label Adrian Marwitz showed their first collection at opti 2013 in January. Unique and at the same time timeless, the company presented a collection of German-made frames produced to the highest quality standards. The collection symbolizes an unmistakable passion and belief that spectacles are fashionable objects of design, according to Adrian Marwitz, the founder. With this philosophy in mind, the collection was designed in titanium, and manufactured with high precision in Germany. With the conscious decision to make the glasses in Germany, ADRIAN MARWITZ returns to the roots of a spectacle dynasty that began in 1919 with his grandfather. Each design features a bright stripe on the hinges which marks the frame’s true “uniqueness”. The spectacles in this collection come in four different colours, with each colour representing one of the design principles: freedom, love and a strong conviction to realize dreams. This collection, “Hip and Crazy Wildlife”, reflects on the urban jungle trends and strives to create new dynamic design impulses.

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1 8 8 8 . 5 6 0.1 0 6 0 | o g i eyewe a r.co m

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V I S I T U S AT M I D O HALL 24 STAND L05 / MARCH 2-4 M A R C H 2 01 3

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Silhouette presents Titan Minimal Art The Icon

A new world for kids

Silhouette has launched its new Titan Minimal Art – The Icon series, which is designed to represent the best that the Austrian brand has to offer. Designer Gerhard Fuchs took the core values of all Silhouette eyewear and enhanced its design with attributes reflecting an active attitude to life and the liveliness of young urbanites. The result, says the company, is light, versatile eyewear of subtle durability with captivating clear design.

At opti, ic! berlin presented a new children’s collection, consisting of models for boys and girls, featuring new fun detailing, colour and good durability in designs that any child can enjoy. Launched in Munich for the first time, the collection for youngsters includes optical and sunglass styles such as a large retro aviator, scaled down from the adult designs typical of the German brand.

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© 2013 KENMARK GROUP. VERA WANG IS A TRADEMARK OF VEW LTD. KENMARKOPTICAL.COM, 800.627.2898, EXT. 1147. STYLE SHOWN: LINETTE.

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LOOK FOR KENMARK AT MIDO, PAVILLION 15 E19 F18

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Munich fair reports success in 2013 Opti’s organisers report that at this year’s event in Munich, over 23,200 industry professionals from over 70 countries came to discover the exhibitors’ latest products and trends and experience numerous launches and presentations. The number of exhibitors compared to the previous year rose again, as did the range of countries that they were from. “opti is becoming more and more important at an international level,” said Dieter Dohr, CEO and President of GHM (Gesellschaft für Handwerksmessen mbH). “More and more companies are seeing the Munich event as an opportunity to expand their international clientèle base. Of course, opticians also benefit from this, because the bigger the selection of products on offer, the more choice you have for putting together your own range.” Industry professionals from more than 70 countries were impressed by the extensive ranges displayed by the 491 exhibitors in the four busy halls.

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The children and teenagers eyewear specialist

ARROW CATIMINI DISNEY HELLO KITTY LULU CASTAGNETTE NEW YORK YANK Y EES OXBOW TARTINE & CHOCOLAT TITEUF

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ADVERTORIAL

Kids know what´s best for themselves! Legal child employment is the newest trend paint by numbers is so yesterday. Paper and pencil is governed by creative youngsters. Playful carelessness makes them the stars of tomorrow. Kids know exactly what they want, they have their own will, they´re creative, have no limitations in their free minds and are therefore absolutely suitable as designers for ic! berlins brand new Kids Collection. Their understanding for the design process was unbelievable. They understood immediately that the frames need to be wearable and producible.

Our expectaitons for the new designs have not just been fullfiled they've been exceeded! Now with even brighter forms and colours you can now adjust the frame to your mood. You´ll become the class room star where everyone want´s to be your friend!


no adverts, just buy our glasses

‚Anna lives next door to Felix and Anna. She is the youngest member of the „Stavanger Strasse Kids Gang“. I can see her working as a model for fashion for a few years before starting at University in Bristol. She might marry a guy from London, have three kids and a house in Soho. Maybe, maybe not.‘ R.A.

nalah worn by Anna - Model


IN DE TA IL

MAYBACH Eyewear:

Icons of Luxury High-end automobile brand, MAYBACH has for decades symbolised the most exacting demands on quality and luxury. The label’s eyewear collection, licensed to the German luxury eyewear specialists IVKO, embodies this spirit by proposing highly selective materials combined with the best

How long have you been producing MAYBACH Eyewear and what does the collection include today? The licence between MAYBACH and IVKO GmbH started in January 2010 and the first collection launched soon after at SILMO in the same year. The collection today is designed for men and women and we include a number of unisex styles. Each MAYBACH frame is made by hand in our workshop in Germany. The frames are painstakingly created and inspected using traditional frame-making techniques, based on the decades of experience IVKO has built over time, resulting in a perfect product.

of German handcrafting and design. 20/20 EUROPE asked Jutta Kahlbetzer, CEO, IVKO GmbH to talk about the collection and how it is being received at a global level. 16 20/20 Europe

Explain the types of materials found in the collection. The collection features a very sleek, refined clean design. We use the most select luxury materials including natural horn, fine woods, carbon fibre, leather and titanium. We also feature 18 carat solid white, yellow and rose gold, and in some frames,

Jutta Kahlbetzer and Wolfgang Thelen

natural diamonds. We also feature piano varnish. The collection has been created, not to follow fashion trends but to allow any one at any time to look good in it. It has very strong international appeal. What kind of lenses are featured? All the sunglasses in the collection use special Carl Zeiss lens-

es, which not only offer 100% UV protection but also reflect the latest technology with state-of-theart lens coatings, as well as polarization which improves vision in strong light conditions. Please refer to the most outstanding details of the frames. One of the most elegant highlights is introduced in the form M A R C H 2 01 3


IN DE TA IL

of fine silver or gold contours in the eyeglass temples. The fine edge of a metal layer embedded between exclusive wood, forms delicate silver or gold coloured lines. Combined with the highclass materials like carbon fibre or white piano lacquer, this captivating contour is further emphasised. Examples of these temples can be seen in our frame style The Monarch I G-WP-Z02. What are the key markets for the collection at this time? We are selling worldwide in 38 M A R C H 2 01 3

countries. We have great success, as this is a premium level collection, with markets like the Middle East, China, Russia and the USA, as well as different regions in Europe including Germany, France, UK, Switzerland, Italy and more. The frames retail in Europe from 1400 to 2500 euros; we have some very exclusive styles that go up to 38,000 euros featuring 18K solid gold with diamond inlays. If desired, temples in individual colours, particularly in horn, can be combined with gold for a very rare and beautiful result. international eye fashion 17


IN DE TA IL

MAYBACH is also producing other ranges, please give details. The brand is extended to other accessories, including leather goods and saddlery which has been launched in Munich in January during a special event. Handbags, shoulder bags, businessbags and wallets are just some of the items now available from MAYBACH. The Leather Goods Collection is showcased in four colourways, encompass-

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ing the classic elegance of black and the elegant naturalness of dark brown, as well as pure white and expressive orange. The MAYBACH Icons of Luxury are presented in the stores of many optical-partners and exclusive Maybach stores will be opened in the near future which will further increase the recognition of the brand at a global level. www.maybach-luxury.com

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IN DE TA IL

MAYBACH is also producing other ranges, please give details. The brand is extended to other accessories, including leather goods and saddlery which has been launched in Munich in January during a special event. Handbags, shoulder bags, businessbags and wallets are just some of the items now available from MAYBACH. The Leather Goods Collection is showcased in four colourways, encompassing the classic elegance of black and the elegant naturalness of dark brown, as well as pure white and expressive orange. The MAYBACH Icons of Luxury are presented in the stores of many optical-partners and exclusive Maybach stores will be opened in the near future which will further increase the recognition of the brand at a global level. www.maybach-luxury.com

ACCESSORIES - EYEWEAR - LEATHER GOODS - SADDLERY M A R C H 2 01 3

IVKO GmbH | Germany | www.maybach-luxury.com

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„Maybach“ and the „MM“ logo are subject to intellectual property protection owned by Daimler AG. They are used by IVKO GmbH under license.


FASHION SHOOT

Period drama Focus on the elegant styling of spectacles worn in the late 19th Century and early 20th Century gives the men’s collections a special feel for 2013. Rounds, ovals and rectangles come in smaller sizes...acetate remains strong but there is a rise in the metal designs and classy titanium interpretations as well as a growing popularity for the semi-rimless look. Colours are muted and classic, with traditional tortoise patterns and horn-look designs and tones bringing a new intellectual sophistication. Photographer: Valentina Eleonora Costa www.valentinaeleonoracosta.com Assistant: Prisca Sara Adank Lighting and retouching: Marco Diodato Models: Chris and Alessandro Boom Models Agency Fashion Stylist: Camilla Bresci Hair & Make up stylist: Yasmine Sanchez

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FASHION SHOOT

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FASHION SHOOT

ELEGANT IN OVALS Eyewear, Calvin Klein ck 7115 from Marchon shirt DELSIENA sleeveless jacket EMANUELE GERACI 22 20/20 Europe

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FASHION SHOOT

A STRONG BROWLINE Eyewear, Trussardi TR12708 by Charmant shirt DELSIENA vest EMANUELE GERACI neckerchief STREET DOING M A R C H 2 01 3

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FASHION SHOOT

A TOUCH OF TORTOISE Eyewear, Ermenegildo Zegna VZ 3607G by De Rigo shirt OTTO ASOLE UOMO taupe striped blazer BROOKSFIELD UOMO FEDERICA MORETTI hat 24 20/20 Europe

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FASHION SHOOT

INTELLECTUAL CHIC Eyewear, Model Corona from the Air Titanium Rim Collection by Lindberg shirt and jacket SOTTOSOPRA 33 vest EMANUELE GERACI M A R C H 2 01 3

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FASHION SHOOT

COOL FOR EVERYDAY Eyewear, Evolution 4800 from OGI shirt DELSIENA pants BROOKSFIELD UOMO leather jacket SERAFINO FEDERICA MORETTI hat 26 20/20 Europe

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FASHION SHOOT

MAKE A STATEMENT Eyewear, Strenesse model STM28 from IVKO shirt DELSIENA vest EMANULELE GERACI papillon STREET DOING jacket STREET DOING M A R C H 2 01 3

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FASHION SHOOT

DIRECTIONAL STYLE Eyewear, Sid by Oliver Spencer / Eyerespect shirt DELSIENA FEDERICA MORETTI hat

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FASHION SHOOT

SMALL, CHARACTERFUL SHAPES Eyewear, Modo 211 pink cotton shirt DELSIENA double-breasted vest EMANUELE GERACI papillon STREET DOING M A R C H 2 01 3

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DESIGNER PROFILE

OGI EYEWEAR: a brand on the rise OGI Eyewear launches Evo-Tec, a new sophisticated eyewear collection for the modern man. 20/20 EUROPE found out more about the developments at the label and spoke to Joseph Tallier on the launch of the new Evo-Tec collection at OPTI.

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DESIGNER PROFILE

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merican label, OGI explains its core identity as the re-definition of affordable luxury. Launched in 1997, the brand has grown rapidly from a small mid West start-up to a global luxury brand, headed by designer and entrepeneur. David Spencer. Today, the company is proud to offer two distinct labels, OGI and Seraphin, both of which are developing quickly. “One of the things we are obsessed with is quality. So it’s all about fit, quality, and value. The frames we offer have to be super stylish, because then we know how well they will sell,” explains Tallier. In the last five years, the OGI label has seen true refinement in the styling, according to Tallier. “And now we are proud to have a new departure for the label, with the launch of Evo-Tec. Ogi feels that men are consistently overlooked in the marketplace. So for 2013, we are focusing on men’s eyewear beginning with the new Evo-Tec collection. We are offering great design, a lightweight new material, details such as adjustable nosepads, and lightweight durability for an excellent tailored fit in this line,” adds Tallier. “We believe the modern male with embrace the Evo-Tec collection as it is sure to become the cornerstone of men’s style. This is an area that has been overlooked until now.” This new 3rd generation collection consists of five styles, each available in four different colour combinations. Targeted at a fashion-forward focused teenager or adult, the frames feature monel, titanium, Italian acetate and OBE

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This innovative material offers the customer a truly unique and futuristic eyewear experience.

spring hinges. Presented in black clamshell hardcases with a vibrant crushed velour lining, the line is fully adapted to offer true modern sophistication. “The feedback in Europe for OGI in general has been terrific and we need to get the message out there further. We are growing, and we have important developments coming in the region; we plan to commit further by opening our own offices in Europe by 2014. The new Evo-Tec line has already caused tremendous excitement in the US, and we are very excited for this launch in Europe, with further celebration of that coming for MIDO.” The beauty of OGI’s Evo-Tec is in its simplicity but also in the innovation we have achieved. “The material has been available but nobody else has been able to colour it in this way. By making the product in Japan, we have been able to make a very sophisticated hinge and we have made excellent progress to produce these colours. It really is revolutionary,” explains Tallier. “We are truly obsessed with doing things better all the time,” summarises Tallier as our interview ends. “This is why we are successful, and I believe there is much untapped potential in this region, following our major successes in North America.” www.ogieyewear.com

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DESIGNER PROFILE

EXPAND YOUR FIELD OF

THE COMPLETE EYECARE EVENT

EDUCATION: MARCH 14–17, 2013 | EXHIBITION: MARCH 15–17, 2013 New York, NY | Javits Center | www.visionexpoeast.com

EYEWEAR & ACCESSORIES

CONTINUING EDUCATION

LENSES & PROCESSING TECHNOLOGY

MEDICAL & SCIENTIFIC

BUSINESS SOLUTIONS


VINTAGE SPECIAL The 20th century and contemporary eyeglasses


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1920’s-1930’s

Italian made sunglasses from the 1930’s in plastic and celluloid.


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1920’s- 1930’s The search for alternative materials to natural ones such as ivory, tortoiseshell and bone represents a decisive moment in the history of eyeglasses. The stage of a necessary path toward modernity and the transition from a handicraft dimension to industrial eyewear, even if manual operation is still an essential and valuable element in the realisation of each collection. The great revolution of the century is therefore represented by the discovery of plastics, particularly those which were flexible and eclectic, which lent itself perfectly to the faithful reproduction of the materials hitherto used, which had become increasingly expensive and rare. Celluloid was patented in America on 12 July 1870 by John Wesley Hyatt who, attracted by the prize offered up (10 thousand U.S. dollars), participated in a competition run by an American company looking for a material to replace ivory in the production of billiard balls. In Italy, the first large factory of this innovative material was opened in 1924 in Castiglione Olona, in the province of Varese (SIC, Società Italiana della Celluloide, the Italian Celluloid Company). It was only the starting point of a long search that would bring the Mazzucchelli family to become market leaders in plastics such as acetate. Celluloid turned out not to be the perfect solution for the final creation of new products and was permanently banned in 1954 because it is easily flammable. The “witness” of the search for plastic materials goes to, among others, Giulio Natta who, in the same year, invents polypropylene and receives the Nobel Prize in 1963. The eyeglasses of the 1920’s-1930’s still offer recognisable constructive elements from the past, such as hints of the pince-nez, very small or large and rounded circles, sometimes made in celluloid and metal. Models which were not too far from those that returned to vogue in subsequent years in a continuous course and recourse of fashions. Even the war and its aftermath influenced style: aviator glasses, created into the 1930’s, will forever remain an icon and will be continuously replicated in all eras, over time losing any reference to their initial use in the collective imagination.


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1920’s-1930’s

Sunglass model from the 1930’s in plastic, USA.


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&ROMTHETOPtwo optical frames: in nickel silver and completely covered by plastic and spiral side ends, approximately 1930; in nickel silver with coated circles, approximately 1920.


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1940’s- 1950’s

/NTHEPREVIOUSPAGEeyeglass case in painted silk with golden zipper and chain, Gatto 1950. /NTHISPAGEextroverted two-tone sunglasses in celluloid and rhinestones in the form of ivy leaves. Part of the “Diva” line, inspired by the animal and vegetable world and made by Lozza at the end of the 1940’s.

Fashion and films were the main driving force in the development of eyeglasses over the years of this period. Especially the sunglasses that the divas of Hollywood, and not only, wore to protect themselves from the persistent flashes of photographers, captured as they descended the stairs of aircraft. On the screen, glasses for eyesight were used almost solely to better portray the characters. Just think of Marilyn Monroe as the myopic klutz in “How to Marry a Millionaire” by John Negulesco, 1953, or the bumbling scientist Cary Grant with his thick frames in the film “Monkey Business” in 1952 by Howard Hawks, or even the clip-on sunglasses that emphasised the arrogant swagger of Jett Rink (alias James Dean) in “Giant” by George Stevens in 1956. Without detracting from the legend, James Dean actually suffered from myopia that made him squint his eyes to better focus images, making him look particularly intriguing.


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1940’s-1950’s

&ROMTHETOPanother two-tone sunglass model in celluloid and rhinestones, inspired by ants and part of the “Diva” line by Lozza, made at the end of the 1940’s; another Lozza model from the 1940’s in plastic and rhinestones.


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Women’s eyeglasses frame in metal, rimless at its lower part and with celluloid terminals, USA, approximately 1950.

Women’s glasses of that period had the form of a butterfly, elongated at the temples, or “cat’s eye”, as they say across the Atlantic. They were sometimes decorated with rhinestones and plastic to imitate other materials such as mother of pearl or translucent stones, while the decorations were inspired by nature. In the men’s eyeglasses, lenses had no curvature, the shapes ranged from square to slightly square and constructive elements that were to be replicated later appeared for the first time. These were the years, interrupted by the war, where the most important fashion houses were born. Those that would go on to forever establish the boundaries between good and bad taste, defining the exact parameters of style, with a capital S. In the sun, many cult models were born, transmitted to future generations mainly by film stars like Marcello Mastroianni, Marlon Brando, Steve McQueen, but also through music, when these two worlds didn’t overlap, like with the case of Elvis Presley who in his excessive life was both a singer and actor. Eyeglasses followed changes of taste at a distance and were only marginally affected by designers, but still they absorbed this new culture of aesthetics; they made it their own, internalised it, although it would be some time before they are recognised in full as fashion accessories and then on the catwalk.


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1940’s-1950’s

&ROMTHETOPbox-package of a sunglass model made by the Cadore company Foc in the 1940’s; one of the first models from the 1950’s from the Lozza Zilo line. The lenses were fastened with screws to the celluloid bridge.


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&ROMTHETOPLozza sunglasses from the 1940’s in tortoiseshell celluloid; decorated leather case made by the Cadore company Fendon in the 1950’s.


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/NTHEPREVIOUSPAGEdetails of the Lozza brochure diffused in the 1940’s. &ROMTHETOPONTHISPAGE folding frames made by Ratti at the end of the 1950’s, highlighted with brand seal of Meflecto, an original system still used today to make the Persol model side ends flexible; metal case with special production process made in the 1940’s by the company Gatto. Famous Ray-Ban Wayfarer model, born in 1952 in the USA.


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1940’s-1950’s


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The original sketch of a brochure from the 1940’s and a leather case from the 1950’s by the Cadore company Fedon.


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Glitter effect on the American model from the 1960’s in coloured plastic with metal chain replacing the side ends.


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1960’s- 1970’s

Eyeglass frames in celluloid with decorations on the side arms, made in the 1960’s by a Cadore company.

Audrey Hepburn’s gesture of looking out beyond her unisex sunglasses or while, in evening dress and dark glasses, to always lingers at dawn to have breakfast in front of the windows of the jeweller Tiffany’s in New York has remained forever engraved not only in the history of cinema, but also in that of fashion. The 1960’s meant contrasts thanks to (and by fault of) the beginning of globalisation, that lead to the assertion of certain consumer patterns and some lifestyles, but also returned a broader and more complex view of what was happening in the world, transmitting information from one part of the globe and allowing, in real time, to share emotions and revolutions overseas. It was the early 1960’s when Fernanda Pivano translated the works of the “boys” of the Beat Generation, but already much earlier, in 1948, he had met Ernest Hemingway in Cortina and had begun that sophisticated task of infiltrating American culture through the mesh now loosened in Europe where, a little tired of the respectable person stereotypes, people were eager for novelty and stimulation to get out of provincialism. In his book “Beat, Hippie, Yippie,” he recalled that night in the mid 60’s at the Berkeley Community Theatre when Bob Dylan for the first time (miraculously) was not booed as he sang “Mr. Tambourine Man.” He describes the New Look (nothing at all to do with that the Christian Dior in the 1940’s), where “green and yellow glasses” were combined for the most eccentric and diverse. That new and “involved” language that united writers, poets and musicians coincided in fact with a new way to find expression in art and fashion, as seen in the passage in the words of Fernanda Pivano, “to the creative and rebellious phase of the dress that was invented instead of endured,” but it is known that all revolutions, deep down, also pass inevitably via clothing. Eyeglasses therefore became a means of communication and for asserting individuality. They appeared on stages as concerts, they became Pop in all senses, as seen in several models, transposition of Pop Art, which had as its starting point comics and contemporary images suggested by the new myths of consumerism, or were influenced by Optical Art, which focused


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&ROMTHETOPsome models from the 1960’s in plastic with eye slits like the Lapp protective eyeglasses, France; with elongated sunglass lenses and slightly enveloping frames, Italy; black and white chequered inspired by Optical Art, Italy.


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Eyeglass frames in plastic made in the 1960’s by a Cadore company.

instead on visual effects and black and white. They were psychedelic, had coloured lenses and sometimes enveloping forms. In Europe and in England, and especially in swinging London, the privileged place of “it” fashion, but also of music, seeing as the boys from Liverpool came from there. It was, however, an Italian, a certain Pierre Cardin (stage name of Pietro Cardin, born in the province of Treviso) who created the first Beatles outfit in the 1960’s: collarless, profiled jackets. Two decades of social and political events which directly influenced and sometimes distorted well-rooted customs and traditions. There is everything and its opposite: the dangerously tilting pelvis of exuberant Elvis Presley and the timid introspection of Bob Dylan. The chic elegance of Audrey Hepburn and the transgressions and bleached hair of Edie Sedgwick, muse of Andy Warhol. The inguinal miniskirts of Mary Quant and the unforgettable little black dress by Givenchy...And, in 1969, fantasy exceeds reality: the first walk on the moon makes us imagine a futuristic future, influencing the catwalks which suddenly become the scenes of a dream, visions of the future. Even eyeglasses themselves live the contradictions. There is a sharp dichotomy between extra large or very small sunglasses or fashion show glasses sculptures, works of art or gadgets - and the terribly banal eyeglasses, especially in the 1970’s, even if you could feel in the air that something was changing. In 1970, the first edition of Mido (International Optics, Optometry and Ophthalmology Exhibition) was organised, with only 140 exhibitors, but destined to grow stratospherically in the coming years. In the early editions, fashion house brands are completely absent. These in later years will come to represent the added value of many collections, the “sine qua non” (a necessary precondition). One interesting piece of information: in 1974, Andy Warhol created a portrait of Yves Saint Laurent without glasses. The French designer, when he saw his companion Pierre Bergé, said: “It’s beautiful, incredible, he was right to remove the glasses”, forgetting that, in 1971, in a famous photo by Sieff Jeanloup for advertising a perfume, he appeared with his glasses. But completely nude.


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1 9 6 0 ’ s - 1 9 70 ’ s

&ROMTHETOPmetal, flower-shaped sunglasses with filigree detail, USA, 1960’s. One of the first Christian Dior models from the 1960’s in metal decorated with stones and rhinestones.


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&ROMTHETOPsunglass model by Emilio Pucci from the late 1970’s-early 1980’s with plastic transparent, coloured and gradient frames; eyeglass frames in celluloid-metal made in Italy during the 1960’s-1970’s.


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1 9 6 0 ’ s - 1 9 70 ’ s

Two folding models by Pierre Cardin from the 1970’s: eyeglasses with square lenses and frames in dark tortoiseshell acetate and eyeglasses in light tortoiseshell with an asymmetrical shape.


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&ROMTHETOPtortoiseshell acetate sunglasses by Jean Lafont, Paris, 1970’s; Christian Dior eyeglass frames from the 1970’s made in Optyl, innovative plastic material patented in the late 1960’s.


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1980’s-1990’s

&ROMTHETOPthe angels that appear on the mirrored lenses of the sunglasses in metal are that of the unmistakable brand of Fiorucci from the 1980’s; in the 1980’s, Gianni Versace revolutionised fashion with eyeglasses such as these, an important model in metal and acetate with gradient lenses.


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1980’s- 1990’s

Also in the 1980’s, coloured transparent plastic eyeglasses made by a Cadore company.

Even if it were the fashion and design that made eyeglasses attractive, certainly in the early 1980’s it was the final consumer, who had become more and more fashion-conscious but also much more informed, to establish the course of this evolutionary process. Essential here was the emergence in the 1980’s, of some major brands that would go on to write the history of “Made in Italy” products and spread them throughout the world, conveying their style through accessories, including sunglasses. The aesthetic research went hand in hand with that of technology. Industry companies compared themselves daily with other contexts, from which they can draw information and know-how to transfer into their production processes, adapting to the glasses. In the 1980’s, aesthetic parameters changed because, in the meantime, even lifestyles have undergone changes. Away went the illusions and a certain romanticism of the 1960’s and 1970’s, and in came a return to practicality and pragmatism that express themselves in a more aggressive look, especially for women (now busy on the career front), who wore quite squared sunglasses with noncurved lenses, vague references to men’s models (as indeed happens in fashion) and decorations that were developed mainly at the eyelashes, highlighted by important or interesting material combination details. But, as always, fashion offers many opportunities and chances; everything and its opposite. In fact, towards the end of the 1980’s, minimalist fashion burst onto the scene, which incorporated a carat definition in the mid-60’s for an art movement born in America (Minimal Art). The shapes of glasses, especially for vision, became ever smaller, often retrieved from the past, even from the 1800’s and early 1900’s (many designers were inspired by pieces from private collections or from pieces retrieved in vintage shops) and research oriented toward lightness, towards materials that could also express this concept visually. Certainly not a concept foreign to the history of eyeglasses. Simply think of some of the eyeglasses from the 1700’s-1800’s which were made in very thin tortoiseshell, although the technological approach that now supported this research and that allowed


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1980’s-1990’s

&ROMTHETOP metal sunglass model from the early 1980’s in neo-hippie style by designer Claude Montana, characterised by an original geometric shape of the overlapping coloured lenses and the contrasting acetate side arms; Swatch sunglass model designed in 1991 by architect Alessandro Mendini, as an emanation of the famous Swiss watch brand. The front piece is interchangeable; asymmetric sunglasses from the 1980’s by Alain Mikli in two-tone acetate.


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easy exploration of new ways to reach goals were certainly new. Comparison were made with other countries, not only regarding technology but also cultural, to be able to recreate in eyeglasses those statements and visual suggestions that could be recognised by consumers, who were increasingly global and increasingly interested in quality and intrinsic value. Already in the 1990’s, themes related to ecology began to emerge, while some hedonistic concepts in the 1980’s translated into a pursuit of well-being and comfort that banned certain harmful component materials, such as nickel from metal. Things began to orient themselves towards the use of natural materials or materials that reproduced a natural effect through sophisticated processing, like for example the aerospace industry, to share the experiences of new avenues of research. Fashion established a bond stronger with eyeglasses and companies decided to accept an important opportunity: that of sport (does that remind you of something?). Suspended between being and appearance, between the past and the future, eyeglasses were about to experience the challenges of the 21st century or, even more, of the third millennium.


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1980’s-1990’s

These two-tone acetate glasses from the 1980’s with a profile that resembles a palm are signed “Michèle Lamy pour Victor Gros”; large female sunglasses by Lozza from the 1980’s in transparent and tortoiseshell plastic.


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Two models by Gianfranco Ferré from the late 1990’s-early 2000’s; the frame-jewel is illuminated by a real zircon.


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1980’s-1990’s

&ROMTHETOPeyeglass frames by Jean Lafont from the 1990’s in multi-coloured acetate and rimless at the bottom part; sunglass model by Claude Montana in acetate and metal, made by Alain Mikli in the 1990’s; Fendi sunglass model from the 1980’s in acetate with gradient lenses, characterised by the logo that decorates the side ends and front piece.


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&ROMTHETOPa Trussardi model in plastic from the 1990’s; vintage-inspired eyeglass frames made in metal, acetate and rhinestones by the Kador company in the 1980’s.


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1980’s-1990’s

&ROMTHETOPeyeglass frames from the 1990’s: Sting in tortoiseshell acetate; Metalflex in coated steel and spiral side ends; from 1987, the acetate and metal model with double bridge made by the Cadore company.


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&ROMTHETOPTrussardi eyeglass frames in wood and metal from the 1990’s; a eyeglass line model that Ornella Vanoni designed in 1985 for the company Kador; women’s frames from the 1990’s by Giorgio Armani in tortoiseshell acetate with rhinestone decorations.


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1980’s-1990’s

&ROMTHETOPa special, limited edition in 1991 of the Swatch eyeglasses in metal and acetate, made as a Christmas gift; “Occhio degli dei” (Eyes of the Gods), the first sunglass model made in 2001 by Roberto Cavalli: aviator shaped in metal, mirrored lenses and side protections in coloured python.


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T h e 2 0 th c e n t u r y a n d c o n t e m p o r a r y e y e g l a s s e s

Eyeglass frames from the 1990’s in plastic and metal with chains in place of side arms


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Let’s face it!

Facce da MIDO! Have you ever dreamt of being the protagonist of a photographic shooting

The time is now! MIDO and Mazzucchelli, in cooperation with 20/20 Europe magazine, present “Facce da MIDO – LET’S FACE IT”, a funny and brilliant idea that involves all MIDO’s visitors during the fair

and experiencing the

If you want to be part of it, we’re waiting for you.

chance to see your

Every day, Design Lab - pavillion 24. Be there wearing your glasses, enter the vintage style photo booth and just smile for a funny shot. Don’t forget to wear your glasses... They are the co-star!

face published in 20/20 europe magazine?

Design Lab pavillion 24

All the snapshots will be published on line (Facebook and 20/20 europe App) and a jury panel will draw up an analysis on a group of shots comparing the choise of glasses with face shape, style, makeup, color of the skin, etc. Furthermore, a selected number of photographs - together with advices about fashion and style, will be published in a 20/20 europe special issue (June 2013), but only one shot will gain the cover of this special edition. Come on, don’t be shy! Your face could be that one. Just say “Cheese”, and it’s a done deal.


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A special thanks to Museo dell’Occhiale in Pieve di Cadore (BL) Italy


DESIGNER INTERVIEW

9LVLWXVDW0LGR Hall 24 Stand L05 / March 2-4 M A R C H 2 01 3 www.seraphinframes.com | 1.888.560.1060

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TRENDS FEATURE

Affordable Wonders Looking for fashion-forward designs that are easy on the wallet? 20/20 EUROPE went in search of some must-see collections with an up-to-the-minute take on fashion.

F

ashion detailing has come into its own across the board for the season

Eco elegance

ahead. From deco style details to trendy materials with special coloura-

Modo has introduced a unique addition to its eco brand ECO BORN BIOBASED

tions, the mid-priced collections are offering a variety of ideas for trend-

collection. This new line consists of six styles made from plant-based materials.

oriented consumers.

The collection has been certified by the USDA as being made of 63% biobased

Realising that there is a growing need to produce individual designs with

materials. The new collection continues to support the three main initiatives of

plenty of energy and design content, each of these collections has a differ-

eco 2.0, which are “Look good, feel good, do good.� Eco Born Biobased is styl-

ent direction in terms of trends and style so there is something to please

ish and the styles are lightweight and brightly coloured. Packaging is made from

even the most fashion-conscious customer.

recycled materials, in keeping with the overall philosophy of the brand.

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TRENDS FEATURE

Tortoise trend Actman+Mico’s Firecrest is a classy rectangular shape showing off the current

Women’s wonders

trend for using two tone acetates, with the front as a classic tortoise teamed

The new Vogue Eyewear collection is elegant and vivacious with three categories

with tonal crystal. Actman+Mico is a line by The Optopast Actman Eyewear Com-

of style for different types of women. From the fashionable and ironic style of

pany in the UK. Designed by Andrew Actman and Janice Mico, the range aims to

In Vogue, designed for those who are always interested in the latest trends, to

be imaginative and individual, styled for those who wish to be noticed in their

the contemporary and sophisticated taste of Casual Chic, targeting your women

frames, and combining an innovative amalgamation of quality materials, colours

who follow an original, modern and versatile look, and finally to the classic and

and finishes.

refined frames in Timeless, designed for those who see themselves as elegant, feminine and appreciate subtle details and luxurious quality. For the girl who wants “Casual Chic”, Model VO3827 S is a glamorous oversized frame embellished using injection moulding and coloured enamel.

Swinging 60s

Back to its roots

The 60s are in vogue again, with curvy shapes and bright pop colours being more

Modo goes back to its roots with its Spring/Summer 2013 collection by adding

and more sought after. Model AR21257593 is an example of one of the sunglass

styles to their signature acetate and titanium lines while also introducing a new

styles in the Agatha Ruiz De La Prada Collection for woman. Made of two-tone

series of new shaved acetate frames, super thin titanium looks and two vintage

acetate – pictured here, the Havana and violet version, the style has an easy-to-

pieces. MODO’s designs are known for their incredible attention to detail and

wear retro design and Sixties style direction. The Spanish designer, Agatha Ruiz de

superior quality. All pieces are handmade and finished in Japan, according to the

la Prada’s sunglasses and glasses collections are produced by Optim.

company.

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TRENDS FEATURE

cK for easy vintage chic The cK Calvin Klein collection by Marchon includes classic styles reinvented to create a bold and youthful yet sophisticated eyewear line. Vintage shapes and classic silhouettes are modernized and fashioned to meet the demands of a uniquely stylish individual.

Hally’s Horn Allison launches the new collection of natural horn sunglasses by Hally and Son, a precious collection in buffalo horn, a material known for its lightness and strength. “Mr Hally was a craftsman who in his spare time and using scraps and leftover stock was trying to create a special concept for eyeglasses; he aspired to teach Preppy Denim

his art to his son; he was an entrepreneur who lived a dream.”

The Tommy Hilfiger Group has introduced a new “Preppy Denim” Sunglasses line

This collection, which traces a special history of a frame manufacturer, celebrates

for S/S 2013. The unisex model draws inspiration from the Tommy Hilfiger brand’s

the uniqueness of handcrafting traditions, according to the company.

classic, American cool lifestyle with a modern preppy twist.

Each model found in Hally’s archive, due to the elegant lines and timeless shapes,

Featuring temples bearing the Tommy Hilfiger logo, the iconic square shaped

seemed like it came straight out of a black and white movie; the models have

model comes in a range of colours including a transparent blue/white with blue

been re-interpreted in 8 styles, both optical and sun, mostly unisex, all with flex

denim and brown lenses. The collection has a preppy feel, youthful attitude and

hinges, each of which is associated with one year of the Hally and Son company

timeless style.

archives and simply named TYPE I, TYPE 3, TYPE 8. The Hally & Son collection is

Produced by the Sàfilo Group.

now available through selected opticians and will debut officially at Mido 2013.

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TRENDS FEATURE

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NEW PRODUCTS

Men’s

From top: The Lapö frame by OPAL is sure to make an impact. Its concept embodies the brand’s character. There are three acetate models and two models with cut-out metal fronts. These have temples decorated with two small squares in laminated acetate - a classy touch of inlay! Rened details, sophisticated colour effects, bold trendy shapes: with all these ingredients, success is assured! Barnie by Gotti Switzerland is one of ve new horn designs by Gotti. The exclusive material is used with elaborate craftsmanship. The new Model “6 vor 6” in “Jungle Rough” by ic! berlin, a frame offered in three combos with a retro feel front and cool technical temple typical of the label

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NEW PRODUCTS

style

A selection of on-trend frames for men….look for chic, less common shapes, clever, detail, and attention to the way the materials are played out.

From top: Model UA15232612 is a sunglass style by U DE ADOLFO DOMÍNGUEZ - the young collection from Adolfo Domínguezby OPTIM. The sunglasses are made of matt acetate with marbled paint; James 6 from the theo by JAMES Van Vossel collection, a line that features frames with integrated nose pads is a round trendy shape with full character

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NEW PRODUCTS

A splash

From top: Murk by Fleye comes in size 55 16-140. It’s a big frame with thin acetate design, combining the modern oversized look with something elegant and lightweight; KKV30v by Kaos from AREA98, offers solar hues, and is full of energy. Kaos frames offer colorful palettes thanks to Native American-inspired geometrical shapes recreated through decorations in metal and colored resin applied on the arms; ZB03 by ZOOBUG, the new wayfarer-inspired style by ZOOBUG. The style comes in bright and uo shades of fuchsia, navy, uo blue and metallic/clear. Fitted with protective Polarised UV400 lenses; J F REY model JF1266 has a sporty chic feel and PVD treatment to ensure hard-wearing performance.

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NEW PRODUCTS

of colour

Colour is a great way to dress the face. It’s the way forward in 2013 as fashion plays with many colour codes….

From top: ProDesign 4128, part of the 4th Dimension from ProDesign. An amazing feminine retro shape in colourful combinations, 3 shapes available in 3 to 5 colours each; classic shape Casablanca by L.G.R. Sunglasses from Rome, one of the company’s new elegant optical styles in acetate; PIU 19 by Oko by Oko Paris is part of a very colourful collection for men and women with, says the company, a strong added-value in terms of material and colour choices and most of all, very recognizable at rst sight.

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NEW PRODUCTS

Eyewear treats for a new

From top: PH 3075 from the Ralph Lauren Collection by Luxottica combines special technical mechanisms and excusive details in both functionality and style. The frame is a unique Ralph Lauren masterpiece for drivers, according to the company; B225 from the Borsalino Eyewear collection by Brands O.I. srl. Made in Italy the style is a sunglass with a unique shape in elegant high-quality acetate; OKIA’s new Kaleidoscope Concept is trendy and colourful; the Kaleidoscope Collection is specically designed to brighten up your springtime. Its rare colour combination will denitely make your style enviable. Kaleidoscope textures spread all along the temples giving the wearer a charming and joyful look

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NEW PRODUCTS

season

Special metal work, innovative hinges, products exclusively for driving and stylistic achievements in high-quality materials are some of the highlights to be enjoyed in the collections for the season ahead‌

From top: Harrison by Garrett Leight offers classic design for the discerning eyewear customer; the model has a trendy round shape; Anna Sui model AS570 by Mondottica features elegant roses in metal work which give a feeling of vintage jewellery; Ouranos from MOKO Besicles is a style for men, 100% made in France, and featuring simple forms, minimalist lines and featuring sophisticated highend materials

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NEW PRODUCTS

From top: Hemisphere™ from Adlens: Available in both clear and sunglasses, Hemisphere™ light weight and durable eyewear provides instant vision and immediate dispensing at near, intermediate and far distance. FluidInjection lenses enable instant vision with a turn of a dial. Simple and easy to use, they cover a wide range of spherical powers from -4.5D to +3.5D; Runaway by Henry Jullien features a new hinge with a leaf— spring and frames shapes with elegant uid lines

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MOD. KKV307.02 www.area98.it

NEW PRODUCTS

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EVOLVE LIFE STYLE BNL EUROLENS has developed a Nylon Gradient Photochromic lens. The Nylon Gradient photochromic lens “Evolve Life Style” is compatible with acetate and 3 piece sunglasses. Evolve photochromic lenses from BNL Eurolens will protect your eyes against the sun any time, any where and in any condition. Our Active Cell Technology is scientifically formulated to change from light to dark in just a few seconds, providing just the right level of protection when needed. Whether it is for Fashion, Urban or Life Style uses, the latest Nylon Gradient Photochromic lenses are the answer for maximum protection and convenience. The “Evolve Life Style” line from BNL Eurolens are specifically designed for people on the move. For more information, join us on: www.bnl-eurolens.com

This third collection of ZILLI eyewear uses an exclusive mix of Japanese titanium and acetate for maximum lightness and robustness, with 24-carat gold or platinum detailing. Each model has hand-polished cellulose acetate arms, reminiscent to touch of the emblematic ZILLI silks. Buoyed by the growing recognition of professional opticians, ZILLI eyewear is available in Russia, France, Italy and China. The Limitless line, hand crafted, now includes new sunglasses, with two models incorporating black leather details. Veneers are made in Japan, the models proposed in ovals or rectangles with simple bridges and structured angles. Chevrons, 3D inlays in red, beige and black, tortoiseshell and deep gray combinations, underline the touch of modernity. The Legend new line has been christened Grand skieur, with the detail being in the temples and end-pieces. A flexible hinge integrated into the temple is the result of 12 months R&D in Japan and significantly improves comfort. Models are rectangular or oval with double bridges in metal finish. Sunglasses are rectangular with over-sized or double bridges. Frames are oval aviators, or rectangular with an offset bridge. ZILLI eyewear now offers approximately 35 different styles. Harald Heider, Director of the eyewear department, says: «We’re moving in the right direction. The acknowledgement of professionals and our presence in around fifty highly exclusive points of sale has consolidated ZILLI eyewear’s position as a specialist brand. » www.zilli.fr

Carrera, the iconic brand owned by Safilo Group, is presenting exclusively at the 2013 MIDO its new eyewear collection of both optical frames and sunglasses. The design philosophy of the brand highlighted four main themes: CARRERA/ICONS, sunglasses that recall the “best of” from the historical archive reinterpreted in a modern twist such as the legendary Carrera 6000; CARRERA/MUSES, the retro and vintage inspired frames mixed with contemporary features such as the mirrored lenses on the curvy Carrera 6002; CARRERA/CRAZE, the young collection characterized by bold styles, bright colours and the new VICTORY C®LOGO embedded into the arms such as in the Carrera 5001 model; and the CARRERA/ ACTIVE pieces, dedicated to outdoor activities featuring a high tech specification and trendy rubber details on the arms such as in the Carrera 59 style. The celebration of the brand will culminate in an event on March 2nd, the “Carrera Ignition Night”, which will be touring throughout the world and landing in cities such as Madrid, New York, Beijing and Sao Paolo. Carrera was founded by Austrian frame producer Wilhelm Anger in 1956, who took inspiration from the legendary South American car race “Carrera Panamericana”. The brand was then acquired by Safilo Group in 1996. Over the years it has developed the “racing attitude” within the DNA of the brand and generated iconic shapes such as Champion with its unique aviator shape in Optyl. The brand has also become very popular with international celebrities such as Jenson Button, Brad Pitt and Jessica Alba. www.safilo.com

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www.hilton-eyewear.com Hilton Eyewear has been established for over 30 years in in the optical industry, producing and distributing quality eyewear under the Hilton brand. Quality and Innovation in the Luxury sector is what the brand prides itself on. There will be a new collection for Mido 2013 where the use of high quality materials, like strass, 24kt gold plating, titanium and high quality acetate are a regular feature throughout the range. One innovative feature will be the reversible temple concept where in one frame you can have two completely different looks. There are also some high quality titanium’s and acetates in the men’s and unisex range as well as a generous use of Swarovski crystals in the ladies collection. The range is designed in London, the world fashion capital, and manufactured in carefully selected factories with specialised skills. Historically we have always made high quality frames such as Hilton classic gold filled made in England and 24kt gold plated made in Italy The entire Hilton Collection is beautifully packaged and with promo material to support retailers. Before you do anything else at Mido the Hilton collection this year simply must be seen! In addition to the Hilton Collection, at Mido we will also be showcasing our new Oxford, Senator and Panda Kids collections. There will also be a selection of unrestricted famous designer brands at special clearance prices and no minimum quantity. This year at Mido whether you are a retailer, wholesaler or distributor there will be a deal for you Guaranteed! Stand No: Pav 15 K30 VINTAGE EYEWEAR Hilton International Eyewear based in London (UK) has been distributing designer eyewear internationally for over 40 years. During this time we have acquired an extensive collection of both famous designer and rare niche branded eyewear from reputed manufacturers. We have a passion for one of kind designs and brands with rich histories, therefore our collections contain some of the most unique and beautifully crafted vintage eyewear produced in Europe, dating back to the 1970s. Some examples of the brands and unique pieces we stock include: • Christian Dior frames and sunglasses (Made in Austria & West Germany from 80’s) • World famous Porsche Design Aviators sunglasses (Made in Germany from 80’s) • 1970s Saville Row gold filled frames (Made in England made in 80’s) • 24kt gold plated Bugatti eyewear from (Made in Italy from the 80’s) • Unique Cazal sunglasses with eccentric designs (Made in west Germany from 80’s) • Classic Gold and acetate Cartier – timeless quality and style (Made in Paris 90’s) Other brands include pieces designed by Iconic fashion houses such as Gucci, Christian Lacroix, Paloma Picasso, Alfred Dunhill and many more from 70’s, 80’s and 90’s. The pieces are all unworn and in pristine condition and many of them with their original case, certificates and packaging. Some of eyewear is very rare and only available from Hilton eyewear. We pride ourselves being one of the few authentic sellers of rare vintage eyewear in the world. Please visit our stand (Pav. 15 stand: K30) at Mido 2013 where we will be showcasing the unique vintage pieces. Alternatively you can visit our headquarters in London or subsidiary in New York (www.ebkeyewear.com). For further information or to arrange an appointment please visit our website www.hilton-eyewear.com or email sales@ hilton-eyewear.com

Vintage Christian Dior from 1980's

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Hilton with reversible temple

Hilton with Swarovski Elements

Vintage Carrera made in Austria

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EVOLUTION Darwin teaches the “evolution” concept, which is why Borsalino Eyewear decided to propose a more aggressive style, similar at today’s youth one, symbol of our society’s growth in its seventh collection. This change is especially reflected in three new models in the male line, available in wide range of colors, playing between shiny and matte textures. The B229, a pair of glasses with a current, strong and attractive design, for “a man who never has to ask.” B230, sunglasses with aggressive and full of personality temples for a new style and elegance. Finally, the B231, characterized by an emphasis on handmade precision, attention to detail and a careful choice of materials. All three models are embellished on the temples with extremely tough clips marked with the logo of the fashion house. Also evolving, it is essential to remain unique. Brands O.I. laser engraves a serial number in the inside temple of each pair of glasses that allows the tracking and the uniqueness of your 100% Made in Italy accessory. Brands O.I. will be at MIDO March 2 to 4, in the Fashion District square, Hall 13, location K17-L18. www.brands-oi.it

Eschenbach is an excellent example of a medium-sized company of global standing, which was successfully managed over many years by several generations of the founding family and now continues to be just as successfully led by its current management team. The company’s corporate philosophy is based on the principles of courage, foresight, a sense of responsibility and an open corporate culture - and these are the values that will ensure its continued success in the future. Today, the Eschenbach Group is the largest German eyewear supplier worldwide, it is Number 8 on the international market, the market leader for eyewear frames and quality binoculars in Germany and the worldwide market leader for optical vision aids manufactured in its own production facilities. The Eyewear Division is characterised by ground-breaking events such as the introduction of TITANflex® and through continuous innovations. In addition, the division offers a wide spectrum of fashion and styles themes across its range of brands and continues to be a trendsetter in this market sector. Innovation and a high level of precision are the key principles on which the newest division “Technical Optics” is based. In just a few years, with its optical plastic components developed and manufactured in-house, this division has become a reliable partner in the high-tech sector. As we head into the second century of our company’s history, international orientation and the development of new, innovative products remain firmly in the focus. www.eschenbach.com

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www.brands-oi.it

M A R C H 2AT 01 3 MIDO 2013 - PAV. 13 BOOTH K17 L18 PREMIERE

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Italian eyewear specialists, l.g.r, announces its newest creation the safari limited edition, an incarnation of a traveler’s journeys within the vast and dreamy landscapes of africa. inspired by the continent’s wild beauty and romantic surroundings, the collection is comprised of two sophisticated silhouettes, in four color combinations. each model is created for a voyage throughout lush green forests, smooth sand dunes, boundless oceans, and warm savannas. for every frame there is a special tempered mineral glass lens adapted for each voyage where light conditions may very from strong blazing rays of sun to patchy shadows. the collection is elegantly enclosed within a dark brown leather case and is limited to 100 pieces. made only from cellulose acetate, each frame undergoes a tumbling process with beech and birch wood to prepare them for the final step, which is polishing by hand. entirely hand crafted in italy by expert artisans, this dynamic and elegant collection was created for the love of adventure, and a safari’s escape. www.lgr-sunglasses.com

OKO by OKO Paris THE EYEWEAR DESIGNER PRESENTS ITS NEW PIU LINE A COLORFUL MIX OF ACETATE & RUBBER A new line has been emerged from the French design offices of OKO by OKO Paris. The PIU line. A very colorful and delightful collection for men and women with a strong addedvalue in terms of material and colors choices and most of all, very recognizable at first sight ! OKO by OKO has indeed a strong signature when it comes to colored optical frames. The key point for this specific collection is the right materials combination that has been given to it : a brilliant mix of acetate and rubber that confers on the frame lightness, comfort and a great feel of quality without forgetting innovation and differentiation ! Lets not be afraid of being frank : this miracle comes from the talent of our in house designer David BEDDOK who knows, collection after collection, how to give, to followers of originality, emotions and satisfactions. The miracle of a new collection stands right here : in the art dedicated to each brand to present even more unbelievable frames year after year, show after show, but always keeping in mind the identity, the philosophy and the signature of a name with strong values of differentiation, of innovation, of comfort and quality. This is the OKO by OKO motto. A brand DNA that is clear, identified and faithful to its values. Of course, tastes and preferences are a personal matter and some of us are totally fond of one brand, when others would rather prefer this other frame but after all, all that matters and concern us all, collection after collection, is the one and only value of passion conveyed through each single new model that comes out. This is precisely the motto at OKO by OKO and that is driving the two managers of the brand Philippe ZEITOUN & David BEDDOK to an endless search towards forever createur models, forever innovative, forever original and forever OKO by OKO. WWW.OKO-EYEWEAR.COM

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VIEW FROM THE US

O Man!

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ord is the subject this time around is… Men’ Eyewear. Stateside at 20/20 we’ve been bonkers for the power of men’s eyewear for about six strong years now, dating back to a powerful initiative and feature series originally dubbed Modern Man and centering on how increasingly important eyewear is in a man’s life, as a vision enhancement certainly but also as a powerful statement of a guy’s style and presence and identity. So that got me thinking about what might have been the case on my face if….if…I’d never landed at 20/20. I’m big on “stuff” as in cars, guitars, watches, cufflinks, sport gear…that kind of stuff. And back 16 years ago (right before I actually did start at 20/20) my preferences for sunglasses were already quite well-defined. I had a treasured pair of my dad’s Army Air Corp sunglasses (from AO in more of a Pilot rather than Aviator shape), a scruffed up pair of black Wayfarers (with a wicked rake to the facefront), a wacky old pair of flip up sunglasses specifically made for playing little league baseball and a HUGE desire to get myself a pair of Persols just like ones I’d spied on Steve McQueen in some pictures. I didn’t need “regular” (Rx) eyewear just yet but I did have a pair of VERY cheap readers since presbyopia was actually just entering my line of vision so to speak. These readers were in a squished round shape I now know as P3s or preppys. I thought they looked cool but my soon-to-be co-workers at 20/20 thought they looked frumpy and old-fashioned. Everyone was walking around in these elongated rectangles that constantly made someone look like they were squinting. I hated those. Still do. And when I finally “bought” a pair of glasses for reading I chose a relatively cheap but sturdy looking pair of plastic frames sourced from an American company called Shuron. The looked like I stole them off Clark Kent. I STILL have and use those Shurons. They are now fitted with special lenses from Shamir and I use those specs specifically for any reading on my computer. I have them on RIGHT NOW. And… all of my current frames (and there are a TON) all look similar to those original preppy readers in an assortment of zyls, metals and zyl/metal combinations. My current fave is a gun metal pair from John Varvatos with a saddle bridge and NO nosepads. And as far as I’m concerned I’m totally in style and more dedicated than ever to the look and identity and style of Men’s eyewear. And… I have a bunch of Persols but I’m always on the lookout for another pair just like Steve McQueen would be wearing right about now. And dad… this column’s for you and those wonderful AOs you once gifted me. I still have and treasure them. James J. Spina, 20/20 USA Editor-in-Chief Men’s fashion covers, 20/20 USA

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PPG ON GROWTH AND OPPORTUNITY CONTINUING EDUCATION CONTINUES NEW INNOVATIONS 2013


EUROPEAN LENSES +

TECHNOLOGY

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INTERVIEW Frederic Lefranc of PPG talks to EL&T

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CONTINUING EDUCATION SERIES The elements of visual merchandising By Barbara L. Wright

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his issue of EL&T is all about the direction of companies for 2013 and their aspirations in the European landscape. We interview Frederic Lefranc, Director Rx Sales EMEA/SE Asia, PPG Optical Materials and find out how the company see business growth and new opportunities in Europe for the year ahead. We also report on some innovations and new products that will be at the Milan fair this month, including announcements from Adlens and Safilens. With the weekend in Milan promising scope for new meetings and opportunity, we wish all who are visiting a successful Spring/Summer. Clodagh Norton, EDITOR


EUROPEAN LENSES & TECHNOLOGY

Interview

Moving forward

7 Frederic Lefranc presents the launch of Tribrid lenses in Germany along with partners at OPTI Munich in January 2013

EL&T interviewed PPG’s Frederic Lefranc, Director Rx Sales EMEA/SE Asia, PPG Optical Materials, in advance of MIDO 2013.

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hat are you launching at MIDO this weekend? We are pleased to announce the expansion of Tribrid lens availability in Italy two additional Italian optical laboratories - Shamir Italy and Avant Italiana. These companies have been committed to preparing the technical requirements and commercial strategies to ensure a successful launch of these unique high index lenses. Tribrid lenses are a perfect extension of their premium product range, offering a differentiated material foundation to complement their advanced digital lens design and coating technologies. What are the properties of the new lens material and what are the distinguishing features/ qualities? During the last 25 years, the goal in lens material development was to increase the refractive index, aligning more with the needs of the eyeglass wearers in Asia Pacific who tend to have higher prescriptions. These developments in lens materials were brought to Europe even though the majority of eyeglass wearers in this market do not require higher index lenses. Instead of focusing solely on increasing refractive index, PPG always stayed focused on the complete visual experience and comfort for the eyeglass wearer. Along with the development of Transitions lenses and Trivex material – and now Tribrid material – PPG strives to help eyeglass wearers expand their relationship with the world around them.

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Introducing

Redefining Thin Lenses Tribrid™ material is a revolutionary lens technology that combines the best lens properties to provide enhanced all-around performance for your patients with stronger prescription requirements.

clear > light > thin > strong clear > light > thin light > thin thin

Optical clarity Precision optics to optimize stronger prescriptions and meet your patients’ needs for clear vision at all times.

Thin and light The perfect balance of performance and comfort with the aesthetics and beauty of a thin lens.

1,74

1,67

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Tribrid™ lenses

Tribrid™ lenses are the result of unique hybrid material technology that combines Trivex® lens material with traditional high index technology.

Strong and durable A stronger lens for your patients with stronger prescriptions. Enhanced safety, durability, 100% <=WYV[LJ[PVUHUKJVUÄKLUJLPUL]LY`SLUZ

a r is ch • 2 0 1of 3PPG Industries E u rOhio, o pInc. ea ©2013 PPG Industries, Inc. All rights reserved. Trivex is a registered trademark and M Tribrid a trademark

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Lenses made with Tribrid™ material offer a better balance of performance features in the high index segment, and the recommendation is to promote Tribrid™ lenses up to +/-7 diopters. Tribrid™ material benefits are the followings: • Optical performance – Abbe Value of 41. Offering this attribute for prescriptions up to +/-7 diopters provides a strong benefit for those wearers who are very sensitive to any factor that may downsize their optical ability, especially in mid or low light situations, such as winter in Northern countries, or working at computers in poorly lit rooms. Also, an aging population that is losing lens transparency does benefit from wearing an ophthalmic lens that does not amplify the issue. • A highly durable and safe lens with complete UV protection, impact resistance approximately halfway between Trivex® material and other high index materials. • A lower density compared to existing high index lenses. As Tribrid™ lenses will be processed by most of the laboratories with a thickness comparable to other high index lenses, the wearer will enjoy an im-

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mediate benefit with lighter lenses. As the corrective power increases, the lightweight comparison between Tribrid™ lenses and other high index lenses becomes more noticeable. According to research among American eyeglass wearers, the most preferred lens attribute is lightness, followed by scratch resistance and thinness. The older the wearer, the more they prefer lightness with more than 50% of eyeglass wearers above 55 years old claiming that preference. (« Vision Council of America » market study with 100 000 lens wearers, 2008). So would an American patient be different to a European eyewear patient? • A high index material featuring a refractive index of 1,6 index. Tribrid™ lenses will be “competitively thin” – within 0.5mm for most prescriptions – to other 1,6 and 1,67 lenses. As a conclusion, while they are available in the complete power range, Tribrid ™ lenses provide an optimized combination of attributes in the +/-3 to +/-7 diopter lenses. Tribrid™ material perfectly completes the high end, premium material range with Trivex ® material sustaining the 0 to +3/-3 diopters segment.

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Summarise PPGâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s activities since last MIDO. Over the last year, we have continued to support our industry partners to develop new markets and opportunities for Tribrid lenses while further expanding the global availability of Trivex lenses. Earlier this year at OPTI Munich, we announced the launch of Tribrid lenses with four optical laboratories and one lens caster serving the German and Swiss markets. In February, Tribrid lenses became available through a leading Tunisian laboratory. Across all regions of the world, Trivex lens availability is expanding and we have continued our efforts to promote and educate about this product. We have also expanded our capability in providing lens processing and technical support to optical laboratories interested in Trivex and Tribrid lenses. With this support, we have helped many labs streamline the lens evaluation, equipment settings and processing parameters.

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Comment on activities in Europe particularly and specific news on growth strategies or developments in the European marketplace. Europe continues to be an important focus of our efforts in the commercialization of Tribrid lenses. The current European market share of high index lenses makes it a key region for a thin lens that provides more benefits to the patient in the form of crystal clear vision, lightweight comfort and protection from breakage and UV radiation. We are currently developing commercialization plans with laboratories and lens manufacturers in other countries within Europe to be announced later in 2013. As the availability of the product expands, we will communicate the benefits of Tribrid lenses to eye care professionals and grow the awareness and education about the product in Europe. In addition, we are supporting lens castersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; plans to commercialize the complete range of PPG performance optical materials. Trivex lenses will be launched

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through new lens casters in Europe and both Trivex and Tribrid lenses are available in the recently launched Transitions Signature VII lenses. The market continues to respond positively to PPGâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s performance lens materials by offering Trivex lenses for patients with low-tomoderate prescriptions and Tribrid lenses for patients with moderate-to-high prescriptions. With these two products, eye care professionals can provide wellbalanced lenses that will exceed the expectations of more than 95% of their patients. Please comment on 2013 and the business strategy going forward in Europe. The global economy continues to provide pressure across all segments of our business. However, the performance of the optical industry encourages us to promote our premium material strategy in a time when industry partners and eye care professionals are searching for a differentiated product offering.

For several years, the European optical market was heading into two main segments: Entry segment and advanced technologies. However, the offer segmentation may not have always been made clear to the ECP and end consumers. A consequence of this situation in these times of economic slow down is a price erosion in every segment, whether Entry or High, endangering the return on investment made by the chain on these new products. In order to help the industry keep margins and make value out of technically advanced materials, PPG has focused our efforts at explaining to the industry materials and their related segments to help generate awareness and understanding. To the benefit of the industry, Trivex material has experienced very solid sales growth in Europe over the past five years, and now with the support of Tribrid material, we expect this trend to consolidate.

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Continuing Education

The Elements of Visual Merchandising More Sales, Less Effort â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Part 1 "Y"ARBARA,7RIGHT #)$ "ARBARA7RIGHT$ESIGN

stbooks). Although eyewear distributors spend millions advertising their brands to consumers, the way you present their products in your optical dispensary can make or break your sales results and theirs. Effective eyewear displays meet all of these four basic shopper/patient needs. Merchandise 1. Is easily seen, 2. Is touchable and accessible, 3. Has enough choices but not too many and 4. Has clear visual cues to price and value.

Learning Objectives: At the conclusion of this course you should be able to: 1. Understand the principles of display design and the elements of eyewear display. 2. Learn the keys to effective merchandising for rigid or exible displays. 3. Understand the power of eye level display.

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HAT IS VISUAL MERCHANDISING AND WHAT CAN IT DO FOR ME? The art of displaying merchandise to enhance its sales appeal is called â&#x20AC;&#x153;visual merchandising.â&#x20AC;? In-store visual presentation is accountable for the majority of retail purchases according to Joseph Weishar, author of The Aesthetics of Merchandise Presentation (2005, stmediagroup.com/

WHY IS EYEWEAR DISPLAY DIFFICULT? Eyewear is different from other fashion products like clothing, shoes or handbags that have lots of mass and color. It is more like jewelry with little mass, lots of ne delicate details and subtle colors and materials that need to be seen up close to be appreciated. From a distance all frames look alike. Therefore, we have to entice the patient or shopper to come within armâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s length of the frames before they can begin to distinguish the dening details and colors. The overall look and feel of the retail area has to attract their attention and convince them that there are frame styles here worth a look.

Optical retailing is a lot like theatre. We set the stage with the dĂŠcor and lighting, but the frames are the stars of the show. Everything else is there to support the stars, not to upstage them. 102

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CHALLENGE #1: HIGH QUANTITIES OF PRODUCT TO DISPLAY The average eye care practice displays 500 to 800 frames and many have well over 1,000. However, the average human being’s short-term memory can only comfortably hold about seven items at any one time. Is it any wonder that when confronted with on wall-to-wall frame boards people get overwhelmed with too many choices? Displaying hundreds of small items in ways that persuade the customer to buy is no easy task even for a seasoned display professional. The good news about eyewear display is that you can almost always do better by having less peripheral “stuff” around. The mark of a “beginner” visual merchandiser is doing and having too much: using too many props, too many show cards, crowding far too many frames into a showcase or window display.

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CHALLENGE #2: INADEQUATE LIGHTING Optical dispensaries commonly suffer from inadequate lighting. Even luxury eyewear can look cheap if it is not properly lighted. Like jewelry it needs intense perfectly color-balanced white light aimed precisely at the top and front of the product. Halogen light bulbs with a color temperature rating of 3500 Kelvin are a good choice for optical track lighting because they bring out the sparkle and rich colors of eyewear and are relatively inexpensive. The drawback is that halogen lighting produces quite a bit of heat and requires lamp replacement two or three times per year. LED (Light Emitting Diode) track lighting with a rating of 3000K to 3500K can provide bright enough lighting if you invest in a high-output LED xture. The initial cost of LED lighting is higher than halogen, but the lamps can last ve years or longer and do not cause heat build-up as halogens do. Linear LED’s above each shelf are good for showcase lighting. Less expensive LED lighting produces an unattractive blue-tinged light. Get professional advice if you decide to switch to LED and be prepared to spend more for the right product. It will more than pay for itself over the long term because it will be ve years or more before you replace the lamps. If your lighting needs improvement, adding halogen or LED track lighting can make a big difference.

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BASIC PRINCIPLES OF EYEWEAR DISPLAY You don’t have to be an artist to create effective displays. The art of display lies in creating visual impact through elegant simplicity. Try putting just a few of these eyewear display principles into action and you’ll gain more sales with less effort. Eye Level Is Buy Level - This is the universal granddaddy retail display principle of them all. It applies to all types of merchandise the world over from Middle Eastern bazaars to Manhattan boutiques. Merchandise displayed at eye level gets noticed more and sells more. There are six vertical height zones for displays, but only four of them work for eyewear. Zones 1 and 6 are not effective for eyewear. Zones 2 and 5 can work with the right kind of frame holders. Zones 3, 4 and 5 are the “sweet spot” for display. (See Eyewear Display Zones illustration.) 1. Stretch Level: above 6 ft. This is the least valuable display zone. Products placed above this height get little attention from shoppers. Signs and graphics work well above this height because they can draw shoppers from a distance to look at product displayed below. 2. Above Eye Level: 5 - 6 ft. Frames can be displayed successfully on shelves within this level if you use tiered displays that present the frames parallel to the wall or at a slight downward angle allowing the frame to face the shopper who is looking up at it. 3. Eye Level: approximately 4 - 5 ft. Products placed at eye level sell best, so this is where to place your highest margin, most popular styles. One study found that eye level merchandise received 35% more attention than products on lower shelves. 4. Touch Level: 3 - 4 ft. This level is approximately at a shopper’s waist height, below eye level but within easy reach. This zone is second in terms of shopper attention-still a good place for high margin merchandise. 5. Below Touch Level: 2 - 3 ft. Frames can be displayed as low as 2 feet above the floor if they are on a countertop or shelf facing up.

6. Stoop Level - less than 2 ft. Most shoppers don’t like to bend down, so this zone is the retail equivalent of the boondocks, relegated to low-margin products. Keep all your merchandise above the 2-foot level. Many offices use the space below two feet for cabinets to store back fill inventory. Organize Categories Vertically - The majority of our eye muscles are meant for horizontal movement. Customers first scan any store horizontally for visual clues about where products of interest might be found. Then they walk closer to the wall or showcase that caught their attention and scan vertically for individual products. This means that merchandise categories (Men’s, Women’s, Children’s, Sunglasses, etc.) are best organized in vertical sections, not horizontal ones.

DISPLAY PRINCIPLES FOR WALLS Back Wall Principle - In a storefront location people driving or walking by can only see what is on the back wall that is parallel to the front windows. They cannot see any merchandise that is on the sidewalls (perpendicular to the sidewalk), but they CAN see what is on the back wall of your retail area (parallel to the sidewalk) even if it is 40 or 50 feet away from

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your front window. Therefore, the back wall should have merchandise or a graphic image that catches their attention immediately and shows them what you have for sale. Eye care practices often miss the boat by locating the reception counter on the back wall with all the frames on the sidewalls where no one can see them unless they step in to the space. That makes it look like an ofce where you have to have an appointment, not an intriguing place to shop for eyewear. Make sure that they can see what you are selling on the back wall, not a reception counter or patient les. Wall Placement For Frame Boards and Shelves Frame boards usually show frames just one-way: facing out perpendicular to the oor. Shoppers can’t easily see the frames at the very top or very bottom of a frame board. Mount your frame boards so the lowest frame is at least 27” above the oor and the highest frame no more than 69” above the oor. Shelves give you more exibility.You can nd many different frame pedestals and holders available to present frames at different angles, so you can use more of the vertical wall space. Shelves (or countertops) can be installed as low as 24” above the oor and as high as 68” above the oor. You’ll have effective displays as long as you choose the right kind of frame pedestal or holder for the different height zones. Allow 12” to 15” of vertical space between shelves. For maximum exibility install adjustable height glass shelves so they can move up or down to accommodate different display props.

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DISPLAY PRINCIPLES FOR SHOWCASES AND SHELVES Less Is More - Keep your displays simple. Keep them uncluttered.The most common mistake is showing too many items at the same time. Props should be simple in shape, preferably something that provides a large mass of color or texture, such as blocks, covered boxes or risers. Stay away from things with busy details, such as printed scarves. Pyramid Principle - Place one frame at the highest point of the display and let all the other elements step down from that point like a pyramid.This is a very effective type of display that you’ll see used in department stores all the time. Odd Rather Than Even- An odd number of elements is always more attractive to the eye than an even number.That’s because an asymmetrical arrangement is slightly off balance and keeps the eye moving around to look at each frame, providing a built-in visual dynamic. A symmetrical, perfectly balanced arrangement stops the eye in its tracks. That’s dull. Repetition - Using identical elements and repeating them over and over again creates a very powerful display. This simple idea can have a lot of punch. For example, line up a series of frames that are all the same style but different colors. Position all exactly the same way or the display loses impact. An additional benet to this type of display is that it reinforces the idea that you have a wide selection of frames. Contrast - Choose display background materials that contrast with the frames you are showing. Never put metal frames on a mirror or other glossy surface. The frames will get lost in all the reflections. Metal frames need a richly textured surface like velvet or suede to bring out their jewelry-like qualities. Breathing Room - Get comfortable with leaving some empty space in your luxury brand displays. Expensive frames must never be crowded together—it reduces their perceived value. Leave open space around high end frames to communicate luxury and quality. Do crowd low-end frames together because that communicates their lower price. Think about a ea market. All the merchandise is jammed together, lling every available space. You expect to nd some terric bargains—your optical customers will expect the same when they see frames crowded together. Lift and Present - Always use frame pedestals, holders and other display props to lift frames above the horizontal surface of the shelf or counter and present them at the most attractive angle to the shopper. Don’t let folded frames just lie on shelves-they look dead, uninteresting and worst of all, cheap.

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and the frames don’t “pop.” White backgrounds contrast well with nearly all types of frames except white zyl or rimless. A white background bounces the light around so you can see the smallest details and true colors of the frame design. There is one exception: Rimless frames show better on a black background. The easiest way to provide that background is with a black display prop. (See black house display) Mirrors are always a poor choice for display backgrounds. Mirrors absorb the light and make the frame displays appear twice as cluttered and confusing. Let your mirrors be for patients to see themselves and nothing else.

ELEMENTS OF EYEWEAR PRESENTATION Rigid displays have frame holders that are equally spaced out on a panel or attached to an acrylic rod and cannot be moved. Frame boards and frame bars are the most common type of rigid frame display. Advantages: Frames stay neatly in place. It’s easy for patients to put frames back in place after try-on and easy for opticians to quickly ll empty spots as frames are sold. They are low maintenance, minimal dust collectors and work best for low to moderate priced frames. Disadvantages: Difcult to highlight brands or call attention to special styles.They make high end frames look low end. Does not differentiate brand, quality or price. Flexible displays like shelves, tables and showcases provide space to “romance the frames” with. Use Point Of Purchase (POP) display props from vendors to show smaller groups of frames by brand or style. Advantages: Frames have higher perceived value and enhanced sales appeal because their individual style and brand gets noticed. Inventory levels can shrink and expand without telltale “empty spots.” Works best for moderate to high priced frames. Disadvantages: Takes more time to set up and maintain displays. Requires a variety of frame pedestals and holders. Patients may not replace frames properly after try-on. Requires regular dusting and cleaning. Backgrounds -The best background colors for eyewear display are white or a very light ivory (off-white). Dark colors and dark stained wood are poor choices as a background for most frames because they do not provide enough contrast

COMMUNICATING PRICE LEVELS Use one-glance, merchandising techniques, to give clear visual cues to price levels. One glance into your optical dispensary should tell the patient where they could nd a frame in their desired price range or quality level. Price level is communicated visually by how you display the frames. Crowd your lowest price frames together on a rotator, on frame boards, or in plastic trays kept in cabinets below displays. Show low to moderate priced frames on frame boards or frame bars attached to the wall. Intersperse some shelves among moderate frames to feature the most sought-after brands. Most Opticals benet from a mix of both rigid and exible displays.With only rigid displays an optical looks boring and low-end. It has no way to highlight name brands or easily shrink and expand total inventory. When an Optical has only exible displays it conveys an atmosphere of high quality merchandise and pricing to match. With both types of display it’s easier to communicate a wide range of prices and demonstrate the ability to serve a wide range of customers. Create a distinctly different display area for your highest priced frames. Present them in locked showcases or on open shelves if theft is not a worry. Identify the designer brands and show all the pieces in the collection together. ELEMENTARY DEAR WATSON An effective optical retail environment sends a clear accurate message to customers and patients about the quality, value and prices they can expect. Whether you are looking to improve your existing optical or opening a brand new one the key to effortless merchandising is to plan the right mix of display xtures, props and lighting before you start. In Part 1 you learned the principals and elements of eyewear display. Part 2 will uncover the proper use of POP (Point Of Purchase) materials and show you how to put it all together to create powerful visual merchandising in your ofce.

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Contact Lens News

1. SAFILENS launches Fusion Technology in Europe The ongoing process of internationalization continues at Salens. In January at opti, the contact lens company launched its innovative Fusion Technology for the European market.Truly cutting edge, the patented technology grew out of in-depth research into the eye’s anatomy and mechanics with the aim to improve the wellbeing of contact lens wearers. Insufcient quantity and alteration of the tear lm are the primary causes of diseases and discomfort during use of contact lenses. This situation is often the result of a reduction in the number of goblet cells, which then contributes to limited production of mucin.Thanks to their mucomimetic properties, natural substitutes for tear lm help maintain and re-establish the pseudo-mucinic component of the tear lm, relieving the most common symptoms of Dry Eye. The extraordinary Fusion Technology is the result of these research efforts and consists in the incorporation of a copolymer made from tamarind-seed polysaccharides (TSP) and hyaluronic acid (HA): the two natural polymers most used in the treatment of the Dry Eye syndrome. As shown by physical-chemical tests, this synergy is able to boost the well-known properties of TSP and HA in their task of hydrating, lubricating and protecting the surface of the eye from mechanical stress caused by contact lenses and thus facilitate the re-growth of epithelial microvilli. The Fusion Technology line, which includes daily and weekly disposable contact lenses as well as an all-in-one solution, restores the physiological relationship between tear lm and ocular surface, thus enhancing contact lens wearers’ quality of life. www.salens.com

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Innovations

2. BNL SOL-utions BNL EUROLENS has presented a new Polarized Gradient, SOL-utions Rx lens. CR39 Polarized semi-nished lenses, called SOL-utions Rx, enable sunglass designers to cross the bridge from Plano to Prescription.The lenses create the opportunity to give Rx customers the same lter available in Sunglasses. 100% Polarized, CR39 SOL-utions Rx are available in a variety of classic colours, Melanin and even in a fashionable Gradient prescription. With SOL-utions Rx, says the company, BNL delivers full colour freedom in Polar-Rx. BRIOT/LUNEAU Technology www.briot.com

3. ADLENS Adlens®, the global leader in variable focus eyewear, is proud to announce that the company has reached the semi-nals of the prestigious Edison Awards with its John Lennon™ Collection. The Edison Awards, named after American inventor and businessman Thomas Alva Edison, is a prestigious program lead by the non-prot organization Edison Universe, that globally recognizes and honours some of the most innovative new products, services and business leaders in order to create a positive impact in the world. Unique to the world of award programs, the Edison Awards™ are focused on the innovators as much as the innovations and symbolize the excellence personied by Thomas Edison, while also strengthening the human drive for innovation and creativity.This competition is based on four important criteria: Concept,Value, Delivery and Impact. According to the Edison Awards Committee,The John Lennon™ Collection, based on Fluid-Injection lens technology, perfectly satises all four criteria: originally designed for use in the developing worlds, the concept of Fluid-Injection lenses has undergone a major design upgrade in order to become conveniently marketable at a global level.As a result,The John Lennon™ Collection has become a fashion brand in this new category of vision correction, making a virtue of the round shape of the lens technology. Variable focus eyewear reduces time and costs associated with traditional lens laboratories, a particular advantage for developing countries. Through its Buy One Give One program, for every pair of Fluid-Injection glasses purchased the company donates a pair to someone in the developing world. Fluid-Injection technology could change the way healthcare is traditionally delivered, allowing universal access to instantly improved vision in all developing countries. Over the next weeks, a panel of judges will vote on which nominations should receive Gold, Silver and Bronze Awards.Winners will be announced during the 2013 Edison Awards event which takes place on 24/25th April in Chicago.

4. CARL ZEISS VISION SUNLENS /ZEISS SONAR Carl Zeiss Vision Sunlens, the Division of Carl Zeiss Group, dedicated to the development and production of sun lenses, presents a new performing goggle for winter sports: ZEISS Sonar. Developed through wearing trials and laboratory test, this lens has been studied to improve vision on the snow, enhancing colour brightness and contours on the slopes, in all light conditions, even at high speed. Zeiss Sonar presents a specic spectral curve that still allows some blue light to reach the eye, enabling the wearer to read irregularities like bumps and hollows. Zeiss Sonar is one of the latest innovations in the snow goggle range, developed by Carl Zeiss Vision Sunlens.

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Italiano WHAT ’ S ON I N E UROPE

Eyewear news and launches coming for Spring/Summer…

E&E glasses launch sunglass collaboration Jewels for the eyes Eyewear design label E&E glasses have launched a new collaboration with Swedish girl band, Sahara Hotnights which celebrates the music scene in Sweden. The sunglasses are inspired by strong women like Sophia Loren and Marilyn Monroe. The direction translates the mood of American west coast meeting the Swedish Midnight Sun. The collection will be released in March 2013.

Pinoptik, the Italian eyewear company, presents its new line of decorative frames for women, ‘Emozione’. The line features carefully crafted metal styles decorated with Swarovski crystals for shine and elegance. ‘Emozione’, says the company, proposes excellence in terms of design, crafting techniques and comfort. www.pinoptik.it

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COSA SUCCEDE IN EUROPA Novità sugli occhiali e nuovi lanci per la primavera/estate… E&E glasses lancia una collaborazione per gli occhiali da sole Il marchio E&E glasses ha lanciato una nuova collaborazione con la band femminile svedese Sahara Hotnights che domina il panorama musicale in Svezia. Gli occhiali da sole sono ispirati a donne forti come Sofia Loren e Marilyn Monroe. La linea interpreta il mood della west coast americana che incontra il sole di mezzanotte svedese. La collezione verrà presentata nel marzo 2013. Gioielli per gli occhi La società italiana produttrice di occhiali Pinoptik presenta la sua nuova linea da donna di montature decorative, “Emozione”. La linea presenta modelli in metallo sapientemente fatti a mano, impreziositi da cristalli Swarovski per lucentezza ed eleganza. “Emozione”, dice la società, propone l’eccellenza in termini di design, tecniche di lavorazione e comfort. www.pinoptik.it Inface e l’eredità del design scandinavo Il team di progetto Inface si è dedicato alle varietà di materiale, 110 2 0 / 2 0 E u r o p e

forma e colore per il 2013. Dodici nuove serie di montature oltre alla collezione di occhiali da sole per la nuova stagione sono state presentate in gennaio a OPTI. La collezione rispecchia i pensieri più profondi e un incontro ravvicinato con la forte necessità di prendersi sempre più cura del pianeta e del prossimo. Il design è naturale e semplice, con colori, materiali e forme attentamente selezionati. Caratteristico della collezione è il modello IF 1161-62, un modello da uomo, in titanio in combinazioni di colori fashion tra il frontale in titanio e le aste in acetato esclusivo. I frontali sono resistenti e caratteristici come le montature in acetato. Inoltre, il titanio garantisce leggerezza e comfort. Il nuovo arrivato Adrian Marwitz si presenta a OPTI Il nuovo marchio Adrian Marwitz ha presentato la sua prima collezione a OPTI nel gennaio 2013. La società ha presentato una collezione, unica e senza tempo, di montature prodotte in Germania con i più elevati standard qualitativi. Secondo il fondatore Adrian Marwitz, la collezione simboleggia un’inconfondibile passione e la convinzione che gli occhiali siano oggetti di design alla moda. Con questa filosofia in mente, la collezione è stata creata in titanio e prodotta in Germania con la massima precisione. Con la consapevole decisione di produrre gli occhiali in Germania, Adrian Marwitz torna alle radici di una dinastia di occhiali iniziata dal nonno nel 1919. Ogni modello presenta una fascia luminosa sulle cerniere che evidenzia l’autentica “unicità” della montatura. Gli occhiali di questa collezione sono disponibili in quattro diversi colori, ciascuno dei quali rappresenta uno dei principi del design: libertà, amore e una forte determinazione a realizzare i sogni. Questa

collezione, la “Hip and Crazy Wildlife”, rispecchia le tendenze della giungla urbana e si sforza di creare nuovi impulsi dinamici di design. Blackfin per un nuovo corso A Opti 2013, Blackfin by Pramaor Italian Titanium eyewear ha presentato una collezione di occhiali da sole ad alto impatto, in cui i tratti distintivi del marchio, come i tratti essenziali e definiti delle montature e il ridotto spessore del titanio sono uniti ad una ricerca creativa che anticipa il nuovo corso del marchio. Il denominatore comune dell’intera collezione è l’utilizzo del titanio e del betatitanio, lavorato in Italia con le tecniche più avanzate ed innovative per garantire un prodotto dal design naturale e dall‘eleganza pura con eccellenti caratteristiche meccaniche. La leggerezza del materiale, le cerniere brevettate e gli innovativi terminali Swordfish – che permettono di cambiare la lunghezza originaria dell‘asta in tre semplici mosse, grazie al sistema di “rottura pre-programmata”- forniscono un paio di occhiali da sole con una forte personalità e una linea perfetta. Per il 2013 Blackfin presenta lenti a specchio o oscurate, come nel modello BF679 Palm Bay che reinterpreta la classica forma „cateye“ con contorni scolpiti: un effetto moderno per una montatura in titanio ultra femminile. Lo stesso procedimento è utilizzato per il modello maschile BF678 Pacific in cui le caratteristiche del frontale sono attenuate e il design è messo in evidenza da colorazioni blu, marroni o nere abbinate alle nuove lenti. Bellezza pura, forma aerodinamica Per il 2013 la svedese Polaris lancia una collezione incentrata sul design puro, pulito. La società dichiara „Gli occhiali sono prodotti con l’intenzione di adattarsi ai visi nella maniera più personale.

Non produciamo occhiali unici, particolari. Produciamo occhiali per persone uniche, particolari“. La nuova gamma – la nona generazione di montature SPD – vede l‘aumento del numero di opzioni di colori, con un’offerta non solo di trasparenti ma anche di colori a tinta unita, così come di decorazioni o brillantini. „Questa collezione è ricca di sorprese e contrasti“ spiega un portavoce della società, „esattamente come il clima del Circolo Polare Artico è ricco di contrasti e di magia“. Silhouette presenta Titan Minimal Art - The Icon Silhouette ha lanciato la sua nuova serie Titan Minimal Art . The Icon, concepita per rappresentare il meglio che il marchio austriaco abbia da offrire. Il designer Gerhard Fuchs ha preso i valori fondamentali di tutta la produzione di Silhouette e ne ha valorizzato il design con qualità che riflettono un atteggiamento energico verso la vita e la vivacità dei giovani abitanti delle città. Il risultato, dice la società, è un occhiale leggero e versatile, di accurata durabilità con un design pulito accattivante. Un nuovo mondo per i bimbi A OPTI, ic! berlin ha presentato una nuova collezione per bimbi, formata da modelli per ragazzi e ragazze, con nuovi divertenti dettagli, colori e buona durata apprezzabili da tutti i giovani portatori. Lanciata per la prima volta a Monaco, la collezione per giovanissimi comprende occhiali da vista e sole come i grandi occhiali retrò da aviatore, riprodotti in scala partendo dai modelli da adulto tipici del marchio tedesco La fiera di Monaco grande successo nel 2013 Gli organizzatori di OPTI riferiscono che a Monaco, quest’anno, sono arrivati oltre 23.200 professionisti del settore provenienti da oltre 70 paesi, per scopriM A R C H 2 01 3


re i nuovi prodotti e le ultime tendenze, per assistere ai numerosi lanci e alle presentazioni. Il numero degli espositori è cresciuto ancora rispetto all’anno precedente, come la gamma di paesi di provenienza. “OPTI sta diventando sempre più importante a livello internazionale,” ha dichiarato Dieter Dohr, CEO e presidente di GHM (Gesellschaft für Handwerksmessen mbH). “Sempre più aziende vedono l’evento di Monaco come un’opportunità per ampliare la loro base di clientela internazionale. Ovviamente anche gli ottici hanno beneficiato di questo, perché maggiore è la selezione di prodotti offerta, maggiore è la scelta per mettere insieme la propria gamma”. I professionisti del settore provenienti da oltre 70 paesi sono stati colpiti dalle ampie gamme che i 491 espositori hanno presentato nei quattro padiglioni affollati. IN DETAIL

MAYBACH Eyewear:

Icons of Luxury High-end automobile brand, MAYBACH has for decades symbolised the most exacting demands on quality and luxury. The label’s eyewear collection, licensed to the German luxury eyewear specialists IVKO, embodies this spirit by proposing highly selective materials combined with the best

How long have you been producing MAYBACH Eyewear and what does the collection include today? The licence between MAYBACH and IVKO GmbH started in January 2010 and the first collection launched soon after at SILMO in the same year. The collection today is designed for men and women and we include a number of unisex styles. Each MAYBACH frame is made by hand in our workshop in Germany. The frames are painstakingly created and inspected using traditional frame-making techniques, based on the decades of experience IVKO has built over time, resulting in a perfect product.

of German handcrafting and design. 20/20 EUROPE asked Jutta Kahlbetzer, CEO, IVKO GmbH to talk about the collection and how it is being received at a global level.

Explain the types of materials found in the collection. The collection features a very sleek, refined clean design. We use the most select luxury materials including natural horn, fine woods, carbon fibre, leather and titanium. We also feature 18 carat solid white, yellow and rose gold, and in some frames,

16 20/20 Europe

Jutta Kahlbetzer and Wolfgang Thelen

natural diamonds. We also feature piano varnish. The collection has been created, not to follow fashion trends but to allow any one at any time to look good in it. It has very strong international appeal. What kind of lenses are featured? All the sunglasses in the collection use special Carl Zeiss lens-

es, which not only offer 100% UV protection but also reflect the latest technology with state-of-theart lens coatings, as well as polarization which improves vision in strong light conditions. Please refer to the most outstanding details of the frames. One of the most elegant highlights is introduced in the form M A R C H 2 01 3

IN DETTAGLIO MAYBACH Eyewear Icone del lusso Marchio automobilistico di fascia alta, MAYBACH ha rappresentato per decenni le più esigenti richieste di qualità e lusso. La collezione di occhiali del marchio, prodotta su licenza specialisti tedeschi di occhiali di lusso IVKO, incarna M A R C H 2 01 3

questo spirito proponendo materiali altamente selezionati abbinati al meglio dell’artigianato e del design tedesco. 20/20 EUROPE ha chiesto a Jutta Kahlbetzer, CEO di IVKO GmbH, di parlare della collezione e di come è stata accolta a livello mondiale. Da quanto tempo producete gli occhiali MAYBACH e cosa comprende la collezione oggi? L’accordo di licenza tra MAYBACH e IVKO GmbH è iniziato nel gennaio 2010 e la prima collezione è stata lanciata subito dopo il SILMO dello stesso anno. La collezione oggi è progettata per uomini e donne e comprende un certo numero di modelli unisex. Ogni montatura MAYBACH è fatta a mano nel nostro laboratorio in Germania. Le montature sono prodotte e ispezionate minuziosamente utilizzando le tradizionali tecniche di produzione delle montature, basate sull’esperienza decennale che IVKO ha acquisito nel corso del tempo, e il risultato è un prodotto perfetto. Quali sono i tipi di materiali usati per la collezione? La collezione presenta un design molto elegante, dalla linea raffinata. Utilizziamo i materiali di lusso più esclusivi, tra i quali il corno naturale, legni pregiati, fibra di carbonio, pelle e titanio. Usiamo anche oro massiccio bianco, giallo e rosa 18 carati e, in alcune montature, diamanti naturali. Usiamo anche la vernice da legno. La collezione non è stata creata per seguire le tendenze della moda, ma per permettere a ciascuno di sentirsi bene in ogni momento. Ha un appeal internazionale molto forte. Quali tipi di lenti usate? Tutti gli occhiali da sole della collezione montano speciali lenti Carl Zeiss, che non solo offrono il 100% di protezione dai raggi UV, ma rispecchiano anche la tecnolo-

gia più avanzata con rivestimenti modernissimi, così come la polarizzazione che migliora la capacità visiva in condizioni di luce forte. Per favore, potrebbe accennarci i dettagli più importanti delle montature? Una delle caratteristiche più eleganti è introdotta nella forma di contorni in argento o oro nelle aste. Il sottile bordo di uno strato di metallo incastonato in legno esclusivo forma raffinate linee colorate in argento o in oro. Questo accattivante contorno è ulteriormente sottolineato dall’unione con materiali di alta classe come la fibra di carbonio o il legno bianco laccato. Esempi di queste aste si possono vedere nel modello della nostra montatura The Monarch I G-WP-Z02. Quali sono al momento i mercati chiave della collezione? Vendiamo in 38 paesi nel mondo. Abbiamo un enorme successo, poiché questa è una collezione di alto livello, in mercati come il Medio Oriente, Cina, Russia, Stati Uniti, così come in diverse nazioni europee tra cui la Germania, la Francia, il Regno Unito, la Svizzera, l’Italia, ecc. Le montature vendute in Europa costano tra i 1.400 e i 2.500 euro; abbiamo anche alcuni modelli esclusivi che superano i 38.000 euro e includono oro massiccio 18K con intarsi di diamanti. Su richiesta, aste in singoli colori e soprattutto in corno possono essere abbinati all’oro per un risultato estremamente singolare e bello. MAYBACH produce anche altre linee, potrebbe fornirci i dettagli? Il marchio è esteso ad altri accessori, tra i quali la pelletteria e la selleria, il cui lancio è avvento in gennaio durante un evento speciale a Monaco. Borse, tracolle, borse da ufficio e portafogli sono solo alcuni degli articoli di MAYBACH oggi disponibili. La Leather Goods Collection, una collezione di pelletteria, si presenta in quattro varianti di colore, che

comprendono l’eleganza classica del nero e l’elegante naturalezza del marrone scuro, come anche il bianco puro e l’arancione espressivo. Le icone del lusso MAYBACH sono presenti nei negozi di molti ottici convenzionati e gli esclusivi negozi Maybach che apriranno nel prossimo futuro aumenteranno ulteriormente il riconoscimento del marchio a livello mondiale. www.maybach-luxury.com DESIGNER PROFILE

OGI EYEWEAR: a brand on the rise OGI Eyewear launches Evo-Tec, a new sophisticated eyewear collection for the modern man. 20/20 EUROPE found out more about the developments at the label and spoke to Joseph Tallier on the launch of the new Evo-Tec collection at OPTI.

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PROFILO DEL MARCHIO OGI EYEWEAR: un marchio in crescita OGI Eyewear lancia Evo-Tec, una nuova collezione raffinata pensata per l‘uomo moderno. 20/20 EUROPE ha cercato di saperne di più sullo sviluppo dell‘azienda americana e ha intervistato Jospeph Tallier sul lancio della nuova collezione Evo-Tec a OPTI. Il marchio americano OGI illustra la propria identità centrale, la cosiddetta core identity, come la ridefinizione di lusso accessibile. Lanciato nel 1997, il marchio è cresciuto rapidamente da piccola startup del Midwest americano a marchio di lusso a livello mondiale, guidato dal designer e imprenditore David Spencer. Oggi, la società è orgogliosa di offrire due marchi diversi, OGI e Seraphin, entrambi in rapido i n t e r n a t i o n a l e y e f a s h i o n 111


sviluppo. “Uno degli aspetti da cui siamo ossessionati è la qualità. Quindi è tutta questione di capacità, qualità e valore. Le nostre montature devono essere estremamente eleganti, perché sappiamo quanto bene si vendano” spiega Tallier. Secondo Tallier, negli ultimi cinque anni il marchio OGI ha subìto veri raffinamenti di stile. „E ora siamo orgogliosi di avere un nuovo punto di partenza per il marchio, con il lancio di Evo-Tec. Abbiamo la sensazione che il segmento maschile sia spesso trascurato dal mercato. Quindi, nel 2013 ci concentreremo sull‘eyewear maschile cominciando proprio con la nuova collezione Evo – Tec. Grazie all‘eccezionale design, a un nuovo materiale leggero, a dettagli come i naselli regolabili e la resistenza unita ad una leggerezza unica, i modelli della collezione Evo – Tec offrono una portabilità su misura, adatta ad un ampia varietà di clienti. Siamo sicuri che l‘uomo moderno accoglierà con entusiasmo la collezione Evo-Tec, e che questa diventerà un punto di riferimento per lo stile maschile, settore fino ad ora trascurato.“ “Questo materiale innovativo offre a chi indossa i modelli EvoTec un’esperienza davvero unica e futuristica.“ La nuova collezione di terza generazione è formata da cinque modelli, ognuno disponibile in 4 differenti combinazioni di colore. Destinati ad adolescenti o adulti di tendenza, le montature sono in monel, titanio, acetato italiano con cerniere elastiche OBE. Presentata in astucci rigidi neri a forma di conchiglia rivestiti in velluto stropicciato sgargiante, la linea è adattissima per offrire la vera raffinatezza moderna. “OGI in Europa ha generalmente avuto un feedback straordinario e dobbiamo portare il messaggio ancora più lontano. Stiamo crescendo, e abbiamo importanti sviluppi futuri nell‘area; progettiamo di impegnarci ulteriormente aprendo dei nostri uffici in Europa entro il 2014. 11 2 2 0 / 2 0 E u r o p e

La nuova linea Evo-Tec ha già suscitato una formidabile accoglienza negli Stati Uniti, e siamo molto elettrizzati da questo lancio in Europa, con ulteriore celebrazione al prossimo MIDO.” La bellezza della linea Evo-Tec di OGI consiste nella semplicità e allo stesso tempo nel livello di innovazione che abbiamo raggiunto. „Il materiale era disponibile, ma nessun altro è stato capace di colorarlo così. Realizzando il prodotto in Giappone, siamo stati in grado di creare una cerniera molto raffinata e abbiamo fatto eccellenti progressi nel produrre questi colori. Questo è veramente rivoluzionario,” spiega Tallier. “La nostra ossessione è fare le cose sempre meglio“, riassume Tallier alla fine della nostra intervista. „E’ questo il motivo del nostro successo, e credo che ci sia un potenziale ancora poco sfruttato in quest‘area, come dimostra il nostro grande successo in Nord America.” www.ogieyewear.com TRENDS FEATURE

Affordable Wonders Looking for fashion-forward designs that are easy on the wallet? 20/20 EUROPE went in search of some must-see collections with an up-to-the-minute take on fashion.

F

ashion detailing has come into its own across the board for the season

Eco elegance

ahead. From deco style details to trendy materials with special coloura-

Modo has introduced a unique addition to its eco brand ECO BORN BIOBASED

tions, the mid-priced collections are offering a variety of ideas for trend-

collection. This new line consists of six styles made from plant-based materials.

oriented consumers.

The collection has been certified by the USDA as being made of 63% biobased

Realising that there is a growing need to produce individual designs with

materials. The new collection continues to support the three main initiatives of

plenty of energy and design content, each of these collections has a differ-

eco 2.0, which are “Look good, feel good, do good.” Eco Born Biobased is styl-

ent direction in terms of trends and style so there is something to please

ish and the styles are lightweight and brightly coloured. Packaging is made from

even the most fashion-conscious customer.

recycled materials, in keeping with the overall philosophy of the brand.

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TENDENZE Meraviglie a prezzi accessibili State cercando modelli di tendenza a prezzi accessibili? 20/20 EUROPE è andata alla ricerca di alcune delle collezioni „must“ diffuse di recente nel mondo della moda. La particolarità della moda ha ottenuto riconoscimento su tutta la linea per la prossima stagione. Dai dettagli stile art déco ai materiali di tendenza con colorazioni speciali, le collezioni di prezzo medio offrono una

varietà di idee per i consumatori che seguono le tendenze. Consapevoli della crescente necessità di produrre modelli individuali pieni di energia ed idee, ognuna di queste collezioni ha diverse direzioni in termini di tendenze e stile così che ci possa essere qualcosa che piace anche al cliente più attento all’ultima moda. Eco eleganza Modo ha introdotto un’aggiunta unica alla collezione del suo marchio ecologico ECO BORN BIOBASED. Questa nuova linea è composta da sei modelli creati con materiali di origine vegetale. La collezione è realizzata con il 63% di materiali provenienti da fonti rinnovabili e ha ricevuto la certificazione da parte dello USDA (United States Department of Agriculture). La nuova collezione continua a sostenere le tre iniziative principali di eco 2.0, che sono „Look good, feel good, do good“. Eco Born Biobased è elegante e i modelli sono leggeri e presentano colori classici e sfumature vivaci. Gli astucci sono realizzati in materiali riciclati, in linea con la filosofia del marchio. Tendenza al tartarugato Firecrest di Actman+Mico ha una forma rettangolare di classe che mostra l’attuale tendenza ad usare due tonalità di acetato, con il frontale come il classico motivo tartarugato e cristallo tono su tono. Actman+Mico è una linea dell‘azienda inglese Optoplast Actman Eyewear Company. Disegnata da Andrew Actman e Janice Mico, la gamma punta ad essere fantastica e speciale, ideata per chi desidera essere notato per la montatura, e combina un’innovativa fusione di materiali di qualità, colori e finiture. Vivaci anni ’60 Gli anni ’60 sono di nuovo in voga, con le forme sinuose e vivaci colori pop sempre più ricercati. Il modello AR21257593 è un esempio di uno dei modelli di occhiali da sole della collezione donna Agatha Ruiz de la Prada. Composto da due tonalità di acetato – qui raffigurata la versione Havana e viola, il modello ha un design retrò easy-to-wear e un orientamento Sixties style. Le collezioni sole e vista della stilista spagnola Agatha Ruiz de la Prada sono prodotti da Optim.

Le meraviglie delle donne La nuova collezione Vogue Eyewear, elegante e dinamica, propone tre linee per tre diversi tipi di donna. Dallo stile fashionable e ironico di In Vogue, linea pensata per donne sempre curiose delle ultime novità moda, al gusto contemporaneo e sofisticato di Casual Chic, linea rivolta a giovani donne che seguono una moda originale, moderna e versatile, alle linee classiche, raffinate ed essenziali di Timeless, linea pensata per donne che si identificano in uno stile elegante e femminile, ricco di dettagli raffinati e originali. Per la ragazza che vuole un “look casual”, il modello VO3827 S ha una montatura oversize, glamour, impreziosita con stampaggio ad iniezione e smalto colorato. Ritorno alle proprie radici Modo con la nuova collezione P/E 2013 torna alle proprie radici, aggiungendo modelli alle sue linee in acetato e titanio e presentando anche una nuova serie di montature in acetato levigato innovativo, linee in titanio ultra sottili e due pezzi vintage. I modelli di MODO sono conosciuti per la loro incredibile attenzione al dettaglio e alla qualità superiore. Ogni pezzo è realizzato a mano e rifinito in Giappone, come afferma la società. cK per una facile eleganza vintage La collezione cK Calvin Klein by Marchon comprende modelli classici reinventati per creare una linea di occhiali audace e giovanile ma anche sofisticata. Le forme vintage e classiche sono modernizzate e rese fashion per soddisfare le esigenze di un soggetto eccezionalmente alla moda. Preppy Denim Il gruppo Tommy Hilfiger ha presentato la nuova linea di occhiali da sole „Preppy Denim” per la collezione P/E 2013. La forma unisex si ispira allo spirito „classic American cool“ di Tommy Hilfiger, interpretato con un twist moderno e preppy. Il modello, dalla forma iconica e squadrata personalizzata sulle aste dall‘inconfondibile flag „Tommy Hilfiger“, è disponibile in una gamma di colorazioni tra cui il blue trasparente/bianco con denim blue e lenti marrone. La collezione ha un look preppy, giovane e senza tempo ed è prodotta dal Gruppo Safilo. M A R C H 2 01 3


EUROPEAN LENSES +

TECHNOLOGY

European Correspondence Office FGE srl – Fabiano Gruppo Editoriale, Reg. San Giovanni, 40 - 14053 Canelli (AT) - Italy Tel (+39) 0141 1768908 Fax (+39) 0141 1768900 email: 2020europe@fgeditore.it EUROPEAN LENSES +

Editorial direction by Boyd Norton Associates Editor: Clodagh Norton: Tel +44 (o) 1580 852 445 email: c.norton@fgeditore.it

TECHNOLOGY

Publishing director/Direttore responsabile Ferdinando Fabiano

A Jobson publication March 2013

Editorial correspondents: Paul Barfoot, Joan Grady, Kerstin Vosshans, Lorna Hall, Tamsin Kingswell Design & production by FGE srl - Fabiano Gruppo Editoriale Graphics Designer: Vittorio Eugenio Forte Operations Manager: Nicole Togni Production Manager: Pierpaola Eraldi Publisher/Redazione FGE srl – Fabiano Gruppo Editoriale, Reg. San Giovanni, 40 - 14053 Canelli (At) - Italy

International sales France, Italy, United Kingdom, Spain, Austria, Germany, Denmark, Benelux, Switzerland, Scandinavia, Liechtenstein, Czech Republic, Poland and East Europe Sales Director Matilde Sometti Tel (39) 045-8036334 Fax (39) 045-590740 matilde@studiozanasi.it Sales Director USA – Dennis Murphy Tel (1) 212 274 7101 Fax (1) 212 431 5579 DMurphy@jobson.com Sales Director Israel – Asa Talbar Tel (972) 3 562 9565 Fax (972) 3 562 9567 talbar@talbar.co.il Sales Director Asia (excl. Japan & Korea) – Mary Ng Tel (852) 2730 2282 Fax (852) 3121 0348 futuramktg@netvigator.com Sales Director Korea – Young-Seoh Chinn Tel (822) 481 3411/3 Fax (822) 481 3414 jesmedia@unitel.co.kr Sales Director Japan - Sho Harihara Tel (81) 6 4790 2222 Fax (81) 6 4793 0800 sho@yukarimedia.com

FGE Srl - Regione San Giovanni, 40 - 14053 Canelli (AT) - nr. 2/2013 - Anno XXIV - bimestrale

For subscription/circulation enquiries contact the Circulation Department Tel (+39) 0141 1768903 Fax (+39) 0141 1768900 email: 2020europe@fgeditore.it

MIDO SPECIAL EDITION Men’s trends 2013 > 20 Affordable fashion Fantastic frames for everyday > 74 M A R C H 2 01 3

international eye fashion 1

FGE srl - Fabiano Gruppo Editoriale is publishing 20/20 Europe under license from Jobson Medical Information LLC, owner of the trademark 20/20. FGE srl - Fabiano Gruppo Editoriale is solely liable for the content of 20/20 Europe.

Subcriptions: Annual Subscriptions €100 for customers based in Europe and €250 for all other countries. Payments in British Pounds Sterling and U.S. Dollars are accepted at the exchange rate published in the London Financial Times on the first business day of the month in which the payment is received. Address your subscription enquiry to the European Correspondence Office. Payment must accompany your order. If you have any questions regarding a current subscription, please contact the European Correspondence Office. Print and reproduction: FGE srl - Fabiano Gruppo Editoriale - Canelli (AT), Italy No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, without the prior permission of the Publisher. Aucune partie de cette publication ne peut être reproduite, enregistrée par un dipositif de restitution de l'information, ou transmise sous une forme quelconque sans l’autorisation préalable de l'editeur. Die Vervielfältigung, Speicherung in einem Informationswidergewinnungssystem oder die Vermittlung jeglicher Teile dieser Veröffentlichung in welcher Form auch immer ist ohne die Genehmigung des Herausgebers untersagt. È vietata la riproduzione, memorizzazione in un sistema che ne permetta il recupero o qualsiasi forma di trasmissione parziale o totale di questa pubblicazione senza la precedente autorizzazione dell’editore. Queda prohibida la reproducción total o parcial de la presente publicación, así como su almacenamiento en un sistema de consulta de datos y su transmisión en cualquier forma que sea, sin previa autorizacíon del editor.

M A R C H 2 01 3

i n t e r n a t i o n a l e y e f a s h i o n 11 3


Advertisers The March 2013 issue is now closed. If you wish to make any amendments for the May/June 2013 issue, please contact Pierpaola Eraldi at email: p.eraldi@fgeditore.it or fax (+39) 0141 1768900 by 6th May 2013. Any material received after this deadline will automatically be inserted into the next available issue of 20/20 EUROPE.

As a service to its readers, 20/20 EUROPE provides the complete telephone and fax numbers of European manufacturers, importers and distributors (as supplied by these companies). Each listing is in alphabetical order by country code. Whilst every care is taken to ensure that data in this Directory is accurate, the Publishers cannot accept and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors or omissions resulting from negligence accident or any other cause.

International Country Code and Telephone Codes Australia

AU

61

Finland

FIN

358

Latvia

LV

371

Serbia e Montenegro SCG

Austria

A

43

France

F

Belgium

B

32

Germany

Bulgaria

BU

359

Canada

33

Lithuania

LI

370

Singapore

SG

65

D

49

Luxembourg

L

352

Slovakia

SK

42

Greece

GR

30

Malta

M

35

Slovenia

SL

386

Spain+Canary Islands E

34

CA 1514

Hong Kong

HK

852

New Zealand

NZ

61 Sweden

S

46

Cyprus

CY

357

Hungary

H

36

Norway

N

47 Switzerland

CH

41

Croatia

HR

385

Iceland

IC

354

Poland

PL

48

The Netherlands

NL

31

Czech Republic

CZ

42

Ireland

IRL

353

Portugal

P

351

Turkey

TR

90

Denmark

DK

45

Italy

I

39

Romania

R

40

Ukraine

UA

38

Estonia

EST

372

JP

81

Russian Federation

RU

7

United Kingdom

UK

44

Japan

381

Advertiser listings Adlens

cover 4

Area98

cover 1, 85

Borsalino Eschenbach

89 cover 2

Kenmark Group Modo Ogi Eyewear

Safilens

5

Safilo

9, 73

103 3

Silmo

91

Opal

13

Vision Expo East

32

PPG

97

Zilli

Ic! berlin

14-15

Intercast

99

Polaris

Ivko

19

Pramaor

11 4 2 0 / 2 0 E u r o p e

11

7

1 77

M A R C H 2 01 3


Directory listings

Fax +39 0438 491025 KENMARK GROUP

info@brands-oi.it www.brands-oi.it

IC! BERLIN BRILLEN GMBH

ADLENS LTD

Germany

UNITED KINGDOM

Tel +49 30 41 71 77-76

ph: n. +44 1865 980 400

USA Tel +502.266.8966 Fax +502.267.4486

Fax +49 30 41 71 77-11 Distributorsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; list on request

fax: n. +44 1865 980 420 mail@ic-berlin.de contact@adlens.com www.adlens.com

ELCE www.ic-berlin.de France Tel. +33 3 84 42 43 01

AREA98 SRL

L.G.R. SRL

Fax +33 3 84 42 42 77

Italy

cabaud@elce.com

Tel +39 0432 646 411

www.elce.com

Italy Tel +39 0643413879 INTERCAST EUROPE S.p.A. Fax +39 0683605553

Fax +39 0432 646 451

Italy

area98@area98.it

Tel 39 0521 607555

www.area98.it ESCHENBACH OPTIK GMBH

Fax 39 0521 607916

infi@lgr-sunglasses.com www.lgr-sunglasses.com

info@nxt-vision.com Germany www.nxt-vision.com BNL EUROLENS

Ph: +49 911 3600-0

France

Fax: +49 911 3600-358

Ph +33 (0)4 50 48 02 80

mail@eschenbach-optik.de

INTERNATIONAL VISION EXPO USA

www.eschenbach-optik.de

www.visionexpoeast.com

Fax +33 (0)4 50 48 03 33

MODO EYEWEAR

sales@bnl-eurolens.com Italy

www.bnl-eurolens.com IVKO GMBK HILTON INTERNATIONAL EYEWEAR LTD

Germany

UK

Tel +49 2656 952620

Phone: +44 20 8451 7800

Fax +49 2656 9526299

Fax: +44 20 8451 6357

info@ivko.de

Sales@hilton-eyewear.com

www.ivko.de

www.hilton-eyewear.com

www.natural-eyewear.com

Tel +39 02 4399 8986 Fax +39 02 4398 3908 Europe@modo.com www.modo.com

BRANDS O.I. Italy Tel +39 0438 403399

J A N U A R Y 2 01 3

www.maybach-eyewear.com

i n t e r n a t i o n a l e y e f a s h i o n 11 5


info@ogiframes.com

POLARIS EYEWEAR

www.ogiframes.com

Sweden

Italy

Tel +46 92175560

Tel 390248712569 Fax +46 92173400 Germany Tel 49.8024.9917.40 Fax: 49.8024.9917.44

SAFILENS S.r.l. Italy

info@polariseyewear.se www.polariseyewear.com

Tel 39 0421 272616 Fax 39 0421 770614

Israel

safilens@safilens.com

Tel 97.23.960.1997

www.safilens.com

Fax: 97.23.960.1996 New Zealand Tel 64.9.532.9201

PPG Optical Materials

SAFILO

Fax: 64.9.532.9306

USA

Italy

Switzerland

Tel 1 724 325 5915

Tel 41227315519

Tel 39 049 6985111 Fax +39 049 6985360

www.cr39casters.com Fax 41227387204

www.safilo.com www.ppgtrivex.com

MONDOTTICA

The Netherlands

United Kingdom

Tel 0031 493 399964

European Office

Fax 0031 493 322458

Contact FrĂŠderic LeFranc

SILMO - Paris

Tel 33 1 4698 8138

France

Tel: 44 1159 677 912 Fax: 44 1159 677 179

Fax 33 1 4698 8263 sales@mondottica.com

OKO EYEWEAR GROUP

Tel +33 1 43 46 27 60 Fax +33 1 43 46 27 62

flefranc@ppg.com www.mondottica.com

FRANCE

silmo@silmo.fr

+33 1 45 15 27 27

www.silmoparis.com

NL Mondottica Nederlands BV +33 1 45 15 27 25 Tel: 0031 172 497 449 Fax: 0031 172 501 526

oko.eyewear@free.fr www.lescreateursdelunettes.fr

ZILLI Eyewear France

FR Mondottica France

Tel +33 4 72 19 21 04 Tel: 33 1 45 62 24 94 Fax +33 4 72 19 19 99 Fax: 33 1 45 63 31 25

eyewear@zilli.fr www.zilli.fr OPAL PRAMAOR France Italy Tel +33 47 26 98 450 Tel +39 0437 660 523

OGI EYEWEAR

Fax +33 47 26 98 451

USA

info@opal.fr

Tel 1 7635921493

www.opal.fr

Fax +39 0437 733 115 commerciale@pramaor.com www.pramaor.com

Fax 1 7635373933

11 6 2 0 / 2 0 E u r o p e

J A N U A R Y 2 01 3


20/20

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INSTANT PRESCRIPTION EYEWEAR

The John Lennon™ Collection is a brand of variable focus eyewear that closely models the eyes natural dynamic behaviour. Twist the intuitive dials to reach your prescription. Go to www.adlens.com to find out more.

-Negative power TURN DIAL TO ADJUST LENS POWER

0 Zero power

+ Positive power

Visit Adlens® at MIDO and VEE to see for yourself.

imagine modern technology meets legendary styling with a social conscience.

www.adlens.com

John Lennon™ graphic based on the original photo by Iain MacMillan 1971. Eagle Eyewear, Inc. Is the exclusive creator and master eyewear licensee of The John Lennon™ Eyewear Collection. © Yoko Ono Lennon. Licensed exclusively by Bag One Arts. Lennon™ and John Lennon™ are Trademarks of Yoko Ono Lennon. Reproducing copyrighted and trademarked materials/images is prohibited.

REMOVE THE DIALS AND ATTACH THE COLOUR MATCHED END CAPS

Aspheric lenses cover a wide range of spherical powers from -4.5 to +3.5D.


20/20 Europe March Issue