Fashion Mannuscript January 2023

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MARSHAL COHEN FASHION MANNUSCRIPT NEW YORK LOS ANGELES MIAMI THE HAMPTONS INSIDE Devan Gregori Body-Accepting Fashion PLUS Luxury British Brand Harrys London Relaunches THE PEOPLE SIDE OF FASHION ISSUE JACK VICTOR Sophisticated Italian Menswear NPD Group’s Chief Retail Analyst Trailblazing Retail for Decades

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EDITORIAL

Editor Laurie Melchionne

Editorial Consultant Debra Hazel

Associate Editor Lauren Schuster

Copy Editor Geraldine Melchionne

Senior California Editor Daniella Platt

California Editor Kimberly Goodnight

Director of Communications and Marketing Penelope Herrera

Social Media Manager Le’Trice DeShon

Director of Newsletter Division Cheri Phillips

PRESIDENT/CEO Jeff Mann

ART Art Director Krystal Peguero

Graphic Designer Priyanshi Pareek

Associate Designer Ran Jing

CONTRIBUTORS

Howard Bader Frank DeLucia Claire Grisolano Frances Harder Penelope Herrera Madalene Hartl R. Couri Hay Debra Hazel Donna Johnson-Klonsky Laurie Melchionne Krystal Peguero Ashanty Rivera

BUSINESS

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Le’Trice DeShon Debra Hazel Penelope Herrera Ran Jing Krystal Peguero Lauren Schuster

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e opinions expressed by our columnists are not re ective of the views and opinions of the publisher or the editorial sta of Fashion Mannuscript. Publication of such views and opinions does not constitute endorsement by Fashion Mannuscript.Any reproduction, including but not limited to internet usage, is prohibited without the express written permission of the publisher.

Entering 2023, there’s so much I can say for my first letter of the new year. Here at Mann Publications, something new and exciting is always going on, so it’s hard to put in just a few paragraphs what an exciting past 12 months it has been. However, I’ll do my best to conclude the end of the year on all the excitement that’s driving us into 2023.

I’m not sure many of you know Marshal Cohen, this issue’s cover star. He and I have had a close relationship for many years. I’ve even gotten closer to him because we are members of the same golf club and play golf throughout the spring, summer and winter in Florida. However, I’ve known all about Marshal throughout my career in the apparel industry. My family has been in the industry for 100 years, and while Marshal and I haven’t known each other for 100 years, it certainly feels like it ever since he shared with me the complete history of how he got his start one day while we were playing golf. The story he told me on the golf course is miraculous, and as you read it, you’ll discover how he skyrocketed to where he is today.

Marshal is the country’s most respected retail analyst in the field. He’s earned that title, and I’m so proud of the success he’s had. I can’t say enough about him, not only for his career achievements in retail but also for the kind of man that he is. Marshal is a true friend. It’s an honor to have Marshal grace our cover; to have him as a friend at the level I do means a lot to me and I’m very pleased to let you all hear about him, too.

Looking ahead to Black History Month in February, I’m excited to highlight the talent found in Black-owned brands, business and events throughout the country. Some other exciting things are also in the works for 2023; we have continued our work with the Mann Charitable Foundation, which will honor five women at the top of their respective fields who we consider to be ideal role models, not only in their professional achievements but also in their character, work ethic and philanthropic contributions over the years.

I hope you had a great year in 2022 (a better one than the last two!) and we at Fashion Mannuscript look forward to delivering cutting edge fashion content throughout 2023. We welcome any ideas and suggestions, so feel free to contact.

ONE MANN’S OPINION

“Lies are attempts to hide the truth by willfully denying facts. Fiction, on the other hand, is an attempt to reveal the truth by ignoring facts.”
-John Green

The first 2023 issue of the Fashion Mannuscript is a first for a few reasons. Not only is it the first issue of the new year, but it is also my first issue as the editor. Working in magazines has always been my passion, and integrating the glittering, global world of fashion into this goal has been a dream come true.

From custom-made signets and pendants by Rebus to made-to-order dresses and jumpsuits by Devan Gregori, this issue explores how bespoke fashion is for everyone. And with sustainability-minded designers and companies integrating cleaner production practices into their products, the fashion industry is less exclusive and welcomes all body types, backgrounds and values. Household names like Saks have also elevated fashion into philanthropic causes; last month, Saks paired with the Elton John AIDS Foundation for its holiday campaign to raise money, Elton John-style (you’ll see what I mean).

And then there is our cover feature, which showcases the career of Marshal Cohen, the chief retail analyst for the NPD Group. Throughout his career, Cohen has analyzed market-specific data in the industry to make predictions not only for brands and brick-and-mortar stores, but also for the consumer to cater to their needs in changing economies, trends and supply chains. Cohen has skyrocketed as one of the top analysts not just in the country, but in the global retail world itself. Featuring the face of global retail analysis on my first cover has truly been an honor.

Overall, fashion is all about the people. From prioritizing worker welfare in African gold mines to the U.S. expansion of European brands, the industry has made luxury fashion more accessible in the past year. What lies ahead for 2023 is going to be more exciting than ever before, and I can’t wait to share all the exclusive details here in the Fashion Mannuscript.

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JANUARY 2023 14 A Record-Breaking Evening for Delivering Good 16 Saks Debuts 2022 Holiday Campaign Supporting the Elton John AIDS Foundation 18 Harrys London New York Flagship Store Celebrates the Brand’s Relaunch 20 Istituto Marangoni Miaim Hosts with Studio 54 Inspired Event Featuring With Love Halston FASHION FAVORITES FASHION FABULOUS 7 One Mann’s Opinion 8 Editor’s Letter 26 411 Beauty COVER FEATURE 46 ON THE COVER MARSHAL COHEN OF NPD GROUP SHARES THE SECRETS TO INDUSTRY SUCCESS 14 FASHION FAVORITES © Getty Images
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THE DEPART MENTS 32 Finance 55 TechWear 60 The Columns 73 Trade Show Update 82 Horoscope 86 Social Soiree 90 A Closer Look: Black and White Affair By Krystal Peguero 94 Last Look: Devan Gregori By Laurie Melchionne

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Oscar de la Renta & Mytheresa Host Cocktail Party With Breathtaking Views

The

Oscar de la Renta and Mytheresa hosted a cocktail party to celebrate their exclusive capsule collection and successful ongoing relationship. Co-Creative Directors of Oscar de la Renta Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia co-hosted the evening with Tiffany Hsu, vice president of Womenswear & Kidswear, Fashion Buying at Mytheresa. event took place at SAGA, one of the latest scenic fine dining restaurants in downtown Manhattan. Guests were greeted with specialty cocktails and music by DJ Nikki Kynard, while enjoying mesmerizing, 360-degree views of the city. Photo credits: Oscar de la Renta x Mytheresa Photorapher: Madison Voelkel, BFA, New York Guests included: Coco Bassey; Elizabeth Sulcer; Jessica Wang; Lily Chee; Zion Moreno; Reign Judge; Tina Leung; Tina Craig; Ezra William; Philip Lim; Prabal Gurung; Sai de Silva; Jenny Walton; Dorothy Wang; Lameka Fox; Jenna Rennert; Laura Kim, co-creative director, Oscar de la Renta; Fernando Garcia, co-creative director, Oscar de la Renta; Michael Kliger, CEO, Mytheresa; Heather Kaminetsky, president North America, Mytheresa; Tiffany Hsu, vice pesident of Womenswear & Kidswear Fashion Buying, Mytheresa

A RECORD-BREAKING EVENING FOR DELIVERING GOOD CELEBRATING LEADERSHIP & EXCELLENCE IN FASHION, FINANCE & BEYOND

National nonprofit Delivering Good celebrated its annual fundraising event, where the organization raised a record-breaking $2.1M from

sponsors and attendees including $203,000 from the auction and fund-aneed appeal. Over 500 guests were in attendance. The event was held at the historical Cipriani 42nd Street in New York City and highlighted leadership and excellence in fashion, finance and philanthropy with a program that focused on purpose, recognition and entertainment.

The 2022 Evening of Delivering Good event opened with a roaring performance by The Brooklyn United Music and Arts Program, a youth marching band and dance line that was also the 2022 Grand Marshal at the 49th NYC Village Halloween Parade just days prior. Delivering Good Board Member and Creative Director of HALSTON, Ken Downing, served as the host and emcee of the evening and enchanted the guests with thoughtful stories and several surprises throughout the night, including some special gifts for some guests in attendance. Delivering Good’s Chair, Founder and CEO of The O Alliance, Andrea Weiss, spoke to the audience about forming closer relationships with partners and supporters of the organization in the year ahead to better help those in need. Weiss was followed by the newly appointed CEO, Matthew Fasciano, who noted the group’s work and influence in the larger community.

The CEO stated, “Delivering Good sits at the crossroads of social impact and environmental sustainability, providing companies with a responsible

way to deal with excess merchandise that also helps support a wide range of social issues. It’s a win-win-win for businesses, individuals and the planet.”

The program continued with Harry Santa-Olalla who led an appeal to fund a variety of needs for the organization including its core mission of providing new merchandise for families and individuals in need and a spirited auction that included a once-in-a-lifetime Dallas Cowboys gameday experience that went for $20,000 and a week’s stay at the exclusive Casa Sybil in the Dominican Republic that went for $10,000. The audience also heard directly from several clients and partners of Delivering Good who shared their emotional stories of challenges and perseverance.

The dinner service that followed was accompanied by yet another incredible musical performance, this one by the crossover quartet, Sons of Serendip. Awards and acceptance speeches came after the dinner break. First up was the Innovation Award given to Tackle Tomorrow by Ted Uzelac, president of Fischer, and accepted by Charles Haley, president, and Clifford Fischer, board chairman. In his acceptance speech, Fischer remarked on an encounter with Andrea Weiss that led to the idea of a toy store project, which has improved student reading in respective schools from 30% at grade level to an astounding 80% at grade level or higher.

Haley followed by sharing his personal struggles with reading and

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Photos courtesy of Craig Barritt for Getty Images.

thanking Delivering Good for helping Tackle Tomorrow combat illiteracy through the donation of products for children in need.

Up next was the Vanguard Award presented by Lew Frankfort, founder of Benvolio Group to Todd Kahn, the CEO and brand president at Coach. In his acceptance speech, Kahn spoke about the fashion industry’s support of many causes with time and funding and how “Delivering Good uses our product and not just our money and influence to do good and change lives.”

The next honoree, Nicole Pullen Ross, partner at Goldman Sachs and the NY Private Wealth Management region head, as well as head of sports & entertainment solutions, was presented with the Impact Award by John Mallory, the co-head of Global Private Wealth Management at Goldman Sachs. Ross thanked the organization for their “tireless efforts to help those during some of their most meaningful times of need” and spoke about the impact that one can make from a professional and personal standpoint.

The award presentation was finalized with the Lifetime Achievement Award going to Steven Sadove, retired chairman and chief executive officer of Saks Incorporated which was presented to him by Chris Baldwin, managing partner at CVC Capital Partners. Sadove gave a wonderful lookback on his many years in fashion and the vital work that Delivering Good has provided to the industry that he admires so much.

The event concluded with Ken Downing who was joined on stage by Joe Abruzzo, Delivering Good board member and head of commercial banking at Santander. The two congratulated the honorees and made a final appeal for donations.

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The evening was generously underwritten by the following sponsors: Simone; Tapestry; Komar; The Children’s Place; Fischer; Ajay Banja; Amazon; Avenues The World School; Baker Mackenzie; Benvolio Group; Burlington Stores; Inc.; Chris Stadler; CIT Commercial Services; CVC Capital Partners; Delta Children; Goldman Sachs Group; Inc.; Groupsoft US Inc.; HDS Capital LLC; Macy’s; Mastercard; Movado Group, Inc.; Ovative; Park Hotels & Resorts; Peerless Clothing International; Pryor Cashman, LLP; Ralph Lauren; RSM US LLP; Santander Bank; Steve Sadove; Teneo; Tharanco Group, Inc.; and The TJX Companies, Inc. In-Kind sponsors included Avenue J Florist; Coach; Macy’s; Mikasa; Multimedia Plus; NEST New York; Tane; and thelab. 2022 Honorees Clifford Fischer, Nicole Pullen Ross, Charles Haley, Todd Kahn and Steve Sadove Ken Downing, Matthew Fasciano, Clifford Fischer, Nicole Pullen Ross, Charles Haley, Todd Kahn and Andrea Weiss attend the 2022 Evening of Delivering Good An auctioneer onstage. Allan Ellinger, Matthew Fasciano, Andrea Weiss and Joe Abruzzo Clifford Fischer, Charles Haley, Andrea Weiss, Matthew Fasciano and guests at the 2022 Delivering Good Gala

SAKS DEBUTS 2022 HOLIDAY CAMPAIGN SUPPORTING THE Elton John AIDS Foundation

Sakes unveiled its iconic holiday windows with a light show, special performance by Sir Elton John and a $1 million donation to the Elton John AIDS Foundation’s Rocket Fund on November 23, 2022.

Saks, the premier luxury ecommerce platform, celebrated the launch of its 2022 holiday campaign and an integrated partnership supporting the Elton John AIDS Foundation’s Rocket Fund. The campaign kicked off with the iconic Saks light show and window unveiling at the Saks Fifth Avenue New York Flagship, featuring a special performance of “Your Song” by Sir Elton John. Viewers across the globe can experience the Saks window unveiling and momentous appearance by Sir Elton John via Saks Live, presented by Mastercard.

“Saks is proud to support the Elton John AIDS Foundation and partner with Sir Elton John, who shares our passion for self expression through creativity and fashion,” said Marc Metrick, Saks CEO. “At Saks, we are committed to connecting with our customers through unique experiences and impactful partnerships. We’re pleased to work with this incredible organization to provide our customers with an opportunity to give back this holiday season and look forward to sharing this meaningful campaign across the total Saks Fifth Avenue experience.”

Saks’ partnership includes a $1 million donation to the Elton John AIDS Foundation’s Rocket Fund, a curated multi-vendor merchandise collection, dedicated holiday window displays at the Saks Fifth Avenue New York Flagship, two Saks Live events and editorial content across

its digital platforms. Customers can shop the collection and read more about the partnership in The Edit, the Saks editorial hub for fashion news and style inspiration. The Elton John AIDS Foundation is one of the world’s leading independent AIDS organizations whose mission is to overcome the stigma and neglect that keep us from ending the AIDS epidemic for everyone, everywhere. The Rocket Fund is the Foundation’s transformative $125 million campaign to redouble the fight against AIDS.

Saks’ $1 million donation to the Elton John AIDS Foundation’s Rocket Fund includes $500,000 of proceeds from the multi-vendor merchandise collection, regardless of sales. The collection is co-curated by Saks and Sir Elton John and features products across all categories including women’s and men’s ready-to-wear, accessories, kids, beauty and home. More than 60 designers are participating including Gucci, Versace, Valentino, Wales Bonner, Jonathan Adler, Jason Wu, Paco Rabanne and more. Saks is showcasing looks from the multi-vendor collection with three dedicated windows on 50th Street at the Saks Fifth Avenue New York Flagship location. Gucci, who is Sir Elton John’s exclusive costume designer for his final tour, Farewell Yellow Brick Road, has a bespoke

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The Saks x Elton John Aids Foundation Holiday Collection display windows Photo courtesy of Luis Guillén for Saks

from accessing compassionate and life-saving HIV care.”

On view through January 3, 2023, Saks is bringing a newly designed light show to its New York Flagship store. For the first time ever, the iconic Saks light show has dynamic lighting displays that illuminate from within the windows and coordinate with the light show on the building’s facade. With new LEDs and over 600,000 individual points of light, the experience is more colorful, vibrant and immersive than ever before. The light show features a holiday medley of Elton John songs including “Step into Christmas,” “Cold Heart PNAU Remix,” “Your Song” and “Merry Christmas.”

For the thirteenth consecutive year, the Saks holiday windows and light show are presented by Mastercard. This year, the legendary center’s six windows on Fifth Avenue are inspired both by the theme of heartwarming holiday gifts from years past and the partnership with the Elton John AIDS Foundation. The whimsy and brilliant colors of the windows and the nostalgic games, including rocket ships and kaleidoscopes, are a nod to Sir Elton John’s joyous personality and can be seen throughout the spectacular installations.

window. The display features archival looks from the brand that can only be seen at Saks Fifth Avenue including custom-made suits for Sir Elton John.

Both Sir Elton John and David Furnish, chairman of the Elton John AIDS Foundation and CEO of Rocket Entertainment Group, participated in Saks Live events to discuss the Foundation’s mission, the importance of giving back during the holiday season and their collaboration with Saks:

On November 29, David Furnish chatted with Versace’s Chief Creative Officer, Donatella Versace, about fashion and philanthropy.

On December 6, Sir Elton John and Gucci’s Creative Director, Alessandro Michele, discussed friendship, collaboration and commitments t o philanthropy with a focus on the Elton John AIDS Foundation, moderated by David Furnish.

“I’m excited to collaborate with an iconic brand like Saks that is going the extra mile to make this world a brighter, more accepting place this holiday season and beyond,” said Sir Elton John. “While it’s the happiest time of the year for many, we mustn’t forget about the billions of people around the world for whom safety, respect and dignity are not guaranteed. Saks’ generous support of the Elton John AIDS Foundation’s Rocket Fund will help fuel our programs to bring an end to the stigma and discrimination that prevent so many people

Saks CEO Marc Metrick, Elton John, Deborah Metrick, David Furnish Saks Holiday Light Show Natalie Suarez Stefano Tonchi Rosemary Kokuhilwa, Flaviana Matata Elton John performing at the Saks 2022 Holiday Show Photos courtesy of Michael Blanchard Photos courtesy of BFA for Saks

NEW YORK FLAGSHIP STORE HOLDS CELEBRATION AS BRITISH FOOTWEAR BRAND HARRYS OF LONDON GETS REBRANDED AS “HARRYS LONDON”

hosted by

Magazine came together to celebrate contemporary British footwear and accessories brand Harrys of London which has been rebranded and renamed Harrys London.

The change comes after the revolutionary men’s shoe brand has expanded globally, following the opening of their New York City flagship store, which opened in 2019 at 463 Park Avenue (Park Ave. & 57th St.), and the introduction of their new creative director, Graeme Fidler, in 2021. A graduate of Northumbria University, Fidler aims to add more comfort and practicality to the stylish shoes. He is trained as a designer in the northeast of England, and worked at several companies, including Polo Ralph Lauren in New York, and worked as the design director at Aquascutum and the creative director at Bally. In 2014, Fidler launched a menswear brand called Several and worked on the Aspen Ski School collaboration with executive Read Worth. Fidler’s first line as Harrys London’s creative director is their Autumn/Winter 2022 collection.

“Harrys of London is headed in a new direction, and we are excited that Graeme will lead this growth and revitalized vision for the brand,” said Charles S. Cohen, Harrys’ chairman, in a statement.

The new rebranding aims to make the brand’s name and logo more easily accessible across shops, shoes and social media. The new, simplified logo is also in line with the new rename, adding a modern touch to the historic shoe brand that has been in steady business since 2001.

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Photos courtesy of Nicolette Richards Ambassador Images Peter Davis of Avenue The Harrys London New York Flagship Store, Creative Director Graeme Fidler and well-wishers Mike Carver, Naeem Delbridge, Byrdie Bell, Scott Buccheit Chris Leone, Emma Snowden-Jones, Jaerez
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Notable Attendees included: Graeme Fidler, Clo Cohen, Peter Davis, Menswear Influencer Bryan Griffin, Steven Beltrami, Naomi Lawson, Stylist Nolan Meader, Sydney Sadick, Romy Chan, Menswear Stylist Chiun Kai Shih, Designer Peter Som, Nadja Sayej, George Wayne, James Reginato, Interior Designer Philip Gorivan, Patrick Moxey, Mike Carver, Naeem Delbridge, Byrdie Bell, Scott Buccheit, Christian Leone, Emma Snowden-Jones, Jaerez. For more information about Harrys of London, please visit www.harrysoflondon.com.
LondonCreativeDirector ,Grae me F i d l e r
Harrys Peter Davis, Bryan Griffin Nadja Sayej, George Wayne Steven Beltrami, Naomi Lawson Nolan Meader, Sydney Sadick Romy Chan, Peter Som Clo Cohen, Graeme Fidler

Istituto Marangoni Miami Hosts with Studio 54

Inspired Event Featuring With Love Halston Student Design Contest, Runway Show & Activations

Istituto Marangoni Miami hosted a Studio 54-inspired fashion event attended by over 700 guests, celebrities, fashion industry leaders and members of the press. A centerpiece of the highenergy fete was the announcement of the With Love Halston student scholarship contest winner. Kicking off the excitement for Art Basel Miami, the celebration is part of a larger fashion movement recognizing an international cadre of new talent, innovation and inspiration.

The paparazzi section buzzed with stars, fashion executives and designers in celebration of the night’s festivities. Special guests included Halston’s niece and Founder of With Love Halston: Lesley Frowick; With Love Halston Co-Founder, Steve Gold; Halston Creative Director: Ken Downing; Istituto Marangoni Miami CEO, Hakan Bakyam; Illustrator for Halston and Ralph Lauren, Audrey Schilt; Miami Housewives, Kiki Barth. The event emcee was former Editor-in-Chief of Vogue Mexico, Eva Hughes.

“It takes courage, perseverance and a little madness to make it in this industry. Halston had this. He was courageous and extreme in his own, minimalistic way,” said IMM’s Founder and President Hakan Baykam. “We are excited to be collaborating with With Love Halston. Students need to challenge themselves and participate in contests like this one. It’s a tough industry and they need to be persistent – just like Halston.”

With Love Halston.

Student Winner Announced

The winner of the With Love Halston student design contest was Ryan Anthony Hamilton who created a Halston inspired jumpsuit with a splatter paint design. Second place was Valentina Arenas, and third place was Camila Balleste. The contest gave students, which were narrowed down to eight fi nalists, hands-on experience and insights into Halston’s talents and style. The competition used fivepoint criteria including the requirement that Ultrasuede, the fabric synonymous with his work, be used. Participants created inspiration boards, paper sketches, selected fabric swatches and showed designs with front and back views.

“My uncle was a visionary. He would be proud if he were here to witness these talented eight Marangoni Miami fi nalists,” said Lesley Frowick, Halston’s niece and Founder of the non-profit

Student fi nalists were Marissa Mercado, Maria Cacciatore, Ryan Anthony Hamilton, Jose Angel Costa, Paola Pueyo, Vanessa Lubeigt, Valentina Arenas, Camila Balleste, Veronica Scutaro and Nicole Leave.

Fashion Activations

The DJ spun music evocative of disco’s heyday, creating a retro ambiance as guests sipped Prosecco from Valdo. The evening’s events included a fashion show of the students’ Halston-inspired designs. A dramatic innovation included 3D Avatars of the models, a technique that is paving the way for an eco-friendly way of creating samples and fashion design and is at the cutting edge of fashion technology. In real time, illustrator Audrey Schilt, creative director of WLH, created drawings that were auctioned and then personalized.

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Photo credit: Rodrigo Varela/Getty Images for Istituto Marangoni Miami Eva Hughes, Ken Downing, and Lesley Frowick

Giving Thanks

The already jubilant mood of the room continued to

of WLH shared

of

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build as Hakan Baykam, Lesley Frowick and Steve Gold, managing director gratitude and substantive messages for those that participated in various elements the event including: Patrick Morgan MA RCA for the design of the invitation and posters, Scott Vogel CPA for WLH, Rigaud, The Nando and Elsa Peretti Foundation, Tiffany & Co, Toray/Ultrasuede, The Do-Gooders, HALSTON/Excel Brands, FIDA Worldwide, Amy Berkowitz and Mario Braghieri professors and mentors at Istituto Marangoni Miami. Ken Downing and Kiki Barth Eva Hughes, a model, Ryan Anthony Hamilton, Lesley Frowick and Ken Downing Ken Downing, Hakan Baykam, Lesley Frowick and Steve Gold Models pose A model walks the runway wearing Nicole Leave A model walks the runway wearing Jose Angel Acosta CAPTION???

Pentland Brands – the company behind Speedo, Berghaus, Canterbury, Ellesse and Mitre – has appointed Belinda Deery as its new chief human resources officer (CHRO). Deery is an experienced CHRO, having held HR leadership roles within FTSE-listed, private equity and family-owned global companies such as Clarks, New Look, House of Fraser and Debenhams. Deery joins Pentland this month from the behavioral change consultancy, KultraLab, where she’s been chief insight and solutions officer for the past two years. Prior to KultraLab, Deery spent nine years at Clarks in the roles of HR director, global talent director and chief people officer. In her new role as a member of the Pentland Brands executive team, Deery will lead the HR services, recruitment, reward, employee engagement and internal communications teams across the business and brands globally.

PENTLAND BRANDS APPOINTS BELINDA DEERY AS CHRO

REI Co-op has hired Patrick Fell as its VP of financial planning and analysis. REI Co-op said in a statement that Fell is providing strategic financial thought-leadership across the co-op. This includes helping drive efficiency and effectiveness in the annual planning and forecasting processes. In the role, REI said Fell is partnering with leaders across the company “to drive businesses and membership goals in support of the coop’s long term strategic plan.” Prior to REI, Fell was most recently the VP of finance at StockX. He has also held roles at eBay and General Electric.

JOINS RACK ROOM SHOES AS REGIONAL MANAGER

SCANTLAND

Rack Room Shoes has promoted longtime team member Jennifer Scantland to Midwest/Tennessee regional manager. Based in Memphis, Tenn., Scantland covers stores in West Tennessee, Mississippi, Louisiana and Arkansas. She joined Rack Room Shoes in 2003 as a part-time associate in Knoxville, Tenn. She was also an assistant manager before being promoted and relocating to Nashville to serve as district manager in 2009. Whit McConnell, VP of store operations for Rack Room Shoes, said in a statement, “Jennifer brings enthusiasm, industry experience and knowledge to share with her team as we continue to evolve and improve how we serve our customers and communities.”

PATRICK FELL BECOMES FINANCIAL VP AT REI CO-OP

TINA BLAKE JOINS TRUE RELIGION AS WOMEN’S DESIGN & BRAND IMAGE VP

Following True Religion’s partnership with Dreezy, the brand has appointed Tina Blake as Senior Vice President, Women’s Design and Brand Image. In this role, Tina will lead the team building True Religion’s women’s collections, overseeing all women’s product and brand image, spearheading initiatives to create a consistent brand identity across all aspects of the women’s business, including marketing, advertising, customer communications, social media, e-commerce, and retail stores. With the new appointment and the recent partnership with Dreezy, True Religion is leaning into its women’s department by relaunching its Core Denim collection for women and offering a more robust assortment of styles across a wider range of washes, silhouettes, and plus sizes.

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EXECUTIVE CHANGES
Belinda Deery Photo credit: Pentland Brands Photo Credit: REI Co-op
FASHION 411
Patrick Fell Photo Credit: Rack Room Shoes Jennifer Scantland Photo Credit: True Religion Tina Blake

HURDLE LAUNCHES FOOTWEAR LINE FEATURING TECHNOLOGY-DRIVEN SUPPORT AND PROTECTION

Hurdle, an innovative footwear brand, launched its tech-infused, athleisure sock line. Hurdle is breaking the mold within the footwear industry with its precision engineering and patented MicroGravity Matrix - a soft, multi-dimensional support network that offloads weight away from vulnerable areas of the foot and provides unrivaled support and cushioning for all active lifestyles.

Hurdle’s first-of-its-kind proprietary MicroGravity Matrix is engineered to absorb impact and provide optimal cushioning and weight distribution. With over 2,000 micro air channels for ultimate breathability, along with enhanced blister protection from the ultra-thin MicroPly² knitting technology, the athleisure product is a game changer in the circular knitting industry. The sock collection will be available for both men and women and is offered in three different styles and various colors. Individual pairs start at $18.95. Bundling and discount options are also available.

“The Hurdle team is excited about making a difference in people’s lives by bringing innovative products to market in a space that is rarely tech-focused,” said Taylor Matter, founder of Hurdle Apparel. “Hurdle’s goal is to redefine footwear, make a difference in the lives of others and carve out a space in consumer comfort technologies starting with Hurdle’s precision engineered socks.”

Hurdle was founded in 2020 after Matter developed an overuse injury, called capsulitis, in his left foot. After overcoming his injury, he was determined to find a solution to ensure that he could continue his active lifestyle without risk of another injury.

Operating its own research and development lab, Hurdle can experiment new ideas and techniques and has some of the best talent in the circular knitting and mechanical engineering industries. The footwear line was co-founded by Tosha Hays, former SPANX Executive and Dorian Lockett.

PUMA TEAMS UP WITH POKÉMON FOR A SPECIAL COLLECTION OF FOOTWEAR, APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES

PUMA, in collaboration with The Pokémon Company International, announced its creative collection featuring the incredible world of Pokémon. PUMA takes inspiration from fan-favorite Pokémon – including Pikachu, Bulbasaur, Charmander, Squirtle and Gengar – for the new collection featuring iconic graphics and playful attention to detail.

The collection’s sneakers focus on these beloved Pokémon from the globally popular entertainment franchise, as highlighted by the PUMA Slipstream Charmander as well as PUMA’s Suede, Rider FV and TRC Blaze Court, which are inspired by Pikachu, Bulbasaur, Squirtle and Gengar. Through the footwear range, Pokémon fans will find hidden details on the tongue label, insole and heel.

For the accompanying apparel, textured prints add a tactile detail to items like a sherpa jacket and sweatpants, while Pokémon graphics are featured across an assortment of cotton T-shirts, relaxed crews and hoodies. Lastly, accessories are included in the form of collaborative beanies and messenger bags.

In addition, an exclusive capsule collection from the PUMA x Pokémon collaboration, featuring RS-X Pikachu trainers and select apparel, footwear and accessories - will be available at Foot Locker and Pokémon Center, the premier online destination for official high-quality Pokémon merchandise in the US, Canada, and UK.

For the launch of the collection in the U.S., PUMA and Foot Locker Inc. partnered with The Pokémon Company International and Niantic, publisher of the popular Pokémon GO mobile game, to turn 400 Foot Locker, Champs Sports and Kid’s Foot Locker stores across the U.S. only and the PUMA NYC flagship store on 5th Avenue into Gyms and Poké Stops in Pokémon GO, for the next six months.

mannpublications.com JANUARY 2023 FM | 25 FASHION 411
FOOTWEAR
Photo courtesy of Hurdle Photo Credit: PUMA x Pokémon Cole Haan

PARIS

HILTON UNVEILED

NEW LOVE RUSH FRAGRANCE

HER FIRST WEDDING ANNIVERSARY

ON

Paris Hilton and Parlux LTD. announced the launch of Love Rush, the fragrance Hilton personally created and wore on her wedding day. The fragrance is now available to the public for the first time to coincide with her first wedding anniversary (November11).

Love Rush is a bold, striking, yet sentimental addition to the Rush Collection that radiates romance, elegance and love. The scent encapsulates some of the most luxurious florals, including notes of Italian bergamot, white apricot nectar, lush gardenia, sandalwood and vanilla orchid, highlighting the radiance and allure that comes with finding forever love.

“This is my most intimate fragrance to date, the perfume I wore on my wedding day. Since I was a little girl, I dreamt of my wedding day and this fragrance made it even more special and memorable. Whenever I wear Love Rush, I feel immersed in true love and happiness,” stated Paris Hilton.

Hilton met with Firmenich Perfumer Clement Gavarry to share her personal vision for the fragrance she would wear on her wedding day. She brought along her then-fiancé, now husband Carter Reum, so he could share in the development of her dream wedding fragrance.

Gavarry said, “It was important for me to capture the essence of Paris’s adoration for her new marriage. I was drawn in by her passion for love, real and unconditional, that I could see in her eyes. I knew instantly that this fragrance needed to represent Paris’s love story. I combined celebratory ingredients to capture the essence of perfect love: exciting, sweet and romantic.”

LEADING NATURAL MEN’S PERSONAL CARE BRAND, DR. SQUATCH, ANNOUNCES CATEGORY EXPANSION WITH NEW NATURAL LOTION

Dr. Squatch, the fast-growing men’s natural soap and personal care brand, expanded its product portfolio with the launch of its new natural hand and body lotion line in three unique manly scents: Fresh Falls, Pine Tar and Cool Fresh Aloe.

“The launch of our natural men’s lotion is an exciting milestone for Dr. Squatch, and supports our goal of providing high quality, natural personal care products for everyday guys,” said Josh Friedman, chief marketing officer at Dr. Squatch. “Our customers have been asking us for years to create a lotion, and we are excited to deliver it to Squatch Nation. Men tend to follow a reactive approach to skincare and lack education on the benefits of using body lotion on a regular basis. Dr. Squatch wants to flip this narrative by educating men on the benefits of using lotion regularly, not just for dry skin because all people deserve to have soft, healthy skin.”

Dr. Squatch discovered through research that only half of all men use hand and body lotion, despite dry skin being one of the top personal care concerns for men. This insight, combined with the fact that many men’s lotions on the market are made with synthetic ingredients like petrolatum and parabens, led Dr. Squatch to create a better lotion for men. Through the launch of lotion, Dr. Squatch aims to educate men on the benefits of the product through their comedic and entertaining content.

Like all Dr. Squatch products, the new lotions are made with natural ingredients and are free from harsh chemicals and synthetic ingredients. Formulated with a powerful blend of natural moisturizers and nutrients like Shea Butter, Vitamin E and Coconut Oil, these lotions hydrate and soothe to help keep skin healthy, strong and soft. Unlike greasy formulas currently on the market, Dr.Squatch’s high-performing hand and body lotions are lightweight, absorb quickly and rub into the skin with little effort. The lotion line is available now to Dr Squatch subscribers for $15 or $16 for one-time purchasers.

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BEAUTY FASHION 411
Photo courtesy of Love Rush Photo courtesy of JLo Beauty Photo courtesy of Dr. Squatch

BURBERRY LAUNCHES “THE NIGHT BEFORE” CAMPAIGN

Burberry released its new festive campaign “The Night Before” – a celebration of the excitement and anticipation of festive preparations.

The buzz of the festive season was captured by the visionary TORSO in a fast-paced film where familiar moments of festive preparations were imagined through a distinctive Burberry lens: confidently individual, daringly original and free.

Starring world-renowned Shakira and Burna Boy – both making their Burberry campaign debut – each embody their own interpretation of the exhilaration of the night before. The film shows several episodes; presents in Burberry House Check pile upon each other as Burna Boy strides across freshly fallen snow, musicians rehearse to the rhythm of the season, Shakira stands on formal dinner tables that transform into a Burberry runway – the ultimate setting for self-expression and new takes on festive traditions.

The collection included iconic outerwear from duffle coats in birch brown Burberry Check to beige car coats. Evening wear includes tulle gowns with the Equestrian Knight Design and oak leaf crest in light-catching crystals as well as classic menswear suits printed and jacquard-woven with the Equestrian Knight Design. Accessories shimmer with metallic finishes and light-catching crystals.

PAIR OF THIEVES

LAUNCHES

NEW “HUSTLE” UNDERWEAR & SOCK COLLECTION MADE FOR GEN Z

Pair of Thieves is disrupting the men’s underwear space yet again with an innovative line packed with features and bold style. Their latest creation, “Hustle,” is a brand-new underwear and sock collection inspired by and created for Gen Z, a generation that is rewriting the rules of work and carving their own path.

This new gear offers distraction-free wear across work, play and everything else that occupies the multi-hyphenates nonstop grind. Fashionably distinguished in bold prints or subtle solid colorway, every item in the Hustle collection is fast-drying, moisture-wicking and anti-odor. Hustle underwear is available in sizes Small through XXLarge and includes a unique Cool Breeze Pouch™ for targeted lower-frontal support and cooling.

“Hustle was built for the active and engaged generation of today,” said Pair of Thieves Co-Founder, Cash Warren. “The idea of working one job, doing one thing, is becoming more and more outdated. Gen Z has fully embraced pursuing a more varied lifestyle and we wanted to create a collection that aligned with this mindset. All-day wearables that perform great and provide maximum comfort in all settings, and under any conditions. They happen to look great too!”

Hustle Underwear and Socks are available at select Target stores and Pairofthieves. com, with wider retail and online offerings in 2023.

About Pair of Thieves

Pair of Thieves was founded in 2012 by lifelong friends Alan Stuart, Cash Warren and David Ehrenberg. Originally created as a sock company, the brand has expanded to men’s underwear and undershirts, bringing customers high-quality basics at an affordable price. Their products not only feature unique styles and designs but are made of high-tech quality fabrics with an engineered fit for complete comfort. Since its inception, Pair of Thieves has donated millions of pairs of socks to those in need. Pair of Thieves apparel can be found on their website pairofthieves.com.

mannpublications.com JANUARY 2023 FM | 27 COLLECTIONS FASHION 411
Photo courtesy of Burberry / TORSO Photo courtesy of Pair of Th ieves
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SECURED FINANCE NETWORK RECOGNIZES MARC HELLER, PRESIDENT OF CIT COMMERCIAL SERVICES, WITH LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD
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Photo courtesy of Jill Lotenberg

Marc Heller, president of CIT Commercial Services, was recently recognized by the Secured Finance Network for significant and lasting contributions to the secured finance industry.

As a leading industry resource for finance organizations and professionals, the Secured Finance Network (SFNet) recognized Heller with a Lifetime Achievement Award and inducted him into the SFNet Hall of Fame.

SFNet’s Lifetime Achievement Award celebrates the positive impact individuals have had on the secured finance industry. Award winners have a minimum of 25 years of continuous involvement in the industry, and if lenders, at least 15 years as a member of SFNet. They are nominated by their peers for their career accomplishments and are evaluated on criteria such as contributions to the industry, development of industry participants, entrepreneurial spirit, innovation and advocacy.

Heller has been in the financial services industry since 1970. He has been with HSBC and its predecessor, Republic Business Corporation since 1991. While at HSBC, he held the position of Executive Vice President and New York Regional Manager of HSBC Business Credit (USA) Inc. Heller joined CIT in January 2004 when CIT acquired the factoring portfolio of HSBC. With Heller as president, CIT Commercial Services became one of the nation’s leading providers of factoring and lending services to the apparel, textiles, furniture, home furnishings, housewares, consumer electronics and consumer products industries.

When reflecting on how he got started in the industry, Heller recalled, “In June 1970, I was wearing my only suit – navy blue wool – and walking around Manhattan in search of a job. It was really hot, and I was scheduled to meet my father at the end of the day so we could come home together. Shortly before that, I stepped into an office building in the fashion district to wash up. When I came out, someone asked me if I was here for a job, either in sales or credit. I was looking for a job, so, I said ‘Sure!’ but felt credit was a better fit. I didn’t even know what the company did, but I’ve always been a hard worker and I felt comfortable tying fashion relationships with credit analysis.”

He added, “52 years later, I know I made the right decision.”

Heller has received a number of industry awards for his career impact, leadership and community involvement. In 1996, he received the Financial Services Industries Award from the Jewish Congress. Later, in 1998, he received the Leadership in Education Award from the New York Institute of Credit. He also received the

Community Achievement Award from ORT in 2002, the Top Hat Award in 2004, and the Partner in Kindness Award from Sephardic Bikur Holim in 2015. He has been honored with the Irving and Marion Mann Humanitarian award by the Mann Charitable Foundation. In addition, he is the founding member and formerly an executive board member of Fashion Delivers, now known as Delivering Good, a charitable foundation created to mobilize leading retailers and manufacturers to help youth and their families in need. He is also a board member of the Father’s Day and Mother’s Day Council.

Throughout his extensive career, Heller has always been most proud of the relationships he has made and maintained with clients and industry associates. “Those relationships are some of the biggest achievements I’ve had. And something that I never take for granted,” Heller said. “I’ve been privileged in my career to learn from some of the best in the industry and that has made me a better leader. I’m proud to say that many of the people who worked beside me and for me have enjoyed very long successful careers.”

Heller received his Lifetime Achievement Award at SFNet’s 78th Annual Convention on Nov. 11 in Austin, Texas. The convention, with the theme “Mastering Disruption – Putting Capital to Work in the New Global Environment,” included insights and education by industry leaders who explored various topics including the future of energy, rebuilding the supply chain, trade finance, inflation and Fed rate hikes, ESG, DEI, issues of fraud and regulatory developments around the globe.

The 2022 Lifetime Achievement Award winners were inducted into the SFNet Hall of Fame during the convention’s Board of Directors reception. In receiving the 2022 award, Heller, along with CIT’s Michael Coiley, a managing director in CIT Healthcare Finance, joined a long list of honorees from a wide range of financial institutions including Wells Fargo, Bank of America, Fifth Third Bank and more.

CIT Commercial Services is one of the nation’s leading providers of working capital financing, credit protection and accounts receivable management to consumer product companies.

In January 2022, CIT merged with First Citizens Bank, the largest family-controlled bank in the United States, to create a top 20 U.S. financial institution with more than $100 billion in assets. The company’s commercial banking segment brings a wide array of best-in-class lending, leasing and banking services to middle-market companies and small businesses from coast to coast. First Citizens also operates a nationwide direct bank and a network of more than 550 branches in 22 states, many in high-growth markets.

mannpublications.com JANUARY 2023 FM | 33 FINANCE

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JACK VICTOR –HERITAGE MENSWEAR HEADS FOR THE FUTURE

iewing next season’s Jack Victor collection, it’s difficult to imagine the brand has been around since the turn of the century. But closer scrutiny of its internal construction quickly reveals the fine tailoring that has sustained the line’s peerless heritage. In the journey from its humble Quebec beginnings to international recognition, Jack Victor’s classic aesthetic has only changed slightly,

but its success comes from its ability to adapt to changing market trends. In recent years, the brand has judiciously expanded its core suits and blazers to dress shirts, neckwear and sportswear; adapted omni-channel retailing by adding direct-to-consumer e-commerce to the website while rolling out at all Nordstrom doors by 2023; and committed to socially responsible production.

36 | FM JANUARY 2023 mannpublications.com
Photos courtesy of Jack Victor Ltd
FEATURES
V

The collection is, of course, front and center. Shoulders are softer. Silhouettes are leaner. Colors like teal and aubergine signal more confidence. Noticeably, the suits and jackets are being matched with sportier tops with ease by having a versatile and complementary color palette. According to James Watson, creative and DTC business director, “We’re acutely aware of how modern men are dressing. They’re a little more open to bolder colors. But many still prefer looking less formally suited. So we really set off to make our collection worry-free for men. They don’t have to overthink how they’re going to dress. They can throw on our more casual tops and suits in almost any combination and walk out the door looking perfectly coordinated.”

Traditionalists are equally well-served though with more business appropriate dress shirts with classic details like patch pockets, peak lapels and even trouser pleats, not to mention the impeccable tailoring with pick stitching. These are all made possible because the company has its own manufacturing facilities in Montreal to ensure meticulous production and quality.

Critical to that are the superior woven fabrics from the best weavers in the Biella region of Italy. The sweaters are of a specific cotton yarn with a luxuriously soft yet durable quality, knitted in central Italy and crafted in collaboration with the brand’s Italian partners from a carefully regulated source. Also noteworthy are the wool, silk and linen blends for the blazers, as well as a stretch jersey version that packs into a suitcase and comes out pristine without the need to steam or press.

Watson also pointed out the brand’s rigorous efforts to be socially responsible. The cotton used in the sweaters and polos is 100% Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certified organic cotton. He added, “We’ve also introduced a core shirt made from TENCEL™. I truly believe this is the material of the future. Not only is it one of the most sustainable fibers because it’s a natural cellulose fiber created from the wood pulp of eucalyptus trees, but it’s also ultra-soft, durable, breathable and moisture wicking. And just as vital, it’s harvested from certified and regulated wood sources and is fully compostable and biodegradable.”

Meanwhile, the latest shirts and polos use special Jack Victor branded corozo buttons naturally sourced from Tagua palm trees that grow in the lowland rainforests of Ecuador, Peru, Columbia and Panama. After hardening over a period of about eight months, the corozo nuts that are housed in each pod simply fall to the forest floor. They can then be cut and finished for a fading and scratch resistant finish with a smooth, natural grain.

Moreover, Jack Victor’s Montreal factories and offices already use 95% renewable energy with an eye on making production itself sustainable. The factory workforce is unionized and extremely diverse.

“Sustainable operations is an ongoing project that’s very close to my heart,” said Watson. “We’re thrilled to be able to work in conjunction with our supply chain, wholesale clients and logistics teams towards a fully traceable and responsible supply chain with our processes, packaging and products.”

According to Watson, Jack Victor works alongside third-party organizations to trace the origins of various yarns and fabrics, and even researches the working conditions that surround sourcing the materials used in production.

Watson concluded, “We are constantly evaluating the methods used by these organizations and encouraging them to apply the highest possible standards to their work. We are determined to advance our understanding and management of the company’s environmental footprint.”

Without a doubt, Jack Victor is a heritage brand that isn’t interested in relying on past laurels but determined to expand into new categories, open new distribution channels and innovate for a sustainable future.

mannpublications.com JANUARY 2023 FM | 37

Positive Luxury Shaping A Sustainable Future For Luxury Brands, Suppliers And Retailers

Photos courtesy of Positive Luxury

Luxuy is the state of great comfort and extravagant living, but is it worth it for the planet in the long

run? Can we really have our cake and eat it, too?

In these transitional times, people are growing more concerned with the environment. When looking at what brands to shop for, people consider how the brand is positively or negatively affecting the environment, what actions the brand has taken as well as what the brand looks to do in the future that benefits the environment.

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mannpublications.com

Can we have luxury items without hurting the environment?

Positive Luxury, a company dedicated to integrating sustainability into global luxury brands for over a decade, is working to ensure that this becomes the case.

Recently, the company launched the Connected Butterfly Mark, an app that allows brands to showcase their sustainability ranking. Companies that meet Positive Luxury’s exacting standards for certification are awarded the Butterfly Mark certification, a globally respected trust mark that is independently verified and signals that companies meet the highest standard of sustainability across ESG. The original Butterfly Mark certification was launched in 2011, exclusively for luxury brands, and it provides independent verified evidence to stakeholders of an organization’s ESG (environmental, social and governance) performance.

Luxury brands are often scrutinized by many due to their immense presence and influence on society. Whether it’s consumers suspicious of greenwashing, seeking transparency and evidence-based claims or legislators impacting all companies from large and small to public and private, luxury brands are under increasing pressure to evidence positive impact across their value chain. Employees increasingly choose to work with companies whose values align with their own.

Furthermore, shareholders and investors are seeking strong ESG performance, reducing risk and enhancing corporate value. Despite the pressure for luxury brands to do right by everyone, evidence is growing as exhaustive studies by academics and investor groups demonstrate a strong and growing impact of ESG performance on fi nancial results and equity returns. The fact of the matter is that no matter which lens you view sustainability through, doing better by the environment leads to a lot of positives in the eyes of both the public and private sectors. This is part of Positive Luxury’s goals.

Co-founder and Co-CEO of Positive Luxury, as well as a pioneer in ESG and a globally recognized figure in the sustainability field, Diana Verde Nieto stated, “Consumers, employees and the investment community are demanding transparency and accountability from brands, and our new Connected Butterfly Mark answers to that. From a single source of truth, people can easily access an unparalleled depth of verified ESG verified performance data, including a brand’s sustainability journey, clearly stating their actions and ambition. This level of disclosure raises the bar, for luxury and beyond.”

Positive Luxury helps luxury companies manage their sustainability risk and opportunities, accelerate efforts to improve ESG performance and leverage sustainability as a driver of positive impact and corporate value. The company helps other companies adapt to the fast-emerging climate economy and ensures they are future-proofed against societal and legislative shifts.

The company’s unique four-part methodology is the only ESG certification designed specifically for the luxury industry

and incorporating a unique focus on innovation. Rejecting the traditional model of certification based on past performance, Positive Luxury provides clients with clear gap analysis and tools enabling organizations to embed ESG practices throughout their operations. Their diagnostic and communication tools foster trust amongst stakeholders: consumers, customers, employees, shareholders and investors.

Positive Luxury’s Methodology consists of the following:

Stage 1: Assessment

Their ESG framework, with a unique focus on innovation, is the most comprehensive on the market and has been developed to future-proof one’s company rather than simply audit prior performance.

Stage 2: Certification

Butterfly Mark certification is earned through business transformation, providing comprehensive risk management and independently validated measures to meet growing demands for transparency.

Stage 3: Trust-Building

They provide a comprehensive suite of tools to support one throughout their sustainability journey, ensuring they can credibly communicate the positive impact of their efforts and earn the trust of all their stakeholders.

Stage 4: Future-Proofi ng

Leveraging their reporting and insights, they will help you prioritize your key areas of opportunity for value generation and competitive advantage, and ensure you are always aware of new legislation.

With a growing community of nearly 200 luxury companies, Positive Luxury has created a community of brands, retailers and suppliers taking tangible action – measuring, managing and reporting their ESG impact. Their new digital Connected Mark will enable businesses to demonstrate their sustainability efforts directly to their consumers and stakeholders with transparent data. The tool can be easily embedded and accessed on a company’s website or retailer’s product pages by clicking a widget button, or via hyperlink, QR code or NFC tag directly from the product or retail environment – from packaging to the shop window. Easy for clients to install via plug-ins and through the tool’s passport office, consumer behavioral data is directly accessible to Butterfly Mark certified brands via a dashboard. Blockchain-ready, the Connected Butterfly Mark has been designed to provide productlevel traceability in phase 2 (available in 2023).

With over 180 certifications and nearly 200 luxury companies ranging from Dior to Tom Ford Beauty, Positive Luxury and the Connected Butterfly Mark have made major strides to incorporate sustainability into luxury. When it comes to luxury living, it turns out that you really can have your cake—and eat it too. To learn more about Positive Luxury and the Connected Butterfly Mark, go to www.positiveluxury.com and @Positiveluxury across the social media platforms.

FEATURES
JANUARY 2023 FM | 39

PRETTY AND POWERFUL:

PhotoscourtesyofNoel McGrath

TIGIST PETITES IS CHANGING THE WAY PETITE WOMEN DRESS

It’s been more than three years since Tigist Ketema, the founder and visionary designer behind Tigist Petites, first conceptualized her industry-changing clothing brand. Born out of her own frustrations, Tigist Petites is a New York-manufactured, luxury dress brand committed to quality and ethical practices from design to delivery. A result of Ketema’s own inability to find wellconstructed, high-quality dresses to fit her own petite, hourglass frame, Tigist Petites’ garments are elegantly crafted to meet the sizing, style and quality standards of the brand’s sophisticated audience of pretty, powerful, petite women. “I was continually frustrated by the lack of well-made, well-tailored silhouettes available in my size, particularly when it came to shopping for workwear,” said Ketema. After diving into her own extensive market research and “personally coming across many other women who shared the same frustrations,” Ketema found that she was not alone in her quest for chic, stylish pieces that were specifically made for the petite female figure and set out to make the world’s first designer ready-to-wear collection for petite women. Each piece is specifically cut to suit the unique height, shape, and quality needs of the petite female form.

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“When designing petite dresses,” said Ketema, “hemlines are far from the only consideration.” Most standard-sized brands simply chop the length of a dress or shorten the inseam of a pant to accommodate a shorter body, however the petite female figure actually needs more tailoring than a simple hem chop. “It’s problematic, because the overall proportions of petite women differ from those of a woman who is taller than 5 ‘4,”” explained Ketema.

For a garment to truly be fitted for the petite figure, arm, shoulder and torso, measurements also need to be taken into consideration. This is something that the majority of major brands simply do not invest the time or energy into doing. “Working ‘down’ from a standard sized pattern, the seams of a standard sized garment land in the wrong places and lead to an awkward fit,” said Ketema, who described this experience, one that she and many other petite women have faced, as “demoralizing.” Because Tigist Petites is exclusively designed for women under 5’4”, however, each of the brand’s patterns are specifically designed to fit and flatter the petite form. “We make sure our dresses are fitted on petite fit models, so that the dresses are cut and sewn in accordance with what looks best on the petite frame.”

The end goal of Tigist Petites is to make each woman wearing one of their pieces feel comfortable and confident in her own skin, so instead of fidgeting with her dress, she can focus rather on conquering her day.

When she set out to create her line, Ketema heavily drew inspiration from high-end men’s suiting; silhouettes that are ubiquitous in the boardroom and that often serve as grand symbols of success and power. Tigist Petites is an “ultra-feminine alternative loaded with the same measure of power and self-assuredness,” promised Ketema, who aims to embolden her clients, primarily professional petite women working in corporate spaces, to feel self-assured and confident walking into any room.

That confidence is also something Ketema herself needed when conceptualizing her brand. While many encouraged her to manufacture her garments overseas to lower costs and increase accessibility to her line, Ketema held strong in keeping her brand American-made. “Making sure every piece in the Tigist Petites collection is made ethically is supremely important to me,” said Ketema, who holds a master’s degree in global policy and wrote her thesis on the pervasive nature of labor abuse in the global fashion industry. Manufacturing in New York’s historic Garment District is not only a love letter to the city Ketema calls home, but also allows her to “closely monitor both the quality of work and the labor practices of my production partners.” She added, “I take on the added costs knowing that I can guarantee that the skilled tailors and artisans working on my line are paid fairly for their work and treated with dignity throughout every step of the process.”

Ketema championing of slow fashion and local production and commitment to providing high-quality, well-tailored pieces for petite women is already paying off, with her customers raving over her initial three silhouettes, each of which is available in three distinct fabrications. The Tigist Petites’ debut collection of dresses retail for between $835 and $855, depending on the style, and is available online now at TigistPetites.com.

FEATURES

URBAN BARN LAUNCHES EXCLUSIVE CAPSULE COLLECTION WITH CANADIAN DESIGNER TOMMY SMYTHE

Urban Barn, Canada’s destination for specialty home decor, announced the launch of an exclusive, limited edition capsule collection with renowned Canadian designer and TV personality, Tommy Smythe.

Bringing in Tommy’s signature style, the 22-piece capsule collection features thoughtfully designed home decor in neutral tones created to blend with existing decor. With a variety of textures and patterns, the Tommy Smythe x Urban Barn collection gives consumers access to Tommy’s premium designs at an accessible price point.

“I’m thrilled to collaborate with Urban Barn to create pieces that are unique and elevated, but that can also easily be folded seamlessly into existing interiors,” said Smythe. “This is my first-ever collaboration, and it has been incredible bringing my vision to life. Through my design work, my aim is to evoke personal connections through objects, which is exactly what we’re doing through this capsule collection.”

Exploring storytelling through objects, the Tommy Smythe x Urban Barn collection ranges from $49 to $199, and includes vegan leather pillows, quilted throws, brass vases and both marble and glass jars, among other items.

“As one of Canada’s beloved design personalities, Tommy makes an excellent partner and we’ve cherished working with him on this collection,” said Urban Barn’s Creative Director, Sébastien Fauteux. “Aligning with our mission to help everyone feel right at home, Tommy’s expertise in design unearthed a modern, yet classic collection with a color palette that will stand the test of time.”

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FASHION AT HOME
Photo Credit: TANYA GOEHRING/PNG

Bespoke jewelry by Rebus promotes the freedom that accompanies owning a custom-made, hand-engraved signet ring, a tradition typically associated with family heritage crests from landed gentry.

The company was born from R.H. Wilkins, world-renowned Londonbased goldsmith and founder, Emmett Smith, who believes that what makes Rebus so special is its personal relationship with each and every customer.

The brand’s focus is on customer experience. While Rebus has a store in London, it’s less of a storefront for merchandise and more of a reverse design studio; reverse in the way that the customers sketch their own designs, or partner alongside a Rebus designer, wherein designs are presented to Rebus artisans for a bespoke, made-to-order piece that is tailored from start to fi nish.

“I don’t see myself as a designer,” said Smith. “I’m a hand-engraver. The customer is more of a designer than I am.”

Smith’s experience stems from R.H. Wilkins, where he worked as an apprentice for almost six years before his naturally curious mind had

him packing his bags to travel around the world. When he returned to London in 2000, he bought and owned R.H. Wilkins, and from there, Rebus was born. The brand stemmed from Smith’s disillusionment with the mindset that dominated London business-to-business hand engravers.

“We were everyone’s best kept secret,” Smith said. “I felt that the staff in the stores around London weren’t selling hand engraving as a value service. They almost treated it as an inconvenience.”

Around that time, R.H. Wilkins mainly worked with other busi nesses, providing engraving for church wear, sporting trophies, etc. “Some of the products we got to engrave were horrible and I thought, ‘I’d love to have a business directed to the consumer who will celebrate what we do here,’ so I made a decision to branch off.”

From there, Rebus outgrew R.H. Wilkins and returned handengraving to consumers rather than businesses. With Rebus’ bespoke design service, the consumer also has more autonomy on the fi nal outcome of the product.

REBUS BESPOKE RINGS: Making

Custom Signets Democratic

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All images are courtesy of Rebus. 9K White Gold Oxford 55 Signet Ring - 18x14 9K White Gold Oxford 55 Signet Ring – 14x12 Both feature a custom surface cut monogram

“My inspiration comes from communicating to customers. Signet rings are democratic; they’re not just for privileged, landed gentry entitled to family crests. Anyone can wear them. There are no rules.”

An intricate process narrows down each piece to craft a ring by the customer, for the customer. “The process is called dye-stamping,” Smith said. “It’s like a coin, and the rings are stamped out flat. This is a far superior way of manufacturing than wax casting. The ring is harder, denser and is more enjoyable for the craftsman to carve.”

First, the customer selects the ring’s shape and metal, with options ranging from Platinum, 9K, 14K and 18K gold in yellow, white or rose gold. The Metals Buying Guide gives the customer a deep dive into the shade, weight and longevity of each precious metal before they make their selection.

Next, comes the artwork and engraving. Customers can choose artwork from the Rebus crest/monogram service, or simply walk into the store with a sketch scribbled onto a piece of paper. From there, each and every design is carved using basic, traditional tools.

“We don’t use any special technology,” explained Smith. “Everything is traditional, from pencil and paper to handheld chisels. By the end of the process, the ring is a miniature sculpture.”

Precious metals are carved using two main methods: deep seal engraving and surface engraving. Deep seal engraving is used for deep-cut, simpler monograms and seals such as 3D wax impressions for personalized seals used to authenticate important documents. Engravers who utilize surface engraving push through the metal so that the artwork can truly breathe no matter how intricate, since the metal does not get a deep carve. Surface engraving, the same technique used by traditional banknote engravers, is also used on Rebus cuffl inks and precious metal pendants.

Once the materials and artwork are tailored, the customer’s fi nger sizes are measured with the fi nger size gauge that accompanies the Welcome Pack. Second fittings for stone set signet rings further perfect the piece for size and style. For international customers ordering overseas, replica resin samples get shipped to their home in order to duplicate the fitting via a resin kit.

Quality of straightforward, traditional craftsmanship starts with the apprentices who Smith molds with hands-on training so that they learn the art behind Rebus. In addition to quality workmanship, service and materials, Smith also values sustainability. Rebus uses Single-Mined Origin gold (SMO), which is the industry standard for gold that guarantees traceable, ethically-sourced gold to a single mine in West Africa (the Yanfolila mine in Mali). Where Smith values the people’s side of custom jewelry, he also values the people’s side of manufacturing. SMO gold ensures that mines work in fair conditions with ethical wages and secure employment.

Communities that surround SMO gold mines also benefit from sustainability initiatives that include education programs, healthcare, access to clean water and agricultural prosperity to reduce poverty, poor hygiene and health in Africa. Rebus jewelry owners can trace where every single part of their piece came from, thanks to a QR code that tells them the full story of where and when the gold was mined, information about the mine itself and the community initiatives that the mine provides to the surrounding area.

For the future, Smith is striving to grow Rebus’ trunk show presence in the U.S. So far, Rebus has been to Los Angeles, San Francisco and New York and hopes to expand to Philadelphia and cities across Texas. Rebus also aims to have 80% of their jewelry produced with SMO gold within twelve months.

“If something is worth making, it is worth making it well,” added Smith. “We never get anything back for repairs. The things we make are bomb proof.”

With the level of materials and craftsmanship that goes into every product, it isn’t hard to imagine that in a few centuries, instead of Greek and Roman artifacts dug up by archaeologists, it will be Rebus signets and pendants. Lead time varies depending on materials and design complexity. Typically, pendants and cuffl inks are fi nished within one week, while seal-engraved, stone set jewelry can take up to 12 weeks. Prices vary depending on engraving, design complexity and the type of precious metal used.

Formoreinformation,visitrebussignetrings.com.

mannpublications.com JANUARY 2023 FM | 45
Platinum Oxford 55 Signet Ring – 16x13 Seal Engraved Claddagh Badge Talisman 18K Yellow Gold Chain Linked Cufflink, Surface cut crest & initial
FEATURES
14K Yellow Gold Landscape Oval- 10x12 Seal engraved crest; this was a custom design based on the customer’s bichon frise
46 | FM JANUARY 2023 mannpublications.com COVER FEATURE
RETAIL TO RESEARCH How Thinking a Play Ahead Shaped Marshal Cohen’s Career
FROM

Marshal Cohen, chief industry advisor of the NPD Group, was born for the retail industry; after all, he started working in his father’s store selling sheets and towels in downtown Manhattan at eight years old. This is where Cohen developed skills that he took with him at each step along the way to become the retail analyst to top manufacturers and retailers today. At the family store, EZRA COHEN Corp, Cohen learned how to merchandise the sales floor, redefine the merchandise and even more importantly, how to size up the shopper.

Cohen played team sports through college and was a standout, not just for his long hair, his speed or even his flashy shoes, but also for the way he sized up the competition. He knew when to steal a base or throw behind a runner to catch him off guard. He studied the competition and knew just how to be one step ahead of them. While playing baseball and basketball for American University, Cohen integrated creativity into his game play, much in the way he develops creative strategies for retailers to improve their businesses today.

Timing is (Almost) Everything

Finding ways to do things differently was always Cohen’s key to success, but timing was just as important. On a hot summer day in college, he drove his girlfriend to a Bloomingdale’s opening in Tyson’s Corner, Virginia. Instead of waiting in the sweltering heat of the parking lot, he stepped into the store in hopes of some air conditioning.

Upon entering the store, he was told that only employees and applicants could enter prior to the store opening in a few weeks. This didn’t present a problem; Cohen asked to fill out an application just to wait in the AC, but had no plans to actually interview.

Lo and behold, he was called into an interview room where the head of Bloomingdale’s human resources offered him a job on the spot after hearing about his background in his family’s store. He was assigned a position in what was called Saturday’s Generation, the jean shop inside the men’s area. As a college student, he thought it would be nice to work a couple of nights and fold jeans all while listening to music. While his background working in his family’s store always aligned him with retail, the part time gig at Bloomingdale’s would spark a long road of success.

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“Learning how to understand what the customer wants and needs was ingrained in me from an early age and has proven to be valuable even now,” said Cohen.
credit NPD Group
Photo

Making His Mark

In true Cohen fashion, while setting up the store for opening day, he was asked to put together the sweater wall in the men’s department, the premiere focal point as customers entered the area. A childhood spent folding towels and making them look eye popping was the prelude to this now legendary sweater wall. Taking all the inventory from the boxes, he folded them to perfection, using a clipboard to ensure that every sweater was exactly the same width (this was before the folding boards of today). The results were striking. Managers from departments all over the store brought their teams over to observe this sweater wall and establish a new set of standards for the store.

When then-Bloomingdale’s President Marvin Traub did a walk-through of the store prior to opening day, he stopped in the men’s department and stood for a minute in silence. Nerves were on full alert as everyone waited with bated breath for Traub to speak. “Who did this?” he asked with an alarming sound in his voice. “Who is responsible for this sweater wall?” All heads turned to the long-haired young man standing off to the side by his Saturdays’ Generation post — and who fully expected to head home in about five minutes. Instead, Traub approached Cohen, extended his hand and said, “This is what Bloomingdale’s is all about! Who are you?”

Cohen then spent the next decade working his way up from parttime salesperson to merchandise manager in men’s, women’s and even children’s — but throughout, he was still known by Traub as “SG Man” (Saturday’s Generation). From that sweater wall extraordinaire in Virginia to roller skating contests down the signature “b-way” in the Manhattan store, Cohen made his career as a true merchant. His goal was to make the retail experience “like no other” and instilled that philosophy in others that he trained.

Taking the Next Base

Running out of growth opportunities at Bloomingdale’s after having been promoted so often and at such a young age, Cohen sought to move on from retail. He found his way to working for designer Willi Smith. Once again, Cohen took on the task of reinventing a business and industry by taking Willi Wear from a Junior resource to creating looks to grow with

its customer rather than introduce the line to new customers every few years. He partnered with Norma Kamali, Leon Max and other businesses to create a new department for young women seeking contemporary looks. Utilizing his Bloomingdale’s connections, this group of brands developed the new business of Contemporary Sportswear, “Young East Sider” (YES) at Bloomingdales. Other department stores followed suit, and a whole new market was launched.

Cohen had a few other successes in the manufacturing side of the apparel business, such as president of Stanley Blacker Sportswear and the launch of Adrienne Vittadini men’s and women’s sport, leading him to partner with some colleagues from Bloomingdale’s several years later. This partnership bought out several chains of specialty stores, jewelry, accessories, athletic sportswear and even hosiery stores from coast to coast. This national specialty retail experience in mall-based and urban locations helped round out Cohen’s portfolio and understanding of retail, big and small.

Unretiring

“Retiring at age 40 was tough for me,” Cohen admitted. Selling his marketing company that he founded with his partner and close friend from Bloomingdales, he realized after six months that retirement wasn’t for him. He needed to stay engaged. He formed a marketing company that once again transformed the industry. He created what he called “Brand Extensions” — taking big name brands and building products that were adjacent to the brand’s essence. For example, automobile companies design and build cars, but what do they know about accessories? Cohen would have his team design, build and, for some companies, even distribute their branded products outside of their core business to function as great advertising and create a lifestyle brand rather than a one-dimensional brand. This elevated the brand licensing business to a new level.

Success in the marketing business led Cohen to exploring a new path. Answering an ad in the local paper, Cohen began working for a company, NPD, an amazing data resource. When he started at NPD, he found himself looking at the wealth of information and seeking a better way to collect it and deliver it. Within weeks of accepting this part-time position, he was promoted to the co-president of the apparel division after writing a letter to the CEO that outlined some of his ideas to progress the company.

48 | FM JANUARY 2023 mannpublications.com
credit NPD Group
Photo

With amazing teamwork, NPD transformed the collection of selling information from mail-in surveys and point-of-sale data to a more 21st century method of utilizing online consumer surveys to learn who the shoppers were, what they bought and how to project it up to represent the entire market. As the chief industry analyst, Cohen brought NPD to the forefront of retailers and manufacturing through delivering powerful industry data analysis to clients in a digital format. Learning how to take the data and turn it into actionable steps to grow the business became the key to making the data meaningful. So many businesses today use data, but what do they really do with it? Do they learn how to grow their business, what they missed as an opportunity? What more can they do to service their customers? Having the sales data from not only your own business but from the rest of your market and beyond can help one grow their business. Learning how to use data to understand the shifts and opportunities in the market is not as obvious as one would think.

Cohen and his team educated the market through trade shows and the media, appearing frequently on morning shows and business channels. NPD became the standard to report on how the retail industry was performing and the best resource for general merchandise industries. From the Wall Street Journal, The NY Times, CNBC and Bloomberg News, Cohen found a way to help elevate the awareness of successes and opportunities for businesses and investors alike. He has written multiple books on consumer behavior and market research, including “Why Consumers Do What They Do” and “Buy Me! New Ways to Get Consumers to Buy Your Products.” He has given guest lectures at several universities, including the Wharton School of Business at University of Pennsylvania.

Merging and Re-emerging

Today, NPD has partnered with Information Resources Inc. (IRI) to make the consumer picture even more clear by merging its information on general merchandise retail sales with consumer packaged goods, food and beverage.

“Making the retail community smarter with the complete view has become so important today. Just look at how much of an impact retail overall has on consumer spending today,” said Cohen. “As prices elevate at record levels for food and beverage, we find the consumer making trade-offs for general merchandise. Understanding just how much the consumer has changed since pandemic-lifestyle consumption patterns have emerged and are ever evolving remains the key to success.”

Helping clients to understand the opportunities so that they can adapt to the challenges of the future has become his latest pathway to success. You will find Cohen mining through the data, working with great teammates, finding storylines and, ever so importantly, speaking in stores to consumers and staff to learn just what works and what does not. Helping clients learn what they need to know and what they don’t know has made Cohen one of the most sought-after researchers in retail. No one can predict the future in retail, but with the data at hand, an understanding of the consumer and a creative mind, finding growth is a valuable tool all retailers and manufacturers need, making research-based predictions even that much more relevant. How will retail perform, transform and reform as we navigate the next dynamic in retail where 2023 will establish a whole new set of paradigms for businesses and consumers?

COVER FEATURE
Photo credit ??

DOLCE&GABBANA X MYTHERESA

LAUNCHES AN EXCLUSIVE SKI COLLECTION

Luxury

for women, which became available globally from November 23, 2022.

their 7th exclusive

collection

By mixing Dolce&Gabbana’s beloved zebra print and graphic DG logo in new color nuances of white, black and burgundy with high-tech fabrics, the new collection presents creations that combine aesthetics and functionality. Perfect for vacations in the mountains, the exclusive designs work as high-performance ski wear while also being just as suitable for an après-ski city stroll.

The exclusive collection comprises technical overalls featuring the zebra print, puffer jackets in jacquard with the Dolce&Gabbana logo, turtleneck tops in printed technical fabric, technical nylon trousers with logo details as well as snow accessories such as hats, gloves, snowboards, skies and ski poles, printed helmets, trekking boots, belt bags, backpacks and goggles with the Dolce&Gabbana logo.

50 | FM JANUARY 2023 mannpublications.com
online retailer Mytheresa and Italian fashion house Dolce&Gabbana collaborated on Photos courtesy of Mytheresa

ABOUT MYTHERESA

Mytheresa is one of the leading global luxury fashion e-commerce platforms shipping to over 130 countries. Founded as a boutique in 1987, Mytheresa launched online in 2006 and offers ready-to-wear, shoes, bags and accessories for womenswear, menswear and kidswear. In 2022, Mytheresa expanded its luxury offering to home décor and lifestyle products with the launch of the category “Life.” The highly curated edit of over 200 brands focuses on true luxury brands such as Bottega Veneta, Burberry, Dolce&Gabbana, Gucci, Loewe, Loro Piana, Moncler, Prada, Saint Laurent, Valentino and many more. Mytheresa’s unique digital experience is based on a sharp focus on high-end luxury shoppers, exclusive product and content offerings, leading technology and analytical platforms as well as high quality service operations.

The Dolce&Gabbana x Mytheresa exclusive ski collection for womenswear launched globally within a dedicated editorial story directed by Mytheresa Chief Creative Officer Julian Paul, photographed by Bella Lieberberge and featuring model Issa Lish.

ABOUT DOLCE&GABBANA

Established in 1985, Dolce&Gabbana is an international leader in the fashion and luxury goods sector. The founders, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, have always been the creative and stylistic source of all the brand’s activities as well as the drivers behind the development strategies.

The group creates, produces and distributes high-end clothing, leather goods, footwear, accessories, jewelry and watches. The brand is present in the prêt-à-porter segment with Men’s, Women’s and Children’s Collections. In 2021, Dolce&Gabbana launched Dolce&Gabbana Casa, a homeware line dedicated to furniture and furnishing complements. The following year, the company announced the creation of Dolce&Gabbana Beauty with direct control of the manufacture, sales and distribution of its fragrance and make-up products. Since 2012, the brand has developed the Alta Moda project which further expanded into Alta Sartoria, Alta Gioielleria and Alta Orologeria Collections.

mannpublications.com JANUARY 2023 FM | 51
FEATURES
Photo courtesy of Mango

Mango Continues U.S. Expansion with Lincoln Road Store

Mango, one of Europe’s leading fashion groups, is continuing to expand in the United States with the opening of a new 430-square-meter (4,628-squarefoot) store at 1036 Lincoln Road in Miami, one of the busiest shopping streets in the country.

“The opening of this new store marks a starting point for Mango’s expansion in the state of Florida and a major step forward in our strategic goals for international expansion and consolidating our brand presence in the United States, one of the most important fashion markets in the world,” said Daniel López, Mango’s global expansion director.

With the opening of this new store, which stocks the Woman and Man lines, Mango presents its menswear line for the first time to its customers in the state of Florida, following the positive results posted in New York during the first few months of the year.

The architectural project of this new store has been conceived to generally have a low environmental impact. In the creation of the space, the existing structure has been respected, and a second life has been given to the floors, ceilings, lighting and installations.

T he opening of the Lincoln Road store marks a starting point for the expansion plan the company will implement in the next few months to consolidate its brand in the heart of Florida. To achieve this, Mango plans to open three new stores, which will be located in Florida’s main shopping centers, allowing the company to close the year with at least 10 stores in the United States, as well as online sales via mango.com, Nordstrom and Macy’s.

In November, the company will extend its presence in Florida with a new store in Aventura Mall in Miami, one of the 10 largest shopping centers in the United States. The new store, which has a selling space of over 4,300 square feet, will stock the Woman line.

In addition to Aventura Mall, Mango opened a new store with a selling space of nearly 4,100 square feet in the Florida Mall shopping center, located near Orlando international airport and the Walt Disney World Resort theme park. In December another store with a selling space of 2,800 square feet will debut in the Miami International shopping center, located close Miami International Airport.

In 2023, the company will continue to grow in Florida with new stores in cities such as Boca Raton, as well as extending its presence towards the west of the country with new store openings in Georgia, Texas and California.

Mango’s goal is to reach 2024 with approximately 40 stores in the United States and for the country to become one of the group’s top five markets in terms of sales. The Barcelona, Spain-based company also is increasing its online presence in the U.S. In the first nine months of this year, Mango’s e-commerce channel has increased its presence in the American market and now accounts for over half of the company’s sales in the country, and is forecast to represent 70% of turnover by 2024.

Mango in the United States

Mango has been present in the United States since 2006. After the opening of its 22,600-square-foot flagship store on New York City’s Fifth Avenue, the company now has eight stores in the country, among them its stores in New York’s Roosevelt Field and SoHo district; in the Menlo Park and American Dream shopping centers, both in New Jersey and the Dadeland shopping center in Miami, Florida, as well as two stores in Puerto Rico.

The company strengthened its commitment to the North American market in late 2017 with the refurbishment of the SoHo store and its store in the American Dream shopping mall, which reopened recently following a comprehensive refurbishment.

JANUARY 2023 FM |

Bringing you the latest breakthroughs in software, I.T. and fashion technology. From creative solutions to insights from experts, we are the source for all things fashion tech.

THE FASHION MANNUSCRIPT PRESENTS: TECHWEAR

NEW YEAR, NEW TECH TRENDS

56 | FM JANUARY 2023 mannpublications.com TECHFEATURES

If you’re anything like me—a savvy shopper indelibly on the hunt for great gadgets that can be bought online with all of the comfort and convenience e-Tail affords—you can probably relate that finding unique, worthy and especially “ah-inducing” items can take a tremendous amount of time and effort. So in the spirit of easing and expediting your shopping escapades, here is a cross-section of tech product picks that can all be purchased within just a few keystrokes.

The Stylish Ivy Health Tracker Bracelet from Bellabeat

Bellabeat’s Ivy Health Tracker is one of the top wearables on the market specifically designed and engineered for women. It conveniently doubles as an elegant statement bracelet. Named as one of TIME Magazine’s Best Inventions of 2022 and winner of the Muse Design Award, Bellabeat’s Ivy Health Tracker monitors a woman’s daily routine and her body’s bio-responses, and correlates the data with her menstrual cycle, pregnancy and other key data points. These all help contribute to the wearer’s complete understanding of their selfcare effectiveness and overall health, including hormonal balance, moods and symptoms. This versatile device is available in six colors, including jet black, snow white, blush rose gold, blush silver, garden jet black and garden rose gold.

Volo Beauty Hair Products

It’s time to cut the cord on blow-drying. VOLO Beauty is introducing an easier way to dry your locks with its salon-quality VOLO Go Cordless Dryer. The VOLO Go is a portable hair dryer that is three-times as energy-efficient as a traditional hair dryer thanks to the industry’s most innovative infrared heat technology. And if that wasn’t exciting enough, the VOLO Go’s quartz infrared bulb delivers radiant heat that is extremely gentle on the hair—helping it to dry quickly and efficiently by penetrating each strand of hair so the result is always soft and smooth. The brand’s unique charging station is low profile, so it can easily fit on a countertop or vanity, and includes a subtle accessory dish and USB port to charge other devices. But drying your hair doesn’t always start with the blow dryer. The VOLO Hero Hair Towel is made with its plush, Nanoweave material that is gentle, absorbent and proven to decrease hair drying time by 50%.

Bombay Hair’s Styling Tools

Good hair means a good day—at least, that’s Bombay Hair’s mantra. The company was founded with the mission to offer the best in hair extensions and hair styling tools at a revolutionary price. The brand offers a variety of curling wands, curling irons, flat irons and styling kits to round out its catalog, boasting styling tools made from various precious metals so they can provide long-lasting

performance. Bombay Hair’s 5-in-1 Curling Wand Set landed on “Oprah’s Favorite Things” 2021 List—making it possible to master salon-style from the comfort of home. The item features five interchangeable barrels of varying sizes, a heat resistant glove and two clips for easy handling. The tourmaline barrels heat up in seconds and range in temperatures from 170- to 450-degrees. Another top-selling product is Bombay Hair’s Hair Dryer. The AC salon-style motor lasts three-times longer than conventional DC motors, giving users the power of a whopping 1875-watts of “oomph.”

NOMATIC Vacuum Travel Bag 2.0

The experts at NOMATIC known for designing bags for adventurous travels and everyday commutes recently launched the Navigator Lite Collection. Designed for daily use, the gear includes function-focused minimalistic features to carry what you need—nothing more, nothing less. The Navigator Lite collection is comparable to the company’s larger Navigator Line, adhering to the same premium design hallmarks that have made NOMATIC a go-to source for quality slings and backpacks, though now are approximately 20% lighter. The new-and-improved Vacuum Bag 2.0 is an updated version of their original vacuum bag, with two sizes to choose from that are designed to fit perfectly within all of NOMATIC’s travel bags and packs. The durable, water-resistant materials deliver a better experience overall. They added a compression zipper, an upgraded vent and longer straps, allowing even more compression.

OCLEAN’s X Pro Elite Smart Electric Toothbrush

One of the smartest brushes on the block, the X Pro Elite Smart Electric Toothbrush by OCLEAN boasts a battery life of up to 35 days and Qi Quick Charge technology, enabling it to fully charge in just 3.5 hours. With unprecedented breakthroughs in functionality and style that earned it the Good Design Award, the X Pro Elite features WhisperClean technology certified by Quiet Mark. This allows the device to emit at an ultra-quiet 45dB when operating at maximum power, compared to the 55-65dB by competitors. Using OCLEAN’s AI algorithm, the X Pro Elite Smart Electric Toothbrush analyzes the way you brush your teeth, and even recommends methods to improve your technique using the dental model on its 0.96-inch touch screen display. The toothbrush’s high-powered motor spins at a maximum of 42,000 rpm to ensure you reach and detect difficult plaque and stain build-ups with ease. It also features DuPont Diamond Bristles to better protect gums and teeth enamel. The X Pro Elite’s stylish, yet elegant design is an industry first—with OCLEAN utilizing tactile craftsmanship on the exterior to create a stone-like feel in the hand and a natural and textured finish to seamlessly match any modern bathroom.

Interaxon Inc. Muse S Gen 2 Meditation

Headband

The Muse S Gen 2 Meditation Headband by Interaxon helps you fall asleep, stay that way and go back to sleep again if you awaken during the night. With the same features as the award-winning Muse 2, and the advanced EEG-sleep technology the company is known for, its updated, plush Muse S Gen 2 Meditation Headband now helps wearers learn the art of brain-powered meditation to get the sleep support you need to catch quality ‘Zs. Muse has been used in over 200 published studies. In a 2021 study led by Western University, Cambridge Brain Science, Hatch and Interaxon, participants using the garment showed a 20% improvement in the Pittsburgh Sleep Quality Index—providing an innovative, non-pharmaceutical solution for users to get the rest they need to boost their overall wellness. The technology detects the natural changes in your brain activity as you fall asleep and uses those to gently fade out your audio to cue your brain that it’s time to snooze. And if you wake in the night, Muse S uses the same Smart-Fade technology to automatically fade in the Digital Sleeping Pill content to guide you back to sleep again. Muse S also knows its customer-base isn’t one-size-fits-all. Unlock a rich content library of 500-plus meditations from renowned teachers, relaxation techniques, Go-toSleep soundscapes and in-depth courses, such as The Sleep Basics course by Dr. Shelby Harris, an expert in behavioral sleep medicine. The second generation of the Muse S headband also features improved signal quality for increased accuracy, enhanced battery performance and an upgraded fit to accommodate a wider range of head sizes.

Edifier’s True Wireless In-Ear Headphones

When you want to block out the world or become more aware of your surroundings, Edifier’s True Wireless Noise Cancellation In-Ear Headphones (model W240TN) will help you do it via its extraordinary active noise cancellation and ambient sound. These headphones utilize Al DNN’s call noise-cancellation technology to accurately pick up sounds, separate the noises and human voice and keep conversation crisp—allowing wearers to make calls even in noisy environments. Armed with coaxial dual dynamic drivers—a 10-mm woofer, a 6-mm tweeter and a wide soundstage, these buds are aimed at immersing listeners in their favorite music. Moreover, the ambient noise level can be adjusted through the Edifier Connect app, helping listeners instantly switch from immersed to alert without ever taking the earbuds out. Other impressive specs include Bluetooth 5.3, hybrid ANC and an IP55 water-and sweat-resistant rating. The headphones come with four different sizes of ear tips to suit unique ear shapes for a secure, stable fit and to maximize the overall product experience.

mannpublications.com JANUARY 2023 FM | 57 TECHFEATURES

CLO VIRTUAL FASHION OPENS NEW OFFICE IN PARIS TO SUPPORT FRENCH USER COMMUNITIES

CLO Virtual Fashion, the world’s leading provider of digital garment solutions, announced the opening of its new office in Paris, France, making this CLO’s third European office, after Munich and Madrid, and twelfth office globally.

This expansion will allow the company to provide superior services and hands-on support to the global user community and accelerate its growth in European markets.

“As a user-focused company, we aim to establish new offices in locations where our user communities are expanding and need more local support,” said Simon Kim, CEO of CLO Virtual Fashion. “Opening the Paris office was a natural reaction to our rapidly growing userbase in France, and it is very exciting to see our solutions being used and recognized by more and more users around the globe.”

CLO Virtual Fashion has developed a consolidated digital garment ecosystem that includes 3D fashion design software, a virtual collaboration and creation workspace and a fashion creatives community platform where thousands of true-to-life garment designs

are created, reviewed and showcased. Countless global fashion brands and film/ game production companies such as Hugo Boss, Mango, Adidas, Weta Digital and Ubisoft use CLO Virtual Fashion solutions, making CLO the unrivaled leader of the virtual garment industry.

Paris will be the newest office joining Seoul, Jeju, New York, Los Angeles, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Bangalore, Munich, Madrid, Tokyo and Sao Paulo.

“We are committed to expanding our presence globally to serve each and every one of our diverse users,” said Kim. “We always strive to closely engage with our users to meet their practical needs and make sure they experience the most creative and efficient workflow throughout the whole digitization journey.”

GERMANY’S TRINAMIX CREATES HANDHELD SOLUTION FOR TEXTILE RECOGNITION

German infrared sensing solution provider TrinamiX created a handheld solution for convenient identification of more than 15 textile types and compositions. TrinamiX publicly demonstrated this mobile device near infrared (NIR) spectroscopy solution for the first time at the ongoing Greener Manufacturing Show in Cologne and Plastics Recycling World Expo 2022 in Cleveland, U.S.

With this new NIR spectroscopy, even pieces made of material blends can easily be determined without damaging the material. The solution includes easy-to-use hardware with intelligent data analysis, an intuitive app for fast results and an extensive customer portal where in-depth analyses and reports can be created. This application will help recycling companies improve the quality of the recycling process by continuously checking incoming goods, the company said in a press release. Textile manufacturers also benefit from mobile textile recognition: they can use spot-measurement at goods receipt to check if the delivered textiles are in conformity with the ordered quality.

The solution supports a wide range of common textile grades used in clothing, furniture and household goods, such as acrylic, cotton, nylon 6/6.6, polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT), polyester, polypropylene (PP), silk, sisal, viscose and wool.

Textiles made from more than one material can also be identified. These include blends based on acrylic, cotton, nylon, polyester, silk or wool.

For special requirements of recycling carpets, TrinamiX has developed a dedicated application. It supports all common textile and plastic types used in carpets such as nylon 6 and nylon 6.6, polyacrylonitrile (PAN), polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polypropylene (PP), polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) and wool. The carpet application is the first one within TrinamiX’s mobile NIR spectroscopy solution to work offline.

“We are convinced that innovative solutions like ours make an important contribution towards a circular textile economy,” explained Adrian Vogel, business development manager at TrinamiX GmbH. “Sorting is a key requirement for recycling and is largely done manually.”

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TECHNOLOGY FASHION 411
Photo courtesy of CLO Virtual Fashion Photo courtesy of TrinamiX

UK’S EY JOINS SHOPIFY TO HELP ENTERPRISES DELIVER E-COMMERCE SERVICES

UK’s professional services organization Ernst & Young (EY) has announced its global alliance with Shopify, a provider of essential internet infrastructure for commerce, to help enterprise organizations maximize the potential of online commerce. The EY–Shopify Alliance, founded in Canada, aims to help enterprises activate and scale their e-commerce businesses.

EY e-commerce system integration services will be optimized for the implementation of Shopify for large-scale businesses, according to a press release by EY. The alliance synergizes Shopify’s speed-tovalue, rapidly deployable and customizable platform with the integration capabilities of EY across all relevant back-end systems, such as enterprise resource planning, customer relationship management (CRM), inventory management, fulfilment and financial reporting, back-end implementation and indirect taxes, as well as front-end customer experience.

EY and Shopify will train an initial cohort of 500 technical professionals around the world who will play a key role in bringing the unique strength of the alliance to enterprise customers at scale and add accelerated value to customers. Further support will be extended to those professionals by enabling up to 10,000 consultants through exposure to the Shopify platform.

The alliance will also establish a set of first-of-its-kind EY wavespace x Shopify centers. Leveraging the global network of EY wavespace innovation hubs (in locations such as New York, London, Toronto, Sydney and Singapore), these centers will bring the power of Shopify, EY teams and their collective clients together to create improved online customer experiences and solutions.

“Enterprises and online merchants are re-evaluating their e-commerce strategies to provide better, more relevant and frictionless experiences to meet high e-commerce customer expectations. This collaboration with Shopify will help brands enhance their customer journeys, explore new channels and ultimately grow their businesses—all while navigating the increasingly complex world of regulated retail,” said Kristina Rogers, EY global consumer leader.

“Modern enterprises operate in a complex environment where scale, speed and flexibility are needed to drive growth. We are excited to work with EY teams to bring the performance, customization and commerce expertise that our merchants know and love to more large enterprises around the world,” said Harley Finkelstein, president, Shopify.

YATSEN GLOBAL SHOWCASES GALENIC AND EVE LOM AT 5TH CIIE

Yatsen Global debuted the latest innovations of its premium technology-oriented skin care brand Galenic, and EVE LOM, a high-end natural SPA brand from the UK, at the 5th China International Import Expo (CIIE) now taking place in Shanghai. With the theme “Yatsen, A New Journey of Beauty Discovery,” the beauty group joined the event with the two overseas brands, simultaneously demonstrating its respect for the brands’ history and culture and empowering product innovation with technology research and development to recast them with vitality and strength.

On the morning of November 6, David Huang, founder, president and CEO of Yatsen Global Pte. Ltd was joined by Liu Fuxue, deputy director-general of the CIIE Bureau; Sohail Shaikh, sector director and minister counsellor, creative, consumer, learning and food industries, British Consulate-General Shanghai; Pierre Moussy, Economic Counsellor for the French Consuate in Shanghai, among other distinguished guests at the Yatsen Global opening ceremony.

David Huang said, “As a fast-growing global multibrand beauty platform, Yatsen Global has been committed to bringing the supreme beauty products of some of the world’s leading skincare brands and international innovative technologies back here, raising

their visibility and recognition of these brands in China, while helping them take a leap forward in the market.”

Eric Ducournau, CEO of Pierre Faber Group, also expressed his congratulations via video, explaining, “In the future, our company will continue to work with Galenic Laboratories to develop more high-performing skincare products with precise and cutting-edge formulation technologies, in a move to help women of all ages solve their specific skin concerns.”

At the event, EVE LOM Radiance Repair Retinol Serum made its world debut during the CCTV live broadcast. With the concept of creating a healthy

anti-aging formulation, the EVE LOM Radiance Repair Retinol Serum, gentle-yet-potent, plumps and hydrates skin, delivering a firmer, smoother and more even complexion over time. Galenic also showcased its Galenic Cosmeceutique Kit [N°1] Vitamine C and the new product Galenic Couture Secret D’Excellence Serum, alongside other outstanding products at the booth. Yatsen Global’s participation in the event with EVE LOM and Galenic reflected the importance the firm attaches to these two brands, as well as its strategic vision of establishing a global and multi-brand presence.

Yatsen Global announced that it will attend the 6th CIIE in 2023 and signed contracts at the opening ceremony, making it the first exhibitor to enter a strategic partnership during the event.

Yatsen Global will continue to develop a global muti-brand portfolio, allowing more brands to retain their unique DNA while relying on cutting-edge technologies and Yatsen Global’s brand operation capabilities to push the boundaries of brand development, renew their vitality in the Chinese market and achieve new, quality growth in the long term.

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TECHNOLOGY
FASHION 411
Photo courtesy of Yatsen Global

In October 2022, the New York Attorney General’s Office announced that it fined the parent company of fast-fashion ecommerce brands $1.9 million for its mishandling of a 2018 data breach. The data breach involved the theft of nearly 50 accounts and it was determined that the company failed to properly protect consumer data and failed to adequately disclose the extent of the breach to consumers. This is just one example of the vast potential financial implications of cyber crime for the fashion apparel industry.

Developing a truly resilient organization means considering even newer and ever-evolving risks like cyber security. While increased reliance on technology has helped improve operations across industries, it has also increased cyber risk, leading to the compromise of clients’ financial data, costly recovery and potential damage to your reputation. In 2022, the average cost of a data breach in the United States rose to over twice the global average at $9.44 million according to IBM’s latest study. In addition, it found that for 83% of companies, it’s not if a data breach will happen, but when.

When detecting, responding to and recovering from threats, acting faster is better. When addressing concerns about your operation’s online safety, the first step is to acknowledge the existing cybersecurity risks that expose an organization to a hacker’s malicious attacks. Some of the most common cyber risks and threats for businesses are:

Malware:

Malware is malicious software that cybercriminals insert into a company’s web pages or web files after they’ve penetrated the business’s site. Bad actors then use malware to steal sensitive corporate data, including customers’ personal information.

SAFEGUARDING

YOUR FASHION & APPAREL

ORGANIZATION FROM

RISKS

COMMON CYBER SECURITY

Malware can also redirect a company’s web pages to other sites and insert pop-up ads onto a company’s web pages or website. Common malware examples are viruses, trojan viruses, ransomware and spyware.Recent malware attacks have exfiltrated data in mass amounts. Removing malware requires constant network scanning so hackers can be identified quickly and remove malware from the company’s network.

Ransomware:

Ransomware is malicious software that gains access to sensitive information within a system, encrypts the information so the user cannot access it and then demands a financial payout for the data before it is released. The first step in a ransomware attack is infection, which occurs when a user visits a security-compromised website. Ransomware is typically part of a phishing scam; by clicking a disguised link, the user downloads the ransomware. Ransomware infections are specifically focused on users with higher levels of permissions, such as administrators, to inject malicious code.

Once the code has been delivered and executed on a system, either locker ransomware shuts users out of a system or crypto ransomware encrypts data using advanced mathematical encryption keys. In almost every case, the user or owner of a targeted system will receive instructions on how to regain access. A ransom is clearly presented, along with preferred denomination and payment method, and sometimes a deadline for payment.

Phishing: Phishing is a cybercrime in which a target is contacted by email, telephone or text message by someone posing as a legitimate institution to lure individuals into providing sensitive data such as personally identifiable information, banking and credit card details and passwords. The phished information is then used to access important accounts and can result in identity theft and financial information. Other forms of phishing include vishing or voice phishing, smishing or SMS phishing and whaling or email purportedly from one of a company’s senior figures.

Data breaches:

A data breach exposes confidential, sensitive or protected information to an unauthorized person who then views or shares the files in the data breach without permission. Individuals, businesses and governments can be at risk of a data breach and put others at risk if they are not protected. Data breaches happen most often because of weaknesses in technology or in user behavior and are not always caused by an outside hacker. Serious damage is possible if a hacker steals and sells Personally Identifiable Information or corporate intellectual data for financial gain or to cause harm. Common vulnerabilities targeted in data breaches include weak and stolen credentials, compromised assets, payment card fraud, third-party access and the use of personal mobile devices in the workplace.

Best practices to avoid a data breach include patching and updating software, high-grade encryption for sensitive data, upgrading devices when a manufacturer no longer supports software, enforcing “bring your own device” security policies, enforcing strong credentials and multifactor authentication, and educating employees on best security practices and ways to avoid socially engineered attacks.

Working with a knowledgeable insurance specialist, who understands these emerging risk and compliance exposures and negotiates coverage that is customized towards your needs, is key in procuring protection and preventing additional disruption to your business.

Frank DeLucia currently serves as Senior Vice President of HUB International Northeast, a leading full-service global insurance brokerage. With over three decades of experience, Frank specializes in building insurance and risk management programs for the real estate and apparel industries and is a long time active member of the Fashion Service Network (FSN). Frank can be reached by phone at 212-338-2395 or at frank.delucia@ hubinternational.com. For more information on HUB, please visit www.hubinternational.com.

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Hello, 2023! The end of the year brought a flurry of deals and openings, with plans for major expansions and some interesting new concepts. It’s a great way to kick off the new year.

All About Apparel and Accessories

Irish-based value fashion chain Primark continues its U.S. expansion with three stores to open in the New York City metropolitan area by year-end: Roosevelt Field Mall in Garden City, Jamaica Avenue in Queens and City Point in Brooklyn. Primark will then have five stores in the region. Primark has announced plans to reach 60 stores in the country by 2026. Topdrawer, a Japanese/American company known for luxury leather goods, bags, house shoes, fine paper, premium pens, Japanese goods and other nomadic tools, signed a lease for its first store in Manhattan at KPG’s 155 Spring St., the real estate firm announced. Lids has taken its LidsHatDrop concept from clicks to bricks, opening a physical shop in Jamaica, Queens. The store sells products from celebrity and athlete collaborations. Vancouver, Canada-based backpack specialist Herschel Supply has opened its first U.S. store at 138 Fifth Ave.

If We Do Say So Ourselves

Showfields, which dubs itself “The Most Interesting Store in the World,” has opened its previously announced new lifestyle concept House of Showfields at 187 Kent Ave. in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. The Stoop is curated with pet-centric brands such as Whistle and The Wildest, while

DEB’S RETAIL DISH AND DEALS: NEW YEAR, NEW STORES

The Foyer features an immersive art installation from Ksenia Salion. The Dining Room includes table settings from Casafina and Omakase Berries from Oishii. Over a dozen wellness and self-care brands are highlighted in The Courtyard. Shoppers can find apparel from Never Fully Dressed, tights from Sheertex, shoes from Greats and influencerowned Simihaze Beauty in the Style Zone.

Just Gems

National jewelry brand Pandora has signed a lease at 112 West 34th St., announced Empire State Realty Trust. All retail spaces at the building are fully leased as Pandora will occupy a store previously leased to Swatch.

Home Sweet Home Sunday Citizen, the direct-to-consumer bedding, home and loungewear retailer, opened its first brickand-mortar shop at 42 Crosby St. in SoHo. The store acts as a showroom for the brand’s “radically soft” products, as well as a destination for wellness workshops that support its “home, body and soul” initiative. Organic bedding maker Avocado Green Mattress has its newest experience center at 57 North 6th St. in Brooklyn. The store showcases Avocado’s natural, eco-luxury mattresses and furniture, as well as loungewear from its sustainable sleepwear line and clean skin and body products.

Wining and Dining

Brooklyn’s Sixpoint Brewery will open at 200 Liberty St. at Brookfield Place. Yet another taphouse, Brooklyn Brewery is leaving its location in Williamsburg in 2024 to locate at 1 Wythe Avenue in Greenpoint.

From B to A

Just in time for the holidays, BJ’s Wholesale Club opened its newest club at 300 Willowbrook Mall in Wayne, New Jersey, on November 18. The

retailer will now have a total of 234 U.S. clubs. The new club has a BJ’s Gas location on site. Just after Black Friday, but still ready for plenty of gift shopping, Apple debuted at American Dream in East Rutherford, New Jersey, in early December.

That’s Entertainment

Golftec is coming to New York City with its instruction and club-fitting services at 10 East 40th St.

Around the U.S.

Mission-driven kitchenware brand Our Place has opened its first-ever retail store at 1344 Abbot Kinney Blvd. in the heart of the brand’s hometown, Los Angeles. Our Place launched in 2019 with the goal of bringing people together through the power of home cooking. Chipotle Mexican Grill opened its 500th restaurant with a Chipotlane, the brand’s digital order drive-thru pick-up lane, in Louisville, Kentucky. Modern golf entertainment leader Topgolf is bringing its technology-driven experience to Greater Boston, with construction efforts underway in Canton. It will be the first venue to serve the commonwealth of Massachusetts, projected to open in late 2023. Moose Knuckles brings its luxury apparel from Montreal, Canada to Lenox Square in Atlanta, Georgia. The experiential concept is the brand’s 11th store in the U.S., reports Women’s Wear Daily.

Buy the Book

After closing its East 86th Street store in the early days of the pandemic, Barnes & Noble is coming back to the Upper East Side at 1556 Third Ave.

Debra Hazel

Debra Hazel Communications North Las Vegas, NV (201)618-5247

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Here comes Purim, the most joyous festival on the Jewish calendar. Purim is a fantastic celebration for young and old. We hope this guide will motivate, inspire and enhance your merriment. It contains the Story of Purim, its messages, instructions for the holiday customs and a great recipe for hamantashen. Please join a Megillah reading.

It all began in the city of Shushan of ancient Persia in the 4th century BCE. The Holy Temple in Jerusalem was destroyed and the Jewish nation was conquered and dispersed in foreign lands. King Achashverosh hosted a series of lavish royal feasts in his palace which went on for 180 days. Every citizen living in Shushan was invited. The Jews too participated in this great party.

THE HOLIDAY OF PURIM TAKES PLACE ON TUESDAY MARCH

THE SIGNIFICANCE OF HANUKKAH

7, 2023

gathered the Jews, especially the children.

Hanukkah (November 29 to December 6, 2021), the festival of lights, recalls the victory more than 2,100 years ago of a materially weak, but spiritually strong, Jewish people over the mighty forces of a ruthless enemy that had captured the Holy Land, threatening to engulf the land and its people in darkness. The miraculous victory culminated with the dedication of the Holy Temple in Jerusalem and the rekindling of the menorah, which had been desecrated and extinguished by the enemy.

They fasted, repented and prayed to G-d to save them. Queen Esther received a message from Mordechai to plead before the king for her people. Esther feared entering the King’s presence without permission but saw no other choice. She undertook a three day fast of penitence and called upon the whole Jewish People to do the same. Miraculously, when she approached the king, she found favor in his eyes.

more than a reminder of ancient miracles — they are meant to provide illumination in our contemporary daily lives. In fact, the Hanukkah miracles of old are re-enacted in our observance today. That is one reason why we say, in the second blessing recited over the Hanukkah lights, “Blessed are You … who wrought miracles for our ancestors — in those days, at this time.” By reflecting upon the significance of the Hanukkah miracles, we can see with ever-increasing clarity the miraculous dimensions of those events in our own time.

3. Send gifts of food (called Mishloach Manot) on Purim day. We celebrate Jewish unity and friendship. We send packages containing at least two different kinds of ready-to-eat food (like hamantashen and fruit) to at least one friend.

which signifies that our purpose is to illuminate the darkness of the world, until the time when, as the Prophet says, “The world will be filled with the knowledge of G-d.” It may be difficult to perceive G-dliness in our everyday lives, but Hanukkah reminds us of G-dliness even in our darkest moments: that the light of knowledge can shine brightly and that redemption is at hand if we will kindle just one more lamp.

4. Give gifts to the poor. Giving Tzedakah (charity) is a particularly special mitzvah on Purim. Give charity to at least two needy individuals on Purim day. Or place money in a charity box.

The Ultimate Miracle

Redemption, Against All Odds

Esther exposed Haman’s plot to kill her and her people. Haman was hung and the Jewish people were saved. This is a story of great courage and self-sacrifice of Esther, Mordechai and the whole Jewish nation. While the terrifying decree hung over them, not a single Jew chose to convert, even to save his life.

Together, the people heeded Mordechai and returned wholeheartedly to the Torah, strengthening their faith and observance. In this merit, they were able to rise up and destroy their enemy and give us the new holiday of Purim.

Hamantashen Recipe: Preheat oven to 350. Beat eggs and sugar. Add the next five ingredients and mix well. Divide the dough into four parts. Stretch it on a floured surface about 1/2 cm thick and cut out circles with a cup. Fill each one with jelly and seal the corners. Lay them on a greased pan. Brush with beaten egg. Bake for 20 minutes.

In the time of King Antiochus, the fate of the Jewish people seemed grim indeed. The vastly outnumbered Maccabees were up against the world’s most sophisticated military machine, and many of their own brethren were all too wiling to forsake their heritage and assimilate into the Hellenistic culture. It was the proverbial “darkest hour before the dawn.”

4 eggs

1 cup sugar 1/2 cup oil

Today, the Hanukkah lights have special relevance. Many among us despair ever witnessing the dawn of the reception, and after nearly 2,000 years, it may seem that the cold, hard realities of exile have all but erased our ageold faith in the coming of Moshiach to lead us toward a perfect world. But, Hanukkah reminds us that G-d grants redemption in the blink of an eye, and that the light of G-dliness can brighten even the darkest night.

1 Tbsp lemon juice and lemon rind from half a lemon

Intoxicated with days of endless drinking, King Achashverosh commanded his Queen, Vashti, to appear before his guests wearing only her crown.

Queen Vashti refused and was executed. Achashverosh, who needed a new wife, had all the beautiful daughters of the country brought to the palace. A Jewish queen, Esther, was chosen against her will and hid her faith. Her uncle Mordechai uncovered an assassination plot and saved King Achashverosh from death.

Lighting the Hanukkah menorah is a symbol of the triumph of freedom over oppression and spirit over matter — a timely message, for the forces of darkness are ever-present today. As our sages said, “A little light dispels a lot of darkness.” The Hanukkah lights remind us in the most obvious way that illumination begins at home with one’s self and family. As the lights are kindled in growing numbers from day to day, so much we increase and intensify the light of the Torah and Mitzvot in the everyday experience.

Haman, a descendant from the Jew-hating tribe of Amalek, devised a scheme to annihilate every Jew in the kingdom in a single day. Mordechai, a descendant of King Saul, sensed the danger, and identified it as a wakeup call from G-d. He

The Maccabees were no match for the most powerful Greek army in the world at that time — but with their strong belief and determination, the Maccabees were eventually victorious and declared independence. Upon entering the Holy Temple, they found a disgraceful mess of idols, forbidden foods and broken pottery. The temple’s six-foot menorah had to be lit with pure, untampered olive oil — and since the Greeks had deliberately defiled the oil, the Maccabees searched until they found a small jug of pure oil hidden with the seal of the High Priest. Miraculously, the oil, which should have burned for one day, lasted eight days.

Purim means “lotteries” in the Persian language. The name commemorates the lots that Haman cast to choose the day most suitable for the annihilation of all the Jews.

The 4 Mitzvot of Purim: 1. Listen to the Megillah reading on Monday night, March 6, and Tuesday morning, March 7. When Haman’s name is mentioned, twirl your graggers and stamp your feet to drown out the sound of his evil name.

Yet, sure enough, with the dawn and with G-d’s help came the miraculous, unprecedented victory. Throughout the ages, Hanukkah has signified the miraculous triumph of the weak over the strong, the pure over the impure and the righteous over the wicked. Whenever the integrity of the Jewish people is under siege, no matter how dark the night, the Hanukkah lights proclaim that deliverance is near.

1 teaspoon vanilla 5 cups sifted flour

Hanukkah Gelt

2 teaspoons baking powder 1 egg to brush jelly for the filling

On Hanukkah, it is traditional to give children Hanukkah gelt (money). This custom can add to the children’s happiness and festive spirit for the holiday, and affords the opportunity to give them positive reinforcement for exemplary behaviors.

For more information: contact your local Rabbi or feel free to call Rabbi David Laine, Director of Friends of Chabad Vocational Schools. To read the story at length, please visit Chabad. org

The Origin of the Dreidel

2. Eat a festive meal which can include hamantashen, a 3 cornered cookie to symbolize Haman’s 3 cornered hat.

Spreading the Light

The menorah is lit either in the doorway or in a front window so that it can be seen outside in the street. This teaches that it is not enough to bring light into our own private domain, but that we must spread the light and warmth of the Torah to the outer environment as well.

Rabbi David Laine Director of Friends of Chabad Vocational Schools (Tel) 718-773-5875 cvsisrael@aol.com

Brighter and Brighter

Each night of Hanukkah, we add another light to the menorah until all eight lamps shine on the final night. With every added flame, we go from strength to strength in deepening our commitment to the values and traditions of our Jewish way of life.

When the Greeks decreed that the study of the Torah was a crime punishable by death or imprisonment, the children defiantly studied in secret — and when the Greek patrols were spotted, the children would pretend to be playing an innocent game of dreidel. The dreidel is a four-sided spinning top, which is also called a s’vivon in Hebrew. On each side of the top a Hebrew letter: “Nun,” “Gimmel,” “Hay” and “Shin.” The letters represent the phrase, “Nes Gadol Hayah Sham,” which means, “A great miracle happened there.”

Wishing you a happy Hanukkah! May this Festival of Lights bring blessings upon you and all of your loved ones for happiness and health, and usher a better world for all of humankind.

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During lockdown, we really had no choice but to stare at our screens all day; our eyes could only detach from the blue light for the occasional walk or sleep. During this time, the metaverse seemed like a blossoming way to spend time, energy and money. The Fortnite video game consistently released collaborations with major brands and fashion houses, turning large profits. The same went for Minecraft, Second Life and Roblox. The Ethereum block chain-based digital world Decentraland saw major success with NFTs and Cryptocurrency in one space. Fashion week existed partially in the metaverse as brands were forced to get creative and embrace new media.

This metaphorical “third space” to exist that isn’t work or home in the era of Zoom calls and permanent sweatpants was needed, and the only avenue was online. Acclaimed British photographer and visionary Nick Knight stated, “There is a natural feeling of destabilization [with the metaverse], but surely that’s what fashion is about; it’s about showing people things that they previously had not seen and previously had not desired, but actually do want.”

While analysts saw the immersive digital world of the metaverse as the future of human interaction, the public’s response is underwhelming. According to a survey conducted in March 2022 by Morning Consult, only 36% of U.S. adults were interested in the metaverse, while a staggering 63% said they had heard “not much” or “nothing” about it. People joked that Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg’s “horizon worlds” wanted to create a digital heaven and make him God. People were eager to get back to real life and the idea of spending money on an outfit made of pixels rather than fabric lost its

MARKETING IN THE METAVERSE: IS IT WORTH THE INVESTMENT?

charm, especially during an economic recession.

A recent report by the Wall Street Journal illustrated the metaverse as cold, empty and difficult to navigate, with only 9% of the world’s population populated by more than 50 users. Though there are virtual designer worlds and clothing options, they are hard to find, and it is unclear how many people have purchased them. According to leaked memos from Facebook’s Meta published in The Verge, even Meta’s own employees were hesitant to adopt the technology and “don’t love it.” In December 2021, the company reduced its goal of 500,000 monthly users in its various digital worlds to 200,000 by October of 2022 and called its small user base “precious.” Users complain that they can rarely find others to interact with, which is meant to be the whole point of the metaverse in the first place. Fortnite hasn’t released any new fashion collaborations this year, while Roblox worlds are barely updated and may only see dozens of users on its busiest days.

On November 9, Mark Zuckerberg announced on Meta’s website his decision to “reduce the size of [the] team by about 13% and let more than 11,000 of our talented employees go” due to “macroeconomic downturn, increased competition and ads signal loss.” Zuckerberg concluded with a rare confession, “I got this wrong, and I take responsibility for that.”

The average consumer can barely describe what an NFT is, and during a time of economic uncertainty, the average consumer tends to eat at cheaper restaurants, purchase fewer durable goods, and take less vacations. I think “not purchasing digital art” falls into this list. According to data collected by The Ascent, the average NFT costs around $3,000. One could easily buy a real, physical designer item for that kind of money.

Because of this, reports such as Business of Fashion’s State of Fashion: Technology Report claim that it will take at least five years for even the most innovative brands to make meaningful revenue contributions with the metaverse. However, this prediction hasn’t stopped house name brands

from tossing their hat into the ring.

On November 23, Adidas released an NFT collection of digital wearables alongside an announcement that the metaverse is now an official area of business for the company. Erika WykesSneyd, vice president of Adidas Three Stripes Studios, compared this to Adidas’ initial branch from footwear into clothing, calling the new digital merchandise “the future archive for what comes next.” The collection is part of the Adidas Originals Into the Metaverse NFTs. The items are engineered to function across different gaming and virtual world environments, with capabilities to adapt to future developments as well.

The new Adidas launch is not available for the public to purchase; the option to access the collection was airdropped only to owners of the Adidas Originals Into the Metaverse NFTs in a capsule. Users who can access can choose to burn and randomly receive one of twelve digital designs. Adidas Originals Into the Metaverse NFTs, released in 2021, are on sale for the average price of $537, and the price has been steadily dropping for the past few months. As of November 30, Adidas sold 126 NFTs in just 7 days. This is not even a drop in the bucket for Adidas, which made $6.6 billion last quarter alone.

Other major brands integrating themselves into the metaverse include Burberry, who has its own virtual Minecraft world in the works. Nike recently released a Web3 project, and Prada has just released avatar designs for Meta.

Though interest in the metaverse has cooled down in the news, there is still hope for this potential digital utopia. It is still in its infancy and the options are limitless. Whether it comes through luxury brands, Mark Zuckerberg, NFTs, or hopefully an unexpected fourth option, the metaverse has the capability to change everything we know about interacting and consuming. Only time will tell.

Madalene Hartl, LIM College

Madalene.hartl@limcollege.edu 617.304.9513

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HOW SUSTAINABILITY DOMINATES CLIMATE, SOCIETY AND BUSINESS

and clothing and may supply American retailers.” Segran’s article continues to say that forced labor is connected to Western supply chains and consumers, as Xinjiang produces over 80% of China’s cotton and that the United States imports more than 30% of its apparel from China.

Even if a product isn’t imported into the United States directly from Xinjiang, it may contain fabrics or components made from the forced labor that happens in Xinjiang camps.

projects to control flooding by building new preventative structures and reinforcing existing facilities so that flooding from excessive rain cannot destroy any more communities.

Social Sustainability in The Apparel Industry

espite the beautiful department store windows on Wilshire Boulevard in Beverly Hills and Fifth Avenue in New York, an undercurrent of potential problems is pervading the fashion industry.

D“Sustainability” has been defined in several ways; the ability to maintain a process continuously over time, the ability to support a process or performance for the benefit of a group, or a political belief of humanity in general or a specific aspect of such a belief. It has also been used to support fashion apparel design and wearability. Some have broken down sustainability into the concepts of environmental, social and business matters.

Considering the social aspects of sustainability, one aspect to consider is apparel and the fabrics being used in manufacturing. Every year we see changes to what is new and different. But looking back over the years, not much has actually changed in styles for men but a great deal has changed in women’s styles, which leads to somewhat of a conclusion that fashion has experienced sustainability more than the other aspects of concern.

of corporate ethics in response to public concerns of long-term damage caused by a focus on shortterm profits. This view of responsibility encourages businesses to balance long-term benefits with immediate returns, and the goal of pursuing inclusive and environmentally sound objectives. This covers a broad array of possible practices. Cutting emissions, lowering energy usage, sourcing products from fair-trade organizations and ensuring their physical waste is disposed of properly and with a smaller carbon footprint would qualify as moves toward sustainability.”

Finally, in “The RealReal Sold me a $3,600 Fake: Here’s Why Counterfeits Slip Through Its Authentication Process” from Forbes in October 2019, Richard Kestenbaum wrote, “The thrift store business has gone big-time. What used to be a local, mom-and-pop business has been tech-enabled, allowing what were local inventories of unique items to be available worldwide. Fabricated by venture capital and private equity, the resale business (as it’s now known) has scaled up, handling thousands of items and hundreds of millions of dollars of product.”

In a report that appeared in MR magazine on October 23, 2019, Elizabeth Segran, author of an article originally from Fast Company, stated, “Slavery and indentured labor is widespread in the fashion industry.” She noted that the South China Morning Post reported that China experts have gone to Capitol Hill to explain to lawmakers that American apparel brands may be benefiting directly from coerced labor carried out by Uighurs, members of a Muslim ethnic minority living in the Xinjiang autonomous region of China.

Sustainability Addressed By Climate

Let’s consider the sustainability of the environment and climate. In recent months we have seen droughts, fires and floods in strengths that have not been witnessed in many decades. Some have even stated that the earth will be burned into nonexistence in our grandchildren’s lifetime. Even if such prognostications are not supported by scientific analysis, there is a growing demand for society at large to make efforts to prevent the chance of such an event happening. These environment-focused efforts can start by addressing the drought that parts of the country have experienced. We see that laws are being enacted to limit the use of water, to convert seawater to potable drinking water and to evaluate the current dams that accumulate and distribute water.

Her article stated, “The New York Times says that more than a million Uighurs have been forcibly held in camps and subject to political indoctrination. A United Nations human rights panel said that Uighurs were being detained in a ‘massive interment camp that is shrouded in secrecy. The Chinese government refers to these camps as ‘vocational training centers.’ New evidence has emerged that some of these Uighurs [are] being coerced to work in factories that make apparel

Where there is drought there tends to be forest fires, and the efforts we have seen to control them during the hotter months include watering the bases of large trees in California and building larger capacity, water-dropping helicopters and planes. There has also been the installation of electronic devices that can observe forest fires in beginning phases so that the spread of fires can be controlled or eliminated completely.

Controlling floods is another aspect of sustainability that has become a top priority and has created

Similarly, an article by Justin Scheck, Jon Emont and Alexandra Berzon in The Wall Street Journal, updated on October 23, 2019, entitled, “Amazon Sells Clothing From Factories Other Retailers Blacklist” stated that, “After a 2013 factory collapse that killed more than 1,100 people in Bangladesh, most of the biggest U.S. apparel retailers joined safety-monitoring groups that required them to stop selling clothing from factories that violated certain safety standards.” The authors then stated that Amazon didn’t join, and that, according to a Wall Street Journal investigation, the site today offers a steady stream of clothing from dozens of Bangladeshi factories that most leading retailers have said are too dangerous to allow into their supply chains.

However, what has been changed, consistent with environmental sustainability, is fabric. We have seen new fabrics on the market made from plants other than the traditional cotton and linen fabrics that have been used since the beginning of time. That protects the supply of cotton and linen fabrics, thus another concept of sustainability. Also recently introduced is a leather substitute made from mushroom roots that is used for purses, vests and shoes.

Sustainability’s Scale in Broader Business

As reported by Daniel Thomas Mollenkamp in his recent Investopedia article, “In 1983 the United Nations created the World Commission on Environment and Development to study the connection between ecological health, economic development and social equity. The commission, then run by former Norwegian prime minister Gro Harlem Brundtland, published a report in 1987 that has become the standard of defining sustainability development.”

Sustainability requires the setting of goals. As Mollenkamp described it, “Companies have also set sustainability goals such as a commitment to zero-waste packaging by a certain year, or to reduce overall emissions by a certain percentage. Many corporations have made such sustainability promises in recent years. For example, Walmart Stores, Inc. has pledged to reach zero emissions by 2040. Morgan Stanley has pledged netzero ‘financed emissions’ by 2050. Google has pledged to operate carbon-free by 2030.”

The Journal also found other apparel on Amazon made in Bangladeshi factories whose owners have refused to fix safety problems identified by two safety-monitoring groups, such as crumbling buildings, broken alarms, missing sprinklers and fire barriers. U.S. retailers such as Walmart, Target and Costco have agreed to honor bans imposed by these two groups, to have their supply chains inspected and to disclose to the groups the factories that supply them.

The article noted that Amazon has been expanding its efforts to encourage listings directly from suppliers in Bangladesh, some factories said, with company representatives attending seminars to teach factory owners how to sell on a website without middlemen.

Mollenkamp further explained, “In business contexts, sustainability refers to more than just environmentalism. Harvard Business School lists two ways to measure sustainable business practices: the effect a business has on the environment, and the effect a business has on society, with the goal of sustainable practice being to have a positive impact on at least one of those areas. Corporate sustainability emerged as a component

Kestenbaum explained that one of the keys to the RealReal’s success as an online resale business is authentication. He advised that there are a lot of fakes in the market, especially if the brands are high-end. Having an intermediary with expertise who vouches for authenticity is an enormous value-add for consumers because it often takes an expert to detect forgeries. At the RealReal, “copywriters” do the authentication. However, in spite of their efforts, fakes still get through.

When Kestenbaum bought a fake Christian Dior bag on the RealReal, it looked like the real thing, but when he consulted with an expert on the herringbone pattern, the fake bag was apparent from the real one. Thus, even the most reliable dealers can often get stuck with fakes.

And Mollenkamp commented on sustainability in energy generation, “The push for sustainability is evident in areas such as energy generation as well, where the focus has been on finding new deposits to outpace the drawdown on existing reserves. Some electricity companies, for example, now publicly state goals for energy generation from sustainable sources such as wind, hydropower and solar. Because these policies tend to generate public goodwill, some companies have been accused of ‘greenwashing,’ the practice of providing a false impression that makes a business seem more environmentally friendly than it is.”

In summing up all of the things that are looming in the background when apparel is purchased, the watchword must be “caution,” but few buyers have the patience and desire to do the thorough research to distinguish real from fake, how a garment is produced or whether it is made of fabric that can be dangerous when worn.

Benjamin S. Seigel, Esq. G & B Law, LLP bseigel@gblawllp.com 818-382-6200

Thus, we see from these few examples that “sustainability” has become an important word in our vocabulary, and has required us to give attention to many matters which we had previously taken for granted.

Benjamin S. Seigel, Esq. is of Counsel to the firm G&B Law, LLP in Encino, California. He specializes in matters related to the textile and apparel industries. He can be reached at bseigel@ gblawllp.com

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FASHION, LABOR, COUNTERFEITS & DANGEROUS CLOTHING
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The plus size market has become a phenomenon and a revolution over the past few years. We’ve certainly seen significant changes in the attitudes about clothing inclusivity in terms of brand communication, model selection, product offerings and the awareness of a movement that continues to strengthen. Walking through retail floors across the country, you can’t help but notice “missy” (smaller-size) mannequins alongside plus size. It feels like the movement is more than an emotional call; words are being put into action.

Understanding the Hurdles Typically, plus size launches can be challenging for three key reasons. First, particularly in the case of intimate apparel, there are issues of fit. Brands often scale up sizes and because of a lack of a standardized grading system, products do not perform as expected. Second, we have all been programmed for quick results and brands often do not give a new launch the time that it needs to be successful. For years, the plus size community has been programmed to not expect products that they want to be available in-store. It takes time to educate plus size consumers that the offerings exist. The third reason is marketing that falls short on timing and messaging.

Believing in the Opportunity Getting plus size right is an opportunity that cannot be missed. According to WWD, 67% of American women are size 14 or larger. The NPD Group reports that the women’s plus-size market was worth $113.8 billion, for the 12 months ending May 2021, and makes up approximately 19% of the entire U.S. women’s apparel sales.

The NPD new Inclusive Apparel Market Trends report announced that “after casual apparel, basics including bras, underwear and shapewear make up the largest share of apparel sold in plussize, at 27%, compared to 19% for the rest of the market.”

Winning products start with meeting the

OVERCOMING CHALLENGES IN PLUS SIZE LINGERIE AND MAKING IT AN EASIER WIN FOR RETAIL

expectations of customers. Every part of the bra has a function and understanding that helps create a product that will sell season after season. Cups that gape, bands that are too tight or cause flesh to spill over, slipping straps and wires that dig all disappoint customers. Plus size bras need to offer solutions like uplift in the cup to help lift the bust, no bounce solutions, back or side smoothing features and comfort bands.

Straps that are placed closer in on the shoulder help reduce strap slipping. Foam padded straps reduce digging in the skin for shoulder comfort. Wire-free styles can still offer the same support and uplift of wire bras. There are also innovative solutions like back smoother bras and light-lift foam pad underwire for shaping. Also, brands have to be shown materials that are sustainable, technologies that help the environment and lower costs, such as 3D sampling, and sizes that fit.

Think in Reverse to Go Forward

One of the biggest secrets to success in the plus size market is that it all starts with designing for plus sizes first. Then design for missy sizes. When you start with missy, the fabric works up to a certain size range, but doesn’t for plus size. Style lines get lost on plus size when missy is designed first because style lines are subjective. Make sure that all elements, including trims for example, have a purpose. The most important rule to understand is that design from missy to plus doesn’t always follow the grade rules.

Building Products that Perform

The plus size customer is searching for bras in all bra categories - from lounge bras to sport bras and maternity bras. Each category has specific requirements that must be met. Sports bras need to reduce breast bounce, and lounge bras need to offer more comfort with less restrictions. For example, at DLI, we conduct continual research and development to find the latest fabrics and components that will deliver improved comfort and support. Our teams are experts in design and technical areas, and are continually assessing, examining and conducting trials and wear tests on all aspects of a bra’s construction to meet and improve each bra category’s needs.

There are many areas to think about when creating plus size bras. By working with experts as part of the in-house team, brands can benefit from a perfected grading system and the understanding of the engineering behind a great fitting plus size bra that also performs as expected. First and

foremost, the plus size customer requires a bra that offers support, lift and shaping while at the same time remains appealing. These are all crucial for a wider band and/or heavier bust, and the right fitting bra can significantly improve both shape under clothes and overall comfort.

Communication is Key Retailers and brands truly make diligent efforts to be a part of the community from working with influencers, creating meaningful advertising campaigns and developing better products. Yet for numerous brands, programs that have a great product are confusingly not successful.

Part of the challenge is that for many years the plus size customer has not been heard. It’s time to listen and find out exactly what she wants to look like. Retailers need to hear from plus sizes and embrace feedback – otherwise there’s a disconnect. Brands need to select the models that communicate that a person, no matter their size, can look and feel the best that they can be. The right bra will give a level of confidence that almost no other purchase can match.

A Focus on The Future

We know that customers, particularly younger ones, seek and shop at brands that embrace their own values surrounding social issues. This includes fair trade and labor practices, sustainable manufacturing and materials and, of course, brand inclusivity. We also know that the past two years have put a greater focus on wellness and comfort. When we can combine these areas, brands will find success.

We need to remember that real change takes time. It’s an important mindset that has its opportunities as brands work to build their plus size offerings. Brands need to commit to plus size customers and show that they are going to be there for the long term.

While it might sound like a tall order, it is in part the job of partners and suppliers to offer solutions that support these long term goals. This is not a passing fad and brands that create products that make plus size customers feel confident, physically and emotionally, will win.

Dora L. International, Los Angeles 441 S. Hewitt Street Los Angeles, CA 90013

Tel: (855) 882-8789 info@doralinc.com doralinc.com

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Ready, Set, Dressed.

Experience an expansive collection in Atlanta for women’s, men’s, and children’s apparel, shoes, and accessories. Then, head west to Las Vegas for another great opportunity to shop young contemporary, accessories, shoes, and more. Each market hosts top brands, plenty of parties, complimentary food and drinks, and trend presentations and photo ops to keep you inspired.

FUTURE MARKET DATES

October Atlanta Apparel

October 11-October 15, 2022

January Atlanta Apparel

January 31 – February 4, 2023

February Las Vegas Apparel

February 12 - February 15, 2023

March Atlanta Apparel March 28 – April 1

For full market dates and registration, visit Atlanta-Apparel.com and LasVegas-Apparel.com

#atlapparel #shoplva | @apparelmarkets

Creating Even t-Driven Platforms Connecting and Inspiring the Global Fashion Community as it Evolves. TRADESHOWS
:
© Jenna Bascom
mannpublications.com | M JANUARY 2023

ATLANTA APPAREL KICKS OFF 2023 HIGHLIGHTING POPULAR SPRING/SUMMER CATEGORIES

January 31 – February 3 at AmericasMart Atlanta

Atlanta Apparel launches 2023 fashion sourcing by highlighting popular Spring/Summer ’23 categories along with a full schedule of events and amenities, and a new, optimized calendar for temporary exhibits. Atlanta Apparel’s fi rst market of the year runs January 31 – February 4 at AmericasMart Atlanta.

“We are looking forward to ringing in the new year with expansive sourcing resources and only-in-Atlanta experiences,” said Caron Stover, IMC senior vice president, apparel. “In response to customer feedback, we have fi ne-tuned our hours and events to make the market experience better than ever before.”

Additional and New Showrooms and Exhibits

For the fi rst apparel market of the year, Atlanta Apparel will showcase popular categories: Children’s, Athleisure & Lounge and Spring/Summer ’23 across 11 floors of permanent showrooms and temporary exhibits. New this year, Atlanta Apparel has expanded the duration of its fi rst floor temporary exhibit offering, opening Floor 1 concurrently with permanent showrooms on Tuesday, January 31.

New this market, Atlanta Apparel welcomes six new permanent showrooms: Brad Hughes & Associates (contemporary); Doug Lord Sales (contemporary); Flag and Anthem (women’s and men’s contemporary); O Marche (contemporary); Vigoss Denim (women’s and men’s denim); and UNOde50 (women’s and men’s accessories).

On pace with popular themes for 2023, Atlanta Apparel will welcome notable exhibitors across women’s and men’s, athleisure and Spring/ Summer ’23 categories in temporary exhibits on five floors: Addison Bay (resort); Andre Assous (shoes); Erimish (women’s and men’s contemporary); Gigi Pip (hats); Little Words Project (accessories); Mod Ref (women’s and men’s contemporary); Mono B (women’s and men’s athleisure); Oliphant (resort); Pura Vida (accessories); Smith & Quinn (resort); and Southern Frock (resort).

In the temporary exhibits on Floor 1, Atlanta Apparel will showcase brands for four days, including: GLAM (young contemporary); Easel (young contemporary); Ee:Some (young contemporary); and Umgee (young contemporary). As an added benefit, Atlanta Apparel will feature an expanded collection of cash & carry accessory resources on its fi rst floor, offering retailers an opportunity to source same-day delivery products this winter.

For the fi rst Atlanta Apparel market of 2023, showrooms and fi rst floor temporary exhibits run Tuesday, January 31 – Friday, February 3, and Floor 2 – 5 temporary exhibits run Wednesday, February 1 – Friday,

February 3. New this year, permanent showrooms and temporary exhibits will open at 8:30 a.m. (giving buyers an additional 30 minutes to source and shop), with all temporary exhibits closing Friday at 3 p.m. Select showrooms will be open Saturday, February 4, from 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., and appointments are highly encouraged.

Hallmark Atlanta Apparel Events, Education and Amenities

Beyond exhibits, the fi rst Atlanta Apparel market of the year will feature renowned hospitality and at-market events, amenities and educational trend programming.

Kicking off market events is the Atlanta Apparel Kickoff Party, sponsored by Matisse, featuring a Live Model Demonstration with upcoming Spring/ Summer ’23 trends with footwear provided by Matisse, live music, refreshments and branded giveaways on Wednesday, February 1, in the Building 3 atrium. On Thursday, February 2, Atlanta Apparel will host its fi rst-ever Mid-Market Soiree at 12:00, offering market attendees a chance to network over cocktails and music in the atrium.

Hallmark education kicks off the new year with a presentation by Paula Ersley of Acadia and Little Words Project on Social Media Brand Discovery, Wednesday, February 1 at 10:30 in the atrium.

Additionally, retailers can draw inspiration from Atlanta Apparel’s three curated category lounges: Mommy & Me on Floor 3, Athleisure & Lounge on Floor 4 and Spring/Summer ’23 on Floor 5. Each lounge will have its own unique activation daily: on Wednesday, Floor 3 will feature a buildyour-own-necklace station; Thursday, Floor 4 will present an illustrator drawing at-market outfits; and Friday, Floor 5 will offer an iced coffee bar.

In the Building 3 registration lobby, Atlanta Apparel will feature a Pantone Color of the Year photo opportunity and a Discover Atlanta interactive map, showcasing local dining and attractions to round out the market experience.

Signature market amenities include grab-and-go breakfast and coffee from Wednesday through Friday, a live DJ daily upon arrival, daily happy hours and new buyer orientation sessions led by Sarabeth Jackson, IMC Director of Buyer Services for apparel. Attendees also can take advantage of complimentary mid-morning and afternoon treats throughout the building.

The five Atlanta Apparel markets feature the latest looks in contemporary, young contemporary, ready-to-wear, fashion accessories and more, plus specialty categories such as children’s and plus-size. For market information and registration, visit https://www.atlanta-apparel.com/ Markets/atlanta-apparel/February.

TRADE SHOWS mannpublications.com JANUARY 2023 FM | 75

DALLAS TOTAL HOME & GIFT MARKET:

FIRST SHOW OF THE YEAR DELIVERS TOP

BRANDS

AND BIG INSPIRATION

The fi rst trade event of the year serving retail decision makers from around the world, Dallas Total Home & Gift Market, took place from January 4-10, and featured a record number of new exhibitors and collections from top brands and artisans. The centrally located marketplace announced exclusive details for the winter edition of its trade event that will showcase important new brands and collections, artisan items, inspiring special exhibits, exciting events and celebrity appearances for the new year.

“The fi rst show of the year is a must-attend event for retailers and designers,” said Cindy Morris, president and CEO of Dallas Market Center. “It’s more important than ever for buyers to be fi rst in line for new collections, one-of-a-kind pieces and best sellers. It’s also important for retailers to see in person what’s trending for the new year. We are anticipating a well-attended show, supported by loyal buyers and new buyers seeking a single marketplace to fi nd everything they need. Buyers are increasingly seeking the best combination of inspiration and ease, which is the Dallas difference.”

TRADE SHOWS mannpublications.com JANUARY 2023 FM | 77
Photo Credit: Dallas Total Home & Gift Market
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JIAM 2022 OSAKA

JIAM 2022 OSAKA, organized by the Japan Sewing Machinery Manufacturers Association (JASMA), was held at INTEX OSAKA under the theme of “It all connects at JIAM – the forefront of technology and master craftsmanship.” The 12th edition brought together leading sewing machine suppliers and apparel manufacturers, making it a must-attend event for textile professionals. In this era of change, an international platform to facilitate business and information exchange is essential. The 2022 edition will showcase apparel manufacturing solutions catered to every need, combining high-level skillsets and time-tested knowledge with the latest modern-day technology.

144 exhibitors from 10 countries and regions (China, Greece, Germany, Hong Kong, India, Italy, Singapore, Taiwan and Thailand) have signed up for JIAM 2022 OSAKA and showcased their latest products and services. Out of all that was showcased, 39 companies (21 domestic, 18 overseas) joined the fair for the first time. In addition, two pavilions from Germany (VDMA; Mechanical Engineering Industry Association) and Taiwan (TSMA; Taiwan Sewing Machinery Association) brought even more product diversity to the show floor. The previous edition of JIAM OSAKA in 2016 welcomed 258 exhibitors from 15 countries and regions as well as 15,257 visitors from 72 countries and regions, mainly from Bangladesh, China, India, Korea, Taiwan, Sri Lanka and Vietnam.

TRADE SHOWS
Photo Credit: Jiam

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New Year, New Reads

Get Changed: Finding the New You rough Fashion by Kat Farmer

Releasing January 3, 2023 Get Changed is for the countless women out there who are wondering whether they know who they are anymore. Loss of identity is an experience all too familiar to Instagram style guru and professional stylist Kat Farmer. In her own life, she found that fashion helped her regenerate herself and rediscover her con dence.

In Get Changed, Kat’s authentic, down-to-earth voice, trademark humor and insights into some of her personal anxieties make you feel like she’s right there in the room with you.

Fashion Designers A-Z. 40th Ed by Valerie Steele

Releasing January 28, 2023

From Azzedine Alaïa and Cristóbal Balenciaga to Coco Chanel and Alexander McQueen, Yves Saint Laurent and Vivienne Westwood, more than a century’s worth of fashion greats from the permanent collection of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York City are celebrated in this fresh edition of Fashion Designers A–Z.

is accessibly priced and updated collection features photographs of hundreds of garments selected from the museum’s permanent collection. From an exquisitely embroidered velvet evening gown to Mondrian-style minimalist chic, each chosen piece is selected not only for its beauty but for its representative value, distilling the unique philosophy and aesthetics of each of the featured designers.

distilling

Dior by Sarah Moon

Releasing January 23, 2023 is three-volume publication explores three distinct phases in the history of the legendary French fashion house founded in 1946. e rst volume presents 33 black-and-white images of Dior’s original designs, staged by French photographer Sarah Moon at the Fondation Le Corbusier in Paris during the summer of 2021. It interweaves almost abstract photographs of the Fondation with vivid portrayals of the models. e second volume contains 43 images documenting a selection of garments designed by the various artistic directors of Dior between 1958 and 2015: Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano and Raf Simons. e third and nal volume presents 38 photographs taken since the arrival of Dior’s current artistic director, Maria Grazia Chiuri.

Aria d’Italia: Contemporary Italian Lifestyle by Paola Jacobbi

Releasing February 7, 2023 Aria d’Italia celebrates the contemporary Italian lifestyle and its values, highlighting talent and passion for quality in every aspect of life, from the culinary world to art and social life to the loving care of traditions. e book demonstrates a harmony of action and thought that transcends nationality and can be embraced by all.

and Sal

Fresh Fly Fabulous: 50 Years of Hip Hop Style by Elizabeth Way & Elena Romero Releasing February 7, 2023

Fresh Fly Fabulous: 50 Years of Hip Hop Style draws on the experiences and memories of those who were there, from a foreword by Slick Rick, to interviews with Disco Fever club owner Sal Abbatiello and designers Dapper Dan and April Walker, to chapters from Vibe stylist Emil Wilbekin and former editor of e Source, Kim Osorio. Topics cover the range of hip hop’s in uential style over the past half century, tracing the evolution from early hip hop style, born of aspiration, individuality and practicality to contemporary fashion steeped in luxury brands.

JANUARY 2023 FM | 81
Photo courtesy of Amazon Books

Aries

WHAT DOES

THE COSMO HOLD FOR YOU

THIS MONTH January 2023 In the Stars

Taurus

You start off your new year with great luck and positivity thanks to Jupiter settling in your sign. It is a good time to start a new project or continue expanding what you are currently working on. Avoid friction with your loved ones by not making too many promises as you won’t be able to follow through with all of them. From January 4th to the 27th, Venus animates your life. This boosts your charisma and attraction towards others. Your sense of purpose helps you establish and maintain a pleasant atmosphere.

You are feeling a bit trapped at the beginning of January. Heavy Taurus placements will experience pressure within your career and fi nances. Try to adapt to anything that doesn’t go your way. You will soon realize it all leads you to the best later in 2023. Try to shake off that lingering pessimistic feeling because it will attract more chaos when you’re seeking stability and peace.

Libra

Between the 4th and the 27th, Venus in Aquarius fi lls your love life with a unique outlook on what your current relationships are. You fi nd yourself wanting to be isolated, but this sparks your creativity. You fi nd those that you connect with that seem to be on the same wavelength as you. January will be a prosperous fi nancial month. You will succeed in your career despite some ups and downs. There will be indications that income is rising.

Cancer

Gemini

The theme of this year is evolving. January starts off with Mars being in your sign. The energies that emanate from Mars and Jupiter bring contribution to the right amount of change that favors your goals in both personal and professional aspects. Venus being in Aquarius frees you from emotional constraints and gives you the freedom to access your romantic side.

Cancer placements are very driven at the start of January. Although the imposter syndrome is at an all-time high, you are trying to level up in your career. Do not hesitate and go after what you want, despite not feeling good enough. Truth is, you’re the only one being very critical towards your projects. Your professional life isn’t the only place you lose some confi dence in. Get vulnerable with the ones you love to ease tension.

Sagittarius

Sagittarians will experience positive changes. The energy from Venus puts lightness in your relationships and your independence is appreciated and valued. Jupiter being in Aries gratifi es you with waves of luck. It boosts your initiative so that your existence is in line with your goals. You are good at saving your money and avoiding unnecessary expenses. But do not overdo it; it is okay to treat yourself every once in a while.

Virgo

Leo

The energies that emanate from Aquarius agitate your faults without you realizing it. This causes you to want to speak in a firm way that comes off brutal and abrupt. Try to consciously deliver your messages with humor and relaxation. Jupiter in Aries brings you the luck you needed and offers opportunities that are likely to bring you to other horizons. If you manage to control your little hiccups this month, everything will be fine.

The new year starts off with a pleasant atmosphere. The sun being in Capricorn makes you feel safe. You are feeling a sense of self-confi dence and you are understanding how to trust your intuition. Your relationships with loved ones, whether platonic or romantic, appear to be very strong. Be wary with fi nances this month as your new profound attitude may have you a bit reckless with expenses.

Aquarius

This month kicks off the year with your financial condition being favorable. You will be able to keep your finances in check. Learn to accept changes as they might be the best outcome. Your attitude will make or break any vulnerable position you’re in when it comes to these changes. Try not to react with emotion as you will be tested with your patience in your work field. Whether you see it now or later, these major shifts will prepare for a successful year.

82 | FM JANUARY 2023 mannpublications.com 2023

Scorpio

Scorpio Horoscope 2023 predicts that your health will require careful attention. While the beginning of the year will be favorable, after January 17th you notice that you are more at risk with health-related issues thanks to your placement in the sixth house. Aside from health, everything else seems to be working in your favor. Career and personal relationships are thriving.

Capricorn

Planetary alignments indicates that January will bring major changes in your life. Venus helps your mood and you find yourself to be more positive and happier overall this month. You begin to find a perfect balance with work and play. Continue to transform into this evolved version of you and you’ll find the rest of the year to be generally smooth. Expect small problems to arise here and there but continue handling them with grace and ease.

Pisces

Expect January to bring better money flow than any of the previous years. This month foretells a very prosperous year regarding your career and finances. Pisces placements also find themselves to less spontaneous and more isolated because you go through a period from the 3rd to the 11th of deep self-reflection. You may find yourself questioning everything and revaluating where you are in life and where you stand in your relationships.

mannpublications.com JANUARY 2023 FM | 83

Peter S. Duncan I 212.481.1137 pduncan@gcomfort.com Matt Coudert 212.542.2121 I mcoudert@gcomfort.com Andrew F. Conrad I 212.542.2101 aconrad@gcomfort.com

Bold New Entrances & Retail Storefronts New Turnstiles for Touchless Entry Newly Renovated Lobby with Sleek Modern Design State-of-the-Art Facial Recognition at Select Turnstiles New Grab & Go Coffee Shop & Lounge Area New Touchless Destination Dispatch Elevators to Maximize Service Experience the Transformation as it Unfolds 12,712 RSF - 30,289 RSF VISION
ECO FASHION CONSCIOUS Across 1. Ethiopian model, known as high fashion’s “it girl” - 2 words 6. Bill at a bar 8. Project Runway mentor, ____ Gunn 9. Angora fabrics 11. Spreading fast online 12. Imagine 14. Edges 15. Opposite of formal, in fashion 16. Hair curler 18. Golf goal 19. Pink color 21. Joke (around) 23. Negative vote 24. Creates 26. Sound system, abbr. 28. Bronc center encouraging kids to become leaders and fi nd their voices through art, 2 words Down 1. One of the words jeweler Susan Lenart works from to ensure her expression seeps through her craft 2. Brand co-founded by Mark Wahlberg now partnering with Hendon Hooker, dynamic QB for the University of Tennessee 3. First name of the American model considered by many as the “fi rst Supermodel” 4. French for friend 5. Soccer club collaborating with Meta to create its digital apparel line 6. Global leader in AI-fi rst mobile body measuring and virtual try-on - 3 words 7. Pants supports from Gucci, Mulberry, Saint Laurent and others 10. Sandwiches 13. Key tailoring action 17. Popular type of top from Ami Paris and Loro Piana, 2 words 18. Color representing Breast Cancer Awareness 20. Quick drink 22. Arp’s art form 24. Spanish for day 25. ___ de plume 27. 60 min., abbr.

SOCIAL SAFARI : On the red carpet I L

Fashion Take Over at Art Basel Miami: Sarabande Dinner

The late designer Alexander McQueen established the Sarabande Foundation in 2010 to safeguard the future of creatives. This year, the intimate dinner marked Miami Art Week’s opening. After great success in the UK, the foundation plans to bring more studio, gallery and education spaces to New York City. The dinner, held at The Standard Spa, hosted notable faces such as Nadja Sayej, author of the brilliant “Paparazzi Bitch”: Swedish philanthropist Sofie Mahlkvist; Thomas Donohoe, author of “The CEO’s Digital Marketing Playbook”; Erin Newberg; and Kim Manocherian.

The highlight of the evening came courtesy of sculptor Izaak Brandt, who gave a breakdance performance amongst his hand-drawn, 3D-printed trainers that were suspended in midair. At the end of the night, guests received bone China plates they were able to take home, which were designed by Sarabande members and artists. Also in the mix were Misha Nonoo, Serena Rees, Polina Zakh, Michaela Yearwood-Dan and Sarabande’s guiding lights, Trino Verkade and Francesca Amfitheatrof. sarabandefoundation.org

86 | FM JANUARY 2023 mannpublications.com SOCIAL SOIREE
Louisa Benton, Aly Raisman, Audrey Gruss

Victoria & Albert Museum: London

Madcap heiress and designer Libbie Mugrabi splashed out a million dollars to underwrite and save the Victoria & Albert Museum’s (V&A) Fashion in Motion program in London, which had been cut from the museum’s roster because of a lack of funding. This fall’s free-to-attend runway show in the museum’s grand Raphael Room featured South African fashion designer Thebe Magugu, whose clothing line can be bought at Bergdorf Goodman in NYC. The show featured the designer’s luxury ready-to-wear collections, which drew inspiration from his South African heritage by interweaving African motifs and craft to create vibrant and celebratory looks that explore history, culture and politics of the continent. Thebe visited Dunuza – a wellknown site for second-hand clothes discarded by Europe and America – in order to gather materials which he then reused within the collection.

Describing the collection as “trickle-up fashion,” Thebe seeks to invert the theory of “trickle-down” luxury, which argues that fashion is a hierarchical and class-based industry. Magugu said, “For this collection I thought about national identity politics, and how western influence has penetrated indigenous dress. I found that Dunuza acts as a nexus between local and global, throwing everything into a melting pot that produces post-modern interpretation of what African fashion is.” Following the show, Libbie hosted a dinner at the new private 22 Club. Guests included Sarah Bailey, Harriet Quick, Susan Bender, Lainey Sheridan Young, Tatler’s Chandler Tregaskes and Libbie’s Design director Marko Matysik. vam.ac.uk

annual Hope for Depression Research Foundation (HDRF) luncheon at The Plaza Hotel. Co-chairs included Sharon Bush, Nancy Silverman, Susan Gutfreund, Liz Peek, Kim Heirston, Eleanora Kennedy, Kitty and Bill McKnight, Scott Snyder and Felicia Taylor. The compelling luncheon topic was “Teenagers and Depression: Addressing the Youth Mental Health Crisis.” Chuck Scarborough was the day’s MC and introduced the speakers, which included Dr. Angela Diaz, Dr. Helen Mayberg, Dr. Conor Liston, HDRF’s Executive Director Louisa Benton, Jamee Gregory and Peter Gregory, who gave an inspiring speech about the struggles his family has had with depression. The keynote speech was given by Raisman, who talked about her own depression and how she works to keep it in check. Among those leading the applause were Martin Gruss, Muffie Potter Aston, Hilary Geary Ross, Christine Mack, Veronica Webb, John Meeks, John Paulson, James Aman, Krista Bard, Dr. Steven Roose, Lis Waterman, Lynne Wheat, Gillian Miniter, Marc Rosen and Margo Nederlander. hopefordepression.org

Mr. Brainwash: Carlton Fine Arts

Carlton Fine Arts, a gallery at 545 Madison Avenue, was completely reimagined by renowned pop artist Mr. Brainwash for his current one-man exhibition. The artist even wrapped the six-story building in his graffiti including his iconic images of Marylin Monroe, Albert Einstein and Michael Jackson’s chimp. Owner Charles Saffati and his associate Claude Pardo hosted an opening night event for the artist, welcoming guests such as fellow pop artists Guy Stanley Philoche and Lin Jie Deng, Frederick Davis, Michelle Marks, divorce attorney Ken Jewell and philanthropist Afsaneh Akhtari. Mr. Brainwash rose to fame when “Exit Through the Gift Shop,” a documentary about his life produced by the artist Banksy, came out in 2010. Mr. Brainwash’s work has been collected by Kim Kardashian, Madonna, Rick Ross and DJ Kygo and has been seen on TV shows “Shameless” and “Keeping Up with the Kardashians.” Over one hundred new paintings and sculptures are on display. carltonfa.com

SOCIAL SOIREE
Hope for Depression Research Foundation Olympic gold medal gymnast Aly Raisman and philanthropists Jamee and Peter Gregory were honored at Audrey Gruss’s Thomas Donahoe and Sofie Mahlkvist Libbie Mugrabi and R Couri Hay
JANUARY 2023 FM | 87
Mr Brainwash,Charles Sa f fa t i
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Iris Dankner, interior designer and founder of Holiday House, hosted the Holiday House Designer Showhouse Gala to raise funds for breast cancer research. The gala launched showrooms that were open to the public from November 10-December 11, 2022 at the luxury residential tower, The Kent, located at 200 East 95th St. The gala was presented by Extell Development Company, the building’s developers, and CL Investment Group.

Supporting Dankner’s crusade at the Showhouse opening were 20 glittering high-end de signers, including Cynthia Rowley Inc., Roche Bobios, Sarah Lederman and Susan Glick, who decorated their own contemporary spaces at The Kent on Manhattan’s chic Upper East Side. The opening night featured stylish supporters of this wonderful cause.

mannpublications.com JANUARY 2023 FM | 89 SOCIAL SOIREE
House Showhouse Gala Raises
AmyLau,IrisDankner JanaZinn,ErikaShulman JaneGish,DavidPhillips GogioBabari,ScottStern AnelleGandlemanGannaParisiTommyHuerter HHuerter
Sanderson/AnnieWatt.com BYMICHELE GERBERKLEIN
Holiday
Funds for Breast Cancer Research
Photocredit:John

BLACK& WHITE A ffair

Happy New Year and hello 2023! Pop the champagne and celebrate the new year with a bang! We are loving the feminine and classic trends that bring sophistication. You can never go wrong with a timless black and white outfit. Feeling edgier? Make your statement bold with metallics to really stand out. We got you covered on all things timeless and unique. Take a closer look at our looks for a certain “je ne sais quoi” in your wardrobe.

A Closer Look
: Houseof CB
PhotoCredit
mannpublications.com JANUARY 2023 FM | 91
Sabine Black Strapless Corset Dress $299
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 9 8 10 11 12 2. Zara Combination Tulle Bodysuit
zara.com 3. Vivenne Westwood Three Row Pearl Bas Relief
4. Valentino Stud
bag
5. Ash Off White Marabao
6. Paco Rabanne
7. Arturi Over-the-knee boot - Stiletto heel $180 Aldoshoes.com 8. Dolce&Gabbana DG Charm Pearl Clip-On Earrings
Nordstrom.com 9. Rene Caovilla Crystal-Embellished Metallic Leather Wrap
saksfi
10. Lara Tulle Glove with
11. Prada Satin mini-bag with crystals
6. Courreges Black twisted Scarf Top
1.
houseofcb.com
$35.90
Choker $610 vivennewestwood.com
Sign CalfSkin Hobo
$ 2,850.00 valentino.com
Jacket $299 houseofcb.com
Circle Sequin Miniskirt $1,890 saksfi fthavenue.com
$485.00
Sandals $1,560
fthavenue.com
Harlequin Cuff $198 corneilajames.com
$ 2,500 prada.com
$430 courreges.com
92 | FM JANUARY 2023
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Devan Gregori Blends The People Side of Sustainability With Functional Fashion

For Oakland, California-based designer Devan Gregori, worker welfare and optimizing clothes that comfort and function well with all body types is the peak of high fashion. Gregori recently opened her first brick-and-mortar store in Oakland, California, a dream of hers that has been in the works ever since she quit her job in tech to venture into the fashion world. The opening celebration included a DJ, wine, appetizers, and a great way to kick off the future of this functional brand that puts body acceptance, comfort and worker welfare first.

Where did you grow up?

I grew up in Oakland, California. There used to be a lot of manufacturing in the bay area, which shifted toward LA. With that, the culture of dressing has shifted. Up in the bay we are tech focused, and with that comes dressing for efficiency and optimizing for productivity than for self-expression.

You’ve lived in many places. How has travel informed your work?

I lived in France for five and a half years. I worked in Mexico City and I traveled to LA often. I thrived in these places where fashion was used to make a statement about one’s self or what one believes in. I really wanted to bring that back to the Bay Area, to my home.

When I lived in France, I went to school in Lyon at Ecole de Condé, which is two hours south of Paris. I interned with a Japanese designer. The experience I had over there taught me about clean lines, which I continue to use to this day. It also

taught me to have a discerning eye. It’s not always about adding more but taking things away, and always asking questions about fit, feel, what it represents and knowing that just “okay” is not good enough.

Why does functionality play such a role in your designs?

Instead of fighting this fight of optimizing comfort in my clothes, I wanted to find a way to fuse those together. Making garments that are very functional and practical with zero sacrifice when it comes to personal style and aesthetic and making a statement with what u put on ur body is a priority in my fashion and should be for everyone else’s style too, if they want it to be.

Style and comfort trends cater toward the comfort side of things and less toward the style. I wanted to find the perfect balance between the two. Making a statement with what you put on your body is a choice of what you support in life, too. Are you concerned with ethical manufacturing? The care and quality of other people’s lives? It’s a skill and a talent that goes into making clothes.

How is your brand sustainable?

I only make things in small batches; there is no mass production. I don’t want to put more out into the world that may or may not be used or consumed. Fabric and textile waste is number one in terms of the types of waste we produce. If I can do my part not to participate in reducing that, it’s very important to me.

Worker welfare is something I am very passionate about for a

LAST LOOK
Photos courtesy of Kala Minko

few reasons. One: I produce in China and that’s contentious to say. Most people think that China means unfair labor practices and that’s simply not true. A lot of people love labels that are made in the U.S., and while they certainly have reason to embrace those brands, there’s also a lot of unethical manufacturing in the U.S. that goes unnoticed or is assumed that it’s not happening.

The reason I manufacture in China is that a friend I know lives there. After being in the production industry for 15 years, he started his own manufacturer over there and was a real mentor to me when I just started the brand in April 2019. He guided me through this process and invited me to go to China to work side-by-side and see what ethical manufacturing looks like and to meet the people that make it happen.

What does your production look like in China?

I work with a small team of five in the northern part of China in a city called Dalian. Only sample makers make my garments. Nothing is outsourced to larger factories. Everyone is paid a fair working wage and all the time off they deserve. I eat lunch with them when I travel out there; they’re really like family. This is so important to my story.

I also source my own textiles. Not only do I consume as much of the textile that I order, but with all the scrap fabric that gets leftover from production, I make scrunchies. We use as much of that fabric as possible in order to reduce the amount of textile waste that eventually piles up in landfills. I source fabrics from small mills. I work with a family-owned and -operated mill in Lyon that does all my printed textiles, and I like to support small, local mills. I also work with a mill in Japan who produces all of my cotton for overalls.

I steer clear of anything that’s polyester or metallic or elastane. I want things that are more pure and biodegradable.

What makes your design process unique?

It’s a team effort that comes from unexpected places. Sometimes things come as a sketch, or sometimes a piece I see at a second hand clothing store, or I take a picture of something someone is wearing. I’ll sketch it out and start playing with draping on a mannequin.

Sometimes I take garments apart and put them back together to see how they work. Sometimes I’ll trace the piece of a collar and manipulate it into a fuller formed piece. Once something is finished, I make a pattern based on that and I send it to Dalian where they will then take that pattern,

digitize it and create a prototype which I then edit and play with some more.

How are your clothes functional?

Everything can be put in the washing machine. They can be washed on cold and line dry, which is important because I don’t like going to the dry cleaner. In terms of the silhouettes themselves, I try to incorporate elastic and zippers in waistbands. Our bodies fluctuate throughout the day. Having something that is comfortable throughout the day is important, regardless of how your body fluctuates. If I don’t want to wear a purse, then I don’t want to wear a purse. That’s why everything has pockets, deep enough to put a phone in without fear of falling out or adding bulk to the silhouette. I do a lot of jumpsuits for this reason, too.

What makes the clothes versatile?

Black and neutral colors are offered all year round so each piece is versatile in terms of styling, in addition to being functional. You can incorporate a piece of what I call an approachable statement piece, which can be a bright color or a pattern that makes a bold statement.

Because the silhouettes are clean, they’re easy to wear and match; it’s not an intimidating statement piece to put on your body. Whether it’s my mom going to brunch with her girlfriends, or my sister performing at the downtown piano bar, or you’re heading to an office interview or happy hour, my designs function for any event. They’re even cross-generational; there’s a huge age range of people who can wear this without worrying, ‘Am I too old for this?’

I like this idea of fashion being something you can create a community around, and people across generations being able to shop the same brand and love the same looks.

What can we expect from your brick-and-mortar store?

It will be a womenswear clothing store. All my clothes will be in there to try on and purchase. I will have a selection of female local brands as well. I’ll have sustainable leather bags by Claire Harper and artisan jewelry by other local Berkeley artists and a selection of house plants, pottery and floral arrangements by a woman who is located just down the street from me.

Give us a glimpse of what’s for the future. Two very big things are on the horizon that I don’t yet have a timeline for. What I can say is that we are expanding into plus sizes and after that, I am going to expand into menswear.

marcumllp. com EVER WONDER WHERE THE PEOPLE WITH ALL THE ANSWERS GET ALL THE ANSWERS? Ask MARCUM Marcum’s National Consumer Products Group Leaders: Michael Sacco michael.sacco@marcumllp.com Ronald Friedman ron.friedman@marcumllp.com

Fashion is global. You need a partner that understands the challenges of International Logistics. For more than 50 years Dynamic Worldwide has been helping Retailers and Consumer Product Manufacturers move product more efficiently from around the world to the selling floor. Featuring company owned and operated locations throughout Asia, find out how Dynamic can make your supply chain more cost-effective.

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