Fashion Mannuscript January 2024

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THE NEW YEAR’S ISSUE

FA S H ION M A N N USCRI PT

NEW YORK LOS ANGELES MIAMI THE HAMPTONS

CASTRO NYC

Launches Testament to Fine Jewelry

BANANA REPUBLIC Home Collection

PLUS

New Year Tech Needs from WITHit

LE VIAN TH E M A R E A Z ZU R RO CO LLEC TIO N


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PRESIDENT/CEO Jeff Mann EDITORIAL Editor Laurie Melchionne

ART Art Director Serena Bhullar

Copy Editor Geraldine Melchionne

Graphic Designer Madi McCreesh

Editorial Consultant Debra Hazel

Graphic Designer Laura Chousa

Associate Editor Alex Baumbusch Southeast Editor Shanna Forrestall Director of Communications and Marketing Penelope Herrera Director of Newsletter Division Cheri Phillips

West Coast Office: 578 Washington Blvd., Suite 827 Marina Del Rey, CA 90292 866-306-MANN (6266)

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY Le Vian CONTRIBUTORS Ronald S. Friedman Frank DeLucia R. Couri Hay Anne Marie Soto Dora Lau Debra Hazel Michele Gerber Klein Donna Johnson-Klonsky Laurie Melchionne

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BUSINESS Technology Consultant Joshua Fried Distribution Mitchell’s Delivery Service California Distribution MD Service West Coast Advisor Ilse Metchek DIGITAL MEDIA Serena Bhullar Madi McCreesh Laura Chousa Web Developer CS Designworks

East Coast Office: 450 7th Ave, Suite 2306 New York, NY 10123 212-840-MANN (6266)

The opinions expressed by our columnists are not reflective of the views and opinions of the publisher or the editorial staff of Fashion Mannuscript. Publication of such views and opinions does not constitute endorsement by Fashion Mannuscript. Any reproduction, including but not limited to internet usage, is prohibited without the express written permission of the publisher.


ONE MANN’S OPINION Welcome back to Fashion Mannuscript! We begin 2024 with a bang; our special cover story is on Mare Azzurro, LeVian’s latest collection that takes the brand on a fresh journey. For the past 25 years, LeVian has been recognized for its signature chocolate diamonds. With Mare Azzurro, however, this household name diverts from tradition with a whole new look. These water-inspired luxury jewels have become more than high-end accessories; through a meticulous gem-cutting process, this collection tells a story of the sea that resonates with everyone. The new year also marks an exciting new chapter at Fashion Mannuscript, as our digital presence has accelerated rapidly. Our official Instagram page has skyrocketed thanks to our exclusive coverage of behind-the-scenes events with top industry names and places, such as S.T. Dupont, Anna Fontaine, Cucina ½, Swarovski and more. As you may already know, philanthropy is an initiative that is close to my heart, and I look forward to continuing the work we do at the Mann Charitable Foundation and linking Fashion Mannuscript’s coverage with the charity’s efforts in the world of medical fundraising. I hope you all enjoyed your holiday season. Here’s to a happy, healthy and prosperous new year!

“Happiness is achieved when you stop waiting for it and make the most of the moment you are in now.” -Unknown


“She is All Things Water.” This phrase whispers throughout this issue’s cover story...but what does water have to do with New Year fashion? In 2024, this question is answered by Le Vian (you may have heard of them), the powerhouse in fine jewelry. Mare Azzurro means “blue sea” in Italian, and is the brand’s latest collection that features an array of blue-hued gems with light-determined tones. Like tidal waves, this presence of constant movement tells the story of the sea’s ever-changing shades. The moment the wearer dons a piece from Mare Azzurro, she becomes “all things water,” and embodies the freedom, sensuality and infinity of the ocean. Mare Azzurro also marks the first time in 25 years that Le Vian has launched a campaign without its signature chocolate diamonds. This collection opens an exciting new chapter for 2024 with a whole new look...while still embodying Le Vian’s iconic sophistication. Flipping through the rest of these pages will reveal more treats for our jewelry-lovers out there. Castro NYC and Goshwara’s Ark Collection provide the glitz and glam your accessories cabinet craves in 2024, with options that range from red-carpet-ready to casual elegance for any occasion. These stories set the stage for luxury in our 2024 coverage, and nothing says luxury like diamonds! Here at Fashion Mannuscript, we are so excited to welcome back our readers in the new year. I hope you have had a lovely holiday season, and I look forward to sharing 2024 with all of you. -Laurie Melchionne

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JANUARY 2024

46 ON THE COVER:

FASHION FAVORITES

MARE AZZURRO FROM LE VIAN BY LAURIE MELCHIONNE

12

COVER FEATURE

Night of Stars Gala with Fashion Group International

14

Clarins & Modern Luxury Celebrate Austin Formula One Grand Prix

16

Dinner with Mytheresa & ERDEM

Photo courtesy of Le Vian

FASHION FABULOUS 5

One Mann’s Opinion

6

Editor’s Letter

22

411 Executive Changes

Photo courtesy of Sana Crown



THE DEPARTMENTS 30 Finance

57 Techwear

62 The Columns

75 Trade Show Connections

84 New Year’s Gift Guide

90 Fashion History

94

Last Look How to Overcome New Year’s Shopping Resolutions Setbacks By Laurie Melchionne

FASHION FORWARD 36

Prata & Mastrale Milano Hits Sartoria Menswear Lounge

38

Ghurka Leather

40

Castro NYC Jewelry

42

Fashion at Home: Banana Republic’s Home Collection

44

WITHit’s New Year Tech Needs

50

On the Riviera: Atelier Bianca Bridal

52

Sana Crown: Jewelry’s Female Gaze

Photo courtesy of Zimmermann


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FASHION FAVORITES Elizabeth Sutton

Nadia Ferreira, Marc Anthony, Maryanne Grisz and Darlyn Portes

Martha Stewart

Jean Shafiroff

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FASHION FAVORITES Gale Boye

Jack McCullough, Cathy Horyn and Lazaro Hernandez

FGI’S NIGHT OF STARS GALA AND AWARDS CEREMONY HITS THE PLAZA Photos courtesy of Sean Zanni/Patrick McMullan via Getty Images

Fashion Group International (FGI) welcomed leading lights of fashion, beauty, arts, culture and entertainment worlds to The Plaza for the 39th annual FGI Night of Stars red carpet gala and awards ceremony. The Plaza marked a new venue for the gala event – an iconic landmark befitting one of the fashion world’s most storied fashion organizations and historic, star-studded events. The chic crowd of fashion luminaries and celebrities walked the red carpet before enjoying a cocktail hour, followed by the seated dinner and awards presentations. The Night of Stars opened with remarks from FGI President and CEO Maryanne Grisz, FGI Chairman of the Board James D’Adamo, and Fashion Group Foundation President Matthew Trent, followed by an awards presentation featuring an illustrious list of honorees and presenters. Proenza Schouler Co-Founders and Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez received the Fashion Star Award, presented by Cathy Horyn, fashion critic-at-large, The Cut. Global Music Star and Co-Founder of the Maestro Cares Foundation Marc Anthony received the Humanitarian Award, presented by fashion designer Narciso Rodriguez. Gail Boyé, executive vice president, Innovation and Commercialization, Shiseido Americas, received the Beauty Innovation Award, presented by Ron Gee, president and CEO, Shiseido Americas. Fashion and culture thought leader Antoine Phillips received the Agent of Change Award, presented by model and activist Bethann Hardison. Fashion designer Dennis Basso received the Lifetime Achievement Award, presented by businesswoman, writer and television personality Martha Stewart. Whoopi Goldberg, Moderator of “The View,” internationally acclaimed EGOT-winning actress, producer and writer received the American Icon Award, presented by Gary Wassner, CEO of Hilldun Corporation. The FGI Night of Stars ticketed gala is the non-profit organization’s most important annual fundraiser. Night of Stars helps FGI raise vital funds for essential programming – including mentorship, education and professional development – and helps fund business grants, scholarships and critical industry resources that support FGI’s global network of emerging and established professionals in fashion, beauty, retail and related industries.

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FASHION FAVORITES

Clarins and Modern Luxury Celebrate Austin Formula One Grand Prix Photos courtesy of Photo by Rick Kern/Getty Images for Clarins

International prestige French beauty brand, Clarins, hosted an intimate dinner in Austin, Texas, in partnership with Modern Luxury’s newest title launch, Austin Way, to celebrate the Austin Grand Prix at the Circuit of The Americas. The celebratory dinner was co-hosted with international model Kelly Piquet, daughter of former F1 driver, Nelson Piquet, and partner of three-time Formula One World Champion, Red Bull Racing driver, Max Verstappen. Held at the newest Austin hotspot, Bill’s Oyster, the intimate event toasted the weekend with both international guests in town for F1 and local tastemakers, including models Olivia Ponton and Brooks Nader, Danica Patrick, Chief Brand Officer of FWRD and Revolve Raissa Gerona, Reneé Noe, philanthropist Andra Liemandt, Understated Leather designer Jen Kassell, Hannah Chody, Catherine Lockhart, Ethan and Amber Diamond and Austin Way Editor-in-Chief Kat Cotroneo. Celebrating an award-winning weekend, the beauty brand honored its newly minted Allure magazine award winners: Double Serum Light Texture and Lip Oils. These symbols of the House’s cutting-edge expertise and excellence was paralleled with Formula 1, a combination of sport and technological excellency.

John An

Renee Maudlena and Olivia Ponton Fernanda Romero

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Weronika Zalazinska, Green Gaskell

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FASHION FAVORITES

Brooks Nader and Danica Patrick

ntonini, Tina Edmundson, Larry Bruce

Kelly Piquet

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FASHION FAVORITES

Meena Harris, Orion Carloto, Gab Waller, Torin Ashtun, Marina Squerciati

Kristina O’Neill, Kate Foley

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FASHION FAVORITES

MYTHERESA AND ERDEM CELEBRATE PARTNERSHIP WITH INTIMATE DINNER Photos courtesy of Mytheresa on PRNewswire

Mytheresa and ERDEM hosted an intimate dinner at the iconic Chicago Cultural Center in the heart of downtown Chicago, IL. to celebrate their long-standing relationship and their first event in the market. The dinner was co-hosted by Mytheresa’s CEO, Michael Kliger and ERDEM Founder and Creative Director Erdem Moralıoglu. The dinner was attended by Amy Sall, Aurora James, Azeeza Khan, Brigette Lundy-Paine, Gab Waller, Ilana Torbiner, Jacquelyn Jablonski, Kristen Crawley, Kristina O’Neill, Kate Foley, Meena Harris and Sarita Choudhury, among others.

Jacquelyn Jablonski, Sarita Choudhury

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Kristen Noel Crawley

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THE ULTIMATE LUXURY GOLF CAR HAS ARRIVED Crafted from only the highest quality automotive materials, and through the most revolutionary design in the industry, Garia creates vehicles that perform even better than they look. Recognized as much for its functionality and usability as for its modern Scandinavian aesthetic, the Garia is not just your average golf cart. It’s a golf car.

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EXECUTIVE CHANGES

FASHION 411

KAREN HARVEY CONSULTING GROUP PROMOTES MAIA WOJCIK AND LAUREN DYER TO PARTNER, JENNA BLAHA APPOINTED GLOBAL MANAGING DIRECTOR Karen Harvey Consulting Group (KHC), one of the leading international executive search and brand advisory firms in fashion, luxury, lifestyle and beauty with offices in New York, London, Paris and L.A., announced the promotion of Maia Wojcik and Lauren Dyer to Partner, and the appointment of Jenna Blaha as Global Managing Director. These new appointments come as the company sees accelerated growth and a changing landscape for talent strategy for its clients and strategic partners. “It has truly been a once-in-a-lifetime journey working alongside this exceptional team. Their invaluable contributions have enabled me to build a company that provides an all-encompassing approach to brand transformation, recalibration and growth for our clients, yielding profound relevance and impact,” said Karen Harvey. “From the inception of my first company, the vision was to pioneer a new way of bringing talent and brand strategy together to build companies of the future. The work of building businesses is a highly collaborative endeavor, and not a solitary pursuit. This moment marks well-earned promotions for these extraordinary women, who have worked by my side for many years. Together, we’ve created a new model for guiding talent and brands in making creativity and commerce equally important.”

Karen Harvey

Maia Wojcik has worked alongside Harvey for 18 years previously serving as KHC’s Chief Brand Officer, while also serving in executive search and advisory capacities across the creative and marketing sectors. She is also the co-founder of KHC’s two initiatives, Fashion Tech Forum, a groundbreaking conference that serves as a dynamic platform for visionaries, industry leaders and innovators to converge, collaborate and shape the future of fashion and luxury, and INDX, a community platform connecting emerging digital, creative and marketing talent with brands and opportunities, globally. In her new role, she will oversee all aspects of the KHC brand and its Fashion Tech Forum initiative, while continuing to build the search practice, building client and talent relationships globally. Lauren Dyer joined KHC in 2012 after relocating to New York from London, where she had been working for Denza, an international fashion recruitment and consultancy firm. Dyer earned her BA with Honors in Fashion Marketing from Northumbria University in the UK, which provided her with a deep-rooted understanding of the fashion design process and a solid platform upon which to build her consulting career, specializing in design and creative search. In her new role as partner, she will continue to focus on placing high-level creative and design leaders while building the company’s creative practice across multiple sectors, internationally. Prior to her appointment as global managing director of executive search and the director of the media and collaborations division of KHC and Fashion Tech Forum, Jenna Blaha joined KHC in October 2021 as vice president of search, collaborations, editorial and partnerships. A journalist and culture expert, before joining KHC, she was the technology and fashion senior editor and strategic projects director at Elle (US) magazine, and a core part of the team brought in to refresh the brand through creative, talent and editorial content. Prior to that she was the founding technology editor at Marie Claire, where she authored a monthly column on technology trends and the future of fashion, beauty, retail and culture-at-large. Blaha also founded Danger Productions, a talent management and consulting company specializing in emerging design talent and creator culture.

Maia Wojcik

Jenna Blaha

KHC is an international executive search and advisory services firm with deep multi-industry expertise and an extraordinary network. With offices in New York, London, Paris and L.A., they partner with leading companies in their search for world-class talent, and bring a unique approach to advising clients on modern brand and talent strategies that serve today’s complex and dynamic consumer and business needs. With a core focus on executive search and advisory services for brands in fashion, luxury, lifestyle and beauty, KHC has earned global recognition for bringing some of the industry’s most successful CEOs, CMOs, creative leaders and collaborators to powerful global companies – changing the arc of their businesses today to recalibrate for the future.

Photo courtesy of Business Wire

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Lauren Dyer

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FASHION 411

FOOTWEAR

SKECHERS PRESIDENT MICHAEL GREENBERG NAMED PERSON OF THE YEAR Michael Greenberg, president of Skechers, The Comfort Technology Company™, has been named 2023 Person of the Year by leading trade publication “Footwear News” in its annual FN Achievement Awards (FNAA)—23 years after he first earned the honor in 2000. This award follows “Footwear News” previously naming Skechers as Company of the Year last year, as well as in 1998 and 2014. “Michael Greenberg has led Skechers to phenomenal new heights this year while maintaining a personal touch and important relationships across the industry,” said Michael Atmore, chief brand officer of Fairchild Media and editorial director for “Footwear News.” “His intuitive business sense is only matched by his philanthropic nature in what has turned out to be an incredible 2023 for the company.” The award was presented at the 2023 FNAA ceremony in New York. Skechers has also been recognized by “Footwear News” with 2009 Launch of the Year and 2013 Brand of the Year awards for its products, and Skechers CEO Robert Greenberg received a Lifetime Achievement Award from the publication in 2015. From fashion styles to lifestyle product and performance shoes for sport enthusiasts, Skechers’ offering is enhanced with the company’s signature comfort innovations—including its patented Skechers Hands Free Slip-ins® Technology, Skechers Arch Fit® Technology, Skechers Resagrip® Technology, Skechers Max Cushioning® Technology, Skechers Hyper Burst Pro™ Technology and Skechers Air-Cooled Memory Foam®. Photo courtesy of Business Wire

CROCS GOES COUNTRY WITH CLASSIC COWBOY BOOT

Crocs has revealed the Crocs Classy Cowboy Boot, a result of yearsworth of buzz around a Crocs-inspired cowboy boot that has created a fan-fueled movement trending across social media. Recognizing this passion, Crocs is making fan dreams come true, turning the Crocs Classic Cowboy Boot into a reality: a testament to the brand’s commitment to and celebration of Croc Nation. The Crocs Classic Cowboy Boot features a high shine croc-embossed texture and bold western-inspired stitching. The boot is embellished with unique metallic Jibbitz™ charms and a first-of-its-kind spin-able spur charm attached to the backstrap of the shoe. On the rivet detail, the iconic black and white Crocs logo of Duke, the brand’s beloved crocodile mascot, has gone country, sporting his very own cowboy hat. The Crocs Classic Cowboy Boot was available on Crocs.com and in select Crocs retail stores for a limited time.

Photo courtesy of Crocs, Inc. on PRNewswire

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BEAUTY

FASHION 411

CLARINS WINS TWO 2023 ALLURE BEST OF BEAUTY AWARDS Iconic French prestige beauty brand, Clarins, won two highly-coveted Allure Magazine 2023 Best of Beauty Awards. Out of thousands of products tested the Allure Beauty team recognized TikTok’s viral sensation, Clarins Lip Comfort Oil and Double Serum Light Texture – Clarins new twist on its best-selling serum. The undisputable expert in face and body oils, Clarins was one of the first beauty houses to introduce the concept of an “oil for the lips” in 2014. Today, with more than 135M views on Tik Tok, #ClarinsLipOil has become one of the top lip oils in the market. Clarins Double Serum Light Texture boasts its very own 4.7 stars as rated by consumers. Formulated to suit combination and oily skin types, this new version of Clarins’ iconic Double Serum is powered by the same innovation, the same 21 plant extracts to deliver the same benefits: visibly firmer, smoother, more radiant skin in just seven days. This lightweight texture is also ideal for humid climates. Allure’s Best of Beauty Award is considered one of the most prestigious and influential distinctions in the beauty industry, that signifies beauty excellence, efficacy and integrity. Over the last 27 years, the Allure team has spent months testing beauty innovations to identify the absolute best and most outstanding products on the market.

Photo courtesy of Clarins USA on PRNewswire

IRENE FORTE SKINCARE LAUNCHES BREAKTHROUGH REJUVENATING SERUM Irene Forte Skincare announces the launch of its most anticipated product to date, the Phytomelatonin Rejuvenating Serum. Dr. Francesca Ferri, the brand’s scientific director and a pioneer in the medical use of plant extracts for skin treatment, has dedicated thirty-five years in the culmination of the serum’s launch. It boasts Alpine Plant Melatonin, a patent extract of Phytomelatonin. Since the discovery of Phytomelatonin in 1993, Dr. Ferri’s research has shown that it has a fundamental role in plant cells, most notably promoting growth, responding to stressors, delaying biological aging and regulating oxidative processes.

Photo courtesy of Irene Forte Skincare on PRNewswire

This trailblazing serum with 70% Alpine Plane Melatonin is a radical step forward in natural skincare. Phytomelatonin can triple the viability of skin cells and re-regulate biochemical processes that stressors like age and ultraviolet exposure have knocked out of balance. In independent clinical trials, signs of skin aging were visibly reduced. Amongst others, wrinkle volume, brown spots and pore visibility showed significant decreases after four weeks. This product achieves these effects while reducing redness and blemishes. It is also approved for sensitive skin. The Phytomelatonin Rejuvenating Serum retails for $290 and is exclusively available to purchase at ireneforteskincare.com.

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COLLECTIONS

FASHION 411

WILBUR: REBIRTH OF THE AMERICAN LUXURY BRAND WILBUR Watch Co. has a vision for the future of time telling. This vision is built from the dreams of machines. Machines can dream? Yes, they can. These dreams manifest themselves in the form of watches, designed in the USA and full of life. These are not mere watches, but “wrist art” for those looking toward the future. The new WILBUR LEO timepiece, the JW1.5 is the fifth in the award-winning series of WILBUR’s most daring designs. Designed by Jason Wilbur, founder, engineer and award-winning designer, the LEO exemplifies the brand mission and represents it in its most physical state. The LEO is truly born from dreams of machines. The LEO JW1.5 is made in Switzerland with the Wilbur Engine One automatic jump-hour movement. The 8-part case is capped in anti-reflective sapphire on front and back and comes in black titanium and titanium nitrate, champagne gold. The patent-pending LEO JW1.5 is limited to 25 pieces and retails for $36,500.

Photo courtesy of PRNewswire

E.L.F. COSMETICS AND LATIN ARTIST MANUEL TURIZO CELEBRATE EVERY OJO, LABIO AND CARA Manuel Turizo, one of the brightest stars in Latin music, is partnering with e.l.f. Cosmetics, Gen Z’s #1 makeup brand*. The result is a new original, Spanish-language song titled “ojos. labios. cara.,” which translates in English to “eyes. lips. face.,” and is out now. “At e.l.f., we celebrate every ojo, labio y cara,” said Kory Marchisotto, chief marketing officer at e.l.f. Beauty. “Our Latinx and Hispanic fans are among our most passionate e.l.f. enthusiasts. This song is created for them, to shine a spotlight on their creativity, to amplify their voices and to give them a stage to live their bold truths.” With the help of their creative agency Madwell, e.l.f. tapped a fellow bold disruptor with a kind heart, Manuel Turizo. With 25+ platinum hits on the Latin Billboard charts—his recent collaboration with Shakira, “Copa Vacia,” currently peaking at #1 on the Latin Airplay Chart—and over 20 million followers across TikTok and Instagram, this 23-year-old uses his extensive platform and intimate connection with his fanbase to advocate for equality and empowerment. Manuel speaks and sings passionately about self-confidence, champions women, salutes individual expression and lends his megaphone to the voices most in need of amplification. A shining embodiment of strong ethics, Manuel lives, breathes and sings the e.l.f. ethos. Photo courtesy of Business Wire

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“What Alexis does is an art. She planned an unforgettable and amazing trip for my wife and I to the Greek Isles. Everything was planned to a “T” and her expertise is second to none.” - Ryan C.

THE DESTINATION DESIGNER @thedestinationdesigner www.thedestinationdesigner.com 26 | FM January 2024

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FINANCE

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Photo courtesy of Unsplash

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FINANCE

FLASHBACK PART 8:

20th Century Fashion History Los Angeles BY RONALD S. FRIEDMAN, CPA Hello Again! Here we are at the beginning of 2024; another year has just flown by. It is hard to imagine that just a few years after the outbreak of Covid, the business world has undergone significant changes. Do you remember when everyone came to the office and talked to each other? Lunch meetings were happening in every city in the country. People met in person and got to know each other. With fewer people coming into offices, things have grown quieter. It makes you wonder: what’s going to happen now? Will we all just start working from home, living our lives on Zoom and email? I have concerns about how all these changes will impact the fashion industry. Are we seeing business people starting new fashion companies? Who will be the rising stars of the future? I do not have the answers to these questions, but I am not seeing new start-up companies, and the cost to begin a new business requires substantial capital investments. When I began my career in public accounting in 1971, apparel companies were my clients. I really enjoyed walking into the showrooms and seeing all the new and exciting collections. Every week, a new apparel company was born, with designers and sales personnel leaving existing companies to venture out on their own. These people grew small entities into large apparel companies. Why were they successful? They had quality apparel and a market where everyone always wanted something new. Fashion was in, and people always wore new clothing to work. Today, we work from home and rarely appear at the office. We sit at our desks from morning till night, and the work gets done. We may be very productive working from home, but we are also losing our social skills. Are we dressing up when we work at home? Hardly! We sit in our shorts with a T-shirt, nothing fancy here. If I am

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not getting dressed up, why buy more apparel to sit in the closet for the few times I go out? I see this as the major problem for the fashion industry. The only way to see a change is for employers to require employees to return to the office. We may never get back to five days a week in the office, but I hope we can get back to four days a week. This will improve our knowledge base as we talk and learn from each other. The real collaboration will happen when we are all together. Getting back to the office will revitalize the fashion industry. People will be dressing up again. No, I do not expect men’s suits to come back, but I do hope to see business attire return to the office, and retailers will be the benefactors. We are seeing a few major corporations requiring their employees to return to the office or find other jobs. So employers, if you are reading this article, let’s help the fashion industry and get our staff back to the office. In my previous articles, I’ve mentioned that the manufacturing industry has largely moved overseas and may never return. As a result, we now import almost all of our apparel from abroad. I am starting to see clients moving production from China to other countries. It’s hard to predict whether this will be successful, but it’s important to remember that things don’t usually happen overnight. In every article, I like to look back at the apparel industry from the 1970s through the 1990s. I would walk through the apparel district in downtown Los Angeles and see one sewing factory after another. Downtown was vibrant and alive, with actual factories sewing goods. One of my clients was Mervin Kurtzman, who owned LeBaron Suits. Mervin made custom suits, and I wore nothing but his suits to the office. I always feel great when a suit fits perfectly, and it is not

so easy to get today. I remember sitting with Mervin on a regular basis as he would determine the actual cost of producing a suit. We would go from department to department, determining the cost of each production phase. The production costing would go from cutting, lining, fusing, sewing, pressing and warehousing. Each cost had to be exact to determine the total cost of labor, and then we had to calculate the cost of manufacturing overhead to be applied to each suit. Every year, the cost just kept escalating to the point where you could not produce a competitively priced suit in the United States. Suit manufacturing started to move offshore. I started working with another suit manufacturer who created a specific pattern for me which was sent to Singapore for production. The fit and quality were great and the price was right. For those who still wear suits, you can now expect them to be produced overseas as I do not expect suits to be produced domestically. The Marcum Retail Symposium will be on April 18, 2024, in downtown Los Angeles, with Marshal Cohen returning for another great discussion of trends in the marketplace that will impact all of our business. Also, a special thank you to Jeff Mann for his continued support of Marcum and the Retail Symposium. Until next time, remember what I always conclude with—if you are not having fun, then do something else!

Ronald S. Friedman, CPA, is an advisory and assurance partner in the Los Angeles office of Marcum LLP and a retail practice leader in the Firm’s Consumer & Industrial Products group. Contact him at Ronald.friedman@marcumllp. com.

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GINA SABIO

Licensed as Virginia Sabio | Licensed Associate Real Estate Broker

“Luxury Begins Here”

- GS

C: 917-325-8147 | O: 212-590-2473 GSabio@christiesrealestategroup.com | christiesrealestategroup.com Christie’s International Real Estate Group 1 Rockefeller Plaza #2402 | New York, NY 10020


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Expertly designed financing Capital One® Commercial Banking offers you the financial services your business needs to succeed. You get customized solutions designed by a dedicated team of Consumer Products bankers with a combined track record of more than 75 years in the apparel, footwear, accessories and beauty sectors—and they’re backed by the full-services capabilities of a top 10 U.S. bank.* Let us create a solution that matches your vision.

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*Note: Rank excludes banks with high non-loan asset concentrations: Goldman Sachs, Morgan Stanley, BONY, State Street, Charles Schwab. Ranks as of 9/30/2019. Based upon total gross loans and total aggregated domestic deposits for bank holding company. Sources: SNL, FDIC, company reports. Products and services are offered by Capital One, N.A., NMLS ID 453156, Equal Housing Lender and Member FDIC. © 2020 Capital One. mannpublications.com

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FEATURE

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Photomannpublications.com courtesy of Prata & Mastrale


Photo courtesy of Sartoria Studio

Prata & Mastrale Milano Hits Sartoria Menswear Lounge Sartoria Studio, the premier SoHo menswear lounge on W. Houston Street, hosted Prata & Mastrale Milano in a trunk show event during the fall. Sartoria Studio, a menswear supplier of tailored, ready-towear clothing, offers bespoke customization services that delivers a sense of personality and individualism to any man’s wardrobe. Prata & Mastrale’s Milanese aesthetic seamlessly blends into Sartoria Studio’s offerings. With bespoke suits and tailoring crafted from 100% Made in Italy production, Prata & Mastrale delivers La Dolce Vita to SoHo. Unparalleled silhouettes are at the heart of Prata & Mastrale’s expertise, and crafts Italian-fit suits, jackets and accessories at the

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highest level of European sophistication. Sartoria Studio embodies Prata & Mastrale’s slow-living approach to fashion, with a lounge designed by James Mansour and an overall dedication to luxurious aesthetic. Founded in 2011 by Aldo Invitti, Prata & Mastrale delivers Milanese tailoring expertise cultivated by world-renown stylists influenced by this iconic hub of European fashion. With a location in Milan’s fashion district, Prata & Mastrale is also informed by tailors from Neapolitan schools, blending the best of overall Italian tailoring from craftsman throughout the peninsula.

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FEATURE

MADE IN AMERICA

The Ghurka story begins at an antiquities auction in the early 1970s where the company’s founder, Marley Hodgson, fueled by his love of history and leather craft, bid on campaign gear made for a Ghurka regimental officer stationed in India during the early 1900s. Inspired by the rugged elegance and workmanship of the 75-year-old leather, Hodgson made his first bag, a leather knapsack, for his young son. Ghurka continues to cater to what Hodgson called the “quiet confidence and adventurous spirit” of the Ghurka client. The assortment of iconic designs and new classics are made not to withstand life’s adventures, but to be molded by them, making each bag a unique heirloom. Robert Williams, president of Ghurka, said, “We have been handcrafting timeless classics since 1975, now we are at an exciting trajectory of the company’s history as we begin to launch our luxury collections to specialty and department stores nationwide and internationally at Tomorrowland Japan. We are fortunate to have our talented Creative Director, John Truex, painstakingly restoring our archival silhouettes, elevating and updating them to today’s standards. He’s now creating new lifestyle & leisure styles that include bags for golf and tennis. In addition, Ghurka is adding new team members in sales, marketing and e-commerce to support this exciting brand growth in all areas.” At Ghurka, the mission is to create iconic American designs to accompany a life well-lived. They work with the finest craftsmen within the U.S. and Europe and look to create more opportunities for the next generation of leather craftsmen through production expansion, skilled training and employee education.

A Ghurka bag operates in all worlds equally and admirably from east to west, from city to country. A Ghurka bag is as international as it is American, as cosmopolitan as it is local, as rooted in history as it is consistently changing. Every mark recalls a past adventure and creates anticipation for the next journey. “It is important for me to layer in new ideas – as long as it fits into the Ghurka DNA. We are working around a feeling of lightness and soft construction to compliment the heritage collection that Ghurka is known for,” said Creative Director John Truex. True style doesn’t change from season to season; it’s timeless. Pieces like a little black dress or jeans and a white tee shirt are always fashionable and never go out of style. In the same way, Ghurka creates classic, reliable pieces that you can always count on to look and feel great. They’re ageless, can be worn for decades and elevate whatever you wear them with. As with many things in life, a Ghurka only gets better with age and experience. A lived-in and well-loved Ghurka becomes marked with moments large and small—what you reach for to remember past journeys and light the spark for future endeavors. For nearly half a century, the iconic designs have been trusted companions for some of the world’s most influential leaders, athletes and celebrities.

Photos courtesy of Ghurka

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FEATURE

GHURKA LEATHER GHURKA LEATHER GHURKA LEATHER GHURKA LEATHER GHURKA LEATHER GHURKA LEATHER GHURKA LEATHER GHURKA LEATHER GHURKA LEATHER GHURKA LEATHER mannpublications.com

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FEATURE

CASTRO NYC

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FEATURE

SIR KING CASTRO RELAUNCHES CASTRO NYC, A TESTAMENT TO FINE JEWELRY INNOVATION

astro NYC, a name synonymous with visionary artistry in the world of fine jewelry, has been set to embark on an exhilarating new chapter under the stewardship of Sir King Castro, child of the legendary jewelry designer Terry Castro. The relaunch brings forth a fusion of Castro’s unmatched creative legacy and Sir King Castro’s fresh perspective, culminating in a collection of awe-inspiring pieces that redefine the boundaries of wearable art. Terry Castro’s journey as a jewelry designer was marked by an unwavering passion for crafting pieces that transcend conventional artistry. His creations, distinguished by a liberal use of opulent gemstones and intricate hand-details, tell unique stories that captivate hearts and minds. Drawing inspiration from a diverse array of global cultures and personal experiences, Castro’s designs evoke a sense of wonder and leave an indelible mark. Castro understood that jewelry is more than an accessory; it is an embodiment of emotions, a testament to the power of craftsmanship and a celebration of life’s cherished moments. This insight propelled him to im merse himself in gemology, metalworking and design, allowing his talent to blossom and earning him accolades from the industry. A rising star, Terry Castro’s commitment to excellence and passion for pushing the boundaries of design attracted a devoted clientele, ranging from influential personalities to discerning connoisseurs of fine art. Each creation bearing the Castro name became a coveted treasure, sought after by those yearning to wear artful jewels. Sir King Castro, the torchbearer of Castro NYC, has embarked on a mission to share their father’s story and carry forward the legacy of the iconic brand. Born and raised in the world of jewelry, Sir King represented

Castro at the prestigious Sotheby’s Black and Brilliant event in London in 2021, marking the beginning of their journey to preserve and celebrate Castro’s artistic vision. Sir King’s journey is deeply rooted in the world of jewelry. Growing up, they split their time between Ohio and New York City, immersing themselves in the artistry of their father, often assisting with street-side jewelry sales in SoHo and making small repairs in Castro’s Harlem studio. This hands-on experience led to a profound understanding of the craft. “I want to share Castro NYC’s story with the world, so people can find inspiration,” said Sir King Castro. Regarding the brand’s position in the industry, Castro said, “I see Castro NYC jewels as rare collectible sculptures more than I see them as just jewelry.” After attending the Toledo School for the Arts in Ohio and then the Chicago College of Performing Arts pursuing a BFA in theater, Sir King’s artistic journey took a transformative turn. In 2016, Castro relocated to Istanbul, Turkey, and his work began to reach new heights. Sir King soon followed suit, at the behest of their father, to join Castro in Istanbul as his apprentice. Dropping out of college in 2019, Sir King made the move to Istanbul to learn under their father. There, Sir King was taught the tightly held secrets which give Castro’s jewels their signature look. In the workshops of Istanbul, they diligently observed Castro and Old-World jewelry masters fully immersed in the craft. Tragically, Castro passed away unexpectedly in 2022, leaving behind a thriving brand. Sir King, driven by a passion to share their father’s story and continue his artistic legacy, relocated to New York City eight months later. As part of the brand relaunch, Castro NYC has an exciting partnership with Carpenters Workshop Gallery, a world-renowned gallery with locations in London, Paris, New York and LA. Castro NYC finds its place in the gallery among avant-garde designers, such as Michèle Lamy and Jacqueline Rabun. The collaboration will culminate in a retrospective featuring Castro NYC’s iconic pieces, set to debut in 2024 at their London gallery, Ladbroke Hall. During New York Fashion Week, Castro NYC featured the gallery’s Manhattan space as the elegant backdrop for its brand relaunch imagery. Sir King Castro is on a mission to share their father’s inspirational story with the world, carrying forward the legacy of Castro NYC. They have re-established working relationships with the brand’s master jewelry workshops in Istanbul, where the intricate craftsmanship that defined Terry Castro’s creations will continue to flourish. While there are sketches and ideas that have yet to be brought to life, Sir King acknowledges the importance of taking the time to honor their father’s legacy properly: “We are a small family business, and I want to keep it that way.”

Photos courtesy of Castro NYC

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As the world eagerly awaits the renaissance of Castro NYC, the brand’s commitment to timeless artistry and innovation remains unwavering. With Sir King Castro at the helm, the legacy continues to evolve, ensuring that each creation is not just a piece of jewelry but a masterpiece that captures the essence of Terry Castro’s extraordinary vision.

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FASHION AT HOME

BANANA REPUBLIC LAUNCHES BR HOME

Banana Republic’s minimalist aesthetic has come to the home with the launch of BR Home. This new interior design line marks a milestone in the brand’s transformation as a leading destination for the modern explorer. The BR Home collection, expanding across bedroom, living room and dining room furniture as well as lighting and home décor, showcases materials and craftsmanship from around the world, building on the quality expressed through the brand’s ready-to-wear lines. Following the home textile categories that launched earlier this spring, the newly created collection is crafted from the most premium materials, such as French Oak, marble, brass, plush cotton cashmere and

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organic cotton, sourced and created by skilled global artisans who specialize in the use of these elements. Designed for customers’ multifaceted lives, these timeless designs will support the customer’s journey in a life well lived. The BR Home collection features three key expressions representing individual design aesthetics that can holistically coexist together for modern living. Textured Modern invites the blend of the classic and contemporary, featuring clean lines, smooth finishes, mixed materials and minimalist aesthetics for an elevated look. Classic Chic combines traditional forms with signature shapes and finishes that echo

the past in contemporary light to give spaces a sophisticated and harmonious feel. Explore is rooted in global influences that capture the essence of global artisanal craftsmanship and embroideries. Inspired by natural materials and organic elements, this line features earth tones and natural finishes for a grounded type setting. The BR Home collection showcases signature design details, warm, textural layers, natural materials and traditional production techniques, and the hand of the artisans and makers. Stinson Collection: Each piece of upholstery is bench-made by master craftsmen in North Carolina and

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Virginia, and each frame is made with sustainably sourced hardwoods built to last. The hardwood-framed sofa features exaggerated armrests that offer durability, visual impact and comfort, elevating its aesthetic appeal. It is a captivating and versatile addition to any living space, combining style and functionality. The Stinson sofa is custom-made and available in several configurations.

FASHION AT HOME Photos courtesy of Gap Inc. and Banana Republic on PRNewswire

Marquis and Savannah Collections: These unique, contemporary and modern dining collections were developed from the brand’s experimentation with European oak and the creation of depth and movement from textures and patterns in the grain. The use of large pieces of solid oak with simple organic shapes allows for an emotional attachment to nature and the primordial. The timber that is sourced for these pieces is part of the fabric of rural communities and sequesters huge amounts of carbon. Atlas Moroccan Rugs Collection: Hand-knotted with the finest wool by different artisans in the Middle Atlas Mountains of Morocco, the rugs collection creates patterns for the modern home inspired by designs that are centuries old. Phoenix Collection: Born from several collaborations with woodcarvers on the island of Java, Indonesia, these pieces combine finely handcarved Java teak and mahogany door surfaces with simple and clean furniture shapes. The collection comes in two variations: stripe and organic diamond. Nova Collection: Featuring hand-rolled, handmade clay beading, these emotional and distinctive chandeliers carry the fingerprints of the women making them. This striking collection is bound to be a beautiful focal point in any home. The BR Home collection debuted with a dedicated website at brhome.com and in select U.S. stores, including two BR Home pop-up experiences in New York City and Los Angeles. Prices vary across the collection from $150 for vases to $195 for washed cotton sheet sets and $1,250 to $3,450 for dining furniture and sofas ranging from $2,650 to $4,950.

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FEATURE

Photos courtesy of Landon Cooper

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FEATURE

WITHit Has Your New Year Tech Needs From sleek leather Apple AirPods covers to a variety of colors for your next Apple watch, WITHit offers the best-in-style tech accessories to blend fashion with efficiency. Leather Cover for Apple AirPods Pro® $35.00 Designed for sophistication and durability, nothing elevates your Apple AirPods Pro® quite like a leather cover from WITHit. This case features custom cutouts for easy charging and battery access, as well as a spring clip to secure your device to keys, backpacks, handbags and more.

decked out in a splash of Serene Blue, Energy Green or Radiant Pink. These funky, two-toned straps are a fusion of fashion-forward design and top-notch quality. Picture vibrant acetate weaving through the finest metal links.These fabulously colorful straps fit your Apple Watch like a charm (pun intended!). But these aren’t your run-of-the-mill bands; they’re oozing style and individuality. These fun and flirty bands are high quality with bright pops of color. The tapered band is easily extended or shortened and integrates seamlessly with your device.

Happy Charm Set $15.00 Bling for your band? That’s Band Candy. These adorable little charms easily pop into the holes on our specially designed smooth keeperless Apple Watch bands to give your device an extra boost of fun and personality. Get smiling with Happy, which features a fun smiley face, joyful rainbow, “yay” speech bubble and yummy ice cream cone. Band Candy Metal Two-Toned Strap for Apple Watch - Serene Blue $25.00 The new Band Candy Two-Tone Metal and Color Acetate bands for Apple Watch were designed in a spectrum of shades to perfectly capture and enhance your every mood. Imagine your wrist

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COVER FEATURE

MARE AZZURRO WASHES FROM

LE VIAN By Laurie Melchionne Mediterranean waters glimmer within each facet of Mare Azzurro, Le Vian’s latest jewelry masterpiece. With stones in Sea Blue Aquamarine, Blueberry Tanzanite and Deep Sea Blue Topaz, the collection reflects the ocean’s varied spectrum of blue. Translating to “blue sea” in Italian, Mare Azzurro’s homage to the sea turns the wearer into “all things water”: infinite mystery like the sea’s deepest depths, shimmering exoticism like Capri’s turquoise Blue Grotto and elegant tranquility like the pale seafoam that caresses Sorrentino shores. A deep gaze into the sparkling diamonds in this collection reveals the evolving shades of water found around the Mediterranean’s remote beaches of La Calanque, the setting of the collection’s initial inspiration. Showcased on location among the jagged rocks and teal waves of La Calanque, the collection marked the first time in ten years that a luxury company brought its campaign to remote shores. At the top of a cliff before sunrise, the logistics of the shoot turned the face of Mare Azzurro into a bold undertaking, something that the pendants, rings and earrings themselves envisioned from the start.

Mare Azzurro embodies a manifesto that tells a distinct story.

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COVER FEATURE Photos courtesy of Le Vian

Mediterranean waters glimmer within each facet of Mare Azzurro, LeVian’s latest jewelry masterpiece. With stones in Sea Blue Aquamarine, Blueberry Tanzanite and Deep Sea Blue Topaz, the collection reflects the ocean’s varied spectrum of blue. Translating to “blue sea” in Italian, Mare Azzurro’s homage to the sea turns the wearer into “all things water”: infinite mystery like the sea’s deepest depths, shimmering exoticism like Capri’s turquoise Blue Grotto and elegant tranquility like the pale seafoam that caresses Sorrentino shores. A deep gaze into the sparkling diamonds in this collection reveals

the evolving shades of water found around the Mediterranean’s remote beaches of La Calanque, the initial inspiration of the collection. Showcased on location among the jagged rocks and teal waves of La Calanque, the collection marked the first time in ten years that a luxury company brought its campaign to remote shores. At the top of a cliff before sunrise, the logistics of the shoot turned the face of Mare Azzurro into a bold undertaking, something that the pendants, rings and earrings themselves envisioned from the start.

Photos courtesy of Jack Victor

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COVER FEATURE

“It took a painstaking process of doing many layouts of gems until we were able to find the combinations and patterns that worked together to create that effect.” - Eddie LeVian, CEO and designer

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COVER FEATURE Photos courtesy of LeVian

“A parallel was drawn between the magnetic characteristics that draw us to the water and the characteristics that draw us to a beautiful woman,” explained Eddie LeVian, CEO and designer at Le Vian. In LeVian’s own words, the collection conjures an image of “the captivating woman, the beautiful siren, who comes out of the water like a mermaid and hypnotizes you like the beautiful water that we yearn for when we want to escape our everyday lives.” People, like mermaids, are drawn to the sea as if called by the siren’s song itself. The first thing we think of when it’s time to get away is a seafront world; in no place is the sea’s exotic peace more brilliantly reflected than in the Mediterranean, from which the collection derives its very heart and soul. “We set out to create an artistic expression of ‘She is All Things Water’ by combining different shapes, cuts and colors of four different blue gems in a tapestry that mimics the changing blue hues as the sun moves through the day,” explained LeVian. “It took a painstaking process of doing many layouts of gems until we were able to find the combinations and patterns that worked together to create that effect.” Like Venus emerging from the seafoam, the collection was born within a year alongside a partnership with Jared. The world’s largest seller of Tanzanite, Le Vian uses this unique gem for its exclusive Trillion cut, which is at the core of Mare Azzurro’s reflective nature and allows this tri-chroic gem to change color depending on the light’s angle. Light-dependant color defines the sea’s changing hues and, for the first time beyond water, defines Mare Azzurro, as well.

Le Vian Earrings from the Marre Azzurro Collection

A notable item is the Le Vian Pendant. This necklace twinkles with carats of Blue Topaz, Deep Sea Blue Topaz, Blueberry Tanzanite, Blueberry Zircon and Nude Diamonds set in Vanilla Gold. When draped around the wearer’s neck, this piece undulates and shimmers like the sea’s rolling blues, crystal and aquatic. While Mare Azzurro marks a new, tidal horizon, it also features elements that mark it distinctly LeVian. “This is the first major non-chocolate diamond collection of Le Vian outside of the Le Vian High Jewelry Collection,” said LeVian. All Jared doors open with this collection and is the face of the company’s first TV commercial after the pandemic. Notably, the collection is also the first time Le Vian launched a campaign and TV commercial in 25 years that did not involve its signature Chocolate Diamonds.

Le Vian Bangle from the Marre Azzurro Collection

Cutting a variety of blue gem combinations, while ensuring that the different shades blend, not clash, required meticulous craftsmanship. Specific intention flashes in each piece; LeVian wanted the collection to be so captivating that the moment it is worn, the wearer is “transported to a sandy beach surrounded by the blue sea and sky that you have been yearning for.” Mare Azzurro is more than newness washed to shore by the ebb and flow of sea waves. For Le Vian, it tells a story of tranquility and sensuality that can’t be matched by traditional jewelry collections based on sophistication alone. Mare Azzurro reminds the wearer of the marine landscapes surrounding us, its ever-evolving spectrums and that, through Le Vian, she is all things water. Le Vian Pendant from the Marre Azzurro Collection

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Photos courtesy of Jack Victor

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BRIDAL FEATURE

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BRIDAL FEATURE

ATELIER BIANCA HITS BRIDAL SEASON WITH THE RIVIERA Inspired by the timeless elegance and romantic allure of the French and Italian Rivieras, this collection embodies the essence of Mediterranean luxury and the effortless sophistication of this iconic region. The collection debuted at New York Bridal Week, and truly became a show-stopper with its unique combination of world-world aesthetic and modern, sleek silhouettes. Each gown in this collection was created with exquisite craftsmanship. Delicate lace, striking silhouettes and intricate sheer detailing will transport any bride to the luxurious ateliers of the Mediterranean on their special day. With one-of-a-kind touches, the Riviera Collection will let your love story unfold and compliment your style, elegance and aesthetic for a truly unforgettable wedding day.

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Photo courtesy of Atelier Bianca

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FEATURE Sana Crown is a bold, fearless and unapologetic jewelry brand that inspires women and young girls to don their own crowns. With luxurious pieces at an affordable price point, Sana Crown embodies the cultural significance of jewelry intertwined with its commitment to philanthropy and social impact. Sana Crown’s one-of-a-kind pieces are thoughtfully designed and inspired by women. Each design is created with women in mind, aiming to share their unique stories. Every collection carries a profound narrative, intricately woven with symbols and details that reflect these stories. The designs are brought to life through talented artisans in Turkey and Ethiopia. Each piece is meticulously crafted to pay homage to the rich tapestry of culture, history and the narratives of women. These creations seamlessly blend tradition with a modern twist, preserving the timeless beauty of heritage and the stories it holds. The brand was created by Sana Ahmed in Toronto. The designer is deeply rooted in her African and Middle Eastern heritage. The name Sana means “radiant one” in Arabic, and together with “crown,” it pays tribute to the brand philosophy; encouraging girls and women to recognize the power in their own “crowns.” Jewelry played a significant role in Ahmed’s upbringing. In Ethiopia, jewelry was intricately tied to identity, serving as a means to determine a woman’s regional origin. It also played an integral role in Ahmed’s daily life as she observed her mother and aunts adorning specific pieces for various occasions. These jewelry items held special significance, often being cherished pieces brought from their homeland. Sana Crown hopes to spotlight the exceptional craftsmanship hailing from regions such as Africa and the Middle East. The brand also challenges the conventional perceptions of craftsmanship, often unfairly attributed to other parts of the world. Ahmed believes that jewelry is more than just a fashion statement; it serves as a powerful medium for storytelling. Philanthropy was another central aspect of Ahmed’s upbringing. She devoted her time to volunteering at various organizations and even launched initiatives of her own. With roots in countries that had often struggled for sovereignty, particularly women’s rights, Ahmed was driven by a deep desire to make a lasting impact on the world. After discovering the concept of social enterprise, she found inspiration in merging all her passions and values into creating Sana Crown. Women empowerment is a central pillar of Sana Crown’s mission. The brand’s vision is to harness the transformative power of fashion, catalyzing change and redefining the luxury jewelry industry. To bring this vision to life, Sana Crown has established a meaningful partnership with a school in northern Ethiopia, which paves the path for girls to access education in a place where female education is typically denied. With every sale, a portion of proceeds is dedicated to supporting the education of young women at this institution. Ahmed is driven by her deep desire to make a lasting impact on the world. Sana Crown became the embodiment of Sana Ahmed’s vision, where the cultural significance of jewelry intertwined with her commitment to philanthropy and social impact. It was a venture driven by a desire to empower women and communities while celebrating the beauty and meaning behind every piece of jewelry.

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FEATURE

NAT U R A

ZIMMERMANN’S SPRING 2024 COLLECTION Zimmermann’s Spring 2024 ready-to-wear collection, Natura, debuted last fall during Paris Fashion Week. A study in nature, each look breathes life into the colors, textures and movement of the natural world with reverence and awe. “For Spring 2024, we were inspired by the simple beauty of nature through various art forms,” said Creative Director Nicky Zimmermann. “For key collection prints, we were drawn to the lovely, unexpected color combinations of abstract landscape colourists and mixed these with the more scientific mood of classic botanist art against clean white backdrops. We also explored the visual symmetry that is found in nature and looked to 3D naturalist sculptures for inspiration in creating detail, shape and movement. The collection direction is clean and fresh, with a strong expression of color, sculptural silhouettes and a variety of textures.” Stepping out of the pages of a botanist’s sketch book are flora illustrations in sheer prints and 3D tendrils that dance with the movement of the wearer. Swooping sleeves and tiered skirts give breathing room for floral prints en masse; while draped bodices respect the organic, asymmetric shapes found in nature. Ombre silk-scarf silhouettes traverse the gradient of the landscape, in dresses and co-ord sets that catch the wind. Practical urban silhouettes compliment Zimmermann’s signature uber-feminine dresses. Boxy shirts and boiler suits in stiff flecked cotton; and shirt dresses and cropped jackets in smooth nappa leather explore earthy textures in shades of toffee and sand. Summer tailoring in cotton poplin and denim separates inject a harmonious palette of washed blue, soft coral, mint, lemon sorbet and lilac. Laser-cut fabric flowers grow like sculptural gardens along hemlines, across bodices and patent corsages. Airy silk linen organza gowns are backless and cool, designed to be worn with dramatic ease, while full circle strapless styles are made for fun; dotted with hand-printed Magnolias and Orchids. A vibrant tomato red rounds out the collection; a burst of energy in playful, petal-skirt minis, statement summer maxi dresses and patent heels; a visual delight for the fashion bowerbird.

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FEATURE Photos courtesy of Zimmermann

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THE FASHION MANNUSCRIPT PRESENTS:

TECHWEAR Bringing you the latest breakthroughs in software, I.T. and fashion technology. From creative solutions to insights from experts, we are the source for all things fashion tech.

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Photo courtesy FM | 57 January 2024of Unsplash


TECH

MULDOONEYS AND 3D AG UNVEIL THE FUTURE OF LUXURY:

THE PROVENANCE TIME CAPSULE ON POLYGON BLOCKCHAIN Muldooneys, the luxury leather goods tech start-up known for exploring the intersection of savoir-faire, technology, design and fashion, has unveiled a new paradigm in luxury: The Provenance Time Capsule. This pioneering feature ushers in a new era of luxury, incorporating blockchain, linked with a tamper-proof hologram key that documents the digital footprints of each product through the intricate supply chain, while authenticating its provenance. Time, Virtue, Luxury: A Transformative Journey Nestled within 3D AG’s proprietary brand authentication solution, soorce3D on the polygon blockchain, the Provenance Time Capsule is more than a technological advance; it offers a journey into ethical sourcing. Each time capsule encircles a beguiling time loop, supplier heritage and unique artisanal craftsmanship safeguarded by the precision of Swiss-made holograms. Provenance Revolutionized The Meenakshi Pret a Porter collection incorporates the Provenance Time Capsule. The capsule is the final piece in the blockchain supply chain innovation model, which transcends mere functionality. It invites customers to forge a deeper connection with supplier heritage and their rich stories while preserving the timeless knowledge of traditional savoir-faire onto the polygon blockchain. Moreover, this innovation features a brand authentication benefit, activated when customers register their purchase within the vault using our Swiss-made holograms, creating an unbreakable bond. A Legacy of Heritage At the heart of each Muldooneys creation beats a profound connection to history. The products, from their conceptual storyboards to supplier heritage to French savoir-faire, are enshrined within a blockchain-powered continuum. The Provenance Time Capsule serves as the guardian of this cultural treasure, and an unequivocal testament to Muldooneys’ commitment to upholding transparency in the product journey, with a bridge between the rich tapestry of tradition and limitless possibilities of technology. The Power of Holography With this collaboration with 3D AG, the Swiss technology experts in brand authentication holography, Muldooneys has ushered in a revolution that safeguards the authenticity of its products and celebrates their provenance. Unlike NFC chips (RFID) which are susceptible to tampering, Muldooneys’ holograms unobtrusively provide unparalleled security and authenticity for customers, in addition to the legacy of heritage Muldooneys has vaulted within its Provenance Time Capsule. 3D AG’s solution leveraging holographic technology within Muldooneys’ blockchain supply chain model shows greater sophistication, demonstrating how authenticity, provenance, traceability and transparency harmoniously coexist through the power of holography, within the IoT (Internet of Things).


TECH

Photo courtesy of Getty Images/Brian Ach

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TECHNAVIO PREDICTS METAVERSE IN FASHION TO GROW BY $6.61 BILLION FROM 2021 TO 2026 The “Metaverse in the Fashion Market by Platform and Geography (North America, APAC, Europe, South America, the Middle East and Africa) - Forecast and Analysis 2022-2026” report has been added to Technavio offering. With ISO 9001:2015 certification, Technavio has proudly partnered with more than 100 Fortune 500 companies for over 16 years. The potential growth difference for the metaverse in fashion market between 2022 and 2026 is USD 6.61 billion. The growing number of fashion brands entering the metaverse platform is a key factor driving market growth. The possibility of transforming an online shopping experience is possible using metaverse platforms. Fashion brands, especially clothing brands, largely depend on attractive branding and branding for sales. Clothing brands use the metaverse platform to enhance their reputation. For example, in April 2022, Nike and RTFKT jointly launched a virtual shoe called the RTFKT x Nike Dunk Genesis CRYPTOKICKS collection. The metaverse in fashion market share growth by the computer segment will be significant during the forecast period. A high degree of personalized digital experience has resulted from the emergence of metaverses in fashion. Additionally, with the metaverse, many fashion brands are developing new digital merchandising strategies, such as allowing customers to create personalized products that they can style according to their preferences. Consequently, major e-commerce companies have been forced to compete and enhance the availability of their products for customers. Photo courtesy of Unsplash

PERFECT CORP. UNVEILS GENERATIVE AI TECHNOLOGY FOR HAIRSTYLING IN YOUCAM MAKEUP APP Perfect Corp. announced a breakthrough development for both consumers and the hairstyling industry with the launch of its new virtual try-on technology-powered by generative AI. The groundbreaking technology, now available in the YouCam Makeup app, is the most advanced and realistic VTO solution for hairstyling available on the market today. It is set to redefine the way consumers discover and experiment with hairstyles. With this breakthrough technology, Perfect Corp. utilizes advanced generative AI and stable diffusion models to produce a wide variety of hyper-realistic hairstyles, colors and textures, ensuring that users can explore a range of hairstyles to suit any occasion. As beauty enthusiasts increasingly seek out personalized recommendations, Perfect Corp. has been at the forefront of developing cutting-edge solutions. With this groundbreaking advancement, users can visualize how trending hairstyles and hair lengths will look on them in real-time, thanks to Perfect Corp.’s generative AI technology. Perfect Corp.’s newest hairstyle virtual try-on solution marks a significant leap forward in the development of solutions for the hairstyling industry, evolving from GAN (Generative Adversarial Network) technology to more sophisticated and precise generative AI models. By leveraging the newest breakthroughs in generative AI, rather than providing general hairstyle filters for consumers to try-on, the technology is able to generate new hairstyle filters personalized to each individual user.

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Photo courtesy of Perfect Corp.

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411 TECH

CROISSANT LAUNCHES GOOGLE CHROME EXTENSION Croissant, a fintech platform with a mission to empower intentional commerce, launched its Google Chrome extension today, allowing customers to see and lock in Guaranteed Buybacks™ for their applicable apparel and accessories purchases on most major brand and retailer sites, including Neiman Marcus, Reformation, Nike and Lululemon, with more to come. An industry first, Croissant’s offering allows customers to know the future resale value of items during the initial shopping journey. Croissant’s data shows that when customers consider purchases with Guaranteed Buybacks™ in mind, they are empowered to spend more on the higher quality items they actually want, rather than opting for lower quality or disposable goods. Behind the scenes, Croissant deploys its exclusive multiple listing technology to find new buyers for the resold items within the existing secondhand ecosystem - with no involvement required from customers. Since inception, Croissant has achieved an average resale price within three pennies of the associated Guaranteed Buybacks™ paid to the customer, further establishing the company as the authority on resale pricing.

Photo courtesy of Croissant on Business Wire

Croissant initially launched with a handful of online retailers in late July 2023, when it also announced $24 million in seed funding from a suite of top investors, including Portage, Third Prime, BoxGroup, 25madison, Twelve Below and KKR Co-founders George Roberts and Henry Kravis. The new Google Chrome extension allows a wider range of customers and retailers to immediately benefit from Croissant’s unique value proposition.

THE NEXT WAVE OF CREATOR MARKETING: NEW STUDY FROM LTK AND NORTHWESTERN UNIVERSITY RETAIL ANALYTICS COUNCIL LTK, the platform that powers Creator Commerce™, released findings from a brand survey in partnership with Northwestern University’s Retail Analytics Council, revealing the insights and biggest trends in creator marketing for 2024. As we enter the next wave of the estimated $21B creator marketing industry, brands and retailers are investing more than ever in creators because they are seeing the critical role they play in brand building across the entire marketing funnel, from awareness to consideration and conversion. The study revealed investment trends, business impact and strategies for creators from the top marketing decision makers at leading global brands. Creators have built significant consumer trust with their shopping communities as 73% of Gen Z, 68% of millennials and 57% of the general population look to creators to make purchase decisions. The majority of surveyed brands say consumers trust creators the most compared to social media ads and celebrities. Creators are driving meaningful business impact like never before, reaching $4B in annual retail sales among 30M monthly users on LTK alone, which is leading to creator budgets growing the quickest compared to other digital channels. Eighty percent of brands said they increased creator budgets in 2023, and 92% of brands stated influencer marketing will have higher budgets or an increased role in their marketing strategy in 2024. Thirty-six percent said they plan to spend at least half of their entire digital marketing budget on creators. When asked where their marketing dollars are shifting, creator marketing and connected TV shared the top position overall for investment growth, beating out channels like paid search and paid social.

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Photo courtesy of LTK on Business Wire

January 2024

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HOW TO CONTROL REPUTATION FEARS

by Donna Johnson-Klonsky, MBA

Have you ever been challenged in front of a group? I have. I was surprised and angry and had to suppress the urge to retaliate. Either that person had impeccable timing or intentionally meant to inflict doubt about my qualifications. On another occasion, I realized that I had repeatedly mispronounced several key attendees’ names during a presentation. I was mortified and still cringed whenever I watched the replay. Whether an incident was externally imposed or selfinflicted, we tend to worry about others’ views of us. It may make us feel vulnerable, exposed and even insecure. Can you think of something you did that had the potential of jeopardizing how others viewed you? This article is the second in the series covering the Fearsome Foursome, the four primary categories of fears: Relationships, Reputation, Responsibilities and Rewards. In the first article, I provided an overview of elements linking all four, highlighted relationship fears and shared tools. In this article, I dive into reputation anxieties and provide more techniques to neutralize their impact. Reputation Fears Why should we be concerned with reputation fear? It could stop us from being the kind of leader we desire or need to be. The possibility of losing value in the eyes of another is the cornerstone beneath this anxiety. Concerns over how others view our qualifications or accomplishments can foster feelings of rejection which undermine our confidence. Our insecurities may cause secret doubts to emerge. Am I supposed to be the leader, or am I an imposter? Will they discover that I am not good enough? What if I am wrong? At one time or another, many of us have had and still have those thoughts.

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Naturally, we cherish how others regard our professional contribution. Nevertheless, we must tread lightly if preserving our reputation becomes entangled with our need to be liked. One of my clients required her team to take on an excessive number of projects with unreasonable deadlines because of her desire to be liked by customers. She was unhappy, frustrated and angry with herself because of her inability to say no if she felt it would alter how customers viewed her. Some of us are not currently faced with reputation fears, but they are in our future. Suppose you decide or the situation dictates that you leave your company and find a new one. Maybe you are selected to head a new division or launch new products or services. You will find yourself swimming in unfamiliar territory that requires you to protect or upgrade your reputation. Yes, future opportunities necessitate us to step out of our comfort zone, take risks and embrace change. No risk comes with the sticker “success guaranteed.” And change demands that we incorporate new tools and ways of doing things. We all need to recognize and manage reputation fears. Take heart; there are strategies to lessen the impact of this concern. Fearsome Foursome Strategies: Part 2 Since the initial two strategies, brought out in the first article, are essential to prevailing over reputation fears, here is a brief recap. First, you need to identify the predominant anxiety. Second, you must acknowledge and accept how it influences your choices. Then, you are ready to move ahead. The third step involves looking inward. A selfdiscovery journey is necessary. This process will accomplish many things. It will reaffirm your strengths. To help in that endeavor, create, maintain and continually review a list of your achievements. I refer to the compilation as evidence that will fortify you for a time when an action you took negatively impacts your reputation.

During your exploration, reevaluate and update your self-worth beliefs. Some of us may, for different reasons, not value ourselves as highly as we should. Sometimes, I still hesitate to coach highly successful leaders even though testimonials confirm my ability. We each have our own Achilles’ heel. Kim, who had come up through the ranks, would feel like her throat was closing whenever others, who held similar positions and credentials were mentioned. She learned how to calm herself by mentally reviewing her evidence and working on elevating her qualifications. Unfortunately, there are times when some that we work with purposely try to highlight information that could adversely affect how others view us. We must continually explore and evolve our mindset and behaviors to neutralize this. This will help us approach situations with curiosity, openmindedness, and the ability to identify growth opportunities. In conclusion, reputation fears pertain to the possibility of losing value in the eyes of another. How we respond can determine if our growth and impact as leaders are adversely affected. We should proceed with even more caution if preserving our reputation becomes entangled with our need to be liked. Whether it presents itself in our lives now or later, we must recognize and manage reputation fears. Some strategies include embarking on a self-discovery journey and updating your selfworth beliefs. Upcoming articles in this series will highlight the other two major categories, Responsibilities and Rewards Fears, and will present more strategies and techniques.

Donna Johnson-Klonsky, MBA, PCC DJ Consulting Services, Inc. East Fishkill, New York 12533 djohnson@djcsfirm.com Tel: (845) 447-1037

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The information contained herein has been obtained from sources believed reliable. While we do not doubt its accuracy, we make no FM | 63 January 2024 guarantee, warranty or representation about it. The prospective tenant should carefully verify each item, and all other information herein.


COLUMNS

BEAUTY: THE POWER OF TECHNOLOGY

By Anne Marie Soto, Retail Marketing Society

to create interactive makeup tutorials that show customers how to apply their products and offer tips and tricks to achieve different looks.

It used to be that changing your makeup regimen meant sitting at a beauty counter for hours, applying and removing different combinations of foundation, eye shadow and lipstick until you found just the right one. No longer. A recent Retail Marketing Society webinar highlighted some of the changes that are taking place in the beauty industry. The guest speaker was Daniel Hodges, CEO, Consumers in Motion Group and Founder & CEO, Retail Store Tours. Technological Innovations Impacting the Beauty Industry RiboNucleic Acid, known as mRNA, is now a mainstream term for a technology that has exciting applications in the beauty industry. “The promise of mRNA technology,” Hodges explained, “is that it applies specifically; it sends the instructions to your skin in a simple way to de-wrinkle. With this mRNA technology, in the next five years you’ll start seeing probably less of a need for Botox and some of the hyaluronic acid treatments that are important to beauty.” One example Hodges cited is Exosome, a treatment that provides minimally invasive solutions for repairing and restoring the skin. Augmented reality is another compelling innovation. There are ways to map the face to illustrate the effects of a specific type of treatment, such as wrinkle removal. Some cosmetic brands are employing AR to create virtual try-ons, allowing consumers to explore how a product looks before making a purchase. Face tracking technology also makes it possible for the potential buyer to see how the product would look from various angles or under different lighting scenarios. Cosmetic brands are also using AR

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Hodges also brought up an interesting innovation in the fragrance industry. He reported that LVMH has technology in the sensing of the smell where one can program one’s home to experience different fragrances. “Let’s say you come home from work at six o’clock and you’re feeling a little bit like the South of France,” he said. “Well, basically there’s technology that can deliver the lavender fields in your house!” Technology is being used to improve the in-store customer journey. One of Hodges’ favorite examples is Sephora’s Skin IQ, which takes the weighted average of the customer’s forehead, cheek and neck, and uses this information to recommend foundations, lipsticks and more. Sephora also has special programs, including one for brides and one for executives with speaking engagements. “The only two places that beat this for experience are the Chanel store and the Beauty Haven on the second floor of the Nordstrom flagship,” said Hodges. “The latter is a complete experience with manicures, hair drying, massages, coloring, you name it.” The US and European Market vs. the Asian Market While the US and European markets are essentially the same, Hodges addressed the difference in the Asian market. “The Asian beauty culture is very pure,” he explained. “Anything that is understood as a chemical, that’s not natural or doesn’t have a heritage won’t be successful. And the packaging must be culturally appropriate.” Another important distinction is that while China is a country that’s grown greatly in the past generation, it doesn’t have the physical infrastructure or the experience of a culture of selling. As a result, an enormous volume of revenue in China is going to influencers. Demographic Factors “It’s game on,” declared Hodges. “There’s no difference between a 16-year-old beauty consumer

and a 60-year-old. They basically are very open to products, ideas and a tremendous amount of openness. There may be an economic difference, but it seems like everyone’s always up for a new soap, a new lotion. I’m sure that when mRNA becomes commercially available that technology that’s going to be a monster category, it probably will revolutionize the industry.” Men are also becoming significant consumers, particularly in the skincare arena. Hodges reported that at Chanel, men accounted for 26% of the volume. But they need assistance. They need to know that using makeup is not making them more feminine; that it’s practical. COVID and all the ensuing Zoom calls was a big eye-opener. “When you look at the Zoom call and go, wow, I’ve got all these wrinkles! I don’t want to look like this. Men are as vain as anyone else,” explained Hodges. “But unless they’re guided and sort of handheld, they won’t change. But in the environments where they are welcomed, where they’re nurtured and guided, they will become comfortable consumers. But there’s a barrier that still needs to be broken, but as far as I can tell Chanel has broken that barrier.” In Retail, Beauty Equals Success Hodges offered three reasons why beauty is such a successful retail category. First, it is a value that is held in high esteem throughout all cultures and throughout the world. There’s no price on beauty. People will pay whatever it takes to make them feel like they have the right treatment and the right regimen. The second reason is that it is relentlessly innovating, and it has huge margins. So obviously it can afford you to innovate. And finally, it’s the personal touch that really does it for beauty.

Anne Marie-Soto Retail Marketing Society Tel: (201) 692-8087 www.retailmarketingsociety.org retailmarketingsoci@retailmarketingsociety.org

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A NEW VIEW As we enter New York’s next chapter, our commitment to the City’s vitality, to our community, to our partners, to our tenants, and to our portfolio remains steadfast. We look forward to a bright and shared future.

Ownership/Management/Leasing • Tenant Representation Agency Representation • Co-GP and LP Real Estate Investments Scott Galin, Principal/CEO | 212.398.1888 | Handler-re.com

HANDRO PROPERTIES LLC

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FOUR WAYS TO COMBAT THE HEADWINDS IN PROCURING CYBER INSURANCE COVERAGE By Frank DeLucia, HUB International Northeast quire multiple security controls: 1. Multifactor authentication (MFA) for remote network access, email systems and privileged accounts.

The high frequency and severity of cyber claims have caused underwriting standards to tighten and prices to erupt. Stung by their own losses from increased crime, cyber insurance has begun to notice and availability of coverage has shrunk and premiums have spiked — insurers are limiting the amount of coverage available, while premiums have more than tripled in 2022. In addition, deductibles in certain risk classes will see negotiations over deductibles begin at $2 million. Insureds should also expect more underwriting scrutiny and zero tolerance for poor risks. Underwriters will decline or not renew policies for organizations that lack a certain baseline level of network security protection. Here are four ways to reduce cyber exposure and have a better risk story to tell insurers. For organizations to obtain coverage at a reasonable rate, they’ll need to show their security is top-notch. The following four steps have become essential for any organization — no matter its industry, success or even security track record — to be in the discussion for cyber coverage: Implement multiple security controls Before they’ll even give a quote, cyber insurers re-

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2. Remote desktop protocol (RDP) ports to be closed or placed behind a virtual private network protected by MFA. 3. Privileged account access limited to those who need access 4. One or more email filtration solutions such as a Sender Policy Framework (SPF), DomainKeys Identified Mail (DKIM), or Domain-based Message Authentication, Reporting & Conformance (DMARC)

ty threats and attacks. The plan tells who to call, what to do and when to do so in case of a security breach. Insurers once considered an IRP nice to have, but now it’s expected. Practice tabletop exercises and simulated breaches A cyber tabletop exercise is a simulated cybersecurity scenario exercise in which participants must respond to a hypothetical incident. Such exercises expose weak links in the incident response plan and in an organization’s communication framework. Once again, insurers are not only interested that insureds have a plan, but that they can show the plan will actually work.

5. Top antivirus protection 6. Endpoint detection and response (EDR) 7. At least one copy of backups stored offsite or in the cloud Emphasize employee training It is mandatory to train employees, vendors and other key constituents to recognize email phishing and spoofing scams. Cybercriminals are sophisticated in their approaches, so employees need to be just as savvy. This step requires a top-down, organization-wide culture of security.

Frank DeLucia serves as Senior Vice President of HUB International Northeast, a leading full-service global insurance brokerage. With over three decades of experience, DeLucia specializes in building insurance and risk management programs for the real estate and apparel industries and is a long-time active member of the Fashion Service Network (FSN).

Prepare an incident response plan Insurers want to see an organization’s incident response plan (IRP), a comprehensive plan for addressing network security and privacy liabili-

DeLucia can be reached by phone at 212-3382395 or at frank.delucia@hubinternational.com. For more information on HUB, please visit www. hubinternational.com.

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2024 IS THE YEAR FOR FUNCTION, FIT AND FASHION IN INTIMATE APPAREL By Dora Lau, president, Dora L. International

Advanced manufacturing techniques and materials science are forging new frontiers in intimate apparel, making lingerie not just a piece of clothing, but a sophisticated ensemble of smart textiles and design. We see this development of innovative materials and fabric applications in:

When we imagine the possibilities for 2024 in intimate apparel, it’s driven by a desire to live our lives with a greater focus on our well-being. In recent years, there’s been a holistic renaissance in how we approach wellness and beauty, deeply influencing not just our lifestyle choices but also extending to our wardrobes, especially the garments closest to our skin. Intimate apparel is being reevaluated through this lens, as women increasingly prioritize comfort and health alongside style. The intimate apparel of 2024 reflects this shift, understanding that the foundations of our outfits play a pivotal role in our overall well-being. Intimate Apparel and Wellness Share A Common Goal The mindset of what we wear as a part of our wellness is a shift that is reshaping the industry. Lingerie, once a symbol of beauty at the expense of comfort, is undergoing a transformation. Women are now championing lingerie that serves not just as a fashion statement but as an extension of their self-care regimen. The narrative is clear: intimate wear must be as comfortable as it is beautiful, aligning with the body’s natural form and movement. As a result, brands are innovating with designs and softer, more breathable materials, ensuring that what lies beneath is in harmony with the body’s need for comfort and the soul’s desire for beauty. Fabric Innovations and Technologies Are Solution-Based Technology plays a pivotal role in revolutionizing the lingerie industry, blending comfort, functionality and style into designs that sync seamlessly with a contemporary lifestyle.

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Collagen-Enhanced Fibers: These cutting-edge fibers are designed to do more than just provide comfort. They also care for the skin by infusing it with collagen, offering a soothing, protective effect beneath the surface. Hygiene-Forward Textiles: In the wake of heightened hygiene consciousness, textiles that resist bacteria and microbes have become a must-have in lingerie, offering wearers peace of mind alongside comfort.

The Future of Supportive Bras Embraces Innovation Technology also has resulted in alternatives to traditional underwires, offering women more choices for supportive bras that are comfortable. Compressed foam technology is at the forefront, adapting to individual body shapes to offer natural lift and support. Encased materials have also advanced, providing the necessary uplift while maintaining a plush feel against the skin. In addition, gel glue designs are changing the game by offering a gentle, wire-free lift, acting as a supportive sling that contours to the body. This new comfort era is setting a higher standard for what women expect from their lingerie: a fusion of ease, support and style that feels tailored to their form and lifestyle.

The Changing Shape of Shapewear Shapewear has always been a personal choice, and it’s clear that no one needs it to conform to any standard of beauty. However, many find that the right piece of shapewear can amplify confidence, particularly when dressing for special occasions. The contemporary shapewear market offers an array of options, and while having variety is beneficial, it can sometimes make the selection process overwhelming.

2024 is a Year Focused on Solution Based Intimate Apparel In 2024, the concept of lingerie is being redefined: it’s no longer just about the visual appeal, but about how it makes the wearer feel. Brands are innovating with materials, construction techniques and design to ensure that their products deliver on all fronts – offering support, ease of movement and breathability while still being fashionable. By embracing this philosophy, the industry is promoting a more inclusive definition of beauty, one that champions personal comfort and wellness as much as it does style. This important shift is empowering consumers to make choices that align with their values and lifestyle, leading to a more personalized and satisfying shopping experience. Ultimately, it results in intimate apparel that women want – pieces that offer comfort, function, fit and fashion.

The key lies in finding shapewear that doesn’t aim to reshape your body but rather to provide a seamless, smooth canvas that complements your inherent form. Whether it’s to achieve a polished look under a sleek dress or to simply feel more put-together, the modern evolution of shapewear is about celebrating the body as it is, providing a subtle, confidence-boosting layer.

Dora L. International, Los Angeles 441 S. Hewitt Street Los Angeles, CA 90013 Tel: (855) 882-8789 info@doralinc.com

Ventilated Fabric Technology: The integration of featherlight materials and stateof-the-art ventilation technologies in fabrics ensures that these garments are breathable, promoting air circulation and creating an exceptionally comfortable, second-skin fit.

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Expertise you can count on no matter what path your business takes

WELLS FARGO CAPITAL FINANCE FACTORING ASSET-BASED FINANCING ACCOUNTS RECEIVABLE MANAGEMENT ACQUISITION FINANCING INVENTORY FINANCING IMPORT AND EXPORT FINANCING LETTERS OF CREDIT

In an industry that endlessly strives for the next big thing, having the flexibility to adapt at a moment’s notice is key to success. With Wells Fargo, you get the strength and stability you need, along with the nimbleness you want. Our flexible financing may support your growth, and our proven track record in factoring and receivables management helps make sure you’re ready for whatever’s next. Tap into our knowledge, experience, and broad offering of products so that your business’ success never goes out of style. Learn more at wellsfargocapitalfinance.com/apparel. Peter Pugliese Senior Vice President, Regional Sales Manager 212-703-3551 peter.pugliese@wellsfargo.com

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COLUMNS

DEB’S DISH AND DEALS: A FEAST OF FLAGSHIPS By Debra Hazel, president and CEO, Debra Hazel Communications

Happy New Year! The last months of 2023 saw spectacular new flagships make their debut with the promise of more to come. All About Apparel and Accessories Valentino debuted its three-story flagship at 654 Madison Ave. (previously home to Calvin Klein), part of a global expansion after new shops in Florence, Italy, Paris and Shanghai opened earlier in 2023. Tod’s unveiled its renovated flagship at 650 Madison Ave. featuring its full line of menswear, women’s apparel, accessories and footwear. Food, Glorious Food Food Bazaar Supermarket (Bogopa Service Corp.) has signed for a 37,000-square-foot full-service grocery store located at 375 West 207th St. in the Sherman Creek neighborhood of Inwood in Northern Manhattan. Home Sweet Home Just in time for Thanksgiving, Crate & Barrel opened what it called “the brand’s first-ever immersive design store” featuring exclusive merchandise, an in-store Kids boutique and a virtual store at 881 Broadway (formerly ABC Carpet & Home) in the Flatiron District. The home goods giant had announced plans to relocate from 611 Broadway in Soho earlier this year. The 23,000-square-foot, two-level store was renovated by Crate & Barrel’s in-house architecture and design team with the goal of preserving much of the rich history of the circa 1868 building. Once home to the Arnold Constable Dry Goods Store, the building was known as New York’s Palace of Trade. Blinds to Go will make its Manhattan debut at 1011 Third Ave.

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Wining and Dining Beverage brand Monster Energy has opened Monster Energy Bodega at Madison Square Garden as part of its official partnership with the iconic venue. Located on the sixth-floor concourse of Madison Square Garden and open during all events at The Garden including sports, music and live entertainment, the Monster Energy Bodega will offer an array of Monster Energy products. Even better, proceeds from the store will provide financial assistance to local bodegas throughout the tri-state area that are still recovering from the COVID-19 pandemic. Empire State Realty Trust Inc. (ESRT) signed new leases with Wokuni, a Japanese izakaya and sushi restaurant, for 3,187 square feet at 1359 Broadway and fast-casual sushi restaurant Gouie Sushi for 1,367 square feet at the Empire State Building (ESB).

in Beverly Hills. Fitness brand John Reed opened its fourth U.S. location at 8612 Santa Monica Blvd. in West Hollywood, California. Online healthcare apparel retailer Figs Inc. is opened its first permanent physical retail space — its Community Hub — at the Century City Mall.

To Your Health Fitness brand TYR Sport joined the world of brickand-mortar retailers with the opening of its first store at Roosevelt Field in Garden City, New York. The 2,200-plus square foot retail space showcases a comprehensive range of TYR’s products. Visitors can explore the latest in performance footwear, fitness apparel and on-trend accessories. Within the Union County, New Jersey borough of Kenilworth, Planet Dance has signed at 600 Blvd. The family-owned dance studio, which was established in 2002, is taking 3,000 square feet.

Elsewhere in Florida, The Shoppes at Yellow Pine in Babcock Ranch, the first solar-powered town in the United States, are leasing up, signing Marshalls (22,470 square feet), Ace Hardware (15,000 square feet), Five Below (9,486 square feet), Oar & Iron (5,500 square feet), Tipsy Salonbar (3,000 square feet), Fountain Pools (2,600 square feet). Seymour Orthodontics (2,500 square feet), Yummy Thai & Chinese (1,900 square feet), Verizon (1,600 square feet), Papa Johns (1,500 square feet), Carvel (1,300 square feet) and Laser Lounge (1,300 square feet) to the property.

Around the U.S. Verlo Mattress, a provider of customizable, luxury mattresses at an affordable price, has signed three development plans totaling 24 new locations nationwide. The franchise has three new development deals that entail six locations coming to Denver, Colorado and Phoenix, Arizona, five locations in Dallas, Texas, three additional locations planned for Houston, Texas and lastly, two locations to be opened in Boise, Idaho, and Raleigh, North Carolina. It’s been busy in and around Los Angeles: The Italian womenswear brand opened its first U.S. shop on Brighton Way

Debra Hazel Debra Hazel Communications North Las Vegas, NV Tel: (201) 618-5247

Miami is active, too. Thermomix, the all-in-one, Wi-Fi-connected cooking appliance brand, opened its first-ever retail space in the United States: Thermomix Miami, at 3450 NW 83rd Ave. in Doral, Florida. This marks the brand’s first foray into onsite retail sales. Previously, its TM6 was only available online or from one of the direct seller’s official Thermomix Independent Consultants. Look for Gucci to open a men’s boutique at 4100 NE First Ave. in the Miami Design District, around the corner from its existing women’s store.

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NOW LEASING 155 West 23rd Street 450 Seventh Avenue 100-104 Fifth Avenue 27-35 West 24th Street 13-15 West 27th Street 45-47 West 27th Street 19 West 24th Street 119-125 West 24th Street 111 West 19th Street

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3 4 8 2 FALL FAVOURITES

JANUARY

PICKS By Serena Bhullar

January is the month of new beginnings, which means it’s time for the latest in fashion and beauty trends! Experiment with these new styles and colors for a fresh look that will turn heads all year long. Here are our top January picks to celebrate! 1. Toty Ilumina CC Cream SPF 50+ : Protection, coverage and healthy antioxidants will give your skin the perfect glow. What else could you need? $42 | www.toty.com 2. Poléne Numéro Neuf Mini : Say Happy New Year to your next day-to-night bag! The perfect balance between structure and fluidity, this is a must-have accessory. $420| www.eng.polene-paris.com 3. Warm & Wonderful Diana Sweater : Carry some of the holiday spirit into your new year with this beautiful red sweater. $248| www.rowingblazers.com 4. The Japanese Garden by Sophie Walker : Soothe your senses with an extensive deep dive into the history of Japanese Gardens, a story over eight centuries old. $79.95 | www.phaidon.com 5. Balmain Vetiver 1974 Hair Perfume : The final touch post your blowout, this blend will keep your hair fragrant all day long. $177 | www.balmainhair.com 6. Platinum Born Stargazer Ring : This is the perfect daily staple that embodies elegance and play. $1160 | www.platinumborn.com 7. Ganni Green Leather Chelsea Boots : Winter and chunky boots go hand-in-hand. These will keep you warm while fetching compliments. $495 | www.ssense.com 8. Emi Jay Sweetheart Clip in Dream Girl : This clip will not only make your hairstyles cuter but also hold them in for hours. $34 | www.emijay.com

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When the show’s over, the brands come home to THE NEW MART

Showroom 10eleven Showroom 704

For the ultimate buyer experience, spend the day among our permanent showrooms and shop the complete collections of more than 500 world-class fashion brands. • Parking adjacent to building • 24/7/365 on-site security • Open daily throughout the year • Generous buyer amenities

Scan to learn more about The New Mart’s fashion brands


EXCLUSIVE DETAILS FOR SHOWS IN: • Dallas • Denver • Las Vegas • Los Angeles • Nashville • Orlando • New York


TRADE SHOWS

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ANDMORE

TRADE SHOWS

HOSTS 10 APPAREL AND FORMAL MARKETS IN 2024 Photos courtesy of ANDMORE

ANDMORE has announced its 2024 schedule of 10 apparel and formal markets running at Americas Mart Atlanta and The Expo at World Market Center Las Vegas. Notably in the new year, Atlanta Apparel permanent showrooms and temporary exhibits will follow a new cadence, with all resources opening and closing on the same days. “ANDMORE’s 2024 apparel and formal calendar provides the best-possible schedule for buyers and exhibitors to come together and source for every season, both on the east and west coasts,” said Caron Stover, ANDMORE SVP, apparel. “As we close out another successful year of connecting buyers and sellers, we look forward to raising the bar to new heights in 2024.” New in 2024, all Atlanta Apparel markets will open and close on a Tuesday through Friday pattern. Both temporary exhibits and permanent showrooms will open at 9 a.m. and will close at 6 p.m. on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, and stagger closing hours on Friday with temporary exhibits at 3 p.m. and permanent showrooms at 6 p.m. Additionally, Las Vegas Apparel will debut its semi-annual co-location with Womenswear in Nevada (WWIN) in February, cultivating a distinctive location for buying in downtown Las Vegas. Beyond exhibits, ANDMORE apparel and formal markets feature hallmark hospitality and daily at-market amenities and educational trend programming. ANDMORE’s 2024 apparel market calendar is: Atlanta Apparel: Tuesday, February 6 - Friday, February 9, 2024 Las Vegas Apparel: Tuesday, February 13 - Thursday, February 15, 2024 Formal Markets Atlanta: Tuesday, April 9 - Thursday, April 11, 2024 Atlanta Apparel: Tuesday, April 9 - Friday, April 12, 2024 Atlanta Apparel: Tuesday, June 4 - Friday, June 7, 2024 Atlanta Apparel: Tuesday, July 30 - Friday, August 2, 2024 Formal Markets Atlanta: Monday, July 29 - Friday, August 2, 2024 Las Vegas Apparel: Sunday, August 18 – Wednesday, August 21, 2024 Formal Markets Las Vegas: Sunday, August 11 - Tuesday, August 13, 2024 Atlanta Apparel: Tuesday, October 15 – Friday, October 18, 2024 About ANDMORE: ANDMORE, formerly International Market Centers, is an Omnichannel Wholesale Marketmaker that fuels opportunities for wholesale buyers and sellers to connect, grow and prosper through physical markets, design centers and digital channels. The company owns and operates more than 20 million square feet of premium event and showroom space, hosting live events in Atlanta, High Point, N.C., Las Vegas and New York City. By pairing face-to-face events with always-on digital tools, ANDMORE provides truly omnichannel business platforms for its global wholesale customer base.

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TRADESHOWS TRADESHOWS

MANA FASHION SERVICES HOSTS MIAMI POP-UP Photos courtesy of Mana Fashion Services

The Mana Wynwood Convention Center opened its doors for the return of the Mana Fashion Pop-Up, a fashion spectacular headlined by a fashion show from FW23 Collection of Faith Connexion on the VIP Preview opening on Day 1. The event kicked off with a VIP Preview hosted by Aura Copeland and opening remarks by Miami’s Mayor Francis Suarez.

for its reincarnation. His updated logotypes as well as a brand new logo-form he created are omnipresent this season in a diversity of formats and volumes. They adorned a revisited 50s style women’s tweed suit, screened on the back of a hooded micro bomber and embellishing the leg of a pair of jeans that ran all the way down to the heels of the shoes.

The runway show was presented in a see-now-buy-now format where spectators were able to shop the collection, right away. The pop-up featured over 120 eco-conscious brands from Miami, Latin America and beyond, as well as a group of Ukrainian brands who presented their shoppable collections. The event welcomed hundreds from Miami’s local fashion community and prominent figures, including Moishe Mana, Isabela Grutman, Antonio Brown, Natalija Ugrina, Victoria Unikel, Elysze Held and many more. All who came out supported Mana Fashion Services. Over 500 style influencers in Miami also attended to support the unveiling of the latest edition of the Mana Fashion Pop-Up.

Throughout the weekend, guests enjoyed shopping from brands that offered a wide selection of unique items, including resort wear, jewelry, home decor, handbags, menswear, womenswear and much more. In addition to being able to shop unique pieces from independent designers, the pop-up featured a vintage car exhibit, sustainability workshops, a clothing swap activation and family-friendly activities.

For the FW23 collection, Faith Connexion went to its roots and reinterpreted its guiding principles in a never-ending cycle of renewal. The collection of several design artists unearthed the Maison’s original logotype: half Gothic, half bling, the embodiment of a “too much is never enough” attitude straight out of the 2000s, the era that gave birth to the brand. The artist, a long-time collaborator, was given carte blanche

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On Sunday, a panel discussion led by moderator, Charlotte Trattner, managing editor of “MIAMI” and “Ocean Drive,” covered the topic of The Rise and Impact of Sustainability and Ethical Brands. The panel included industry leaders like Maria Buccellati, Sarah Akiba, Camila Straschnoy and Amanda Nicol. The experts spoke about their roles in sustainable fashion and admirable movement towards supporting ethical brands. Sponsors included Valdo, La Fete and Deep Eddy Vodka.

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TRADESHOWS

TRADESHOWS

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Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market

Join us for the next global trade event showcasing the latest fashion-forward apparel and accessories.

JANUARY 16 - 19, 2024

Curating the best brands in the best place. dallasmarketcenter.com / @dallasmarket 80 | FM January 2024

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NEW YEAR NEW YOU

Photos courtesy of Amazon Books

Fashion and beauty go hand-in-hand, and what better way to glam up your style than to indulge in new skincare remedies during the new year? Stick to resolutions that are all about you, and delve into the world of new you in 2024!

The Make-Up Manual: Your Beauty Guide for Brows, Eyes, Skin, Lips and More by Lisa Potter-Dixon October 8, 2019 Starting with “Skin Secrets,” make-up artist Lisa Potter-Dixon teaches you everything you need to know about skincare and perfecting your base. In “Beautiful Brows,” Potter-Dixon explains how to enhance your brows, before styling a natural, full, ombre and feathered look. In “Go with the Glow,” she explains why we add color and takes a look at contouring, strobing, blushing and bronzing. In “The Eyes Have It,” things really get interesting, with looks for smoky, colorful, nude, smudged and glittery eyes. And in “Luscious Lips,” Potter-Dixon helps you understand the difference between types of lipsticks, pencils, glosses and all that’s in between before teaching you how to achieve the perfect lip, no matter what your style. Finally, Potter-Dixon offers up “Looks to Dazzle,” from extreme glitter to using sequins, feathers and transfers, as well as enhancing your look with accessories. Whether you’re looking for a fun and youthful, elegant and sophisticated or one-off look, Potter-Dixon will show you how to make the most of your facial features and complexion in this make-up manual.

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The Skincare Bible: Your No-Nonsense Guide to Great Skin by Anjali Mahto April 5, 2018 Dr Anjali Mahto is one of the U.K.’s leading consultant dermatologists. Equipped with years of expertise and the most up-todate evidence, she sets out to cut through the noise and distinguish the nuggets from the nonsense. Chia seeds won’t make your skin glow and lilac water is never going to reduce acne scarring. And, when it comes to the best products, high price doesn’t necessarily mean high quality. Tackling common complaints such as acne and dryness, rosacea and aging, The Skincare Bible is your definitive companion to your body’s biggest organ. Clear, concise and packed full of tips on the best products and routines, it will help you discover what works for you and find confidence in your own skin. This is your expert guide to great skin, pure and simple.

Be Your Own Makeup Artist: Unleash Your Inner Beauty by Natalie Setareh June 2, 2023 Unlock the beauty within you with “Be Your Own Makeup Artist,” the ultimate makeup book for beginners seeking to master the art of makeup application. This comprehensive and inclusive guide is thoughtfully designed to empower individuals of all ages, genders, skin types and skin tones to confidently navigate the beauty aisles and create a personalized, practical everyday makeup look that perfectly complements their unique style and preferences. “Be Your Own Makeup Artist” goes beyond just makeup application; it emphasizes the importance of skincare, setting the stage for a flawless canvas.

How To Treat Sensitive Skin Naturally: The 19 Best Skincare Recipes for Sensitive Skin (Natural Skin Care) by Kinnary Ashar December 26, 2022 Discover everything you need to know about sensitive skin! Inside this book you learn how to recognise the signs of sensitive skin, prevent the onset of sensitive skin and treat sensitive skin with a proven skin care routine. Create the recipes yourself so you know exactly what you’re putting on your skin and can save money at the same time! Discover how to make your own natural skincare blends, because it’s the best way to combat sensitive skin.

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450+ Exhibitors

7500+ Attendees

EVERYDAY SUNDAY

Miami Beach T. 305.596.7889 82 | FM January 2024

info@swimshow.com

2024 swimshow.com

#SeeYouAtSwimShow mannpublications.com


BE MORE ON TREND The Las Vegas destination for top young contemporary brands and unmatched hospitality returns in 2024 with more resources than ever before. Starting this February, buyers can source from even more top lines and categories with the co-location of Womenswear In Nevada (WWIN) alongside Las Vegas Apparel at The Expo at World Market Center. Plus, gift and lifestyle crossover brands will be on display in the permanent showrooms that make this market unique among Las Vegas Fashion Week offerings. Together, the collaboration will create a new and exciting destination, filled with resources and amenities for buyers to enjoy. Don’t miss it! February 13–15, 2024 August 18–21, 2024 @apparelmarkets | LasVegas-Apparel.com

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GIFT GUIDE

SAY HAPPY NEW YEAR WITH THE GIFT OF GOSHWARA’S

ARK COLLECTION Goshwara unveiled its latest masterpiece, the Ark Collection, just in time to continue holiday gift-giving into the new year. For the animal lover in your life, this extraordinary ensemble of fine jewels pays homage to the diverse wonders of the animal kingdom, capturing their essence in an array of vibrant sapphires, rubies, diamonds and tsavorites. Featuring a curated selection of meticulouslycrafted animal-inspired pin/pendant necklaces, each piece showcases Sweta Jain’s exceptional artistry. Sweta Jain, the visionary creator of Goshwara, draws upon her profound connection with gemstones to infuse every piece with unparalleled authenticity. Her journey into the heart of mining operations in Africa has deepened her appreciation for the raw beauty of gemstones and forged a powerful bond between her passion and the source of her craft. Encapsulating the essence of each wondrous creature, Ark reflects upon Jain’s love of animals. A vivid palette resonates with the spirit of the wild, while color, form and texture captivate the eye. The jewels honor the diverse creatures that roam the land, swim the seas and soar through the skies. “I wanted to focus on the beauty and diversity of animals, while raising awareness about animal welfare and promoting kindness towards them,” said Sweta Jain. The Ark Collection Cheetah Brooch/Pendant is a testament to the cheetah’s boundless speed and grace. With its sleek design and vibrant gemstones, this piece captures the essence of this magnificent feline. Embodying wisdom, strength and familial bonds, the elephant is a beacon of grace and resilience. The Ark Collection showcases a range of Elephant Brooch/Pendants, each meticulously crafted. These pieces serve as a tribute to the elephant’s deep sense of community and its gentle yet formidable nature. Man’s faithful companion, the dog is a symbol of loyalty, companionship and unconditional love. The collection features Dog Brooch/ Pendants as the perfect gift for dog-lovers. By wearing these pieces, one carries with them the traits of trustworthiness and devotion, a reminder to embrace the bonds that bring strength and comfort. The awe-inspiring sea creatures of Ark connect the wearer’s inner strength to the mysteries of the ocean. Representing longevity, protection and wisdom, the turtle is a revered symbol across cultures worldwide. Ark features exquisite Turtle Brooch/Pendants, each evoking its steadfast nature and ability to navigate through life’s currents with grace and purpose. As fellow creatures of the water, fish embody adaptability, transformation and freedom. The Fish Brooch/ Pendant is a stunning representation of these dynamic and vibrant creatures. Wearing it is an affirmation of one’s own adaptability, and the courage to embrace change. Inspirited by the majestic creatures of the air, the Ark collection also connects to the boundless skies. A symbol of transformation, adaptability and harmony, the dragonfly is a marvel of the natural world. Ark’s Dragonfly Brooch/Pendant is a stunning representation of this ethereal creature. Wearing it is an affirmation of one’s own capacity for growth, transformation and a harmonious existence. The collection’s Owl Brooch/Pendant embodies the owl’s keen insight and ability to see beyond the surface. Adorning it signifies a connection to one’s inner wisdom and a reminder of the power of perception. As the king of the skies, the eagle represents power, vision and resilience. The Eagle Brooch/Pendant is a testament to the eagle’s commanding presence. The Ark Collection allows you to say Happy New Year to your loved ones in a special way. Honoring the majesty of the animal kingdom through colorful jewels and symbols provides an exotic, unique gift.

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GIFT GUIDE Photos courtesy of Goshwara

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SOCIAL SOIREE

CAROLINE VAZZANA AND FASHION MANNUSCRIPT HIT CUCINA 8 ½ BY LAURIE MELCHIONNE Photos courtesy of Rob Rich

Fashion influencer, author and host of the five-star-rated Apple podcast, “Making It In Manhattan,” Caroline Vazzana met with the Fashion Mannuscript team at Cucina 8 ½. The glamorous event celebrated Vazzana as the cover star for the November/December issue, just in time for the holiday season. Notable attendees were Peter Thomas Roth, Kelly Brady of Brandsway Creative PR, David Lopes, Allen Hoffman and Gillian Hearst. A live saxophone player, herb d’oeuvres, gift bags and copies of Vazzana’s issue circulated the event while Vazzana and Mann Publications President and CEO Jeff Mann shared a few words thanking everyone for such a successful night.

David Lopes, Caroline Vazzana

Caroline Vazzana

Elizabeth Meigher, Peter Thomas Roth, Gillian Hearst, Krista Corl

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SOCIAL SOIREE

Errol Rappaport, Judy Gilbert,

Stephanie Oh, Caroline Vazzana, Aaron Royce

Sara Leeds, Surya Gard, Dani Walker, Jenna Cappavianca, Amore Philip

Madi McCreesh, Jeff Mann, Alex Baumbusch, Serena Bhullar

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CULTURE COUTURE

C a s it a Mari a’s “Fie s t a! ” G ala : Suppor ting Underprivileged Children

By Michèle Gerber Klein Photos courtesy of Patrick McMullan

Predictably glamorous, Casita Maria’s “Fiesta!” Gala is where Jacqueline Weld Drake gathers friends from all over the world to support a small organization that creates a nurturing, safe environment for children from New York’s poorest zip code. The gala can arguably be considered the best party in New York. This year’s honorees were Grammy-Winning Producer Nelson J. Albareda, former U.S. Ambassador to Morocco. David Fischer and Jennifer Fischer, as well as SOMOS Community Care Founder Dr. Ramon Tallaj. For a glimpse of the fun, please see below. Nand Khemka and Michele Gerber Klein

Alexandra Lind Rose, Gabriel Rivera-Barraza

Alica Lutz

Allison Rockefeller, Estrellita Brodsky

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Megan and Carlos Campos

Mary Snow, Jackie Weld Drake, Omar Hernandez

Angela Chen, Prince Dimitri of Yugoslavia

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STEP INTO SPRING Look ahead to bright days and sunny styles as you source Spring/Summer ’24 and more at Atlanta Apparel this October. See full collections for the next season as well as top brands for Resort, Accessories, and Shoes. Don’t miss the one market where you can find everything you need in one place, with affordable hotels and plenty of award-winning dining and entertainment options nearby, trend presentations to inspire you, and fun activations to make your trip memorable.

FUTURE MARKET DATES October 10–14, 2023 February 6–9, 2024 April 9–12, 2024 June 4–7, 2024 July 30–August 2, 2024 October 15–18, 2024

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Atlanta-Apparel.com January 2024 #atlapparel | @apparelmarkets

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FASHION HISTORY

Photo courtesy of Unsplash

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FASHION HISTORY BABY STEPS :

THE HISTORY OF THE BRIDAL SHOE BY LAURIE MELCHIONNE Fashion History is an all-new Fashion Mannuscript exclusive. In this section, we will take deep dives into the history of fashion, starting with the first installment of this series: the bridal shoe. History’s brides wore many forms throughout the years. Wedding costumes vary from the century, religion, culture and geographical location. This story will focus on the modern wedding, and how wearing white from head to toe has evolved in contemporary fashion alongside bridal footwear. Throughout the 20th century, the bridal shoe evolved in many ways. Each decade is marked by its own distinct style, and bridal categories were no different. The bridal shoe, in particular, reflected the trends of its decade. Early 20th Century (1900s-1920s) The Edwardian Era marked fashion in the first two decades of the 20th century. Shoes were crafted with delicate fabrics and handmade materials, which often featured silk, satin or lace detailing. Typically, the heels were short and slender with pointed toes. Interwar Period (1930s-1940s) The Great Depression and World War II made fashion evolve within narrow borders. Economic hardship and supply rationing made delicate, expensive materials like silk and lace hard to come by. As a result, bridal fashion was crafted with sturdier, cheaper materials. During this era, brides were mostly wed at City Hall in bridal skirt suits, which featured practical blazers paired with a skirt to get the job done efficiently. The shoes reflected this, too; often the typical black patent

leather of the era, brides wore efficient, low-heeled shoes that matched the masculine, professional color of their functional bridal suit. Post-War Period (1950s) In an era of prosperity and innovation, America in the 1950s was free to embrace elegance, femininity and flair rather than functionality. Shoes, like gowns and veils themselves, became more embellished. Kitten heels and typical 1950s peep-toe styles surged in popularity. Mid to Late 20th Century (1960s-1990s) From the 1960s onward, bridal shoes and weddings in general began to reflect the extravagant, bride-focused celebrations that we recognize today. Bridal shoes in the ‘60s mirrored typical fashion trends of the decade, with pop culture influencing the sleek, simple designs of lower heels. The bridal shoe of the ‘70s embodied the popularity of the platform shoe. Comfort was sacrificed as brides opted for higher heels. The ‘70s also saw the first time that a shoe color other than ivory or alabaster became acceptable. The bridal shoe of the ‘80s was marked by opulence, which comes as a surprise to no one. Bows, pearls, crystals and anything else you can imagine were incorporated into the shoes of an ‘80s bride. High heels and pointed toes were in vogue to emphasize the era’s notorious bold fashion statements. The ‘90s incorporated classic minimalism. Bridal shoes became simpler and understated, with a return of the lower heel and fewer embellishments. Sleek, classic heels that no longer acted as the center of attention came back in style. Late 20th Century to the 21st Century (2000s to Today) Like Y2K itself, bridal shoes became a mix of styles, from classic designs to more modern interpretations. The bridal shoe aligned with the aesthetic of the wedding itself, as well as the bride’s overall wedding aesthetic. From the veil to the shoes, bridal footwear was part of one, flowing presentation. From 2010 up until today, vintage-inspired designs have come to the forefront of the fashion industry as a whole. This blended into wedding styles as well. Lace, satin and classic silhouettes have made a comeback. Comfort has become more prioritized, particularly when the bride goes from the altar to the reception venue, and the outfit has to change for the party. Low-heeled shoes and even flats have become commonplace for the bride’s footwear. Society, economics and overarching fashion movements have influenced the bridal outfit, and her shoes have followed these trends, too. Opulence, functionality, minimalism and the embodiment of everything in between have played a role in the evolution of the bridal ensemble, and the bridal shoe has been no different.

Photo courtesy of Franco Sarto

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NEW YORK February 4-6

Register Here

LOS ANGELES

Join the

February 18-19

Register Here

community in 2024 92 | FM January 2024

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LAST LOOK

HOW TO OVERCOME NEW YEAR’S SHOPPING RESOLUTIONS SETBACKS By Laurie Melchionne At Scheer Medical Wellness, patient health and satisfaction take center stage, underpinned by an unwavering commitment to consistently exceeding expectations throughout the healthcare journey. Patients can rely on Scheer Medical Wellness to be a steadfast partner in the pursuit of optimal health. Dr. Alexander Scheer has provided scientific insight on how to maintain a healthy, balanced approach to New Year’s resolutions in the post-holiday season shopping period.

Dr Scheer Photo courtesy of Scheer Medical Wellness

The struggle to stick to New Year’s resolutions often has underlying medical and psychological factors. One key aspect is the way our brain is wired in terms of habit formation and reward systems. Neurologically, habits form through repeated actions that create neural pathways in the brain. These pathways become the brain’s default for certain activities, making it challenging to break old habits and form new ones. This is particularly relevant for New Year’s resolutions that require a change in established routines, such as exercising more, eating healthier or quitting smoking. Additionally, dopamine, a neurotransmitter associated with the brain’s reward system, plays a crucial role. New Year’s resolutions often involve long-term goals that don’t provide immediate rewards. This can be at odds with how dopamine reinforces behaviors that offer instant gratification, making it harder to stay committed to resolutions that have delayed rewards. What mental health advice can you share to help people keep their resolutions? To maintain mental health while keeping New Year’s resolutions, it is crucial to approach them with a mindset that prioritizes well-being and self-compassion. One fundamental piece of advice that I tell all my patients is to set realistic and achievable goals. Often, people set ambitious resolutions that are not aligned with their current lifestyle or capabilities, leading to feelings of failure and disappointment when they cannot meet these high standards. Instead, it’s more beneficial to set smaller, attainable goals that can be built upon over time. For instance, instead of aiming to run

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LAST LOOK a marathon by March, start with a resolution to run a certain distance each week and gradually increase it. This approach not only makes the goal more achievable but also provides a sense of accomplishment along the way, boosting motivation and self-esteem. Additionally, breaking down larger goals into smaller, actionable steps creates a clear roadmap for success and helps in tracking progress, which is essential for maintaining motivation and focus. When can New Year’s shopping resolutions become unhealthy? New Year’s shopping resolutions can become unhealthy when they start to negatively impact an individual’s emotional, financial or social well-being. This typically happens when the act of shopping shifts from a controlled, conscious decision to an impulsive or compulsive behavior. For instance, if someone resolves to follow the latest fashion trends, they might find themselves frequently overspending, leading to financial strain or debt. This kind of resolution can also foster a continuous sense of dissatisfaction, as the individual is always chasing the next trend without truly appreciating or utilizing what they already have. Moreover, when shopping resolutions are linked to an individual’s self-worth, where they equate their value or success with their ability to acquire certain items, it can lead to a problematic relationship with shopping.

How can one’s relationship with shopping and retail in general become unhealthy? One’s relationship with shopping and retail can become unhealthy when it shifts from being a functional activity to a compulsive behavior used to fulfill emotional needs or validate self-worth. This often manifests as shopping addiction, where the act of purchasing becomes a primary source of gratification or a coping mechanism for stress, anxiety or low self-esteem. The danger lies in the transient nature of the satisfaction gained from shopping, leading to a repetitive cycle where constant purchasing is needed to sustain happiness or escape negative feelings. Beyond financial implications, an unhealthy relationship with shopping often affects personal and professional lives.

Do over-expectations for New Year’s resolutions play a role in unhealthy shopping habits? Over-expectations for New Year’s resolutions can exacerbate an unhealthy relationship with shopping and retail. For example, resolutions centered on acquiring the latest fashion trends, gadgets, or lifestyle products can set unrealistic standards and perpetuate a cycle of continuous consumption. Such resolutions can reinforce the belief that selfworth and success are measured by material possessions, leading to excessive shopping to fulfill these misplaced expectations. The initial motivation for a resolution may be positive, such as wanting to improve one’s style or living environment, but when it spirals into an obsession or a tool for self-validation, it becomes problematic.

The unhealthy aspect of such resolutions is further compounded when they start affecting personal relationships and daily functioning. If someone is consistently preoccupied with shopping, planning their next purchase, or spending significant time and resources on shopping-related activities, it can lead to neglect of important aspects of life such as family, work or health. Additionally, if there’s a tendency to hide purchases, lie about spending or experience guilt and remorse after shopping, these are clear indicators that the shopping resolution has veered into unhealthy territory. In such cases, the resolution becomes a source of stress and anxiety.

The Scheer Medical Wellness Lobby Photo courtesy of Scheer Medical Wellness

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Ever wonder where the people with all the answers get all the answers?

Ask MARCUM MARCUM’S NATIONAL CONSUMER PRODUCTS GROUP LEADERS: MICHAEL SACCO, CPA Partner & National Consumer and Industrial Products Leader michael.sacco@marcumllp.com RONALD FRIEDMAN, CPA Partner & California Consumer and Industrial Products Leader ron.friedman@marcumllp.com

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