MANIAC APRIL l MAY 2011
TOXIC MAKEUP GOOD LOOKS VS GOOD HEALTH. WHAT WE’RE REALLY PUTTING ON OUR FACE.
EURO BEAUTY SPOTS:
PITTSBURGH’S OLD WORLD INSPIRED SPAS
KAT DELUNA
BEHIND THE SCENES OF FASHION WEEK PHOTOS & MORE! KRISTINA
CHANEL JET-SET:
Austrian Spas REBECCA TAYLOR
OH LAND’S
NANNA ØLAND Fabricius
$2.95
The FAR & AWAY Issue
MANIAC
Andrew, Rebecca & April
MANIAC
MANIAC LETTERS TO THE EDITOR
APRIL / MAY 2011 CONTRIBUTORS
Publisher/Editor in Chief April Hubal
MANIAC
FEBRUARY l MARCH 2011
Editor Sarah Lolley
ISSUE
REBECCA MINKOFF UPCYCLING?
PAGEBOY BOUTIQUE EXPLAINS REDOING LOCAL VINTAGE
Director of Advertising Rebecca Tudi
BRANDI ENGEL PITTSBURGH’S SWEETHEART
JET-SET: HAWAII
Writers Amesh A. Adalja MD Jared Bundy Adam Castleforte Bridgette Cunningham Chelsea Danley Dominic Janidas Sarah Lolley Jennifer K. McGlincy Susie Meister Jammie Mountz Katherine Reel Becca Tudi Interns Zara Husaini Kelly Mccord Colleen McGuckin Jammie Mountz Sarah Nauer Su Min Park Abby Speng
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love THE
Art Director/Designer Andrew Tutko
Photography Chris Artz Tamara Bachelder Robert Hester Cameron Krone Casey Monteverde Lindsay Mullen Bill Schmitt Adam Warner Kathy Wolfe
Dear MANIAC,
DATE NIGHT: THE ULTIMATE GUIDE
KATIE GALLAGHER
ROMANTIC GETAWAYS
219 Fort Pitt Blvd. | Pittsburgh, PA 15222 maniaceditor@maniacmagazine.com | maniacexchange.com 412.325.0052 l advertising inquries 412.325.0052
ON THE COVER
Kirk Black Pittsburgh
WHERE TO TAKE YOUR SPECIAL SOMEONE ON THAT LONG WEEKEND
MARK PELLEGRINO $2.95
TO THE STEEL CITY’S MOST ROMANTIC RESTAURANTS
MANIAC MAGAZINE
I was excited to see Brandi Engel; with all of the covers you have done recently with all of the celebrities. It’s great to see Brandi next to AnnaLynne McCord. Thanks for giving a local girl a shot. One of the things i love about your magazine is you never lose the flavor of Pittsburgh. You have amazing celebrities and models and never forget the local talent.
Send party ideas, compliments, criticisms, and witticisms to: MANIAC Magazine 219 Fort Pitt Blvd. Pittsburgh, PA 15222 maniaceditor@maniacmagazine.com
To the Editor, I was so excited when i saw Brandi on the cover of MANIAC. I went to high school with Brandi! i’m happy she is doing well and now a signature of Pittsburgh! Great job MANIAC for putting someone on the cover that truly represents Pittsburgh and the beauty of living here. Manid M. Pittsburgh
MANIAC! Maniacs you should do more day trip ideas! i really like that idea of going to places that you could do for fun just for the day. We have such great places that you can drive to. Can’t wait to try Bedford Springs and the Greenbrier resort. Your Maniac Travler
Nanna Øland Fabricius of Oh Land shot by Cameron Krone, assisted by Chris Artz.
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MANIAC
MANIAC APRIL l MAY 2011
CONTENTS
TAKING A BIGGER BITE OUTTA LIFE
dear
MANIAC adventurers, 10/ UNDERCOVER
Danish musician Oh Land graces our cover with her natural beauty an out-of-this-world tunes
PAGE 68
18/ FEATURE
Dancing and dining at Savoy, a new destination in the Strip District
20/ FEATURE
Jim Bean and restaurant Braddocks team to host Whiskey Wednesdays
26/ ART
Icelandic artist Ragnar Kjartansson brings his video instllations to the Carnegie Museum of Art
28/ HEALTH
A recent look at the warning of formaldehyde in hair products
30/ PROFILE
Kristina Chanel, a stylist to royalty, gets a start in New York
32/ FASHION PAGE 64
Goldfinger, looks of shiny brilliance
42/ MUSIC
Kat Deluna, Latin goddess of music
45/ JET-SET
In the land of Austrian Spas, a storied adventure
49/ STYLE
Zafira Dance Company’s Olivia Kissel brings the world into her dance
54/ FASHION
New York Fashion Week - Adventures and trends from fashion’s biggest event
PAGE 10
60/ PROFILE
Rebecca Taylor, one of the world’s most famous Kiwi designers
62/ HUSBAND UPGRADE
Susie Meister shares how traveling changed her
64/ ART
The artistic fashion of Roberto Capucci, on view in Philadelphia
67/ HEALTH
Local store and cosmetic line take out the chemicals in make-up
68/ MANIAC SHOPS Neutral tones for spring adorn our Earth Angel
70/ GUIDE
Guide to European infused day spas and beauty treatments
72/ PROFILE
For the Far and Away Issue, MANIAC shares some of the imported talent that has enriched our city and the world. The concept began as a way to highlight people who have brought their unique cultural background to this city and country. There are so many great minds and imaginations that have given fashion, music, and art its endless possibilities these are only the ones we could afford to fit in the magazine. The cover girl Oh Land recently caught our eyes; however, it was after her amazing debut at SXSW in Austin that convinced us she was the perfect choice. As it turned out photographer Laura Petrilla was also in Austin attending the shows and was able to shoot photos of Nanna fresh from one of her performances. We hope that she will come to Pittsburgh this year so we can all experience her fantastical music performance. Go to www. maniacexchange.com and www.misslphotography.com to see Laura’s photos and video clip. We first discovered Kat Deluna at the Empire Hotel during New York Fashion Week this past February. She was gracious enough to give us a video of her amazing voice and even serenated me for my birthday. Go to our website to see clips of Kat. We found so many inspirations and adventures while at Fashion Week. Covering the shows is always like stepping into the vision of the designer for those few minutes. Supporting artists on the verge of their careers is part of the MANIAC priority and we continue that theme with Kristina Chanel. She has styled royalty but is most known for mixing up edgier looks with a classic appeal. Performance art installations like from Ragnar Kjartansson have become an important part of the art world’s discussions. Ragnar is a lighthearted artist who has represented his Iceland country in the Venice Biennale. He spent about a month in Pittsburgh installing his video installations that are actually inspired by many American ideals. The timeless beauty of Italian Roberto Capucci’s artistic fashion is an important exhibit in Philadelphia because it answers the debate over whether fashion is art. Our feature subject, Rebecca Taylor is definitely in that category with her pretty frocks that are easy to fall in love with. Our guide looked at a few salons that bring European knowledge to their services. We also look at Zumba the Brazilian fitness craze. We stay current and also look at some new discoveries and warning in make-up and hair products. This issue highlights the imaginations and talents that have washed up on our shores. It is an amazing adventure just to read.
“ A passport, as I’m sure you know, is a document that one shows to government officials whenever one reaches a border between countries, so the officials can learn who you are, where you were born, and how you look when photographed unflatteringly.” ~Lemony Snicket
The steampunk furniture of No Good Riding Hood
73/ FITNESS
Brazilian influences behind the Zumba craze
Sincerely,
Sarah Lolley Sarah Lolley l Editor Follow me on www.accidentalmama.com
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maniac undercover: Nanna Øland fabricius
THE WORLD OF WHIMSY AND SONG:
OH LAND With wind-blown locks of blond hair, captivating eyes, a ballerina’s body, and a head full of fairy tales,
Nanna Øland Fabricius seduces listeners into her musical
world of dreamy lyrics over cosmic melodies. She could easily be a muse the gods are missing from the heavens with her lithe dancing, starry tunic, and honeycombed voice. She is a siren from the distant land of Denmark. 10
BY s arah l ol l e y P HOTOGRA P HY BY c ame ro n kro n e A S S IS TED BY c hri s artz
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maniac undercover: Nanna Øland fabricius The place of whimsy Nanna creates with her music is called Oh Land, a hybrid of her middle name Øland. This playful terrain she has composes is filled with balloons and starry skies; its secrets are fast becoming discovered as her music is becoming infectious with early praise coming from the New York Times and Billboard. This past March, she exploded across the musical stratosphere at the South by Southwest festival in Austin, Texas with 10 unforgettable concerts appearances that made her the hardest working artist there. However, she never flinched at the exhaustive schedule. Her mantra is to live in the moment and the best moment is now. With her self-titled album from Epic Records having been released the same week of SXSW she has had a lot of attention thrust upon her in the last few weeks. The album’s first single “White Nights” is at the same time a technological symphony of beats and rhythm and a sing-song rock lullaby. Referring to the noise and pulse of the city she sings, “There’s a restlessness in me/Keeps me up ’till the dawn/ There is no silence/I will keep following the sirens,” referring to the mythological seducers that call to lonely sailors. The result is a futuristic melody that could also be a classical piece as well. Subsequently, many musicians that have experienced the same sudden celebrity might not have managed the spotlight as well as Nanna. On the contrary, her outlook remains curious and inviting to the experience of rising stardom. Never pretentious, her personality is graceful and groovy; her appearance is free and flowing. Her hair hangs freely past her shoulders and her favorite stage outfits are ponchos or butterfly winged sleeves that she uses to accentuate her music as she dances, almost like a child twirling in the sunlight. While driving from Texas to Los Angeles, she spoke to me about how her star landed in the place where dreams come true. To her America is enormous and never-ending. It would take only a few hours to drive across her country, in the same amount of time she doesn’t even leave Texas. “It’s so big and so different from where I come from,” she says gazing out the window. “America truly feels like you can do anything here. This is the place dreams come true.” Her stunning features and natural talent has made her easy to fall in love with. It is evident that she is on the verge of something huge and prolific. “I just want it!” she says of her back-toback onstage performances. “I am just going where the music takes me; I am living in it.” As we speak she is on the way to LA to make her appearances on a Jimmy Kimmel and then David Letterman.
However, her story begins far, far away in Scandinavia where she grew up with a mother who was an opera singer and a father who was a church organist. Therefore, it was typical for her to be around men that wore make-up and women dressed in creative costumes. She did not have an abundance of toys and distractions on television; rather she was compelled to create her own stories and props. For her classical training began early. At age 9 she began training at the Royal Danish Ballet. By age 16 she had moved to Stockholm to attend the Royal Swedish Ballet. “I always live in my head, I have always been a dreamer,” she admits. Her favorite characters were a rooster and a stork-like character that would gallivant on adventures in a city she would map out and even create their own language. These were typical make-believe games she would play while attending ballet school, however, it would nurture her multisensory talents. “That focus as a child I bring to what I am doing today.” Sadly, by the time she was 18 her dancing
encouraged her to move more permanently to Brooklyn so she could produce her second album with Dan Carey (Hot Chip, The Kills, Franz Ferdinand) and Dave McCracken (Depeche Mode, Beyoncé, AFI). Epic Records was giving her the chance to reach even further into the sky with her vision and bring her electronic symphony of beats and sound effects to a bigger audience. “I was living in Copenhagen but it was so far away. I had to come back here and face it,” she says of her decision to come back. “I always had dream of coming to U.S.” The label asked her to make a list of people she wanted to work with on her album. “I was like a kid in a candy store. The first people I met were Dan Carey and Dave McCracken, they are my idols,” she says. “They push me in a loving way. They were a wall to push against and also to lean on. They quickly understood my world. When we create music, we lock all the doors and go crazy with instruments and boil it down until it’s simple.” This process has given Oh Land its multilayered, zigzagging melody. On stage she uses an electronic percussion instrument called an omnichord, and drum pads that look like they came from another world as well. She has two band mates that perform with her tinkering with electronic gizmos, keyboards, or a drum set. She sets the stage with balloons which she projects images onto like wolves and moons. “I wanted to project onto the balloons because visuals are really important to me. I didn’t want it to be detached like on a screen.” For her “Wolf and I” track she took the inspiration from the first albums she collected when she was 10-years-old, which were Native American hymns and songs. As she would listen to them she would close her eyes and imagine mountains; a drastic comparison to the flat landscape of Denmark. “Something made me dream of mountains,” she says of her vision. “I was standing on a mountain singing.” One of the stories past on through these songs was of a wolf in love with the moon who couldn’t be together because the sun was jealous. Her fearlessness and youthful creativity is refreshing and follows suit with her predecessors like Swedish musician Lykke Li and French sister duo CocoRosie. The breed of music evokes mischief and often incorporates sounds that might have been a forgotten vintage to. She has taken these theatrical influences that began with her love of Russian composers and the contemporary musical drama of Icelandic singer Bjork and has arrived at her own sound. Bizarre and fantastical art has developed organically through many Scandinavian artists
“It’s so big and so different from where I come from,” she says gazing out the window. “America truly feels like you can do anything here. This is the place dreams come true.” Her stunning features and natural talent has made her easy to fall in love with. It is evident that she is on the verge of something huge and prolific.
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career was already over after fracturing her spine. So painful was her injury that she had to undergo physical therapy to regain the ability to walk. Although she succumbed to her limitations she soon discovered that a new art form was beckoning her while she lay in bed listening to music. “I had to give up a dream that I had for so long. I couldn’t dance my way out.” she says of this transition period. What she discovered was that it was always the music that inspired her to dance and the music hadn’t left her. Instead of letting her injury break her spirit she began to choreograph the music into a luscious terrain of beats and lilting lyrics. “You can let it break you or find another way to dance. Music was the most natural way to say the things I wanted to say.” In 2008, she released her first album Fauna under the influences of Scandinavian producer Kasper Bjorke. The result was lullaby soundscapes that were playful and surreal. But her dreams were bigger than her beginnings so she came to America to seek her fate. Without the help of a publicist or manager, Nanna took her music to SXSW in 2009. She immediately caught the eyes of Sony reps that
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maniac undercover: Nannacategory Øland fabricius header like Nanna. She explains that in her area of the world there are many theatrical enterprises big and small. “Definitely, we are a country of story-telling,” she says noting that some of the world’s most famous fairy tales are from Danish author Hans Christen Anderson. In music, many artists follow the same whimsical path. “We don’t have big commercial success in music so we do what we want to do,” she says with a laugh. The choice to write her albums in English was another part of her adventure. Languages intrigue her and she admits often affects the emotion or story being told. “It’s fun to find new meaning in words. If I wrote in Danish the meaning would be different.” Little nuances excite her about traveling through our big country. Meeting local residents is way more exciting to her than tourist attractions. Trying our food is sometimes exciting and other times not so fulfilling. While she admits to loving In-N-Out Burgers on the West Coast, the vast majority of road side eateries make it hard to eat healthy. “It’s a challenge touring in the U.S. It’s hard to eat healthy. I end up eating a lot of crap.” However, she did enjoy crab legs when she was in Dallas. Costumes were a big part of growing up in the theatre for Nanna and her sister, who later became a fashion designer. Their mom would bring back magazines from England and they would try to recreate their favorite looks. Now her tastes are still whimsical. “I love single pieces more than collections. If I had to name a designer it would be Missoni, for their colorful designs and Miu Miu, for all their fantastic creations.” Nanna’s career was born from her captivating creative upbringing and nurtured through her own inner ambitions. The result is almost spiritual with its uplifting harmonies yet allegorical stories. She has made it very easy to love her and her music. For right now her future plans are to keep living in the moment and riding the comets of stardom that are starting to burst in her skies. You can almost imagine her waving as she whizzes by your watchful planet. For more tour dates and information check out www.ohlandmusic.com.
“I love single pieces more than collections. If I had to name a designer it would be Missoni, for their colorful designs and Miu Miu, for all their fantastic creations.”
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maniac undercover: Nanna Ă˜land fabricius
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FEATURE
DANCING & DINING AT SAVOY
A DEBONAIR NEW LOUNGE IN THE STRIP BY j ared bundy RENDERINGS BY a d a m w a r n e r, a u r a s t u d io 18
Savoy Restaurant is set to declare itself the pinnacle of fine dining in Pittsburgh when they open in the Strip District this April. Combining the hottest big city styles with celebrity star power and an up-tempo feel, Savoy wants their patrons living the good life.
The restaurant opens with a great mix of ownership that knows upscale dining and also uniquely tied to Pittsburgh. Owner Chuck Sanders is a part owner of The Darby in NYC (which shares owners with 1 Oak and Butter) and also helps operate similar restaurants in Miami and Arizona. John Bettis is originally from Pittsburgh and the Executive Manager of Savoy. He helped pick their prime spot on Penn Avenue and credits his brother, Steelers Running Back Jerome, with much of the initial preparations. Sanders noted, “Jerome was one of the first people to take charge. He says where everything is going to go, so I got to give him at least an assist”. Sanders is capitalizing on the Strip District’s renaissance as a high class dining destination. “Pittsburgh is made up of a lot of small communities, but everyone knows the Strip.” John Bettis also thinks that the Strip is everyone’s neighborhood, which is very fitting considering the origins of the name Savoy. The restaurant is named after the Savoy Ballroom in Harlem, a place for music and dancing open to all races. They competed with the rival Cotton Club, a whites-only nightclub that produced racial divide in the music scene. In the end, the Cotton Club went out of business in 1940 while Savoy stayed open and remained successful for another 20 years. Savoy Restaurant in Pittsburgh, like its namesake, wants to be known as a place where everyone is welcome. Unlike the club atmosphere of the Harlem nightclub, Savoy Restaurant is all about the dining experience. Their cutting edge design and wide range of influences make it the most modern in Pittsburgh. The first level features the main dining room, themed after Miami’s South Beach scene, with orange tones giving the room a soft feel. On the second level, the Vegas-styled lounge glistens with chrome and light blue tones, showcasing the only all-glass bar in the city. This opens up to a beautiful outdoor deck made of blue marble with awnings to give you a true Miami feel when the weather is cooperating. A private dining room in the basement, dubbed the Honors Room, is the height of luxury. Plush decor, oversized chairs, and personal iPads make this the perfect place for your special night. “No expense was spared to compare to the top of U.S. restaurants,” said Sanders. “And Pittsburgh deserves that.” Despite all the high end accommodations, Savoy is a ‘green’ restaurant and is focused on giving back to the community. Sanders and Bettis buy local, recycled materials, and want to support the eco-friendly trend in the Pittsburgh region. Besides a hip destination, Savoy’s cuisine is a real highlight. As the personal chef for Jerome Bettis and Alan Faneca, Executive Chef Kevin Watson has worked for some men with big appetites. He has even catered for
former President George W. Bush. His diverse menu of steaks, seafood, veggies and satay is focused on creating a high-quality meal. Savoy Restaurant and Watson even received an award for best appetizer before they even opened their doors! Savoy Restaurant will also be bringing a new concept to Pittsburgh – live music at all times. From old school and jazz to modern hits, local DJs will be spinning every day. Guest DJs are also scheduled to make appearances including big names like Biz Markie and Jermaine Dupri. Speaking of celebrities, how can we not mention the all-star lineup scheduled to appear at Savoy. Models Jessica White and Tyson Beckford will join Grammy award-winner Robin Thicke during the grand opening. Also on the VIP list are Jerry Ferrara (Turtle from Entourage), heartthrob Joe Manganiello (True Blood), Boris Kodjoe (The Gospel), and many more. Add an exciting and exclusive selection of fine wines and specialty drinks, and any visit will see you treated as royalty. After all, the dining experience at Savoy is all about being pampered. “Savoy is for beautiful, classy women who work hard and want to live in the lap of luxury,” said Bettis. Whether coming in with friends or a date, Savoy promises to be the ultimate night out. The sexiest celebs, live music, premiere dining and modern design are all coming to The Strip, but are you? With a venue this hot, you are going to need a reservation. Save a seat online at savoypgh. com. Look for more information on upcoming events and celebrity appearances on their Facebook page www.facebook.com/SAVOYpgh. Savoy Restaurant is all about bringing people together, so why not be pampered with luxury while you wine and dine? 19
Pittsburgh could have been the whiskey capitol of the US if it hadn’t been for Kentucky and their lure of free land and no taxation. Fear not whiskey enthusiasts Braddocks, which is located in the lobby of the Renaissance Hotel, is bringing it back with a whiskey revolution each Wednesday. The name Braddocks comes from the Whiskey Rebellion of 1791 during the government-imposed whiskey tax. Five thousand farmers and rebel militiamen joined forces on August 1, 1794 on Braddock’s Hill for a massive protest. The corn that was grown in the surrounding farms was used to make the first regal cocktails like the Sazerac. You might infer that Pittsburgh gave birth to the way bourbon developed. Thanks to Restaurant Manager Eric Brown the love of whiskey is coming home to Pittsburgh. He says that the restaurant began teaming with Jim Beam because they had more of their products than any other bourbon. “I am a big fan of Jim Beam personally, and they have a great product line.” The artistry of pairing the food with the cocktails comes from Bartender Kevin White who works with Chef Brian Volmrich with his Pittsburgh inspired dishes. This collaboration of spirits and vittles isn’t your everyday splash of bourbon in the mix, the duo work extensively to capture the right texture and combo using fresh ingredients that are fresh from the farm. On a recent promotional trip to Pittsburgh Fred Noe, Jim Beam’s Master Distiller and Great-Grandson, took time to emphasize that using fresh ingredients is changing how cocktails are made, especially classic bourbon drinks like the Manhattan and the Old Fashion. This ‘farm-to-cocktail’ ideal goes along with Whiskey Wednesday’s evolving menu that is determined by what is fresh that week. “Fresh ingredients are making it special again. People want to drink better and less,” says Noe about whiskey’s recent popularity surge. “Bourbon brings a lot more to cocktails. The charred barrels bring sweetness to the drink.” At Braddocks they utilize the subtleties that are found in the small batch bourbon brands like Basil Hayden, Booker’s, and Knob Creek. “My dad wanted people to experience bourbon the way it was 100 years ago,” says Noe whose image appears on many of the bottles. For Chef Brian the nuances of a dish depend on when the bourbon is introduced to the cooking process. “I finish with bourbon most of the time,” he says. “For a mellow affect I burn it. If you want it to hit you in the back, then I don’t burn it.” On the specialty menu restaurant patrons will find small plates for tasting and sharing with familiar titles and ingredients. For instance, the Petite Filet is offered in 2 ounce portions cooked Pittsburgh Rare, blackened on the outside and pink on inside. Local inspirations also include 20
Braddocks & Jim Beam SERVING SAVORY HERITAGE
Chipped Ham from apple wood smoked ham from Western Pennsylvania. Of course, you will find creative pierogies with house-made dough and Kielbasa from the Strip District prepared in creative ways. For an added surprise the chef will sometimes include Beignets on the day’s offerings, which are little New Orleansstyle doughnuts with a bourbon sauce and champagne glaze for dipping. Playing on the sweet and warm aroma of bourbon, guests will also find a little bourbon in the bread pudding. Whiskey Wednesdays have been running for a year now and have developed a regular clientele who travel to the city. Business professionals that often entertain guests to the city will also find themselves taking them to Braddocks. However, the restaurant also has whiskey dinners on the weekend for those visitors who only get downtown occasionally. The austere setting of the Renaissance Hotel lobby is hip enough for a night out and comfortable enough for a dinner for two. Young people are attracted to the modern details, but the real attraction is the unforgettable food and drinks. The atmosphere is sophisticated, and the food sublime. With all this revelry behind bourbon the restaurant could not pass up Derby Weekend on May 7 to celebrate the most popular day for drinking it. “For Derby we will definitely have Mint Juleps specials and have some discounted whiskey flights,” assures Eric Brown. Who knew? Whiskey is the new vodka. Braddocks American Brasserie & Streetside Bar located at 107 6th Street, Pittsburgh, PA 15222. 412.992.2005. Find them on Facebook to keep up with their whiskey adventures.
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ART
VAUDE -VILLE VIKING ARTIST BEHIND THE BEARD OF RAGNAR KJARTANSSON B Y a da m c a st l e f o r t e
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Ragnar Kjartansson is an Icelandic artist that doesn’t exactly commit to memory, as easily as say Bjork, but after spending some time with Ragnar and his artwork at the Carnegie Museum of Art, he is not easily forgotten. His engaging performance and videos, which combine bizarre props, repetitious chorus and humor, made him an international art star after his 2009 Venice Biennale. Musician, actor, sound sculptor, and all around extraordinary person, Ragnar is a special guest for the Carnegie Museum of Art, who is hosting his first solo exhibit from March 11-Septmeber 4.
Ragnar Kjartansson’s Song, is a live site specific performance set in Carnegie’s Grand Hall of Sculpture. Ragnar’s three nieces sit or lay down on a blue covered podium presumably representing the ocean or perhaps the entire globe. They sing in an enchanting angelic siren song written by Ragnar, which is based on a misremembered Allen Ginsburg poem, luring nearby museum attendees to the floor and balcony of the hall. They repeat over and over again, “The weight of the world is love” as if obsessed with this weight. While waiting in vain for love to enter the hall, they also intermittently sing “no rest without sleep, no sleep without dreams of love, of love, of love.” Seemingly arbitrary little details of the set are crucial to the fantastical setting that Ragnar evokes. The hand carved wooden combs were specifically sought out and shipped from Japan for the girls to use. They sit and sing while periodically combing their bleach blond hair or checking their bright red lipstick against their sunless skin to be sure that if and when love comes through the hall, it will be hopeless to escape their irresistible beauty. As I continued to walk about the museum in search of the other video installations, it dawned on me that the looping techniques and repetitive lyrical and rhythmic sounds he employs, were already playing out in my memory like a meditative mantra. When I asked him about this effect, he told me that the hypnotic repetition is what he likes most. Growing up in the theater, when rehearsing for a performance someone might walk into the practice and say a few words or something chance might happen then they would start the whole practice over again. It was the practice that was perfection for him as a young actor, the continuation of the present, never getting too far into the future or too far into the past. All of Mr. Kjartansson’s works presented at the Carnegie make use of this looped action with repetitive song, putting the audience in a trancelike and meditative state. When I asked him about his favorite travel destination he told me with a smile on his face, but also with a deadpan sincerity that his favorite and most romantic getaway in America was in Room 8 at the Joshua Tree Motel where Graham Parsons died of a drug overdose in 1973. I asked him what his most important fashion piece was that existed in his wardrobe at home and he said in the exact same tone it was a woolen blue suit, too hot to wear to the Joshua Tree, but crucial just the same. Favorite drink? He unflinchingly responded, “Whatever they’re having!” These lighthearted questions, perhaps more so than the rest of our hour together, revealed that Ragnar Kjartansson is a thought provoking, intelligent, charismatic and fun humanist and his artwork reflects that wholeheartedly.
This humor and depth is reflected in his work. The first video installation in this exhibition, entitled Me and My Mother, is a three channel piece where we see Ragnar standing as his own mother disapprovingly spits in his face, incessantly, pausing only to purse her lips and gather more saliva, where other mothers might purse their lips to kiss their children. More humorous than vulgar, Ragnar assured, it was actually an act of great love from a mother to her son to participate in this undertaking for the sake of her son’s art. Each video was filmed at half-decade intervals from 2000, 2005, and 2010. Ragnar and mother can be seen visibly aging across the screens. The End is the title of the largest and most visibly powerful installation in the Carnegie exhibit. It’s a five-channel color video with accompanying song. Ragnar and his friend and production crew carried a load of recording equipment, amplifiers and instruments, including a number of guitars, a banjo, a drum set and a baby grand piano into the wild and wintry expanse of the Canadian Rockies. Dressed in what you might call high-mountain fashion, the two men are garbed in wild-west dungarees, leather trench coats, cowboy boots and Daniel Boone coonskin hats. The effect is simultaneously absurd and magnificent. The framing of the videos are at times majestic in beauty and scale. The installation plays out like a fractured music video for the acoustic song with only partial elements of the whole production filmed in separate frames. The multiple screens works as a kind of puzzle, requiring our awareness in 360 degrees of an unknown and unknowable story that we can’t help but want to solve. All of the images are framed with a painters’ eye and if a painting could talk and sing and play a folk rock ballad, it might resemble what Kjartansson has accomplished here. Two more video installations are to be found throughout the museum. Satan is Real is at once a humorous and eerie video
in which the artist is buried half naked in the grass playing an acoustic guitar echoing the bluesy lyrics “Satan is real and he is working for me.” In the case of this video, it is a group of innocent young children who play about him and seem just out of reach of his threatening lyrics. The forth and final video installation The Man is a document of sorts of the late delta blues musician Pinetop Perkins. Born on a plantation and still playing his upright piano at ninety-six years old, this document is filmed in the same epic style as the others. Perkins, who is probably suffering from dementia, in effect, loops himself by cyclically ending all of his songs with the same loony tune chime or by punctuating jingle bells from time to time in between songs, adding humor to sadness once again. Ragnar says that because of Perkins American music is more honest than European music. He sees Pinetop as a kind of mythical figure, a man who was born nearly a century ago, but who is still and forever within our grasp of history. At the end of our in-depth interview, he admitted that he might be remembered as that guy who was here back in the month of March of 2011, but I believe he will be remembered in a kind of present tense. Ragnar’s work will etch and loop itself into the fabric of your cortex and remain there forever looping. 27
Like most physicians, I am intimately familiar with the chemical formaldehyde. Just hearing it spoken of immediately evokes the images and smells of the anatomy dissection lab. Formaldehyde has been in the news recently, not because of its use as a preserving agent for cadavers, but because of its alleged presence in hair straightening products and treatments like the Brazilian Blowout.
What is Formaldehyde?
Formaldehyde is a simple chemical composed of 3 elements: carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen. Among many uses, its ability to act as a tissue fixative—a substance that prevents degeneration—is widely known. By crosslinking DNA and proteins, degeneration of tissue is postponed. Because of this property, formaldehyde is widely used in microscopy and embalming. Everyone has some exposure to low levels of formaldehyde in their daily life from, for example, some foods, cigarette smoke, cosmetics, and glues.
What Role Formaldehyde Has in Hair Care
Because of its ability to fix tissue, formaldehyde has been applied to hair in order to straighten naturally curly hair. Naturally curly hair is the result of specific chemical bonds (disulfide bonds) in the proteins contained in hair. The higher the number of these bonds, the curlier the hair is. Formaldehyde breaks these bonds, allowing the hair to straighten. The formaldehyde is applied to hair and heated with an iron to a gaseous state.
Is the Formaldehyde in Hair Products Dangerous?
While it has not been definitively established that commercial hair straighteners in the US actually are manufactured containing formaldehyde, being aware of the adverse effects of formaldehyde exposure in these settings is warranted (given the detection of formaldehyde in some products obtained from hair salons by the Oregon Occupational Health and Safety Administration). Hair products are required to report to consumers if they contain greater than 0.1% formaldehyde. B Y a me s h a . a d al j a, m d
CHEMICALS IN HAIR PRODUCTS Possible Formaldehyde Dangers in
Brazilian Blowouts
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Though formaldehyde is classified as a probable carcinogen, it is highly dependent on the exposure dose. At low levels—likely the ones experienced if used in a hair salon—formaldehyde fumes will cause reversible eye irritation, mild breathing difficulties (primarily in asthmatics), and headaches.
How to protect yourself
If you are planning to utilize formaldehyde containing hair straighteners, using a mask and goggles to prevent exposure and subsequent irritation of your eyes and respiratory tract is recommended—especially if you are asthmatic. Hair salons should have policies in place that require the use of masks and eye protection when the substance is being used. Dr. Adalja, a clinical assistant professor at the University of Pittsburgh Medical Center, is board certified in Internal Medicine, Emergency Medicine, Infectious Diseases, and Critical Care Medicine. He can be reached via email at: AmeshAA@aol.com. Harmony Salon in Wexford administers an all-natural based process called a Keratin Treatment that they use instead of the formaldehyde Brazilian Blow-out. The only difference is that it is not permanent to the hair and must be reapplied after six weeks. However, like the Brazilian it does smooth and add shine to hair so it cuts down on styling time.
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PROFILE
B Y br i dge t t e c unni ngha m P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y a pr i l huba l
STYLIST TO
ROYALTY MAKES A START IN
NEW YORK
KRISTINA CHANEL Kristina Chanel knows how to turn art into work. She has dressed a varied clientele from Ke$ha to Saudi Arabian princesses. However, she isn’t a diva and doesn’t cite Carrie Bradshaw as an influence anywhere. She is a real girl making it in New York City having grown up in Los Angeles with a diverse heritage; her father is Chinese, Indonesian and her mother is a Spanish, Filipino, French immigrant. She is a natural artist in the fashion world, who doesn’t have to try too hard to fit in.
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Reflecting on her diverse and worldly upbringing she says, “I feel really fortunate, being a part of so many different races, because I’ve gotten to experience all of them and have learned so much from each culture.” She even received her name from her mother’s varied influences. “Kristina Chanel is my legal name given to me at birth, believe it or not. Funny isn’t it? My mother always had a fascination with French fashion and, I guess, wanted to name me after the great Ms. Coco.” Her first big jobs began while studying in England after creating street wear for Arabian princesses; she built a major client book, and got her first paycheck for her skills. It was the realization that this could be a career that brought her to New York after grad school, where she has worked even harder to build a client list again. However, succeeding in the fashion world in this economy is difficult. Artists and stylists can seem irrelevant when Wall Street daddies may need to start delivering pizzas. Chanel calls this group of artists and fashion world folks, “the creatives” and realizes that they’re all in a hard place to make a living out of their passions. She understands the importance of art in dressing and knows how to make herself useful. She has got strategies and real jobs as a consultant, a writer and a social butterfly. When Chanel answers the phone on Monday morning, she has just gotten back from Paris Fashion Week. She sounds like any of my friend giggling a little, and, like the rest of us, has girl crushes on the styles of Chloe Sevigny and Julia Restoin-Roitfeld. When I ask her about the trip, we delve into how her fashion career began. Her mother was her first fashion influence, and she remembers stealing her Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier pieces from her closet. It was her first taste of the avant-garde world of dressing and she credits her taste to her mother. “I got really, really lucky,” Chanel says about her introduction to Mary Fellowes, fashion director of Vogue Turkey, who she assisted while studying in London. Chanel started out studying film LA. “I asked myself, would I stay in LA the rest of my life or try something totally different and see a part of the world and get out of my comfort zone?” This led her to London for a graduate degree in Fashion Design and
Branding at Central St. Martins College of Art and Design. A chance introduction through a friend and an assistant position opening later, Chanel became assistant to Mary Fellowes. She insists that she had no previous experience and the interview just went really well. Chanel clicked with her mentor because they had similar visionary ideals and were trying to do something out of the ordinary when creating the wardrobe for an editorial. “We’d go to shows or trunk shows, always looking for a unique piece that no one else had.” Fellowes
taught her to find that quintessential piece that someone else may not have considered, and most importantly to have confidence in her work. “There are no hard rules in fashion. It’s an art form. If you believe in it, it will work.” Chanel’s forget-the-rules mantra also applies to her own personal style. When asked what trend she would banish, she replied. “I am so anti that word. People confine themselves to what’s hot right now. I don’t believe fashion is
about fitting in. I believe in clothes. Really love everything you buy because you love the color or it looks great on you. Everything recycles itself anyway.” Chanel calls her own style understated, but she isn’t afraid to experiment. She says, “I definitely like being different and standing out, but not in such an obvious way.” She is standing out because her work includes major brands and A-list celebrities. When Kate Bosworth’s new jewelry line JewelMint launched, a call was made to Chanel asking for her consultation because website needed a creative angle. Chanel started writing newsletters and helping with the overall look of the site, which added a new talent to her resume. More recently she has been dressing music artists, an idea that she loves, saying, “I can really stretch my creative limits with stage costumes. It’s an exciting area where I’m styling, dressing and designing for performance.” She has continued aspirations in the style industry, but also adds that she would like to have her own magazine someday. Her advice to aspiring stylists is to surround themselves with the people they aspire to be.
“If you have a passion for it, you’ll get into the industry in any way.” She suggests taking one step at a time, and building good relationships with anyone and everyone in the field: photographers, stylists, models, designers. “It takes a while to prove yourself,” she says. “Keep going every day; do what you need to do. Take one step forward.”
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FASHION Gold sweater by Isabel Marant, shorts by Siwy, ring by BCBG.
GOLDFINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY a pr il h u b a l S TYLED BY kri s ti na c h a n e l s u k a m t o M AKEUP BY am y park
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Not from this part of the world, the name Goldfinger originated from a Hungarian architect who designed skyscrapers in England after World War II. When Ian Fleming met him, he was inspired by his shrewd character and bold buildings to use the name Goldfinger as the villain in the seventh James Bond book series. Our Goldfinger is both desperado and artist, greedy for attention and deserving of its luster. When the world looks bleak, gold is always the best investment.
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FASHION Ruffled blouse by Anne Fontaine, pants by American Apparel, bracelet, stylist’s own.
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FASHION
Shirt by Alaia Azzedine, skirt by Topshop, gold jacket by Patricia Fields, bracelet, stylist’s own, earrings by Mawi for ASOS.
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FASHION Red vintage coat, stylist’s own. Earring and necklace set by Mawi for Asos. Gloves by La Crasia.
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T-shirt, by James Perse, shorts by American Apparel, necklace by Topshop, cuffs by Topshop.
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FASHION T-shirt, by James Perse, shorts by American Apparel, necklace by Topshop, cuffs by Topshop.
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Gold bra by Patricia Fields, earrings, by Topshop.
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MUSIC
kat
DELUNA
LATIN GODDESS OF MUSIC
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B Y j e nni f e r k m cgl i nc y
International musical powerhouse Kat Deluna is preparing for the release of her aptly titled sophomore album, Inside Out. After running into her during in New York, MANIAC caught up with her on how the opera talented Kat caught her big break in the music industry, her experiences on tour and her performance at Fashion Week. Despite the artist’s youth, she spoke in a manner that proved her wise beyond her 23 years. Her maturity and confidence aren’t surprising considering her start in the music industry and training at the New Jersey School of Performing Arts. The young starlet soon grew up in the public eye after her debut album, 9 Lives, was released in 2007 to become the top-selling single on iTunes Latino in 2007 and reached #1 in France. “I’ve been singing my whole life, ever since I was three years old; that was my first performance ever. I was always driven to choirs and competitions in the community but I feel like I really got my start after high school. I met this guy named Tyrone Edmond who has a production company and together we started to work on a more professional level [to] actually create a demo and create Kat Deluna. After shopping the product around, I finally got a deal in late 2006 with Epic/ Sony BMG.” When Kat signed her first record deal, she was only 19. In 2007, she was awarded with Los Premios MTV Latinoaméricas “Best New Artist Award”, and also scored a Billboard Latin Music Award for “Best Club Play Track of the Year” (for “Whine Up”). She went on to received “The Best Urban Artist” and “The Best New Artist” Award at the Belgium TMF Awards in 2008. Now four years later, Kat recognizes that her experience with the music industry and especially with touring, have had a profound impact on her personally and professionally. She became immediately notable as the first Dominican pop singer to cross over into the mainstream after her album went gold. “I do feel a little bit older [and] savvier, [but] I’m not a girl, not yet a woman. I feel my music this time is more influenced by the experiences that I attained while traveling with my first album, 9 Lives, three and a half years ago, when it came out. I think I’ve grown as a person intellectually [and] musically. I don’t think it’s just about the age, it’s more about the time that I have spent doing this.” Kat’s sophomore album is unique in that it offers fans two sides to her music. The album, which is already in limited release in Europe, was produced twice, with two different sounds. “There’s a European version and an American version. The European version of the album is a little bit more energetic, more dance tracks. While I was touring in Europe, I noticed that people out there like to have a good time all the time. It’s all about a party, so I made sure that I [only] had one ballad. Now with the
American version, it’s more in depth because it has more ballads. It [has] party tracks and is about experiences, but [it’s also] about me growing up as a woman.” Although Kat’s album has yet to be released in the U.S., her first track off the record has already garnered critical acclaim. “The first single is called, ‘Dancing Tonight’ and the video and single is hitting the waves soon. I actually found out last night that the dance version of the song debuted at the number one breakout for the Billboard Dance Charts, basically the most added song of the week.” The artist attributes the success to the sense of openness present on her new album. Kat credits her experiences touring and growing up as an artist to her new found self-awareness. “It’s so simple, it’s what it is. I feel like a lot of artists really fear their second album, because your second album can make or break you. Me, when you see me, that’s what you get. I am Kat Deluna, inside out, as a simple girl, here I am. I have nothing to hide. Even if you
influences my music.” According to Kat, her musical and personal styles are interchangeable. Her influences affect both her music and style of dress. The artist had the opportunity to perform and scout out some trends when she stopped by New York Fashion Week. “My style is between European and American. I think both fashions are so different but at the same so elegant and beautiful. I’m definitely that girl next door goes glamour. Right now, I’m in love with the nautical look. I love stripes; I love high-waisted pants that make you look tall. As a girl you evolve and I feel like us women [are] always playing closet.” “Fashion week is always a way to express yourself. It’s a way for you to try new trends that are probably not out. This fashion week was really interesting for me because not only was I able to visit and see designers and new trends, but I was also a part of the Style 360 event. I loved Tadashi, it was one of my favorites, but I love Jean Paul Gautier, Christian Dior and Betsey Johnson’s free spirit. When I’m out and traveling, I love to go to vintage stores. I like to find things that not necessarily have a name brand but have a style. I like things that can transcend from era to era.” Much like Kat’s powerful bravado voice she is most definitely destined to be a classic.
“It’s so simple, it’s what it is. I feel like a lot of artists really fear their second album, because your second album can make or break you. Me, when you see me, that’s what you get. I am Kat Deluna, inside out, as a simple girl, here I am. I have nothing to hide. Even if you get to see the cover of the first single, make-up wise, I have hardly any make-up on. I just want to come as me, stripped, for my fans to see.”
Go to www.maniacexchange.com to hear part of her interview and spontaneous vocal range.
get to see the cover of the first single, make-up wise, I have hardly any make-up on. I just want to come as me, stripped, for my fans to see.” Although the artist is an American born citizen, she still resonates with her Dominican heritage. Kat moved with her family to the Dominican Republic at a young age and spent many years there, before returning to the U.S. She spoke rather endearingly of her ethnicity and maintained that it is still very close to her heart. “I was born in the Bronx, to Dominican parents. Basically the minute I was born, we went to live in the Dominican Republic. My first language was Spanish, so I consider myself a Latino American. Being Latina is always about a party and the hair and the dress. It’s more like a lifestyle; you like to be over the top. When you see a Spanish person, instead of shaking your hand, they greet you with a kiss. The Dominican Republic is a very happy country and we’re very influenced by African beats. I was a melting pot, being able to understand that culture, 43
MANIAC JET-SET
In the land of
AUSTRIAN SPAS CREATIVE COUTURE TREATMENTS Imagine a place where colorful, seamless buildings nestle into the hillsides amongst endless pools of bubbling thermal water. Then imagine singing bowls placed on your body or napping in a grotto covered with Dead Sea salt. If not salt, then cover your body in fine chocolate, bathe in milk, algae, wine, mud, pumpkin oil, or elderberry. Austria’s spas are at times extreme in their creativity, but the themes are the same; wellness, balance, beauty.
BY s arah l ol l e y
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JET-SET Austrian spas Since the 1990s Austrian destination spas have been developing progressive wellness and balance treatments that tip the scales in technology and holistic healing. In the last few years, resorts have become more innovative and eco-conscious by enhancing natural local elements or using new technological advancements. During the winter months, Austrian spas remain open along side the popular ski slopes and winter attractions. In fact, so popular is the demand for winter spas that this mother of one, and a husband, surveyed the spas during their summer spa season when prices were lower.
Sacher Spa Vienna Renowned for its royal chocolate torts the Sacher Hotel in Vienna offers lovers of this healing and decadent treat an opportunity to wrap yourself in cocoa layers. Nothing could inspire me more to lick myself than to lather Sacher’s euphoric concoctions all over my body. It sounds a bit kinky, but chocolate is more than just an aphrodisiac. The secret to the treatments rejuvenating qualities is in the cacao bean butter. Whether an indulgence that fits the opulent surroundings of the Sacher Hotel or a truly unique beauty treatment, the intoxicating experience will stay with you and, in my case, attract the cuddles of my tiny daughter who enjoys applying her own chocolate facial.
One of the more popular treatments to evolve from the philosophy of balancing the mind with body is sound therapy, or sound massage. Various metal bowls are placed on your body and lightly struck to harmonize your body and mind. If you have a hard time relaxing during a massage this is an excellent way to loosen up your thoughts into meditation. By using the local elderberry the experience enlivens the senses and stimulates the mind to relax, hence the puddle-like feeling you get when you try to get up. Spending a few days floating under the moonlight in naturally heated, mineral-rich water injected into the pools from the ground can be life-changing if just for the moment you are in it. The water is actually 110 degrees Celsius when it is rises, which acts as the electricity source for the entire resort. After bubbling around the whole day the clock strikes the 10 p.m. pool curfew and shadowy figures drift indoors to rise in the heated indoor labyrinth of lounges. I had heard that Europeans tend to bath nude in thermal waters, but only once did I ever encounter a man a little too natural for my American eyes. My first thought was I must have wondered into a men’s lounge. Then I felt sorry for the old guy, he must be confused. When I reported the sight to my German-speaking husband he laughed at me. Apparently, it is allowed in some areas. Apparently I missed the American translation of wardrobe conduct.
ROGNER BAD BLUMAU
Without a doubt the colorful buildings and vast thermal pools resemble a Dr. Seuss book. 46
One of the more artistic resorts to emerge in the progression of the Austrian spa landscape is Rogner Bad Blumau located in the Styrian thermal spring region, a short ride from Vienna. Without a doubt the colorful buildings and vast thermal pools resemble a Dr. Seuss book. Its creator Friedrich Hundertwasser was a renowned sculptor and artist that believed straight lines prevent man from harmonizing with nature. The maze of oddly shaped buildings and crooked tiled floors is the back drop for eccentric forms of body and mind therapy. Like most spas in Austria, Bad Blumau offers therapies that go beyond steamy scented baths. Included in the menu of soul balancing services is a Vedic Indian Astrologer that leads yoga groups in the Vulkania waters and performs astrologic life therapy. Does it work? Who cares? The landscape and architecture is more profoundly therapeutic than having leeches detoxify your blood, which became popular a couple of years ago after Demi Moore raved about her Austrian spa trip.
LEFT: The wave pool at Bad Blumau RIGHT: Incorporating the theme of its design, buildings are called Brick, Art, and Stone Houses.
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STYLE
Olivia Kissel
TEMPTING THE WORLD TODANCE BY s arah l ol l e y P HOTOGRA P HY BY k a thy wol fe
MAVIDA In the Salzburg region spas are located amongst lakes and mountains that promote the purity of the air and water. Not far from the German border, the Mavida Wellness Hotel & Spa in Zell am See uses the finest technology and trained therapists to help people live carefree lives. For example, the Floatarium is suppose to resemble what it feels like to be in a mother’s womb by using high salt concentrates in a water tank, but this mother found out that if you are still healing from breast-feeding you might want to skip this experience. Another contemporary calming mechanism is the Floating Couch, which is basically a waterbed that you rest upon while a long list of concoctions are massaged and lathered into the skin. Needing to heal parts of my salt-soaked body this towel-clad adventurer chose goat’s milk and honey. The massage they used was the exclusive Haki Stretch & Relax developed by Austrian native Harald Kitz. By using slight vibrations on pressure points it uses some of the philosophy of sound therapy. Yet another invention to accentuate nature, The Blue Box recreates life in the clouds by using a vibrating bed, color therapy, and sound. The real thing, however, is not far away. Riding a bike around the lake before jumping into the crystal blue lake and staring up at the mountains also works. For all the glory of mashing mud in your face or soaking in hot briny water, the most gracious of experiences is the adventure spas offer to your soul. It invigorates you to try new things.
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TOP: Einstieg Pool at Mavida Balance Hotel & Spa, which was voted one of Austria’s Best Hotels in 2011. ABOVE:The Blue Box is a multi-sensory, experience using tune, light, and movement that combines the exceptional quality of deep relaxation with inspiring and energetic effects. LEFT: Bar Blick zu Theke at Mavida where wines are supplied from a walk-in “vinotheque”, an innovative glass landmark within the restaurant.
The seductive art of dance is as ancient as love, and as culturally diverse as the world itself. Zafira Dance Company takes the body languages of the world and mirrors them into their performances. Owner and founder of Zafira, Olivia Kissel configures the primal hypnotic elements of belly dancing and the choreographed grace of ballet into her stage performances. Along with her dancers, she dresses in ornate jewelry pieces that web around their undulating bodies. Many of their outfits seem romantic of another time and place. “I am drawn to antique silver and the lines of Art Nouveau and Deco pieces,” says Olivia. “Alfons Mucha artwork is a huge influence.” Olivia frequently travels with her dance company to Europe and Russia where she picks up pieces from festivals and flea markets. “My two favorite places to shop are Art Deco vintage clothing shops in Prague and the main flea market in Barcelona. There are some great designers that have booths there.” When she is not studying folkloric, urban, and classical dance forms to incorporate in performances and her classes taught at the Zafira Studios, she is designing costumes and jewelry. “I have a line of jewelry called Beyond Konflict where I take apart old pieces of jewelry and textiles and use these elements to create pieces that have surprising lines and texture. I get inspiration from old photographs, museums, other designers and the women of the many cultures that are the source of much of my material.” Her intricate drapes, necklaces, and earrings tell the stories of the many countries she has visited. They look like relics captured from a faraway place and pieced together to be new again. Of the many countries that she has captivated Ireland, Spain, the Netherlands, Czech Republic, Austria, United Kingdom and Russia remain under her spell. She will be returning to Europe, Australia, and Russia this fall with Zafira, bringing her mixture of carnal interpretations to the world. Classes in Belly Dance, Bhangra, Pilates, Samba, and Afro-Modern Classes are available at her South Side Studio. For more information go to www.zafirastudios.com or www.oliviakissel.com. 49
maniac products Grape Antioxidant Serum (top left bottle) uses extracts to reinforce collagen and capillary walls. Apricot Whip Moisturizer (middle small pot) enriches normal/ dry skin types with vitamins found in apricot and carrot juices. Cranberry Pomegranate Masque (bottom small pot) is delicious masque loaded with whole fruits, seeds and juice. Tomato Sun Cream (top pot) is perfect moisturizer with UVA/UVB sun protection. Raspberry Pore Refining Masque (second pot down) tightens pores with an astringent effect. Blueberry Soy Repair Masque (bottom pot) is blended with non-GMO soy yogurt to plump up dehydrated summer skin. Naseberry Cranberry Body Wash (pump bottle) is delicious smoothie for your skin with gentle exfoliation. Starter box kit with Eight Greens Youth Serum (box set) uses organic phyto-estrogens to lift facial contours and treat signs of again. Products available at Judit European Day Spa, Hungarian Visage in the South Side.
PIZZA SOLA AD
organic fruits for SKIN BY s arah l ol l e y
Feed your skin organic fruits and vegetables from the beauty kitchens of Hungary. Éminence is a Hungarian product that uses secrets from fruits like the indigenous Naseberry to create moisturizing goodness or age-defying serums. Celebrities like Katherine Heigl use the product that can only be bought through spas or through online retailers.
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MANIAC EVENTS
B Y d o m in ic ja n id a s
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y bi l l sc hm i t t
maniac EVENTS
ALL YOU NEED IS LOVE. The Beatles said it best: “All you need is love.” Our MANIACs all over Pittsburgh joined us at Braddock’s American Brasserie to help celebrate the launch of our “Love” issue. The CW and Mattress World’s stunning spokeswoman, Brandi Engel, not only graced the cover of our latest edition, but certainly added to the glamour of the night as well. Braddocks is located in the Renaissance Hotel’s majestic and austere lobby. With romantic lighting, a gorgeous rustic-meets-modern décor and a grandiose two-tiered staircase that looks like something straight out of a royal palace, the venue was the perfect place for love and all things MANIAC. Keeping true to the love theme, the event benefited an organization that is close to our hearts, The Max Talbot Foundation, which gives aid to children in
need. With the help of all you MANIACs, we raised a great deal of money for the foundation with over 400 in attendence! Unbelievable! As any MANIAC party would have, many of Pittsburgh’s elite showed up to support the magazine and the great cause. Among the attendees was Pittsburgh mayor Luke Ravenstahl, Ronda Zegarelli, and Anthony Jardine of the band These Lions. As if the room couldn’t have been more filled with beautiful and talented people, Black Swan’s Ksenia Solo, actor Harrison Thomas and musician/actor Jesse McCartney all showed up to party with us for the night. They were in town filming their pilot for Locke & Key. It was awesome to party with some local and national celebs, MANIAC-style, to support a great cause. Thank you to all who made it a fantastic night to be remembered!
“It was awesome to party with some local and national celebs, MANIAC-style.”
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Designers from around world are dreamers that begin each season trying to capture some of their spellbinding vision into textile creations. Some of our favorites that we experienced at New York Fashion Week for Fall 2011 were born in a faraway place, but came here to showcase their designs. BY sar ah l ol l e y PHO TO GRAPHY BY a pri l huba l additional photos by s ara h lo lle y
NICOLE MILLER
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FASHION Charlotte Ronson continues to transform her proper English upbringing into a laidback chic affair. From the Netherlands G-Star Raw is always having fun with concept and function. Custo Barcelona is a very much a Spanish label whose designer Custo Dalmau is inspired by California. Catherine Malandrino’s French origins are unmistakable in her crocheted leggings and wide-brimmed hats that scream fancy and fun. New to the shows is the designer Jane Ibrahim, born in Hong Kong, who founded Maisonette 1977 and has created a beautiful weave of textures and zippers in her new line. For all these designers they pulled from cultural textures like a pattern in an Indian rug or a fringe from a cabaret dress, to sculpt their garments. The affect captured a truly American ideal of mixing it all up.
DISCOVERING
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK 2011
Behind the Scenes This year I got to go behind the scenes for some of the shows to see how productions begin with hair and make-up. Stylists behind the scenes use themes to glue the entire presentation together like with hair styles or leggings. They give a collection its cohesiveness and can also diversify the type of garments according to what the buyers in the audience are looking to purchase. Phillip Bloch, stylist to the stars, took the time at Malandrino to tell me his thoughts on the process. “Stylists work with designers to give a collection direction when it isn’t being brought on its own like with a green tee-shirt at the BCBG show.” Many times designers will offer a similar dress with subtle nuances to appeal to the tastes of buyers, however, without flare the affect can be monotonous to watch. A true master of mixing in textures and colors Custo Barcelona chose to tone down his normally wild arrangements into softer, but equally as intricate designs. The backstage scene was the most crazed with hair and make up teams running around making sure the models had the right pair of shoes on. Christian Siriano chose to add a little drama to his presentation by challenging his models to walk in 10 inch platform stilettos while using a dark orchid color throughout the tailored coatinspired line. We counted two wipeouts on the catwalk. By using skinny belts over thick belts Rebecca Taylor created a cohesive collection drawing in all of the pieces with a common colors palette. Charlotte Ronson recycled the chunky socks from her previous season that stood out as a throwback to the 90s, when people wore socks with sandals. All these little details made by designers or stylist are like the paintbrush strokes used to complete a runway show.
BEHIND THE SCENES AT Custo Barcelona
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FASHION
Custo Barcelona MAISONETTE 1977
Textures
NICOLE MILLER
This year themes were full of fine tailoring and earthy inspirations. Many designers like Rebecca Minkoff mixed textures of tweeds, wool, lace, and leather into a collection of urban gypsy bohemian. She introduced her shoe and handbag lines along with her apparel. Mara Hoffman’s presentation epitomized worldly influences by mixing Peruvian knits with ornate tribal jewelry from All for the Mountain. Proenza Schouler also used rich Navajo patterns and crochets to weave a warm array of colors and textures into a comfortable chic collection. There were also architecture inspired lines. Alexander Wang and Jason Wu used construction variations in coats and parkas. Perry Ellis inspired his menswear lines with nature inspired architecture, ending his structured show with gorgeous guy models in their underpants. Lines, and gradient colors characterized Nicole Miller’s collection of dresses, vests, and belted coats that were pieced together for an inspiring futuristic wardrobe.
Playful Sophist -ication
charlotte ronson
We are in an age of necktie blouses and pleated bottoms. Many womens-wear collections were also inspired by menswear separates, which kept the pieces accessible for pairings with past seasons. L.A.M.B. showcased plaid pants paired with sculpted coats with playful neckties. Ruffian used tuxedos as their starting point with big high hair styles and bowtie collars painted on fingernails. Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger, and Prabal Gurung channeled suits in their collections that resembled a return to sophisticated dressing over edgier styles. Longer hemlines are also giving the season a different silhouette segueing from the lacey romantic 90s influence of the spring. Gone are the miniskirts and ruffles. The colors for the season used tones of red from burgundy to burnt orange. Bill Blass used red as a pop of color in the most elegant of coats for the season. Eva Minge based her show in the basement of the Hudson Hotel on the dynamic of red against black. Contrasting red were also the deep teals and blues like at Tadashi Shoji. Color schemes like at Jill Stuart and Cynthia Rowley were full of color-blocking variations and hemlines just below the knee. At Rowley models in vintage styled undies meandered around in the background of the catwalk before getting dressed to walk a worn out hard wood runway. Dutch design house G-Star Raw brought star-studded fan base to the tents this year to their vintage explorer inspired show. We spotted last year’s Maniac Undercover Tinsley Mortimer at the show who said she had framed her copy of the magazine. The military style topcoats and waxed jeans of Pierre Morisset, the French designer behind G-Star, were quirky and whimsical. Each model seems to embody a character in a movie about to unfold.
NICOLE MILLER
Charlotte ronson
EVA MINGE
Custo Barcelona
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Custo Barcelona
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category FASHION header
TRESSA Watercolors Color Maintenance Shampoo Violet Washe SEXY HAIR Soy Mellow
PRODUCT
-holic
Shimmer -ing Details The glitz continued to be replaced with shimmer like at Vivienne Tam who weaved beautiful embroidered dragons, stylized wind, fire, and clouds into her inspired garments. She credited the 600-year old Kun Opera as her inspiration. Further afield from the tents, Marc Jacobs even mixed technology into the mix with rubberized sequins that looked shiny over sparkly. Other shows like Erickson Beamon ramped up the sparkles with a presentation at Milk Studios that included ballerinas, a violin player, and opera singer. The breathtaking treatment was accompanied by champagne, instantly there the audience fell in love with all that sparkle. In the end, the best part of Fashion Week was experiencing the recharge of the fashion world. A sweater isn’t just a knit; it’s a story that began as the color of a sunset on the Mediterranean Sea or a pattern found on a Chinese building. Whether at the tents at Lincoln Center or at the halls of Milk Studios, the affect was riveting when seated or standing next to the textile works of art. For those moments we could see how getting dressed in the morning can bring those amazing places closer to us.
ERICKSON BEAMON
LANCôME Color Design 5 Shadow & Liner Palette in Pink Envy
MANIACS LATEST PICKS
REDKEN Color Extend Rich Recovery Protective Treatment Sexy hair Power Straight Straightening Balm
SEXY HAIR Soy Paste Texture Pomade SEXY HAIR Big Volumizing Dry Shampoo
SEXY HAIR Blow It Up Gel-to-Foam Styler 58
LANCôME Butterflies Fever Healthy Glow Mineral Blusher
LANCôME Génifique Youth Activating Concentrate
SEXY HAIR Smooth & Protect Flat Iron Hairspray All hair products courtesy of Harmony Salon.
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Profile With a romantic, but edgy sensibility Rebecca Taylor has charmed celebrities, boutiques and department stores with her classic, but youthful style. For this journalist she was also a much needed smile during the stress and party scene at New York Fashion Week. I was five months pregnant when I first met Rebecca at an after party for her Fall 2010 collection. Because of the celebrity popularity of her runway show that year I was shut out of the presentation, however, the organizers let me attend the after-party across the street from the tents. I felt like Humpty Dumpty standing next to Carmen Electra who looked at me and asked for approval of her ponytailed hair before greeting the press. I said, caught off guard, “It’s a great hawk. It’s you.” Although I hadn’t prepared an interview I got in line to talk with Rebecca. Describing Rebecca as lovely doesn’t justify her calm and collected demeanor amongst the melee around her. When it was my turn she eagerly told me about her twin daughters and son, and how she would love to be able to design a children’s line. As a mother she is often inspired by how excited her children get about fashion and colors. After studying fashion in New Zealand she came to New York with little money, but lots of moxie. Her talents eventually landed her at Cynthia Rowley where she worked for six years before her first runway show debut in 1999 with her namesake company. Her name is now synonymous with established celebrities like Sarah Jessica Parker, Uma Thurman, Cate Blanchett, Beyonce and Kate Winslet as well as new faces like Lauren Conrad, Taylor Swift, Kristen Bell and Whitney Port. However, glamour and glitz is far from the laid back chic identity that the Rebecca Taylor brand embodies. It is exactly what the famous and fashionable wear when they are appearing as normal people instead of characters in a drama or show. The second time I met her was for the Spring 2011 collection. I had brought my baby to Fashion Week because I was breast feeding and I decided he was the best accessory a mom could have. Not! I remembered all his baby gear but in my haste forgot to put my garment bag, containing carefully choreographed outfits, in my suitcase. I looked like a baggy housewife when I showed up for Rebecca’s after-party at a swanky glass roofed nightclub. This time when I went to interview her, ready with my recorder, the batteries popped out as I again regarded how calm she was amongst the cacophony of conversations surrounding her. “You must be tired,” I muttered looking for the batteries. “No, not at all. Do I look tired?” She replied.
“That must be me. I should have left the babe at home.” As I was fumbling for my batteries I noticed her sparkly blue oxfords at the end of her casual jeans; comfort and shine. I regarded that meeting as another testimony to her good manners and gracious sentiment in everything she does. That inspiration is easy to see in her vintage floral prints with prairie sleeves emboldened with rich colors and beaded bursts. Inspired by pretty things, she creates looks perfect for an urban garden party; they are playful designs with a sophisticated air. “I like to design clothing that women can wear and feel good in. The Rebecca Taylor girl knows pretty, but she is not overly precious. I design with that girl in mind.” Rebecca said after her recent Fall 2011 runway presentation. This you she forwent the parties, but made time to answer questions from me. For this season she looked for patterns that reflected her sentiment. She explained, “This season I was inspired by Ross Bleckner’s paintings, blurred images and sparkling lights.” The star bursts of color and striations of tones are reflected perfectly in the textiles she created for her separates and frocks. Common to her collections is universal neutrality that she applies to her style compositions that gives her artistic interpretations a wider brush with consumers. The pieces easily fit into any wardrobe. “I feel there are no real cardinal rules when it comes to fashion. I think women should have fun with fashion. I love camels and greys. They are easy to wear and look great when paired with bold colors or patterns.” Although, my disheveled chic style may be a far cry from the posture of Rebecca Taylor, her collections are always filled with wearable flirty, but refined designs that any woman, including me, can appreciate and wear with delight. America’s star Kiwi designer earned her sparkle by striking a chord that resonates in all women. Her designs, much like herself, are graceful, flirty, and simply pretty
“I like to design clothing that women can wear and feel good in. The Rebecca Taylor girl knows pretty, but she is not overly precious. I design with that girl in mind.”
B Y be t hi e g i r m a i P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y he c t o r co r a nt e
Designer Profile:
GRACE, GLAMOUR & GIRL TALK B Y sa r a h l o l l e y
WITH NEW ZEALAND DESIGNER
REBECCA TAYLOR 60
Visit Rebecca Taylor at her newly opened flagship store in the Meatpacking District (34 Gansevoort St, NY, NY 10014). 61
HUSBAND UPGRADE “If you don’t travel, you’re either ignorant or unlucky.” My cousin, whose father was a pilot, made this announcement to me when I was ten years old. I fell into both categories, and the snobbery of that statement stuck with me. Travel, and a desire to leave the nest of one’s hometown, became something I associated with pompous a-holes. Ironically, years later, I was cast on MTV’s “Road Rules.” This show, airing before the onslaught of reality television, was basically a travel documentary consisting of six young people participating in weekly “missions” while travelling in an RV. It was through this life-changing adventure that I realized that in some way my cousin was right, although his decision to share his opinion revealed his own kind of ignorance. The season of “Road Rules” that I originally participated in was in Australia, but the subsequent shows took me to England, Germany, the Czech Republic, Tobago, Africa, and Thailand. When I was originally cast I was the typical young, naïve, Christian, girl-next-door. The producers were counting on me having some sort of epiphany about how sheltered I was. And I did. In some strange way, I gave up the faith of my childhood and replaced it with a spirituality found in connecting with the world. I imagine that almost anyone who has sat on a beach and heard waves splash against the rocks or witnessed the majesty of the Grand Canyon experienced spirituality in a similar way. Because my ex-husband had a “normal” job and a child, it didn’t leave us much opportunity to travel, at least not as a family. This led to me participating in some of the MTV Challenges while I was married, and while I always behaved properly with regards to my marriage, it was not exactly a spiritual retreat. The producers provided us with copious amounts of alcohol and little else to distract us from our own thoughts (i.e. no phones, internet, TV, iPods, etc). There was an immense amount of down time that allowed me to reflect on what I really wanted out of life. It seemed so many of my friends had what I call cookie-cutter lives: suburban homes, multiple children, and jobs they hated. I needed something more and a big part of the equation involved seeing the world. On the other hand, there is plenty of virtue and appeal found in being a “homebody.” Being comfortable in your nest is something that can reveal the peace you have in the world you’ve created. In fact, when I am in Pittsburgh, I am never happier than when I am in my jammies on the couch with a book and a glass of wine. Slowing down to reflect on my travels truly is living.
Warwick Castle in Warwickshire, England
The importance of travel for me is in its ability to stop the cycle of work deadlines and “Everybody Loves Raymond” reruns. Seeing the world from a new angle can change everything—it certainly did for me. My “husband upgrade” – Adam, my Englishman extraordinaire - is in complete agreement that travel can shape you as an individual, which is part of what made us so compatible. I met him when he was living in Thailand, but he had also lived in Hong Kong, and his passport has stamps from over thirty countries. What attracted me to this lifestyle and this man who lives it isn’t the glam factor or hobnobbing in Vail. In fact, you’re more likely to see me getting Malaysian food from a street vendor than schmoozing at the Four Seasons. Authenticity for me means experiencing a place unfettered by the high life of tourism. In contrast, I have a friend who tends to be attracted to fancy-pants Ivy-leaguers. I wanted to challenge her preference for prestige because I thought there were a lot of great fellas out there who she might be snubbing. I asked her whether she would be willing to date a working class guy—perhaps someone in a union like a bus driver or a steelworker. After a long silence, she said, “Yes, as long as he has a passport.” What she was saying is that willingness to travel reveals an open-mind; a readiness to see beyond the confines of your own world. Leaving your comfort zone can help you see where you come from more clearly. Basically, if you never leave your house, you won’t know if it stinks. This endorsement for travel can seem like an elitist pitch ala Marie Antoinette’s alleged proclamation to, “Let them eat cake.” However, the bottom line is that travel is expensive, time-consuming, and just not possible for many people who have children, have demanding jobs, or just simply aren’t in a place in their life that facilitates dropping everything for a good deal on Priceline. Furthermore, I realize that some people will just never be cut out for the scary nature of foreign countries. My mother,
I asked her whether she would be willing to date a working class guy —perhaps someone in a union like a bus driver or a steelworker. After a long silence, she said, “Yes, as long as he has a passport.”
HUSBAND UPGRADE The world is my oyster BY s u s ie m e is t e r
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Musée du Louvre in Paris, France
“If you don’t travel, you’re either ignorant or unlucky.” My cousin, whose father was a pilot, made this announcement to me when I was ten years old. I fell into both categories, and the snobbery of that statement stuck with me.
who by the way thinks Lake Erie is an exotic destination spot, is one of those Pittsburghers that thinks the South Hills is a land of leprechauns and unicorns. The good news, I think, is that the shift in your thinking that can come from travel can come from other things as well. Taking a cooking class, having an open dialogue with someone who disagrees with your political views, or even attending a religious service at a different faith’s place of worship can evoke many of the same epiphanies. I am grateful that I have a partner who gave up everything familiar to him in order to live in Asia, learn the language, and work amongst the locals. And, yet despite all of the effort it takes to acclimate to a new continent, when we fell in love, he left it all for perhaps the even more foreign world of Pittsburgh. Maybe Jane Austen was right; love really does make fools of us all. In reflection, our lives are enriched by the ability to see other places and people with lives so different, yet so similar to our own. When I was a child I wanted to change the world; now I realize that seeing the world changed me.
Ancient City in Bangkok, Thailand
Arc de Triomphe overlooking Eiffel Tower Paris, France
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art
ART BECOMES FASHION Roberto capucci’s textile sculptures B Y do m i ni c j a ni da s
The question of whether fashion is art has always been relevant since humans began wearing clothes. A new exhibit at the Philadelphia Museum of Art is presenting the work of Italian designer Roberto Capucci as a high art form, an exception on the terrain of fashion. They have aptly named it “Art into Fashion.”
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The Italian artist/designer is a master of color and architecture. Since his beginnings in the 1950’s, Capucci has made a strong and vibrant impact on the fashion community. He captured the Hollywood spotlight with admirers such as Marilyn Monroe, Ester Williams and Gloria Swanson. The 80-year-old artist has impressed European art and fashion lovers during his long career. He also captivated his concepts upon an American audience, helping to shape the way clothing designers view their natural surroundings, the art of fashion, and the human form. The museum has recognized Roberto Capucci’s profound work and contribution to the art and fashion world by presenting the first United States exhibition of his works. The exhibition highlights 83 pieces of Capucci genius, supplied by the Roberto Capucci Foundation. “He trained as an artist. His starting point is not the fabric or a woman’s body,” explained Dilys Blum, the senior curator for the exhibit. “He is creating what he calls a ‘habitat’ - what a woman can live in.” When looking at Capucci’s work, it is evident that his inspiration comes from an organic landscape; everything from the bright colors down to the very implementation of the fabric. His designs can be interpreted to be taken from the Italian landscape. Blum built his concepts for the exhibit on that inspiration and elaborates it was not just the Italian landscape, but all Italian culture - music, art, heritage and architecture - that inspired his motivation to bring Capucci’s work to Philadelphia. The exhibition is unique in that it is offering patrons an enormously diverse look into the mind of a genius, as Blum describes the artist, as well as an introspective take on concepts that have made Capucci legendary in Europe and Asia. Interestingly enough, he is said to have been rarely featured in any of the fashion magazines, which hindered Capucci’s exposure in the States. However it did not, in the slightest, affect his career or work. A testimony to his poignant effect, the “un-sung hero” of the fashion and art world has moved people to tears with his designs and concepts. The museum hopes to evoke that kind of passionate reaction from visitors to the exhibit. A rather large turnout is already expected from early press. “[Art into Fashion] actually has a much wider appeal than just for women,” said Blum. “It’s the construction. [Men and women]
recognize that it’s architecture, it’s sculpture, and it’s not just wearable. Women come to it from a different role – How would I look in that? ” Blum hopes that Roberto Capucci himself might even make an appearance while the survey is running. The museum is also hosting a student fashion competition for local art and design institutes called “Project Capucci,” which will showcase student designs inspired by Capucci. MANIAC regards this artist as tantamount to our ideals as art and fashion lovers. We love monumental designs that capture the world we live in. Roberto Capucci embodies that spirit in a breathtaking and soul lifting way.
“[Art into Fashion] actually has a much wider appeal than just for women,” said Blum. “It’s the construction. [Men and women] recognize that it’s architecture, it’s sculpture, and it’s not just wearable. Women come to it from a different role – How would I look in that? ”
“Roberto Capucci: Art into Fashion” presented by the Philadelphia Museum of Art runs from March 16 through June 5. For more information: www.philamuseum.org.
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MANIAC EVENTS
B Y c h e ls e a l. d a nl e y
P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y c hr i st i na shi e l ds
LIGHTS, GLAMOUR, ACTION. If you’ve ever dreamed of going to the Academy Awards then Pittsburgh’s “Lights, Glamour, Action!” Oscars party is the next best thing. On February 27th, the Pittsburgh Film Office rolled out the red carpet for an evening full of glamour, sponsored by Highmark. At this 11th annual event every organization in the Pittsburgh film industry was represented and over 900 people filled the North Shore’s new Stage AE. Some of the guests even included actors Ksenia Solo, who appeared in Black Swan, and Harrison Thomas, who were in town shooting the Locke & Key pilot series. For others, it was a chance to put on your best dress and mingle with the local film moguls. How could a MANIAC resist an event of this caliber? The Oscars viewing party met the Oscars after-party with a big helping
of VIPs, exquisite drinks, food, a silent auction, and fashion show. It was an evening full of flashing cameras while the event organizers even gave out its own Academy Awards to the evening’s best dressed to yours truly! However, let me say that the Fashion Police didn’t need to condemn anyone on this fabulous night. Partyers got to enjoy watching the live telecast on a big screen, hosted by Anne Hathaway is now a Pittsburgh film actress alum after her success in Love and Other Drugs. The event also served as a fundraiser to benefit the Pittsburgh Film Office, who is working on hopefully bringing an Oscar to Pittsburgh by bringing in hit movies…you never know. Pittsburgh seems to be ever evolving into ‘Holly-burgh,’ a hotspot for film, fashion, and the glamorous life! ch e l s e a l . d a n l e y
“It was a chance to put on your best dress and mingle with the local film moguls.”
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Lead in lipstick! Aluminum in deodorant! Parabens in body lotion! Pthalates in fragrances! It’s time to ask yourself: is your beauty routine killing you? If you’re a beauty MANIAC, chances are you’re certainly no stranger to frightening stories in the mainstream media of chemicals in cosmetics and personal care products. Even the skeptic has surely, at one time or another, found herself perplexed in the shower after trying to pronounce the names of ingredients listed on the back of her shampoo bottle. “Methyl-iso-thiazo-WHAT” you may recall? And judging by the mercurial nature of current research on the long-term hazards of these chemicals, it is seemingly more beneficial to err on the side of caution. “The average makeup-wearing woman will ingest six pounds of lipstick in her lifetime,” says Marianne Skiba. Skiba is an Emmy Awardwinning celebrity makeup artist and owner of the enchanting new Glam Earth Natural & Organic Beauty Boutique in Washington, PA. Given that many lipsticks are tainted with trace amounts of heavy metals like lead, she likens their application to “slow-feeding yourself a neurotoxin.” After even a brief discussion with Skiba on the health hazards of beauty products, one is inclined to thoroughly purge the bathroom and vanity of all unnatural shower gels, toothpaste, shaving creams, baby care items, mascaras, powders and the like. “When you add all of these products together, you’re looking at what might be a significant toxic load,” warns Skiba. “So many women complain about fatigue, depression and hormonal imbalances. How much of this is linked to products?” Think about the total quantity of creams, powders and liquids that you apply daily to your face, body and scalp; imagine how many synthetic chemicals you may be absorbing or inhaling as a result. Skiba reiterates that not understanding the effects of the chemicals is the greatest danger to consumers. Furthermore, bath and shower products have the added risk of contaminating the drinking water supply. Talk about watching one’s health go down the drain. To add insult to injury, consumers need to also be wary of false advertising. Many companies label products “organic” or “allnatural” just to stay one step ahead of eco-savvy shoppers, all the while selling formulas that still contain the ingredients listed below. Be smart. Read labels and protect yourself. Know your enemy: • Lead - trace amounts found in lipstick; studies link larger amounts to brain damage,
CHEMICALS IN COSMETICS
Health
Local efforts to get the lead out of looking beautiful BY ka th eri n e reel
mental retardation, behavior problems, anemia and more. • Aluminum compounds - found in antiperspirants; studies link to cancer and Alzheimer’s. • Petrochemicals (petroleum, mineral Oil, paraffin) - non-renewable, potentially impure substances derived from crude oil. • Parabens (methyl- ethyl- propyl- and butylparaben) - synthetic preservatives added to extend shelf life; proven hormonal disruptors. • Chemical sunscreens (oxybenzone and avobenzone) - endocrine disruptors linked to infertility and estrogen dominance. • Phthlates - common synthetics found in nail polish, perfume and soft plastic packaging that have been found to cause neurological and reproductive damage in laboratory animals. Yet another angle to examine is the potential of synthetic ingredients to cause allergies and skin irritations. According to Dr. Michael Huwe, chiropractor and founder of the Obsessed Minerals cosmetic line in Pittsburgh, dermal reactions are the most easily noticeable side effects of toxins in beauty products. After all, it is not likely for a consumer to immediately recognize the gradual neurological damage which may occur with long-term lipstick usage. Huwe notes that “synthetic red dyes in particular are notorious for eye and skin irritations,” especially the red dye #27, which is derived from petroleum or coal tar sources. Huwe takes every precaution in avoiding these
chemical dyes, which is amazing given her ample color selection. “Obsessed Minerals are 98% natural,” Huwe proudly states. “The only chemical ingredient I use is a mild anti-microbial agent.” Obsessed Minerals offers professional quality, hand-pressed mineral cosmetics in a stunning array of colors and finishes, not to mention there are “no parabens, bismuth oxychloride, loose talc, and no animal cruelty.” You can find Obsessed Minerals at Glam Earth Boutique, along with other organic and natural beauty brands such as Ecco Bella (flower-based), 100% Pure (fruit-based), Suncoat (vegan) and more. Each product Marianne Skiba carries must meet her strict criteria. “Everything I have in this store is safe, and it’s made with integrity by reliable people,” she says. Good to know, because in today’s world, a girl’s got to have options. Lastly, many of you may find yourselves exasperated at the thought of re-instituting your potentially massive hoard of beauty and personal care products with safer choices. While such an endeavor might wreak havoc on your wallet, it’s beneficial to think about replacement on a piece-by-piece basis. Remember, it’s all about the baby steps. Glam Earth Boutique is located at The Shoppes at Quail Acres, 1445 Washington Rd Building 3, Washington, PA 15301 724.228.GLAM For more information on Obsessed Minerals, visit www.mineralobsessed.com 67
MANIAC SHOPS
MANIAC SHOPS
MICHAEL KORS Product Name Here
B Y r e b e c c a t udi
earth
Starter box kit with Eight Greens Youth Serum (box set) uses organic phytoestrogens to lift facial contours and treat signs of again.
Angel
From the clay tones of spring’s neutral collections, stylist Bridgette Cunningham shopped the streets of Pittsburgh to dress our Earth Angel. Neutral looks with embellishments like sequins, patterns, or draping give a classic color pizazz. The range of color isn’t just khaki to camel. Beautiful blush, nudes tones, taupe, and champagne colors are soft neutrals making a big statement this season. Although these hues may seem tricky to pull off, they’re actually sophisticated, chic, and smart purchases because they’ll go far in your closet. The neutral canvas is easy to accessorize and creates a lovely fashion-forward look that can translate from day to evening with a change of bright colored accessories.
MICHAEL KORS Product Name Here
Sticking to natural hues Bridgette visited MANIAC’s favorite boutiques. Hip’tique, the ultrahip boutique in Shadyside carries top trends at affordable prices. Store owners Keisha and Leah carefully select their inventory to deliver a range of prices that leaves something for everyone, from maxi dresses to blouses. Pageboy Salon in Lawrenceville is a onestop shop for hair-styling, tailoring, and unique fashions like up-cycling line Buttercup Blues. Reflect Apparel in Settlers Ridge is owned by the young and talented Jenn and Kristy, who select the best pieces and give advice on celebrity fashion. E.B. Pepper is consistent shopping gem that carry upscale contemporary brands like Alice+Olivia and Elizabeth and James among other high-end, quality lines.
MICHAEL KORS
MICHAEL KORS
Product Name Here
Product Name Here
Starter box kit with Eight Greens Youth Serum (box set) uses organic phytoestrogens to lift facial contours and treat signs of again.
NEED CREDITS
P HOTO GRAPHY BY ka thy wol fe S T YLED BY bri dgette cunni ng h a m H A I R & M A KEUP BY v anes s a a vo lio & joet t e bankes , brett j ames s a lo n M ODELED BY s arah s tev ens , d o ch ert y model s
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Starter box kit with Eight Greens Youth Serum (box set) uses organic phytoestrogens to lift facial contours and treat signs of again.
Starter box kit with Eight Greens Youth Serum (box set) uses organic phytoestrogens to lift facial contours and treat signs of again.
MICHAEL KORS Product Name Here
Starter box kit with Eight Greens Youth Serum (box set) uses organic phytoestrogens to lift facial contours and treat signs of again.
MICHAEL KORS Product Name Here
Starter box kit with Eight Greens Youth Serum (box set) uses organic phytoestrogens to lift facial contours and treat signs of again.
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guide
MANIAC GUIDE BY chelsea l d anley
WHERE TO GO FOR THAT ULTIMATE ZEN EXPERIENCE
LOW RES
Judit
ESSpa
Judit Day spa, located on Pittsburgh’s South Side, is owned by mother Elizabeth Konecsni and daughter Judit Tarr. This Hungarian motherdaughter duo opened the spa in 2006 and is gaining recognition as a quaint paradise amidst the bustling restaurants and bars of East Carson Street. The environment’s exclusivity allows them to offer a much more personal and relaxing service. The owners are never shy to break out the champagne and appetizers as a treat to clients. When it comes to massages, their masseuse Janine was trained in Germany to give medical massages and they have a room for couples looking for a tranquil treat together. They also offer longer lasting manicures with Shellac nail products so you look put-together longer thanks to manicurist Tu. Their pedicures even keep some of their clientele away from the doctor’s office. With all these above average services it is easy to see why patrons have become committed to this little place of pampering and intimate details. This spa goes even further by extending their worldly skills to their facial treatments that have inspired many patrons to make Judit’s effective skin treatments part of their routine regimen. Part of the secret is the organic Hungarian product line called Eminence. So keep in mind that a little bit of fine European indulgence is just a walk down the street.
ESSpa Kozmetica provides an escape to a timeless, romantic village right in the Fox Chapel area. This large historic building has been transformed into a European hillside, showcasing beautiful murals as the landscape. While ESSpa is dedicated to the enjoyment and luxurious pampering of all their clients, the root is better life and skin. When owner Eva Sztupka moved from Hungary to America, she could not find the skin care treatments that she grew up with. So she opened her own spa with her own unique approach and has since been named Pittsburgh’s Best Spa in various periodicals and online sources since 2005! Scott Kerschbaumer, the owner’s husband, commends his wife for creating products that embrace the concept of “old world meets new world.” ESSpa is actually one of only twelve founding members of the prestigious Green Spa Network, ensuring only the most natural products are absorbed into your skin. While her grandmother mixed ingredients straight from her garden, Eva takes organic Hungarian products and enhances them with fresh local ingredients. In addition, they use the exclusive Hungarian Ilike organic skincare line. ESSpa accommodates each individual’s skincare needs by customizing each organic facial personally. Visit the intimate treatment houses at ESSpa for a replenishing escape with old world appeal.
2013 E Carson Street l Pittsburgh, PA 15203 412.904.3223 l www.juditdayspa.com
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EUROPEAN INFUSED SPAS
17 Brilliant Avenue l Pittsburgh, PA 15215 412.782.3888 l www.esspa.net
For healing and pampering goodness imported and inspired from elegant and nurturing European roots we sought out four of the most reputable spas. For these spas it’s more than just pampering, it’s about rejuvenation. Whether you’re looking for occasional luxurious fun or private serenity an organic Hungarian facial, massage, and longer lasting manicure are waiting for you. So take the time that you MANIACs, women and men, deserve and check out one of Pittsburgh’s finest European inspired day spas.
Eva Szabo
La Pomponnee
Eva Szabo has built an immense a reputation in Pittsburgh over the past 30 years. This European skin care salon uses age-old techniques that owner Eva Szabo practiced in her homeland of Hungary and all over Europe, which she accentuates when training her staff. These techniques epitomize a greater respect and understanding of skin care, leaving you feeling fresh and clean without all the make-up. According to the Shadyside manager, Becki McCaffrey, the Eva Szabo spa provides the best of both worlds. They can accommodate large parties for a fun occasion and the individual looking to unwind, as they cater to a range of clientele. Eva Szabo’s spa is known for their organic peptide-infused facials leaving nothing but smooth skin. Their pedicures are also a cut above the rest, as they pamper those high-heel trapped feet while providing a spectacular view of Shadyside. Try their “Day of Beauty” package, or give it as a gift certificate to a friend, you are sure to receive their top of the line services for a deal. Also check out Eva Szabo’s other locations in Fox Chapel and the South Hills. Get to the nearest Eva Szabo for a spa day with the girls or for an escape for a little personal beauty time.
Mount Lebanon’s La Pomponnee is one of the few full salon and spas out there, offering expertise on all ends. La Pomponnee is French for “one who has been dolled up”, and here they do just that by making fabulous an everyday occasion. Whether you’re looking for a haircut, make up, massage, or skin care; it can all be found here. La Pomponnee is also an Aveda lifestyle store, meaning that the botanical Aveda products used in therapies and monthly promotions at the salon can be purchased and brought home for your daily regimens. Owner, Kristen Peckich opened La Pomponnee in 1992 with the inspiration from her late friend Tomasina, who was internationally renowned for her bridal gowns. Peckich began with a salon close to her friend’s bridal shop, specializing in pampering brides for their big day, but La Pomponnee’s vision was pampering for everyone every day. She opened a McMurray branch and a men’s only center called Mec Barber Spa which is attached to the main Mt Lebanon salon. Perhaps what La Pomponnee is best known for is their start to finish makeover. Since all of the services are offered under one feminine-Zen roof, customers can transform and refresh their style and body.
5932 Penn Circle South #201 l Pittsburgh, PA 15206 412.661.0740 l www.evaszabo.com
659 Washington Road l Pittsburgh, PA 15228 412.563.3990 l www.lapomponnee.com
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fitness
THE FANTASTICAL NEW LIFE OF
FORGOTTEN FURNITURE NO GOOD RIDING HOOD BY jammi e mountz PHO TOGRAP HY BY tamar a b a c h e ld e r Amid the quaint coffee and flower shops along Beaver Street in Sewickley, No Good Riding Hood is a distinctive spectacle, a break from the humdrum, and so is owner April Meredith. “People in this town think I’m nuts,” April laughs, describing how she totes a dolly around town stacked with what most people would consider trash. She hauls these rescued items back to her store, where she begins the process of shining, painting, and gluing them into something beautiful that she then sells. Her business had started with selling vendor stock, but April quickly realized her buyers were much more interested in the pieces she would create from garbage she found. “People like the flea market stuff,” she said. Because she creates everything herself, April’s pieces certainly have the local and personal feel of a bazaar. Her work is also reminiscent of the up-and-coming style of steampunk, an antique Victorian theme with a modern, technical twist. April’s creations skate the border between decorative and functional, like a rod iron headboard that could go on your bed or decorate a wall, or an old spigot that doubles as a wine opener. Lamps, vases, clocks, and other decorative baubles speckle the store. All of this is arranged on the larger pieces like on a buffet, a breakfront, a dressing table, or an accent table, all personally painted by April. In fact, most of her business comes from people stopping by with old, chipped furniture, asking her to paint it! April doesn’t just sell unique, independent creativity, she embodies it. She openly admits to not being a business woman. The store is an extension of herself above anything else. Divorced with two young daughters, she is a proud role model of the can-do mentality during times when everyone else is saying you can’t. “Everyone thought I was absolutely crazy for opening a business during basically the depression,” April said, however, it looks like she’s going to have the last laugh. She has moved from window displays to home decoration to planning parties and events. Black Lamb Consignments, a furniture store in Carnegie, wants to start selling her pieces. Recently, April has been invited to contribute a piece to a new Phipps Conservatory exhibit entitled “Trash to Treasure.” Her submission is a wreath five feet in diameter made of forks. Currently, she is working on turning an old chair into a dragon. April Meredith’s imagination and ingenious transformations are proving to us that all that putting your passions first can pay off!
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ZUMBA
559 Beaver Street l Sewickley, PA 15143 www.nogoodridinghood.com
Come join the latest revolution in the fitness world! With a party mantra it’s easy to see why people are leaving their treadmills for this new aerobic workout craze. It all started in Columbia in the mid-nineties, when Alberto “Beto” Perez dashed out of his house to teach an aerobics fitness class and realized he had forgotten his usual tunes. Using some tapes of salsa and merengue he had in his backpack, he improvised. Making up the steps on the spot, he directed the class in a fun, energetic, dancing-style work out. He used his prowess and expertise in Latin choreography that had already been tapped by Columbian pop-star Shakira. The feedback from the class was electric and Zumba Fitness was born soon after hitting Miami. This “happy accident” is now enjoyed in over 110 countries. As a fitness Maniac, I was excited to try out this Latin-inspired aerobics class for our foreign infused issue. I was not disappointed since Zumba is not your everyday, competitive regime. At X Shadyside, instructors and students danced together, laughing and enjoying the music while getting a great workout along the way. By the end of the first half hour I was dripping with sweat and actually smiling about it. This is unheard of on the treadmill. Students come for the workout, but stay for the atmosphere. “I just wanted to learn some basic dance moves to impress my friends,” said Phil Phan, at a recent Zumbathon event held at X Shadyside. And surprisingly, some of the
moves were club-worthy. This isn’t the usual gawky armed, high steps aerobic moves. If you come to Zumba, expect to be shaking and shimming in a way you never thought you would in the AM while sober. As instructor Laurie Gorrio said, “It’s a party class!” But don’t let the fun deceive you – Zumba is no joke. X Shadyside member Wendy Lane lost 113 pounds combining her Zumba workout with a healthy diet. However, what made Zumba unique was the “judgment free zone” that the class endorsed. I had no idea what I was doing, and I could see myself in the mirror looking like a fool, but I didn’t feel self-conscious for even a second. We were a hodge-podge of every gender, size, and age, all there in the spirit of fun and fitness. After sweating up a storm with thirty or so strangers who are now my friends, Zumba has me saying, “ditch the workout and join the party!”
X SHADYSIDE
5608 Walnut St l Pittsburgh, PA 15232 412.363.9999 l xshadyside.com
The Brazilian Party Workout BY s arah l ol l e y
“ At X Shadyside, instructors and students danced together, laughing and enjoying the music while getting a great workout along the way. By the end of the first half hour I was dripping with sweat and actually smiling about it. This is unheard of on the treadmill.” 73
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