LusoInfo nº3 by Sara Tamulonis

February 2012 nยบ3

February 2012 nº3

IN THIS ISSUE nº3

EDITOR’S DIARY

BEIRA LITORAL

CASA SANTA MARIA

BEIRA ALTA

LUSOINFO PORTUGUESE BREAKFAST

BEIRA BAIXA

WHAT’S ON WHEN

PORTUGUESE READING CLUB

NATIONAL NEWS

BEIRAS WINE REGION

INTERNATIONAL COMMUNITY

REGIONAL RECIPES: BEIRAS

LISBON COAT OF ARMS

LUSOINFO ADVERTISING

Inês

de Castro and Snu Abecassis were foreign born, beautiful women who found true love in Portugal. They lived 600 years apart but the circumstances, twists and turns of their lives and ultimate fate were determined by a turning point.

All

The Beiras

region is one of remarkable contrasts, the ancient and modern, sea and mountain, forests and plains that appeal to all tastes, the nature lovers, the history enthusiasts, and the culturally curious.

Editor: Sara Tamulonis Contributors: Delfina Tamulonis, Pat Westheimer, Jorge Serpa Printed by Grafitala, Lda Distribution: Lisbon, Cascais, Sintra Cover Photo: Monsanto and Costa Nova do Prado

LusoInfo

February 2012 nº3

Welcome to LusoInfo! This month has been full of exciting new challenges and opportunities since the official launch of LusoInfo in January. Doors have been opening and interest in this new adventure has been overwhelming. Thank you to everyone present at the launch. It was a beautiful morning, in good company and your feedback and support was dearly appreciated. I’d like to offer a special mention to Dra. Ana Isabel Machado, from Casa Santa Maria, for providing LusoInfo with such a beautiful venue. I would also like to thank the businesses that advertised in the first three issues and for supporting the magazine from the very beginning. I share this instant success with you. February has paved the way for new beginnings and with the help of Portugal Friends; LusoInfo is now reaching the international community in central Portugal. On this note, I´m pleased to announce that LusoInfo and Portugal Friends will be working together to provide the international community the opportunity to connect with people from another region and widen the experience of living in Portugal. Welcome new readers from central Portugal! I’m grateful for the positive response and I look forward to hearing news from our new friends “no centro”. (More information about this exciting partnership can be found on page 18.)

LUSOINFO WANTS YOU!

On February 8th, LusoInfo was invited to the ACL (American Club of Lisbon) lunch where guest speaker Dr. António Almeida Lima, Executive Director of AICEP, delivered an interesting speech on the subject of foreign policy. The lunch was a fantastic multicultural experience and a truly enjoyable afternoon. It is not every day that you share a table with the Iraqi Ambassador and Fernando Pereira, a respected international Portuguese entertainer!

Beginning with the next issue March 2012 a new page will be included that is entirely dedicated to our readers. We want to hear from you, either in the form of a letter to the editor, an article, a picture or story. Any suggestions or feedback is also greatly appreciated. Let us know what YOU think! E-mail mail@lusoinfo.org before Friday March 9th, 2012.

LusoInfo

February 2012 nº3

Casa de Santa Maria Cascais

is blessed with examples of stunning landscapes, beautiful ocean views, modern and classic architecture, culture and history. Walking through the center of this picturesque vila. there isn’t a street corner or a dead end that does not have a unique feature or an untold story. Many gems of this fisherman’s land are hidden and missed by everyday onlookers who will pass by levels of scaffolding and mesh unaware that within lies a magnificent and historically significant structure. Casa Santa Maria located in one the most privileged areas of Cascais is currently undergoing maintenance work to fix a leaky roof but all efforts are worthwhile to preserve this wonderful landmark. Raul Lino, notable architect, who was also responsible for Casa de Penedos in Sintra, and the Tivoli Theater in Lisbon, built this stoic waterfront mansion 110 years ago. This house was one of Lino’s first works and is a typical example of Mediterranean architecture, which makes good use of the sun, and the Arab influence is easily apparent through the horseshoe arches and tiles. The house was built in three phases: in 1902, 1914 and in1918. It was commissioned by Jorge Torlades O’Neill, an eccentric nobleman from Lisbon who was highly respected and a close friend of Dom Fernando II, husband of Dona Maria II, queen of Portugal. The O’Neill family arrived in Portugal circa 1720, when Shane O’Neill found political asylum in Lisbon. Jorge Torlades O’Neill, his great grandson, managed a family business in the tobacco industry. He was a man of many talents and trades, multilingual and the consul for Denmark and Greece in Portugal. Towards the end of the 19th century O’Neill bought land next to Santa Marta where he began construction of the Torre de São Sebastião, known today as the Conde de Castro Guimarães Museum. Shortly

thereafter, he had Casa de Santa Maria built for his daughter Maria Thereza O’Neill. Fifteen years later, Casa Santa Maria returned to the Lino family when José Lino Junior, Raul’s older brother and an avid art collector, acquired it. He refurbished the house with 17th century tiles rescued from an old chapel in Quinta da Ramada in Frielas. The magnificent display of tiles depict many religious scenes including the Virgin Mary with young Jesus and St. John, Jesus among the Doctors, The Flight in to Egypt and the Purification of Our Lady. The mosaic like tiles line the interior of the entire house. The wooden oil painted ceiling was also a feature commissioned by Lino. The house was bought by the Espírito de Santo family in 1925 and received many important visitors including the royal family of Luxembourg, Counts of Barcelona, Italian King Umberto II, and the Dukes of Windsor among others. In 2004 the Cascais City Council purchased the house from the Espírito de Santo family and has plans to use it as a museum in memory of Raul Lino as a tribute to other remarkable architects and artists who left their mark on buildings and homes in Cascais. Casa Santa Maria is well worth a visit. It still maintains original features that evoke a type of aristocratic nostalgia. It is easy to imagine the lifestyle that previous owner’s enjoyed. Casa de Santa Maria showcases the artistry of Portuguese tiles that are used as a decorative art form in the home. Casa de Santa Maria Rua do Farol de Santa Marta 2750-341 Cascais Telephone: 214 815 382 E-mail: csm@cm-cascais.pt Open to the public : Tuesday - Sunday from 10:00 - 17:00

LusoInfo

LusoInfo - The Inside G

Portuguese

January 20, 2012 LusoInfo hosted a traditional Portuguese breakfast at Casa Santa Maria in Cascais in celebration of the official launch of the new English language magazine LusoInfo - The Inside Guide to LIfe in Portugal. With nearly 50 guests in attendance, the Portuguese style breakfast was complete with coffee, fresh bread, cakes, and savories which were enjoyed along with the picturesque views from the waterfront terrace that overlooks Santa Marta beach, the lighthouse and the Cascais Marina. Following the abundant breakfast, guests were invited upstairs to the impressive Caravel Room for a presentation of LusoInfo where Sara Tamulonis provided insight into the purpose and goals of the new magazine directed at the internaitonal and expat community. LusoInfo provides useful information to the international and expat community including permanent and temporary residents in Portugal. The printed and online magazine offers an inside look to life in Portugal covering a range of topics including cultural and historical articles, gastronomy and travel, health and lifestyle. LusoInfo also reports on current events in the community and provides international clubs, organizations and associations a platform to promote events, activities and recent news. The first two issues, November 2011 and double issue December 2011/ January 2012 were distributed in public areas in Lisbon, Cascais and Sintra. In each monthly issue of LusoInfo there is a focus on a geographical region of Portugal. In the first two issue Estremadura and Ribatejo were highlighted. The geographical regions are a regular theme in LusoInfo providing

LusoInfo

Guide to Life in Portugal

e Breakfast

readers with a greater cultural and historical understanding about Portugal and what it has to offer international residents. The contents of the magazineprovide a unique look at Portugal and the Portuguese as it reflects both the international and Portuguese perspective. In keeping with this theme, Delfina Tamulonis, gave a talk on “The Portuguese - Who Are And Where Are We Now” based on a booklet by the same title written and published by Delfina. Her sheer passion for Portugal came through in her presentation which outlined Portuguese history and the impact that a series of events had on Portugal which are apparent in the attitude of Portuguese society today. Delfina also described the current state of the nation from the Portuguese point of view and concluded that the Portuguese mentality of state dependency needs a drastic adjustment if Portugal is to overcome it’s greatest challenge: the European Union. Portugal a country with 800 years of history has always managed to pull through desperate times even in the darkest of hours and this day and age is no exeception. Tough times call for drastic measures. Or as the Portuguese say, para grandes males, grandes remédios. Following the insightful discussion, subscribers received the latest issue of LusoInfo together with a complimentary booklet “The Portuguese - Who We Are and Where Are We Now?. The next eleven issues of LusoInfo in 2012 will continue to explore Portugal and the Portuguese and provide informative, insightful articles on a range of subjects as well as information about community events, organizations and businesses. LusoInfo is, therefore, an important asset and a “must-have” magazine for the international community in Portugal.

LusoInfo

February 2012 nº3

MUSIC THEATER DANCE ART EXHIBITI

events guide MUSIC & DANCE

FADO IN CHIADO Every Mon.-Saturday 21:00 Two voices, one male, one female accompanied by viola and guitar. Cine Theatro Gymnásio Rua da Misericórdia, 12. 961 717 778. PORTUGUESE CHAMBER ORCHESTRA (Various dates) 9:00 PM The Portuguese Chamber Orchestra performs at Lisbon's Belém Cultural Centre as part of the Mozart's Spirit Cycle. 213 612 400 GREAT ORCHESTRAS OF THE WORLD Nov. 2011 - Apr. 2012 Featuring various internationally renowned conductors and soloists, the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation presents its Great Orchestras of the World series in Lisbon's Coliseu dos Recreios. OS ELÉCTRICOS February 10, 2012 at 10.00 p.m. In their first CD, produced by Miguel Castro under the Sony label, Os Eléctricos adopt the Lisbon dancing and poetic charm of the 1940’s, followed by the adventure of Rock’n’Rolling 50‘s. The combine styles and revive old songs by Francisco José, Beatriz Costa, Vicente da Câmara, Mirita Casimiro, Elvis Presley, Natércia Barreto. Tickets: € 10 CONCERTS FOR BABIES The Twins’ Ride February 19th 10.00 a.m. and 11.30 a.m.

Rui Filipe, father of twins, has also fathered a major musical work. Ride with him in the Twins’ Carousel, among other works he has written with his children in mind. Recommended for children from 3 months to 3 years of age. Olga Cadaval Cultural Center 21 910 71 10 www.ccolgacadaval.pt

CULTURE

WITCH HUNT February 18, 2012 21:00 Sintra boasts legendary mysticism which is the perfect setting for a a witch hunt. The hunt starts at the S. Pedro Fair Square. Participants are guaranteed an evening full of emotions that they will never forget! Start: Sintra Market Fair Square. Please note: All participants should wear fancy dress. Fee: € 20 LOULÉ CARNIVAL Feb 19 -21 2012 Elaborately decorated floats and people in fancy dress parade along the Avenida José da Costa Mealha. The first modern carnival formally took place in the town in 1906. From then on a carnival committee gave the event an annual theme, and a programme of organized parties and events. FANTASPORTO Feb 20 - Mar 4 , 2012 Fantasporto is a competitive film festival screening around 200 features annually in venues across OPorto. Founded by the editors of the magazine Cinema Novo, the Fantasporto festival has introduced

Portuguese audiences to a number of innovative film-makers over the years. The Fantasporto festival is usually well covered by the local media, and attracts audiences of more than 10,000 every year. info@fantasporto.online.pt

THEATER

DR.FEELGOOD The Lisbon Players February 9 - 25, 2012 A hospital room in St. Louis, 1969. Tennessee Williams, author of A Street Car Named Desire, is struggling to overcome his addiction to drugs and alcohol. The border between hallucination and reality becomes blurred as a number of visitors appear in his room. Some are real ghosts from the past, others are historical figures he’s never met, and still others are fictional characters out of his own plays. Thursday, Friday Saturday at 21:30 Sunday Matinée Feb 19th at 16:00 Price: 10€, 8€ for Members, Students under 25, Seniors and parties of at least ten people. Special Discount Day on Thursday 16th February: All tickets at 5€. www.lisbonplayers.com.pt

ART

STREET ART - ALMADA Present - February 8, 2012 A presentation of photography that witnesses the intensity and diversity of artistic activity on the streets. Fnac Almada 214 699 000 almada@fnac.pt.

MUSIC THEATER DANCE ART EXHIBITI

LusoInfo

February 2012 nº3

IONS TOURSCULTURE SPORT FASHION

what´s on when

RETROSPECTIVE PAINTING by Isabel Zamith Present - February 15, 2012 Celebrating 30 years as a painter, Isabel Zamith presents this exhibition whose nature themes are poetic and full of colour and joy. “SINTRA” by Sofia Prestes February 10th - March 9th 2012 Galeria Municipal de Sintra OUTDOOR SCULPTURE EXHIBITION Present - June 10, 2012 Sintra the capital of romanticism is hosting the largest exhibition of outdoor sculpture entitled Sintra Public Art VIII, organized by Sintra Municipality and the International Sculpture Center sixteen Sculptors are participating both Portuguese and International artists. ROYAL PAINTING The Sea, Fine Art by King D. Carlos I. The exhibition looks into the artistic side of the monarch with a joint exhibit of sea themed watercolors at King D. Carlos I Maritime Museum. 214 865 836. ART AND ANTIQUES FAIR Jan - Feb 2012 (annual) Around 80 art collectors and antique dealers gather to sell their valuable goods. The fair attracts approximately 10,000 people who are looking to buy unique pieces, from religious artefacts to ornate silver plates. Lisbon Congress Center.

SPORT

LISBON HALF MARATHON March 25, 2012 10:15 am Get yourself fit for the Lisbon Half Marathon, the largest in the world. The race starts in Almada on the south side of the 25 de Abril bridge. The route crosses the bridge, follows the river

Tagus eastwards and returns to Belém to Mosteiro dos Jerónimos for the finishing line. The mini marathon crosses the bridge and heads straight to Belém. Maratona Clube de Portugal turismo@mail.cm-lisboa.pt www.lisbon-half-marathon.com 21 441 3182

Your Child Deserves the Best • Classes incorporate music and movement, instruments, books, and sign language • Carefully-created curriculum based on Kindermusik’s 25 years experience in music and child development • Nurturing, one-on-one time each week for you and your child in class and at home

of Kindermusik parents would recommend the program to other parents. Source: November 2005 Online Study by Harris Interactive

We’re in the neighborhood. Call today.

96 234 02 18 Kindermusikbyluisa@gmail.com

IONS TOURSCULTURE SPORT FASHION

LusoInfo

February 2012 nº3

MUSIC THEATER DANCE ART EXHIBITI

events guide PORTUGAL’S RALLY Mar 27 - Apr 1 2012 (annual) Estádio Algarve (Algarve Stadium) The world’s top drivers race across approximately 1000km of the Algarve, combining fast open stretches with technical, challenging tracks. Portugal’s Rally ends with a closing party at Estádio Algarve. http://www.rallydeportugal.pt/ CASCAIS 20 KM MARATHON February 19th 2012 Join thousands of athletes for a 20 km marathon in Cascais. Xistarca www.xistarca.pt e-mail: inscricoes@xistarca.pt 213 616 160 PORTUGAL’S TAEKWONDO CHAMPIONSHIPS February 18, 2012 Sintra Taekwondo Club Sintra Hockey Club Pavillion (Monte Santos) 3RD CASAL DE CAMBRA GRAND PRIX February 19, 2012 First event of the 2011/2012 “Sintra Running” Trophy. Enrollment is free, and open to all. This event is organized by the Casal de Cambra Junta de Freguesia, with the support of the Sintra Town Council. www.sintraacorrer.com SINTRAVENTURA: “MYSTERY IN MONSERRATE” WALK 26th February, at 9.00 a.m. Meeting at the entrance to the Monserrate gardens.

ROMANTIC SINTRA WALK February 11th, at 10.00 a.m. Walk through the forest and through the Vila de Sintra, including the Moors’ Castle, Pena Palace, Seteais Palace, Regaleira Quinta, and the National Palace. Meeting place: S. Pedro de Sintra Fair Square. Approximately 6 km Fee:€8 ABSEILING ON NATURAL ROCK February 19, 2012 10.00 a.m. This activity is excellent for the development of self-assurance and selfesteem and overcoming fears. Meeting place: Pena Park. Fee: € 10 comercial@muitaventura.com

EXHIBITIONS

“SINTRA ”THE NAVIGATORS’ LIGHTHOUSE – photography exhibition. Tourist Office Cabo de Roca Opening hours: Daily, 9:00 – 18:30. “SINTRA, THE ENCHANTED MOON MOUNTAIN” Present - April 27, 2012 Documental exhibition that travels through Sintra’s history through the municipal patrimonial archives. Using “Sintra, the enchanted Moon Mountain”, José Ruy’s cartoon book tells Sintra’s history, as a starting point. Documentation from the historical archive will be on display, characterizing and relevant events and people. Palácio Valenças 219 236 909 darq@cm-sintra.pt

LIVING SCIENCE CENTER Facts about DNA and other interesting scientific subjects at the Centro de Ciência Viva, Antiga Garagem dos Carros Eléctricos 219 247 730. INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL SHOW Feb 29 - Mar 4 2012 The International Travel Show (Mundo Abreu) at Lisbon’s International Exhibition Centre, FIL, attracts over 125,000 visitors all keen to seek out information on their next holiday destination. More than 85 countries are represented, promising to cater to everyone’s vacation preferences. Feira Internacional de Lisboa Nations Park Lisbon 21 892 1500 http://www.fil.pt/ LISBON BOAT AND ADVENTURE SHOW February 8 - 12, 2012 (annual) Feira Internacional de Lisboa Lisbon’s International Exhibition Center, FIL, hosts the Lisbon Boat and Adventure Sports Show, Nauticampo, a double event showcasing the latest products. One section is dedicated to yachts, the other focuses on everything from motor sports to martial arts. The Sports Show area covers a wide range of activities, including motocross and leisure biking, diving and gliding, weightlifting, keep-fit, racket sports, climbing, canoeing, skateboarding and much more. There’s also a program of seminars, displays and entertainment. 218 921 500 www.nauticampo.fil.pt

MUSIC THEATER DANCE ART EXHIBITI

LusoInfo

February 2012 nº3

IONS TOURSCULTURE SPORT FASHION

what´s on when

ART OF WAR - WWII PROPOGANDA Present - February 8 2012 During World War II propaganda was vital in generating a spirit of patriotism. This exhibition gives a glimpse of this art form created by advertising agencies at that time. Museu Colecção Berardo, Praça do Império, 1449-003 Lisbon. Entrance is free. 213 612 878. museuberardo@ museuberardo.pt

FASHION

MODA LISBOA March 2012 Top national designers send their creations down the catwalk at Moda Lisboa. The event showcases Portuguese fashion and style to the national and foreign media, industry specialists and

the fashion-conscious public. Commerce Square (Praça do Comércio) www.assoc-modalisboa.pt

BEHIND THE SCENES OF ANIMATION The Marionette Museum presents two exhibitions relating to animation. Also exhibits of marionettes, drawings and sketches. Marionette Museum, Bernardas Convent, Rua da Esperança No. 146 ARCA DA NOÉ (NOAH’S ARK) Present - February 12, 2012 This exhibition represents works by thirty-three artists and looks at the magic and mysteries of the animal world. CAMB - Centro de Arte Manuel de Brito (Alges), Palacio Anjos, Alameda Hermano Patrone, Oeiras. 214 111 400. APPEARANCES The Photography of Gerard CastelloLopes 1956-2006 Sept.23 - Apr.1 2012 BES Art & Finance 218 839 000 SEA TURTLES: THE JOURNEY Apr.7 - Apr.1, 2013 Lisbon Oceanarium 218 917 002

IONS TOURSCULTURE SPORT FASHION 11

LusoInfo

February 2012 nº3

Confessions of an Ocean Swimmer, Part Two I admit, with some shame, that December 31 was the last day I entered the lovely ocean. Until today. The bright sunny skies lure me to the paredão to walk beside the sea, but tales of very cold water temperatures put me off during most of January. On that final day of 2011 I met a very interesting fellow swimmer, Piers , from Ireland. I have no idea of his age but his body shape suggested a man in very good physical condition. As he put on his rubberized top and bottoms (as opposed to my 2-piece lycra bathing suit), he said, “ I’m training for a triathlon.” He also revealed that his black bathing cap, of special silicone, was the most important part of his gear: “ Keep the head warm and the body stays warm too, “ he said. I’m lucky to have a thick set of curls which I thought would keep me warm, but Piers told me otherwise. So last Friday I went to Decathalon and bought a “proper” cap for swimming, but not the rubberized suit. I wanted to feel the water on my skin, unprotected by some artificial outer gear. (I didn’t tell the triathlete that.) As I entered the ocean in this third week of January, I experienced the familiar rush of winter water: bone-chilling temperatures balanced with exhilarating excitement. I walked for five minutes and let my legs adjust to the icy water. Then, I plunged in and swam for about five minutes. When I exited, I headed for my towel, changed into warm clothes and basked in the January sun. In two week’s time I’ll head for India. My next column will contain tales on my swims in the Indian Ocean, considerably warmer than the Atlantic and possibly host to dolphins. In March, no more than a week after I return, you will find me again regularly in the waters off the Praia de Conceiçao beneath the Hotel Albatross, Want to join me? patwestheimer@gmail.com

February 2012 nº3

National News www.portugaldailyview.com

YOUTH UNEMPLOYMENT ON THE RISE Relvas, the deputy minister and minister for parliamentary affairs, recently created a governmental Interministerial Committee for Youth Employment and Training. An EU “action team” will seek out solutions for the growing epidemic, which according to official figures affects more than one in three Portuguese between the ages of 15 and 24. The National Statistics Institute (INE) reported that 2011 ended with a record unemployment rate of 14%, In the EU, only Greece and Spain have a higher youth unemployment rate. UTILITIES PRICE REGULATION ENDS The Portuguese government announced the end of electricity and natural gas price regulation that will bring an end to fixed tariffs for domestic consumers of electricity and any natural gas. The Portuguese government’s decision complies with one of the measures set down in the memorandum of understanding agreed for its

€78bn EU/IMF bailout. PRIVATE PAY RISE CUT Private companies in Portugal are not increasing pay in 2012. A study shows a decrease in expenses in mobile phone limits and vehicle subsidies. The real average pay rises in 2011 were between 1.2% and 1.9%. “35% of companies froze salaries in 2010” the report said following 28% having done so the previous year. The energy and banking sectors in Portugal, continue to be the most competitive, while civil construction and public works are the least. RECYCLING HABITS IN DECLINE Portuguese households are not keeping up with recycling habits, according to a study published by sector specialist Sociedade Ponto Verde. Practically half (48%) of the 1,075 survey respondents said that the inflicting economic situation impacted on their diets of which 92% had shifted their household consumption habits. Reports show that 69% of households separate their rubbish but only 47% on

a regular basis however, 22%admit to occasionally separating recyclables. COLUMBIAN PEACHES IN COCAINE BUST Spanish and Portuguese police have dismantled an international cocaine network planning to smuggle the drug into Europe through Portugal through shipments of Colombian peaches. Sources, said authorities had arrested at least 20 Spanish, Portuguese and Colombian nationals in police raids in nine Spanish cities and in Portugal. The gang had planned to smuggle 250 kilos of high quality cocaine, disguised in Colombian peach crates. EUROPEAN MUSEUM AWARD NOMINEES The European Museum Forum’s Maria Vlachou announced the selection of three Portuguese museums as the year’s best. The two candidates are the Capelinhos Centre of Volcanic Interpretation (Faial, the Azores) and the Convent of São Paulo Hotel-Museum (Redondo) and the Côa

Museum (Vila Nova de Foz Côa). The European Museum of the Year award is the highest profile award for the sector and awarded to the museum that attracted the largest number of visitors. Among the 46 competitors are the Croatian Kraneamus: Krapina Neanderthal Museum, the NUKU Museum of Puppetry, in Tallinn, Estonia, the Children’s Book Museum, in the Hague, the Netherlands, the Chekhov Memorial Museum-Reserve, Melikhovo, Russia with London’s Kensington Palace, one of ten British museums picking up nominations. The winner will be announced on the 19th of May. WINE COMPETITION IN CAPITAL OF CULTURE Guimarães, one of Europe’s two Capitals of Culture this year, will host the prestigious wine competition Concours Mondial de Bruxelles on May 4-6. Around 7,400 wines from 49 countries are in the running for prizes that will be awarded by 300 judges of 40 nationalities.

www.germancorner-pinastein.net

LusoInfo

February 2012 nº3

international

community American Club of Lisbon Primarily a business-oriented club, whose main objective is to enhance fellowship and understanding between the United States and Portugal. 213 529 308 americanclub@mail.telepac.pt www.americancluboflisbon.com Americans in Portugal Americans in Portugal (AmP), founded in 1998, aims to enhance the quality of life of expatriate Americans, their spouses, significant others living in the Lisbon area and to promote connections and serve the American, Portuguese and international communities. www.americansinportugal.org americansinportugal@gmail.com 214 862 266 / 919 863 927 British Council, Portugal The British Community Council, Lisbon, brings together English speaking people from many backgrounds to enjoy a wide variety of social, sporting and cultural events and helps support many charitable organizations. It offers opportunities to make new friends, discover new activities, explore Portugal and keep in touch with the English speaking community. www.britishcouncil.org/portugal.htm 213 214 500

British Retirement Home Association Established in 1980 to create and maintain residential accommodation for elderly people of British and other nationalities. The Quinta da Fonte home has English speaking staff and nurses. brhportugal@gmail.com 214 688 694

International Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender Association Portugal An organization working to improve living conditions, integration and interaction of the gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender population within society. Helpline and counselling available. www.ilga-portugal.pt centro@ilga-portugal.pt 218 873 918 / 969 367 005

English Freemasons A society of men concerned with moral and spiritual values, seeking to reinforce thoughtfulness for others, kindness in the community, honesty in business, courtesy in society and fairness in all things. www.freemasonryinportugal.com 282 471 450

International Women in Portugal IWP organizes a variety of events for women of all nationalities to meet up and share interests. Regular coffee mornings and luncheons as well as excursions, fundraising and social events. www.iwponline.org office@iwponline.org 915 552 847

The English Speaking Union of Portugal The English Speaking Union of Portugal (ESU) brings together and empowers people of different languages and cultures. By building skills and confidence in communication, ESU’s vision is to provide people in the UK and internationally with communication skills, confidence and networking opportunities. www.esu.org/portugal 213 905 428

The Irish Association The Association’s objective ‘to bring Irish cultural events to Portugal’ has been well and truly met. Events have featured all aspects of Irish culture from music and dance to literature and film, from thoughtprovoking lectures to fun and frivolity at our regular St. Patrick’s Day celebrations. irishassociation@gmail.com

Charity Bridge Association http://bcclisbon.org/members/show/

International Ladies of Caldas da Rainha International Ladies of Caldas Da Rainha, a social, non-profit club for women of all nationalities. Established in 1994, the club's focus is on enriching women's lives, whilst living in Portugal. Come along and join us at our Monday Coffee Club on the first and third Monday, every month 3.00 4.30pm. Meet new friends and catch International Hairdressers, Beautician and Manicurist up with your old ones! nt.ladiescaldas@ hotmail.co.uk

The British Historical Society The British Historical Society of Portugal has about 250 members and has as its object to recover, preserve and collate much of the history of the British in Portugal, and to promote interest in the History of Anglo-Portuguese relations. www.bhsportugal.org 214 583 903

www.inter nationalcaldas.eu

Open Monday - Saturday 9 am - 7 pm

LusoInfo

Lisbonne Accueil Objectifs de l'association Lisbonne Accueil: Accueil des nouveaux arrivants. Ouvrir l'association au monde francophone (toutes nationalités). Renforcer les liens entre la communauté française et portugaise. Créer des liens avec le monde de l'entreprise. Proposition d’activités dans la journée, le soir et le week-end. 213 111 459 www.lisbonneaccueil.org The Lisbon Casuals Sports Club The Lisbon Casuals is a friendly, relaxed sports & social club ideal for all the family. Members include a multicultural membership and offer a wide range of international sports such as Football, American Football, Hockey, Touch-Rugby & Cricket, Badminton. www.lisboncasuals.com 214 576 684 Lisbon Hash House Harriers (LH3) Meet at 2.30pm on alternate Saturdays, behind the Estoril Casino. A family Hash both adults and accompanied children are welcome. If you enjoy walking, jogging or running then join the Hash. 919 666 202 / 214 671 396

February 2012 nº3

organizations associations charities The Lisbon Players Amateur English-language theater group open to people of all nationalities with an interest in drama and theatre skills. Regular productions of plays and musicals. New members welcome for acting and production roles. www.lisbonplayers.com.pt 213 961 946 Portugal Friends Portugal Friends has developed from a need for people, mostly foreigners or Portuguese people who speak English or have lived in other countries, to share their common ideas and interests and enjoy good company. Most people who are not natively Portuguese have come here to benefit from a better quality of life, and weather and enjoy the unique Portuguese hospitality, culture and beautiful country.

www.portugalfriends.com

Portugal Iberlant NATO Golf Society (PINGS) PINGS is based at Quinta da Beloura with a membership of approximately 90 people both from within NATO and the civilian community in the Lisbon area. Matches are played twice monthly, a Medal at Beloura and one Away Day at another course. Please contact info@pings.com.pt should you have any questions. Riding for the Disabled The Associação Hípica Terapeutica de Cascais is a non profit association providing therapeutic riding and sport adapted riding for people with a variety of dysfunctions and disabilities. Sessions take place at Rua da Areia, Guincho, 2750053 Cascais. 962 337 668

The Royal British Club The Club is a private members’ club, with an international membership, serving the social needs of its members within Portugal and abroad. Events are held at hotels and restaurants, including some very successful Charity Summer Balls and Gala Dinners. www.royalbritishclub.pt 214 681 712 The Royal British Legion, Portugal Branch The Royal British Legion is the UK’s leading Armed Forces charity and one of its largest membership organisations. Members get together through the network of branches and clubs all over the country and overseas to participate in social, fundraising and welfare activities.

www.britishlegion.org.uk/branches/portugal

February 2012 nº3

international

community organizations, associations, charities The Royal Society of St. George The Royal Society of St. George Lisbon Branch was founded in 1962 to further English interests by spreading knowledge of English History, traditions and ideals. The Society celebrates English traditional holidays such as St. George’s Day and Trafalgar Day. 214 871 303 www.royalsocietyofstgeorge.com Scottish Country Dancing Scottish country dancing club for all levels of ability performing a variety of dances at each session. Meetings take place on Thursdays at 8:00 PM. 214 840 628 / 214 180 148 www.lisboncasuals.com Silver Coast Friends Silvercoast Friends was set up over two years ago by a number of young (or young-at-heart) dynamic and multitalented women who decided that they were definitely NOT in Portugal to retire! The ages of the women who get together for a two-hour coffee break twice a month are between 23 and 70. We are very happy to welcome young and old-just bring along your generosity of spirit, enthusiasm and energy. silvercoastfriends@yahoo.co.uk www.searchonsilvercoast.co.uk/friends South Africans in Portugal Helping South African ex-pats reach out and connect. Creating contacts, meeting fellow South African ex-pats, obtaining advice from others who have walked in the same shoes or simply sharing experiences to help beat homesickness effectively. www.southafricansinportugal.com info@southafricansinportugal.com 910 838 115 St. Andrew’s Society The St. Andrew’s Society of Lisbon was founded in 1934, making it one of the longest-established societies in Portugal. It is a non profit making organization whose aims and objectives as stated in the Constitution are to promote, maintain and extend interest in Scotland and the Scottish Culture and heritage, to celebrate the anniversary of the Patron Saint of Scotland. www.standrewslisbon.org/ info@standrewslisbon.org

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Trash & Treasure The shop is open on Monday, Wednesday and Friday from 10:30 to 12:30 and from 15:00 to 17:00 hrs. Items are accepted on a “Commission Sale” (30% of the selling price goes to charitable causes) and donations are always welcomed. As all profit goes to charity, new voluntary helpers are always very welcome, to dedicate time to a slot in helping in the shop. 214 573 419

Riverside International Church Interdenominational church meetings in English every Sunday at 11:00. Creche, and children and youth ministries provided. Meetings take place next to the Riviera Hotel at Praçeta Infante D Henrique 80, Quinta do Junqueiro, 2775-584 Carcavelos. 214 836 590

The Women’s Royal Voluntary Service The WRVS in Lisbon is the only overseas branch of the organization and relies entirely on locally generated funding. Has a membership of over a 100, all working on a voluntary basis. Help includes visiting elderly, shopping, knitting, collecting and distributing clothes and fund raising events for local charities. Volunteers are always welcome. wrvsportugal@gmail.com

St George’s Church Service in English every Sunday at 11:30, Rua Sao Jorge, opposite the Jardim da Estrela. Enter through the British cemetery gate. 214 692 303

RELIGIOUS SERVICES Cascais International

St Andrew’s Church of Scotland Worship in English, every Sunday at 11:00, Sunday school and creche facilities available. Rua da Arriaga 13, 1200-608 Lisbon 218 043 410 www.standrews.com.pt

Catholic Parish Mass every Sunday and Holyday at 10:15. Confessions before or after Mass. Rua do Murtal 368, 2765 Sao Pedro do Estoril 214 673 771 St Paul’s Church Worship in English every Sunday at 9:30 am Av. Bombeiros Voluntários 58, Estoril 214 692 303

Christian Church English worship every Sunday at 10:30. This international evangelical fellowship also organizes midweek Bible studies, children’s church and has a nursery. Av de Sintra 1154, Cascais 214 861 856

The Door Christian International Church meetings every Sunday at 10:30 and 19:00. Pastor Frank Escobar. Meetings take place at Cidade Desportiva, Praceta Carlos Capitulo, Massama-

Irish Dominicans in Portugal Igreja da Sra. Dos Navegantes Catholic services in English. Mass each Saturday at 18:00, Sunday and Holy Day at 12:00. Confessions before or after Mass by appointment. Rua dos Navegantes, 2750 Cascais. 214 673 771 Igreja do Corpo Santo Catholic services in English, Mass each Sunday and Holy day at 11:00, confessions: before Mass or by appointment. Largo do Corpo Santo, Lisbon 214 673 771

GRACE International Community Church - Cascais An interdenominational, English speaking church that is welcoming and relevant; bible focused, fun and supportive. Meeting on Sundays at 10.30 at CAISL (American School) in Linhó, Cascais. www.lisbongrace.com or call Emma Ruas 938 511 140

International Baptist Church of Lisbon English worship services at 11:30, with Reverend Joseph Momoh, in the facilities of the Terceira Igreja Evangelica Baptista de Lisboa, Rua Filipe Folque 36, 1050 Lisbon. Ocean Christian Community International church serving the Linha de Cascais area. Regular bible studies and Sunday worship at the Hotel Saboia, Rua Belmonte 1, Estoril 219 282 019

Queluz.

214 673 386 / 919 086 683

NotĂcia Nacional

February 2012 nº3

www.lusoinfo.org. www.portugalfriends.com

LusoInfo is pleased to announce a new partnership between Portugal Friends and LusoInfo who have come together to work towards building community and broadening horizons. As a LusoInfo subscriber, you’ll benefit from a discount on membership with Portugal Friends which includes an Individual subscription for a yearly fee of €25.

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Family memberships for 2 adults and up to 3 children are also available for €35. Subscribe online at www.portugalfriends.com, use the code LUSOP and the intial joining fee is free! Existing Portugal Friends members have the opportunity to receive a 10% discount on subscriptions to LusoInfo. If you’re a business member you’ll receive one classified ad free of charge in a printed issue of LusoInfo and online at www.lusoinfo.org.

February 2012 nº3

The Coat of Arms of the City of Lisbon

By Jorge Serpa

My subject today is the coat of arms of Lisbon, the capital city of our host country. We are all familiar with the ubiquitous image of the little sailing vessel with two ravens on her. We are probably less familiar with the fascinating story that the image depicts. Let me just say as a teaser that it involves saints, villains, kings and... winemakers! It all started with St. Vincent, a.k.a. St. Vincent of Zaragoza, St. Vincent of Huesca, St. Vincent the Martyr, St. Vincent the Deacon, et cetera. St. Vincent was born in Osca (today Huesca, Spain), but soon moved to Caesar Augusta (now Zaragoza, also in Spain) where he served as deacon to the town’s bishop, Valerius. St. Vincent was somewhat unfortunate, as he lived during the days of Emperor Diocletian’s persecution of Christians. As a matter of fact, he ended up imprisoned and martyred by proconsul Dacian in Valencia in 304 AD. Ok, but... how do we go from here to the coat of arms? Next let me tell you a bit about a cliffy, barren and windswept promontory at the southwestern corner of Portugal, near Sagres. This dramatic headland, known today as Cape St. Vincent, has fascinated mankind throughout history. During the Neolithic, the area was the stage for many sacred acts, as demonstrated by the existence of numerous monoliths from that era. The Romans called it Promontorium Sacrum, the Holy Promontory. (Note however that a few historians, based on their interpretation of Strabo’s Geographica, suggest that the Promontorium Sacrum designation may have referred to the equally cliffy promontory of Sagres, a few minutes of latitude further south but not as far west as Cape St. Vincent.) Today, Cape St. Vincent is home to one of the world’s great lighthouses (equipped with one of the largest Fresnel lenses ever built) and to the highest concentration of marine life in Portugal (including some types of rare birds such as Bonelli’s eagles). The panoramic views from the cape are also absolutely super. Great! ...but what about the coat of arms? Onwards to the next piece of puzzle! You may have heard of a certain King Afonso Henriques. Well, he turns out to be the one who, against great odds, defeated his mother (yes, his mother!) and her allies from Galicia and Leon at the battle of St. Mamede in 1128. This battle was the starting point of the country known today as... Portugal: young Afonso Henriques—he was around 18 years old at St. Mamede—would proclaim himself as the first king of an independent Portugal in 1139. King Afonso Henriques spent his entire life fighting. He fought facing south, against the Moors, and facing east, against some of his relatives on the other side of the border who never quite accepted his victory at St. Mamede. One of King Afonso Henriques’s most prized conquests was beautiful Lisbon, taken from the Moors for the last time in the year of 1147. Most historians are untypically in agreement with most of the story up to this point. The next chapter requires a bit more faith. It turns out that in the 8th century, the remnants of St. Vincent’s body “appeared” in the region of Cape St. Vincent. Really? Well...! How? There are various versions. According to the most popular one, after Vincent’s death, Dacian, fretful of having the burial place of the deacon turned into a shrine, had his body tied up to a mill stone and tossed to the water. Miraculously, the body washed up ashore. Dacian then had the martyr’s body thrown to the swamps to be eaten by vultures. Equally miraculously, a flock of ravens protected the body and prevented that from happening. Eventually

the body was picked up by a pious widow and buried by the town’s walls. How do we know all this? It’s pretty much based on Liber Peristephanon, a book on martyrs written by Aurelius Prudentius Clemens, a Roman poet from the 4th century. Once the Roman empire accepted Christianity, a little martyrium was built over the remains of the body. (Some years later, the martyrium was replaced by the church of San Vicente de la Roqueta, one of the earliest churches in the Iberian Peninsula, predating even the arrival of the Moors.) Early in the 8th century, a few Christians of Valencia, concerned with the approaching “infidels,” dug up the remnants of the body and moved them to the Cape St. Vincent’s region. Soon after, a little chapel was built over the saint’s new burial site. Based on writings by Abu Abd Allah Muhammad al-Idrisi al-Qurtubi al-Hasani al-Sabti, a well known Muslim geographer, cartographer and traveler from the 12th century (but let’s call him Al-Idrisi, for short!), this chapel is believed to have been located a bit inland from the cape. According to popular myth, the ravens that had prevented the body of the saint from being eaten by the vultures continued to protect it over the years, going as far as accompanying the corpse on its move from Valencia to the cape. (Ok, probably not exactly the same birds but their descendents. ...well, I told you that this bit requires a bit of faith!) Curiously enough, the same Al-Idrisi refers to ravens that flew over the chapel, “their absence having never been registered. The priests who serve in the chapel tell of marvelous deeds performed by these ravens, but if others were to repeat these stories, they would hardly be believed by those who heard them.” Not surprisingly, Al-Idrisi refers to the chapel as Kanīsah al-Ghurāb, i.e., the Church of the Raven. Last chapter! In one of the many skirmishes during the reconquest of Lisbon in 1147, King Afonso Henriques made a votive offering to St. Vincent, should he and his fighters survive. You know the outcome! As a result of the offering, King Afonso Henriques ordered the construction of the monastery of St. Vincent Outside the Walls, built supposedly at the site of the skirmish (hence its location outside the town’s walls; the present monastery, built in the 17th century on the site of the original one, is one of Portugal’s most important mannerist buildings, and is the pantheon for the kings and queens of the House of Braganza). But it must have been a really bad skirmish, because apparently the monastery alone was not enough: in 1173, King Afonso Henriques ordered the remnants of the saint’s body exhumed and brought by ship from Cape St. Vincent to Lisbon, where they arrived on September 15, 1173. On the next day, they were moved to the Sé of Lisbon, where they’ve stayed since then. The cult of St. Vincent became so popular among Lisboetas that he was declared the Patron Saint of the city. According to popular myth, the ravens from the little chapel by the cape (descendents of those which had already protected the saint’s body in Valencia, remember?), followed the funeral cortège to Lisbon. It is the move by boat of the remnants of the saint’s body from Cape St. Vincent to Lisbon accompanied by the ravens that is depicted on Lisbon’s coat of arms. “But this cannot be the end of the story,” you say. “What about the winemakers?” Well, it turns out that St. Vincent is also the Patron Saint to this class of “miracle makers” of our days. Well worth a toast the next time that you have a glass of wine in front of you!

Bringing the story to our days: 1 - During the last visit of Pope Benedict XVI to Portugal, his gift from the Archdiocese of Lisbon was a piece of the relic from St. Vincent’s body. (Probably not as useful as the cork handbag that Secretary Clinton received from President Cavaco Silva, but that’s my own personal opinion!) 2 - The oldest representation of Lisbon’s coat of arms that survives to our day is the one on the water fountain at the Largo do Andaluz (in Picoas), dating back to 1336. 3 - And what happened to the birds? Until recently they flew freely through the cloisters of the Sé of Lisbon, but concerned with the damage that they were causing, they were moved to the nearby castle of St. Jorge.

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February 2012 nº3

Portuguese Love Stories: Two Real Portuguese Love Stories For all Seasons

Inês de Castro and Snu Abecassis were foreign born, beautiful women who found true love in Portugal. They lived 600 years apart but the circumstances, twists and turns of their lives and ultimate fate were determined by a turning point in Inês’ young existence and in Snu’s daily crunch of a not so conventional working mother of three. Both fell in love with powerful Portuguese men. Both paid the price of getting entangled in the intrigue and public humiliation of standing by a man without the State’s recognition or the Catholic Church’s blessing. Both fell in love with men, who not only loved them back as dearly but also put love ahead of power. Snu fell in love with a man who made sure the woman he loved stood by his side at all official functions. Inês loved a man who stood up to his father, the King, in her defense and their three young children.

A Nordic Princess and her Moorish Prince

As we tend to associate beauty with love, it comes as no surprise that a romantic legend has evolved around the origins of the almond trees in Algarve, Portugal’s most southern province. Once upon a time such trees did not grow in this Moorish Kingdom (8th-13th century). They were planted for a reason. And the reason was Love, true love of a Moorish prince for his Nordic princess. As happy as the royal couple was, every year in February, the princess missed the snow-covered mountains in her native Scandinavia. Snow in Algarve? Princes were powerful indeed, but they couldn’t change Mother Nature. Or maybe he could, the prince thought one day as he noticed the white blossoms on an almond tree in his beautiful garden. So, he had almond groves planted all around his palace to create a make-believe winter wonderland. Almond trees became part of the landscape in Algarve in February and a symbol of true love, so strong that overcomes anything and as natural and spontaneous as tiny white buds opening up to the timid rays of the winter sun.

Pedro and Inês: Love at Time of Revolution

Inês de Castro was a beautiful Castilian, actually Galician, noblewoman who came to Portugal in 1340 as a lady-in-waiting of princess Constança of Castile (Spain) who had recently married Dom Pedro, the heir to the Portuguese throne. As fate would have it, the prince fell in love with Inês and Constança’s untimely death should have cleared the way for a long, legitimate union. It should have but it did not. The growing influence of a Castilian lady and her powerful family on the heir to the throne was viewed as a threat to Portuguese independence by all social classes. The king-father did everything he could to end the relatinship, including sending Inês away from the court. To make matters worse, the prince had befriended Castilian exiled noblemen, namely Inês’ two brothers who had became his most trusted advisors. This friendship between the future king of Portugal and two enemies of the Spanish monarch might give the latter a credible excuse to start another war against his Iberian neighbor. Pedro and Inês were very much in love and true love is irresistible and fearless. Thus, they were not aware that politics could be an ever-present and real danger to their happiness. Besides, they had three beautiful, healthy children together. Nothing could tear them apart except death. So thought the king. But the king was wrong. Nothing can “put out the fire of real love” (in Os Lusíadas, by Luís de Camões). The prince made sure that their love would last throughout eternity. What men had separated, God would join together again and forever! The grieving prince turned his personal tragedy into a timeless tribute to Love. Love as a force that conquers all, even death. Love as the only feeling that overcomes fear and brings you true happiness.

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What m separated, join togeth and fo

Facts and Fiction

men had God would her again orever!

February 2012 nº3

“I’ll see you at the end of the world”

Inês was cruelly assassinated on January 7, 1355, in the Palace of Montes Claros, near Coimbra, where she lived or, according to the legend, in the nearby Quinta das Lágrimas (Farm of Tears) and in the presence of her three children. Heartbroken, overcome by grief and on the verge of madness, Pedro found in thoughts of revenge, simmering in his mind against his beloved Inês’ killers, a way to cope with the pain. Two years on, Pedro was acclaimed king of Portugal and immediately set out to hunt down and punish the three “heartless men“, Inêhe was able to capture suffered cruel and unusual punishment: the king ordered their hearts be cut out of their chests (one from the front, the other one from the back) as he watched and allegedly bit them. Two years after her death, Inês body was moved with all regal honors to the Monastery of Alcobaça, where a very elaborate tomb had been built for her. D. Pedro had a tomb made for himself as well, which was positioned in such a way, “feet-to-feet”, so that “at the end of time” they would stand up and face each other. There you can read the inscription. “Até ao fim do mundo”

“Snu and Francisco”

A beautiful twenty-year-old Danish girl arrived in Portugal in 1961 with her Portuguese husband, Vasco Abecassis. Her real name was Ebbe, but she adopted the nickname Snu in Sweden where she had moved to with her parents as a child. She had met her husband in London at the age of sixteen. However, it was not until sixteen years later that Snu found her prince: Francisco Sá Carneiro. In the early sixties, there was a wide economic, social and political gap between Portugal and the other western European countries. The year of 1961 was marked by the first blows to Portugal’s last Empire: Nehru occupies our three possessions in India, Goa, Damão and Diu and atrocious attacks are carried out in northern Angola, our largest and richest colony in Africa, by a liberation movement. For almost two decades, Salazar had turned a deaf ear to the loud voices in the United Nations demanding Portugal grant its five African colonies the right to selfdetermination. According to the Constitution of 1933, which heralded the New State, Salazar’s dictatorial regime, Portugal was uno and indivisible, from Minho to Timor. Thus, Salazar’s response to the “terrorist” attack in Angola was swift: “Para Angola rapidamente e em força” (To Angola quickly and with all our forces). All fit young men were drafted and Snu’s husband was no exception. In 1964, Snu had two children and a husband far away in Africa. But she was not the type of person to stay still and wait for things to happen. She made things happen, she was a leader, according to her own mother. She wanted to contribute, to do what she could and as much as she possibly could to help the Portuguese make a quantum leap into 20th century Europe by expanding the cultural spectrum. As a journalist given to intellectual pursuits, she found in the publishing world the vehicle to attain her goals. That’s how D. Quixote, a major publishing house today, came to be. On her chosen path there stood two powerful deterrents: censorship and the PIDE, the secret police, which was like an octopus that had taken a life of its own. However, Snu had weapons to fight them which were out of reach to the average Portuguese and she had no qualms about using them. Her status as a foreigner and a business woman from a pro-regime family who moved in diplomatic circles provided the protection she needed after a fall out with the PIDE. The dogs might bark but did not bite!

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consequences of a hasty decolonization: devastating civil wars in Angola and Mozambique and massacres in EastTimor, following Indonesia’s annexation, the exodus mainly from Angola and Mozambique.

A Nordic Princess

Times Were Changing

In the early seventies, the one-party political regime was bursting at the seams. The main reason was the Colonial War in three fronts that had been dragging on for thirteen years. In February 1974, the book Portugal And The Future, by reputed General António de Spínola, managed to elude the Censors and became an overnight bestseller. The General’s message was simple and clear: the solution for the colonial war was not military; it was political. The people’s clear support for a peaceful solution was the spark that ignited the Armed Forces on-going feud with the government and led to the military coup on April 25, 1974.

A Man from the North

Francisco Sá Carneiro was a lawyer, a democrat and a catholic from Oporto, Portugal’s northern capital, where his wife lived with their five children. He had given up on changing the one-party regime from the inside as a MP. Shortly after the military coup on April 25,1974, he founded a party, Partido Popular Democrático (now PSD, center-right)) with Francisco P. Balsemão, the head of Portugal’s largest Media group today, and M. Mota. In 1979, a PPD-CDS (right wing)-Monarchic coalition won a landslide victory in the legislative elections and Francisco S. Carneiro became prime-minister of Portugal. A strong character and a charismatic leader, he remained true to himself in politics and in his personal life and ultimately earned the respect of all Portuguese.

Love at a Time of Revolution

Snu and Francisco found true love amidst the political, social and economic turmoil that pervaded in post-April 25, 1974 Portugal. They lived through the Hot Summer of 1975, a very unstable period as the Portuguese rose up against another dictatorship, this time from the Communist Party. They were in Lisbon when on November 25, quiet General Ramalho Eanes gave a surprise military order which averted the eminent danger of a civil war. They witnessed the tragic

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Natália Correia, renowned Portuguese poet, described her dear friend Snu to Francisco as a “Nordic princess lying in an ice coffin waiting for her prince to come and kiss her back to life, you…” She did find the prince for her friend. In 1976, she arranged a dinner for two, a blind date, at A Varanda do Chanceller, a restaurant in Lisbon. It was love at first sight and for four years thereafter, Snu and Francisco walked together, unfaltering, along the rocky path toward a new, democratic Portugal, in which they would enjoy their freedom to love each other. In the 1970s, the average Portuguese mind was still imbued with Salazar’s unshakable values of Family, God and Homeland. Common law marriage was not so common, and in the terms of an agreement signed by Salazar and the Vatican in 1940, there was no going back on “till death do you part”. But the winds of change were already blowing. April 25th, the Flowers’ Revolution, was more than a military coup. It was also the explosion of on-going changes that would propel Portuguese society to be more in synch with modern Europe. The Portuguese Constitution of 1976 reinstated democracy and set the beginning of the 3rd Republic.

The Power of Love

Love knows no fear. As prime minister of Portugal, Francisco made sure Snu stood always by his side at public functions. He would choose Love over politics as he stated loud and clear. But death came suddenly on December 4, 1980, for both of them. Snu and Francisco had just boarded a small plane at Lisbon airport. They were flying to OPorto where Francisco de Sá Carneiro was to participate in a political event. Less than a minute after take-off, the plane crashed.

February 2012 nº3

Photo by: Valter Jacinto

É Carnaval, Ninguém Leva Mal... It’s Carnival, no one takes it bad...

Photo by: Rosa Cabecinhas and Alcino Cunha

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February 2012 nº3

All

over Portugal, weeks, days and hours are spent conceptualizing the theme of each year’s Carnival festivities. Elaborate floats, decorative costumes, music ensembles, dance troupes and heaps of enthusiasm represent the dedication that the Portuguese devote to this old tradition. There are many variations of Carnival depending on the history and customs of each region but generally the mainstream Brazilian inspired festivities are practiced but unlike the Brazilian festival, there is generally a political and social undertone to the celebrations. However, in more rural areas you might witness partygoers with under wear over their heads! Ah, yes, this is the sign that you are partaking in a true Portuguese Carnival! Common features in every Carnival parade up and down the country are the matrafonas (men dressed up as women) and the Queen and King of Carnival. In rural areas you may witness party goers with underwear over their heads! Ah, yes, this is the sign that you are partaking in a true Portuguese Carnival! The four days of Carnival are a great opportunity to let loose and step outside the everyday norm. It is a time for freedom, expression and harmless fun. More serious types will invariably remark that this is the time of the year when some people will show who they really are! Carnival in Portugal dates back as early as the 13th century, particularly during the reign of Afonso III. It derives from the Latin word introitus, or Entrudo which in Portuguese means “entrada” entry or intro. These terms refer to the three-day period that preceded the entry to Lent, Quaresma. It was a popular party that evoked spontaneous behaviour where people would throw buckets of water, eggs, oranges, flour and other random food at passers by. A real uncivilized spectacle but harmless fun… sometimes. Also during this period, the mask used in Greek Theater, was a required element for Entrudo. It had the power to transform a person into another person. The same was true for costumes. The altering of one’s image was considered disruptive to social and religious order. By the 16th century, Roman festivals known as Carnival were adopted and accepted as common Christian practice which began on Kings Day and ended on Ash Wednesday, the eve of Lent. The word stems from the Latin carnelevāre, “abstaining from meat”. Carnival and Entrudo crossed paths when every year, the priest would place the ashes from the previous year’s ceremony of burning blessed palm tree leaves top of the heads of believers on Ash Wednesday. This ash was also from the burning of Entrudo whereby a purifying religious ceremony would bring back daily religious and social order. In the late 19th century Portuguese authorities in Lisbon and Porto felt the need to civilize the popular festival and curb the rowdiness of the street

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crowds. Entertainers, acrobats, and fighting dancers were contained into an organized street parade. Later, fancy dress and salsa dancing were added to the shows. Rivalry between neighborhoods emerged and year after year each borough would try to out do the other by introducing elaborately decorated cars, extravagant costumes, music and dance routines. Carnival is best known worldwide as a Brazilian tradition and has rightfully become a symbol of “Carioca” culture even though it was the Portuguese who introduced it in the late 1700’s. To be fair when it comes to festivities. the Brazilians are the masters. The grandest, most lavish, over the top celebrations have become Brazil’s claim to fame and many Brazilians pride themselves on being the biggest party people! In 2010, the Guinness Book of World Records named the Carnival of Rio de Janeiro the biggest Carnival in the world and the largest popular party on the planet not mention the most famous. I’m sure that the summer weather, half naked women, samba dancing and overall good spirited ambiance had nothing do with it! The closest comparison, in spirit, to the massive Brazilian Carnival is the one celebrated on a small island known as the “Pearl of the Atlantic”. With inexpensive flights and cheapish accommodation, thousands flock to be a part of the fun filled, flavorful festival in Madeira, which is considered the best European Carnival. It is the first major celebration of the year and in keeping with tradition, there are two main Carnival parades. The fictional/commercial parade takes place on the Saturday of Carnival weekend. This year’s theme is astrological and focuses on the zodiac. The detailed costumes and embellished mobile floats contribute to the festive energy but it is the fervor of the population that makes Carnival in Madeira a memorable experience. Months of dedication by the locals is revealed through captivating performances by local dance troupes, musical ensembles like big brass bands and the spectators who take to the streets of Funchal in support of it all. On Terça – Feira Gorda or Fat Tuesday the second parade called ‘trapalhão’, meaning clumsiness or making a mess of things, fills the streets of Funchal for the last celebration of the Carnival revelries. In this parade or street party, everyone joins in the fun, dressed appropriately of course, in wild and wacky costumes that leave little to the imagination! On the mainland, Carnival is celebrated with just as much enthusiasm, even if the weather conditions are poor. A little rain and low temperatures won’t stop eager participants from strapping on teeny-weeny bikinis and strutting their samba moves atop a paper maché float. Not even Troika has this power! This “anything goes” festival is also used as a platform to express political and social discontent. Gigantic floats molded and distorted

Photo by: Rosa Cabecinhas and Alcino Cunha

to resemble political figures are common in Carnival parades in Portugal. This year, in response to the dramatic austerity measures imposed by the government, it is expected that the images of the prime minister, finance minister and Portugal´s President will mark their presence up and down the country.

most were presented with little class and poor taste. A group of locals decided to take action and transformed the crass event into an elegant and sophisticated affair. Their efforts paid off and today Carnival in Loulé is famous for addressing social and political issues as well as important current events with humor.

Torres Vedras

Podence

has been named the most village located in the Trás os Montes region “Portuguese” of all carnival celebrations in Portugal. It is one of the few is home to the most bizarre Carnival tradition in Portugal. The colorful that maintain strong ties to its roots and faithful to the Entrudo festivities. “Caretos” are a gang of young bachelors dressed in traditional yellow, red, The massive street party relies on the spontaneous participation of the black, blue and green fringe wool quilts with brightly colored wooden spectators. In keeping with tradition, the parade is made up of ornate or leather masks and a zinc or tin nose disguising their faces. Cowbells, floats reaching five meters tall with organized groups all in themed “chocalhos” hanging from their waists announce their unexpected arrival costumes, the “matrafonas”, men dressed as women and the famous in the town. This fearsome gang reaps havoc among the local population cabeçudos, giant heads. Participants are encouraged to join in the fun and by playing tricks on locals, raiding local wine cellars, intimidating the men contribute to the thousands that make the Carnival festivities in Torres and terrorizing single women with a unique courtship dance that involves Vedras one of the most vibrant celebrations in Portugal. grabbing a young woman and bumping the cowbells against her hips. The “caretos” are diabolic characters and represent a pre-historic pagan ritual related to agrarian fertility cults. The masked men show strength boasts a reputable Carnival celebration that and vitality through energetic jumping, bumping, running and overall dates back to the late 19th century. It is famous for the “Battle of Flowers”, rowdiness that spreads terror, excitement and laughter. elaborate fantasy floats sponsored by a handful of businesses and local families. The extravagant displays would parade through the streets of Although many may frown upon the week of festive foolishness, there Estarreja as a manifestation of happiness and joy. Following the death of is no better remedy for the monotony of routine and every day life than the local benefactors, this tradition declined but the spirit of Carnival had to step out into the world in a crazy costume that is completely out of already been seeded in Estarreja and slowly locals began a revival of the character to your every day self. Carnival is a great excuse to unleash your old tradition. In the early 90´s, Estarreja reclaimed its reputation as one of alter ego and enjoy life like a child, even if for only one day. So, why not most elaborate street parties and to date continues to thrive wear underwear on your head, bombard someone with flour or eggs or shake your cowbells at an unsuspecting partygoer? After all… é carnival ninguém leva mal! held its first civilized Carnival in 1906. Before then celebrations were displays of unwitty aggressive public behavior and to

Estarreja

Loulé

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February 2012 nº3

Beiras “As Beiras”, meaning borders, is the traditional provincial name of the geographical divisions now known as Central Portugal. Stretching from the Spanish border to the Silver Coast, this region is rich with diverse landscapes like the picturesque mountain range of Serra da Estrela where the tallest peak in continental Portugal majestically overlooks the bountiful pine and chestnut tree forests. The winding river valleys of the Mondego, the Vouga and Zêzere outline the rugged lush countryside inviting visitors to discover the unspoiled beauty and charm that characterizes Central Portugal. Natural streams, forests, arable land and a long coastline make the Centro region densely populated and economically vibrant. In this vast geographically diverse region, there are three distinct provinces, Beira Alta (Upper), Beira Baixa (Lower) and Beira Litoral (Coastal). The largest urban centers include Coimbra, Figueira da Foz, Aveiro as part of the Beira Litoral, Viseu and Guarda in the Beira Alta and Castelo Branco and Covilhã in the Beira Baixa region. All throughout these regions historic towns and villages have been well guarded by castles built by the early kings of Portugal. World Cultural heritage sites including monasteries, convents, and churches are witnesses to a deep historical and cultural past. Nature has sanctified this region with healing waters found in towns such as Curia and Luso and ancient forests preserve natural treasures like the mystifying Bucaço woodlands. The coastal region includes impressive beaches, such as, Mira, Figueira da Foz, Costa Nova and São Martinho do Porto which provide breath taking views of the rough Atlantic Ocean that inspire traditional arts and crafts. The Beiras region is one of remarkable contrasts, the ancient and modern, sea and mountains, forests and valleys that appeal to all tastes, the nature lovers, the history enthusiasts, and the culturally curious.

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Photo: Dafema

Photo: Fernando de Sousa

February 2012 nº3

history

Photo: Vitor Oliveira

The Beiras region was inhabited by the Lusitanian’s before the Roman’s invaded, conquered and colonized the region as a part of the Roman Province of Lusitânia. Evidence of this fact is in the remains of the ancient Roman town of Conímbriga near Coimbra, which is among the most noted and wellpreserved site of its kind. With the decline of the Roman Empire came the Visigoth rule that lasted from the 5th to the 8th century. The Muslim conquest ensued but shortly after, the Christian Reconquista began and would last for 589 years. Beiras was the main battlefield in Iberia for the Moorish and Christian Crusaders. After the Moors were expelled, the Christian Kings and landlords declared the region the County of Coimbra and it became part of the newly established Condado Portucalensis, the first phase of Portuguese independence. Along the mountainous border with Spain there are a series of fortresses and castles that once protected the country from its many invaders. For centuries, Moors and Christians, Spaniards and Portuguese have all tried to conquer these villages, but their higher elevations and military inspired construction gave them a distinct advantage. There are more than one dozen fortified frontier villages that have witnessed 900 years of epic battles upon which Portugal fought to become a nation. Each village has a fascinating tale of its own to tell and today Portugal boasts the longest standing border in all of Europe. Examples of these villages include Almeida whose polygon-shaped fortress was in the 18th century considered unassailable, Castelo Mendo, Castelo Novo, Castelo Rodrigo, Idanha-a-Velha (with Roman remains and a cathedral of Visigothic origin); Linhares da Beira, Marialva, Piodao Sortelha and Monsanto, the oldest vilage in Portugal built on the site of the ancient Lusitanian fortified camp of Serra de Penha Garcia.

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BEIRA LITORAL

COIMBRA

In the mid-12th century, the first Portuguese King, D.Afonso Henriques, turned Coimbra into the capital of the new Kingdom that would maintain its status until 1255. Many important monuments of the city date from this early period, like the Old Cathedral, the Church of St. James (Igreja de Santiago) and the Santa Cruz Monastery, which was the most important Portuguese monastic institution at the time. Overlooking the city is allegedly the second oldest University in the world with its old tower and an impressive Baroque library. In the adjacent quarters you will find the Old Cathedral (Romanesque) and the Machado de Castro Museum, built over a Roman crypto portico that house significant Flemish and Portuguese paintings. Ancient streets, with medieval walls, arches and stairways are what make Coimbra a cultural gem. Burning of ribbons

Queima das Fitasis an old tradition

that is organized by a students’ commission, which celebrates graduation day. A colored ribbon represents each faculty of the University of Coimbra. The celebrations usually commence in May, which includes a student’s parade, final gala, and the historical evening student fado serenade (Serenata Monumental) that takes place on the stairs of the Old Cathedral of Coimbra.

AVEIRO

is known as the Venice of Portugal. Surrounded by salt-flats, beaches and lagoons it is well know for salt production and seaweed harvesting which is then used as fertilizer. The Central Canal is the dominant feature of the town and is also where the typical moliceiros, colorful fishing seaweed gathering boats, are docked. The religious monuments are highlights of Aveiro and include the 15th century São Domingos Cathedral, Carmelite Church, 16th century Misericórdia Church and the former Jesus Monasatery that houses objects belonging to King Afonso V’s daughter, Santa Joana,who died in Aveiro in 1490.

ÍLHAVO

is the main harbour for fishing in the Aveiro municipality. It boasts two popular beaches Praia da Barra, where the tallest lighthouse in Portugal, (Farol de Aveiro or da Barra) is situated and the Praia da Costa Nova (Costa Nova do Prado), with its typical brightly colored fishermen’s houses called Palheiros. Ílhavo has strong roots with the cod fishing industry. In the Museum Maritímo de Ílhavo the entire exhibition is dedicated to the White Fleet fisheries and Ria de Aveiro fishermen. The last tugboat to be used can be seen in the temporary exhibitions section of the museum.

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BEIRA LITORAL is the longest river

Rio Mondegothat begins and ends exclusively on Portuguese territory. Serra da Estrela, the highest mountain range in mainland Portugal is the source of this natural stream and it travels 234 km from the Gouveia municipality in Serra da Estrela, through the districts of Guarda, Viseu and Coimbra untill spilling out into the rough Atlantic Ocean next to the city of Figueira da Foz.

Portugal dos Pequenitos

Photo: Anabela Maximiliano

“Little Ones Portugal” is a theme park dedicated to the most famous constructions in existence in Portugal today. The small scale replicas pay homage to the great architectural landmarks of the Portuguese Empire and have pavilions dedicated to the former Portuguese colonies. It was founded in 1940, and it is the work of architect Cassiano Branco. It was completed in the 1950’s.

the best preserved Roman Conímbrigaissettlement in classifying it as a National Heritage Monument. The excavated site to the south of Coimbra shows evidence of Roman occupation as early as the 2nd century BC. It was a town on the Roman road that came from Sellium (Tomar) and made its way to Aeminium (Coimbra). The city walls are largely intact, and the mosaic floors and foundations of many houses and public buildings remain. is a luxury located in the lush mountains of Serra do Bussaco, in the municipality of Mealhada. The original Barefoot Carmelite convent was established in 1628 along with an impressive garden with over 700 species of vegetation from all corners of the world. Part of the convent, including the church with Baroque altarpieces, is still preserved beside the palace. Although the grounds transmit tranquillity it was the battleground for The Battle of Bussaco when Duke Wellington expelled Napolean’s troops from the mountains. Italian architect Luigi Manini, who designed a Romantic palace in honor of the Portuguese Age of Discovery, built the new Manueline style palace between 1888 and 1907.

Palace of Bussacohotel

Photo: Vitor Oliveira

PIÓDÃO

is one of the most beautiful isolated villages of Portugal. Located in the mountains of Serra do Açor, the characteristic stone found in this vast region was the main building material used to construct the series of the traditional schist villages in this region. The walls of these hillside homes have two layers, the exterior built with bigger stones and the interior with smaller stones. The windows and doors of every house are painted pale blue. The reason for this is unclear but it has become a distinct feature of the village of Piódão.

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BELMONTE

is the birth place of Portuguese explorer Álvares Cabral, who discovered Brazil in 1500 around the time when a significant Jewish community settled in Belmonte. Jews fleeing persecution in Castile took refuge here and lived in houses located in the Marrocos district outside the castle walls. The symbols of their professions, such as tailor’s scissors, can still be seen engraved on the doorposts of the medieval houses.

BEIRA ALTA

VISEU

is rich in culture with ample churches, convents and chapels, a historic quarter (Centro Historico) with narrow cobbled streets and hidden alleyways. In addition to the main cathedral and sacred art museum, there are six major churches, four chapels, two convents, and the bishop’s palace. Viseu was the birthplace of one of the greatest Portuguese painters of the 16th century, Vasco Fernandes (1475–1540), more widely known as Grão Vasco. Today his name is associated to a museum that houses most of his paintings (the Grão Vasco Museum), a hotel, a school, and even a wine label. An interesting feature of Viseu is the Cava de Viriato, an embankment that dates from between the second and the first century BC. This is the largest monument from the Lusitania period in the Iberian Peninsula. It is thought to have been the fortress where remarkable warrior Viriatus, chief of the Lusitanian’s, rebelled against Roman occupation.

PINHEL

derives from the Portuguese word pinhal, meaning forrest. This ancient military village is one of many but Pinhel was the most advanced stronghold in this part of Portugal until the 13th century. It is surrounded by walls and rivers and located in the center of a system of fortifications that included the significant castles of Trancoso, Marialva and Castelo Mendo. To the south of Pinhel lies the historic village of Almeida whose pride is a star-shaped castle. In the area around Pinhel other places of historical interest include the 15th century manor house of the aristocratic Távora family in Soupires and the Baroque manor house in Santa Eufémia.

GUARDA

is the largest city in its district, and the capital of the Beira Alta sub region. It is the highest city in Portugal with an altitude of 1,056 meters and is located to the northeast of Serra da Estrela, the largest mountain in mainland Portugal. Guarda has strong royal connections. King Dinis stayed here after his marriage to Isabel of Aragon in Trancoso, King Fernando came for the pure air in efforts to cure lung disease and Afonso V held court here in 1465. Traditionally known as the three f’s city: fria e feia, farta which means cold, ugly and wealthy.

Serra da Estrela Natural Park is the largest protected area in Portugal. Located in the central mountainous range it is crisscrossed by rivers and streams such as the Mondego and Zêzere that originate here. The Torre is the highest point on mainland Portugal and rises to 1,993 metres (6,539 ft). In the winter months the modern ski resort and surrounding areas flood with locals and tourists to catch a glimpse of the fresh fallen snow and enjoy an afternoon of playful

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February 2012 nº3

picturesque views of wild-flower pastures and spectacular mountain views which transmit a purifying tranquillity. For hundreds of years, those suffering from long-term illnesses have sought out the fresh mountain air. The curative properties in the air of Caramulo have been the hope of many. The region is also know for the black clay craftsmanship made in the village of Molelos which has thrived for several generations. Unique to this area are two museums, the Abel Lacerda museum which houses many contemporary painters including works of Picasso and Dali and the automobile museum with a valuable collection of old cars in working order like the 1899 Peugeot, a 1911 Rolls Royce, and two Bugatti’s.

Caramuloboasts

Serra da Estrela, and travels through the town of Manteigas, passing south of the city Covilhã and east of the town of Pedrogão Grande. It meets the Tejo in Constância, in the Ribatejo. It is the second longest river exclusively Portuguese and it’s slope allows for the hydroelectric powerplants of Bouçã, Cabril and Castelo de Bode. The Zêzere winds around beautiful locations like Álvaro which is one of the “white villages” of the Slate Villages Network known for its stone walls that are covered in white plaster. Further down leading to the Cabril Dam, there is a relaxing spot where the noble architecture of the white villages can be fully appreciated.

Linhares da Beira Rio Zêzere flows down from

BEIRA ALTA

A small village in the heart of the Serra da Estrela and home to a Lusitanian hilltop fort offers paragliding trips that provide amazing views of the mountains, villages, and rivers common to this area. The granite houses and narrow streets of this mountain village have earned its title as the ‘cathedral of paragliding’. This unique experience undoubtedly provides a different perspective that compliments the unspoiled beauty of this region.

fun. This region is also celebrated for the tasty cheese produced here, rightly named Queijo da Serra, which is still made by hand and highly prized for its rich flavour. Sheep’s milk is used to produce the tasty cheese and by using ancestral techniques the artisanal trade has become an art form. Herds of sheep grazing freely on the hillside contribute to the region’s most characteristic product but it is the Serra de Estrela dogs, a unique Portuguese breed, in their hefty coats that guarantee the preservation of this regional treasure.

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BEIRA BAIXA

February 2012 nº3

CASTELO BRANCO

and the Episcopal Gardens beside the former Bishops’ Palace are an extraordinary and rare sight. A combination of granite statues representing zodiac symbols, saints and apostles and other bizarre figures stand amidst well-trimmed boxed hedges and orange trees in a maze like fashion. The Francisco Tavares Proença Júnior Museum, located in the Bishop’s Palace exhibits a valuable collection of old quilts like the traditional wedding quilts, embroidered in silk thread on linen cloth, with designs related to home and marriage.

COVILHÃ

With a population of roughly 35,000, Covilhã is considered the door to the Serra da Estrela, as the town center is just 20 km away from the Tower, which at almost 2000 meters of altitude, is the highest point in continental Portugal. The Portuguese associate Covilhã with wool and textile factories. For centuries, sheep grazing on the mountain hills and surrounding valleys have been providing the raw material for the textile factories, which in turn were powered by two rivers flowing from the mountain through the town.

MONSANTO

,during the period of dictatorship was voted the most “Portuguese” village. According to history, in the 2nd century BC, Mons Sanctus, the Roman name for Monsanto, was under siege. For seven years, the villagers fought against Roman occupation. Although spirits were strong, stomachs were weak. In efforts to mislead the Romans, the villagers threw a cow with a full stomach of wheat over the village walls to show that they still had abundant supplies and could continue their resistance. The Romans left defeated by the old throw the cow over the wall trick! This is the legend that is celebrated every year on May 3rd by the townspeople of Monsanto. They parade up the hill to the castle, to the sound of adufes (square tambourines) and sing ancient songs. Flowers are thrown onto the rocks as a symbol of freedom.

International Tagus

Natural Park stretches over 26 hectares in the municipalities of Castelo Branco and Idanha-a-Nova. This territory integrates with the Meseta Meridional Geopark Naturtejo which is a geopark recognized by UNESCO due to its vast geomorphological, geological, palaeontological and geomining heritage, which can be enjoyed through a wide network of walking trails. This natural setting is home to 154 species of birds including black storks, eagles and eagle owls.

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February 2012 nº3

Portuguese Reading Club You are quite fluent in Portuguese, but you feel you

of life, on the beauty of all

have reached a plateau. By now, you can have a nice,

things, on tolerance.” The

quite lengthy conversation with a native Portuguese

book that placed Miguel

speaker without getting too tired. However you feel that

Sousa Tavares at the very

you lack vocabulary and you are aware that you do not

top

know, let alone use very common Portuguese idiomatic

list is the historic novel

expressions. Well! If you enjoy reading, this is the way to

Equador,

get to the next level of language fluency. I suggest you

published

start with the book Não te Deixarei Morrer, David Crockett,

has been translated into

2001, a collection of very short chronicles published in

several languages. The story starts in 1908, Portugal, and

the magazine Máxima as well as other very short stories

spans two more continents: India and Africa. The cocoa

on a variety of topics, by Miguel Sousa Tavares, a best-

production and trade rivalry between the two colonial

the

bestsellers’

which in

2003

was and

selling author, journalist and

powers, Portugal and Great

TV political commentator. An

Britain ultimately boils down

array of topics addressed in

to two European men, one

a very easy to read, touching,

from the South, the other one

witty writing style that is

from the North, meeting their

also as unpretentious as it is

destiny at this tiny Portuguese

beautiful. His flowing, poetic

colony, in the Guinea Gulf,

prose comes naturally from

on the Equator. In fact, the

his mother, the much admired

novel’s plot is an illustration

and

poet

of the first paragraph: “Had

and writer, Sophia de Mello

he known what destiny had

Bryner Anderson. One of the

in store for him, perhaps

award-winning

stories is about the author’s

Luís Bernardo Valença would

family, the Anderson clan, whose Portuguese branch

not have gotten on the train at Barreiro Station, that

started with Miguel’s maternal grandfather, Johan Henrik

rainy morning, in December 1908”. If you are keen on

Anderson, a Danish merchant, who “according to the

travel literature, you may find Sul, by the same author,

family legend” at the age of fourteen got on the first boat

as delightful as I do. A coffee table edition of this book

he saw in his native Fohr and ended up in Oporto, Portugal.

makes a perfect any occasion gift.

The insightful reflection on living and loss, from the story Eternally, does lose a lot in the translation: “I believe that we can not lose anything that is really important to us. We are simply fooling ourselves if we believe that we can hold on to things, moments and people. All my loved ones who are no longer among us, all my friends who have walked away, all happy days forever gone are still with me. I haven’t lost anything but the illusion that I could hold on to everything and everyone for ever “ Another beautiful story describes the Mediterranean civilization as it once was, before it was split between Christianity and Islam:

Reading Helper Words and idiomatic expressions of the month: 1. custe o que custar: whatever it takes, come hell or high water 2. não custa nada: it’s easy, no big deal 3. custa muito: it’s hard (to bear) 4. piegas: whiner, sissy, too emotional, weak (all of the above) in one word)

“civilization of the light, arts, architecture, democracy, law, navigation and discovery, ocean and desert, of islands, of vineyards, olive orchards and pinewoods, of columns and tiles, patios, terraces and balconies, white washed

For any questions or comments e-mail: delfina.v.t@gmail.com

walls, of whites and blues. Founded on the celebration

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February 2012 nº3

BEIRAS WINE REGION TOP 10 Economical

1. Sociedade dos Vinhos Borges Dão Meia Encosta Dão Dry white wine €1.43 2. Companhia das Quintas Vinho Regional Beiras Quinta do Cardo Vinho Regional Beiras Dry red wine €1.50 3. Porta Dos Cavaleiros Dão Dão Dry red wine €1.99 4. Borlido Bairrada Bairrada Dry red wine €2.10 5. Quinta do Encontro Bairrada Encontro 1 Bairrada Dry white wine €2.10 6. 2007 Porta Dos Cavaleiros Dão Dão Dry red wine €2.12 7. Quinta dos Termos Beira Interior Reserva Beira Interior Dry red wine €2.20 8. Udaca Vinho Regional Beiras Irreverente Vinho Regional Beiras Dry red wine €2.21 9. Companhia das Quintas Vinho Regional Beiras Quinta do Cardo Síria Vinho Regional Beiras Dry white wine €2.21 10. 2009 Grao Vasco Dão Branco Dão Dry white wine €2.50

Value for Money

1. 2002 Quinta D' Aguieira Beira Interior Touriga Nacional Reserva Beira Interior Dry red wine €3.96 2. 2008 Sociedade Agrícola do Casal de Tonda Dão Quinta dos Grilos Vinho Tinto Dão Dry red wine €3.88 3. 2007 Casa de Santar Dão Dão Dry red wine €4.00 4. 2009 Sociedade dos Vinhos Borges Dão Meia Encosta Dão Dry red wine €3.60 5. 2008 Quinta da Dona Bairrada Bairrada Dry red wine €2.71 6. 2005 Colinas de São Lourenço Bairrada Bairrada Dry red wine €4.00 7. 2009 Casa de Santar Dão Reserva Dão Dry white wine €4.00 8. 2008 Casa de Santar Dão Reserva Dão Dry white wine €5.40 9. 2007 Sociedade Agrícola do Casal de Tonda Dão Quinta dos Grilos Vinho Tinto Dão Dry red wine €3.12 10. 2007 Quinta da Dona Bairrada Bairrada Dry red wine €3.60

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Beiras

is a prominent wine region and home to some of the most distinctive and distinguished red wines. Many styles of wine are produced in Beiras such as the deep reds made from the most popular grape variety Baga and the vines of Casteão, Rufete (Tinto Pinheira), Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Touriga Nacional. Whites are based mostly on Fernão Pires and Bical. Like the geographical divisions the Beiras wine region is divided into three areas, Beira Litoral, where the Bairrada wines are produced, Beira Alta, home to the famous Dão wines and Beira Baixa, or Beira Interior which has three subdivisions. Bairrada is a Portuguese wine region located in the Beira Litoral region and has the highest wine classification as a Denominação de Origem Controlada (DOC). Bairrada DOC includes the municipalities of Anadia, Cantanhede, Mealhada and Oliveira do Bairro. The prime grapes of the Bairrada region include Baga, Borrado das Moscas, Castelão Frances, Fernao Pires, Rabo de Ovelha and Tinta Pinheira. Baga is possibly the most important red-wine grape of this region. In Bairrada it accounts for more than threequarters of the red grape cultivation. The small thickskinned Baga grape produces deeply colored, highly acidic and very tannic wines, which are not for everyone’s palate. The French red-wine grapes Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah are blended to soften Baga wines and make them more appealing to wine consumers who are new to classic Portuguese wine. Bairrada also produces good, fresh, dry sparkling white wine that varies in style from light and fragrant to firm and rugged. Today blending Sauvignon, Chardonnay and other foreign varieties with local grapes such as Arinto and Bical is common practice. Classic Bairrada wines are still produced by labels such as Luís Pato Quinta de Baixo, Quinta das Bágeiras, Caves São João, Casa de Saima, Caves do Freixo and Sidónia de Sousa. Modern wine producers using blended varieties include Filipa Pato, Artwine, Campolargo, Colinas de São Lourenço and Quinta do Encontro. Caves Aliança is successfully with both styles and the Adega Cooperativa de Cantanhede is considered the best of the traditional co-ops. Dão wine originates from the Beira Alta region and it is one of the oldest established wine regions in Portugal. Dão

February 2012 nº3

wine is produced in the mountainous region of Serra da Estrela, Serra do Caramulo and Serra da Nave in the area of the Rio Mondego and Dão rivers. The sheltered plateau helps the area maintain its temperate climate away from the damaging effects of the nearby Atlantic Ocean. The Dão region is the origin of the Touriga Nacional vine that is the principal component of Port wine. Dão wines are generally more acidic to due the slow ripening process resulting from low temperatures and granite soils. Reds are often fragrant and sophisticated and are created from the excellent Touriga Nacional grape either alone or combined with other grapes. Wine labels from this region include Alvaro de Castro’s Quinta de Sães and Quinta da Pellada, Dão Sul, Quinta dos Roques, Casa da Insua and Quinta Vale das Escadinha. The Beira Baixa also known as Beira Interior produce an infinite range of wine. Guarda, the highest city in all of Portugal produces IPR wines in the areas of Castelo Rodrigo, Cova de Beira and Pinhel. Several types of light, sparkling wines are produced here like Raposeira, a sparkling wine label that is a popular and inexpensive champagne substitute. Castelo Rodrigo (IPR) includes the municipalities of Almeida and Figueira de Castelo Rodrigo, which are economically dependent on wine cultivation. The red wine is elegant and ruby in color while the white is dry and fruity. Notable wine labels from this region are D´Aguiar and Quinta do Cardo. Cova da Beira (IPR) covers the municipalities of Belmonte, Castelo Branco, Covilhä, Fundäo, Manteigas, Penamacor, Sabugal, Guarda, Vila Velha de Rodäo and Idanha-a-Nova. The red wine produced is separated into two distinct areas, Covilhã, a region producing light and low alcohol content wines, and the other municipalities that produce more fullbodied wines that can be aged. Pinhel (IPR) incorporates the municipalities of Celorico da Beira, Guarda, Meda, Pinhel and Trancoso. The red wine is light and gently acidic and the white wine is fresh with fruity flavors and aromas.

Beiras, produces an abundance of rich cheeses from fresh, soft, white cheeses, to dense hard cheeses. The most famous cheese from this region is the award winning Queijo da Serra da Estrela, a buttery “amanteigado”, gluttonous cheese that can literally be scooped out and eaten with a spoon. The best way to enjoy the richness of the Serra is to spread this delectable cheese across a fresh piece of regional rustic bread. Other regional cheeses that are produced in Beiras include Queijo de Castelo Branco and Queijo Amarelo da Beira Baixa. Requeijão is another type of cheese that is a type of cottage cheese, similar to “ricotta”. Throughout the region this soft cheese is used in Queijadas da Beira or Queijadas de Coimbra, which are cheesecake pastries made from requeijão. Sprinkled with brown sugar makes a delicious dessert or anytime snack. Perhaps the most appreciated local and national treasure is Leitão from Bairrada, suckling pig roasted on a spit and confectioned with light spicy gravy. The moist, tender meat of the milk fed piglet is always present at any traditional celebration. It is an essential part of Portuguese gastronomy and culture. In the small town of Mealhada alone, there are fifty suckling pig restaurants and takeaways!

Wines From the Beira Baixa or Beira Interior, include, Quinta dos Termos, Quinta dos Currais, Rogenda, Almeida Garrett and Quinta do Cardo, and for Quinta do Foz de Arouce, Quinta dos Cozinheiros and Bussaco Palace Hotel in Vinho Regional Beiras.

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February 2012 nº3

Rancho à Moda de Viseu Serves 10

Ingredients: 1/2 of a chicken 500 g beef for stewing (aba carregada)

500 g pork ribs 1 chouriço 200 g de bacon 300 g chick peas

1 kg potatoes 4 carrots 2 Portuguese cabbages

400 g macaroni (large or small) salt cumin olive oil

Preparation: Presoak the chick peas over night. Drain and boil in a large pot with salt and the beef. Once the chick peas are soft add the chouriço, bacon, pork ribs, and chicken untill cooked. Peel and cut potatoes into cubes. Chop carrots and cabbage. Remove all the meats and add the cubed peeled potatoes, chopped carrots and cabbage. Once brought to the boil add the macaroni and season to taste with salt. Chop the meats into small pieces and return them to the pot. The stew should be slighlty liquidy, add water when necessary. Serve with a dash of cumin and a drizzle of olive oil. * for a lighter meal use either chick peas, macaroni or potatoes.

Creme Caseira de Guarda

Ingredients: 5 dl milk 4 eggs 1 teacup of sugar (approx.) 1 tablespoon of flour 5-6 drops of lemon juice Preparation: Beat egg whites until stiff. Beat the egg yolks and sugar until the mixture is fluffy and whitened. Add sifted flour and mix well. Add lemon juice. Boil the milk and add the egg mixture. Stir and allow to boil for a few minutes. Remove form heat and continue to stir. Add the egg whites and allow to cool. Once the cream has cooled place in a shallow serving dish or individual ramekins. Sprinkle the surface with sugar and caramelize.

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February 2012 nยบ3

Bacalhau Assado com Batatas a Murro Serves 6

Ingredients: 4 thick pieces of codfish 5 dl olive oil

4 cloves of garlic 1 kg small red potatoes

sea salt pepper

Preparation: Pre-soak salted codfish for 2-3 days depending on the thickness of the pieces. Pre-soaked frozen cod can also be used as long as it has been thoroughly defrosted and excess moisture absorbed. Place the codfish on the barbecue or griddle until codfish is cooked through. Pour olive oil into a frying pan and add the garlic. Make sure the oil is hot before adding the codfish. Separate the codfish flakes in the pan so that the olive oil is absorbed into the fish. Serve immediately with punched potatoes. Preparation for potatoes: Wash potatoes well and sprinkle with sea salt. Roast the potatoes in the oven or boil potatoes and place on the barbecue to firm up the potato skin. Once the potatoes are roasted, press or punch until the potato skin tears.

Biscoitos de Azeite Ingredients: 8 eggs 250 g sugar 2,5 dl olive oil 1,100 kg flour (aprox.) 1 teaspoon of cinnamon sugar and cinnamon to dust 1 egg for glazing

Preparation: Beat 5 whole eggs and 3 egg yolks with the sugar and a teaspoon of cinnamon. Add the olive oil and continue to beat while adding the flour. Mix well until a cookie dough is formed that can be molded. Using a little flour, mold the cookie dough into a thick S shape. Glaze with egg wash and sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon. Place on a cookie tray and bake for 20 minutes untill golden. Serve with tea or coffee.

LusoInfo

February 2012 nº3

LUSO INFO The Inside Guide to Life in Portugal

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1/3 Page Horizontal Banner

20 cm x 9 cm

1/2 Page

20 cm x 13,50 cm

1/4 Page

10 cm x 13,50 cm

New! Business Card

5 cm x 7 cm (verNcal or horizontal)

New! Classiﬁed

3 cm x 4 cm (verNcal or horizontal)

‘The measure of any school is its students; the students of

St. Julian’s are superb and leave a positive impression on anyone who meets them. The students embody the vision and mission of the School, showing very clearly that the School has created an environment where children can flourish’. (from the accreditation report on St Julian’s by the Council of International Schools)

www.stjulians.com

Quinta Nova, 2776-601 Carcavelos

Tel. 214585300

Email: pr@stjulians.com