LusoInfo nº2

LUSO INFO

December / January 2011 nยบ2

The Inside Guide to Life in Portugal

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Learn Portuguese in Cascais, Birre/Bicuda •Regular and intensive, one-on-one lessons.

•Pragmatic, direct method.

•All levels •Literary reading and other specific courses •Portuguese culture overview •NEW: Portuguese by Appointment •1, 2 or 3 hour-sessions.

Delfina Teixeira Tamulonis Univ. of Lisbon Graduate Germanic Languages and Humanities Tel: 214 827 052 / 964 326 120 E-mail: delfina.v.t@gmail.com www.learninportugal.com

Learn and practice Portuguese with:

A Practical Guide to Colloquial Portuguese Direct, pragmatic, self-study approach.

The Portuguese Who Are We And Where Are We Now? Booklet, 35 pages Price: €4.00 Send this postcard of Portuguese history and culture to family and friends everywhere around the Globe.

Vol. 1 Conversando A4 Book, 232 pages Price: €8,90

Vol. 2 Debate A4 Book, 319 pages Price: €9,90

For further information or / and to order call: +(351) 214 827 052 +(352) 964 326 120

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E-­‐mail: delfina.v.t@gmail.com LusoInfo

www.learninportugal.com

LUSO INFO The Inside Guide to Life in Portugal FADO: MADE IN PORTUGAL

IN THIS ISSUE December 2011 / January 2012 nº2

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WELCOME TO LUSOINFO

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FRIDA KHALO TOUR

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EVENTS GUIDE

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HEALTHY LIVING

Whether you love it or hate, no one is indifferent to Fado. The sounds of soul spilling melodies are intensely miserable, uniquely inspirational, powerful and patriotic and have mesmerized and desensitized generations for years.

Now, considered World Intangible Cultural Heritage, Fado has earned worldwide recognition and with this honor, gained a national respect as an important part of Portuguese heritage to be celebrated.

PORTUGAL’S GLOBAL GASTRONOMIC ICON Salted and dried cod is common in southern European countries, such as Spain, France and Italy, but it is in Portugal that it lives up to its Prince of the Seas historic status. In fact, Portugal is the biggest fish consumer per capita in Europe and cod takes center stage. An all year round favorite, it is no rival to its more modest southern Atlantic prolific yet seasonal cousin, the sardine.

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NATIONAL NEWS

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INTERNATIONAL COMMUNITY

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PORTUGUESE FESTIVITIES

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FADO: MADE IN PORTUGAL

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PORTUGAL’S GLOBAL GASTRONOMICAL ICON

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RIBATEJO: “HEARTLAND”

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REGIONAL WINE: RIBATEJO

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HOLIDAY RECIPES

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VAMOS APRENDER (LET’S LEARN)

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USEFUL CONTACTS

RIBATEJO: “HEARTLAND” The Ribatejo region is characterized by a strong agricultural influence which is revealed through many traditions and customs practiced here. Deep cultural and historical roots make Ribatejo unique and easily identifiable. The bold flag colored costume of the “campino”, Portuguese cowboy, and the majestic stance of the Lusitano horse are the mascots of this region.

RIBATEJO

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LusoInfo Editor: Sara Tamulonis Contributors: Delfina Teixeira, Pat Westheimer Printed by Grafitala, Lda. 1000 copies Distribution; Cascais,Lisbon, Sintra LusoInfo does not necessarily endorse services listed in this publication.

Cover photos: Ribatejo Region.

www.lusoinfo.org

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Wishing you a Happy Holiday Season and a Prosperous 2012!

Welcome to LusoInfo!

The holiday season is at it’s peak and the familiar buzz that happens year after year is filling hearts with holiday cheer and emptying wallets bringing New Year fear!

In this double issue LusoInfo celebrates the old time tradition of Portugal’s unique musical genre, Fado, which has received recognition as UNESCO’s World Intangible Heritage.

In the feature article, find out how bacalhau (salted codfish) became Portugal’s Global Gastronomical Icon and why the Portuguese are so fond of this fish.

Ribatejo, considered the “Heart of Portugal” is the geographical region highlighted in this issue. Learn about its customs, history and traditions which have deep cultural and historical roots.

LusoInfo Subscriptions 2012 (12 issues per year) Check One

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Individual (1 copy per issue)

€25 + (6%IVA)

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Business, Association or Institution ( 5 copies per issue)

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*Businesses who advertise receive complimentary copies depending on the ad size. *Prices listed are yearly fees.

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Please fill in, detach and send.

Name: _____________________________________________ Mailing address: _____________________________________ ___________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________

€100 + (6%IVA)

Methods of Payment: Cash Checks payable to: Sara Tamulonis Marques Mailing Address: Rua 29 de Novembro, 346 A Madorna, 2785 - 417 S.D.Rana Bank Transfers NIB: 0007 0337 00015650004 40 *If transferring please send in a proof of payment together with the subscription card.

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You’re Invited LusoInfo will be hosting a traditional Portuguese breakfast in an informal setting in Cascais, on Friday, January 20, 2012 at 10:30 am for the celebration of the official launch of

LusoInfo - The Inside Guide to Life in Portugal.

Following a delicious assortment of Portuguese savories and treats there will be a presentation of LusoInfo and an introductory talk by Delfina Tamulonis, on “The Portuguese: Who Are We and Where Are We Now.” If you would like o attend the please confirm your presence by January 18th to events@lusoinfo.org or call 214 532 101 / 967 208 776

Editor’s Diary

December 2011/ January 2012

TIME One day past, another year gone, the hours, the minutes, the seconds seem long.

In a blink, in a breath a wish never said a sudden relief hides the moment of dread.

Another year here with seconds to spare days to be lived and minutes to share.

-Margaret Purchase

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F r i d a

 K h a l o : H e r

 P h o t o s

 T o u r Frida  Kahlo,  acclaimed  Mexican  artist,  was  born  in  Mexico  City  and  became  an  emblematic  figure  in  Mexican  culture  due  to  her  turbulent  life  portrayed  through  her  colorful  and  exotic  paintings.  At  the  age  of  six,  Frida  developed  polio,  which  caused  her  right  leg  to  appear  much  thinner  than  the  other  and  it  was  the  first  of  many  traumatic  health  issues  she  battled.   During  her  teenage  years,  Frida  suffered  severe  injuries  from  a  bus  collision  with  a  trolley  which  left  her  in  a  body  cast  for  three  months.  Although  she  regained  her  ability  to  walk,  the  injuries  left  her  with  many  painful  relapses  throughout  her  life.  These  themes  are  depicted  in  her  art,  many  of  which  are  self-­�portraits.  Kahlo  stated,  "I  paint  myself  because  I  am  so  often  alone  and  because  I  am  the  subject  I  know  best."  Of  her  143  paintings,  55  are  self-­� portraits  which  often  incorporate  symbolic  portrayals  of  physical  and  psychological  wounds.  She  insisted,  "I’ve  never  painted  dreams.  I  paint  my  own  reality."  Kahlo  was  also  influenced  by  indigenous  Mexican  culture,  which  is  apparent  in  her  use  of  bright  colors,  dramatic  symbolism  and  primitive  style.  Frida  Kahlo  died  on  July  13,  1954,  shortly  after  turning  47.  The  official  cause  of  death  was  given  as  a  pulmonary  embolism,  although  some  suspected  that  she  died  from  an  overdose  that  may  or  may  not  have  been  accidental.  However,  she  had  been  very  ill  throughout  the  previous  year  and  her  right  leg  had  been  amputated  at  the  knee  which  later  developed  gangrene.  Frida  lived  a  stormy  marriage  with  famous  Mexican  painter  Diego  Riviera  and  in  his  autobiography  he  wrote  that  the  day  Kahlo  died  was  the  most  tragic  day  of  his  life,  adding  that  he  had  realized  too  late  that  the  most  wonderful  part  of  his  life  had  been  his  love  for  her.  In  the  early  1980,  decades  after  her  death,  Frida’s  work  gained  worldwide  recognition  through  a  Mexican  movement  known  as  neomexacanismo.  Her  life  and  legacy  were  also  published  in  Hayden  Herrera’s  influential  biography,  Frida:  The  Biography  of  Frida  Kahlo,  which  became  a  worldwide  bestseller  and  later  inspired  the  movie  Frida  directed  by  Julie  Taymor.

Frida  Khalo: Her  Photos  Tour

Catherine Porta l

•Regu l ar Workshops • Open DaysNext one: 19th & 20th Nov 11. • Presents, Commissions

cathy@catherineportalceramics.com www.catherineportalceramics.com 6

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The  Lisbon  City  Museum  presents,  for  the  first  time  outside  Mexico,  photographs  of  the  painter  Frida  Kahlo.  The  exhibition  “Frida  Kahlo:  her  photosâ€?  is  an  initiative  of  the  Casa  da  AmĂŠrica  Latina  (the  House  of  Latin  America  in  Lisbon),  consisting  of  images  from  the  archive  of  the  Frida  Kahlo  Museum.   Lisbon  is  privileged  to  be  the  first  city  to  receive  this  international  exhibition  of  photographs  that  the  artist  produced  during  her  lifetime.    A  selection  of  257  photos  are  on  display  at  the  PavilhĂŁo  Preto  of  the  Lisbon  City  Museum.  Join  LusoInfo  at  the  Lisbon  City  Museum  for  a  tour  of  Frida  Khalo:  Her  Photos  exposition  on  Friday,  January  27,  2012.   For  more  information  and  bookings  e-­â€?mail  events@lusoinfo.org. Â

events guide MUSIC THEATER MUSIC FADO IN CHIADO Every Mon.-Saturday 21:00 Two voices, one male, one female accompanied by viola and guitar.

Cine Theatro Gymnásio Rua da Misericórdia, 12.

961 717 778.

TIVOLI PERFORMANCES December 2011 Swan Lake, Nutcracker, Russian Army Dancers, Johann Strauss Grand Gala Teatro Tivoli, Lisbon Tickets at FNAC, El Corte Inglês or www.ticketline.pt/ http://www.teatro-tivoli.com ALEGRIA CIRQUE DU SOLEIL Dec. 21, 2011 - Jan. 8, 2012 Pavilhão Atlântico www.cirquedusoleil.com RIHANNA - LOUD TOUR Dec. 21, 2011 19:30 Pavilhão Atlântico 21 891 8409 http://www.pavilhaoatlantico.pt CHRISTMAS ORATÓRIO Christmas Concert by Divino Sospiro Belem Cultural Center 213 612 400 CASCAIS & OEIRAS CÂMARA ORCHESTRA Christmas Concert December 16, 2011 With Director Nikolay Lalov, accompanied by the Almada Polifinico Choir.

Auditório dos Salesianos do Estoril, Cascais. 21:30.

214 858 240 ROMEO & JULIET BALLET December 10 - 22, 2011 Choreography by John Cranco and music with the Portuguese Symphony Orchestra.

Teatro Nacional de São Carlos 213 253 000 geral@saocarlos.pt

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PORTUGUESE CHAMBER ORCHESTRA (Various dates) 9:00 PM The Portuguese Chamber Orchestra performs at Lisbon's Belém Cultural Centre as part of the Mozart's Spirit Cycle.

213 612 400 MUSIDANÇAS FESTIVAL Nov. - December 2011 Lisbon's Musidanças Festival presents musicians and singers from Lusophone Portugal, Angola, Brazil, Mozambique, Cabo Verde, São Tomé, Guinea and Timor.

Concerts take place at Musicbox Lisboa as well as Tambor que Fala in Seixal. www.musidancas.com tocarufar@tocarufar.com GREAT ORCHESTRAS OF THE WORLD Nov. 2011 - Apr. 2012 Featuring various internationally renowned conductors and soloists, the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation presents its Great Orchestras of the World series in Lisbon's Coliseu dos Recreios.

ART OUTDOOR SCULPTURE EXHIBITION Present - June 10, 2012 Sintra the capital of romanticism is hosting the largest exhibition of outdoor sculpture entitled Sintra Public Art VIII, organized by Sintra Municipality and the International Sculpture Center sixteen Sculptors are participating both Portuguese and International artists.

LISBON ZOO December 19 - 30 2011 During the Christmas Holidays, Lisbon Zoo invites you to learn more about the World of Animal’s in a special leisurely program for children of all ages.

DANCE

"SANTAS" Present - January 30, 2012 Paulo Neves was born in northern Portugal and is an international sculptor. An exhibition at Galeria Valbom, Av. Conde Valbom, 89A Lisbon. Mon to Sat 13:00 - 19:30 geral@galeriavalbom.com.

ROYAL PAINTING The Sea, Fine Art by King D. Carlos I. The exhibition looks into the artistic side of the monarch with a joint exhibit of sea themed watercolors at King D. Carlos I Maritime Museum.

214 865 836.

LIVING SCIENCE CENTER Fa c t s a b o u t D N A a n d o t h e r interesting scientific subjects at the Centro de Ciência Viva, Antiga Garagem dos Carros Eléctricos 219 247 730.

ART AND ANTIQUES FAIR Jan - Feb 2012 (annual) Around 80 art collectors and antique dealers gather to sell their valuable goods. The fair attracts approximately 10,000 people who are looking to buy unique pieces, from religious artifacts to ornate silver plates.

Lisbon Congress Center (Centro de Congressos de Lisboa).

IN THE PRESENCE OF THINGS. Four Centuries of European Still Life Painting Oct. 21 - Jan. 1, 2012 The second part of the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum's Four Centuries of European Still-life Painting series focuses on fundamental changes in the late 19th and first half of the 20th century. At the center is Claude Monet's Still Life with Melon. info@gulbenkian.pt 217 823 000

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what's on when SPORT CULTURE MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY ART Oct.1 - Jan. 30, 2012 Museu do Combatente no Forte do Bom Sucesso 213 017 225 THE POWER OF COLOR Oct.1 - Jan. 30, 2012 Museu do Combatente no Forte do Bom Sucesso 213 017 225 A HANDFUL OF COLOR Sept. 22 - Dec. 31, 2011 Sao Roque - Antiques and Art Gallery 213 960 733 “LE CARNET DE LA CALIFORNIE” Present - January 8, 2012 An exhibition made up of 39 graphic works by Pablo Picasso are on display at the Cascais Cultural Center.

The graphic artwork reflects the various techniques Picasso used during time spent in Cannes with his wife, Jacqueline Roque from 1955 to 1960 at their mansion La Californie.

WINTER FESTIVAL Jan 2012 (annual) Lisbon's Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation hosts a Winter Festival of art and music. Entertainment includes Arabic songs, Berlin cabaret and a rarely heard opera

by Janácek. A sophisticated multimedia equipment also allows spectators to experience what it's like to be among a symphony orchestra.The Gulbenkian Orchestra and Choir both feature in the program along with guest orchestras and soloists.

SPORT LISBON BOAT AND ADVENTURE SHOW February 8 - 12, 2012 (annual) Feira Internacional de Lisboa Lisbon's International Exhibition Center, FIL, hosts the Lisbon Boat

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TOURS EXHIBITS

and Adventure Sports Show, Nauticampo, a double event showcasing the latest products.

One section is dedicated to yachts, the other focuses on everything from motor sports to martial arts.

The Sports Show area covers a wide range of activities, including motocross and leisure biking, diving and gliding, weightlifting, keep-fit, racket sports, climbing, canoeing, skateboarding and much more. There's also a program of seminars, displays and entertainment.

218 921 500 www.nauticampo.fil.pt

THEATER CEGARREGA 22 Oct. - Dec. 18, 2011 Trinity Theater THE CICADA AND THE ANT: THE MUSICAL Oct 2 - Dec. 31, 2011 Academy of St. Amaro 213 636 637 THE ISLE OF PARADISE Sept.17 - Dec. 24, 2011 Theatre Bocage 214 788 120

TOURS Galharda of the Gavotte in the Court of D. Manuel I Present - Dec. 18 2011 Castelo São Jorge 218 800 620 ROYAL VEHICLES 17TH-19TH CENTURY Present - Dec. 30 2012 Museu Nacional dos Coches 213 610 850 COSTUMES OF THE 19TH CENTURY Present - Dec.30 2011 TRAVEL AND SCIENCE. Mission in the Tropics 1883-2010 Present - Dec. 30 2011

Tropical Botanical Garden 213 637 023

EXHIBITIONS BEHIND THE SCENES OF ANIMATION The Marionette Museum presents two exhibitions relating to animation. Also exhibits of marionettes, drawings and sketches. Marionette Museum, Bernardas Convent, Rua da Esperaca No. 146 (Santos).

DESIGNER WEAR EXHIBITION Present - January 30, 2012 One of Portugal's top fashion designers, Tenente, has selected 30 outfits by some of the world's top designers including Christian Lacroix, Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen, plus others.

MUDE - Design and Fashion Museum, Rua Augusta 24, 1100-053 Lisbon. Free admission.

218 886 117 mude@cm-lisboa.pt VIK MUNIZ RETROSPECTIVE Present - December 31,2011 The image of Mona Lisa made of peanut butter and jelly, portrait of E l i z a b e t h Ta y l o r m a d e f r o m diamonds, Frankenstein from caviar are among the thoughtprovoking exhibits.

Berardo Museum Entrance free.

213 612 878 museuberardo@museuberardo.pt.

ARCA DA NOÉ (NOAH’S ARK) Present - February 12, 2012 This exhibition represents works by thirty-three artists and looks at the magic and mysteries of the animal world. CAMB - Centro de Arte Manuel de Brito (Alges), Palacio Anjos, Alameda Hermano Patrone, Oeiras. 214 111 400. ccb@ccb.pt

events guide MUSIC THEATER STREET ART - ALMADA Present - February 8, 2012 A presentation of photography that witnesses the intensity and diversity of artistic activity on the streets. Fnac Almada 214 699 000.almada@fnac.pt.

THE WORLD OF DINOSAURS Oct 24, 2011 - Jan 1, 2012 The World of Dinosaurs comes to Lisbon's Cordoaria Nacional exhibiting the habitat and evolution of dinosaurs.

Fábrica Nacional da Cordoaria 213 637 635 FRIDA KHALO HER PHOTOGRAPHS Nov. 4, 2011 - Jan. 29, 2012 Lisbon's Casa de America Latina brings 257 photographs from the personal collection of Mexican artist Frida Kahlo to the Pavilhão Preto at the City Museum.

Lisbon City Museum 217 513 200 http://www.museudacidade.pt ESTÁDIO DA LUZ VISIT & EXHIBITION Sept.12 - Dec.31, 2011 Football fans can visit Benfica's home ground, Estádio da Luz, during the day time. Visitors can see where Lisbon's main team trains, walk around the stadium as well as sampling food in the celebrated Catedral da Cerveja restaurant.www.slbenfica.pt 217 266 129 WHAT MAKES A GREAT WRITER Oct.13 - Dec.31, 2011 Museum of Electricity 210 028 190 Oscar Cardoso - Guitarreiro Sept. 27 - Dec. 30, 2011 Fado Museum 218 823 470 L’ HÔTEL GULBENKIAN, 51 avenue d’Iéna. Memory of the Place Oct. 21 - Jan. 22, 2012

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An exhibition which provides a window onto the Paris home of Calouste Sarkis Gulbenkian. A businessman and art collector, founder of Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation in Portugal.

217 823 000 MICRO SAFARI Exhibition of Live Animals Oct.1 - Dec. 30, 2011 The show brings together more than 100 species, some rare and e xo t i c r e p t i l e s , a m p h i b i a n s , insects, arachnids, gastropods and crustaceans from five continents.

Museu do Combatente no Forte do Bom Sucesso 213 017 225 APPEARANCES - The Photography of Gerard Castello-Lopes 1956-2006 Sept.23 - Apr.1 2012 BES Art & Finance 218 839 000 SEA TURTLES: THE JOURNEY Apr.7 - Apr.1, 2013 Lisbon Oceanarium 218 917 002 THE ADVENTURE OF THE EARTH: EVOLVING PLANET Present - Dec.30, 2011 National Museum of Natural History 213 921 800 TOY CHEST OF SECRETS, SURPRIZES, DREAMS, TOYS...

Present - Dec. 31, 2011 Antique and Modern toys such as Barbie, Nancy, Tucha, Action Man, Playmobile and other classics.

Toy Museum - Sintra 219 242 171 www.museu-do-brinquedo.pt “MISS LUPITA” Present - January 2012

By Carolina Esparragoza.

Exhibition of traditional Mexican paper dolls.

Toy Museum-Sintra 219 242 171 www.museu-do-brinquedo.pt

DANCE

DEATH BY DESIGN: LIVE DESIGN! The object of reflection 1980-2000 Oct 1 - Jan. 15 2012 CHANGE - Museum of Design and Fashion 218 886 117 INTROSPECTIVE Philip Alarcão Sept. 24 - Jan. 15 2012 Museum of Design and Fashion 218 886 117

CULTURE FESTA DE FOGACEIRAS Jan 2012 (annual) Santa Maria da Feira boasts one of the prettiest castles in Portugal and plays host to the Festa das Fogaceiras. On this day young people dressed in white and carry bread and cakes on their heads in decorated baskets. The Festa das Fogaceiras is celebrated to fulfill a vow made by St.Sebastian in the 16th century during an epidemic, The Saint is invoked to ward off and help cure infectious diseases.

So if you're not feeling too well, bread hats (fogaças) can be help cure the winter blues!

Planning an event?

Let us know about it... e-mail mail@lusoinfo.org

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Top Tips to Avoid Winter Flu

1. RELAX

Germs are everywhere so even if wash your hands 20 times a day, avoid anyone with red eyes, a drippy nose or barking cough your chances of getting sick are still high.

After all it’s flu season! The trick to staying healthy is strengthening your immune system to fight against the winter bugs that make way into your system eventually. Here are five easy steps to boost your body's defenses during cold-­‐and-­‐flu season.

Reduce the stress hormone cortisol, which destroys immune cells, by treating yourself to a relaxing massage. According to a study by the Touch Research Institute at the University of Miami Medical School "massage also ups your stores of natural killer cells — the immune system's front line of defense," says Tiffany Field, Ph.D., director of the Institute. It only takes a 20-­‐minute weekly massage to gear up those cells, so seek a rubdown from your partner and it could lead to a double dose of immunity according to Step 2!

2. SNUGGLE UP According to one study, people who have sex once or twice a week have 30 percent higher levels of antibody immunoglobulin A (IgA) than those who have sex less often. Sex also releases stimulating chemicals called opioid peptides, which arouse the immune system.

3. LAUGH OUT LOUD Laughter releases feel good endorphins, that trigger immune cells to fight sad cells from reproducing. Some studies show that children find something to laugh about 300 times a day, while adults laugh only 17 times.

So follow your little ones lead and you’ll find yourself feeling healthier!

4. DANCING Most forms of exercise enhance the immune system but doing a mind-­‐ body workout like dancing reduces stress levels and raises endorphins.

According to a study from Wilkes University, listening to popular music showed a 28 percent rise in levels of the antibody immunoglobulin A (IgA) that helps destroy viruses that enter the body.

5. VITAL VITAMINS Vitamin C helps you get over a cold faster but vitamin E is also vital in flu prevention. Vitamin E helps make white blood cells more efficient when fighting off infection. You need 65 to 75 mg of vitamin C daily, but if you feel a cold coming on, get up to 1,000 mg by taking a vitamin or eating natural sources like berries, peppers, and citrus fruits. You'll get the 100 to 200 mg you need by eating almonds, peanut butter, and sunflower seeds, which are all good sources of vitamin E.

FLU FIGHTING FOODS Here are examples of germ-­‐fighting foods: Green tea: Antioxidants found in green tea help heal infections.

Dark chocolate: The antioxidants in cocoa keep immune cells working.

Shiitake mushrooms: Lentinan, a carbohydrate found in these tasty mushrooms, help boost cells' response to infection.

Greens: They're loaded with zinc, which helps white blood cells function.

Garlic: Using garlic regularly can prevent or reduce the severity of common infections.

Apples: Their antioxidants help prevent colds.

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Confessions of an Ocean Swimmer

By Pat Westheimer Last winter I suffered three colds, two ear infections and a rough cough that drove my friends away. This year I decided to do winter differently. I shunned the annual fly shot ( that two of my doctors admitted they don’t get either). I started drinking a large glass of orange juice every morning (my friend Vikky swears buy this remedy for a flu-free winter) and most radical of all, I decided to swim in the ocean as often as the weather and waves allow.

My impetus for this eccentric behavior came when my golf teacher, Gordon, told me that he didn’t have even a sniffle last year. Some of us who know and love Gordon would admit that he has some health habits to question. His secret: he swam in the ocean almost every morning.

Ocean swimming is not new for me. When I lived in San Diego I trained to become a competitive, year round ocean swimmer. Day and night a group of us swam the buoys and even made night time swims from La Jolla Cove to The Shores, round trip, almost an hour. Once I had to be rescued in high waves, but I never experienced hypothermia, excessive fatigue and never had any colds either.

That was 20 years ago, but the thrill of entering winter water remains. My favorite beach is Praia de Conceiçao, beneath the Hotel Albatroz in Cascais.

Before I enter the water, I trick my mind into thinking it is searing hot. Then I plunge in after 5 minutes of walking waist high. I swim, parallel to the shore anywhere from 5-10 minutes depending on winter water temperature.

Of course in the summer I swim for much longer.

Most days, I'm alone on the afternoon beach both before and after my swim. Walking home I feel my body thaw and sometimes forgo a warm shower or even a steaming cup of hot tea. I’m filled with renewed energy, infused with creative ideas and full of courage to fulfill some of my more exotic goals.

My mentor, Walter, an 80-year old Mexican Olympic swimmer, told me that it’s best to let the body warm up naturally, even hugging a warm wall if one is nearby. Want to join me in the ocean?

Email: patwestheimer@gmail.com

Offering the best in primary education to the international and local communities.

IPS is a school that prides itself on the warmth of its welcome to the children and parents from around the world.

The multi-national community represented at IPS by pupils and their families as well as staff, helps to create a learning environment which fosters a global understanding and appreciation of each other and the variety of cultures we bring to the school daily.

We are proud of the high academic standards attained by our children and encourage them to achieve their best in all aspects of the curriculum. Further than this, though, we also promote the value of caring, self discipline, respect, humour, a love of learning and a sense of discovery, which are all so important to the adults of the future who will soon be moulding our world.

This then comes as a warm welcome to IPS from all of our staff and students who are always eager to make you a part of a very special school community.

Cascaisshopping Sintra

Alcabideche

Makro

A Luta

Manique

Sintra AlcoitĂŁo Est. de Manique

Galp

Cascais

Bicesse

Qta. Patino Estoril

Alcabideche, Portugal Established in 1982 | English National Curriculum | Renowned for Academic Excellence | 250 children | 35 nationalities

Rua da Lagoa, 171 - Bicesse 2645-344 Alcabideche 4EL s %MAIL INFO IPSSCHOOL ORG s WWW IPSSCHOOL ORG LusoInfo

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National News Portugal, the most unequal economy in the Eurozone

Lisbon’s Católica and Nova Univerisities listed on FT Best European Business Schools.

In the Financial Times 2011 Best European Business Schools ranking, the schools of Business and Economics at Universidade Católica and Universidade Nova made the list at 33rd and 39th place.

In the space of a year, Católica’s Business School leaped from 62nd place to 33rd and Universidade Nova from 73rd to 39th. Both institutions made an impressive leap which have landed them both on a prestigious shortlist of 40, ahead of universities like Cambridge.

Espresso Anyone?

El País, blogger Paco Nadal reports that there only two countries in the world where a perfect espresso is served, Portugal and naturally, Italy.

According to Nadal whether you’re in “a luxurious café in Lisbon’s Chiado or in a rural place in the middle of the Alentejo, coffee is served as it should be: in a narrow cup, with the right amount of froth, acidity, constrained bitterness, smelling like coffee and not like burnt roasted coffee”.

Unimpressed with his native Spain’s coffee he comments that Vienna, Venezuela and Greece are also places where one can also have a decent cup of coffee even though their coffee is different to the beloved espresso.

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According to a report released by the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development, OECD, Portugal is the most unequal economy of the eurozone and is also one of the worst in the developed world. The OECD reports that the gap between rich and poor in Portugal is at its highest in three decades. The wealthiest 20% earn over 6.1 times more than the poorest 20%. However, over the last two decades, the bottom 20% have seen an income increase by an annual average of 3.6%. The study conducted by the OECD concluded that financial transfers and the provision of public services such as healthcare and education, aid in reducing the gap between the rich and the poor by over 35%. Despite this, the report reveals a distinct conclusion, the richest 10% of the population earn up to nine times more than the poorest 10% in almost every Portuguese region.

TAP cancels second strike

Following the cancellation of a fourday strike scheduled for December 9-12, the Civil Aviation Pilots’ Union (SPAC) announced that the strike scheduled for January 3-6 has also been cancelled due to an agreement reached “regarding the fulfillment of the labor agreement and the reinstatement of a working environment respectful of the parity between pilots and the administration.”

Happy 103rd Birthday!

Manoel de Oliveira, the oldest active film director in the world, celebrated his 103rd birthday on December 11th.

His latest film is in the final stages of production and is based on a play by Portuguese writer Raul Brandão called “Gebo and the Shadow.” The Frenchlanguage film stars Italian actress Claudia Cardinale, French actress Jeanne Moreau, Portuguese actor Luís Miguel Cintra and Manoel de Oliveira’s own grandson, Ricardo Trêpa.

Over the past few decades, the Portuguese director has kept up a prolific international film career, directing an average of one film a year. His latest venture to reach cinemas worldwide, The Strange Case of Angelica, is considered the second best film of the year by French influential magazine Cahiers du Cinéma. Oliveira is set to start work on a new film called “Devil’s Church”, based on a short story by renowned 19th century Brazilian author Machado de Assis.

CR7 & The Special One Unstoppable!

Portuguese football champs, Cristiano Ronaldo and José Mourinho are among the finalists for the 2011 edition of the FIFA Ballon d’Or, the highest individual award for best player and best coach worldwide.

Both have already won the Ballon D’Or once, Ronaldo in 2008 as star striker for Manchester United and Mourinho last year when coaching Internazionale.

Notícia Nacional www.portugaldailyview.com

No more cuts...yet!

merging with the EU average of eightto-12 days per year of work.

Last September, the government cut the compensation by one-third to 20 days’ wages per year of work from the previous 30 days.

Lisbon, Stop and Shop The readers of Lonely Planet travel guide honors Lisbon with second place in the top 10 must-visit cities in 2012. The Portuguese capital won 15% of the vote, outshining cities such as Barcelona, London and Berlin. The winning city was Reykjavik, in Iceland, with 27% of the vote.

Reasons for Lisbon’s high ranking among readers was due to the contrasting qualities that appeals to everyone.

In addition journalist Audrey Gillan of The Guardian, considers Lisbon to be one of the best cities for shopping.

The journalist describes that “behind the many exquisite, sometimes belle époque facades,” many of Lisbon’s traditional goods shops have been kept alive for decades and are now considered retro and trendy. Places such as well-known shop A Vida Portuguesa, located in Lisbon’s Chiado district, sell an array of old products, from soaps by Claus Porto which come in art deco boxes and have already been made a favorite by mega media mogul Oprah Winfrey.

Lisbon is littered with quaint and traditional boutiques that sell items such as retro sardine tins, Couto toothpaste and petroleum jelly in bright orange and black boxes, among many others. The numerous quirky shops provide unique gift ideas for this holiday season and are a perfect setting for a cultural Christmas shopping experience.

World Heritage at risk Portuguese Minister of Finance Vítor Gaspar said that currently there will be no new austerity measures needed to be able meet the deficit target. Gaspar reported in parliament “At this time, the calculations we have suggest that there’s no need for additional austerity measures.”

He also stated that the deficit would shrink this year to about 4%, significantly less than the 5.9% agreed under the financial rescue deal.

Gaspar relayed that the 2011 deficit would have topped 8% if not for the pension transfers, increasing IVA on electricity and on natural gas, and a 50% deduction on Christmas bonuses for public employees.

Also speaking to the committee, Deputy Secretary of State Carlos Moedas confirmed media reports that the government would consider further cuts for layoff compensations to meet the bailout commitment and

The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) announced it may consider withdrawing World Heritage Site status for the Douro terraced vineyards if a new dam is built on the River Tua, Portuguese environmental group Quercus raised the issue of whether UNESCO World Heritage Site status is more important than a new dam.

Icomos heritage conservation experts visited the site in April and issued a report that underlined the serious negative affect a new dam would have on surrounding areas if the government failed to follow UNESCO recommendations.

International Hairdressers, Beautician and Manicurist

Open Monday - Saturday 9 am - 7 pm

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community international

organizations, associations, charities

American Club of Lisbon Primarily a business-oriented club, whose main objective is to enhance fellowship and understanding between the United States and Portugal. 213 529 308 americanclub@mail.telepac.pt www.americancluboflisbon.com

Americans in Portugal Americans in Portugal (AmP), founded in 1998, aims to to enhance the quality of life of expatriate Americans, their spouses, significant others living in the Lisbon area and to promote connections and serve the American, Portuguese and international communities. www.americansinportugal.org americansinportugal@gmail.com 214 862 266 / 919 863 927

British Council, Portugal The British Community Council, Lisbon, brings together English speaking people from many backgrounds to enjoy a wide variety of social, sporting and cultural events and helps support many charitable organizations. It offers opportunities to make new friends, discover new activities, explore Portugal and keep in touch with the English speaking community. www.britishcouncil.org/portugal.htm 213 214 500

The British Historical Society The British Historical Society of Portugal has about 250 members and has as its object to recover, preserve and collate much of the history of the British in Portugal, and to promote interest in the History of Anglo-Portuguese relations. www.bhsportugal.org 214 583 903

British Retirement Home Association Established in 1980 to create and maintain residential accommodation for elderly people of British and other nationalities. The Quinta da Fonte home has English speaking staff and nurses. 214 688 694 brhportugal@gmail.com

Charity Bridge Association http://bcclisbon.org/members/show/

The Cheshire Home (Lar da Boa Vontade) Since 1985 - the Home which is registered as a The Chesire Home is a nonprofit making private institution. Fundraising activities aid in running, including a monthly sale run by the residents of secondhand clothes and general jumble donated by the local community, residents' contributions according to

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their pensions; annual legacies, assistance from WRVS, Lions, Trash and Treasure, Charity Bridge Association, and other members of the British Community Council. 214 572 696

English Freemasons A society of men concerned with moral and spiritual values, seeking to reinforce thoughtfulness for others, kindness in the community, honesty in business, courtesy in society and fairness in all things. www.freemasonryinportugal.com!

282 471 450

The English Speaking Union of Portugal The English Speaking Union of Portugal (ESU) brings together and empowers people of different languages and cultures. By building skills and confidence in communication, ESU’s vision is to provide people in the UK and internationally with communication skills, confidence and networking opportunities. www.esu.org/portugal 213 905 428

International Ladies of Caldas da Rainha International Ladies of Caldas Da Rainha, a social, nonprofit club for women of all nationalities. Established in 1994, the club's focus is on enriching women's lives, whilst living in Portugal. Come along and join us at our Monday Coffee Club on the first and third Monday, every month 3.00 - 4.30pm.

Meet new friends and catch up with your old ones! nt.ladiescaldas@hotmail.co.uk www.international-caldas.eu

International Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and !

Transgender Association Portugal Organization working to improve living conditions, integration and interaction of the gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender population within society. Helpline and counseling available. http://www.ilga-portugal.pt/ilga/index.php centro@ilga-portugal.pt!

218 873 918 / 969 367 005

International Women in Portugal IWP organizes a variety of events for women of all nationalities to meet up and share interests. Regular coffee mornings and luncheons as well as excursions, fundraising and social events. www.iwponline.org! office@iwponline.org 915 552 847

The Irish Association Established 11 years ago, the Association’s objective ‘to bring Irish cultural events to Portugal’ has been well and truly met.

Events have featured all aspects of Irish culture from music and dance to literature and film, from thought-provoking lectures to fun and frivolity at our regular St. Patrick’s Day celebrations.! irishassociation@gmail.com

community international

organizations, associations, charities

Lisbonne Accueil Objectifs de l'association Lisbonne Accueil: Accueil des nouveaux arrivants. Ouvrir l'association au monde francophone (toutes nationalités) Renforcer les liens entre la communauté française et portugaise. Créer des liens avec le monde de l'entreprise Proposition d’activités dans la journée, le soir et le week-end.

213 111 459 http://www.lisbonneaccueil.org

The Lisbon Casuals Sports Club The Lisbon Casuals is a friendly, relaxed sports & social club ideal for all the family.

Members include a multicultural membership and offer a wide range of international sports such as Football, American Football, Hockey, Touch-Rugby & Cricket, Badminton. www.lisboncasuals.com 214 576 684

Lisbon Hash House Harriers (LH3) Meet at 2.30pm on alternate Saturdays, behind the Estoril Casino. A family Hash - both adults and accompanied children are welcome. If you enjoy walking, jogging or running then join the Hash. 919 666 202 / 214 671 396

Riding for the Disabled The Associação Hípica Terapeutica de Cascais is a nonprofit association providing therapeutic riding and sport adapted riding for people with a variety of dysfunctions and disabilities.

Sessions take place at Rua da Areia, Guincho, 2750-053 Cascais. 962 337 668

The Royal British Club The Club is a private members' club, with an international membership, serving the social needs of its members within Portugal and abroad. Events are held at hotels and restaurants, including some very successful Charity Summer Balls and Gala Dinners. www.royalbritishclub.pt 214 681 712

The Royal British Legion, Portugal Branch The Royal British Legion is the UK's leading Armed Forces charity and one of its largest membership organisations.

Members get together through the network of branches and clubs all over the country and overseas to participate in social, fundraising and welfare activities. www.britishlegion.org.uk/branches/portugal

The Royal Society of St. George The Lisbon Players Amateur English-language theatre group open to people of all nationalities with an interest in drama and theatre skills.

Regular productions of plays and musicals. New members welcome for acting and production roles. www.lisbonplayers.com.pt 213 961 946

Portugal Friends Portugal Friends has developed from a need for people, mostly foreigners or Portuguese people who speak English or have lived in other countries, to share their common ideas and interests and enjoy good company. Most people who are not natively Portuguese have come here to benefit from a better quality of life, and weather and enjoy the unique Portuguese hospitality, culture and beautiful country. www.portugalfriends.com

Portugal Iberlant NATO Golf Society (PINGS) PINGS is based at Quinta da Beloura with a membership of approximately 90 people both from within NATO and the civilian community in the Lisbon area. Matches are played twice monthly, a Medal at Beloura and one Away Day at another course. Please contact info@pings.com.pt should you have any questions.

The Royal Society of St. George Lisbon Branch was founded in 1962 to further English interests by spreading knowledge of English History, traditions and ideals. The Society celebrates English traditional holidays such as St. George's Day and Trafalgar Day. www.royalsocietyofstgeorge.com/portugal.html 214 871 303

Scottish Country Dancing Scottish country dancing club for all levels of ability performing a variety of dances at each session. Meetings take place on Thursdays at 8:00 PM. 214 840 628 / 214 180 148 www.lisboncasuals.com

Silver Coast Friends Silvercoast Friends was set up over two years ago by a number of young (or young-at-heart) dynamic and multitalented women who decided that they were definitely NOT in Portugal to retire! The ages of the women who get together for a two-hour coffee-break twice a month are between 23 and 70. We are very happy to welcome young and old-just bring along your generosity of spirit, enthusiasm and energy. silvercoastfriends@yahoo.co.uk http://searchonsilvercoast.co.uk/friends

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community international

organizations, associations, charities South Africans in Portugal Helping South African ex-pats reach out and connect. Creating contacts, meeting fellow South African ex-pats, obtaining advice from others who have walked in the same shoes or simply sharing experiences to help beat homesickness effectively. http://www.southafricansinportugal.com info@southafricansinportugal.com!

910 838 115 Upcoming Events: South Africans in Portugal and Portugal Friends When: First Thursday of every month Location: Palm Tree International Pub and Restaurant Largo Luís de Camões 46 Cascais, Lisboa 7:00 pm - 10:00 PM

St. Andrew's Society The St. Andrew's Society of Lisbon was founded in 1934, making it one of the longest-established societies in Portugal.

It is a nonprofit making organization whose aims and objectives as stated in the Constitution are to promote, maintain and extend interest in Scotland and the Scottish Culture and heritage, to celebrate the anniversary of the Patron Saint of Scotland. http://www.standrewslisbon.org/ info@standrewslisbon.org

Trash & Treasure The shop is open on Monday, Wednesday and Friday from 10:30 to 12:30 and from 15:00 to 17:00 hrs. Items are accepted on a "Commission Sale" (30% of the selling price goes to charitable causes) and donations are always welcomed. As all profit goes to charity, new voluntary helpers are always very welcome, to dedicate time to a slot in helping in the shop. 214 573 419

The Women’s Royal Voluntary Service The WRVS in Lisbon is the only overseas branch of the organization and relies entirely on locally generated funding.

Has a membership of over a 100, all working on a voluntary basis. Help includes visiting elderly, shopping, knitting, collecting and distributing clothes and fund raising events for local charities. Volunteers are always welcome. wrvsportugal@gmail.com

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RELIGIOUS SERVICES Cascais International Christian Church English worship every Sunday at 10:30. This international evangelical fellowship also organizes midweek Bible studies, children's church and has a nursery.

Av de Sintra 1154, Cascais ! !

214 861 856 Irish Dominicans in Portugal Igreja da Sra. Dos Navegantes Catholic services in English. Mass each Saturday at 18:00, Sunday and Holy Day at 12:00. Confessions before or after Mass by appointment.

Rua dos Navegantes, 2750 Cascais. ! 214 673 771 Igreja do Corpo Santo: Catholic services in English, Mass each Sunday and Holy day at 11:00, confessions: before Mass or by appointment.

Largo do Corpo Santo, Lisbon!!

214 673 771 International Baptist Church of Lisbon English worship services at 11:30, with Reverend Joseph Momoh, in the facilities of the Terceira Igreja Evangelica Baptista de Lisboa, Rua Filipe Folque 36, 1050 Lisbon.

Ocean Christian Community International church serving the Linha de Cascais area.

Regular bible studies and Sunday worship at the Hotel Saboia, Rua Belmonte 1, Estoril! !

219 282 019 Riverside International Church Interdenominational church meetings in English every Sunday at 11:00. Creche, and children and youth ministries provided.

Meetings take place next to the Riviera Hotel at Praçeta Infante D Henrique 80, Quinta do Junqueiro, 2775-584 Carcavelos. ! ! !

214 836 590 St Andrew's Church of Scotland: Worship in English, every Sunday at 11:00, Sunday school and creche facilities available. Rua da Arriaga 13, 1200-608 Lisbon 218 043 410 ! www.standrews.com.pt St George's Church Service in English every Sunday at 11:30, Rua Sao Jorge, opposite the Jardim da Estrela. Enter through the British cemetery gate. ! ! !

214 692 303 Catholic Parish with Mass every Sunday and Holyday at 10:15. Confessions before or after Mass.

Rua do Murtal 368, 2765 Sao Pedro do Estoril 214 673 771 St Paul's Church Worship in English every Sunday at 9:30 am Av. Bombeiros Voluntários 58, Estoril! !

214 692 303 The Door Christian International Church meetings every Sunday at 10:30 and 19:00. Pastor Frank Escobar. Meetings take place at Cidade Desportiva, Praceta Carlos Capitulo, MassamaQueluz. ! ! !

214 673 386 / 919 086 683

Recipe for a Portuguese Christmas

Having spent many Christmases in Portugal, there are few misconceptions about Portuguese traditions and customs but there is one in particular that stands out. It is known and widely accepted that on Consoada, or Christmas Eve, the traditional Bacalhau Cozido (Boiled codfish) is lovingly served on a heap of Couve Portuguesa,(cabbage) with a mountain of potatoes submerged in a pool of olive oil. A true Portuguese household cannot due without it! It’s sacrilege not to have some form of bacalhau present at the Christmas table.

As the noise level rises and the clock ticks closer to midnight, hunger begins beating on the inside of your stomach so dried and salted fish starts to seem appetizing. Everyone awaits, fork in hand for the unveiling of the traditional platter of steaming codfish. Once it is laid before family members, the ohhing and ahhing is ceaseless especially among the older generation. The fact that the same dish was also dinner the day before yesterday is unimportant because on the night of Consoada, bacalhau cozido takes on a whole new meaning as the centerpiece of the Portuguese Christmas. While the elders dig in, the younger generation cling to their plates eagerly waiting for the tastier alternative dish, like roast leg of lamb, or seafood rice which are more popular with the fast food generation. Given the option, boiled bacalhau will not cross many lips on Christmas Eve, except for the elders who faithfully fulfill this duty.

On Christmas Day the left over bacalhau does serve a good purpose. The mountain of cabbage and potatoes transform into what is a more appealing dish despite the name Roupa Velha, which literally means old clothes. This rather unusual name was coined do to the frightening resemblance of raggedy clothing. Given the fact that there are thousands of ways to prepare the beloved national heritage, bacalhau, will always have a place on a Portuguese Christmas table even if it is just a symbol of culture and tradition.

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CHRISTMAS EVENTS Cascais Christmas Wonderland

December 7th -­‐ January 6th, 14:00. Free entrance The Estoril Casino Gardens host the first Christmas Fair that offers entertainment for all ages including an ice skating rink and snow slope. There are music performances daily and culinary workshops .

Óbidos Christmas Village December 8 -­‐ January 3, 2012. Visit the Christmas Market where you can find unique gift items. Take a ride on the magic Carrousel, or see Santa’s House and Toy workshop. Strap on those ice skates for a spin around the ice rink. Other activities include karting, the Christmas labyrinth and traditional seasonal games. A Fantastic event for the whole family!

Christmas Electric Tram December 2-­‐19. The Christmas Tram will again ride through the festive Lisbon streets. The tram leaves from Santo Amaro at 9:00 am and includes a visit to the Carris Museum, Transportation Museum.

Weekends opened to the general public. www.carris.pt

MOART -­‐ Arts & Crafts Fair December 8 -­‐ 11, 17 -­‐ 18 10:00-­‐18:00/21:00 at the Museum de Arte Popular.

During this Expo the best of Portuguese arts and crafts will be on display as well as regional produce, music by folklore groups, wine tasting and magustos. Come learn how to make a ceramic piece and enjoy a glass of wine with a slice of Alentejo bread slathered with Serra de Estrela soft cheese.

Christmas in Lisbon December 4-­‐22.

Christmas concerts will be held throughout the city.

Venues include: The church of São Nicolau, Nossa Senhora da Conceição Velha, Basílica da Estrela, Santo Agostinho, Graça, Sé de Lisboa, São Domingos and São Jorge cinema will open doors to afternnon and evening shows. Celebrate this time of year in a spiritual and musical atmosphere.

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New Year’s Celebrations

2012

Tejo River Cruise

The Estoril Casino welcomes 2012 with a supreme buffet dinner and live performances by famous Portuguese jazz/blues/rock singer Paulo Gonzo in Lounge D and in the Black and Silver Hall, Kid Creole and The Coconut take the stage. Other music acts include The Cadillacs, Gamalataki and Citizens.

Information & Reservations: +351 919 933 664 info@dlounge.net www.lounged-casinoestoril.com

21:00 - 5:00 am Boarding: Cais da Rocha Conde de Óbidos (Alcântara) Buffet Dinner, DJ, Dance Floor and Open Bar Reservations: reservas@cruzeirostejo.com 213 461 586 / 962 803 000 www.cruzeirostejo.com

New Year’s in Cacilhas Fireworks and Musical display with a majestic backdrop of the D. Fernando II and Glória Frigate across the Tejo in Cacilhas. Hosted by popular radio DJ’s of Antena 3.

Terreiro de Paço Praça do Comércio Join the largest street party in Lisbon’s city center.

Live Music, Fireworks... a guaranteed good time!

Lisbon Casino Reveillon 2011 - 2012 The Lisbon Casino hosts a free concert in the futuristic Arena Lounge to commemorate the New Year.

21:30 Voodoo Marmalade 23:30 Francisco Menezes (Stand Up Comedy) 00:30 The Gift 2:00 DJ Rui Murka & Pan Sorbe

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Vamos cantar as Janeiras?

As Janeiras Um Ano Novo entrou As Janeiras vamos cantar Pedindo a vossa bondade De quem nos queira ajudar.

As Janeiras (The Januaries) dates back to ancient Roman mythology.

January, the month of Janus, the God of beginnings and transitions, gates and doorways. He is represented as a god with two faces because he looks to the future and the past. The Romans relied on Janus for his protection and in the month of January they would pay homage to him in hopes that evil spirits would be banished from their homes at the start of a new year. This Roman tradition evolved into a Catholic practice and is now a form of festive caroling that occurs all over Portugal, mainly in rural settings in the North and Alentejo. Following Christmas and throughout January, groups gather together and perform simple melodies that are accompanied by guitar, accordion, piccolo and drums. Usually, there is one main singer who sings the verses while the group echoes the lyrics.

The joyful songs are a celebration of the birth of baby Jesus and pay tribute to Our Lady and Saint Joseph. They are also a recollection of events from the past year. Traditionally, leftovers from the Christmas Eve feast, Consoada are given in exchange for the serenade. However, in these modern times, chocolate and money have replaced the conventional chouriço, nuts, apples, and chestnuts. Nevertheless, a welcoming glass of wine after a caroling session is never refused! As a departing gift the carolers sing their well wishes for neighbors, friends and family in the new year. The unlucky homes who ignore the callings of the Janeiras can provoke a demonstration of musical insults but always in a playful, lighthearted way.

Part of the Janeiras celebration is the, Cantar dos Reis or Kings’ Song, that occurs on the eve of Kings’s Day. Groups of men, women and children take to the streets singing and dancing honoring the catholic observance of Epiphany, Kings’ day when gifts were offered to baby Jesus. Another tradition to mark this occasion is to eat Bolo de Rei, or “King’s Cake.” Even though Bolo de Rei is a center piece at the Portuguese Christmas table, this cake is specifically eaten on January 6th.

This sweetbread style cake is circle shaped to imitate a king’s crown and filled with raisins and a variety of nuts topped off with powdered sugar and crystallized dried fruits to represent lavish jewels. Traditionally, a plain bean was hidden in he cake and the person to stumble across it would have to bring the Bolo de Rei next year. Tiny gifts like metal pendants, jewelry or figurines were also concealed and it was a child’s delight to break apart the cake in search of all the hidden treasures but for practical health and safety reasons this tradition came to a sad end.

Bolo de Rei had been dethroned!

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Janeiras, lindas Janeiras Já desde os tempos d'aldeia Sois quais estrelas fagueiras Em noites de lua cheia.

Janeiras, lindas Janeiras, Senhores vimos cantar Boas Festas e alegria Vos queremos desejar.

Que todos os Mirenses Tenham muitas felicidades Presentes e ausentes De todas as idades.

Senhores não demoreis Que é muito frio o luar, Vinde-nos dar as Janeiras Que nós temos de caminhar.

Boas noites meus senhores Até p'ró ano que vem Alegria e paz em Deus E na Virgem, Sua Mãe.

Tudo isto existe, Tudo isto é triste, Tudo isto é fado…

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Fado: Made in Portugal Whether you love it or hate, no one is indifferent to Fado. The sounds of soul spilling melodies are intensely miserable, uniquely inspirational, powerful and patriotic and have either mesmerized or desensitized generations for years. Now, considered World Intangible Cultural Heritage, Fado has earned worldwide recognition and with this honor gained a new national respect as an important part of Portuguese heritage to be celebrated.

In 2009 former Lisbon Mayor, Pedro Santana Lopes proposed that Fado be considered as a candidate of UNESCO’s cultural heritage and on the 10th of July 2010, Lisbon submitted its official application. Renowned Fado singers Carlos do Carmo and Mariza, a leading contemporary performer and multiple award winner, were at the forefront of Portugal’s candidacy as ambassadors of Fado and of Portugal. Mariza said “perhaps we Portuguese may take greater pride in who we are, especially in the so very grey times we currently live in.” She also stated “people shall have a far greater desire to care for, understand and nourish (Fado) as they begin to understand that this is not some lesser culture, but rich and deep and able to be performed anywhere in the world,” the singer said.

Portugal’s national musical treasure was inducted into UNESCO’s World Intangible Cultural Heritage on November 27th 2011.

Over 80 nominations were considered during the 6th session of the Intergovernmental Committee for the Safeguarding of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Fado was one of the winning candidates together with the knowledge about jaguars held by the indigenous Yurupari people of Columbia, the Mariachi musical style from Mexico, the Nijemo Kolo dances of Dalmatia from Croatia, Tsiattista music and dance of Cyprus and the royal mounted horse parade of Moravia from the Czech Republic.

Although the word Fado derives from the Latin fatum, meaning fate or destiny, musical experts cannot agree on the origin of Fado. Some believe its wailing laments are a legacy left by the Moorish occupation. Others say it evolved out of an African dance from Brazil, Lundu, music of the slaves. Yet another theory suggests that the disheartened character of the music came from Portuguese seafarers who sang of home during their long voyages at sea. The instrumental, literary and lyrical roots of Fado can be traced back to the 16th century through the writings of Luís Vaz de Camões. Saudade, a difficult word that does not translate into other languages because it expresses a multitude of emotions such as loneliness, melancholy, longing, and loss. Saudade is heartbreak or a bittersweet nostalgia for people or events passed. These complex emotions embody the essence of Fado music. Traditional Fado remains solely for voice and guitar but modern Fado includes bass, violin, viola, cello and percussion. There are two distinct styles of Fado, one centered on Lisbon and the second on the northern university city of Coimbra. In Lisbon, Fado is performed by a solo performer, accompanied by two guitarists, one on a twelve-­‐stringed Portuguese guitar, and the other on a six-­‐stringed viola. The deep sorrowful songs are usually about unrequited love, sadness, pain, and “saudade.”

The Fado of Coimbra is more stylized than Lisbon and the poetic nature of the music is usually less dramatic than the Lisbon style. Fado in Coimbra is mostly made up of male artists such as Artur Paredes, Carlos Paredes, José "Zeca" Afonso, José Mário Branco, Júlio Pereira, Adriano Correia de Oliveira, Jose Joaquim Cavalheiro, Lucos Junot and Edmundo de Bettancourt. Student Fado is also prevalent in Coimbra due to its status as the largest, the oldest and the most well known university town in Portugal. Students in traditional dress, black suits and heavy capes sway and serenade listeners in unison. Fado became the voice of student life, paying homage to the bohemian lifestyle portraying the sound of sad souls away from home for the first time. Recently, the popular Fado inspired band Deolinda, marked a generation of students when the popular hit “Parvo Sou Eu” became the anthem for a generation of graduates with an education but no promise of a bright future. What type of music can better express the unhappiness of leaving behind the best years of youth and the student bohemian life than Fado?

BEGINNINGS In the late 18th century the art form of Fado emerged out of Lisbon’s bohemian working-­‐class neighborhoods of Alfama and Mouraria and was initially perceived by the bourgeoisie as a disreputable, lower class music. Maria Severa, said to be a local prostitute and tavern singer is considered the founder of Fado. She would lure crowds in to her mother’s tavern from all over Lisbon with her sultry voice, dark eyes and red lips. A legendary and mythical character in Fado history, scandal was never far from Severa. With many “ingénues” at her feet, the Conde de Vimoso, renowned horseman of the time was captivated by Severa’s woeful music. Throughout the torrid love affair her enthusiasm for bullfighting and a certain bullfighter reflected in her music. The romance of Severa and the Conde sparked many rumors due to the obvious social class divide. Severa, a low class songstress and the aristocratic horseman were a hot topic in the streets of Alfama and Mouraria especially when the Conde abandoned a heartbroken Severa for a gypsy girl. Severa’s life was short lived and in 1846 she passed away at the early age of twenty-­‐six. Historians speculate her death was either from tuberculosis or the more romantic version heartache and suicide. Severa sensed an early death but also knew that her music would not die with her but transcend and become immortal. The story of Maria Severa was later made into Portugal's first sound movie, “A Severa, in 1931 and she has been a

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strong influence for numerous Fado songs, poems, novels, and plays. Severa also began the tradition of the black shawl worn by female fadistas. She immortalized this accessory when she sang and most modern fadistas continue to wear a black shawl in honor of the mother of Fado.

FADISTAS: PAST AND PRESENT In the 1920s Lisbon Fado was considered radical, left wing, music of the poor but later under Salazar’s dictatorship it became a symbol of Portuguese culture. Ironically, after the fall of Salazar’s regime, Fado suffered from that very association because of the repressive reminder that Fado represented during the dark period of dictatorship. However, pre-­‐revolution Fado did gain notoriety and during this period the most notable Fado singers emerged such as Amália Rodrigues, Hermínia Silva, and the aristocratic Maria Teresa de Noronha. Amália quickly became a national treasure. Her success in several films in the 40s and 50s confirmed her celebrity status and she became the first Fado singer to achieve success beyond the Portuguese speaking world. Fado, reached the worldwide stage when Amália Rodrigues introduced Fado to the world. She toured Europe, Japan, South America and even the United States where she performed in New York's "La Vie en Rose" in the 1950s. Amália played a key role in the development of Fado with half a century of music recordings and stage experience. She is an icon that defines a style of music and is deserving of the title "Rainha do Fado" ("Queen of Fado"). Amália's performances and choice of music helped redefine it by transforming lyrical poetry into Fado songs and ultimately pushing the boundaries of traditional Fado. Her extensive international career lasted between the 1950s and the 1970s. To date she continues to be the reference and main inspiration to other well known international Fado artists such as Madredeus, Dulce Pontes and Mariza. An outstanding male artist of this period was Tony de Matos, a Fado singer who also crossed over into the worlds of musical theater and film.

Lucília do Carmo founded club “Faia” in the Barrio Alto where respected singers Alfredo Marceneiro, Carlos Ramos, and Tristão da Silva all performed. Her son Carlos do Carmo became one of the most notable male Fado singers to date. He is famous for his recordings in celebration of Lisbon in collaboration with the poet Ary dos Santos. His style of Fado is influenced by American singers of the Sinatra period and his use of double bass and strings was somewhat controversial, even his own mother was not convinced. Yet, he experienced success on stages in Europe and the United States. Another notable musician of this period, Carlos Paredes, perhaps the greatest Portuguese Guitar player, pushed the boundaries of musical technique with his experimental jazz infused rhythms. Maria da Fé, fado legend and owner of Sr. Vinho Fado club in Lapa, where everyone who is anyone in the elite Fado circle has performed. Several artists alive today began their careers in the time of Amália and are part of an exclusive club. Following the death of Amália in 1999, Lisbon Fado became a fashionable cultural experience in world music which helped shine the spotlight on contemporary artists such as Misia, Madredeus and Mariza.

MODERN DAY FADO MARIZA: Born in Mozambique and raised in the humble Mouraria quarter, her Mother is African and her Father Portuguese. While very young she began singing in a wide variety of musical styles including gospel, soul and jazz. She was the first Fado singer to consciously project an edgy image which initially was offensive to a handful of strict traditionalists. Despite her eccentric look she respects the tradition which is apparent through her powerfully theatrical, heart wrenching voice. Her presence in modern day Fado is undeniable and she has in many ways become Amalia’s successor to the Fado throne.

MISIA: Throughout her career she developed a new style by modernizing Amália Rodrigues's Fado. Her international background allowed for her to record in many languages which also influenced a non traditional approach to Fado music. She lived in Paris for many years which influenced her French style of performing. Her 2003 album Canto was a revelation, using string quartet and the music of Carlos Paredes, with poems by Vasco Graça Moura. It is considered by many her masterpiece and a milestone in modern Fado.

CAMANÉ: Considered "The Prince of Fado" is greatly admired for his urban interpretation of traditional Fado.

Presently, he is the front runner of male Fado singers and has even participated in other musical projects as the lead singer of famous pop/rock band Humanos. His distinct, hypnotizing voice is easy listening.

ANA MOURA: Started her career at the famous Sr. Vinho Fado club owned by fellow fadista Maria da Fé.

She was noticed by musician and composer Jorge Fernand, one of the big names associated with Amália. Her deep and sensual voice is captivating by its originality. She has been invited to sing on some of the most prestigious stages in the world including Carnegie Hall.

MAFALDA ARNAUTH: Her style is sophisticated and slightly operatic, enhanced by her intense stage presence. She has experienced international acclaim in London, Paris and The Netherlands.

For the Portuguese, Fado is an acquired taste, but now with the distinction of World Intangible Heritage, perhaps a new appreciation for this cultural musical genre will emerge and with it, a whole new generation of Fadistas to continue its legacy.

Pictured from top to bottom: Amália Rodrigues, Carlos do Carmo, Carlos Paredes, Marisa, Misia, Camané, Ana Moura, Mafalda Arnauth

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Fado in Lisbon

Fado emerged from the humble tascas, tavern/restaurants of Lisbon. The four Lisbon neighborhoods of Mouraria, Alfama, Madragoa and Bairro Alto are the nesting grounds for traditional Fado. Bairro Alto, the most famous of all, features a wide variety of small and unpretentious tascas alongside the more upscale exclusive casas de fado. Down the hill from São Jorge castle you’ll find the boroughs of Mouraria and Alfama, where Fado maintains it’s reputation as an alternative and bohemian way of life.

Tasca do Chico Located in the heart of Bairro Alto, Tasca do Chico is known for its fado vadio, which literally translates as bohemian or vagabond. It is a karaoke style fado, open to anyone who wishes to sing out their emotions. Performances are on Mondays and Wednesdays. The rest of the week Tasca do Chico turns into a hot spot for students.

Rua Diário de Noticias, 39 Lisbon 965 059 670 Senhor Vinho Owned by fadista Maria da Fé, Senhor Vinho is one of the most exclusive fado venues in town.

Enjoy the singing of well-known fadistas Aldina Duarte and António Zambujo but note that the food is not for everyone’s wallet.

Rua do Meio à Lapa, 18 Lisbon 213 972 681 www.srvinho.com Parreirinha de Alfama Enthusiastic locals see Parreirinha de Alfama as one of the best Fado venues. Although it often attracts a large number of tourists, it maintains it’s authenticity. Located just off Largo do Chafariz de Dentro by the Fado Museum, it often attracts big name performers.

Beco do Espirito Santo, 1, Alfama 218 868 209 Café Luso One of the most famous and expensive ‘casas de fado’in Bairro Alto. Founded in the late 1920s, café Luso enjoys a cult following among Lisbon’s fado lovers.

Travessa da Queimada, 10 Lisbon 21 342 22 81 www.cafeluso.pt

Clube do Fado Clube do Fado, in the center of Alfama was founded by Portuguese guitar player Mário Pacheco and is considered one of the most iconic fado venues in the city, as confirmed by the many photographs of celebrities – from Woody Allen to Richard Branson – that decorate the walls.

Rua de São João da Praça, 92, Lisbon 218 852 704 www.club-de-fado.com Casa de Linhares Tour groups often fill the Palácio dos Condes de Linhares, old family home of the noble family of D. Fernando I. The elegant setting is an excellent backdrop to experience upscale Fado with performances by established fadistas such as Ana Moura, Mafalda Arnauth, Marina Mota, Celeste Rodrigues, Jorge Fernando, and Raquel Tavares.

Beco dos Armazéns do Linho Nº 2, Alfama 1100-037 Lisboa 218 865 088 www.casadelinhares.com

Fado in February JOIN LUSOINFO FOR THE ULTIMATE FADO EXPERIENCE! On Friday, February 16th 2012 LusoInfo will take you on a tour of the Fado Museum to explore the origins and evolution behind Portugal's passionate musical genre. The museum presents the cultural and social influence of Fado from its use in cinema to the impact of censorship in the 20th century.

Audiovisual presentations, multilingual information panels, and musical archives are useful tools to provide visitors with a more interactive experience. Following the tour, there will be dinner in a traditional Fado restaurant where you can experience the essence of Fado first hand in an authentic setting. For more information e-mail events@lusoinfo.org. Further details will also be in the February 2012 issue.

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Portugal’s Global Gastronomical Icon

By Delfina Teixeira

Salted and dried cod is common in southern European countries, such as Spain, France and Italy, but it is in Portugal that it lives up to its Prince of the Seas historic status. In fact, Portugal is the biggest fish consumer per capita in Europe and cod Portuguese Favorite takes center stage. An all year round favorite, it is no rival to its more modest southern Atlantic prolific yet seasonal cousin, the sardine. Most renowned Portuguese novelist and diplomat Eça de Queirós (1845-1900) agreed with one of his friends that after having lived in Paris for eleven years, he had become very French indeed. All except in three things: a shred of melancholy, a “depraved liking of fado” and a “very fair passion for bacalhau de cebolada,” which is cod, coated in flour, fried and then served smothered in onions that are sautéed in olive oil and garlic. Being a fairly cheap, abundant fish with a long storage life when salted and dried, it became a staple in Portugal and known as the “faithful friend. Considering that in mid-20th century most of the population in Portugal did not own refrigerators but had the habit of eating one fish and one meat dish every day, it is easy to understand the convenience of keeping salted dried cod hanging in the pantry. Cut up into big or smaller pieces, after soaking in fresh water for two days, it goes back to its white and succulent plumpness and is ready for preparing a simple family meal or an exquisite dinner.

A Prince and Pauper

Food for Body and Soul The Portuguese infatuation with salted, dried cod started five hundred years ago with a pressing need to find nutritious food for the Portuguese sea explorers in the 15th and 16th centuries. It has evolved to a cross-generational gastronomic preference. In Portugal, Bacalhau da Noruega, also known as Bacalhau do Porto in Brazil, the morhua, is the real bacalhau. It should be very dry, stiff and have a straw color. The labels miúdo, crescido and graúdo, have to do with the weight. The heavier the cod, the more expensive it will be by kilo. It is soaked in cold water for two days with the skin side down and a few water changes are necessary. The pan or large bowl should be kept covered in the refrigerator. A steaming piece of this white, mild-flavored, flaked-textured fish, drenched in the finest olive oil with a garlic scent, triggers maybe in our subconscious mind comforting and timeless feelings of family, friends and fun. Barbecued, flaked and tossed with boiled potatoes and olive oil, garlic and parsley; baked with just olive oil, plenty of garlic and dusted with breadcrumbs; smothered in onions and tomatoes; mixed with boiled or fried quartered potatoes and baked in a cream sauce; golden codfish cakes and “pataniscas” colorfully garnished with chopped parsley and black or green olives and washed down with a good white or green wine are sure winners at any family gathering or celebration of any sort. Maybe our Latin way of translating the simple, soothing prayer of Julian of Norwich “all shall be well, and all shall be well” into earthly, simple pleasures.

Cod and Christmas The tradition of eating codfish on Christmas Eve stems from the powerful influence of the Catholic Church. A ban on meat, was imposed in almost half of the days of the year, and certainly on religious celebrations. The Vatican bolstered the salted dried codfish trade, mainly in southern Europe. Naturally, in Portugal and Brazil cod became associated with any sort of family or/and friends celebration. Boiled cod with potatoes and Portuguese cabbage are at the center of Christmas Eve supper in Portugal, but these days other cod dishes are also prepared. In northern Portugal, octopus, codfish croquettes and farrapos velhos which is mashed potatoes and Portuguese cabbage sautéed in olive oil and garlic, are a necessity on the Christmas Eve table.

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The Fish that changed the world?

Called the Beef of the Sea by the English and Bread of the Sea by the Portuguese, cod was an important commodity in the late medieval and early modern periods.It linked at varying times Iceland, Norway,Denmark, the German cities of the Hanseatic League, England, Scotland, Flanders, France, Italy, Portugal, the Atlantic coastal territories of North America, from Greenland to the Caribbean. The long and relentless exploitation of cod was due to the wide expanse of its habitat and because it could be easily and simply cured, either by salting, air drying or both. The story starts about 1000 years ago in Northern Europe where the stockfish abounded and still does.

The Vikings.

The Vikings or Norse were the first European people to cross the seas from as far East as Turkey to North America and Greenland.

They came from Norway, Sweden and Denmark and had a decisive influence in northern Europe between the 8th and 11th century.

They also changed the course of world history by discovering the codfish in the North Sea and pursing it as far as Northwest Atlantic.

The Vikings dried the cod in fresh air and took it along in their famous dragon ships.

The Basque.

The Basque who lived on both sides of the isthmus that connects the Iberian Peninsula to France, began salting cod before drying it on the rocks, around the year 1000, and also commercialized it. In the 14th century this technique had spread to the Iberian shores, including Portugal.

Cod wars.

Cod’s high protein and low fat content makes it very suitable for salting and drying as well as long storage. That’s why it became so enticing to merchants that cod wars broke out between European nations, between Germans and the English in 1532, between the English and the Spaniards in 1585 and between England and Iceland as recently as 1950s and 1970s. The first big cod processing enterprise was set up by a Dutchman, Jappe Ippes in Kristiansund, Norway, circa 1690, which became the main exporting center of of klippfish, as it was and still is called because it was laid to dry on the cliffs. To this day, 80% of the codfish consumed worldwide comes from Norway.

The New Found Land, Land of Stockfish, Everybody’s Land Newfoundland was officially discovered in 1497 by John Cabot. The same year Vasco da Gama sailed from Belém, Lisbon, and won for Portugal the ongoing race among European nations to reach India by sea and the lucrative spices and silks trade that followed.

John Cabot was, in fact, an Italian explorer, named Giovanni Caboto who had moved to Spain and then to Bristol, England, looking for investors to finance an expedition to the Northwest Atlantic, to find a passage to the East, sailing westward. He got a charter from King Henry VII “to sail to all parts, countries and seas of the East, the West and of the North, under our banner and ensign and to set up our banner on any new-found-land." Like Christopher Columbus, who discovered America in 1492 and thought he had arrived in India, his calculations were based on the assumption that the earth was round. A fact that would be proved in 1519, when Fernão de Magalhães sailed around the world. Strong evidence suggests that Portuguese navigator João Corte Real had reached Newfoundland in1473/4. In fact he was awarded governship of the Azores Islands for having discovered the “Terra Nova do Bacalhau”, “New Land of the Stockfish”. In 1500, King Manuel I of Portugal sent Gaspar Corte-Real, one of the three sons of João Corte-Real, to Greenland in search of a northwest passage to Asia, which was believed to be a shorter, less perilous route to India, than the route around Africa discovered by Vasco da Gama. In 1501 he returned with his brother Miguel, but since the sea was frozen, they sailed south and arrived in Labrador and Newfoundland. Gaspar Corte-Real sent his brother and two ships back to Portugal and continued to navigate south. He was never heard from again. Upon Miguel’s description, a planisphere was made by Alberto Cantino, which depicts accurately the southern coastline of Greenland. Miguel Corte-Real went back to Newfoundland the following year to search for his brother and he also vanished.

Cod and the Making of the New World It was the pursuit of the “beef of the sea” that led Europeans to North America, first in short-term fishing expeditions, then fishermen colonies were set up and finally they were enticed to stay. Cape Cod, in the state of Massachusetts, appears on a map drawn by Captain John Smith in 1614. Cod assured the survival of the Pilgrims who landed in Plymouth on November 11, 1620, as the Wampanoag, a native American tribe taught these Europeans how to catch the cod and use the inedible parts as fertilizer for farming. It was the source of New England’s early wealth. High quality cod was sold in Europe, while the colonists purchased European wines, fruit and other products. In the Caribbean, traders sold a low-end cod, “West India cure” to feed the burgeoning slave population and bought sugar and molasses to make rum.

Cod in Newfoundland An agreement was signed by Portuguese King Pedro I and English King Edward II in 1353, allowing fishermen from Lisbon and Porto to fish in the English waters for 50 years.This proves that the Portuguese had been engaged in this activity for quite some time. Upon his return from Newfoundland John Cabot reported that he had seen huge schools of fish. The good news traveled fast to southern European countries and Portuguese, French and Spanish fishermen who had cheap access to

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salt, rushed to the bountiful grand banks of the North Atlantic. In 1504, colonies of Portuguese fishermen from Viana do Minho and Aveiro were already established in the grand banks. The number of vessels sailing from Aveiro in Northern Portugal increased from 60 to 150 in 1550.

Documented evidence concludes that the Portuguese were already fishing there before John Cabot claimed the territory for the English ruler: It is written in the books of the Portuguese Crown that Corte-Real brothers expeditions were paid with the 10% King Manuel I charged on the cod shipments coming from the Grand Banks.

A White Fleet in Dark Times During World War II, the Portuguese “bacalhoeiros,” cod-fishing vessels, were painted white to avoid attacks by the belligerent parts, after two schooners were sunk and thirty-six lives were lost. For Newfoundlanders they became the White Fleet. It was a very hard life for the fishermen, as they spend six to eight months of the year in the rough, ice cold waters of the North Atlantic. A lonely, dangerous job, fishing under the threat of scary, stormy weather, big waves, getting lost in the fog, collisions with big vessels and having to survive on meager meals and four hours of sleep a day. Back on the schooner, they had to clean, gut and salt the cod but also enjoyed a hot meal of cod “cheeks,” tongues and bladder, which are still very popular in some coastal areas in Portugal. “A dog’s life,” “hardest way to make a living I know” wrote Allen Villiers, Australian writer and man of the sea who in 1951 crossed the Atlantic with these men and unveiled to the world the passion and the plight of the Portuguese “campaigns,” which is what six months off fishing in the North Atlantic was called. In fact, in the 20th century, the campaigns were a strong economic driving force and were used as propaganda of the regime.

Heroes of the Regime The departure of the White Fleet was blessed by Church and State in a public and publicized ceremony. Women wailing while their men waved from the decks promoted Salazar’s patriotic and catholic values of sacrifice, endurance and hardship. Some historians believe that Salazar used these men to recreate the Portuguese epic heroes of the seas of the 1500s. The best fishermen in each codfish “campaign” were rewarded the following year with a glass of Port with the Captain himself, Salazar. Nonetheless and in sharp contrast with the real, unreal hardships endured by the Portuguese fishermen in Newfoundland, they are remembered fondly by the older population of St. John ‘s as a cheerful, lively lot. The town’s folk looked forward to the Portuguese fishermen regular calls for supplies, repairs, shore leaves, shelter from bad weather, land sick or injured men or even bury of one of their crew. They cheerfully walked around town and bought small gifts such as cosmetics, toys, dolls, perfumes for their children, wives, mothers and girlfriends. At night, the White Fleet lit up and came alive with boisterous chattering and Portuguese music.

Brave Men-boys forced to choose between two battles: Africa or Codfish.

From 1961 until 1974, young Portuguese men had the choice between the African colonial war or become a sailor-fisherman of cod in Newfoundland and Greenland. Bernardo de Santareno, a pen-name for a doctor who worked on the mother-ship-hospital Gil Eanes, wrote about these “rough, brave yet naive men, with a strong character, throwing themselves against the sea, eager to catch more cod than the others, trusting the Virgin Mary that things will go all right, that the overladen dory won’t sink.” Wayne Ralph, a 70 year old Canadian raised in St John, used to observe and photograph these Portuguese sailor-fishermen. Many of them were just teenagers like himself, but acted like men, as he realized when he was 14 years old and eating a banana split he had bought with his weekly allowance. A Portuguese sailor-fisherman sat next to him and asked in “sign language” what he was eating. Then he ordered a beer, but the waitress refused to serve him anything with alcohol. That’s when the young Canadian realized that he was just a teenager like himself, but acting like a man. He noticed how he tossed the coin across the counter and left a tip. Hard earned money as his rough hands and dirty nails showed. For the young middle class teenager, these “good-looking, self-assured men” were his heroes. “The Portuguese personified everything I wanted to be. Their ships looked like they had come out of a fairy tail.”

Cod from Porto in Brazil In 1903, August Escoffier, a French chef said: “We must thank the Portuguese for having introduced in our diet this precious fish, which is now known and enjoyed all over the world.”

He was talking about cod. And he was quite right. We globalized the world and the cod. It’s still enjoyed in all the Lusophone countries as a popular and refined food. Cod reached Brazil in 1808 with the Portuguese royal family who moved to our then largest and richest colony to escape Napoleon’s grand armée. The first big shipment of bacalhau arrived in Brazil in 1843 from Norway. Currently 95% of the cod consumed in Brazil comes from Norway. Jornal do Brazil notes in a 1891 issue that, every Sunday, the intellectual elite of the time, led by Machado de Assis, got together in a restaurant in Rio de Janeiro to enjoy an authentic “bacalhau do Porto” and discuss Brazilian issues. Cod from Porto was and still is from Norway, and it means the morhua, the bacalhau in Portugal. To this day cod is still associated with important discussions and executive dinners. After World War II, cod prices rose sharply

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and the average Brazilian limited consumption to Christmas and Easter. In the last decades, with imports liberalization and Brazil’s rapid economic grow, figures show Brazilians are enjoying cod again. News from Norway, the official site of NORGE, the Norwegian Seafood Export Council, reports that “Brazil was the largest recipient of clip fish in February of 2011, “a total volume of 6,969 tones,” “an increase of more than 95% in volume in one year.

Portugal - saying good-bye to faraway fishing.

In 1955, a big, colorful event took place in St. John, the capital of Terra Nova and Labrador to celebrate 500 years of Portuguese and Canadian historical and commercial relations and also launched a new ship into the White Fleet: The Gil Eanes - Mother-Ship-Hospital. It was a well equipped ship, built entirely in Viana no Castelo, north of Oporto. In reality, it was the beginning of the end. In the late sixties it was becoming harder and harder to recruit young men to labor in the dangerous faina maior (major fishing) in Newfoundland and Greenland. They were now lured by high paid jobs in factories and construction sites in Germany and France. There were also plenty of other jobs in Portugal in factories as industrialization was under way and in the booming tourism industry. Portugal’s economy was growing fast, 7% in 1968, in spite of the colonial war. The last “bacalhoeiros”(codfish vessels) voyage to the Newfoundland was in 1971. The Gil Eanes returned to Viana do Castelo and is now a museum and a youth hostel.

Greed breeds need!

In 1497, John Cabot marveled at the ocean teeming with fish in the Newfoundland, so much of it that they blocked his ship!

Portuguese fishermen rejoiced in being able to catch the cod “with a basket”! For more than a century and until the mid-1950s, the prolific cod, off southern Labrador and to the east of the Newfoundland, in the vast northwest Atlantic, yielded an annual catch of about 250,000 tons. Intensive fishing with distant-water fleets peaked at just over 800,000 tons in1968, but by 1975 this number was down to less than 300,000. Other species were disappearing fast too. Canada and the United States, concerned that stocks were being reduced to almost nothing, banned "foreign" fishing fleets to the "high seas" in 1976. Foreigners left but fishing went on with stern factory-trawlers, or draggers. Draggers haul huge, bag-like nets, as long as a football field, held open by huge steel "doors.

They ploughed and scraped the ocean bottom, dragging up schools of fish and anything else in the way, including huge colonies of cod while they were spawning. Consequently, in 1992, the biomass estimate for northern cod was the lowest ever and Canada declared a ban on this species. Fisheries for cod in other areas were also curtailed or closed due to severe depletion. Fortythousand people lost their jobs and the Newfoundland became an economic disaster area. Current efforts to save the cod focus on the health of several species of herring in eastern U.S. waters. Cod, among other fish, feed on herring.

Portugal’s 21st century efforts to go back to the Terra do Bacalhau Although today only about 2% of the cod consumed in Portugal is caught by Portuguese fishing companies in Norway, there is a significant processing industry. The cod is imported fresh and then is salted and dried in Portugal. You can buy it frozen, ready to be used. This means that it was soaked, then frozen and packaged. The national cod processing industry is worth 50 million per year just in exports mainly to Brazil but also to Angola, France and Italy. The Portuguese have been trying to increase their quotas of fishing both in Europe and in Canada and in 2010 they had good news: now, in 2011 they are allowed to fish 875 more tons of cod in Canadian waters, which represents an increase of over 80% relative the previous quota established by NAFO (Northwest Atlantic Fishing Organization). In addition, the EU decided to increase the quota of the North Sea, including Canada and Norway fishing zones, namely Svalbard. In the Svalbard zone Portugal’s quota increased about 11%, from 2,144 to 2,378 tons.

Norway: Portugal’s Long Standing, Savory, Healthy Connection It started a long, long time ago, in the 10th century. They had something we very soon turned into a need. Something we need to this day like “bread in the mouth” as the Portuguese expression goes, meaning “badly, a lot." Maybe that’s why the Portuguese called the cod “bread of the seas.” And we had the salt they needed to cure the cod before drying it on the cliffs. There’s physical evidence of Norse or Vikings’s settlements and trading posts in Lugar das Pedrinhas, near Fão, district of Braga, in Minho. Here you can see the oldest oval, boat shaped, Viking type houses in the western World. In the 12th century, the king of Denmark married a daughter of the Portuguese king which indicates there were strong ties between the two kingdoms. The Norse (Norwegians and Danes) had settlements in the southern part of Greenland and on the northern tip of the Newfoundland until the 15th century. And since it was the king of Denmark who organized the expedition to the Newfoundland at the King of Portugal’s request, it is very likely that João Corte-Real knew how to get to the stockfish land, Terra do Bacalhau and he did get there 15 years before John Cabot. Henry the Navigator, the mentor of Portuguese discoveries, did take advantage of all the information the Portuguese had gathered and he himself could gather from their Nordic friends. Salted dried cod makes up one-third of all the catch consumed in Portugal.

Portuguese are the biggest cod consumers in the world, 60.000 tons per year, 90% of which is sold salted and dried. According to a study conducted in 2011, Portugal continues to be the biggest importer of Bacalhau da Noruega, the morhua, the real cod in Portugal.

Full circle The route of codfish has completed a full circle. It is back to where it all started for the Portuguese and the other southern Europe countries. Hopefully fishing authorities in Northern Europe will continue to take preventive measures to assure sustainable fishing in Sea and in the Barents Sea, where the largest stocks of cod can be found today in Europe.

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RI B ATEJ O “ H EA RTL A N D”

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RIBATEJO The province of Ribatejo, shores of the Tejo or upper river bank, is a geographic region that borders to the Northeast between Estremadura and Alentejo. Ribatejo covers an area of 7,500 sq kilometers with a population of approximately 532,600 and encompasses 17 of the 21 municipalities of Santarém, three municipalities in the Lisbon district and one in the Portalegre District.

The Tejo is one of the two most important rivers of the Iberian peninsula. Originating in the Spanish Alps, the Tejo crosses into Portugal at the Portas de Rodão and journeys through Ribatejo dividing it into two distinct landscapes until reaching it’s final destination in Lisbon where it meets the Atlantic Ocean. In the north of Ribatejo, the Bairro (neighborhood), is characterized by rolling hills known as cabeços, where Pine and Olive trees dot the shoreline. To the South is Lezíria, an endless stretch of plains where Mertelengo bulls and Lusitano horses graze.

Considered the “Heart of Portugal” this region is blessed with fertile land that is ideal for the cultivation of apple, fig, olives, tomatoes, rice and wine producing grapes. Agricultural activities are what define this region where man, animal and nature coexist harmoniously. It is the breeding ground for the majestic Lusitano horse that can be seen grazing freely on the limestone and clay banks of the river.

Ribatejo is a region 500 years old that boasts Celtic, Roman and Arab influences. It was here that Dom Afonso Henriques, Portugal’s first king, began the unification of Portugal. Monuments such as castles, monasteries and churches reveal the passage of time and are a testament to the rich historical legacy left by the many cultures that marked this region.

The Ribatejo region is characterized by a strong agricultural influence which is revealed through many traditions and customs practiced here. Deep cultural and historical roots make Ribatejo unique and easily identifiable. The bold flag colored costume of the “campino”, Portuguese cowboy, and the majestic stance of the Lusitano horse are the mascots of this region. The quick footed fandango, folkloric dance, is another trademark native to this region as well as its gastronomic delights.

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Lisbon District: Azambuja Vila Franca de Xira Portalegre District Ponte de Sor Santarém District: Abrantes, Alcanena Almeirim Alpiarça, Benavente Cartaxo, Chamusca Constância Coruche Ferreira do Zêzere Golegã Rio Maior Salvaterra de Magos Santarém Sardoal Tomar Torres Novas Vila Nova da Barquinha

AZAMBUJA

VILA FRANCA DE XIRA

http://www.cm-azambuja.pt

http://www.cm-vfxira.pt

“Mouchões” Mouchões are a series of small islands scattered across the Tejo River where natural habitats of vegetation, herons and eagles preside. The city council provides walking and boat tours called “Rota dos Mouchões.”

These tours provide wonderful views of this natural paradise including the islet of Casa Branca where Lusitano horses are bred.

Palha Branco Bull Ring Praça de Toiros Palha Blanco In 2001 the Praça de Toiros Palha Branco celebrated 100 years of bullfighting history. On the same location stood three other bull rings made out of wood. In 1901, after many modifications and rebuilding, the existing bullring held the first bull fight which was attended by the masses. Since then many famous names have passed through this iconic structure.

“Virtudes” Pinewood Forest The national “Virtudes” Pinewood forest was planted by King D. Dinis and is a welcoming landscape for outdoor sports such as hiking, walking or jogging. The trails are equally suitable for family nature walks.

The Wine Museum Village Aveiras de Cima A modern approach to oenotourism this wine museum demonstrates the importance of the different stages of wine production. Visitors are invited to taste various wines from the region.

Arts & Crafts Fair On the last Sunday of every month, a group of local artisans participate in the Arts and Crafts fair in Póvoa Santa Iria, at the Palácio da Quinta da Piedade. The arts and crafts fair runs from 10:00 - 18:00.

Riverside Walkway Alhandra/V. F. X. Jog, walk or bike down the newly inaugurated riverside walkway that stretches 3 kilometers from the Dr. Sousa Martins Museum in Alhandra to the old rice factory in Vila Franca de Xira.

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Constancia

Tomar

The town of Constância is situated where two rivers merge, the Tejo and the Zêzere River. The small picturesque town has many quaint attributes like the promenade, gardens, town square and narrow streets but it is undoubtedly the Castelo de Almourol that sets this town apart. The town's name was given by Luís Vaz de Camões, famous Portuguese poet from the 16th century and author of the Lusíadas. Camões lived in Constância for some time and in his honor the town hosts a medieval festival called "Pomonas Camonianas."

Another important event is the Festival of Nossa Senhora da Boa Viagem (Our Lady of the Safe Journey), that takes place around Easter where the main event is a procession down the river of colorfully decorated boats.

Tomar dates back to Roman times when two towns Nabantia and Sellium were established on the fertile land after the Romans realized how productive the river side land could be. Geographic positioning made Tomar and ideal spot for agriculture and trade. After Roman occupation, the Visigoths took over, followed by the Moors. After defeating the Moors, the settlement and neighbor lands were given to the Order of the Knights Templar as a fief. A year later, in 1160, Gualdim Pais, the Knights of Templar's Grand Master, laid the first stone of the Castle and Monastery, which were set to be the order's headquarters in Portugal. Tomar has many monuments of the Templar era but the most notable is the Convent of the Knights of Order of Christ (Convento de Christo) which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

After the eradication of the Knights Templar, the order continued to function under the name The Order of the Christ which reached its highest peak under the reign of Henry the Navigator, who was the Great Master of the Order. He was responsible for reorganizing Tomar’s appearance by making the streets geometrical and by building dams on the Nabão River. During the reign of King Manuel I, the town and monastery complex were once again refurbished and fashioned in Manueline style, which would be its final look. Tomar remains an important location, with many historical monuments including Aqueduto de Pegões, Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Conceição, Igreja de São João Baptista, Museu LusoHebraico Abraham Zacuto, Museu dos Fosforos, Synagogue of Tomar, among others. Tomar is also the location of the Festa dos Tabuleiros, which gathers thousands from all over Portugal every four years. The colorful festival celebrates, harvesting and fertility.

Castelo de Almourol The Almourol Castle is situated on a small islet in the middle of the Tejo River and is well known for its association with the Knights of Templar during the Reconquista (Reconquest)period. However, there are some suggestions that a fort like structure was already in existence before this time. Some evidence shows the Lusitanians established a fort there, which was later reconstructed by the Romans. The fort was occupied throughout the late Middle Ages and in 1129 was named Almorolan. It then became the property of the Knights of Templar, who were in charge of defending Lisbon against the Moors. They rebuilt the fort into a castle, which was finished in 1171, two years after the one in Tomar. Both of these structures have common characteristics typical of military Templar architecture.

In the 14th century, after the end of Reconquista and the abolishment of the Knights of Templar order, Almourol castle was abandoned. It remained vacant until the 19th century when the Romantic movement attempted to renovate the desolate castle but unfortunately the Templar features were compromised to due to poor reconstruction. In the 20th century, the castle once again suffered a facelift when it became an Official Residence of the Republic. Today, it is national monument and is open to the public for a free visit.

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Convento de Christo The monastery complex Convento de Christo is a 16 sided church built in Gothic style with Manueline decorations and inspired by the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. The cloisters were built during the reign of Prince Henry the Navigator and are decorated with beautiful azulejos (tiles). There is also a Manueline style Chapter house and Clausto Principal (Great Cloisters), as well as many other smaller adjacent buildings.

Tomatoes and rice are the most significant agricultural product The Lusitano is one cultivated in of the premier Ribatejo. On the horse breeds in banks of the Tejo Portugal. The name rice and tomato Lusitano derives from fields provide vast landscapes that Lusitania which is extend from Sorraia to the East and considered the name of the Portuguese territory Azambuja to the West. under Roman rule. Lusitania comes from Luso who Ribatejo is responsible for the majority was the son of the roman god of wine and of tomato production in Portugal. The merriment, Bacchus. This breed of horse has largest industrial tomato producing earned recognition because of their efficiency as factories are located in Almeirim, battle horses. The Lusitano horse is tall, but not Benavente and Azambuja. In too large. They have powerful hips and legs, a Portuguese cuisine tomato and rice are thick mane and tail. Their beauty and majestic indispensable and both provide the base physical features are a winning factor but it is their for the majority of traditional dishes. renowned strength and elegance that make them According to an old saying “no tempo do suitable for competitions and bullfights. These tomate não há más cozinheiras” (with tomato horses have a reputation for courage and the there are no bad cooks).. ability to bond strongly with humans.

There are two main variations of rice, Carolino and Agulha that you see in all supermarkets. Carolino has an advantage over Agulha in that it absorbs the flavors of other elements that it is cooked with. For stew like In the rural dishes such as Arroz de Marisco, Seafood Rice towns of or Duck Rice Arroz de Pato, Carolino rice is Charneca, the kind to use. basket weaving and wicker Festa Brava is the oldest tradition furniture are in Ribatejo. The bullfights (corridas the main crafts de touros) are held in two phases. produced that The first part is devoted to the represent the cavaleiro, horseman, whose connection with objective is to jab a series of small the land which is javelins into the bulls back while an important aspect of Ribatejano mounted on a Lusitano horse. The life. The celebrated embroidery of second part of the bullfight is the “Pega de the Glória do Ribatejo in Salvaterra Caras” (face catch) where the “forcados” a dos Magos is renowned for the group of eight men, challenge the bull face to stories told through needle and face without a weapon of defense. The front thread. Ceramic and iron works are man provokes the bull to charge to perform “a common in Santarém, Coruche, pega de cara.” Once the bull charges, the leader Golegã and Chamusca. The Lusitano must secure the bull’s head while the other men horse is a a source of inspiration for surround and secure the animal until he is many of the crafts produced in subdued. This spectacle is not for the light Golegã which is also the location of hearted and in recent years there has been an the annual horsefair. increase in controversy surrounding these events. It is safe to say that nowadays, many are root for the bull!!!

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SANTARÉM Irene was born into an an influential family in present-day Tomar. Her overprotective parents thought it best for her to study in a convent school with a private tutor. Her life revolved around study and prayer and she only stepped outside to attend mass or pray at the sanctuary of St.Peter. On one of these occasions a young noble, Britald, happened to see her and fell sickly in love with her. He would follow her to church and eventually came forward to court her; however, Irene insisted that she would never marry him because she had given herself to God in a vow of celibacy and would become a nun. With this news Britald went into a depression.

Meanwhile, Irene’s tutor, a monk named Remigius, also fell victim to her charms and made improper advances which she firmly declined. Angered at her refusal, he quit as her tutor and took revenge by spreading a rumor that she was pregnant.

This rumor spread around the town, and eventually reached the ears of Britald who was enraged by his beloved's supposed infidelity. In a jealousy frenzy, he hired a mercenary soldier to kill her as she was returning home from visiting an elderly cripple. The soldier approached from behind and killed her with a single stroke of his sword. Her limp body was thrown into the River Tejo and later, was recovered by the Benedictines near the town of Scalabris. Her body was uncorrupted, meaning it had not suffered the natural process of decomposition and in the Catholic world this fact elevated her to saintly status. Irene received a proper burial and soon after the reverence paid to the virgin saint was so great that the name of the town of Scalabis was changed to Santarém ("Saint Irene") making Irene the patron saint of Tomar and namesake Santarém.

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Gothic Graça Church LusoInfo

Santarém has witnessed 3,000 years of history and was first inhabited by the Indo

European Lusitani people, followed by the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Visigoths, and the Moors. The city of Scalabis was founded by the Romans who occupied the region in the 2nd century BC. Under Roman rule, Scalabis was a significant port in the Tejo region and was the administrative capital of one of the regions of Lusitania.

In the 8th century Santarém was seized by the Arabs who transformed the city into an important cultural center and became known as Shantarin. In 1147, the first King of Portugal, Dom Afonso Henriques, and a small army managed to reconquer the city after scaling the city walls at night to open the gates. This act marked the beginning of the Portuguese Reconquest.

During the 16th Century, notable personalities such as such as Pedro Álvares Cabral (discoverer of Brazil), Luis de Camões (Lyrical Poet), Fernão Lopes Castanheda (Historian of the Discoveries), Martim Afonso de Melo (1st European that arrived in China by sea) were closely linked to Santarém.

Santarém is also closely tied to some of the most important events in Portuguese History.

It was the headquarters of the Peninsular wars and the French Invasions led by General Massena and besieged by the Duke of Wellington in 1810-11.

In the words of Almeida Garrett, Santarém is "a stone book in which the most interesting and most poetic of our chronicles is written."

Historical Attractions Considered the Gothic Capital, Santarém has the most varied gothic churches in Portugal. With a picturesque city center, there is a wealth of historical monuments which include stunning examples of Romanesque and Gothic styles as well as Manueline, Renaissance, Mannerist and Baroque architecture.

Old Castle of Santarém (Porta do Sol): Located on a hill over the Tejo River the site of the old castle of Santarém is now a nice garden that offers spectacular views. Part of the walls and towers of the castle are still preserved.

Church of Saint John of Alporão (Igreja de São João de Alporão) Built between the 12th and the 13th centuries by the Knights Templar, this church is a fine example of transitional architecture, with a Romanesque main portal and an early Gothic main chapel. The church now houses a small Archaeological Museum.

Cabaças Tower (Torre das Cabaças) Ancient defensive tower of the mediaeval wall of the city.

Houses the Time Museum with an exhibition about the measurement of time through the ages.

Church of St. Stephen - Church of the Holy Miracle (Igreja do Santissimo Milagre) Home to the

13th century Eucharistic Miracle of Santarém, a popular destination among Catholics worldwide.

Church of the Grace (Igreja da Graça) Built between the 14th and 15th centuries and has a magnificent main portal and rose window which is unique in the world because it is carved out of a single stone. Pedro Alvares Cabral, discoverer of Brazil, and his wife are buried under a simple slab near the main chapel.

Church of Marvila (Igreja de Marvila) The interior of this 16th century-church is covered with 17th century multicolored tiles with geometric patterns.

It has one of the most impressive tile displays in Portugal.

Cathedral of Santarém (Sé-Catedral) Built in the 17th century it is the Jesuit church of the city. It became the Seminary church after the Jesuits were expelled from Portugal in the mid 18th century.

Since the 1970s it is the Cathedral of Santarém.

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Fandango is one of the main folk dances in Portugal and especially dear in the Ribatejo region. It originates from the gatherings of agricultural workers after a long days work in the fields. It is a form of “dance off” where each person in turn must impress the other and the audience with their fancy footwork. The faster the feet the better the dance. The choreography is quite simple. In Ribatejo it is often practiced by two “campino’s,” cattle herders, who face each other and take turns demonstrating the quick taping footwork. The energetic music that accompnies the traditonal dance consists of Fadinhos, Bailaricos, Viras, Fandang, Valseados, and various interpretations of the Fandango.

Fátima which is part of the Ourém municipality, is the holiest city in Portugal, famous for the apparitions of the Virgin Mary in 1917. The first sighting took place on May 13th when ten year old Lúcia dos Santos and her cousins Jacinta and Francisco Marto were herding sheep in Cova da Iria near their home village of Fátima in Portugal. Lúcia described the vision as a woman "brighter than the sun, shedding rays of light clearer and stronger than a crystal ball filled with the most sparkling water and pierced by the burning rays of the sun." The apparitions are recognized by the Catholic church and it was reported that three secrets were revealed which would have significant impact on the world.

Fátima now attracts

thousand of religious tourists and Portuguese “peregrinos” yearly. When promises are made to Nossa Senhora, believers pay their debt by walking on their knees from the entrance of the Basilica to the shrine of Our Lady of Fátima as a symbol of gratitude for a promise granted.

Ribatejo gastronomy is rich and diverse and can be heavy on the stomach. A typical example would be the traditional “Sopa da Pedra” or Stone Soup that is confectioned with beans, pig’s ear, “chouriço,” pork belly, potatoes, an onions. This dish literally feels like a stone in your stomach even though that is not the reason for the name!

Originating from Almeirim, a poor and hungry friar was to proud to beg for food. He knocked on the door of a local farmer and requested a large pot in which to make a sumptuous and filling stone soup. Stunned and curious by the notion, the farmer invited him into his home to prepare the mysterious meal. The friar took a stone from his pocket and placed it into boiling water. He tasted the soup and requested a pinch of salt. After another tasting he requested a little bit of “chouriço” and pork belly. The farmer would add all the ingredients requested by the friar until the soup was complete. After the hearty and satisfying meal, the friar cleaned the stone and placed it back in his pocket for the next time.

Other local dishes include sopa de peixe (fish soup), açorda de sável (shad-bread soup), fataça na telha (large mullet cooked in a roof tile), enguias fritas (fried eels), magusto com bacalhau assado (a type of bread panada with grilled cod fish) and espetadas em vara de loureiro (skewered meat grilled on a laurel stick). Originating from the local convents, celestes de Santa Clara (a sweet made of eggs) and arrepiados do Convento de Almoster (sweets made of meringue and crisp almond) are famous local desserts.

Portalegre District: Ponte de Sor: Barragem Montargil Ponte de Sor is the only municipality in the district of Portalegre that is considered a part of the Ribatejo region. Montargil is located within the Ponte de Sor district and is a natural water reserve extending 20 kilometers. It was officially inaugurated as a popular vacation spot in 1959. Since then hotel, camping sites and other holiday associated activities have developed. The beautiful scenery, tranquil waters and variety of water based and out door sports activities makes the Barragem Montargil an excellent weekend getaway or summer vacation destination.

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Ribatejo Wine Tejo, VR The entire Portuguese wine region Tejo, formerly known as Ribatejo is classified under Tejo, VR, (Vinho Regional/ Regional Wine). However, in some areas the higher designation, Ribatejo DOC (Denomiação de Origem Controlada) is applied. There are six subregions of the Tejo region that are entitled to the Ribatejo DOC designation, Almeirim, Cartaxo, Chamusca, Coruche, Santarém and Tomar and are usually marketed under labels such as Ribatejo, Arruda and Leziria.

Top 5 Ribatejo Wines Value for Money 1. 2008 Quinta da Alorna Castelão Dry red wine

€ 2.88 2. 2008 Quinta Lagoalva de Cima Dry red wine

€ 3.77 3. 2007 Quinta da Alorna Castelão Dry red wine

€ 3.80 4. 2009 Quinta da Lagoalva Dry red wine

€ 7.25 5. 2007 Quinta do Casal Branco Reserva Dry red wine € 7.29

Ribatejo's top Tejo wines are mainly red, and made from a combination of classic Portuguese varieties like Castelão, Trincadeira Periquita, Trincadeira Preta and international varieties such as Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Reds mostly originate from the varieties, with the addition of imported varieties, mainly Cabernet Sauvignon. The wines are fruity and spicy with a robust and tannic character. Ribatejo whites are typically from the Fernão Pires and Trincadeira-das-Pratas which produce dry, lemon-coloured, floral aromatic, and light-bodied wines.

Economical 1. Quinta da Alorna Castelão Dry red wine

€ 1.54 2. Quinta do Falcão Ribatejo Reserva Dry red wine

€ 2.16 3. 2009 Dfj Ribatejo Trincadeira & Castelão Dry red wine

€ 2.38 4. 2007 Quinta do Falcão Ribatejo Reserva Dry red wine

€ 2.52 5. 2010 João Portugal Ramos Ribatejo Conde de Vimioso Dry red wine

€ 2.66

The Museu Rural do Vinho in Cartaxo is well worth a visit. The modern museum consists of a display of all types of historic tools, wine storage vessels and unusual winemaking contraptions used in making regional wine. There are four Ribatejo wine routes that are divided by historical and cultural themes that highlight the unique features of the region. Curiously, some of the region's best known wineries, including Caves Dom Teodósio and Falua, are not part of the wine route. "Gothic Treasure" runs along the North bank of the Tejo River and the Serra dos Candeeiros (Natural Park), and includes a trip to a wine making museum.

"Bulls and Horses" extends along the flat banks of the Tejo and explores traditional Ribatejo, by way of the towns of Benavente and Coruche. "Beira Tejo" consists of a tour of the the villages of whitewashed houses that are found in Alpiarça, Almeirim, Chamusca and Salvaterra de Magos. "Manueline Treasure - Templar Castles" is the route that examines the historic city of Tomar. www.rotavinhoribatejo.pt

Best Rating 1. 2009 Quinta da Lagoalva Dry red wine

€ 7.25 2. 2000 Casa Agricola Da Quinta Ribatejo Paço Dos Falcões Dry red wine

€ 15.00 3. 2007 Quinta do Casal Branco Ribatejo Falcoaria Reserva Dry red wine

€ 7.29 4. 2008 Quinta da Alorna Castelão Dry red wine

€ 2.88 5. 2008 Quinta Lagoalva de Cima Lagoalva Dry red wine

€ 3.77 www.vinopedia.com

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Arroz de Polvo

Pasteis de Bacalhau

Fish Cakes or Fritters made from Salted Cod

Octopus Rice

Ingredients: 300 g bacalhau, 300 g potatoes, 2 eggs, Half a grated or diced onion, handful of finely chopped parsley, pepper, salt (to taste), cooking oil (a good oil for deep frying -- not olive oil)

Ingredients: 1,6 kg of octopus (frozen), 2 dl of red wine, 150 g of onions, 1,5 dl of olive oil, 2 cloves of garlic, 1 bunch of parsley, coriander, 320 g of rice, salt to taste, 1 bay leaf, olives

Preparing the Bacalhau If you buy the dry salted cod you will need to soak it for 48 hours to remove the salt. Place the dry bacalhau skin side up in a bowl and fill until the water covers it completely. Change the water twice a day and keep cool or your kitchen will develop an unpleasant smell! For thicker pieces the bacalhau may need to soak for longer. For quicker preparation, bacalhau demolhado or presoaked frozen cod is available in all supermarkets.

Preparation: Cook the bacalhau in a saucepan of boiling water for about 15 minutes or until the fish flakes are completely white and flaky.

Alternatively, you can simmer in milk which tenderizes the cod. Remove the bacalhau from the saucepan and allow it to cool a little so that you can then remove the skin and all of the bones. Shred the bacalhau into strands as small as possible and place in a bowl.

Boil potatoes with the skins until they are soft. Keeping the skins on reduces the amount of water that the potato takes in when it is cooking. It is important to let the potatoes cool before mashing so that the water evaporates. For fluffy cod cakes the potato must be as dry as possible. Peel the potatoes and crush them as if you were making mashed potatoes. If you have a passe vite, a kitchen utensil used to puree, then spoon the potatoes and grind. Add the mashed potatoes to the bacalhau. Add the eggs, a handful of finely chopped parsley and half a grated onion and a little pepper.

Generally salt is not needed but you can season to taste. Mix all the ingredients thoroughly together with your hands until you have a very even sticky paste. Shape the fish cakes into small oval shapes using two deep tablespoons. Fill one of the spoons with the mix and alternate the spoon around the mixture until you have a small egg shape. This process is a little tricky and requires some practice. Rest the oval shaped fish cakes on a plate dusted with flour so they won’t stick. .Before frying roll the fish cakes in a little flour for crispier cakes.

Heat the cooking oil in a small, deep saucepan or a special deep frying pot. You need to have enough oil for the fish cakes to float around while they cook. When the oil is hot put the fish cakes in allowing space for them to move in the oil to cook evenly. Remove when they are golden brown and place on a tray or plate with kitchen paper to remove excess oil.

Serve hot or cold.

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*You can also add 350 grs of fresh tomatoes 1 green pepper and piri-piri to taste.

Preparation: Serves 4 Boil the octopus while still frozen for 20-25 minutes. This makes the octopus tender. If using fresh octopus beat to tenderize.

When cooled cut into small pieces and set aside.

Chop the onions and garlic and lightly fry. (If using tomatoes and green pepper, chop, and add as well.) Add the octopus to fry slightly with a drizzle of red wine.

Remove the octopus and add the rice to the fried onion and garlic.

Use a portion of the octopus stock to cook the rice. When the rice is nearly cooked add the octopus and let simmer until the rice is slightly watery. Add parsley and coriander and serve topped with olives and sliced red and green peppers for a Christmas feel.

Holiday Starters Soft Cheese & Bread Queijo da Serra or Amanteigado Presunto Pasteis de Bacalhau (Cod cakes) Rissóis (Shrimp pasties) Croquetes (Meat rolls) Boiled or Fried Shrimp Black and Green Olives

Rabanadas

Sonhos

Rabanhadas

Sonhos

Ingredients: 1 French loaf (baguette) or the Portuguese equivalent called cacete, 4-5 eggs, 60 g white sugar, about 1/2 liter water, ground cinnamon, lemon juice, 2 spoonfuls honey, 3 spoonfuls port wine, vegetable oil for frying, icing sugar

Ingredients: 100 g butter, 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, 1/4 teaspoon salt, 1 cup water, 2 lemon rinds, 240 g sifted all-purpose flour, 4 large eggs, vegetable oil ( for deep frying) cinnamon, sugar (1/2 cup granulated sugar mixed with 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon)

Preparation: Cut the bread into slices ( about 1 cm thick). Buy it the day before so that it is not too soft. Boil the water with sugar, lemon juice, honey and port wine to create a dipping broth. Cool and set aside some of this mixture in a soup bowl. Beat 3 eggs well and pour them into a separate soup bowl. Heat the cooking oil in a frying pan. Dip the bread slices, one by one, first into the spiced water, then into the egg mixture. Now and then it will be necessary to add more water and/or eggs. Fry the rabanadas in hot oil until they get slightly golden brown on both sides.

Drain on absorbent paper and put them on a serving plate, in layers, sprinkling them with icing sugar, cinnamon, lemon juice and port wine. Serve warm or cold.

Preparation: Bring the butter, sugar, salt, water and lemon rinds to a boil in a small saucepan on high heat. Remove from heat once boiling.

Remove the lemon rinds and add all the flour. Beat vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture forms a ball. Cool the mixture until it’s luke warm, add the eggs, one at a time. Stir vigorously until each egg is absorbed into the dough. The dough is ready when a knife can cut smoothly through the dough. If it’s a bit thick, then beat a fifth egg separately and add it cautiously to the dough, as it might not be necessary to add the whole egg.

Heat the vegetable oil in a shallow pan. Using two tablespoons, shape small portions of the dough into balls and drop them into the pan one by one. Fry gently until the sonhos become golden brown on all sides. Remove with a fork and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar mixture while still hot.

Serve warm.

King’s Cake

Bolo de Rei

Ingredients: 130 g butter, 130 g sugar, 500 g wheat flour, 15 g active yeast, 1 pinch salt, 3 eggs, 2 dl milk, 2 tablespoons port wine, candied fruit (cherries, pears, figs, orange peel) to taste, chopped almonds, walnuts, pine nuts and raisins, to taste.

Preparation: Add yeast to a little luke warm milk and stir to dissolve completely. In a large bowl, mix flour and salt. Make a well in center of flour and pour in the dissolved yeast mixture.

Gently fold in some of surrounding flour into the pool of yeast to form soft paste in the center. In a separate bowl, beat butter and sugar until smooth and fluffy. Add eggs, one at a time, and beat well after each addition. Incorporate butter mixture into the flour mixture, add remaining milk and port wine, and continue bringing in the sides to form a soft dough. Lightly dust the dough with flour and turn out onto a floured surface.

Knead until soft, smooth and elastic. Add some chopped candied fruit and the dried fruits and knead to distribute evenly. Put the dough in a clean bowl and cover with dish towel. Let rise for a few hours until it doubles in size. Once the dough has risen, knead and let rest for 10-15 minutes. Shape dough into a ring shape and place on a buttered baking sheet. Insert an ovenproof ramekin or cookie cutter in center to keep the hole while baking. Cover with a dish towel and set aside until doubled in size, about one hour.

Brush the dough with an egg wash (egg yolk mixed with a little water) and decorate with strips of candied fruit and crushed sugar or confectioner’s sugar. Bake at 180ºC for about 45 minutes, until golden.

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Va m o s

A p r e n d e r Portuguese -­‐ Lesson 2 A1 – elementary user – basic language knowledge Do you want to learn to speak Portuguese but haven’t really started yet? Have you had 10-­‐20 hours of language training/ lessons and you want to test your Portuguese? Have you had 50 or more hours of Portuguese, but you still feel insecure about having a basic dialogue with a Portuguese native speaker? Mainly if you just want to practice and build up your self-­‐confidence, then, this page is for you.

Please e-­‐mail for correct answers or any questions: delfina.v.t@gmail.com

Portuguese A1 – elementary user Test and practice your Portuguese.

ONE WORD ANSWERS. Note that in Portuguese, you do not need to use the subject pronoun when the subject is clear. For example: when addressing someone who is in front of you. The subject pronoun is not used in one-­‐word answers, unless you want to be emphatic.

Example: ( você, o senhor) Está cansado? Estou.

Diga que sim, se faz favor!

Diga / escreva no plural

1. Está ocupado?

9. Não sabe?! .................................... .....................................

2. Quer ir a Lisboa?

10. Posso começar? ................................... ....................................

3. Ela está em casa?

11. Ele gosta de viver aqui? ................................... ...................................

4. Você faz anos hoje?

12. Há dinheiro? .................................. ....................................

5. És americana?

13. Não come carne? ................................... ......................................

6. Queres ir ao cinema?

14. Pode ficar aqui? .................................... .....................................

7. Fala português?

15. Percebe? .................................... .....................................

8. O carro é seu?

16. Está a ver? .................................... .....................................

1. É um dia normal. ....................................

2. Um milhão de euros. .........................................

3. O jornal diário. ..........................................

4. Qual é a solução? ..........................................

5. Hoje há uma reunião. ..........................................

6. O cidadão europeu. .........................................

7. O meu irmão. ........................................

8. O meu cão. .........................................

Complete: Que bom que .................... Natal! ..................... muito contente. Adoro esta época do ano. Gosto da música, ..................... cores, da comida e de ..................... com a família e os amigos. Tenho dois filhos. Ainda ...................... pequenos, mas já andam na escola.

Nós ......................... cubanos. Nós ..................... aqui, porque o meu marido ..................... médico e agora .......................... a trabalhar aqui ......................... Portugal. Os meus pais também ............................ cá para passarem o Natal connosco. Eu ................... filha única, percebe? Vai ......................... ótimo! Bom Natal e Feliz e Próspero Ano Novo para todos.

Complete com: muito / com / agora /claro / ser / tem / bem / que / um / uma /dos Desculpe, mas ......................eu não posso falar ..................... o senhor; estou ...................... ocupada. Tenho ...................... problema complicado com um ......................... nossos clientes para resolver. E já sei .......................... não vai ........................ fácil arranjar ............................solução. Tenho que pensar .............................. ! É ......................... que o cliente .......................... que ficar contente. O cliente tem sempre razão!

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A p r e n d e r

Natal Branco

PORT C1 Dia de Natal

“Venha até lá casa no dia de Natal”, tinha-­‐me dito aquele compatriota. “Temos polvo guisado à portuguesa. E um arroz de amêijoas que o prepara Don Rufas. Vai ver que não se arrepende.”

Não faltei ao convite, e não me arrependi. Nunca perco o ensejo de ver como vive a nossa gente cá por estas bandas. Como vivem os de Nova Inglaterra já eu sei. Mas por aqui é diferente. A casa é ali no East Side, na Rua 29, entre os italianos, num terceiro andar. Em quase todas as janelas há coroas de azevinho e buxo, por vezes uma vela acesa, em mensagem de paz e alegria na rua. Ao entrar, deixamos lá fora um resto de neve encarvoada e a solidão que invade as ruas de todas as grandes cidades nestes dias de festa e de frio. Subimos. De todos os apartamentos vêm gritos, música, risadas, aromas culinários. Uma subtil nostalgia de exilado: desejo, nestes dias de memórias festivas estar por toda a parte onde fui deixando o coração em pedaços.

Português na bondade, no amor Quero que ele esteja aqui, todo presente, inteiro e caloroso, e ele, o coração, foge-­‐me… Foge para os que amo do outro lado do oceano—minha mãe, amigos meus, amores perdidos — ou para lá do Hudson, no lar de um amigo fiel. Não podendo ter tudo e todos, ser de tudo e de todos, prefiro não ter nada, ninguém, e ficar só. Entregamos as lembranças que trouxemos e sinto-­‐me logo aconchegado e quente, feliz. Pelas vidraças entrevejo árvores de Natal iluminadas. Don Rufas, destapa uma panela fumegante e revela-­‐me o polvo prometido, chegado há dias de Portugal no gelo. O estômago dos expatriados tem destas fidelidades. Tony é transmontano, de Chaves, pequeno, robusto de grandes olhos sonhadores; português até ao cerne no carácter, nos impulsos de génio (que em geral sabe conter), na bondade, no amor.

Robusto como o tronco de um castanheiro São pobres, cinco bocas a comer, quase sempre uma tia dela, e nunca faltam os amigos. Ele é lavador de janelas, window-­‐washer, mas conhece as leis e organizações, direitos e deveres. Lê os jornais, é membro de sociedades. É um português ”integrado”. Trabalha das oito às quatro, todos os dias menos ao domingo, e não falta, apesar disso, a uma reunião, a uma festa de solidariedade. Emigrou aos vinte e um e tem hoje trinta e seis. Ele, o seu compadre e eu, falamos da vida e do trabalho.— Este ladrão — disse o compadre, grosso e robusto como um tronco de castanheiro, e também window-­‐washer — já em pequeno não havia nada que lhe metesse medo!— Lavador de janelas, três filhos, um lar, asseio, amigos, decência e dignidade, a luta ... É uma alma capaz de mover montanhas.

Vai mais um copito?

O arroz de amêijoas de Don Rufas está de comer e chorar por mais; e o polvo guisado arranca-­‐nos brados de entusiasmo—, Homem, não me encha mais o copo! Para quê resistir? Isto fá-­‐lo feliz e a mim aquece-­‐me o coração. É nestes momentos de convívio que me sinto mais nosso, mais deles, mais orgulhoso dos simples, mais enternecido.

Reparo que ele e a mulher se entreolham com ternura. Estão contentes, fazem-­‐me feliz! O café começou a popotar no percolador e Tony divaga—nestas horas quem é que não gosta de lembrar o passado, contrastes?—Na minha terra nunca o bebi, café!

Nem o cheiro. O riso estala.—Vai mais um copito? Lá fora a neve que adorna e purifica o negrume dos slums da cidade, recomeça a cair... Os pequenos gritam de entusiasmo e correm para a rua. A neve! A neve! É o que se chama um Natal Branco! in Gente de Terceira Classe, José Rodrigues Miguéis (1901-1980), abridged

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Emergency Contacts National Emergency Services Medical Emergency: Ambulance National Police (PSP Polícia) Fire Service (Bombeiros) POLICE PSP (Polícia Segurança Pública) Lisbon Municipal Police: 217 825 200 Sintra Municipal Police:219 107 210 Lisbon Traffic Police: 213 922 300 Lisbon Central Police (Tourist support): 213 421 634 Cascais: 214 839 100 Estoril: 214 681 396 Parede: 214 575 978 Carcavelos: 214 570 228 São Domingos de Rana: 214 525 417 Sintra: 219 230 761 PSP Maritime Police: 214 864 500 GNR Guarda Nacional Repúblicana (National Guard) Alcabideche: 214 603 850 Trajouce/São Domingos de Rana: 214 453 619 FIRE SERVICES (BOMBEIROS) Alcabideche: 214 690 026 Carcavelos: 214 584 700 Cascais: 214 828 400 Estoril: 214 680 189 Parede. 214 574 585 Sintra: 219 236 200 Lisbon: 808 215 215 HOSPITALS Cascais Public Hospital: 214 653 000 Hospital Amadora/Sintra: 214 348 200 British Hospital: 213 943 100 Santa Maria Hospital: 217 805 000/217 805 111 São José Hospital: 218 841 000 CUF Hospital: 213 926 100 SAMS Hospital: 218 422 000 Curry Cabral: 217 924 200 Egas Moniz: 213 650 000 D.Estefânia: 213 126 600 Júlio de Matos: 217 917 000 Alfredo da Costa Maternity:213 184 000 Miguel Bombarda: 213 177 400 Pulido Valente: 217 548 000 Santo António dos Capuchos e Desterro: 213 136 300 São Francisco Xavier: 213 000 300 Red Cross Hospital: 217 714 000 Red Cross Ambulances: 219 421 111 Hospital da Luz: 217 104 400 PUBLIC HEALTH CENTERS Cascais: 214 824 600 Alcabideche: 214 691 838 Estoril : 214 659 580 São Domingos de Rana: 214 520 574 Tires: 214 450 543 Oeiras: 214 400 100

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Sintra: 219 106 680Health Cacém/Queluz: 214 309 208 Lumiar: 217 573 122/3/4 Sete Rios: 217 211 800 Alvalade: 217 939 192 Lapa : 213 931 250/07 Alcântara: 213 630 130 Benfica: 217 628 100/01

CITY COUNCILS CML - Câmara Municipal de Lisboa: 213 236 200 Kennel: 213 617 700 Câmara Municipal de Cascais: 214 815 000 EMAC: 800 203 186 Câmara Municipal de Sintra: 219 238 500 Câmara Municipal de Oeiras: 214 408 300

CRISIS and HELPLINES Saúde 24 / Health helpline: 808 24 24 24 Pharmacy Hotline: 800 202 134 Poison Control Helpline: 808 250 143 SOS Suicide helpline: 213 544 545/800 202 669 Drug Abuse Support: 1414 HIV/AIDS helpline: Linha SIDA: 800 266 666 HIV/AIDS helpline/ SOS-SIDA: 800 201 040 SOS Child helpline: 217 931 617 Child Abuse: 213 433 333 Women Abuse: 800 202 148 APAV (Apoio a Vitima) Domestic Abuse: 21 887 63 51/ 707 200 077

TOURIST OFFICES Lisbon Tourist Office: 210 312 700 Sintra Tourist Office: 219 231 157 Cascais Tourist Office: 214 868 204

UTILITIES: WATER EPAL – Empresa Portuguesa das Águas Livres (Lisbon) Emergencies (burst mains pipes): 800 201 600 Water Cuts: 800 222 425 Customer services: 213 221 111 Meter reading: 800 201 101 Águas de Cascais: 214 838 325 Emergencies:800 504 020 Water Cuts: 800 501 502 Meter Readings: 808 200 041 Águas de Oeiras: 214 400 600 Emergencies: 800 202 419 Customer Service: 808 504 505 Meter Readings: 800 212 212 Águas de Sintra: 219 119 000 Emergencies: 800 204 781 Customer Service: 800 202 107 Meter Readings: 800 505 555 ELECTRICITY Energias de Portugal (EDP) Emergencies (24 hours): 800 506 506 Customer services: 800 505 505 Meter Readings: 800 507 507 GAS Galp Energia (Lisboagás) Emergencies: 800 201 722 Customer services: 800 206 009 TELEPHONE Portugal Telecom (PT) Customer Services Residential: 16 200 Customer Services Business: 16 206

EMBASSIES AND CONSULATES Angolan Embassy : 217 967 0 41 Australian Embassy: 213 101 500 Austrian Embassy: 213 943 9 00 Belgian Embassy: 213 170 510 Brazilian Embassy: 217 248 510 Bulgarian Embassy: 213 976 364 British Embassy and Consulate: 213 924 000 Canadian Embassy: 213 164 600 Chinese Embassy: 213 928 436 Croatian Embassy: 213 021 033 Cypriot Embassy:213 194 180 Czech Embassy: 213 010 487 Danish Embassy: 213 512 960 Dutch Embassy: 213 914 900 Embassy of Finland: 213 933 040 Embassy of India: 213 041 090 Embassy of Pakistan: 213 009 070 Embassy of Thailand: 213 032 931 Embassy of the Republic of Indonesia: 213 932 070 Italian Embassy:213 515 320 United States Embassy: 217 702 122 /217 273 300 French Embassy: 213 939 292 Greek Embassy: 213 031 260 Hungarian Embassy: 213 645 928 Irish Embassy: 213 929 440 Israeli Embassy: 213 553 649 Japanese Embassy: 213 110 560 Korean Embassy: 217 937 200 Mozambican Embassy: 217 971 994 New Zealand Consulate: 213 705 787 / 968 120 500 Norwegian Embassy: 213 015 344 Polish Embassy: 213 041 410 Serbian Embassy: 213 015 311 Slovak Embassy: 213 583 300 South African Embassy: 213 535 713 / 964 151 989 Spanish Embassy: 213 472 381 Swedish Embassy: 213 942 260 Timorese Embassy:21 393 3730 Ukrainian Embassy: 213 530 046

‘The measure of any school is its students; the students of

St. Julian’s are superb and leave a positive impression on anyone who meets them. The students embody the vision and mission of the School, showing very clearly that the School has created an environment where children can flourish’. (from the accreditation report on St Julian’s by the Council of International Schools)

www.stjulians.com Quinta Nova, 2776-601 Carcavelos

Tel. 214585300

Email: pr@stjulians.com LusoInfo

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