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CELEBRATI N G PO RTUGAL A N D T H E P O R T U G U ES E

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A Portuguese Picnic

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douro litoral Oporto, capital of the north, is a uniquely diverse cosmopolitan center but in contrast boasts a strong historical past. This special ambiance can be felt all over the city: in the streets, architecture and monuments, in the parks and gardens, in the terraces and commercial areas. Situated at the mouth of the River Douro, the 'granite city' is best known for its outstanding scenery including bridges, narrow winding streets of the old quarter not to mention the celebrated Port wine. LusoInfo | 3


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A DVERTISE WITH US! Find out how to feature your business in the printed and online magazine at mail@lusoinfo.org. To download previous issues, subscribe or find out about advertising options visit www.lusoinfo.org or e-mail mail@lusoinfo.org. LusoInfo - The Inside Guide to Life in Portugal www.lusoInfo.org | 967 208 776 mail@lusonfo.org Editor: Sara Tamulonis Contributors: Delfina Teixeira Patricia Westheimer Dot Bekker Distribution: Monthly Distribution Areas: Lisbon, Cascais, Sintra Printed By Grafitala, Artes Gráficas,Lda

Welcome to LusoInfo! In Portugal, it's well known that the party season begins in June when the summer street party bonanza is unleashed! The Portuguese come alive and take to the streets to celebrate the popular saints of Sto. António, São João and São Pedro. These massive open air celebrations also initiate the long awaited arrival of summer that lasts untill the end of September into early October. In this issue, we celebrate the arrival of summer with articles about the festive season, highlighting the patron Saints' Anthony, Pedro and João. Read all about the Douro Litoral region, host to the biggest national street party celebrated on the mainland, the Festa de São João in Porto. If your looking for more authentic cultural experiences, check out "What's On When" for a list of the summer celebrations that take place all over Portugal or simply enjoy a calm afternoon indulging in a true Portuguese picnic. If you have any comments, questions or suggestions about this or any other issue e-mail mail@lusoinfo.org. We'd love to hear from you!

SaraTamulonis It’s Festa Time in Portugal! Come spring all the way through to the end of Autumn you'll find every city, town and village in Portugal celebrating their own local festa and the competition is stiff! Out will come the decorations, banners hung from balconies, strings of paper flowers along with the local folklore dancing groups and bands and everyone in the family takes part. Festas form part of the cultural backdrop of Portugal and the celebrations are centred around local saints and religious days, holidays and seasonal festivals and they do continue throughout the year but with greater emphasis during the Spring to Autumn. In the spring, festival season really starts with Carnival, which is the start of Lent in the Christian calendar and is a colourful spectacular and there is no child that is not dressed in their latest favourite fancy dress outfit. Further spring festivals are themed around blossoms and foods with Easter being the main spring festival. Summer festivals celebrate the ripening of fruits such as cherries. Harvest Festivals known as "Desfolhadas" are stiil celebrated in some areas where villagers traditionally gather on hot summer nights to peel the husks from the corn but also to get together for a good laugh. Winter festivals are littered with roasted chestnuts and include Halloween followed by All Saints Day at which time of the year families meet and clean, visit and decorate the graves of relatives. The cycle closes with Christmas followed by Epiphany at the beginning of January only for the entire cycle to start again a few months later. In Lisbon St. Anthony is the centre of its largest festival with weddings, street parties and sardines and in OPorto it is the celebration of São João with bonfires and 4 | LusoInfo


Bull, Suma, EMSA, NATO, Maersk, Somague, BMW, the British Embassy.

LusoInfo nº5 | May 201 2

We currently give company training in the following languages: English, Spanish, Italian, German, French and Portuguese for Foreigners. We also provide small group and individual personalised language courses for children and adults in all the languages SPEAKWELL is a language we teach, at SPEAKWELL school specialising in made-to-measure language in Parede or at your home courses for companies. We throughout the country. have a great deal of experience of working in Apart from a personalised the business world. Our we consider experienced team of native approach, innovation as another key or completely bilingual to our past and future teachers work in locations success. For instance, you throughout Portugal can now study the including Braga, Porto, language of your choice on Coimbra, Lisbon and the our ‘Moodle’ E-learning Algarve as well as in our platform! school in Parede. Our customer list is impressive, and includes companies such as: MSD, Pfizer, PricewaterhouseCooper, Unicer, Bacardi, Daymon, Jerónimo Martins, Barclays, Danone, Kraft, Nutricafés, Delta, Galp Energia, Gilead, Ing, Ericsson, Microsoft, Casino Estoril, Daikin, Proctire & Gamble, Red

pranks. However, don’t overlook the pleasure of participating in one of the smaller festivals where the textures of local Portuguese life are so much more colourful up close and the locals are thrilled to share their cultural traditions with the ‘estrangeiros’. Portugal’s strong Catholic heritage is the focal point for a number of festivals but when you look at these closely you will find that they have woven in many local pagan customs to further add charm to these festivals. To many foreigners the sight of whole families from the youngest children to the oldest great grandmother all dressed in traditional clothes, dancing and singing confirms the strength of the family in Portugal. It is this passing on of traditions, the open celebration of the cycles of life that have gone on for centuries and the sheer pleasure that these events bring that makes Portugal such a rich tapestry. All in all Festa time in Portugal is fun, interesting, traditionally rich and you should never overlook an opportunity to participate, especially if there is one in your village V another reason being that unless you do you’ll be kept up all night with the music and festivities. Viva a Festa! Dot Bekker

Portugal Friends Enjoying Good Company www.portugalfriends.com www.facebook.com/PortugalFriends LusoInfo | 5


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JUNE Amarante: 4th - 6th June. June Festivities, in honor of St. Gonçalo, with exciting and interesting events that attract large crowds. Religious ceremonies, popular dances, amusements, flower fighs and fireworks displays.

Braga: 23rd - 24th June. Festivities in honor of S. João include King David's Procession through the colorfully decorated streets.

Vila do Conde: 24th 25th June. Honoring town's patron saint, S. João Baptista, the Lacemakers' procession boasts typical Vila Nova de Gaia: 4th - 7th June. Pilgrimage of "Senhor da regional costumes. Pedra" (Our Lord of Stone) at Gulpilhares Parish . Hosts a Vila Nova de Famalicao: 25th June. "S. João Baptista" Festival number of open air parties with traditional dance. in Vilarinho de Camoras village. A renactment of the story of S.João according to St. Luke is performed on cart led Santarém: June 6th - 20th . The most important agricultural through the streets. fair in Portugal, with large numbers of exhibitors. Different agricultural specialty every day. Activities include bullfights, JULY Vila Franca de Xira: 3rd- 1 6th July. "Colete Encarnado" horseracing, motor races, Fado and guitar concerts . (Red Waistcoats) festivities are traditionally celebrated with a herdsmen procession. Bullfights, regional food, local Penafiel: 9th 1 0th June. "Corpus Christi" feasts, or Town folkdancing are the highlights of this age olde celebration . Festivals. 25th July - 8th August. St. Jaime's trade fair includes Lisbon: June 9 -25. International Fair, organized by Portuguese Setúbal: bullfights, fireworksand traditional folk groups. Industrial Association. Lisbon: June 1 3 - 29. Streets and houses are colorfully Figueiro dos Vinhos: 25th - 27th July. Important annual fair decorated in honor of the patron saints. Processions, honoring St. Pantaleão. fireworks, dancing, competitions are followed by the wedding celebrations of lucky couples who simultaneoulsy Pombal: 31 st July. Four day festival and fair of "Bodo". get married at the cathedral on June 1 3th. Tomar: (leap years) Tabuleiros Fair, lasting 4 days. Celebrations keep alive ancient ceremonies organized by Vila Real: 1 3th - 20th June. St. Anthony's Fair and Feast. Moncao: "Corpus Christi" Pilgrimage and District Festivities, the Holy Spirit Brotherhoo, order founded in 1 4th century by Queen Saint Isabel. The street procession consists of young including fight between St. George and the dragon. girls in white carrying trays, piled with threaded leaves, paper flowers, on their heads nearly as tall as the girls Porto: June 20th. Popular Saints' Festivals or "City Festivals". wheat, themselves. Onthe eve of S. João large crowds congregate to Porto's city center and riverside for a night full of celebrations, head hammering ad a magnificent display of fireworks. Guimarães: 3rd 4th July. St. Torcato Pilgrimage, 21 June - 02 September 201 2 FIARTL has been organized on a regular basis for over 40 Fafe: 9th - 1 1 th July. Festival and pilgrimage in honor of Our years. It is an excellent spot, for all those interested in Lady of Antime. Religious procession with open air mass, acquiring national and foreign handicrafts and who brightly illuminated streets, fireworks, bands, folklore shows, appreciate the work of the artisans, who offer a direct and candelit processions . opportunity to see how they produce their works. Maia: 1 0th - 1 2th July. District Festivals and pilgrimage of "Nossa Senhora do Bom Despacho", Sintra: 26th - 28th June. S. Pedro's annual festival hosts a craftsmen's fair, cattle show, dance exhibitions and music S. Tirso: 1 0th July (several weeks). Trade fair and pilgrimage of competitions. St. Benedict. Local pottery, puppet miniatures, statuettes, and other forms of ancient customs. Alcanena: 29th June. Great village festival honoring St. Peter. Visitors from all over Portugal attend.

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Terras do Bouro: 1 0th - 1 1 th July. Second annual pilgrimage of in the neighbouring municipalities of both Cascais and Estoril "S. Bento da Porta Aberta" (St. Benedict of the Open Door), in Lisboa Mágica - late July / early August, worldly magicians Rio Caldo village. arrive in Lisbon to perform and showcase their talents in front of captivated audiences. The Lisboa Mágica lasts around Cascais 1 3 July - 1 4 July Horse fans should not miss the one week and is always extremely popular. International Showjumping Competition in July. The Estoril International Showjumping Competition is part of the Global 29th June - 22nd July 201 2 Champions Tour, which includes ten heats. The event has The CoolJazzFest is sponsored by EDP and has for the last 8 been awarded the CSI/five-star classification, the highest years established itself as an important event. Performers distinction in the sport. include Sting, Orquestra Buena Vista Social Club, Pat Metheny Unity Band. Vila do Conde: 1 7th July. St. Benedict's Pilgrimage. Large crowds enjoy religious ceremonies, open air dancing, folk dancing, side shows and trade exhibitions . Valongo: 1 9th - 20th July St. Justa's Pilgrimage Mondim de Basto: 21 st - 23rd July. St. James's Pilgrimage to a hilltop chapel passing through untouched forests with magnificent views. Mirandela: 25th July - 5th August. Pilgrimage of "Nossa Senhora do Amparo", the best in all of Trás os Montes. Figueira da Foz: Town Festivities of S. João, consisting of sports competitions, bullfights, dances, processions. Semanas de Música do Estoril (Estoril Music Festival) - July and August, an acclaimed music festival attracting famous symphony orchestras and leading choirs from Portugal and beyond . BaixAnima Street Festival - July to September, the locals in Lisbon rarely need an excuse to party and always come out in force during these festivities, when live music, theatrical productions, street entertainment and costumed parades are just some of the many highlights . Festival de Sintra (Sintra Music Festival) throughout July, many musical events and concerts take place in the neighbouring town of Sintra, at venues such as the Town Palace and the Olga Cadaval Cultural Centre Jazz on a Summer's Day. Throughout July, jazz concerts are staged around the city and also

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National News LusoInfo nº6 | June - July 201 2

P ANOTHER $4.1 BILLION E UROS OF BAILOUT FUNDS FOR PORTUGAL

In a press conference held on June 4th, Vitor Gaspar, the Portuguese Finance Minister, announced that the 4th evaluation of Portugal’s compliance with the Economic and Financial Assistance Program, signed by the IMF, EC and ECB (troika) and the three main Portuguese parties, in May of 2011, had been positive. This allowed for the release of another €4.100 billion Euros out of the €78 billion-bailout package. Reportedly this amount will be used to pay for the interest (at 3%) charged on the borrowed €78 billion. The minister adverted that, upon receiving this amount, 75% of the total bailout money will have been used. He remains committed to fiscal consolidation but admitted there were risks of not reducing the deficit to 4,5% of the GDP in 2012 and down to 3% in 2013. The deterioration of economic activity is the number one concern. Unemployment has reached 15,5 % and will be as high as 16% in 2013. We have been in recession for eighteen months. Economists and the Portuguese at large are worried that the high dosage of the troika prescribed medicine, to be taken until September of 2013, may kill rather than cure the patient; also that so far the government has taken only the easy measures such as cutting of public servants’ salaries and raising taxes. The real issues have not been tackled, such as restructuring public companies, namely public transportation companies which have chronic deficits and galloping debt. Structural reforms are paramount to really change the Portuguese economy; so, the agreement made with the energy producers to reduce the high rents by one third is an encouraging sign. However, it falls short of the 50% established by the troika. Keeping energy costs down is a must if Portugal

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wants to gain competitive edge. The troika delegates were not pleased with the government’s failure to come up with strategies to spur economic growth. A cut in the TSU, which is a fee companies pay social security per worker, is in the memorandum of understanding, but Gaspar decided that this year there is no margin in the national budget for this reduction. But in 2013 he may just do that for a few, highly productive exporting companies. Vitor Gaspar added that TAP and Ana will be privatized until the end of the year, CP CARGO won’t be sold until 2013 and “public debt should reach a maximum of 118% of the GDP in 2013, and will steadily go down in the following years.“

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Passos Coelho, the Portuguese prime minister, applauded the Portuguese as he spoke at the Entrepreneurs’ & Managers’ Association 5th convention at the Catholic University, in Lisbon, on June 1st. Passos stated that he totally agreed with the troika that “speeding up structural reforms is the number one priority" and appealed to “the mobilization of the Portuguese to bring about real change.” He candidly admitted that the Troika was very “insistent” about the structural reforms issue. He added: “Today we can say with confidence that Portugal is getting closer to the path leading to economic growth and in order to get there, we can not delay or slow down the rhythm of ongoing reforms”. The Portuguese PM pointed out the “extraordinary sacrifices made by all Portuguese.” “It has been really extraordinary and a great honor to lead a government that has been able to count on a people as extraordinary as the one´s we have here in Portugal.” “Structural reforms must be guided by values such as trust, freedom, responsibility, solidarity, work, initiative, merit, an open-minded spirit.” “Business people and managers should lead in professional excellence, citizenship, new investments, training and exploring new

markets.” Passos is often criticized for his ideology-ridden policies. But “Life always bursts the boundaries of formulas.” Said Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, the author of “The Little Prince.” Privatization is troika’s and Passos’ prescribed formula for the ailing Portuguese economy, but a large segment of the Portuguese population feel that the “formula” should be adapted to Portugal’s specific realities. Passos’s government sold the 21% Portuguese State’s share at EDP to the Chinese 100% state-owned Three Gorges. So, now, instead of Portugal owning 21% of our energy producing company, a foreign country controls 21% of our energy. Even liberal minded Portuguese firmly believe that our life sustaining natural resources “burst the boundaries of formulas.” They should not be used as right-wing, left-wing or “middle-wing” by-the-book policies. But Passos does what Troika orders. There is a joke going around that Troika didn’t know we had quite an extension of the Atlantic. Otherwise the privatization of our part of the Atlantic Ocean would have been included in the memorandum! PUBLIC FUNDS TO PAY FOR LOCAL GOVERNMENTS’ DEBTS

The government set up a €1 billion credit line for highly indebted local governments under the Local Economy Support Program. To benefit from this line of credit aiming at paying short term debts, the councils will have to put in place an austerity program, which includes cuts in personnel, selling of assets to reduce the debt, cuts in goods, services and current expenses. All local taxes, namely property and sanitation taxes will have to be increased to the maximum allowed by law. The good news for the residents of the 50 councils is that they will have to borrow from the available credit, and of the other 200 that may have to use it, is that most councils (Câmaras) are already collecting the maximum IMI (property tax) allowed by law. MIGUEL RELVAS, NUMBER TWO IN PASSOS’ CABINET, LAST PLACE IN PORTUGUESE PUBLIC OPINION

Miguel Relvas is Parliamentary Affairs and deputy minister of the cabinet headed by Passos Coelho. He is number two in the PSD-CDSright wing coalition government and in charge of media affairs including the privatization of

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one of the RTP (public television) channels. And allegedly the least popular cabinet member at the moment. Relvas credibility has been tainted by suspicions of his involvement in super-spy Jorge Silva Carvalho’s reportedly wrongdoings. Jorge S. Carvalho is a former manager at SIED, the Portuguese secret services, and has been indicted on charges of using the secret services to gather information on Portuguese citizens and passing it on to his new boss, Vasconcelos, the CEO of Ongoing, a multimedia group. Relvas was called to the Parliament to explain his association with the super-spy. In the first audition, on May 15, the minister said that he had run into Jorge Carvalho at one or two social functions “always in public places” and the text messages he used to get from the fomer super-spy were just news clippings. And he gave an example: “George W. Bush visita México”. But Maria J. Oliveira, a journalist from Público, noticed that the President Bush clipping dated back to 2007 and the Minister had stated that he had met the superspy in 2010. The journalist e-mailed the minister for clarification, but instead allegedly got threats after threats: if she published any material about the minister’s “incongruences”, he would reveal details about her private life in the Internet and would have the whole cabinet black out the Público. The minister denies the Internet threat, but admits other threats and pressures and has apologized. On May 30, the weekly magazine VISÃO reveals that in the first Parliamentary audition, Relvas failed to mention at least two business meetings with the former super-spy. Would the famous statement by Abraham Lincoln (1809-1865, 16th American President) “No one has a good enough memory to make a good liar” apply here? The Media regulator, the ERCS, has listened to both sides but a final deliberation hasn’t been reached yet. Reputed TVI commentator and former PDS leader Marcelo R. de Sousa believes that should the alleged pressure/threats on the journalist be confirmed, the minister should resign and thus spare the prime-minister the embarrassment of having to dismiss him. Maria José Oliveira, the alleged victim, has resigned, after a twelve-year career as a journalist at Público. Adelino Cunha, Relvas’ political aide and former journalist, also resigned on the day news surfaced that the secret services criminal investigation had detected an exchange of phone calls between himself and the super-spy, when he was already working for the minister. Relvas has stated he’s not worried about the ERC’s deliberation. The five ERC (media regulator) members will vote guilty or not-guilty supposedly based on the report madein-the-house. Three of the five ERC members are also PSD members (Relvas’s and Passos’ political party) including ERC’s president, Carlos Magno, who was invited by Passos himself to take up the position. There is a big controversy about the fact that one of the five voters, Raquel Alexandre, also from the PSD is a personal friend of Relvas. She doesn’t see this as problem, nor arguably the other four, but many Portuguese do.

PORTUGUESE (IN) JUSTICE; HOW THE MAYOR OF ministry about a year ago and promised swift OEIRAS MANAGED TO STAY OUT OF JAIL and drastic reforms. The minister was required to pass a test that would make the Portuguese believe that justice is really blind: would Isaltino Morais, the mayor of Oeiras, serve the two-year jail sentence, which had been confirmed by the Supreme Court? Would the new minister have a new law approved that prevents a crime from expiring 15 years after it has been committed? Isaltino Morais’ bouts with the law go back to 2002. He had been the Mayor of Oeiras for many years when Durão Barroso, currently the President of the European Commission, appointed him Minister of Land Planning and Environment. In April of that year, he hands in his resignation due to a judicial investigation about hidden accounts he was suspected of keeping in Switzerland and Belgium. This didn’t stop Isaltino, now former PSD member, from running for Mayor of Oeiras as an independent candidate. In June of 2005, just before the campaign started, he was indicted on corruption, tax fraud, money laundering and abuse of power charges. August, 2009: Sintra Court finds the President of Oeiras Council guilty as charged of the crimes of tax fraud, abuse of power, corruption and money laundering and sentences him to seven years in jail, loss of mandate and to pay the Portuguese state € 463 000. Isaltino appealed to a higher court and got the jail term reduced to two years and the loss of mandate sentence was annulled. Isaltino’s defense team appealed to the Supreme Court. May, 2011: the Supreme Court confirms the two-year jail sentence but allows the case to move to the Constitutional Court. September, 2011: the mayor spends one day in jail. May, 2012: according to SOL, the crime (corruption) for which the mayor of Oeiras was convicted has “expired” (prescreveu), because it has been fifteen years since the alleged crime (favoring a contractor in exchange for a bribe) was perpetrated. Everyone in this country, including the government, agrees with outspoken economist Medina Carreira that no one is going to invest in Portugal unless they can be sure we have laws that are enforced and a legal system that works swiftly. The Portuguese are sick and tired of “justice for the rich and justice for the poor”. Quite a few Portuguese had high hopes for real reform when seemingly tough Paula Teixeira took over the

THE FUTURE KING AND QUEEN OF S PAIN IN P ORTUGAL

The heir to the Spanish throne, Filipe de Borbón y Grécia, and his wife, Letizia Ortiz Rocasolano, the prince and princess of Astúrias, were in Portugal from May 30 until June 1st for an official visit. The purpose of the invitation, made by the President of Portuguese Republic and his wife, Maria Cavaco Silva, was to strengthen political, economic, scientific and cultural ties between the two Iberian countries. The Spanish royals deposited a crown of flowers on the tomb of Luís de Camões in the Monastery of Jerónimos, had lunch with President Cavaco Silva and Maria Cavaco Silva, at Palácio de Belém, the official residence of the President of the Portuguese Republic. On the second day of the official visit, Filipe and Letizia traveled to Braga, north of Oporto and visited the Laboratório Ibérico Internacional de Nanotecnologia. They also met with Portuguese personalities at the Spanish Ambassador’s residence, paid a visit to the Palácio de São Bento (Parliament) and had dinner at the Palace of Queluz hosted by President Cavaco Silva and his wife. The prince spoke Portuguese in a few

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National News LusoInfo nº6 | June - July 201 2

occasions but he clearly is not as fluent as his father, King Dom Carlos, who lived with his family in exile, in Estoril, until he was seventeen years old. SOUNDS, SMELLS, IMAGES OF THE MIRACLE OF FÁTIMA

CONFESSIONS OF AN O CEAN SWIMMER PART 5

Two Friday evenings ago, I slipped on my dog’s pee and fell flat on my back on the hard kitchen floor. I lay there for five minutes praying for no broken bones. Then I turned on my side, slowly stood up and managed to walk to the sofa. My dog Ben greeted me somberly and even looked sad enough to say, “ I’m sorry.” He’s almost 1 7 and his bowels as well as his appetite are sliding. I felt no recrimination, just joy that I could walk, albeit haltingly. The next morning my friend Sergio took me to the CUF. I told the doctor what had happened. She examined me, told me I had a huge bruise on my right backside and gave me some pain pills for the next three days. "Can I still swim?” I asked. “ Sure” she said. “ Do anything that doesn’t hurt.” That afternoon I walked, slowly, to the beach and entered the water carefully. It was colder than usual. Once in the ocean I forgot about my fall and swam towards Estoril. I confess to feeling tight back muscles as I kicked. That was to be expected as the doctor told me it was muscles not bones that I had strained. I knew I had to find another remedy for my back. Then I remembered that seven years ago I lifted a suitcase too heavy for my 50 kilos and could barely walk for a week. My doctor recommended water aerobics classes. I went for a month, strengthened my back and moved to regular aerobics classes in the gym. I hadn’t yet discovered the joy of ocean swimming. Remembering my positive experience that year, I decided to return to the water classes. At my gym, the Health Club Visconte, a Bulgarian guy, Vasco (his name changed to sound more Portuguese) leads the over 50’s daily in demanding aerobic and strengthening movements. I have been going for two weeks and already my fall feels a distant memory. Every day in the pool, I try not to, but inevitably compare it to the ocean. The pool is confining, warm and chemically treated. The ocean is the opposite. Some days this week, now that I am better, I do the class in the morning and ocean swim in the late afternoon, that’s a shift for me too. As the beach and the ocean are getting more crowded I realize that I crave their solitude as well as the “chi” (Chinese for “good energy”). Fancy people sip their cocktails at the Hotel Albatross above the Praia de Conceiçao where I swim, and I enter the ocean below them. One man rubbernecked to watch and I gave him a big wave. He made a “ she’s crazy” sign and I smiled as I plunged into the early evening water. He went back to his drink and I swam freely up and down the shore, knowing that no drink could ever replace the joy I feel in the water. patwestheimer@gmail.com 1 0 | LusoInfo

In Fátima there is a new space that recreates the apparitions of the Virgin Mary to the three children-shepherds in 1917, using stateof-the-art multimedia with holograms, sounds and smells. The total cost of the project, called "O Milagre de Fátima", was €1 million; 75% came from the UE, said David Catarino, one of the investors and added that this amount “is spent mainly on new technology". "O Milagre de Fátima" wants to welcome about 300,000 people per year. Visitors will sense “the smells, the weather” the little shepherds sensed almost one hundred years ago. While watching images of World War 1, the visitor will smell gunpowder and hear World War 1 sounds. There is a steady flow of pilgrims to Fátima, from May 13, the date of the first apparition until October 13, the date of the last apparition, when the alleged miracle of the “dancing sun” took place and was captured in film. REDE E NERGIA - LOW COST FUEL A SUCCESS STORY

Two brothers have turned the so-called crisis into an opportunity. They closed down a restaurant business and in December of 2011 opened up a low cost gas station in the center of Lisbon, Campo Grande, Segunda Circular direction. They stated that this first lowcost gas station would have rippling effects in gas prices in the Lisbon area. In addition to Campo Grande, Rede Energia now has gas stations in Parede, close to Restaurante D. Pepe on Marginal, in Cartaxo, Barreiro and Crato. They are planning on opening two more low-cost gas stations in the capital and another two outside Lisbon until the end of this year. The average discount of 8 cents per liter compared to the regular market is the main reason why the Castelo brothers company made 10 million is sales last year and they estimate that this number will be reached in the third quarter of this year. Rede Energia is open twenty four hours a day.


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THE PORTUGUESE ARE CUTTING BACK ON COFFEE

which places Portugal almost at the bottom of the list of the 29 European countries that were assessed. Report Card 10 defines a child (aged 1 to 16) as 'deprived' if he or she lacks two or more of a list of 14 basic items, including three meals a day, books suitable for the child's age and knowledge level, money for school trips and events, an Internet connection, and a quiet, well lit place to do homework, among others. Romania has the worst record as a total of 72% children suffer from deprivation in comparison to less than 3% of all childen in Iceland, Sweden, Norway, Finland, Denmark and the Netherlands. The data is drawn from the 2009 round of the European Union Statistics on Income and Living Conditions (EU-SILC). In Portugal, child deprivation rates have gotten worse in the past year as salaries have been reduced, unemployment is close to 16%, all taxes rose, social allowances for children were cut and National Health Services costs doubled. Thus, the Ministry of Education launched a “free breakfast” pilot program for basic education (19th grade) children. Thousands of children in eighty schools all over the country are already benefitting from this program. Nuno Crato, Education Minister, stated that local companies are making contributions to the “free breakfast initiative.”

Having a cup of expresso at the nearest coffeeshop is a way of life for the Portuguese the austerity measures may be changing for good. VAT tax on coffee has gone up from 13% to 23% and as result the Portuguese are cutting back on this daily pleasure. In quite a few coffeshops and restaurants we have to pay as much as 80 and 90 cents. Supermarket sales have been coming down steadily since 2009, when coffee consumption decreased 9%. According to the Coffee Comercial and Industrial Association, since the beginning of this year, coffee sales fell between 5% and 10%, even though many businesses chose not to have VAT increase reflected on the client. Nielsen’s forecasts for Portugal for the rest of the year are not positive either; it’s estimated that coffee sales will be down 218,000 kilos to a total of 24 million. Coffee prices have been going up in the international markets, 9,84% in the last six months, which is a major headache for the sector. Coffee is the second most traded commodity in LINHA DO DOURO: CP RESUMES THE HISTORIC the world, right after oil. DOURO RAILWAY LINE

F REE BREAKFAST FOR SCHOOL CHILDREN

“The true measure of a nation’s standing is how well it attends to its children – their health and safety, their material security, their education and socialization, and their sense of being loved, valued, and included in the families and societies into which they are born.” According to the latest UNICEF’s Report Card 10, three in ten Portuguese chidren suffer from deprivation

Between June and October, tourists will be able to ride the train pulled by an old steam locomotive along the River Douro, a 46 km railroad stretch from Peso da Régua to the River Tua. The breathtaking views of the river Douro, the vineyards on the hills, classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, and the fresh air attract both Portuguese and foreign visitors to this Alto Douro region. CP has announced that next September the train will run also on Sunday

mornings. This year and for the first time, CP is also offering four different packages that include the historic train ride and a return ticket on the regular Alfa Pendular services (tourist class), Intercidades (on 2nd class) or InterRegional and Regional, from anywhere in the country to Régua. Prices vary between €50 for adults leaving from train stations north of Coimbra and €80 for those visitors coming from Algarve. Children under twelve pay only half a ticket. FAMILY MISFORTUNE

Ana Bivar, on May 30th, was allegedly murdered by her brother, 42 year old Guilherme Bívar. One million Euros of the family fortune gone in just one year to support Guilherme’s gambling addicition was the last straw for his mother and two older sisters to take legal action to prevent him from managing his deceased father’s estate. Apparently, upon receiving the court order, he went into a rage and that same day, about 9:30 pm he sat in his Volvo, parked near the Évora home of his younger sister, fortyfour year old Marta. As the two sisters were approaching Ana’s car, their brother ran them over and then got out of the car and stabbed to death fifty-one year old Ana Bívar who lay unconscious in the street. Marta, the younger sister, was saved by a neighbor who was threatened by the killer. The alleged murederer finally got back in his car and drove to Ribafria, in Alenquer where he lives and manages a horse breeding business with his wife. Ana Bívar was the mother of four minor children and married to PSD’ MP António Proa. She held a governmet position as a manager at the National Heritage Institute. The aristocratic Bívar family is one of the wealthiest landowners in Alentejo with their roots in Évora.


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international

community AFPOP - ASSOCIAÇÃO DE PROPRIETÁRIOS ESTRANGEIROS EM PORTUGAL

AMERICAN I NTERNATIONAL C LUB

The American International Club (AIC) (formerly the Friends of America Club) was founded in Specializes in providing a 1 996 in the city of Porto as a social comprehensive range of information services and support bridge between cultures. to foreign residents and visitors to https://sites.google.com/site/ameri Portugal. We can assist in keeping caninternationalclub/contacts you up-to-date with new and existing legislation, along with B RITISH C OUNCIL, P ORTUGAL social events for all of our The British Community Council, members. Lisbon, brings together English info@afpop.com speaking people from many http://www.afpop.com backgrounds to enjoy a wide 282 458 509 variety of social, sporting and cultural events and helps support AMERICAN CLUB OF LISBON many charitable organizations. It Primarily a business-oriented club, offers opportunities to make new whose main objective is to friends, discover new activities, enhance fellowship and explore Portugal and keep in understanding between the United touch with the English speaking States and Portugal. community. office@americancluboflisbon.com www.britishcouncil.org/portugal.html www.americancluboflisbon.com 21 3 21 4 500 21 3 529 308

AMERICANS IN P ORTUGAL

Americans in Portugal (AmP), founded in 1 998, aims to enhance the quality of life of expatriate Americans, their spouses, significant others living in the Lisbon area and to promote connections and serve the American, Portuguese and international communities. www.americansinportugal.org americansinportugal@gmail.com 21 4 862 266 / 91 9 863 927

Charity Bridge Association

http://bcclisbon.org/members/show/

THE B RITISH H ISTORICAL SOCIETY

The British Historical Society of Portugal has about 250 members and has as its object to recover, preserve and collate much of the history of the British in Portugal, and to promote interest in the History of Anglo-Portuguese relations. www.bhsportugal.org 21 4 583 903

B RITISH RETIREMENT H OME ASSOCIATION

Established in 1 980 to create and maintain residential accommodation for elderly people of British and other nationalities. The Quinta da Fonte home has English speaking staff and nurses. brhportugal@gmail.com 21 4 688 694

E NGLISH F REEMASONS

A society of men concerned with moral and spiritual values, seeking to reinforce thoughtfulness for others, kindness in the community, honesty in business, courtesy in society and fairness in all things. www.freemasonryinportugal.com 282 471 450

THE ENGLISH SPEAKING U NION OF PORTUGAL (ESU)

Bringing together and empowering people of different languages and cultures by building skills and confidence in communication. www.esu.org/portugal 21 3 905 428

I NTERNATIONAL LADIES OF C ALDAS DA RAINHA International Ladies of Caldas Da Rainha, a social, non-profit  club for women of all nationalities.  Established in 1 994, the club's focus is on enriching women's lives, whilst living in Portugal. Come along and join us at our Monday Coffee Club on the first and third Monday,  every month 3.00 - 4:30 pm. Meet new friends and catch up with your old ones! nt.ladiescaldas@hotmail.co.uk www.international -caldas.eu


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organizations | associations | charities TO INCLUDE A LISTING E - MAIL MAIL@ LUSOINFO . ORG

I NTERNATIONAL LESBIAN , G AY, B ISEXUAL AND TRANSGENDER ASSOCIATION PORTUGAL

An organization working to improve living conditions, integration and interaction of the gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender population within society. Helpline and counselling available. www.ilga-portugal.pt centro@ilga-portugal.pt 21 8 873 91 8 / 969 367 005

I NTERNATIONAL WOMEN IN PORTUGAL

IWP organizes a variety of events for women of all nationalities to meet and share interests. Regular coffee mornings and luncheons as well as excursions, fundraising and social events. www.iwponline.org office@iwponline.org 91 5 552 847

THE I RISH ASSOCIATION

The Association’s objective ‘to bring Irish cultural events to Portugal’ has been well and truly met. Events have featured all aspects of Irish culture from music and dance to literature and film, from thought-provoking lectures to fun and frivolity at our regular St. Patrick’s Day celebrations. irishassociation@gmail.com

LISBONNE ACCUEIL

Objectifs de l'association Lisbonne Accueil: Accueil des nouveaux arrivants. Ouvrir l'association au monde francophone (toutes nationalités). Renforcer les liens entre la communauté française et portugaise. Créer des liens avec le monde de l'entreprise.

THE LISBON CASUALS

The Lisbon Casuals is a friendly, relaxed sports & social club ideal for all the family. Members include a multicultural membership and

offer a wide range of international sports such as Football, American Football, Hockey, Touch-Rugby & Cricket, Badminton. www.lisboncasuals.com 21 4 576 684

PORTUGAL I BERLANT NATO G OLF SOCIETY (PINGS)

PINGS is based at Portugal Iberlant NATO Golf Society . PINGS is based at Quinta da Beloura with a membership of approximately 90 people both from within NATO an d the civilian LISBON H ASH H OUSE H ARRIERS community in the Lisbon area. (LH3) Matches are played twice monthly, Meet at 2:30pm on alternate a Medal at Beloura and one Away Saturdays, behind the Estoril Day at another course. Please Casino. A family Hash - both info@pings.com.pt should adults and accompanied children contact are welcome. If you enjoy walking, you have any questions. jogging or running then join the Hash. 91 9 666 202 / 21 4 671 396 R IDING FOR THE DISABLED The Associação Hípica Terapeutica de Cascais is a non THE LISBON PLAYERS association providing Amateur English-language theater profit therapeutic riding and sport group open to people of all adapted riding for people with a nationalities with an interest in of dysfunctions and drama and theater skills. Regular variety productions of plays and musicals. disabilities. New members welcome for acting 962 337 668 and production roles. www.lisbonplayers.com.pt THE ROYAL B RITISH CLUB 21 3 961 946 The Club is a private members’ club, with an international membership, serving the social PORTUGAL FRIENDS needs of its members within Portugal Friends has developed Portugal and abroad. from a need for people, mostly Events/lunches are held at foreigners or Portuguese people for members and their who speak English or have lived in restaurants guests and everyone is welcome. other countries, to share their further details please visit the common ideas and interests and For website enjoy good company. Most people Club's www.royalbritishclub.pt or contact who are not natively Portuguese Club Secretary at have come here to benefit from a the rbclx@mail.telepac.pt 91 3831 083. better quality of life, and weather and enjoy the unique Portuguese hospitality, culture and beautiful country. www.portugalfriends.info


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international

community CHURCH SERVICES

THE ROYAL B RITISH LEGION , PORTUGAL B RANCH

The Royal British Legion is the UK’s leading Armed Forces charity and one of its largest membership organisations. Members get together through the network of branches and clubs all over the country and overseas to participate in social, fundraising and welfare activities. www.britishlegion.org. uk/branches/portugal

C ASCAIS I NTERNATIONAL C HRISTIAN C HURCH

THE ROYAL SOCIETY OF ST. G EORGE

English worship every Sunday at 1 0:30. This international evangelical fellowship also organize midweek Bible studies, children’s church and has a nursery. Av de Sintra 1 1 54, Cascais 21 4 861 856

The Royal Society of St. George Lisbon Branch was founded in 1 962 to further English interests by spreading knowledge of English History, traditions and ideals. The Society celebrates English traditional holidays such as St. George’s Day and Trafalgar Day. www.royalsocietyofstgeorge.com 21 4 871 303

SCOTTISH COUNTRY DANCING

Scottish country dancing club for all levels of ability performing a variety of dances at each session. Meetings take place on Thursdays at 8:00 PM. 21 4 840 628 / 21 4 1 80 1 48 www.lisboncasuals.com

SILVER COAST FRIENDS

Silvercoast Friends was set up over two years ago by a number of young (or young-at-heart) dynamic and multitalented women who decided that they were definitely NOT in Portugal to retire! The ages of the women who get together for a two-hour coffee break twice a month are between 23 and 70. We are very happy to welcome young and old-just bring along your generosity of spirit, enthusiasm and energy. silvercoastfriends@yahoo.co.uk www.searchonsilvercoast.co.uk/friends

SOUTH AFRICANS IN PORTUGAL

Helping South African ex-pats reach out and connect. Creating contacts, meeting fellow South African ex-pats, obtaining advice from others who have walked in the same shoes or simply sharing experiences to help beat homesickness effectively. www.southafricansinportugal.com info@southafricansinportugal.com 91 0 838 1 1 5

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I RISH D OMINICANS IN P ORTUGAL

Igreja da Sra. Dos Navegantes Catholic services in English. Mass each Saturday at 1 8:00, Sunday and Holy Day at 1 2:00. Confessions before or after Mass by appointment. Rua dos Navegantes, 2750 Cascais. 21 4 673 771

I GREJA DO C ORPO S ANTO

S T. ANDREW’S C HURCH OF LISBON

The oldest Presbyterian church in mainland Portugal. Worship in English every Sunday at 1 1 :00. Sunday school and crèche facilities available. Rua da Arriaga 1 3, 1 200-608 www.standrewslisbon.com or find the church on Facebook 21 8 043 41 0 cofslx@netcabo.pt

S T. G EORGE’S C HURCH

Service in English every Sunday at 1 1 :30, Rua Sao Jorge, opposite the Jardim da Estrela. Enter through the British cemetery gate. 21 4 692 303

C ATHOLIC P ARISH

Mass every Sunday and Holyday at 1 0:1 5. Confessions before or after Mass. Rua do Murtal 368, 2765 Sao Pedro do Estoril 21 4 673 771

Catholic services in English, Mass each Sunday and Holy day at 1 1 :00, confessions: before Mass or by appointment. Largo S T. P AUL’S C HURCH Worship in English every Sunday do Corpo Santo, Lisbon at 9:30 am 21 4 673 771 Av. Bombeiros Voluntários 58, Estoril I NTERNATIONAL B APTIST C HURCH OF 21 4 692 303 

LISBON

English worship services at 1 1 :30, with Reverend Joseph Momoh, in the facilities of the Terceira Igreja Evangelica Baptista de Lisboa, Rua Filipe Folque 36, 1 050 Lisbon.

OCEAN C HRISTIAN C OMMUNITY

International church serving the Linha de Cascais area. Regular bible studies and Sunday worship at the Hotel Saboia, Rua Belmonte 1 , Estoril 21 9 282 01 9

THE DOOR Christian International Church

Meetings every Sunday at 1 0:30 and 1 9:00. Pastor Frank Escobar. Meetings take place at Cidade Desportiva, Praceta Carlos Capitulo, Massama-Queluz. 21 4 673 386 / 91 9 086 683

GRACE I NTERNATIONAL C OMMUNITY C HURCH in Cascais

An interdenominational, English speaking church that is welcoming and relevant; bible focused, fun and supportive. on Sundays at 1 0.30 at RIVERSIDE I NTERNATIONAL C HURCH Meeting CAISL (American School) in Interdenominational church meetings in English every Sunday Linhó, Cascais. www.lisbongrace.com or call at 1 1 :00. Creche, and children Emma Ruas and youth ministries provided. Meetings take place Rua Nunes 938 51 1 1 40 / 21 4 836 590 Santos, 21 S.Pedro do Estoril, 2765-546 Estoril (inside Centro Comercial Grande Galiza) www.riversideintchurch.com 21 4 836 590


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S U M M E R ACTI VI TE S F O R KI D S

MUSEU DAS CRIANÇAS CHILDREN’S MUSUEM 213 976 007 | 217 268 082 AAHA@ MUSEUCRIANCAS. COM.PT WWW. MUSEUDASCRIANCAS. EU MUSEU DO BRINQUEDO R UA DO VISCONDE DE M ONSARRATE, SINTRA 219 242 171 WWW. MUSEU - DO-BRINQUEDO.PT PAVILHÃO DO CONHECIMENTO (THE PAVILION OF KNOWLEDGE)PARQUE DAS NAÇÕES 214 815 323 WWW.FLORESTA. CIENCIAVIVA. COM O CEANARIUM LISBON €11; SENIORS €6; 4-12 S €5.50; UNDER-4S FREE APR-O CT DAILY 10AM-8PM; NOV-MAR DAILY 10AM-7 PM WWW. OCEANARIO.PT DORMINDO COM TUBARÕES / SLEEPING WITH SHARKS O CEANÁRIO DE LISBOA 218 917 002 WWW. OCEANARIO.PT LISBON ZOO 10AM-8PM 217 232 900

PEDAGOGICO @ ZOOLISBOA.PT

HORSE R IDING CASCAIS /SINTRA WWW. INSIDELISBON. COM 968 412 612 ZOOMARINE - ALGARVE LOCATED IN THE PROVINCE OF ALBUFEIRA, JUST ON THE OUTSKIRTS OF GUIA, ALBUFEIRA ALGARVE@ ZOOMARINE.PT 289 560 300 WWW. ZOOMARINE. COM

DINO EXPO CASTELO BRANCO 272 340 250 WWW. DINOEXPO. COM.PT PLAYBOWLING CASCAIS R Dª DÁCIA M D ESTANISLAU 35, ALDEIA JUZO, CASCAIS 214 870 795 / 917 344 437. WWW.PLAYBOWLING. NET

M ONSANTO ECOLOGICAL PARK, LISBON O PENING HOURS:TUE-SAT 9.30AM-5 PM; SUN 2 PM-5 PM 217 743 224 CML.PARQ. ECO@ MAIL. TELEPAC.PT

PAINTBALL WWW.PLAYBOWLING. NET GO-KARTING WWW.PLAYBOWLING. NET

BOTANICAL GARDEN WWW. JB.UL.PT 213 921 800 BADOCA SAFARI PARK HERDADE DA BADOCA, APARTADO 170 7501-909 VILA NOVA DE STº ANDRÉ 269 708 850  BADOCA@ BADOCA. COM WWW. BADOCA. COM DOLPHIN WATCHING EVERY DAY 9:30 AM AND 2:30 PM €30 FOR ADULTS; €20 FOR CHILDREN WWW. INSIDELISBON. COM SLIDE & SPLASH WATER SLIDE PARK E.N.125 VALE DE DEUS-ESTOMBAR

UNDER

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MUSIC LESSONS CONSERVATÓRIO DE MÚSICA DE CASCAIS AVENIDA DAS ACÁCIAS, 81. M ONTE ESTORIL. 214 643 460 LISBON SURFCAMP, SURF SCHOOL & SURFARIS WWW. NOMADSURFERS. COM ENGLISH@ NOMADSURFERS. COM

LAGOA 8401-901 INFO @ SLIDESPLASH. COM 282 340 800 WWW. SLIDESPLASH. COM AQUASHOW PARQUE SEMINO E.N 396 8125-303 QUARTEIRA 289 389 396 WWW. AQUASHOWPARK. COM

VASCO DA GAMA AQUARIUM R UA DIREITA DO DAFUNDO CRUZ QUEBRADA DAFUNDO 214 196 337

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PARQUE SUPERWIND CACILHAS DE OEIRAS, 2780 OEIRAS 214 694 602/3

CARCAVELOS SURF SCHOOL WINDSURFCAFÉ AV. MARGINAL - PRAIA DE CARCAVELOS 962 850 497 PEDROSOARES@ CARCAVELOSSURFSCHOOL. COM WWW. CARCAVELOSSURFSCHOOL. COM EXPLORA CAMINHOS - SEGWAY TOURS GUIA WITHIN CASCAIS 966 267 334 / 966 267 334 CASA DA GUIA WWW. EXPLORACAMINHOS.PT

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CELEBRATI N G PO R T U G A L AN D TH E P O R T U G U ES E B y D e l fi n a Te i xe i ra

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The Portuguese Picnic If you had asked me years ago what I thought about what to pack for a picnic, the answer would have been simple; a picnic basket filled with finger foods like cold meat sandwiches, potato salad, chips and orange or apple slices washed down with cold beer or soft drinks followed by a sugary cake of some sort. Today, “picnic” takes on a whole new meaning. After many years of living in Portugal, the ordinary picnic I had been accustomed to has been replaced by the traditional Portuguese picnic that not only fills one basket but occupies the entire trunk of your car! It’s well known that the Portuguese live to eat rather than eat to live! A picnic is regarded as a special occasion and is treated as such. Sandwiches??? Never! Tell tale signs that you are partaking in a true Portuguese picnic include mountains of Tupperware’s filled to the brim with food cooked at home in the early hours, usually “salgados”, fried savory treats that provide an excellent starter for the main dish. You’ll also find large pots wrapped in a worn dishcloths used to maintain the temperature of newly cooked rice or boiled potatoes that when unveiled give off an aromatic vapor mist. For the main dish, there is nothing better than to spark up the make shift barbecue made from scattered stones gathered and stacked in an imperfect circle covered by an improvised grill that once served as a radiator for a refrigerator! Once the barbecue is set up, it’s time to gather sticks and wood, a joyous activity for the cubs of the clan! It’s a delight to watch the younglings eagerly search for small sticks and pinecones while the Alpha males drag heavy lumber to the fire pit. The women chatter enthusiastically, laying the table while shouting at their husbands for allowing their children to light matches, an unspoken initiation to barbecue mastery! 22 | LusoInfo


at e; at e d a n o c k at al r! e e y nt ts e at

p s y a o of y a n at s,

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Depending on the time of year, the main course varies. In summer, the sardine craze is at its´ peak. After the long winter months of sardine famine, the craving for this oily fish is inevitable. The grilled sardine is a Portuguese trademark and is considered sacrilege if not consumed all summer long! As an accompaniment, the grilled green and red pepper salad is mandatory, just like the slice of rustic bread that the salted sardine lays upon, absorbing its natural juices. Chouriço assado also has its place on the table and is typically used as an amusebouche before the main attraction. Of course any Portuguese table is incomplete without the presence of wine, lots of wineVwhether red, white, green or rosé, there is not a dry mouth nearby! For most families, vinho caseiro, home made wine bought from small producers, is the beverage of choice and is often disguised in soda bottles, which are not to be confused with the kiddies’ drinks, usually orange flavored Sumol. The Portuguese picnic is an all day event and a grilled sardine lunch is not all that filling! Within a few hours or so, the burned out embers are relit for yet another appetizing meal of sizzling pork belly strips, ribs or barbecued chicken, Portuguese style! For dessert and as a method of better digestion, the nearest café provides Olá ice creams and consoling cafézinhos that provide a perfect ending to a satisfying family fun filled occurrence, even when wine induced familial disputes dampen the day! The Portuguese picnic is a wholesome laid back experience that allows you to put aside daily concerns. They happen just as fast as they end so enjoy the little things! Small moments make big memories!

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douro Oporto, capital of the north, is a uniquely diverse cosmopolitan center but in contrast boasts a strong historical past. This special ambiance can be felt all over the city: in the streets, architecture and monuments, in the parks and gardens, in the terraces and commercial areas. Situated at the mouth of the River Douro, the 'granite city' is best known for its outstanding scenery including bridges, narrow winding streets of the old quarter not to mention the celebrated Port wine. In December 1996, the ancient Ribeira riverside district was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The ongoing restoration of this dynamic quarter is attracting a growing number of restaurants, bars and nightclubs and transforming into an urban playground. Several significant attractions include the 12th century Sé Cathedral and the stunning São Francisco Church lavished with a gold covered interior. The two-tiered Dom Luís Bridge leads to Vila Nova da Gaia, home of Port wine where familiar household names like Taylor's, Grahams, Cockburn’s and Sandeman are fondly produced. The fishing towns of Matosinhos and Leça da Palmeira to the north of Oporto boast some of the best fish and seafood restaurants in Portugal. To the south Espinho promises relaxed beach side resorts, buzzing nightlife and a first class casino. The Portuenses have a strong identity and are proud to be recognized as hard working, creative, warmhearted but conservative people. Despite the reserved

VILA N OVA DE G AIA

There are over fifty wine companies based in the narrow, twisting streets of Vila Nova da Gaia. It’s here that the ageing and blending of most of the world's resource of Port wine takes place. New wine is delivered from the Douro valley to century old wine cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia to age for several years. One of the best organized lodges is Sandeman, founded in 1 790 and housed in a former 1 6th century convent with a small museum. Taylor's is one of the last privately owned English wine companies, which offers lively tours and extraordinary views from the spacious outdoor terrace .

AMARANTE

The patron saint of Amarante, St. Gonçalo, was known for his crusade of love and marriage. It is said that by visiting his sarcophagus at the small golden chapel in the São Gonçalo monastery, marriage is promised within a year. On the first Saturday and Sunday in June, the annual Festa de São Gonçalo pays homage to the patron saint in one of the most colorful fairs in Portugal. Traditionally, unmarried people exchange phallus-shaped cakes as tokens of their love. 24| LusoInfo


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litoral mentality, ironically it is a free thinker’s wonderland. Oporto continues to thrive with a very avant garde attitude by creating innovative projects in music, fashion and architecture. Portugal’s second largest city, Oporto, has an eclectic mix of the old and the new making it a wondrous and intriguing place to discover. The name Oporto is said to have originated on the north bank of the Douro River sometime during the 4th century BC. In 1394, Prince Henry the Navigator was born here, son of Queen Philippa of Lancaster and King Joao I who many years before married in Porto, resulting in a successful political alliance between Portugal and England. The beginnings of the production of Port wine in the Douro River region can also be identified during the 13th century. Oporto was growing on the economic map of Portugal. Between the 15th and 16th century, during the discoveries, Oporto became a contender for economic power. With Prince Henry the Navigator leading the way, Portugal was establishing itself in seafaring and trade in the east. For this reason, Oporto became one of the largest shipyards in the country and in the early 18th century, Douro wine region was established as the center of the Port wine trade.

E SPINHO

Espinho is located 20 kilometers south of Oporto and is one of the oldest seaside resorts and has developed into a modern holiday resort boasting long sandy beaches attracting holidaymakers especially during the summer season. Its clear waters and golden sand earned it the title of “queen of Costa Verde (green coast)”. Opened in 1 890, the Oporto Golf Club is a par-71 course of 5,668 meters in length and is one of the oldest golf courses in the world. It is renowned for its refreshing Atlantic winds and impressive ocean views and is located just 3 kilometers from Espinho.

F ELGUEIRAS

Situated at the foothill of Monte de Santa Quitéria at the heart of Vale do Sousa, Felgueiras is a modern city where the footwear industry is the main economic activity and makes up about half of all Portuguese shoe exports. Other traditional crafts like embroideries from the Lixa region and the Felgueiras laceworks are a large part of this town’s heritage too. LusoInfo | 25


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G ONDOMAR is famous for its goldsmith's work that has been practiced here for

several centuries and it is believed to date back to the Celts and Visigoths. The origin is directly related to the gold mines that were dotted across the region. Filigree is a special technique used to transform thin threads of gold and silver into ornately intricate jewelry usually earrings or bracelets. The delicate and complex designs are thought to have been influenced by the Moors. Today the original handmade pieces are an essential part of the lavish regional costumes of the “minhotas”, the girls of the Minho province. LEÇA DA P ALMEIRA beach has excellent conditions for water sports such as surfing, bodyboarding and kite surfing especially towards the north where the beach merges with Aterro Beach. For calmer waters, there is a saltwater swimming pool designed by prominent Portuguese architect Siza Vieira. This area attracts a lot of young people because of the variety of entertainment that goes into the early morning hours. M AIA is one of the most industrialized cities in Portugal with over 1 00 thousand inhabitants. This year the World Press Exhibition joins 1 60 winning photographs from 1 24 countries. Photographs by the candidates are on exhibition at the Forum da Maia until the end of 201 2. M ARCO DE C ANAVEZES is bordered by the rivers, Douro and Tâmega and is positioned in an area of fertile lands that produce green wine, olive oil and quality fruit. It is the homeland to late actress and singer Carmen Miranda. A museum was built in her honor displaying paintings, sculptures and ceramics. M ATOSINHOS In the 1 8th-century church of Bom Jesus (also known as the Igreja do Senhor de Matosinhos) there is an ancient wooden statue of Christ on the cross. It is rumored that in the 1 0th century, it washed up on the beach with a missing arm. Legend says that fifty years after its discovery, an old woman looking for firewood discovered the wooden arm and took it to the shrine, where it miraculously reattached to the statue. P ÓVOA DE VARZIM is the home of the Beiriz rug that is acclaimed worldwide because of a unique characteristic. The intricate designs can be seen from the inside out. These carpets are made with pieces of woolen yarn manufactured in rustic wooden looms to create the knot stitch. The floral designs are a dominant theme. These carpets date back to the first quarter of the twentieth century when Hilda d' Almeida Brandão Rodrigues Miranda (1 842-1 949) introduced a new rug making technique. She established a workshop in the village of Beiriz and later a factory, where she began producing these unique tapestries. S ANTA M ARIA DA F EIRA derives its name from a long tradition of hosting large fairs and weekly markets in the Rossio town square. Dating back to medieval times, fairs fuelled a town’s development. Vestiges of this era can still be seen today as Sta. Maria da Feira is an important industrial center, mainly in terms of cork, metal, shoemaking, paper, ceramics, dairies and granite extraction industries. One of the most important convention and fair centers, Europarque, is also located in surrounding areas.

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BEST OF OPORTO PORTO WAS ELECTED THE BEST EUROPEAN DESTINATION 201 2 AND GRA BBED THE TITLE OF “BEST PLA CE TO TRA VEL IN EUROPE!” A CCORDING TO AN ONLINE POLL 20

SELECTED TOWNS COMPETED FOR THE PRESTIGIOUS TITLE OF BEST EUROPEAN DESTINATION 201 2. A FTER A THREE WEEKS OF ONLINE VOTING BY 21 2, 688 PA RTICIPA NTS.

WHAT

NOT TO MISS IN DOWNTOWN OPORTO

1. CAIS DE GAIA'S PORT WINE CELLARS A fantastic skyline and origin of one of the world's most popular wines. 2. SERRALVES MUSEUM A work of art in itself just like the collections it exhibits inside. 3. CASA DA MÚSICA An architectural masterpiece by world-renowned architect Rem Koolhaas. 4. SÃO FRANCISCO CHURCH Undoubtedly, one of Europe's most lavish church interiors. 5. CAIS DA RIBEIRA Atmospheric, urban, riverfront district perfect for a morning walk, afternoon stroll or evening out. 6. PALÁCIO DA BOLSA lively interior of the former Stock Exchange Palace. 7. DOM LUÍS BRIDGE Before the Eiffel Tower, there was this ironwork gem built by Teófilo Seyring 8. THE CATHEDRAL The 12th century fortress-like cathedral was where Prince Henry the Navigator was baptized. 9. CLÉRIGOS TOWER Iconic landmark overlooking the city. 10. SOARES DOS REIS MUSEUM A notable national art museum named after one of Portugal's top artists.

OTHER MUST-DO'S: Have a drink at "Café Majestic. Go inside the "Lello & Irmão" bookshop one of the top three most beautiful bookstores worldwide. Take a cruise or a tour down the Douro River. Admire the gigantic tile panels inside São Bento Station and on the façades of Carmo and Capela das Almas churches. Take a stroll by the sea in Foz. Check out the art galleries down Rua Miguel Bombarda. Browse through the colorful Bolhão Market. Shop at the lively Rua de Santa Catarina. Relax at the Crystal Palace Gardens. Watch the world go by in Avenida dos Aliados. Praia da Luz is one of the most popular beaches in Oporto. It is in the Foz area of Oporto, which is home to some of the best cafes and restaurants in Oporto. LusoInfo | 27


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Port Wine Best Value 1 . 2009 Terras Porto Touriga Nacional Port/ fortified red wine € 2.50 2. 2006 Terras Porto Touriga Nacional Port/ fortified red wine € 3.28

D O U RO THE RIVER AND THE R E G I O N

3. 2005 Quinta do Noval Porto Unfiltered Late Bottled Vintage Port Blend Port/ fortified red wine € 1 2.50 4. 1 995 Quinta do Vesuvio Porto Vintage Port Blend Port/ fortified red wine € 1 8.33 5. 2009 Pintas Porto Vintage Port Blend Port/ fortified red wine €1 9.90 6. 2003 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage Port Blend Port/ fortified red wine € 27.67 7. 2003 Niepoort Porto Secundum Port Blend Port/ fortified red wine € 25.00 8. 2007 Graham Porto Vintage Port Blend Port/ fortified red wine € 50.00 9. 2007 Terras Porto Touriga Nacional Port/ fortified red wine € 5.00 1 0. 2000 Quinta do Estanho Porto Port Blend Port/ fortified red wine € 1 2.51 2832| LusoInfo | LusoInfo

"DOIRO, the river and the region, are without

a doubt our most significant natural inheritance. No other river in our country flows on a harder bed, encounters tougher obstacles or struggles more on its journey” ... says Miguel Torga (1 907-1 995), Portugal’s renowned writer and poet, in his beautiful book Portugal. The Douro flows all the way to Oporto, Portugal’s northern capital, at the river mouth, from its source in the Urbión Mountain in Spain. For 1 1 2 km it makes a natural border between Spain and Portugal. This isolated region of narrow canyons is now the International Douro Natural Park. It is the second longest river in Portugal, the third in the Iberian Peninsula and the Douro basin spreads over almost a fifth of Portuguese territory. The word Douro most likely derives from the Latin word durius, duro in Portuguese, meaning tough or hard. It may also come from the Celtic root dubro, meaning water. Some believe it comes from de ouro, which means golden or of gold, as in ancient times tiny pieces of gold rolled down the hills into the river and glittered in the waters. In 61 BC, Julius Caesar literally struck gold when he was appointed governor of Lusitania, a Roman province at the time and today’s central Portugal and part of Spain. For two years he kept thousands of men working in the gold mines on the steep banks of the River Douro. As for tough and rough, before five dams were built in the fifties and early sixties to generate


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Port Wine Best Rated 1 994 Quinta do Noval Porto Vintage Nacional Port Blend Port/ fortified red wine € 833.33 2. 1 997 Quinta do Noval Porto Vintage Nacional Port Blend Port/ fortified red wine Quinta do Noval € 1 ,250.00 3. 1 963 Quinta do Noval Porto Vintage Nacional Port Blend Port/ fortified red wine € 3,991 .67 4. 1 994 Fonseca Porto Vintage Port Blend Port/ fortified red wine € 1 66.67

hydroelectric power, the Douro River was looked upon as an untameable beast, with its rapids, dangerous currents and big rocks. Today you can sit back in one of the many cruise ships that navigate safely up and down the Douro River and enjoy the stunning view of well cared for vineyards, planted on the harsh, rugged mountains as well as charming farmhouses. This has been wine country since the Romans planted the first vines over two thousand years ago and the Alto Douro (Northwest) region has been a World Heritage site since 2001 , for, according to UNESCO, “the long tradition of viticulture in Alto Douro has produced a cultural landscape of outstanding beauty that reflects its technological, social and and economic evolution.” But it was a special kind of fortified wine, known as Port, that brought international attention to the Douro region. It all started 300 years ago when on-going conflicts between England and France made it difficult for British merchants to import the much loved French wines. Port differs from other wines in that distilled grape spirits (aguardente) are added to the wine to stop fermentation. This way the wine retains a lot of the natural sugar of the grapes which makes it sweet and becomes fortified, i.e. the alcohol content goes up to 1 8% or 20%.

5. 1 994 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage Port Blend Port/ fortified red wine € 21 5.83 6. 1 992 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage Port Blend Port/ fortified red wine € 204.1 7 7. 1 955 Niepoort Porto Vintage Port Blend Port/ fortified red wine € 832.50 8. 1 966 Quinta do Noval Porto Vintage Nacional Port Blend Port/ fortified red wine € 1 ,250.00 9. 2007 Graham Porto Vintage Port Blend Port/ fortified red wine € 50.00 1 0. 1 997 Quinta do Noval Porto Vintage Port Blend Port/ fortified red wine LusoInfo | 33 | 29 LusoInfo


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B ACALHAU À G OMES DE SÁ G OMES DE SÁ WAS A 1 9TH MERCHANT FROM OPORTO. HE CREATED THIS COD RECIPE THAT HE WOULD PREPARE EVERY WEEK TO PLEASE HIS FRIENDS. THE RECIPE WAS PART OF A MANUSCRIPT BY G OMES DE SÁ , WHO PASSED IT TO HIS FRIEND J OÃO WITH THE COMICAL NOTE: “JOÃO, IF YOU CHANGE IT, YOU WILL SPOIL IT.” Ingredients: Serves: 4 50 ml olive oil 4 garlic cloves 1 medium onion, sliced in rings 2 medium red potatoes, cooked and diced 230g cod, boiled and shredded 1 hard-boiled egg, sliced Fresh parsley leaves, chopped (to taste) and olives

Directions: Cover the bottom of a frying pan with plenty of olive oil; add sliced onions and garlic; cook in medium heat and sauté until onions are golden. Add the codfish, stir well then add the diced potatoes. Sitr on low heat. Add more olive oil if needed. Garnish with the chopped egg, parsley and black olives. Serve immediately.

M ANY OPORTO CONVENTS CREATED THE VARIETY PASTRY RECIPES IN THE CITY’S GASTRONOMY. THE O PORTO PARISH ENCOMPASSES THE A MARANTE C ONVENT, KNOWN NOT ONLY FOR ITS ARCHITECTURE, BUT ALSO FOR ITS PAPOS DE ANJO, QUEIJINHOS DE SÃO G ONÇALO, LÉRIAS AND FOGUETES. THE A VÉ M ARIA CONVENT ONCE LOCATED IN THE HEART OF THE CITY, WHERE THE SÃO B ENTO R AILWAY STATION STANDS TODAY BOASTS THE TROUXAS DE OVOS WHICH ARE STILL HIGHLY ACCLAIMED . THE EGG YOLK AND PORT WINE PUDDING IS ANOTHER OF THE INNUMERABLE EGG PASTRIES THAT MAKE UP PORTUGAL'S GASTRONOMIC TRADITION. OF ALL THE PORTO PASTRY RECIPES, WAFERLIKE “PAPOS DE A NJO”IS THE MOST TRADITIONAL AND UNIQUE. 30 | LusoInfo


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FRANCESINHA THIS IS THE EVENING DISH IN OPORTO, THE CITY’S LATE NIGHT OR FAST FOOD CHOICE. A PORTUGUESE EMIGRANT IN FRANCE INTRODUCED THE RECIPE IN THE 1 960'S AS AN INNOVATIVE CROQUE- MONSIEUR. THE QUANTITY AND DIVERSITY OF THE INGREDIENTS, SEASONED WITH A HOT SEAFOOD SAUCE, MEET THE NEEDS OF THE O PORTO PEOPLE, WHO LIKE STRONG AND HEAVY FLAVORED FOODS. IT IS AN INVENTIVE, HOT, FILLING DISH FOR A YOUTHFUL OCCASION. Ingredients 2 slices of bread 4 slices of ham 1 steak (60g) 1 linguiça (thin chouriço sausage) 1 chouriço 1 5g butter 3 slices of cheese (Edam or Gouda)

For the Gravy 200 ml seafood stock 50 ml of beer 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp mustard 2 tbsp brandy 1 tbsp butter

Preparation: Toast the bread and brush with melted butter. Fry the steak, chouriço and linguiça. Slice the sausage and linguiça length wise in half. Place the ham, steak, linguiça and chouriço between the two pieces of bread and cover with the slices of cheese. Place in the oven until the cheese has melted. Bring to the boil all the ingredients for the gravy. Once blended pour over the melted cheese.

PAPOS DE A NJO

Ingredients: 500 g of sugar, 20 egg yolks, 1 0 ml Tawny Port wine ,lemon zest, wafer biscuits Boil the sugar with one cup of water and lemon zest fo four minutes. Beat the egg yolks separately, add the port wine and the carmelized sugar. Heat until cream thickens. Remove from heat and cool. Cut wafers into 6 cm circles. Brush the edges with egg white and place a teaspoon of the cooled mixture on the wafer. Place another wafer on top and press the edges together to enclose the cream. wash with egg white and coat with granulated sugar. Allow to dry and serve with a glass of old tawny port wine to enhance the flavor. LusoInfo | 31


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