Fashion from A to Z

COLLECTION Corolla, Ballet Russes, Russian Doll, Afterwords. These are the names of famous collections that once made their mark on the world of fashion or have become unforgettable for some other reason. A recent example is Plato’s Atlantis, the last and also truly fantastic collection from Alexander McQueen in 2010.

A fashion collection is an amalgamation of items of clothing that together create an image. A striking presentation can add to the drama. For their Russian Doll couture collection, Viktor & Rolf dressed a model as a layered matryoshka doll in eight dresses. It was a miracle that the poor model didn’t collapse under the weight of so much gown fabric. Spectacular shows like those of Viktor & Rolf and Hussein Chalayan, with dresses like tables, are now very last-decade.

Until the end of the sixties, it was the collection that shone in the spotlight. The shows were rather dull affairs. There was a lack of music and a female speaker announced every model (‘And Paulette is wearing …’). Season after season, the show opened with simple house frocks, followed by smart suits for wearing out and about. There were exuberant cocktail dresses to wear late afternoon and festive party dresses for the evening. And finally, the icing on the cake, the wedding dress.

Such a traditional show still exists here and there. I quite like them and compare them with a 24-piece tea set consisting of matching components that are all useful and inseparable.

But just as the shops selling traditional coffee sets and complete dinner services have disappeared, the fashion shows of today no longer include outfits for specific functions and times of day. They are more like our kitchen cupboards, containing a mishmash of glasses, plates and bowls – but there are precious top pieces too.

The Corolla line by Christian Dior in 1947 included all kinds of variations, but just one skirt fanned out so beautifully under a slim waist and broad shoulders that we deified it as the New Look. There can be only one teapot.